Chapter 4

Resources

INTRODUCTION

This chapter contains information that should be useful in running your system. The
information is arranged according to topic, and each section starts with background
material relevant to the tables and lists in that section.

FISH FOODS

Some fish are fussy eaters; most fish will eat a wide range of foods, while a few will try
just about anything. Garbage in, garbage out is as true for fish as for humans, but
determining exactly what is garbage for a fish is slightly more difficult than human
nutrition. Fish grow faster when there is a lot of protein in their diet, although they need
their carbohydrates and vitamins as well. A good food to start with (and an excellent
back-up food in any case) is any sort of cheap dog food or trout/catfish chow if you can
get it. Another good all around food for fish is seaweed or kelp meal. This is especially
good for baby fish and can be purchased at garden centers or feed mills.

Feeding ideas

1. Fertilization. If you are raising a herbivorous fish, or if the fish you are raisin cats
something that grows readily in your system then fertilizing the tank to promote algal
(and therefore zooplankton) growth. Compost is probably the best sort of fertilizer for a
small system. Use only a handful or two and then wait to see what happens.

2. Food scraps. There are a lot of wasted foods out there, and if you can get your hands
on a steady, local supply, you could end up feeding your fish for free. Tilapia will cat
vegetable peelings, as will carp. Many fish will take meat scraps, fishmeal, or leftovers
from the table. There are recipes available for homemade fish feeds from waste

materials - see the book Freshwater Aquaculture for a good introduction. Here are some
suggestions of food resources in the city.
Stale bread and bakery throwouts
Fish scraps - frozen and ground
Meat scraps - fresh or frozen and ground
Vegetable peelings
Old vegetables from markets
Restaurant wet wastes

These can be found at numerous commercial businesses, as well as public places like
schools and institutions. If your fish will cat it, you probably produce enough food
scraps 'in your house to feed a healthy population of tilapia. If you do not have a dog,
then a tank full of leftover-eating fish can be your substitute.

3. Collect invertebrates for food. Most fish love eating insects, especially live ones, and if you know where to look and are not too squeamish, there are lots of potential
insect sources in and around a city. The first one that comes to my mind is cockroaches
squish 'em and toss them to the sharks! Many of these can be trapped and (for the
intrepid) can even be cultured right in your own backyard. Here are some ideas.
Earthworms
Cockroaches
Crickets
Snails
Slugs
Flies
Moths
Beetles
Buried beetle and wasp larvae
Big, juicy caterpillars

4. Keep a worm bin. Red wigglers are a favorite food of tilapia and also help you
reduce your household wet wastes into nice, indoor compost. God's Gang, who have
several aquacultural ecosystems set up in Chicago, grows red wigglers both for sale and
to feed to their fish. Fish fed with earthworms on a regular basis grow healthy and
strong due to the high vitamin content of these little guys.
5. Grow some plants. Fish, especially herbivorous fish, will eat a lot of plant materials
that we do not even consider to be food, Of course, fish will eat just about all the fruits
and vegetables that we eat, so these are not listed here but are also good sources of food.
The following list shows some of the more exotic parts of the fish diet.
Water hyacinth - fish will not eat it unless you take it out of the tank, chop it up, and
then return it to the tank
Azolla
Duckweed
Carrot tops
Marigolds
Taro leaves
Purslane
Green tomatoes
Much has been written on feeding fish and the references in the bibliography should
give you some direction if you are interested in developing new ways of feeding them.
Fish will eat so many things that it is always worth trying something new The best way
to test a new food is to put a little bit in the tank and watch for awhile. Usually fish will
mouth the new food and then spit it out - it is their way of testing. If they do not eat it
right away, leave them alone for an hour or so and check again. The food will most
likely be gone by then if they are going to eat it at all. An exception is live foods. Fish
seem to know that a live insect or worm will stay fresh until they eat it (or until it dies),
so they often let it live in the tank for a few days before consuming it. This is especially
true with worms, who can live underwater if the water is well oxygenated. Just as they
think that they have escaped, the fish usually eats them!

FISH SPECIES FOR AQUACULTURAL ECOSYSTEMS

I am not an expert in raising many different types of fish, but there are so many experts
out there already that you can easily find information about the fish you might want to
raise. Table 7-1 lists several fish species, their temperature ranges, and whether or not
they are easy to raise. The last category was determined from a literature review

generally aquaculture authors agree about which species are easy and which are
temperamental. It is interesting to note that many widely farmed fish are actually quite
difficult to raise. The reason that they are widely farmed usually has nothing to do with
how easy or hard they are to raise, but rather how much money they can make for the
farmer, and that is why trout and channel catfish are so popular among North American
farmers. In countries where people raise fish for their own or local consumption, carp,
Chinese carp, and tilapia are much more widely raised.

Good places to go for advice about fish are extension agents, pet stores, fish dealers, and
the library. Anybody who sells you fingerlings must know a thing or two about how to
raise fish, so make sure that some advice is included in the purchase price. Take advice
with a lot of salt, however. I cannot remember how many people have told me that I was
raising fish the wrong way! Usually commercial fish farmers have little knowledge
about recirculating systems but they still know a lot about the particular species of fish
that they raise.

OTHER EDIBLE ANIMALS

There are several other species of animal, mostly invertebrate, that you might want to
try raising as you become proficient. Most of these are crustaceans, but if you like to eat
frogs, why not? All these species are freshwater types and would be suitable for
aquacultural ecosystems, providing you do a little background research on their natural
history-

Freshwater shrimp (Macrobrachium spp.)

Crayfish (Procambarus spp.)
Bullfrog (Rana catesbeiana)
Freshwater clams
Turtles
Yabbles (an Australian crayfish)
Giant snail (Achanita spp.)
Escargot (Helix spp.)
Freshwater crab (Halicarcinus spp.)

VEGETABLES

These are lists of vegetables (including herbs and annual fruits) that grow well under
certain conditions or are tolerant of aquatic conditions. Some of the uncommon ones
may be difficult to get a hold of in North America but are included here, as you should
be able to find them if you look hard enough. Also, some root vegetables have been
largely overlooked as they are difficult (or at least impractical) to grow in aquacultural
ecosystems.

Vegetables that float on the water surface

Water hyacinth
Water mimosa
Watercress
Vegetables that grow in underwater soil (emergent vegetables)
Water chestnut
Lotus
Taro (Colocasla esculentes)
Kangkong (Ipormea aquatica)

Watercress
Indian water chestnut
Arrowhead
Chinese arrowhead
Wild rice
Duck potato
Water celery
Manchurian wild rice
Vegetables that grow well in hydroponics
These are the basic ones. Almost all-common annual vegetables can be grown
hydroponically with the exception of some root vegetables such as potatoes. See a good
magazine like The Growing Edge or look in the bibliography for books about
hydroponics.
Basil eggplant
Mint kale
Arugula lettuce
Chives mustard greens
Coriander peas
Ginger peppers
Parsley radish
Beans rapini
Bok choy spinach
Broccoli sweet potato
Cabbage tomato
Chard zucchini
Chinese cabbage cucumber
Corn

AQUATIC PLANTS

There are many aquatic plants available both in a good garden center as well as in the
local pond. Increasing the diversity of aquatic plants in your system will also increase
the diversity of the microorganisms that use aquatic plants as habitat. Many of them can
be quite beautiful, especially if the conditions are right for them to flower. Also see the
vegetable section for plants in these categories.
Floating plants
Water hyacinth
Water lettuce
Duck-weed
Salvinia
Azolla
Indonesian water hyacinth bladderwort

Submerged plants
Hydrilla
Elodea

Plants that are rooted in underwater soil (emergent plants)

Cattail
Alligatorweed
Pickerel weed
Smartweed
Lotus
Water lily

Water buttercup
Watercress

TROUBLESHOOTING

If you maintain a healthy system and do riot overload it with organisms, you should not
encounter any serious problems. Every, system is different and therefore each system
will experience problems in a different way. What I have tried to do here is to set up a
problem-solving helper based on my experience of what some of the common problems
are. If you come to the end of this helper and the problem is not solved then it is up to
you - be resourceful!

To use this helper, simply look down the list of problems until you find one that sounds
like what you are experiencing. There are numbers for solutions listed below.
Sometimes a major problem (like Fish almost Dead) will refer you to a lesser problem
(such as Pump is Broken) as problems seem to set themselves up in a hierarchy. Check
each of these possible solutions in order to see I if they solve your problem. Good luck!

PROBLEMS

System problems
(P1) - Water is not circulating / no bubbles. (S1) (S2) (S3) (S4) (S5) (S6)
(P2) - Puddles on the floor around the system. (S7) (S15) (P4)
(P3) - Big puddle surrounding the system. (S8) (P9) (S15) (S17)
(P4) - Found a leak! (S9) (S15)
(P5) - Funny smell - rotten eggs. (S10)
(P6) - Funny smell - like manure. (S11)
(P7) - Funny smell - fishy smelling. (S12) (P11)
(P8) - Funny smell - ammonia! (S13) (S12)
(P9) - Cracks in the ceiling in room below system. (S14)

Fish problems

(P10) - ALL THE FISH ARE DEAD THIS MORNING! (P1) (P5) (P6) (P7) (P8) (S16)
(S17)
(P11) - One of the fish is dead, others appear fine. (S18)
(P12) - Fish gasping at surface. (P5) (P6) (P7) (P8) (S19)
(P13) - One fish is swimming funny, covered with lesions, or does not feed with the
rest. (S18)
(P14) - Fish attacking each other. (S22) (S23) (S24) (S16) (P5) (P6) (P7) (P8)
(P15)- Some fish seem to be missing. (S7) (S17) (S6) (S25)
(P16)- One fish grows really fast, smaller fish missing. (S26) (S25) (S6)
(P17) - Fish do not seem to grow (SI6) (S27)
(P18) - Fish never get very big, more and more appearing. (S27) (S24) (S16) (S28)
(P20)- Fish are not feeding. (S27) (P1)

Plant problems
(P21) - Plants appear unhealthy. (S30) (S31) (S32) (S33) (P26)
(P22) - Plants do not grow. (S31) (P21)
(P23) - Plants grow but are spindly. (S31) (P21)
(P24) - Plants grow well, but no flowers or fruits. (S30) (S31)
(P25) - Flowers appear, but no fruits. (S35) (S31)
(P26) - Insects, insects, everywhere! (S34)

SOLUTIONS

(S1) - Screens are clogged. These need regular maintenance for smooth operation. Scrub
with a brush to remove accumulated algae and debris. If possible, use a larger mesh
size.

(S2) - Air pump broken or not plugged in. Check for air from the outlet tube. If there is
none then you may have blown a gasket. Buy a replacement gasket (US $2-3) at a pet
store.

(S3) - Air tubing is clogged. Remove the air stone and try to blow through the tubing
with your mouth - you should be able to do this easily and feel air coming out the other
end.

(S4) - Air stone clogged. Air stones get clogged eventually with algae and other stuff
They can be cleaned somewhat by soaking 'in vinegar, but will never bubble as well as a
new one. Clean or replace.

(S5) - There is a clog in the plumbing. Visually inspect all plumbing, use a stick to
probe the depths. Sometimes, a fish gets caught in the plumbing and blocks it up. Snails
will sometimes congregate in plumbing to the extent where water flow is blocked.
Exclude both with some 1/4" mesh. (S6)

(S6) - There is a clog in the b1ofilter. If you make your biofilter too fine, or you do not
use a large enough uptake pipe, you may find that your system clogs. Also, your
biofilter may need a good cleaning. Set aside a few hours and take apart your b1ofiltcr
to find out what the problem is. (S25)

(S7) - Fish like to play. Sometimes newly introduced fish splash around while they
settle into their new environment. Sometimes they jump to their death. Put a net over
the fish tank to prevent jumpers.

(S8) - There is a big leak in your system and you had better find it soon. Rescue what
you can and try to determine if the leak is repairable. Usually a leak is found at a joint or
in the biofilter - check those first.

(S9) - If you can, drain the System to below the level of the leak, let it dry out, and then
repair with silicon. It is almost impossible to properly repair a leak while it is wet.
Alternate layers of plastic bags and duct tape may do the trick, temporarily.

(S10) - Toxic hydrogen sulfide is being released! Act fast; provide as much dissolved
oxygen as you can to the afflicted tank. Gently vacuum up any anaerobically
decomposing material from the bottom of the tank. (P1)

(S11) Methane is being produced. Eventually, this can cause problems, especially if
other people have to around your system. Gently vacuum up any anaerobically
decomposing material from the bottom of the tank. (P1)

(S12) - Food is rotting in the system. Locate and remove any obviously rotting pieces of
food. Avoid feeding too much.

(S13) - Ammonia is highly toxic, aerate immediately Prevent future problems by

encouraging nitrifying bacteria in a biofilter. (P1)

(S14) Call an engineer. Your system is too heavy for the building structure -move it to
the basement.

(S15) - Leaking water can cause rotting problems with wooden structures. Protect the
floor with plastic or move the system.
(S16) - Check the water temperature and compare it with recommended ranges for your
fish.
(S17) Fish tanks in semi-public places are prone to vandalism. Respond appropriately.
(S18) - Remove fish and inspect for signs of disease or attack. Suspicious spots, missing
scales, funny colored eyes, and other symptoms all could indicate a diseased fish. Alive
still - S (20). Dead - S (21).
(S19) - Dissolved oxygen is in short supply. Aerate immediately by whatever means
necessary. (P1)
(S20) - Keep fish isolated in a well-aerated tank. Feed only sparingly and only if fish
seems willing to eat. (S21)

(S21) - Increase aeration and keep a close eye on the rest of the fish. Consult a fish
disease handbook and do a biopsy if you feel up to it.
(S22) - The attacked fish may be ill. See (S18).
(S23) - The attacking fish may be ill. See (S 18).
(S24) - The fish may be breeding. Consult natural history information about that species
in order to confirm this.
(S25) - Sometimes fish escape into other parts of the system. If they have you will find
them eventually.
(S26) - Fish are eating each other. Either come to terms with this horrible fact of life, or
choose a less cannibalistic species. Increasing the availability of live food and reducing
population density will reduce cannibalism. You could also try removing all the big fish,
or removing all the small fish (called "grading").
(S27)- There may be a problem with the foods you are giving them. Try something
different for awhile to see if they improve.
(S28)- Fish may be overcrowded. Increase water circulation and biofiltration or reduce
fish density.
(S30)- There is a nutrient deficiency. Check a nutrient table to see if one of these
matches the symptoms. Nutrient tables can be found in good gardening books.
(S31)- There is not enough light. Move the plants to a place where they can get more
light, supplement the available light, or grow more shade-tolerant plants.
(S32)- The plants are diseased. Check a plant disease book. Remove and destroy
diseased plants.
(S33)- The roots are waterlogged and possible rotting. Evaluate your growing system
and consult the hydroponics literature.
(S34)- The plants may be infested with detrimental insects. Confirm with an insect
guidebook. Feed infested plants (insects included) to the fish. Look in a good organic
gardening book for ideas about controlling future infestations.

(S35) There are no pollinators. Open the window or, if it is too cold, investigate
artificial pollination techniques.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Books and Manuals

I have in my opinions on the following books, which I have found useful for
understanding and learning about aquaculture, hydroponics, and agriculture in general.
Usually, the most interesting materials are in magazines and journals, but there is a lot
of historical, reference, and background material in larger books. Older books tend to be
interesting and informative - often they contain ideas that were rejected for one or
another reason by the rather narrowly focused aquaculture/hydroponic industry. Much
early work on sustainable and organic methods in these fields was rejected outright or
modified by the industry to conform to sterile, chemical agriculture. Now, as sustainable
aquaculture and organic hydroponics arc coming into vogue, many of the best books are
out of print. A good public library can be a gold mine of useful information from the
past.

Chakroff, Marilyn. 1976. Fresh water fish pond culture and management. Volunteers in
Technical Assistance (VITA) publication #36E

- The Peace Corps classic. Chakroff wrote this manual from firsthand experiences while
serving in the Philippines with the Peace Corps. While there is little information about
tanks, the information about fish, their biology, and how to take care of them is accurate
and accessible. Most libraries seem to have a copy - worth the effort and expense to
photocopy this book if you can find it.

Mollison, Bill. 1997. Permaculture -A Designer's Manual Ten-speed Press.

Mollison, Bill. 1998. Introduction to Permaculture. Ten-speed Press.

- Bill is one of the most creative agricultural thinkers of this century. All of his works
'include sections on aquaculture and the underlying philosophy of permaculture is both
interesting and useful for anyone who likes to contemplate our place in the world. Full
of new ideas and practical advice.

McLarney, William. 1998. Fresh water aquaculture. Hartley & Marks, Port Roberts,
WA.

- The standard textbook on small-scale, freshwater aquaculture, McClarney was a

founding member of the New Alchemy Institute and worked with John Todd 'in his
early career. This book was out of print for a long time but the 1984 edition has now

been reprinted and it is available through special order. Lots of information and charts,
but a lot of the contact information is out of date and useless. He tries to promote using
North American species for aquaculture as opposed to introduced species like carp. I
would not recommend purchasing this book unless you want to raise N. American
species, want more technical information about aquaculture, or are interested in other
forms (such as ponds, lakes, cages, etc.)

Logsdon, G. 1978. Getting food from water. Rodale Press, Emmaus, PA

An excellent but out of print book. Seems that all the alternative agriculture
organizations were running interesting programs on aquaculture and aquaponics in the
seventies. Now Rodale publishes magazines like "Men's Health" and the New Alchemy
Institute is defunct. This book is an excellent alternative to McClarney's text. It Is
written in a more accessible style and seems to be more on the scale of home gardeners.
There's even an account of an old man who raises catfish in a bathtub. Out of print but a
valuable read if you can find it.

Todd, Nancy Jack and John Todd. 1994. From Eco-cities to Living machines: Principles
of ecological design. North Atlantic Books.
John Todd and his wife outline their philosophies and ideas about ecological
engineering and the role of ecology in design. Not a very handsome book, but it does
have some interesting ideas about aquaculture, cities, and the future of the planet.
Generally, while the ideas coming out if the New Alchemy Institute are pretty cool, the
books and other publications from the members of this group are sort of vague and
disappointing. If this group wants the world to change using its ideas, then they need to
write a detailed manual about building living machines. There are a lot of willing people
out there who are sort of puttering in the dark trying to do good things but apparently
missing key details.

DeKorne, James B. 1992. The hydroponic hot house: low-cost, high-yield greenhouse
gardening. Loompanics Unlimited.

DeKorne is the last of the paranoid survivalists, but has developed some very useful
systems for growing things hydroponically indoors. He is an inventor who has limited
resources - the results are accessible, cheap, and easy to build systems.

Resh, Howard Al. 1 990. Hydroponic home food gardens. Woodbridge Press.

Resh is the dean of commercial hydroponics in North America. Every good hydroponics
store will be stocked with his books, and libraries usually have a few copies. This book
is the most accessible of his works, and although the ideas are fairly narrow-minded and
conventional, at least it provides a solid survey of the hydroponic industry in general.

Douglas, James Sholto. 1985. Advanced guide to hydroponics (soilless culture).

Douglas, James Sholto. 1976. Hydroponics: the Bengal system.

- Douglas was one of the first writers about the 'new' science of hydroponics and he was
very keen on organic and sustainable methods of production. If you can find any of his
books, snap them up. Reading Douglas after reading Resh, you realize that Resh's entire
scope would fit into a specialist chapter or two of Douglas' global perspective. Look for
these books in the library.

Addey, William and Karen Loveland. 1998. Dynamic Aquaria. Academic Press.
A fantastic book about how aquariums and ecosystems work, written by two biologists.
Full of explanations about how different environmental factors can influence fish and
other organisms. Also has good ideas about how to stock an aquatic system with plants,
fish, and other organisms.

Magazines

Of all the magazines published currently, the Growing Edge is by far the most relevant
and useful. It often has article about aquaponics and organic methods, and is an
excellent source for latest hydroponic ideas. Practical Hydroponics and Greenhouses
from Australia is equivalent to the Growing Edge in quality and outlook, but can be
expensive because it is imported. The out of print Journal of the New Alchemist and the
New Alchemy Quarterly have good articles about living machines but are rather difficult
to find.
A good all-around gardening magazines is Organic Gardening. It is widely available
and contains useful information about vegetables, composting, and the occasional
water-gardening/hydroponic/aquaculture article. Older issues are better than recent
issues, as the current editor seems more concerned about growing ornamentals than
food.

Aquaculture Magazine the best source for industry news and format. Their articles are
well written and researched, although keep in mind that the bottom-line is the driving
force behind this magazine. Their annual Buyer's Guide is a must-have. It tells you
where to get everything you could possibly need for aquaculture, especially sources of
fingerlings.
All of these magazines have extremely useful back-issues. You can find these in a good
library system or you can often buy them at a discount form the publisher.
Aquaculture Magazine
P.O. Box 2329
Asheville, NC, 28802
USA
www.aquaculturemag.com
The Growing Edge Magazine
1-800-888-6785
www.growingedge.com
Organic Gardening
Rodale Press
Emmaus, PA, 18049
USA
www.organicgardening.com
Practical Hydroponics and Greenhouses
P.O. Box 225
Narrabeen, NSW
2101 Australia
www.hydroponics.net.au
Journal of the New Alchemists, New Alchemy Quarterly - Both are out of print. Try
contacting Ocean Arks International or your local public library to locate back issues.

Free Literature
Generally, your local extension agent will be able to provide you with information about
some aspects of your proposed project. Here is one agency that has been particularly
helpful.
Southern Regional Aquaculture Center
c/o Michael P. Masser
106A Swinger Hall
Auburn University, AL, 36849-5628
USA
(334) 844-9312
(334) 844-9208 (fax)
mmasser@acesg.auburn.edu

This center has put a lot of effort into promoting aquaculture. They have an excellent
range of free publications, many of which are highly useful for recirculating aquaculture
enthusiasts. They are one of the few places which promote crayfish, Chinese carps,
tilapia, and exotic shrimps in the USDA system. They are also excellent sources of
information about where to buy less common species. Ask for the following pamphlets
in particular.
SRAC282 Tank culture of Tilapia
SRAC451 Recirculating aquaculture tank production systems. An overview of critical
considerations.
SRAC 452 Recirculating aquaculture tank production systems. Management of
recirculating systems.
SRAC 453 Recirculating aquaculture tank production Systems. Component Options
SRAC 454 Recirculating aquaculture tank production systems. Integrating fish and
plant culture.
Herb, Frances Raising snails for food

WEB SITES

Web access is becoming more widely available, and even In the developing world
Internet is available at reasonable prices (approx. US$5 per hour) in Internet cafes.
There are tons of resources on the Internet but beware anybody can write Just about
anything in cyberspace and nobody checks their work. Be wise about advice and ideas
that you glean off the Internet - if It sounds too good to be true, it probably is.

The following sites have useful information and will lead you to other sites.
www.jeffcook.com/hbpond.htm1
Jeff's half -whiskey-barrel page, while not quite as funny as Eric's is also full of
information. He has a lot of different opinions from Eric, but the two end up with the
same thing in the end. Jeff 's links are extensive.
www.livingmachines.com
The Living Technologies company site. This site is John Todd's consulting site. There
are some interesting photos, information, and links, as well as examples of how Todd
has applied living machines to industrial problems.

ext.msstate.edu/anr/aquaculture
Access to Mississippi State University's excellent collection of aquaculture extension
information.
www.kloubec.com
- A major tilapia producer in Iowa, their site gives a good overview of this species.
ag.arizona.edu/azaqua/tilapia
- A large but disorganized site containing lots of information about tilapia.
www.itv.se/rainbow
- Swedish farmers who grow trout and vegetables in a recirculating system,
www.townsqr.com/snsaqua
- Home page of the Sperraneo family who are successful aquaponic farmers in Missouri.
www.cropking.com/store/AquaM/AquaSystem.htm

o A large-scale and high-tech aquaponic system made by a major

hydroponic equipment manufacturer.

keywords to search with for internet information

aquaponics
hydroponics and aquaculture
living and machines
aquaculture and recirculating
alternative and aquaculture

Chapter Two

A Simple Recirculation System

INTRODUCTION

This chapter describes how to build a simple, inexpensive and compact aquaculture
system. It fits Into a four foot by four foot space, runs off of one double-outlet air pump,
and is easy to maintain. This is an ideal system to learn about aquaculture without
spending a lot of money. The system described in this chapter has been built by ordinary
people living in Toronto, Chicago, Little Rock, and Milwaukee. They didn't know much
about aquaculture or even plumbing, but they shared a willigness to try something new
and were successful.

HOW THE SYSTEM WORKS

The following is a quick account of the processes that occur in this recirculating system.
Look for sources of additional information about how such systems work in the
Resources Chapter.
This system mimics natural cycles. The sun (or artificial light) shines into the plant tank,
causing aquatic plants and algae to grow These plants and algae flow into the fish tank
(or are cut and fed) where herbivorous fish cat them. After digestion, the fish excrete
ammonia (a sort of urine) and produce feces. These are partially broken down by snails
and other invertebrates in the bottom of the fish tank and then pumped 'into the b1ofilter
tank.

In the biofilter tank, specialized bacteria break down toxic ammonia into fairly
harmless nitrates, which can be taken up by plants. Other bacteria and micro-organisms
break down other waste products into forms that plants can use. Particles of waste are
trapped by rocks and shells where they are eaten by invertebrates or broken down by
other microorganisms. This tank acts like an aquatic compost pile, converting wastes
into fertilizer for the plants.

Finally, the fertilized water flows into the plant tank, where it is taken up and
converted into plant tissues. Submerged plants and algae add oxygen to the water when
the sun shines. Clean water, oxygen, and green plant food flow into the fish tank,
completing the cycle.

SITE

This system should be located in a warm sunny spot with a water source and drain
nearby. It should sit on a strong floor that is level, and should be protected from
vandalism and curious hands.
It is very important that the system is level. If not, the air-lift pumping system will not
work well. Most houses and buildings are built with level floors - test the floor with a
level or put a marble down and see if It rolls. If working on bare ground, try to tamp the
earth down with a board where the system will go. This will prevent compression and
uneven settling. A good idea is to put the system on top of a piece of plywood or a
pallet.

PARTS AND TOOLS NEEDED

Hardware

3 - 55 gallon plastic barrels. These should he food grade (i.e , no chemical residues)
and at least one should be semi-transparent.
1 - 10' long piece of 2" PVC pipe.

6 - 2" male adapters.

6 - 2" female adapters

.
3 - 2" tee (T) fittings.

3 - 2" L fittings.

1- aquarium air pump with double air outlet. Get a medium-sized one (e.g. the Elite 802
which produces 2500 cc/min. of air at 4.0 PSI)

2 - aquarium air stones.

1 - 10' long piece of aquarium air tubing (1/4" clear polyethylene).
several clean rags.
1 small can of PVC primer.
1 small can of PVC cement.
1 roll Teflon (plumbers) tape.
1 - tube of clear silicon sealant (bathroom or aquarium grade). Be sure that it is true
silicon sealant, as synthetic sealants can be toxic.
several small pieces of window screen, preferably plastic, to cover pipes and prevent
fish from escaping
2 - strong elastic bands.

40 gallons of crushed rock, brick, gravel, or other coarse rock-like material, washed to
remove dirt and pollution. The pieces should range In size from 1/2" to several inches in
diameter. Try to avoid pieces smaller than 1/2".
1 - 2' by 2' square piece of burlap or other strong, coarse cloth
10 gallons of oyster shells or dolomite, making sure that most of the pieces are larger
than 1/2".

Tools

saw - to remove tops from the barrels and cut pipe. A Skill Saw (or "Jigsaw")
is probably the best for removing the tops, but a hand saw works well for cutting pipe.

scrub brush or sponge for cleaning up barrels and pipe

sandpaper or a small file for removing burrs from cut edges
felt pen to mark the barrels and pipe for cuts
power drill for drilling through-hulls

1/4" drill bit for making holes in filter in Pipe

2 1/4" hole saw (large bore drill bit) to drill holes for through hulls

caulking gun

2 pipe wrenches or large pliers - for tightening through-hulls (optional)

scissors - to cut plastic screen and burlap
Biological Materials
buckets of water (with some bottom mud or sand) from local lakes, rivers or ponds
1 quart of fresh compost

1 quart of good garden soil

1 quart of soil from a forest
1 quart of soil from a meadow
20-30 snails from an aquarium store or local pond
floating plants such as water lettuce or water hyacinth
20 - 30 fish fingerlings (nile tiapla are recommended)

CONSTRUCTION PROCEDURE

Most of this system can be built in two days if you can get all the materials together.
Washing and leaching the barrels takes several days to do properly, so plan to do this
before the actual construction. It is a good idea to let the system stabilize for a few days
before adding any fish,
so arrange for the fingerlings to be delivered a week or so after you are finished
building. Be sure to read ALL the instructions CAREFULLY before starting to build so
that you know what has to be done next.

STEP 1. Rinsing the barrels.

You can obtain empty 200-litre food grade polyethylene barrels from food factories,
breweries, recycyling centers, and many other places. Big cities often have dealers who
buy and sell used barrels, or you could call your local recycyling organization. Rinse out
the three barrels with a garden hose. Even food-grade barrels could contain toxins, so
you should always handle them with care. Wear gloves, long sleeved shirts, long pants,
and safety glasses when rinsing. You can drain them by tipping them over (hard) or
using a sipihon (easier).

STEP 2. Leaching the barrels.

Leach the barrels. Barrels can be leached by filling them with water, letting them sit
overnight, and then draining them the next day. Do this several times, using hot water if
available. This will draw out any rest 'dues that have been absorbed by the plastic and
may be harmful to fish.

STEP 3. Cutting the lids out of the barrels.

Cut out the lids of the barrels, leaving the rim intact. The rim provides support for the
barrel, so it Is important not to cut it off There are several ways of cutting the lid out,
depending on what tools you have. You can drill a small hole and then use a skill saw, or
you can drill holes all the way around if you don't have a saw.

STEP 4. Washing the barrels.

Wash the barrels. Use soap, warm water, and a scrub brush or sponge. You should wear
rubber gloves to protect your hands as well as a long sleeved shirt. You could use a
mop, or take the barrel to a commercial car wash where you can use their pressure
washer. Rinse off the soap, re-fill with water, and let them leach overnight again.

STEP 5. Placing the barrels and marking the through-hulls.

Arrange the barrels into a triangle on the site you have chosen. Using the felt pen, mark
each barrel at the point where it is closest to the other two. Now measure six inches (6")
straight down from each point and draw a cross mark. This will be where you drill theholes for the connecting pipes.
Each barrel should have two crosses. Double check your measurements by measuring
from the cross mark to the floor. All the cross marks should be the same distance from
the floor.
Put the barrels back into the original triangle. Eyeball the crosses to make with sure they
line up. Water will not practice circulate well if the crosses are not at quite the, same
level.

STEP 6. Drilling the through-hulls.

Check the 2 1/4" large-bore drill bit against a male adapter. The bit should be slightly
narrower than the threads of the adapter. That way the adapter can be screwed into the
hole you drill, ensuring a snug fit. Straddle the barrel like youre riding a horse, or get
somebody else to. Carefully drill a hole, using the cross mark center. Remember to hold
the drill straight up and down and lower it slowly. Bracing the drill with your other hand
will help you cut an even, clean hole.
You can practice drilling holes through the lids you removed in STEP 3. Even if you are
handy a drill, it is still a good idea to drilling because plastic drills differently from
wood.

STEP 7. Connector pipe assembly.

Make the connector pipes by cutting three 3" long pieces of 2" pipe. Try to cut the pipe
as square as possible. Use a knife and some sandpaper to
smooth the cut edges. Dry fit (i.e. put together without using cement) a connector piece
of pipe between two male adapters. You should be able to see a little bit of the pipe in
between the adapters when it is pushed into them as far as possible. Make two more sets
from the remaining 3" long pieces of pipe and the male adapters.

STEP 8. Through-hull assembly.

Assemble the through-hull fitting as follows. First dry fit a male adapter through each
hole, from the outside of the barrel in. Then GENTLY screw a female adapter onto each
male adapter, but do not tighten at this point.
Put the other two connector pipes together by screwing them into the other two sets of
holes. GENTLY screw on some female adapters. At this point, all the barrels in your
system should be connected together 'in a triangle.

Now that all the pipe connectors and through-hulls have been put together, have a close
look at the barrels. The barrels should be close together and level, and the three
connectors should not be bent at funny angles or appear to be under stress. Check that
the system is as you want it before you start cementing it together in the next step

STEP 9. Cementing the connector pipes.

WARNING: Primer and cement are dangerous chemicals. You should always wear
rubber gloves and work in a well- ventilated area when using ' these chemicals. Be sure
to read the ALL safety instructions on the cans before opening them!
Disassemble one of the connector pipes by unscrewing the male and female adapters
and removing the connector pipe from between the two male adapters. You should have
two male adapters, two female adapters and a 3" long piece of 2" pipe. Using a rag,
wipe clean the inner surface of one of the male adapters and the outer surface of one end
of the 3" long piece of pipe. Apply primer to all these surfaces and allow to dry.
Working quickly, apply PVC cement to the inside of the male adapters and the
corresponding surface of the 3" long piece of pipe. Twist the pipe and the adapter
together, making sure that you have pushed the pipe in as far as it will go. Wait for a few
11-11inutes until this joint sets, then cement the other male adapter to the other end of
the connector pipe. Repeat this procedure for the other two sets of connector pipes and
male adapters. Allow the cement to dry for 20 minutes before moving on to the next
step.

STEP 10. Silicon sealing the through- hulls.

Silicon sealant can produce irritating fumes when used indoors. Be sure to ventilate
your workspace as much as possible. Also, you should try not to get it on your skin or
clothes, as it is very difficult to remove.
Take one of the connector pipe/male adapter sets that you made in STEP 9 and wrap
several layers of Teflon tape around the threads of one of the adapters. Be sure to wrap
the tape clockwise around the threads, otherwise it will bunch up. Generously cover the
tape and threads with silicon sealant and twist the adapter through the hole in the barrel.
Squirt a bit of silicon 'into the female adapter and begin to screw it onto the male
adapter from inside the barrel. As you tighten, it will become harder and harder to turn
the adapter and silicon will start to squeeze out from between the male and female
adapters. Put on some work gloves to protect your hands and tighten the joint as much
as you can. If you have a couple of pipe wrenches, then use them to make the joint as
tight as possible. Grab one adapter with each wrench and turn the two wrenches in
opposite directions. It is important that a generous amount of silicon gets squeezed out
between the adapters by the force of tightening, as this makes the joint waterproof.
Repeat this process for the other five male adapters to female adapter joints. By the end
of this step all three barrels will be joined together by waterproof connector pipes.
Let the silicon dry for 24 hours before moving on to the next step.

STEP 11. Assembling the up-pipes.

Cut a 20" long piece and two 3" long pieces of 2" pipe for the plant tank.
Cut another set (one 20" piece, two 3" pieces) for the fish tank. Use tee fittings to install
them into two of the barrels as shown the diagram. Because the fittings and pipe are
inside the tanks, they do not need to be held together with cement or silicon sealant.
Remember that the water has to enter a tank at the top, flow to the bottom, and then go
up an up-pipe to exit that tank and enter the next. Therefore, It is important that you
arrange the up-pipes correctly. When set up correctly, only one up-pipe should be
attached to each connector pipe assembly.

STEP 12. Assembling the filter pipe.

Cut two 3" long pieces of 2" pipe. Install these into the third, empty barrel. Now
carefully measure and cut an up-pipe of 2" pipe for the filter tank. It is important that
the intake lies flat on the bottom, so carefully measure the distance between the tee
fitting at the top and the el fitting at the bottom. Using three more el fittings, cut short
pieces of 2" Pipe to make the intake pipe as shown. You may need to trim these pipes to
make them fit.
Once you have figured out how the filter assembly will fit, disassemble it and perforate
the pipe by drilling " holes approximately 1" apart over the entire surface of the
intake. This will allow water to enter the up-pipe without compromising the strength of
the pipe. Reassemble the perforated pipe and install into the filter tank.

STEP 13. Final positioning.

Before- you put anything heavy into the tanks (like water or rocks) you should make
sure that the tank is properly positioned. The plant tank should be in the sunniest spot.
The entire system should be level. If you don't have a level, you can use a bowl full of
water on a long straight board instead. If you are placing the system on gravel or on
loose soil, you should position the whole system on top of a 4'by 4' piece of plywood or
a large, sturdy pallet. This will prevent the system from settling unevenly

STEP 14. Filling the filter tank.

If you are building this system inside a budding, you should consider how heavy it will
be and whether the floor will support it. The floors of most modern buildings will easily
hold the weight of this system. If your building is old, and you are unsure about the
strength of your floor, you should consult a professional engineer. They will be able to
tell you if your floor can support a weight of 150 to 200 pounds per square foot.

Carefully fill the filter tank with the cleaned fill. "Cleaned fill" means things like
crushed brick, rock pieces, large gravel, or other rock-like materials that are free of
broken glass, metals, and other contaminants. Be sure to carefully rinse off any dust or
mud, as this will cloud the water.
Place the fill piece by piece into the filter tank. You should try to put larger pieces in the
bottom, adding medium and pieces as you get near the top.
When filling around the filter pipe, try to place the fill so that 'it doesn't rest directly on
the pipe.
When the filter tank is three-quarters full, lay the sheet of burlap or filter cloth over the
fill. The rest of the tank should be filled with calcium carbonate materials such as shells
or dolomite chips.

STEP 15. Rinsing and leaching the system.

Fill the system with water from a hose. If the fill is dirty, then it will cloud the water
with sediment. You may need to fill and drain the tanks several times in order to clear
the water. When the water appears fairly clean, fill the system and let it leach for 24
hours. Drain the tanks and fill them again.

STEP 16. Inoculation.

Inoculate the tanks with biological materials. Sprinkle the compost and soils onto the
top of the filter tank. Add the pond/stream/river water to in the other two tanks. Sprinkle
snails into all three tanks. Two or three tablespoons of rotten milk can be added to the
filter tank to encourage a healthy microbial community.
There are several places where aquatic plants can be added to your system. Emergent
plants, such as watercress, can be planted directly into the filter tank. Floating plants,
like water hyacinth, can be put on the top of e fish tank or the plant tank. If your plant
tank is fairly translucent, submerged plants can be planted on the bottom of the plant
tank, but try not to block the up-pipe intake.

STEP 17. Installing the airlift pump.

Attach an air stone to a five-foot long piece of air tubing. Lower the air stone into the
up-pipe of the fish tank, almost to the bottom of the pipe. Plug the other end of the air
tubing into the air pump and Plug it in. Push it down as far as it will go without causing
any bubbles to escape from the bottom of the pipe. You should see water moving as the
air water mixture rises in the pipe and is forced into the next barrel.

The airlift is all that is required to circulate water in this system. The system works best
when the water level half fills the connector pipes, so adjust the water level by adding or
removing some water.
The other air stone and tubing should be suspended 'in the fish tank. This provides
oxygen to the fish. You will have to weigh it down with a brick or rock. Remember to
place the air pump above the system in order to prevent it from being flooded.

STEP 18. Preparing the system for fish.

You should let the system run without fish for a few days, so the various microorganisms have time to stabilize. This also allows any chlorine that may be present in
the water to be released into the atmosphere.
Chlorine is found in tap water and is toxic to most fish, so you should let tap water sit
for 24 hours before using in any case.
Before introducing any fish, block off the entrance and exit of the fish tank with '/4"
mesh or smaller to prevent them from escaping into the filter or plant tank. The mesh
can be held on by elastic bands for easy cleaning.
If you are planning on keeping fish that require high temperatures (e.g. Tilapia), you
will have to install a submersible heater 'in the system or put the system in a hot place
such as a heated greenhouse. Because the system contains a lot of water, it will take a
day or two for the water to warm up to the desired temperature.

STEP 19. Adding the fish.

You have to introduce the fish slowly to prevent them from being too stressed. If the
fish came in a bag, open the top to allow oxygen to enter. Float the bag in the fish tank
for an hour or so to allow the water inside the bag to come to the same temperature as
the tank. You can hang the open bag from the tee fitting so that the fish don't swim out.

Once the temperature is the same, add a little bit of water from the fish tank into the
bag. Five minutes later, add a little bit more. Do this a few more times, then slowly tilt
the bag underwater so that the fish can swim out of the bag and into the tank.

STEP 20. The first few days.

It is a good idea to cover the tank after first introducing the fish because sometimes fish
will try to escape from a new tank. After a few days, the fish will become accustomed to
their new tank and a cover will no longer be necessary.
When fish are first moved, they may not be as hungry due to stress. Feed them only a
little bit at first, gradually increasing the amount of food as they become accustomed to
their new environment.
If all your fish die in the first few days, then something is wrong with your system, with
the fish, or something happened during transit. Call the person you got- your fish from
and try to figure out what the problem could be. Usually, you can get replacement fish at
a discount if you can convince the fish supplier that there was something wrong at their
end.

MAINTENANCE

Regular maintenance helps keep a system healthy by spotting small problems before
they become big problems. The regular tasks that you need to perform are listed
according to how frequently they need to be done.

Daily Tasks
1. Feed the fish. You can feed fish until they stop eating, or feed them a set amount.
Calculating the exact amount of feed to provide is quite complicated, so I suggest
feeding them until they stop eating on a daily basis. It is important to watch your fish
eat. If they aren't eating happily then there may be something wrong.
2. Check that the water level half fills the connector pipes and add water if necessary.
3. Check to make sure screens over the inlets and outlets aren't clogged.
4. Check the air stone to make sure that it isn't clogged and that the air pump is
functioning properly. Clean or replace the air stone when appropriate.
5. Look at the fish to see if they seem healthy.

Weekly Tasks
1. Harvest excess plant materials feed to fish or put into compost.
2. Check sediment levels at the bottom of the fish tank. They should not be building up
but rather be removed by the airlift pump. If they have built up, use a siphon to remove
any excess.
3. Check ammonia levels. There are numerous kits to measure ammonia available at
aquarium stores - read the directions carefully. If ammonia levels are too high, cut back
on feed and/or increase aeration (i.e. add another air stone to the fish tank.) .

Monthly Tasks
1. Harvest and restock fish, if required.
2. Remove 10 or 15 gallons of water from the system and replace with water that has sat
overnight to let chlorine escape. Chlorine is present in all tap water and can kill or harm
fish. By letting it sit in a bucket overnight, most of the chlorine will escape into the
atmosphere as gas. It is a good idea to always let water that you Intend to use with fish
sit overnight.
Use any water that you remove from the system in a garden. It is an excellent liquid
fertilizer.

Yearly Tasks
1. Remove oyster shell/dolomite layer and rinse. Remove the filter cloth and rinse out
any clogged sediment.

CONCLUSION

You are now the proud owner of a recirculating aquaculture system with live, happy fish
in it. Congratulations! You should read the Maintenance chapter to find out what you
should be doing to keep your fish and your system alive, growing and happy.
Chapter Three

An Aquaponic System

INTRODUCTION

Aquaponics is the combination of aquaculture and hydroponics. While algae,

submerged plants, and floating plants do a good job of removing fish wastes from a
recirculating aquaculture system, so can lettuce, basil, or many other common
vegetables and herbs. Fish wastes can be treated with a biofilter and then allowed to
pass through hydroponic troughs, where the roots of cultivated plants can remove the
wastes as fertilizer.
In this system, fish are fed in the fish tank. Their wastes are pumped with an airlift
pump into a biofilter pipe. This pipe is a smaller version of the biofilter tank used in the
recirculating system. As waste-filled water seeps through the biofilter pipe, bacteria and
other micro- organisms breakdown and convert the wastes into forms that plants can use
as fertilizer.
At the end of the biofilter pipe, the water spills out through an irrigation bar which
distributes the fertilizer- filled water into the two hydroponic troughs. As the water
slowly flows along the bottom of the hydroponic troughs, plants in pots draw water and
nutrients from the passing flow.
Small plants and seedlings are watered through the wicking action of wicking materials
in the bottom of their pots. Larger plants grow roots out of the bottom of their pots and
into tile flow, soaking tip lots of water and fertilizer.
After passing through the biofilter pipe and the hydroponic troughs, the cleaned water
trickles back into the fish tank, where the cycle starts once again.
This chapter shows you how to build a simple aquaponic system that will produce both
fish and vegetables. Like the simple recirculating system in chapter two, it runs off of

one double-outlet air pump. This design takes up a four foot by nine foot space but can
be made smaller if space is limited.

SITE
This system needs more light than the simple recirculating system, because vegetable
crops tend to need more light than water plants. A greenhouse, bright south-facing
window, or protected outdoor location is best.
If, you want to put it inside, you'll need to use lights to grow your plants.
This system weighs less than the simple recirculating system, but you should get an
engineer to look at any floor you think may not be strong enough. There are no throughhull fittings in this system, and as long as the hydroponic tray is higher than the fish
tank it can be put just about anywhere. For example, you could put the hydroponic tray
on top of an old table with the fish tank on the floor at one end.

PARTS AND TOOLS NEEDED

Hardware

1- 50 gallon plastic barrel - preferably food grade and semi-transparent

1 - 10' long 1/2" PVC pipe
1 - 1/2" PVC male adapter

2 - 1/2" PVC tee fittings

1 - 10' long 4" PVC pipe
1 - 4" end cap

1 - 4" "L" fitting

1 - aquarium air pump with double outlet

2 - air stones
10' of air stone tubing
1 - 4' x 8' board, 1/4" or thicker
3 - 1" x 4" boards, 8' long
2 - 1 " x 2" boards, 8' long
50 - 1" nails
White or carpenter's glue for bonding the boards together
1 - 6' by 10' piece of polyethylene vapor barrier (6mil is best). This is simply a thick
plastic sheet used to protect houses from moisture and can be found in most hardware
stores.
Staples for staple gun (if using)
5 gallons of oyster shells or dolomite
Plastic pots for plants
Bag of potting soil
Bag of perlite, vermiculite, cocofiber, or peat moss

Tools

Saw - to remove tops of barrels, cut boards and cut pipe

Hammer
Staple gun (optional - see STEP 9)
Felt pen - to mark cuts
Power drill
3/4" hole saw (or large bore drill bit)
Scissors - to cut plastic

Biological Materials

Buckets of water from local lakes, rivers or ponds

A handful of fresh compost
A handful of good garden soil
A handful of soil from a forest
A handful of soil from a meadow
Some snails from an aquarium store or local pond
Vegetable and herb seeds and seedlings
20 - 30 fish fingerlings (Nile tilapia are recommended)

CONSTRUCTION PROCEDURE
This system takes a day to build if you can get all the materials together and wash and
leach the barrels beforehand.
It is a good idea to add the plants a week or so before adding the fish, so that their roots
can grow into the water. Add the fish after the system has stabilized for a week or two.
Be sure to read ALL the Instructions CAREFULLY before starting to build so that you
won't be surprised by what comes next.

STEP 1. Rinsing the barrel.

Rinse out the barrel with a garden hose. Barrels often contain nasty toxins and should
always be handled with care. Wear gloves, long sleeved shirts, long pants, and safety
glasses when rinsing.

STEP 2. Leaching the barrel.

The barrel can be leached by filling with water, letting it sit overnight, and then draining
the next day. Do this several times, using hot water if available. This will draw out any
toxins that are in the plastic itself.

STEP 3. Cutting the lid out of the barrel.

Cut the lid out of the barrel as shown. Leave the rim intact, as it provides support for the
barrel, and be sure to leave a small flap to hold the airlift pump. There are several ways
of cutting the lid out, depending on what tools you have available. For example, you
could drill a small hole and then use a skill saw, or you can drill holes all the way
around if you don't have a saw.

STEP 4. Washing the barrel.

Wash the barrel. Use soap, warm water, and a scrub brush or sponge. Or take the barrel
to a commercial car wash. Rinse off the soap, re-fill, and let the barrel leach overnight
again.

STEP 5. Making the hydroponic trough.

The hydroponic trough is basically a box lined with plastic. A plan for a four by eightfoot double trough is shown. You can make the trough longer, shorter, narrower, or
wider, if you wish. The important thing is that the drains are spaced so that they drain
directly into the fish tank, and that there is a space to hold the biofilter pipe.
Cut one of the 1'x4" boards into a 46 1/2 " piece and two 16" pieces. Glue and nail the
other two 8' long 1" x 4" boards onto the long sides of the 4' x 8' board. Glue and nail
the 461/2" piece onto one end of the 4' x 8' board, and glue and nail the 16" pieces to the
other end as shown.
Find the center of the 4' x 8' board at-id mark it with a pencil. Mark a line 2 1/4" from
the center line on both sides of the center line. Glue and nail the two 1 x 2" boards so
that their inside edge runs along the 2 1/4" lines. You should end up with a 4 1/2-" wide
trench in between the two 1" x 2" boards, where the biofilter pipe will sit.

Using sandpaper, go over the inside of your trough carefully, looking for sharp edges
and splinters that might poke through the plastic. Also look to see if any nails have
come through that might tear the plastic.

STEP 6. Building the irrigation bar.

Drill a 1/4" hole through the 4" endcap, as shown. Be very careful to drill this hole
straight or else the joint will leak. Use the caulking gun to cover the threads of a 1/2"
male adapter with silicon sealant. Using a wrench, carefully screw the adapter into the
3/4" hole. Be sure that it goes in straight. You should be able to screw it until it is flush
with the surface of the end cap.
Cut two pieces Of 1/2" pipe 1 foot long. Cut one piece 1 inch long. Clean the cut edges
with sandpaper and then push the pipe together as shown.

STEP 7. Building the biofilter pipe.

If your trough is eight feet long, then cut your 4" pipe to be nine feet long (i.e. cut one
foot off the end). The pipe should be 1 foot longer than the trough. Being careful not to
bump the newly attached irrigation bar, twist the end cap onto one end of the 4" pipe.
Carefully rinse the oyster shells or dolomite. The smallest pieces should be no smaller
than '/4" diameter, to prevent the biofilter from getting too clogged. Scoop the oyster
shells or dolomite into the biofilter pipe until it is 90% full. Attach the 4" "L" fitting and
set the biofilter pipe aside.

STEP 8. Assembling the system.

The system needs to sit on top of something. Pallets, saw-horses, or concrete blocks
could Al be used to support the hydroponic troughs off of the ground. The end of the
hydroponic troughs nearest to the barrel should be just slightly higher than the lip of the
barrel, and the far end an inch or so higher than that. The lip of the barrel should be
about 36", so you need to find supports that will hold the troughs 36" to 38" off the
ground.
Once you have set up supports for the troughs, set the trough onto them and secure with
nails. If you are using cement blocks as a support, you may need to use rope or cord to
hold the troughs 'in place.
Place the barrel under the draining end of the troughs. It should just barely fit beneath
the troughs, and the two drains should hang well over the open top.

STEP 9. Lining the troughs

Check for sharp or rough edges in the troughs one last time. Lay the plastic over the
hydroponic trough and begin fitting it into the troughs. Be sure to allow enough slack in

the corners so that the plastic won't have to stretch when you put plants on top of it. The
central trough, where the biofilter pipe will lie, is lined 'in case of overflows or
blockages in the pipe. If the pipe overflows or breaks, the water will simply flow back
into the fish tank.
Once the plastic has been fitted, secure it by using a staple gun, home- made pipe-clips'
or binder clips from an office supply store. Although harder to make and use, 'pipe-clips'
will last longer because they won't rust.

STEP 10. Placing the biofilter pipe.

Carefully lay the biofilter pipe into the central trough, being careful not to tear the
plastic or break the irrigation bar.
Water flows through the biofilter pipe because the entrance to the pipe is higher than the
exit. You can adjust the maximum height of water in the biofilter by twisting the "L"
fitting at the entrance. Ideally, the biofilter should be mostly full of water, with a thin
layer of air at the top.

STEP 11. Setting up the air-lift pump.

Cut a piece of 1/2" pipe 30" long. Drill a 3/4" hole in the middle of the flap that is
leftover from the barrel lid and insert the 1/2" piece through it. You will probably have
to widen the hole a little bit with a knife. Push the 1/2" tee fitting onto the 30" pipe so
that one hole sticks straight up and the other is sideways.
Measure the horizontal distance from the tee fitting to the middle of the 4" "L" fitting on
the end of the biofilter. The idea is to raise the water up the 30" long pipe, and across to
the biofilter. Cut a piece of pipe to span the distance between the 30" long pipe and the
b1ofilter and push it into the tee fitting. Cut another 6" long piece of 1/2" pipe and push
it into the top of the tee fitting.

Cut two 5' long pieces of air tubing and hook them up to the outlets of the air pump.
Attach an air stone to one of them. Remove the air-lift pipe and drill a ?" hole 4" from
the bottom of the pipe. Insert the air tube without any airstone into the hole. You may
have to fold it to get it in. Attach a rock to the to the airstone end of the other air tube
and let it rest near the bottom of the tank. This will provide extra oxygen to the fish.
Begin filling the tank with water and turn on the air pump. As the tank becomes full,
you will see the amount of water the air-lift pumps increase. When the tank is full, the
air-lift should be pumping a reasonable amount of water into the biofilter, the b1ofilter
should fill with water, the irrigation bar will drain into the hydroponic troughs, and the
troughs should drain back into the fish tank. Check for leaks, add more water if
necessary, and let the system run for 24 hours so that it can leach. After 24 hours, drain
the system, refill, and let run for another 24 hours before Inoculating.

STEP 12. Inoculation.

Inoculate the tanks with biological materials. Sprinkle the handful of compost and soils
into the entrance of the b1ofilter. Add the pond/ stream/river water directly to the fish
tank, and add a few snails as well. Two or three tablespoons of rotten milk can be added
to the b1ofilter tank to encourage a healthy microbial community.

STEP 13. Adding the plants.

Half fill the plant pots with peat, cocofibre, vermiculite, or perlite. This layer will wick
water up to the plants until their roots grow out of the bottom of the pots. Fill the
remaining half of the pots with compost or good potting soil. Plant seeds or seedlings in
the pot and arrange them in the troughs. You should try to place them so that the bottom
of the pot touches the water flowing through the trough. Water them well with water
from the fish tank once you have put them in the place you want them. Watering them
will start the wicking action.

You should make sure that the plants you are growing have enough light and the right
temperature. Consult a good hydroponic or gardening book to get this information.

STEP 14. Preparing the system for fish.

You should let the system run without fish for a few days, so the various microorganisms have time to stabilize and the plants day or two for the water to warm have
time to sprout or compensate for transplant shock. This waiting period is also a good
idea as it will allow any residual chlorine in the water to escape into the atmosphere. If
you are planning on keeping fish that require high temperatures, you will have to install
a submersible heater in the system or put the system in a hot place such as a heated
greenhouse. Because the system contains a lot of water, it will take a day or two to
warm up to the desired temperature.

STEP 15. Adding the fish.

You have to introduce the fish fingerlings slowly to prevent them from being too
stressed. If the fish came in a bag, open the top to allow oxygen to enter. Float the bag in
the fish tank for an hour or so to allow the water inside the bag to come to the same
temperature as the tank. You can hang the open bag from the b1ofilter pipe or the airlift
pump so that the fish don't swim out. Once the temperature is the same, add a little bit
of water from the fish tank into the bag. Five minutes later, add a little bit more. Do this
a few more times, then slowly tilt the bag underwater so that the fish can swim out of
the bag and Into the tank.
Fish that are delivered in other types of containers should be handled the same way.

STEP 16. The first few days.

It is a good idea to cover the tank after first introducing the fish because sometimes fish
will try to escape from a new tank. After a few days, the fish will become accustomed to
their new tank and a cover will no longer be necessary.
When fish are first moved, they may not be as hungry due to stress. Feed them only a
little bit at first, gradually increasing the amount of food as they become accustomed to
their new environment.
If all your fish die in the first few days, then something is wrong with your system, with
the fish or something happened during transit. Call the person you got your fish from
and try to figure out what the problem could be. Usually, you can get replacement fish at
a discount if you can convince the fish supplier that there was something wrong at their
end.

MAINTENANCE

Regular maintenance helps keep a system healthy by spotting small problems before
they become big problems. The regular tasks that you need to perform are listed
according to how frequently they need to be done.

Daily Tasks
1. Feed the fish. You can feed fish until they stop eating, or feed them a set amount.
Calculating the exact amount of feed to provide is quite complicated, so I suggest
feeding them until they stop eating on a daily basis. It is important to watch your fish
eat. If they aren't eating happily then there may be something Wrong.
2. Check that the water level in the fish tank is high enough so that the airlift pump is
operating efficiently.
3. Look at the fish to see if they seem healthy.
4. Look at your plants to see if they are happy. Check for insect pests, diseases, and
nutrient problems.

Weekly Tasks
1. Harvest plant materials and eat. Feed scraps to the fish or put into a compost pile.
2. Check sediment levels at the bottom of the fish tank. They should not be building up
but rather be removed by the airlift pump. If they have built up, use a siphon to remove
any excess.

3. Check the air stone to make sure that it isn't clogged. Clean or replace when
necessary.
4. Check ammonia levels. There are numerous kits to measure ammonia available at
aquarium stores - read the directions carefully. If ammonia levels are too high, cut back
on feed and/ or increase aeration (i.e. add another air stone to the fish tank.)

Monthly Tasks
1. Harvest and restock fish, if required.
2. Remove 5 or 10 gallons of water from the system and replace with water that has sat
overnight to let chlorine escape. Use the removed water in a garden.
3. Check to see if the biofilter pipe is becoming clogged. If It is, remove the el fitting,
dump out the oyster shells or dolomite, rinse, and then replace.

CONCLUSION

You are now an aquaponic farmer, growing happy, healthy fish and vegetables in a
recirculating aquaponic system. Congratulations! You should read the Resources chapter
to find out what you should be doing to keep your fish, your plants, and your system
alive, growing, and happy.