Acknowledgements

This booklet was completed as part of an undergraduate

internship with the Inter-American Institute for Cooperation
in Agriculture (IICA) in Barbados, and part of a research
project for McGill University and the University of the West
Indies Cavehill Campus.

Photos: Lauren Forbes, Annelise Miller, Katia Colton-Gagnon

This project (and internship) was undertaken with the

financial support of: the Canadian International
Development Agency (CIDA) Students for Development
Program (SFD).

Many thanks to: Mr. Jeff Chandler (UWI), Dr. Francis Lopez
(UWI), Mrs. Susan Mahon (McGill Bellairs Research Institute
(Barbados)), Dr. Danielle Donnelly (McGill), Dr. Stan Kubow
(McGill), Mr. Joseph Peltier (IICA), Mr. Damien Hinds (IICA)

The editors sincerely hope that this booklet is used

successfully to establish home gardens in Barbados, engender
a love and appreciation of gardening and food production, as
well as well as contribute to the improvement of the health,
financial security and well-being of the Barbadian people

Page 24

Last updated: 26.08.2009

Sow and Reap the

Benefits!
Gardening to reduce your food bill and to
improve your health
Chief Editor/ Layout Design: Annelise Miller

Editors:
Katia Colton-Gagnon
Lauren Forbes
Annelise Miller

Page 1

Table of Contents

References

Introduction
The Benefits of Home Gardening
Garden Setups and Structures.
General Gardening Information
Good Agricultural Practices.
Observation, Records, Weeding..
Crop Rotation, Intercropping.
Manure and Composting.
How to compost.

Page
Page
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3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10

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Page

11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18

Basic Crop by Crop Growing Guide

Beets, Carrots, Celery.
Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage, Bok Choy
Cucumbers, Squash, Watermelon.
Lettuce.
String Beans, Okra ..
Sweet Peppers
Tomatoes
Thyme, parsley, chives..
Advanced Information
Crop Quick Guide. Page 19
Pest Guide. Page 20-1
Disease Guide. Page 22

Commercial Vegetable Production Guides. North Willamette Research and

Extension Center, Horticultural Sciences Deparment of Oregon State
University,18 Apr 2005. Available at:
http://hort-devel-nwrec.hort.oregonstate.edu/vegindex.html.
Accessed 7 Jul 2009.
Composting: Reduce, Reuse, Recycle. United States Environmental
Protection Agency, 2008. Available at: http://www.epa.gov/waste/
conserve/rrr/composting/index.htm. Accessed 25 Jul 2009.
Extension Series, OSU. Plant Disease Series Index. The Ohio State
University Extension Services Series, 2009. Available at: http://
ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/3000/index.htm. Accessed 04 Jul 2009.
How to Grow Crop Information Pamphlets [Celery, cruciferous
vegetables, curcurbits, lettuce, okra, string beans, sweet pepper,
tomatoes]. Barbados Ministry of Agriculture, 2001.
IFAS, UFL. University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Science,
Dept. of Entomology and Nematology; Florida Department of
Agriculture and Consumer Services, Division of Plant Industry, Jun
2009. Available at: http://entomology.ifas.ufl.edu/.
Accessed 3 Jul 2009.
Taiz, L. and E. Zeiger. A Companion to Plant Physiology. Fourth edition,
online. Available at http://4e.plantphys.net/article.php?ch=t&id=289.
Accessed 15 Jul 2009.
UC IPM Online: Statewide integrated pest management program. University
of California Agriculture and Natural Resources, 2009. Available at:
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/index.html. Accessed 25 Jun 2009.

References. Page 23
Acknowledgements. Page 24

Page 2

Page 23

Disease Guide

The Benefits of Home Gardening

Bacterial Leaf Spot (left)

-affects leaves of tomatoes, sweet peppers, string beans
-Symptoms: water-soaked greasy spots on the leaves
surrounded by yellow halos. Spots can combine to form
large, yellow-brown and irregularly shaped dead spots

Why should I bother with home gardening?

Health Benefits
-Physical Activity: Working in the garden can be a
part of your daily recommended physical activity
requirements. Regular physical activity lowers your
risk for chronic disease and helps in weight
management

-Management: Prevention!! Crop rotation with non-host plants; remove diseased parts; deep plough diseased debris; avoid working
with the plants in wet conditions and irrigate early in the day to
avoid excess humidity on leaves (the bacteria thrives in wet conditions)

-Fresh vegetables: Vegetables are excellent sources

of vitamins, minerals and compounds good for health.
Because home-produced vegetables are consumed
fresh, they are of high quality, are safe (you know
how they were produced!) and affordable!

Early Blight (left)

-commonly affects tomatoes
-Symptoms: small, irregular, dark brown or black dead
spots up to 1/2 diameter appearing on older leaves,
growing concentrically to be sunken dark spots with a
bulls eye appearance. Affects leaves, stems, fruit

Vegetables are integral part of a healthy diet and

producing your own is an affordable way to health!
-Relaxation/Therapeutic: Gardening is a relaxing
activity and serves as a good stress reliever
Financial Benefits

-Management: Prevention (crop rotation)! Remove diseased areas; use disease-free seeds/seedlings; control
weeds; monitor soil fertility and greenhouse humidity (ensure soil fertile; air not too humid)

-Reduce your overall food bill and improve your

finances: Less money spent on over-priced
vegetables at the supermarket leaves more money
for other important expenses and for pleasure

Late Blight (left)

-Improves health resulting in lower medical

expenses: Increased vegetable affordability and
consumption in addition to the physical activity
benefits makes you healthier and reduces your
medical bill

-affects tomatoes; extremely serious if not managed

-Symptoms: pale green, water soaked spots with

yellow halo on leaf edges, rapidly growing and turn dark
brown to purplish-black; when leaves wet and humidity
high, cottony white mould on lower leaf and at lesion
edges; green tomato fruit can develop large, hard,
brown, leathery spots sometimes covered in mould
-Management: dispose of infected parts properly (DO NOT LEAVE NEAR
FIELD) by burning, burying, shredding; use healthy tomato seedlings
free of lesions on leaves or stems
Page 22

Fun Factor/Educational
-Gardening can be very fun and getting kids involved
in food production can increase their interest in
consuming vegetables and improves their health
while having fun and learning about plants and about
responsibility!
Page 3

Garden Setups and Structures

Greenhouse

Grow Box

Pest Guide
Diamond back moth (adult, above left)

- A covered garden that changes the growing environment (like increased temperature and humidity) and allows you to grow in all kinds of conditions (e.g. the wet season)

-affects most cruciferous crops (broccoli, cauliflower,

cabbage, Chinese cabbage)

-Homemade or bought (using wooden, metal or

PVC posts, plastic sheeting or shade netting or a
clear plastic roof and a drip irrigation system)

-damages seedlings, disrupts head formation

-The most technical and expensive of the designs

but durable and efficient in design

-Symptoms: presence of eggs (bottom left): oval

and flattened, 0.44 mm long & 0.26 mm wide,
yellow to pale green, deposited on the surface of
leaves egg will hatch 5 - 6 days after deposition
Larvae feeding on the lower surface of the leaves.

-A self-contained garden that is not covered

-Can be made with wood, cement blocks or other
scrap material to make an enclosed space so soil
can be added to a much higher level than the
ground
-Much less expensive than a greenhouse, but
cannot grow sun-sensitive plants in it and need to
buy large amounts of soil to fill it

Container Garden
-A simple design using any type of container that
can hold soil (e.g. tires, plastic bottles/jugs,
garbage cans, cement blocks, etc.)

-Management: Grow cruciferous vegetables in an area sealed by

netting; when eggs are detected, immediately remove them;
remove cruciferous weeds in the area (they are hosts)
Information from: http://entomology.ifas.ufl.edu/creatures/veg/leaf/
diamondback_moth.htm
Photos: http://entomology.ifas.ufl.edu/creatures/veg/leaf/diamondback_moth.htm ;
http://www.inra.fr/hyppz/IMAGES/7032741.jpg

Mealybug (top left)

-Very small. Mostly attacks fruit trees but it can attack garden vegetables

-Flexible design and very inexpensive (if recycling

materials). Reduces waste when using recycled
containers

-Symptoms: Feeds on stems and leaves,

secretes honeydew/wax (bottom left) on stems,
leaves, fruits which attracts ants and may cause
sooty mold (a black, fuzzy mold)

-Safety of the containers is the only concern (e.g.

Plastics degrading in the sunlight over time)

Soil plot

-The simplest, least expensive design of all: just

using soil already found in your back/front yard
-Unused grassy areas and corners in front/back
yards can be used by digging up the grass and
applying fresh soil and manure before planting

-Management: introduce ladybugs (lady beetles) as a

natural control measure; can apply a dry soap wash (dish soap on a
sponge that has been squeezed out to remove excess moisture);
Remove loose bark from trees located near the garden (they may
hibernate in the bark)
Information and photos from: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/
PESTS/mealybugs.html

Page 4

Page 21

Pest Guide

Garden Basics

Leafminer (adult top left)

-Adult is a yellow and black fly, but it is the larvae
that are damaging
-Symptoms: twisting mines/lines on the leaf
(bottom left) due to larva feeding under the leaf surface
-Mostly affects seedlings, chards, and spinach but has
no long-lasting negative effect other than being unsightly

A few basic things to increase the productivity of your garden

Buy fungicide-treated seeds
If using drip irrigation, plant seeds/seedlings approx. 2 from each emitter

(hole); otherwise, use the same plant spacing between each seedling/seed
as between rows (e.g. 15 cm between plants, 15 cm between rows)
When watering, make sure not to splash soil onto the plantthis may

spread disease and contaminate edible plant parts

-Management: Protect seedlings with cloth (polyethylene, polyester,
plastic), clip off damaged leaves.
Information and pictures from: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/VEGES/PESTS/
vegleafminers.html

Nematode (top left)

-Eel-like, microscopic roundworms; root knot, cyst, root
lesion nematodes most commonly affect vegetable
crops
-Symptoms: Aboveground: symptoms similar to lack of
water or nutrientsyellowing, wilting (even when soil
moisture adequate), loss of vigor, slowed growth, fewer
and smaller leaves

Transplant seedlings in the afternoon instead of the morning to reduce

heat stress
Use Safer Soap or a neem-based natural insecticide (like Neem-X) for

pest control (if using Neem-X, use a pH buffer like pH plus)

Irrigate/water frequently and lightly in the dry season and monitor soil

moisture during the wet season ; prevent water-logging by ensuring

adequate soil drainage (raised/ sloped soil beds or plant on a ridge)
Practice good agricultural practices (GAPs) to manage your garden

sustainably (see following pages)

Consult the Ministry of Agriculture for treatment options in cases of

severe infestations / disease outbreak:

Belowground: root knot nematodes produce
characteristic swollen roots (called galls)
-Prevention: crop rotation (particularly with marigolds), soil solarization (moist the soil and cover its surface with a clear plastic)
every year. Sanitation important (spread is by infected plant parts
or infected soil) so buy nematode-free seedlings and soil, and avoid
moving plants and soil from infested areas. Keep the soil moisture
high by adding organic matter regularly (compost, manure)

Barbados Ministry of Agriculture and Rural Development

(246)428-4159 ext. 2289 OR 2272
QAS@agriculture.gov.bb
Or IICA:
Joseph Peltier/ Damien Hinds (246)427-4740/1/2

-Management: introduce roundworms into the soil; removal and

disposal of all infected areas
Page 20

Page 5

Environmental: GAPs keep your soil and environment

in good condition, further reducing your need for future
inputs and assuring long-term viability of production!

Page 6

Observation Skills & Record-Keeping

Weeding

Crop Rotation

Intercropping

Manure/Compost Use

Concepts to be discussed:

Page 19

4-5 months (110-150 days)

6-8

ensure adequate irrigation; harvest in the morning

remove flower buds when they form; do not apply fertilizer
harvest before too mature; can stake if vine growth excessive
harvest every 5-7 days before seeds become prominent
avoid erratic irrigation, use crushed eggshells to control slugs
remove flower buds when they form; do not apply fertilizer
prune new growth between major branch points; mound soil
harvest before too mature; can stake if vine growth excessive

5-6 weeks
6-8
varies
7-9 weeks
6-7 weeks
11 weeks
varies
10-12 weeks
12 weeks

8-12
5-10
6-8
18
2-3
9-12
6-8
12
24

Cucumber
Lettuce
Okra
Parsley
Squash
String Beans
Sweet Peppers
Thyme
Tomatoes
Watermelon

harvest every 1-2 days during cool period of day

harvest before too mature; can stake if vine growth excessive

7 weeks
12

Chives

remove flower buds when they form; do not apply fertilizer

monitor for larvae, caterpillars

6-8

Chinese Cabbage

Celery

approx 1 month (28-35 days)

varies

grow in shaded area; remove outer stalks to increase size

approx 8 weeks (58 days)

12-16

Carrots

12-16

tie leaves around curd when first visible; monitor for larvae

12-16 weeks
8

Cabbage
Cauliflower

monitor for larvae

5-10 weeks (55-75 days)
12-16

Broccoli

harvest entire plant and discard leaves

harvest entire plant and can consume leaves

remove side branches to increase head size; monitor for larvae

Well, what is meant by sustainable (in this context)?

8-10 weeks
7-8 weeks (50-60 days)

Time until beginning of harvest Other Crop notes

Rather than talking about organic growing, a term that

implies regulation and certification, it is more useful to talk
about sustainable gardening and good agricultural practices
(GAPs)

8
12-16

Beets

Practical: less dependence on external inputs, safer

vegetables and fruits

Plant spacing
(in inches)

Why GAPs/ sustainable practices?

Financial: less money spent needlessly on products

Crop

Simply: to be self-sufficient by excluding synthetic

(artificial/chemical) fertilizers and pesticides; by
maximizing the use of local/natural resources and by
applying good agricultural practices

Quick Crop Guide

Key Concepts in Sustainable Gardening

or Good Agricultural Practices (GAPs)

Thyme, Parsley, Chives

Where to grow
-Can be grown in pots, in a greenhouse, in cement
blocks or a grow box
-Best interspersed between other crops to reduce pest
infestation
-Best grown in full sun and can thrive in drier, less fertile
soil

GAPs
Observation Skills and Record-Keeping
As a gardener, your most useful attribute is your
eyesightyour observation skills.
Regular observation of your garden:

Detects the presence of insect pests, weeds, diseases

or any other abnormalities with the crops

Allows for easier management of pests, weeds,

diseases

Develop prevention strategies based on

observations and garden records like crop rotation and
pest management strategies

Minimize damage/inputs by early detection and

management

Spacing
-Seedlings should be 6-8" apart in a row or in a pot

Time until harvesting

-Vary depending on the variety and growing conditions

Harvesting

Record-Keeping

Allows for you to track garden expenses and profits/

savings

Document pest, weed and disease management

practices for future reference (what practices were
used? Were they successful? Why/why not?)

Note where crops are planted to make crop rotation

and intercropping more efficient and effective

-As soon as leaves are large enough for harvesting but

do not over harvest

Other recommendations
- DO NOT apply fertilizer to herbs because that will cause
them to grow too quickly and lose their flavour
- Prune/remove flowers from the plant to increase
bushiness and lengthen the duration of the harvest
-Do not plant chives near string beans as chemicals
emitted by the chives inhibit string bean growth
Page 18

Weeding (manually!!)
What is weeding?
The removal of unwanted plants that compete with the
desired plants. Weeds should be removed when they are
young and not yet established. Ensure roots are removed.
Why is it important?
Weeds compete with your vegetable plants for food,
sunlight and water and can secrete chemicals that damage/
kill your crops. They can also be hosts for insect pests and
diseases which can damage your vegetable crops.
Page 7

GAPs

Tomatoes

Crop Rotation

Where to grow

What is meant by crop rotation?

The practice of changing the location of each

vegetable crop in your garden every planting and/or
choosing different vegetable crops each planting

For example:
Planting #1 (e.g. May)
String
Beans

Lettuce

Tomatoes

String
Beans

Lettuce

Tomatoes

Planting #2 (e.g. November)

Lettuce

Lettuce

Sweet
Peppers
Sweet
Peppers

String
Beans

-Best grown in a greenhouse/ covered garden to avoid

sun scalding & bird damage

Spacing
-Seedlings should be 12" apart in the row.

Time until Harvesting

String
Beans

-10-12 weeks from transplanting

Why practice crop rotation?

Harvesting

Breaks the pest and disease cycle for crops (if you

-Harvest when pink if sending to local markets

or fully ripe (red and tender to the touch) if
consuming at home

plant in the same place multiple times, insects and

diseases get more easily established because their
optimal environment is always there)

Prevents the depletion of soil nutrients and can con-

tribute nutrients back to the soil (beans and other leguminous crops contribute nitrogen to the soil)

Intercropping

The practice of planting two or more crops in the

same space instead of mono-cropping (only planting
one type of vegetable in your garden)

Why practice intercropping?

Page 8

Prevent the establishment of diseases and pests by

keeping the garden environment diverse

Diverse array of vegetables for your consumption!

Diseases, Insects
-Diseases: bacterial leaf spot, root rot
-Insects: aphids, leafminers, whiteflies, russett mite,
leaf-eating caterpillars, fruit worms, flea beetles, cut
worms, mole crickets, flower midge, millipedes

Other recommendations
-Once a week, heap soil around base of plant
-Mulching using bagasse, coconut husk or plastic
recommended to retain soil moisture
-In the wet season, plants out in the open should be
covered in plastic to prevent disease and damage
-Prune the plant by removing any new growth emerging
between main branches

Page 17

Sweet Peppers
Where to grow
-Best grown in a greenhouse/ covered garden to avoid
scalding & bird damage

GAPs
Manure and Compost
Compost and manure should ideally be incorporated into the
soil before each time you plant
Manure

Spacing
-Seeds/seedlings should be 9"-12" apart in the row.

Time until harvesting

-11 weeks from transplanting to harvest
-harvesting can continue for 6 to 9 months

Harvesting

Manure from many sources can be used in your

garden to improve soil fertility (in particular nitrogen
content)

Chicken, cow or sheep manure are the most common

and can be bought fresh or in dried (pellet) form

It is best to buy well-rotted manure or to allow the

manure to decompose before using by leaving it out
in a pile in the sun for 1-2 weeks before applying

Always acquire your manure from a reputable source

and choose well-rotted manure to avoid the spread
of diseases and weeds (seeds can be in the manure)

-usually harvested when green and fully

formed if planning to sell at local markets
-peppers can be left in the field to further
redden if being consumed at home

Compost

-harvest with the stem on

Diseases, Insects
-Diseases: bacterial leaf spot, root rot
-Insects: aphids, plant bugs, thrips, whiteflies, flower
midge, slugs, leaf miners

Other recommendations

An excellent source of nutrients for your soil

Reduces household waste, beneficial for the

environment and can be done indoors or outdoors

How to compost
The easiest way to compost is to set up your own
compost pile indoors or outdoors. All you need is three parts:
browns (e.g. dead leaves, twigs, small branches), greens
(e.g. vegetable waste, grass clippings, fruit scraps, coffee
grounds) and water

-Crushed eggshells on soil surface work well to control

slug problems

Browns and greens should ideally be in equal proportion

when mixed and should be chopped into small pieces

-Avoid excess nitrogen fertilization and erratic irrigation

(this causes a rotting of the fruit)

(continued next page)

Page 16

Composting information from US EPA:http://www.epa.gov/waste/conserve/rrr/ composting/index.htm

Page 9

GAPs
Composting, continued

String Beans
Where to grow
-Can be grown in a greenhouse or in the open

Outdoor composting
This can be done by setting up a compost pile or by
buying/making your own bin in a dry, shaded area.
Method 1: Add greens and browns as needed and moisten if
they are dry. Once pile is established, make sure to bury (10
deep) new greens and browns when added. Compost that is
ready is dark and rich in colour(the bottom will be ready first)
Method 2: Layer the composting area with 6 brown, followed
by 3 of green materials with a bit of soil, and mix together.
On top of the mixed layer, add 3 brown materials and moisten with water. Turn the pile with a pitchfork or shovel every
1-2 weeks and move dried material on the edges to the middle. Continue until the pile does not reheat after turning.

Spacing
-String beans are usually planted by seed. Seeds should
be sown 1-1.5 deep and 2-3 apart

Time until harvesting

-harvesting can be started 6-7 weeks after sowing but
full maturity reached at 10 weeks
-Harvest every 5 to 7 days before the seeds become
prominent in the pods

Diseases, Insects

Indoor composting

-Insects: aphids, leaf-hoppers, leafminers, stink bugs,

thrips, whiteflies, mites, leaf-eating
caterpillars

Done using a special bin that can be bought or homemade. Instructions on how to make an indoor compost bin
and for further composting can be found on the EPA site:

-Diseases: fusarium dry root rot,bacterial leaf spot

http://www.epa.gov/waste/conserve/rrr/composting/by_compost.htm

Okra

What to compost?
Yes

No

-Animal manure

-Black walnut tree leaves or twigs

-Coal or charcoal ash
-Dairy products (butter,eggs,milk,etc)
-Diseased or infested (pests) plants
-Fats, greases, oils, lard
-Meat or fish bones or scraps
-Pet wastes (cat/dog feces or litter)
-Yard cuttings or other plant material
treated with pesticides or other
chemicals

-Clean cardboard and paper (no oil)

-Coffee grounds and filters, teabags
-Dryer and vacuum lint
-Eggshells
-Fireplace ashes
-Fruit and vegetable scraps
-Grass and yard clippings/trimmings
-Hair and fur, hay and straw
-Nut shells
-Shredded newspaper
-Sawdust, wood chippings
Page 10

Info from:http://www.epa.gov/waste/conserve/rrr/ composting/index.htm

Spacing
-seeds should be sown 5 apart; seedlings should be
planted 10 apart (all to be done in a grow-box)

Time until harvesting

-Can be started 6-8 weeks after planting
-Harvest every 1-2 days during the cooler period of the
day with clean secateurs (scissors), leaving 1 of stem
on the fruit
Page 15

Lettuce

Beets, Carrots

Where to grow

Spacing

-Best grown in a greenhouse/ covered (plastic or shade

netting) garden, using drip lines to avoid soil splashing

-Seedlings should be 8" apart in the row, in the open

Time until harvesting

Spacing
-Seeds/seedlings should be 8"-12" apart in the row.

-8-10 weeks for beets

-12-16 weeks for carrots

Harvesting

Time until harvesting

-5-6 weeks from transplanting to harvest
-harvest when lettuce head is welldeveloped, of good green colour, firm
and crisp

-Entire plant is removed for harvestingcarrot leaves

can be thrown out but entire beet plant can be
consumed

Celery
Where to grow

Harvesting
-harvest in the early morning with the
maintain leaf firmness and cripiness

roots intact to

Diseases, Insects
-Insects: leaf hoppers, white flies, slugs

Other recommendations
-Adequate irrigation required to produce succulent
lettuce

-Best grown in a greenhouse/covered garden (with

shade netting)

Spacing
-Seedlings should be 6-8" apart in the row

Time until harvesting

-4-5 months after transplanting

Harvesting
-To increase bushiness, periodically remove outside
stalks; when harvesting, cut at soil level

Page 14

Page 11

Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage, Chinese

Cabbage
Where to grow
-Best grown in a garden sealed/covered by shade
netting to keep out pests, however can be grown in the
open if monitoring the plants for larvae presence

Spacing
-Seedlings should be 12"-16 apart in the row.

Time until harvesting

-Broccoli: 50-60 days after transplanting
-Cauliflower: 58 days
-Cabbage: 55-75 days
-Chinese cabbage: 28-35 days

Cucumbers, Squash, Watermelon

Where to grow
-best grown in areas with a lot of room for vine growth:
for example a grow box

Spacing
-Cucumber: sow seeds 12 apart
-Squash: sow seeds 18 apart
-Watermelon: sow seeds 24 apart

Time until harvesting

-Cucumbers: 7 weeks
-Squash: 7-9 weeks
-Watermelon: 12 weeks

Harvesting
-Cucumbers: harvest when the spines on the

Harvesting

fruit fall off and the tendrils near the fruit dry

-Broccoli: harvest when head deep green, firm and tight

-Watermelon: harvest when tendrils near

the fruit are dry or when bottom of fruit
changes color from white to light yellow

-Cauliflower: 7-12 days after tying leaves around the

curd, when curd is compact and white
-Cabbage: when firm to touch and well-developed
-Chinese Cabbage: before seed stocks form

Diseases, Insects
Diseases, Insects

-Insects: thrips, whiteflies, leaf miner, aphids

-Insects: Diamond back both (larvae cause damage)

Other recommendations
-Broccoli: remove side buds to increase head size
-Cauliflower: tie leaves around the flower to prevent sun
and rain damage
Page 12

Other recommendations
-harvest cucumber and squash before they are too
mature, otherwise the plant will use too much energy
and decrease later yields
Page 13