Everything Electrical:

How to Use The Functions On Your Multi-meter

Preface:
Have you ever studied electricity in a college class or trade school and still felt puzzled at
the end leaving you feeling like the teacher failed you or that the theory just didnt give you anything
useful to use on the field. That they didnt prepare you for those uncommon or intermittent electrical
issues that leave you feeling that you dont have a plan of attack. Well either way great, youre not
alone. I myself read about 10 full textbooks on electrical, electronics, industrial electrical and
automotive electricity, that by the way were not cheap averaging in cost around 150$ each. But these
books still left me feeling they failed in many aspects to teach you real world tricks and tips. Well I
write this book to educate in a simpler way, for everyone to understand beginners and veteran
technicians alike. There is no reason to complicate things with big words that usually are left
unexplained by other books and to make it even harder to understand with bad examples. This book is
priced low but because I feel that everyone should know at least the basics. I will also include many
examples of each topic for better understanding. I recommend you reading the book front to back even
if you feel youve read too much theory of electricity already. My goal is to make you the electrical
guy that will fearlessly tackle any job. If this book does not teach you everything you wanted to
know, I guarantee that it will at least be a very powerful supplement to your learning on electrical
testing. I hope you enjoy.

My Own Take On Electricity

Everyone should know that anything that is technical, including electricity, involves a lot of
complicated physics and if I wanted to I can talk about how things happen down to the atom level. But
for the sake of understanding, keeping it as simple as I can and to teach only what you need to and get
to working on electrical problems as soon as possible, just accept that the way Im explaining it is
just for ease. Otherwise this book would be way too long and you would NOT want to read it all. But
my methods and examples do teach and WILL work in the real world for real life electrical issues.
His book will be part of a series on how to use multi-meters as there is a lot of material to cover and
I plan to cover everything about the using of your meter to measure electricity.

Table Of Contents
Ch. 1: Introduction To Multi-meters: Manual, Auto Ranging and Analog
Ch.2: Voltage DC & AC
Ch.3: Resistance, Continuity, Diode and Capacitance Function
Ch.4: Amperage DC & AC
Ch.5: Hz & Duty Cycle
Ch.6: Temperature
Conclusion: (Summary & Ending Words)

Ch. 1: Introduction To Multi-meters: Manual, Auto Ranging and

Analog
A multi-meter is an electrical testing tool that combines many different kinds of electrical meters into
one. The different symbols on the multi-meter represents a meter setting that measures something
completely different from other settings. The placement of the dial indicates what meter setting you
are on. There are three very different multi-meters I will introduce. The Analog multi-meter, the
Manual multi-meter and the Auto-Ranging multi-meter. The way you actually test something with
either of these multi-meters is actually the same, the difference is in the setup before testing.
Lets go ahead and look at the face of each multi-meters to see what they look like and note all the
important factors about each of them.
Analog:
The Analog multi-meter was the first multi-meter to come out many decades ago. In this multi-meter,
the unit AND the unit ranges must be manually selected via the dial.

(To use this meter you have to move the dial to the unit you want to measure as well as the exact range
you expect to measure in. As an example I will define the units on this meter and the ranges for each
of the units. In this multi-meter, the measurement display is shown as a moving needle through a
number wheel placed in the back of the needle. )

(As you can see around the dial, there are many unit settings to choose from. One thing to note on this
meter is the color of the setting. For example, the yellow capital V with the two straight lines is a
unit called direct volts or DC volts and has many different ranges under it. It include the 2.5 volt, 10
volt, 50 volt, 200 volt and 500 volt ranges. All these ranges belong under one unit of measure, the DC
volt. Another example is the blue unit mA or milliamps. This unit has dial ranges that include the
5mA, 50mA, 500mA, etc. All these ranges belong under one unit of measure the milliamp. )
Ranges are best defines as the maximum number value you can measure of that unit setting you are on.
In the 10 volt range setting the meter will only measure up to 10 volts. The analog multi-meter
requires you to know more or less how much you expect to measure of the unit before you will
measure, so that you choose the best ranges to measure in.
Tip: If you own one of these meters or a similar meter that requires you to manually select ranges, the
best way to use these and not have to worry so much about what ranges to choose is to start at the
highest setting. If when measuring, the number measured on the needle display is too small you should
move down one range, for a better resolution.

(This is the measurement display. After you have chosen your unit and range, next is to pay attention
to only the number values that match your unit selected.)

Manual Ranging:
The Manual Ranging multi-meter is a lot like the analog meter. In this multi-meter, everything is also
manually selected via the dial and depending on your setting the maximum allowable measure is also
indicated. For Example: If you are on the 200v setting, you are only allowed to measure up to 200v.
Any measurement above 200v cannot be read and will be displayed over the limit. To correct this,
you must select a range setting higher than the reading you expect or just continue to move the dial to a
higher setting until a solid measurement is seen.
In this multi-meter, the measurement display is a digital number screen.

(In this picture you see an example of a Manual Ranging multi-meter. The setting and specific range is
selected through the dial. The measurements on this meter is displayed through a digital number
screen. )

(As you can see around the dial, there are many unit settings to choose from. For example, the capital
V with the two straight lines is a unit called direct volts or DC volts and has many different ranges
under it. It includes the 200 millivolt, 2000 millivolt, 20 volt, 200 volt and 500 volt ranges. All these
ranges belong under one unit of measure, the DC volt. Another example is the unit A with the two
straight lines. This unit has dial ranges that include the 200uA, 2000uA, 20mA and 200mA. All these
ranges belong under one unit of measure the amp. )
Ranges are best defines as the maximum number value you can measure of that unit setting you are on.
In the 20mA range setting the meter will only measure up to 20mA. The Manual ranging multi-meter
requires you to know more or less how much you expect to measure of the unit before you will
measure, so that you choose the best ranges to measure in.
Tip: If you own one of these meters or a similar meter that requires you to manually select ranges, the
best way to use these and not have to worry so much about what ranges to choose is to start at the
highest setting. If when measuring, the number measured on the display is too small you should move
down one range, for a better resolution.

Auto Ranging:
The Auto Ranging multi-meter is a lot easier to use than both the other meters. In this multi-meter,
everything is simplified and the ranges for a unit of measurement is automatically adjusted by the
meter itself. All you have to do is select your unit to measure via the dial and depending on your
setting the meter will automatically take care of any range issues. For Example: If you are on the DC
Volt setting regardless of whether what you measured read volt or millivolts, the meter will
automatically adjust for the reading that it took and display in the best range. There is no need to
select a range setting higher than the reading you expect, this is done automatically for you so you can
focus more on taking the actual measurement.
In this multi-meter, the measurement display is a digital number screen.

(In this picture you see an example of an Auto Ranging multi-meter. The settings are selected through
the dial and the range for each setting is automatically adjusted by the meter itself.)
Once you have your meter set to the desired setting, the test probe leads can used for measuring that
specific electrical unit.
The most common units, their symbols and their measurement meanings are as follows..

(This chart shows all the different common symbols or abbreviations you will see on a multi-meter.
There may be other extra symbols on your meter that I may have not included, but the ones I include
are the only ones you will actually ever use professionally. Keep these definitions in mind and handy
when selecting your measurement setting with the dial on your meter.)
Depending on what you will be measuring, you turn the dial to the desired setting.
The next thing to note about any multi-meter is the test probes. Include with the meter will come a set
of test probes. One black test probe, one red colored test probe.

(These are your test probe that will also come along with your multi-meter. The black probe will
always be installed in the COM or common socket, regardless of what dial setting you are on. The
red probe on the other hand, will have to be moved around to a different socket depending on what
dial setting you are on. The red probe is installed in the socket that matches the symbol you selected
with the dial settings on your meter. For example, if the dial is on an Amperage setting, you will
install the red probe into the socket that has the same Amperage symbol as the one on the dial setting
you selected.)
Here are some images to illustrate what I mean..

(Here we see the DC volt setting selected on the dial. The red probe must be installed in the meter
socket that is labeled for Volts.)

(Here we see the AC amp setting selected on the dial. The red probe must be installed in the meter
socket that is labeled with the symbol for amps. The black probe always goes to the COM socket.)
Now lets go ahead and explore the auto ranging multi-meters with different functioned buttons.
The Dial and The Settings: The dial in the center of the multi-meter is used to switch to the desired
measurement setting. As explained before, you should already know what the symbols mean and know
what you are trying to measure. Then you follow with turning the dial to the symbol that represents
your desired measurement setting.
The Probe Sockets: The red and black socket near the bottom of the multi-meter are where you will
install your black and red test probes. The black probe always goes to the COM socket and the red
probe is installed in the socket that matches the symbol you have selected on the dial.
The Buttons and Purposes:
Range: The RANGE button is used when you are in a setting that can measure the unit selected in
more than one ranges of measurement. Milliamps (mA), Microamps (uA) and Amps (A) are the same
unit, they are all a measure of amperages or Amps. The only different is amount of the measured unit.
Milli means one thousandth of something. Micro means one millionth of something. This means
1,000mA= 1A and 1,000,000=1A also. Its just a different way of reading something because
sometimes in electricity, you will read very tiny values. Like one dozen eggs or 12 eggs is the same
thing just measured differently. The fact is sometimes you really will have to measure in milli units or
micro units because the readings you take from something electronic will actually be that tiny!
Example: If you wanted to measure something in millivolts(mV) but had a measurement displaying in
volts(V), you push the RANGE button until it displays the reading in millivolts(mV). It is the same
exact reading only it is displaying it in a different way by a different amount.

Select: The SELECT is used when you are in a dial setting that has more than one function. For
Example: If you were in the dial setting that contained the diode, capacitance, continuity and
resistance test all in one setting, you would use this button to switch between them into the one you
desired.
*C/*F: This button simply changes between measuring in Celsius (*C) or Fahrenheit (*F) when the
dial is on the Temperature setting.
Hold: The HOLD button is used to hold or lock an already taken measurement onto the screen of the
multi-meter. Removing the probes from the test area or test piece will not affect the held reading. To
reset back to normal and start a new measurement, push the hold button again.
Hz/Duty: This button simply changes between measuring in Frequency (Hz) or Duty Cycle (Duty)
when the dial is on the Hz/Duty setting. I will explain all these in depth later once we get to testing.
The Display: The screen display on top will show your measurement, along with an icon that
represents the range and/or function setting you are currently on.
Now you are ready for starting a measurement. Remember that with any multimeter, First select the
unit of measurement through the dial and Second install the black probe to the COM and the red probe
to the socket that matches your selected dial setting on the meter. If you do not have an auto ranging
multi-meter, just manually choose a range setting higher than you expect to measure. For this book I
will teach you how to use the digital auto-ranging multi-meter simply because it is more widely
common and used and is easier to use. Just keep in mind that the knowledge of how to set up the
meters and the differences explained between the kinds of multi-meters will also allow you to
understand how to use the other kinds of multi-meters if you own one already.

Ch.2: Voltage AC and DC

Important terms to remember before voltage testing..
Voltage Measurements: Any voltage measurement is a measure of the amount of electrical pressure
(voltage) that is pushing the electricity through an electric circuit. Just like how a water circuit in your
house needs pressure from the water companys water pump to flow the water all the way to your
house. Each electrical circuit will have a specific voltage to it for it to work. The voltage for the
circuit will be depending on the voltage that the power source, for this circuit, provides. It is the job
of the meter in the volt setting (voltmeter) to measure and confirm that this voltage from the power
source is present at the electrical device it is powering. It is also used to confirm voltage (electrical
pressure) at parts of a circuit where it should be present.
Power Sources: A power source includes batteries, generators, solar panels, etc. There are two main
power sources to know about when determining what of the two volt setting to use on the dial of your
meter. An AC power source, such as from an AC generator, produces a very different kind of
electrical pressure (voltage) than a DC power source, such as from a battery.
The AC voltage setting on your meter will be used when measuring voltages from circuits powered
by an AC power source. This includes household power outlets, household wiring, Industrial wiring
or practically any other electric circuit powered by a generator.
Example: A 110 volt AC circuit requires it have a 110 volt AC power source such as a 110 volt
generator. This voltage can be observed and measured with your AC voltmeter across the electrical
device for the circuit.

(This illustration shows a 110 volt AC circuit and the AC voltmeter selected for use. The test probes
must touch the metal inside the wires or the metal at the lights terminals, if available, in order to get a
volt reading. Touching the insulation of the wire is not enough. In the image you can see the probes of
our AC voltmeter are touching inside the wire. You also have to have the circuit on to see what
voltage is available at the light.)
Note: If you didnt know what I meant by electrical circuit, let me explain. An electrical circuit is a
set of electrical parts that when put together can make something useful, such as light. Every electrical

circuit needs a power source, a power feed and a return wire, a switch for control of the circuit and
the electrical device you want to power. The previous image I have shown is a basic AC circuit
involving the power source(generator), the two power and return wires, a switch and a light bulb.
The DC voltage setting will be used when measuring voltages from circuits powered by a DC power
source. This includes many automotive, motorcycle, aviation, some industrial electric circuits or
practically any other circuit that is powered through a battery or a solar panel.
Example 1: A 12 volt DC circuit requires it have a 12 volt DC power source such as a 12 volt
battery. This voltage can be observed and measured with your DC voltmeter across the electrical
device for the circuit.

(This illustration shows a 12 volt DC circuit and the DC voltmeter selected for use. The test probes
must touch the metal in the wires or the metal at the lights terminals, if available, in order to get a
volt reading. In the image you see the probes of the DC voltmeter are touching inside the wire. You
also have to have the circuit on to see what voltage is available at the light.)
In either of these settings you are dealing with measuring voltages or the electrical pressure that
makes the electricity flow. Every circuit needs voltage to make the electricity flow, just like how the
water in water pipes need pressure from a water pump to make it flow. You can test for voltage at the
electrical device to confirm that the voltage that makes the electricity flow is available at the light.
Whether it is ac or dc voltage, the hook up to a test area for measurement of volts is the same.
Note: When testing using your multi-meter, any measurements in any setting should be recorded and
analyzed or compared to good values to see if they are within proper specs.
Reminder and Helping Tips: When using a volt setting, the test probes must be touching the metal part
of the wires or terminals of the electrical device to get a reading. There are add on tools for your
multi-meter that make this job easier. They are called wire piercing probes.

(This illustration shows different examples to connect your voltmeter probes to a wire for a voltage
measurement. You must make contact with the metal inside the wire to get a volt reading. The top
image shows the tip of a test probe, piercing the wire to make contact and the other two images show
two different kinds of add on tools (wire piercing probes) for your test probes that make this job
easier and dont require you to hold the probe in place to secure a good contact and measurement.
Just be sure that once you are done testing, you put a bit of electricians tape to cover the hole you may
have made during testing)
One other basic thing you can use your voltmeter for is to check the voltage (electrical pressure) a
power source may have. One example is checking the voltage that a battery you may have lying
around still has. A battery usually has a voltage rating on it, that you can compare your readings to. If
the battery is well below even half a volt of the rating that it should have, it is done for.
Note: Many batteries, when they are below proper voltage, can be recharged with a charger to restore
the voltage to the battery.

(Testing our battery in our circuit to check what pressure or voltage it is providing our circuit.)

(Testing various battery voltages. Here I want you to get the idea of how you would measure battery
voltages.)
Note: In the previous picture, I want you to also note that the voltmeter in the 120v battery is reading
a negative voltage. This is because the test probes are reversed. No damage will be done to your
meter if you reversed the test probes in the volt settings, you will simply get a negative sign on your
reading.
For a very detailed training of how to use your voltmeter like a pro and test any electrical problem
fast, check out my other book coming very soon Everything Electrical: How To Test Circuits Like A
Pro: Part 1.

Ch.3: Resistance, Continuity, Diode and Capacitance function

Important terms to remember before testing..
Resistance: Everything electrical has some degree of resistance. Resistance refers to the resistance
to electricity. Anything that disrupts, slows or prevents the flow of electricity is electrical resistance.
Wires, Connectors, Switches, Terminals, etc. all have resistance. These things when good have a
very tiny resistance that usually doesnt interfere at all with the circuit working properly. But when
they are bad, they can have too much resistance and it causes problems to the circuit. The main
resistance of any circuit should always be the electrical load of the circuit (electrical device, this
case our light bulb in the circuit). It is the job of the resistance test (ohmmeter) to measure resistance.
The unit for resistance you will see next to your reading on your ohmmeter is called the ohm.
Continuity: The word continuity refers to completeness of a circuit. If there are no broken wires or
connectors, bad light or anything, the circuit is said to be continuous. A continuity test tests for
continuity of something electrical between the two test probes. When there is continuity you will hear
a continuous beep.
Diode: A diode is an electrical device that allows electricity to flow only one way. Its like an
electrical check valve. Diodes are usually only used in AC circuits where electricity goes back and
forth. This is why AC is called alternating. Because electricity alternates flowing back and forth in
both directions. The diode when bad does not control the electricity to flow one way anymore. This
will case problems to how the circuit works. A Diode test tests for the proper working of any diodes.
Capacitance: Capacitance refers to the capacity of a capacitor. A capacitor is an electrical device
that is able to store electricity, somewhat similar to a battery. The capacitance test measures the
capacity of electrical storage a capacitor can take.
In this meter dial setting you are dealing with measuring Resistance, Continuity, Diodes and
Capacitance. These settings are usually grouped into one because in every one of them, the multimeter is actually sending out its own electricity to complete these kinds of tests. Regardless of the
specific setting, the hook up to a test piece for measurement is nearly the same.
Note: When testing using your multi-meter, any measurements in any setting should be recorded and
analyzed or compared to good values to see if they are within proper specs.

Testing Any Component Using The Ohmmeter:

(This illustration shows the multi-meter set to the Resistance or Ohm setting. We see how to test a
wire for resistance. The same rules, like the voltmeter, apply about needing to touch the inside of the
wire to get a reading. In this setting you are testing for resistance in ohms between where you place
the two test probes. If there is resistance between the two test probes through the wire, the meter will
display the amount in ohms. If there is absolutely no resistance at all you will read 0 ohms. But if
there is unlimited or way too much resistance between the two test probes, the ohmmeter will not
read anything and instead display an OL or infinite symbol which indicates a break somewhere in the
wire even if the break is not visible.)

(This illustration shows multiple multi-meters set to the ohmmeter setting. We see how to test various
things for resistance. Before testing anything for resistance, it must first be removed from the circuit
and tested without being connected to anything but the meter. When the tester is installed across the
two terminals of an electrical part, the reading of amount of resistance will be displayed in ohms. The
readings shown above are just for examples, they are not readings you will always get.)
Note: When testing using your ohmmeter, any measurements in any setting should be recorded and
analyzed or compared to good values to see if they are within proper specs.

Reminder: Before testing anything for resistance, it must first be removed from the circuit and tested
without being connected to anything but the meter. Or tested with the circuit OFF.

Testing For Continuity:

(This illustration shows the multi-meter set to the continuity setting. We see how to test a wire for
continuity. The same rules, like the voltmeter, apply about needing to touch the inside of the wire to
get a reading. In this setting you are testing for continuity between where you place the two test
probes. If there is continuity between the two test probes through the wire, the continuity tester will
beep. If there is no continuity between the two test probes the tester will not beep and it indicates a
break somewhere in the wire even if the break is not visible.)

(This illustration shows multiple multi-meters set to the continuity setting. We see how to test various
things for continuity. When the tester beeps, this indicates good continuity. If it does not beep, this
indicates that there is a break somewhere in the part being tested even if the break is not visible.)
You can see that the continuity tester and the ohmmeter are very similar. Actually, they ARE the same
tester and many times the continuity tester will also give you an ohm reading. The difference is simply

the beeping that indicates continuity.

Reminder: Before testing anything for continuity, it must first be removed from the circuit and tested
without being connected to anything but the meter. Or tested with the circuit OFF.

Testing Diodes:
Before we test a diode lets take a look at what it actually looks like..

(In this picture you see a typical looking diode. The band on the diode marks the direction of
electrical flow when it is installed. Remember that the diode is like a one way check valve, it only
allows electricity to flow one way when it is installed to a circuit. This is only important to note
because the Diode Test has two steps to it.)
Set your multi-meter to the diode function and take a look at how to test a diode in two steps..

(Step One: With your multi-meter already set to diode test, touch one probe to each of the two
terminals coming out of the diode. Note the reading you get and continue to step 2.)

(Step Two: Now that you have tested the diode one way, reverse the position of the test probes and
retest it the reversed way now.)
Results: With the diode test you should get a no reading one way and a number reading the other
way. If the diode is good you will see these results. If not, then the diode is bad.

Testing Capacitance in Capacitors:

Before we test a capacitor lets take a look at what it actually might look like..

(This illustration shows different variations of what some capacitors may look like. The first one is a
capacitor that must be installed a very specific way into a circuit. The short leg to the negative wire
of the circuit. This is known as an Electrolytic Capacitor. The other capacitors can be installed and
also tested either way. We will use the first one for testing because it seems to be the most common.)
Note: All capacitors are labeled in a unit called Farads. When testing for capacitance, you will
expect to get a farad(f), milli farad(mf), micro farad(uf) and even a pico farad(pf) reading on the
multi-meter screen.

(To test a capacitor for its capacitance, set the meter to the symbol for capacitance. Touch the test
probes to each of the legs of the capacitor. You should get a reading in the unit farads that matches
what the capacitor has written on its case.)
Note: The Capacitance test on the multi-meter is usually only accurate to small capacitors. It loses its
accuracy on bigger capacitors. To test any capacitor accurately, an actual capacitance meter should
be used on bigger capacitors.

Ch.4: Amperage DC, AC and Milliamps.

In these settings you are dealing with measuring amperages or amps. Whether it is ac or dc amperage
or ranging from 1000amps to a few milliamps, the hook up to a test area for measurement is the same.
What is amperage? Amperage is the amount of actual electricity flowing through an electric circuit. It
can be compared to the amount of water flowing through a water circuit. Do not mix voltage with
amperage. Remember voltage is electrical pressure, amperage is the actual amount of electricity
flowing through the circuit because of that electrical pressure. Amperage can also be called current,
current flow, amps and even electrical flow. Now lets see how we would measure this using our
multi-meter..
Note: When testing using your multi-meter, any measurements in any setting should be recorded and
analyzed or compared to good values to see if they are within proper specs.
Testing For Amperage
Before we can test for amperage or amps, we must take a look at how testing using the ampmeter
differs from all the rest of the tests on the multi-meter. First, you break the circuit you are testing,
either in a connector or somewhere that is easily accessible. Anywhere is fine actually but you want
to choose a place on the circuit that is easy to break and reconnect the circuit in. Second, you install
the ampmeter in between the break you created. This will allow electricity to flow through the
ampmeter to measure exactly how much is flowing through.

(This illustration shows how the ampmeter is installed for testing. There are two steps. First, you
must break the circuit. Second you install the ampmeter in between the break. Turn on the circuit and
check your reading. You are actually completing the circuit through the ampmeter when you are doing
this.)

(DC Amps: In this picture we see our original circuit with an ampmeter installed. The dial setting on
the multi-meter is set to DC amps and the meter has been placed in between the circuit. We see that
with the circuit on, we get a reading in the unit amps of how much electricity is flowing.)

(AC Amps: In this picture we see our original circuit with an ampmeter installed. The dial setting on
the multi-meter is set to AC amps now and the meter has been placed in between the circuit. We see
that with the circuit on, we get a reading in the unit amps of how much electricity is flowing.)
As you can see, testing for AC amps or DC amps using a multi-meter is the same. You first break the
circuit, then you install the meter in between the break.
Important Note: The only thing you must worry about when using your ampmeter is the possibility of
causing an accidental short with it. Take care when using it as the ampmeter completes the circuit.
You can think of the ampmeter as if it were two jumper wire with a measuring gauge on it. NEVER
place an ampmeter across an electrical device when the device is installed in a live circuit or across
any battery either. YOU WILL CAUSE A SHORT. Worst of all, you will probably destroy your meter
if you cause a short with it. Be careful.
For the sake of understanding the symbols on your meter, I will add one more example where a circuit
read milliamps instead of amps. Just remember milliamps is not a new unit, it is still under amps.
Milliamps is simply just a fraction of what an amp is in value.

(In this circuit we are connected for reading amps just as usual. If you have a manual ranging multimeter this is where you would select the mA setting on the dial. If you have an auto ranging multimeter it will adjust the range automatically. You see here that with a tiny battery and a tiny light you
also got a tiny amperage. 10 milliamps to be exact.)
For advanced training on amperage testing using other kinds of meters take some time to look at my
other book coming very soon Everything Electrical: How To Test Circuits Like a Pro. Part 2

Ch.5: Hz & Duty Cycle

Important terms to remember:
Frequency: Frequency can be best explained as a measurement of how frequent (per second)
electricity changes in a circuit. Up until this point you have only seen a circuit just be either on or
off. However, in many of todays circuits involving electronic, the electricity is switched on and off
very fast. The idea behind this is that with switching something electrical on and off very fast you are
able to still power the device the same as if it were always on but also save some electricity from
when it is in the off part of the switching. The switching of electricity is normally done very fast. The
unit for measuring frequency of a circuit is hertz(Hz).The most common frequency I can think of is
the 60hz from your household power outlets. The 60hz means the electricity in the circuit is being
switched on and off 60 times per second!
Hertz: The unit for measuring frequency in a circuit. This is a measure of how many times per second
the voltage level changes (frequency).
Example 1: If a circuit has a frequency of 2000hz, this means that the voltage level changes from high
to low 2,000 times!
Example 2: If a circuit has a frequency of 200khz, this means that the voltage level changes from high
to low 200,000 times! Pay attention to the K before HZ in this example. The K means thousand.

(This example is a graphical view of what is actually happening to the voltage levels when referring
to frequency. As you see here, the voltage switches from high voltage to low voltage. The amount of
times it switches high to low per one second is the frequency. Here there are three high to low
switching per second so that equates 3HZ.)

(Another example of frequency. The amount of times per second the electricity switches from high to
low. In this example the frequency is 5hz.)
Cycle:
One complete high and low is known as a cycle. When textbooks refer to frequency they usually say
20 cycles per second when talking about 20HZ. A cycle is the time it takes to complete one transition
to high voltage and one transition to low voltage, starting at the beginning of the high portion all the
way to the end of the low portion.

(This is a picture example of a cycle. In talking about frequency many usually refer to a frequency as a
certain amount of cycles per second. A cycle is a complete transition from the beginning of a high
voltage all the way to the end of the low portion.)
Duty Cycle: The duty cycle is related to the talk about frequency. Duty cycle is a percentage reading
made from the amount of on time as compared to off time. To find this measurement manually you

can take one cycle from the frequency and compare the High (ON) portion to the Low (OFF) portion.
This can only be performed using an oscilloscope. I will give more about this in my next book
Everything Electrical: How To Use Any Oscilloscope
Frequency and duty cycle are often confuse to be the same. They are not the same. Remember
frequency is how frequent per second the electricity is changing. Duty cycle is a percentage of the on
time compared to the off time of this switching.

(Example of Duty Cycle: The percentage of on time, compared to off time of the switching. The
longer the ON time compared to the OFF time, the higher the duty cycle percentage displayed on your
multi-meter. In this illustration there are three examples of duty cycles and what they actually look
like when graphed.)

Measuring Frequency Or Duty Cycle:

Now I must admit these dial settings may or may not ever be useful to you depending on what you are
testing but I will show how to test for it simply because a multi-meter usually has it.

(Testing for frequency is done just as you would a voltmeter. You must touch the tip of the test probes
to the inside of the wire or use terminals of the electrical device as test points. With the multi-meter
set to (Hz) you will be able to read how often per second the electricity switches. The reading on the
meter shown is 60hz means it switches from high voltage to low voltage 60 times per second.)
Note: The Hz setting can only be used on a circuit that switches the power on and off very fast. A
normal everyday circuit that just stays either on or off will read nothing if you try to use these settings
on it.

(Testing for Duty Cycle is done just as you would a voltmeter. You must touch the tip of the test
probes to the inside of the wire or use terminals of the electrical device as test points. With the multimeter set to (Duty) you will be able to read the percentage of on time the electricity switches. The

reading on the meter shown is 50% meaning the on time and the off time are the same length of time.)
Note: The Duty Cycle setting can only be used on a circuit that switches the power on and off very
fast. A normal everyday circuit that just stays either on or off will read nothing if you try to use these
settings on it.

Ch.6: Temperature
The final Dial setting you may have on your meter is the Temp setting. This is self-explanatory. You
can measure temperature of a surface using the special test probe provided.
In this test setting you remove your normal test probes and install a temperature probe in their place.
Lets take a look at what a temperature probe looks like and where it goes connected to the meter..

(This is an example of a temperature probe usually provided with the purchase of a multi-meter with
a TEMP setting. The probe goes in the place of the normal red and black test probes.)

(Once the dial setting is on temperature and the probe is connected, it is simply a matter of touching
something with the end of the probe to get a temperature reading off it.)
This setting is probably the easiest to use. The only thing I have noticed about the temperature is the
fact that many will not measure a temperature unless it is physical touching something. That means
you might not be able to measure the outside air temperature with it.

Conclusion: (Summary & Ending Words)

Reading this book was only the beginning. I only aimed to teach the basics of how to use each setting.
There are far more skills you will come to learn that will make you very good at the settings of the
multi-meter and using them to troubleshoot the various electrical electrical issues there are. I have
made more books to cover all the advanced subject and issues more in depth. Keep an eye out for
new books explaining other electrical subjects you might feel confused about. Stay Tuned and Thank
you for reading.Good luck.