Food and Travel June 2015

15 DSLIST
20 AR RT
W SHO
AE
TH
HOT LONG WEEKENDS

Italy, Croatia, Greece, Turkey, Spain & Portugal
UK food festivals
Gourmet traveller
Latvia
Devon
An insiders guide
Fresh twists on
Salads
48hrs in
Seville
FREE KIDS special

ACTION PACKED HOLIDAYS RECIPES ANIMAL
JUNE 2015
4.40
ADVENTURES BEST UK BEACHES

FLIP MAGAZINE OVER
Editors
letter
64
Editor Renate Ruge

Creative director Angela Dukes
Deputy editor Mark Sansom
Consultant editor Ian Belcher
Editorial assistant Blossom Green
Sub-editors James Williams,
Nick Mee, Jo Lamiri
Research assistants Imogen Lepere,
Karolina Wiercigroch
Designer Kelly Flood
Guest sommelier Vanessa Cinti
Publisher Gregor Rankin
Account director Ross Lipsett
Account managers Tim Broad,
Tony Franks
Marketing executive Tam Hashim
Account executive Manon Voisin
Subscriptions
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Email info@foodandtravel.com
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unshine, welcome back! Dont you just love all that comes
with the real start of summer? Theres the scent of newly
mown lawns, strawberries and cream at Wimbledon and
corks popping at barbecue feasts where those late light evenings
seem to stretch on forever. Cherries are in season too. Discover
delicious ways to cook jellies and jams with their plump, sweet fruit
on page 20. Craving fresh green leaves? Try some fantastic hearty
salads on page 58. Its time for food festivals too, so weve put
together a tempting list of delicious dates all around the UK on
page 87. Seafood comes into its own around the British coast in
June, and top chef William Drabble is fishing for native lobster on
page 19, while on page 46 theres a great catch of fish recipes from
gumbo and halibut steaks to skate with a nutty butter courtesy of
former MasterChef winner and Dorset champion Mat Follas. Road
tripping around Devon in a vintage VW Camper, we taste farmfresh cream, crab straight from the boat and meat reared by farms
who care for their animals. The Latvian capital, Riga, is an exciting
emerging destination packed with gourmet discovery for Michael
Raffael on page 28. Then soak up inspiration for long weekends in
the hottest spots right now on page 77. And finally, turn to page 26
now to see who made the shortlist for our Reader Awards 2015
have your say today because every vote counts.
WINNER
PPA Independent Publishing
Company of the Year
WINNER
PPA Publisher of the Year
Contributors
Renate Ruge Editor

Food and Travel, Arabia
John Taylor, managing editor
info@gulfdigital.net
Food and Travel, Germany
Renate Ruge, editor
renate@foodandtravel.com
Food and Travel, Mexico
Cecilia Nez, editor
cecilia.nunez@lyrsa.com.mx
Food and Travel, Turkey
Mehmet Tel, editor
mehmet.tel@foodandtravel.com.tr
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Slawek Kozdras
Vanessa Cinti
Imogen Lepere
Travel photographer
Slawek has shot for
the likes of Polish
travel title Poznaj
Swiat, won awards
from the Telegraph
and Guardian,
and visited five
continents in the
past two years. This
month, he went to
Riga in search of
caraway cheese,
waffles with caviar
and layered honey
cake. His images
(page 28) made
us fall in love with
the Latvian capitals
spires, parks and
beautiful cooking.
Born in Turin,
guest sommelier
Vanessa Cinti
brings a wealth of
experience to CUT
at 45 Park Lane,
with a dash of Italian
charm. Accredited
as an Advanced
Sommelier by the
Court of Master
Sommeliers, Cinti
has also worked
at a number of
top restaurants,
including Wolfgang
Pucks Spago. Her
list at CUT has the
largest selection of
American wines in
the UK. Cin cin.
Our newest
recruit comes
with a typically
youthful passion
for travel. Having
spent a month
in Copenhagen,
summer in
Paxos and four
months in Nepal,
were advising
she plumps for
non-dom status
after the General
Election. In
this issue, she
combines her
love of beaches
with quality pubs,
in a feature for our
Kids supplement.
FOOD & TRAVEL
June 2015
RECIPE INDEX
STARTS ON PAGE 113
STARTERS AND MAIN COURSES
52
113
77
114
114
115
115
115
116
116
116
117
117
118
118
119
119
119
120
120
120
121
122
122
123
123
123
123
123
Duck, cherry and tarragon salad with hazelnuts

and sweet balsamic dressing
Sardine rillettes with whisky and
cauliower cream
Jellied ham and parsley terrine
Mackerel escabeche
Duck liver with seared melon
Vegetable tart with young Parmesan cream
Fillet of marinated salon with petis pois and
wasabi mousseline
Melba toast with lardo di Colonnata and
Comt cheese
Beetroot salad with Arabica coffee salt
Halibut steaks with cider cream sauce,
crackling and mash
Teriyaki salmon
Seafood gumbo
Stargazy pie
Prawn dogs with seafood ketchup
Skate with beurre noisette
Dillisk ravioli of Irish smoked salmon and goats
cheese with watercress pesto
Fresh dillisk pasta
Gravlax with dill and juniper berries
Lamb shanks with creamy ginger potatoes
Free-range pork with apple, cherry and sage
stufng and apple crisps
Scallop and green papaya salad with
lemongrass dressing
Parma ham, pear and stem ginger salad
Fattoush with spiced almonds
Honey-roasted carrots with citrus cream
Ossau Iraty, asparagus and crouton salad
Duck salad with yuzu dressing
Kamut with chermoula dressing
DESSERTS AND DRINKS

113
113
114
121
122
Cherry and rose petal jam

Cherry jelly with chocolate mousse and cream
Cherry, coconut and honeysuckle clafoutis
Apple and lavender topless tart
Salted caramel whiskey bread and butter
pudding with raisins
FOOD & TRAVEL
77
2096
105
64
52 40
20
15
Fish
dishes to reel
them in
Gourmet traveller
Latvia
Cherries
15 DSLIST
20 ARORT
H
AHWE S
15 DSLIST
20 ARORT
SH
AW
E
H
R
AWEA
ARDE
D R
S
UK food festivals
Fresh twists on
Gourmet traveller
Latvia
Devon
salads
Chinese
Fortune & flavour

Pra
wn
48hrs in
dog
with
Seville
Devon
se
af
oo
ke
tc
An insiders guide
Fresh twists on
Salads
48hrs in
Seville
An insiders guide
hu
UK food
festivals
Croatia, Italy, Greece, Portugal, Spain & Turkey
HOT LONG WEEKENDS
FREE KIDS special

4.40
JUNE 2015
FREE KIDS special

JUNE 2015
4.40
FLIP MAGAZINE OVER
20 Cherries
28 Latvia
46 Fish
HOT LONG WEEKENDS
ripe for the picking
On the cover
FLIP MAGAZINE OVER
58 Salads
64 Devon
77 Hot long weekends
87 Food festivals
77
INSIDE
46
TRAVEL
ARRIVALS
8
11
12
98
77
Hotel news New openings in

France, Italy, UK and Zanzibar
Sun bursts Destination

inspiration for quick sunny breaks
you wont have thought of
87
Food news Scallops, salt and new

products for barbecue season
Food festivals A UK round-up

of the top events this summer
93
48 hours Do Baku, Salisbury

and Seville in a weekend
Travel news Icelandic caves and

a trip on Burgundys waterways
15
Drinks news Manchesters bar

scene and a tequila revolution
17
Restaurant news Locanda

Locatellis makeover, plus burgers,
done the French way
19
Kitchen confidential William

Drabble talks seasonal produce
20
In season Cherries are red,

ripe and ready for plucking
40
Star pic Three-Michelin-star

Anne-Sophie Pic creates
restaurant-grade food at home
46
When the boat comes in

Fish recipes from MasterChef
winner Mat Follas
52
Emerald smiles TV cook

Clodagh McKenna gets down to
earth with traditional Irish dishes
58
TRIED AND TASTED
Salads of substance Healthy

ideas for summer that wont
leave you wanting more
Courses and deli Living off the

land at the Woodspeed Cookery
School and Boroughs Pulia deli
PLUS
48
28
Food cover: Steve Painter. Travel cover: Shutterstock
GOURMET TRAVELS
28
Latvian spirit Michael Raffael tries

Baltic liqueurs and hospitality
64
Devon is a place on Earth Marc

Millon tucks into cheese, seafood
and cream teas in the South West
101
102
FOOD
Restaurants Clos Den Sens, May

Fair Kitchen and The Greenhouse
go under the spotlight
104
Places to stay Bedding down in

Berlin, Milan, Oxfordshire, Tel Aviv
and on the shore of the Lakes
107
The wine column Expert Adam

Lechmere unearths the mystery
behind terroir-driven wines
26
Reader Awards This years

shortlist revealed. Vote now!
100
Competition Win a Slow Food

tour of Puglia worth 3,390
106
Reader offers Free kids

cookery classes and upgrades
124
After hours Chef Nobu-san

talks about his unique style and
where he eats for inspiration
autntica heritage
A long and colourful history lives on in our magnicent
architecture, vibrant culture and unique, unquenchable spirit.
This is Autntica Cuba. Explore it at autenticacuba.com
Arrivals
News and views from the worlds of food, drink and travel
AMALFI COAST, ITALY
Photo by Shutterstock
Dont look down. This road has induced more than its
fair share of vertigo, but the views from the top are,
quite simply, magical. As June starts, the region hits its
glorious pomp: ten hours of sun and 30C heat every
day along this 40km stretch. Its also far less busy now
than in July and August when Italian school holidays are
in full swing and tourists from the US descend. Positano
(pictured) shows the area at its blue-hued best, making
it the location for many a novel or quality TV programme
(and Entourage). Save the date for the Ravello Festival,
starting from 21 June, where the worlds very best classical
artists play at venues like the Oscar Niemeyer-designed
auditorium. Or you could bag a seat at an alfresco
stage with views like this one at 365m above sea level
a performance youll remember for ever.
Stay in Sorrento to couple a visit with a northerly jaunt to
Naples and the nearby ruins of Pompeii, or base yourself
just outside Amal town itself at the ultra-luxe Hotel Santa
Caterina for forays to the island of Capri. Conveniently,
June also marks the time to sample the best of local lemon
variety Sfusato Amaltano, as limoncello from the previous
years crop is unveiled. Fresh, zesty and light, we promise
its better than anything youll have tried before.
FOOD & TRAVEL
Arrivals
TRAVEL
COLD HEART
Its warm outside but Icelands
latest, hotly anticipated attraction
has a sub-zero centre. The
man-made Ice Cave on the
Langjkull Glacier, 130km northeast of Reykjavik, opens on
1 June, taking you 200m into the
ice cap, the blue of the tunnel
walls intensifying as you penetrate
deeper, older ice. Theres a
theatrically illuminated circular
passage, 30m below the surface,
and a function room that also
serves as a wedding chapel an
essential ingredient in any modern
ice attraction, apparently along
with a bridge straddling a deep
crevasse. Tread carefully.
Tours from 88 (including glacier
ride in an 8WD vehicle), icecave.is
news
Travel
NEW FLIGHTS
SPAIN Iberia Express recently launched a new route from London

Heathrow to Tenerife North Los Rodeos, ying Tuesdays, Thursdays
and Sundays. iberiaexpress.com
MACEDONIA Wizz Air starts ying from London Luton to Ohrid
Wednesdays and Sundays from 14 June. wizzair.com
dates
Diary
TOBAGO
Theres a party going
on 1 June at Pigeon
Point Heritage Park
with the Tobago
Culinary Festival.
The islands best
chefs are joined by
mixologists, wine
experts and swathes
of gourmands.
visittobago.gov.tt
8
FOOD & TRAVEL
ITALY
The ancient streets
of Cortona, Tuscany,
will be lled with
knights, ladies and
bowmen on 13
June for Archidado
Joust, a medieval
re-enactment of a
local lords opulent
wedding. giostra
archidado.com
HONG KONG
The Dragon Boat
Festival on 20 June
celebrates Chinese
statesman and
poet Qu Yuan, who
drowned himself in
278BC. Expect
a spectacular race,
partying, food and
legends. discover
hongkong.com
You may have seen military reconstructions

at Britains stately homes, but we guarantee
youll never have witnessed anything like
Junes dramatic bicentenary of the Battle of
Waterloo. Like a Cecil B DeMille movie set,
5,000 men, 300 horses and 100 canons will
recreate Wellingtons defeat of Napoleon
near Brussels from 19 to 20 June. First is the
French advance, then the next day the Allies
counter attack, leading to victory. There will
be smoke, noise and, this being Belgium,
fabulous hotdogs. 11.50, waterloo2015.org
USA
Make Music New
York falls on 21
June, the longest
day of the year. Its
being billed as the
largest music event
in Gotham, with
acts from across the
world performing in
all ve boroughs.
makemusicny.org
SPAIN
Every year on
28 June, the eve of
St Peters Feast Day,
thousands of locals
climb a mountain in
La Rioja purely to
douse one another
in wine. You wont
need to bring your
own booze!
wine-ght.com
Photos by Andrea Migliorati/Foto Gierre; Hong Kong Tourism Board; M Fasol;

Cees van Roeden; Wild About Africa; Carl Pendle
WATERLOO SUNSET
USA American Airlines has just started ying from Birmingham

and Edinburgh to New York JFK. aa.com
Arrivals
TRAVEL
NAUTICAL NOTES
Its the perfect pairing: a serene luxury
cruise along Burgundys waterways,
and expert tuition in the regions most
precious asset. Belmonds newly launched
Wine Academy runs for three days of
the week-long trip along the Bourgogne
canals. Overseen by oenologist Pascal
Wagner, theres a lunch with 11 topnotch wines at Puligny Montrachets
Chteau Leaive, blind tasting at Chteau
Pommard home to award-laden pinot
noir and optional hot-air balloon ights.
Its not cheap. The academy, needing at
least four people, adds 700pp to the cost
of the acclaimed seven-day cruises, which
also feature cycling and gourmet cookery
classes.From 3,600pp, belmond.com
Swell safari
While we pray for a bone-dry midsummer, June in Botswanas
Okavango Delta means oodwater. Lots of oodwater. Lubricated
by seasonal rains in the Angolan highlands, 1,200km to the west,
the inland delta fringing the Kalahari Desert swells to three
times its normal size at this time of year, attracting a prolic riot
of wildlife. For the next three months the extraordinary Unesco
World Heritage site is best viewed from a mokoro (hollowedout tree canoe) or plane, before it subsides, swallowed by ora,
evaporation and, of course, thirsty animals. Eight-day Moremi
wildlife safari camping trips from 1,241pp
(excluding ights). wildaboutafrica.com
Copenhagen
in six stops
Imogen Lepere seeks out smoked
sturgeon, chic design and a little
mermaid in Denmarks cool capital
For a potted Danish history, catch a boat

from Inderhavnen (the inner harbour) for a tour
taking in Queen Margrethes palace, the Black
Diamond a startlingly linear extension to the royal
library and the (very) Little Mermaid statue.
2
3
Exclusive hideaway Nimb boasts its own take

on Scandi style, blending antiques, paintings
and dark wood into 17 contemporary suites.
Along with one of the citys peachiest wine cellars, it
has the Tivoli Gardens on its doorstep. hotel.nimb.dk
Built on a reclaimed military practice ground,

the free state of Christiania embodies the
idealism of the Seventies. Its hippy-haired
hash dealers on Pusher Street may be no more, but
Copenhagens town within a city is still an enclave
of whimsical tree houses, veganism and rebellion.
Noma may have worn the worlds best

restaurant crown four years running, but
Copenhagen has plenty more Michelin-starred
eateries. Amass, for example, offers Matt Orlandos
spontaneous cooking; ingredients include hot
smoked sturgeon, savoy cabbage, bone marrow
and hazelnut. amassrestaurant.com
For industrial chic, don your duster coat

and Fjllrven bag then head to Kodbyen,
packed with hip hangouts and working
abbatoirs, where bluff butchers and beautiful people
rub shoulders over an egalitarian Danish beer.
Set aside an afternoon for the Harbour Bath

at Islands Brygge. Its ve pools are constantly
refreshed by the canals crisp water, while the
surrounding park is perfect for sipping coffee and
admiring Copenhagens spires. teambade.kk.dk
FOOD & TRAVEL
Arrivals
HOTELS
Hotel news
Words by Alex Allen. G-Rough photo by Design Hotels
OPENINGS IN ZANZIBAR UK FRANCE ITALY
ecently opened on the islands calm and breezy western

coast, the Park Hyatt Zanzibar, zanzibar.park.hyatt.com,
has its 67 rooms and suites spread between the past and
present. Half are in a 17th-century Zanzibari mansion built around
a lush courtyard garden, and the other in a modern building with
an ocean-facing infinity pool. Guests will be slack-jawed when
they see the amount of suspended crystal in the dining room
where chef Teuku Syafrulsyah serves locally sourced food that
nods to the islands Arabian, Persian and Portuguese heritage.
The Anantara Spa and fitness centre complete this formidable
address. As expected, a refurbishment of The Goring, thegoring.
com, in time for its 105th birthday was more than just a fresh lick
of paint. Lining the mighty Front Hall, hand-painted wallpaper is a
whimsical take on the English countryside. Georgian-style furniture
complements this contemporary country manor feel that includes
full-length Gainsborough silk drapes. All 69 of the rooms and
suites have been updated. Sofitel Paris Le Faubourg, sofitel.
com, also unveiled a new look last month, after a year-long closure
and stunning renovation by designer Didier Gomez. Alongside
a Parisian aesthetic in keeping with the proliferation of designer
boutiques just outside, it also plays host to three-Michelin-star
chef Yannick Allnos new gastronomic hotspot Stay Faubourg.
Clockwise from top

left: Roman period
living; G-Roughs
historic facade; one
of its shabby-chic
rooms; bedding
down at Park Hyatt
Zanzibar; sailing the
calm local waters;
its beachfront
location; relax
at Sofitel Paris
Le Faubourg after
hitting the shops
First of all, there is nothing rough about

the G-Rough, a new ten-suite boutique
hotel in the centre of Rome. Any surface
left touched by age, any cracked glaze
or mirror freckled with a copper tarnish is
just so for a reason. Faded plasterwork
on the bedroom walls comes in a range
of delicately speckled soft pastels
subtle backdrops to the artworks that
adorn them. The attention to detail is
everywhere, including the furniture: a
mix of brightly coloured mid-century
Italian classics that pop against the
antique parquet floors and faded tiles.
Some rooms have mezzanine sleeping
quarters, and a balcony from which to
admire the rest of the space. In a few
of the suites, small, sun-splashed roof
terraces offer teasing glimpses of the
city beyond. Downstairs, the lobby level
bar is a dazzling grotto of gold tiles, cut
crystal glasses and flowers blooming
from blown-glass vases. And if thats
not enough, take a step outside the
17th-century buildings doors and you
have Piazza Navonas fountains and the
Pantheons imposing architecture to
admire. G-whizz. g-rough.com
Arrivals
FOOD
Grand
POT LUCK
Even the fussiest of guests
will enjoy a restaurantquality pudding, complete
with a reusable ceramic
ramekin, courtesy of the
professionally trained
chefs at Pots & Co. On
show at Taste of London
(17-21 June), the range
includes this fresh-tasting
Passion Fruit & Orange Pot
(2/110g). potsandco.com
Straw
CANALES
A speciality of Bordeaux, canels

have been made by French artisans
since the 17th century. Now Londonbased company Babelle has added a
contemporary twist to the traditional
teatime snack, available at Fortnum
& Mason. Choose from eight avours
including Lavender, Dulce de Leche
and Rum (2.65 each, box of four 10).
fortnumandmason.com
POLL
One of the UKs remotest producers,

Stag Bakeries in the Outer Hebrides
gets our vote for its delicious allbutter cheese straws, avoured with
Scottish cheese, including Ayrshire
Bonnet and Smoked Dunlop (3.49/
100g). stagbakeries.co.uk
SCALLOP
KING
Waitroses Scottish
King Scallops (29.99
per kg) are caught
by small boats off
the Shetland Islands.
Andrew Charles of the
J Charles family shing
company says cleaning
them as soon as they
are shucked is the
secret to ensuring their
lovely white colour.
waitrose.com
IT TAKES
Nutrient-rich with
subtle umami, seaweed
has long been a choice
for cooks in the know
and is now part of the
Seaweed Seasonings
range (2.95/40g) from
Cornish Sea Salt Co. Pep
up a stir-fry with Fiery
Sea Pepper or sprinkle
Original Sea Pepper
over grilled salmon,
steak or calamari.
cornishseasalt.co.uk
ALL SALTS
BREAKFAST in Bel-Air
Entrepreneur Andrew Bredon has made it his mission to
bring LA sunshine to our shores with light, feel-good fast
food. Head to his new Shoreditch eatery, Bel-Air, for open
breakfast sandwiches (pictured below) on San Francisco-style
sourdough or wheat-free dark rye bread; Muscle Beach
steak with spinach and poached egg; or signature mixand-match salads for a healthier lunch. bel-air.co
LIGHT MY
1
fire
Making the most of the lighter evenings, were

ready to dust down the barbecue and don our
chefs whites for an outdoor feast, starting with
these sticky lamb belly ribs with a Yorkshire beer
glaze (pictured). 5/475g, marksandspencer.com
Saving you time trawling the web for prime

meats, Meat Porter sources traditional, artisan
cuts from many of the free-range producers that
supply the UKs top restaurants. The BBQ Box (45)
is a new home-delivery showpiece, with something
for everyone, from hearty rump steaks (below) to
lamb and mint burgers. meatporter.com
Veggies wont feel cheesed off with Marks &

Spencers Sussex-made halloumi (4/200g)
barbecued with fresh peppers. Well also be offering
our non-meat-eating guests butternut and smoked
paprika, or broccoli, leek and cheese bangers
packed with tasty Cornish Cove Cheddar (both
3/270g). marksandspencer.com
Made in Manchester by a family-owned rm,

The Great British Butchers British BBQ Rub
(from 2.99/50g) adds a delicious smoky avour
to homemade beef burgers when mixed with fresh
mince. Or smother it over pork ribs and grill until
dark and succulent. greatbritishbutcher.com
Words by Heidi Ruge. Salt photo by David Griffen Photography
5
A ROSE BY ANY
OTHER NAME
Toast the summer with Luscombes
latest soft drink, handmade in
Devon by the award-winning
producer. A perfect match for those
longer days, delicate Damascene
Rose Bubbly (1.79/32cl)
celebrates the majestic rose of the
Orient. A fresh alternative to a glass
of champagne, its subtle avour is
crafted using muscat grape juice,
rose water and Sicilian lemon
muddled with sparkling spring
water. luscombe.co.uk
Keeping it British, well be looking to Essex

preserve experts Tiptree to top it all off. Revived
after a decade, its Sweet Pepper Relish (2.09/195g)
is a avoursome mix of red and green peppers with
chunky apples and tomatoes. tiptree.com
Arrivals
DRINKS
I should
COCO
candidate
Mancunian
Manchesters bar scene is fast gaining traction as

the best in the UK, with The Smitheld Social the
latest arrival in the timelessly cool Northern Quarter
as part of restaurant Bluu. We love it when a
bartender backs his skills, so Tony Lovatts menu of
just ten cocktails resonates. Who needs a list as
long as your arm when they are this good. Try the
Queen Mary, a take on the Bloody Mary with black
pudding and bacon; or Smitheld Punch for two,
with gin, pear liqueur and pear vodka. bluu.co.uk
The tequila
revolution is
well underway
and the drink
no longer
sits on the
back bar,
waiting to be
bought and
regretted.
Any number of artisan pours
are now available including
the latest, 1800 Coconut. Its
designed to be drunk
straight to show off its long,
sweet nish. Or you can
serve on the rocks with
pineapple juice and lime.
29.95, 31dover.com
news
Drinks
DRS
ORDERS
Just opened
in east London is
Tonic & Remedy, a bar
championing cocktails
based on centuries-old
recipes. The space is set
over a ground oor and
mezzanine, with space for
dining and a kitchen manned
by chef Paul Welburn. Try
the apothecary cocktail:
based on a herbal
liqueur, cooked with
rosemary and
sweetened with
butterscotch jam.
tonicand
LEAPING SALMON
GIN HANDS
Redolent of Roman
summers, VII Hills
comes from a trio of
Italian bartenders
who met at Mayfair
den Mr Foggs (Food
and Travel Bar of the
Year) and vowed
to create the best
Italian expression of
a London dry gin.
Use it to make an
all-Italian negroni.
35, viihills.co.uk
One of the few family-owned

Champagne houses, Billecart-Salmon
has just released its 2006 vintage,
after being matured for eight years
in chalk cellars. Its a delicious
serve with crunchy ripe fruits on
the nose and white stone fruits
on the palate. Serve it with scallops
for an excellent alfresco lunch. 62,
champagne-billecarte.com
God
OF POUR
Naming a whisky after a Norse

god who lost an eye in the
thirst for wisdom may seem a
little peculiar, but its the nal
installment of the Valhalla
Collection from Highland Park.
Odin joins Thor, Loki and
Freya, and the 16-year-old
single malt is powerful, with
gentle, smoky peat aromas.
180, highlandpark.co.uk
VINHO VERDE
in numbers
95BC the earliest record of vinho

verde, mentioned by Roman
philosopher Seneca.
35,000ha of vines for vinho

verde across the north of Portugal.
38,000 individual growers, with
many farming back garden plots
15% of Portuguese
viticulture is devoted to
producing vinho verde.
FOOD & TRAVEL
15
15
Imagine a fabulous choice

of Viking river cruises
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From 895pp
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From pretty Amsterdam and Cologne
to lovely Heidelberg, multicultural
Strasbourg and the enchanting Black
Forest, this journey transports you to
another world.
From 995pp
Sail the idyllic River Rhne through

Provence on this 8-day journey of
exceptional beauty. Explore Vienne and
Arles. Indulge in celebrated foods in Lyon.
Visit historic Avignon. From your
award-winning Viking Longship enjoy
a new view of an ancient land.
From 1,145pp
Portugals River of Gold
Elegant Elbe
Imperial Jewels of China
From the charming city of Porto, sail

the Douro through a land of historic
churches, monasteries, castles, verdant
vineyards and outstanding beauty. This
memorable 10-day journey includes a
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From 1,095pp
Grand palaces, timeless landscapes,

ancient cities and picture-perfect
countryside there is a wealth of
wonders to explore on this 10-day
journey along the serene River Elbe.
Youll also enjoy a hotel stay in both
historic Berlin and atmospheric Prague.
From 1,495pp
This 14-day journey combines a cruise

along the Yangtze and hotel stays in key
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From 2,095pp
Call 020 8780 8594 or visit www.vikingcruises.co.uk

Prices correct at time of going to print. From prices are per person and based on two sharing the lowest grade
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and Conditions please visit www.vikingcruises.co.uk/terms-conditions or call us.
Arrivals
RESTAURANTS
LOCATELLI
LOOKS AHEAD
HAWKS
FLY NORTH
Just landed in Manchesters

imposing Courthouse building
is the rst Hawksmoor restaurant
outside London. It took owners
Will Beckett and Huw Gott years
to nd a site but the 130-cover
space has been worth the wait.
The usual stellar steaks are here,
though plenty is bespoke. Shortrib macaroni and veal rump with
fried oysters are great, and the
poutine is a Montreal-meetsManchester chip butty, with
cheese curds and extra gravy for
dipping. thehawksmoor.com
Locanda Locatelli
has reopened with
a 1 million makeover
after a gas explosion at
The Churchill hotel last
November. Expect the
same Italian classics
like lobster linguine
and bean pappardelle
that earned its regard.
locandalocatelli.com
FRENCH FANCY
Weve had American, Indian and even Japanese burgers.
Now its time for the French invasion. Big Fernand
launched in March as a French hamburger workshop,
claiming to offer 3,840 Continental combinations for its
meat in an artisan bun. The cheese is the real pull, so top
yours with unpasteurised French favourites like Tomme
de Savoie from the Alps, oozing raclette or pasteurised
Fourme dAmbert. bigfernand.com
news
Restaurant
BLIX SPIRIT
Fast becoming a restaurant hotbed
to rival Soho, Old Spitalelds Market
has just seen the opening of Blixen, in
a former bank. Its up there with the
chicest spaces weve seen this year:
points being added for vaulted
ceilings, huge light ttings and some
of the best-dressed staff in town. For
brunch, dont miss the blueberry
pancakes. At dinner, squid, chorizo
and chickpea stew followed by almond
ice cream is a must. blixen.co.uk
Fresh out the jar

Reclaimed
stripped wood
makes up the
oors and bar,
while quirkier
touches
include Kilner
jar light shades
that give a nod
to the name
or teams new to the industry, its a bold move to take on

the renovation, design and front-of-house management
of a restaurant. Lucy Brown, previously in fashion, and
Jenny Quintero, fresh out of publishing, took on their Drury
Lane project, Jar Kitchen, last year and have been wielding
hammer, chisel and sandpaper since. The results are quite
remarkable. Theyve created a laid-back space very much in
the modern London mould. Reclaimed stripped wood makes
up the oors and bar, while quirkier touches include Kilner jar
light shades that give a nod to the restaurants name. In the
kitchen, Dominik Moldenhauer (above, left), formerly of Dinner
by Heston Blumenthal, focuses on modern British classics.
For breakfast, expect slow-cooked duck egg with pease
pudding, grilled ham and brioche, or trufed mushroom
omelette with goats cheese and caramelised shallots. Its
open all day, with the lunch offering light and fresh, and a
dinner menu featuring pasta made in-house and some
standout sh dishes. Whether the restaurant world will be as
ckle as fashion, the girls are about to nd out. jarkitchen.com
FOOD & TRAVEL
17
Our UNESCO World Heritage

listing ensures...
+44 (0)207 647 1018

dwilson@botswanatourism.org.uk
botswanatourism.org.uk
pristine landscapes and

exclusive wildlife sightings.
Botswana Tourism,
6 Stratford Place,
London, W1C 1AY
Arrivals
IN SEASON
UK produce shines in June, says Michelin-starred chef William Drabble,
who recalls a childhood spent picking fruits and shing in rock pools
confidential
Kitchen
Interview by Renate Ruge
What Im cooking with
You have a dazzling seasonal array

this month omega-3-rich mackerel,
broad beans and peas, earthy
beetroot. Its a fruit festival of perfect
raspberries, tangy gooseberries and
succulent strawberries too. Herbwise, lemon verbena is growing like
wildfire in my garden in Wandsworth.
We use it in a dessert at my restaurant,
Seven Park Place, where cream is
infused with lemon verbenas delicate
zesty flavour, then combined with
yoghurt and served with raspberries
(see recipe). I like to use cherries too,
maybe in a warm tart where the fruit is
pitted and halved, and poached in
red wine and port for the filling.
The British seaside is a treasure
trove. I remember fishing for crabs in
Cromer and shrimping in rock pools
as a youngster. This month, I will
make a carpaccio of scallops, served
simply with cherry tomatoes and
basil. We all crave lightness of flavour
in summer, and you cant beat salads
with garden peas, broad beans and
the last of the asparagus straight from
the farm. Simple cooking is best, so
you can get outside in the sunshine.
I work closely with suppliers to
source the best of British all
traceable and responsibly sourced.
I find out whats at its best on the day.
Scallops and langoustines come
from Scotland and fish is caught from
the south coast in Brixham and
Poole. Fish is good now: turbot, sea
bass and my favourite, the native
lobster. It is fantastic, with firm flesh
and sweet meat and it hails from
our shores. I make a warm lobster
salad with peas, beans, watercress,
mustard leaves and chard and
warmed new potatoes. Depending
on the weather, the lobster comes
from Dorset or Scotland, its tail

poached and sliced on top of the
salad. Stock from lobster shells, with
wine and brandy, makes for a bright
red lobster salad dressing.
When I was nine, we moved to
Norfolk and a house in the middle of
a field. I foraged for wild berries in the
hedgerows picking and eating
produce there and then is the best
way to enjoy it. When cooking your
bounty, its about having respect for
good ingredients. Cook them well
and be creative. Seasonality is so
important food is at its best and the
price is too. sevenparkplace.com
I foraged
for wild
berries in the
hedgerows
eating
produce there
and then is
the best way
to enjoy it
Who Im using
Cornvale for meat from the Lake
District, Channel Fisheries, Keltic
Seafare for my scallops and lobster,
Solstice in London for vegetables,
and Paxton & Whitfield, the UKs
oldest cheese shop.
recipe
Williams
for June
To make my white chocolate pots with yoghurt,

lemon verbena and raspberries, for 4, rst bring
300ml double cream and bunch lemon
verbena to the boil. Cover with cling lm and
leave to infuse for 1-2 hours. Break 420g white
chocolate into a bowl. Bring the cream back to
the boil, then sieve it into the bowl with the
chocolate, stirring until melted. Leave to cool
slightly, then stir in 370ml natural yoghurt. Pour
the mixture into 4 martini glasses, or similar, and
place in the fridge until set. Make a syrup by
whisking 100g sugar with 100ml water in a small
pan. Add a handful of lemon verbena and bring
to the boil until syrupy. Cool, then remove the
lemon verbena. Top each glass with a handful of
raspberries and drizzle with some syrup. Enjoy!
Whats in
At its peak
Asparagus, blackcurrants,
broad beans, brown crab,
carrots, cherries, coley, dill,
elderower, fennel, globe
artichokes, gooseberries,
lamb, lemon verbena,
lettuce, loganberries,
mint, native lobster,
peas, pollack, radishes,
raspberries, redcurrants,
rhubarb, runner beans,
sardines, sea bass, sea
trout, sole, strawberries,
tarragon, watercress
Also available
Beetroot, courgettes,
Jersey Royals, mackerel,
marjoram, quail, red mullet,
sage, scallops, sea kale,
turnips, veal
FOOD & TRAVEL
19
Cherries
The juicy cherry is now ripe for picking. Partner the fruit
with seasonal owers in jellies, jam and clafoutis, says
Clarissa Hyman, or use as a foil for rich duck in a salad
RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING: LINDA TUBBY
PHOTOGRAPHY AND PROP STYLING: ANGELA DUKES
20
FOOD & TRAVEL
IN SEASON
CHERRY AND ROSE
PETAL JAM
RECIPES START ON PAGE 113

FOOD & TRAVEL
21
WHOLE CHERRY
JELLY WITH
CHOCOLATE MOUSSE
AND CREAM
F&T WINE MATCH
IN SEASON
Sparkling pink and oral

Italian brachetto
(eg 2012 Brachetto
dAcqui, Contero)
Wit& wisdom
Never take two bites at a cherry
take it all is a proverb thats been
around since the 16th century.
Traverse City, Michigan, claims to
be the cherry capital of the world
and hosts an annual National Cherry
Festival in July.
Because cherries have a high
potassium content, they have always
been recommended as a diuretic.
Chop cherry was a popular
game that involved lovers trying
to bite a cherry while it was still on
the tree. It is thought that this is
where the phrase two bites at the
cherry comes from.
22
FOOD & TRAVEL
wise man once said it is invariably

the case when faced with a bowl
of cherries, you begin by choosing
the best and end up by eating them all.
Life may be more than the proverbial
bowl of cherries, but the observation
rings true; cherries ripe, cherries ruby-red
and purple-black, their taut skin bursting
with sweet juice, are exquisitely desirable.
Unsurprising, then, to discover that scarletmouthed cherry-eating competitions were
a popular diversion in Kentish gardens
during the reign of King James I. According
to records, one young woman managed
20 pounds before succumbing to a severe
illness. A 16th-century understatement.
According to a popular legend proposed
by Pliny the Elder, cherries were rst
introduced to Europe by the general and
gourmet, Lucullus. Except Pliny was wrong:
Tart Morello cherries

are inky-dark and
this makes them
essential for black
cherry jam, Black
Forest gateau, cherry
strudel and kirsch
cherries were already being cultivated in

Italy by the Etruscans, having arrived there
from northeastern Asia via Asia Minor. To
be fair, Lucullus might have brought back
a special variety of cherry from Cerasus
in Turkey, and it is an easy stretch of the
imagination to trace the origin of the English
word from this fruit-growing city.
Turkey is still the worlds largest
commercial producer of both sweet and
sour fruit, but homegrown cherries are
becoming more sought-after. In England,
the trees are highly susceptible to our
unpredictable weather, yields can vary from
year to year and the growing season is
short, from February to March all factors
that have contributed to the grubbing out of
swathes of cherry orchards. This trend is
starting to reverse, though, as consumers
rediscover the pleasures of plump and
juicy English cherries that grow at their
best in the well-drained, sandy soil of Kent.
Harvesting the delicate, short-lived fruit,
however, remains an issue: ideally, it should
be hand-picked to avoid damage hence
the term cherry picker although these
days mechanised shakers are also used.
Cherries belong to the genus Prunus,
which also includes plums, peaches and
apricots. Cultivated cherries are descended
from two wild species: Prunus avium,
ancestor of the sweet varieties, and Prunus
cerasus, from which sour cherries come.
The former, also known as bird cherry, is
a reminder that one of the chief difculties
faced by the cherry grower is to harvest
the fruit before the birds do. At one time,
cats were raised aloft in cages to scare
off thieving birds.
There are hundreds of varieties of sweet
cherry in cultivation: with their skin colours
varying from dark red to almost white or
yellow; the meat from white to dark red; the
hearts white and black; and the juice from
transparent to dark red.
The Napoleon, a variety that is light red
and yellow in colour,
DUCK, CHERRY AND

TARRAGON SALAD
WITH HAZELNUTS
F&T WINE MATCH
Earthy and fruity
Hungarian red (eg 2012
Egri Bikaver, Bolyki)
FOOD & TRAVEL
23
CHERRY, COCONUT AND

HONEYSUCKLE CLAFOUTIS
F&T WINE MATCH
IN SEASON
Fragrant with oral notes and

light acidity Japanese sake
(eg Marigold, Amabuki)
Wit&wisdom
In medieval art, cherries

represented a sweet, pleasing
character, and the delights of
the blessed.
Native Americans used dried resin

from cherry trees trunks as chewing
gum and heated the sap for glue.
In 1533, Henry VIII sent his Royal
Fruiterer to Flanders to nd new
cherry varieties and bring them
back to England.
Cherries are rich in antioxidants
and anthocyanins. The latter have
anti-inammatory properties, so
can help with the treatment of gout,
arthritis and sports injuries.
24
FOOD & TRAVEL
is widely popular, as is delicately sweet,

scarlet and cream Rainier. Bing, which an
American grower named after his Chinese
workman, is the leading variety in the US.
In the UK, commonly grown varieties include
large, juicy Stella, but it is worth looking out
for rarer ones such as red-eshed Merton
Bigarreau and large, black Early Rivers.
Sour cherries usually grow on smaller
trees than sweet cherries. There are
about 300 cultivated varieties, most of
which are used for cooking and liqueurs.
Tart Morello cherries are inky-dark, almost
black essential for black cherry jam, Black
Forest gateau, cherry strudel and kirsch.
Categories of sour red cherry include
amarelles or griottes. The latter gives its
name to a speciality of the Franche-Comt,
in which each fruit is enclosed with kirsch
in a chocolate covering. The Montmorency

variety was once considered the nest
in France but is now a rarity despite the
annual Fte de la Cerise in Ile-de-France.
Crosses between sweet and sour cherries
are known as dukes, or bastardkirschen in
German and royale in French.
The small and very sour Marasca or
Maraschino cherry was originally grown in
Dalmatia (now Croatia), where it was made
into maraschino liqueur. The cherry stones
are crushed to release the almond taste
of the kernels, in contrast to kirsch, where
the stones are left whole. Maraschino
cherries in syrup are prepared by stoning
and bleaching cherries, then adding syrup,
bitter almond oil and red or green colouring.
Candied glac cherries are often dyed as
well and, given the large amount of sugar,
glucose syrup and preservatives added,
can be far removed from the original fruit.
Cherry pies have achieved iconic status
in middle America not just as a result of
the 1980s lm Can She Bake a Cherry Pie?
but also for the fruits versatility. It can be
made into jam, crystallised or bottled in eaude-vie, kirsch or cherry syrup. Cherries also
make gorgeous desserts: think compotes,
crumbles and clafoutis. Meat dishes with
fresh or dried sour cherries exist in many
cuisines, such as Turkish and Iranian, giving
dishes a pleasantly tart avour, while cherry
soups and sauces are popular in northern
and eastern Europe.
The cherry has inspired poets and
painters, but the strangest compulsion is
the urge to spit the stones. According to
Guinness World Records, the longest spit is
28.51m: by a contestant at the International
Cherry Pit-Spitting Championship at Eau
Claire, Michigan, USA, in 2004. Personally,
I prefer to leave it to the birds.
Cherries courtesy of garsons.co.uk
RECIPES
ON PAGE
RECIPES
STARTSTART
ON PAGE
113 119
OBSESSION
HERE IN TEXAS, BBQ IS AN
AND THE ONLY
MAY INDUCE EUPHORIA
CURE F OR IT
EXPLORE IT AND OTHER DELIGHTS
2015 Office of the Governor, Economic Development and Tourism.
THE
READER
AWARDS
Its here the shortlist for the fourth annual

Reader Awards. Be sure to have your say,
by voting for your food, drink and travel
favourites at foodandtravel.com/awards
FROM THE EDITOR

Over the past two months, weve been asking you to
nominate your favourites in the world of food, drink
and travel and did you ever deliver! From the basis of
thousands of entries we have compiled the shortlist for
our 2015 Reader Awards, which youll nd both here
and on our website, foodandtravel.com. Now its the nal
voting round to decide who will be the winners. Simply
go online and choose your favourites from the shortlisted
candidates, and those with the largest number of votes
on the closing date will be crowned the winners at our
presentation ceremony in September. So whether its the
tour operator thats given you the experience of a lifetime,
the hotel thats gone the extra mile to make your stay
special, or the unforgettable meal from that exciting new
restaurant, visit foodandtravel.com now and get voting
because its you who decides. Renate Ruge
THE SHORTLIST
RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR
Votes in the following categories
will decide the Food and Travel
Restaurant of the Year
HOTEL OF THE YEAR

Votes in the following categories
will decide the overall Food and
Travel Hotel of the Year
London
Fera at Claridges, Hedone,
The Ledbury, Lima, Pizarro
(Bermondsey), Pollen St Social
Gourmet bolthole
The Beckford Arms (Fonthill),
Crown & Garter (Inkpen), The
Great House (Lavenham),
Restaurant Sat Bains
(Nottingham), Tulse Hill
Hotel (London)
Outside London
LEnculme (Cartmel), The
Gunton Arms (Norwich),
Northcote (Blackburn),
Paul Ainsworth (Padstow),
The Terrace at Montague
Arms (Brockenhurst), The
Wheatsheaf (Northleach)
Timeless classic
Bibendum, Chez Bruce,
Le Gavroche, The
Greenhouse, The River Caf
(all London), Champany
Inn (Linlithgow)
Newcomer
Adam Handling at Caxton,
Beast, Blacklock, Mazi, The
New Angel, Spring
BAR OF THE YEAR
Galante, The Blind Pig,
London Cocktail Club,
Marks Bar (Soho), Mortons,
Rumpus Room, Sushisamba
(all London), Bon Vivant
(Edinburgh)
Rural
Gravetye Manor (East
Grinstead), Kinloch
Lodge (Skye), Langar Hall
(Nottingham), Lime Wood (New
Forest), Torridon (Wester Ross)
City
The Berkeley, Claridges, Ham
Yard Hotel, Mandarin Oriental
(all London), One Devonshire
Gardens (Glasgow)
Bed and breakfast
15 Glasgow, Bryn Afon
(Conwy), Glangwili Mansion
(Carmarthenshire), Greystones
(Oban), Headland House
(St Ives), Millers64 (Edinburgh)
International hotel
137 Pillars (Thailand), The
Aleenta (Thailand), The Atlantic
(Jersey), The Lowell (New
York), The Norman (Tel Aviv),
The Yeatman (Portugal)
TOUR OPERATOR
OF THE YEAR
Abercombie & Kent, Exodus,
Gourmet on Tour, Inghams,
Inntravel, Journey Latin Ameria,
Kuoni, Rainbow Tours
COOKERY SCHOOL
OF THE YEAR
Cactus Kitchen, Eckington
Manor, Leiths, Lucknam Park,
Swinton Park, Tante Marie,
Thyme Cookery School
SPECIALIST RETAILER
OF THE YEAR
Amaretto, Holwood Farm
Shop, Hunters of Helmsley,
Neals Yard, Newlyns Farm
Shop, Lina Stores, Thyme
& Tides Deli
SHORT-HAUL AIRLINE
OF THE YEAR
BA, EasyJet, Flybe, Wizz Air
BOOK OF THE YEAR

Before They Pass Away (Jimmy
Nelson), Best Ever Dishes (Tom
Kerridge), Cracking Yolks and
Pig Tales (Glynn Purnell), Duck
and Wafe (Daniel Doherty),
Fish and Shellsh (Rick Stein),
Persiana (Sabrina Ghayour),
Plenty More (Yotam Ottolenghi)
CRUISE LINE OF THE YEAR
Votes in the following
categories will decide the
overall Cruise Line of the Year
Ocean
Celebrity Cruises, Crystal,
Cunard, Hurtigruten, Windstar
River
AmaWaterways, Pandaw,
Uniworld, Viking River Cruises
Small ship/Adventure
Azamara, Hebridean Island
Cruises, Oceania, Regent
Seven Seas, Silversea
LONG-HAUL AIRLINE
OF THE YEAR
BA, Emirates, Etihad,
Qatar Airways
CHEF OF THE YEAR
Brett Graham, Jason Atherton,
Jos Pizarro, Marcus Wareing,
Mark Sargeant, Michel Roux Jr,
Nathan Outlaw, Tom Kerridge
DESTINATION OF
THE YEAR
Australia, Greece, Italy, Mexico,
New Zealand, Spain, Thailand,
Turkey, UK, USA
CITY OF THE YEAR
Barcelona, Edinburgh, Hong
Kong, Istanbul, London,
Marrakech, Montreal, New
York, Porto, San Sebastian
BREAKTHROUGH
CHEF OF THE YEAR
An industry-voted award
for a UK-based chef, who
will be revealed at our
awards ceremony
FOOD & TRAVEL
27
spirit
LATVIAN
A renaissance in artisan food and wines, innovative

chefs and produce that defines the city have all helped
to shape Rigas new personality. Steel yourself for
a punchy shot of the bittersweet Black Balsam liqueur
in this vibrant Baltic capital, says Michael Raffael
PHOTOGRAPHY BY SLAWEK KOZDRAS
Above: admiring the church

spires in Rigas Old Town.
Opposite: the terrace of the
28
FOOD & TRAVEL
Biblioteka No
1 restaurant
GOURMET TRAVELLER
RIGA
FOOD & TRAVEL
29
XXXXXX
Left to right: Latvian

cuisine at Restaurant
Renomm in the Gallery
Park Hotel; Rigas
Freedom Monument; rye
waffle with caviar at
Renomm. Below: dried
fish from a Central
Market stall. Opposite:
paddle boarding along
the Daugava river
Travel information
Currency in Latvia is the euro and the time is two hours ahead of the
UK. Summers are warm, and you can expect average highs of 20C
in June. Flight duration from the UK is about 2 hours 30 minutes.
GETTING THERE
British Airways operates direct daily flights from London Gatwick
and London Heathrow to Riga. ba.com
Ryanair offers direct daily flights from London Stansted. ryanair.com
RESOURCES
Latvias tourist board has a wealth of information about Riga
and the country as a whole, including shopping, entertainment and

sightseeing. You can also find hotels, restaurants and bars. latvia.travel
FURTHER READING
The Food and Cooking of Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania by
Silvena Johen Lauta (Aquamarine, 15.99). A Baltic bible of classic

cuisine, which contains more than 60 traditional Latvian recipes.
CARBON COUNTING
Return flights from London Heathrow to Riga produce 0.38 tonnes
of CO2, which can be offset via Climate Care at a cost of 2.83.
Donations will go towards supporting environmental projects
around the world. For more information, visit climatecare.org
30
FOOD & TRAVEL
hey tell me Riga is the nicest place in the world, wrote

the composer Richard Wagner, before adding, especially
when it comes to earning money. Latvias capital certainly
prospered back in 1837. When Wagner settled here it was the
most important port in the Russian Empire. Since the collapse
of the Soviet Union, and resulting independence, it has regained
its vitality and chutzpah, to the extent that last year it was
crowned European Capital of Culture. Through those long summer
nights, it never seems to sleep.
However much Rigans love their city and nearly a third of
Latvias population beds down here their affection also extends to
the landscape of forests, lakes and sandy beaches edging the
Baltic Sea that surrounds them. They are citizens who have kept in
touch with the myths and magic of their pagan past.
A green core of parks separates the Old Town to the east of the
Daugava River from one of the citys most beautiful streets, Alberta
Iela, where the extravagant jugendstil (art nouveau) apartments
were designed by architect Mikhail Eisenstein, father of Battleship
Potemkin filmmaker Sergei Mikhailovich Eisenstein. In an area small
enough to navigate on foot, these masterpieces are the legacy of
Rigas past as a global trading hub that supplied hemp for ropes
and timber masts for Nelsons fleet at Trafalgar. Their elegance is
a counterpoint to the citys stark, grid-like Soviet blocks.
Spared the backdrop of traffic noise, the Old Town is a quarter
where music is always bubbling to the surface and echoing down
alleys. By the Freedom Monument, built to honour those who fell in
the 1918-1920 Latvian War of Independence, a busker squeezes
his accordion. Along the Esplanade, a snake of schoolchildren on
their way to choir practice bang out a Buena Vista Social Club ditty.
In front of St Peters Church, dating from 1209, a trio improvises cool
jazz for revellers drinking beer and vodka at tables set out on the
cobbled square. By the Powder Tower, all that remains of Rigas
walled fortifications, folk singers look like musicians at a Breugel
wedding. Theirs could be the traditional Latvian drinking song: While
brewing the beer/I put a bee in my pocket/So that the ale-drinkers
would sing/Like bees buzzing in a hive.
Rigas Central Market, the largest in Europe, was built during the
1920s from redundant Zeppelin hangars. One area specialises in
meat, another dairy produce and a third pickles. Maris Astics, chef
at one of Rigas top hotels, Dome, comes here to buy fish: I want
local, local, local. Im here today and Ill be here tomorrow and the
next day. We can buy fish from the sea, from the lake and the river.
This is in no way an idle boast. Under the arched roof, he can
indeed find fresh Baltic cod, Arctic char, wild catfish from the
Daugava river, sturgeon, pike-perch, eels and fresh, pickled or
dried herrings: When people go to the sauna, they take these.
Maris prefers to buy his eels live, skewering and smoking them with
wood shavings that his parents bring
GOURMET TRAVELLER
RIGA
FOOD & TRAVEL
31
GOURMET TRAVELLER
XXXXXX
32
FOOD & TRAVEL
Opposite: ox consomm
at Dikli Palace; Gallery Park
Hotel. Below, from left:
risotto at Biblioteka No 1;
House of the Blackheads;
Valmiermuiza beer; chef
Maris Astics; Neiburgs hotel
from their farm near the Lithuanian border. This bucolic childhood
has definitely shaped him, Maris explains. My life was very different
from chefs who have always lived in town. They dont know how
animals are raised, or what they eat, but I know everything about
them from when they are born until they get to a restaurant kitchen.
We had cows, rabbits, pigs, chickens. Every summer we would
go to the forest for mushrooms and we would hunt deer and elk
or wild boar and catch fish in the lake.
Outside the vast covered market, fruit and vegetable stalls groan
under the weight of berries. To Latvians, fruits of the forest means
just that. In season, wild blueberries, button-sized strawberries or
raspberries, cranberries and cloudberries all carpet the forest floor.
Foraging for these comes second only to mushrooming. The price
of a kilo of chanterelles, only about 3, should be a clue as to
how abundant they are. Latvias government-controlled Forestry
Commission holds annual competitions for fungi hunters, who
scavenge through the night armed with torch and knife.
One of them, lawyer Janis Gutmanis, uses the commissions app
when taking a morning out of his office to unearth mushrooms. It lists
300 edible species, balanced against 30 poisonous ones, but Janis
sticks to what he knows. Today, he says, the weather is too dry;
it should be warm and damp. However, adverse conditions dont
prevent him from gathering enough yellow chanterelles for a meal.
He still has some from the previous season, pickled with juniper
berries, cloves and onion rings. Next month, porcini will be in
season: hell dry those he cant eat fresh, or powder them for soups.
Honey is another passion for Janis. In Ramava, 20 minutes drive
from Riga, he keeps two beehives in a cousins garden. With luck,
they will yield enough honey for family and friends. He belongs to a
generation thats shaping the countrys future. Under communism,
shelves were bare. A typical joke of the time goes: Two Latvians
look at a cloud. One sees the impossible dream; the other sees a
potato. Its the same cloud. When that era was over, people rushed
to the supermarkets that were opening everywhere. Now, they skip
backwards to embrace the nations pre-Soviet customs.
Produce markets are another way of acknowledging this food
heritage. In Rigas Kalnciema quarter a neighbourhood of wooden
clapboard houses, some decaying, some restored and a few
new-builds there is a weekly gastronomic fair. It brings together
characters like Gurta, who slaughters her own pigs and cures the
meat in her chimney; a New Age hemp-seed butter producer; a
man making sea buckthorn berry sweets; and celebrity chef Martins
Ritins, who sells beef burgers from his herd of Highland cattle.
At Straupe Farmers Market in Placis, on the main A3 road
to Valmiera, the malted fruit bread baked in
GOURMET TRAVELLER
RIGA
Where to eat
Prices are for three courses including drinks, unless otherwise stated.
3Pavaru If this is the face of Riga in the making, then bring it on.
Relaxed, clever and tasty, it borrows tricks from other star chefs across
the globe, but never loses sight of its roots. 33. 4 Torna Iela, Jekaba
Kazarmas 2b, 00 371 2037 0537, 3pavari.lv
Biblioteka No 1 Probably Rigas most polished restaurant, it overlooks
a park and the local materials are handled carefully and with precision.
48. 2 Terbatas Iela, 00 371 2022 5000, restoransbiblioteka.lv/en
Ecocatering Telpa Sit with Latvians and barely a foreigner. Young and
hip, with good, unadulterated grub. Brunch from 5; dinner 15, both
excluding drinks. 8 Matisa Iela, 00 371 2037 1170, ecocatering.lv/en/
Laucu Akmens If you can find it on the map (off the A1), stop here for
home cooking thats fresh and unashamedly Latvian. 15. Limbazu Nov,
Skultes Pag, Lauci, 00 371 6406 5423, laucakmens.lv
Valtera Restorans Next to Dome Hotel, this bistro-restaurant has a
modern setting, a dedicated chef-patron and an experienced matre d.
29. 8 Miesnieku Iela, 00 371 2952 9200, valterarestorans.lv/en/
Vincents The flagship of Martins Ritins, who is Rigas best-known chef
and a champion of Slow Food. Ingredients are sourced from local
organic farmers wherever possible and the menu changes each week.
44. Karla Ulmana Gatve 114a, 00 371 6750 0200, vincents.lv/en
Left to right: the Three Brothers houses; a fish platter at Le Dome
FOOD & TRAVEL
33
GOURMET TRAVELLER
TICINO
Where to shop
Opposite, clockwise
from top left: gherkins
at Ecocatering Telpa;
garlic from Central
Market; chef Martins
Ritins (right); Janis
Zilvers family estate;
the banks of the Baltic;
waterside at Zilvers
place; sturgeon at Laucu
Akmens; fishing near
Dikli Palace
Clockwise from top left:

potatoes at Straupe
Farmers Market;
winemaker Janis Zilvers;
Anna Panna; Old Town;
Pannas honey cake
Anna Panna Her bespoke baking courses will teach you how to make
cakes that taste as good as those of her idol, Mary Berry. Enjoy a taste
of Annas cooking with her Layered Honey Cake. annapanna.lv
Desa & Co The shop specialises in charcuterie made from reindeer
meat and its salami stands comparison with the best French, Italian
or Hungarian equivalents. Theres a little bistro for sampling too.
4 Maskavas Iela, 00 371 6721 6186
Pienene Its in the centre of the Old Town and has quality crafted
products, from linen to cosmetics via ceramics, but the quality is
good and the caf a haven of relaxation. 7/9 Kungu Iela (opposite
St Peters Church), 00 371 6721 0400
Riga Black Magic Bar Yes its a cheesy tourist shop, but Riga Black
Balsam is popular in Latvia, especially in winter when locals mix it with
blackcurrant. 10 Kalku Iela, 00 371 6722 2877, blackmagic.lv
34
FOOD & TRAVEL
a wood-fired oven is remarkable. So is the chokeberry jam, the

aged, two-year-old gouda, the buttermilk ice cream, the uniflora
wild raspberry honey, the soured cream, and the cottage cheese.
This renaissance in artisan production isnt confined to food.
Fruit wine makers are also burgeoning. One of them specialises in
apple eiswein; another sells sparkling wine made from birch sap;
Zilver winery really does make a semi-sweet lilac wine as well as
a quince varietal. Beer, too, is innovative and exciting: Labietis
microbrewery flavours its hoppy brews with heather, coriander,
juniper and lemongrass, while Valmiermuiza brewery, based on the
site of a 17th-century Swedish mansion, brews a mahogany
signature beer from malt smoked over wood shavings. It tastes
a little bit like Laphroaig peaty and delicious.
Bread is another staple of Latvian life. But dense, dark rye bread,
its crust the colour of molasses, is more than simply the staff of life.
It links old and new; its a wedding gift. When a couple moves into
a new home, guests bring a loaf as a blessing. Eaten with caraway
cheese, it helps soak up the alcohol downed during Ligo, the
midsummer solstice festivities. When Iveta Ludina bought the
rundown 18th-century Liepupe Manor to convert into a country
house hotel, she installed a wood oven just for the bread. It takes
a day to fire until its hot enough for baking. When I was small,
if I dropped my bread, I had to kiss it, she says.
Such reverence extends to recipes. Rupjmaizes kartojums,
layered bread pudding, has as many versions as there are cooks.
Combine the crumbled rye with berry juice or jam, cream or cottage
cheese, thats it. Latvias celebrity chefs are also bringing their
nations food bang up to date. Martins Sirmais travels the world
as a TV chef but when hes in Latvia he cooks with partners Juris
Dukalkis and Eriks Dreibants at 3Pavaru in the Old Town of Riga.
From splashes of coloured sauces painted on a paper sheet at the
dining table to cooks doubling as waiters, its the nearest thing
Riga has to cutting-edge cuisine. His other restaurant is called
3 Nai (3 Knives). Needless to say, it attracts comments.
Until the recession struck in 2008, Martins says, Russians
financed the restaurants. They came, made designs, hired chefs
and laundered the money or did it for pleasure so they could say
this is mine. After the financial crisis they went back to Moscow.
Martins and his two friends set up shop with second-hand
furniture, a couple of coats of paint and no backers. They had the
key advantage of having worked abroad. He believes that the
current training for youngsters who want to cook professionally falls
short. Colleges still teach the recipes from Soviet times, so there
are no roots for the younger generation.
Martins cuisine relies on the gadgetry and cooking style of
global restaurants the world over: Thermomix, sous-vide packaging
and slow-cooked trickery are in evidence. So its disarming when
he shakes a siphon like a barista and shoots frothy crab bisque
over cod and scallops for a customer, or spoons hemp-seed
dressing over slices of goats cheese.
At Laucu Akmens, an hour from the city, the fisherman has just brought some pike-perch
and its fried whole with parsnips. A buttery slab of sturgeon is lightly browned and meaty
FOOD & TRAVEL
35
Food Glossary
Nearly all menus are available in
English and most Latvians study
the language at school. Youll buy
bread, mushrooms or berries at
the markets on appearance, so
theres no need to worry about
having the correct pronunciation.
Aronijas Chokeberries
Auksta zupa Translates as cold
soup but usually means beetroot
with gherkin, dill and kefir
Avenes Raspberries
Erkskogas Gooseberries
Janogas Redcurrants
Lacenes Cloudberries
Medus kuka Classic honey

cake, with a soured cream and
walnut filling, between five thin
layers of honey-flavoured sponge
Rupjmaizes kartojums
Speciality dessert of crumbled

rye bread with berry juices or
jam, cream or cottage cheese
Saldskaba Sourdough rye
bread, often flavoured with
caraway seeds
Siers cheese Sour cheese, also
containing caraway, traditionally
eaten during the festival of Jani
Upenes Blackcurrants
Zemenes Strawberries
Above: locals enjoying the calming environs of Bastejkalna park.

Below: storm clouds roll across a Latvian wheatfield
Opposite, clockwise
from top left:
chanterelles at
Ecocatering Telpa;
Janis Gutmanis gets his
hands on the honey;
the governments
mushrooming app;
foraging in the forest;
mushrooms near Riga;
chanterelles served with
steak at Valtera
Dining out in Latvia can reveal eclectic edible surprises: poached

strawberries with roast veal, or rye waffles with caviar-filled pockets.
Ecocatering Telpa uses organic ingredients grown on local farms
and the restaurant is among the most palatable of this new wave.
The entrance is an adventure in itself, taking you through a courtyard
and above a bicycle repair shop.
The dining area (open in summer) is a wooden gallery, clamped
to the side of the building. Before it opens to the public, the kitchen
prepares and delivers organic food to kindergarten. Its 5 brunch is
self-service and comes with delicious salads like sticky caramelised
onions mixed with berries or wild mushrooms, new potatoes baked
in their skins with herbs, and the best-ever salted cucumber. On the
table is one bowl of tiny carrots and another of gooseberries.
Further afield, finding Laucu Akmens is a test without sat-nav. An
hour from the city, its then 2km along a track to a campsite and
guesthouse by a sandy beach. Here they serve chilled beetroot soup
made with kefir, dill and pickled gherkin. This is practically Latvias
national dish. It certainly deserves to be. The fisherman has just
brought some pike-perch and its dished up fried whole with roasted
parsnips. A buttery slab of sturgeon is lightly browned and meaty.
Surprisingly, Latvias rollercoaster economy has had a positive
effect on the modern mindset. Although the recession wiped out
20 per cent of the economy, recovery has been dramatic. The
traditional outlets remain, such as the Black Magic Bar, selling the
almost medicinal herbal liqueur Riga Black Balsam to tourists, but
as a counterpoint to these there are sleek caf-shops like Pienene,
where fresh herb teas and wild berry smoothies sell alongside
buckwheat pillows and edible-sounding cosmetics All day and
night cream with birch and blueberry extracts.
This new era has spawned a new breed of entrepreneurs. Anna
Panna describes herself as a graduate of the YouTube academy.
Daughter of a famous designer, she gives bespoke cookery
courses on Latvian baking from a studio kitchen (her layered honey
cake alone deserves a feature). Desa & Co, a bistro-charcuterie in
a restored warehouse abutting the Daugava, is the retail outlet of a
reindeer rancher, while winemaker Janis Zilvers admits that before
the downturn he was planning a career in a cushy office job. Rigans
learn fast, an essential skill for survivors. Martins Sirmais isnt joking
when he says: My son is six and already knows more about the
ingredients in the kitchen than I did when I was 16. They also share
a united we stand mentality. If the 3Pavaru runs out of salt (it can
happen), Maris Astics at Dome helps out.
This work in progress approach is reflected in a local proverbial
saying: When Riga is completed, it will fall into the Daugava. Like
its architecture, where Hanseatic gothic spires jostle with High
Dutch townhouses and art nouveau apartment blocks, the city is
restless and changing. Someone will soon coin the phrase New
Baltic Cuisine. It will probably be an astute Latvian chef.
Michael Raffael and Slawek Kozdras travelled courtesy of Latvian
Tourism Development Agency. For more details, see latvia.travel
36
FOOD & TRAVEL
Wild blueberries, strawberries, raspberries and cloudberries all carpet the forest. Foraging
for these comes second only to mushrooming; fungi hunters scavenge through the night
FOOD & TRAVEL
37
Left to right:
Old Town
spires;
youthful
musicians;
Rigas Town
Hall Square
Markets
Kalnciema Food fair Slow Food Riga sets out its stall every Saturday in
this district with an eclectic range of producers. The best bread in Riga is
on sale here, and there are titbits, such as hemp butter, worth discovering.
Riga Central Market Open daily, this famed market has up to 3,000
stalls say the guide books but whos counting? In summer, the area
outside is a riot of scents with some of the worlds finest fruit on display.
Straupe Farmers Market Held at Placis (located on the A3, 30 minutes
from the capital) every Sunday, this is a treasure trove of excellent produce
and some damn good ingredients. Worth the trip.
Above: shelf life in

Liepupe Manors kitchen;
accommodation at
Neiburgs. Left: the
rail bridge over
the Daugava
Where to stay
Dikli Palace A country house reminiscent of a hunting lodge that styles
itself as a palace. Its a romantic place to escape to, and the breakfasts,
especially the potato and cottage cheese pancakes, are excellent. Doubles
from 40. Dikli, Koceni, 00 371 6420 7480, diklupils.lv
Dome Hotel A Relais & Chteaux hotel with tasteful rooms and an
excellent restaurant, Le Dome. The latter is overseen by Maris Astics,
whose cooking, especially the fish, is generous, rustic and prepared
from the best produce that Latvia can offer. Doubles from 200.
4 Miesnieku Iela, 00 371 6750 9010, domehotel.lv
Gallery Park Hotel This glitzy, five-star hotel has many rooms and
suites decorated in a Napoleon III style, while others feature a contemporary
Italian design. Doubles from 114. 7 Krisjana Valdemara Iela, 00 371
6733 8830, galleryparkhotel.com
Liepupe Manor If you want to learn how to prepare Latvian bread in
cosseted surroundings, this small chateau is the place to do it. Comfortable
rooms and genuine antiques all around. The wine cellar is beautiful.
Doubles from 73. Liepupe Village, 00 371 6728 9730, liepupesmuiza.lv
Neiburgs A chic Old Town hotel that is minimalist, modern and friendly.
Doubles from 112. 25/27 Jaun Iela, 00 371 6711 5522, neiburgs.com
38
FOOD & TRAVEL
Liepupe Manor is a place created with

love and we welcome you with open arms!
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Liepupe village, Liepupe Ls
Latvia
Phone: ,
E-mail: info@liepupehotel.com
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StarPic
Want to create dinners with real panache? Then ask

the experts. Three-Michelin-starred chef Anne-Sophie Pic
shows how to make her stunning recipes without the fuss
SARDINE RILLETTES
WITH WHISKY AND
CAULIFLOWER CREAM
This recipe is quick yet
sophisticated. Combining
sardines with cauliflower
is unique and the whisky
adds a punch.
F&T SPIRIT MATCH
Mellow, peaty, smoky and
smooth whisky with just two
ice cubes (eg Distillers
Edition, Lagavulin)
40
FOOD & TRAVEL
aking a dish means using all your senses.

It must look beautiful, smell wonderful
and make the most of all the ingredients
and their textures. Cooking for those we love is
important, and equally so for ourselves to make
every meal or taste a pleasure, to take the time
to cook properly, to look after ourselves. Theres
nothing more perfect than relaxing around a
beautifully laid table with good friends, to enjoy
your efforts. Yet superb presentation doesnt always
have to mean fiddly, time-consuming techniques.
If you can find an unexpected spice or twist,
or make steps in advance, youll have a lot more
time to spend with the people who matter.
ENTERTAINING
JELLIED HAM AND PARSLEY TERRINE
Another classic I have resurrected. Starting
with a really good-quality cooked ham hock
from the butcher, I make a terrine that is set
in a mushroom jelly and sharpened with
a note of acidity. I love the textural contrast
between the slightly chewy ham and the
jelly, which starts off firm then melts into
the palate, releasing notes of mushroom,
caper and cornichon. You could vary this by
using herbs or red onion pickles.
F&T WINE MATCH Flamboyant
and bright US pinot noir (eg 2012
Bien Nacido, Au Bon Climat)
FOOD & TRAVEL
41
MACKEREL
ESCABECHE
Escabeche is a highly
flavoured marinade: the
aniseed of fennel, the
freshness of coriander,
the sweet acidity of white
balsamic vinegar, the
sharpness of lemon,
the dry fruitiness of white
wine and the scent of
thyme and bay. This
intense reduction of
natural flavours, which can
be varied infinitely,
will make the mackerel
fillets (try to find quite
small ones) shine brilliantly.
IN SEASON
F&T WINE MATCH

Bone-dry, light sherry with
roasted nuts and candied
peel notes (eg Manzanilla
Papirusa, Lustau)
DUCK LIVER WITH

SEARED MELON
Ive always thought that
almonds and melon go well
together, which is why I came
up with this sweet-savoury
recipe. The melon adds
a fruity sweetness that makes
all the difference. Searing
that quickly over a high heat,
without really cooking it,
gives a completely
unexpected flavour.
F&T WINE MATCH
Luscious, peach, lemon and
apple notes Italian pinot
bianco (eg 2011 Terlaner
Classico, Cantina Terlano)
VEGETABLE TART WITH

YOUNG PARMESAN CREAM
This is one of my signature dishes.
Here, made with spring vegetables,
it is a riot of colour and full
of fresh greenery. You can adapt
it according to the season.
F&T WINE MATCH Rened, with
cherries and herbal undertones
Portuguese red (eg 2010 Douro
Tinto Reserva, Quinta de la Rosa)
42
FOOD & TRAVEL
ENTERTAINING
FOOD & TRAVEL
43
MELBA TOAST WITH LARDO DI

COLONNATA AND COMTE CHEESE
The marriage of lardo and Comt is
unusual but the result is pure, crunchy
deliciousness. You need to buy a
dense white loaf, nothing full of holes,
to make it easy to cut very thin slices
of bread. You could also try this with
other combinations of fatty meats and
cheese, like bacon with Gruyre.
F&T WINE MATCH Rich, herbaceous,
spicy, fruity Tuscan sangiovese (eg 2009
Brunello di Montalcino, Caparzo)
FILLET OF MARINATED SALMON

WITH PETITS POIS AND
WASABI MOUSSELINE
In this recipe, the salmon is cooked
in oil in the same way as for confit,
a method that cooks the flesh evenly
at a low temperature, leaving it
incredibly soft. Dont worry that the
fish will become too oily; the oil
doesnt soak into it.
F&T WINE MATCH Viscous, inty,
mineral avours with peach, honey and
spice US marsanne (eg 2010 Santa
Ynez Valley, Qup Winery)
RECIPES
ON PAGE
RECIPES
STARTSTART
ON PAGE
113 119
RECIPES AND PHOTOGRAPHS TAKEN
FROM SCOOK: THE COMPLETE
COOKERY COURSE BY ANNE-SOPHIE
PIC, PHOTOGRAPHY BY MICHAEL
ROULIER (JACQUI SMALL, 40). TO BUY
THE BOOK AT A SPECIAL PRICE, TURN
TO READER OFFERS ON PAGE 106.
44
FOOD & TRAVEL
BEETROOT SALAD WITH ARABICA COFFEE SALT

This salad is a winning combination of sweet and bitter.
Different types of beetroot, with varying colours and
contrasting textures, some cooked and some raw, are
layered together and then dressed with coffee salt. The
result: a beautiful, colourful, easy and elegant dish.
ENTERTAINING
F&T BEER MATCH Dark, roasted avours with

real coffee North Yorkshire stout (eg Bad Seed
Espresso Stout, Bad Seed Brewery)
FOOD & TRAVEL
45
FOOD FOCUS
Gorging on gumbo, sourcing superb skate and plating

up the bounty of the sea, former MasterChef winner
Mat Follas nets some favourites for you to try
have lived the wild life for as long as I can remember. When we
were young my brother and I would swim in a nearby river, and
follow eel trails across the grass on dewy mornings. As the eels
were seeking new water, the unlucky ones would be caught and,
in a scene reminiscent of Lord of the Flies, would lose their heads
and skin and become a barbecue morsel for us.
This was how I spent my formative years in New Zealand. In
my early teens we moved to Auckland for a while and lived close
to the sea. I had an old inated inner tube that Id sit in and oat
around under my local wharf, dodging peoples shing lines. Id
hunt for shing lures stuck on rocks to sell to the shermen and
would happily gorge on fresh mussels from the wharf piles as
I explored. Walks on the beach nearby were to nd pipis (native
clams) and cockles, taken home to be cooked and eaten with
some malt vinegar, a food I still love today.
More than a few years on, my wife and I settled in Dorset,
where I rediscovered my love of diving. Cooking had always
been a hobby, but became a passion because I now had a ready
audience of family and friends and a free supply of wonderful
seafood and produce all around me. I opened The Wild Garlic
in Beaminster, bringing some of the tastes of my youth into the
kitchen. Seafood avours vary depending on their seasons, where
theyve been caught and the age of the sh, so dont feel you
must follow the recipe measurements religiously.
46
FOOD & TRAVEL
SKATE WITH BEURRE NOISETTE

When I shed as a kid, I used to throw rays back
as a nuisance sh if only I knew then how
amazing they would taste. This dish features highly
on my meals to eat before you die. Its just so
simple, so full of avour perfection on a plate. You
could halve the wing and add a side of potatoes or
vegetables but I always want a whole wing to myself.
The skill here is in making the butter sauce; achieving
the hazelnut aroma and avour and stopping it from
overcooking and becoming acrid.
F&T SPIRIT MATCH Rich and unique vintage
Japanese sake (eg 2008 Junmai Daiginjo
Special, Masuizumi)
HALIBUT STEAK WITH CIDER CREAM SAUCE,

CRACKLING AND MASH
This recipe is a real crowd pleaser; the combination of the
sharpness of cider and the meatiness of a halibut steak work
together perfectly. I add a nice mash and a stick of perfect
pork crackling to balance the textures and to add a hit of
saltiness, too. This dish is one to be savoured on a special
occasion and enjoyed for all its indulgence.
F&T WINE MATCH Creamy and full French chardonnay
blend (eg 2009 Chteau Chalon, Domaine Macle)
FOOD & TRAVEL
47
FOOD FOCUS
TERIYAKI SALMON
Delicious and incredibly simple to make, Teriyaki also stores
for weeks. The word refers to the sugar glaze (teri) and the
cooking method of grilling the meat (yaki), so the idea is to
cook the sh in the sauce until it has reduced to a tasty, sticky
coating. This works well with most sh, though take care to
use only a medium or low heat because the sauce can catch
and burn easily due to the high sugar content.
F&T WINE MATCH Spicy and fruity USA pinot noir
(eg 2012 O.P.P. Oregogne, Mouton Noir)
48
FOOD & TRAVEL
PRAWN DOGS WITH

SEAFOOD KETCHUP
How can any dish called prawn
dogs not be fun? Use a soft nger
roll to make a tasty alternative to the
usual sausage-in-a-bun hotdog.
I love using a dry rub of spices and
this is a fairly mild heat so do adjust
the spicing and chilli to suit. Always
use the largest prawns you can buy
and keep the heads and shells to
make the ketchup base.
F&T WINE MATCH
Slightly sweet and aromatic German
riesling (eg 2011 Egon Mller)
FOOD & TRAVEL
49
FOOD FOCUS
SEAFOOD GUMBO
Gumbo is the state dish of Louisiana and as such
comes with much history and pride. A fusion of French,
Spanish, African and Native American cuisines, its a real
reection of Louisianas wonderful culture. There are many
ways to cook gumbo, meaning you can feel free to experiment.
I sometimes like to add chorizo to give it a smoky depth of avour
but this can be left out for a lighter version. You can use the same
base recipe with chicken rather than sh stock for a meat gumbo.
The key avour comes from making a roux from oil and our, okra
and the Holy Trinity of onion, celery and green pepper.
F&T WINE MATCH Spicy and sexy Croatian
plavac mali (eg 2011 Sv Roko, Saints Hills)
RECIPES AND
PHOTOGRAPHS
TAKEN FROM FISH
BY MAT FOLLAS,
PHOTOGRAPHY
BY STEVE PAINTER.
(RYLAND PETERS &
SMALL, 19.99). TO BUY
THE BOOK AT A SPECIAL
PRICE, TURN TO READER
OFFERS ON PAGE 106.
STARGAZY PIE
This is a Cornish dish
normally made with pilchards.
The unique feature here is
that the sh heads protrude
through the pastry crust, so
they appear to be gazing
skyward at the stars. This
also allows the oils from the
sh that are released during
cooking to ow back into the
pie for added avour.
F&T WINE MATCH
Creamy and rich South
African chardonnay (eg
2012 Hamilton Russell)
FOOD & TRAVEL
51
FOOD FOR FRIENDS
Irelands array of ingredients

have long inspired TV cook
Clodagh McKenna, who
makes modern dishes with
a taste of home
DILLISK RAVIOLI
OF IRISH SMOKED
SALMON AND
GOATS CHEESE WITH
WATERCRESS PESTO
The smokiness of salmon,
creaminess of goats cheese
and peppery pesto are tastes
that work so well together. Dillisk,
also known as dulse, is a red alga
that holds a subtle avour of the sea.
Using dillisk pasta for the ravioli takes
this dish to the next level.
F&T WINE MATCH
Classic cherry and citrus
with good acidity champagne
(eg NV Blanc de Noirs Grand
Cru, Eric Rodez)
Emerald
hat is modern Irish cuisine? For

me, it can be summed up as
clean-tasting, fresh dishes using
light, subtle avours to highlight the main
ingredients, whether they are fresh sh, aged
beef, mountain lamb or herb-infused creamy
sauces and butter. Wild, foraged foods, such
as nettles, samphire, elderowers and so on
have become commonplace in Irish cuisine.
Our island has a rugged western coastline
that is sprayed with Atlantic Ocean waves
every day, salting the pastures and giving
us some of the most fantastic food in the world.
Where else can you drive along a road and
be stopped by sheep crossing in front of you,
while wild blackberries
SMILES
GRAVLAX WITH DILL
AND JUNIPER BERRIES
Gravlax is such a beautiful dish. I served
this at a pop-up dinner that I held in New
Yorks Whitney Museum for St Patricks
Day. I was lucky enough to nd an artisan
poitn that had been made in Brooklyn,
so I added 2 tablespoons of that to the
cure you could add whiskey,
if you wish. You can also substitute
honey for the caster sugar in the cure,
which gives a richer avour.
F&T WINE MATCH
Intense, elegant, fruit and owers fresh
Italian montepulciano (eg 2013 Marche
Rosato Pinko Nero, Angeli di Varano)
52
FOOD & TRAVEL
FOOD & TRAVEL
53
SLOW-ROASTED LAMB SHANKS

WITH CREAMY GINGER POTATOES
Lamb shanks, when cooked slowly on a low heat, become
so tender and juicy. You do need to prop them with lots of
avoursome ingredients, and I love this combination of sweet
and spicy cinnamon, chilli, honey and Marsala for mine. The
ginger creamy potatoes add soft texture and a subtle zing.
F&T WINE MATCH Rich, spicy, complex black fruit, peony
and mineral notes Syrian red (eg 2007 Domaine de Bargylus)
54
FOOD & TRAVEL
tumble out of the hedgerows on either

side and samphire and seaweeds
scatter nearby shores? Beautiful milk,
cream, butter, cheeses and meat
are provided by grazing animals, and
fantastic seafood comes straight from
the clean tidal waters.
The Irish kitchen and the Irish palate
have evolved so much over the past
ten years or so. My inuences are
pulled from the wonderful places
I have visited and the ingredients
of the country I call home. When I
lived in Italy and France, I discovered
many fantastic recipes, and they
became a part of my Irish kitchen
when I returned home. Even the most
traditional of dishes have developed
over time, becoming part of the fabric
of modern Ireland.
You see, in Ireland, life revolves
around the kitchen. Whether its cups
of tea and a piece of cake hot from
the range, a family supper, Sunday
lunch, or our famed Irish breakfast,
life happens over a simmering pot.
FOOD FOR FRIENDS
FREE-RANGE PORK
WITH APPLE, CHERRY
AND SAGE STUFFING
AND APPLE CRISPS
Sundays were made for this.
Slow-roasted juicy pork stuffed
with apple, cherries and sage
to collect the fabulous avours
of the meat while roasting. You
could substitute dates for the
cherries if you wish, or use
at-leaf parsley instead of sage
for a more peppery avour.
The apple crisps are simple to
make and add a lovely texture.
F&T WINE MATCH
Savoury raspberry and violet
with leather and mineral
notes Tuscan sangiovese
(eg 2009 Flaccianello
delle Pieve, Fontodi)
APPLE AND LAVENDER TOPLESS TART

This tart looks so pretty with the caramelised
apples glimmering up at you. The lavender
creates a deep, aromatic avour, which is
so good with the sweet apples.
F&T WINE MATCH Apple, fennel and white
pepper with pear Austrian muscat (eg 2013
Muskat Ottonel Auslese, Hans Tschida)
FOOD & TRAVEL
55
SALTED CARAMEL WHISKEY BREAD

AND BUTTER PUDDING WITH RAISINS
This is so simple to make and great for using up
stale bread. The salted caramel whiskey sauce
is addictive and could be poured over ice cream
for an Irish sundae. This can be
made up to a day in advance and
warmed in the oven before serving.
F&T SPIRIT MATCH Smooth
marmalade and crushed
almond Japanese malt whisky
(eg Hibiki 12, Suntory)

RECIPES AND PHOTOGRAPHS TAKEN
FROM CLODAGHS IRISH KITCHEN BY
CLODAGH MCKENNA, PHOTOGRAPHY
BY TARA FISHER (KYLE BOOKS, 19.99).
TO BUY THE BOOK AT A SPECIAL PRICE,
TURN TO READER OFFERS ON PAGE 106.
56
FOOD & TRAVEL
Serving
authentic
Italian rice
to the
world
since1856
Italians are known for being passionate about their food,

insisting on only the highest possible quality ingredients.
And that helps explain why Riso Gallo are the Number
One brand in the Italian rice market. Grown in the World
famous Po Valley (also known as 'Italy's Risotto Bowl'),
Riso Gallo benefits from an unbeatable combination of
perfect climate, ideal soil type and the region's many
natural advantages - for example, the plants are fed by icy clear Alpine water
which flows from the mountains.
You simply cannot get a more authentic - or delicious - Italian rice.
The cockerel that you see on all Riso Gallo products is an important part of
our history. In the early days, the company used animal symbols to identify
different rice varieties: The Cockerel was associated with best quality rice
and soon became the symbol of the company itself.
But despite our long tradition of excellence which dates back more than 155
years, Riso Gallo are firmly committed to meeting the demands of the future.
Now run by the sixth generation of the founders' family we continue to
innovate. Evidence of this can be found with new ranges and line extensions
being recently added in response to a need for quality
food that is quick to prepare.
So thanks to Riso Gallo, you no longer have to go to
Italy to find authentic Italian risotto. We offer a wide
range, covering everything from traditional risotto
rices, Risotto Pronto (a 12 minute risotto), Risotto
Expresso (a two-minute risotto), Risotto Box (a 1 min.
30 sec.risotto), rice specialities to the gluten-free
Pasta 3 cereali, now exported to 74 countries.
info@risogallo.com www.risogallo.com
Use a little imagination and the possibilities

for healthy, feel-good food are almost
endless, says Nicola Graimes, whose
ideas are easy on the eye and palate
SCALLOP AND GREEN PAPAYA SALAD

WITH LEMONGRASS DRESSING
Inspired by the avours of Thailand, this light and zingy
salad is topped with seared scallops here, but would
work equally well with other types of seafood such as salmon,
sea bass, crab, king prawns or squid. If you cant nd green
papaya, you could use green-eshed melon instead.
F&T WINE MATCH Crisp, peppery, citrus and
green apple Austrian grner veltliner (eg 2012 Hinter
der Burg, Federspiel, Weingut Prager)
58
FOOD & TRAVEL
appily, the days are long gone when the most

exotic salad leaf available to buy was the crisp
iceberg lettuce. Now were spoilt for choice,
with all kinds of leaves from peppery mizuna and
bitter-tasting frise to spicy watercress and lemony,
sharp sorrel. A salad of soft, mild butterhead lettuce
dressed simply in extra virgin olive oil and a
sprinkling of sea salt, and perhaps a
squeeze of lemon juice, is a simple
pleasure. However, when the
occasion arises, its good
to step it up a gear and
experiment with textures,
tastes and colours.
FOOD FOCUS
PARMA HAM, PEAR AND
STEM GINGER SALAD
The combination of salty,
crisp Italian air-dried ham
with sweet, soft pear
and a zing from the stem
ginger makes this quite a
sophisticated salad, perfect
for a special occasion or
just as an appetiser.
F&T WINE MATCH
Rened, spicy
and full-bodied
Californian
chardonnay (eg
2010 Russian
River Valley,
Rochiolo)
FOOD & TRAVEL
59
FATTOUSH WITH
SPICED ALMONDS
This twist on the popular
Lebanese salad is
made with vibrant, crisp
vegetables in an orangey
pistachio oil dressing.
Instead of the more regular
addition of crisp toasted
pitta bread, the salad
is topped with smoked
paprika-roasted almonds.
If you cant nd pistachio
oil, simply increase the
quantity of olive oil.
F&T WINE MATCH
Concentrated, rich,
white owers and
subtle oak Lebanese
white (eg 2011
Chteau Marsyas)
60
FOOD & TRAVEL
KAMUT WITH
CHERMOULA DRESSING
F&T WINE MATCH
Round and spicy
Californian zinfandel
(eg 2010 Lytton Springs,
Ridge Vineyards)
FOOD & TRAVEL
61
OSSAU IRATY, ASPARAGUS

AND CROUTON SALAD
Ossau Iraty is a French semihard sheeps cheese with a
nutty taste and creamy texture
that complements the earthy
beetroot in this salad. Parmesan,
Gruyre and emmental also
work well, if you prefer.
F&T WINE MATCH Complex,
dark fruit and earthy stone
French pinot noir (eg 2010
Santenay Les Charmes,
Domaine Bachelet-Monnot)
RECIPES AND PHOTOGRAPHS
TAKEN FROM THE SALAD
BOWL BY NICOLA GRAIMES,
PHOTOGRAPHY BY MATT
RUSSELL (RYLAND PETERS
& SMALL, 14.99). TO BUY
THE BOOK AT A SPECIAL PRICE,
TURN TO READER OFFERS
ON PAGE 106.
62
FOOD & TRAVEL
FOOD FOCUS
HONEY-ROASTED
CARROTS AND SEEDS
WITH CITRUS CREAM
F&T WINE MATCH
Fresh, spicy and pungent
with mineral, ginger,
pineapple and ower
notes German riesling
(eg 2010 F E Trimbach)
FOOD & TRAVEL
63
Devon
is a
place on
Cheesemakers, cider
slurpers, fishermen and
slow-food saviours all call
North Devon home, as Marc Millon
finds out on a VW Camper road
trip visiting its choicest cuts
PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARK PARREN TAYLOR
Lynmouth is one of North

Devons most picturesque
harbours and has inspired
artists for centuries
64
FOOD & TRAVEL
earth
GOURMET TRAVELLER
NORTH DEVON
FOOD & TRAVEL
65
GOURMET TRAVELLER
XXXXXX
Left to right:
Victoria Cranfields
lemon and rose
petal marmalade;
the wild beauty
of Saunton
Sands. Opposite,
clockwise from top
left: Godminster
brie and charcuterie
at The Exmoor
Beastro; Saunton
Sands; Brixham
soused herrings at
The Swan; sunset
in Woolacombe
as seen from the
VW Camper van
orth Devon is the sort of place you want to meander through,

explore and discover at a slow pace, perhaps in a vintage
VW Camper. Why not? Ours is bright red and dates from
1971. This classic beaut takes us on a journey along high coastal
roads that look across the Bristol Channel to Wales, down lanes
that are narrow, winding, sometimes outrageously steep, lined with
high, overgrown hedgerows; up climbs that lead to the bare and
majestic stretches of Exmoor then plunge into valleys that are
lush and almost sub-tropical. Along those roads and in a vehicle
such as ours, it is simply impossible not to drive lightly.
We dont do hurry here, says Dan the Fishman, when we arrive
to meet him at Appledores historic harbour more than an hour late.
I was in Plymouth last week and it felt so strange. Everyone was
rushing! An ex-lifeboatman, Dan is not only a fisherman and
fishmonger, selling from his barrow at farmers markets and
festivals, but he has also become an unofficial ambassador for
North Devons sustainable fish. This means teaching children and
adults how to understand, value and cook the harvest.
Many people in cities have lost the ability to taste real food. Its
all that rushing about. They have never had the chance to enjoy fish
virtually straight from day boats or to savour grass-fed meat reared
slowly on a farm. Coming to North Devon is an opportunity for
people to reconnect with where real food comes from, he says.
North Devon has always been a popular destination. People have
been coming here for centuries to experience the remote beauty
of places like Lynmouth and Combe Martin. Indeed, the poets
Coleridge and Wordsworth walked about 50km to reach the
Valley of Rocks in 1797, its grandeur inspiring the 18th-century
Romantic Period in art and literature. Ever since, the area has
continued to attract visitors.
It is only in recent years, however, that people have come here
to discover an array of outstanding food and drink. Just north of
Barnstaple, we visit Broomhill Art Hotel, in a lush, wooded valley,
a beautiful venue for the largest permanent
66
FOOD & TRAVEL
Where to stay
Broomhill Art Hotel This quirky hotel not far from Barnstaple is set
within its own sculpture garden and is decorated with works by local
artists. Lovers of art and nature come here to enjoy tranquillity as
well as excellent local food served in the Terra Madre Restaurant
(see Where to Eat). Rooms are clean, individually and originally
furnished, and reasonably priced. Doubles from 75. Muddiford
Road, Barnstaple, 01271 850262, broomhillart.co.uk
Hunters Inn Hidden off the A39 near the sea, this surprisingly large
inn resembles a Swiss chalet. Open since 1824, guests have
included poets, composers and prime ministers. The pub itself has
own-brewed ales, while the restaurant serves homely foods, mainly
from locally sourced ingredients. Doubles from 100. Heddon
Valley, Exmoor, 01598 763230, thehuntersinnexmoor.co.uk
Kentisbury Grange This beautifully restored Victorian manor on
the edge of Exmoor has recently gone up a gourmet notch with the
launch of The Coach House restaurant by two-Michelin-starred chef
Michael Caines. The chic hotel is furnished tastefully with antiques
and original artwork. Doubles from 125. Kentisbury, Barnstaple,
01271 882295, kentisburygrange.com
Saunton Sands Hotel This elegant art deco hotel is poised like a
gleaming white ocean liner, overlooking North Devons best beaches.
While the rooms are modern and well-equipped, service is oldfashioned in the best sense (there is a voluntary dress code for
dinner, for example). This is a grand old hotel that harks back to
another era, a lovely place to visit and stay. Doubles from 145.
Saunton, near Braunton, 01271 890212, sauntonsands.co.uk
Stoodleigh Court Coach House B&B A stylish and modern
luxury bed & breakfast set in a remote and incredibly peaceful
corner of mid-Devon. Rosey and Steve are welcoming hosts and
the farmhouse breakfast, made with ingredients from neighbouring
farms, is outstanding. Doubles from 90. Stoodleigh, Tiverton,
01398 351206, stoodleighcourtcoachhousebandb.co.uk
Many people in cities have lost the ability to taste real food. They have
never had the chance to enjoy fish virtually straight from day boats or
to savour grass-fed meat, reared slowly on a farm
HOW TO GET ABOUT

OConnors Campers offers vintage VW Campers dating mainly from the
Sixties and Seventies, ideal for exploring the lovely lanes of North Devon at
a slower pace. It takes a little while to get the hang of driving these classic
rides, but they are such a fun way to get around that it is more than worth
it. Available for hire by the week, Monday to Friday, or for a long weekend.
Prices start from 425. Highlands, Old Road, High Street, Okehampton,
01837 659599, oconnorscampers.co.uk
FOOD & TRAVEL
67
68
FOOD & TRAVEL
GOURMET TRAVELLER
NORTH DEVON
Opposite page, from

top left: Stoodleigh
Court breakfast;
Tiverton; Alex and
Fiona of The
Exmoor Beastro;
Appledore;
charcuterie at
Broomhill Art Hotel;
NC @ EX34;
Lynmouth; Noel
Corston; ribs at The
Exmoor Beastro.
This page, from left:
its interior; lamb at
Tarr Farm Inn;
Lynmouth; tapas
at Broomhill
Here, more than elsewhere, there is a strong sense of community, where

people support each other and the local economy
collection of contemporary art and sculpture in the South West.
It seems fitting that the award-winning kitchen of Terra Madre
Restaurant has based itself on the philosophy of Slow Food, the
Italian-born movement that celebrates food that is good, clean
and fair. Sitting on the terrace overlooking the sculpture park, we
enjoy a lunch of West Country tapas: delicate, home-cured salmon
on a bed of salad leaves and flowers picked from the garden;
honey-glazed Devon goats cheese on a seasonal vegetable stew;
Lundy crab bisque; organic pork meatballs; and local cold-smoked
trout and prawn croquetas. Its delicious and informal food that is
simple and sophisticated, like the region itself.
In Barnstaple, North Devons main town, we discover the Pannier
Market, an impressive vaulted hall built in 1855 and so named
because people from surrounding farms and smallholdings used
to come here to sell their vegetables from wicker panniers. The
Pannier Market is still in operation every day, but no longer only for
food. Nearby Butchers Row once used to house more than 33
butchers selling meat from local farms. Today, just one DA Gratton
remains. How did this small market town ever support so many
butchers, I wonder? Before supermarkets, Im told, matter-of-factly.
Here, more than elsewhere, there is a strong sense of community
where people support each other and the local economy. At Barton
Farm Dairy, we meet Gary and Linda Wright, who work a dairy herd
of 130 mainly Holstein and Jersey cattle.
There is a real interest in knowing where food comes from,
says Gary, handing me a glass of raw milk virtually straight from the
cow. People here are turning away from the supermarkets. I take
a deep swallow: rich, creamy milk that leaves you with a moustache
is a forgotten taste that is just so good. Linda also uses this
unpasteurised milk to produce wonderful soft cheeses such as
creamy Kentisbury Down and a very mild, fresh Barton Blue.
Customers come direct to the dairy, helping themselves and leaving
the money in an honesty box.
At the Old Rectory in nearby East Down, Victoria Cranfield uses
the bounty from her rather wild garden and surrounding fields to
produce an astonishing array of handmade jams, jellies, chutneys
and pickles. A former lawyer, Victoria first came to East Down for
holidays as a child. As we walk in the field, she points out not only
fruit, flowers and plants but also the incredible biodiversity of

a pesticide-free microclimate. Listen to the field, she instructs. You
can taste it in my jams, just as you can taste the smells.
Indeed, her apple and rose petal conserve evokes the intense
scent of roses; lemon and horseradish marmalade is pungent and
sharp. Victoria makes marmalades known as proper (Seville
Orange, Pink Grapefruit) or improper (Blood Orange and Espresso
won gold at this years World Marmalade Festival). The Chocolate
Splattered Marmalade is my homage to Jackson Pollock. My
guess is that it is the improper that interests Victoria more. In this
overgrown paradise, she is having fun.
Travel information
GETTING THERE
First Great Western operates trains from London Paddington to
Barnstaple (the furthest point accessible by train), via Exeter St Davids,

with a journey time of about 4 hours. firstgreatwestern.co.uk
National Express runs a regular coach service that departs from
Londons Victoria Coach Station. Barnstaple can be reached in about
5 hours 30 minutes. nationalexpress.com
RESOURCES
Visit Devon is the official tourist board, offering a wealth of information
about the county, including what to see, where to stay, suggestions for
eating and drinking and cycling routes and walks. visitdevon.co.uk
A Taste of Devon is a useful resource for food lovers, covering the
best farmers markets, artisan producers, shops and restaurants that
you must try on your trip. atasteofdevon.co.uk
FURTHER READING
North Devon & Exmoor (Bradt Travel Guides, 7.99). This new book
lifts the lid on secret spots in Devon, with out-of-the-way places, local
characters and a guide to sustainable tourism.
Tarka the Otter by Henry Williamson (Puffin Modern Classics, 6.99).
First published in 1927, this novel follows the life of Tarka amid his
natural habitat of the Taw and Torridge rivers in North Devon.
FOOD & TRAVEL
69
GOURMET TRAVELLER
XXXXXX
Dan is not only

a fisherman and
fishmonger, selling
from his barrow at
farmers markets
and festivals, but he
has also become an
unofficial ambassador
for North Devons
sustainable fish
Enjoyment seems to be a real motivation for people living and

working in the region. Chef Noel Corston used to come to Croyde
to surf. Learning to chef was a way to travel the world and nurture
his passion. He met his wife while in Mexico and the couple
returned to North Devon, opening The Courtyard restaurant in
Woolacombe more than a decade ago. In 2012, he relaunched it
as NC @ EX34, serving a seven-course tasting menu at dinner.
Noels aim is to express the unique flavour of North Devons
protected Unesco Biosphere Reserve, working directly with farmers,
fishermen, foragers and hunters to create food that is simply
stunning. The menus may simply list the main ingredients, but the
cooking is anything but spartan.
Red Ruby, for example, consists of perfectly grilled Red Ruby
feather steak, confit of shoulder, and lightly poached bone marrow
with local vegetables: a parsnip pure, baby carrots and broccoli,
and sharp homemade choucroute made from local cabbage. For
Noel, the cooking and intensity of flavour of the vegetables is as
important as the meat. Apple is the thinnest caramelised apple tart
with an ice cream churned from Devon Blue cheese. This is food
that is at once totally local and really satisfying.
Do you still get time to go out and surf? I ask. I dont do too
badly, the 36-year-old chef tells me. We work incredibly hard for
six months, then we close and go to Mexico. I am really trying to
get the balance of work and family life right. Equilibrium seems
to be the key here, in food as in life.
Our trusty red Camper also takes us to the roof of Exmoor, where
we marvel at the most rugged cattle you will ever see, their shaggy
coats offering protection from the harsh elements that buffet this
high moorland, even in the summer months. Way up here they
thrive on a diet of coarse grass, gorse and heather, yielding meat
with fine marbling and terrific flavour. Exmoor lamb similarly matures
in a harsh natural environment to result in a character that is
deliciously robust and full. Just over the border in Somerset,
we pause for lunch at the bustling Tarr Farm Riverside Inn &
Restaurant beside a popular beauty spot. Moorland lamb, chargrilled
and pink, is served with local vegetables and washed down with
a quenching pint of Exmoor Ale.
Coming off the moor, we head into mid-Devon to meet organic
and free-range pig farmers Will Knowles and Jeannie Morrissey of
Pork Heaven from Devon. An ex-commercial pilot, Will took over his
fathers farm and only began to breed pigs about eight years ago.
To see Jeannie in the pens with the creatures is to know that this
is clearly a labour of love. Animals should be given the life they
deserve, says Will, matter-of-factly. I really do think ours enjoy
about the best life that a pig can have. The way to give respect to
the animal is to produce the best-tasting meat you can.
The results speak for themselves: since Will and Jeannie began
their business, they have won no end of praise, and awards for their
sausages, burgers, chops and belly pork,
70
FOOD & TRAVEL
XXXXX
Where to eat
Prices are for three courses excluding wine,
unless otherwise stated.
NC @ EX34 Dining at Noel Corstons restaurant
is a treat. The tasting menu changes regularly to

reflect what is available. This is dining of the
highest order, but it remains fun. Drop in, too, for
a cocktail. Tasting menu from 75. South Street,
Woolacombe, 01271 871187, noelcorston.com
Tarr Farm Inn A serious restaurant and place
to stay at one of Exmoors most popular beauty
spots. Come here for home-baked cakes,
sandwiches or baguettes, afternoon cream tea,
or full lunch or dinner. 35. Dulverton,
01643 851507, tarrfarm.co.uk
Terra Madre at Broomhill Art Hotel
Local meats, seafood, cheeses and homegrown

vegetables are part of Terra Madres Slow Food
philosophy. A Spanish twist comes from using
Iberian ingredients for tapas and more elaborate
dinner menus. 25. Muddiford Road, Barnstaple,
01271 850262, broomhillart.co.uk
The Coffee Cabin Fabulous crab sandwiches
and homemade cakes can be found in this
stylish caf on Appledores historic harbour. 10.
22 The Quay, Appledore, 01237 475843
The Exmoor Beastro This laid-back venue
brings the fun and diversity of street food to

a restaurant environment. Alex and Fiona are
proud to source ingredients from local farms,
and much of their delicious bistro-style food is
done in a small wood-fired oven in the courtyard.
35. 44 High Street, Dulverton, 01398
323712, theexmoorbeastro.com
The Quay Restaurant Views of Ilfracombe
Harbour compete with those of Damien Hirsts
art at this stylish restaurant. The menu centres
on local seafood think seared scallops with
chilli, lime, coriander and pak choi, and crispy
calamari with garlic mayonnaise. Dont miss
Verity, Hirsts bronze sculpture on the pier.
45. 11 The Quay, Ilfracombe, 01271 868090,
11thequay.co.uk
The Swan Devon Lifes Gastro Pub of the Year
2014 serves exceptional pub fare while still
being a welcoming place for locals to enjoy
a drink. Food is traditional: salt beef with tangy,
piccalilli and soda bread; soused Brixham
herrings; St Ives wild sea bass with linguine,
crab and roasted tomatoes. Good selection
of local ales and wines. 35. Station Road,
Bampton, 01398 332248, theswan.co
Opposite page:
Dan the Fishman
at Appledore;
Ilfracombe
harbour. This page,
clockwise from
below: Saunton
Sands; Lynmouth;
Damien Hirsts
sculpture Verity at
Ilfracombe; dunes
and beach huts at
Braunton Burrows
FOOD & TRAVEL
71
GOURMET TRAVELLER
GOURMET
TRAVELLER
XXXXXX
XXXXXX
Meat has lost so

much quality because
of supermarkets. We
are producing our food
in the old way, to make
meat and sausages that
have real taste
This page, from

top left: Lynmouth;
Linda Wright of
Barton Farm Dairy;
Exmoor cattle;
cheeses at Barton
Farm; on Exmoor.
Opposite, from top
left: Lynmouth;
gooseberries and
elderflowers, for
Victoria Cranfields
jam; Jeannie at
Pork Heaven; Gary
Wright at Barton
Farm; raw milk;
East Down; Pork
Heaven; Hunters
Inn, Heddon Valley
including Best of Sausages at the prestigious Taste of the West

Awards in 2014. Meat has lost so much quality because of
supermarkets. We are producing our food in the old way, to make
meat and sausages that have real taste, says Will.
At the nearby Stoodleigh Court Coach House B&B, we sample
the result of Will and Jeannies labours the next morning over an
ample farmhouse breakfast. The sausages are succulent, tasty and
absolutely delicious, certainly ranking among the best I have ever
tasted. The black pudding, fried until just crispy, is pretty sensational,
too. Rosey and Steve, our hosts, renovated the coach house of
the Stoodleigh Court estate into a beautiful, luxury, boutique B&B
that is welcoming and warm.
In Dulverton, the gateway to Exmoor, we visit the Exmoor Beastro
and meet Alex Nutts and Fiona OMahoney, another couple working
together to create a life for themselves and their young family.
Previously, Alex and Fiona ran a successful street food van. Their
favourite activity was to pick a spot on Exmoor to have a pop-up
happening, then tweet and send messages on Facebook and wait
for the crowds to appear. So successful were they that everyone
kept asking them to open a restaurant.
Alex cooks just about everything in a small wood-fired oven, while
Fiona makes the puddings and is front of house. The street food
ethos shines through in dishes made with impeccably sourced
local ingredients: onglet in red wine, damn fine BBQ pork ribs in a
sticky, finger-licking sauce, 65-day dry-cured steaks, and a beef
tagine with preserved lemon.
While some city folk dream of escaping to the country, for others
its more of a rediscovery. In Appledore, over a crab sandwich at
The Coffee Cabin (supplied by Dan the Fishman), Martin Ford and
Richard Parsons, both from North Devon and in their early 30s, tell
a little of their story. We moved away to study and work before
returning to open this business. When you come back to your
home, you see it with fresh eyes. There is a real quality of life here.
There is indeed. Our journey, though, is nearly at an end. We
meander down the lovely Exe Valley in our VW Camper, which has
transported us through the heart of North Devon. Just south of
Tiverton, we spy a sign to a local vineyard, Yearlstone, and cant
resist sampling Roger and Juliet Whites delightful pink sparkling
wine, made with pinot noir grapes grown in a steeply sloped vineyard
overlooking the river. The wine, with its fine and persistent bubbles,
is light and invigoratingly fresh, a sparkler that can stand comparison
with the best. Its the perfect wine to toast the artisan food producers,
the fishermen, the farmers and the chefs of North Devon.
Marc Millon and Mark Parren Taylor travelled to North Devon
courtesy of Visit Devon. For more details, see visitdevon.co.uk
GOURMET TRAVELLER
TRAVELLER
GOURMET
XXXXX
XXXXX
GOURMET TRAVELLER
TICINO
Left to right: Dan the Fishman at The Coffee Cabin in Appledore; the cafs crab sandwiches; Heddon Mouth; ploughmans lunch at Tarr Farm Inn
Where to shop
Barton Farm Dairy Come down to the farm to taste and purchase
unpasteurised milk, cream and outstanding farmhouse cheeses. If no one
is in, simply help yourself and leave your money in the honesty box.
Kentisbury, Barnstaple, 01271 882283, bartonfarmdairy.co.uk
Dan the Fishman Prime, locally caught fish from Dans barrow, is a familiar
sight at markets across North Devon including Bideford, South Molton,
Hatherleigh and Holsworthy. Dan is a great communicator and runs fish
workshops as well as talks in schools. clovellyfish.com
Pork Heaven from Devon Head direct to the source to meet Will
and Jeannie and purchase a range of fabulous pork products, including
award-winning sausages. Stoodleigh Barton Farm, Stoodleigh, Tiverton,
01398 351568, porkheavenfromdevon.com
Real Food Market Theres a great selection of North Devons edible
bounty on show here: farmhouse cheeses, meat, sausages, homemade
cakes and pies, proper bread, the freshest seafood and shellfish and much
more. Producers are small and individual, including Cranfields, Red Dog
Bakery, Glam Pig, Wizard Ales Brewery, Bampton Game, Old Forge Fish,
Bulldog Fish Farm, Stefanos Homemade Foods, The Posh Kebab
Company and Johns of Instow. Pannier Market, Barnstaple, takes place

on the second Sunday of each month
Victoria Cranfield produces award-winning marmalades, jellies, preserves
and chutneys on a small scale in a shed behind her house, utilising much
that is grown in the garden and fields. Find her fine preserves in delis and
fine food shops or online. Cranfields Food and The Proper Marmalade
Company, East Down, Barnstaple, 01271 850842, cranfieldsfoods.com
West Country Cheese Co Just behind the Pannier Market on Barnstaples
Butchers Row, offering an extensive selection of mainly West Country
cheeses as well as artisan food products from the area. A good place
to stock up for a beachside picnic or cycle ride along the Tarka Trail.
10 Butchers Row, Barnstaple, 01271 379944, westcountrycheese.co.uk
Yearlstone Vineyard Located in a commanding position overlooking the
Exe Valley, this is Devons oldest modern vineyard, first cultivated in 1976.
Today, Roger and Juliet White produce a range of top-notch wines, from
white or ros sparkling to full-bodied red. The vineyard can be visited in
season and the Deli Shack Caf offers light lunches to accompany the
full range of wines. Bickleigh, 01884 855700, yearlstone.co.uk
Left to right: magnificent local crayfish; Saunton Sands; Yearlstone Vineyard brut; Martin Ford and Richard Parsons of The Coffee Cabin
74
FOOD & TRAVEL
Enjoy the holiday

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Left to right:
tasting the best of
the Greek islands
HOT HOLIDAYS
HOTlong
WEEKENDS
Want a hit of sunshine with a side serving of fabulous food? Ian Belcher seeks out some
of the best places around Europe and beyond where you can escape for a breather
LEFKADA, GREECE
AVERAGE HIGH: 27C. AVERAGE SUNLIGHT HOURS: 15
Photos by San Nicolas resort; Carl Pendle; Region of Ionian Islands; lefkada.gr
Thanks to a causeway to the mainland that allows an easy 20km

drive from Preveza airport, Lefkada delivers an accessible, intense
shot of Greek island culture. You get a lot in a short period of
time. An awful lot. From the galleries, shops and restaurants in the
eponymous main town, to the pastel-hued waterfront tavernas,
ice cream vendors and boat rentals of Nidri. West coast beaches
include Kathisma, Egremni and Porto Katsiki whose blinding
white pebbles, soaring cliffs and electric-blue Ionian Sea make
shades a necessity rather than a fashion statement.
Thats just the start. Head into the mountainous interior, where
fresh air scented by oregano and thyme washes over monastic
ruins, craft museums and snoozing villages where old men sell
beer out of front-room fridges. And do stop for the view: the
panorama over the red rooftops of Nidri, across Skorpios island
where Aristotle Onassis married Jacqueline Kennedy in 1968
to mountains over 900m high is simply epic. For the more active
traveller, the ports here are some of the best on the Mediterranean.
Fly to Preveza's airport with EasyJet, easyjet.com, and return
with Thomson, ights.thomson.co.uk, from 271pp return.
Stay in intimate digs above Mikros Gialos Bay with sweeping
views at the modern resort San Nicolas, sannicolas.gr, or opt for
the romantic Gecko above Tsoukalades
village and its spectacular innity
pool. thegecko.eu
Above:
dinner at San
Nicolas. Below,
from left: fresh
seafood is in the diet;
Lefkadas soaring cliffs
FOOD & TRAVEL
77
IN SEASON
Clockwise from top:

Cagliari old town skyline;
local beach; simple
flavours; islanders pause
for a chat. Opposite,
clockwise from top:
simmering Split; dine in
Croatia with wine, seafood
and ice-cold beer
SOUTHEAST SARDINIA, ITALY

where the tropical comparisons reach their zenith. This short break
is all about beaches and early summer warmth, so dont expect
the ancient stones, romantic mood and boutique inns of Tuscanys
hilltops or the Neapolitan Riviera. However, Villasimius is perfectly
placed for the sand and will provide you with ne Sardinian sh
dishes at La Lanterna including fregula with mussels and clams, and
baby octopus with spicy tomato sauce, all washed down with good
value local wine. And if you just have to have a shot of traditional
Italian city life, theres easily time to spend the rst night in Cagliari,
creating a nifty two-centre, long-weekend short break.
Fly to Cagliari from 107 return on Alitalia. alitalia.com
Stay on the Villasimius beachfront in the cheery light-washed
interiors of the Stella Maris Hotel. stella-maris.com
Photos by Shutterstock; Peter Cassidy;

Alfonso Pierantonio
The Caribbeans a schlepp for a long weekend, so why bother

when you have southeast Sardinia close to hand? One of the most
modest, publicity shy regions of an island famed for its beaches
and translucent shallows, the area around Villasimius and Costa Rei
offers dazzling stretches of sand just an hours drive from the capital,
Cagliari. Many places in the Mediterranean claim near tropical
brilliance, but trust us, this is the real white powder, aquamarine
blue real deal. There are too many peaches to pick from, but we
recommend heading to Cala Sinzias backed with eucalyptus trees
(a favourite of surfers when the winds up), 500m-long Cala Pira
with its elegy inducing views of Isola Serpentara and wonderful
snorkeling any bay frescoed with anchored luxury yachts has
something going for it and small, gently sloping Punta Molentis,
SPLIT & ISLANDS, CROATIA
Photos by Croatian National Tourist Board;

Gary Latham; Ante Verzotti
Split: a wonderfully apt name. For a long early summer weekend, the
Croatian coastal city a gateway to the fabulous Adriatic islands
offers simultaneous servings of culture and sun-washed relaxation.
Its ancient heart is the beautiful Diocletian's Palace, built for the
Roman emperor in AD295, a living, breathing organic part of the
city that has been tweaked and pimped over 1700 years. Alongside
its houses, hotels and restaurants (try the contemporary Dalmatian
fare at Konoba Korta), Splits bag of historical showstoppers
includes subterranean halls once used to make wine and olive
oil, the beautiful colonnaded central courtyard and 7th century St
Domnius Cathedral on the site of the emperors mausoleum a
nice irony given the Romans bloodthirsty persecution of Christians.
You could spend days wondering its labyrinthine alleys and people
watching on the Riva the seafront promenade with its palm

trees, bars and perfect west-facing sundowners. But this is a short
break where you dont just look at the ocean, you get out onto it.
Three days gives you ample time to catch a ferry to Hvar, with its
lovely if pebbly beaches like Uvala Dubovica swaddled by deep
green pine trees. The old port of Stari Grad, a former haunt of
Edward VIII and Mrs Simpson, has sun-bleached lanes polished
by millennia of footprints, while 30 minutes away, Hvar town offers
splendid Venetian architecture seething with boutiques, bars
some like Caffe Gromit, overlooking the yacht-lled harbor and
chic, shades-on-the-head visitors.
Fly to Split from 145 return with British Airways. ba.com
Stay in Vestibul Palace in the heart of old Split. vestibulpalace.com
FOOD
FOOD&& TRAVEL
TRAVEL
87
79
Photos by Greater Miami Convention & Visitors Bureau
Top: away from the bustle

of the city, enjoy a blissful
day at Crandon Park beach
MIAMI, USA
Subtropical Miami might seem an exhausting short break option,

but kind connecting ights depart Thursday early evening, y back
late Sunday afternoon make it an exotic, accessible few-day trip.
Its a sprawling complex destination, obviously but no selfrespecting visit should ignore South Beach: a movie set made real
with bronzed rollerbladers zipping along Ocean Drive past softhued art deco buildings where ludicrously tall models sip cocktails
alongside celebrities and hipsters, and where the beautiful and the
tanned decorate the bleached white sand next to a shimmering
Atlantic. Naturally, youre here to relax not pose so try the excellent
shopping of Espaola Way and supper at Barton G., where the
eponymous chefs fabulous American cuisine includes shrimp
popcorn and grilled sea bass inside a paper bag sealed with
laundry clips. Got the energy to explore elsewhere? Try buzzing
Little Havana where grizzled senior Cubans play languid games of
baseball in Maximo Gomez Park. Take a stop off at Los Pinareos
Frutera, which serves a legendary banana milkshake Cuban coffee
blend, before heading to the lush bohemian charm of Coconut
Grove, Miamis oldest enclave. If youre feeling ush, go to the
upscale boutiques of Bal Harbour. Just make sure youre Ralph
Lauren chinos and pink shirt are well pressed.
Fly with British Airways from 490pp return. ba.com
Stay at The Betsy - South Beach, a colonial gem sitting pretty
in an art deco world. thebetsyhotel.com
Left to right: ball games on sunny, golden sands; rollerbladers and sunbathers head for Collins Avenue; a view of the Ocean over lilting palms
FOOD & TRAVEL
81
IN SEASON
The Kato Paphos Archeological Park, a

Unesco World Heritage Site, embraces ruins
from prehistory to the Middle Ages, shining
most brightly with its gorgeous mosaics
on the oor of four Roman villas
PAPHOS, CYPRUS
Clockwise from
top left: beauty
at every turn;
dolmades;
salting the lamb
skewers; wild
flowers; Almyra
Hotel; a friendly
local; Annabelle,
a Thanos Hotel
82
FOOD & TRAVEL
If youre after a short recharge for the body and mind, Paphos,
on the southwest coast of Cyprus, offers an enticing bundle of
beaches and ancient history, wrapped in a ribbon of warm sun
stretching to over 300 days a year. The area around and about
Paphos (far more civilized than some of the islands wilder resorts)
boasts 27 beaches, including the long curl of sands linking
Cape Drepano and Lara.
The photogenic harbour with its smatter of tavernas, cafs and
boutiques is a good starting point to decompress, but for supper
it pays to follow the tried and tested wisdom of heading back from
the pretty waterfront to where Ta Perix serves the best meze in town
including grilled quail, wild asparagus and wine-cured pork.
Paphos, however, also serves up some terric cultural dishes. The
Kato Paphos Archeological Park, a Unesco World Heritage Site,
embraces ruins from prehistory to the Middle Ages, shining most
brightly with its gorgeous mosaics on the oor of four Roman villas.
Theres more art at Saint Neophytos Monastery, 10km away, with
beautiful Byzantine icons in the church, and frescoes in the cave
of the hermit saint, while further north nature takes over as creator
on the Akamas Peninsula, where the Goddess Aphrodite is said to
have bathed in the pool of the natural grotto.
We strongly recommend combining it with a visit to some of the
local wineries, the marvelous modern-day legacy of production
stretching back 5,000 years.
Fly to Paphos on EasyJet from 173pp return. easyjet.com
Stay in lovely, landscaped seafront gardens in the contemporary
Almyra Hotel. almyra.com
Photos by St Gerardi; Cyprus Tourism Organisation; Carl

Pendle; Sarah Coghill; Olive Tree Travel
IN SEASON
KAS & KALKAN, TURKEY

Photos by Carl Pendle; Olive Tree Travel;

Turkish Culture & Information Ofce
Turkeys Turquoise Coast offers such widescreen drama, its hard

to credit youve arrived on a short escape after a three-hour ight.
Yet a budget ight to Dalaman followed by a spectacular, soul-lifting
drive delivers you to Kalkans higgle-piggle of white architecture,
sandwiched between a deep blue Mediterranean and relentlessly
cyan sky. One of the countrys most sophisticated boltholes,
its littered with villas and more than acceptable restaurants behind
a pretty harbour try the fresh seafood or wild boar at Aubergine
on the waterfront.
Kas, slightly further to the east, developed as a bohemian drop
zone in the sixties hippies had terrible hair but a great eye for peachy
hangouts before surrendering to the yacht and gulet crowd. It still
maintains a small shing town vibe with narrow streets and chic
boutiques, epic azure views worthy of Santorini and rock shelves
(beach clubs) perfect for sunbathing. As for the Mediterranean,

resistance is useless. Head to nearby Kaputas Beach backed by
steep cliffs, or further west to Oludeniz, the poster boy for Turkish
tourism with water of Maldivian clarity beneath 1,969m Babadag, a
mountain ready to jump off for a tandem paraglide ight youll never
forget. A long weekend also allows easily enough time for an inland
excursion to the historic villages and citadels of Xanthos Valley, with
the awe-inspiring, 300m-deep Saklikent Gorge and Patara Beach,
birthplace of Santa Claus, guaranteeing you return home not just
refreshed, but with unbeatable dinner party trivia.
Fly to Dalaman from 140pp return with EasyJet. easyjet.com
Stay in lovely local apartments or a villa from olivetreetravel.com,
or in the contemporary, bright, light and white accommodation
offered by Mini Saray Hotel. minisarayhotel.com
Clockwise from
top left: colourful
tableware for sale;
rich and juicy
olives; fisherman; a
tempting tentacle;
sailing boats; Olive
Tree Travels Villa
Tigra; Dalaman
coast; one mans
lot in life
FOOD & TRAVEL
83
IN SEASON
You dont have to be a meteorological detective to work out April is the best time to travel. Its a shoulder month and gives you the
COMPORTA, PORTUGAL
An easy hour or so drive south of Lisbon, Herdade da Comporta

is one of Europes most stylish, understated hideaway: an enclave
of barefoot, bleached wood style. Its low-key splatter of seven
coastal hamlets, laced with remarkable villas, lets the continents
A-listers, well-connected Lisboans and bon chic, bone genre
Parisians, rub shoulders with artists, designers and surfers.
The glorious sweep of honeyed powder beach, culminating in
the north with the 12km-long spit protecting The Sado Estuary, is
backed by dunes, rice paddies and forests of cork oak and pine.
Youll want to dip a toe, although perhaps not a head, in the still
chilly Atlantic, but Comporta is more about nessing the ne art
of doing very little. We thoroughly recommend some beachfront
lethargy, crashing on multicoloured beanbags or hammocks
outside Comporta Caf, eating clams in garlic, white wine and
parsley at Ilha do Arroz, or keeping a lazy eye open for the nature
reserves storks and amingoes.
Development, inevitably, is planned, including a new Aman
resort, but for the moment youll get a good value apartment in
Comporta village, or can stay in the accurately named Sublime
Hotel. Just remember, if you see the Monaco royals, or Nicolas
Sarkozy and Carla Bruni pottering about in a golf buggy, close
your mouth and dont point.
Fly to Lisbon from around 145pp with Tap. ytap.com
Stay in apartments in Comporta village, casasdacomporta.net,
or among the pines and clean linear design of Sublime Hotel.
sublimecomporta.pt
You dont have to

be a meteorological
detective to work out
April is the best time
to travel. Its a
shoulder month and
gives you the
84
FOOD & TRAVEL
Photos by John Anthony Rizzo; Paulo Barata; Mark Parren

Taylor; Camara Municipal de Sines
Clockwise from
top left: prising
percebes; Praia
Zambujeira do
Mar; Sublime
Hotels pool lives
up to the name;
a whitewashed
village square;
take your pick of
seafood; men
shoot the breeze
Chefs
masterclasses
tasting
Book
tickets
now
syon park
MAY 23-25
FOODIESFESTIVAL.COM O 0844 995 1111
HOT HOLIDAYS
Food FESTIVALS
Events celebrating food, drink, restaurants and local produce will be sweeping the nation
this summer as popular as their musical cousins. Jo Lamiri rounds up the UKs best
CENTRAL
WITNEY FESTIVAL OF FOOD & DRINK
OXFORDSHIRE 16 May
SHUGBOROUGH ESTATE FOOD FESTIVAL

STAFFORD 11-12 July
Established only a few years ago, Witney has become a must in

the regional calendar bringing together Oxfordshires notoriously
excellent farmers markets all in one place. Stalls have an eclectic
and international avour, serving up the likes of Japanese dishes,
Brazilian bolitas (cheese balls), Moroccan tagines, paella, venison
burgers, whopping hog roasts, delicate macarons, yoghurts and fruit
gins. There are even artisan goodies for pets to get a treat too.
Tickets 2, witneyfoodfestival.co.uk
Set against the backdrop of one of Englands nest country houses,

its hard not to fall into the pace of a period drama. But theres plenty
of action here to get you going, too. Watch cake-offs, men versus
food challenges (which involves chowing down on an indigestioninducing combination of foods at high speed), chef talks and
cooking classes. Theres also a host of kids activities, live music
and interactive stalls, making it one for the whole family to enjoy.
Tickets from 7.50, greatbritishfoodfestival.com
SHREWSBURY FOOD FESTIVAL

SHROPSHIRE 27-28 June
SANDRINGHAM FOOD & DRINK FESTIVAL

NORFOLK 8-9 August
Last year over 10,000 visitors ocked to this festival featuring 200
exhibitors of quality food and drink. This year, you can again look
forward to demos by top chefs, including a Persian surgeon-turnedchef, a Paris-trained chocolatier, and third-generation family
baker and TV chef Marcus Bean. Join in knife skills sessions, coffee
masterclasses and a small-plate safari around local restaurants.
Tickets 6, shrewsburyfoodfestival.co.uk
Hosted on the Queens Estate, this is a new one for the summer
season. The area is packed with exciting food producers, many of
whom will be exhibiting, while Levi Roots and the Baker Brothers
will be headlining. Look out for the chocolate workshop and
international foods at the Piazza. A real ale marquee is available
for guests who fancy a bit of downtime out of the sun.
Tickets 8, sandringhamfoodfestival.co.uk
Clockwise from top left: Shrewsbury Food Festival; retro vibe at Tatton Park; homemade cakes; food fans gather; food trucks abound
FOOD & TRAVEL
87
IN SEASON
EAST
LONDON
EAST
TASTE OF LONDON
REGENTS PARK 17-21 June
ESSEX FESTIVAL OF FOOD & DRINK

BRAINTREE 18-19 July
From burgers to bibimbap, ceviche to sushi, Taste will be taking

over Regents Park for the 12th year, with over 40 world-class
chefs strutting their culinary stuff. More than 50,000 food lovers
will be sampling top-notch produce amid numerous tastings and
workshops. You could spend the entire day eating, quite literally.
Tickets from 16, london.tastefestivals.com
North Essex and East Anglia is primarily agricultural, so its tting

that this festival takes place in a medieval farmstead. Discover the
best local wines, preserves, seafood and sausages, brought to you
by established and new producers. John Torode and James Martin
are set to demo and therell be Italian cookery classes for kids too.
Tickets from 7.50, ecfoodfestival2015.nmgl.co.uk
FOODIES FESTIVAL
ALEXANDRA PALACE 3-5 July
WHITSTABLE OYSTER FESTIVAL

KENT 25-31 July
At this years Foodies Festival theres a real buzz. As well as demos

from the likes of Michelin-starred chefs, you can learn about
urban beekeeping, foraging, raw and vegan foods or how to shuck
an oyster. Small-scale producers, the citys top street food and
drinks samplings complete the gastronomic picture.
Tickets from 12, foodiesfestival.com/alexandra
Rock stars abound, but theyre all of the crustacean kind on the
Kent coast. Get ready for oyster-eating competitions and learn how
to shuck, shell out for special knives and argue the toss over whether
Tabasco, lemon or au naturel is the way to go for the full briny hit
when chewing (not swallowing) your quality raw oyster.
Entry free, whitstableoysterfestival.co.uk
LONDON CRAFT BEER FESTIVAL

BETHNAL GREEN 13-16 August
CHILLI FIESTA
CHICHESTER 7-9 August
Big avours and brews by independent craftsmen are on tap, with

exhibitors from the UK, Europe and the US. Tickets give you
licence to enjoy unlimited beer in your free tasting glass. Soak up
the booze with beer-friendly tucker from Ginger Pig, Lukes Jerk
Chicken and Hackney-based Caf Plump. Expect great tunes, too.
Tickets from 30, londoncraftbeerfestival.co.uk
Even if the mercury is low, it will still be a scorcher at West Dean

College. Take a look at 250 varieties in the glasshouses, then enjoy
capsicum carnage at over 140 stalls many new this year. Sultry
salsa music and pyrotechnic reworks ensure the heat stays on and
camping is available within the splendid grounds.
Day tickets from 10, westdean.org.uk
GRILLSTOCK
CHESTNUTS FIELD 5-6 September
ALDEBURGH FOOD & DRINK FESTIVAL

SUFFOLK 26-27 September
If smoked ribs, spice and pulled pork light your re, head to this
carnivorous festival where barbecued bites are in harmony with
music from Hayseed Dixie, Cuban Bros and Razorlight. The event
reaches its crescendo with the UKs largest barbecue competition,
King of the Grill, which sees the nations top pit masters go head to
head, with tongs in their arsenal. En guard!
Tickets 30, grillstock.co.uk
Snape Maltings, home to this festival, is more usually associated

with music, but for two days, local beer, cider, jams, sea salt, oysters
and more call the tune. Local provenance is key to this charming
rural celebration of Suffolks best food and drink, along with classes
lead by some of the regions nest chefs. Be sure to look out for
Alder Tree for some stunning fruit ice creams and sorbets.
Day tickets from 8, aldeburghfoodanddrink.co.uk
Below left to right: John Torode and James Martin head to Essex; the party is on at Essex Festival of Food & Drink; chillis of all shapes,
Photos by Elie Dervont; Toby Lowe Photography
Above left to right: raising a glass or two at Aldeburgh Food and Drink Festival; local camping; creperie stand; freshly caught Guernsey
crabs for sale; locals and tourists alike begin to gather on the pretty waterfront for the renowned Pommery Dorset Seafood Festival
SOUTH AND SOUTH WEST

Grillstock
reaches its
crescendo
as the UKs
largest
barbecue
competition,
King of the
Grill, sees top
pit masters go
head to head,
with tongs in
their arsenal
POMMERY DORSET SEAFOOD FESTIVAL

WEYMOUTH 11-12 July
With its lengthy coastline, seafood looms large in the Dorset

psyche. This award-winning street festival along the harbour has
about 100 seafood stands, a charity sh auction, kids crabbing,
sustainability awards for exhibitors and a pop-up restaurant. This
year, the spotlight will be on cockles, clams and oysters.
Entry free, dorsetseafood.co.uk
THE ISLE OF WIGHT GARLIC FESTIVAL
NEWCHURCH 15-16 August
Vampires, steer clear. In August, this Isle of Wight goes garlic mad.
Centred around the Garlic Farm, the festival is a treasure trove of
the clove. Here it pops up, pungently, in everything from beer to
popcorn and ice cream. Feast to your hearts content (in every sense)
while raising funds for the isles sizable garlic-growing industry.
Tickets 9.50, garlic-festival.co.uk
GUERNSEY INTERNATIONAL FOOD FESTIVAL
18-27 September
Guernsey is aiming to put itself on the culinary map with its new
festival. Events include apple pressing and cheese bowling, plus
the chance to sample the islands wonderful meat, sh and dairy
products. Sessions with local culinary talents are offered, and keep
an eye out, too, for hedge veg foraged leaves, berries and owers.
Entry free, visitguernsey.com/food-festival
GREAT CORNISH FOOD FESTIVAL
TRURO 25-27 September
Stargazy pie, pasties, beer and clotted cream are safe bets for this
established celebration of Cornish and Scilly Isles foods. Expect
40,000 visitors, a host of exhibitors, and local seafood maestros
such as Nathan Outlaw and Jack Stein all of which packs a real
foodie punch in this compact and friendly Cornish city.
Entry free, greatcornishfood.co.uk
sizes and heats await at West Dean blue skies over Londons Taste; sea views and bobbing boats down by the harbour on Guernsey
FOOD
FOOD&& TRAVEL
TRAVEL
87
89
WEST
NORTH
BRIDPORT FOOD FESTIVAL

DORSET 7-13 June
FOODIES FESTIVAL, TATTON PARK

CHESHIRE 17-19 July
Bridports ever-popular festival aims to put producers from Dorsets

gastronomically gifted Jurassic coast centre stage. Exchange Taste
Trail tokens to sample wine, cream teas and signature dishes from
the areas best. Enjoy the open farm day and take part in a food and
cookery writing workshop. The best cake competition has a twist
only vegetable-based creations are allowed.
Tickets 2.50, bridportfoodfestival.co.uk
Tatton Park will be toasting the 10th birthday of Foodies Festival

with a new champagne theatre (and one for craft beer) part of
this years jam-packed menu. Join top chefs such as Glynn Purnell,
Dhruv Baker and Adam Handling for a taste of Cheshires nest
produce through masterclasses, pop-up restaurants, live demos,
banquets and intriguing events like a chocolate safari.
Tickets from 10, foodiesfestival.com/tatton
CHELTENHAM FOOD & DRINK FESTIVAL

GLOUCESTERSHIRE 12-14 June
BOLTON FOOD & DRINK FESTIVAL

GREATER MANCHESTER 28-31 August
Launched in 2008, this Cotswold fests 19,000 visitors ock to see

the likes of the Hairy Bikers, Antonio Carluccio and Phil Vickery
cook in elegant Regency gardens. This years highlights include
bread-making with Richard Bertinet, gin distilling and a JeanChristophe Novelli demo. Live music will keep the tempo up into
the evening as you get round the 200-odd ne food exhibitors.
Tickets from 4, cheltenham-food-festival.garden-events.com
August Bank Holiday weekend sees more than 150,000 visitors

arriving in Bolton to sample, taste, watch and enjoy Lancashires
nest foods from over 100 food stalls. To celebrate a decade of
festivals, this year covers a wider area of the city and theres a new
art and crafts trading area. A German beer keller will open on
Victoria Square, with a non-alcoholic area for younger guests.
Tickets 5, boltonfoodanddrinkfestival.com
THE BIG FEASTIVAL

KINGHAM 28-30 August
FOOD & DRINK FESTIVAL

MANCHESTER 10-21 September
Each summer, ex-Blur bassist Alex Jamess idyllic farm plays host
to foodies, models and celebs attending Jamie Olivers The Big
Feastival. Expect schools led by the pros, James Lowe, Raymond
Blanc and Monica Galetti, pukka street food, a wealth of local
producers, cookery classes and a vintage funfair. Music from
Paloma Faith and Roots Manuva are also on the menu.
Day tickets from 45, jamieoliver.com/thebigfeastival
Manchesters food scene was for years maligned, but now with a host
of Michelin stars, its chefs, restaurateurs and producers are getting
noticed. For 11 days this September, various venues across the city
will host street-food fairs, produce markets, craft beer tastings, live
music and awards nominated by locals. Fringe events include the
Big Indie Wine Fest, a Liquor Market and gala dinner.
Entry to main event free,foodanddrinkfestival.com
ABERGAVENNY FOOD FESTIVAL

WALES 19-20 September
YORK FOOD FESTIVAL

YORKSHIRE 18-27 September
Award-winning Abergavenny fest isnt just about satisfying your

palate. Food journalists such as Sheila Dillon and AA Gill chair
debates on hot topics, while Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, Jay
Rayner and Jancis Robinson educate and entertain at talks and
tastings. From just 39 exhibitors in 1999, Abergavenny now attracts
over 200 independent producers, many from Wales.
Tickets TBC, abergavennyfoodfestival.com
Yes, there will be parkin, Wensleydale cheese and Fat Rascals for
all you traditionalists but this Yorkshire jamboree also offers
wine, Dexter beef, chilli jam and more. Why not join the Ale Trail
basically a pub crawl of Yorks Real Ale pubs or Taste Trail
of independent food retailers? Start at one, and make your way
through to the end with all manner of sustenance to try en route.
Entry to main event free, yorkfoodfestival.com
Clockwise from top left: West Dean; food stall; Manchester eats; Chichester Taco Truck; stars Alex James and Jamie Oliver; Big Feastival
90
FOOD & TRAVEL
Padstow Seafood School

Our award winning cookery courses offer the perfect
balance of demonstrations by our chefs and hands-on
cooking as well as plenty of time to enjoy the fruits
of your labour whilst overlooking the camel estuary.
Prices start at 35, choose from:
- Tasting evenings
- One dish workshops
- Half day courses
- One day courses
- Childrens cookery
- Skill workshops
- Cook your own dinner evenings
- Two day courses
- Four day courses
- Cookery breaks from 248
www.rickstein.com
01841 532700
Padstow | Cornwall
@PWSeafoodSchool
A weekend to savour
Jersey bursts with places to enjoy a superb meal or a perfect pint.
Michelin-starred places, where the oysters are so fresh, you can still taste
the sea. Coastal places, where gastropubs and trendy cafs serve crab
sandwiches so full, youll need the miles of breathtaking beaches to walk
them off! Country places deep in the islands lush interior, where cosy inns
serving fresh-from-the-eld produce are tucked away. And stylish places
where, after a day exploring, you can simply relax and enjoy a soothing
spa treatment. Add a mild climate, easy travel by air or sea from the UK
and great-value offers, and youve discovered Jersey.
jersey.com
CAYMAN BRAC
LITTLE CAYMAN
GRAND CAYMAN
3 of lifes
little luxuries
ca ymanislands.co.uk
Theres more than one type of

seahorse in the Cayman Islands.
CITY BREAKS
HOURS
48
Baku
Travel time 5.5 hours
Salisbury
Seville
Travel time 1.5 hours
Travel time 3 hours
With the inaugural European Games coming to Baku this month, the capital of Azerbaijan will be looking its glitzy
best as the eyes of the world focus in. Medieval buildings and archaic donkey pumps sit next to a sprawling array
of skyscrapers, in this Central Asian metropolis. Its not forgotten its culinary heritage, with lamb featuring on every
menu, jewelled with a cornucopia of dried fruits and nuts, served with fresh-from-the-oven atbreads. Then to Salisbury,
famed for its soaring cathedral, Wiltshire ham, cheeses and the as gluttonous as it sounds lardy cake. Wander
the cobbled streets and take in the farmers market, before making a pilgrimage to Stonehenge, just a short drive
away. Finish the day with supper in a cosy pub restaurant and rest your head at one of its many B&Bs. Seville is of
course famous for its oranges sun-ripened, tart and ready to be sliced and preserved in marmalade. Explore the citys
Moorish roots that make it the backdrop to Game of Thrones with superb Andalucian food including delicious tapas,
some of the best jamn in the country and plenty of no. Best served chilled and drunk on a sunny terrace.
FOOD & TRAVEL
93
Clockwise, from top

left: the Old City;
Flame Towers forms
a backdrop; baking
bread; Heydar Aliyev
Center; carpets for
sale; a shaded retreat;
Nizami Street; Palace
of Shirvanshahs;
Carpet Museum;
bounty of souvenirs;
the Fairmonts sculpted
outdoor pool
CITY BREAKS
BAKU
Futuristic skyscrapers, medieval ramparts and swanky sky bars Azerbaijans capital
serves up a slice of the old world with a liberal dose of the new, says Sarah Reid
Why go? Most widely known for its oil wealth (not to mention
Where to stay The Fairmont Baku, 00 994 12 565 4848,
hosting the 2012 Eurovision Song Contest), Azerbaijans capital

has been busy preparing for its biggest moment in the spotlight
when it stages the rst ever European Games, baku2015.com,
in June. Because of a recent 30 per cent devaluation of the local
currency taking the sting out of hotel rates, theres never been
a better time to get a taste of Eurasias epicentre of glitz.
What to do Although somewhat over-enthusiastically restored, the
compact Old City still has plenty of charm. Get your bearings from
the rooftop of the 12th-century Maiden Tower, Bakus foremost
architectural icon, before haggling for an exquisite Azerbaijani
carpet in one of the dozen-odd emporiums near its base. The
walled citys warren of twisting alleys leads to the Palace of the
Shirvanshahs. The seat of Azerbaijans ruling dynasty during the
Middle Ages, this stunning sandstone complex is now a museum.
Just beyond the Old City on the Caspian side, the new rug-shaped
Carpet Museum, 00 994 12 497 2057, azcarpetmuseum.az,
is impossible to miss and on a sunny day, the wide seafront
bulvar (boulevard) hugging the shoreline on its doorstep is a
lovely spot for a stroll. Baku has a burgeoning art scene and the
Jean Nouvel-designed Museum of Modern Art, 00 994 12 490
8404, mim.az, houses some of its best contemporary works.
A short taxi ride from here on the edge of the new city, the uid
white mass of the Zaha Hadid-designed Heydar Aliyev Center,
heydaraliyevcenter.az, is testament to Bakus radical departure
from its legacy of normative Soviet modernism. The big draw is
the structure itself, but the high-tech permanent museum inside
has plenty on Azerbaijans turbulent history. If youve got time, sign
up for a day trip to the ancient petroglyphs of Gobustan, about
60km south-west of Baku. En route, youll glimpse whats left
of the swathe of creaking donkey pumps that set the scene for
Brosnan-era James Bond caper The World is Not Enough, a lm
title one could argue is now an apt motto for Baku itself.
fairmontbaku.com/baku, in the iconic Flame Towers perched

above the Old City, has Bakus nest spa. Also opened in the
past few years, the JW Marriott Absheron, 00 994 12 499 8888,
marriott.com, in Port Baku, wins points for its restaurants (Fireworks
Urban Kitchen serves Bakus best steak) and 21st-oor gym.
The Shah Palace, 00 994 12 497 0405, eng.shahpalacehotel.
com, ts the bill for classic Azeri luxury.
Where to eat and drink Fuel up with the delicious local cheeses
and dried fruits that feature on hotel breakfast buffets, or head
to hip Bisque Cafe, 00 994 12 598 9995, bisquecafe.az, for a
Mediterranean-style brunch. For lunch, try a few local favourites:
such as lyula (lamb or mutton skewer served with lavash bread),
plov (Azeri-style pilaf), qovurma (lamb stewed with onions and
pomegranate) and saj ichi (meat and vegetables cooked in
a cast-iron pot). Find them at kitsch-fabulous Baku institution
Firuza, 00 994 12 318 6545, or the more upmarket, caravanseraistyle Mugham Club, 00 994 12 492 4085. Azeris are mad for
tea at any time of the day; you can nd chaikhanas (teahouses)
everywhere, but the Fairmont Bakus Nur Lounge does a splendid
afternoon tea with all the trimmings. If you havent had your ll of local
fare, head to swish Sumakh, 00 994 12 480 2112, for dinner, or
go pan-Asian at Chinar, 00 994 12 404 8211, chinar-dining.com,
washed down with a cocktail at eclectic new bar-of-the-moment
Pivnaya Apteka, 00 994 12 404 8218. Get a glass of quaffable
locally produced Fireland Vineyards wine at the Landmark Hotels
Sky Bar, 00 994 12 465 2000, thelandmarkhotel.az, which makes
up for its ho-hum design with fabulous views from a roof terrace.
Time running out? Swing by Bir Iki, just off Fountain Square, for
an excellent takeaway doner kebab for the equivalent of 2.
Trip tip Where oil comes cheap, so do the taxi fares. More
convenient still, the citys eet of purple London cabs use meters.
Great if you dont want to get taken for a ride.
Travel information
Resources
Azerbaijan Travel is a handy port of call, with visa information
and a good introduction to national cuisine. azerbaijan.travel/en
Getting there
Further reading
British Airways ies direct from London Heathrow to Heydar
Ali and Nino by Kurban Said (Vintage, 8.99). This poignant novel
Aliyev International Airport. ba.com
charts a First World War-era romance between an Azerbaijani

boy and a Georgian girl. It is currently being adapted for the silver
screen by Bafta-winning British lmmaker Asif Kapadia.
Azerbaijan Railways operates local and international trains,
and provides a regular service to Moscow.

AVERAGE DAILY TEMPERATURES AND RAINFALL
Min C
Max C
mm
94
FOOD & TRAVEL
Jan
2
6
1
Feb
2
6
1
Mar
4
9
1
Apr
8
17
1
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14
22
1
Jun
19
28
0
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1
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0
Sep
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Nov
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13
1
Dec
4
9
1
Photos by Carl Pendle; Sarah Reid; Methup Ycel
Currency is the Azerbaijani manat. Time is four hours ahead of

GMT. Travel time is about 5 hours 30 minutes from London. The
cost to carbon-offset is 8.28, visit climatecare.org
Clockwise, from top

left: elegant Howards
House Hotel, perfect
for afternoon tea; one
of Wiltshires white
horses; the cathedral;
a gothic arch and
14th-century Poultry
Cross; Stonehenge;
Wilton House; Charter
Market; the UKs tallest
spire; food with a view
at the 17th-century
Howards House Hotel
CITY BREAKS
SALISBURY
Why go? This year is the 800th anniversary of Magna Carta,
and Salisbury Cathedral has unveiled a new exhibition all about

the famous document. Of the four original charters remaining,
Salisburys is by far the best preserved. Its a must see.
What to do Beyond the Tolkein-esque interior of the octagonal
Chapter House, where Magna Carta is displayed, Salisbury
Cathedral, salisburycathedral.org.uk, has plenty more to offer.
The tallest spire in the UK deserves to be seen rst hand take
a tour of this vertigo-inducing feat of medieval engineering.
It also boasts the countrys largest cathedral close, a 32ha area
of encircled gardens and other buildings. These are also worth
visiting if you have time. Mompesson House is an immaculately
preserved 18th-century Queen Anne townhouse, nationaltrust.
org.uk, complete with all the period trimmings and a stunning
walled garden. The Ries Museum, thewardrobe.org.uk, houses
a collection of war memorabilia relating to the history of the
Infantry Regiments of Berkshire and Wiltshire. And the awardwinning Salisbury Museums archives, salisburymuseum.org.uk,
are about the history, archeology and art of local areas including
Old Sarum (an Iron Age hill fort thought to be the original site
of modern-day Salisbury), Stonehenge and medieval Salisbury.
However, if you want to get up closer, you can hop on the daily
tour bus, thestonehengetour.info, which will pick you up from
the railway station and drop you within touching distance of both
Stonehenge just 14km away and Old Sarum. On Tuesdays
and Saturdays, the central Market Place is a hive of activity
as the Charter Market goes into full swing. With over 100 stalls,
it is one of the largest open-air affairs in the south of England,
though its the farmers market stalls, signied by blue and white
awnings, that are the real draw.
Where to stay The Pembroke Arms Hotel, 01722 743328,
pembrokearms.co.uk, is a small, family-run boutique hotel and
restaurant on the grounds of the 5,700ha Wilton House estate. The
nine rooms are richly decorated with oral wallpapers, generously
blanketed beds and antique-style furniture. In the restaurant,

a gastropub menu offers well-executed crowd pleasers like
grilled cod with a cheesy herb crust, and a refreshing semifreddo
lemon sherbet mousse cake. Although Howards House Hotel,
01722 716392, howardshousehotel.co.uk, is a little way out of
town, its worth the extra effort. Set within earshot of a stream in
the pretty village of Teffont Evias, this 17th-century stone building
houses ten comfortable rooms, and a restaurant headed by
acclaimed chef Nick Wentworth. Also on the outskirts of Salisbury,
Brook House, 01722 718242, brookhousesalisbury.com, is a
two-bedroom B&B in a Georgian cottage. The breakfasts, made
with local produce, are best enjoyed on the river terrace.
Where to eat and drink Charter 1227, 01722 333118,
charter1227.co.uk, run by chef Danny Bozic, occupies prime
real estate in Salisburys centre. British and European inuences
come together in an elegant menu of dishes such as guinea
fowl with sweet potato fondant, smoked bacon, corn pure and
mushroom velout, or goats cheese with honey panko crust,
pickled beetroot and blackberry essence. Situated in a redbrick
Victorian mill, Fisherton Mill, 01722 500200, shertonmill.co.uk,
is a cute combination of caf and art gallery. While the caf offers a
daily changing menu of sandwiches, cakes and soups, the gallery
showcases the work of local and up-and-coming artists. And if
you need a quick food stop while exploring, Hendersons Artisan
Bakery and Caf, 01722 341717, can keep you satised with
a still-warm hot cross bun or slice of rhubarb tart and a coffee.
Time running out? With chandeliers and topiary hedges to rival
Downton Abbey, 16th-century Wilton House, wiltonhouse.co.uk,
is perfect for a stroll outdoors and is so huge you could easily nd
yourself getting lost in its endless wings. Be sure to admire the
paintings by the likes of Rembrandt and Pieter Brueghel.
Trip tip Wiltshire is famous for its pork products. Look out for
Wiltshire and Bradenham ham, bacon fraise (fried, then covered
in an egg batter and baked) and the local sweet fancy, lardy cake.
Travel information
Getting there
National Express runs a regular service from London Victoria to
Salisbury, taking 3 hours. nationalexpress.com
South West Trains will get you to Salisbury from London
Waterloo in 1 hour 30 minutes. southwesttrains.co.uk
Resources
Visit Wiltshire The tourist board has detailed information on
travel, what to see and events, with ideas for exploring the city
and wider county. visitwiltshire.co.uk
Further reading
Magna Carta (Penguin Classics, 10.99). This accessible
version, translated by Professor David Carpenter, includes
excellent commentary on the momentous declaration.

Min C
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mm
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FOOD & TRAVEL
Jan
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1
8
1
Mar
13
11
2
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4
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May
7
17
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Jun
10
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Photos by Maerin Brent; David Noton; Stephen Spraggon; Howards House Hotel; Wilton House; visitwiltshire.co.uk
Charming medieval architecture, Wiltshire ham and idyllic countryside nearby all make
this market city with its soaring cathedral worthy of a pilgrimage, says Alex Allen
Clockwise, from top

left: typical tapas bar;
intricate local azulejo;
inside the Alczar
palace; a palatial arch;
an advert on tiles;
take a horse-drawn
carriage; Plaza de
Espaa; plate of
churros; typically
decorated old door;
the eponymous
orange; vibrant
design; no sherry
CITY BREAKS
SEVILLE
Fountain-lled courtyards, a rich history and some of the countrys best tapas are to be
found in Andalucias sun-soaked capital, the frying pan of Spain, says Renate Ruge
Why go? To eat, drink, dance and make merry, as well as sample
Sevilles famous bitter-sweet export: marmalade. Juicy oranges

ripe for the picking hang from trees 30,000 of them at the last
count all over this pretty southern Spanish city. It is also home
to many a esta and religious festival as well as the amboyant
dance that is the ery amenco.
What to do Start by entering the Alczar palace gardens, where
you will nd a lush green space with an orange grove, palm trees
and doves, and stately peacocks strutting around the fountains,
patios and water features of the 16th-century Jardin de las
Damas (Ladies Garden). Built in the 1300s, the Alczar palace
itself, alcazarsevilla.org, is one of Sevilles architectural high
points, so much so that Unesco made both palace and gardens
a World Heritage Site in 1987. The palace still stages royal
weddings and is home to King Juan Carlos I when the monarch is
in town. Its Moorish archways also play host to many TV and lm
sets, including Game of Thrones. In fact, the city abounds with
green spaces. Take a siesta in the largest one, Parque de Maria
Luisa; with its boulevards and duck ponds, it provides a pleasant
escape from the noise of the city, curving around the grand Plaza
de Espaa. Built for the 1929 Exposicin Iberoamericana, this
plaza is gaudily grandiose, with tiled alcoves that feature maps
and historic scenes of every Spanish province. You can hire
a rowing boat to take a ride around its mini-canals for just a
handful of euros. Next, head to Sevilles majestic cathedral, on
the site of the great 12th-century Almohad mosque, with the
original minaret, Giralda, towering beside it. As the sun sets, photo
opportunities can be found at the citys newest viewpoint, the
Metropol Parasol, setasdesevilla.com, a frilly wooden structure
towering over Plaza de la Encarnacin. Since completion in
2011, it has been nicknamed Las Setas (Mushrooms) by locals.
Where to stay Find ne food, wine and shelter at the very
reasonably priced Hotel Fontecruz Sevilla, 00 95 497 9009,
fontecruz.com, a former palace in a fantastic location that makes

a great base from which to get around the historic centre on
foot. Rooms are stylish, with black-tiled bathrooms. For a palatial
retreat, a silk-wallpapered room at Alfonso XIII, 00 34 95 4917000,
starwoodhotels.com, is a grand option. Housed in a neo-Moorish
mansion commissioned by its namesake king in the 1920s, the
Alfonso has a lovely garden pool and art deco American Bar,
former haunt of Ernest Hemingway and Eva Pern.
Where to eat and drink Walk along the cobbled streets and youll
stumble across many unassuming tapas bars with huge hams
hanging from the ceiling. Sip a glass of chilled sherry with slices
of delicious jamn ibrico. Still going strong, Andalucias oldest, El
Rinconcillo Bar, 00 34 95 422 3183, en.elrinconcillo.es, has been
serving up small plates since 1670. Try cod in tangy tomato sauce,
mackerel marinated in spiced oil and spinach with chickpeas. A
must-visit is the fashionable Mercado Lonja del Barranco on Calle
Arjona, mercadolonjadelbarranco.com, built as a 19th-century
market but now housing a food hall with chandeliers and stalls
serving prawns, oysters, chilli octopus and Padrn peppers. Grab
a selection and find a shady spot for a snack under the umbrellas
on the riverside. Or enjoy a leisurely lunch at Oriza Restaurant
on Calle San Fernando, 00 34 954 227 254, restauranteoriza.
com, eaten alfresco on a leafy street. Try buttered baby squid,
fried calamari with wakame alioli or bulls tail with sweet and sour
wine jus. Finish the day with sundowners at department store El
Corte Ingles, elcorteingles.eu, which has an outdoor champagne
bar offering views across the entire city.
Time running out? Take an operatic walking tour, Seville, Opera
City, sevillaesopera.es, to see the many settings that inspired
Verdi, Donizetti, Beethoven, Bizet and Mozart.
Trip tip Float down the Guadalquivir river on a boat trip and be sure
to hop off at the lively Triana district, where you can discover the
Triana Ceramic Centre and lots of riverside cafs.
Travel information
Currency is the euro. Seville is one hour ahead of the UK. Flight
time is about 2 hours 45 minutes from London. Cost to carbon
offset for this ight is 2.68, visit climatecare.org
Resources
Seville Tourist Board has useful itineraries for stays of up to ve
days or more, plus a guide to gastronomic highlights, cycle tours
and the lowdown on amenco hotspots. visitasevilla.es
Further reading
Ernest Hemingway set two iconic novels in Spain: Death in
the Afternoon (Pocket Books, 5.50), about bullfighting, and
Fiesta: The Sun Also Rises (Arrow Classic, 5.59).
British Airways has a new service, ve days per week, from
London Gatwick. ba.com

Iberia offers daily ights from London Heathrow, some via
Madrid. iberia.com
Min C
Max C
mm
98
FOOD & TRAVEL
Jan
5
16
2
Feb
7
18
2
Mar
8
21
1
Apr
10
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2
May
13
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1
Jun
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Nov
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Dec
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Photos by Peter Cassidy; Renate Ruge
Getting there
COMPETITION
WIN
A SLOW FOOD TOUR OF
PUGLIA
FOR
TWO
WITH
BACK-ROADS TOURING
WORTH 3,390
uglias star is rising in the UK. The region, on the heel of

Italys boot, is having its time in the sun. And that sun means
temperatures in the thirties, from June to September, which
creates some of the nest produce in the world. The area has
a Slow Food philosophy, promoting local produce and regional
cooking. Theres no better place to witness it than the shady
garden of an osteria, enjoying sun-nourished antipasti drizzled
with Puglias rich and abundant olive oil.
This competition gives you the chance to soak up some latesummer sun while exploring Puglias lesser-known gems with
Back-Roads Touring. By winning, you and a guest will eat in
traditional restaurants handpicked from the Slow Food guide,
learn about local specialities including cheese, Salento wine and
olive oil, while being shown the regions most breathtaking sites
including the ancient town of Alberobello with its historic trulli
buildings and the Castellana Caves with their stalactites.
You will be ying from an airport of your choice and enjoy
luxurious accommodation, with breakfast included. Expert guides
will give you a unique understanding of Puglia and its cuisine.
THE PRIZE
Two places on the Slow Food Tour of Puglia with ve nights
bed and breakfast, welcome and farewell dinners and three
lunches in Slow Food restaurants. Full transport (including airport
transfers and mini-coach) is arranged as are return ights from
your international airport of choice. The winner and their guest
will enjoy three food or wine tastings and free entrance to various
attractions, including caves and an olive mill. Tour departs
8 September. If you dont win, dont despair you can still buy
tickets at 020 8987 0990, backroadstouring.com
HOW TO ENTER
Simply answer the question below by visiting foodandtravel.com/
offers-and-competitions: What is the Italian name given to
Puglias historic conical buildings?
The winner must be 18 or over, and the trip is subject to availability.

Full terms and conditions are available at foodandtravel.com/
offers-and-competitions
Tried&Tasted
COOKERY COURSES RESTAURANTS DELIS BOOKS HOTELS
The Woodspeen Cookery School Berkshire

Its not every day that a Michelin-starred chef promises to coach
you through creating the perfect dinner party. I know from personal
experience that timing is key, having tried to cater for groups of
friends with varying levels of success.
Set in the leafy West Berkshire countryside, The Woodspeen is a
converted 19th-century farm building housing a high-tech kitchen,
chic restaurant and fit-to-burst allotment. The schools owner, chef
John Campbell, has spent years in the kitchen, though his love for
this new project opened late last year is palpable.
Nature dictates his menu for diners so its not surprising to find
that the one we are preparing today comprises of the same kind of
local, seasonal produce. For instance, the potatoes still have
a little mud from the allotment as a testament to their freshness
and it being the time for game when we visit the venison has a
vivid red hue. Nothing comes without good planning, and the
cleverly orchestrated selection of dishes have their ingredients
meticulously laid-out to save us the fiddly work.
Everything is about the prep, says John, before guiding us
through the art of ice cream-making. I say art, but Johns technique
is explained simply. Everything here is hands on and we set about
whisking our mixture into a custard, before setting in a churner for
a handy shortcut. John moves on to explain a few useful scientific

facts behind food, without being overly complex; talking us through
the physics of boiling points and why certain ingredients curdle. For
our next task, we get to learn about the fermentation process in
bread, which makes it sound far less like the dark art Id imagined it
to be and a lot less hassle. After poking and prodding the dough
in a more confident fashion than Ive ever done before, Im suitably
impressed as the finished product emerges from the oven.
After taking care of such essentials, we get creative by making
a potato fondant to be served with the venison. Theres a knack to
getting it into shape with a cutter and browning it in oil, then making
a cartouche to keep it submerged in stock so the cooking remains
even. We serve it alongside choucroute (dressed sauerkraut); the
combination of pancetta, grain mustard and cabbage makes for
a sharp and zingy addition to the plate.
Johns ethos is one that is sure to inspire anyone who takes
a class here: If you start with great ingredients its difficult to go
wrong. You could try your hand at Fish and Shellfish, Pastry and
Desserts or Butchery too. And with a Michelin-starred chef looking
over your shoulder, your little summer soiree is sure to go alright
on the night. LH. 165. thewoodspeen.com
Deli of the month

Reviews by Laura Hill and Blossom Green
PULIA London Bridge

Already thriving in Milan, Venice and Florence, Pulia
is bursting with organic, artisan produce fresh from
the Italian ingredient heartland of Puglia. Set on the
periphery of Borough Market, this newly opened deli is
a worthy stopping point for stocking up on quality food
and drink; its also a super spot for breakfast to watch
the area as it springs into life on a weekend.
Puglian cuisine is known for its simplicity and you can
nd all the favourites and more in abundance: salami,
burrata, and a knotted mozzarella called nodino lie
behind the counter. Add olives, fresh salad and focaccia
and you can practically feel the sun beating on your
back. The wine, from selected Puglian producers, only
adds to the effect. Saunter between savoury bites like
taralli caserecci (mini crispy bagels) to a range of local

olive oils the orange-infused option is rather special.
A cornucopia of sauces festoon the walls, the pick being
spicy peperone piccante, a perfect foil for the regions
trademark orecchiette pasta. Home bakers should try
cristalli di limoncello (similar to crystalised ginger) to add
a citrus pep to cakes. Pasticciotto, Puglias answer to
the Portuguese custard tart, is not to be missed.
You eat surrounded by the produce, where even the
interiors are authentic of region. Whitewashed walls in
local stone and stripped-back Puglia-crafted furniture
give a rustic sense of place. A large pumo, a ower bud
offered as a lucky charm in Puglia, invites you to touch
it for good fortune before you leave. BG. pulia.it
Left to right: pad Thai at

Rosas Thai Cafe; interior of
the Angel branch; Smoking
Goat is a meaty, sticky,
hands-on affair; Mango Tree
in Londons Belgravia
Restaurants
This month, we sample Mayfair haunts old and new, feel the heat on a Thai tour of the
capital, then head abroad to a fantastic French lake for local sh and cool-blue views
May Fair Kitchen Mayfair
alk across the marble-slathered lobby of The May Fair hotel and you could head for
the ostentatious bar, or instead turn left to seek out the cooler hues of this classic
dining space. Yes, this is a starched white linen kind of place, but the energy and
offering is far from stuffy, and a welcoming warmth comes across from the staff. A glass of
vintage Mot to complement oysters whets the appetite while you decide on the main event.
Ingredients here are sourced directly from their producers and are showcased on open kitchen
counters; their provenance proudly recounted by waiters at a given moment. Simple, fresh
dishes include seared salt-coated tuna from the Maldives, or quails egg and blue cheese
ravioli. Even the heartiest of dishes red on the grill have a certain cleanness to them; a choice
of pig textures four different cuts of pork accompanied by a watercress salad allows the
avours of the meat to shine, and was considerably lighter than anticipated. For dessert, the
clementine cake is a must. BG. 020 7915 3892, mayfairkitchen.co.uk
Three for Thai
102
Rosas Thai Cafe Islington
Mango Tree Belgravia
Smoking Goat Soho
Starting out as a street stall on Brick Lane

in 2008, husband and wife team Saiphin
and Alex Moore now have six Rosas
spread across London. The newest, off
Upper Street in Angel, is a welcome
addition to the lively neighbourhood. A
round of cocktails whipped up at the bar
and served at a table in one of cosy
booths paves the way for a convivial meal
with mates or an informal dinner date. Thai
favourites like tom yam soup stand up to
scrutiny, while specials, Thai calamari with
plum sauce, pomelo salad with minced
prawns and tofu and aromatic pumpkin
red curry, are all conversation-starters. HR.
020 3393 2482, rosasthaicafe.com
For authenticity, look no further. This

institution of over 10 years is led by Asian
food expert Ian Pengelley, who, after
extensive travels in Thailand, balances its
punchy spice to perfection. The stylish
interior has a feng shui design and serves
as a fitting atmosphere for the carefully
presented plates. Tuck into the likes of
grilled sea bass wrapped in banana leaf
with fresh lemongrass and a spiced lime
sauce (pla pow), or green prawn curry with
Thai aubergine and sweet basil (gaeng
kiew wan). The famous tom yum gai, a hot
and sour soup with chicken and shimeji
mushrooms is not to be missed. BG. 020
7823 1888, mangotree.org.uk
Some food is worth getting mucky for.

Charcoal under your fingernails kind of
mucky. Once youve torn apart the fish
sauce chicken wings and licked every last
sticky drop of the glaze from your hands,
youll understand. Smoking Goat is tiny, in
typical Soho style, with little more than
a handful of tables, making full use of the
horseshoe bar and its 12 seats. Alongside
chicken, order the whole crab in coconut
milk and lamb ribs, fresh off the charcoal
grill and smoky enough to wake up
smelling of ash tomorrow morning. Again,
in Soho style, theres no reservations. Its
so cool it doesnt even have a phone.
MS. smokinggoatsoho.com
FOOD & TRAVEL
Reviews by Heidi Ruge; Blossom Green; Mark Sansom; Renate Ruge.

Photos by Rob Whitrow; Paul Winch-Furness
Left to right: a perfect balance

of avours at Mango Tree; sleek
design at renowned Clos des
Sens; rhubarb dessert from
The Greenhouse; its dining
room; chef Arnaud Bignon
Tried&Tasted
EAT
Global
gourmet
Clos des Sens Annecy, France
Overlooking the beautifully serene Lake Annecy,
just outside of the towns main thrall, Clos des
Sens is set on a narrow, high-walled road that
leads to the mountains. Head chef and owner
Laurent Petit has been at the pass here since
1992 and while there are a number of chic guest
rooms available for out-of-towners, the twoMichelin-starred restaurant is always choc-full
of regulars, who greet waiters by name and
provide the place with a familial vibe.
On warm days, floor-to-ceiling windows pull
back to extend the dining room onto a raised
veranda, where lush greenery envelops leading
the eye across the herb garden and beyond
towards an infinity pool and the lake. Its the
perfect backdrop to a knockout meal.
Well-balanced dishes are punctuated with hits
of green from the start with parmesan-crusted
asparagus tart and seared foie gras with a
potent tarragon sauce leading the appetisers.
Tender veal cheeks sit in verdant swirls of
crushed peas and morels.
For dessert, a crisp sugar snowball of passion
fruit and coffee mousse confirms just how
special this restaurant really is. BG. 00 33 4 50
23 07 90, closdessens.com
Timeless classics
The Greenhouse London
A calm and hidden French restaurant proves Mayfair
can still be full of surprises, says Renate Ruge
This is one very nice garden path to be led down. The warmly lit treelined lane goes through a secret garden in the heart of old Mayfair,
luring regulars away from the hustle and bustle of Piccadilly to the
calming entrance of The Greenhouse, an oasis where chef Arnaud
Bignon cooks sublime dishes that have notched up two Michelin stars.
Enter into a zen-like atmosphere of quiet condence probably
because the restaurant has been going for over 35 years, opening in
1977 and seemingly oblivious to y-by-night competitors that come
and go just a few miles away. It feels cosy inside this softly lit space and
the interior scheme features comfortable lime-green banquettes and
murals made of twigs. Tucked away is the private dining room, where
ivy engravings climb wildly on the walls.
A Drappier champagne aperitif is accompanied by canaps including
tiny fennel and avocado savoury macarons that are simply exquisite.
For starters, a large white stone plate with a pretty ensemble of Orkney
scallops arranged in a shell-like swirl are dotted with dill pure, while tiny
rolls of cucumber come with a refreshing cold yoghurt sorbet, scattered
with edible owers. Across the table my dinner date opts for the more
decadent foie gras dish, tasting as delicious as it looked with avour
combinations of tangy orange, a hint of Indian spice with cardamom
and a sprinkling of chocolate ash.
Wines are chosen from a 3,000-strong list. A sophisticated Burgundy
selected by sommelier Marc Piquet goes perfectly with the main of
plump, pink Welsh lamb chops from Rhug Estate, which are given a
clever if unexpected Japanese twist accompanied by nori, black garlic
and a light yoghurt foam. A Guanaja chocolate and praline, lemon and
nger lime dessert has been painstakingly executed. The uffy chocolate
mousse-style concoction is decorated with owers that grow out of the
pot on a green wire. Its elegance on a plate, and as delicate as those
same petals out in the garden. Not to be outdone, the mandarin and
hazelnut dessert features a curl of chestnut paste and looks
suspiciously like an exotic insect. With its Mayfair prices, it may not
make for a cheap date but its worth it, especially when you are playing
for keeps. RR. 020 7499 3331, greenhouserestaurant.co.uk
FOOD & TRAVEL
103
LOMBARD LIVING PRINCIPE DI SAVOIA, MILAN

In the heart of ever-stylish Milan, flanked by magnolia-laden
streets and residing proudly over Piazza della Repubblica,
the Principe di Savoia blends elegant 19th-century Lombard
design with a warmth that feels more like a boutique hotel.
Just 20 minutes from Linate airport, its well-located, and
has a rather decadent limo service that whizzes guests to
and from the citys hotspots, complimentary to all residents.
Open since 1927, the hotel was used as a wartime
German headquarters, before being commandeered by the
Americans after the Second World War. It has 257 rooms
and 44 suites spread across ten floors, all designed with
comfort as well as style in mind. Grand chandeliers and
original 1920s Italian furniture from the first incarnation add
character to guest rooms that wear rich textiles and house
gigantic beds. Say ciao, bella! to lavish marble bathrooms
with handmade mosaics and then buona notte with Acqua
di Parma toiletries and Egyptian-cotton sheets. The sizable
suites feature hand-painted frescoes and separate seating areas,

while the Presidential Suite wows with its own Romanesque bath.
Renowned for hosting regal guests (Principe di Savoia is a term
used to refer to the Italian royals), high society, and the literati, be
sure to spend some time people-watching over an aperitif at Principe
Bar or Il Salotto lobby lounge, before dining in Fabrizio Cadeis
Acanto Restaurant, where langoustine tagliatelle and suckling pig are
standout dishes. A massage in the rooftop spa, Club 10, is an
absolute must. BG. Doubles from 255, dorchestercollection.com
Places
This month, we look up an exclusive address
visit stylish pads in the Lake District and the
To walk into the newly refurbished Belsfield

Hotel perched above Lake Windermere is to
step into the pages of a glossy homes
magazine. It has been rebranded as the
second Laura Ashley hotel in the UK and the
lust-worthy interiors blend perfectly with the
Georgian property built in 1845, with its high
ceilings, ornate cornicing and wooden
shuttered sash windows.
Sink into comfy velvet love seats in the
library to watch birds swoop over the still
waters of the lake over a spot of afternoon
tea. For dinner, the brasserie serves decent
nibbles like black pea hummus and potted
mackerel and black pudding bon bons, as
well as the requisite steaks and hot pots.
Alternatively, an old fashioned lift takes you
to dinner in a more formal setting, the
stunning dining room (pictured). A fivecourse tasting menu is a Cumbrian culinary

celebration of local produce starting with
white onion velout or oak smoked salmon
with pea shoots. A very tasty roast duck
dish, served with a marmalade jus and crispy
potato rosti, comes recommended, while
white chocolate pana cotta and strawberries
is the star for dessert; not too sickly with just
the right amount of acidity from the berries
to cleanse the palate.
You couldnt ask more of the location. For
an afternoon sojourn, Bowness town is just
steps away, as are the jetties to the piers
where steamers depart on Lakeland cruises
to Ambleside and back in a day for the full
Lake District experience. RR. Doubles from
150. lauraashleyhotels.com
Reviews by Blossom Green; Alex Mead;

Mark Sansom; Gregor Rankin; Renate Ruge
Beauty on the inside BELSFIELD HOTEL, LAKE DISTRICT
Tried&Tasted
SLEEP
Israeli innovator Norman Hotel, Tel Aviv

A rooftop infinity pool atop this modernist building laced with renaissance influence offers
some of the best views of Tel Aviv. If this new boutique offering to the Israeli hotel scene
had nothing else, it would be worth visiting for the pool alone. Throw in some 1920s
elegance, dining that goes from the classically simple to the deliciously exciting and you
begin to see why the hotel has become such a hit so soon after opening. The light airy
classic (entry level) rooms are beautifully understated and offer all the essentials, but the
hotel really comes into its own in the communal areas, bar and restaurant. Sample a fine
apertif at the 1940s colonial style Library Bar before dinner at The Norman Restaurant,
with a French Mediterranean menu and a beautiful secluded garden in which to eat. Take
the traditional afternoon tea: as colloquially colonial as the room you take it in, with a
mixed flavour profile to boot. AM. Doubles from 265. thenorman.com
to stay
in Milan, jet into Tel Aviv for sky-high views,
Cotswolds then get ber trendy in Berlin
Mitte magic GORKI APARTMENTS, BERLIN

Set in the north of Mitte, in an area of east Berlin being rapidly gentried, Gorki
Apartments provides a quiet oasis set around a private triangular courtyard. Rooms
each offer a different style of living and range in size from 33 sq m for two, through to
two expansive penthouses. The turn-of-the-century building comes with high ceilings
and a modern loft-style meets four-poster opulence. Without the fuss of a hotel, rates
are kept pleasingly low though staff can stock up your well-equipped kitchen with
goodies before you arrive. A welcome touch. GR. From 83. gorkiapartments.de
GOURMET BOLTHOLE
The Kingham Plough
Oxfordshire
Long on the radar of Cotswold
diners in the know, The Kingham
Plough is fast gaining status as
one of the best restaurants with
rooms in the UK. Chef Emily
Watkins and husband Miles
Lampson took the property in
2007 and focused on the food.
Her cooking brought accolades by
the stockpot-full, zenithed by
winning the BBCs Great British
Menu last year. This time of year,
the Evesham asparagus tart eats
fantastically, while the duck
Wellington is a tender take on the
classic. The seven bedrooms are
cosy but beautifully styled and after
three meals in the restaurant,
youll be plotting a visit back.
MS. Doubles from 145,
thekinghamplough.co.uk
OFFERS
Reader
This month, get your kids cooking in the
Cotswolds, go for luxury with a gourmet urban
retreat and be inspired by our top recipe picks
offers
BOOKS
FREE KIDS COOKERY CLASSES

For a weekend to remember, inspire your little ones with a trip to
Lucknam Park. This stately home is set in glorious Cotswolds
gardens near Bath, and is offering readers a luxurious double room
for just 290, including breakfast and spa facilities. Book together
with a half-day Adult and Child cookery class, and your child can
learn for free. Youll both get stuck in under the eye of a trained
chef, emerging with new skills and an abundance of goodies.
Quote Food&Travel before 30 November. lucknampark.co.uk
FREE LUXURY SUITE UPGRADE

Enjoy a gastronomic two-night stay for two with breakfast
both mornings, one dinner and one champagne afternoon
tea at Londons St Ermins Hotel. Set behind a courtyard
next to St Jamess Park, it features Adam Handling at Caxton.
Sample the top chefs ten-course tasting menu with paired
wines, and dishes like ashed beef rump with burnt artichoke
and salmon with fennel pollen. From 850 per couple (quote
offer for your free Luxury Suite upgrade). sterminshotel.co.uk
20
15
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Fortune & flavour
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culinary adventure
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Gourmet travelling in the Med
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Places to stay
Weekends away
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Light-hearted Making Bread Together

(Ryland Peters & Small) is ideal for little
bakers with step-by-step photographs
and fun projects treating sourdough
like a pet is our favourite. Get yours for
11.99 (RRP 16.99) by calling 01256
302699 with code GLR 9NI.
Anne-Sophie Pic is the First Lady of
French cuisine with three Michelin stars
and a leading cookery school. Scook
(Jacqui Small) features more than 100
versatile recipes, from French classics to
family favourites. To grab a copy for just
35 (RRP 40) with free p&p, call 01903
828503 quoting APG312.
Clodaghs Irish Kitchen (Kyle Books)
offers a modern twist on traditional
comfort food, demonstrating the extent
to which Irelands culinary scene has
developed in recent years. Think nettle
gnocchi and beef and Guinness pie
thickened with chocolate. Only 15.99
(RRP 19.99) online. kylebooks.com
A keen diver and former MasterChef
winner, chef Mat Follas celebrates sh
and seafood in this, his rst book (Ryland
Peters & Small). It includes raw, smoked
and grilled dishes among its varied range
and includes timeless tips. Pick up a
copy for 13.99 (RRP 19.99) by calling
01256 302699 with code GLR CN1.
Nicola Graimes The Salad Bowl (Ryland
Peters & Small) is a must-have for healthconscious foodies. Recipes range from
shellsh with home-sprouted seeds to
tangy Asian avours such as yuzu duck,
perfect for summer suppers. Its 10.99
(RRP 14.99), when you call 01256
302699, quoting code GLR CM9.
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FOOD & TRAVEL
106
Tried&Tasted
DRINK
wine
To identify a wines character, you have to consider terroir how soil, grape
and grower inuence what ends up in the bottle, says Adam Lechmere
The
When you see a wine described as

being terroir-driven, do you ever
wonder what that means exactly? Its
a much-discussed term for the total
natural environment of any vineyard
site, according to a favourite source,
The Oxford Companion to Wine.
There is another denition that
Warren Winiarski, one of the founding
fathers of modern Californian wine, is
fond of: The Three Gs: the grape, the
ground and the guy (or gal). Because
the winemaker, many argue, is as
important to terroir as the topography,
climate, geology and hydrology (how
water behaves in the soil).
Terroir at rst appears perfectly
simple: its the effect all those things
listed above have on the vine. The
terroir of Ribeira Sacra in Galicia
includes hillsides of slate so steep the
pickers hang onto ropes; it includes
sodden winters and scorching
summers. The terroir of the Atacama
Desert in northern Chile means no
rain at all the vines are hydrated only
by the mists that roll in off the Pacic.
The terroir of the vineyards on the
island of Mazzorbo in the Venice
Lagoon includes acqua alta (high
Five great
tide), adding salt water to the mix. The

best wines from each of these regions
have typicity that Holy Grail of the
winemaker, something in the wine
that says it can come only from that
place and nowhere else. Think of
garigue (the Mediterraneans shrubby
vegetation), a combination of sunblasted earth, juniper, sage and pine
resin that imbues the wines of
Provence. Ahh, it tastes of mountains,
one of my colleagues said of the
lovely Petite Arvine Ive recommended
below. Its a wonderful quality. Ive
chosen these ve as theyre all
emblematic of a particular terroir.
But, of course, all wine is made
a great winemaker manipulates
grapes to interpret the essence of the
land. They will always insist they do
nothing. I just try not to bugger up
good fruit, the Australian virtuoso
John Duval of Penfolds once told me.
But, from pruning methods to barrel
size, making wine requires an endless
series of decisions, each one of
which will affect the end result. A few
years ago in New Zealand, ten
veteran winemakers were each given
a parcel of riesling from the same
column
From
pruning
methods to
barrel size,
making wine
requires an
endless
series of
decisions
vineyard, and told to make wine.

All were fascinatingly different. Some
were sweet, some drier, some aged
on lees and some not; textures were
varied, fruit characteristics ran the
spectrum of tropical to citrus, and
so on. But the grapes themselves
originated from the same vineyard.
Notions of typicity and, therefore,
terroir can also change. Twenty-ve
years ago, Priorat, that rugged corner
of northeastern Spain, turned out
mighty reds aged in new oak inkyblack monsters that took a dozen
years to soften. Now Sara Prez, the
daughter of a pioneer of the region,
uses amphorae instead of barrels at
Mas Martinet and Venus vineyards.
The terroir is the same but shes
decided its best expressed with the
gentle touch of clay rather than the
sledgehammer of oak; the resulting
wines are marvels of restraint.
Its like music. An orchestral piece
sounds very different in the hands of
different conductors, just as the way
in which Prez interprets her terroir is
very different to her fathers. Terroir
is everything, but only if you know
what to do with it.
terroir wines
Crozes Hermitage
Les Meysonniers,
M Chapoutier,
France 2012, 16
Raspberry leaf
and potpourri
aromas with
hints of white
pepper. Soft,
full-bodied,
and rich
tannins. Enjoy
this with spicy
lamb tagine.
Sainsburys
Petite Arvine
Tradition, Domaine
des Muses,
Switzerland
2013, 30
Superb sweet
lemon and honey
offset by salinity,
apricot and peach.
Deceptively
powerful, yet as
fresh as edelweiss.
Drink with cured
meat and Gruyre.
Wine Society
Jenkyn Place Brut,

UK 2009, 24.99
A sparkling wine
thats as English as
Jeeves and Wooster.
Appley, hedgerow
avours, brioche
dryness and
lovely zz that
dances on
the tongue.
Serve at
11am.
Waitrose
Cellar
Nautilus
Marlborough Pinot
Noir, New Zealand
2011, 22
Intense, deep black
fruit nose. Spiced,
then cherry and
raspberry on the
palate, with
trufe, earth and
classic barnyard
notes. Complex,
dry, elegant.
Good with duck.
Majestic
Ontan Ecolgico
Rioja, Spain 2012,
9.99
Blackberry fruit on the
nose and dry,
fresh tannins.
A lovely, classic,
characterful rioja,
with restrained
black fruit and
hints of red
cherry. Drink with
rack of lamb.
John Hattersley
Wines
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RECIPES
THE
COLLECTION
For better-tasting food and your own peace of mind, use sustainably and locally produced ingredients if possible. Eggs should always be free-range.
1 teaspoon is 5ml; 1 tablespoon is 15ml
In season Cherries
pages 20-24
Cherry and rose petal jam

FILLS 2 x 350ML JARS
Duck, cherry and tarragon

salad with hazelnuts and
sweet balsamic dressing
SERVES 4
Serve with scones and clotted

cream. The jam will keep for six
months in a cool dark place but,
once opened, store in the fridge.
750g light red cherries
750g jam sugar
finely grated zest and juice of 2
unwaxed lemons
6tbsp (about 6g) dried rose
petals (available from major
supermarkets and online)
2tsp rosewater
Pit the cherries, then wrap the

stones in muslin and tie them into
a bag. Put the cherries in a large
bowl with the stones. Pour over
the sugar and leave overnight.
Tip the cherries, sugar and bag
of stones into a large pan and
add the lemon zest and juice.
Heat very slowly until the sugar
has dissolved, then add the rose
petals. Bring to the boil for about
10 minutes. Remove the bag of
stones and put them in a sieve set
over a bowl. When cold, squeeze
the liquid into the jam.
Test the jam for set by putting
a spoonful onto a cold plate. Put
in the fridge for a few minutes
and push your finger through the
mixture; if it wrinkles, its done.
Add the rosewater and stir well.
Ladle into sterilised jars, cover the
surface with 2 pieces of waxed
paper, seal or add lids and label.
100ml balsamic vinegar

3tbsp flower-scented honey
2 x 160g duck breasts
10 whole sprigs tarragon
2tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 radicchio
2 Little Gem lettuce, leaves
separated
300g light red cherries, pitted
75g toasted hazelnuts, roughly
crushed
Put the balsamic in a small pan

and reduce to just less than half.
Stir in the honey, then sit the base
in a large bowl of cold water and
leave to get cold.
Score the duck skin at 1.5cm
intervals and season on both
sides. Pour 1tbsp of the cold
balsamic mixture in a dish just
large enough to take the duck
breasts side by side, reserving the
rest for later. Add half the tarragon
then put the duck, skin side up,
on top (you dont want the liquid
on the skin). Cover and marinate
for about 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to
220C/425F/Gas 7. Lift the duck
out of the balsamic marinade,
allowing any excess to drip off. Pat
the duck dry and put it in a cold
non-stick frying pan on a
medium-high heat for about
4 minutes, until the fat renders off
and the skin is nicely golden. Take
the duck out of the pan and pour

off the fat, then wipe the pan with
kitchen paper. Put the duck back
into the pan skin side up and tuck
the tarragon branches from the
marinade underneath.
If your pan handle isnt
ovenproof, wrap well in foil before
putting in the oven for 10 minutes
for rare. Put the duck on a plate
to rest for 45 minutes-1 hour. Put
the balsamic used for marinating
the duck in a small saucepan and
bring to the boil. Leave to cool
and add the reserved balsamic
mixture. When the duck has
cooled, pour any juices that have
come out of the meat into the
balsamic mixture. Whisk in the
extra virgin olive oil and season.
Remove the core from the
radicchio, shred and put in a
serving bowl. Add the Little Gem
lettuce leaves, along with sprigs
from the rest of the tarragon.
Slice the duck breasts and
arrange on top, then add the
cherries. Drizzle over the dressing
and scatter with the crushed
hazelnuts to serve.
Whole cherry jelly

with chocolate mousse
and cream
SERVES 4
500g light red cherries,

stalks removed
125ml elderflower cordial
1 sheet leaf gelatine
For the mousse

100g dark chocolate
(75% cocoa solids)
100ml double cream
100ml whipping cream
For the topping

50ml double cream
50ml whipping cream
2tsp elderflower cordial
Put the cherries and elderflower

cordial into a medium saucepan
and slowly bring to a simmer for
about 10 minutes until the cherries
are soft. Tip them into a bowl
and leave to cool.
Strain the juices from the
cherries into a measuring jug
(there should be about 200ml).
Remove and discard the stones
from the cherries.
Soak the gelatine in cold water
for 5 minutes. Put 2tbsp of the
cherry juice into a small saucepan.
Squeeze the gelatine to remove
excess water, add to the pan,
then gently heat until dissolved.
Add this to the rest of the juices
in the jug, stirring to combine.
Pour the cherry juice into the
FOOD & TRAVEL
113
RECIPES
base of 4 serving glasses, to a
depth of about 1.5cm. Put them
on a tray in the fridge (to get an
asymmetrical finish, you could
place them on a tray and prop
up with tissue so the glasses
are tipped slightly).
When the jelly has set, break
the chocolate into a medium
heatproof bowl and pour in the
double cream. Sit the bowl over
a small pan of simmering water
ensuring the base doesnt
touch the water, then melt for
4 minutes. Remove and stir gently
to melt completely; leave to cool
for 15 minutes.
Whisk the whipping cream
to form soft peaks and fold into
the chocolate mixture. Take the
glasses out of the fridge, and
divide the chocolate mousse
among them. Return to the
fridge for about 1 hour until the
chocolate mousse is set.
Divide the reserved cherries
among the glasses and return
again to the fridge. To serve, whisk
the double cream and whipping
cream for the topping together
with the elderflower cordial until it
is firm enough to scoop on top of
the lightly set cherries.
Star pic
pages 40-45
Cherry, coconut and

honeysuckle clafoutis
SERVES 4-6
SERVES 4
Honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica)

flowers are edible, although the
berries are poisonous. It flowers at
the same time as the first English
cherries, so if you have some
in your garden, scatter it over
this clafoutis before serving. Get
yourself a cheap cherry stoner
they are worth buying and can
easily be bought online.
3 large eggs
3tbsp caster sugar, plus 2tbsp
2tbsp kirsch
tsp almond essence
3-4tbsp coconut flour
300ml coconut milk
20g butter, melted and slightly
cooled, plus a little unmelted
butter for greasing
600g light red cherries, pitted
honeysuckle blossoms, to
scatter (optional)
Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/

Gas 6. Break the eggs into a
large bowl and whisk in the sugar,
kirsch and almond essence. Sift
the flour over the mixture and
whisk it in, along with the coconut
milk and melted butter, until you
have a smooth batter.
Grease a 22cm diameter x 5cm
deep ovenproof dish with butter.
Spoon in 1tbsp sugar and swirl
to coat the butter completely. Add
the cherries to the dish. Pour
over the batter, dust with the
remaining 1tbsp sugar and cook
for 35-40 minutes until just firm
and evenly golden. Cool for 10
minutes and serve scattered with
honeysuckle blossoms, if using.
114
FOOD & TRAVEL
Sardine rillettes
with whisky and
cauliflower cream
cream until stiff and gently fold

into the cauliflower pure.
Preheat the oven to
180C/350F/Gas 4. For the
Melba toast, use a small glass to
cut out 12 circles from the bread
slices. Brush with butter, then
bake for 5 minutes, until golden.
At the very last minute before
serving, arrange alternate layers
of Melba toast, cauliflower
cream and rillettes in a stack.
Finish each stack with a slice of
Melba toast. Mix the reserved
chopped cauliflower florets with
the vinaigrette (made by whisking
together the vinegar and olive oil)
and the coriander, then divide this
among the top slices of Melba
toast. Season.
If you prefer, you can buy fresh

sardines for the rillettes and get
the fishmonger to fillet them.
Fry the fillets in olive oil for a few
minutes and leave to cool, then
follow the recipe as below.
For the sardine rillettes
6 large canned sardines
100g salted butter
2tbsp whisky
30ml double or whipping
cream
For the cauliflower cream

200g cauliflower
85ml double cream
For the Melba toast

6 slices white bread
50g clarified butter
Jellied ham and

parsley terrine
SERVES 4
For the vinaigrette
For the mushroom jelly
splash of sherry vinegar

3tbsp olive oil
sprig coriander
400g button mushrooms

1 onion
25g salted butter
splash olive oil
2 egg whites
10g sheets leaf gelatine
Lightly crush the drained sardines

with a fork. Blend them in a
blender or food processor with
the softened salted butter and
the whisky, then press through
a sieve. Whip the cream and
delicately fold it through the
sardine mixture.
To make the cauliflower cream,
reserve a few of the cauliflower
florets and chop them finely. Cook
the rest of the cauliflower in salted
boiling water until tender; drain.
Blend until smooth, then add half
of the cream. Whip the remaining
For the jellied ham with parsley

1 shallot
50ml olive oil
400g ham in one piece,
fat and rind removed
10g cornichons
1tbsp finely chopped parsley
1tbsp finely chopped tarragon
10g capers
250ml mushroom jelly
sauce gribiche and croutons,
to serve (optional)
RECIPES
First, make a mushroom stock.
Trim the mushrooms. Finely chop
the onion, then cook gently in the
butter and olive oil for 3-4 minutes.
Slice half of the mushrooms,
add to the onion and cook for
5 minutes. Pour in 750ml water,
then cook for another 30 minutes.
Strain through a sieve into a clean
saucepan, season lightly with salt
and leave to cool.
Clarify the cold stock as follows:
chop the remaining mushrooms
and mix them with the egg whites,
then add to the stock in the
saucepan. Bring to the boil, lower
the heat and leave to cook over
a very gentle heat for about 10
minutes. Strain through a sieve
or colander lined with muslin or a
clean tea towel. Soak the gelatine
in iced water for a few minutes
to soften it.
Mix 250ml of the hot mushroom
stock with the drained and
squeezed-out gelatine. Check the
seasoning and adjust as required,
then set aside.
When the stock has cooled
a little, start to make the jellied
ham with parsley. Finely chop the
shallot, then cook, stirring, in a
saucepan with the olive oil over
a gentle heat for 3-4 minutes,
without letting it colour. Drain the
shallot of oil and put it to one side.
Dice the ham and the cornichons.
Mix together the shallot, ham,
cornichons, herbs and capers,
then place in a terrine mould or
divide among 4 ramekins. Cover
with the almost-cold mushroom
stock and leave to set in the
fridge for about 2 hours, until you
have a firm jelly.
Unmould the terrine and serve
with sauce gribiche, if you like.
Croutons of bread, such as
baguette, are also lovely with this.
Mackerel escabeche
SERVES 4
1 carrot
bulb fennel
1 onion
1 garlic clove
For the escabeche

250ml white wine
250ml water
10 coriander seeds
pinch roughly crushed
peppercorns
pinch coarse salt
juice of 1 lemon
sprig thyme
1 small bay leaf
75ml olive oil
75ml white balsamic vinegar
4 mackerel fillets
Peel and trim the carrot, then cut

into rounds. Wash and finely slice
the fennel. Peel and finely chop
the onion. Peel and halve the
garlic clove, removing any green
shoot from its centre.
To make the escabeche,
mix together all the ingredients
except for the mackerel in a wide
saucepan. Bring to the boil,
then lower the heat and leave the
mixture to cook over a very gentle
heat for 20 minutes.
While the escabeche is
cooking, rinse the mackerel fillets
thoroughly under cold running
water. Using small tongs or
tweezers, remove any remaining
bones from the fish, then chill.
When the escabeche is ready,
strain it through a fine sieve into
a clean saucepan, reserving the
vegetables and flavourings.
Season the mackerel fillets with
a little salt and put them into a
non-metallic dish.
Bring the escabeche back to
a simmer, then pour over the fish.
Add the reserved vegetables and
flavourings, cover with cling film
and leave to cool. Once cool, chill
in the fridge for 2 hours.
When the mackerel and
escabeche are well chilled, stir
the juices a little then serve.
If you can, prepare this the
night before you want to serve it:
the longer the mackerel marinates
in the escabeche with the
vegetables, the better it will be.
Duck liver with

seared melon
Vegetable tart with young

parmesan cream
SERVES 4
SERVES 4
small cantaloupe melon

(not too ripe)
4 x 80-110g duck liver slices
8 fresh or blanched almonds
For the parmesan cream

100g young parmesan
200ml whole milk
For the shortcrust pastry

Peel and deseed the melon,
then cut eight slices from it, each
5mm thick. Cut these slices into
rectangles. Blend the rest of the
melon, then put the pure in a
saucepan, bring to the boil and
reduce until syrupy.
Season the duck liver slices
and remove any fat or sinew.
Cook them over a high heat in a
frying pan for 1-2 minutes, turning
once or twice, depending on
their thickness.
Drain on kitchen paper, then
keep warm in a low oven. Wipe
out the frying pan, then add the
melon rectangles and quickly sear
over a high heat, turning them to
colour both sides.
Place 2 melon rectangles on
each plate and top with a warm
duck liver slice. Dress with a little
of the reduced melon pure.
Scatter with salt and garnish with
the fresh almonds.
For more garnish ideas,
you could garnish with roughly
chopped toasted almonds. And
to make it even better, serve
the duck and melon with some
delicious almond milk: combine
250ml cream, 250ml milk, a
splash of amaretto, 125g roasted
almonds and a little salt and
pepper in a saucepan, then
simmer until reduced by
three-quarters you want quite
a thick sauce.
One tip: sear the liver without
cooking it completely at the start.
Then, when your guests sit down
to eat, reheat it in the oven.
100g butter
50g ground almonds
100g plain flour
tsp fine salt
1tsp dried lavender flowers
1 whole egg, plus 1 egg yolk
to glaze
4 spring onions
splash olive oil, plus extra
for finishing off
100ml vegetable stock,
plus extra for finishing off
50g baby broad beans
50g petits pois
8 asparagus spears
100g mangetout
few cauliflower florets
bunch radishes
1 garlic clove, peeled, left whole
and squashed
sprig thyme
splash aged sherry vinegar
To make the cream, finely grate

the parmesan (try to use a very
young parmesan as it will melt
more easily), then put it in a
saucepan with the milk. Heat
gently to melt the cheese, then
remove from the heat and blend.
Strain through a fine sieve,
then season with a little salt if
necessary and keep to one side
at room temperature.
For the shortcrust pastry, put all
the ingredients except the egg in
an electric mixer and mix to form
a crumbly dough. Add the whole
egg and mix again until the dough
comes together in a ball. On a
work surface, roll out the dough
FOOD & TRAVEL
115
RECIPES
to a thickness of 2.5mm, wrap
in cling film and freeze for 15
minutes. Preheat the oven to
150C/300F/Gas 2. Using a
7.5cm pastry cutter, cut out 4
circles, brush with egg yolk, then
bake for 15 minutes. Remove from
the oven and leave to cool.
Peel and trim the spring onions,
then cut in half. Saut them
in olive oil for 2 minutes, then
add the vegetable stock and
cook slowly until the onions are
meltingly soft. Meanwhile, cook
the baby broad beans, petits
pois, asparagus and mangetout
separately in boiling salted water,
one after the other, for about 23
minutes. Refresh in cold water,
then drain. Cook the cauliflower
florets very briefly in boiling water.
Slice the radishes very finely,
using a mandolin if possible,
then chill in iced water for about
10 minutes to firm them up,
then drain thoroughly.
Just before serving, heat a little
olive oil in a frying pan and saut
all the vegetables (except the
radishes) with the garlic and thyme
for 2-3 minutes. Stir in the vinegar
and a little extra vegetable stock
and leave to cook for a minute.
Tip the vegetables into a
colander to drain, removing the
garlic and thyme, then put them
into a large bowl and season
to taste with a little salt. Put a
shortcrust pastry disc onto each
plate, decorate with a mixture of
the vegetables and some radish
slices, then season with salt and a
few drops of olive oil. Dress
with the parmesan cream and
serve immediately.
116
FOOD & TRAVEL
Fillet of marinated salmon

with petits pois and
wasabi mousseline
Beetroot salad with

Arabica coffee salt
SERVES 4
SERVES 4
4 salmon fillets
2tbsp fine salt
150ml olive oil
1 lemongrass stalk
10g fresh root ginger
pea shoots, to garnish
For the mousseline

600g petits pois
150ml vegetable stock, chilled
small knob wasabi
For the cooking oil

500ml grapeseed oil
1 lemongrass stalk
10g fresh root ginger
Sprinkle the salmon fillets with

the salt and leave to rest for 6
minutes, then rinse in cold water.
Mix the olive oil with the chopped
lemongrass and ginger, reserving
a little lemongrass for garnish.
Immerse the salmon in this
marinade. Refrigerate for 3 hours
so the fish absorbs the flavours.
While the salmon is marinating,
make the mousseline. Cook
the petits pois in salted boiling
water for 5 minutes (they should
be very soft), then refresh by
immersing them immediately in a
bowl of water and ice. Drain the
peas, reserving a few for garnish,
then blend with the well-chilled
vegetable stock to make a smooth
pure. Keep to one side.
Put the oil, lemongrass and
ginger into a saucepan and heat
to 60C/140F (the oil should be
hot, but not bubbling). Carefully
submerge the salmon and leave
for 8 minutes, maintaining the oil at
the same temperature.
Meanwhile, gently warm the
mousseline and stir in the wasabi.
Season. To serve, drain the
salmon and garnish with pea
shoots, peas and lemongrass.
Melba toast with lardo

di Colonnata and
Comt cheese
SERVES 4
Lardo di Colonnata is from

Tuscany. Made from pork fat, it
comes in a thick rectangular slab:
the top is covered in salt, black
pepper, rosemary and garlic, while
the lower part is the pork rind.
Lardo is pinkish-white, and tastes
very fresh, almost sweet.
100g white bread
4 slices lardo di Colonnata
(available from good Italian delis
and online)
8 slices Comt cheese, cut into
5cm squares
Sarawak pepper

Gas 4. Slice the bread as thinly
as possible. Cover each slice with
a piece of lardo and a slice of
Comt, then top with another
slice of bread, as if you were
making a sandwich.
Put the Melba sandwiches
onto a baking sheet and cover
with baking parchment, then put
another baking sheet on top of the
parchment. Bake for 10 minutes.
Remove from the oven, take off
the second baking sheet and the
parchment, then cut the toasts to
the shape required. Leave them
on the baking sheet.
Preheat the grill. At the very last
minute, just before serving, put
another slice of Comt on top of
each Melba toast and grill for
2 minutes, or just long enough
for the cheese to melt. Grind over
some Sarawak pepper and serve
the Melba toasts hot.
12 red beetroot
1 white beetroot
2 golden beetroot
2 Chioggia beetroot
For the vinaigrette

1tbsp sherry vinegar
3tbsp olive oil
For the coffee salt

5 Arabica coffee beans, such as
Blue Mountain
50g Maldon salt
To serve
1 Chioggia beetroot
1 golden beetroot
Wash the beetroot in running

water, then group them according
to size. Put the first group in the
basket of a pressure cooker, fill
the base with water and add
some coarse salt, then bring the
cooker up to pressure. Cook small
beetroot (up to 2cm diameter) for
5-6 minutes; medium beetroot
(4-6cm diameter) for 7-8 minutes
and large beetroot (from 8-12cm)
for 9-15 minutes. At the end
of each cooking time, take the
pressure cooker off the heat, let
the pressure drop, then remove,
peel and quarter the beetroot. Put
to one side. Make the vinaigrette:
stir a pinch of salt into the vinegar
dissolved, then mix in the olive oil.
Grind the coffee beans in a
coffee mill, then use a mortar and
pestle to crush them even more
finely. Mix with the salt, then keep
to one side. Peel, trim and finely
slice the raw beetroot. Add to a
bowl of iced water for 10 minutes
to make them crunchy, then drain.
Dress the cooked beetroot with
vinaigrette and arrange on plates,
then add the raw beetroot. Scatter
over the coffee salt to serve.
RECIPES
When the boat comes in

pages 46-51
Halibut steaks with cider

cream sauce, crackling
and mash
SERVES 4
4 strips pork belly skin (ask your

butcher to cut them 1cm wide
x 30cm long), rinsed
4 halibut steaks
(each about 150g)
50g butter
For the cider cream sauce

200ml dry cider
100ml sweet apple juice
50ml double cream
For the mash

1kg Maris Piper potatoes
150g butter
100ml double cream

Gas 1. First, prepare the perfect
crackling. Place a wire rack over a
baking tray, then lay the strips of
pork belly skin on the rack the
tray is to catch the fat and any
excess salt. Cover generously
with enough salt to form a layer of
salt crystals (most of this will fall
off during cooking). Cook in the
preheated oven for 45 minutes.
Check that the crackling is crispy
and continue cooking if not fully
hardened (you should expect the
skin to curl and bend as it cooks).
For the cider cream, pour
the cider and apple juice into a
saucepan and bring to a simmer
over a gentle heat. Simmer for
about 15 minutes to burn off the
alcohol and reduce the volume by

a third. Add the cream and a small
pinch of salt to finish.
Next, prepare the mash. Peel
and dice the potatoes, then boil
in a pan of unsalted boiling water
until they just start to crumble.
Drain off the water and leave to
dry in the colander for 10 minutes.
Mash the dried potatoes to a
smooth consistency (I strongly
recommend buying a potato ricer
if you like to achieve a velvety
mash every time). In a large
saucepan, gently melt the butter
and cream together, then add the
mashed potatoes and heat, stirring
with a wooden spoon to combine.
When the mash is ready it will
pull away from the side of the
saucepan when stirred. Season
the mash generously: it will take
about 1tsp salt to bring out the
flavour but add this in stages
and taste as you go, so as not
to over-season.
When the crackling is nearly
done, season the halibut steaks
with a little salt, then heat the
butter in a large frying pan over a
medium heat, until just foaming.
Carefully place the halibut in the
pan and cook for 2 minutes on
each side. Transfer to a baking
sheet and bake in the preheated
oven for no more than 5 minutes
to finish: the fish is cooked
perfectly when a toothpick can be
pushed through the thickest part
without resistance.
Put a generous portion of
mash onto each serving plate and
place a halibut steak on top of
each one. Pour over some cider
cream sauce and place a strip of
crackling on top to finish.
Skate with beurre noisette
Teriyaki salmon
SERVES 2
SERVES 4
plain flour
2 medium skate or ray wings
(each about 500600g)
vegetable oil
250g butter
1 lemon, cut into wedges
Take care to only use a medium

or low heat when cooking this
dish as the sauce can catch and
burn easily due to the high sugar
content. Do not leave it cooking
unsupervised.

Gas 4. Cover a plate with flour,
season with a generous pinch of
salt and drag each wing through
the flour to coat it evenly on both
sides, patting off any excess.
Put the floured wings onto
2 large baking sheets lined with
silicone mats, with the thin meat
side down (wings are thicker on
one side than the other). Drizzle
over a little oil, rub it all over
the top side then turn the wing
over and repeat.
Bake in the preheated oven
for 15 minutes. The wing should
be 55C/130F at the thickest
point when tested with a meat
thermometer.
Meanwhile, make the hazelnut
butter (beurre noisette). Heat
the butter in a saucepan it
will begin to foam as the water
particles in the butter boil off. As
soon as the butter stops foaming,
the temperature will rise rapidly:
you need to take it off the heat
as soon as it starts to colour a
light brown. There should be
a distinctive hazelnut aroma at
this stage. To halt the cooking
process, carefully squeeze a
wedge of lemon into the butter.
To serve, simply place a wing
on a warmed plate, pour over a
generous portion of the beurre
noisette, a squeeze of lemon juice
and a pinch of sea salt.
100g long-grain rice

4 salmon fillets (each about
120g)
2tbsp sesame oil
2 heads pak choi, sliced in half
lengthways
5cm piece fresh root ginger,
peeled and finely grated
2 spring onions, thinly sliced
For the teriyaki sauce

200ml mirin
50ml soy sauce
100g caster sugar
Begin by making the teriyaki

sauce. Put the mirin, soy sauce
and sugar in a small pan set
over a gentle heat. Simmer for
2 minutes and stir until combined.
Remove the pan from the heat
and set aside.
Next, cook the rice. Bring
300ml water to the boil in a
saucepan set over a medium
heat. Add the rice and a pinch of
salt, and bring back to the boil.
Once boiling, take the pan off the
heat, cover and set aside to allow
the rice to cook for 15 minutes.
To prepare the salmon fillets,
carefully remove the skin using a
small sharp knife and check the
flesh for bones with your fingertips,
removing and discarding any you
find with fish tweezers.
Meanwhile, set a non-stick
frying pan over a medium heat
FOOD & TRAVEL
117
RECIPES
and pour in the oil. Heat until it
just starts to smoke, then carefully
place the salmon fillets in the pan.
When the fillets are half-cooked,
add the teriyaki sauce to the pan.
Cover and simmer for 5 minutes.
Carefully spoon over some of the
teriyaki sauce, then remove the
salmon using a fish slice. Transfer
to a clean plate and cover with foil
to keep warm.
Turn up the heat and reduce
the remaining sauce for 2 minutes,
until it has started to thicken.
Place the pak choi cut-side
down in the pan, cover and cook
for 1 minute so that it just cooks in
the steam.
To serve, drain the cooked
rice and place a spoonful in each
large bowl. Place some pak choi
on top, then the salmon. Sprinkle
some of the grated ginger over
the plate then add sliced spring
onions to finish.
Stargazy pie
SERVES 4
2 carrots, peeled and

finely diced
2 celery stalks, finely diced
2 onions, peeled and finely
diced
50g butter
600ml fish stock (see below)
300g mussels, cleaned
100ml double cream
20ml Pernod (or other
aniseed-based liqueur)
bunch flat-leaf parsley, finely
chopped
150g hake, diced
100g ready-made puff pastry
4 whole sardines (100g), scaled,
gutted and cut in half
1 egg, beaten
For the fish stock

4 onions, peeled and roughly
chopped
8 carrots, thinly sliced
8 celery stalks, thinly sliced
2 tomatoes, cut into quarters
zest of 1 lemon
2l cold water
1kg fish bones
100g uncooked prawns,
shells on
For the buttered new potatoes

300g new potatoes, boiled
50g butter, melted
small bunch flat-leaf parsley,
chopped
First, make the fish stock. Put all

of the ingredients in a large pan
set over a lowmedium heat, bring
118
FOOD & TRAVEL
to a low simmer and cook for

15 minutes. Reduce the heat and
continue to cook for a further 45
minutes. Pour the liquid through
a fine mesh sieve into a jug and
discard the pulp.
Put the carrots, celery and
onions in a large saucepan, with
the butter, set over a low heat.
Cook for 10 minutes, then add
600ml of the fish stock and bring
to a simmer. Add the mussels and
cook until they have all opened.
Take the pan off the heat and
strain the contents, reserving the
liquor. Remove the mussels and
shell them, discarding the shells.
Set the mussel meat aside.
Pour the liquor back into the
saucepan, add the cream and
bring to a rolling simmer for about
10 minutes, until the volume of
the liquor has reduced by onethird. Stir through the Pernod then
transfer the liquor to a jug, cover
and chill in the fridge.
Preheat the oven to
180C/350F/Gas 4. To assemble
the pie, pour the liquor into a
casserole dish, about 30cm in
diameter, and season with a pinch
of salt and pepper. Sprinkle with
parsley and add the hake and
reserved mussels.
Roll out the pastry on a lightly
floured surface to a thickness of
3mm. Lift the pastry using the
rolling pin and carefully drape over
the casserole dish. Trim the edges
with the back of a knife and make
a pattern around the edges using
a fork. With a sharp knife, slice
through the pastry in eight places.
Poke the head and tail of each
sardine through the openings
in the pastry lid. Brush with the
beaten egg to form a glaze, taking
extra care to seal the pastry
around the sardines.
Bake the pie in the preheated
oven for 20-25 minutes, or until
golden brown.
Serve with buttered new
potatoes: toss the boiled
new potatoes in the melted
butter and chopped parsley.
Seafood gumbo
SERVES 4
150ml vegetable oil

100g plain flour
200g okra, finely chopped
2 onions, peeled and finely
chopped
2 celery stalks, finely chopped
2 green peppers, finely chopped
150g sliced cooking chorizo
1l fish stock (see below)
1tsp cayenne pepper
400g canned chopped tomatoes
dash Tabasco
200g white fish fillets (such as
whiting, pollack or hake), diced
8 uncooked large prawns
boiled rice, to serve (optional)
small bunch flat-leaf parsley,
chopped
For the fish stock

4 onions, peeled and roughly
chopped
8 carrots, thinly sliced
8 celery stalks, thinly sliced
2 tomatoes, cut into quarters
zest of 1 lemon
2l cold water
1kg fish bones
100g uncooked prawns,
shells on
First, make the fish stock. Put all

of the ingredients in a large pan
set over a lowmedium heat, bring
to a low simmer and cook for 15
minutes. Reduce the heat and
continue to cook for a further 45
minutes. Pour the liquid through
a fine mesh sieve into a jug and
discard the pulp.
Make a roux by mixing 120ml of
the oil with the flour in a saucepan
set over a low heat. Bring the
temperature up slowly, stirring
RECIPES
continuously, until the mixture has
a colour similar to a cup of milky
tea with practice you may
want to make this darker for a
deeper flavour. Once the colour
is achieved, take off the heat
and keep stirring for a couple
of minutes until the roux has
cooled down.
In a separate pan, sweat the
chopped vegetables and chorizo
over a medium heat for a couple
of minutes. Slowly add the roux,
stirring. Once combined and hot,
add 1litre of the stock by pouring it
into the mixture, while still stirring.
Add the cayenne pepper and
canned tomatoes and stir well.
Simmer this mixture for 45
minutes to allow the flavours to
infuse. Leave the mixture as it is or
blend using a hand-held electric
blender to make a smooth, thick
sauce. (I prefer it unblended but if
serving with rice, it is better when
blended.) Add the Tabasco to give
a bit more heat, then season with
salt to taste. The sauce can now
be kept in the fridge or frozen and
the seafood added fresh when
you are ready to serve.
Just before serving, add the
fish and prawns to the sauce and
simmer until the prawns have
cooked and are pink in colour.
Remove from the heat and garnish
with chopped parsley. Serve
straight away on its own or with
boiled rice, and enjoy.
Emerald smiles
pages 52-56
Dillisk ravioli of Irish

smoked salmon and
goats cheese with
watercress pesto
SERVES 6
Prawn dogs with

seafood ketchup
SERVES 4
16 extra-large prawns, heads

and shells on
8 white finger rolls, cut in half
and spread with mayonnaise,
to serve
dried onions, to serve
For the dry rub

2tsp ground dried onion powder
1tsp ground dried garlic powder
1tsp smoked paprika
tsp cayenne powder
tsp salt
tsp ground white pepper
For the seafood ketchup

vegetable oil, for frying
1 onion, peeled and diced
2 garlic cloves, peeled
and sliced
2tsp dried chilli flakes
800g canned chopped tomatoes
2tsp celery salt
2tsp caster sugar
1tsp balsamic vinegar
tsp xanthan gum, to thicken
(optional)
Prepare the prawns in advance by

removing and reserving the heads
and shells and trimming out and
discarding the waste line. You can
refrigerate the prepared prawns for
up to 48 hours.
Make the seafood ketchup well
in advance so it has time to cool.
Place the heads and shells of the
prawns in a hot dry pan set over
a medium heat and cook until

they start to catch and brown,
add a splash of oil and the onion
and stir to quickly cook the onion.
Next add the garlic and chilli flakes
and continue to cook for about
30 seconds, continuously stirring
so the garlic doesnt burn. Add
the canned tomatoes with the
remaining ketchup ingredients
except for the xanthan gum,
reduce the heat and keep at a
low simmer for about 15 minutes.
Blend the mixture to a pure using
a hand-held electric blender and
pass through a fine mesh sieve
set over a jug to remove any
lumps and shell fragments. If the
resulting sauce is at all watery,
add the xanthan gum, return to a
low simmer and blend to combine
it into the sauce. Xanthan gum
can be found in the baking aisle in
most supermarkets and is used as
a thickening agent it is far better
than cornflour in my opinion.
Put all of the dry rub ingredients
in an extra-large, sealable
sandwich bag. Add the prepared
prawns to the bag, seal and shake
to coat well.
Place the prawns in a scorching
hot, dry pan over a high heat or
on a barbecue and cook for about
1 minute on each side, until they
have coloured through.
Put 2 cooked prawns in each
finger roll spread with mayonnaise,
cover with a generous dollop of
the seafood ketchup and sprinkle
with dried onion before serving.
1 quantity fresh dillisk pasta

(see recipe on page 120)
150g soft goats cheese
150g smoked salmon, cut
into small pieces
For the watercress pesto

110g fresh watercress
150ml extra virgin olive oil
25g pine nuts, toasted
2 garlic cloves, peeled
50g parmesan cheese, grated
Cut the dillisk pasta into strips

about 10cm wide and place
teaspoonfuls of goats cheese
at 7.5cm intervals down each
strip. Season the smoked salmon
with salt and pepper and place a
teaspoonful of it on top of each
piece of cheese.
Fold the pasta over the filling
and press down around it to seal it
in. Cut out the pasta parcels with
a sharp knife and crimp the edges
with a fork to ensure that the filling
doesnt ooze out during cooking.
Put a large saucepan of salted
water over a high heat and bring
to the boil. Drop in the ravioli and
cook for 5 minutes.
While the pasta is cooking,
make the watercress pesto.
Put the watercress, olive oil, pine
nuts, garlic and grated parmesan
cheese in a food processor and
blend for a couple of minutes.
Drain the ravioli thoroughly and
return it to the saucepan. Pour
the watercress pesto into the
pan and toss gently. Season with
pepper and serve.
FOOD & TRAVEL
119
RECIPES
The smoky flavours of the salmon,

the creaminess of the goats
cheese and the peppery pesto
make a delicious combination.
Using my delicious fresh dillisk
pasta to create the ravioli takes
this dish to the next level. You can
substitute the watercress with
flat-leaf parsley, if you prefer.
Fresh dillisk pasta

MAKES ABOUT 1KG
Ireland has an abundance of

fantastic seaweed and over the
past ten years it has started to
make its way back on to menus
across the country. Dillisk, also
known as dulce, is a red alga that
holds a subtle flavour of the sea
and marries well with fresh pasta.
500g durum pasta flour, plus
extra for dusting
4tbsp dried dillisk, finely
chopped
7 free-range eggs
semolina flour, for dusting
Place the flour, dillisk, a large pinch

of sea salt and the eggs in a food
processor and blend together until
a dough forms. Place the dough
on a floured board and knead until
smooth. Separate the dough into
6 balls, cover with a tea towel and
allow to rest in a cool place or in
the fridge for 30 minutes.
If you have a pasta machine,
set it up and push the dough
through the rollers 8 times. With
each pass through the rollers,
reduce the setting, until you reach
the final setting. Be careful that
the pasta does not break as you
should now have a long, thin
sheet. If you dont have a pasta
maker, roll the dough out very
thinly with a rolling pin. (This can
be hard as it breaks easily I
would highly recommend buying
a pasta machine as they are
inexpensive and so useful).
Dust the pasta sheet lightly with
durum pasta flour and hang over
a clean clothes horse or similar
for 10 minutes. Store in the fridge,
and eat within 2 days.
As well as being perfect for my
ravioli, this pasta can also be cut
into thin strips to create tagliatelle.
120
FOOD & TRAVEL
Gravlax with dill and

juniper berries
SERVES 4
2 x 450g centre-cut salmon

fillets, skin on
2tbsp finely chopped dill
For the cure

150g sea salt
150g caster sugar
2tsp juniper berries
2tbsp cracked white
peppercorns
For the dressing

4tbsp lemon juice
1tsp Dijon mustard
First, make the cure. Using a

pestle and mortar (or a food
processor), grind all the cure
ingredients together.
Lay the salmon fillets side by
side, skin-side down, on a sheet
of cling film. Sprinkle a layer of dill
over each fillet, then add a thick
layer of the cure, pressing it into
the flesh very well. Use the cling
film to help you turn one fillet on
top of the other, then wrap the
cling film tightly around them.
Place on a plate and refrigerate
for 48 hours. Make the dressing
by whisking all the ingredients
together in a small bowl.
When you are ready to serve,
unwrap the cured salmon from
the cling film. Carefully remove the
skin, then slice the gravlax very
thinly. Transfer to a large serving
platter, drizzle with the dressing
and serve immediately.
Slow-roasted lamb
shanks with creamy
ginger potatoes
SERVES 4
2tbsp olive oil

1 onion, finely chopped
2 medium-sized sweet potatoes,
peeled and diced
1tsp ground cinnamon
1tsp chilli flakes
2tsp ground ginger
2 garlic cloves, crushed
4 medium-sized lamb shanks
2tbsp clear honey
3tbsp Marsala wine
For the potatoes

500g floury potatoes, such as
Maris Piper, washed
70ml milk
30g butter
2tsp freshly grated root ginger

Gas 2. Heat the oil in a casserole
over a medium heat. Stir in the
onion, sweet potatoes, cinnamon,
chilli flakes, ground ginger
and garlic, cover and simmer
for 5 minutes. Remove from the
casserole and set aside.
Add the lamb shanks to the
casserole and brown them all
over. Season with salt and pepper.

Return the onion, sweet potatoes
and spices to the casserole, along
with 500ml cold water, the honey
and the Marsala. Stir, cover and
bring to the boil.
Transfer the casserole to the
oven and cook for 2 hours. While
the lamb is cooking, prepare the
potatoes. Place the potatoes,
whole and unpeeled, in a large
saucepan, with the largest
potatoes at the bottom, and fill
halfway with water. Cover and
place over a high heat. When
the water begins to boil, drain off
about half, leaving just enough for
the potatoes to steam.
When the potatoes are cooked
(30-40 minutes, depending on
their size), peel them (hold them
in a tea towel if they are too hot to
handle) and place in a warm bowl.
Put the milk, butter and fresh
root ginger in a saucepan over a
low heat. Stir to warm through the
milk and melt the butter.
Pour the warmed ginger milk
into the warm potatoes, season
with salt and pepper and mash
well. Spoon the creamy ginger
potatoes onto two warmed plates
and place the lamb shanks with
the sauce on top.
RECIPES
Free-range pork with

apple, cherry and sage
stuffing and apple crisps
SERVES 6
1.5 kg boneless loin of pork
For the stuffing

200g cooking apples, diced
60 dried cherries, roughly
chopped
1 red onion, finely diced
4 sage leaves, finely chopped,
plus extra leaves to garnish
40g panko breadcrumbs
50g butter, melted
For the apple crisps

2 cooking apples
50g ground cinnamon
For the apple jus

1kg cooking apples, peeled,
cored and roughly chopped
2tbsp caster sugar
50g butter

Gas 9. Weigh the pork and make
a note of its weight.
Make the stuffing. In a bowl,
combine the apples, cherries, red
onion, sage, breadcrumbs and
melted butter. Season and mix well.
Butterfly the pork loin by making
a slit down its length, cutting just
deep enough so that the loin
opens out to lie flat like a book.
Spoon the stuffing mixture onto
the meat and spread evenly. Close

up the loin and tie with string at
even intervals so it assumes its
original shape. Push any stuffing
back in that escapes from the ends.
Season the pork all over and
place in a roasting tray. Cook for
25 minutes, then reduce the heat
to 180C/350F/Gas 4 and cook
for 20 minutes per 450g.
To make the apple crisps, core
the apples and slice very thinly
through the middle of each one
(aim for slices that are 12mm
thick). Dust with the cinnamon and
lay flat on a baking sheet lined
with baking parchment.
Cook in a preheated oven
at 180C/350F/Gas 4 for 45
minutes1 hour (if you are cooking
the pork at the same time, add the
apple slices to the oven when you
reduce the temperature). Turn the
slices halfway through and remove
any that have browned too much.
Continue cooking until the
apples have dried out and are
light golden. For the apple jus, put
the apples, sugar and butter in a
saucepan. Cover and cook gently,
stirring every so often, for 1520
minutes, until the apples start to
disintegrate. Once the pork is
cooked, stir 100ml of the cooking
juices into the apples.
To serve, slice the pork and
place on warmed plates. Scatter
apple crisps over and drizzle with
hot apple jus. Garnish with sage.
Apple and lavender

topless tart
SERVES 6
For the pastry

320g plain white flour
1tsp caster sugar
1tsp sea salt
230g unsalted butter, chilled
and cut into cubes
100ml iced water
For the topping

200g granulated sugar
2tsp dried lavender flowers
8 medium-sized eating apples
juice of 1 lemon
50g unsalted butter
whipped cream, to serve
To make the pastry, place the

flour, sugar and salt in a food
processor and whiz for a few
seconds to combine. Add the
chilled butter and whiz until the
mixture resembles breadcrumbs
this should take about 10
seconds. With the food processor
still running, add the iced water
in a slow, steady stream, through
the feed tube, until the dough just
holds together.
Turn the dough out onto a work
surface. Divide in two and place
each half on a sheet of cling film,
then cover with another sheet of
cling film. Roll out into two discs.
Wrap in cling film and refrigerate
for at least 1 hour before using.
Preheat the oven to

200C/400F/gas mark 6. Mix the
sugar with the lavender flowers to
infuse, and set aside.
Peel, halve and core the
apples. Keep one of the apple
halves as it is, and halve all the
others again, to give quarters.
Place all the apples in a bowl and
squeeze over the lemon juice.
Toss gently.
Place a 20cm heavy-based
ovenproof frying pan over a high
heat and add the lavender-infused
sugar, along with 50ml water.
Bring to the boil, then reduce the
heat to medium and cook until
the sugar mixture thickens.
Remove from the heat and stir in
the butter until melted.
Place the apple half in the
centre of the frying pan, cutside up, and arrange the apple
quarters around it, also cut-side
up. Place the pan back over a
medium heat for about 5 minutes.
Remove the pastry from the
fridge and roll it out to a circle a
little larger than the circumference
of your frying pan. Place the
pastry over the apples and syrup
and tuck in the edges. Pop the
tart in the oven for 3035 minutes.
Remove from the oven and
allow to cool for 5 minutes, then
place a plate, slightly larger than
the pan, on top. Invert the tart
onto the plate. Serve warm with
softly whipped cream.
FOOD & TRAVEL
121
RECIPES
Salads of substance
pages 58-63
Scallop and green papaya

salad with lemongrass
dressing
SERVES 4
Parma ham, pear and stem

ginger salad
1 green papaya, peeled, halved

and seeded
10cm piece cucumber
1 red chilli, seeded and finely
chopped
12 shelled prepared scallops
olive oil, for brushing
handful coriander leaves
SERVES 4
8 slices Parma ham

2 balls stem ginger, diced, plus
1tbsp syrup from the jar
125g mixed baby leaf herb salad
50g pea shoots
2 pears, halved, cored and cut
into long wedges
For the lemongrass dressing
Salted caramel whiskey

bread and butter pudding
with raisins
SERVES 6
100g raisins
120ml Irish whiskey
5 large eggs
480ml double cream
tsp ground cinnamon
tsp ground nutmeg
1tsp vanilla extract
89 slices firm white bread,
crusts left on
400g unsalted butter, at room
temperature, plus extra for
greasing
For the salted caramel

whiskey sauce
110g unsalted butter, cubed
1dsp sea salt
600ml double cream
In a medium mixing bowl,

combine the raisins and whiskey,
and leave to soak for 1 hour. In
a large bowl, whisk together the
eggs, cream, sugar, cinnamon,
nutmeg and vanilla to make a
122
FOOD & TRAVEL
custard. Spread one side of each

slice of bread with butter. Cut the
slices in half and arrange in the
base of the prepared baking dish,
overlapping the slices. Drain the
raisins, reserving the whiskey for
the sauce, and sprinkle them
over the bread slices. Pour the
custard over the bread and let it
soak for 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to
200C/400F/Gas 6. Butter a
22cm square baking dish.
Place the baking dish in a large
baking tin. Add enough hot water
to the tin to come halfway up the
sides. Bake for 50 minutes-1 hour,
or until the pudding is set and the
top is golden. Remove the baking
dish from the water bath and leave
to cool slightly on a wire rack.
To make the salted caramel
whiskey sauce, melt the butter in
a small saucepan over a medium
heat. Whisk in the sugar, salt,
cream and whiskey from soaking
the raisins. Reduce the heat to
low and simmer for 10 minutes,
or until the sauce thickens. Serve
the pudding warm with the salted
caramel whiskey sauce spooned
over the top.
freshly squeezed juice of

2 limes
1tbsp light brown soft sugar
1tbsp Thai fish sauce
2tsp finely chopped peeled
fresh root ginger
2 lemongrass stalks, outer
leaves discarded and finely
chopped
2 kaffir lime leaves, finely sliced
Shred the papaya using a

mandolin or use a knife to cut
it into long, thin strips. Slice the
cucumber into ribbons using
a mandolin or vegetable peeler,
discarding the column of seeds
in the centre. Put the papaya,
cucumber and chilli in a bowl.
Mix together all the ingredients
for the dressing until the sugar
dissolves, then pour it over the
salad, toss until combined and
leave for 15 minutes to allow the
flavours to develop. Divide the
salad among serving plates.
Brush the scallops with a little oil
and season. Heat a ridged griddle
pan over a high heat, then quickly
griddle the scallops for 1 minute
on each side until just cooked.
Arrange the scallops on top of the
salad and garnish with coriander.
For the dressing

4tbsp extra virgin olive oil,
preferably a fruity-flavoured one
2tbsp freshly squeezed
lemon juice
Place the slices of Parma ham

in a dry, non-stick frying pan and
cook over a medium heat for
34 minutes, turning once, until
just crisp. Remove from the pan,
drain on kitchen paper and, while
still warm, lightly brush the top of
each slice while still warm with
the ginger syrup. Meanwhile, mix
together all the ingredients for
the dressing and season with salt
and pepper.
Put the salad leaves and pea
shoots on a serving plate and top
with the pears and stem ginger.
Spoon as much of the dressing
over as needed, then toss gently
until lightly coated. Arrange the
slices of Parma ham on top and
serve immediately.
RECIPES
Fattoush with spiced

almonds
Honey-roasted carrots and

seeds with citrus cream
Ossau Iraty, asparagus

and crouton salad
SERVES 4
SERVES 4
SERVES 4
1tbsp smoked hot paprika

60g blanched almonds
2 small Little Gem lettuce,
leaves separated
250g vine-ripened mixed cherry
tomatoes, halved
1 small Lebanese cucumber,
quartered lengthways and cut
into bite-sized chunks
1 large romano or red
pepper, seeded and cut into
bite-sized chunks
8 radishes, sliced into rounds
5tbsp mint leaves
5tbsp parsley leaves
tsp cumin seeds, toasted
600g baby carrots, scrubbed

and trimmed
3tbsp extra virgin olive oil, plus
extra for drizzling
2tbsp balsamic vinegar
1tsp cumin seeds
2tsp clear honey
400g canned chickpeas, drained
and rinsed
2 large handfuls rocket leaves
1 red chilli, seeded and
thinly sliced
2 handfuls basil leaves
4tbsp mixed sunflower and
pumpkin seeds, toasted
4 thick slices country-style

bread, roughly torn into
croutons
3tbsp olive oil
400g asparagus, ends trimmed
150g mixed baby salad leaves
4 raw Chioggia beetroot, cut
into paper-thin slices
100g Ossau Iraty cheese, sliced
into thin shavings
For the citrus cream

For the orange and pistachio
dressing
3tbsp pistachio oil
finely grated zest and juice of
1 small orange
1tsp coriander seeds, toasted
and ground

Gas 4. Mix together the paprika
and 1tbsp of the olive oil from the
dressing, season and add the
almonds. Turn to coat the almonds
in the paprika oil and shake
onto a baking sheet. Spread the
nuts evenly and roast for 1520
minutes, turning once, until they
start to turn golden. Leave to cool.
Meanwhile, make the orange
and pistachio dressing. Put all the
ingredients in a small jar, season,
and shake until combined.
Arrange the Little Gem lettuce
leaves on a large serving platter
and top with the tomatoes,
cucumber, red pepper, radishes,
mint and parsley. Spoon the
dressing over the salad, then toss
it gently until combined. Sprinkle
with the toasted cumin seeds and
the almonds before serving.
100ml crme frache

finely grated zest of orange
3tbsp freshly squeezed
orange juice

Gas 6. Put the carrots in a large
roasting tin and drizzle over
enough oil to coat. Season, then
toss them with your hands. Roast
the carrots for 15 minutes, then
stir in the balsamic vinegar and
sprinkle the cumin seeds over.
Return the carrots to the oven for
another 15 minutes or until tender
and starting to turn golden.
Meanwhile, for the citrus cream
mix together the crme frache,
orange zest and half the orange
juice in a bowl.
Transfer the carrots to a bowl.
Stir the honey and remaining
orange juice into the juices in the
roasting pan until combined and
then pour over the carrots. Add
the chickpeas, rocket and chilli
and toss until mixed together.
Divide among serving plates and
scatter with the basil leaves and
toasted seeds. Top each serving
with a spoonful of citrus cream.
For the dressing

small lemon
small orange
1tsp Dijon mustard
1 garlic clove, peeled and
halved

Gas 6. While the oven is heating,
put all the ingredients for the
dressing in a small jar, season and
shake until combined. Set aside.
Put the croutons in a small
food bag and add 2tbsp olive oil.
Shake the bag until the croutons
are coated in the oil. Spread the
croutons out evenly on a large
baking tray and toast them in the
preheated oven for 15 minutes,
turning once, until they are
golden and crisp.
Brush the remaining oil over
the asparagus and season with
salt and pepper. Arrange the
asparagus on a separate baking
tray and roast, turning once, for
10 minutes until tender and just
starting to colour.
Meanwhile, arrange the leaves
on a large serving platter. Top
with the beetroot and asparagus.
Spoon enough of the dressing
over to coat and toss gently until
combined. Sprinkle the Ossau
Iraty and croutons over to serve.
Kamut with
chermoula dressing
SERVES 4
400g vine-ripened cherry

tomatoes
150g kamut
200g spring greens or kale,
tough outer leaves and stems
discarded, leaves finely
shredded
2 large handfuls of coriander
leaves, chopped
For the chermoula dressing

1 small preserved lemon and
2tbsp juice from the jar
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1tsp each ground cumin, ground
ginger and ground coriander
tsp dried chilli flakes

Gas 6. Toss the tomatoes in the oil
and spread out in a large roasting
pan. Roast for 15-20 minutes, until
starting to collapse.
Meanwhile, put the kamut in a
pan and cover with plenty of water.
Bring to the boil, then turn the heat
down, part-cover and simmer for
10-12 minutes, until tender. Drain
and transfer to a serving bowl with
the spring greens and coriander.
For the dressing, scoop out
and discard the flesh from the
preserved lemon. Finely chop the
skin and combine it with the rest of
the ingredients in a bowl, adding
salt and black pepper to taste.
Spoon half of the dressing
over the salad and toss to
combine. Pile the tomatoes on
top, then spoon over the rest of
the dressing and serve.
FOOD & TRAVEL
123
AFTER HOURS
NobuMatsuhisa
124
Clockwise from top left:

seafood at Barrana; Nobu
Matsuhisa; Anraku-Ji temple
in Bessho Onsen, Japan;
Nobu anniversary bento box
Im proud to say that I brought Nobu style cooking

to the world. Its based on my upbringing in Japan, then Peru,
mixing the traditional flavours of both cuisines. When I opened
Nobu in Los Angeles in the Eighties, it really felt as if food was
changing. I still remember the first dish I cooked: steamed
mussels with South American salsa. No one had tried it before
but the locals and critics loved it. It gave me the confidence
to really start experimenting. I havent stopped since.
My favourite city in the world for food and travel
is Tokyo. Its the sheer scale of the place and the variety of
food on offer. Ive always said that I eat anything, or will at least
try it once. Tokyo is the one place that really tests me.
I admire the Greek style of cooking. They know that food
doesnt need to be messed with. If youve got the best fish
in the world, treat it simply. Pull it out of the water, put it on
the grill, add salt and lemon juice and youre done.
It inspired me to open my restaurant in Mykonos.
The team of chefs I have there complete the summer holiday
season, then all up sticks together and move to Matsuhisa,
the restaurant Ive just opened at Badrutts Palace Hotel in
St Moritz. It allows me to keep the same standards and gives
the chefs a great experience of seeing the world.
There are four key chefs I admire and speak to
regularly to discuss ideas: Daniel Boulud, Jos Andrs,
Jean-Georges Vongerichten and Thomas Keller. Im 66 now,
and everyone is younger than me, so they come to me for
advice. I want to keep pushing boundaries until the day I die.
For a relaxed dinner in London, I love going to The River
Caf, rivercafe.co.uk, and Barrafina, barrafina.co.uk. They both
do simple but ridiculously tasty food. My favourite place though,
has to be new sushi restaurant The Araki, the-araki.com, near
Savile Row. Its the first in the capital to do new-wave Tokyo
food. It has only nine seats and serves just one menu, but its
some of the very best sushi in the world. Chef Mitsuhiro Arakis
attention to detail is impeccable. He had three Michelin stars in
Tokyo and it wont be long before he gets them here too.
One ingredient I cant live without is soy sauce. Its key
in everything I cook and is in my own interpretation of ceviche.
I add it to tigers milk, though never use too much acid. Its
simply soy, fresh ginger, coriander, chilli, garlic and salt.
Aged tequila is my favourite drink. I much prefer it to
whisky; the flavours are so much more complex. But that could
just be because I was introduced to the really good stuff during
my time in South America. If I grew up in Scotland my taste
would probably be different.
Clockwise from above: River

Caf; tuna tataki at Badrutts
Palace; Mykonos; St Moritz
For more about Nobu, visit nobumatsuhisa.com. To book at his

new restaurant at Badrutts Palace, see badruttspalace.com
Photos by Mark OFlaherty; Anthony Rose; La Teuscher; Paul Winch-Furness/Henry Hargreaves
With an empire of 35 sites spanning the globe, Nobu-san is one of the most successful restaurateurs
in the business. He tells Mark Sansom where his food comes from and where he sees it going
Expert-led Cultural Tours in

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Kids
BEST UK
BEACHES
with gourmet pubs
COOKERY
COURSES
for junior sous
ANIMAL
MAGIC
RECIPES
for healthier
snacks
FAMILY FUN
Action-packed holidays
what will
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this
SUMMer?
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programmes and sports academies for them, with beautiful hotels offering
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ELBA
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Welcome
Do you remember the excitement of the school summer
holidays? That Friday afternoon in July when you were
released with everything to look forward to. Dreams of
biking across fields, building sandcastles, crabbing and
racing outdoors on long balmy days. Here at Food and
Travel weve put together 39 pages of inspiration for a
summer that your family from toddlers to teenagers
wont forget. See page 16 for great pubs on beaches
around the UK that get a big thumbs up from little ones
and parents looking to refresh after a hard days toil on the
sand. Theres no better time for parents to get planning
holidays abroad too, since the Air Passenger Duty tax on
airfares has been dropped for the under 12s, making breaks
much more affordable, so check out our adventures that get
up close and personal with animals (page 28). Weve also
found destinations with activities for the whole family, from
tennis coaching and sailing, to swimming with pigs and
horse riding. Add to that bread baking, fruit picking and
recipes for making healthy sweets as well as a host of family
friendly places to stage a sleep-over. If you want us, we
will be sharing a sty with pigs in converted stables or
snoozing with dinosaurs in the Natural History Museum.
Editor Renate Ruge
Kids
June 2015
5 Young explorers
Bed down with dinos and

take a family cycling tour
9 Small bites
Laksa for little ones and

an easy way to five-a-day
10 Breader together
Introduce the clan to
making loaves at home
16 UKs best beaches
Hone your sandcastle

craft and follow it up with
a gourmet pub lunch
22 Family Values
Cover photo by Angela Dukes
Editor
Renate Ruge
Creative director
Angela Dukes
Deputy editor
Mark Sansom
Consultant editor
Ian Belcher
Editorial assistant
Blossom Green
Research assistant
Imogen Lepere
Sub-editors
James Williams, Jo Lamiri
Publisher
Gregor Rankin
Account director
Ross Lipsett
Account managers
Tim Broad, Tony Franks
Marketing executive
Tam Hashim
Subscriptions
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Switchboard
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Email
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Shared experiences to
grow as a group
28 Animal Magic
Make animals the focus

of your break this year
34 Places to stay
Hotels to keep everyone

happy, from Berkshire
to Barbados
36 Cookery schools
Give your junior sous the

start they crave with the
best UK courses for kids
JAMAICA
TURKS & CAICOS
LUXURY
CARIBBEAN
For the whole Family
BEACHES NEGRIL RESORT & SPA, JAMAICA
MORE QUALITY INCLUSIONS THAN

ANY OTHER RESORTS IN THE WORLD
Beaches Resorts is voted the worlds #1 all-inclusive family resorts because kids
can enjoy the freedom to have a holiday of their own, and parents have the luxury
to relax too! With a choice of three world-class resorts set on the Caribbeans
nest beaches in Jamaica and Turks & Caicos, youll be surrounded by ve-star
luxury with more quality inclusions than any resorts on earth. Little kids love
our supervised V.I.K. (Very Important Kids) Camps with the exclusive Caribbean
Adventure with Sesame Street . Teenagers go wild for our Xbox Play Lounge
and Scratch DJ Academy . Adults get a romantic break in the most luxurious
beachfront rooms, suites and villas. Add to that our scuba diving* programme.
Our adrenaline inducing waterparks, the islands biggest and best. Our Gourmet
Discovery Dining featuring up to 20 outstanding restaurants per resort and
endless premium drinks day and night throughout the resort. Yet while virtually
everything at Beaches Resorts is included and unlimited, its the precious moments
when the entire family comes together that will linger in your heart forever.
TO BOOK THE WORLDS LEADING ALL-INCLUSIVE

FAMILY RESORTS
Call 0800 597 0001
Visit beachesresorts.co.uk
See your local travel agent
*Free for certied divers. Costs for others
2014
World's Leading All

Inclusive Family
Resort Brand
17 Years Running
Travel news
PEDAL PROWESS
Take a sty-cation
Carmarthenshires Cwmcrwth Farm we cant

pronounce it either has garnered multiple
gongs for its family activities. Now its
offering your brood the chance to sleep in a
piggy ark. The farm has pimped one of these
classic shelters, so you can snuggle down in
sleeping bags and awake to a unique piggy
aroma and accompanying squeals. Even
better, twin your stay with a Junior Farmers
break, where children collect eggs and feed
lambs. You can also tackle a pork-curing day
just dont tell the little ones. Four-person
cottages from 300 for three nights (265
with a night in the piggy ark). Bacon-curing
courses 95pp. cwmcrwthfarmcottages.co.uk
The family that pedals together stays together, particularly if theyre

following slickly designed, super-safe cycling itineraries. The latest trips
from Cycling for Softies through the Mayenne area of northwest France
allow you to meander along flat, traffic-free riverside cycle paths, linking
family-friendly hotels with swimming pools and childrens menus. There
are cracking villages like Parn-sur-Roc, historic Mayenne and Chteau
Sainte-Suzanne, home to jousting tournaments. Five half-board nights,
touring bikes, luggage transfers and maps from 1,075pp (7-15 year-olds
775; 2-6 year-olds 125). cycling-for-softies.co.uk
Kids Travel news Kids Travel news Kids Travel news

Caribbeans got talent
Even usually lethargic teenagers may be enticed by an opportunity

to learn some dazzling circus skills on a family holiday even more
so when the new adventure takes place in a palm-fringed Caribbean
hotspot. Cirque de Soleil, pioneers of acrobatic spectaculars, have
teamed up with Club Med in the Dominican Republic, so their highly
trained staff can provide tuition in everything from the flying trapeze,
tightrope walking and aerial
silk skills to trampolining,
juggling, percussion and
mask-painting. If that
doesnt impress classmates
at the start of the new term,
nothing will. Seven days fullboard with circus activities,
flights and transfers, from
1,041pp, children 617,
under-6s free. clubmed.co.uk
A new kind of Duty Free
Hurrah! Foreign family holidays just got cheaper thanks to
the abolition of Air Passenger Duty (APD) for under-12s a reduction

airlines will honour even if you bought your tickets before May. Head
over to Europe and youll save about 26 for a family of four, but going
longer haul to the likes of the US means an extra 138 in your wallet. Itll
be better still next year when APD is also abolished for under-16s.
PRE-HISTORIC SLEEPOVER
With the fourth installment of the hit movie

Jurassic Park opening this month, the first for
14 years, its the perfect time for a dinosaur
sleepover at the Natural History Museum.
DinoSnore see what they did there? allows
kids, accompanied by an adult, to join a
torchlit trail in the dinosaur gallery, design
their own T-shirt and enjoy a live science
demonstration. At midnight everyone drifts
off beneath the slightly alarming gaze of
a huge diplodocus or life-size blue whale
model, and before morning opening, the
museum provides breakfast and a live animal
show sadly not with dinosaurs. 120 for one
child (7-11) and one adult, nhm.ac.uk
FOOD & TRAVEL
Truly exciting
Truly enanting
Efteling is a Dutch theme park, only

an hour's drive from Amsterdam,
offering unforgettable adventures for
the whole family. From a wonderful
fairytale forest and rides for the little
ones to thrilling rollercoasters for
the older dare devils, in addition to
the largest spectacular water show in
Europe and lots more.
Extend your Efteling experience by
staying overnight in our themed
Efteling hotel or in the holiday village
Bosrijk. Both within easy walking
distance of the park and both offering
early entry to the park for guests.
You can enjoy a wonderful stay
at the Efteling Hotel, including
admission to the Efteling Theme
Park, from just 260 (based on
a family of 4 sharing a room).
To nd out more visit:
efteling.co.uk
cruise news
Current of energy
NEW KIDS ON THE BLOCK
Everyones favourite brand of tessellating brick

has made an indelible mark on land and is now
conquering the seas. The first themed floating
playroom has been built aboard MSC Armonia,
acting as a spearhead for two further planned
launches in 2017. Part of improvements to the
cruise lines kids clubs, the rooms will feature play
pens with games and challenges, a LEGO play
wall, and design and construction competitions.
As well as getting to meet the brands mascot,
Sailor Walkabout, kids will receive a Junior LEGO
Master Builder certificate on disembarkation.
Just remember its not valid for any real-life
construction sites. msccruises.co.uk
Do your kids like to impress

their friends on holiday? Royal
Caribbeans latest launch, Anthem
of the Seas, offers serious bragging
rights with whats claimed to be
the largest sports and activity
complex afloat. SeaPlex has a
potpourri of energy-burning
activities from a bumper car arena
to roller-skating and circus school.
If theyre still not happy theres
the FlowRider surfing simulator,
iFly (a skydiving chamber rather
than an Apple kite), and 40-foot
climbing wall. From 1,299pp,
royalcaribbean.co.uk
Ship ahoy
Whats new in the world of cruising for junior explorers on the Seven Seas
Photo by Disney Cruise Line
Walk the plank

Your children wont just find their
sea legs aboard Norwegian Cruise
Lines latest vessel; theyll also
perfect their balance on whats
being promoted as the largest
rope course to sail the seas. One
of two record-breaking attractions
on the Norwegian Escape redhot competition between cruise
operators is spawning bigger
better ocean-going thrills it
includes two planks, five sky
rails and a zip track. The new
ship, launching this November
in Miami, also boasts the worlds
largest floating aqua park with
an aqua racer slide (youll be
terrified, the youngsters will love
it) and Teenage Mutant Ninja
Turtle miniature golf course
Food and Travels favourite
ever blend of sport and family
movies. Theres also Nickelodeon
entertainment including the chance
to eat breakfast with SpongeBob
SquarePants and a dedicated
under-twos nursery. ncl.co.uk
IT'S MICKEY, NOT FIEVEL
Most of us are well aware of the

perils of float and bloat cruise buffets,
but little ones need more guidance
when it comes to healthy eating.
Step forward Disney Cruise Line and
its new Mickey Check (a slow day
in the ideas department, perhaps).
Created by leading childrens experts,
it lets parents identify healthy eating
options aboard Disneys four ships
with individual dishes rated for
calories, saturated fat, sodium and
sugar content. To get the full seal of
approval the nutritional equivalent of
a Mickey Mouse Club Badge a meal
must have three different food groups
and limited sugar. Chocolate peanut
butter fudge sundaes need not apply.
disneycruise.disney.go.com
FOOD & TRAVEL
1.1 BILLION
1.4 MILLION
people dont have access to safe water
children die each year because of unsafe water
JUST 1, 1 OR $2
can deliver safe water to a child for nearly 10 years
THEY COUNT ON YOU

supported by
Please make a donation at www.justgiving.com/fandtfriendsofjad

For more information about Just a Drop please visit www.justadrop.org
food news
NO-FUSS EATING
OUT OF THIS WORLD
Rocket and alien shapes

make Astro Bites a fun snack.
High in fibre and with 40
per cent less sugar than the
average childrens biscuit,
the oats also help keep kids
fuller for longer. Berry Blast
fruit pieces add extra flavour
and some extra playground
credibility (1.59 for 5 bags).
nairns-oatcakes.com
Introducing kids to
grown-up dishes is
a great way to avoid
fussy eating. A good
choice for three- to
six year-olds, Little
Dishs nutritionally
balanced Bigger
Kids meals have
chunky textures and
count as one of their
five a day. Choose
from Mild Beef Chilli
and Rice, Seven Veg
Lasagne, Chunky
Chicken Pot Roast
and new Fishermans
Pie with Salmon and
Pollock (all 3.25/
300g). littledish.co.uk
EXPLORING THE EXOTIC
Mini globe-trotters will love Mini Nom Noms

tasty new dishes. Creators Lisa and Imrat
Sohanpal have created exotic Tiny Thali, Tiffin,
Tagine and Little Laksa meals to inspire young
palates (3.75/250g). mininomnoms.com
small bites small bites small bites small bites

WIBBLE, WOBBLE
Wrapped in a
spill-free pouch to
prevent messy leaks,
Cheshire-based
Naturellys Jelly Juice
is made from fruit juice
and gelatine-free jelly.
A good option for
day trips and school
lunchboxes, they
give kids the choice
of vitamin C-packed
Summer Fruits, Apple
and Totally Tropical
flavours (1.39/180ml).
naturelly.co.uk
ANIMAL SPOTTING
Pasta salad, sandwiches or a snack of grapes these cute,

stackable Scruff character Tum Tum Nesting Snackpots (9
for four pots) will keep them all safe till lunch. Prefer cats?
Look out for Bluebell. The range includes cutlery, cups and
placemats. tumtumtots.com
HIGH-FIVE A DAY
Sweetened naturally with grape juice,
Little Yeos Fromage Frais (1.79 for
six pots) contain organic milk and fruit
pure with tasty strawberry, peach, pear,
apple, mango and vanilla. Alternatively,
pack a Yeo Tube. yeovalley.co.uk
ICE, ICE BABY

Struggling to find healthy treats, two
London mums have created delicious
strawberry and mango Greek-style
yoghurt lollies. Named after their
children, Claudia and Fin, the ices are
full of fruit and enriched with vitamin
D (2.50 for 4). claudiandfin.co.uk
FOOD & TRAVEL
RISE
TO THE CHALLENGE
Ciabatta family
This recipe does take a little
time but will be really worth it
when you see your finished
ciabatta people. Alternatively,
you could make a whole loaf.
Ciabatta is Italian for slipper.
If you make the classic version,
youll soon see why.
200g strong white flour or
00, plus extra for dusting
4g salt
2g fresh yeast or 1g
dried yeast
160ml warm water
15ml olive oil, plus extra
small mixing bowl
2 large mixing bowls
10
FOOD & TRAVEL
shower cap (optional)

stainless-steel gingerbread
family cookie cutters
parchment-lined baking tray
small oven peel (optional)
baking stone (optional)
In the small mixing bowl, mix the
flour and salt together and set
aside. This is your dry mixture.
In one of the large mixing bowls,
dissolve the yeast in the warm
water (unless youre using instant
or fast-acting yeast, in which case
you can just add the yeast directly
to the flour). This is the wet mixture.
Add the dry mixture to the wet
and mix together into a sticky
dough, making sure all
baking
Baking bread doesnt have to be
about standard loaves give these family
recipes a try and let the fun begin
FOOD & TRAVEL
11
the flour is mixed into the

liquid. Grease the other large
mixing bowl with the oil.
Place the sticky dough in
the bowl and allow it to rest
for 1 hour, covered with an
upturned small bowl (the bowl
that contained the dry mixture)
or a shower cap.
After 1 hour, it will have
increased in volume. Lightly
fold the dough twice. Do this
by taking the top part of the
dough and pulling it to the
middle, then take the left-hand
side of the dough and pull it
to the middle.
Rotate the bowl 180, then
take the top part of the dough
and pull it to the middle again.
Rotate the bowl 90
clockwise, take the top part of
the dough and pull it to the
middle again.
Rotate the bowl 180, take
the top part of the dough and
pull it to the middle again.
Now turn the dough over.
Repeat all the folding steps
another 3 times, but allow
the dough to rest for 1 hour
after each time, covered with
the small mixing bowl or a
shower cap. If the dough is not
covered a skin will form and
this will affect the end result. If
the dough sticks to the bowl,
add a little olive oil.
To make the ciabatta people,
generously flour a work surface

and place the ball of dough on
it. Add flour to the surface of
the dough.
Place the four gingerbread
cutters in a line above the
dough, so you know how wide
the dough needs to be. Now,
flatten the dough with your
hands and gently press it with
your fingers to elongate it.
Once its wide and long
enough, use the four cookie
cutters to cut out the different
shapes, making sure that there
is a space between each one.
Adults may need to help with
this as you will need to press
firmly and move the cutters
from side to side to make
sure they have cut all the
way through.
Roll the figures and the
remaining dough in flour. Place
the figures and the rest of the
dough onto the prepared
baking tray or baking stone
if using. Preheat the oven to
0C80FGas 9. Bake in
the preheated oven for about
15 minutes until theyve turned
golden brown.
Use oven mitts or the oven
peel to remove the baking tray,
and transfer the shapes and
the rest of the loaf to a wire
rack on the work surface.
Allow to cool sufficiently
before enjoying them.
Crunchy breadsticks
MAKES ABOUT 16
These crunchy, moreish snacks

are great both on their own or
dunked into dips. They make
a good starter, too, particularly
while waiting for a pizza to
finish cooking. It will be good
practice seeing how steady
you can keep your hand while
piping the mixture into sticks.
25ml olive oil
40g white bread flour
4g salt
25g sesame seeds
1 egg
measuring jug
small mixing bowl
saucepan
wooden spoon
piping bag
baking sheet, lined with
parchment paper
Add 50ml water and the olive
oil to the measuring jug. Place
the flour and salt in the small
mixing bowl and set aside.
Heat up a saucepan over a
medium heat (adults should
supervise here) and add the
sesame seeds, stirring them
with a wooden spoon to stop
them from burning. Cook them
until they turn golden.
Add the olive oil mixture
and the flour mixture to the
saucepan and cook until it all

comes together into a ball. Be
careful that it doesnt burn.
Take the saucepan off the
heat and transfer the cooked
mixture into the bowl that
contained the flour. Leave the
mixture to cool slightly.
While it cools, break the
egg into the jug and beat it
lightly with a fork.
Once the mixture is
warm, add the lightly beaten
egg little by little until it is
completely incorporated and
the mixture is nice and smooth.
Fill a piping bag with the
mixture, cut a 5mm tip at
the end (adults should help
with this too) and pipe the
mixture into long sticks on the
prepared baking tray.
Preheat your oven to
50C80FGas 9 and place
a deep roasting tray in the
base of the oven.
Place the tray with the
sesame sticks in the preheated
oven and pour a cup of water
into the hot tray to allow steam
to form (adults, your help is
required again), then lower
the ovens temperature to
00C00FGas 6.
Bake for 10-15 minutes
until golden brown. Allow the
breadsticks to cool on a wire
rack before dunking into dips
and munching.
RECIPES AND PHOTOGRAPHS TAKEN FROM MAKING BREAD TOGETHER BY EMMANUEL HADJIANDREOU, PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEVE PAINTER (RYLAND PETERS & SMALL, 16.99).
12
FOOD & TRAVEL
baking
Sculpting, cutting
and getting your
hands dirty are
all part of the fun
when it comes
to making these
recipes. With its
simple ingredients,
bread is one of the
easiest and most
affordable foods
to make great for
any aspiring cooks
FOOD & TRAVEL
13
cooking
Strawberry
Summer fruits are
ripe for the picking.
Turn them into
snacks that are
healthy, seasonal
and as naturally
sweet as can be
5b
ollable, windable and

whipable much like the
shop-bought versions
these strawberry leather strips
are colourful and fun. You
can use any seasonal soft fruit
(strawberries, apricots, plums,
blueberries, raspberries) and
add cooking apples to the
mix to help with the set and to
reduce the cost.
The preparation is simple,
and although the cooking
itself can take 12 hours in a
low oven, cook it overnight
and you wont notice the wait.
Alternatively, you can use a
dehydrator, which will cut the
cooking time considerably.
Once ready, you can save
the strips to roll up and wrap
in squares of greaseproof for
lunchboxes or picnic snacks.
14
FOOD & TRAVEL
FIELDS
RECIPES AND
PHOTOGRAPHS
TAKEN FROM
THE FIVE OCLOCK
APRON BY
CLAIRE THOMSON,
PHOTOGRAPHY
BY MIKE LUSMORE
(EBURY PRESS, 20).
Strawberry leather
MAKES ABOUT 18 STRIPS,
FINGER WIDTH
300g Bramley apples (roughly

2 fist-sized apples), peeled,
cored and cut
into small chunks
500g strawberries, hulled
(or other seasonal soft fruit)
tiny trickle of cooking oil for
the greaseproof paper
Preheat the oven to 50C/
120F/lowest gas setting. Line a
large baking sheet with lightly
oiled greaseproof paper. Put the
apples into a pan with a lid and
cook, covered, over a medium
heat for about 5 minutes then
add the strawberries and cook
until completely soft about
another 5 minutes.
Push the pulp through a sieve
into a bowl. Pour onto the baking
sheet (the pure should be
about 5mm thick).
Put into the oven for about 12
hours or overnight. When done,
the mixture should feel leathery
and dry to the touch. Peel off
the paper and cut into whatever
shapes you like (long strips are
good for rolling up). Stored in an
airtight container they will keep
for at least a few weeks.
Kids cooking
FOOD & TRAVEL
15
SHORE
THING
16
FOOD & TRAVEL
Left to right:
fun in the
[]V#QUXW[QVO
headland of
Chesil Beach in
Dorset; snaking
XI\P[IJW^M
Seatown Beach
Lets face it, beach time with the family is hungry work. Imogen Lepere uncovers
the best pubs in the UK to relax and refuel in after a hard days sandcastle craft
Prices are for three courses, excluding drinks, for two
adults and two children, unless otherwise stated
THE FERRYBOAT INN CORNWALL
The North Helford passage near Falmouth is one of the most

unspoilt estuaries in Cornwall, so hail the water taxi from Helford
village and spend the day on The Ferryboat Inns private beach.
At low tide you can follow the tracks of herons and egrets in
the riverbed, or take a shing line and while away an afternoon
tempting brown crabs out of the seaweed. The 300-year-old
pub was the :right brothers rst restaurant and is Must a short
boat ride from their oyster farm on the Duchy of Cornwall estate:
enMoy their plump oysters with nothing more than a sTuee]e
of lemon, malted bread and salty Cornish butter, or tuck into a
prawn sandwich while dangling your feet in the river. There are
shoalfuls of sh dishes on offer, but fussy children may prefer the
non-sh options of treacle-gla]ed ham, fried eggs and chips,
cheesburgers or posh bangers and mash. If youve got room,
nish with Treleavens hand-churned ice cream, made from rich
Cornish milk. 110. 01326 250625, thewrightbrothers.co.uk
HIVE BEACH CAFE DORSET
Enclosed by a craggy shoreline thats more like the land of

Mordor from The Lord of the Rings than Dorset, Hive Beach is
part of the iconic Jurassic Coast World Heritage Site. Its gentle
shingle gives way to sand at low tide, perfect for Tuiet paddling,
while volleyball nets are provided free of charge for older ones
who may want to test their skills. Bring your shing lines because
the water near the car park is ideal for a rst angling trip. Easygoing Hive Beach Caf is unfa]ed by the sight of sandy feet and
damp swimming costumes in fact, as you kick back and relax on
the terrace youll barely notice youve left the beach. Call ahead
if you want to bag a seafood platter with its crevettes, spider
crabs and Portland oysters, youll be glad you did. Fussy kids may
prefer grilled or battered sh, and the lunch menu includes easy
eats like a ham sandwich with chips while the notorious midafternoon sugar slump is remedied with home-made cakes and
sundaes. 140. 01308 897070, hivebeachcafe.co.uk
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FOOD & TRAVEL
41
Main photograph: car-free Tresco has old-world charm. Above, from left: New Inn mussels; shrimping; scallops served in the shell
&DUIUHH 7UHVR KDV EHHQ RZQHG E\ WKH VDPH IDPLO\ IRU YH
generations and conjures up images of The Famous Five with
its smuggOers caYe rocN pooOs and pufns whiOe owerOOed
meadows ow down to 1ew *rimsE\ Eeach a haOf moon of sand
with a eet of shing Eoats moored in the Ea\ :armed E\ the *uOf
6tream 7rescos cOimate is far miOder than the %ritish mainOand
maNing it ideaO for Eoating EuiOding sandcastOes and sunEathing
7he 1ew ,nn is renowned for its hospitaOit\ eYer\one is weOcome
incOuding 7imm\ the dog 7resco Eeef is rightO\ maNing a name for
itseOf the puEs own grassfed herd maNes e[ceptionaOO\ tender
steaNs whiOe &ornish porN and 7resco partridge sausage roOOs
are a sophisticated taNe on the Nids cOassic 7he monNsh and
macNereO are caught daiO\ persuade \our Nids to tr\ the potted
shrimps and sh stew whiOe their more conserYatiYe counterparts
ma\ go for sausages and mash sh and chips and Eurgers from
7he 1ew ,nns own herd e 01720 423006, tresco.co.uk
THE THREE CHIMNEYS SKYE
7idaO /och 'unYegan is sure to stimuOate the imagination with

its peat\ Eogs +ighOand cattOe castOe and nearE\ coraO Eeach at
&Oaigan 7he sand is actuaOO\ desiccated aOgae EOeached E\ the
sun and you can while away hours collecting fossils under the
Yast +eEridean sNy /ooN out for sea eagles and otters hunting
urchins along the shore or catch a Eoat from the castle jetty and
Yisit the lochs seal colony with guaranteed seal sightings or
your money EacN honestly ,t may seem incongruous to nd one
of the 8.s most reYered destination restaurants in such a remote
place Eut the hamlet of &olEost is home to 7he 7hree &himmeys
awarded its rst 0ichelin star this year 0ost of the ingredients on
its sophisticated menu are shed farmed or diYed in 6Nye looN
out for creelcaught langoustine renowned for its superior te[ture
and sorbet made from freshly foraged blaeberries; children may
enjoy the sh soup or lamb shoulder with pastilla and couscous
e lunch for four 01470 511258, threechimneys.co.uk
Warmed by the Gulf Stream, Trescos climate is far milder than the British
mainland, making it ideal for boating, building sandcastles and sunbathing
Left to right:
The New Inn;
Tresco; messing
about in boats
24
18
FOOD & TRAVEL
Photos by James Darling
THE NEW INN SCILLY ISLES
THE CARY ARMS DEVON
The English Riviera is 22 miles of glorious Devon coastline,

all thatched cottages, dramatic red cliffs and a neverending supply of sandy coves ripe for young explorers.
One of the most loved is sheltered Babbacombe Bay,
which Queen Victoria described as having such rocks
and grottoes she expected nymphs to appear. The
placid water is ideal for learning to scuba dive: look out
for dogsh and the occasional octopus in the shallows,
while more experienced divers can explore the wreck
of The Bretagne. The Cary Arms is a friendly gastro pub
with sprawling terraces just the place to nibble clotted
cream fudge while looking for dolphins in the bay. All
seafood is local (try the Brixham crab),
but there are plenty of standard options
with kid appeal too: pasta with tomato
sauce and mozzarella, chicken goujons and, at lunchtime,
steak sandwiches. If loading the car with salty wetsuits
doesnt appeal, spend the night in one of the adjoining
shermans cottages. Ask at reception for the babysitting
service and enjoy a late-night stroll along the shore. 112.
01803 327110, caryarms.co.uk
best beach pubs

Main photograph:
The Cary Arms
is a vantage point
for dolphin spotting. Below, from
left: children love to
beach comb; lobster
for The Cary Arms
kitchen; bay watch
from the terrace;
shades of pink
THE SPORTSMAN KENT

The Domesday Book valued the borough of Seasalter at 100
shillings with its church, eight sheries and wood for the
pannage of ten hogs. Nowadays, no description would be
complete without a mention of its shingle beach, or destination
restaurant The Sportsman, overlooking the :hitstable oyster ats.
The calm waters of the bay are ideal for skimming stones, boogieboarding and water-skiing, a great way to work up an appetite for
some Michelin-starred dishes. Pocketed snugly between fertile
marshland and the Thames estuary, the pub is renowned for

serving the best of land and sea, from marsh-fed lamb to sole with
seaweed butter and Whitstable oysters. Theres also a nine-course
tasting menu, a great way to introduce children to new avours
as well as more familiar roast lamb or chicken, while the recently
installed polytunnel means that the fruit and veg theyre eating was
likely to have been sourced within walking distance. 150; tasting
menu 260 for four. 01227 273370, thesportsmanseasalter.co.uk
Below, from left: beach huts, marshland and big skies on the Kent coast; famous Whitstable oysters; the Michelin-starred Sportsman
CARROT, FENNEL, GOATS CURD AND ORANGE SALAD

F&T WINE MATCH Honeysuckle and citrus avoured, bright,
nutty Australian sparkling (eg Jansz Premium Cuve NV)
best
FOODbeach
FOCUS pubs
THE WHITE HORSE NORFOLK
Legend has it that Horatio Nelson learnt to sail along the marshy
Foastline oI %ranFaster 6taithe one oI the last ZorNing shing
villages in Norfolk. Buy a Cromer crab sandwich from a stall in the
harbour, rent one of the sailing clubs dinghies and follow in his
footsteps to uninhabited Scolt Head island: the empty sand dunes
are perfect for hunting for lavender-coloured Stiffkey cockle shells,
or watching acrobatic Arctic terns. Returning to the mainland, The
White Horse is ideal for an early supper. Its restaurant and terrace
overlook the marshes, where you may spot shermen bringing
home their catch. Look out for sea trout with samphire (known
in Norfolk as sea asparagus); infants can try baby bowl of the
day, a pure of locally grown vegetables, while older children
will appreciate sausages and mash, macaroni cheese and grilled
chicken. 128. 01485 210262, whitehorsebrancaster.co.uk
Main photo:
sweeping sands
and big skies.
Left: The White
Horse Inn.
Below, from
left: Norfolks
beaches are safe
for kids; local
catch; sign with
a touch of wit;
W_MZ[QV\PM
sand; mussels at
The White Horse
WESTBEACH DORSET
The Great British resort has a special place in our hearts and with
seven miles of sandy beaches, Bournemouth is one of the best.
Chance your luck on a one-armed bandit at the pier, then buy a
stick of rock and mosey along the beach; it is liberally scattered
with donkey rides, candy oss and brightly painted beach
huts, available to rent. The terrace at informal WestBeach
restaurant is a comparative haven of calm. At lunchtime, sh
At WestBeach, the
informal vibe belies
the restaurants
award-winning food
20
FOOD & TRAVEL
cakes, CaMun chicken burgers and sh pie reign supreme; dinner

includes Thai-style mussels, citrus-cured sea bass tartare or fruits
de mer (including Poole Bay crab, razor clams and lobster).
More adventurous nippers will feel grown up eating mini prawn
cocktail and kid-sized portions of mussels; those who prefer the
more mundane can order pasta or chargrilled chicken. 120.
01202 587785, west-beach.co.uk
Photos by Angela Dukes; Mark Parren Taylor
The empty sand dunes at uninhabited Scolt Head island are perfect for hunting
for lavender-coloured Stiffkey cockle shells or watching acrobatic Arctic terns
There are family holidays...
...and there are

amazing family
holidays in Thailand
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Photograph by Thailand Through The Lens competition winner Ken Lindsay
Left to right:
Niyama's
innity pool and
RECIPES
wooden decking
complement the
tropical scene
Family
V A L U E S
Shared family experiences stay with kids forever. Heres our pick of the global bunch
to help you grow as a group having a blast as you do it
22
NIYAMA
DHAALU ATOLL, MALDIVES
ANDRIAKE BEACHCLUB
DEMRE, TURKEY
Introduce the family to the world of coastal sea life with a

snorkeling tour guided by a marine biologist. Start by paddling out
to some of the worlds most stunning coral reefs in a family canoe,
before diving in and learning how the underwater ecosystem
flourishes. The package includes full board, with unlimited use of
the water sports facilities. The tropical paradise location with villas
lapped by azure sea only adds to the effect.
Family fun factor: A quality kids club is available for half-day
excursions and trips, leaving afternoons free for family kayaking
and catamaran sailing.
THE DETAIL Scott Dunn offers seven nights from 7,715 for a
family of four, B&B and flights. 020 8682 5075, scottdunn.com
Have a budding Americas Cup competitor in your ranks? Then

head to Turkey, for just the right amount of wind and sea motion
to learn how to sail properly. RYA dinghy or windsurfing tuition is
on hand throughout the day so that families can learn new skills
together. Swimming and tennis lessons with video analysis are
available too. Six kids clubs are included and interconnecting
rooms are available at no extra cost.
Family fun factor: Bikes are free to hire for rides to local
villages and places of interest.
THE DETAIL Neilson offers seven nights from 2,716 for
a family of four, full board with flights included.
0333 014 3351, neilson.co.uk
FOOD & TRAVEL
This page, top

and below:
enjoy the Turkish
sun and sea.
Opposite,
water sports and
beach villa in
the Maldives
PHOTOGRAPHER
activities
FOOD
& TRAVEL
food
& travel 123
23
RECIPES
CHATEAU DES VIGIERS

DORDOGNE, FRANCE
Proof that a successful family holiday doesnt have to
include a beach. Replace buckets and spades with
golf clubs and spend a week nurturing their swing (and
yours) on the on-site course. This dreamy, 16th-century
chateau with its own vineyard and spa, has two outdoor
pools and plenty of space to play when youre looking
forward to enjoying some R&R.
Family fun factor: If daily golf lessons sound too much
like hard work, there's a labyrinthine prehistoric cave
with original cave paintings nearby.
THE DETAIL Powder Byrne offers seven nights, 2,760
for a family of four. 020 8246 5300, powderbyrne.com
ST NICOLAS BAY RESORT HOTEL & VILLAS

CRETE, GREECE
All the activities you could want are on hand at St Nicolas

Bay, with enough panache to keep even the trendiest
parents happy. You get the privacy and flexibility of a villa
and the facilities and practicalities of a resort. Activities
are designed for all the family, with bikes of various sizes,
snorkels and surfboards.
Family fun factor: After a day's activities, open-air movies
are screened on the restaurant's veranda with comfy bean
bags to snuggle down in.
THE DETAIL Seven nights in a two-bedroom bungalow
with private pool from 7,620 for a family of four, with half
board. 00 302 841 090 200, stnicolasbay.gr
120
24
FOOD & TRAVEL
Left and above:

on the water in
Menorca; Grand
Isle Resort in
the tropics
GRAND ISLE RESORT & SPA

EXUMA, BAHAMAS
Included in your booking at a spacious villa within this
smart island resort, you have a golf cart seating four to
buzz about in, snorkelling equipment, ocean kayaks and
surf boards. Family activities include beach volleyball,
treasure hunts, kite-flying and weekly beach bonfires.
Family fun factor: Adults with children aged from
eight years old can take tours that include swimming
with pigs and feeding iguanas.
THE DETAIL Seven nights in a two-bedroom villa
from 2,310, 00 242 358 5000, grandisleresort.com
MINORCA SAILING CLUB

BALEARICS, SPAIN
Set on picturesque Fornells Bay, this sailing school-cum-holiday resort

is up there with the best-equipped in the world, with a full range of
Olympic-grade crafts from Lasers to eight-person Vareos. Daily tuition
is included in the price and extra sessions are available at no extra cost
for those whove caught the sailing bug (or who need a little extra help).
When the masts come down theres a host of activities on offer from
volleyball and trapeezing for teenagers, and babysitting services too.
Family fun factor: Children end their trip with myriad awards and
certificates, with the week culminating in a race on their chosen craft,
which parents can take part in too.
THE DETAIL Seven nights from 6,650 for a family of four, including
flights. 020 8948 2106, minorcasailing.co.uk
PHOTOGRAPHER
Above and left: see

paddling pigs soak
up the sun; or go and
meet a hungry iguana
FOOD
& TRAVEL
food
& travel 123
25
RECIPES
KINDERHOTELS HOTEL ALPENROSE

TYROL, AUSTRIA
CASTIGLION DEL BOSCO

TUSCANY, ITALY
Every destination in the Kinderhotels group is designed

specifically for families, from the no nippers, no entry policy
to the 60 hours of childcare that are included in the room
price. Nestling in the foothills of the Alps, Hotel Alpenrose is
a treasure-trove of good memories waiting to happen. Pack
yourself a picnic and explore the Tyrols wildflower meadows,
ride Icelandic ponies or take part in daily acting classes.
Family fun factor: As well as the on-stage drama, families can
also enjoy the on-site petting zoo, goat farm, climbing wall and
all manner of holistic outdoor activities.
THE DETAIL Seven nights in an apartment, 2,310 for a family
of four. 00 43 5673 2424, hotelalpenrose.at
Close your eyes and imagine a beautifully-restored, 800-year-old

Tuscan wine estate. It will probably look like this one. Families
are lavishly catered for here with activities including archery, golf,
horse-riding, tennis and even Italian language classes. Over 12s
can join their parents at the on-site culinary academy, where all can
learn to make fresh pasta and stunning Italian desserts together.
Family fun factor: Try the Tuscan Night Safari to spot wild boar by
torchlight or nurture young Nostradamuses with private astronomy
classes, taken in the estate's observatory.
THE DETAIL Seven nights in two interconnecting rooms,
10,920 for a family of four. 00 39 0577 1913001,
ccccastigliondelbosco.com
Austria photo by Tiroler Zugspitz Arena
Below, Kinderhotels
has activities for
the whole family to
enjoy the beauty of
the Austrian Tyrol
Families are lavishly catered for here with activities including archery, golf, horse-riding,
Above, left to right: Hotel Alpenrose; Castiglion del Bosco is one of the most luxurious destinations in Tuscany; its pool and rustic exterior
26
FOOD & TRAVEL
Photos by National Trust/Jennie

Woodcock; National Trust/Ian Shaw
Kids baking
ESTANCIA LOS POTREROS

SIERRAS CHICAS, ARGENTINA
STACKPOLE ESTATE
PEMBROKESHIRE
Perfect for any pony-loving clan, this is run by an AngloArgentine family, with a herd of over 80 horses at this working
cattle and stud farm, catering for all abilities from beginners to
experienced riders. Families can trek together through rugged
hills and lowland meadows, or help the gauchos round up
and care for young horses.
Family fun factor: Explore the estate on horseback, help with
herding the foals, or learn to lasso with a rancher.
THE DETAIL In the Saddle offers seven nights from 7,715 for
a family of four. 01299 272232, inthesaddle.com
Whether its kayaking, fishing, building bush camps or surfing,

you and your family will love this National Trust-owned estate.
An internationally important nature reserve, make sure to look
out for otters and seabirds as you explore. Worn out? Take a
relaxing picnic down to one of the nearby, beautiful beaches
or admire the view at Boshertons vast lily pond.
Family fun factor: Younger kids will love the vast outdoor play
areas, while local tearooms provide some family downtime.
The detail: Seven nights in a three-bedroom cottage from
650 during high season. nationaltrust.org.uk
Top: the Stackpole
Estate. Middle and
below: Argentinean
adventures
PHOTOGRAPHER
tennis and even Italian language classes. Theres an on-site culinary academy too
FOOD
& TRAVEL
123
food
& travel 27
27
This page, clockwise from

top left: Manta rays;
up close and personal;
lazy days; snorkelling
for surprises. Opposite,
clockwise from top left:
dolphins in the Dominican;
the countrys sandy beaches;
Maldivian paradise
Children and animals go together like jelly and ice cream, so why not make them the
Fun with Flipper
A dip with dolphins will stay with your

youngsters for life and it takes just
four hours to reach the Azores where
they can swim with Atlantic, Spotted
and Bottlenose dolphins. Without
feeding or tricks to attract the curious
creatures, the boat trips claim a 97 per
cent success rate for wild encounters.
If you want to combine wildlife with
tropical beach time and sunloungers,
head further west to the Caribbeans
Dominican Republic, where kids can
swim with trained dolphins in a ringfenced dolphinarium at Punta Cana.
An hours Royal Swim includes a
memorable dorsal tow and foot push.
THE DETAIL Thomas Cook is offering
seven five-star, all-inclusive nights
in the Dominican Republic from
1,029pp, including flights. 01733
224800, thomascook.com; The Royal
Swim costs 67 for children, 120
for adults, dolphindiscovery.com; for
the Azores, consult Sunvil, 020 8568
4499, sunvil.co.uk
focus of your holiday? Jo Gardner finds out more
The sight of a Manta ray slowly

unfurling its wings like subaqua sails
carries a family silence guarantee
particularly in the Maldives from
May to November. The most famous
hotspot is the deserted island lagoon
of Hanifaru, where hundreds gather
to feed. Want to mix in Darwinian
biology lessons? Try the Galapagos
Islands, whose nutrient-rich waters
contain over 2,900 marine species.
THE DETAIL Scott Dunn offers
seven nights including breakfast at
the Maldives Anantara Dhigu from
6,360 for a family of four, including
flights, speedboat transfers and an
introductory dive. 020 3603 5886,
scottdunn.com; for the Galapagos
consult Journey Latin America, 020
3432 9171, journeylatinamerica.co.uk
Photos by Carl Pendle; Ed Ralph; Mike

Johnston; Patrick Neckman; Gary
Latham; Mirjam Bleeker
Snorkelling with rays
travel strap
On safari
Storybook animals walk off the pages and

into the bush in South Africas Eastern Cape,
where accommodation is safe, mealtimes
flexible and babysitters available. Just one
hour ahead of GMT, the areas malaria risk is
negligible compared to other parts of Africa
and youngsters can expect to see the Big
Five at reserves like Kariega and Kwandwe.
If you want more than pure safari, Tanzania
stirs bleached powder sand into the holiday
pot, alongside wilderness like the Ngorongoro
Crater. And just one stop north is Kenya too.
THE DETAIL Audley Travels 15-day Highlights
of South Africa costs from 2,035pp visiting
Cape Town and Addo Elephant Park, including
flights, accommodation and excursions. 01993
838000, audleytravel.com; Keyna and Tanzania,
Expert Africa, 020 8232 9777, expertafrica.com
24
FOOD & TRAVEL
travel strap
Bear necessities
Forget Paddington whether

theyre Black, Polar or Grizzly,
your kids wont stop talking about
that time they saw the real deal.
Canadas British Columbia is a
stellar opportunity to see grizzlies
among snowcapped mountains
and shimmering lakes. And
travel further north to Alaska,
where a short plane hop from
Homer takes you to Hallo Bay.
On a deserted beach beneath
volcanoes, theyll see coastal
Brown bears fishing for
salmon that swim in from
the Pacific Ocean.
THE DETAIL Explores 13-day
Family Western Canada Pioneer
tour offers a Grizzly sanctuary
visit and bear spotting, alongside
white water rafting and a glacier
walk from 2,357pp and 1,994
per child (8+) including ten nights
camping, most meals and flights.
01252 883593, explore.co.uk; for
Alaska, consult, hallobay.com
Opposite, clockwise from top left: majestic
beasts; Franschhoek, South Africa; kids
on safari; majestic sightings; jeep jaunts; a
cheetah observes. This page, above: bear on
the move. Below: family vibes all round
Canadas British Columbia is a stellar

opportunity to see grizzlies among
mighty fine snowcapped mountains
and shimmering lakes
Photos by Audley Travel; Angela Dukes; Shutterstock
Gorillas in the midst
With fewer than 900 mountain gorillas remaining

on Earth, options for tracking them are in decline.
The best areas for sightings that are likely to turn
your family into lifelong conservationists are in
the lushly forested peaks straddling Rwanda
and Uganda. Its an incredible thrill with scouts
leading small groups to the habituated animals,
where you sit and observe gorilla families at
close quarters. Rwanda, the smaller of the two
countries, lends itself better to shorter trips perhaps combined with a safari or beach holiday
- while Uganda is suited to older children who
are able to travel long distances.
THE DETAIL Abercrombie & Kent has a four-night
Uganda Gorilla Safari from 3,025pp including
transfers, tracking guide, luxury accommodation
and meals, but excluding international flights.
01242 855405, abercrombiekent.co.uk; return
flights with Turkish Airlines start at 422pp via
Istanbul, turkishairlines.com
FOOD & TRAVEL
24
Play with penguins
travelA sure-fire
strap
hit with kids, Penguins can be
This page, clockwise from top left:

Boulders Beach; pony-trekking;
Phillip Island at dusk; Fairy
Penguins come out to play. Opposite,
clockwise from top: elephant
memories; time for a scrub; getting
ready to ride; in the saddle
At a canter
CARROT, FENNEL, GOATS CURD AND ORANGE SALAD

F&T WINE MATCH Honeysuckle and citrus avoured, bright,
nutty Australian sparkling (eg Jansz Premium Cuve NV)
24
FOOD & TRAVEL
Scotlands close proximity makes it ideal

for novices to have a go - the sparse,
rugged countryside offering a tranquil
setting for outings on smaller, gentle horses
and ponies that are just the right size for
youngsters. After somewhere a bit warmer?
Spains Andalucia has mountains, pine
forests and beaches, perfect for riders of
all ages. Choose a family beach ride where
horses trot or gallop into the surf, and
you can then swim alongside. Magical.
PICK THE PACKAGE Equestrian Escapes
offers a weeks guided riding in Andalucia
including accommodation and equipment
hire from 850pp. 01829 781123,
equestrian-escapes.com; for Scotland
consult Highlands Unbridled, 01408
622789, highlandsunbridled.co.uk
Photos by Cape Town

Travel; Phillip Island Nature
Parks; Angela Dukes
found on Phillip Island off Melbourne. At

sunset, youll see a parade of 33cm-tall
Fairy Penguins emerge from the surf,
waddle along Summerland Beach and
dive into their burrow. You can also
get a ranger commentary, or watch in
the dark through night-vision goggles.
Alternatively, build a day into a South
African itinerary to see the colony off
Cape Towns Boulders Beach.
THE DETAIL Steppes Travel has a
13-day self-drive in Australia, travelling
the Great Ocean Road, ending at
Phillip Island from 1,995pp based
on two people including flights
and accommodation, 01258 787512,
steppestravel.co.uk; Tropical Sky has an
11-day Cape Town and Garden Route
Circular self-drive tour with flights and
accommodation from 1,399pp, 01342
886528, tropicalsky.co.uk
travel strap
Elephant safari
Thailands Asian elephant is so

revered it once graced the national
flag. Near the northern city of Chiang
Mai, bespoke camps have experiences
geared towards kids, such as bareback
riding through the rainforest at Makha
Elephant Village. In the Golden Triangle
youll also find exclusive resorts like Four
Seasons and Anantara that run reserves
for rescued street elephants. If some of
your brood are too young to ride, then
head east to Nepals Chitwan National
Park where they can feed bananas to
baby elephants, and possibly see a
Bengal tiger. Alternatively, Africas ellies
can be seen at Botswanas Okavango
Delta, notably Abu Camps orphanage.
THE DETAIL Blue Elephant Tours private
seven-day North Thailand tour includes
an interaction day and elephant hospital
visit, along with transfers and hotels from
1,245pp based on two people, 00 66
818 843295, blueelephantthailandtours.
com; Thai Airways return flights from
561pp, thaiairways.com
If some of your brood are too young

to ride, then head east to Nepals
Chitwan National Park where they
can feed bananas to baby elephants
FOOD & TRAVEL
24
SANI RESORT, GREECE
Blue sea and white sand aplenty are found

on the gorgeous Kassandra Peninsula, where
Sani's new three-bedroom family suites
charm across the ages. Modern and fresh
designs with marble bathrooms and all modcons, the suites sleep seven comfortably. Kids
have access to two pools, and a 30-minute
beach 'babe watch' allows parents to enjoy
the tranquility of the resort with peace of
mind. A private garden and expansive lounge
are great for cooling kids down after playing.
Suites come with four hours baby-sitting
included each day, giving Mum and Dad time
to head to the spanking-new couples spa
suite where theyll be the centre of attention.
Family suites from 810, sani-resort.com
Looking for somewhere new to take everyone
BEACHES TURKS
AND CAICOS
Family fun in the

sun abounds at
this Sandals-run
resort. For mini-mes,
the Sesame Street
programme will
cause a stir as they
bake with the Cookie
Monster, munch
breakfast with Elmo
and go on a trash
to treasure creative
play session lead by
Oscar the Grouch.
All ages can enjoy
the offering, and
those in double
figures are catered
for as much as the
younger ones with
tween spas, sailing,
and outrageous
waterparks. Kids
camps, hosted by
certified nannies,
mean that parents
can indulge in their
surroundings, sipping
on cocktails by the
pool, or diving in
some of the world's
clearest waters.
All-inclusive rooms
from 2,185pp,
beachesresorts.co.uk
FOOD & TRAVEL
Sleep
IL SALVIATINO, FLORENCE
Chic and kid-friendly, this sumptuous hotel ticks all

the right boxes. Elegant interiors set the tone for a
luxe retreat, and the Spa Il Salviatino drives it home,
offering a range of treatments for adults and kids
(ages six and up). The menu includes butter cuddles
massages to nourish young skin, mini-manis and teen
facial treatments. Downtime for the whole clan awaits.
Junior family suite from 355, salviatino.com
places to stay
COWORTH PARK, ASCOT

This beautiful estate just outside of London wows with its
equine programme, tailored to suit children of all skill levels.
The area is known on the horsey scene, and the hotel
resplendent within parkland is the perfect place to saddle
up. Here, four- to 13-year-olds can enjoy daily Pony Camps
during the holidays lasting one to three days. They include
riding lessons, grooming and stable management. Having been

served gourmet lunches straight from the Coworth kitchens,
nippers spend the afternoons on obstacle courses and polo
sessions. Sleeping in converted stables is on-theme and copper
rolltop tubs make bathtime a joy after a hard day in the field.
One day from 200, rooms from 295. dorchestercollection.com
away this summer? Try these for inspiration, on home shores and further afield
over
OLD SWAN AND MINSTER MILL, COTSWOLDS
Set in the ancient village of Minster Lovell in the southern fringes of the
Cotswolds, the Old Swan and its less posh cousin Minster Mill provide the
perfect setting for an action-packed getaway. The hotel not only has its own
fly-fishing rods for you to borrow, but they can also arrange for a ghillie to
guide you through the dark art of landing one of the rainbow or native brown
trout that hide amongst reeds along the pretty Windrush river. You can also
catch wonderful sights such as red kites circling overhead and pheasant
being flushed from the undergrowth. There is also a tennis court, croquet
lawn, outdoor chess, resident hens, ducks and a cat (not all in the same pen).
Board games can be whipped out should the weather turn inclement. Meals,
including a superb breakfast, are taken in the casual surrounds of the Old
Swan. Family rooms (sleeps four) from 295, oldswanandminstermill.com
Chalet Baby Bear, Chamonix
A home away from home vibe with added

holiday excitement, this four-person chalet
is a super option for those looking for local
colour. Family adventure packages get you
close to the action as you rock climb, go
on nature-spotting trails and walk huskies
through the flora and fauna of the valley
forests. A private chef gives parents a
break from their routine, and one nights
baby-sitting is included too. From 3,375
per week, amazoncreek.co.uk
FOOD & TRAVEL
39
Kids cooking
Wilmslow Kitchen Cookery School CHESHIRE
La Cucina Caldesi LONDON
The only catering school in central London dedicated

entirely to Italian cuisine, at La Cucina kids will sample the
most authentic tastes inspired by the hearty meals that
mamma Caldesi served to Giancarlo (the schools founder)
when he was a boy. Summer dishes are likely to include
crispy bruschetta drizzled with oil and buttery spinach
ravioli seasoned with sage. The lesson culminates in a group
feast, which parents can attend too. 45. Ages 6-12, group
size 16. 10.30am-1pm, 27 July. 020 7487 0750, caldesi.com
Founders Sarah and David Bridge learnt their trade from the
best in the game, including Gordon Ramsay and Michel Roux
Jr. The kitchen is less than a year old and each budding chef
has their own cooking station so they can make the most of
the in-depth workshops. There is something for everyone from
chocolate making to Italian. Our favourite is the afternoon tea
class, a sumptuous morning of meringue kisses, savoury bites
and delicate cakes. Children will learn techniques such as choux
pastry and precision baking, emerging with enough skills to
host their own tea parties. 35. Ages 9+, group size 12. 9.45am2pm, 26 May. 07725 120128, wilmslowcookeryschool.co.uk
Kids
COOKERY
COURSES
Give your budding Atherton, Hartnett or White the start they crave with
Imogen Leperes round-up of the UKs top cookery schools for kids
7here are few better places to master the slippery art of sh

preparation than in the kitchen of Rick Steins original seafood
restaurant in Padstow, overlooking the bay where ingredients
are caught. The classes are divided into a demonstration by
the restaurants own chefs and then afterwards a chance for
kids to put their new skills into practice as they llet, trim and
prepare at sh. A typical menu includes lemon sole gouMons,
red mullet, and buttermilk pancakes with berry coulis. While
the Godfather of sh himself no longer teaches, his ofce is
next door and he has been known to pop into classes now and
then to see how theyre going. 72. Ages 8-11, group size 16.
10am-1pm, 29 July. 01841 532700, rickstein.com/school
40
FOOD & TRAVEL
Photos by Anna McCarthy; David Griffen;

Leiths; The Seafood Restaurant
Padstow Seafood School CORNWALL
Billingsgate Seafood School LONDON
Right above the famous sh market, this has to be one of

the most exciting venues for a class. The experts here are
running a series of father and child classes throughout
June, but the Dads Sunday Shellsh Brunch is our pick
of the catch learn how to shuck and smoke scallops,
prepare squid and round off the morning with a prawn
and samphire salad to take home to the rest of the family.
80 (adult plus child). Ages 7+, group size 10-12. 9.30am12.30pm, 28 June. 020 7517 3548, seafoodtraining.org
Cooks YORKSHIRE
Housed in a gothic mansion that has been home to the Duke

of Norfolks family for over 400 years, the kitchens of Cooks,
The Carlton School of Food are sure to stir the imagination.
The half-day Taste and Travel class will feed mind and body with
dishes from around the world accompanied by anecdotes about
each region from the guest chef. Students will learn where their
favourite ingredients are produced as they rustle up mainly
Italian and Spanish, and discover more unusual avours too.
50. Ages 8+, group size 10. 9.30am-1.30pm, 26-27 May.
01405 861662, cooksatcarlton.co.uk
The Raymond Blanc Cookery School

OXFORDSHIRE
Leiths LONDON
A rst for Leiths, this full-day class focuses on creativity,

beginning with cooking and ending with art. Kids will
spend the morning preparing their own lunch (with one
tutor for every eight students), before heading round the
corner to Kite Studios for puppet making inspired by the
mad Hatters tea party. 75. Ages 7-11, group size 12-16.
10am-3.30pm, 10-14 August. 020 8749 6400, leiths.com
Raymond Blanc has shepherded many of the top

names in cooking through the ranks, so your budding
chef is sure to be inspired by a visit to his famous
hotel, restaurant and cookery school, Le Manoir aux
QuatSaisons. It is set amid beautifully landscaped
gardens the mushroom valley and vegetable patch are
the perfect place to learn about seasonal ingredients. The
focus of the Adult and Child course is simple food with a
gourmet twist, such as poached egg with tomato fondue
and roast chicken with potato mousseline. Two tea breaks
with snacks and an informal lunch are included in the
price. 555 (adult plus child). Ages 7-12, group size 10.
9am-4pm, 27 June. 01844 278 881, belmond.com
Below, left to right: take a class at Le Manoir aux QuatSaisons in rural Oxfordshire; its delicate tea break bites are sure to get kids attention
FOOD & TRAVEL
41
back to school
Bordeaux Quay BRISTOL
A converted warehouse on the harbour, Bordeaux Quay hasbecome

synonymous with sustainable eating among Bristols foodies. The
focus of the Adult and Child course is on West Country produce and
the importance of seasonal eating. Pupils will make three simple
recipes in this hands-on session including bread, pudding and a
wholesome main, emerging with the condence and knowledge
to eat more ethically. 70 (adult plus child). Ages 6+, group size on
enquiry. 12pm-2.30pm, 7 June. 0117 943 1200, bordeaux-quay.co.uk
Swinton Park Cookery School YORKSHIRE
This school adjoins an 18th-century castle and makes good use

of its 8,090ha, with fruit, vegetables and herbs fresh from the
kitchen gardens. The half-day Mini Chefs class is perfect for little
ones who want to roll up their sleeves and get stuck in. They will
spend the afternoon baking cakes, cutting biscuits and making
dippy eggs with soldiers and leave proudly wearing their own
apron and clutching a goody bag. 50. Ages 6-9, group size 10.
2.30pm-5.30pm, 25 May. 01765 680969, swintonpark.com
Malton Cookery School YORKSHIRE
Malton brings the popular avours of Italy to Yorkshire with

its Little Italians cooking morning where kids will enjoy
making their own pasta and pizza bases, moulding mini
meatballs and learning how to use gelatin in jellies. The
cookery school has a homely feel thanks to wooden work
surfaces that are sure to put them at ease, but parents are
also welcome to stay and watch should younger children
be feeling nervous. 35. Ages 6-10, group size 12. 10am11.30am, 27 May. 01653 639096, maltoncookeryschool.co.uk
Augill Castle
LAKE DISTRICT
Yorkshire Wolds YORKSHIRE
An environmentally conscious school nestled in the hills,

Yorkshire Wolds uses local suppliers wherever possible to
reduce its carbon footprint. While food is the focus of the
Childrens Summer Camp here, there are also activities
like bird watching, farmyard animals to meet and fun with
glitter. The morning is spent cooking (and demolishing)
a two-course lunch, followed by an afternoon of foodthemed arts and crafts, including pasta paintings and
making clay swans. The day culminates with a ramble
around the lush local farmland, spotting wildowers and
looking out for the rst blackberries that will be coming
into season. 95. Ages 8+, group size 8. 10am-3.30pm, 28
August. 01377 227723, yorkshirewoldscookeryschool.co.uk
38
FOOD & TRAVEL
This pocket-sized Victorian castle has fairy-tale turrets that

children will love. They can also roam the grounds, gathering
eggs from the chicken coop and picking tomatoes from the
garden before heading to the traditional kitchens for lunch and
an afternoon of culinary fun. Classes are for private groups and
specially tailored proteroles are among the most popular
request). 400 (for up to 6 people). Ages 7-14, group size 2-6.
Any weekend, 12pm-4pm. 01768 341937, stayinacastle.com
Lucknam Park BATH
This informal class near the

historic city of Bath teaches
families how to make
nourishing dishes that they
can recreate at home. The
Adult and Child course menu is designed to show children
that healthy food can be appealing through dishes such
as tomato sauce with hidden vegetables. The sh ngers
with salty gherkin mayonnaise are sure to satisfy adults and
youngsters alike. 75. Ages 6-11, group size 10. 8.30am12.00pm, 25 July. 01225 74277, lucknampark.co.uk
T H E C A R LT O N S C H O O L O F F O O D
A PLACE TO DISCOVER FOOD

LEARN TO GROW, COOK,
PHOTOGRAPH OR WRITE
ABOUT FOOD.
BAKE, BUTCHER,
FORAGE & PRESERVE.
Demonstration classes, half and full days, masterclasses, residential courses.

Email info@cooksatcarlton.co.uk or Telephone 01405 861662 or visit
www.cooksatcarlton.co.uk
Inspiring, entertaining, hands-on

...cookery courses with Stephen Bulmer, previously with Raymond Blanc.
Two day, one day and half day courses, full of professional tips and techniques.
Wide range of course themes, for all ages and abilities. www.swintonpark.com
SWINTON PARK
Hotel Restaurant Cookery School Spa
Masham, Ripon, North Yorks. HG4 4JH Tel: 01765 680969
Kids Kitchen
Leiths and Kite Studios are collaborating
to create an exciting, creative and
educative set of activities for 7 11
year olds.
Kids will spend the morning cooking in
the Leiths kitchens before heading to
Kite Studios for some arty inspiration
with a food theme.
Whether its for the day or the week
they will take home some delicious
and nutritious nibbles and a brilliant
body of art work.
Mon 10 Fri 14 Aug 10.00 16.00
75 per day or 350 for the week
leiths.com/kidskitchen
Whether you are accomplished or

enthusiastic we have the course for you...
The Cookery School offers a unique opportunity for
anyone who enjoys cooking to perfect their skills
and master new techniques through a variety of
innovative courses.
For further details of our courses please call
reservations on 01225 742777 or visit
www.lucknampark.co.uk
Colerne, Chippenham, Wiltshire SN14 8AZ
/LucknamPark
@LucknamPark

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HOT LONG WEEKENDS

FREE KIDS special

ADVENTURES BEST UK BEACHES

Editor Renate Ruge

Renate Ruge Editor

Food and Travel magazine is published by Green Pea

STARTERS AND MAIN COURSES

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DESSERTS AND DRINKS

Cherry and rose petal jam

FOOD & TRAVEL

Italy, Croatia, Greece, Turkey, Spain & Portugal

Fortune & flavour

Croatia, Italy, Greece, Portugal, Spain & Turkey

HOT LONG WEEKENDS

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ADVENTURES BEST UK BEACHES

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Hotel news New openings in

Sun bursts Destination

Food news Scallops, salt and new

Food festivals A UK round-up

48 hours Do Baku, Salisbury

Travel news Icelandic caves and

Drinks news Manchesters bar

Restaurant news Locanda

Kitchen confidential William

In season Cherries are red,

Star pic Three-Michelin-star

When the boat comes in

Emerald smiles TV cook

TRIED AND TASTED

Salads of substance Healthy

Courses and deli Living off the

Food cover: Steve Painter. Travel cover: Shutterstock

Latvian spirit Michael Raffael tries

Devon is a place on Earth Marc

Restaurants Clos Den Sens, May

Places to stay Bedding down in

The wine column Expert Adam

Reader Awards This years

Competition Win a Slow Food

Reader offers Free kids

After hours Chef Nobu-san

AMALFI COAST, ITALY

FOOD & TRAVEL

SPAIN Iberia Express recently launched a new route from London

FOOD & TRAVEL

You may have seen military reconstructions

Photos by Andrea Migliorati/Foto Gierre; Hong Kong Tourism Board; M Fasol;

USA American Airlines has just started ying from Birmingham

For a potted Danish history, catch a boat

Exclusive hideaway Nimb boasts its own take

Built on a reclaimed military practice ground,

Noma may have worn the worlds best

For industrial chic, don your duster coat

Set aside an afternoon for the Harbour Bath

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