Puppy Raising Manual

Puppy Raising Manual
Produced by the Puppy Raising Department of Guide Dogs

for the Blind exclusively for puppy raising volunteers
2008 Guide Dogs for the Blind

All rights reserved
The information in this manual may not be reproduced without written permission
from the Puppy Raising Department of Guide Dogs for the Blind.
This manual is the property of Guide Dogs for the Blind.
DEDICATION
We dedicate this manual to the remarkable individuals and families who open
their homes and give their hearts, their time, and their dedication to the puppies
in their care. Due to your generosity, students at GDB are given an amazing gift:
a partner who allows them enhanced mobility and access, as well as a loyal and
loving companion. We greatly appreciate your being our ambassadors with the
public and for spreading the Guide Dog message every day. Thank you also to
those of you who work with us performing many other tasks such as public
speaking, outreach to students, and fundraising. It would be impossible to
complete our mission without you, and on behalf of all those we serve, you have
our eternal gratitude.
With deepest appreciation,
Nancy E. S. Gardner
President & Chief Executive Officer
11/2007
FORWARD
Your puppy raising mission includes nurturing and socializing a puppy to
become a guide, a prized member of our breeding stock or a beloved pet. Our
organizational mission is dependent upon the informed, positive information
that you supply your community about dog care, our puppy raising program
and our graduate services. Thank you for your many contributions.
Each puppy is different and has his very own personality and charm. Your daily
effort and love combined with the support and training of our expert staff helps
to develop your puppy to his highest potential. We are here to provide
information, training and support. With this manual, the training provided by
your club leader, the supervision and support of your puppy raising advisor,
and the assistance of the Puppy Raising staff, you will have the tools necessary
to fulfill this very special community service project.
We appreciate your commitment to help us create lifelong partnerships. We are
proud to have you as members of the Guide Dog Family.
Brent Ruppel
Director of Community Operations
TABLE OF CONTENTS
1. Introduction
1-1 Mission
1-2 History
The Guide Dog family
What is expected of you
1-3 Our dogs
The breeding program
Life in the kennels
Veterinary care
1-4 Raiser support and opportunities
2. Preparing for puppy raising
2-1 Support
Getting Started
Introducing your team
Solving problems
2-2 Creating a safe, secure environment
Suggested first aid kit supplies
Poisons
2-3 Outdoor confinement and housing
Fence requirements
2-4 Equipment (and how to use it)
The crate
The ex-pen
The tie-down
The dragline
The leash and collar
The headcollar
The chain training collar
2-5 Your puppys arrival
Prepare your home
On the trip home
At your home
2-6 What it means to raise a Guide Dog puppy
2-7 Dos and donts of puppy raising
2-8 Puppy raising etiquette
3. Caring for your puppy
3-1 Feeding
Guidelines to promoting good eating habits and protecting
health
Changing your puppys food
Tips to remember when feeding your puppy
Keeping your puppy fit and healthy
Body Score and Conditioning Systems
Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2008 Puppy Raising Manual/Table of Contents
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3-2 Relieving
Teach your puppy to relieve on-leash, on command
3-3 Grooming
Brush your puppy every day
Regular paw care is important
Ear cleaning can prevent ear infections
Eyes may need to be cleaned also
Clean your puppys teeth every week
Bathing your pup
3-4 Exercise and play
Teach your puppy to play interactively with you (without
using a toy)
Controlling play with your puppy
Tug game procedures
Hide-and-seek game procedures
3-5 Trains, planes and automobiles
Guide Dogs public access for puppies
Transportation of program and career change dogs
Traveling with and without your puppy
Lost puppy procedures
4. Health care
4-1 Working with veterinarians

Payment of veterinary expenses
The physical characteristics of a dog
4-2 Emergencies
4-3 Vaccinations and deworming
4-4 Females in season
4-5 Spay/neuter and hernias
4-6 Fleas, ticks and parasites
Flea and tick control
Heartworm prevention
5. Training principles
5-1 Philosophy
How to be an effective teacher
Give effective commands
Pattern desired behaviors
How a dog learns
5-2 Rewards
Reward and correct consistently
Approved rewards
5-3 Corrections
How and when to correct your puppy
How to do a leash and collar correction
Unacceptable corrections
5-4 Know about no
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6. Training techniques
6-1 Important behaviors

Behaviors to report to your leader
Essential behaviors
Good house manners
6-2 Socialization
6-3 Commands
Preparing your puppy to learn commands
Training commands for raisers
7. What's next for your puppy
7-1 Saying goodbye

7-2 When your puppy returns to Guide Dogs
7-3 Training
Pattern training
Guide Dog training phases
7-4 In class
7-5 Graduation
Sponsored teams
In-home training procedures
Graduation for breeding stock
7-6 After graduation
7-7 How Guide Dogs places the puppies you raise
8. Policies, forms and resources
Puppy raising policy

Basic requirements of puppy raisers
Keeping puppies on-leash
Puppy toy and play policies
Puppy raising nutritional policy
Boarding female dogs in-season
Reasons for placing or retaining a puppy in the home
Helpful resources for puppy raisers
Fun things about my puppy form
Guide Dog graduation news release
Recall for training phase descriptions
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1-1 OUR MISSION

Guide Dogs for the Blind provides enhanced mobility to qualified individuals through
partnership with dogs whose unique skills are developed and nurtured by dedicated
volunteers and a professional staff.
Established in 1942, Guide Dogs for the Blind continues its dedication to quality student
training services and extensive follow-up support for graduates. Our programs are made
possible through the teamwork of staff, volunteers and generous donors. Services are
provided to students from the United States and Canada at no cost to them.
Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2008 Puppy Raising Manual / 1: Introduction
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Section 1-1
Mission
1-2 HISTORY
It all began with a dream...the dream of creating the first guide dog training school on
the West Coast. It was a dream shared by Lois Merrihew and Don Donaldson, who
volunteered their efforts along with many others. They recognized the need to help
wounded servicemen who would return from World War II without their sight. They
believed in the potential of dogs to serve as guides for the blind.
The school was incorporated in 1942 and began training dogs and instructing students in
a rented home in Los Gatos, California, south of San Jose. A German Shepherd named
Blondie was one of the first dogs trained. Blondie had been rescued from a Pasadena dog
pound. She was later paired with Sgt. Leonard Foulk, the first serviceman to graduate
from the new school.
In 1947, the school was moved to its present 11-acre campus in San Rafael, California, 20
miles north of San Francisco. In 1995, our other campus opened in Boring, Oregon, 25
miles east of Portland on 27 acres. Guide Dogs for the Blind has graduated close to
10,000 teams over the past 60 years.
The Guide Dog family

Puppy raisers
It takes a lot of people to produce a successful Guide Dog team. We'd like to start by
introducing you to other members of the Guide Dog family. You are now among 1,400
raisers who donate their time and effort in the care and socialization of our puppies.
Guide Dog puppy raisers are youths, adults, and youths affiliated with the 4-H program.
Guide Dogs for the Blind places puppies with raisers living in eight Western states:
California, Oregon, Washington, Arizona, Nevada, Idaho, Utah and Colorado.
Puppy raising leaders
All puppy raisers are members of a puppy raising club. These clubs are guided by a
leader; some clubs have several leaders. These dedicated volunteers hold regular club
meetings to teach puppy raisers how to raise, care for and train their new puppies. Each
leader has been trained by a Guide Dogs staff member. Leaders in clubs affiliated with
the 4-H program have also received training and certification through their state 4-H
office. All leaders are issued a Leaders Manual, which contains guidelines and
instructions specifically for club leaders.
The Puppy Raising Department
Raisers and leaders also work closely with members of the Puppy Raising Department at
Guide Dogs for the Blind. A Community Field Representative is assigned to your area.
Each CFRs territory includes 100 or more puppy raisers and up to 50 leaders and may
encompass several states.
CFRs provide hands-on training, advice and support to leaders and raisers in their
territories to improve their understanding of socialization and training standards
required by Guide Dogs for the Blind. They attend many field days and club meetings.
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Section 1-2
History
They also evaluate puppies, either at an evaluation site, in the home, at a Guide Dog
facility or in homes other than the raisers.
In addition, CFRs are responsible for helping in the recruitment of new leaders and
raisers. An important part of their job is to provide a better understanding of the puppy
raising program and Guide Dogs for the Blind.
The office staff at the California campus is responsible for:
Coordinating the naming of the puppies
Assigning puppies to new raisers
Issuing puppy raising supplies
Scheduling puppy deliveries (air and ground) and local pick ups
Scheduling the recall dates for dogs returning to the Oregon or California campus to
begin their formal training
Electronic communications with the puppy raising community, including Leader
Link and E-Bark.
Maintaining the Puppy Raising section of our website: www.guidedogs.com/forms
Community Connection, the electronic newsletter volunteers and friends of Guide
Dogs
Many department members also spend a great deal of time on the road traveling through
the eight states where Guide Dog puppies are placed.
Other Guide Dog staff
Other members of the Guide Dog family are also involved in your puppys life. The
Training Department staff are the ones who will eventually shape your pup into a
professional Guide Dog. Our veterinarians and their assistants help keep the dogs and
pups in the best of health. The Breeding and Kennel Department staff is responsible for
the whelping and early care of the pups. There are many other staff and volunteers who
work diligently toward a common goal of producing the finest dogs, training and services
in the country.
What is expected of you

Values:
As a puppy raiser for Guide Dogs for the Blind, we ask that you accept the values we
share and that these values will be reflected in your actions.
I am kind toward people towards people and animals and demonstrate respect for
their dignity and well-being.
I am inclusive and sensitive to all, regardless of disability, culture or ethnicity.
I am open to innovation and change.
I am accountable for my actions and our resources.
I value teamwork and good communications.
I help to create a supporting and trusting work environment.
I am honest and fair and act with integrity.
I balance professionalism with humor.
I continually work towards furthering the GDB mission.
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History
Code of conduct
We also ask that you follow our code of conduct as it applies to raisers. All employees,
volunteers and students in training at Guide Dogs for the Blind follow this code.
Purpose
Employees, volunteers and students are expected to observe certain standards of

performance and conduct to ensure that Guide Dogs mission and work is carried out in a
safe and orderly way and to ensure that we maintain high ethical standards throughout
our organization.
Standards of conduct
Our campuses and facilities are public places. Employees, volunteers and students are
expected to conduct themselves as they would in any public area. Conduct which is not
appropriate in public or which disrupts the safe and orderly operation of our business is
considered inappropriate. Conduct that is unsafe, unethical or illegal will not be
permitted. Types of conduct that could constitute grounds for immediate dismissal
include: physical violence; illegal acts such as theft, use or possession of illegal drugs or
weapons; sexual activity; and inhumane treatment of a dog.
The following are examples of the kinds of misconduct that will lead to disciplinary
action, up to and including dismissal:
Excessive absences or tardiness
Harassment in any form
Animal abuse or neglect
Falsification of records or other documents
Possession or use of illegal drugs or controlled substances
Theft, destruction or abuse of Guide Dogs' property or the property of others
Possession of weapons, firearms, or other potentially dangerous weapons or materials
on Guide Dogs property
Involvement in or encouragement of illegal activities
Acts of physical violence, or acts involving threats, intimidation or coercion
Repeated lack of cooperation or courtesy in working with others, or failure to perform
reasonable duties assigned
Unauthorized access to computer files or inappropriate use of computer networks
Disclosing or misusing private, proprietary or confidential information about Guide
Dogs
Unethical business practices or conflicts of interest
Undermining or subverting business decisions, unless they are reasonably believed to
be illegal or unethical
Failure to adhere to other policies and procedures at Guide Dogs for the Blind.
The above list is not all-inclusive. We ask that everyone conduct themselves with
reasonable and proper consideration for the welfare and rights of other employees,
volunteers and students and for the best interests of this organization. Your leaders are
provided with more detailed guidelines for puppy raising volunteers through the Leader
Manual. Your leader is responsible for passing all appropriate information on to you.
Please consult with your leader for additional information.
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Section 1-2
History
1-3 OUR DOGS

Guide Dog breeds
Guide Dogs for the Blind uses Labrador Retrievers, Golden Retrievers, and crosses
between Labs and Goldens as guides.
Selection of breeding stock
The finest dogs are chosen for our breeding program. They have been carefully selected
for the unique characteristics that are required to produce successful working guides.
Only those dogs that have met the organization's highest physical and temperamental
standards are included in the breeding program at Guide Dogs for the Blind.
Puppies are whelped from our breeding stock and cared for by professional kennel staff.
Our teams of veterinarians provide the finest care for our puppies and dogs through all
stages of their development.
The breeding program

The breeding program at Guide Dogs for the Blind was established in the late 1940s.
Currently, the breeding colony consists of purebred Labrador Retrievers (black and
yellow) and Golden Retrievers. Our Labrador Retrievers have historically enjoyed the
greatest success as working guides and therefore, represent the majority of dogs we
produce. Since 1994, a fourth variety has been introduced: the Labrador Retriever/Golden
Retriever cross. This fourth variety has proven to be a highly successful addition to our
program. The Guide Dog breeding program produces 95 percent of the puppies
necessary to support both of our training facilities.
In recent years, Guide Dogs has worked closely and cooperatively with other dog guide
and service organizations in order to establish their breeding programs. Through these
relationships, new blood lines have been introduced into our breeding colony. These new
lines have allowed Guide Dogs to improve the qualities in our dogs required to produce
successful working guides.
The selection of our breeding stock is done by our breeding manager together with input
from members of our Training and Veterinary Departments. When dogs begin their
formal guide work training, they undergo a complete physical examination that includes
hip x-rays and eye examinations. In addition, if an individual dog is being considered as a
potential breeder, the breeding manager reviews the dog and its littermates as to their
health, temperament and trainability.
Once a dog is added to the breeding program, it is placed by a Guide Dog staff member
into a carefully screened custodial home. Our breeding stock dogs enjoy life as pets in
the custodial homes of loving families who live within a 50-mile radius of the California
campus. Raisers who become breeder keepers of the dog they raised may live within 75
miles of the California campus.
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Our Dogs
Approximately 50 new breeders are added to the breeding program annually. Of these,
75 percent are female. Brood bitches whelp and raise their litters in the kennel facilities
at Guide Dogs.
Broods are retired from the breeding program prior to age 7. Stud dogs are used for
breeding more frequently and are retired due to age or when their production does not
meet the colony standards. Guide Dogs benefits from the services of consulting
specialists in the areas of canine ophthalmology and cardiology, and skilled staff who
track each dog via a comprehensive computer system from birth to retirement.
Life in the kennels

The Kennel Department is responsible for the care of all dogs that are not in training,
which includes: puppies, the older puppies that have been returned from their puppy
raising homes but have not yet begun training, the active and retired breeding stock, the
females and their newborn puppies, and career change dogs awaiting placement. The
dogs and puppies are under the supervision of our professional staff 24 hours a day.
This round-the-clock care allows for the monitoring of all births as they occur, care and
feeding of newborn puppies, efficient administration of medications and veterinary care,
and careful observation of dogs recovering from surgery.
When a female breeding stock dog comes into season, the Kennel Department oversees
her breeding with a stud dog or assists with artificial insemination. They work closely
with the Breeding Department and the Veterinary Clinic to determine proper timing to
ensure success.
The gestation period of the female is 63 days. She is brought to the whelping kennel five
days before the official due date of her puppies. To prepare for whelping, she is put in a
stall with a plastic wading pool lined with newspapers. The stall is warmed with radiant
heating coils through the floor. The stall has a closed circuit camera allowing monitoring
from the kennel kitchen during normal hours and from the on-campus studio apartment
after hours. A sign that the time is near is when the female starts to "nest" - she will tear
the newspapers into small pieces and settle into the pool. During birth, the kennel staff
assists when needed. This assistance may involve resuscitating newborn puppies,
clamping bleeding umbilical cords, and feeding females tired from a long whelp.
The newborn puppies are weighed daily for the first five days to ensure they are gaining
weight. If there is a puppy whose growth is lagging, the pup may be bottle-fed. Nursing
mother's milk is examined for discoloration and tested to ensure it contains the
appropriate nutrients and is free of infections.
If a mother has more puppies than she can handle, the pups may be transferred to
another mother who has whelped in the past 24-36 hours. If no such dog is available, the
puppies will be bottle-fed.
The puppies spend their first three weeks in the wading pool with their mother to nurse.
At 3 weeks of age, the wading pool is taken away and they are put on the floor on
shredded newspaper. At this time they start eating solid food. The puppies also start
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Section 1-3
Our Dogs
getting daily socialization with our volunteer Toddler Puppy Socializers. They are
exposed to new people, toys of different textures, as well as new and interesting scents.
At 6 weeks of age the puppies are brought to the puppy kennel. It then takes another 10
days to 2 weeks until the mother's milk has completely dried up and she can return
home to her custodial family.
While they are in puppy kennel, the pups share stalls with their littermates. Each puppy
in a litter is identified by the mother's name, the shaved area on its coat, and a tattooed
number in both ears. This number is the same as the one eventually placed on its collar
when it leaves the kennel. All puppies in a litter have names that start with the same
letter of the alphabet. The puppies are given names taken from a list provided by raisers,
the keeper of the dam or other sources.
The puppy kennel is also the place where the puppies first experience the outside world.
Six days per week, they are socialized and walked on campus by volunteer Puppy
Socializers. From age 6 weeks until they leave for their new homes, the puppies begin
learning many new skills. Each puppy is introduced to walking on a leash, going up and
down stairs, as well as crate and surface exposure. Puppies also interact in a group play
session to experience socialization with other pups, as well as playing on various play
structures. Daily handling includes body massages and beginning exposure to mouth,
tail and paw handling. Puppies are also discouraged from chewing on inappropriate
objects, such as hands, clothing and leashes. When the puppies are about 8 weeks old,
they are ready to be placed with their raiser families.
In the receiving kennel there is a mix of older puppies returned by their raisers for
training, active and retired breeding stock and career change dogs. Reasons for their stay
include: veterinary care, boarding, temperament evaluation, breeding, training, or waiting
for placement.
In the kennel kitchen, the staff mixes the food for all the dogs under their care as well as
for all of the dogs in training. Each dog is assigned an amount of food, and this amount
is weighed out individually. As a rule, they are fed a high-quality dry food that has been
softened with warm water. The exceptions are those with increased nutritional needs,
such as females who are about to whelp or are nursing.
Veterinary care
The Veterinary Clinics at Guide Dogs' two campuses would be the envy of most
veterinarians in private practice with their hydraulic lift examining tables, scales and
modern surgery rooms. Everything is kept immaculately clean. It is obvious to visitors
that Guide Dogs places great stock in the care of its puppies and dogs.
Full-time veterinarians and a staff of technicians are supported by outside specialists
whenever needed, as well as volunteers. Veterinarians assist in whelpings by performing
caesarian sections if needed. When puppies are 3 weeks old, they are dewormed and
given nasal drops to protect them from developing kennel cough. At 5-6 weeks, they
begin receiving a series of vaccinations for parvo and other diseases. Their ears are
tattooed with an identification number they will carry throughout their lives. In the rare
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Section 1-3
Our Dogs
event that one of our dogs becomes lost or stolen, the tattoo will alert any veterinarian or
rescue organization to the fact that the dog is from Guide Dogs. At 8 weeks, the pups are
ready to be placed with raisers and will continue receiving vaccinations and care from
veterinarians in their local areas.
When the pups return to the campus for formal training at 12-18 months, their hips and
joints are x-rayed, their eyes and hearts checked, and they are given complete physical
exams including vaccinations and heartworm tests. Our veterinarians spay or neuter
those pups that haven't already had the procedure and are not being considered for
breeding.
Prior to being assigned to their blind partners, the young dogs are given a pre-class
physical. During class, veterinarians will meet with the students and provide medical
histories on their individual dogs as well as vaccination updates.
Breeding stock, dogs in training and foster care and some working guides are cared for
by our clinic staff. Staff also provide consultations with graduates and outside
veterinarians in the care of our puppies and guides.
Veterinary staff is on-call when emergency care is needed. They do a variety of
procedures including teeth cleaning and extractions. Using endoscopic cameras inside
the dog's body they can retrieve foreign objects, remove tumors or foxtails, and help
remedy chronic conditions such as coughing, sneezing, vomiting or diarrhea. Ultrasound
equipment is used to monitor the status of in-utero puppies, or to check a dog's heart
and other organs. EKGs and surgical procedures are part of the arsenal used by our
veterinarians to combat any number of conditions or diseases.
How puppies are chosen for placement with raisers:
Members of the Puppy Raising Department generally place Guide Dog puppies on a firstcome, first-serve basis. Placement by special request from raisers is discouraged because
doing so may leave puppies of "less desired" colors, breeds or sexes unplaced during
critical developmental stages. Puppies of a certain breed or sex may occasionally be
placed with a specific raiser (due to the raiser's experience, etc.) at the leader's or CFR's
recommendation.
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Section 1-3
Our Dogs
1-4 RAISER SUPPORT AND OPPORTUNITIES

Scholarships for youth raisers
Guide Dogs for the Blind has funded scholarships for our youth puppy raisers for many
years. We are pleased to offer this opportunity:
to provide an incentive for further education
to encourage the development of skills that will contribute to a more productive life
to provide recognition of commendable work and accomplishment in Guide Dog
puppy raising
Guide Dogs recognizes that the growth and success of its mission has been made
possible by the dedication and gracious donation of time, energy and heart of the youth
in the western states. Our scholarship application packets are distributed through puppy
raising club leaders annually in January. Applicants must be a senior in high school, a
previous (or current) puppy raiser for Guide Dogs for the Blind, and be pursuing an
education in any field of study at an accredited college, university, technical or trade
school. The Selection Committee meets to review finalists and awards are announced by
July 1st.
Internships
Another special opportunity for youth is our internship program. Each summer, youth
contribute both to the Guide Dogs program and to their own personal, educational, and
career development by interning at the California campus. An internship generally runs
for two weeks. Interns are assigned to a specific department, which could be the Puppy
Raising, Dog Placement, Veterinary Clinic, Public Information or any department at Guide
Dogs. Guide Dogs attempts to assign interns from outside the area to live in the homes
of staff members or other volunteers during their internships. For more information on
internships at our California campus, please contact the Volunteer Department at (800)
295-4050.
Career opportunities
Many of our raisers have gone on to become employees at Guide Dogs for the Blind. We
encourage all of our puppy raising volunteers to consider a meaningful career in the
Training Department or other departments at Guide Dogs. If you like dogs, enjoy working
with people, and want a career that makes a difference, the Training Department could
be the place for you (or someone you know)! Work with a team of professional
instructors who help provide enhanced mobility to qualified individuals through a
partnership with trained dogs.
Applicants must have at least a high school diploma. Additional educations in fields
such as life sciences, psychology, sociology, education, animal behavior, or veterinary
technician program are highly desirable. Hands-on experience with dogs is often
extremely valuable, but applicants without direct dog training experiences will also be
considered. Experience in animal related work that is deemed helpful includes military
or law enforcement K-9 handling, kennel or humane society work, horse training and/or
professional riding, zoo animal or marine mammal work, dog training and veterinary or
grooming facility work, and puppy raising. (Applications for the apprentice instructor
and licensed instructor positions will also be accepted, but please note that these
positions require extensive dog handling experience.)
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Raiser Support & Opportunities
Instructor Assistants - Instructor assistants work to promote good canine

behavior and enrich the kennel experiences for our dogs. They help to ease the
dogs transitions from their puppy raising homes to life in our kennels during
their formal guidework training. This entry-level program can lead toward a
career as a professional guide dog instructor. Qualified IAs may be accepted to our
three-year apprenticeship course.
Apprentice Instructors - Apprentice instructors receive in-depth education
about disorders affecting sight and adaptive mobility techniques. They also get
hands-on Guide Dog training experience, as well as opportunities to work directly
with our students who are blind or visually impaired. At the completion of the
apprenticeship course and testing by the California State Guide Dog Board,
successful candidates become licensed guide dog instructors.
Licensed Instructors - Licensed instructors are responsible for training
successful Guide Dogs and for instructing our students to safely and effectively
travel with a dog for enhanced mobility. Licensed instructors must have excellent
skills in delivering both classroom and practical instruction. They also participate
in follow-up visits to our graduates throughout the United States and Canada.
To find out more about these unique opportunities - please visit our website at
www.guidedogs.com or contact our Human Resource Department at (415) 499-4000.
Gift shop
Guide Dogs for the Blind has a gift shop at both the California and Oregon campuses.
The gift shop carries clothing with the Guide Dogs logo as well as a variety of gift items.
Raisers are entitled to a 10% discount at either gift shop. To visit our online gift shop
store, please visit our gift shop catalog on the internet.
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Raiser Support & Opportunities
2-1 SUPPORT
Getting Started
Once you have begun attending meetings with a local puppy raising group, you will be
learning about the puppy raising process, including the basics of guide dog puppy
handling, submitting an application for a puppy and the basic requirements of the
program.
In addition, you will receive a club activity description that will give you basic
information about the club and its functions. Information contained in this document
includes:
Calendar of Club Activities: regular meeting days, times and locations; details of any
other regular club outings and activities.
Specific Attendance requirements
Leader names and contact information
Club and GDB website information
Financial expectations and obligations: dog food, crate, toys, fees for outings, dues for
incidental club expenses (postage, copies, etc.)
Fundraising information: brief description of club fundraising activities and expected
raiser participation
Program Participation Requirements

A Guide Dogs for the Blind puppy raiser must be at least nine years of age. For raisers
under the age of 16, the following requirements must also be met:
Raisers under 16 years of age will raise a puppy under the mentorship of a designated
parent or other adult.
Parent(s) or adult mentor of youth under 16 will commit to and ensure that all
program requirements for puppy raising are met.
At least one parent/designated adult mentor will attend all events, meetings and
activities with youth under 16.
All family or household members that will handle the puppy at home or on outings must
attend at least one club meetings within each 3-month period. In this way, all members
of your household receive the same instruction and support while raising your puppy.
Meeting Attendance: It is important to note that all puppy raisers are required to attend
at least 80% of club meetings and outings during each six month period of participation
in the program.
For pups under 5 months, the minimum number of required meetings/activities is 4 per
month. For puppies over 5 months, the minimum number of required
meetings/activities is two per month.
On the occasion that a raiser cannot attend a meeting, he is required to contact the
leader and make arrangements for the puppy to be at the meeting, if possible. Equally
important to remember is that puppy raisers with puppies that are temporarily unable to
attend club events due to a veterinary issue will still attend business meetings.
Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2008 Puppy Raising Manual / 2: Preparing for puppy raising
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Section 2-1
Support
In addition to attending meetings and outings, you are expected to read and study this
Puppy Raising Manual in order to gain familiarity with all aspects of raising a puppy.
When you have attended a minimum of three consecutive meetings, you may submit your
completed volunteer application to the club leader. Your application may be approved
for a puppy after you have met the following requirements:
a. A successful home visit from your club leaders (e.g., no further
modifications to house or yard required).
b. Demonstration of a minimum level of puppy handling skills, including
appropriate use of commands, proper correction technique, appropriate
use of head collars, etc.
c. Completed a minimum of five days of puppy sitting of program puppy.
Puppy exchanges: Your club leaders will occasionally arrange for you to puppy sit for
another puppy in your club, and, likewise, for your puppy to spend a few days in another
puppy raising home. These puppy exchanges are an excellent way for your puppy to
experience new people and environments, and for you to learn more about handling
different types of puppies.
Puppy exchanges (also called puppy trades) are an integral part of the puppy raising
program and participation by all raisers and their puppies is required. Each raiser is
expected to participate in a minimum of six exchanges per year (more at discretion of the
club leadership or CFR). These exchanges are coordinated and monitored by a
designated leader or club member.
Puppy sitting: There will be times when you are not able to care for your puppy for a
period of time, due to a family vacation, a change in your schedule, an illness, etc.
Whether it is for a few hours or a few days, your leader will help you find a raiser to take
your puppy during that time. Please remember to coordinate puppy sitting with your
leader. He or she knows who has the time and is best suited to your puppys needs.
For more information, see Basic Requirements of Puppy Raisers in the Policies, Forms
and Resources section.
Introducing your team

Before you receive your puppy, you should know that there is a wonderful support
system of people who will help you through any problem or question that may arise.
First and foremost is your leader. Leaders are supported by the CFRs and other staff
members of the Puppy Raising Department, who are, in turn, advised and supported by a
host of veterinarians, instructors and other professionals.
The basic responsibilities of a leader include:
Teaching raisers the Guide Dog puppy raising policies and procedures.
Receiving and processing raiser applications.
Conducting a thorough home interview with each applicant and family to determine
suitability of the raiser and the home environment.
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Providing each raiser with their Puppy Raising Manual and other relevant material;
thoroughly reviewing the contents of the manual and other material with each raiser
when the puppy first arrives home and on a regular basis thereafter.
Teaching raisers the techniques and guidelines as established by Guide Dogs for the
Blind regarding puppy handling and socialization.
Maintaining medical records, monthly puppy raising reports, Project Records and
other documentation.
Serving as a liaison between Guide Dogs for the Blind staff and the raisers.
Working with the local CFR to determine the best possible environment for the
puppies.
Upholding the image of both Guide Dogs for the Blind and the 4-H organization (if
affiliated).
Solving problems
Before you become involved in Guide Dog puppy raising, you must understand that our
mission is to provide successfully trained guides to people who are blind or visually
impaired. Sometimes that involves making difficult decisions - such as a decision to
transfer a puppy to another raiser home. Likewise, you may be asked to accept a puppy
that was previously being raised in another home. Our leaders, CFRs and entire staff are
very committed and will make every effort to help you successfully develop your Guide
Dog puppy. If problems arise with your puppy, your leader and CFR will suggest various
procedures to help remedy them.
There are times, however, when certain problems cannot be resolved in the raiser home.
Sometimes, raising the puppy just doesn't work out - for any number of reasons. The
puppy may just not be right for a particular household. The time may not be right in the
raiser's life for a puppy. What we do know is that the vast majority of our raisers try very
hard to successfully raise a Guide Dog puppy, and we appreciate their efforts.
Possible steps to remedy an ongoing puppy problem:
Puppy evaluations to assess problems and progress

Temporary placement of the puppy to a foster raiser home
Permanent transfer to another raiser home
Career change - the puppy is dropped from the program and will be assigned to a
home as a pet (detailed in section 7: What's next for your puppy)
Puppy evaluation
Puppy evaluations are usually scheduled or requested by a leader or CFR, but can be
requested by another member of the Guide Dogs staff.
Evaluations are conducted by a Guide Dogs for the Blind employee either from their
home or at a Guide Dogs designated facility.
Evaluations can take place for medical, temperament, cosmetic or behavioral reasons.
Following evaluations, recommendations are made as to what should be done next,
which may involve specialized training techniques, temporary or permanent transfer
of the puppy, or career change.
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Foster raiser homes
Placing a puppy into a foster raiser home offers an opportunity to observe the
puppy's health or behavior outside the setting of his raiser home. The process can
help determine if the puppy's problems are the result of reactions to environmental
factors or human influence.
Permanent home transfer
Permanent home transfers are sometimes necessary if the puppy is not developing
properly physically, mentally, socially or behaviorally in the raiser home.
If your puppy is transferred to another home, you still will be invited to attend
graduation and meet the individual who receives the dog (as long as your puppy was
not transferred due to your abuse or neglect).
Even if your puppy was transferred to another home, you still may be eligible to
receive another puppy. This decision is made on a case-by-case basis. The option is
usually available if Guide Dogs for the Blind believes that the puppy placed into your
household was not a suitable match for your family.
You may also be eligible to receive another puppy at a later date if it is believed that
there were temporary or resolvable circumstances that prevented you and your family
from effectively managing or caring for your puppy at that time.
Puppies dropped from the program
A puppy will be dropped from the program if the puppy has a health, temperament,
or behavior problem that would prevent him from being an effective guide or if he
has a cosmetic flaw that would draw undue comment.
Usually the last raiser will be the first offered to receive their "career changed" puppy.
Circumstances that may prevent you from being offered your puppy back are:
Your puppy is dropped for inappropriate dog behaviors and you have one or more
dogs in your household that Guide Dogs believes may not be able to safely live
with your puppy. In the case you are raising another Guide Dog puppy, you will be
given the option of transferring your current Guide Dog puppy or receiving your
career change dog back.
Your puppy has exhibited assertiveness or other inappropriate behaviors toward
people.
For more information, see "Career Change" in section 7: Whats next for your puppy.
Dropping a puppy from the program is often difficult for a raiser family to accept. Please
remember that our goal is to provide people who have visual impairments with a dog that
can improve their ability to travel safely - one that is well mannered, healthy and easy to
control.
Guide Dogs has put together a strong team of staff and puppy club leaders to work with
you as you raise your puppy. Whenever you have a question about anything that relates
to puppy raising, please do not hesitate to call your puppy club leader. If he or she does
not know the answer, they will either find it for you or direct you to the necessary staff
member who can assist you. Please do not call other GDB employees, other departments
or students in class unless instructed to do so by your leader.
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Dispute Resolution
Puppy raisers are encouraged to present all Guide Dog-related concerns or complaints to
their club leader at the earliest possible time. Individuals involved in disputes within the
club should attempt to resolve the dispute in a constructive and respectful manner. The
leader should act as a mediator in club disputes if necessary.
If a raiser believes that the leader is not the appropriate person with whom to raise the
concern, or if the problem relates to the leader, the raiser should take the matter to the
Community Field Representative. If the matter is still not resolved to the raisers
satisfaction, the raiser may continue to raise the issue with the Puppy Raising Manager.
Public Confrontations
If you have a dispute with a member of the public about access or any other Guide Dogrelated issue, please contact your puppy club leaders immediately for guidance.
If you have a question or problem, the very first person to call is your leader.
If the leader doesn't have the answer or a solution to your problem, he or she
will call the area CFR and then relay the information to you.
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2-2 CREATING A SAFE, SECURE ENVIRONMENT

In a lot of ways, a puppy is like a child. You need to be aware of its environment and how
your pup's curiosity can sometimes lead it into danger. Some accidents are unavoidable,
but proper, careful supervision can go a long way to keep your puppy safe. Prevent the
following from happening to your puppy:
BEING HIT BY A CAR: Our highest death rate and incidence of trauma (both mental
and physical) is from puppies being hit by cars. Often it is the raiser's own car or the car
of a friend on their own property. Puppies hit by cars, even if they are not killed outright
or severely injured, may be dropped from the program due to their subsequent reactions
to cars and traffic.
DROWNING: Never leave a puppy unattended in an area with access to a swimming
pool. If you have a pool, you may teach the puppy how to swim to the steps, but do not
rely on this for total water safety. Do not leave a puppy unattended near any open body
of water. Ponds, rivers and streams can be just as dangerous as pools. Control your
puppy with a long-line or leash when you are around dangerous settings. Pools and
other large bodies of water must be fenced to keep the puppy out of the area when not
directly supervised.
POISONING: Poisons can cause death or injury to internal organs that may result in
your puppy being dropped from the program. Puppy-proof your house just as if you had
a toddler in your home. Do not let your puppy drink from puddles (some contain
dangerous anti-freeze) or other sources of water of uncertain purity.
INGESTING FOREIGN BODIES: Foreign objects that are swallowed can cause
obstructions in the stomach or intestines that must be surgically removed. The ingestion
and the surgery both place the pup at risk. Puppies need to be taught from the time that
they are young not to pick up objects from the ground, indoors and outdoors.
Suggested first aid kit supplies

Scissors - for cutting bandages and tape
Tweezers - for picking off ticks and foxtails or picking out pieces of glass
A roll of gauze - for wrapping bandages
Gauze pads - for making a bandage
A rectal thermometer (normal canine temperature is 101- 102.5 degrees)
Adhesive tape - for securing bandages
Blankets and towels - for covering a puppy to prevent shock
K-Y jelly or Vaseline - to lubricate a rectal thermometer
A flashlight - for checking ears and eyes
Neosporin Ointment - for use on minor wounds or burns
Hydrogen peroxide - for cleaning wounds
Styptic pencil/powder or alum powder - to stop bleeding nails
NEVER use these items without a veterinarian's instruction and approval:

Mineral oil - for use as a laxative
Hydrogen peroxide - to induce vomiting
Benadryl tablets/capsules - for allergic reactions
Boric acid solution - for soaking wounds
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Safe, Secure Environment
Poisons
In the case of a possible poisoning, consult a veterinarian immediately. Different poisons
require specific treatments, and many times the speed of your response can make a
crucial difference in your puppy's prognosis. After your puppy is stabilized, your
veterinarian should contact a Guide Dog veterinarian to determine what further
treatment should be provided.
Immediately after you have initially consulted with your veterinarian, inform your leader
of what has occurred and the advice you have received. Your leader will then contact
your area CFR.
Common substances that can be poisonous to dogs if ingested:

Ant stakes
Antifreeze
Chocolate
Fertilizers
Household or automotive cleaning products and solvents
Insecticides
Unprescribed or overdosed medications
Peach pits
Potato "eyes"
Raw fish
Raw onions
Rodent poisons
Snail bait
Tomato plants
Houseplants - this list contains only the most common types of poisonous plants. A
complete list is too large to be included here. Try to keep your puppy from eating any
plant. If he does, call your veterinarian.
Japanese Yew
Mistletoe
Oleander bushes
Philodendrons
Poinsettias
Here are some excellent additional references that you can refer to regarding poisons:
http://www.napcc.aspca.org
http://www.avma.org/pubhlth/poisgde.asp#top
(888) 426-4435 National Animal Poison Control Center (please note: this center does
charge a fee per call).
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Safe, Secure Environment
2-3 OUTDOOR CONFINEMENT AND HOUSING

A good way to ensure both the comfort and the safety of your puppy is to provide him
with adequate outdoor housing and confinement.
Fence requirements
Yard fences should be a minimum of five feet in height.

Fences must be secure to prevent a puppy from going over, under, through or around
them. Fences must prevent the puppies from escaping into the neighborhood or into
hazardous areas, such as nearby swimming pools, vehicles, livestock, etc.
If the fence is not 100 percent secure, a kennel run (preferably covered) is needed to
provide a safe relieving area. The following are some recommendations for kennels:
The kennel should be at least six feet wide, twelve feet long and six feet high.
The kennel run must be clean and dry.
The puppy must not be able to dig out of the kennel run.
Rubber horse-stall mats or large cement stepping stones placed side by side make an
inexpensive, puppy-proof, non-permanent kennel floor.
Shade and water must always be available.
A warm, dry dog house must be provided for the puppy when he is outside in the
kennel.
Kennel must be padlocked if no one is home so strangers cannot let the puppy out.
Use a clip to prevent your puppy from accidentally opening the latch.
General recommendations for confinement and housing:
Do not leave your puppy tied and unattended.

Temperatures over 85 degrees and below 30 degrees, including wind chill, can be life
threatening.
Do not use your fenced yard as a kennel run for the following reasons:
The average yard may contain poisonous plants.
Many young puppies will chew when left alone and may ingest enough grass,
twigs, plants, rocks, house or deck parts to suffer poisoning or serious
gastrointestinal obstructions.
Many young puppies learn to dig when they are left unsupervised in a grassy area.
Puppies left alone in a fenced yard are more susceptible to being stolen.
Older pups, who are no longer prone to garbage mouth, may be left in a fenced yard
when a responsible person is at home to check on the puppy frequently.
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Outdoor Confinement/Housing
2-4 EQUIPMENT (and how to use it)

Training aids
5-6 ft. leather leash (5/8 wide) - provided by Guide Dogs for the Blind with the first
puppy raised. This leash should be kept by the raiser for subsequent puppies.
4 ft. nylon line to be used as a puppy leash and later as a short dragline - provided by
Guide Dogs for the Blind
Cable tie-down (length: 30 inches) - provided by Guide Dogs for the Blind with the
first puppy raised. This tie-down should be kept by the raiser for subsequent
puppies.
General supplies
Stainless steel food & water dishes, 2 qt. size should be adequate
Large size travel crate (24" wide x 36" long x 26" high)
This size will accommodate most of our adult dogs.
Enzyme cleaner (Nature's Miracle is highly recommended)
A good enzyme cleaner removes urine smell and reduces the chance that the
puppy will relieve in the same area again.
A first aid kit (see suggested supply list in previous section 2-2 Creating a safe,
secure environment)
Grooming supplies
Baby wipes to clean the outside of ears (alcohol-free, non-scented)

Ear cleaner - provided by Guide Dogs for the Blind
Either a soft slicker brush or a rubber curry brush and a comb (The type of brush will
depend on the breed of dog you will be receiving. Talk to your leader.)
Toenail clippers (See your leader for a recommendation about what type and for
instructions on how to cut nails.)
Styptic powder (to control bleeding if toenail quick is cut)
Toothbrush and toothpaste (Use only special toothpaste made for dogs. Human
toothpaste can make your puppy sick) provided by Guide Dogs for the Blind
Toys (See the "Puppy toy and play policy," in the Policies, forms and resources section)
Using the equipment
There are many training tools that will prove instrumental in helping you control and
train your puppy. First, we will introduce you to the crate, the ex-pen, the tie-down, the
leash, the collar and the dragline.
The crate
A crate is not a cage. A puppy can be taught to regard a crate as his den where he has
security. It should be large enough for a puppy to stand up, lie down and turn around in
it, but small enough so a puppy does not feel comfortable in soiling it. It should be kept
clean and dry. Approved toys such as Nylabones can be placed in the crate with a very
young puppy. A crate is an excellent aid in teaching proper home behaviors, containing
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the puppy when you cannot watch him; however no dog or puppy should be contained
for prolonged periods (no more than four hours at a time).
Absorbent bedding such as newspapers or blankets should not be placed in the crate
with young puppies.
Young puppies are bedded on shredded newspapers in the whelping and weaning
kennels at Guide Dogs for the Blind. They may therefore, consider absorbent
bedding as an appropriate surface for relieving, and this may cause them to begin
relieving in their crates.
The young puppy also may get into the habit of chewing on cloth or other
materials left in the crate because a puppy is usually put into the crate when you
are not available to supervise his actions. Ingesting bedding can cause intestinal
blockage.
The ex-pen
An ex-pen (exercise pen) is a portable pen that consists of wire panels that are connected
together. When not in use it can be folded up and readily stored. When set up it can be
formed into a circle or a square. Ex-pens come in 24, 30, 36, and 48-inch heights. Their
internal diameters are generally 4 feet.
Any pup over 25 pounds should not be confined in a pen without explicit approval from
your CFR, and the minimum height of the pen should be 36 inches. The correct size to
use would depend on the age and size of the dog. Baby pups need to be in at least the 30
inch and especially vigorous pups might need a full 48-inch sized pen to discourage
them from climbing. It is generally recommended that, if you will be using an ex-pen to
confine your pup for brief times, you purchase the tops that can be fastened to the pen.
This firms up the pen but does only allow one dimension (48 x 48).
Ex-pens should be used in the same fashion as a tie-down in a supervised situation
only.
Ex-pens are useful to close off an area of the house (for instance, the kitchen) or for
making a large area smaller. This can give a dog success when it is being given more
freedom and the raiser is with the dog.
Ex-pens should not be used in place of a run or a securely fenced yard, as
unsupervised puppies can get hurt by getting caught in the opening or between bars.
Ex-pens can also topple or collapse. To use the ex-pen correctly, it should be secured
to a wall by bungee cords or straps attached to eyebolts.
An ex-pen is also an excellent tool for teaching recalls and for practicing recalls with
puppies that like to play keep away. If you are having difficulties with recalling your
puppy or you would like to expand your ability to confine your puppy, please contact
your leader about using an ex-pen.
The tie-down
The tie-down is used to teach the puppy to calmly accept remaining in one place. It can
be especially helpful in the following situations:
Supervising young puppies
Housebreaking and teaching a puppy to relieve on command
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Meal preparation time

Quiet time
When guests are visiting
Guidelines for tie-downs
Tie-downs are short, durable cables with clips on each end - one for the pup's collar,
one for a ring in the wall. They should be at least 30 inches in length, long enough to
permit movement. Your puppy should be able to stand and turn around comfortably.
Tie-downs should be short enough to prevent tangling or the puppy's ability to walk
to the end to relieve himself.
Do not use chewable objects (such as your leash!) for tie-downs.
NEVER leave your puppy unattended on a tie-down.
Teaching the puppy to relax on a tie-down is essential. Many puppies do not initially
accept remaining in one place, but once they learn to relax, acceptance comes very
quickly. To teach your puppy to quietly accept the tie-down, use the following
procedure:
Select a safe, visible spot to attach the tie-down
Remember that puppies can be strong, so make sure that you find something steadier
than a chair. A chair may fall over on your puppy when he pulls on it.
Good places for fastening a tie-down are into the studs in a wall, to a couch, a heavy
table or bed.
Put the tie-down in an area where the puppy can be observed 100 percent of the time.
Ideally you should have secure places to attach a tie-down in several areas of your
house.
Calmly introduce your puppy to the tie-down
Once you have the tie-down secured, quietly bring your puppy and a chew toy to the
area.
Remain positive and calm as you attach the tie-down.
Before you leave the puppy, it is important that he realize that he is on a line.
Lightly hold the tie-down and slowly move away from him as you release your hold.
Rushing away from him will make him want to rush toward you, causing a jolt against
the tie-down.
Once you move away from the puppy, he will realize that he cannot join you.
Remain calm if your puppy begins to struggle, cry or scream. He is not being hurt; he
is just not used to being restrained.
Ignore the puppy until he stops struggling and crying.
Do not talk to the puppy or it will make him more anxious.
Do not provide any type of attention. Simply ignore him until he is quiet and relaxed
unless he is in danger (paw caught, etc.).
Return to the puppy and provide praise 30 seconds after he is quiet. Some puppies
relax in a matter of seconds while others seem to take forever.
Be patient as your puppy is learning to accept the tie-down
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Leave the puppy on the tie-down for only very short periods at first (start with just
getting the puppy to relax at first - as little as three to five minutes - then slowly
increase the time).
The puppy that will not relax needs your patience. You must wait until he is quiet and
relaxed even if it takes many minutes.
The puppy that is released when he is struggling or screaming learns that struggling
and screaming will get him released. The next time he is on a tie-down he will struggle
harder and cry louder because that is what worked last time. You have, in effect,
trained him to resist the tie-down.
When the puppy does relax, provide only light praise and support, rather than excited
praise and coddling. Excited praise and coddling may cause the puppy to become
anxious and begin the struggling and crying all over again.
With some puppies, you may be able to mark your success only by timing how long it
takes before the puppy relaxes. At first it may seem that the tie-down training is not
working, but if the time decreases (even if it is only by a few seconds), you are making
progress. Should your puppy continue to strongly fight the tie-down after several days,
contact your leader.
The dragline
A dragline is a long, strong cord or cable that is attached to your puppy's collar as he is
allowed to explore the house. A dragline should always be used on your puppy flat collar,
and not with a headcollar. You can use your puppy's nylon lead at first but later you will
need a longer line. If the puppy is running or moving quickly, first step on the leash to
avoid a rope burn, then pick up the dragline and correct. A nylon cord with a snap on
one end and a loop on the other may also work well. The dragline should be light
enough that the puppy can forget he is wearing it. The dragline allows you to correct
your puppy from a distance when he starts to get into trouble.
Use of the dragline
Do not let your puppy wear a dragline unless you are supervising him every
second. Puppies can get hung up and strangled in a moment.
At first, do not drop the dragline on the ground. Instead, hold on to the end of it and
quietly follow him through the house as he explores. Remember to keep the line
loose!
If the puppy displays any incorrect behaviors, quietly and quickly correct him from
the end of the dragline.
Do not say "no" or use other verbal corrections.
Do not telegraph that the correction came from you.
Later, when he shows that he is starting to understand some of the basic rules (not
chewing on the carpet or couch, staying out of the trash, etc.), drop the line and let
him drag it around.
When you first place the dragline on the ground, do not come to the puppy's rescue if
he struggles, cries, acts confused or hesitant, doesn't want to walk or becomes
tangled (as long as he can't hurt himself). Instead, act neutral and ignore him.
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After he relaxes about the dragline, if a correction becomes necessary, pick the
dragline up and administer a normal leash and collar correction (leash and collar
corrections are described in the following section).
Praise the puppy as soon as he stops the inappropriate behavior.
For slightly older puppies that may already have learned some inappropriate behaviors,
6'- 8' of plastic coated steel line is very effective as a dragline because it is stiff and
doesn't catch as readily on furniture.
The leash and collar

Guide Dog volunteers at the California facility first introduced your puppy to walking on
a leash. Now your puppy needs to learn how to respond to his leash in a new setting your home and neighborhood.
Introducing your puppy to the leash
Start soon after you get the puppy. At first, let the puppy lead you.
Stop any attempts to pull by using small pop-and-release corrections with the leash as
he leads you around.
As you follow the puppy around, get the puppy's attention by sweetly talking to him
and walking close to him. Little light touches on his body as you talk in an animated
tone will encourage him to be interested in you and what you are doing.
Once you have his attention, walk a few steps at his side as you continue to use your
voice and little touches to keep his interest in you.
Encourage him to follow you by moving away from him at an angle.
Remember to continue to use your voice and touches to keep his attention focused on
you.
Praise him as he follows you.
Do not scold him for not following you.
If he resists following you:
Step in another direction.

In an excited tone, encourage him to follow you.
Bend over to his level and use your face to stimulate him to move toward you and
follow you. Remember also to verbally encourage him.
Lightly clap your hands as you coax with your voice.
Use encouraging body language or movements such as wiggles or skips while you
verbally encourage.
Lightly tap the ground in front of him with your hand as you encourage him with your
voice or use little light touches on his body to encourage him to move toward you.
As he begins to get the idea that he is supposed to follow you, work to increase the
distance he will follow.
Praise him when he follows you and leash and collar correct for any attempts to pull.
Repeat and continue to praise. Keep the exercise fun for the puppy.
Leash and collar corrections
Now that the puppy is getting used to the leash, let's introduce you to the effective use of
it before he decides he can drag you down the street. This information is only to get you
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started. The proper use of a collar and leash will be detailed more in individual exercises.
Use leash and collar corrections for pulling as soon as your puppy will walk on a leash.
When he attempts to pull, use the following correction:
Slide your hand(s) down the leash closer to the collar.

Keep the leash loose between your hand and the collar.
Time your correction to occur as the puppy starts to pull, but the leash is still slack.
Use a snapping or popping motion with the leash while the leash is still slack. An
effective correction will snap or pop and then immediately release.
Do not give a verbal correction.
Give only one correction at a time.
Try to give the necessary correction the first time.
If the puppy doesn't stop trying to pull, correct again with stronger snap.
Strengthen each correction until you have the puppy's attention and he stops trying
to pull.
IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO PRAISE ANY TIME THE PUPPY TURNS HIS ATTENTION TO
YOU AND STOPS PULLING.
INCORRECT collar and leash techniques are:
A TIGHT LEASH - this leads to constant pressure or pulling

Dragging the puppy or allowing it to drag you
Light, repetitive and ill-timed yanks
Improperly timed snaps
Hitting the puppy with the leash
Yanking on the leash without watching the puppys reaction
Giving effective corrections is an art. If your dog is not responding to your corrections,
practice correctly using the pop-and-release technique without the puppy, i.e. hook the
leash to a chain link fence and practice your technique on the fence. It's also important
to remember to praise effectively. Your puppy will never respond appropriately to leash
and collar corrections if you are not praising him for correctly traveling on a loose leash.
The procedure is not easily described in writing. If you are having trouble understanding
or it does not seem to be working, contact your leader for assistance and additional
demonstrations.
Other training equipment
There are two other pieces of training equipment approved by Guide Dogs: headcollars
and the chain training collar. Both of these types of equipment may be used only on the
recommendation and direction of your leader in consultation with your CFR. Do not
purchase and use them on your own initiative.
The headcollar
A headcollar is a piece of training equipment that fits on a dogs head and muzzle.
'Headcollar' is a generic term for this type of equipment and there are two brand names
of products that Guide Dogs for the Blind routinely uses - the Halti and the Gentle
Leader. It is appropriate to call either of these pieces of equipment by the generic term,
'headcollar' or, depending on the brand a puppy is fitted with, it may be called by the
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brand name.
The idea is simple; where the head goes the body will follow. Headcollars are used for
gentle control of a puppy or dog, and should be looked upon as just another 'tool'
available to the raiser. Imagine leading a horse by a collar around its neck, the horse
would simply drag you where it wanted you to go! By having control of the horse's head,
you control his body. The same thing applies for dogs.
All Guide Dogs are introduced and worked in a headcollar at some point prior to being
placed as a working guide. Depending on the needs of the individual dog or handler, it
may be the best equipment for a working guide to use. It is beneficial, but not a
necessity, for puppies to be accustomed to the headcollar before they return for formal
training.
Headcollars are used to teach control and to direct a dogs focus and body; they should
never be used to correct. Who should use a headcollar and at what age should the puppy
be introduced to one? Community Field Representatives, in consultation with leaders,
will make the decision as to whether a puppy would benefit from a headcollar. They will
give direction as to when and where to utilize the headcollar and when to stop using it.
Puppies can be introduced to a headcollar at any age. Even pups as young as 8 or 10
weeks may benefit from this type of equipment.
Fitting a headcollar properly can be challenging. Unless you have a proper fit, you will
not get the best use out of the equipment and the puppy may be uncomfortable. The
Halti and Gentle Leader fit and work slightly differently. This is one of the reasons
why it is important for leaders and CFRs to be the ones that show you how to place the
equipment on the puppy.
Safety first!
Next to proper fit, the use of a 'safety' collar is an important factor when using a
headcollar. A nylon slip collar is used as a backup safety collar with all headcollars.
Sometimes, a clever puppy will learn how to wiggle out of his headcollar, or slip it off
over his nose. The safety collar will enable you to hold onto the pup if this should occur.
The slip collar is not used to correct the dog and the leash should never be attached only
to it. The slip collar should fit very loosely so that pressure on the headcollar will not
cause pressure on the neck. The safety collar, like the headcollar, should never be left on
an unattended dog.
An improperly used headcollar may have many negative effects, including neck injury,
eye irritation from headcollar rubbing, and negative public perception. The headcollar
should never be kept incessantly tight. Puppies should never be lifted off the ground by
the headcollar, dragged by a headcollar or corrected with a snap or pop and release
correction while wearing a headcollar. Raisers must be completely attentive at all times
while handling a dog, even while in a headcollar. Improper use of a headcollar may lead
to its removal by the raisers leader or CFR.
No, my puppy is not wearing a muzzle.
This will be a common phrase the handler of a puppy wearing a headcollar will find
himself or herself saying! While the headcollar does fit over the puppys muzzle, the
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Section 2-4
Equipment
puppy can still open and close its mouth, pant, eat and drink. The general public is
getting used to seeing this type of equipment on dogs, but many people do think it is a
muzzle and will question the handler about the equipment. Guide Dogs produces a card
that explains this and raisers should have some on hand to provide education to the
public.
Introducing the headcollar
After a leader or CFR fits a puppy with his new headcollar, the first few days are spent
getting the pup used to the new equipment. Some puppies take to the new feel right
away and others need a little more time. Let the puppy wear the headcollar around the
house when his mind is on something other than this new sensation. Feed the puppy,
play with it or do puppy-handling exercises. Do not coddle the puppy or baby it; be
matter-of-fact and upbeat and the pup will be more accepting. If the puppy rubs or paws
at his face, give him a pop on his flat collar and/or distract him with some other activity.
Increase the amount of time the puppy spends wearing the collar each day. It should not
take more than a week, at the very most, for a puppy to adjust to the collar and be able
to concentrate on his work again. At this time, you should meet with your leader or CFR
to show you how to attach the leash and use the headcollar correctly. Never leave the
puppy unsupervised with a headcollar on.
When should a puppy wear its headcollar?
Once the raiser has been shown how to use the headcollar the puppy should continue to
wear it every time he is being handled on-leash unless instructed otherwise by a CFR. It
may be recommended that certain family members or handlers use the headcollar on the
puppy more than others. Children handling a puppy in a headcollar should be
supervised by an adult familiar with its application. The CFR may instruct the raiser to
use the headcollar for a specified amount of time or just in certain situations. It is
important that the puppy learn collar response and be controllable without the
headcollar; the ultimate goal is to wean the puppy off the headcollar before it returns for
formal training. The CFR and leader will discuss with you when the puppy should be
evaluated for a change of equipment.
The puppy should never be left unattended in a headcollar or safety collar!
This includes in his crate, in a kennel run or fenced yard or on tie-down. The collars
could get hung up on something and injure the puppy or the puppy may learn how to
remove it or chew it. The headcollar is a piece of training equipment and should be used
for active training. You must remove the headcollar if the puppy is in a situation where
you are not able to see its face and there is a possibility the puppy may be quietly
removing or chewing the equipment. An example of such a situation is under a dark
table in a restaurant. If the puppy can behave in this situation and you cannot directly
supervise it, it would be appropriate to slip the leash onto the flat collar and remove the
headcollar. Remember to re-attach your equipment before leaving the table and walking
through the crowd! If the puppy cannot control itself without the headcollar in this type
of situation, then the puppy is not ready for this type of outing. Good control is
essential for a Guide Dog puppy; by using the appropriate equipment, it will help make
your puppy more successful and your job a lot easier!
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Section 2-4
Equipment
The chain training collar

The chain training collar is commonly and incorrectly called a choke collar. Any handler
who uses a training collar to choke a puppy is using it inhumanely, incorrectly and
ineffectively. To receive permission to use a training collar, you must first receive
personal training and demonstrate to your leader the ability to give an effective
correction with a flat collar, keeping a loose leash. Improper use of a training collar can
callous the puppy's neck or injure the puppy. Only individuals able to correct effectively
should handle a dog that has been issued a training collar.
Guidelines for using headcollars, training collars or other equipment
Never leave a headcollar or training collar on a dog when you are not present;
your puppy could become injured.
Never use any other training equipment without your leader's approval or before you
have received instruction in its use by your leader. Your leader should discuss the use
of any alternate training tools for your puppy with your area CFR before you are
instructed in its use.
Electrical shock collars are forbidden for use on Guide Dog puppies. Reports of
their use will result in the removal of the puppy.
Use of the crate and tie-down:

Crates and tie-downs should not be used to keep the puppy confined for
long periods of time.
They should never be used as forms of punishment.
Puppies on tie-downs should always be supervised.
Leave your puppy in his crate or on tie-down initially only for short periods.
Increase his times of confinement as he develops patience and control of his bodily
functions.
Ignore your puppy if he cries out of loneliness or frustration.
Learn to know the times he needs to "do his business" so that you can relieve him
before confining him.
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Section 2-4
Equipment
2-5 YOUR PUPPYS ARRIVAL

If you are planning to take a vacation, arrange to get your new Guide Dog puppy after
your return. A brand new puppy has enough changes going on in his life without the
added rigors of vacation travel. (see 3-5 Trains, planes and automobiles" in section 3:
Caring for your puppy)
Puppies may be transported to their new homes in a variety of ways,

including:
Flying as air cargo in approved dog transportation carriers.

Traveling in an airplane's passenger section with a Guide Dogs for the Blind escort
(reserved for older, well-controlled pups with the permission of the airlines and the
puppys CFR).
Picked up by raisers at either the California or Oregon campus (generally raisers or
leaders living within four hours of either facility).
Transported by the Puppy Raising Department in our specially equipped puppy truck.
(This truck can carry up to 40 puppies! It has a hands-free cellular phone, a stereo
and air-conditioning. It is well furnished and spacious, making it the "Cadillac" of
Guide Dog transportation.)
Some rules to remember when picking up your puppy:
The more prepared you are, the better. The puppy is in a strange place with strange
people, sights, smells and noises. It's up to you to get it into the friendly environment
of its new home as quickly and efficiently as possible.
Arrive early.
Make sure that the person whose name is listed on the paperwork sent with the
puppy by the Puppy Raising Department is the person picking up the puppy.
Bring proper identification.
The following items are for picking up puppies delivered via air cargo:
Be cooperative with all airline personnel. Remember that they have jobs to do and
policies that they are required to enforce.
Bring puppy waste clean-up materials for the crate.
Bring a vehicle in which to transport the crate.
Realize that your puppy may be frightened. Be sure you are in a secured area before
opening the crate to eliminate the possibility of your puppy bolting beyond your
control.
Return the crate to Guide Dogs by following the instructions listed on the crate. UPS
will pick it up at your home within two weeks. Be sure to let the Puppy Raising
Department know immediately the address where the empty crate is to be picked up.
If you have any problems with the pick-up, call our office at (800) 295-4050.
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Your Puppys Arrival
Keep These Phone Numbers Handy:

Your leader's phone number for any questions or problems you may
have.
Your CFR's phone number in case you cannot reach your leader.
A good veterinarian's phone number whom you have lined up in the event of an
emergency.
The phone number for the nearest 24-hour emergency veterinary clinic.
Please license your Guide Dog puppy with your county:
In most areas, a county dog license is required. Some counties provide them free of
charge or charge a reduced fee for Guide Dog puppies. Others ask for a full fee. Please
check with your leader and/or your county animal control office to determine your
county's procedure and fees.
Prepare your home
Never allow the puppy to chew on anything other than Guide Dog-approved toys.
Many non-approved toys and chewies can be ingested and may cause intestinal
blockages.
Remove from reach anything that the puppy could quickly pick up that could go
unnoticed by you: children's small toys, pens, and pencils, etc.
Move all wiring and electrical cords out of the puppy's reach so that they are
inaccessible and place all medicines and cleaning supplies in a latched cabinet.
Check the garage for items that the puppy could easily ingest, including screws, nails,
antifreeze, rat poison, fertilizer, bags of cement mix etc. Antifreeze is one of the most
dangerous of all poisons. Just 1/4 of a teaspoon will kill most mature animals (that's
just one lick!!!). Some manufacturers make antifreeze that is safer for pets, but be
cautious of all.
Keep the puppy out of the kitchen when you are cooking to avoid burn injuries.
Set up a portable baby gate in the doorway of any room as an easy way to prevent the
puppy from exploring other areas of the house where he can't be supervised.
Show the puppy all the sliding glass doors so he knows that they are there and
doesn't walk into them. Consider putting a bright sticker on the sliding glass door (be
sure to place it at puppy height so the puppy can see it).
Near your bed, set up a crate in which your puppy will sleep. This will prevent him
from relieving in the house during the middle of the night. Most puppies will wake
you when they need to go out.
Minimize your puppy's exposure to other people and animals for the first few
days.
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Your Puppys Arrival
Supervising your puppy, keeping him safely secured
Don't leave your puppy loose and unattended. If you cannot watch the puppy (even
for a moment), put him in a safe area such as a crate or a dog run.
Never allow your puppy to run loose and unsupervised with other dogs - your pup
could be injured! Accidents can occur when puppies and dogs are running and
playing in the backyard. Many internal injuries and broken bones (generally from
excessively rough play) have been reported to us in the past that could have been
prevented with adequate supervision.
Never allow the puppy outside of a fenced yard without a leash and always have a
leash on the puppy when you open a door that leads to an unfenced area.
When the doorbell rings, do not open the door until you have secured the puppy in a
crate or have put a leash on him.
Young children should always be supervised around your puppy.
When you are grooming your pup, check the fit and condition of his collar. Should
you find a problem with the collar, contact your leader immediately. Secure your pup
by attaching a temporary collar with the puppy's Guide Dog I.D. until you receive a
new collar from Guide Dogs. If it's not possible to remove the I.D. from the old collar,
have the puppy continue to wear it along with the temporary collar until you receive a
replacement Guide Dog collar.
Never leave your puppy unattended when attached to a tie-down.
Do not wrap the leash around your hand or loop it over your body or shoulder when
you are going out for a walk. It could be difficult to free yourself in the event of an
emergency.
Your pup should never ride in the back of an open pickup truck loose or tied (see 3-5
Trains, planes and automobiles in the section 3: Caring for your puppy)
If you leave your Guide Dog puppy with anyone, make sure the person is experienced
in Guide Dog puppy care. You may only leave your puppy with people trained in
Guide Dog puppy training techniques or those who have been approved by puppy
raising leaders.
On the trip home

If your pup has just arrived by plane or via the puppy truck, put his leash on him as
quickly as possible and let him relieve. Select an area that has not been used by other
dogs but is considered an acceptable spot for dogs to use.
Praise him if he relieves.
Clean up after him immediately.
Offer him a drink of water.
Return him to his crate or place him on a passengers lap for the ride home.
Do not hold him if you are driving.
Do not let him roam your car freely.
Remember not to have him on a front passengers lap or the front floorboard if you
have a passenger-side airbag in your car.
Ignore his cries. Praise him when he is quiet.
Gently correct him with a quick tug on his collar if he struggles or mouths the person
holding him.
Hold him calmly and stroke him slowly after correcting him.
Praise him when he is calm.
Section 2-5
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Your Puppys Arrival
At your home
Your new puppy has arrived! While you may be tempted to show him off, understand
that your pup needs time to adjust to his new surroundings. Arrange some quiet time.
Instead of inviting a crowd of people to welcome him to his new home, wait a few days
and then allow only one or two visitors at a time.
Begin teaching your puppy your expectations immediately. Do not let him do
anything now that will be unacceptable later, including mouthing, barking,
jumping, inappropriate relieving, getting on furniture, etc.
ADMINISTER ANY MEDICATIONS THAT MAY HAVE ARRIVED WITH YOUR PUPPY. If
you have any questions, contact your leader.
Carry him to the spot where you want him to regularly relieve upon his arrival and
follow the relieving procedure outlined in "3-2 Relieving" in section 3: Caring for your
puppy.
Offer your puppy a drink of water and some puppy food if it is time for a feeding. If
he eats, make sure to relieve him again.
Put your puppy on-leash and let him explore the house while you follow and
supervise him. You may want to restrict him to non-carpeted areas initially.
Introduce your puppy slowly to other human family members.
Allow him to meet other pets slowly, carefully and one at a time.
Put the family pet dogs on leash and with the puppy also on a leash, slowly allow
them to approach one another. It is easiest to make these introductions outside in the
yard.
Do not allow pet dogs and the puppy to be close enough to grab, mouth or bite each
other.
Keep the leashes loose and praise the family pet dogs for friendly behavior.
Teach family pet dogs to behave gently by giving them a leash and collar correction
when they behave roughly.
Delay introducing the puppy to pet cats until the next day if possible. Many cats
adjust better when allowed to get used to the scent of the new puppy, rather than
through forced introductions. Never attempt to restrain a cat while introducing a
puppy.
Give the puppy some space. Too much attention and activity from people or other
pets can overwhelm him.
Begin the instructions contained in "3-2 Relieving" in section 3: Caring for your
puppy.
Place the puppy in his crate or kennel if he cannot be supervised.
Take the puppy out frequently to relieve.
Offer the puppy food and water regularly, according to his feeding schedule.
The first evening
Gently play with your puppy or do puppy-handling exercises prior to putting him to bed
in his crate or kennel. See section 6: Training techniques.
Section 2-5
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Your Puppys Arrival
Have the puppy sit calmly while you handle feet, head, ears, mouth, eyes.
Perform the lay-over technique described in 6-3 Commands in section 6: Training
techniques.
Make sure to do the exercises very calmly and quietly. This will help tire the puppy.
Give the puppy one final opportunity to relieve for the evening and remember to
praise his success.
Make sure the puppy is calm before you put him to bed.
Give the puppy a Nylabone in his crate to chew on for comfort.
Preferably, crate him in your bedroom at night.
Do not pamper the puppy if he cries or reward his crying by responding to it
frequently.
Take the puppy out to his spot to relieve if he wakes crying during the night. Praise
him when he relieves; take him back to bed.
Repeat the above as necessary, but make sure that you are not just giving in to the
puppy's crying.
The next day...
Take the puppy out to relieve the very first moment he awakens in the morning. Carry
him outside this first morning or two before he has learned not to relieve in the house.
Remember to follow the Relieving procedure (see section 3: Caring for your puppy).
Bring the puppy back in the house for his breakfast and some water.
Take him out to relieve again immediately following his meal. Praise his success.
Constant supervision of the puppy throughout the day is necessary. Put him in
his kennel or crate when you need a break.
Begin his tie-down training.
Leave the puppy's collar on at all times.

Don't leave him on tie-down unattended.
Never take him out of the safe, secure yard off-leash.
Do not overwhelm him with too many new experiences.
Use precaution against loss or injury.
Offer food and water regularly.
Give the puppy plenty of relieving breaks, praising his successes every time.
Supply plenty of love.
Call your leader if you have any questions or problems.
You can begin shaping your puppy's behavior right away. Young puppies are constantly
learning, whether you are actively teaching them or not. The best time to mold their
behavior is from 8 to 20 weeks of age. Older puppies still learn, but at 8 weeks, you are
starting with a fresh slate. While we will be going over some of the techniques listed
below in detail further on in this manual, you can ask your leader for assistance.
Start immediately:
Leash relieving (especially on a variety of surfaces) - See section 3: Caring for your
puppy
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Your Puppys Arrival
House manners (do not allow chewing, mouthing, food stealing, etc.) - See "6-1
Important behaviors" in section 6: Training techniques.
Teach your puppy his name and that commands mean something.
Do not add commands to the puppy handling exercises until the puppy easily
accepts the handling exercises. - See "6-3 Commands" in section 6: Training
techniques.
Teach your puppy to calmly walk up and down stairs - See "6-1 Important behaviors"
in section 6: Training techniques
Socialization, traffic and self-control procedures - See "6-1 Important behaviors" in
section 6: Training techniques
Work daily on:
Puppy handling exercises

Have the puppy sit calmly while you handle feet, head, ears, mouth, eyes
Lay-over (described in 6-3 Commands in 6: Training techniques)
Come command
Start by calling your puppy back and forth between two people.
Go slowly and allow the puppy to receive calm praise from each person.
Take hold of the collar every time the puppy comes to you.
Never allow the puppy to refuse to come, even if it means walking him down and
gently bringing him back to the spot where you were standing when you called
him.
Never repeat the Come command.
Always praise the puppy for coming on command
For more information, see 6-3 Commands in section 6: Training techniques
Leash responsiveness
Walking on a loose leash (without pulling!)

Refraining from mouthing the leash, shoes or clothing
Refraining from being a garbage-mouth (picking up sticks, leaves, etc.) while walking
If a puppy is prone to being a garbage-mouth and must be left outside in a kennel,
it is a good idea to put down a concrete floor. Placing large concrete squares or
heavy horse-stall rubber mats side-by-side in the kennel may be used to create
temporary flooring. Do not leave your puppy in a kennel with flooring he can dig.
Provide close supervision of your pup.

If you are unable to closely supervise the puppy, even for a short time, place
the puppy in a crate or other puppy-proofed place (ex-pen or safe outdoor
run).
When puppies are young, use the nylon leash provided as a dragline. (See "2-4 Equipment
(and how to use it)," earlier in this section). Use the dragline only when you can
supervise your puppy.
Section 2-5
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Your Puppys Arrival
2-6 WHAT IT MEANS TO RAISE A GUIDE DOG PUPPY

When you are playing with your Guide Dog puppy or teaching him the behaviors and
training exercises outlined in this manual, remember that Guide Dog puppies are
different from regular pet dogs. Guide Dogs are special partners for people with special
needs. For this reason they must be taught differently than other dogs. While raising
your puppy, think about how his actions will affect his future partner.
A Guide Dog must:
Be comfortable around all types of people (strangers and friends) and not be
distracted by them when at work.
Resist temptations of food on floors, tables and when offered by people.
Ignore dogs and all other types of animals distracting and approaching him while he
is working.
Concentrate on his work when in heavy traffic situations, crowds of people, near
children playing, or people playing games with other people or their pets.
Work in busy city areas as well as in quiet country areas.
Travel on all types of transportation: buses, cars, trains, planes, subways, etc.
Work amid a variety of everyday noises.
Behave in every public situation.
Remain calm during applause or cheering crowds.
Negotiate all types of stairs, surfaces and elevators with confidence and caution
Be a healthy eater of a nationally obtainable dog food which will maintain his proper
body weight, coat and orthopedic health without exceptional supplements and care.
Have good house manners:
be house trained and relieve only on command
be calm in the house
come when called
not be destructive when left alone
not pick up or chew others possessions
not beg for or steal food
refrain from charging through doors
Have good street manners:
walk calmly on leash
obey the commands to stop, sit, lie down and stay
be comfortable with all people, noises, smells, vehicles and settings
ignore distractions
not chase cats or other small animals
not behave aggressively toward or be distracted by other dogs
not be distracted by food on the ground or in people's hands
Have good manners in public buildings:
know how to lie down and stay in one place quietly
be calm in all settings
ignore food in restaurants
wait calmly for long periods of time
relieve on-leash and on command in many different settings and on many
different surfaces
Have good manners when traveling:
Section 2-6
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What It Means
travel calmly in many different types of cars or vehicles

not whine, bark, drool, fidget or pace while being transported
In order to provide the foundation for training in guidework, a Guide Dog

puppy needs to learn how to:
Interact with humans and have a desire to please them and thrive on their praise and
affection.
Ignore all types of distractions in which a dog would normally show interest.
Behave properly at any time, even in situations that encourage distraction and play.
Be comfortable in as many different environments as possible, including busy cities
and rural areas.
Remain calm and comfortable while being groomed or handled.
Avoid any physical behavior that would be harmful to a blind handler, such as
jumping or getting underfoot.
Be relaxed and obedient when traveling on all types of transportation.
Be friendly and relaxed around other animals without seeking their company and
attention.
Be friendly and relaxed around all types of people.
Negotiate all types of stairs, surfaces and elevators calmly and with confidence.
Guide Dog puppies need to be raised differently than pet dogs
Hand feeding teaches begging.

Feeding people food teaches food stealing.
Allowing him to root through garbage cans teaches food stealing.
Playing fetch promotes chasing balls, other objects and other animals.
Teaching to retrieve also promotes the picking up, carrying and moving of human
possessions.
Not supervising play with other dogs may teach dog obsession and sometimes
submission or aggression.
Allowing barking at strangers or new experiences may teach unacceptable fear or
aggression.
Allowing barking when excited may teach unacceptable behavior.
Allowing to race through the house may teach dangerous, accident-causing behavior.
Guide Dog puppies are different, but they still have fun. They really enjoy getting to go
places with you such as church, the grocery store, museums and other destinations.
Other activities like riding a bus or attending baseball and football games are fun for a
Guide Dog puppy. Puppies can also enjoy interactive play, tug-of-war and hide-and-seek.
The reward for teaching your puppy how to have fun in the Guide Dog way is seeing him
grow to become a responsible dog that willingly and happily helps his new partner. His
reward is becoming the partner of someone who will love him dearly and take him
everywhere.
Section 2-6
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What It Means
2-7 DOS AND DONTS OF PUPPY RAISING

DO
Supervise at all times when out, using every opportunity to teach.

Keep fresh water available at all times.
Keep your yard free of all dog waste.
Clean your puppy's crate or sleeping area at least twice a week.
Practice leash relieving regularly and on different surfaces.
Take your puppy for frequent car rides to visit different places and other people's
homes.
Allow other people to pet your puppy.
Take your puppy for frequent walks.
Allow your puppy to interact with other pets, but always supervise them closely to
prevent injury or development of inappropriate behaviors.
Allow your puppy to run and get lots of exercise but only in a safely enclosed area.
Give your puppy baths when he is unusually dirty. Daily brushing keeps puppies clean.
Develop a structured socialization and stimulation plan to gradually expose your puppy
to new places, people, surfaces and noises.
Practice calmly walking up and down different stairs on a regular basis.
Confine your puppy on a tie-down under your supervision for at least 15 minutes a day.
Call your leader if you have any questions about the management of your puppy.
Call your leader and discuss any questions you may have about your puppy's health
before taking your puppy to the vet. IN THE EVENT OF AN EMERGENCY, CALL THE VET
FIRST AND THEN TELL YOUR LEADER ABOUT THE PROBLEM.
DO NOT
Hit or shout at your puppy.

Leave a training collar or headcollar on your puppy when he is in a crate or kennel, or
unsupervised in any way.
Allow your puppy to chase cars or bikes.
Allow your puppy to chase, injure or roughhouse with cats, other dogs, small creatures
or livestock.
Leave your puppy alone with other dogs in your house, yard, or kennel.
Confine your puppy for long periods of time (no more than four hours at a time) during
the day.
Allow your puppy to mouth, chew or bite on people.
Allow your puppy to play with or chew on anything other than Guide Dog approved toys.
Leave your puppy unsupervised outdoors unless he is confined in a safe, secure kennel.
Permit your puppy to run loose off leash in unfenced areas.
Call your puppy to you in order to correct him.
Allow your puppy to bark or whine while crated, on tie-down or in public.
Leave your puppy unattended on tie-down.
Use any flea or tick control product that has not been approved by your veterinarian.
Give your puppy any medication that has not been prescribed by your veterinarian.
Leave your puppy (crated, tied or loose) unattended in a vehicle.
Teach your puppy to retrieve or play any sort of retrieve or chase games.
Permit other people to play rough games with your Guide Dog puppy.
Section 2-7
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Dos and Donts
2-8 PUPPY RAISING ETIQUETTE

All puppies and especially Guide Dog puppies need to be taught manners. As a Guide
Dog, he will live with his partner 24 hours a day, so he needs to learn acceptable manners
early. The following guidelines have been established to help you to develop your puppy
into a pleasant, easy-to-live-with companion:
Never permit your puppy on the furniture.

Never permit the puppy to get into the trash or to nose around food that does not
belong to him.
Do not feed your puppy from the table or permit him to eat while you are eating or
preparing food.
Do not permit your puppy to eat anything unless it is put into his bowl.
Never permit your puppy to steal food from the table or to accept food from
someone's hand.
Never permit your puppy to jump up on or mouth people.
Never permit your puppy to rush out of doors or exit vehicles without your
permission.
Never permit your puppy to lunge at or drag you toward dogs or other animals.
Never encourage your puppy to act aggressively.
Do not permit your puppy to be protective of his food or toys. Use the recommended
techniques in "3-1 Feeding" in section 3: Caring for your puppy.
Public etiquette
When you begin taking your puppy to public places, please do not forget common
courtesies and etiquette. When you and your puppy are in public, you are representing
not only yourself, but also your local club, Guide Dogs for the Blind, and people who use
our dogs as guides. Raiser and/or puppy social "mistakes" can affect the public's view of
guide dogs in general, as well as Guide Dogs for the Blind.
The public's negative perception of you and your Guide Dog puppy possibly could lead to
restrictions of access, not only for you, but also for other puppy raisers and even for
people with visual impairments who use guides.
Puppy etiquette
Please relieve your puppy in appropriate areas, not on other people's property.
If your puppy does have an accident, please clean it up. Always carry a clean-up kit
with you.
Remove your puppy from the setting if he becomes so excited that you cannot control
him.
Select your socialization sites carefully to ensure that they are places you will be able
to control your puppy.
Have a clean and well-groomed puppy.
Regularly wash your puppy jacket to keep it clean. If your jacket becomes tattered,
contact your leader so it can be replaced.
2/2003
Section 2-8
Etiquette
People etiquette
As a puppy raiser, you are representing Guide Dogs when you take your puppy in
public. You should show pride in your work by dressing in an appropriate manner
when out and about with your Guide Dog puppy.
Puppy raising can improve your public speaking skills because many people will be
interested in meeting your puppy and hearing about the important work you're doing.
Be prepared to answer questions about your puppy and about Guide Dogs.
Always ask first before entering public buildings. Take your puppy only where he is
willingly welcomed, regardless of any state or local laws that may technically grant
him access. Guide Dogs rules of access only allow raisers and puppies to go where
they are happily welcomed.
Do not try to force or argue your way into a business or public facility that questions
or refuses your puppy's access. Thank the people for their time and quietly leave.
Thank all businesses that allow you and your puppy to visit them. Their kindness
provides a place for our puppies to become socialized. They are helping us achieve
our mission. Express your (and our) appreciation by talking to the employees, writing
thank you notes or mentioning your thanks in letters to the editor of your local
newspaper.
2/2003
Section 2-8
Etiquette
3-1 FEEDING
All raisers are required to follow the Nutritional policy (see Policies, forms and
resources) or follow the advice of the CFR or Guide Dogs veterinarian. Remember to give
your puppy access to clean, fresh water at all times. Without enough water, your pup
could become ill. The amount of food you should provide will vary according to your
puppy's growth rate, activity level and other factors (such as climate). Refer to the
Nutritional policy when you first get your puppy to help set guidelines for amounts to
feed your puppy. The instructions on the dog food bag are only general averages. They
must be adjusted to meet your puppy's individual needs. Refer often to the Body
Condition Score sheet to help assess your pups current condition.
As a guideline, raisers will usually start feeding an 8-week-old pups 1 cup, 3 times a
day and then slowly increase the amount of food following instructions given by your
leader.
Pay attention to how fast your puppy is growing and his general activity level. It's
better for his bone development if he grows slowly, but he should not appear
extremely thin.
Realize that puppies do not grow at a continuous rate even though it may seem so.
They can go through several periods when their growth rate slows down for a time.
Assess your pups condition before increasing his food. Dont increase his food based
on his age alone.
It is always better to keep him on the lean side. Excessive weight in puppies can lead
to serious bone, joint and other health problems, as they grow older.
Use a measuring cup (not a can, glass jar or coffee mug) to measure his food.
As he grows, his needs will increase for a while. Adjust the amount of food
accordingly.
As he starts to mature, you will need to decrease his food intake as his growth
tapers off.
If your pup receives notification to be altered (spayed or neutered) his
nutritional needs will decrease after that procedure.
You will know how to modify the amount of food to provide by observing your
puppy's build. Refer to the Body Condition Score sheet to assess his condition.
When your puppy is in Ideal Body Condition:
You will easily be able to feel each individual rib with your fingertips..
His waist will be obvious when viewed from above.
His belly will be well tucked up behind his ribcage when viewed from the side.
Guidelines to promoting good eating habits and protecting health:
Do not allow your puppy to eat whenever he chooses. Keep him on schedule.
Measure your puppy's food using a standard measuring cup.
Feed your puppy away from other family pets to avoid developing potential food
possessiveness issues.
Clean feeding bowls at least once a day.
Add a small amount of water to his kibble before serving it to make it more palatable,
Provide clean, cool water for your puppy to drink when he chooses.
Do not feed nutritional, vitamin or mineral supplements unless recommended by
your CFR or Guide Dog veterinarian.
Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2008 Puppy Raising Manual / 3: Caring for your puppy
11/2008
Section 3-1
Feeding
Poor appetite does not signal a need to change food brands.

Feed the puppy only from his bowl unless you have been instructed otherwise for
various training techniques.
Rapid or continuous changes in the puppy's diet can upset his system.
Pick up any food that the puppy does not eat in 5-10 minutes and don't offer more
food until the next scheduled feeding time.
If you have ongoing concerns about your puppys weight or dietary habits, contact
your leader who will consult with your CFR.
Follow these general guidelines for timing frequency of meals:
8-16-week-old pups: three meals a day

4 months and older: two meals a day
Changing your puppys food

Some possible reasons to change your puppy's food:
Frequent diarrhea
"Spitting up" or other types of vomiting
Excessive gas
Improper weight
Overly rapid growth
Excessive stool volume
When it is appropriate to change food brands:
Remember, lack of appetite is usually not an acceptable reason for changing your
puppy's brand of food.
Do not change foods without first consulting your leader; only your CFR or Guide Dog
veterinarian may make the decision to change a puppys food.
Refer to the Nutrition policy.
If your veterinarian recommends a change, please have him consult with the
veterinary clinic at Guide Dogs.
Slowly change foods to avoid diarrhea that can result from rapid or frequent changes
of food.
Be sure to always accurately measure your puppy's food and don't overfeed!
Tips to remember when feeding your puppy

Remember, no extra treats or dog biscuits:
Your puppys regular diet includes all the nutritional value and calories you puppy
needs. Do not supplement your puppys diet with people food of any kind. Even very
11/2008
Section 3-1
Feeding
small amounts of an unusual or rich food can cause dietary upset and lead to digestive
problems, vomiting and diarrhea.
Teach your puppy not to be possessive of his food by following these steps:
Always feed your puppy separate from other family pets preferably out of sight.
Do not hover over the puppy while he is eating.
Do not allow young children to pester the puppy while eating; it may inadvertently
teach him that he must defend his food.
Do not test your pup by trying to remove the bowl or put a hand in the bowl prior to
the puppy finishing his food. He should be allowed to eat without the concern of
someone taking it away from him.
If your puppy growls at you at any time during the feeding process, immediately
notify your leader.
Please see section 6: Training techniques for additional information.
Healthy puppies should have healthy appetites!
Some symptoms that people attribute to diet actually may be the signs of an infectious
disease or may be symptoms of a gastrointestinal problem caused by eating something
like a sock or a plastic tie off a bread bag. Any such maladies should be treated
immediately. It may not be the food that is causing the problem. NOTIFY YOUR LEADER
IMMEDIATELY IF YOUR PUPPY HAS ANY OF THE SYMPTOMS LISTED BELOW. THEY MAY
BE SIGNS OF ILLNESS. If your pup:
Is underweight
Has diarrhea, vomiting or other symptoms of an upset stomach
Has poor skin or coat
Is a picky eater
Loses his appetite suddenly
Is lethargic
If your puppy eats too fast and either gags or vomits his food back up while
eating, try one of these tips to slow him down:
Add enough water to his food to almost float the dog food.
Add a rock (much larger than your puppy can eat) or large Nylabones or Kongs to the
pan to encourage your puppy to pick up a few pieces of food at a time instead of
gulping it.
Change to a different kind of feed pan such as a large rectangular cake pan or an
"angel food" cake pan that has a hole in the center.
Pointers from the veterinarian

Never feed your dog table scraps. Rich foods can lead to digestive
problems, vomiting and diarrhea. Bones, chocolate, grapes as well as a

numerous of other human foods can be deadly for a dog.
Be sure to measure your dog's food carefully. A mere extra couple of ounces per meal
can add up to two or three pounds of excess fat per month. Never supplement your
dog's diet without the advice of a Guide Dogs veterinarian.
11/2008
Section 3-1
Feeding
Keeping your puppy fit and healthy

Just as you and I need to be conscious of what we eat and keep ourselves fit and healthy,
we need to do the same for our pups. Periodically, your club leader or your CFR will
assess your puppys body condition to see if he is in the desired lean condition.
Your puppys Body Condition Score (see Understanding your Dogs Body Condition on
the next page) is entered on the Project Record and indicates his basic health and
condition.
Your pup should look like a young athlete: lean and healthy. Ideally the puppy should
have a clearly visible waist behind its rib cage and a nice tuck up in the abdomen. You
should be able to feel each individual rib without pressing too hard, not just the barrel of
the rib cage. A puppy that is too thin may have clearly visible ribs and his hip bones may
stick out. Remember: lean not skinny!
Overfeeding results in not only fat puppies but can lead to digestive upsets too. Too
much weight makes the transition to the regimens of training harder. Additionally,
studies shows that obesity in dogs can cause a variety of health problems and shorten
their life. So, dont give in to that cute Im starving look that your puppy gives you!
If you are not sure if your puppy is at an appropriate weight, please have your leader
help you.
11/2008
Section 3-1
Feeding
BO
ON
TI
CONDI
DY
YS
TEM
A D U LT
Feeding to ideal body condition provides real, long-term health benefits, and the chart below should be used to
monitor your dogs body condition. Since every dog is different, modify your feeding amounts as needed to help
your dog reach ideal body condition.
Underfed Dog
Ideal Body Condition
Overfed Dog
Ribs are highly visible. Increase the
Can feel and see outline of ribs.
Dog has no waist when viewed from
amount you are feeding. After 2 or 3
Dog has a waist when viewed from
above. Belly is rounded when viewed
weeks, compare again. Adjust until
above. Belly is tucked up when
from the side. Decrease amount you
dog exhibits ideal body condition.
viewed from the side. Maintain
are feeding. After 2 or 3 weeks,
current feeding regimen.
compare again. Adjust as necessary.
BENEFITS OF MAINTAINING IDEAL BODY CONDITION:

Promotes a leaner, longer, healthier life
Reduces a dogs percentage of body fat for better health
Reduces potential for developing weight-related

health conditions
Helps maintain healthy blood sugar levels

Helps maintain healthy blood pressure and heart rate
The Body Condition System was developed and tested at the Purina Pet Care Center, and has been documented in the following publications: Laflamme, DP. Body Condition Scoring and
Weight Maintenance. Proc N Am Vet Conf Jan 16-21, 1993, Orlando FL, pp 290-291. Laflamme DP, Kealy RD, Schmidt DA. Estimation of Body Fat by Body Condition Score. J Vet Int Med
1994; 8:154. Laflamme DP, Kuhlman G, Lawler DF, Kealy RD, Schmidt DA. Obesity Management in Dogs. J Vet Clin Nutr 1994; 1:59-65.
3-2 RELIEVING
Teach your puppy to relieve on-leash, on command
If your Guide Dog puppy is to be a good companion, he needs to be trained to relieve
himself outside - not in your house. To be a guide, he must also learn to relieve on
command when and where you ask him to. The Do your business command executed
on-leash is a very important lesson for a Guide Dog to learn. In order for a person who is
blind to be able to work effectively with their guide, they must have a dog that will
respond promptly and reliably to the relieving command. Relieving in harness is still a
major reason for career changing dogs in training. The following are a few simple
techniques to teach your puppy good relieving habits:
Use this procedure when relieving your puppy on-leash:
Start by taking the puppy, on-leash, to his relieving area at your home. Young puppies
in a hurry may need, at first, to be carried to the relieving area. The goal is to have
your puppy walk by your side to the relieving area in a controlled manner.
Choose a relieving area that can be used each time you take your puppy outside.
Using a familiar area may help stimulate him to relieve. Choosing a relieving area with
concrete, gravel or asphalt early on can be helpful in teaching your puppy to relieve
on hard surfaces.
Once you are at the relieving area, give the puppy a release command O.K. and cast
the puppy out front of you. Allow the puppy to sniff the ground and circle in front of
you. Encourage him to walk in a circular pattern. You can pivot in the center to
remain facing the pup as he circles. We do not want the puppy ending up relieving on
the handlers left side. Do not follow him to move to fresh ground or attempt to
explore. A six-foot radius around you should be sufficient for the puppy to relieve in.
If the puppy is reluctant to move you may take no more than two steps forward
immediately followed by two steps backwards to encourage him to move; keep him
circling as you do this.
The moment he begins to relieve, say Do your business followed by praise. It is
important, in the beginning, to wait until the puppy is actually urinating or defecating
to say Do your business. This will help him relate what you are saying to what he is
doing. Once he has made the connection, you can modify your timing to teach him to
relieve when he hears the command. It may take several weeks for him to make the
connection.
When he seems to understand the connection between relieving himself and the
command, the next step is to say the command immediately before he starts to
relieve. Do not say the command unless you are certain he is going to relieve.
Once you have done this for several days, try saying the command while he is
circling or showing other signs to indicate that he is preparing to relieve but
hasn't actually started.
Finally, begin saying the command as soon as he reaches the spot that you use for
relieving him.
11/2008
Section 3-2
Relieving
Keep your voice calm and positive throughout. By following this routine your pup will
learn to relieve on-leash and on command.
Leash relieve every time. This allows your puppy to become comfortable with
relieving on leash and gives you the opportunity to praise him for a job well done.
Be in tune with your puppy's needs
Observe the pattern of times he may need to relieve.

First thing in the morning
After playing, eating or napping
More frequently if he is feeling stressed, being exercised, being trained or being
introduced to new situations
Learn to know how long he can wait between trips outside.
Little puppies cannot wait very long, while older puppies can learn to "hold it."
Know when to feed and water the puppy.
Do not load him up with water right before bedtime. TAKE CARE NOT TO LIMIT
HIS WATER TOO SEVERELY BECAUSE IT MAY MAKE YOUR PUPPY SICK.
Always offer him an extra opportunity to relieve after his last meal of the day.
Relieve your puppy just prior to bedtime to help insure his bowels are empty.
Read his body language that signals when he needs to relieve.
Some pups sniff the ground or floor intently or start circling just before relieving.
Other pups may walk differently or suddenly interrupt an activity when they feel
the need to relieve.
He may have a whine or bark which signals he needs to relieve.
Observe if he needs to relieve more than once each time out.
Take him out when he signals, even if it's in the middle of the night.
Try not to get discouraged if he does not relieve every time you take him out or if he
needs to relieve again after he just came in.
It may take him awhile to learn what is expected of him, so be patient when he has an
accident.
Be consistent
Take your young puppy out to relieve every time he asks to go out or
shows behaviors indicating he needs to relieve, every time you think he
might need to relieve, and when he is scheduled to go out after sleeping, playing or
eating.
Teach older pups to learn to hold it and wait for offered opportunity to relieve
Praise him every time he "does his business" as you have asked.
Combine prevention with patterning to teach appropriate relieving habits
Leave your puppy in his crate or in his kennel if you cannot supervise him.
Make sure your crate is not too large when he is small. Most puppies will try not to
soil an area where they are closely confined.
By supervising and watching his body language you can prevent most relieving
accidents when he is not in his crate or kennel. The fewer opportunities he has to
relieve in the house, the easier it will be for him to learn to relieve outside.
11/2008
Section 3-2
Relieving
Use your dragline to gently correct him if you see him start to relieve in the house.
At first, take him outside on his leash to the same spot every time and say Do your
business, as he starts relieving.
Praise him with your voice only as he relieves.
Wait for a while before taking him back into the house if you think he may need to
relieve again.
If he does relieve again, repeat the Do your business command as he relieves and
then praise.
After your puppy relieves is often a good time to play tug with your puppy or let him
romp in the yard supervised, of course!
Walk him back into the house.
Confine or supervise.
Correct GENTLY and APPROPRIATELY if your puppy relieves in the house
Gently leash and collar correct the puppy every time you catch him relieving in the
house at the instant he begins to relieve not after the fact. Watch him so you can be
consistent.
If you see it starting to happen (you are supervising him, of course, and you've got
his dragline fastened to his collar), quietly and gently, give him a collar correction
and take him out quickly to finish relieving.
Remember NEVER correct your puppy for relieving in the house if you didn't see him
do it. Only correct him if you catch him in the act of relieving in the house.
Do not scold or hit him. Dont rub his nose in his accident or give him a verbal
correction.
Remember to say Do your business if he starts to finish relieving outside.
Praise him as he completes his business outside.
Clean the soiled area promptly if an accident occurs
If your puppy relieves in the house, clean the area immediately and thoroughly. Dogs
have a keen sense of smell. They may be drawn back to the spot by their own scent.
Most grocery, feed stores and pet supply stores have effective cleaning solutions
developed to deodorize and prevent staining caused by puppy "accidents."
Teach your puppy not to relieve indiscriminately
As well as learning to relieve on command, your puppy also needs to learn not to relieve
indiscriminately when he is on leash. Teaching this concept is important because guide
dogs must control their relieving while working.
Many otherwise successful guide dogs have been retired for indiscriminate relieving.
You start the process of teaching your puppy not to relieve indiscriminately when you
begin teaching your puppy to only relieve in the designated relieving spot. Focusing on
teaching him to relieve when and where offered prevents the habit of indiscriminate
relieving.
Teaching a puppy to refrain from relieving indiscriminately must be dealt with carefully
to avoid creating negative patterns that may be difficult to change. It is particularly
important that you do not allow your puppy to have an accident while he is on leash
without being commanded to do so; instead provide positive successful opportunities to
11/2008
Section 3-2
Relieving
relieve in the designated relieving spot. This will pattern the proper behaviors and build
the correct relieving habits.
While your puppy is being housebroken, he is learning not to relieve indiscriminately
when he is on leash. You begin teaching this concept in two ways. The first way is for
you to give clear cues to your pup about when and where it is appropriate to relieve:
Walk him in the lets go position to the relieving area.

When you reach the designated relieving area stop and give him the release command
O.K. and cast him out in front of you encouraging him to move in a circular pattern.
Give the command Do your business as he circles.
Praise him for a job well done!
Using this step by step process each time you relieve him will give him a clear indication
of what you want him to do.
The second way you teach this concept is by making sure that you prevent as many
accidents as possible by setting your puppy up for success when you take him on an
outing or a neighborhood walk.
Avoid inappropriate relieving accidents:
Plan appropriate socializations based on your puppys age. Do not take a puppy on an
outing of a duration that necessitates relieving. Plan your outings so that the puppy
can return home to relieve.
Ideally the puppy should only be relieved at home, on leash, in the same spot
according to its regular biological schedule. For those puppies that have to
accompany the raiser to work, they should have one designated relieving area and be
taken to that area only to relieve during the workday.
Always fully relieve your puppy before you go for a walk or taking your puppy out to
socialize. Never take a loaded puppy away from home!
Never use neighborhood walks as a relieving opportunity! This can cause the puppy
to develop bad habits very quickly allowing a puppy to relieve on a walk leads to
relieving in harness.
When introducing your puppy to stores and businesses, he should be kept close to
the entrance and only allowed in the store for a minute or so. Follow this procedure
for several weeks, so that the puppy is never given the chance to relieve himself in a
store.
As your pup matures and is able to control himself better, he can be kept inside the
store/mall for longer periods but still shouldnt be taken far from an entrance.
If your puppy does have an accident in a place of business, go back to one minute at
the entrance and take time to build up again. Relieving habits form quickly and
several accidents in the mall may take months of careful re-training.
Recognize what inappropriate relieving is! A relieving accident occurs any time your
puppy indicates a need to relieve without you first offering the opportunity, ideally at
a scheduled time in the regular relieving spot.
11/2008
Section 3-2
Relieving
Marking
To discourage marking behavior, always relieve a male puppy away from vertical
objects such as trees, bushes and the sides of buildings. Try to choose level areas
without vertical objects for relieving areas.
Male puppies that continually try to mark vertical objects without a command should
be walked towards bushes, posts and other vertical objects and corrected as they
raise their leg. After a few exercises such as this, encourage the puppy to relieve on
command in a level area.
What to Do if Your Puppy Relieves Without Permission

(for puppies over five months of age)
If you are in a public place with spectators present and your puppy indicates a need
to relieve, give him a verbal correction and place him quickly into a sit for
approximately one minute. Then take him home, if possible, to complete relieving. It
is not unreasonable to expect your puppy to hold himself for the car ride home or at
least to a close, designated relieving area. The time between your puppy indicating a
need to relieve, and actually being given the opportunity, will teach him that he must
sometimes hold himself.
If you are in a situation, like a neighborhood walk, where correction is possible, you
should react dramatically with a more intense verbal correction (as though your pup
is about to relieve on a white carpet!) and also give a firm leash correction to disrupt
relieving. Your puppy should be placed firmly into a sit for several minutes and then
taken home or to the designated relieving area to complete relieving. Your puppy
should be praised and played with when it relieves at home or in a designated
relieving area.
Even if your puppy is just asking to relieve, he should be corrected. Remember, we
are training the puppy to relieve on command when offered a relieving opportunity
by you - not when he chooses the time and place
Some puppies need to be caught and corrected in the act to impress upon them that
they are doing something wrong, just as in housebreaking.
If your puppy is unstoppable in a relieving accident you should ignore him while he
completes relieving and determine to be more vigilant in observing your puppy for
warning signals in the future.
Many raisers think that it is not an accident if the puppy is not in a building/store, if he
pulls to the side or if he is not wearing his jacket. Not so! An accident is any unplanned
relieving.
Tips for Preventing Stool Eating
Your puppy may pick up, play with or even eat his own feces or that of another pet. This
often starts out of boredom, but may soon become a habit. Eating stools (i.e.
"coprophagia") is most definitely an undesirable habit!
Keep the area clean. The fewer opportunities your puppy has to pick up a stool, the
fewer chances he will have to practice the habit.
11/2008
Section 3-2
Relieving
Watch your puppy when he is in the yard and try to catch him in the act. The
dragline is very useful for setting up this type of training. As he investigates a stool
and goes to pick it up, leash correct him instantly before he can.
There are various additives that may be recommended for dogs that practice this
behavior. Check with your leader and CFR before trying any of these on your puppy.
If you have more than one dog, and your puppy eats the feces of other dogs, all the
dogs in the household will need to be treated.
All dogs are attracted to, and will eat, cat stools. If they get it out of the litter box,
they may become severely ill from ingesting the kitty litter. Prevention includes
cleaning the litter box frequently and, of course, supervising your puppy closely to
ensure that he cannot get into the litter box.
Contact your leader if your puppy has accidents on walks or outings.

Correcting poor relieving habits early can help prevent bigger problems.
Avoid creating a pattern that can lead to relieving in harness and prevent your puppy
from becoming a guide!
11/2008
Section 3-2
Relieving
3-3 GROOMING
Grooming is important not only for your puppy's health and hygiene, but also to teach
him to accept being handled. The earlier you start grooming the better because the
longer you wait, the more difficult it will be to get him to calmly accept being handled.
Grooming should be started no later than one or two days after he arrives. The necessary
supplies are detailed in "2-4 Equipment (and how to use it)" in section 2: Preparing for
puppy raising.
Brush your puppy every day
Groom for short periods, working up to 10-15 minutes a day.

Use the floor or a sturdy table. If you use a table, provide a non-slip surface and do
not leave him unattended even for a moment. Keep your hands on his collar at all
times to prevent him from falling.
Brush while he is sitting or lying on his side.
Be gentle and include all parts of his body: ears, neck, chest, belly, legs and tail.
Brush with the lay of his hair.
Talk to him gently, calming him.
If he struggles, give a collar correction without saying "no," and praise him when he
calms.
The "calming sit" exercise discussed in "6-3 Commands" in section 6: Training
techniques will help you with your grooming.
While brushing your puppy, watch for external parasites, areas of the coat that have
been chewed or licked, hot spots, other sores or cuts, hair loss, mats or ear tip
irritation.
Check unspayed females for abnormal vaginal discharge (a little mucous is normal) or
signs of heat (a drop of bright blood will be the first sign, followed by a darker
discharge and swelling).
Check ears for any redness, odor or discharge.
Regular paw care is important
Check pads and in between toes daily for cuts, abrasions or irritations.
When checking pads and between toes, gently but firmly touch each toe and nail
with one hand, while steadying the paw with the other hand. This will help teach
him to accept having his toenails trimmed.
Trim toenails as needed, usually weekly. Long nails may cause the toes to spread,
putting unnecessary stress on the feet and pasterns (wrist joints).
2/2003
Section 3-3
Grooming
Ask your leader to show you how to trim nails. If done incorrectly, it can cause the
puppy to be uncomfortable about having his nails trimmed.
If you do accidentally cut into the quick and cause bleeding, DO NOT PANIC.
Simply use alum, a styptic powder, or pressure with a tissue on the nail to stop the
bleeding.
Ear cleaning can prevent ear infections

Ear care is one of the most commonly overlooked areas in dog grooming. Because of
this, many ear conditions requiring veterinary treatment could have been avoided by
using proper preventative ear cleaning methods. The most common conditions of the
ear that require veterinary treatment are infections (otitis). Either bacteria or yeast that
have multiplied to high levels in the ears most commonly cause infections. Each of these
problems requires different treatments. Ear mites, which are parasites, are not as
commonly found in dogs as they are in pet cats.
Most dogs will let you know when they are experiencing discomfort in the ear. Shaking
or tilting of the head, frequent or prolonged scratching of the ears or back of the head, or
rubbing the side of the head along the floor are usually indicative of an ear infection or a
foreign object in the ear canal such as a tick or a foxtail. Sometimes the only symptom is
a bad odor or dark wax.
To avoid unnecessary veterinary treatment and discomfort to our puppies, we ask that
you, the puppy raiser, clean the puppys ears once weekly with the ear cleansing/drying
solution provided in your puppy packet. It is also important to check your puppys ears
daily when you groom him for any signs of redness, odor, or an increase in wax. If any of
these signs are present, contact your leader to determine if your puppy needs to be seen
by a veterinarian.
Guide Dogs supplies an ear cleaning/drying solution in the puppy packet that
accompanies your pup and asks all raisers to clean their dogs ears once a week.
Once a week squirt a small amount of ChlorhexiDerm flush ear cleaning solution
onto a cotton ball so that it becomes drippy with the solution.
Using the cotton ball, massage the base and inside of the ear gently for approximately
10 seconds to clean and loosen debris from the ear canal. Be careful not to plug the
ear canal with cotton or apply pressure into the ear.
Use a dry cotton ball or gauze strip to remove any excess liquid and debris from the
ear canal.
Do not apply solution directly into your puppys ear canal.

Please DO NOT use a cotton swab as it may only push wax further down the ear canal.
Eyes may also need to be cleaned
Wipe the face, dabbing at the corners of the eyes, with a water moistened cotton ball.
Some discharge is normal, but watch for excessive discharge.
Do not touch the eye itself, as you may scratch it.
2/2003
Section 3-3
Grooming
Clean your puppy's teeth every week

Dogs get plaque on their teeth just like we do! Plaque is made of proteins (from saliva)
and bacteria. If the plaque is not removed every day, the bacteria will multiply rapidly
and invade the gums around the teeth. Gingivitis, or inflammation of the gums, results. If
the plaque is still not removed, the inflammation of the gums will spread to the bone
around the teeth and cause bone loss or periodontal disease. Ultimately, the teeth have
no bony support and may become loose, or even fall out.
Fortunately, gingivitis is reversible and periodontal disease is preventable! When plaque
is removed by tooth brushing, the gums and bone around the teeth will stay healthy. If
plaque is not removed, calculus or "tartar" will form when minerals from saliva cause the
plaque to harden. Once calculus is present, a professional cleaning is needed to remove
it. You can prevent calculus from forming by removing plaque every day with tooth
brushing.
If you have never done this before, start by spending a few minutes each day gently
handling your puppys mouth. As part of your daily puppy handling exercises, lift up his
lips and touch the outside of the puppys teeth and gums to get him used to this new
experience. After several days of doing this, introduce your puppy to the oral cleansing
gel following the instructions recommended by our veterinarians.
Never use human toothpaste it can be harmful and upset your puppys stomach.
INSTRUCTIONS:
Put a small amount of oral cleansing gel on a soft-bristled toothbrush (use the one
supplied in the puppys packet) or on a piece of gauze wrapped around your finger.
The paste should be pressed down into the bristles, so the pet doesn't lick it off the
brush. Start by brushing just a few teeth at a time.
Holding the brush head at a 45-degree angle to the gum line, gently brush in circular
strokes from the gum line to the tip of each tooth.
Only clean the outside surfaces of your puppys teeth and gums. Day-by-day, slowly
work towards the back of the mouth, until your puppy is comfortable and will allow
you to lift his lips and hold his head steady for several minutes.
Please be careful to not let your puppy bite your finger or toothbrush while brushing
his teeth.
We recommend that you clean your puppys teeth once or twice weekly to prevent
gum, tooth and bone disease and the bad breath that follows.
Bathing your pup
Do not bathe your puppy more often than every six weeks or so unless he is
unusually dirty. Frequent baths can harm your puppy's coat and skin.
As all new experiences, introduce bathing slowly to avoid frightening your pup.
Keep your puppys collar on while you are bathing him.
Always put a towel or rubber mat in the bottom of the tub to prevent slipping. If he
slips in the tub, your puppy may become very frightened of being bathed.
2/2003
Section 3-3
Grooming
Check to make sure that the water is not too hot. It should be comfortable for your
hand, but not too cold.
Keep water out of his ears. You can do this by putting a cotton ball in each ear, but
dont push them in too far and remember to take them out!
Keep soap out of his eyes.
Do not use human shampoo. Purchase shampoo made just for dogs as it is balanced
for the pH of his coat.
Be sure to thoroughly rinse out the shampoo, as it will cause skin irritation if it is left
in the coat.
When you are done, you can squeeze water out of his coat. While he is still in the
tub, let the puppy shake off most of the water and then towel him dry.
If you wish to use a blow dryer on your puppy, please introduce it carefully.
Turn it on and off a few times away from the puppy before bringing it near him.
When you turn it on near the puppy, keep the airflow directed away from him
until he appears comfortable with the noise.
Start the airflow on his legs and gradually work it up his body.
NEVER aim a blow dryer at your puppy's face. It is very uncomfortable and may
cause him to become very frightened or anxious about blow dryers.
Hold the hair dryer no closer to the dog than 12-18 inches.
As an alternative to bathing, a dog can be wiped down with a damp towel.
Dogs are social grooming animals. Grooming not only keeps

your dog healthy and clean, it also helps your puppy bond to
you. Remember to praise him often when he behaves appropriately.
2/2003
Section 3-3
Grooming
3-4 EXERCISE AND PLAY

Daily exercise and play are as important as nutrition, grooming or other activities in
raising a healthy, well-behaved Guide Dog puppy. Guide Dogs are active animals. Having
a trim, well-muscled body will make his guidework training easier because he may be
required to walk many miles in a day. Exercise and play will also help your pup learn to
bond and thoroughly enjoy the time you spend with him.
Puppies may indicate their need for more exercise by displaying:
Excessive excitability
Non-stop activity
Persistent mouthing
Running through the house and bouncing off furniture
Get your pup in shape by starting early on a regular program of exercise and play. Use
the following guidelines to help your pup avoid injuries, behavior problems or
overheating when exercising.
Watch for signs that your puppy may be getting too tired:
Heavy panting
Heavy breathing
Slowness
Attempts to lie down
Play and exercise appropriately
Play and exercise - which includes running and romping - should occur outside in a
fenced area or on a long-line or Flexi-lead if the area is not fenced. It's okay for your
pup to run, but you should not chase him. Indoor play should be kept low-key by
encouraging the puppy to play with his toys.
Do not permit or encourage wrestling, roughhousing, chase games or racing through
the house (use your dragline to stop him).
Walking on-leash, running in a fenced yard, swimming on a line in a safe environment
and Guide Dog approved types of play (interactive play, tug and hide-and-seek) are all
good forms of exercise.
Please do not jog with your puppy. Many joggers cannot accurately gauge their
puppies' tolerance for exercise and may inadvertently damage their young, growing
joints.
Exercise and play in a safe manner
Remember that your puppy must be in an enclosed area or on-leash at all times.
The amount of exercise should be appropriate for your puppy's age. Do not push a
young puppy too hard.
Take into account your puppy's physical condition. A puppy that's out of shape
should not be expected to overexert himself.
Learn your pup's energy level. Different dogs have different exercise needs.
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Section 3-4
Exercise & Play
Choose the right times for exercise and play. Avoid hard play and excessive
exercise directly after mealtimes. Be cautious of the weather conditions,
particularly heat. DOGS ARE MORE SUSCEPTIBLE TO OVERHEATING THAN
HUMANS.
Provide water during and after exercise and play. Offer small amounts of water
frequently when your puppy is hot after exercise or hard play. If you allow him to gulp
down large amounts of water at one time when he is hot, he may vomit the water back
up.
To help keep him cool, you may also want to gently wet your puppy down with a hose in
the summer before exercising him.
Teach your puppy to play interactively with you (without using a

toy)
Play is a crucial element in developing a well-balanced happy puppy. Puppies learn about
their world and how to interact with a human being through play. It is therefore
important that you teach your puppy how to play appropriately. He needs to learn how
to play gently and in a controlled manner, to play with you using a toy and also how to
play with you when there is no toy present.
Appropriate play can be used to entertain the pup when he becomes bored, to mildly
exercise him and to build his trust and self-control. Play can also be a great stress
reliever. Puppies who have learned how to play appropriately and interactively (with you,
but without using a toy) will have a great advantage when they enter training and when
they go on to become guides. Their partner will be able to help them relieve any stress
they may be feeling by initiating play even when a toy is not present.
Use these general rules when playing with your puppy
Teach your puppy to play "interactively" (WITHOUT a toy) with you as well as teaching
him such games as tug and hide-and-seek.
Frequently play with your puppy on leash.
Provide only Guide Dog approved toys for your puppy.
Do not use discarded human clothing or linens when playing with your puppy.
Do not play retrieve games with balls, sticks, frisbees or stones.
Refrain from wrestling or rough housing with your puppy. It will teach him a behavior
that is not appropriate and that he may attempt with strangers or children.
Do not play chase or keep away.
To play interactively with your puppy:
start on leash
stand, sit or kneel on the floor
encourage the puppy to push back, dance or dart, be happy
encourage the puppy to play by using an enticing tone of voice and light, playful
touches
2/2003
Section 3-4
Exercise & Play
stop play by using the That's enough command and enforcing it with a leash and
collar correction followed by an enforced Sit command if the puppy still wants to
continue playing after you have told him to stop.
to prevent the puppy from getting out of control, start and stop play when you want
to, not when your puppy wants to start or stop.
Interactive play should not include:
roughhousing
wrestling
the puppy chasing you or you chasing the puppy
holding the puppy down on the ground or in the "alpha roll position"
"pounding" or slapping vigorously on the puppy
ear pulling
When you and your puppy play, do not encourage or permit your puppy to:
become excessively excited

vocalize
mouth or grab at you or your clothing
snap
bark
leap up onto you or hard against you
race behind you
mount you or objects
When playing interactively, be sure to use an encouraging, but not loud, tone of voice
and only gentle pushing or pats.
Controlling play with your puppy
Even when playing, be a leader and use the rules for controlling play.
Controlling play will help teach your puppy self-control
It is important for you to teach a Guide Dog puppy how to play carefully with people.
You do that by controlling:
who initiates play
when a puppy gets to play
how he plays
the level and intensity of play
who ends the game
When you initiate and control play, you assert yourself as the pack leader. When you
assert yourself as the pack leader, it is easier to keep your puppy calm.
2/2003
Section 3-4
Exercise & Play
Control when play starts and stops
Start play at a time convenient for you.

Do not give in to your puppy's attempts to get you to play when he's excited or when
he brings his toys to you.
Start play with your puppy at a time when he does not expect the invitation.
Stop play when you desire and before the puppy is ready to stop.
Control the intensity of the game
Remember to be an example. When you see him becoming overly excited, STOP THE
GAME.
Play with the puppy at a controlled level. Do not intensify the play or let the puppy
escalate the play into a frenzy.
Make sure he stops playing when you are ready to stop
To stop play, tell the puppy That's enough in a calm, firm voice and then use a leash
and collar correction (your puppy should be on a leash or dragline) if he doesn't stop.
Highly excitable puppies may need to be made to sit and stay beside you for a
minute or so until they calm down. This will help them achieve self-control.
If a toy is used, take it away, praising the puppy as he releases the toy. Then place the
toy in a place out of the puppy's reach (such as on the top of the refrigerator).
Correct your puppy if he pesters you to continue play. Then use a command such as
Sit and make him do it.
Correct the puppy if he jumps against the refrigerator in an attempt to get the toy.
Quietly and calmly praise the puppy when he calms.
Leave the toy where it is until you initiate play the next time.
Tug game procedures

Tug can be a very fun, interactive game to play with your pup. When taught properly and
played within the guidelines given below, it does not promote aggressive behavior. As
with anything, moderation is the best policy.
Approved tug toys are listed in the Puppy toy and play policies in the Policies, forms
and resources section at the end of this manual. Do not leave tug toys out for your
puppy to chew on!
When playing, keep the tug toy down at dog level. This will help discourage
jumping up to get the toy and possibly missing and getting your hand instead.
"Play growling" is okay but watch the body language and intensity of play. With any
sign of hackling (hair rising along the back of the neck or down to the tail), high
intensity, reckless biting, or other inappropriate accelerations, give a calm leash
correction and stop the game. Put the toy aside while you do some calming exercises
and/or obedience work with the pup.
Do not play "helicopter dog" (swing the dog around while he is holding the toy). This
is unsafe for the puppy and may cause injury!
2/2003
Section 3-4
Exercise & Play
You should initiate the game. Don't let the pup dictate to you.
You choose when to stop the game; don't let him run off with the toy.
The tug toy should be put away when done, do not leave it on the floor.
The tug game should be taught on-leash so that you can control inappropriate
behaviors and actions of the pup.
Leash correct for:
jumping at or on you
putting feet on you
mouthing your hand or clothing
Practice starting and stopping the game once or twice per session. When you stop the
play, use the Thats enough command (see 6-3 Commands in section 6: Training
techniques) and praise the puppy when he stops playing on command.
Leash correct if he tries to continue the game after you have stopped it.
Don't hide the toy when you stop, but teach him to behave when the toy is within his
sight.
Toys that encourage interaction with your puppy, such as rings and pull
toys are best. Offer only approved toys that won't come apart or break off
in tiny pieces that could choke your dog (see the Policies, forms and resources section
for the Puppy toy and play policy). Never allow your puppy to chew off and swallow
pieces of rubber tug toys. Ingestion of rubber can damage the puppy's liver or block
his intestines.
Hide-and-seek game procedures

This exercise teaches the puppy to come to his handler even when the pup cannot see
the handler. It should be taught, at first, on-leash. The first part of the exercise is
identical to the "two handler come" exercise, which is outlined in 6-3 Commands in
section 6: Training techniques.
After completing the two handler come exercise, the next step is for you to step just
around a doorway or corner. Then call the puppy. For the first time or two, while the
puppy is learning that you are close by even though he can't see you, step into sight
and go up to the puppy if he does not immediately come to you. Tell your puppy to
Come again, taking hold of his collar and backing up. Praise and use a happy tone as
you bring him toward you.
As he is doing this recall, back up until you are standing in the spot where you
originally called the puppy. Take hold of his collar just as you do when practicing a
normal recall and then praise copiously.
Start over and practice the sequence until the puppy figures out that even though he
can't see you, you are still there.
After the puppy can successfully come a short distance even though he can't see you,
trade off with the other handler and have them go just around the corner.
2/2003
Section 3-4
Exercise & Play
When the puppy responds promptly when called even though he can't see you, begin
gradually increasing the distance and working in different areas.
Remember to only work this exercise in safely enclosed areas such as inside your
house or in a safely fenced area.
If your puppy sometimes gets upset when you leave him or trade him off, you should
only practice this exercise a few times. This will help the puppy avoid becoming too
focused on you.
If the puppy becomes overly excited and races indiscriminately throughout the
exercise, discontinue play.
2/2003
Section 3-4
Exercise & Play
3-5 TRAINS, PLANES AND AUTOMOBILES

Guide Dogs public access for puppies
State laws vary according to granting public access to guide dog puppies. Regardless
of state law, and in accordance with Guide Dogs for the Blind policy, Guide Dog
puppies may only have access to public or private places where they are granted
willing admittance or inclusion by the proprietor, manager or staff of the business,
facility or service.
Guide Dogs will not lobby or otherwise attempt to achieve access for puppies in any
setting where the puppies are not welcome. Raisers and leaders may not demand,
coerce, lobby, argue, litigate or otherwise attempt to force issues of access for Guide
Dog puppies.
Transportation of program and career change dogs

To ensure the safety and positive public image of Guide Dog puppies, staff and
volunteers, Guide Dogs requires that:
Regardless of the means of transportation, Guide Dog staff and volunteers must
make every effort to ensure that a program dog travels as safely as possible.
Puppies under the age of five months may not be transported within an airline cabin
except by Guide Dog staff.
Puppies with inappropriate temperament or behavior may not be transported within
an airline cabin.
All puppies transported within an airline cabin must be individually pre-approved by
the supervising CFR.
No youth may transport a puppy within the cabin of an airplane without an adult
Guide Dogs-trained handler in attendance.
Raisers and leaders may not demand, coerce, lobby, argue, litigate or otherwise
attempt to force issues of access for any puppy denied access to any means of public
or private transportation.
Career change dogs may not ride within the cabin of an airline and may not access
other means of public or private transportation made available specifically to
program-active dogs either by law or by the courtesy of transporter.
Career change dogs may never wear a guide dog harness or puppy coat to gain access
to a means of transportation.
A Guide Dog puppy causing a disturbance on public transportation must exit that
transportation provider at the first available opportunity.
Guide Dog puppies may not be left unattended in a vehicle.
Volunteers transporting a Guide Dog puppy out-of-state or on a trip longer than one
weeks time must receive approval from their CFR.
These guidelines have been developed to ensure the comfort and safety of the raisers,
puppies and other passengers. Please always remember that we have no legal right to
transport our puppies in the cabin of airplanes. We are being granted that access as a
privilege from individual airlines that wish to voluntarily do so. Different airline staff
may interpret airline policy differently. You may be denied access at any time and must
Section 3-5
2/2003
Trains, Planes & Autos
willingly comply with the instructions of the airline employee that you are
communicating with. Please be courteous when interacting with airline personnel or
other passengers.
Community Field Representatives must be consulted before any puppy flies. CFRs have
full and final authority to grant, limit or deny a puppy's flying. Please always remember
that puppy-sitting is advantageous to most puppies and is a viable alternative to taking a
puppy on a trip. Raisers are encouraged to discuss this option with their leaders.
Guide Dogs will only pay for any freight charges, excessive baggage charges or health
certificates for flights that are requested by Guide Dogs. Any transportation of a puppy
by a raiser, as part of a business or pleasure trip, is the complete financial responsibility
of the raiser as is the kenneling of any puppy whose raisers are gone for similar reasons.
All dogs being flown are required, by law, to have a current health certificate and rabies
certificate signed by a licensed veterinarian. Puppies below the age of 20 weeks, and all
other Guide Dog puppies that show evidence of behavioral or medical conditions that
might affect their ability to behave appropriately during an airplane trip, must be flown
as freight or excess baggage (with advance permission from the airlines and the approval
of their CFR only).
We thank you for following the guidelines listed above. In doing so, you are supporting
our mission and creating a safer environment for the puppies. Happy travels!
Traveling with and without your puppy

Once your puppy has adapted to you, your family, and the guidelines you set for him, he
may be able to accompany you on trips if your leader feels that he is mature enough to
deal well with travel. CFRs must approve all puppies flown within the cabin of an
airplane or long trips by car or any other means. Generally raisers with mature, wellcontrolled, healthy puppies may take them on trips within the U.S. and Canada. Due to
the health risks involved, please do not take your Guide Dog puppy with you if you are
planning a trip to Mexico or South America.
The experience of taking your puppy on a trip will benefit him later as a Guide Dog, when
he is traveling with his blind partner.
Guidelines
Please notify your leader if you would like to take your puppy with you on your
vacation. Your leader will consult with your CFR to determine if your puppy is ready
for travel.
If your leader or CFR feels that your Guide Dog puppy should not accompany you on
your trip, please arrange for a puppy-sitter or plan to board your puppy at your
expense (if he is old enough). If your puppy cannot go on vacation with you, do not
leave him at home unattended.
Puppy-sitters should be approved by your leader and should receive instruction on
Guide Dog puppy management before you leave the puppy in their care.
Always tell your leader with whom you have arranged care for your puppy, making
sure that you provide the sitter's name, address and phone number.
Section 3-5
2/2003
Never leave your pup with an inexperienced person who has not received
instruction on Guide Dog puppy management.
Puppies below the age of 16 weeks should not be boarded in a commercial kennel
if at all possible. If you must leave him in a commercial kennel, carefully check it
out in advance to be sure it's safe and clean. Ask your leader for care suggestions.
Please carefully consider the appropriateness of settings you take your puppy to.
Amusement parks, large fairs, festivals and other large, noisy events can overwhelm
him. (Please reference the Puppy socialization guide in 6-2: Socialization). Make
sure that the weather is appropriate and that you have a means to provide him relief
from heat or cold or from over stimulation.
On trips, avoid leaving your puppy unattended while you go out. If you must leave
him crated, leave him only for short periods in a crate and in an environment where
he is secure and comfortable.
Be sure he's in a safe temperature.
Do not leave him if he is likely to disturb others with crying and barking.
Do not leave him unattended in a vehicle. He can be stolen or overheat.
Whenever possible, take a crate along for your puppy.
A crate will give your puppy a familiar time-out location when he becomes restless
from stressful or boring travel times.
A crate will provide your puppy a secure location where he cannot cause
destruction in your hotel room.
Have your puppy follow all the same rules he does at home. Vacations with your
puppy should be a learning experience for him.
Give your puppy plenty of breaks for relieving and drinking water. Teach your puppy
to relieve on a variety of appropriate surfaces.
When vacationing with your dog, be sure to pack for him! Always bring
along your dog's medical history, proof of vaccinations, a leash and cleanup kit, medications, food and grooming supplies.
It is wise to contact park administration before bringing your dog on a camping trip.
Many parks require rabies vaccinations within the past year. Some do not allow dogs
at all.
When camping with your dog, bring enough food for the entire trip. Changes in diet
can disrupt digestion. If at all possible, pack the water your puppy is used to drinking
or buy bottled water. A change in water can cause diarrhea.
Do not assume your puppy will be welcome everywhere. Call ahead and have
alternative plans if your puppy is refused access. Raisers may never demand access
for their puppy regardless of any laws and are to take their puppies only where they
are welcome.
Transporting Guide Dog puppies in vehicles
To have a puppy enter a vehicle, begin by having the puppy be patient for a moment
while the door is held open. As long as the pup is being patient, allow it to get in the
car with the release word OK.
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2/2003
If sitting in a front seat with very little floor space, you can leave your right leg out
and then encourage the puppy to enter. You may use the word Kennel, which a
puppy should interpret as entering any confined space (a crate, a car, under a desk,
etc.). Always make sure the tail and feet are inside before closing the door.
For additional advice on acclimating puppies to the vehicles sounds and motion, see 62 Socialization in section 6: Training techniques.
We do not recommend allowing pups on seats, but there are some cars that give no
option due to floor space or other factors, including front seat airbags. If you have no
choice but to allow the puppy on a seat, keep the pup in one spot, preferably on the
rear seat and don't allow him to move around. If riding in someone else's car, it would
be courteous to provide a large towel or sheet to cover the spot to help keep the seat
clean.
You may have heard controversy over the danger to children and animals with some
passenger side airbags. In some incidences, accidents triggering these airbags have
injured and even killed small children and animals. Although we do not have
knowledge of any Guide Dog puppies or guides ever being injured, we advise having
puppies that ride in cars that have front seat passenger airbags to lay on the back seat
floorboards, the back seat if there is not adequate room on the backseat floorboards, or
on tie-down on the passenger floor at a level which will be below an activated airbag.
There are a variety of car seat restraints for dogs on the market. We have found limited
evidence of the complete testing of any of these devices. Devices are most often tested
for fabric strength not animal injury prevention. Improperly designed models may
have the potential to cause injury to a dog or puppy. Do not use car seat restraints for
your Guide Dog puppy.
The pup can ride in the back of a station wagon or hatchback, but they should remain
in one spot and be well behaved. If the surface is slick, you need to provide a non-slick
surface such as a rubber-backed carpet or rubber mat for the pup to ride on. Puppies
can become worried if they slide around and cannot get any traction to brace
themselves. Puppies can develop a fear of car riding, caused by sliding around.
The safest place for puppies to ride in cars is in a secured crate if one will fit in the
back seat or a cargo area.
We do not recommend having puppies travel in the back of open pickup trucks; if you
must transport the pup in the back of an open pickup truck, use a safely secured
kennel crate. Try to avoid this method of transportation if at all possible; being so
closely exposed to traffic can frighten puppies.
Puppies shall not ride unconfined in the back of trucks. Cross-tying them is not an
acceptable option. Many states now have laws restricting dogs loose in pickup trucks
due to potential accidents and the risk to the dogs life.
The primary rule in dog transportation is to use common sense. Evaluate the situation
utilizing the guidelines above and select a safe, manageable option. The primary goals are
safety and teaching the puppy to calmly remain where you have placed him. A puppy or
Section 3-5
2/2003
dog that is not trusted to remain calm in all circumstances should be on tie-down or crated
while in a vehicle. If you are transporting a potentially unruly or otherwise distracting
puppy, always have a passenger aboard to control him.
Also remember that a common cause of death to dogs is being left unattended in cars on
hot, or even just warm, days. Guide Dog puppies may not be left alone in vehicles
regardless of the weather.
Lost puppy procedures

There are few situations more frightening than losing your puppy. In our experience,
many puppies are lost when being transported, so be particularly careful to supervise
your pup during travel. Here are some general guidelines:
Preventive steps:
Never take the Guide Dog collar and tag off your puppy.
Make sure your yard is escape-proof.
When your puppy is in the house, make sure all doors are kept closed to prevent
escape.
Teach your puppy not to bolt through doors.
Do not let your puppy off-leash outdoors in unfenced areas.
Steps to follow when your puppy is lost:
Immediately call Guide Dogs for the Blind at (800) 295-4050. If you are calling after
business hours, follow the voice prompts to reach the kennel staff. If someone has
found your puppy, chances are they will call the (800) line located on your puppys
identification tag.
Immediately call your leader.
Start searching immediately.
Recruit other club members to help search. Get a detailed map of the area and
organize search teams by area.
Place an advertisement in your local paper.
Put signs with photos on local telephone poles, in stores, at veterinary clinics, etc. and
on vehicles in the neighborhood.
Go to your local animal shelter, rather than calling. The shelter receptionist may not
be aware that your puppy is there.
Be very accurate in giving any descriptions of your puppy (show photos if possible).
When talking to people, stress that the lost dog is a Guide Dog puppy.
Try to generate a "Lost Guide Dog" human-interest story from your local newspaper
or other media.
Drive around the neighborhood as often as possible.
Check with neighborhood children. They may be aware of a new dog in the
neighborhood.
Your puppy may be attracted to places where people or children gather, so check at
schools or shopping centers.
Don't get discouraged. Keep looking!
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4-1 WORKING WITH VETERINARIANS

Payment of veterinary expenses
Puppy Raising veterinary partner program
As veterinary care partners, raisers are required to participate in their dogs health care
management. Essential means of doing this are maintaining diet, exercise and grooming
standards; communicating effectively with their leaders and CFRs; and following the
instructions of their community veterinarians and Guide Dog staff veterinarians.
Please refer to the Veterinary Care Orientation Package included in your puppy packet
for the details of our veterinary partner program.
Emergency care should be pre-authorized when possible; but if your puppys life is at
stake, please concentrate on getting the care needed to stabilize the puppys condition
and contact our veterinarians as soon as possible once the puppy is stabilized.
Guide Dogs provides approved heartworm prevention and flea products. Spaying and
neutering must be approved in writing prior to the procedure. Raisers will be notified
when it is acceptable.
We encourage raisers, leaders, and CFRs to work cooperatively, identifying veterinarians
who offer quality service, cost savings, and proactive communications with our clinics.
Please direct any reimbursement questions to our Vet Bill Hotline at (800) 295-4050 ext.
4117 or (415) 492-4117.
Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 4: Health care
2/2003
Section 4-1
Working with Vets
The physical characteristics of a dog

Use the picture and terminology provided below when discussing your puppy with your
veterinarian, your leader or Guide Dogs staff. Correct use of terminology helps everyone
understand what is being described.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Head
Neck
Withers
Back
Croup
Tail
7. Thigh
8. Stifle
9. Hock
10. Loin
11. Brisket
12. Pastern
13.
14.
15.
16.
Feet
Chest
Shoulder
Bite/Teeth
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Section 4-1
Working with Vets
4-2 EMERGENCIES
In the event of an emergency, Guide Dogs authorizes you to get stabilizing treatment for
your puppy even if you are unable to contact your leader or a Guide Dog employee. As
soon as your puppy's condition has been stabilized, please ask your veterinarian to
contact the veterinary staff at Guide Dogs before providing further care. You should also
immediately notify your leader who will, in turn, notify your area CFR.
In cases of more involved or prolonged care, Guide Dog puppies may, at times, be
brought into one of the Guide Dog facilities for veterinary care. These full-service
diagnostic and surgical facilities are staffed seven days a week.
Guide Dog employees are available 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM Monday through Saturday to
answer questions from your veterinarian. Make sure that you tell your veterinarian that
your puppy is a Guide Dog puppy and request that he communicates first with our
veterinary staff before providing any non-routine care.
If your veterinarian recommends that a specialist see your Guide Dog puppy, please do
not schedule an appointment until your veterinarian first has consulted with the
veterinary staff of Guide Dogs. All specialist fees must be pre-approved by Guide Dogs to
be eligible for reimbursement to the raiser or veterinarian providing services.
Emergencies and first aid procedures
Emergencies happen. Because they are unexpected, the people and animals involved tend
to become frightened or overly excited. The first and foremost guideline in an emergency
is: REMAIN CALM. Your brain and common sense are your best resources in an
emergency. Make a conscious effort to stop and calm yourself for a few seconds before
acting. This will enable you to calm and assist your puppy more effectively.
In an emergency, before you take your puppy to the veterinarian's office, call ahead to
ensure the doctor will be available and to give the staff adequate time to prepare for your
arrival. Learn the route to the emergency hospital in advance if it is a different facility
from your veterinarian's hospital.
Bee stings/insect reactions
If visible, remove the stinger with tweezers. Use cool compresses to the area. Notify your
veterinarian and transport your puppy immediately if he shows signs of an allergic
reaction, such as difficulty breathing, hives or swollen facial features.
Bleeding
Apply direct pressure on the wound with gauze or a clean cloth. Add additional gauze or
cloth if blood soaks through the first layer (but do not remove the first layer). Keep the
pressure steady. Transport your pup to the veterinarian.
Choking
If the puppy is conscious, keep him calm and transport him to the veterinarian. If the
pup is unconscious, open his mouth and check the mouth/throat for any obstructions.
2/2003
Section 4-2
Emergencies
Extend the head and neck, then pull the tongue forward. Use a washcloth to hold on to
the tongue and avoid being accidentally bitten.
Diarrhea
Diarrhea can be a common problem with puppies, and the cause can be difficult to
determine. Your puppy may have swallowed garbage or eaten rich food, or bacteria or an
infectious virus could be the cause. There is no need to worry unless your puppy shows
other signs of illness or the condition continues for more than two days.
Regardless of the cause, the treatment is the same: feed your puppy absolutely nothing
for the first 12 hours (for a young puppy), or 24 hours for an older puppy (8 months or
more) after a diarrhea attack occurs. The puppy should still be provided with water as
long as he isn't vomiting. You can also give him Pepto-Bismol (liquid - one to two
tablespoons, two to four times a day, or tablets in the adult dosage).
When you begin feeding your puppy again, prepare a bland diet of cooked (not instant),
white rice and cottage cheese. The meal should be 1 part cottage cheese to 3 parts rice.
Keep your puppy on this diet with plenty of fresh water for one or two days, then over
the next four or five days gradually resume his normal diet.
When to contact your veterinarian:
if the puppy's temperature goes above 103 degrees

if vomiting accompanies the diarrhea for more than half a day
if quite a bit of blood appears in the stool
if the diarrhea persists more than two days
if your puppy cannot keep water down
if your puppy is markedly depressed
Heat stroke
Begin cooling by running tap water over the puppy's body and legs. Do not use cold
water or ice. Call the veterinarian and transport your pup immediately.
Vomiting
Vomiting may be a sign that your puppy has swallowed something that doesn't agree
with him, such as grass, cigarette butts, leaves and twigs or garbage. Sometimes puppies
will retch and bring up a yellowish substance. This is fairly normal and a sign that
something did not quite agree with him.
If he vomits continually or for more than three hours, vomits blood or seems very
depressed, contact your leader or veterinarian. Withhold food and all oral medications
until his system has settled down. When you clean up the mess, check it for foreign
material. This may give you a clue as to what he chewed or swallowed, and if any action
is needed. Save the remains of any chewed package material or plants for poison control
information.
Seizures
While seizures can be very frightening to observe, they are rarely damaging. If your
puppy begins to have a seizure, do not attempt to interfere or to touch him. Supervise
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Section 4-2
Emergencies
him without handling him until the seizure passes. Stay calm and call the veterinarian for
further instructions. Make sure the puppy cannot fall down stairs or into water.
Poisoning
Contact the veterinarian immediately. Stay calm and be prepared with answers about the
type of poison, the amount ingested, when the poisoning occurred and any current
symptoms. Transport the pup to the vet, if requested, and bring the poison's original
container.
Wounds
Superficial wounds should be cleaned by gently washing with soap and water, rinsing
well, removing all debris, dirt, etc. Use an antibiotic ointment.
Deep wounds need to have bleeding controlled. Contact the veterinarian and protect the
wound with a clean, damp compress while transporting.
Keeping your puppy healthy
The most effective way to fight health problems is by preventing them from developing
in the first place. Through careful supervision you can avoid situations where your pup
could swallow poisons or foreign objects. You can keep your pup from getting hit by a
car by keeping him on-leash or under control. Guard your pup against illness by taking
precautions to keep him healthy. Prevention works much better than any treatment. Be
sure to listen to advice from your veterinarian. PROPER CARE OF YOUR PUP IS
IMPORTANT!
Immediately report these observations to your leader:
Excessive urination, production of only small amounts of urine, production of

unusually colored (dark, cloudy, bloody) or excessively smelly urine, urinary
incontinence while sleeping, or dribbling of urine.
Difficulty "housebreaking" your puppy
Vaginal discharge, other than a yellow to white mucous, which could signify vaginitis.
Vaginitis is considered common. If not symptomatic, just keep the area clean with a
baby wipe.
Diarrhea, unusual stool quality, parasites in/on stool
Poor food or water intake
Vomiting
External parasites: fleas, ticks, lice
Hair loss, bald spots or excessive shedding
"Hot spots", sores or cuts
Lumps in the skin
Injuries or accidents
Lameness of any kind
Listlessness or lack of energy
Squinting, swollen, red or runny eyes
Persistent shaking or tilting of head
Runny nose with colored discharge
Ears that are red, have a discharge or odor
Coughing
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Section 4-2
Emergencies
Excessive sneezing
Abnormal or changed behavior
If you would like more first aid information, a good reference is:
First Aid, Emergency Care for Dogs and Cats
Roger W. Gfeller, DVM; Michael Thomas, DVM
Publisher: Pet Care Books, July 1994
ISBN: 0964463709
Make sure that your puppy receives all of the required vaccinations from
your veterinarian at the required times - in accordance with the
vaccination schedule provided to you by Guide Dogs for the Blind.
Give your puppy his heartworm medication every month on schedule.
Use the flea and tick control products provided by Guide Dogs and maintain your
other pets and your grounds on a parasite control program.
Give only the correct dosages of medications prescribed by your veterinarian for your
puppy.
Use only veterinarian-approved pesticides and only at the prescribed dosages.
Prevent infectious diseases by not exposing young puppies to areas that are visited by
many dogs.
The best veterinary advice regarding injury and illness is: "Use common sense".
The second best advice is: "Let the experts do it." If there is any doubt, call
your leader; call your CFR if you cannot reach your leader, or call your veterinarian. By
all means, do not play doctor and issue your own remedies. Do not use medication
previously prescribed without consulting your vet. Give only medications that are
prescribed for that puppy by a veterinarian and only in the prescribed dosages.
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Section 4-2
Emergencies
4-3 VACCINATIONS
Every puppy needs a scheduled series of vaccinations (shots). The shots your puppy has
already received are written on the front page of his Project Record. Also noted are the
shots he still requires and the dates he needs to receive them.
It is very important that you follow this schedule closely. Even if your veterinarian
suggests a different schedule, please insist that the Guide Dog schedule is followed. We
have determined it to be the most effective schedule for our purposes.
Guide Dog puppies leave our kennels having been given the following vaccinations:
3 weeks - Nemex
5 weeks - DA2PP, Intranasal bordatella, Nemex
8 weeks - DA2PP, Heartgard Plus
When they receive a Guide Dog puppy, raisers are instructed to continue with the
following vaccination schedule:
12 weeks - DA2PP
16 weeks - DA2PP, Rabies
Do not administer coronavirus vaccine, leptospirosis bacterin or Lyme's disease vaccine.
If your veterinarian insists on the administration of one of the vaccinations, please advise
him not to give the injection and to call the GDB Clinic.
Your puppy's first adult Rabies and DA2PP vaccination boosters will be due at
approximately 16 months of age. If these boosters are due more than a month prior to
your puppy's recall date, have the vaccinations administered by your local veterinarian.
It is critical that we receive documentation of any booster vaccines that your puppy
receives prior to recall.
The GDB Vet Clinic is to be notified in the event that a puppy has an allergic reaction to a
vaccination. Raisers may ask to save the vials that their puppys vaccination originated
from or will ask to write down the following information: brand of vaccine (i.e. Ft.
Dodge), components (i.e. distemper, adenovirus, parainfluenza, parvo virus) and the lot
number.
Mark the dates for your puppy's shots on your calendar as a reminder. Also,
let your leader know your puppy's shot schedule (you may want to copy the
front of your Project Record for your leader).
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Vaccinations
Here are a few tips on giving medication:

Pills: Hold the puppy's head back, place the pill on the back of the tongue,
gently push the pill back, and hold his mouth closed until he swallows. When that
happens, he usually will lick his nose.
Liquid: Hold the puppy's head up slightly and pull away the side of the lower lip
corner to make a pocket. Pour the liquid into this pocket and the puppy will
instinctively swallow.
Be gentle, calm and soothing.
Be sure to praise your puppy when you finish.
Please call your leader if you are having trouble.
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Section 4-3
Vaccinations
4-4 FEMALES IN SEASON

The reproductive cycle of ovulation in dogs is identified as being "in-season" or "in-heat."
During this period female dogs ovulate, generating eggs. In-season dogs are capable of
being bred by male dogs, fertilizing the eggs and producing puppies. Spayed dogs do not
come into season.
The foremost rule to always remember is that exceptions to timing, patterns, and
identifying markers are frequent within individual dogs and between dogs. Raisers and
leaders should always be vigilant in watching for signs of the dogs that they raise coming
into, remaining, or perhaps re-entering seasons (see below).
Generally, dogs come into season every six months beginning some time after six months
of age. Dogs, though, may come into season as early as 4 months of age or as late as a
year or more. Cycles may run like clockwork every six months or they may happen more
or less frequently. Dogs may even start a season, appear to go out-of-season, and start
immediately again. This pattern is often referred to as a "split season." One can see the
need for raisers and leaders to continually monitor dogs and not to trust any pattern to
apply to individual dogs. Failing to properly identify the cycle of an individual dog may
lead to an accidental breeding.
A standard season runs for approximately 21 days. The season may be preceded by a
slight swelling of the dog's vulva. The season begins with a bright or dark red discharge
from the dog's vulva. The discharge initially may be no more than a drop. Many females
keep themselves very clean, and there may be no visible blood around the vulvar area.
As the season progresses through the first week or so, the discharge generally increases
and then decreases in volume and color. The vulva can be very enlarged and turgid
during the first week, and then begins to soften. Some dogs may have a very heavy
discharge and swelling; others may show lesser signs. Again, diligence in monitoring all
dogs as individuals is required.
After being in-season for approximately seven to ten days, the amount and color of the
discharge will lighten. The swelling will also lessen. In some dogs the reduction of
swelling and discharge may be so significant that the dog appears to be out of season.
This is not the case. The dog is actually entering her most fertile period when a male can
inseminate her! Extra caution is needed. It is also important to note that sperm can be
viable and capable of impregnating an estrus female dog for as long as 7 days following a
single mating. Therefore, one inattentive moment can lead to an unwanted pregnancy.
As the days pass and the swelling and discharge continue to lighten, the dog is still
breedable. Some dogs are capable of conceiving beyond the twentieth day of season.
Raisers must continually be cautious, following our guidelines for at least 28 days, and
not lessening the required supervision until released by their leader.
Sometimes a female may go through what is known as a silent heat. This is when the
usual physical signs of the heat cycle, the swelling and the bleeding, are not present. You
may still see behavioral changes, including an increased interest from or with other dogs.
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Females in Season
Other behavioral indicators may or may not be present. During and in the time
surrounding a dogs season, there may be a change in overall activity levels, with the
female becoming much more active and busy. The change in behaviors may include
flagging (raising the tail), play bowing or tipping forward, increased barking or whining,
inability to settle or relax, and becoming more destructive. There may be an increase in
level of thirst or appetite, and a change in elimination habits. The female may seem
nervous or more high-strung. These behavioral changes can begin to occur up to three or
four weeks before the physical signs of the heat cycle. More commonly, they occur in the
week before the physical signs begin. In some females, there may be no noticeable
change in behaviors at all. In others, just one or two of those listed. Also, behavioral
changes do not always indicate the onset of the heat cycle. At the beginning of her cycle,
the female may become less tolerant of other dogs approaching or sniffing her. She may
lift her lip, growl, hackle, or even snap at the other dog. Instead of wagging her tail when
other dogs sniff her rear, she may tuck it tightly straight down against her body. This
does not mean she is becoming aggressive. It is a normal behavioral change. She will be
her friendly self once again when her cycle is over. If you suspect a silent heat cycle,
notify your CFR through your leader.
Occasionally, towards the end of the heat cycle or in the weeks following it, the increase
in hormone levels may cause the mammary glands to become active and to produce milk.
Some people call this a false pregnancy. This is not considered abnormal; but again,
please notify your CFR through your leader.
Any sign of recurring discharge or swelling requires additional management by the
prescribed guidelines and must be reported immediately to the club leader who will
speak to your CFR.
Again, please always remember that exceptions to any patterns are frequent and that all
dogs must be managed individually and with caution.
A leader who is uncertain of a dog's reproductive cycle should consult with his/her CFR,
who may recommend a veterinary consult with the Guide Dogs veterinary clinic.
Any female in-season dogs that come into contact with an unaltered male dog or become
loose, lost, or otherwise unsupervised must be reported immediately to the CFR or the
Puppy Raising Department office if the CFR is unavailable.
Boarding of females in season
For a complete description of our Boarding female dogs in-season policy, please see
Policies, forms, and resources section.
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Section 4-4
Females in Season
4-5 SPAY/NEUTER AND HERNIAS

Spay/neuter procedure
There are many factors that go into the decision to spay or neuter some Guide Dog
puppies. We will alter some before placement in your home. We may ask you to have
others altered while you are raising them. Others may be considered for breeding stock
and must be left intact. The majority of dogs that are altered prior to training have been
ruled out as possible breeding stock. Behavior may also be a factor. Only Guide Dogs for
the Blind can make the decision to have a Guide Dog puppy altered.
Guidelines for spay/neutering Guide Dog puppies:
Never spay or neuter a Guide Dog puppy without authorization from Guide Dogs for
the Blind.
You will either receive a letter from Guide Dogs asking you to have your Guide Dog
puppy altered within a certain time frame or you will be told to have the procedure
done by your leader or CFR.
If Guide Dogs authorizes a spay or neuter, the procedure can be done by your own
veterinarian.
Guide Dogs will pay for any pre-authorized altering.
Immediately upon completion of the altering procedure, have your veterinarian return
the spay/neuter certificate to Guide Dogs for the Blind.
Enter the alter date in the monthly report submitted to your leader.
Follow your veterinarians post-operative instructions closely.
Umbilical hernias
Umbilical hernias are holes in the abdominal wall at the site of the umbilical cord. Before
birth, the umbilical cord supplies the growing fetus with nutrients and removes wastes.
At birth, the umbilical cord is cut by the brood bitch or by a kennel assistant, and
subsequently treated with tincture of iodine to inhibit bacterial contamination. The
umbilical cord shrivels up and drops off within a day or two. The site in the abdominal
wall that the cord passed through is called the umbilicus.
Normally, the site closes down shortly after birth. In a few puppies, the site remains
open, and is called an umbilical hernia. If the hernia is large enough for a section of
bowel to pass through it, and become entrapped, it can be problematic. Umbilical
hernias of this size should be closed surgically once the puppy is large enough to
withstand anesthesia and surgery. If the hernia is tiny, too small for a section of bowel
to pass through, then it is simply a cosmetic defect. Sometimes a portion of omentum,
the material padding abdominal organs, passes through the hernia and feels like a mass.
Usually it can be replaced into the abdomen through the hernia by gentle manipulation.
Sometimes the hernia closes, leaving a mass of omentum outside of the abdomen. This
again is only a cosmetic problem, and can be repaired later when the puppy is neutered.
It is not known definitively if umbilical hernias are genetic.
The veterinary clinic would prefer not to put puppies with cosmetic umbilical hernias
through anesthesia and surgery. Do not approve any hernia operation without first
consulting with your CFR, who will consult with a Guide Dogs veterinarian.
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Section 4-5
Spay/Neuter & Hernias
4-6 FLEAS, TICKS AND PARASITES

Flea and tick control
To help you control fleas and all of the problems that come with them, a once-a-month
topical flea preventative is included in the puppy packets. If you live in an area that is
heavily infested with fleas and ticks, you may also be issued an additional tick
preventative. These are very effective products for controlling external parasites. Their
use controls not only the parasites themselves, but also prevents secondary problems
related to fleas and ticks such as tapeworm, Lyme disease, damaged skin and coat, and
obsessive scratching or chewing.
Please make sure that you dispense these products precisely, according to the directions
enclosed with the product. If you have any questions about their use, contact your leader.
You have been supplied with enough topical flea product to last until your dog is 12
months of age. Contact your leader for an additional supply if you run out.
Guide Dogs does not reimburse the cost of any additional flea and tick control including
powders, dips, sprays, or "holistic" parasite control measures. If you have other pets, it's
also important that you maintain them on a parasite control program. This will reduce
risk of infestation.
Heartworm prevention
Guide Dogs provides heartworm preventative in the puppy packet. Whether or not you
live in a heartworm affected area, give your puppy the preventative every month on
schedule. Each raiser receives enough preventive to provide heartworm protection for
the dog up to 14 months of age. If your dog is being recalled for training later than 14
months old, please contact your leader for additional heartworm preventative.
HEARTGARD Plus protocol
The following directions for administering once-a-month heartworm preventative are

provided to ensure that each pup receives the appropriate dose. In addition to these
instructions, you may also receive other individual instructions from Guide Dogs staff
when you receive your pup.
In the packet are two different colored boxes of heartworm preventative, one green box
and one brown box. Different size pups take different size pills (cubes). The green box
has cubes for pups that weigh up to 50 lbs., the brown box has cubes for pups who
weigh 51 lbs. to 100 lbs.
Pups weighing up to 50 lbs. - give one cube from the GREEN box on the first of the month
- even if your puppy weighs less than 26 lbs.
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Fleas/Ticks/Parasites
Pups weighing 51 lbs. to 100 lbs. - give one cube from the BROWN box. If you still have
cubes left in the green box, you can double the dose and give two cubes from the GREEN
box.
Pups weighing more than 100 lbs. - give two cubes from the BROWN box.
Please note that all cubes look the same. The only different is the color of the box, so
please note which color box you are removing the cube from before administering to the
dog.
INSTRUCTIONS
Place cube in feed pan prior to feeding your pup a meal.
If your puppy will not eat the cube, contact your leader.
Effective heartworm prevention is very important to your Guide Dog puppy's health.
Please follow these directions exactly.
All pups on once-a-month heartworm preventative should receive their cube(s) on the
first of every month.
If a pup is going to be boarded ANYWHERE over the first of the month, send the cube
to be administered by their staff.
It is the combined responsibility of the raiser and the leader to make sure that each
puppy in the group receives its preventative on schedule.
If you miss giving the cube on the first of the month, give it as soon as remembered,
then restart the first of the next month on schedule. No heartworm testing is
required. Notify your leader and make a notation on your monthly report.
Two pills from the green box equal one from the brown box.
NEVER, NEVER cut a pill in half.
You can give your puppy more, but never less.
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Section 4-6
Fleas/Ticks/Parasites
5-1 PHILOSOPHY
How to be an effective teacher
Now that you have your puppy home and know how to care for him, you must teach him
which behaviors are appropriate and how to respond to your commands. To be effective,
you need to learn how your puppy thinks.
Dogs have two types of behavior. One is instinctual behavior that is a natural, inherited
behavioral response. The other is learned behavior. Learned behavior can be either
positively reinforced by reward or corrected in order to prevent repetition.
Be the leader of the pack
Nature has provided wild dogs with a strong instinct for pack behavior. Canines that live
in a pack are better suited both for hunting and for defense. Every canine pack has a
ranking order. A ranking order is a ladder of authority that determines how a dog relates
to other members of his pack. At the top of the ranking order is the pack leader. A pack
that is temporarily without a strong leader is in a state of turmoil.
Your family is your dog's pack. Your dog interacts with you and your family members in
the same way that he would with members of a canine pack. To train or cooperatively
live with your dog, you must be the pack leader. The dog may not yield this role to you
easily. He is instinctually programmed to be the pack leader himself if that position is
empty or weak.
Use these rules to help you be an effective leader and to improve your training
skills:
Do not interpret your puppy's behavior in human terms-dogs think differently than
humans do.
Speak in a voice that is confident and calm.
Touch your puppy in a calm and confident manner.
Express confidence in the way you walk as well as other body language.
Maintain a calm and assured demeanor.
Establish firm rules for your puppy's conduct and do not change them.
Do not give in to your puppy when he tries to control you.
Follow through when you give your puppy a command. Make your puppy respond to
all your commands the first time they are given.
Consistently correct stubborn, hyperactive, assertive and aggressive behaviors.
See "3-1 Feeding" in section 3: Caring for your puppy and "6-1 Important behaviors" in
section 6: Training techniques to teach your puppy not to be possessive of his food,
bed, toys, etc.
Praise and reward all appropriate behaviors.
Are you an effective teacher for your puppy?

To be an effective teacher you must:
Be a strong leader
Set examples by your own actions
Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 5: Training principles
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Section 5-1
Philosophy
Be consistent in your methods and techniques

Pattern the behaviors you want your puppy to learn
Teach through effective praise and corrections
Use Guide Dog approved rewards and corrections
Teach all lessons in sequence and one step at a time
Know what your puppy must learn to be a successful guide

(See "6-3 Commands" in section 6: Training techniques for specific procedures to train
your puppy to respond to commands.)
When you give a command, say your puppy's name first. For example, if you want him
to sit you would say "Name, Sit" (name first). When the puppy hears his name, he
should be ready to perform a task for you.
Be sure that you give every command only once. Make your puppy perform the task
on that first command. Two or more commands are confusing.
Give one command for one action. For example, "Name, Sit", not "Name, Sit Down."
Make sure the puppy has completed the first command before you give a second
command.
Praise your puppy every time he does what you have commanded.
Say "Good boy/girl," not "Good sit."
Release your puppy from a command with the OK release word, not by praising him.
There are many times a guide must be praised for making the right decision, but
must continue working without being released.
Use the proper tone of voice
Your tone of voice can influence your puppy's behavior and his response to
commands.
All commands should be given clearly and with confidence.
Do not shout your commands.
A whispered or tentative command does nothing to encourage response.
If you want the puppy to be more animated or confident in an exercise, animate your
praise. You should sound delighted when he complies.
Calm your excited puppy and lower his level of energy or anxiety by speaking slowly
and in a calm voice.
Commands such as Sit, Down, and Stay should be said with a degree of authority and
assertiveness.
Sit, Down, and Stay may need a calm, slow voice if the puppy is excitable.
Say Let's go in an encouraging but not pleading tone of voice.
Say Come in a happy, eager voice, encouraging the dog to come to you.
Say That's enough in either a manner that relays authority or one that relays
calmness, or sometimes a mixture of both.
Different ages and temperaments of dogs respond differently to different tones.
Experiment with different tones to see which tone your puppy responds to best.
Young puppies generally respond better when calm and/or encouraging voices are
used.
Older puppies and mature dogs usually require a more commanding voice.
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Section 5-1
Philosophy
Dogs with soft temperaments generally require soft voices.

Bolder dogs are often better controlled with stronger voices.
Train your puppy to respond to commands in a timely manner
Encourage thinking responses. An unthinking (reflex) is discouraged in Guide Dogs.

Guides need to be thinking animals that evaluate situations and make choices about
how they should respond.
Learn to read your dog. There is a fine line between a dog that is waiting or reacting
slowly because he is making a decision and a dog that is being slow out of defiance. It
is up to you to know the difference.
Speed up stubborn responses by correcting for noncompliance and then praising
generously when he does comply
Praise generously and consistently
No command is effective unless followed by praise for successful compliance.

Guide Dogs are not only working animals, but also trusting and trusted companions.
Praise is one of the most essential ingredients in the recipe of producing a good
Guide Dog.
A primary rule in teaching a dog is: never give a command you cannot
enforce. That means you must have a physical means of controlling the
dog with your hands, a leash, a dragline or a tie-down.
Try to anticipate what your puppy is going to do so you can be prepared
to follow through on your commands.
Pattern desired behaviors

Patterning is learning appropriate behaviors through repetition and is complete only
when the behavior is ingrained. The best way to pattern behavior is through practice.
Complete patterning takes at least 30 days of consistent, successful practice and may
take much longer for some puppies.
How to pattern behaviors you want your puppy to learn
Schedule several practice sessions throughout each day.

Keep practice sessions short, frequent and successful with lots of praise.
When you practice, be consistent in your expectations of the puppy's behaviors.
Randomly practice individual exercises throughout the day between scheduled
lessons.
Reward all correct behavior in your lessons - scheduled or random.
Reward all correct spontaneous behavior such as when your puppy comes and sits
calmly by your side.
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Section 5-1
Philosophy
Pattern your training habits
People, too, learn through patterning. Pattern your own behaviors and skills as a trainer
through practicing. Have someone observe you as you train. That way, you can learn
what you are doing that needs to be changed and then build a good training pattern.
Teach lessons one step at a time
Not all puppies are the same - some may develop faster than others. Since all puppies
have different strengths and weaknesses, they all need to be taught at the pace that suits
them best.
All lessons, training and socializing should be done in progressive steps and at a pace
that your particular puppy can readily accept and learn.
Move on to the next step of a lesson only after the puppy has been successful with
the first step and readily accepts what is being asked of him.
Example: When you are teaching a puppy how to sit on command, go from handplacing the sit (one hand pulling up on the collar and one hand tucking the rear
under) to a sit 'reminder' (one hand pulling up on the collar and one hand lightly
touching the rear).
Teach only one behavior at a time.
Trying to teach more than one behavior at a time is confusing and will lead to the
puppys failure to learn either behavior.
Teach lessons in sequence
Teach behaviors and lessons by starting lessons at the beginning of a teaching

sequence so you can ensure that the puppy will successfully be able to accomplish
what you are asking him to do.
Example: When you are teaching a puppy how to sit on command, start by hand
placing him into position. If you start by telling him to sit without putting him
into position, you may teach him to ignore the command because he doesn't
understand what is being asked of him.
Example: When you are teaching a puppy how to relieve on command, start by
saying the Do your business command as he starts to relieve, not before or after.
That way he associates the command with the action.
Move to the next step in the sequence only when the puppy is consistently
responding in the correct way.
Move to the next step in the sequence only when the puppy is completely calm and
relaxed with the step you have been working on.
Move back a step in the sequence if you are having any problems getting your puppy
to understand the step you are trying to teach.
How a dog learns

A dog is an instinctual animal whose behaviors are, to a large degree, influenced by an
inherited pattern of behaviors.
A dog learns by a trial-and-error system in which he samples different behaviors.
If a behavior is met with a favorable or positive reward, the dog will continue the
behavior, seeking the reward.
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Section 5-1
Philosophy
Real-life example: A dog sticks its head into the garbage can and is rewarded by
finding a tasty treat. The dog will continue sticking its head in the garbage can
looking for the treat.
Training example: The dog acts in an uncontrollable manner and makes its
handler give up. The dog learns to act uncontrollably for the reward of getting its
own way and avoiding discipline.
Any behavior that is met by a reward teaches the dog to repeat the behavior.
Real-life example: Your puppy sits down for a moment while you are preparing to
give him his dinner. You praise him and immediately feed him. He learns that
behaving in a quiet, controlled manner gets him his dinner.
Training example: You quietly praise your puppy every time he sits when you tell
him. He will learn to sit on command in many different situations because you
have consistently taught him that it is pleasant to respond to your commands.
He will learn to avoid behaviors that are met by a negative response or correction.
Real-life example: A dog accidentally runs into the fence while playing. It will do so
only a time or two before it learns not to run into the fence.
Training example: A dog that lunges toward food is corrected with a snap of the
collar every time he does so. He will soon learn to restrain himself.
Time corrections to coincide with the start of any undesired behavior.
Well-timed corrections and rewards are needed to teach your puppy
Dogs learn by rewards and corrections that are instantaneous.

Real life example: A dog sticks his head in the garbage because he gets the treat
immediately.
Real life example: A dog learns not to run into the fence because it stops him
instantly. If he did not feel the contact with the fence for five seconds after he
made contact, he would continue running into the fence. He would never
understand the connection between the discomfort and the fence.
Correct or reward a dog's behaviors as soon as they occur. When correcting or
praising your dog, remember why he sticks his head in the garbage can and why he
does not run into the fence.
Training example: You cannot correct your dog for "doing his business" on the
carpet five minutes after he had the accident. He will not understand why he is
being corrected.
Training example: A puppy mouths your hand. The instant the puppy places his
mouth around your hand, you snap his collar. The puppy will stop mouthing you.
But, if you delay your corrections just a second or two after he makes contact on
your skin, the puppy will not understand why you are snapping his collar.
Rewards for a good behavior must be as closely timed to the good behavior as
corrections are timed to bad behavior.
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Section 5-1
Philosophy
Training example: You tell a dog to sit and he does so. Praise is most effective if it
is done as soon as his bottom touches the ground. If you delay telling him that he
is a "Good dog," he will not understand what action you are praising.
Never correct behavior such as a housebreaking accident or destructive chewing if
you did not see him do it. Dogs do not understand what they are being corrected for
after they have done it.
Dogs do not understand being corrected with the "presentation of evidence." The
"guilty" look is actually a submission gesture or an anxiety response because he
realizes that you are upset with him. He becomes anxious (looks guilty) because he
considers you to be his pack leader and he has a strong need to please the pack
leader and stay in your good graces.
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Section 5-1
Philosophy
5-2 REWARDS
Reward and correct consistently
For a dog to learn to avoid a behavior, he must be corrected consistently.

For a dog to learn to perform a behavior, he must be rewarded consistently.
Praise is effective only if it is repeated every time the behavior is performed.
Behaviors that are corrected inconsistently may be repeated because the puppy can't
predict which time he will be corrected and which time he will escape correction.
Training example: Your puppy mouths you, has an accident in the house, jumps
on you, chews things up or acts out other inappropriate behavior. You instantly
correct him every time. He will learn that these behaviors should be avoided.
Be prepared
When your dog does something inappropriate, often he catches you by surprise when
you are not ready to deal with him.
Learn to anticipate his inappropriate behaviors.
Training example: Your puppy jumps on you every time you go out into the back
yard. Be ready for him with a plan of action. Catch him the instant he begins to
leap, correct him with the collar, and make him sit. Praise him as soon as he sits. If
he starts to jump, do the whole exercise over and over again until he responds
correctly.
Training example: Your puppy whines every time your friends come over. Be
prepared for it. Develop a plan of action. Put him on a tie-down right next to you.
Every time he whines, correct him with the collar and praise him when he is quiet.
Try to develop a plan to deal with inappropriate behaviors before they happen.
Trust your dog's intelligence
Dogs are intelligent animals.

They learn rapidly when corrections and rewards are given consistently and
immediately.
Your Guide Dog puppy has been bred to be even more responsive to instruction than
most dogs.
Follow the techniques prescribed above and your puppy will quickly grasp your
lessons.
Make sure you are teaching your puppy what you intend to teach him!
Do not repeat your command if you think the puppy does not understand you the
first time.
Repeating a command before making the puppy do the exercise will teach him to
ignore you the first time you speak.
Do not repeat your command if you think the puppy did not hear you the first time.
Dogs have exceptional hearing.
Your puppy hears you even if he pretends he cannot.
Repeating the command more loudly before making the puppy do the exercise
teaches him that he does not have to obey until you shout.
Make the puppy do every command you give him.
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Section 5-2
Rewards
Letting the puppy "skip" commands teaches him that he needs to mind only when
he wants to.
Make the puppy do each exercise correctly.
Letting the puppy do exercises poorly puts him in the position of control where he
is deciding how to obey.
Consistently praise all good behaviors.
A puppy needs to know every time he does something correctly so that he can
repeat the good behavior again to please you.
Approved rewards
Effective praise is the method of choice for rewarding a Guide Dog puppy. Both verbal
praise and the physical praise of petting, stroking or hugging, when correctly used, can
be a strong motivator to teach, reinforce or change behavior. To be effective, you need to
learn these simple guidelines:
Reward is as important - or even more important - than the corrections you use.
Remember that one of the ways a dog learns is through reward. It takes the correct
use of praise to produce a well-balanced, happy, intelligent Guide Dog.
Work as hard on praise as you do on corrections. Training must be balanced;
emphasizing correction over praise will make the puppy less than happy in his work.
Praise him every time he does something right, whether he is following a command,
or performing an appropriate behavior of his own accord (for example, laying quietly
at your side in a public setting). This will make it easier for your puppy to learn these
behaviors when he is formally instructed by the Guide Dog trainers.
Praise in an appropriate tone of voice.
Praise eagerly and sweetly, sometimes combining it with pats, strokes and hugs,
and other times just using your voice. A cool pat will not motivate him to do what
you want. An unemotional mutter of "good dog" is not encouraging.
Use your voice in an encouraging tone. An enthusiastic "GOOD DOG!" or a
soothing, loving "Gooooood doooog..." will be most effective.
Enthusiastic praise doesn't mean loud praise. It is your tone and inflection that is
important. Loud praise will overly stimulate excitable puppies.
Use praise to reinforce behaviors that you are trying to teach. By praising any attempt
to respond, you encourage the puppy to try harder to earn your praise.
After he begins to understand what you want, praise only the best performances. This
will motivate him to try harder to earn your praise.
Time your praise to occur either during or immediately after the behavior you want to
reinforce. The longer the time between the behavior and the praise, the less effective
it will be. A puppy has an extremely short attention span. A delay as short as three
seconds between the behavior and the praise can be too long.
Vary the intensity of your praise to fit the degree of effort made by the puppy. When
the puppy acts uncertain that he made the correct choice of behavior, give high
intensity, enthusiastic (not loud) praise to assure him that he made the right choice.
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Section 5-2
Rewards
Consistency is the key to success!

Practice allows you to consistently correct or reward actions to pattern
behaviors.
Unacceptable rewards
Guide Dog puppies may not be hand-fed or receive treats as a reward for good
behavior.
Guide Dog puppies should not be rewarded or "induced" to do behaviors with the
"promise" of a toy when they complete a desired action.
Specific exceptions for specific dogs may be made to the above guidelines by a
recommendation from the director of the Puppy Raising Department.
Having trouble?
If your puppy is having trouble understanding what is expected of him, the answer
often lies in your technique.
Developing better skills may help you improve your puppy.
Practice will develop you as a trainer.
Contact your leader for advice. If more assistance is needed, your leader will contact
your CFR.
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Section 5-2
Rewards
5-3 CORRECTIONS
How and when to correct your puppy
Correction is a difficult issue for most people. We all love animals and have no desire to
do anything to make them unhappy. At times, this makes it difficult for us to correct
them even when it is needed.
As with people, dogs learn to be responsible through the contrast between rewards and
corrections. It is the correction you provide that will teach your puppy that there is a
consequence for unacceptable behavior. It is this consequence, plus your generous praise
for correct behaviors, that will motivate him to change his unacceptable behavior.
There is a major difference, however, between people and dogs. People speak a language.
You can explain to a person why you are upset and what he has done to make you upset.
You can then request his cooperation in changing his behavior. Dogs do not understand
language. While they can be conditioned to respond to command words and trained to
respond appropriately to situations, they are incapable of understanding spoken
explanations.
You must present your dog with a physical consequence for his inappropriate actions in
order for him to understand that he has done something that is unacceptable. The
contrast between pleasant rewards and corrections teaches him to respond
appropriately. Correction does NOT mean physical abuse or beating. There is no
justification for physical abuse and it is not an effective method of training. A frightened
puppy is not able to think clearly or respond appropriately. Physical abuse of a puppy is
cause for immediate removal from the raiser's home.
One of your most difficult jobs as a Guide Dog puppy raiser will be to learn how to gauge
your puppy's emotional state and temperament. You will be able to correct and motivate
him effectively only when you learn how to tell what he is feeling. The state of your
puppy's emotions will affect how you should correct him. There will be times when you
will need to correct very lightly; other times you will need to correct more firmly in order
to change a very persistent behavior, or to affect him when he is feeling strong emotions,
and other times you will need to motivate with praise.
The only acceptable Guide Dog corrections are leash and collar corrections.
How to do a leash and collar correction

The leash and collar correction is administered by giving a quick pop with the leash.
Correctly delivered, the leash and collar correction does not hurt or frighten the dog, but
merely distracts him from concentrating on an unacceptable behavior. It reorients his
attention to you.
The leash always must be loose to start a correction and loosened immediately after
you have completed the correction.
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Section 5-3
Corrections
Snap the leash quickly and then just as quickly return the leash to its slack position.
HOLDING THE LEASH TIGHTLY INSTEAD OF QUICKLY RETURNING THE SLACK WILL
INCREASE THE PUPPY'S RESISTANCE and decrease the effectiveness of the correction.
If the puppy is moving fast or if he is a large, strong adolescent, extend your arm
toward the dog before snapping it backward in order to create enough slack to make
an effective correction.
When the correction is correctly executed, you will feel a jolt through the leash. This
jolt is what stops the unacceptable behavior and gets his attention.
If the puppy does not change his behavior when you correct him, you know that you
were ineffective in your delivery or timing. Your goal is to stop the behavior with only
one correction.
Ineffective corrections condition your puppy to ignore you and to resist your
leadership.
Headcollars, discussed in "2-4 Equipment (and how to use it)" in section 2: Preparing for
puppy raising, are halter-type training tools used to guide or "steer" the dog, not to
correct. Some puppies may be issued with this training tool if they are not responding
appropriately to your leash and collar corrections. Never use the leash and collar
correction techniques just described with a headcollar.
An effective correction stops the inappropriate behavior after only one

correction. It does so without making the dog fearful. Your job is to ask
yourself, "Did he stop his behavior after one correction?" If he stopped, was
he looking at you respectfully or does he appear afraid?
Effectively correcting your puppy
The goal of an effective correction is to stop the inappropriate behavior with ONE
correction. If it takes you more than one correction to stop the puppy from
continuing with the behavior, you either did not correct properly, or you were not
firm enough.
Corrections should be administered in a controlled manner. When you lose your
temper, your puppy has succeeded in emotionally manipulating you by changing your
emotional state. This is a passive form of domination that enables him to challenge
your leadership.
For optimum results, use just enough force to affect your puppy without frightening
him. He should appear respectful, not scared.
Always follow corrections that change his behavior with praise. That is the only way
you will successfully be able to motivate your puppy to change his behavior.
Always wait until your puppy has changed his behavior before praising after a
correction. For example, did he stop trying to chase the cat or are you just praising
him automatically because you just corrected him?
Never snub your puppy after a correction by being angry or isolating him from you
emotionally. His attention span is very short and he will not understand why you are
still correcting him.
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Section 5-3
Corrections
Never bluff or threaten a correction. Your puppy needs to know that you are an
effective leader who always carries through with correction when it is needed.
NEVER strike your puppy. This will produce a hand-shy dog and/or cause other
personality problems.
The principles of effective leash and collar corrections
Appropriately administered and effective leash and collar corrections start and end
on a loose leash. They are the same when done with either a standard collar or a
training collar.
Proper, effective and humane corrections are quick, sharp pops of the collar
administered with the leash. Effective corrections are not steady, strangling pulls.
Time your corrections to occur as the misbehavior is occurring or about to occur.
Leash and collar snaps should be gauged to the puppy's size, emotional state and
body sensitivity.
Little dogs usually need little corrections.
Big dogs usually need bigger corrections.
Little dogs with tough necks may need bigger corrections.
Big dogs with sensitive necks may need little corrections.
Leash and collar corrections must be gauged to the severity of the misbehavior.
Mild acts of undesired behavior should get mild corrections.
Big acts of misbehavior should get bigger corrections.
Leash and collar corrections must vary to fit the puppy's size, age and degree of
emotional commitment to the behavior.
A small, young puppy that is attempting an undesirable behavior for the first time
will need just a light tug on the leash.
An adolescent or young adult dog that is determinedly repeating a behavior he
knows is unacceptable will need a considerably stronger correction.
If your puppy did not respond to your first leash and collar correction, you should
use a second correction. This correction should be firmer (maybe much firmer) than
the first.
It's important that you learn your puppy's strength, willingness and possible
resistance. Study which corrections are effective and how to duplicate them.
Reward is as important, if not more so, than the correction. Please work as
hard on praise as you do on corrections. Poor praisers are poor trainers.
Unacceptable corrections
The following types of corrections are not permitted to be used in the training of
Guide Dog puppies:
hitting
kicking
kneeing
choking
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Section 5-3
Corrections
shaking the puppy or its crate

the "Alpha roll" (rolling a puppy over on his back and holding him there until he
"submits")
other types of physically administered corrections using hands, legs, or objects.
Also not permitted by Guide Dogs for the Blind are corrections that involve:
electrical shocks
throwing of objects
use of unapproved noise to startle the pup or stop behaviors
Use of unacceptable corrections can result in the immediate removal of the

Guide Dog puppy from a raiser's home.
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Section 5-3
Corrections
5-4 KNOW ABOUT NO

Guide Dogs has found that training is more effectively accomplished when positive
interactions are the focus of training. All communication with your puppy should avoid
negativity. It's very important to be positive and clear cut. That is why it is very
important that the excessive or ineffective use of correcting words such as "No! Don't!"
or "Stop!" be avoided.
Guide Dogs recognizes that a correctly used "no" can be a very helpful tool. However,
"no" and other negative terms are frequently used ineffectively, excessively or
inappropriately. The loud or repetitive use of "no" gives the public a negative
impression. The public should be hearing you say "Good dog." Hearing "no" encourages
them to believe that your puppy is out of control. If they are hearing praise instead of
verbal correction, the public will have a positive view of you and Guide Dogs for the
Blind. Using the following guidelines will ensure that you are teaching and using "no"
correctly.
Guidelines for teaching "no":
"No" should be deliberately taught, not used as an attempt to correct your puppy
when he is out of reach.
When using "no," it should always be used in conjunction with either a leash and
collar or a dragline correction.
When you use "no," say it either just before or just AS you leash and collar correct.
The timing is very important. Your puppy should feel the leash and collar correction
at the instant that he hears the "no" command. "No" should never come after the
correction.
"No" should be said QUIETLY (not whispered or shouted), but firmly and seriously.
"No" should not be repeated for the same inappropriate behavior. Remember your
goal! Your puppy should stop inappropriate behavior with just ONE correction. If
your "no" did not stop the puppy's behavior, repeating the "no" will just teach him to
ignore you.
Never say "no, no, no!" Repetitions teach your puppy that words have no meaning. He
learns to tune you out and ignore you.
An effective "no" (puppy immediately stops the inappropriate behavior) should always
be followed with PRAISE.
Avoid the use of "no" in public settings - instead, just use a leash and collar
correction.
If "no" has been effectively taught, it may save your puppy's life in an emergency. This is
one circumstance when using "no" is warranted. For example, a stern "no" may stop a
loose pup from crossing a busy street. In such a case, you should use whatever tools you
need to stop and protect your loose puppy.
An ineffective "no" that is used as a substitute for a needed leash correction teaches your
puppy to ignore commands. Even more detrimental is the use of repeated "no"s or using
"no" to bluff or threaten a puppy.
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Section 5-4
Know about No
6-1 IMPORTANT BEHAVIORS

In 2-5 Your puppys arrival in section 2: Preparing for puppy raising, we outlined the
behaviors necessary for a dog to become a successful guide. In this section, we will
define various behaviors and go over ways to teach your pup good manners around
people, food, and other animals, in the home and in public.
While training your Guide Dog puppy, you may encounter some behaviors that are
inappropriate. Even though you may feel that the behaviors are "normal" for a pet
puppy, they may need to be corrected in order to help the puppy reach the goal of
becoming a guide.
Behaviors to report to your leader
Nibbling, mouthing, nipping, grabbing, snapping, biting, hackling, posturing, lunging,

slinking, cowering, soliciting people, submissive or excited urinating, mounting of
people or objects, growling
Lunging on-leash, pulling on-leash, holding leash in mouth, tripping you while onleash, destructive chewing, picking up objects, carrying objects
Stealing food, foraging (searching) for food, "scarfing" food off the floor, possessive
behaviors (in relation to food, toys, people, pets, space)
Car sickness, chasing cars, jumping on people, counters, furniture and doors,
excessive barking or whining, charging through doors, barking at people, dogs, noises
and objects, predatory behavior toward other animals, distraction/obsessions with
dogs, aggression/submission to dogs, self destructive chewing or licking of body
parts, excessive tail-chasing, digging, chasing lights or shadows
By quickly alerting your leader to any of your puppy's questionable behaviors, you may
help find an answer to a problem that otherwise could become difficult or impossible to
change if left until the puppy is older.
Descriptions of common inappropriate oral behaviors

Nibbling - The puppy uses his front teeth to repeatedly take tiny "bites" as in "flea
biting." This usually starts as a grooming activity early in life while the puppy is still
with its littermates.
Mouthing - Gently (though sometimes not so gently) taking a person's hand or arm
in the mouth. Sometimes accompanied by a "chewing" motion. This is frequently done
while being groomed or played with, but also sometimes is used as a greeting
behavior.
Nipping - Taking one or more "small bites" with the front teeth. This behavior can be
exhibited when the pup is feeling playful, fearful or aggressive.
Grabbing - Reaching out and taking hold of a piece of clothing, fingers, a hand or
arm of a human, or an ear, the side of the face or the tail of another animal.
Snapping - Biting at a person, dog or object without making physical contact with
the teeth. It may or may not be accompanied by some form of vocalization like
growling or barking. Frequently the sound of the teeth closing rapidly can be heard.
Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques
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Important Behaviors
Biting - Quickly using his teeth in a forceful, unpleasant and hurtful way. Most
actual bites (if the teeth connect) either bruise or break the skin of the person or dog
being bitten.
Descriptions of other common inappropriate behaviors

Hackling - The lifting of the fur that grows on the back of the neck and upper back.
This is an involuntary action that can occur for many reasons such as excitement,
anxiety or aggressive intent.
Posturing - Eyes "lock" or "hard stare" at another dog or person. The front legs and
neck become stiff and hackles rise along the back from the base of the neck towards
the tail. The tail sticks straight out or rises above the back, sometimes wagging
slightly.
Lunging - The puppy moves rapidly toward another dog, person or object, usually
dragging its handler with it. This behavior is often not aggressive in intent, but is an
indication that the puppy has not yet learned to look to its handler for direction when
it encounters distractions.
Slinking - The puppy walks with its rear end (or the whole body) lowered toward the
ground. Usually the tail also is clamped to the body or between the legs.
Cowering - An attempt to avoid a person, dog or thing by drawing away or hiding
behind someone or thing. May be accompanied by trembling or vocalization like
whining or growling.
Soliciting - Excessive attention on people and desire to interact with people.
Frequently coupled with mouthing, licking or jumping on people (even if the puppy
does not know the person).
Submissive urinating - The release of urine by a puppy when it is feeling anxious,
fearful or attempting to show that it acknowledges the dominance of a person or
another dog. This is a very common behavior for many puppies that should not be
acknowledged or punished in any way. Some puppies do this when touched, others
only do so if talked to or corrected sternly.
Descriptions of common inappropriate attitudes

Aggression - Behavior that is usually characterized by intent to harm another dog or
a person. Most truly aggressive dogs or pups will bite in certain circumstances. Many
people misuse this term when they really are referring to dominant or assertive
behavior.
Assertiveness - Behavior that is usually characterized by attempts by the puppy to
pull hard on the leash or otherwise act in a very confident, "pushy" manner. Most
"assertive" dogs or pups believe that they are (or should be) dominant over their
handler.
Dominance - An attitude held by the puppy that is characterized by a belief that it is
in charge or should be in charge of other people or dogs. The dominant dog or pup
believes it should have the right to receive attention when it craves it and to refuse
attention when it doesn't want to interact. The pup also usually believes that it has
the right to possess toys, eat first and sleep or lie wherever it wants. Dominant dogs
or puppies may, at times, exhibit aggressive behavior if they feel that a person or dog
has not appropriately acknowledged their dominance.
Insecurity - An attitude characterized by anxiety, fear or lack of confidence.
Insecure dogs or pups may sometimes exhibit "aggressive" behavior because they are
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Important Behaviors
fearful and trying to drive away the thing that they fear. This particularly applies to
their interactions with other dogs and may initially be seen as hackling, growling or
barking.
Fearfulness - An attitude characterized by strong anxiety and insecurity. Most
fearful dogs or pups will exhibit trembling, whining, slinking, cowering or insecure
hackling at one time or another.
Submissiveness - An attitude characterized by a desire to please the individual or
dog that they consider to be dominant or in charge. Submissive dogs or puppies may
sometimes act in an insecure or fearful manner if they do not feel that the individual,
or dog, that they are with, is exhibiting adequate leadership, or, if a person or dog
interacts with them in a highly dominant manner.
Essential behaviors
As part of teaching your puppy good house manners and socializing him, there are a
number of essential behaviors he needs to learn. Once your pup learns to: stay alone;
exhibit self-control; ignore distractions; behave around other people, dogs or animals;
trust; and not have obsessions; you are well on your way to preparing a pup to become a
successful guide.
Teach your puppy to stay alone
Goal: The puppy is confident, quiet and calm when left alone. He is not destructive to
himself or the environment.
Are you ready to try to leave your puppy alone? A person with a visual impairment has
times when he needs to do so. Therefore it's important that you teach your puppy to stay
by himself for at least short periods of time.
Left alone before he is ready for the responsibility, he may:
Whine, bark or howl
Chew things up
Get in the garbage
Dig
Pull things off of tables
Climb on furniture
Scratch up doors and walls
Push through screens
Smash through windows
Hurt himself
Knock you down when you come home
First - prepare your puppy to learn to stay home alone
Before you expect good behavior when you're not with him, be sure your puppy
knows the rules when you're with him.
Practice, pattern and perfect all the house manner behaviors when you are home
with the puppy (see "Good house manners" later in this section).
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Important Behaviors
Give him experience on his tie-down, but remember to do this only when you are
present (see "2-4 Equipment (and how to use it)" in section 2: Preparing for puppy
raising).
Give him experience by himself in his crate with you present or gone.
Leave him in a room behind a closed door for short periods then longer periods.
After he has learned to be calm and dependably good with you present:
Make sure that he is physically comfortable, with a full tummy, a drink of water and a
relieving break before you leave.
Give him some physical and mental exercise (quiet, controlled play or the puppy
handling exercises) before you leave.
Make sure that he has calmed back down before you leave.
Remove all dangerous articles and situations - puppy-proof your house.
Check all doors for security.
Use the following guidelines to actually teach him to stay alone
Closely monitor the puppy's behavior and return quickly enough to ensure success.
Start with only a minute or two where you can peek at him through a window.
Return calmly and quietly, and praise his good behavior.
Correct him for being destructive or having an accident only if you catch him in
the act.
Put the puppy in a chew-proof environment (crate or kennel) whenever he cannot be
monitored.
Tie-downs are to be used only if the puppy can be directly monitored.
Anything left with a young puppy must be on our list of approved toys and must
be used in compliance with our Puppy toy and play policies (see Policies, forms
and resources section.)
He's only "home alone" when he is NOT with other dogs.
Your puppy could be injured accidentally during unsupervised play with other
dogs.
He needs to learn to be self-sufficient and not dependent on another dog. Most
people with visual impairments, who have a Guide Dog, do not have another dog
at home to keep their guide company.
Teach your puppy to cope with distractions
Goal: Remember your puppy's ultimate purpose - to help a person with visual
impairments. Guides encounter all sorts of distractions as they go through the day. A
Guide Dog puppy needs to learn to behave appropriately all the time, not just when he
feels like it.
Training a dog when it is distracted is much more difficult than training a dog when you
are by yourself with no disturbances. When your puppy is distracted by something, he
tends to focus on the distraction, rather than on you or your requests.
Common distractions are: objects, environments, people, other animals, scents and
sounds. Your puppy may respond to distractions in many different ways. He might get
excited, nervous, fearful or even aggressive. Your job is to learn to read your puppy to
determine how he responds to distractions. Usually, an animal is more disturbed by a
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Important Behaviors
new distraction. After repeated exposure to a distraction, the pup begins to regard it as
commonplace.
Gradually expose your puppy to distractions
As stated in "5-1 Philosophy" in section 5: Training principles, do not put your puppy in a
situation that you and he are not ready to cope with calmly.
Approach the distraction slowly.
If necessary, let the puppy observe the distraction from a distance.
Do not approach the distraction until the puppy relaxes.
When approaching the distraction, do so a step at a time.
Do not advance until the puppy calms.
Distractions are not excuses for poor behavior
In a distracting situation, make your puppy behave the same way he does when he is
not exposed to a distraction. Distractions are good training tools, NOT an excuse for
misbehavior.
If a situation is too difficult for him, back out of it and approach it more slowly or
leave it for another day.
Do not force him to approach the distraction.
If your puppy is not behaving, it's important to give him something to do that he
knows (such as Sit).
If that doesn't work, remove him from the situation so he can't repeat his misbehavior
and start making it a habit.
If he is not ready for the situation, take him out of it, partially or totally, trying
whenever possible to leave on a success.
Distractions as training tools
Seek out distractions that your puppy can handle.

Make the pup behave and do his exercises in the presence of the distractions.
Obeying when he does not want to obey will teach your puppy self-control and enable
him to become consistent in his behaviors wherever he goes and whenever he
encounters distractions.
Work on one distraction at a time
Distractions that combine two stimuli at one time (such as strange looking and noisy
or moving and noisy) are particularly difficult for any dog to cope with.
Try to work on one stimulus distraction (just strange looking--doesn't make noises or
move) when you are selecting new distractions to work around.
After your puppy adjusts to one aspect, then you can add something new to the
picture, like noise or movement.
When you go to the bus depot for the first time, go when all the buses are parked
and the puppy can just look.
If he is anxious about the vacuum cleaner, make sure it is turned off and
stationary before you encourage the puppy to accompany you as you look at it,
touch it and even talk to it.
Teach your puppy self control
Goal: The puppy is able to exhibit self-control in exciting, new or different situations
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A Guide Dog puppy needs to learn a great deal of self-control. By communicating clearly
with your puppy and by showing him that you are an effective leader, your puppy will
learn how to control himself.
Control your Guide Dog puppy by communicating clearly
Use effective praise.

Verbal praise is very important when you are working and walking with him
whenever he is behaving appropriately.
Use verbal and/or physical praise (patting, stroking, hugging) when you are at a
standstill.
Adjust your level of praise to get better control.
* A lethargic or resistant pup is better motivated with stimulating praise.
* An excitable puppy is better controlled with quiet praise.
Praise OFTEN for good behavior.
Praise gives your puppy a reason to please you!
Keep the leash and collar loose unless you are administering a correction.
There should be no pressure on the collar unless you are giving a correction.
Tightening the leash will increase your puppy's level of distraction.
Concentrate on keeping a LOOSE LEASH at all times.
Transmit to your puppy that you are in control.
Move slowly with an excitable pup to get more control.
Be deliberate in your actions when handling a puppy.
Relay control through a quiet, calm voice.
Relay control through slow, deliberate hands.
Practice controlling your pup in ever more distracting circumstances.
Be persistent in your efforts to achieve control.
Give effective corrections for the size and temperament of your puppy.
Be consistent.
Watch your puppy. Good handling is anticipating what your pup will do.
Try to be aware of what he is doing.
Try to be aware of what he may be about to do.
Try to identify what things distract or excite your puppy.
Regularly work on those areas.
It's important to be persistent and praise all signs of improvement.
Correct inappropriate behavior as soon as it begins.
The longer you wait before you correct a behavior, the harder it is to stop the
unwanted behavior.
Remember to try and anticipate what he will do, so you can be prepared to correct
as soon as he starts the inappropriate behavior.
The exercises outlined in upcoming section 6-3 Commands, when practiced and
performed properly, will help give you control that will carry over as the pup matures.
The young puppy handling exercises are especially effective.
Puppy handling exercises will help you achieve control of your puppy when
started early and practiced at least once daily (excitable pups may need
several sessions per day).
calming sit with body handling

Lay-over
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Stand
Also, review "3-4 Exercise and Play" in section 3: Caring for your puppy.
Teach your puppy self control around other dogs
Goal: The puppy is able to interact appropriately with other dogs.

It is extremely important for a Guide Dog to be more interested in people than he is in
dogs. He must be taught to ignore other dogs. Even more importantly, he must learn to
view other dogs in a neutral manner, not responding to them with aggression or
excessive interest.
The following guidelines have been developed to help you to teach your puppy
appropriate attitudes toward other dogs. They will also help to protect your Guide Dog
puppy from being injured (even accidentally in play) by other dogs.
If you already have one or more dogs in your home, it's important to protect
your Guide Dog puppy from learning inappropriate interactions from those
dogs or being injured by them.
Guide Dog puppies are not placed in homes that have overly excitable or otherwise
inappropriate dogs. See Reasons for placing or retaining a puppy in the home in the
Policies, forms and resources section for further information.
Closely supervise your puppy when he is with other dogs. Unsupervised interactions
with other dogs are prime causes of accidents and injuries to growing Guide Dog
puppies.
NEVER leave your puppy alone with other dogs in the house or yard.
Be sure to enforce Guide Dog puppy rules and instructions with your Guide Dog
puppy, even though you manage your other dogs according to different rules.
Do not let your Guide Dog puppy interact in inappropriate ways with your other dogs
(such as overly rough play and chase games through the house). Intense play and
prolonged roughhousing with other dogs will increase your Guide Dog puppy's
attraction to other dogs and his desire to bond with them.
General rules about dog-to-dog interactions
When your puppy is on-leash, never permit him to initiate contact with another dog
without your permission.
If you want to permit your puppy to interact with another dog, first release him with
an OK command before permitting him to visit.
Remember to supervise your pup's interactions with other dogs. Not all dogs like each
other.
Concentrate on keeping the leash loose when other dogs are present.
Leash and collar correct him if he tries to lunge toward other dogs.
Separate the dogs if they begin to play rough; dog-to-dog interaction should be calm.
If he becomes too excited after interacting with another dog, move him away and
practice control exercises like a sit or down stay.
If your puppy is very distracted by other dogs:
Practice doing calming sits from a distance, gradually moving closer as he shows
that he can control himself.
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When you are in close proximity to other dogs and cannot move away, place him on a
sit or down stay beside you when you are standing still.
Concentrate on your puppy and enforce the stay.
Do not allow him to change position unless you release him with an OK or give
him a different command.
Anxious or aggressive behavior around other dogs:
If your pup hackles when he sees another dog, stop and quietly smooth down the
hackles. Then give him something to do like a Let's go command and slowly and
quietly move him around until he calms down.
If he starts to growl or bark, leash and collar correct, then move slowly away from the
other dog. Once you get him to stop growling or barking, practice calming sits and
sit stays beside you to help him regain his self-control.
Once he has calmed down, he should be given the opportunity to sniff the other dog's
rear end ("explore" the dog). This will allow him to find out that the other dog won't
hurt him.
Contact your leader for more personal instruction.
Safety rules to keep in mind before allowing your puppy "explore" another
dog:
Always ask the other person's permission before allowing your pup to "explore"
another dog.
Never permit dog-to-dog interaction between two dogs that are either dog distracted
or dog aggressive.
Never use this technique when the other dog is off-leash.
Use this technique to permit your pup to "explore" another dog:
Walk your puppy toward the other dog's rear end, remembering to keep the leash
loose and to make him walk calmly beside you without pulling.
Then stop and release him with an OK command.
Permit him to briefly sniff the rear end of the other dog, then give him a Let's go
command and walk away.
Avoid head-to-head interactions with the other dog during that session.
Teach your puppy to be confident around unusual people, noises, odors and
objects
Goal: The puppy can accept unusual sights, smells, objects and people without becoming
distracted, frightened or out of control.
Since Guide Dogs go everywhere with their partners, they are regularly exposed to
unusual people, noises, odors and objects (homeless people, firecrackers, meat markets,
upside down tricycle on the sidewalk, etc.). It is very important that your puppy learn to
handle unusual encounters with calm acceptance.
You can teach him how to cope calmly with these types of encounters by following these
rules:
Read your puppy. Is he distracted or afraid?
If your puppy is distracted, use control (stop and sit him) and praise.
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If your puppy is afraid, quietly move him back away from the thing he is afraid of
until he reaches his "comfort zone" - the distance where he feels comfortable with
an unusual occurrence.
Give the puppy time to observe the situation.
If he is hesitant, try approaching from a different direction.
NEVER force a fearful puppy closer to something that he is afraid of or anxious about.
Allow the puppy time to listen and observe the situation.
Allow the puppy time to observe and decide when to move closer.
Be an example by having a calm, positive attitude.
During noises, speak with happy tones, showing your puppy that there is nothing
to be concerned about.
If he's afraid of an object, reach out and touch it and talk to it in a positive tone of
voice. This will spark your puppy's curiosity to investigate the object.
Remain calm and supportive, but do not reinforce anxiety.
Do NOT "coddle" a fearful puppy with "it's okay... ."
Use confident, happy words to distract the pup from worrying about a sound or
odor.
NEVER RUSH A HESITANT PUP. CONFIDENCE at a distance is better than FEAR close to
the object.
Praise all success.
Teach your puppy to trust people
Goal: The puppy is fully comfortable around a variety of people - both friends and
strangers - and trusts that human beings are his friends.
Trust will develop on a day-to-day basis as the puppy learns that you and your family
members are consistent, fair and gentle with him as you handle and train him. Another
way that the puppy will learn to trust people is through pleasant encounters with the
strangers that he meets on a regular basis as you socialize him. Lastly, the puppy's
encounters with the members and leaders in your puppy raising group can have a
significant influence on his attitude toward people.
Since your puppy raising group members can have such a significant impact on your
puppy's attitude toward people, it is particularly important that the puppy be given
repeated opportunities to have pleasant, consistent and structured experiences with
them.
There are five main types of experiences that can benefit your puppy:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Puppy passing
Walk-outs
Puppy trading
Overnight/several day visits
Transfers
The first three types of experiences will occur primarily through your puppy's contacts
with members at the regularly scheduled meetings. Guide Dogs recommends that
puppies below the age of 20 weeks be seen on a weekly basis by leaders.
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After a basis of trust is started at the meetings, these experiences will be reinforced
through regularly scheduled visits in members' homes. All of these experiences should
follow a schedule that is based on the puppies' progress and response to people. Fearful
and anxious puppies should proceed more slowly through the schedule. Bold, active
puppies will need to proceed through the schedule more quickly.
Puppy passing
Puppy passing is very easy to do:

Form a small circle of puppy group raisers on the floor. The circle should be tight
enough for everyone to touch knees.
Then pass all the puppies below the age of 13 weeks from hand to hand around the
circle. It's important, of course, to make sure that the puppies are held securely and
safely as they are passed so the pups will not become frightened or feel insecure
about falling.
As each individual receives a new puppy, he or she should calmly, quietly and sweetly
do the puppy handling exercises making sure that both their voice and hands are
calm, quiet and loving.
In large groups, no puppy should be handled more than five times.
Puppies that behave in a fearful or anxious manner (shivering or extremely tight in
their muscles) should only be passed to one other person the first time and then
should gradually be handled by more people as they become more comfortable at the
next sessions.
It is particularly important when handling bold, active puppies that they not be
handed to the next person until the first person has successfully been able to handle
and quiet them.
Puppies older than 13 weeks should no longer participate in puppy passing.
Walk-outs
The next phase of building trust is to teach the puppy that it can trust other people to
bring it back to you when they take it out of sight. Start the process of walk-outs the
week after the puppy passing is begun.
To begin:
Hand your puppy's leash to another handler who first speaks sweetly and gently to
the puppy as he gently pets it. It will help if the person crouches down in front of the
puppy while talking to and petting the pup.
After "sweet talking" and petting the puppy, the other handler should then start to
walk away with it and leave your sight.
It's important for you to stand still in the same spot as the puppy is taken away and
for you to be standing quietly in the same spot when the other handler returns with
your puppy.
Fearful, sensitive or anxious pups
If your puppy is reluctant to go with the other handler the first time, pick your puppy up
and hand it to the other handler.
The handler should then carry your puppy out of your sight. After the other handler
cannot see you anymore, he should stand and quietly talk in sweet tones to the puppy
while holding it gently.
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After a couple of moments, the other handler should return to you, stopping two to
three feet away from you.
Then, he should set the puppy on the ground and encourage it to walk back to you. It
is very important that the other handler keeps the leash loose and that he or she
refrain from correcting the puppy in any way during this step.
This exercise should be repeated with the first person until the puppy will at least
walk all the way back from the spot where the other handler has chosen to stand and
sweet talk the puppy. It's important that you proceed in small, steadily increasing
increments of distance.
Average pups
If your puppy is comfortable walking away with another handler, the handler should
refrain from correcting the puppy on this first trip out away from you.
If the puppy walks willingly out of sight, the handler should crouch down once he
cannot see you and sweetly talk to and pet the puppy for a moment before returning
it to you.
On succeeding trips with other people, mild corrections may be administered if
needed for mouthing, pulling or "garbage mouth" behaviors.
Corrections should stop during walk outs if the puppy shows any indication that it is
becoming anxious about going with the other handler.
Bold, active pups
If your puppy tries to mouth and pull on the leash a lot, then, when the other handler
takes him for a walk out, he should administer gentle but firm leash corrections for
mouthing, pulling on the leash or "garbage mouth" behaviors.
Even if your puppy is a bolder, active pup, it's still important for the other handler to
be very sweet and praise a lot if they have to correct your puppy. They should
particularly concentrate on sweet, gentle, slow interactions with the puppy when they
step out of your sight to interact with the pup.
Puppy trading
After your puppy is comfortable with being passed and walk-outs, the next phase is to
begin actually trading puppies. Generally your puppy should begin this process around
13 weeks of age but softer, more anxious pups may need to wait as late as 20 weeks.
To trade, do a walk-out but instead of just stopping and petting, the handler should
begin to gently and calmly practice "control exercises" such as the calming sit and
Come. All of these exercises should, of course, already have been started in your home
from the time the puppy is first delivered to you.
Overnight/several day visits
Puppies should do an overnight visit in someone else's home at least once in each 90-day
period (once every quarter) during their stay with you. Many leaders facilitate and direct
puppy trades as a mandatory part of raising. All puppy sitters must be trained in
Guide Dog techniques and approved by your leader. You should:
Talk to the raiser you are receiving the puppy from regarding any habits, needs or
special instructions they may have about their puppy.
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Keep him on a dragline and make him stay in the same room with you so you can
closely supervise his behavior.
Confine him in a safe secure area like a crate or a secure kennel when you cannot
supervise him.
Put him on a tie-down while you closely supervise his behavior for at least 15-20
minutes each day during the time he stays with you.
Supervise him closely during his interactions with other people.
Introduce him slowly and supervise him closely during his interactions with other
dogs and pets.
Confine him alone (NEVER WITH OTHER DOGS) if you have to leave him.
Offer only Guide Dog approved toys to play with.
Feed him the same food he is accustomed to eating.
Try to maintain his normal feeding and relieving schedule plus a few extra trips
outside to relieve; he may not know how to indicate to you that he needs to relieve.
Gently work on the handling and calming exercises to establish that he must pay
attention to you.
Socialize the puppy in a manner that is appropriate for his age and level of selfcontrol (you should ask the raiser what they have been doing with the puppy and try
to adhere to that type of socialization). This will help make the puppy feel secure.
Prevent obsessions
Goal: The puppy is able to make reasonable decisions without becoming distracted.
What is "obsessive" behavior? Obsessive behavior is displayed when the puppy becomes
so distracted by something that he can think of nothing else. You probably know a dog
that is crazy over something like tennis balls, a favorite toy, or cats, to the point that he
becomes so excited and focused that his attention cannot be switched to something else.
This type of behavior is what we mean by saying "the dog has obsessions".
Obsessive behavior is particularly detrimental for a Guide Dog because he must be able
to make reasoned decisions without becoming distracted. It is very important, therefore,
that you do not permit your Guide Dog puppy to develop habits that could become an
obsession.
The best way to stop obsessive behavior is to prevent it from developing.
Do not let your puppy become overly focused on certain objects or behaviors.
Intervene quickly before an obsession develops.
Gently redirect your puppy's attention. Give him something to do. Give him a
command such as Sit or Down and enforce it or initiate a game that will distract him
from his obsession.
Do not play obsession-provoking games such as catching a ball or retrieving an
object.
Take away toys that he finds overly interesting. Stop play with that toy before he
becomes obsessed.
Do not leave your dog unsupervised with other dogs - this will contribute to his
becoming dog-distracted or dog-obsessed.
Control play as discussed in "3-4 Exercise and Play" in section 3:Caring for your
puppy.
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Never encourage any obsessive behavior (like chasing the light from a flashlight or
chasing water from a hose).
Be calm.
Be consistent.
Be careful!
Once an obsession forms it cannot be erased, only controlled. Immediately contact your
leader if you believe your dog is starting an obsessive behavior.
Ball obsession, dog distraction and cat chasing are the three most common
obsessions. Some other common obsessions are:
Chasing balls
Chasing frisbees
Chasing leaves and other moving objects
Other dogs
Other animals
Children
Food
Applause
Cars
Bicycles
Skateboards
Tail chasing
Chasing objects
Carrying objects
Barking
Crying
Pawing
Digging
Chewing or licking his body
Water play with sprinklers/hoses
Guarding toys, food or space
Chasing lights (i.e. from a flashlight)
Good house manners

Regardless of how well behaved your puppy is in public, if he is a nuisance to live with,
he will not make a suitable guide. Therefore, it is very important that you begin early to
teach your puppy good house (and yard) manners.
When teaching or correcting house behaviors, follow these general rules:
Read the lessons in section 5: Teaching principles of the manual.

Confine your puppy in the crate or kennel when you cannot watch him. Later, after he
learns how to behave on a tie-down, you can also use the tie-down.
Do not let your puppy loose in the house when you are not watching him.
Keep a dragline on him so you will have a means of correcting him for inappropriate
behaviors. It is very important to supervise him constantly while he is wearing a
dragline to prevent him from becoming entangled and possibly injured or strangled.
Follow him from room-to-room, watching his every move, or make him stay in the
same room with you by closing the door or using a baby gate.
Anticipate inappropriate behaviors.
Plan and time your corrections (with your pup attached to a leash or dragline).
Correct all negative behaviors immediately with a collar correction.
Gauge your correction to the severity of the misbehavior.
Gauge your correction to the size and temperament of the dog.
Repeat and escalate your collar corrections until the behavior stops.
Do not "nag" your puppy. If you repeatedly need to correct to stop the same act, you
have not gauged your correction properly. Correct harder, change your timing or
change the type of correction.
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Do not use any verbal corrections.

Praise the dog as soon as he stops the negative behavior.
Anytime your puppy spontaneously behaves appropriately (comes to you calmly, lies
down calmly, or even walks through the house calmly), praise him.
Teach your puppy not to jump on people
A dog that jumps up on people is both a nuisance and a potential safety hazard. It's
therefore important to teach your puppy to keep "four on the floor". Two techniques will
help you to teach your puppy to keep his feet on the floor when meeting people.
The easiest technique is to require excitable puppies to sit before allowing other
people to pet them. A puppy cannot jump up on a person while sitting. If your puppy
becomes excited and "forgets" to sit, he will understand a correction for breaking his
sit easier than he will understand a correction for jumping on a person he wants to
see.
If your puppy wasn't told to sit and he has already succeeded in jumping up on the
person, simply give him a Sit command and leash and collar correct him for not
sitting if he ignores you.
It's very important that you praise him when he is sitting, even if you had to
correct him to get him to sit.
If he had to be corrected for jumping on a person (by using the sit command and
enforcing it), ask them not to touch or talk to your puppy until he will sit still calmly
beside you. You may need to ask them to not touch him at all (this session) if he
remains excitable.
Once he learns not to jump up on people, you can begin phasing out the sit when he
meets people.
Teach your puppy not to get on furniture or beds
Since your puppy will be accompanying his partner to other people's homes if he grows
up to be a guide, it is important that he learn not to get on furniture and beds. Not
everyone is comfortable with sharing their furniture with a dog.
This behavior is one of many that can be prevented or stopped by close supervision and
the use of the dragline. It is very likely that your puppy will attempt to get onto furniture
sometime after 12 weeks of age (younger pups may attempt this, but rarely have enough
physical agility to get up by themselves).
Never hold a small, young pup on your lap while you are on the furniture. It teaches
him that it is all right to be on the furniture.
Make your puppy stay in the same room with you or follow him around as he wears a
dragline.
Try to catch him in the act the first time he thinks about getting on a piece of
furniture.
Leash and collar correct as he tries to get on the furniture.
Give him lots of praise when he returns all four feet to the floor.
Give him lots of opportunities to practice keeping his feet on the floor.
If you weren't supervising closely enough and he succeeds in getting on the furniture,
correct him off. Next time, supervise more closely so you can catch him in the act!
Also, leash and collar correct him for putting his front feet up on furniture. Standing
on furniture is the first step to climbing on it.
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Teach your puppy not to race through the house
An agile puppy running through the house can be a real safety hazard. For someone with
a visual impairment, it can be even more hazardous. Running is an outdoor activity and
is not appropriate in the house. It is, therefore, important that your puppy learn to move
through the house in a calm, collected manner.
By using his dragline for corrections, teach your puppy not to run through the house.
If your puppy begins to run in the house, simply step on his line and bring him to a
standstill. Whenever possible, do a calming sit to help him regain his self-control.
If your puppy is very persistent about wanting to run in the house, he may not be
getting enough exercise. In that case, increasing your puppy's exercise may take care
of his desire to run and decrease his attempts to run in the house.
Remember also to correct your puppy and your other dogs for roughhousing/chase
games indoors.
Teach your puppy not to chew or engage in other inappropriate oral habits
Puppies are very oral. They have a natural need to chew, especially when they lose their
baby teeth and their permanent teeth start to come in. Chewing is also a way to stay busy
and relieve boredom or normal puppy tensions.
Your puppy really does not care what he chews and, if allowed, could stay busy for hours
at a time if he has something to gnaw on. In fact, he can become "obsessed" with
chewing. Therefore it is important that you:
Teach him right from the beginning what is okay to chew and what is not.
Give him less and less opportunity for extended periods of chewing so you will
gradually wean him from his reliance on it.
Inappropriate chewing can cause many problems.
Puppies who chew inappropriately can be very destructive.
They may experience severe health problems if they ingest pieces of toys or other
unsuitable objects.
Puppies who are not weaned from their addiction to extended periods of chewing
may experience stress when they cannot indulge in their addiction during training.
Addiction to chewing and other destructive oral habits can cause a dog to be dropped
from the program, as dogs with these habits are unsuitable as guides.
It is very important that you teach your puppy not to chew on inappropriate objects and
to become accustomed to living without the constant presence of a chew toy. The Puppy
toy and play policy (see Policies, forms and resources) were developed to provide you
with guidance about appropriate toys, play and how to prevent your puppy from
becoming addicted to his toys. Please read and use this policy when you provide your
puppy with toys and when you play with him.
Guidelines to teach your puppy not to chew or pick up objects:
At first, prevent chewing by keeping valuable or dangerous objects placed safely out
of the puppy's reach.
Always be aware of where your puppy is and what he is doing.
Confine him when you are not able to supervise him, but remember that young
puppies should not be confined for more than three or four hours at a stretch.
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Use the following "seeding" procedure to teach your puppy not to pick up, carry or
touch objects that don't belong to him.
Use the "stay alone" procedures outlined in this section to teach your puppy to leave
things alone when you are not directly supervising him.
Make sure that your puppy has plenty of exercise every day. This helps to control
boredom, settles high energy and will cut down on your puppy's need to chew.
Teach your puppy not to pick up objects: seeding and setting up
Guide Dogs must be good housedogs. They may not pick up objects or be destructive.
They may not seek out or take food from the floor, tables, counters, or from the hand. By
seeding the floor and setting up the dog during training sessions, you can teach your
puppy to avoid these items. The puppy should not pick up, carry, chew on, eat or lick
household items, clothing, shoes, food or anything other than its own toys. Your puppy
can be introduced to this exercise at 8 weeks. You should continue to reinforce the
behavior for the entire time you are raising your puppy.
Seeding the floor
Pick out a few items, such as shoes, socks, dishtowels, tissue, stuffed animals, dryer
sheets, etc., or another item in which your puppy has previously shown interest, but
no more than three or four.
Train with this exercise in all rooms to which the puppy will have access. By training
in one room only, the puppy will quickly learn that he must avoid these items only
within that room.
Place the items on the floor. Begin with spacing them fairly close together -about 18
to 24 apart. Also place approved toys on the floor, as many or more than the
forbidden items. Each time you train, space the items a little farther apart, and vary
the number and arrangement.
Bring your puppy into the room on-leash or dragline. Allow the puppy to approach
and investigate the items. The puppy may briefly sniff or walk over the item.
You may need to stay on the floor with your puppy so you can see when the puppy
starts to pick up an object.
If the puppy chooses an approved toy, allow him to play with it for a few minutes.
Then, remove the approved toy from the pile for a time to allow the puppy to
investigate the forbidden items.
If the puppy attempts to lick, put his mouth over, grab, chew, etc., give a quick popand-release correction. Timing is everything. You must get the correction as the
puppy makes his move. It's too late if you allow the pup to pick something up and
run off with it before you make the correction. By making the correction as the puppy
starts to pick up or touch the item with his mouth or nose, he will understand that
picking up the item was wrong - this is your goal.
If your correction comes after the puppy already has the object in his mouth, he will
only learn that he's not supposed to carry the object. This is good, and it's something
the pup should know, but now try to teach the puppy not to pick it up in the first
place by making the correction earlier.
If the puppy does manage to get the item in his mouth, do not give a correction,
either verbal or physical. Instead, quietly step on the leash or dragline and draw the
puppy toward you. When the puppy is directly in front of you, remove the item from
his mouth. Do not give a command (such as out or drop) to release, and do not
praise the puppy for releasing the item to you. Take the item and put it away, or put
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it back to where the puppy found it. Do not give the puppy any attention for the next
several minutes after removing the item from his mouth. Puppies often pick up items
to gain attention, so we do not want the puppy to receive any attention, either
positive or negative, from you.
Often a puppy will repeatedly attempt to pick up an item. Be prepared, and be
persistent. Escalate your corrections until the pup abandons his ideas of picking up
the object.
Make your corrections firm enough to get the desired response, but no firmer.
Setting up your puppy
Sometimes puppies are too smart for their own good. They quickly know when they're
involved in a training session and when they're not. Outsmart your puppy by
designing a setup that doesn't look like a setup. Use a dragline or leash to enable you
to get effective and timely corrections. For this to work, your puppy will need to have
a dragline attached frequently. The puppy should think that an attached dragline is a
normal situation. Again, if the dragline is attached only during training sessions, your
puppy may realize that he only gets corrections when the line is attached.
Setting up your puppy is similar to seeding the floor. Use one or two objects that you
know your puppy just can't resist. Example: If your puppy has a problem with getting
into trashcans, then set out a trash can near you while you appear to watch TV, read
or do some other normal activity. If the problem is with socks, use a sock or two. This
is a good time to practice your acting skills - act nonchalant. Leave a dragline or leash
attached to the collar. Anytime the puppy approaches the trash can to investigate, use
the dragline to correct him. Remember that this is a training session - pay attention to
your puppy. The timing of the correction is critical.
If the puppy does manage to pick up the item, draw the puppy towards you as
described in seeding the floor. Once again, do not give the puppy a command (such
as out or drop) to release, do not praise the puppy for releasing the item, and
ignore the puppy for a few minutes after you remove the item from his mouth.
Often raisers will say their puppy is always good when he's on a dragline and makes
mistakes when he's not - that he knows the difference. This is often true, and the
solution is simple: leave the dragline on whenever the puppy is free in a room or the
house. Even if the dragline is always on, as long as the puppy is not making mistakes,
progress is being made.
The purpose of these training sessions is to pattern the puppy to not pick up
inappropriate items. Eventually, when the puppy consistently behaves well with the
full-length leash or dragline on, a few inches of the dragline can be removed. The
goal is to slowly shorten, over a long period of time, the dragline, until it is just a
short tab hanging from the collar. Ask for advice from your leader or CFR about how
to proceed with shortening the line.
As with seeding the floor, train with this exercise in all rooms of the house.
Setting up your puppy with food
Teaching your puppy not to take food from the hand, floor or table must be handled
slightly differently than with non-food items. Food is one of the most attractive items
a working dog guide may encounter. Because of this, it is important to teach puppies
to avoid people food altogether.
Puppies should be about 12 weeks of age when starting to teach food avoidance.
Use small bits of very enticing food, such as cheese, hot dogs, meat, snack food, etc.
Section 6-1
2/2003
Important Behaviors
Keep your puppy on a leash or dragline. Keep the leash in your hand.
Start with the food in another person's hand, held at the puppy's level. When first
training, do not tease or offer the food to the puppy - just hold it where it can be
easily reached by the pup.
If the puppy approaches within 6" - 12" of the food in the hand, give a leash
correction to stop the pup from sniffing it. A dog's sense of smell is highly developed
- he'll know this is food long before he's close to it. The goal with food is to teach the
puppy not to approach. Puppies that are allowed to sniff food often eat it before a
handler can react. If the puppy stops approaching the food or moves away, praise
him. The puppy may repeatedly attempt to get to the food, so be persistent.
As the puppy learns not to approach food in the hand, place food at the edge of
tables at the puppy's height. Use the same technique - as the puppy approaches the
food, correct him. Praise when the pup stops approaching or moves away.
Once the puppy has an idea that food is to be avoided, you may have people offer
food to the puppy. Use the same correction technique as above. If it seems unfair to
offer food and then correct when the puppy responds, think about the situations a
working guide will encounter. They are frequently offered food by strangers that they
must not take. They may frequently be near children or adults holding food in their
hands. A working guide's partner may not know the food is present. It is necessary
that your puppy learn not to approach food in any situation.
As your pup grows, his nose will be close to kitchen table or counter height.
Whenever your puppy sniffs the edge of the table or counter, leash correct him.
Sniffing is often preliminary to taking food from the table or counter. If the puppy
learns sniffing is not allowed, it is less likely that he will try to take food.
Summary:
Puppies should be taught early on that they may not pick up objects or food. They may
not take food from hand. With consistent seeding of the floor and setups, puppies
quickly learn what is acceptable behavior and what is not. Raisers who are inconsistent
and allow puppies to pick up objects without consequences will find that their puppies
are slow to learn appropriate behavior. The key to success is proper supervision of
puppies at all times to prevent puppies from taking objects in their mouths.
Teach your puppy not to dig
Puppies often use digging in the yard or garden as a way to relieve tension or escape
boredom. Most dogs consider digging great fun. Because they think it is fun, it can be a
difficult habit to break. Again, the key is to prevent it from becoming a habit by
supervising your puppy when he is in the yard. This is one time when a loud no can be
very helpful as you see him start to dig.
If you did not catch him in the act, but find the hole, fill it with one of the puppy's stools
before putting the dirt back. This may repel him from digging again in that area, but it
will not cure him from digging. Therefore... SUPERVISE MORE CLOSELY. Since the urge to
dig occurs at different ages, be very persistent in your supervision to prevent this habit
from getting started. Sometimes it can start up long after you thought he had already
learned not to dig.
Section 6-1
2/2003
Important Behaviors
Teach your puppy not to bark or whine
Puppies tend to bark or whine when they get excited (such as when their food is being
prepared, there's another dog outside, or visitors come to your door). A certain amount
of vocalizing is a normal tendency. However, barking and whining tends to increase as a
dog ages, so it is important that you start early to teach your puppy to be quiet,
especially when confined or in public.
Guidelines for teaching your puppy to be quiet:
Use a leash and collar correction if he is noisy when he gets excited. (His dragline
should be on so you have a handle to use for corrections).
Follow corrections with a calming sit exercise to help him regain control if he is a
very excitable pup.
Remember to praise when he is quiet.
If your puppy barks at you when you correct him, escalate your correction to ensure
that your puppy realizes the seriousness of his misconduct.
Be consistent and persistent about the issue of vocalizing. You may think it is cute
when your puppy "talks" to you, but it will only confuse him if you allow him to bark
sometimes and correct him for barking and whining other times.
A puppy that barks or whines for no reason while confined in a crate or on a tie-down
should be consistently corrected. Did you relieve him first and make sure that he has
had his needs for exercise, food and water met?
In the beginning, use these guidelines to deal with barking or whining while
crated:
During your puppy's first days with you, ignore crying. If you correct a new, anxious
puppy for being scared and lonely, you will just make him more afraid (scared, lonely
babies cry).
Do not attempt to soothe the puppy because to do so rewards the crying.
Do not give the puppy food or Do your business breaks unless you think those are
valid reasons for his crying (remember to relieve him before putting him in the crate
or on the tie down).
Praise the puppy when the crying stops.
At first, take him out of the crate or off the tie-down shortly after he stops crying.
Young puppies don't have much patience. Build his tolerance for confinement over a
gradual period of time.
After he has had adjustment time (at least several days):
Correct by attaching a tie-down to his collar and running it through the door of the
crate. Attach a leash to the tie-down extending from his crate to make the correction
easier to do. If the puppy is on tie-down alone, extend a leash away from it. With the
end of the leash in your hand, give leash and collar corrections for vocalizing.
Try to administer the correction as he is making the noise.
NEVER leave the tie-down on him when you can't be present to supervise him - he
could injure himself.
PRAISE when he is quiet.
After he is quiet, leave the tie-down hanging out of the crate door or the leash
extended away from him when he is on the tie-down alone.
Section 6-1
2/2003
Important Behaviors
After he has learned to be quiet with the tie-down or leash connected (at least 30 days
with no barking or whining while confined), practice without it on.
Then he will be ready for you to begin the stay alone" techniques.
House manners
The Sit, Down, Stay and Come exercises that you will learn later in this section also will
help in controlling house behaviors. Even though we are trying to teach or correct
different behaviors, the concept for doing so is the same. They are all best dealt with by
using the home training tools, appropriate corrections and preventative supervision.
Teach your puppy not to sniff people, other pets or objects in the environment
obsessively or inappropriately
The sense of smell is one of a dog's strongest senses, and sniffing is a natural behavior
for them. They do it well and with enthusiasm. For most dogs, that's not a problem. It is
a problem for guides who must concentrate on their work. Odors can be more distracting
than what they see or hear. If a puppy is allowed to engage in excessive and
inappropriate sniffing, he may develop a habit that will be very difficult for the training
staff to eliminate.
What's excessive and inappropriate?
It's always excessive and inappropriate for your puppy to sniff people or the
environment while in public.
It's always inappropriate for your puppy to excessively sniff a person after allowing a
brief introduction.
Otherwise, at home or while at play, there is no problem with sniffing as long as he
responds to your commands.
How do you teach your puppy not to sniff? The answer is very basic: consistently use
leash and collar corrections for inappropriate sniffing.
The correction should occur as the puppy moves his head toward the person, dog or
object that he wants to sniff. Whether your puppy raises his head to sniff a table or
countertop or lowers his head to sniff the floor, make the correction as he begins to
move. It's important to correct this behavior as it begins. If you are attentive and
consistent, your puppy will learn quickly that sniffing is not allowed.
There is one time when sniffing is not only permissible but also necessary - when you
have commanded your puppy to relieve. For a dog, sniffing the ground and/or bushes is
part of the act of relieving. If you correct your puppy for sniffing when you have
commanded him to relieve, you will have problems getting him to relieve. Always
permit sniffing when you want your puppy to relieve.
Teach your puppy not to charge out of doors or bolt out of vehicles
Puppies and guides that bolt out of doors or vehicles will likely be lost, injured or even
killed. For their safety, they need to learn early to refrain from proceeding through
doorways or leaving vehicles without your permission.
Section 6-1
2/2003
Important Behaviors
Techniques that will help you to teach your puppy not to bolt out of doors or vehicles:
Always make your puppy sit and wait until it is released with an OK before allowing it
to go out a door.
When your puppy is in a vehicle, make your puppy remain seated (if he is not in a
crate or on a tie-down) until you release him with an OK.
Practice sit and down stays inside your vehicle with the door open.
Make sure that you practice this away from traffic so you and he will not be in
danger of being run over by cars while practicing.
Make sure you have a leash or dragline on him so you can use effective leash
and collar corrections.
Set up sessions to specifically work on not bolting out of doors.
Practice sit and down stays by open doors.
With your dragline on the puppy, prop the door open and correct him for trying to
go outside without your permission.
When he is pretty good about ignoring the open door, have someone walk a
distraction by the open door (like another dog or a cat).
Teach your puppy not to put his mouth on people or clothing
Puppies use their mouths to check out everything, especially each other. Young puppies
in a litter will do quite a bit of biting in play. Since you are now part of his "pack," he will
try to do the same thing with you. At first this may seem cute and harmless, but his
sharp teeth soon will tell you differently. Also, if you ignore it, this will become a normal
way of acting or playing with friends and visitors.
When doing the handling exercises, leash and collar correct EVERY TIME your puppy
mouths your body or items of clothing.
Strengthen the force of your correction if your puppy persists in mouthing you.
Remember to stroke your puppy slowly and calmly when he refrains from mouthing
you. This will teach him to enjoy being handled.
NEVER pull your hand away if your puppy is mouthing you. Instead, leash and collar
correct your puppy with your other hand until your puppy lets go.
Remember to then slowly stroke him with the same hand that he was trying to mouth
so he doesn't become hand shy.
Use the dragline or your leash to correct mouthing when you are not actively working
on the puppy handling exercises.
Teach your puppy not to be possessive with toys or food
It is very important that your puppy learn not to be possessive about his food or toys. It
is your job to teach him to trust people. A distrustful, possessive dog may become
aggressive. A possessive dog may attempt to discipline people or other dogs for taking
his food or toys. If your puppy displays food possessiveness, even by displaying a tense
or protective body posture, feed him alone and have your leader contact your CFR. To
teach your puppy not to be possessive, use these guidelines:
Use the feeding procedure outlined in section 3: Caring for your puppy to teach your
puppy to trust people around his food.
NEVER encourage people to take your puppy's food away from him or to put their
hands in his bowl.
Do not allow other dogs (or your cat) to take his food or to pester him during eating.
It will teach him to be defensive because he will believe that you will not protect him
from other animals.
Section 6-1
11/2008
Important Behaviors
Teach your puppy to ignore people food
Your Guide Dog puppy needs to learn appropriate manners around "people food" in
order to have a future as a guide.
Training techniques:
At first, work your puppy on a leash near food and correct his interest.
Later, have your puppy wear a dragline around the house when you are there to
supervise him so you can correct him from a distance.
When you catch him in the act, correct him for trying to steal food or for trying to get
into the trash.
Try to correct him as soon as he sniffs toward the food.
Do not wait until the puppy dashes or jumps for the food. He may be quicker than
you are and successfully steal the food.
Every time your puppy successfully steals food, he is being rewarded for his
inappropriate behavior and that will teach him to do it again.
If you repeatedly fail to catch your puppy stealing food, you will not be able to change
his behavior.
Praise the puppy after you correct him away from the food.
Once your puppy learns that he is not allowed to steal or forage, leave food on the
floor or counter edges when he can be watched closely as he wears a dragline.
If you see your puppy making an obvious effort to refuse or ignore people food,
praise him.
General rules about people food
Never feed "people food" to your puppy. Feed him only his own food.
Feed your puppy only from his own bowl. Never hand-feed your puppy.
Teach your puppy not to eat off the ground.
Feed him after you have eaten your own meal, not before.
Teach your puppy to stay out of the trash.
Do not let him out of your sight when food (on the table or counter or in the trash) is
present.
Put food away and tightly cover the trash when you are not present.
Teach your puppy not to steal food off tables or counters.
See "seeding and setting up" earlier in this section.
How's that puppy ever going to have fun?
By
By
By
By
playing with his raiser whom he loves so much

playing with his own toys
chewing on his own toys
getting to go places with his raiser that pet dogs are not allowed
Every one of the house manners a guide dog needs is teachable. Inappropriate behaviors,
however, will not disappear on their own. If ignored, they will only get worse. The best
way to correct those behaviors and to teach appropriate behavior is to approach the task
thoughtfully and systematically.
Approach correcting negative behaviors as a challenge.
View them as a game that is won through the use of correct strategies and hard work.
Plan ahead and set up a training schedule to work on specific behaviors.
Section 6-1
11/2008
Important Behaviors
If you consistently correct all inappropriate behaviors every time they occur, no
matter how busy or distracted you may be, YOU WILL WIN THE GAME!
Your leader and CFR are there to assist you with any issue you and your puppy
are having. Always feel free to contact them for advice and assistance.
Section 6-1
11/2008
Important Behaviors
6-2 SOCIALIZATION
Its time to take that puppy out!
Taking your puppy out into the world is probably the most enjoyable part of being a
puppy raiser. If your puppy is to eventually guide a person with a visual impairment, he
must be capable of going anywhere without fear or hesitation.
Puppy coat guidelines
Guide Dogs for the Blind provides the leader of each group with green puppy coats in a
variety of sizes. We want your puppy to wear this coat whenever he is in public and
especially if he is in a place where puppies are not normally allowed. Your leader will
provide you with a puppy coat when your puppy is ready to be socialized in public and
with each successive size as your puppy grows.
The coat provides a visual explanation to the public as to why your puppy is in an
area where dogs may not normally be allowed.
The coat is a symbol of the work of Guide Dogs for the Blind and the puppy raising
club to which you belong.
Do not allow any dog or puppy other than your Guide Dog puppy to wear the puppy
coat.
Remove the puppy coat before commanding your puppy to relieve, to prevent him
from possibly soiling it. If he does start to relieve while wearing his coat, just ignore
it. Wash the coat later. Next time, watch your pup more closely so you can remove the
coat before he starts.
Public places
State laws vary regarding granting public access to guide dog puppies. Regardless of
state law, and in accordance with Guide Dogs for the Blind policy, Guide Dog puppies
may only have access to public or private places where they are granted willing
admittance or inclusion by the proprietor, manager or staff of the business, facility or
service.
Guide Dogs will not lobby or otherwise attempt to achieve access for puppies in any
setting where the puppies are not welcome. Raisers and leaders may not demand, coerce,
lobby, argue, litigate or otherwise attempt to force issues of access for Guide Dog
puppies.
Before you go any place where dogs are not normally allowed, such as a restaurant or
supermarket, be sure to contact the management to get permission to enter. Whether
they agree to permit you to enter or not, thank them for their time. It is always a good
idea to send a thank-you note when they do cooperate by allowing you and your puppy
to come in.
A NOTE OF WARNING: never leave your puppy unattended in a public place - even if it is
only for a moment to run inside and ask for permission to enter. Unfortunately, puppies
left alone may be stolen, mistreated, or get into mischief.
2/2003
Section 6-2
Socialization
Never leave your puppy in the car unattended even if the puppy is in a crate.
Never force your puppy into any situation or toward anything that frightens him.
Always allow your puppy to accept the experience slowly, at his own pace.
If your puppy hesitates, stop for a while and allow him to look things over from a
distance.
Calmly praise and reassure him and wait for him to become curious enough to
want to go nearer.
Always keep an eye on your puppy and watch his reaction to something unfamiliar.
He probably will look at it from several sides, try to get a good smell of it, and will
come slowly closer until he is satisfied it will not hurt him.
Then he will suddenly ignore it and act as though it never frightened him in the
first place.
Never reinforce frightened behavior.
Always allow your puppy to learn about new sounds, objects or places at his own
pace. This means that if your puppy pulls back, whimpers, or shows any signs of
fear, don't coddle or 'baby' him by petting him or telling him "It's okay". This could
reassure him into thinking that it is all right to be afraid.
Instead, pull back from the situation, quietly talk to him and settle him down.
Then slowly re-approach, and let him become comfortable on his own.
When he starts to explore this new situation, be sure to praise him.
Be aware of how people treat your puppy
Never allow anyone to tease your puppy. Teasing could make your puppy
distrustful or aggressive toward strangers.
Don't allow your puppy to jump on friends or visitors, or to beg food from them.
Be firm and explain to them that your puppy is being trained for a special purpose
and that his training must NEVER be broken.
Only people approved by your leader should puppy-sit your puppy.
How to socialize your Guide Dog puppy
Provide step-by-step experiences that are age appropriate.

Select single-stimulus experiences to introduce something new.
Example: Try to avoid exposing your puppy to a new object that moves and/or
makes a noise at the same time.
Be patient. Never force. Progress at the puppy's acceptance level.
Never use noise or verbal threats as a correction.
Provide the puppy with appropriate leadership by your example.
Don't console him if he is hesitant or fearful.
Have a neutral, matter-of-fact attitude about things that frighten the puppy or make
him uneasy.
Be consistent; have the same behavioral expectations every time.
Be fair; balance corrections and praise.
Corrections should be appropriate for the situation, the age, size and temperament of
the pup.
Work to develop a respectful relationship.
Start early to teach your puppy to be attentive to you.
Use practice, persistence and praise.
2/2003
Section 6-2
Socialization
Read the puppy and observe his reactions; respond according to how the puppy is
acting and feeling.
Use praise for attempts as well as for success.
If the distraction overwhelms the puppy, retreat to a distance the puppy is
comfortable with.
Socializing/outings dos and don'ts for puppies below 20 weeks of age

Do:
Follow the Puppy socialization guide listed on the following pages.

Take your young puppy (below 20 weeks of age) to places where he can receive some
socializing experiences. Use the "quick in and out" method of socializing new or
young puppies. Just do a quick walk into a building, stop 1-3 paces inside the door,
look around and then turn and leave. This is just long enough for the puppy to have a
"look around and leave" before an 'accident' occurs!
Progress to sitting at a bench inside a mall as the puppy gets a little older but still
may not be 100 percent housebroken. He can sit and take in all the activity without
the added stimulus of walking.
Do not take your young puppy (below 20 weeks of age) to areas with high dog traffic:
public parks, rest areas, pet shops or pet supply houses that either sell dogs or
permit dogs to come into their store, grooming shops, school playgrounds or places
where sick dogs have been.
Do not let your new puppy walk into the vet's office or relieve outside the vet's office
until after he has completed his vaccination series. Carry him in and hold him on your
lap.
We want you to introduce the puppy to many types of people, places and things, however
not all socializations and outings are appropriate for every puppy. Some types of
socialization and outings may put the puppy at risk for contracting disease if he has not
had all of his vaccines. Other types of socialization and outings may be too
overwhelming for a young or sensitive puppy. Below is a list of age related types of
socialization/outings. If the outing or socialization is not on the list and you are unsure
about taking your puppy please contact your leader.
2/2003
Section 6-2
Socialization
PUPPY SOCIALIZATION GUIDE

8-9 Wks
9-10 Wks
10-11 Wks
11-12 Wks
12-16 Wks
4-6 Mo.
6+ Mo.
CFR
Approval
CFR APPROVAL
Airline travel
Never
Never
Never
Never
Never
Younger than
5 mo.: Never
Older than 5
mo.: CFR
Approval
Amusement parks
Never
Never
Never
Never
Never
CFR approval
Dog shows
Never
Never
Never
Never
Never
CFR approval
Fireworks display
Never
Never
Never
Never
Never
CFR approval
Gun ranges
Never
Never
Never
Never
Never
CFR approval
Professional sporting events
Never
Never
Never
Never
Never
CFR approval
CFR
approval
CFR
approval
CFR
approval
CFR
approval
CFR
approval
CFR approval
CFR
approval
CFR
approval
CFR
approval
CFR
approval
CFR
approval
CFR approval
CFR
approval
Never
Never
Never
Never
Never
Never
Never
Never
Never
Never
Never
Never
Never
Never
Never
Never
Never
Never
Never
Never
Never
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
Never
Never
OK
Never
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
Never
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
Never
Never
Never
Never
Never
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
Never
OK
OK
OK
OK
Never
OK
OK
OK
OK
Never
OK
OK
OK
OK
Never
OK
OK
OK
OK
Never
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
School
Any unusually loud, crowded,
high-speed, multi-stimulant, or
otherwise unusual activity
NEVER APPROVED
Wild animal parks and zoos
Amusement rides including
carousels
Escalators/moving sidewalks
ANIMALS
Adult dogs (dogs known to be
calm, friendly & has vaccines)
Puppies (at puppy meetings)
Cats/kittens
Small pets
Birds
Livestock
PEOPLE
Young adults
Middle aged adults
Elderly adults
Disabled/odd gaits
Loud people
Big looming people
Uniformed people
People in costumes
People in hats
People with beards
People with glasses
People with helmets
People with gloves
People with umbrellas
Babies
Toddlers
Juniors
Teens
PLACES
A big city (downtown)
A small town (downtown, quick
in/out shops) no parks or high
dog areas
Ballgames
Car rides
Evening walks
Friends homes
Outside a school yard
2/2003
CFR
approval
CFR
approval
CFR
approval
CFR
approval
CFR
approval
CFR
approval
Section 6-2
Socialization
PUPPY SOCIALIZATION GUIDE

Parks
Public beaches
Restaurants
Riding in a car in a crate and
riding in different cars
Shopping centers
The vet
Walks at dusk
Warehouse store (Costco etc)
THINGS
Bikes, skateboards & skates
Ceiling fan
Crate
Elevators
Flags/tarps blowing
Grates
Household appliances
Lawn equipment
Public transportation
Shopping carts
Slippery floors
Stairs
Tie-down
TRAFFIC
Residential w/sidewalk light
traffic oncoming with buffer
(such as vehicles)
Residential light traffic from
behind with buffer (such as
vehicles)
City sidewalk or sidewalkless
moderate traffic
Big city heavy traffic
Bus stops
Parking lots
8-9 Wks
Never
Never
OK
9-10 Wks
Never
Never
OK
10-11 Wks
Never
Never
OK
11-12 Wks
Never
Never
OK
12-16 Wks
Never
Never
OK
4-6 Mo.
OK
OK
OK
6+ Mo.
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK quick
in/out
Carry in
OK
Never
OK quick
in/out
Carry in
OK
Never
OK quick
in/out
Carry in
OK
Never
Ok quick
in/out
Carry in
OK
Never
OK quick
in/out
Carry in
OK
Never
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
Never
OK
OK
Never
Never
OK
OK
Never
Never
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
Never
OK
OK
OK
OK
Never
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
Never
OK
OK
OK
OK
Never
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
Never
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
Never
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
Never
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
Never
Never
Never
Never
OK
OK
OK
Never
Never
Never
Never
Never
OK
OK
Never
Never
Never
Never
Never
OK
Never
Never
OK
Never
Never
OK
Never
Never
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
OK
Never= Do not socialize

OK=OK to socialize
Never take your puppy on socializations/outings that are not approved by

Guide Dogs for the Blind. These include:
Animal parks and zoos
Amusement rides (all rides including carousels)
Dog parks or off-leash dog areas
Escalators/moving sidewalks
You must have approval from your CFR prior to taking your puppy on the
following socializations/outings:
Airline travel
Amusement parks
Dog shows
Fireworks displays
Gun ranges
Professional sporting events
School
2/2003
Section 6-2
Socialization
Travel out of state or away from home for more than one week
Any unusually loud, crowded, high-speed, multi-stimulant, or otherwise unusual activity
Teach your puppy to walk calmly up and down stairs
It's very important for a guide to negotiate stairs quietly and calmly. A Guide Dog that is
fearful or anxious on stairs can be a real safety hazard. To teach your puppy to negotiate
stairs calmly introduce stairs using this method:
Going up: Start your puppy by placing him at the top with his front feet on the
landing and his back ones on the first step below the landing. He may need to be
carried up to the top step to start this procedure.
Going down: Start the puppy at the bottom by placing his front feet on the ground
and his back ones on the first step above the ground. He may need to be carried down
to the bottom step to start this procedure.
Encourage him to make the one step onto the landing or onto the ground.
Praise his success.
Gradually move farther up or down the steps as he becomes more relaxed.
Praise all success.
Some general rules about negotiating stairs:
Never force a puppy to go up or down a flight of stairs.

Gradually introduce different types of stairs as your puppy gains more confidence.
Do not let him charge up or down the stairs. Keep a short but loose leash to maintain
control.
Develop a calm, steady pace on stairs, remembering his future duties as a guide.
Walk safely when on stairs. Protect your safety by holding the handrail.
Teach your puppy to be relaxed on new surfaces
Your goal is to teach your puppy to walk on new or different surfaces in a relaxed and
confident manner, maintaining a normal or slower pace. He should never stop, speed up,
jump or veer off to avoid any surface. Surfaces he should experience are stairs, grates,
manhole covers or any odd surface such as tile floors or gravel.
Introducing new surfaces
Slow down when approaching the new surface.

Hold your leash short, but loose, to maintain control.
Be prepared to stop if your pup wants to investigate the new surface.
Allow your puppy the time to look, sniff, and investigate the new surface.
Lowering his head and some sniffing is acceptable while walking onto a new
surface.
Do not rush your puppy to walk on the new surface.
A puppy will be much more willing to walk on a different surface if you allow him
a moment to investigate it.
Verbally praise his investigation of the surface. This will give him an incentive to
continue checking it out.
Praise his tentative steps onto the surface.
Avoid rewarding fear or anxiety by soothing; instead, be neutral and calm.
Do not drag your puppy onto or across the surface.
Never allow your pup to jump around the new surface.
2/2003
Section 6-2
Socialization
Keep the puppy lined up towards the surface.

Patiently give him time to advance.
Praise him as he walks across the surface.
As the puppy becomes more comfortable with the surface, control rushing or sniffing.
Don't forget to PRAISE!
Teach your puppy to be confident around traffic
As in all types of socialization, exposure to traffic should be done slowly and

systematically. A hurried, premature exposure to heavy traffic can develop insecure
reactions in your puppy that could affect his ability to be a successful guide. The
following guidelines will help you teach your puppy to be confident around traffic:
Avoid exposing very young puppies to heavy traffic.
Very young puppies (8-12 weeks) that appear afraid can even be held while observing
heavy traffic, giving them a more secure feeling.
Select traffic exposure sites that have a natural "escape route" away from traffic, so
you can remove your puppy from the traffic if he is becoming worried or uneasy.
Closely watch your puppy when you are beginning his exposure to traffic.
Move away from the traffic if you observe your puppy showing any signs of worry.
If your puppy is inadvertently exposed to a traffic situation that has made him
uncomfortable, talk to your puppy in a confident tone of voice to distract him as you
slowly move away. Be careful not to console or soothe him.
Exposures to heavy traffic may need to start as far away as 40 yards.
Beginning traffic exposure
Try to expose the puppy at a distance far enough from the traffic to maintain confidence.
For some puppies that can be five yards and for others it may be 20 yards.
Start by selecting a low-traffic street in a residential area.
Progress to streets with higher traffic levels only after your puppy is totally
comfortable at the first level.
All progressions to faster, heavier traffic should be done slowly.
Begin by sitting on a bench with the puppy sitting next to you on the ground. Position
him so he is facing the street. Allowing the puppy to just be still and observe the
traffic will develop his confidence that the traffic will not harm him.
Next, have him sit next to you while you are standing on the sidewalk closer to the
traffic. He still should be facing the street.
Progress to walking around traffic only after your puppy is comfortable watching or
ignoring the traffic when you and he have been sitting or standing still.
It is advisable to work toward oncoming traffic when you first start, placing yourself
between the traffic and the puppy.
Teach your puppy to ride calmly in vehicles
Guide Dog puppies need to ride calmly and comfortably in vehicles. Once a puppy has
returned to Guide Dogs for formal training, it is almost impossible to improve his carriding behavior problems. The responsibility is on the raiser to adequately socialize the
puppy to car transportation.
Vehicle riding behavior problems may be caused by a variety of reasons:
Poor experiences during the first few trips may frighten the puppy.
2/2003
Section 6-2
Socialization
The puppy slips and bumps as the car turns or breaks.

The crate holding the puppy slides or rolls.
His first car trips are only to the veterinarian or a kennel.
He is regularly exposed to driving practices that frighten him, such as sharp turns,
sudden braking, bursts of speed or the vehicle bottoms out, scraping metal
against pavement.
He's involved in a car accident.
The puppy got his foot, tail, etc., closed in the door.
Some puppies have naturally "soft" temperaments.
They inherently do not have the self-confidence to overcome different challenges.
Even with the best efforts, some riding problems cannot be cured.
The rules for teaching car riding:
Gradually introduce your puppy to car riding.

Introduce him step-by-step, as in other socialization experiences.
Do not introduce your puppy to car riding soon after it has eaten. This can cause
discomfort and lead to the habit of vomiting during the trip. Make sure the pup has
plenty of time to digest his meal and plenty of opportunity to relieve before any trips.
Do not cuddle or soothe a puppy when he is behaving in an excited manner.
Try not to get angry or upset if the puppy gets frantic or sick.
Don't advance to the next step until the puppy is completely calm with the step he is
on.
Do not attempt to force the responses you want.
If the puppy is not traveling in a crate, he should be on a leash while traveling in a
vehicle.
If you are the driver, take someone else in the car to control the puppy. Until well
settled, the puppy (on the floor) should be accompanied by a handler who can ensure
his stability and manners.
Control the puppy with his leash if he bolts or attempts to move around within the
vehicle.
Praise all calm behaviors.
Use the "steps method" to teach appropriate vehicle riding
We have outlined a nine-step approach to exposing your puppy to vehicle riding. Here are
some points to consider during this process:
The puppy should ride in a specific 'place' and not be allowed to move about in the
vehicle. This can be in a crate or on the floor in front of a seat (not in the front if the
vehicle has a passenger side air bag). See 3-5 Trains, planes and automobiles:
Transportation of program and career change dogs in section 3: Caring for your
puppy.
It's important that the surface the puppy is on is not slick so the puppy has traction
and won't slip.
Expose the puppy GRADUALLY to noises and experiences inside the vehicle that may
startle him or cause discomfort - radio, heater, or air conditioner. Hot air suddenly
blasting on a puppy's back could be a reason for him not wanting to get into the car
next time.
Steps one through three (below) are meant to return 'home' as a positive destination.
Keep in mind that other destinations also need to be positive. If the puppy's first few
trips are to the veterinarian for his 'shots' only, his early impressions of a car-trip
2/2003
Section 6-2
Socialization
may be negative. Early in his socialization, be certain that you make it fun to arrive,
no matter where you're going.
When traveling by car, always keep in mind your puppy's manners. Don't allow him to
stick his head out of the window, crawl all over the seats, bolt into or out of the
vehicle, etc.
Using the "steps" process
No matter what the reason for the behavior, the steps of exposure are the same.
Do not move to the next step until the puppy is consistently relaxed with the present
step. Consistent means five to ten repetitions.
If a puppy has trouble when moving to a new step, go back to the previous step for a
longer period of time.
Closely observe the puppy's behavior when going to a new step. This is a common
time for problems to arise.
Resist the temptation to rush through a stage. No harm will come by progressing
slowly - but problems can develop by going too fast.
If problems continue, contact your leader for help.
Steps of exposure to vehicle riding

Step 1: Introductions - "Meet Mr. Car"
Engine off. Allow puppy to investigate vehicle. Enter vehicle and put puppy in his 'place'
(crate or spot on floor). Stay in vehicle with the puppy about five minutes or until he
settles down. Praise him a lot and make it fun! Exit vehicle when pup has been still and
quiet.
Step 2: "Mr. Car makes noise and vibrates"
Engine off. Enter vehicle; puppy sits in place. Pause (1-2 minutes). Engine on. Stay in
vehicle five minutes. Praise. Engine off. Stay in vehicle one minute. Exit.
Step 3: "We're moving"
Engine off. Enter vehicle and put puppy in place. Pause one minute. Engine on. Stationary
one minute. Short (around the block), cautious ride ("cautious" means smooth, gradual
accelerations, braking and turns). Praise, praise, praise return home. Engine off.
Stationary one minute - exit.
Step 4: "Are we there yet?"
Engine off. Enter vehicle and put puppy in place, pause a moment. Engine on. Stationary
30 seconds to one minute. Cautious ride for 10 to 15 minutes with pleasant destination
(grandma's, friend's home). Engine off, pause - exit. Repeat procedure for trip home.
Step 5: "Still going"
Trip home, engine off. Enter vehicle, put puppy in place, pause a moment. Engine on.
Stationary pause. Cautious ride for 15 to 30 minutes. Pleasant destination. Engine off,
pause - exit. Repeat procedure for at least several days (until he is consistently
comfortable).
Step 6: "Hard to keep your balance"

2/2003
Section 6-2
Socialization
Engine off. Enter vehicle and put puppy in place. Turn engine on. Stationary pause.
Cautious ride for about five minutes. Normal ride for 10 to 15 minutes ("normal" means
normal braking, accelerating and turning, not crazy). Destination - engine off, pause exit. IMPORTANT: Evaluate any change in behavior with normal ride. Problems?
Immediately go back to cautious ride.
Step 7: "But it's running!"
Engine on. Door open. Approach from a distance (at least 10 yards). Allow puppy to
investigate. IMPORTANT: Evaluate any change in behavior. Problems? - Engine off, allow
puppy to investigate repeat procedure - Enter vehicle, put pup in place, pause. Normal
ride for 30 minutes to one hour. Destination - engine on. Pause for a moment - exit with
engine on.
Step 8: "Is this a foreign or domestic?"

Repeat Step 4 with a different vehicle.
Step 9: "I'm a traveling pupmade a lot of stops"

Repeat Steps 5 through 7 with various vehicles.
Riding in vehicles? "No problem!"
Please realize that progress sometimes can be slow. DON'T GET DISCOURAGED! Give
your puppy your best effort and be proud of it.
Key concepts to remember:
Introduce new vehicles to your puppy without rushing. Allow the puppy to investigate
or observe the vehicle before entering.
If the puppy seems worried, enter the vehicle with the engine NOT running. The
puppy must be comfortable without the engine running before it can be relaxed with
the engine.
PRAISE your puppy for accepting the vehicle and riding quietly.
CONTROL your puppy if he is trying to bolt through the doors or moving around a lot
while riding. Manners while riding are a must when on crowded city buses and light
rail trains.
Take your time in gaining a puppy's confidence around a running motor if it shows
fear. Do NOT try to force the puppy closer than its "comfort zone" allows. COMFORT
ZONE is the distance from the vehicle that your pup is comfortable.
Continually look for opportunities to give your puppy exposure to a variety of
vehicles, not just your one family car.
Negative behaviors to watch for and report to your leader:
Tenseness
Shaking
Dripping from nose
Drooling
Vomiting
Excessive panting
Resistance to entering the car
Attempts to climb out of the car
2/2003
Section 6-2
Socialization
Attempts to hide in the car
Remember these safety rules:
Do not allow your puppy to ride in the front seat or on the front floorboard of a car
equipped with passenger-side air bags.
Give the puppy a safe place to ride in the vehicle (crate, on-leash or tie-down).
Do not leave your puppy unattended in a vehicle.
Do not roll windows down so far that the puppy could potentially escape from a
moving or stationary vehicle.
Do not allow puppies the potential to interfere with your driving by leaving them
loose in the vehicle or unattended by another person while you drive.
Never permit your Guide Dog puppy to ride loose in the back of a pickup truck.
When you take your puppy out, weather may be an important factor. If it is
very uncomfortable for you, it can be dangerous for your puppy. During hot
weather, his footpads can be burned by very hot pavement. Puppies can over-heat and
dehydrate quickly. It is best for your puppy to "lay low" during the hottest hours of a
summer day. Remember to provide plenty of fresh, cool water. Early signs of heat stress
in your dog may include lethargy, excessive panting, anxious behavior and dark red
gums. A cool water soak for your dog can reduce his body temperature after playing too
hard in hot weather.
In a parked car, temperatures can rise to dangerous levels within a few minutes. NEVER
LEAVE YOUR PUPPY ALONE IN A CAR. The safest and surest way to protect your dog is
by leaving him at home in a reliably cool setting whenever the temperature is too high.
Teach your puppy to be calm when examined by the veterinarian
Encourage your pup to act friendly towards strangers (the vet) and accept their touch
by PRAISING your pup for allowing other people to touch his entire body.
If your pup is not relaxed with YOU touching all parts of his body, don't expect him to
accept a stranger doing so.
Practice examining your puppy as a part of daily grooming.
Remember also to regularly do your puppy handling exercises.
Use your leash and collar to gain control if your puppy is too friendly or too excited.
Start by having him sit and stay while people approach, go past him but do not touch
him. Remember to correct as he BEGINS to wiggle.
Once he can control himself when being approached, begin allowing people to lightly
touch him, remembering to leash and collar correct if he tries to get up or leave.
Once he will sit still for light touches, allow people to gradually begin "examining"
him more thoroughly.
Finally, when he is comfortable being examined while sitting, repeat the procedure
while he is standing (it may take several sessions before you can practice this exercise
while he is standing).
PRAISE your pup for the correct behavior WHILE he is being examined.
2/2003
Section 6-2
Socialization
If the vet wants to feed your dog a tidbit "JUST SAY NO", and inform them that your
pup must not take food from the hand. He may only take food out of a bowl. Use a
bowl for the tidbit if a vet wants to give one to your puppy after examining him.
2/2003
Section 6-2
Socialization
6-3 COMMANDS
Preparing your puppy to learn commands
Puppy handling
In order to become a better dog trainer you need to improve your skills as you teach your
puppy. You will find that the puppy will progress as much at your speed as at his. We
have all seen an experienced dog handler take a puppy and control it easily after
someone else - even the dog's owner - has had problems trying to make it mind properly.
The trainer is successful not because he possesses a magic wand that he secretly passes
over the puppy's head. He is successful because he has developed dog-handling skills
that are more effective than those of the beginner. By combining these physical skills
with the psychological concepts of training, everyone can improve their training
techniques.
Training commands for raisers

The following commands should be preceded by the puppy's name. For example, "Juno,
Let's go or Juno, Come".
1. Sit: The command to use as you make your puppy place his rear haunches on
the floor.
2. Down: The command to use as you make your puppy lie on the ground.
3. Stand: The command to use as you gently require your puppy to stand quietly
for grooming.
4. Let's go: The command to use as you require the puppy to walk on your left
side on a loose leash. Keep the leash loose by using leash and collar corrections
when he tries to pull.
5. Come: The command to use as you cause your puppy to come close enough to
you to allow you to gently grasp his collar. Be sure to praise him every time he
comes to you and allows you to grasp his collar.
6. Stay: The command to use when you make your puppy remain in a specific
spot and position until you release him with the command word OK.
7. Wait: The command to use when you make your puppy refrain from entering or
exiting vehicles or going out a door until he has received your permission (you say
OK).
The following commands do not have to be used with the pup's name. At times, however,
it may still be useful to use your puppy's name to get his attention and to let him know
that you are speaking to him.
8. OK: The command to use when you want to release your puppy from any prior
command (Puppy, Sit...OK). Remember not to release your puppy by praising him.
Instead release him with OK, and then praise him.
9. Kennel: The command to use as you place your puppy in a crate, tell him to
enter a vehicle or small space, such as under a table or between seats on the bus.
2/2003
Section 6-3
Commands
10. That's enough: The command phrase to use as you make your puppy stop
playing or stop being too active. If he doesn't want to stop when you use That's
enough, use a leash and collar correction followed by an enforced Sit until he
calms down.
11. Good-dog, boy/girl: The commands to use when you want to praise your
puppy. When used with the correct tone and enthusiasm, the puppy will feel
pleasure when he hears praise.
12. Do your business: The command phrase to use when you wish your puppy to
relieve. After he has learned what the command means, its use will indicate to the
puppy that now is the time and here is the place to relieve himself.
OK
Appropriate age: Your puppy can begin to learn this command at 8 weeks. By the time
he is 3 months old, he should be able to obey this command consistently.
Purpose: Dogs that are acting on a command need to know when they are no longer
required to perform the action. The command OK releases them from the action. By
giving a command, it becomes the handler's decision to end the exercise and not the
dogs.
Objective: When the command OK is given, the puppy will discontinue obeying a
previously given command.
Procedure:
Use this command at the end of all exercises in which you have told your dog to do
something. Examples: Sit, Down, Stay, Stand, Come.
When you no longer need or want the dog to perform the exercise, give the command
OK.
Induce the dog to get up or move out of the position required for the exercise. Once
the dog is no longer performing the exercise, praise.
Always end exercises with a command. Do not allow the puppy to decide on his own
when the exercise is over.
The puppy should remain under control even though he has been released from a
command. No lunging, pulling, inappropriate play or vocalization should be allowed.
Thats enough
Appropriate Age: Your puppy can begin to learn this command at 8 weeks. By the time
Purpose: Puppies need to learn that there are some kinds of behavior, such as play, that
are acceptable but must be stopped on command. Use Thats enough to stop play or
other acceptable behavior.
Objective: When playing, the puppy should stop the play and not solicit more play
when the command Thats enough is given.
Procedure:
Introduction
2/2003
Section 6-3
Commands
To introduce your puppy to this command, put his leash on and then play calmly with
him for a brief period using hand play (interactive play). It is best to get to the
puppys level by sitting on the floor or in a chair.
To stop the play, give the command Thats enough and remove yourself from the
puppy by standing up.
When the puppy stops the play as you stand, calmly praise him but dont touch him.
If the puppy does not respond and continues to solicit play, further remove yourself
by walking away or use a leash and collar correction for rough or overly solicitous
attempts to promote more play from you.
After a brief rest period, resume play with the puppy and then repeat the process.
You want the puppy to understand that play is permitted and that you control the
activity, but it must stop on command. To accomplish this, the cycle of play, then
stopping play, must be repeated several times in each training session.
As your puppy progresses

Play with your puppy, using hand play or tug-of-war. As usual, the puppys leash
should be attached to his collar.
Before the puppy is tired of the play, end the play session. Give the verbal command
Thats enough. If the puppy continues to play, immediately follow with a leash or
collar correction to stop the play. If the puppy does not respond to the correction
and continues to solicit play, repeat the correction until the play is stopped.
Praise the puppy for stopping the play.
If the puppy solicits play after pausing, repeat both the command and correction.
After a brief rest period, resume play with your puppy and repeat the process.
When your puppys play becomes too rough or rowdy use a leash or collar correction
to stop the play. Immediately return to calm play after the rough behavior stops. The
puppy needs to learn that playing is acceptable, but rough play is not. If you correct
a puppy to stop rough play and dont return to acceptable play, the puppy will
interpret this as a correction for any play.
Always remove the tug toy from your puppys access after you have ended a play
session.
Summary:
Puppies often like to play much longer than do people. Since playing is an acceptable
activity at appropriate times, it is necessary to teach a puppy that it must stop play on
command. The command to use in this situation is Thats enough. It should be taught
in training sessions, not just at the end of regular play sessions. This is different from
teaching a puppy that an activity is not acceptable, for which we use leash and collar
corrections. This command is not to be used as a verbal correction; i.e. a substitute for
no. It is a command used to stop allowable behaviors. (See 5-4 Know about no).
The calming and hand-placed sit

Appropriate age: Your puppy can begin to learn this command at 8 weeks. By the
time he is 3 to 4 months old, he should be advancing to sit on command.
Purpose: To condition and prepare the puppy for sit on command.
2/2003
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Commands
Objective: The puppy should learn the association between the command Sit and the
placement of its body in the sitting position.
Procedure:
Start in a quiet, non-distracting situation

Sit on the floor with your puppy in front of you. Be sure that the pup has good
footing and that the surface is not slippery.
Begin by calming yourself. Your puppy can pick up on your anxiety or frustration. He
can also recognize your calmness, confidence, and control. He will mimic the
attitudes he senses in you.
Place your puppy in the standing position facing away from you, between your legs
spread in a V pattern or sit on your knees. Put the puppy as close to your body as
possible. In this way he cant back away from you.
Grasp the puppy's flat collar over the neck with one hand.
Always use a soft calm voice when you speak to your pup. Do not use your voice to
correct him. Keep talking to your puppy throughout the exercise, teaching him to
relax.
Place your other hand behind the pup's rump. Gently tuck the puppy's legs
underneath him while applying gentle upward pressure on the collar.
As the puppy is placed into the sitting position, say the word Sit in a normal tone of
voice. Do not raise the volume of your voice or change its tone to sound like either a
correction or praise.
Move your hand from under the rump to above the tail. As long as the puppy
remains sitting, apply no downward pressure to the hind end. The hand is there as a
reminder that he should remain sitting. You may use the hand to prevent the pup
from standing. Slowly relax the upward pressure from the collar.
Verbally praise the puppy calmly yet with enthusiasm. You want the puppy to know
that he's right (even though you did all the work!).
Don't let your puppy stand up the moment he sits down - keep him sitting there for a
few moments.
When ending the exercise, give the release command of OK as you allow or induce the
puppy to get up.
Do not verbally correct the puppy. You want the pup to remain as comfortable and
calm with the situation as possible.
As your puppy relaxes and calms, begin to manipulate his various body parts: lift his
feet and examine his toes and nails; lift his ears (Labs, Goldens and Lab/Golden
crosses) and gently place your finger inside the ear canal; reposition his head and
look into his eyes; hold and manipulate his tail. Regularly return to the slow, calm
stroking to keep the puppy relaxed.
Place a finger inside the puppys mouth and gently massage his gums. With the
mouth closed, raise the pups lips on each side and inspect his teeth and gums. Open
his mouth and visually inspect his teeth and gums on the inside.
Gradually increase the length of sessions from an initial few minutes to as much as
five minutes as the pups confidence and maturity grow.
Practice this exercise several times a day.
Summary:
Teaching your puppy the association between the command Sit and the placement of his
body into the sit will enhance his ability to quickly learn the sit on command. Making
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Commands
this a pleasant experience for your puppy will make him willing and eager to please you,
and in the process it will make it a fun experience for yourself.
Sit on command
Appropriate age: Your puppy can begin to learn this command at 8 weeks. By the time
he is 5 months old, he should be able to obey this command consistently. Your puppy
should be thoroughly familiar and comfortable with the hand-placed sit before beginning
this exercise.
Purpose:
Guide Dogs need the ability to sit calmly, without moving, while waiting for their
partners.
Objective:
The puppy will learn to sit in place, unaided, with a single command and without moving
or lying down, while on-leash.
Procedure:
First, you and your puppy must be proficient at the hand-placed sit, coupled with the
command.
Place the leash in your right hand. Hold the leash at the clip on the collar.
Give the command Sit in a normal tone of voice. Do not raise the volume of your
voice or change its tone to sound like either a correction or praise. Most important,
say it only once.
When you are first teaching this exercise, you may cue your puppy with a light touch
on the rump. Do not apply pressure or push the rump down. If you use this cue, give
it at the same time you say the command Sit.
If your pup has been well conditioned with the hand-placed sit, he probably will
immediately plunk his rump on the ground. If he doesnt respond within two
seconds, give a light pop-and-release correction straight upwards with the leash and
firmer pressure with your left hand on his rump.
If your puppy still does not sit, do not repeat the command Sit. Give a firmer upward
correction with the leash and increase the correction and hand pressure on your
puppys rump until he sits.
Once your puppy is sitting, verbally praise the puppy calmly yet with enthusiasm.
You may also give calm and quiet physical praise. Let your puppy know he's right.
If your puppy decides to lift his bottom off of the ground before you say OK, then
give another light upward pop-and-release correction with the leash. Repeat the
command Sit at this time. You want your puppy to learn that when on-leash, he can't
get up until you say he can. Pay very close attention to your pup - you want to catch
him in this mistake as he starts to make it. If he manages to get all the way into a
stand, then start the sit exercise over and pay better attention the next time.
If your puppy starts to lie down, use the same technique as above to correct the
problem. Again, make your correction as he first starts to lie down, not after he's
made it to the floor. If you have trouble making him rise, take a step forward to bring
him up with you and start over.
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Commands
puppy to get up. Later, he may be taught to rise and move forward with the Lets go
or other command.
Don't expect your puppy to sit for long periods of time on slippery surfaces. His feet
will slide out from under him and he will have to work at staying in a sit. Until the
puppy really knows what is expected of him, this is uncomfortable and also unfair.
Remember to stay calm and relaxed through the training session. Use the leash to
make your corrections, not your voice. Keep your voice in a normal tone when giving
commands, and give calm verbal praise.
Each time your puppy sits when he is told, he must be praised. Praise as eagerly as
you can, but not so much that he excitedly breaks his sit.
Summary:
Through consistent handling and training, your puppy will quickly learn to sit on a single
command. Do not use a raised or corrective tone of voice when giving the command. If
you do, your puppy will quickly learn that he only has to sit when you get mad. Give
corrections as the puppy starts to make a mistake, not after the inappropriate action is
completed. And above all, stay calm and focused on what you are trying to accomplish.
Make this training session an enjoyable one for both you and your puppy!
Lay-over
Appropriate Age: Your puppy can begin this exercise at 8 to 12 weeks. At
approximately 10 weeks of age, begin transition to the hand-placed down. By the time
he is 4 to 6 months old, he should be advancing to the down stay.
Purpose:
This exercise introduces the puppy to the down position and also helps teach him the
proper relationship between people and himself.
Objective:
The puppy will remain calm and compliant for a period of time while on the floor in
front of the handler.
Before attempting this exercise, it is best to obtain personal instruction with your
puppy from your leader, CFR or other qualified person.
Procedure:
Sit on the floor.

Place your puppy, sitting, on the floor or table in front of you.
With the puppy facing forward (as in the calming sit exercise), place your right
hand, fingers pointing down, on the puppys right shoulder. Loop your thumb
through the collar.
Pass your left hand underneath the pups left front leg and gently but firmly grasp his
right elbow and upper arm.
Gently and slowly roll the puppy onto his right side keeping hold of his elbow and
moving his leg out. Holding his elbow this way will prevent him from getting his leg
underneath him, which would give him leverage to resist being placed, and kept, in a
down position.
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If the pup does manage to stand up, place him back into a sit and lay him over again,
keeping calm and quiet as you do so.
As the pup lies on his right side, legs pointing away from you, keep your thumb or
fingers through the collar to maintain control and keep the pup on the floor. If the
puppy struggles, calmly and firmly restrain him. Keep hold of his left elbow to
prevent him from getting his leg underneath him.
If your pup growls, mouths, or becomes excited while on the floor or table, use a
collar correction to stop the inappropriate behavior. Do not pull your hand away if
the puppy attempts to mouth it; use a collar correction to stop the behavior.
As the puppy begins to settle and calm, use your voice in a quiet, confident tone to
praise and support the improved behavior. Refrain from using verbal corrections
such as no.
After the pup begins to relax, use the left hand that was holding his elbow, to gently
stroke him. Use long, slow motions down the length of his body.
At the age of 8 weeks, the pup should only be expected to lie quietly for 15 to 30
seconds. By the age of 10 weeks, the puppy should be able to lie quietly and calmly
for several minutes. Do not push the pup to his limit each time you do the exercise.
Never let him up if he is struggling. Periodically allow the puppy to successfully
complete the exercise by ending it before he has reached his limit.
puppy to get up.
Repeat this exercise two to four times, depending on the puppy's progress. You may
play with the pup or work on other exercises between rounds. It is also helpful,
especially when the pup is very young, to have lay-over sessions two or more times
per day.
Be sure to work on both sides of the puppy with this slow, smooth, stroking
technique. To place him on his left side reverse the procedure above.
Summary:
Through calm, quiet and confident handling and verbal reinforcement, you can teach
your pup to lie calmly and quietly. The ability to lie quietly in many different situations is
essential in a Guide Dog. The younger this ability is taught, the easier it will be for the
puppy to learn and accept it.
Hand-placed down
Appropriate Age: Your puppy can begin to learn this command at 10 weeks. By the
time he is 4 to 6 months old, he should be advancing to down on command.
Purpose:
To condition and prepare the puppy to down on command
Objective:
The puppy will learn to associate the command Down with the placement of its body in
the down position.
Procedure:
Sit or kneel on the floor with your puppy. Place your puppy in a sitting position next
to your left leg facing forward.
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Place your left hand, fingers pointing down, on the puppys left shoulder and hook
your thumb through the puppys collar. With your right hand gently grasp the
puppys right foreleg.
As you push on the pups shoulder with your left hand, slowly pull his right leg
forward; he will fold into a down position. Say Down in a normal tone of voice as you
do this. Do not repeat the command.
Move your right hand to his collar and hold it lightly to prevent him from getting up.
If the puppy tries to get up firmly hold onto the collar and hold him in position,
keeping your left hand and forearm on his shoulder area will help.
Gently and slowly stroke him with your left hand while he maintains his position.
Praise him calmly and quietly.
Do not allow the puppy to stand or sit immediately after he is placed down. Expect
him to remain for a few moments.
Release your puppy with an OK command, or later with a Lets go or other command.
Do not verbally correct the pup if he tries to get up, just calmly place him back into
position and praise him quietly when he is still. If he rises, you may repeat the
command.
Down on command
Appropriate Age: Your puppy can begin to learn this command at 4 to 7 months. By
the time he is 6 months old, he should be able to obey this command consistently. Your
puppy should be thoroughly familiar and comfortable with the hand-placed down
before beginning this exercise.
Purpose:
Guide Dogs need the ability to lie calmly in place, without moving, while waiting for their
partners.
Objective:
The puppy will learn to lie down, from a sit or a stand, unaided, with a single command
and without moving or getting up, while on-leash.
Procedure:
First, you and your puppy should display efficiency with the Sit command before
teaching the down on command.
With your puppy's leash attached to his collar, have your puppy sitting on your left
side, facing the same direction as you, with his shoulder next to your left leg.
Place the leash in your right hand. Hold the leash at the snap on the collar.
Give the command Down in a normal tone of voice. Do not raise the volume of your
voice or change its tone to sound like either a correction or praise. Most important,
say it only once.
When you are first teaching this exercise, you may cue your puppy with a light touch
on his shoulder area. If you use this cue, give it at the same time you say the
command Down.
If your pup has been well conditioned with the hand-placed down, he probably will
immediately lie down. If he doesn't respond within two seconds, give a light tug with
the leash straight down, under his chin. To accomplish this you will need to hold the
leash at the snap on the collar. As long as he is moving steadily downward, you don't
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need to correct again. It is important that he respond quickly to the command, but he
doesn't need to lie down quickly as long as he keeps moving.
For the exercise to be complete, both elbows must be on the ground.
If your puppy still does not down, give a firmer straight down correction with the
leash and direct his body to the ground with firm pressure on his shoulders until the
puppy responds by lying down.
Once your puppy is down, verbally praise the puppy calmly yet with enthusiasm.
You may also give calm and quiet physical praise. Let your puppy know he's right.
If your puppy decides to get up before you say OK, then give another light downward
pop-and-release correction with the leash. You may repeat the command at this time.
You want your puppy to learn that when on-leash, he can't get up until you say he
can. Pay very close attention to your pup - you want to catch him in this mistake as
he begins to make it. If he manages to get all the way into a sit or a stand, then start
the down exercise over. Pay better attention the next time.
puppy to get up. As he learns other commands, such as Lets go, you can also use
these to release him.
If the puppy rolls over on his side to get more comfortable, that's ok. He may do this
once. But if the puppy rolls again, then get him up and start the exercise over.
Puppies often will roll around or on their backs in play or in an effort to avoid doing
the exercise. Sometimes this is a submissive gesture in puppies, rather than
playfulness or avoiding the exercise. Tucking his tail, laying back his ears or
softening his eyes may be signs of submissiveness.
If your puppy creeps forward, give a pop-and-release correction towards his back end,
level with the floor. If you allow a puppy to creep forward for any reason other than
one stretch to get comfortable, they will quickly learn that they can take advantage of
the situation to get where they want. It can also make the down stay more difficult to
teach.
Remember to stay calm and relaxed through the training session. Use the leash to
make your corrections, not your voice. Keep your voice in a normal tone when giving
commands, and give calm verbal praise.
If your puppy knows the command but refuses to comply
Place your puppy on your left side, sitting, facing the same direction as you.
Stand beside your pup.
Hold your puppy's leash at the collar with your right hand and place your left hand
over his shoulder blades, controlling his body.
Give the command Down (in a normal tone of voice) and immediately give a straight
pop-and-release correction followed by a steady and continuous pull toward the
ground but at a slight angle. At the same time you continually and steadily push his
shoulders to the ground. The angle will help unbalance the pup and make it harder
for him to resist going down. Do not release the pressure of your collar pull or
shoulder push until he is lying down. As soon as the puppy is fully on the ground,
praise him sincerely.
Don't immediately release him from your control. A foot on the leash and/or a strong
but calming hand on his back will help him stay in position. Talk to him calmly and
soothingly to help him relax. Keep him in the down position for a few moments
before you release him.
Repeat the exercise.
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Summary:
Through consistent handling and training, your puppy will quickly learn to down on a
single command. Some puppies will be less willing to accept the position of down than
others. Do not use a raised or corrective tone of voice when giving the command. If you
do, your puppy will not learn to respond to a normal tone of voice. Give corrections as
the puppy begins to make a mistake, not after the inappropriate action is completed.
And above all, stay calm and focused on what you are trying to accomplish. Make this
training session an enjoyable one for both you and your puppy!
Stand
Purpose:
Guide Dogs often need to stand calmly while being groomed, examined, or having their
harness placed on them. This exercise prepares them to stand in place while being
handled.
Objective:
The puppy will learn to stand in place without moving, sitting or lying down.
Procedure:
While walking along slowly with the puppy on your left side shorten the leash in your
right hand by taking hold of it closer to the pups collar.
At the same time reach over the puppys back and place your left hand on his outside
leg, palm flat against his stifle (the round bony part at the front, just below where his
leg joins his flank).
Putting just enough pressure on his leg to stop forward movement, say the command
Stand in a normal tone of voice as you come to a halt. If the puppy tries to sit pull
gently forward on the leash, parallel to the ground. Praise the puppy calmly but
sincerely; you want him to know that he is right.
Once the puppy is standing still, remove your hand from his leg and gently rub his
tummy; this will help keep him standing. Do not grab or try to hold the puppy up
under his stomach; this is a sensitive area and rough handling could make him
fearful.
Should he try to sit, put light pressure on the leash forward and place your hand back
on his stifle to prevent him from bending his leg. Forward pressure on the leash and
gentle pressure on his leg will hold him in a standing position.
To get the puppy into a standing position from a sit, lead him forward with the leash
and put your left hand on his stifle once he is up, saying Stand as you do so.
Keep your pup standing for a few moments. Gradually increase the length of time
that hes expected to stay standing.
As your pup becomes familiar with the exercise, a light touch on his stifle, along with
the command, will be enough to position him, and an occasional stroke on his tummy
will remind him to keep standing.
If your puppy tries to move out of position calmly hold him there as described above.
Do not correct him verbally or physically; just place him in the position and praise.
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For wiggly puppies doing this next to a wall, with the puppy between you and the
wall, will help him understand what is required.
When your pup is very familiar with the exercise, you may begin to do handling
exercises similar to those in the calming sit. Eventually, you may also stand up
yourself and expect him to remain standing.
Summary:
Teaching your puppy to stand calmly while being examined will greatly reduce the stress
of your puppy's visits to the veterinarian. It will also increase your pup's confidence and
reliability when handled by others for grooming, examinations or when equipment is
placed on him. Teaching this exercise at a young age will reduce the difficulty of getting a
big dog to stand when he's "not in the mood." Calm, confident handling and praise will
reduce both the length of time it takes the pup to learn the exercise as well as the
difficulty of teaching it.
Lets go
Appropriate Age: Your puppy can be introduced to the leash 8 weeks to 10 weeks.
Between the ages of 9 weeks to 10 months, he should be learning the command. By the
time he is 5 months old, he should be able to obey this command consistently.
Purpose:
Guide Dogs must be able to walk calmly and under control beside the handler in all
situations.
Objective:
The puppy should learn to walk calmly and under control at your left side, without
lunging or pulling, in all types of distracting situations.
Procedure:
Introduction to the leash:

The primary purpose of your first sessions with your puppy on-leash will be to teach him
awareness of you as a handler and to get him accustomed to the leash. Encourage the
puppy to focus his attention on you. Work to develop "collar response" in your new
puppy. Start with your 8-week-old puppy on-leash in an environment that is not very
distracting, such as your lawn, large open room, etc.
With your puppy on-leash, go for a "stroll". If the puppy lunges forward, runs toward
distractions, or gets upset with the restriction of the collar and leash, give a light popand-release correction to stop this behavior. Remember that the correction is meant
to stop the behavior, not relocate the puppy to where you want him.
If he gets upset with the restriction of the collar and leash, calmly wait out the
struggles by applying firm, steady pressure to the collar and leash until he relaxes.
Don't pull - just wait, applying steady pressure until he relaxes. Praise him when he
calms.
After the correction is made, the response you want is for the puppy to look back at
you and acknowledge your presence. When he does, praise the puppy. Let him know
he's right. If the puppy moves toward you, all the better. You can add physical praise
as well. The puppy is now learning that staying close to you is correct.
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As your puppy becomes more familiar with the responses that are correct and
expected, you can venture further into the world. Short, leisurely walks in the
neighborhood are appropriate. Avoid going places that will be too stimulating for the
puppy - where he is unable to periodically focus back on you.
Learning the Let's go command:
The puppy now has a good idea that he is not allowed to pull at the leash, and that you
want him to be aware of where you are and what you are doing. You have taught the
puppy this by praising him when he responds to and acknowledges you. Now you can
teach him that he must always be aware of you and never pull at the leash.
As your puppy grows, proper leash technique will become more important. Hold the
leash in your left hand so that the leash remains slack between your left hand and the
collar when the pup is next to your left side. If there is any tension on the leash or
collar, you are not using the correct technique.
You may put the balance of the leash in your right hand, but be aware in some
circumstances that this may restrict your ability to make effective corrections. You
may also fold the handle end of the leash and carry it in your left hand. Do not wrap
the leash around your hand.
Position the puppy on your left side, facing the same direction as you. A good
position from which to start is with the puppy's right shoulder next to your left leg.
You may start with the puppy standing or sitting.
Give the command Let's go in an enthusiastic voice. Walk forward. If the puppy does
not step out with you, give a light forward pop-and-release correction with the leash.
Be sure that the correction is made forward and parallel with the direction you are
going. As the dog responds, immediately praise the puppy to get him to maintain
focus on you.
The puppy does not have to maintain an exact position next to you. The primary
objective is for the puppy to remain close to you and in control. However, it is usually
easier to maintain control and keep the pup's attention when the puppy stays back
with his shoulder next to your leg. When the puppy is ahead of you, his mind is often
elsewhere and it makes it more difficult for him to know when you are turning,
stopping, or changing pace.
Most puppies will want to move too far forward and, if allowed, will pull and strain at
the leash and collar. To prevent this, you must give timely pop-and-release leash
corrections.
If the puppy begins to move too far forward, with your left hand give a leash
correction backwards and parallel to the puppy's body. Do not wait until the puppy
has already pulled forward to tighten the leash - make the correction as the puppy
starts to move too far out of position.
If the puppy does not respond to the first correction, give another, firmer correction.
It does no good to give repeated, ineffective corrections. Increase the firmness of the
correction until it is effective.
If the puppy does reach the end of the leash or the collar tightens, you will need to
put slack in the leash before you can make another correction. You can do this by
moving in the direction of the puppy to get slack in the leash and then make the
correction. Do not just pull the pup back towards you - make sure you get an effective
correction.
If the puppy drifts away to your left, give a leash correction to the right, across and in
front of you.
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If the puppy lags behind you, read your puppy's attitude to determine if the problem
is that he is worried about something or just not paying attention.
If the pup's ears are pinned back, the tail is low or between the legs, your puppy may
be worried about something. If this appears to be the case, use a positive and
confident voice to encourage the puppy to keep up with you. Do not use a reassuring
voice or tone.
A light forward leash correction may be appropriate, but be aware that with some
concerned or worried puppies a correction can be counter-productive. If the puppy is
just not paying attention, give a leash correction forward and encourage the puppy to
keep up.
Do not give an upward correction for mistakes in this exercise - an upward correction
is for sit, not Let's go.
Unlike many basic pet obedience classes, it is not required or encouraged that your
puppy automatically sit when you come to a halt. The puppy may remain standing,
but should stay close to your side and under control at all times.
If the puppy continues to walk forward when you come to a halt, give a leash
correction backward as described earlier, as you are slowing to a stop. Do not wait to
give the correction after you are stopped and the puppy is three feet in front of you.
The puppy should stop with you.
Whenever the puppy is doing a good job - maintaining position next to you,
maintaining focus on you and not pulling or lunging forward, let him know through
regular praise that he is right. Use an enthusiastic voice. Remember that there is a
difference between enthusiasm and volume - a loud voice is not necessary to express
enthusiasm. If you are quiet, boring and not focusing on the puppy, the puppy will be
less likely to maintain his focus on you.
Be aware of where your puppy is and what he is doing at all times. Watch where you
are going and be ready for distractions with which your puppy may have trouble.
Anticipate problems that your puppy may have.
Remember that the corrections you give are not meant to relocate him to the correct
position; they are meant to tell him he's not paying attention to you. The correction
should stop the wrong behavior and the puppy should move back into the correct
position on his own power. Don't drag your puppy around, and don't let your puppy
drag you around.
If you are having problems maintaining control of your puppy, seek help from your
leader and CFR. There are other control techniques that may be appropriate for your
puppy.
Summary:
Properly introducing your puppy to the leash and leash control early will teach the puppy
to focus on you. It will also teach proper collar response. The earlier you begin training
leash control, the easier it will be to control your puppy as he grows. Your puppy should
work on a loose leash at all times. Always pay attention to your puppy - your puppy
won't focus on you if you don't pay attention to him.
Come (The Recall)

Food Rewards for Recall Training
These guidelines are for your puppy as he starts the food induced recall training
program.
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Food reward based training is very successful but consideration must be given to a guide
puppys future responsibilities when utilizing this method. Everything possible must be
done to prevent your puppy being distracted by food. You may have to work harder on
exercises to ensure that your puppy does not assume that he can take food from any
human hand, and to prevent scavenging off the floor. If done correctly, your puppy
trained with food will be well mannered in the presence of food and understand that he
may only accept food from your hand in specific circumstances.
The Food Induced Recall covers the specifics of what, where and when to give the food
reward. Those instructions should be read over before commencing with every step in
the recall training. If you are concerned with your puppys interest in food or you see an
increase in food-distracted behaviors, your leader and CFR should be consulted.
Your puppy should take the food gently when offered. If your puppy is grabbing the
food offer the kibble from a cupped palm rather than between finger and thumb. You
may hold the food in a tight fist and slowly open your hand to present the food. If your
puppy insists on snatching at the food he will benefit from further work on how to take
food appropriately; your leader should be consulted on methods to teach your puppy to
accept food in a reasonable manner.
Your puppy must not be allowed to eat dropped food off the floor.
If food is accidentally dropped, you should step away from the food as quickly as
possible drawing your puppy by the leash or collar and walking backwards. In most
cases of dropped kibble, you will already be holding onto your puppys collar; making
control simple.
While you hold onto the collar with one hand, your other hand can reach behind into
the pouch for another piece of food to offer to your puppy.
Your puppy must not be lured away from the dropped food by you waving another
piece of food at him. The new piece of kibble is given from between your knees as
your puppy is being praised for coming away from the dropped food.
It is wise to step at least 6 feet away from the dropped food before rewarding to
prevent your puppy from darting back to the dropped food.
The dropped piece of food should either be picked up by an assistant or you should
pick it up and place it back in the pouch. You must never offer the piece of dropped
food directly to your puppy.
Bait bags should be made out of cloth or leather and have a way to close them. A simple
pouch, with a Velcro closure and clip, to attach to your belt or waistband, is an
acceptable alternative to a commercially available bait bag. Pockets and plastic or paper
bags are not alternatives to a bait bag or fanny pack. It is preferable that the bait bag is
loaded and attached behind your waistband before getting your puppy out to work it.
We dont want the bait bag to become a cue to your puppy. You should be aware that the
bait bag will become a focal point for your puppy if care is not taken in its handling. It
should be stored well out of your puppys reach and sight when not in use.
The food induced recall has greatly increased the success of our puppies in learning the
Come command and is of tremendous help in preventing keep away issues. With these
guidelines any negative effects of working with food rewards are minimal and are vastly
outnumbered by the positive effects that food reward training brings. If your puppys
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behavior is deteriorating due to food distractions, your leader or CFR should be

consulted as soon as possible. Early intervention is key; your leader can help get your
puppy on the right track and make these exercises successful and enjoyable.
Appropriate Age: The food induced recall should begin as soon as you get your
puppy. He should advance quickly through on-leash food induced recall: phase 1 at 8 to
10 weeks; on-leash food induced recall: phase 2 at 9 weeks to 4 months; two handler
food induced recall at 10 weeks to 5 months; long-line food induced recall at 4 months
to 12 months and off-leash food induced recall at 5 months to 12 months. Puppies will
vary in their response and it is important not to proceed until each step is successfully
accomplished.
Purpose:
It is easy to appreciate how important a reliable recall is to someone that is visually

impaired; at any time, under many different circumstances, it may be necessary to call a
Guide Dog and know that it will come. Remember that a visually impaired person may
not be able to see if the dog is responding to the command to come. It can even be a
safety matter for both dog and handler. This may be the most important exercise your
puppy will learn. The use of food to motivate your puppy to come to you will not only
make teaching this command more successful, but it will also help in avoiding keep
away issues as he matures.
Objective:
Your puppy will reliably and happily come directly to you when called, even with
distractions. The puppy should come close enough for the handler to hold the collar, and
it is desirable for the puppy to gently touch (but not crash into or jump on) the handler.
Equipment:
Flat collar or training collar; this exercise is never taught on a headcollar.

Six foot leash initially. Long lines and drag lines later.
Bait bag or fanny pack that can be attached at the handlers back waistband.
A portion of your puppys regular kibble.
Procedure:
Universal do's and don'ts when teaching the recall:

Do use a calm, pleasant and friendly tone of voice at all times.
Do move calmly and slowly when you need to approach your puppy.
Do use enthusiastic verbal and physical praise when appropriate.
Do praise your puppy for coming to you, even if you were going to him to correct
him.
Do reach for your puppy's collar and praise every time he approaches you. This
conditions your puppy to expect a hand reaching towards him and creates a positive
association with an outstretched hand.
Do not bribe your puppy by waving food at him
Do not call your puppy to you to correct or discipline him.
Do not run after, lunge for or grab at your puppy.
Do not call your puppy to you when you are going to do something he may not like,
such as baths or nail clipping.
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Don't use the word Come unless your puppy is coming to you anyway, or you have a
leash or line attached to cause him to come to you. For daily off leash handling of your
puppy use his name, puppy, puppy, this way or other motivational words to bring the
pup to you. Until your puppy has completed all the steps successfully, the come response is
trained only when he is on leash or a line and you are prepared with food rewards.
Use of Food in the Recall:
It is important that whenever you give your puppy a food reward he receives lots of
verbal and physical praise (petting) just before and during the reward; we want him to
associate the praise with food rewards. The food reinforces the verbal and physical
praise.
Your puppys regular kibble is the only approved food to use on this exercise. If your
puppy is not motivated by his dog food you must talk to your leader; he or she will then
consult with the CFR for advice.
You must take a portion of your puppys daily ration to use for training. This way you
can ensure he is not getting too much food.
While training, the food must be on your person, out of sight of the puppy. A fanny pack
or pouch attached behind you works well. Food may not be stored in pockets. Rustling
plastic bags can create a distraction and should not be used.
Your puppy should only receive one kibble at a time. The kibble should be held between
first finger and thumb or cupped in the palm of your hand when offering to the puppy.
Great care must be taken to ensure the puppy only takes food from your hand. He must
be prevented from getting dropped food off the ground.
The food reward is given from one hand while your other hand holds your puppys
collar. As the food is brought to the puppys mouth the collar must be held onto. This
prevents your puppy from leaving as soon as he gets the food and also prevents him
from getting dropped food off the floor.
The food reward is held between your legs, at knee level or lower depending on the size
of your puppy, so that he must put his head through your legs to reach the food. This
encourages your puppy to make body contact and makes it easy for you to take his
collar.
The food reward is brought to the puppy from out of site where it is hidden in a back
pocket or fanny pack. The only exception to this is in the very beginning stages (see
below) when the puppy may be lured with a single piece of kibble in the hand.
Initiating Taking Food From the Hand:
This exercise is only done the very first time you introduce your puppy to the food induced
recall. Some puppies have difficulty accepting food from the hand and must be shown
how to take and eat the piece of kibble.
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Your puppy must be on leash when you introduce the food. Hold his collar with one
hand (to prevent him from eating dropped food off the floor). Hold one piece of kibble
between finger and thumb in the other hand and put it right in front of the puppys nose,
let him smell it. Praise him when he does and encourage him with your voice to take the
food. He may fumble with his mouth, not sure how to get the food. Gently help him
take the food. Be prepared for him to drop the food a time or two. Lure him away from
dropped food with another piece of kibble.
Some puppies may find it easier to eat the piece of food out of your cupped palm. Try
both ways and see what works best for your puppy.
Repeat several times until your puppy gets the idea of taking a piece of kibble from your
hand and eating it. It will only take a minute for him to get the idea then you can move
on to the recall.
If your puppy grabs your fingers or snatches the food with his teeth, scraping your hand,
speak to your leader or CFR about methods to teach him to take food gently.
On-leash Come: Phase 1:
Do this exercise twice a day for approximately 5 days. In this phase the food is used as a
lure to show your puppy what you want. It is important to dispense with the lure
technique as soon as possible and move on to phase 2. Most puppies will move through
this first step quickly and easily.
Work this exercise with your puppy on-leash. At first you may have to call your
puppy from very close to you, i.e., half a leash length away.
Have a piece of kibble ready in your hand.
Begin in a familiar area with no distractions. Allow your puppy to wander and his
attention to drift. When your puppy is no longer paying attention to you, say the
puppy's name (to help regain his attention) and give the command Come. Say the
command one time only, and use a happy tone of voice.
If your puppy begins to move toward you when the command is given, praise
immediately. If he does not respond immediately, he should be lightly guided toward
you with the leash.
Walking backwards while praising your puppy enthusiastically will encourage him to
keep moving towards you.
Continue to praise as he gets close to you and hold the piece of kibble in front of his
nose, at his level so that he doesnt jump up. Draw him between your ankles or
knees, depending on the size of the puppy, with the kibble and calmly grasp his collar
with your free hand as he eats the food.
Keep praising him verbally and pet him for allowing you to hold onto his collar.
Release the puppy from the exercise with an OK, and allow him to again drift away
from you.
Repeat this exercise several more times. Dont work your puppy for more than a few
minutes at a time.
On-leash Come: Phase 2:
Now your puppy understands he is going to get a food reward for coming to you. From
now on, you need to physically praise your puppy by petting him for a count of ten
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seconds before reaching into your bait bag behind you and giving him a piece of kibble.
The verbal and physical praise will be reinforced with the food reward.
Call your puppy with his name and the command Come.
Gently guide your puppy toward you with his leash if he does not respond.
Praise verbally as soon as he responds and walk backwards encouraging him
toward you.
Calmly take hold of his collar with one hand and pet him with the other hand for
ten seconds, continue to verbally praise him.
After ten seconds of petting, keep hold of the collar with one hand and give your
puppy a food reward; reach into your pouch and lower one kibble between your
ankles/knees to give to him. Praise him as he is eating the kibble then release with
an OK.
As your puppy becomes familiar with the command, begin to add distractions
when training. Start with minor distractions.
When your puppy comes reliably (no leash guidance needed) when on-leash with
minor distractions, begin using more distracting situations. If your puppy has
difficulty bringing his attention back to you, then you are making the situation too
difficult for him reduce the level of distraction so that he can be successful.
Two-handler Come:
This exercise teaches the puppy that he must come to anyone that calls him. It is done
on-leash/line with the handlers about six to ten feet apart. Both handlers should have a
supply of kibble in a fanny pack or bait bag attached behind them.
Handler A should hold the puppy on the ground, facing Handler B'. Handler A
should not pay any attention to the pup; Handler B holds the leash.
Handler B calls the puppy as described in the on-leash recall. When the puppy gets
to Handler B he is given a food reward in the manner described above in phase 2.
The leash is quietly handed to Handler A as the puppy is being praised and petted
by the person who called him. After praising and rewarding the puppy for coming
Handler B becomes calm and uninteresting to the puppy, thus making it easier for
Handler A to get the puppys attention.
Handler B stops the praise and play and faces the puppy toward Handler A.
Handler A then calls the puppy, repeating the exercise. Four or five repetitions are
sufficient.
As the puppy progresses, the handler holding the puppy does not need to face the
puppy towards the other handler, and may eventually keep playing with the puppy as
a distraction.
As in the on-leash recall, if the puppy fails to respond to the command come, he
should be guided by the leash to the person who called him.
Two leashes may be attached to the pup's collar so that the handlers do not have to
pass the leash back and forth.
Never use the puppy as a yo-yo. Allow the puppy time to be adequately praised by
each person participating in the exercise.
Before moving to the next step:
At this point in training the Come command the food is never visible to your puppy. It
is preferable that your puppy is called, praised and held by the collar in front of the you,
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as close as possible, while you reach around to your supply and take out a piece of food.
Remember to feed him low down between your legs.
If your puppy is relying on the leash to guide him to you and not responding to your
voice cue alone, you need to look at why he is not responding:
Are you making the situation too distracting and not being fair to your puppy?
Is your voice tone wrong or perhaps you are not using enough verbal praise?
Is the kibble not motivating your puppy, perhaps he would respond better to a toy
reward or higher value food? (Consult with your leader.)
Perhaps your puppy is ready for more of a leash pop correction than a gentle
guide. If you are sure your puppy understands what is required, and the situation
is not too difficult for him, a leash correction may be warranted, but should
always be followed with lots of praise and a food reward.
Sometimes, when your puppy has worked through a particularly difficult training
session, maybe being called away from an exceptionally hard distraction, he deserves a
jackpot. A jackpot reward is multiple pieces of kibble given all at once and is a huge
motivator. Five to six pieces of kibble are sufficient for a jackpot. The jackpot should not
be overused or it will lose its value to the puppy. Keep the jackpot reward for those
special times when he really deserves it.
Long-line Recall:
Do not begin this exercise until your puppy does a reliable on-leash recall, with
distractions, by coming toward you on the first command without needing any leash
guidance.
Raisers who are not familiar with the use of a long-line should receive instruction
from their leader before attempting this exercise.
The long-line should be 15 to 25 feet in length. It may be a rope, nylon-leash material,
or a retractable leash designed for this purpose. When using some types of rope or
leash material, it may be advisable to use gloves to prevent a rope burn.
Begin in an area with no distractions. Allow your puppy to wander and his attention
to drift. Do not allow your puppy to put too much slack in the line - this will cause
you to lose control of it.
When your puppy is no longer paying attention to you, say his name (to help regain
attention) and give the command Come. Say the command one time only, and use a
happy tone of voice.
If your puppy responds and begins to move toward you, praise enthusiastically.
Continue to praise as your puppy moves toward you. Backing away from your puppy
will encourage him to come towards you and will also make it easier for you to gather
the long-line. Once he reaches you, take his collar and praise and pet him for a count
of ten seconds. Continue holding his collar and verbally praising while you reach
behind you for a kibble. Give him the food low between your legs and pet him as you
continue to hold his collar. Release him with an OK when you are ready.
If your puppy does not respond to the command, or if he responds initially and then
loses his focus and drifts away, give a pop-and-release collar correction. To
accomplish this, you must reel in excess line as the puppy approaches. (A Flexi-lead
retractable leash will do this automatically.) As he focuses on you and moves in your
direction, verbally praise.
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When your puppy reaches you, complete the exercise as with the on-leash come.
When your puppy is consistently responding and coming all the way to you with no
leash guidance, introduce minor distractions. As your puppy succeeds with minor
distractions, gradually increase the level of distraction.
Random Reinforcement:
At this point in training the recall you should introduce random reinforcement. What
this means, briefly, is that your puppy does not get a food reward every single time he
comes to you; it becomes random. You will still praise and pet your puppy every time,
taking hold of his collar and using stroking and patting to reward him. You may reward
him with a piece of food on the second or third recall or do four recalls with no food
reward then give him a jackpot. If you see your puppys response diminishing consult
with your leader, perhaps you introduced random reinforcement too soon or your puppy
is one of those that will have to be weaned off regular rewards more carefully. Your
puppy should still receive multiple food rewards in each training session, even when on a
schedule of random reinforcement. It is not necessary to wean him off food rewards
totally.
After weeks of consistent responses on the long line, with random reinforcement, your
puppy is ready for the next step.
Transition to off-leash recall:
Go back to food rewards every single time as you work through the transition to the offleash recall. Only when he responds to your command immediately, every time you call
him, should you go to random reinforcement for the off-leash recall.
The transition from an on-leash recall must be done gradually. If the leash or line is
taken off too soon, your pup will quickly realize he does not have to respond to you.
This can lead to bad habits, like games of keep away. Even while having some free
time in the back yard, your pup should have a dragline on, so that you can take hold
of it before calling him. Remember; never give a command you cannot enforce.
In a safe, enclosed area, drop the long-line attached to your puppys collar, and let
him drag it. Call him to you in a happy tone and praise immediately when he starts
toward you. Do not step toward your puppy, but back away and encourage him to
come to you. When he comes to you take hold of his collar, pet and praise for ten
seconds, then give a food reward as above.
If your puppy does not respond to your command, quietly and smoothly pick up the
line and guide him to you. Praise and reward as above.
If your puppy is not coming when called with the line dragging, he may need more
exercise with the hand-held line or there may be too many distractions, making the
situation too difficult for his level of training. Sometimes a distraction is more
motivating to the puppy than the food, so you have to go back to the hand held line
and work harder to keep his interest.
When your puppy is coming every single time he is called while dragging his long-line,
without needing a correction, he can be transitioned to a shorter dragline. (You may
just want to cut off a portion of his long-line to make it shorter, or you may have
several lines of varying lengths available.)
Over a period of weeks, the attached line is gradually shortened, until it is just a tab
or handle, hanging from his collar.
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Do not hesitate to go back to a longer, hand-held line and do more exercises if the
puppy is not responding consistently to the command. Your puppy must be
conditioned to respond correctly with gradually increased distraction. The line will
enable you to enforce the command and the praise and food rewards will keep him
motivated.
If at any time your puppy shows signs of playing keep away, go back to the long-line
and more frequent food rewards. Consult your leader if you are not getting a good,
consistent response from your puppy.
Off-leash recall:
Do not begin this exercise until your puppy comes when called with just a shortened
dragline or tab attached to his collar. He must be responding to the first command
Come, without a correction, even with distractions. If he is not doing this, he needs
more work on the long-line and dragline.
Begin this exercise in a small, escape-proof, confined area (such as an exercise pen) or
room with no distractions. Allow your puppy to wander and become interested in
something. The room should be free of obstacles and small enough so that your
puppy cannot avoid you.
Say your puppy's name followed by the command Come.
Expect your puppy to respond to the command within one second. When your puppy
moves toward you, begin to praise. Once your puppy reaches you, calmly take hold of
his collar, pet and praise your puppy for ten seconds, then, still holding onto his
collar, reach into your supply of food and give him a kibble, holding it low down,
between your knees. Repeat the exercise.
If your puppy does not respond within one second to the command, do not repeat the
command. Walk calmly and slowly toward your puppy. When you reach him, slowly
take hold of his collar. Praise your puppy for allowing his collar to be held. Say
Come, hold the collar and walk backwards to the area where you first called your
puppy. Praise your puppy as you walk backwards and when you reach the area where
you originally called him pet him for ten seconds, but do not give him a food reward.
Release your pup with an OK. Walk away and allow the pup to become slightly
distracted before repeating the exercise. Make it easier for him this time to give him a
chance to succeed; stay closer if necessary.
It is important that you not rush toward your puppy or grab at the collar. Rushing or
lunging towards your puppy will usually have one of two effects: the puppy will
become worried or threatened by the handler, or; the puppy will initiate the keepaway game. Both of these are undesirable responses. If your puppy avoids you or
plays keep-away as you approach, walk even more slowly and calmly toward him.
Keep a calm, happy demeanor. Approaching slowly will take time, but it is the only
way to teach your puppy not to avoid you. No matter how long it takes to get hold of
the puppy's collar, enthusiastic praise is necessary when you do touch it. Obviously
keeping the training area small makes this exercise easier.
Never use a corrective, angry or threatening tone of voice when training this exercise
(no matter how exasperated you may be). Harsh commands will make your puppy
worried about approaching you. Praise really enthusiastically and encourage your
puppy by moving away from him, drawing him towards you at the first sign that he is
responding to your command.
If you do not achieve success after two attempts, go back to the long-line technique
for a while longer.
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Once the puppy is consistently coming when called, add minor distractions. Slowly
increase both the distraction levels and room or enclosure size.
You will need to train your puppy in this exercise throughout the time you have him.
It is not necessary to totally wean him off the food rewards. You should randomly
reinforce your puppy with food rewards throughout the time he is with you.
Remember, random reinforcement is not predictable; there is no pattern to it. If you
see a waning in his response to the recall command, you may have to use the food
reward more often. You should verbally and physically praise him every time he
comes to you. Dont be afraid to go back to any step in this process and reinforce it.
Summary:
A reliable recall response is a vital part of a Guide Dog's training. Raisers can succeed
in teaching this command with patient, calm, friendly and consistent handling
technique. Throughout the puppy's maturation, there will be times that the Come
command will need reinforcement. When a puppy fails to respond under conditions
in which there had previously been no problems, the pup may need to go back to
remedial leash or line work. We would prefer that the off-leash recall is not
attempted at all rather than have a dog come in for formal training playing keep-away
games. The use of food reward greatly increases the raisers success in teaching this
command.
Stay
Before beginning the stay with your puppy, read and learn this entire procedure. He
should completely understand sit or down before being asked to do a sit stay or down
stay.
Appropriate Age: Your puppy can begin learning the sit stay from 3 to 6 months. Add
major distractions (level 4+) at 5 months and older. He should begin learning the down
stay from 5 to 10 months. Add major distractions (level 4+) at 6 months or older.
Purpose:
Guide Dogs will frequently need to be left on their own for short periods of time while
their partners are away from them. They need to remain in place regardless of what may
be happening in their surroundings. This is one of the most important exercises you will
teach your puppy.
Objective:
Your objective will vary depending on the ability of your puppy. With some puppies, a
raiser may not be able to leave the pup's side when there are distractions; other pups
may do well with the raiser out of sight. Most puppies will fall somewhere in between.
Phases of teaching the stay
This exercise is to be taught in phases. Do not proceed to a new phase until your puppy
is proficient in the current phase with the expected level of distraction. Moving too
quickly will do more harm than good. Do not be concerned if it seems that other puppies
in your group are progressing faster than yours. All puppies learn at individual rates.
Good, consistent teaching and handling is much more important than fast progress.
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The Stay command
You will be teaching your puppy both a hand signal and a verbal command. Use the
verbal command every time you tell your pup to Stay. Use the hand signal half of the
time. If the hand signal is used every time the command to Stay is given, the puppy may
learn to rely on it and not stay on a verbal only command.
The verbal stay command: the word Stay.
The signal stay command: Flatten you hand, fingers pointing downward and palm facing
backward. Place your hand above and in front of your puppy's head. Hold this position
for one second, then withdraw it. When using both commands, give the verbal command
simultaneously with the signal above and in front of the puppy's head.
Distractions
To properly teach the stay, it is necessary to add distractions after the puppy becomes
proficient at a particular level without distractions. This teaches the puppy that no
matter what may be happening around it, it must stay in place. Distractions must be
added to each phase of training the stay. You should present the puppy with different
levels of distraction. What follows are examples of increasingly difficult levels of
distractions. They are intended as guidelines of distraction intensity - you should also
use other distractions that are not listed but are of a similar level of difficulty for your
puppy.
Level 1:
No distractions other than the presence of the handler. Handler may "talk" with the
puppy.
Level 2:
Another person the puppy may or may not know walks toward the puppy and talks to
him. They may use the puppy's name, but the other person should give no commands.
Level 3:
Another person approaches the puppy and offers a toy or food.
Level 4:
Another dog or puppy approaches within a few feet while on-leash. A person may tease
or try to induce the pup to break the stay (without giving any commands to the pup).
Food or toys may be place in front of the puppy on the ground, or there may be crowds
of people nearby.
Level 5:
Other puppies (on-leash) are playing with their handlers and other puppies. Other
animals may be nearby (cats, birds, squirrels, etc.). Puppy may be in the middle of an
active crowd of people (in a shopping mall, for example).
Level 6:
Other dogs or puppies (not Guide Dog puppies) are playing off-leash nearby. Toys may be
thrown for the other dogs. There may be heavy traffic or construction noises nearby.
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The Sit Stay

Phase 1:
1. Place puppy on your left side in a sit. Your leash should be in your right hand. Give
your puppy your absolute attention - don't be distracted by your surroundings
2. Give the puppy the command to Stay, both signal and verbal.
3. Remain in place with your pup at your side.
4. Should your puppy move, correct your puppy by gently pulling straight up on the
collar and slowly relaxing the tension as your puppy relaxes. You may also need to gently
reposition his hind end with your left hand.
5. Reposition a front foot that strays too far to the side or front by grasping it at the
elbow and gently reposition it back to where it was originally. Do not pick up the puppy's
foot to reposition the leg - this will often induce the puppy to stand.
6. Allow him to move a front foot slightly or to rock over on one hip to become more
comfortable. Do not allow him to move a foot forward or to the side if it changes the
position or angle of his body. Do not allow him to lift his hind end off of the ground in
an effort to reposition himself. Puppies may turn their heads, but it is best to encourage
their attention towards you. Use no verbal corrections.
7. If your puppy makes a mistake, make sure you reposition and control him as the
puppy begins to make the mistake (when he first starts to move a foot, not afterward). If
you are not paying attention, and the puppy manages to stand or lie down, start the
exercise over from the beginning.
8. Be sure to provide the puppy with lots of verbal encouragement and praise when he is
correct. Length of each stay exercise should vary from only 10 seconds initially to up to
one minute as the puppy progresses.
9. Calmly praise and pet your puppy for staying, then release him with the OK
command.
10. Add distraction levels 1 - 3 as described.
Phase 2:
1. Place puppy on your left side in a sit. Your leash should be in your right hand.
3. Step directly in front of and face your puppy.
4. Should your puppy move, give a light, straight upward pop-and-release correction.
You may also use your hands to reposition the puppy as described in Phase 1. Use no
verbal corrections.
5. If your puppy makes a mistake, make sure you correct and reposition him as he
begins to make it - as when he first starts to move a foot. If you are not paying attention,
and the puppy manages to stand or lie down, correct him as he changes position and
then start the exercise over from the beginning. Always return the puppy to the place
where you started, not to where he moved.
6. Praise and pet your puppy while he is in place, then release him with the OK
command.
7. Add distraction levels 2-4 as described.
Phase 3:
1. Place puppy on your left side in a sit. Your leash should be in your right hand.
3. Step directly in front of and face your puppy. While still facing him, step back one
pace.
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4. Add distraction levels 2-4 as described

5. When your puppy is proficient with distractions, move a step farther back, slowly
increasing the distance over many training sessions, until you are eventually at the end
of a six-foot leash. If your puppy moves, use firmer straight up pop-and-release
corrections.
6. When your puppy is proficient with distraction level 4 while at the end of the leash,
you may begin walking around the puppy, walking toward and backing away from the
pup, or jogging around the pup.
7. Go back to your puppy and praise him for staying, then release him with the OK
command.
Phase 4:
Add distraction levels 5 and 6 to Phase 3.
Phase 5:
1. Use a longer leash or long-line. Follow the instructions for Phase 3 for increasing your
distance and distraction levels.
2. As your distance increases, you will be less able to get effectively timed physical
corrections.
3. If the puppy does not respond to correction, calmly, quietly and quickly return to the
puppy and replace him (without correction) in his exact original position. Praise. Give
the Stay command(s) before you leave the puppy.
4. Add distraction level 5.
The Down Stay
The down stay is both more difficult to train and more difficult for the puppy to
understand than the sit stay. Do not begin the down stay until your puppy is proficient
with Phase 3 of the sit stay and is familiar with the down on command. This will give
your puppy a good understanding of what is expected before you begin training the
down stay.
Phase 1:
1. Place your puppy in a sit at your left side. Place your puppy in a down at your side.
2. Give the Stay command(s).
3. Slowly stand up at the puppy's side. Be ready to give a timely correction, for the
puppy will likely want to stand or move into a sit as you rise.
4. To give an effective correction, you must be ready to move your right hand down the
leash to the snap at the collar. If the puppy moves to rise, smoothly reposition your hand
on the leash and make a light, straight down pop-and-release correction. Repeat the
correction if necessary. Avoid pulling the puppy into position - the pup should decide to
move into the down position on his own.
5. If the puppy gets into the fully sitting or standing position, start the exercise over. As
with the sit stay, your corrections must be timed to catch the mistake as it is beginning,
and not after the puppy has achieved his objective. Pay better attention to your puppy
next time.
6. The length of the exercise should progress from 30 seconds to 3 minutes.
7. Praise and stroke your puppy while he remains down, then release him with the OK
command.
8. Add distraction levels 2 and 3.
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Phase 2:
1. Place your puppy in a sit at your left side. Place your puppy in a down at your side.
2. Give the Stay command(s).
3. Stand up at the puppy's side. Be ready to give a timely correction, for the puppy will
likely want to stand or move into a sit as you rise. Step in front of the puppy, increasing
the distance from the puppy over a period of many training sessions as you did in Phases
2 and 3 of the sit stay.
4. Progress through the distraction levels 2 - 5. You should keep the leash in your hand
at all times in this phase. Your puppy is not yet ready for you to set the leash down.
5. If your puppy moves, use firmer straight down pop-and-release corrections. You may
occasionally give the verbal correction no as you give the physical correction.
6. The length of the exercise should progress from 2 to 5 minutes.
7. Return to your puppy and praise him for staying down, then release him from the
exercise with the OK command.
Phase 3:
1. Be sure your puppy is proficient in Phase 2 at distraction level 5 before proceeding to

Phase 3.
2. Replace the six-foot leash with a long-line.
3. Follow steps 1 - 3 in Phase 2 of the down stay.
4. Increase the distance between you and the puppy gradually over many training
sessions. Keep hold of the line and watch your puppy carefully. You may quietly
praise him while holding the line a distance away.
5. If your puppy moves, calmly and quietly move down the long-line and give a
downward pop-and-release correction close to his collar. Give the command Stay and
leave the puppy as before.
6. Add distraction levels 2-5.
7. Return to your puppy, praise him and release him with an OK.
Phase 4:
1. Be sure your puppy is proficient in Phase 3 at distraction levels 2-5 on a 15-20 line
before going to Phase 4.
2. This phase should be done indoors or in a small, confined area outdoors.
3. Follow steps 1-3 in Phase 2 of the down stay.
4. Go about 6 feet down the long-line and gently set the line on the floor. Place your
foot on the line. Quietly praise your puppy for staying.
5. If the puppy does move, pick up the line and quietly and calmly return to the puppy
and place him back into a down with a pop-and-release correction straight down,
close to his collar. Give the command Stay and leave as before.
6. Over a period of many training sessions you may gradually increase the distance away
from your puppy with the line laid out on the ground but always right next to you
within easy reach.
7. Build up the time of the down stay to 10 minutes or so but do not use high levels of
distraction when you are not holding the line. Do not leave your puppy unattended
on a down stay.
8. Return to your puppy and praise him for staying down then release him with an OK.
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Summary:
The number one mistake handlers make in training the stay is progressing faster than
the dog is capable. Retraining a poorly taught stay is much more difficult than training it
correctly in the first place. While your puppy may not be moving along as quickly as
another in your group, it is much more important that you follow the phases and levels
of distraction in a step-by-step way. Remember that your puppy may not know that he
always must stay in place on command until very late in the training phases. Remember
not to call your puppy to you from a down stay or release him from a distance - always
return to release him. He will have fewer decisions to make as to when it's correct to get
up or move, and his down stay will become much more reliable. Never mix up sit and
down stays. If left sitting, make sure he remains sitting. If left down make him stay
down.
WAIT
Purpose:
The wait can be considered a temporary or informal stay. A stay is for longer periods of
time and is not usually followed by another command or action. The wait is used when a
handler needs the dog to hold location for just a moment; such as when a door is
opened, food is set on the floor, or the dog is getting in or out of a car. The wait is always
performed when the puppy is with the handler, and is usually followed by another
command. Position or change of position is not important, but the puppy may not
change his location.
Objective:
When given the command Wait, the puppy will hold location (sitting, standing or down)
until another command to action is given.
Procedure:
The puppy should have his leash attached to the collar. Hold the leash in the left
hand. Hold the leash with just enough slack so that an effective pop-and-release may
be given.
While the puppy's position is not important to the success of this exercise, it is easier
to teach the puppy wait if he is on your left side. The puppy may be standing, sitting,
or down.
Give the verbal command Wait in a normal tone of voice, and move forward one step
from the puppy.
If the puppy moves with you, give a light pop-and-release correction with the leash
directed back towards the puppys original location. Make the correction as the pup
first starts to move. Avoid pulling the puppy back into the location or giving a
correction that forces the pup back. The objective is to have the pup back up on his
own. Maintain a slack leash at all times. You may repeat the correction if the first is
not effective. Praise him as he waits.
Remember, you are teaching this exercise to a young puppy. Do not over-correct.
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If the puppy starts the exercise in a sit, but stands and moves forward, you do not
need to correct the puppy back into a sit. We are concerned with holding location, not
position.
If the puppy backs into his original location, or did not move forward with you, then
calmly and quietly praise.
Be sure to give the puppy another command when he is no longer expected to wait.
Release with OK, or give an OK, Lets go command when walking. Do not let the
puppy make the decision the exercise is over. Expect the puppy to wait only a few
seconds initially, and up to 30 seconds as he becomes proficient. You do not need to
return to the puppy to give the new command.
Do not restrain your puppy from forward movement. Instead, always anticipate that
he will move and give a pop-and-release correction when he starts to change location.
Refrain from using verbal corrections. Be ready to give calm praise when the puppy
succeeds.
Once your puppy is consistently able to hold location (in any position) when you take
a step forward, add another action such as opening a door in front of him, putting his
food bowl on the floor, waiting while others go through a doorway ahead of the
puppy, etc.
Summary:
This exercise is more relaxed and casual than the more formal stay. The wait is intended
for short duration only, such as when one pauses before opening a door, getting into a
car, or setting food down in front of the dog. It is not important if the puppy changes
position, as long as he does not move forward or change location. The stay is meant for
long periods of time, under heavy distraction, and with the handler some distance from
the puppy. With the stay, the puppy is not allowed to change position or location.
Go To Bed
Appropriate Age: Teaching the Go To Bed command can begin as soon as you get
your puppy. He should advance quickly through the first several steps, but care should
be taken not to increase the difficulty or duration too quickly. Puppies will vary in their
response and it is important not to proceed to the next step until the preceding step is
successfully completed.
Purpose:
This exercise teaches your puppy to go to his bed or a designated mat, lie down and stay
there. Once your puppy knows the exercise it can be used in many situations (for
example, to keep him from greeting people at the door or from bothering other pets in
the household). Your puppy will enjoy learning this and will look upon his bed/mat as a
positive place to be no matter what is going on around him.
Objective:
Upon hearing the verbal cue of Go To Bed, your puppy will reliably and happily offer the
behavior of going to his bed and remain settled.
Procedure:
This teaches your puppy to go to a designated spot, lie down and stay there until
released. A mat/towel or dog bed is used which can eventually be placed in a
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Commands
convenient area in your home or office and moved around as needed. You should pick
one mat or bed to use for initial training, but later on the mat or bed can be exchanged
for another. Only put the mat/bed down when you are actively training for now. The
dog bed you are using for this exercise must be picked up after each session until your
puppy is trained. The reason for this is so that your puppy is not being ignored when he
chooses to Go to Bed; he must be rewarded every time in early training.
Do not put any kind of bedding in your puppys crate where he may chew on it and make
himself ill.
It is preferable that you do this exercise off-leash, so that there is no chance of you
inhibiting or guiding your puppy with the leash. If you are in a setting where off-leash
work is impractical (e.g. a club meeting), be sure to let the leash slide through your hand
easily if your puppy goes toward the mat or bed; do not inhibit him from making the
decision to Go to Bed! A Flexi extendable leash would work well for this.
Step 1:
Start in a quiet, familiar environment. Having the mat/bed on a hard floor, or at least in
a contrasting color, will make it easier for your puppy to distinguish, but isnt absolutely
necessary. Have the treats (your puppys regular kibble measured from his meal) ready.
Place yourself near the mat in such a way that your puppy will step onto the mat. He
doesnt have to put all of his feet on it. Even if he puts one foot on mark and treat (from
now on well just say mark, but of course that means treat too.) Try to move your body
different ways, e.g. right shoulder to the mat then left shoulder to the mat, so that you
are not always giving him the same cue. Do not point at the mat or use your hands at all.
At first it should be almost accidental that his feet land on the mat.
Repeat x 10 times
Give the reward with your puppy still on the mat, meaning move to your puppy after you
mark, so the pup receives the reward while still on the mat. You may even give him the
food low on the mat to encourage a down, but dont say down and dont withhold the
food; once you have marked you must give it to him quickly.
(To get him off the mat in between trials, draw him away with your body, gently use the
leash, or practice your Food Induced Recall.)
Step 2:
Try to give less body language to guide him onto the mat; let him figure it out on his own
but go back to maneuvering your body slightly if he is stuck. Sometimes just your
looking at the mat will be sufficient. Stay close to the mat to keep it easy for him, but try
from different angles around the mat. Now withhold the mark until he puts at least two
of his feet on the mat.
Repeat x 5-10 times
Step 3:
From different angles around the mat, but no more than a few inches away, repeat the
above. Step in to treat after you mark so he is rewarded on the mat; however dont worry
if he steps off the mat after the mark but before the treat. Start asking for all four paws
on the mat before you mark. Your puppy may stare at you expectantly when he puts two
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Commands
paws on the mat, but just wait. He will probably then shuffle around and somehow hit
the mat with all his feet, mark it! If he doesnt get the idea, draw him off gently with the
leash and re-approach using your body to help him hit the mat with more feet.
Reward your puppy multiple times (jackpot) while he is on the mat; this will give him a
strong, positive association with the mat.
Do not guide the puppy onto the mat with the leash! This should be his choice: go on the
mat and get the reward, or dont go on the mat and dont get rewarded.
If your puppy is getting this quickly you only need do five reps of each step. At this
point no body language should be coming from you, stay still and neutral until you mark.
Step 4:
Move a couple of inches further back from the mat and repeat the above. Within several
sessions, you should be able to have your puppy go to his mat from several feet away.
He may even be difficult to keep off the mat! Once you have the behavior consistently
start naming it, the verbal cue will be, Go to Bed. You know the behavior is sufficiently
solid to add this verbal cue when you can confidently predict your puppy is going to go
to the mat. Would you bet $20 on it? Only add the verbal cue Go to Bed when you are
positive your puppy is about to move back to the mat.
Perhaps your puppy now wants to stay on the mat as he associates it with good things;
perfect, as now you need to add the next sequence in the behavior - to stay on the mat.
Do not say stay or give a signal. You want the puppy to eventually go to his mat and
stay on it on the one command. For now, we dont mind if your puppy stays in a sit, down
or stand position, so long as hes on the mat.
Step 5:
Go back to being very close to the mat. Send your pup to the mat and instead of marking
as soon as he hits it with all four paws, wait a second or two, then mark. If he stays on
the mat after the treat, wait for a few seconds and mark again. You can do this several
times; dont worry if he gets off the mat immediately after the treat. If he stays still on
the mat after several marks and treats, call him off the mat in a Food Induced Recall and
start the sequence again. If your puppy got off the mat too soon and you didnt get
chance to mark him for staying on it, ask for a much shorter stay next time. Slowly
increase the amount of time on the mat before you mark, but make sure you are allowing
your puppy to be successful and not asking too much at once. If he gets off the mat
before you mark just send him again, but ask for a shorter duration before the mark.
Step 6:
Just as you did in the first steps start sending the puppy to his mat from different
angles, then slowly start increasing the distance but now always insisting on him staying
on the mat until you mark; if he gets off no treat. Remember to only change one
criteria at a time, e.g. if you send him from further away from the mat go back to shorter
duration stays before marking. If you move the mat to a new location, you will have to
back up several steps in the sequence to make it simpler for your puppy.
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Step 7:
Although initially it is not important what position your puppy holds on the mat, we
eventually want him to go to it and lie down on it until released. As you work on
increasing the duration of the stay on the mat, your pup will most likely be sitting, which
is good, but may offer a down, which is even better. The second he offers a movement
that looks like the beginning of a down position, mark it. As you withhold the mark to
increase the length of time for staying on the mat, he might offer all kinds of behaviors;
you will only reward for staying on the mat for an increasing number of seconds or
offering the beginning of a down movement.
Step 8:
You may be lucky and have a puppy that offered to lie down on the mat promptly, and
with lots of reinforcement, now always lies down on the mat. Or you may have to shape
lying down on the mat by marking first for a lowering of the head from a sit, then a
crouch, then for one elbow touching the mat and eventually working up to a full lying
position. This is called shaping a behavior. Because your puppy wants that mark so
badly, he will try different positions, but you will only reward the ones that start looking
like a down. Gradually increase your demand for the position by withholding the mark
for positions you previously rewarded and only rewarding movements that are more like
lying down. If you practiced giving him the treat low, making him reach his head down
for it on the mat, he will probably already be going into a relaxed down when he hits the
mat.
Step 9:
Now your puppy is going across the room to the mat, on your verbal cue, from any angle
and lying down on it. Hes holding the position for a length of time (with young puppies,
dont ask for unrealistic durations; a minute or two would be fine at this point). You can
start practicing in different places and adding distractions but always make it easier,
going back numerous steps, when introducing new distractions. You can also set the mat
next to you while watching TV or working at your desk; occasionally rewarding your
puppy for staying down on the mat.
Once your puppy understands the whole behavior sequence, there is no reason to mark
any longer as marking is only used when teaching a behavior. However, continue to give
very occasional food rewards, and regular verbal praise, after longer durations of staying
on the mat, throughout your puppys raising.
Summary:
By using positive reinforcement and shaping techniques your puppy will quickly learn
that it is fun as well as rewarding to offer the calm, positive behavior of going to his bed
and remaining there until released. The ability to remain settled regardless of activity
level around him is an essential behavior in a Guide Dog. You will find that training your
puppy using these techniques will be very rewarding for you as well!
Ten basic rules of puppy handling (The calming sit, lay-over and stand)
1. Do the exercises at least twice a day. Vigorous or excitable pups may need several
sessions per day.
2. Keep sessions brief (usually no more than five minutes long).
3. When a puppy resists handling, persist until it gives in to the handling.
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Commands
4. Do handling exercises slowly and calmly with firm but gentle hands.
5. Do lots of slow, pleasant stroking when the puppy is quietly accepting the handling
and sweetly praise the puppy while stroking it.
6. Avoid saying "no" or correcting with your voice during handling exercises. It's very
important that you and your puppy enjoy these handling experiences
7. Face the puppy away from you while doing the handling exercises.
8. Avoid using commands during the handling exercises until the puppy has become
compliant.
9. Ignore your puppy's vocalizing and whining - just work through it.
10. Avoid pulling away from the puppy when he tries to chew on you or the leash.
Instead, give collar corrections for mouthing, chewing or pawing.
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Commands
7-1 SAYING "GOODBYE"

Probably the hardest part of puppy raising is having to return your pup to Guide Dogs
for formal training. After putting in hours of hard work and tender care, after
experiencing all the joys and frustrations of shaping your pup into a well mannered,
socialized being, you have, in the process, undoubtedly formed a strong bond of love and
friendship with your puppy.
When your pup is approximately 12 to 18 months old, you will receive a letter from
Guide Dogs stating that he is being recalled for training. If you live near one of the
campuses, you can take him there, or we will arrange to have him brought to us. If you
have difficulty meeting the scheduled pick-up time, date, or place in the letter, call your
leader immediately.
When you deliver your puppy to either a pick-up site or to one of the Guide Dog
campuses, please ensure that you let the Guide Dog representative know if and when
your puppy was altered. This important information needs to be verified in our computer
database to prevent your puppy from being unnecessarily scheduled for altering.
Also, make sure that you give the person receiving your puppy all the items listed below,
especially the required forms. The information you provide is entered into our computer
database and becomes an essential part of your puppy's history.
One of the best ways to ease the sorrow of giving up your puppy is to say "hello" to a
new one. Speak to your leader about the possibility of getting a new pup when you turn
in your present one.
Items that need to be returned with your puppy:
Both collars
Puppy coats (these should be returned to your leader)
A fully completed Project Record, if for some reason you did not turn it into your
leader as requested - the Training Department depends on you to provide accurate
and detailed information which will help the instructor evaluate the puppy's
potential.
A completed "Fun things about my puppy" form - if your puppy graduates, this record
is read by your puppy's new partner to better understand how to make your puppy
happy. Please be informative and positive in your descriptions.
The veterinarian's record of your puppy's care.
Any unused heartworm preventative
Any unused flea or tick preventative
This puppy raising manual (return to your leader only if you are not planning on
raising subsequent puppies)
Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 7: Whats next for your puppy Section 7-1
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Saying Goodbye
7-2 WHEN YOUR PUPPY RETURNS TO GUIDE DOGS

Not all puppies make it as guides no matter how hard their raisers have
worked. Know that whatever the outcome, we appreciate all you have done to
prepare your pup to become a guide, and we will, in turn, do our best to make
that happen. We are always looking for ways to improve our program and
welcome your suggestions.
The receiving kennel
Your puppy will be welcomed to Guide Dogs and he will receive a new training collar.
Medical examination
Your puppy undergoes a complete physical, has his hips, elbows and eyes checked, is
examined for heartworm and receives a fresh round of vaccinations.
Unfortunately, if he fails one of the check-ups, he may be dropped from the program.
Your pup is then assigned to an instructor
If he passes all of his check-ups, your pup will be assigned to an instructor with a
training string. A string is a group of dogs all trained by one team of instructors.
He then begins his training program and is given systematic evaluations as he
progresses through ten training phases.
Weekly, the instructor writes a phase report on every dog in his string. Information on
dogs in training is shared with Guide Dog staff and raisers as follows:
Training sends a list of each dogs phase of training to the Puppy Raising
Department.
This information goes to your area puppy raising CFR.
The CFR gives the phase reports to your leader.
Puppy raisers contact their leaders (according to whatever protocol has been
worked out for their group) to receive phase report updates on their puppies.
You may not receive a phase report for a few weeks at the start of training or any
time period in which the instructor is away from training due to illness, vacation or
class training.
You will receive a text of the exercises which dogs work on in each phase. By
comparing your dogs phase number with this document, you will be able to
understand the work your dog is doing daily at a particular time.
Visiting Guide Dogs while your dog is in training:
We welcome visits from our puppy raisers and encourage you to see the campus where
your puppy will receive his formal Guide Dog training. However, PLEASE DO NOT TOUR
OUR KENNELS while your dog is here in training.
It's important for the dogs to form a strong bond with their instructors while they're
living in the kennel environment and learning all about guidework. It can be very
confusing for your dog to hear or see you, your leader or your family. He may think
someone has come to take him back home.
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When Puppy Returns to GDB
7-3 TRAINING
Our Training Department includes directors, training supervisors, class supervisors,
licensed instructors, apprentice instructors (AIs), and instructor assistants (IAs) among
others. They handle dog and student instruction, exercise and care for the dogs. They
receive support from the Kennel and Veterinary Departments.
Throughout his training, your puppy will be continually evaluated by training and
veterinary staff. If a problem (physical, temperament, behavior or cosmetic) arises that is
evaluated as being chronic, reoccurring and/or impossible to correct, the dog will be
dropped from the program. It is always unfortunate for a dog to be dropped at this stage
of training. It's important to understand that our very high standards are necessary to
ensure the safety of a blind partner. The dog that we place needs to be dependable in all
ways - health, temperament, and skills.
If your puppy continues to do well and completes the training phases, he will be assigned
to a class. Class assignment occurs when the instructor feels that your puppy has the
qualities needed by a particular person who is in class.
Pattern training
In pattern training, the dogs are patterned to give a specific response. Initially, the dogs
are walked through several guide workouts with instructors to show how they will be
asked to respond to commands and situations. By having the dog respond to commands
and situations in exactly the same way each time, the dog becomes patterned in its
responses.
Eventually, when actual guide work in harness begins, the dog continues to respond the
same way, guiding in harness as it did when it was first introduced to the commands and
situations. This may sound fairly simple to do, but it takes a great deal of concentration
on the instructor's part to simulate guide work for the dog when it is not being asked to
guide. Each response and move the dog makes must follow an exact pattern every time.
Guide Dog training phases

The Guide Dog training program is designed to maximize a dog's potential for success.
Each dog is taken through the phases with the end goal of having all of the dogs in a
string ready for class at the same time. There are ten phases of training through which
our dogs progress during their training cycle:
Phase #1
Pre-training physical exam, neutering/spaying (with the exception of potential breeding

stock dogs who are under evaluation at this time), X-rays, eye checks. First walks on
leash. Introduction to the kennel environment and schedule. Relaxing walks on the
campus and play sessions with instructor assistants. General daily care and grooming.
Phase #2
Preliminary harness and obedience training. Introduction to distractions (toys, food,

Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 7: Whats next for your puppy
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Training
other dogs, cats, etc.). On-campus training of leading into harness (pulling forward in
harness) utilizing the BEST program and responses to guidework-specific commands
such as "Forward," "Halt," "Hopp Up" and "Steady." Introduction to campus obstacle
course on leash.
Phase #3
Harness training in quiet residential areas; frequent rides in the training vans. Teaching
new guidework commands and responses, such as "Right," "Left," and "Over Here," as well
as continuing to work on commands learned in Phase 2. Curb checks and street crossings
are introduced. Progressive obstacle course training on campus. Obedience training
continues. Mall exposure walks and introduction to dog social sessions. Those dogs who
are on the breeder-watch list but are not selected for the breeding program are spayed or
neutered.
Phase #4
Guidework training progresses on more difficult sidewalks in busier sections of

downtown areas. All curb types and more complex street crossings are introduced. The
dogs begin to show clearance awareness, and begin to guide their instructors through the
campus obstacle course. Preliminary obedience testing and evaluation of the dogs'
reactions to head collars are also performed.
Phase #5
Preliminary guidework testing is performed with the instructor under blindfold.

Complete medical history review. Guidework training environments become more
challenging: pedestrian traffic, stairs, different flooring surfaces, etc.
Phase #6
Guidework routes in difficult and challenging level work environments. Heavy pedestrian
and vehicle traffic areas, wide crossings, hectic atmospheres, etc. Introduction to
sidewalkless areas and rounded curbs. Continued work in malls, stores and buildings
with increasing exposure to varying sights, sounds and smells. Advanced guidework
skills such as moving turns. Learning "intelligent disobedience", in which dogs learn to
refuse to obey a command if it is unsafe to execute. Advanced obedience training.
Phase #7
Guidework moves to extremely challenging downtown urban areas (San Francisco and
Portland). Training on buses, light rail/subway systems and platform edges. Introduction
to low overhead clearances; advanced off-leash obedience. Formal traffic training begins.
Phase #8
Continued advanced guidework and obedience training. Intensive indoor mall training
with crowds, slick floors and learning to board, ride and exit escalators. Advanced
sidewalkless training with obstacles.
Phase #9
Final obedience testing including on-leash obedience with the instructor wearing a
blindfold, off-leash obedience and distraction response. Final testing of guidework inside
buildings (malls, stores, etc.) with the instructor wearing a blindfold. Includes working
escalators, elevators, stairs, etc. The dogs are also worked by unfamiliar or novice
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Training
handlers. Final traffic testing with instructor under blindfold and "real life" traffic
situations.
Phase #10
Final guidework testing. Includes working a 40-50 minute route with the instructor
wearing a blindfold in downtown Gresham or San Rafael. The route covers nearly every
aspect of guidework (curbs, street crossings, stairs, buildings, crowded sidewalks, traffic,
etc.); obedience exercises are done along the way. Final "class-ready" physical exams.
For a more comprehensive description of each of the ten phases of training, please see
the Recall for training phase descriptions packet in the Policies, forms and resources
section.
Passing a dog back while in training
There may be times when the weekly training report notes that a dog has been moved
back one or more phase numbers. This would reflect a dog that has been "passed back"
in training. Passing a dog back does not necessarily reflect concerns, but rather indicates
that we continue to see positive traits in the dog. Like people, not all dogs learn at the
same rate. In our training process, each string of dogs is separated by at least two
phases. So, when a dog is passed back a string or two you can expect to see a significant
change in the phase number. Take, for example, a dog that is in phase ten and
considered class ready, but is not selected for class. This dog will be passed back and
be available for placement in subsequent classes. Since the string that this dog has been
passed to will be in a different phase (most likely a lower phase), the dog will also be
formally documented as being in the lower phase as well, even though it has technically
completed phase ten and is considered class ready. Each dog is placed into class only
when a person arrives that needs their specific abilities, size and temperament.
Generally, dogs are in training for approximately four to five months, but many dogs
may be in training for six to nine months (or even more) before they are matched with
the appropriate individual.
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Section 7-3
Training
7-4 IN CLASS
A dog that successfully completes all ten phases of his training will be assigned to a
student in class. This assignment may require a wait, as all dogs are individually matched
by instructors to students according to the student's needs and lifestyle. Class training
schedules offered:
Four-week class - for new students and some students (retrain) with previous
experience using a dog guide.
Two or three-week retrain class - for students with previous experience with a dog
guide
Two-week retrain class - for students with good Guide Dog experience
Custom needs class - for students who have individual training needs
In-home training - for retrain students who cannot attend a Guide Dog campus
Instruction includes:
Dog care
Dog grooming
Dog nutrition
Veterinary care
Basic dog obedience
Access
Traffic
Harness work with and without a dog (Juno work)
Guidework with a dog
A dog can be reassigned or passed back for more training. A class-ready dog may
continue in training for several months waiting to be matched to a student who requires
their particular abilities and qualities. A dog may be dropped from the program up to the
day of graduation and even after going to the graduate's home for a variety of reasons
including: health, temperament or safety in guiding.
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Section 7-4
In Class
7-5 GRADUATION
Raisers are invited to attend our graduation ceremony to present the dogs they have
raised to their new partners. Those raisers whose dogs have been matched with students
receiving in-home training are welcome to attend graduation, and their name, their dog's
name and the student's name will be mentioned during the program even though their
dogs will not be physically presented.
You will be notified with a formal letter of the date your dog will graduate with his new
partner. This letter will include instructions for the week leading up to and the day of
graduation. On the day of graduation, staff members will greet you and will introduce
you to the graduate who has been paired with the dog you raised. You will have a chance
to visit and share stories. During your visiting time, you will be asked to accompany the
graduate and the dog you raised to a room where photos will be taken for publicity
purposes and for the graduate's and your keepsake. You and the graduate will be given a
moment on stage during the ceremony to share a few words about your experiences.
After the ceremony, you will be sent a video of the graduation as a keepsake. The video
usually arrives one to three months after graduation (it must be processed by a photo
lab).
Tips to help make graduation more relaxed and enjoyable to all:
Realize that the student is probably nervous and wants to make a good impression on
you.
Its natural for some raisers to be nervous too; we want you to relax and enjoy
yourself.
Please let your first words be a greeting to the student (not the dog). Initiating a
handshake is great! (Gently touch the back of the students right hand as a greeting if
they do not have their arm extended.)
The student may offer you the leash so that you can visit with their dog for a few
minutes. Keep in mind that this is a courtesy to you. Please be respectful of the
students important relationship with their dog and hand the leash back to them in a
few minutes.
Take a few minutes to greet the dog youve raised; its best to stay gentle and calm.
Despite your own excitement, try to not increase the dogs excitement.
Please remember that the dog is working on this day. Expect and encourage him to
behave as he would in a working situation involving a crowd.
Indicate an open seat to the student. Ask the student about their class experience.
Feel free to share positive and/or humorous stories about the dogs puppyhood. Keep
in mind that the student has only begun to develop their trust and confidence in their
new guide. While sharing normal puppy "challenges" with the student is fine, try not
to focus on any negative subjects about raising their dog.
Inquire about the students lifestyle, plans or hobbies/career. Keep in mind, the
student may or may not want to share this.
Please do not offer the student any training advice even if asked.
The student will put the harness on the dog when it is time to take photos. The
student may also attach alternative control equipment onto their dog, such as a
specialized collar or headcollar.
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Section 7-5
Graduation
The students complete address is sent to you in the letter informing you of the
graduation. Many times phone numbers are exchanged but remember that the
graduate and you are under no obligation to give each other personal information or
communicate in the future. Please respect any privacy wishes that the other may
express.
Sponsored teams
Donors who have contributed $15,000 or more toward the cost of training a person and
their dog are invited to come to graduation to meet the team they have sponsored. This
donation amount does not cover the real costs of training a team. If the donation has
been given in memory or in honor of someone close to the donor, the dog may have an
honorary title listed on the program in parenthesis next to his real name. In other words,
the dog's name is changed for the day of graduation. You and the graduate, however,
may still refer to the dog by his real name. When photos are taken, the donor will also
have their photo taken with the graduate and dog. If your dog and his new partner are a
sponsored team, you may also be asked to meet the donor on graduation day. Being
chosen as a part of a sponsored team is an extra honor for your dog for which you can be
justifiably proud.
In-home training procedures

Individuals receiving Guide Dogs through the "in-home" training process cannot attend
graduation with their new guides. The whole purpose of this type of special training is to
help a person with a visual impairment that cannot, for health or other personal reasons,
attend one of the campus-based training classes.
Raisers can visit the dog on campus before it leaves for training
The instructor will take photos and a video, if possible, of the new team for the
raiser's keepsake.
The raiser may attend a graduation where he or she will be introduced with an
explanation of in-home training.
The raiser can make a statement at graduation similar to other raisers.
With the graduate's consent, a statement composed by the graduate may be read by
Guide Dogs' staff.
With the graduate's consent, a phone call will be arranged between the raiser and the
graduate.
Graduation for breeding stock

Selection of dogs to be added to the breeding colony is based on the results of training
evaluations, physical and health screenings, and the needs of the colony in terms of
pedigree and temperament types. Only those dogs that have met the highest physical
and temperamental standards are considered for inclusion in the colony. A thorough
review of the individual dogs health and temperament assessments as well as those of
his littermates, and the sire and dams previous production completes the selection
process.
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Section 7-5
Graduation
At present, the breeding colony consists of approximately 200 active breeders (160
females and 40 males). The role of the Breeding Department is to provide enough dogs of
the breeds utilized, both in terms of quality and number, to meet the demands of the
organization's two training facilities. (See "1-3 Our dogs" in section 1: Introduction to
learn more about the breeding program at Guide Dogs for the Blind.)
Once a dog is added to the breeding colony, Guide Dogs then considers the placement of
the dog in a custodial home within a 50-mile radius of the California campus. Raisers of
breeders are given a special option to serve as the breeder custodian if they live within a
75-mile radius of California campus and meet the qualifications of a breeder custodian.
Guide Dogs carefully reviews each potential custodial family's application and home
environment in order to ensure healthy, safe and secure homes for these valuable
breeding stock dogs. The screening process includes completion of a written application,
an interview and orientation at the California campus, and a home visit, including yard
and fence evaluations. Finally, applicants are given an assessment of their current dog
handling techniques and are provided with training tips and information. The ultimate
goal is to obtain the best possible home for each individual dog being placed.
Once placed, breeding stock dogs are required to be kept in peak physical condition. This
includes daily exercise, grooming, flea control and formal obedience training. The dogs
must sleep indoors and be treated as beloved members of the family. To ensure their
safety, breeders must always be kept on-leash when outdoors and only allowed to run
freely in a securely fenced area.
Every raiser of a dog selected to become breeding stock will be invited to attend a
graduation ceremony to formally present their dog and be recognized by Guide Dogs for
their hard work and contribution. If you raise a dog that becomes a breeder, you will be
notified when he or she produces his or her first litter of pups and will be given the
opportunity to submit names for the puppies.
The raising of a dog that has become a breeder affords the opportunity for
many visually impaired individuals to be served and makes a contribution to
the organization that spans several years.
2/2003
Section 7-5
Graduation
7-6 AFTER GRADUATION

Once the team returns home after graduation, the real work of guiding begins for your
dog. He will be with his partner all hours of the day or night and guide him in all his or
her daily travel activities. Access laws in the United States and Canada, including the
Americans with Disabilities Act, permit guide dogs and their handlers to go everywhere
the general public is allowed: stores, restaurants, office buildings, taxis, buses and all
areas of public accommodation. As a guide, your dog will accompany his partner to work,
to the store and almost everywhere else he or she goes.
Guide Dogs offer graduates post-graduation services including:
Appropriate veterinary reimbursement
Extensive follow-up services for the working life of the team, including home visits
and telephone counseling.
Retired guides
Some very special dogs devote most of their lives to helping their blind friends. Dogs can
work for up to ten years or until they are no longer able to keep up with the rigors of the
work. Old and gray, it is time for them to retire and for their partners to get a new guide.
If you remember the sadness that you felt when you returned your puppy to Guide Dogs,
try to imagine the sadness of a graduate who loses his constant companion and
dependable guide to retirement. Guide Dogs for the Blind makes sure that all retired
guides are found good homes if the graduate cannot keep the dog. The graduate also has
the option to place his retired guide with friends or relatives.
If the graduate doesn't choose to keep or place his retired guide, the raiser may next be
offered the retiree. Many raisers welcome retired guides into their homes. If the retired
guide does not return to the raiser, our Dog Placement Department specializes in finding
homes for any retired guides that may need to be placed. (See "Career change dog policy"
in the Policies, forms and resources section for more information on dogs that are career
changed or retired.)
2/2003
After Graduation
7-7 HOW GUIDE DOGS PLACES THE PUPPIES YOU RAISE

It is difficult when you can't provide a home for a career changed dog when you have
invested so much time, effort, and love raising it. We want you to know about our Dog
Placement process and the time, effort, and love that go into each placement.
The process starts when someone notifies us of his or her desire to receive a dog from
our program by submitting a Career Change Application. After careful review, only those
who qualify are kept on file. Acceptable applications are entered into our computer
database.
When a dog is career changed and the raiser is unable to take the dog back or has no
close family member or close friend that can offer a quality home, the dogs placement
becomes the responsibility of the Dog Placement Department. We learn everything we
can about the dog: the reason the dog was released from the program, the dogs history
in the puppy raising home (another reason completed project records are so helpful!), the
training and socialization history and health history. We review the evaluations done in
the field by the Community Field Representatives and, if the dog made it all the way back
to the training program, we talk with the instructors and instructor assistants who may
have trained and cared for the dog. From all the information we have gathered, we put
together a basic profile of the kind of home we are looking for - a family with kids, a
retired couple, a home without other dogs or cats, a family who has owned this type of
dog before, etc.
By searching the available applications in the database, we develop a list of potential
matches.
Then, considering the dog's strengths and weaknesses, we spend hours
reviewing the applications and talking on the phone with several potential adopters to
find a home that seems best suited for the particular dog we are trying to place. Only
when we feel we have a possible match do we indicate that we have a dog available. We
then describe the dog in detail, always giving both the positives and negatives. It is very
important to us to be straightforward about the dog. Our success in locating a
permanent home is more likely if there is not a great deal of surprises when adopters
take their new dog home.
A fence check must be completed before the dog goes to its new home. This check
provides an opportunity for us to observe the home environment. Guide Dogs staff,
leaders or volunteers may do fence checks.
Once the fence check is completed, the family is required to meet the dog on campus.
We encourage the whole family to come, especially if there are young children in the
household. During this meeting we spend a lot of time discussing dog behavior, teaching
the family various training techniques (e.g. how to use a proper collar and leash
correction along with praise and the basic obedience commands). It typically takes
between one and two hours to educate the family and show the dog.
Not every meeting results in the dog going to that home. Occasionally, in spite of the
hours that were spent interviewing the family by phone, the match is inappropriate.
Sometimes we deny the placement, and sometimes the family decides that the dog is not
2/2003
How GDB Places Dogs
right for them. If the campus meeting is not successful, the process begins again to
search for a new, more appropriate home.
It takes time to find the right match. It is never a case of just assigning a dog to the next
applicant on the list. As dogs wait for new homes, most adjust well to kennel-life,
continuing to mature and learning from the instructor assistants who constantly work
with them; grooming, exercising, and training.
Our primary goal is placing the dog with a family that will provide it with a lifetime of
love, care, and companionship. Since our breeds are known to enjoy active involvement
with their owners, we also encourage applications from those who are looking for dogs
to enter into agility, obedience, tracking, search and rescue, pet facilitated therapy, and
other disciplines and hobbies.
Thank you for the time, love, and care that you have put into raising a puppy for Guide
Dogs for the Blind. Even though all dogs cannot become guides or breeders, we
recognize that each dog is truly a unique and valued individual. We will continue to work
hard to find loving and responsible homes for each. We know that you would want
nothing less for your puppy!
Taking back your career change dog
Let's suppose that you have just found out that the puppy you so carefully raised has
been career changed. Now what?
Raisers have a great deal of attachment to the puppies that they loved, cared for, and
trained, often watching them grow from cute, cuddly puppies into mature dogs. As a
result of these heartfelt emotions, a raiser may feel obligated to take a career change dog
back. We at Guide Dogs understand a raiser's feelings of love and responsibility to the
puppy that they raised because we feel the same spirit of protectiveness. However, we
place no responsibility on raisers to keep a dog that they have raised. Unless a raiser is
sure that they can provide a lifetime quality home for a dog, we would prefer to place the
dog through our Dog Placement Department.
Before deciding to take a career change dog back, please ask yourself the
following questions
Are you considering taking the dog back only because you feel an obligation to the
dog or Guide Dogs?
Have you considered that the dog may be a different dog in size and behaviors than
the one that you returned for training several months ago?
Can you give the dog the best possible home for the rest of the dogs life?
Do you have time to spend exercising and playing with the dog?
Does everyone in the home want the dog?
If you are a youth raiser, do your parents want the dog as much as you do?
If you are a youth raiser, will you be going to college or moving into your own home
while the dog may be still living? What are your plans for the dog then?
Will the dog get along well with all family members: adults, small children and pets?
Do you have other dogs - a Guide Dogs puppy, other career change dogs, or pets
and will you be able to provide each with sufficient individual love and care?
Can you afford the food and veterinary care of a large-breed dog?
2/2003
How GDB Places Dogs
Do you currently have a secure, fenced area (yard or dog run) at least 5 feet in height?
If your home has a pool, is it safely fenced?
Will the dog have adequate shelter from both the rain and sun?
Will the dog be inside the house (at least at night)?
How much time will the dog be alone?
If renting, do you have the landlords permission to have a dog?
If any of the preceding questions cause doubts, perhaps you would be better off letting a
previous raiser accept the dog or letting Guide Dogs place the dog.
If you decide to accept the career change dog back as a pet
Guide Dogs will legally transfer the dog to you.

You must complete an "Agreement Confirming Gift of Dog" contract that transfers the
dog from Guide Dogs to you.
Any transportation costs to return the dog to you are at your expense.
With the exception of a small number of pre-approved cases, veterinary and all other
expenses are your responsibility.
If the dog doesnt work out, please do not hesitate to notify and then return the dog
to Guide Dogs.
If at any time in the dog's life you transfer the dog to a new home, please complete
and return to Guide Dogs a "Supplemental Dog Transfer Form."
Raisers are not allowed to sell career change dogs.
If concerns about a dog's behavior or health arise, please contact the Guide Dogs Dog
Placement dog evaluation specialist.
Placing your career change dog
If you decide that you cannot personally keep the dog, you also have the option to place
the dog. If you choose to place the dog yourself, you may only place the dog with a close
friend or close family member. Guide Dogs has found that the placements of dogs by
raisers with people whom they do not know extremely well are often not successful. If a
raiser cannot keep a career change dog as their own or place the dog with a very trusted
person, Guide Dogs will happily place the dog.
Guide Dogs takes great care, reinforced by years of experience, in the placing of career
change dogs. Guide Dogs has two Dog Placement offices, one in California and one in
Oregon, that are staffed by professionally trained people whose sole jobs are to screen,
select, and educate prospective homes. We offer not only these preliminary services but
also follow-up services to ensure that the dog is happy in the new home.
If you decide to place a career change dog with a close friend or family
member, first, carefully ask yourself some questions about the dog
Does the dog have temperament, control, or behavior concerns that make him a
challenging candidate for placement?
In offering this dog to a new home, can you be honest with the prospective adopters
about all his behaviors, good and bad?
If the dog has problems in the adopters home, can you offer the resources to help
work through the problem?
If this dog does not work out in his new home, are you willing to take him back or
return him to Guide Dogs?
2/2003
How GDB Places Dogs
Would this dog be better placed by Guide Dogs experienced Dog Placement staff?
In deciding whether your close relative or close friend is a good candidate for
a dog, ask yourself some general questions about the prospective home
Have you honestly and completely explained in detail all the dog's potential negative
behaviors and/or health problems to the prospective adopter?
Is the potential adopter making a decision on impulse or as a surprise gift for
someone else? This is not a good way to make such an important decision.
Will the dog get along well with all family members: adults, small children, and
pets/livestock?
Is any one in the home allergic to dogs?
What is the prospective adopter's motivation in wanting this dog as a pet?
Are they interested in this dog because they really know and like him?
Have they spent any substantial amount of time with the dog?
Do they only want the dog because he is a "good deal?"
Do they only want the dog as a favor to you?
Do they only want the dog because he has come from Guide Dogs for the Blind?
Do they understand that all dogs have dog behaviors, good and bad, even ones from
Guide Dogs?
Do they understand all the responsibility involved in providing a lifetime, loving
home for a dog?
Are all their current pets well cared for, including grooming, housing, and
vaccinations?
Have they had dogs in the past? What became of these dogs?
These general dynamics can often best predict a dog's happiness in a new home. If you
have any concerns about the success of the proposed placement, please let Guide Dogs
select a home instead.
If you are confident from the answers to the above questions that a
prospective family may be a good candidate to receive the dog that you raised,
ask the following
Can the prospective family afford the food and veterinary care of a large-breed dog?
Do they have time to spend exercising and playing with the dog?
Do they have a secure, fenced area (yard or dog run) at least 5 feet in height?
If the potential home has a pool, is it safely fenced?
Will the dog be inside (at least at night)?
Is adequate shelter provided from both rain and sun?
If renting, do they have the landlords permission to have a dog?
Are they able and willing to obtain and use a crate?
Will they take a dog through obedience classes or private training to better
understand and control the dog?
Are they familiar with the grooming needs of this breed?
Are they willing to provide flea control?
Are they planning to move in the near future?
2/2003
How GDB Places Dogs
If you are satisfied that the dog you are placing fits well with the applicant
Introduce the dog to the adopters at their home.

Make sure that no family members are intimidated by the dog,
Make sure that all family members are gentle and kind, yet consistent.
Make sure that there are no possible conflicts with other pets, inside and outside the
home.
Double check the yard for safety and security.
If you decide to place the dog in this new home
Any transportation costs to transport the dog to the new home are yours or the
adopters.
expenses are the responsibility of the adopters.
If questions arise in the new home that you cannot answer, please ask the adopters to
contact the Dog Placement Department's dog evaluation specialist who will consult
with them.
Ask the adopters that if it doesnt work out to please contact you or Guide Dogs
directly to return the dog to us.
If you dont feel right about a potential new owner, tell them "no.
If you have any uncertainties, please let us place the dog. The Dog Placement
Department is available to place the dog from either campus in the event that you
dont feel comfortable with your options. Since the quality of the dogs life depends
on this placement, take your time and dont take chances!
Thank you for all the love and effort that you spent raising a puppy for Guide Dogs
for the Blind. Thank you also for helping us find a permanent, happy home for each
dog from our program.
Please help us fulfill our responsibilities by letting Guide Dogs for the Blinds Dog
Placement staff find homes for any dog in need of a home.
Guide Dogs for the Blind will gladly accept back any dog that is returned to us at any
stage of the dogs life.
We feel a great debt to all our dogs - guides, breeders, and career change - that have
contributed to our mission. We have a lifelong responsibility to them all.
Please help us fulfill our responsibility by returning to us any dog that is from our
program and that is in need of a home.
2/2003
How GDB Places Dogs
PUPPY RAISING POLICY

Guide Dogs for the Blind believes that early home and community socialization is an essential component
in the successful development of a Guide Dog. To that end, the organization enlists the volunteer support
of puppy raisers and leaders to socialize and prepare Guide Dog puppies for future training in guidework.
The purpose of this policy is to ensure that our volunteer raisers and leaders understand what is expected
of them and agree to make every effort within reason to prepare our puppies for guidework training in
accordance with the procedures set forth by the Puppy Raising Department. The Puppy Raising and
Leader Manuals along with seminars, communications and guidance are provided to ensure consistency in
technique and provide clear explanations of expectations and responsibilities.
Guide Dog raisers, leaders and puppy raising clubs must be approved by the Puppy Raising Department
and are under the direct supervision of Community Field Representatives or CFR. CFRs are responsible
for conveying Guide Dog policies and procedures and ensuring that Guide Dog puppies are raised in
environments that are optimal for their development.
Policy Terms and Definitions:

Guide Dogs puppy raiser:
A youth or adult who applies for the position; agrees to meet

GDBs expectations for puppy raisers, and is approved by a
GDB-approved leader and a GDB puppy raising CFR.
Guide Dogs leader:
An adult individual approved by a GDB puppy raising CFR or

the director of the Puppy Raising and Dog Placement
Department. In addition, if the club also operates under 4-H
auspices, the individual must have an approval letter from the
appropriate County Extension Agent.
Guide Dogs puppy raising

club:
A GDB approved puppy raising group will consist of a minimum

of three (3) approved raiser families and one (1) approved
leader. Generally, the ratio of puppies to leaders should not
exceed six (6) to one (1). Exceptions may be permitted with the
approval of the area GDB puppy raising CFR or the director of
the Puppy Raising and Dog Placement Department.
Youth:
A person nine (9) years of age through nineteen (19) years of

age.
11/2008
BASIC REQUIREMENTS OF PUPPY RAISERS

All Guide Dog puppy raisers are required to:
Be approved to raise by both a GDB approved leader and the current GDB Community Field Rep.
Agree to abide by all instructions, guidelines, policies and procedures presented by Guide Dogs staff,
supervisory volunteers, written documents and other means
Undergo a home visit by a GDB approved leader (this includes all homes in which the puppy will
reside).
Use GDB approved training and management techniques when working with or caring for GDB
puppies.
Raise the puppy inside as a housedog.
Provide a safe and securely fenced yard and/or a safe and secure confinement area for relieving the
pup. The outside area must contain shelter from the elements and access to water.
Provide a method to care for and relieve the puppy at least every 4-5 hours during the daytime until the
puppy is six months old.
Attend and participate in at least 80% of regularly scheduled club meetings and outings.
Provide an environment free of dogs with a history of aggression.
Provide direct supervision when the puppy is with other dogs.
Leave the puppy in a safe, harm free environment (particularly not to leave the puppy alone for
extended periods of time in a fenced yard).
Provide appropriate food, grooming, flea/tick control and veterinary care.
Securely fence swimming pools, spas and other bodies of water to prevent unsupervised access by the
puppy.
Keep all their pet cats and dogs current on their vaccinations and flea/tick control.
Provide a safe setting for teaching the puppy to remain alone, unconfined in the home. We strongly
recommend that raisers have a crate.
Complete and submit monthly to their club leader, a GDB Puppy Raisers Monthly Report
Guidelines for co-raisers and individuals with multiple dogs:
The total number of dogs allowed in any GDB puppy raiser home will vary with each individuals home
situation. The leader must give approval for multiple dog households with final approval by the CFR.
GDB puppies may not reside within a home containing another animal that GDB staff determines
presents a hazard to the puppys safety or development or that the puppy may endanger.
The maximum number of GDB puppies allowed in any one raiser or puppy sitting home is two.
A GDB puppy and any other puppy being raised by the same household must be at least 8 months
apart in age.
A single individual may raise only one GDB puppy or other service dog at a time.
The above list of requirements and guidelines is not comprehensive.

Raisers and leaders are required to follow all instructions, guidelines, policies and
procedures presented by Guide Dogs staff, supervisory volunteers, written
documents and other means.
11/2008
KEEPING PUPPIES ON LEASH

Summary of Policies regarding Puppies on Leash
Lets Prevent Lost Puppies!!!
Guide Dog puppies must wear the Guide Dog identification collar at all times.
Do not go for walks or runs with your puppy off-leash, even in remote or rural areas. It only takes a
moment of inattention or distraction to lose track of your pup.
Guide Dog puppies are never to be allowed off-leash except when in a totally enclosed and secure area.
Guide Dog pups are not allowed at dog parks on or off-leash.
Use a long line or retractable leash to exercise your pup, keeping hold of the line and maintaining control
when exercising your puppy in unfenced or unsecured areas.
Always use your leash when taking your pup to the run, car or in any unfenced area. Keep the leash in a
convenient location so there is no temptation to take him out just this once. Once may be all it takes to
lose your puppy!
Always check gates and doors to outside exits before letting pup out.
Use a chain with a snap bolt to secure kennel gates and fence gates whenever possible. This extra step
ensures that you have securely closed off the enclosure.
Whenever possible, padlock gates which are not regularly used and could lead to escape! Remember that
young children often forget to close gates when busy playing and that friends may not know the rules.
Provide good latches which close securely. Check regularly to be sure they are still working properly.
Replace any poorly working latches as soon as possible.
Teach all household members and visitors to close doors and gates behind them.
Take extra precautions when friends, relatives and workers are visiting. Keep pup on leash or in kennel run
if there is a lot of activity in which people are coming and going and the pup cannot be supervised.
Teach pup to wait at doors, gates, and when exiting vehicles.
Do regular, and frequent inspections of fence perimeters and runs. Check for holes or weak areas and
repair them immediately (Other dogs could dig in!).
PUPPY RAISING TOY POLICY

Toys are an important part a puppys development. Appropriate toys provide mental stimulation, an outlet
for normal chewing drive, and provide a positive alternative to destructive chewing of personal property.
A stimulating variety of toys keeps the puppy occupied. Puppies, like children, become bored with the
same toys; it is highly recommended that types of toys are rotated frequently. Puppies should have a
number of toys to choose from at all times; not only does this help keep the pup engaged but also reduces
the chance of him ultimately becoming protective of his toys.
Not all toys currently on the market are safe for the ages, size or breeds of puppies in our program. In
addition, some toys and activities are counter productive to developing a working guide. Remember, a
guide must willingly work past common distractions such as balls, Frisbees or other toys encountered in
everyday life.
Toys can be an effective tool in reducing attention seeking behaviors such as keep away. Puppies pick up
unacceptable items and parade them to get raisers attention; praising and admiring the pup that parades
his toys will make him less likely to steal household items. A pup that brings his toys to the raiser is to be
encouraged, but under no circumstances should raisers throw toys for a pup or participate in retrieve
games.
Even the best toys experience normal wear and tear. Toys should be routinely checked for any damage,
splintering or wear. Special attention should be paid to ensure the toy has not become worn to the point of
becoming too small, thus posing a choking or ingesting hazard. Some dogs are voracious chewers and will
destroy even the strongest, safest toys. Observe your puppy and use toys with caution with strong
chewers.
In special circumstances CFRs may recommend a food stuffed Kong. Only the CFR, may recommend food
in a toy. Soaked kibble, frozen in the Kong is the only allowed food.
The toys in the list below have been carefully researched by GDB staff; these are the only toys that may be
accessed by a program puppy. Be sure to stay with the brand names listed below as not all toys are of
good quality material.
List of Approved Toys:
General use toys (these toys can be left readily available for a pup to play with at will):
Kong brand: black original and Ultra Kong 6, Planet Kong Xtreme Goodie Ship (no food placed in
it) black Kongs are stronger than red ones
Galileo 5 or 6 by Nylabone, also now packaged as Dino Bones
Nylabone products: Nyla Wishbone, Nyla Ring, Nyla Knot, Dinosaur, any Nylabone (original hard
material) that is appropriately robust enough for the size of puppy. This includes Big Chews; the
red tire is OK but the yellow one is softer and not approved. The colored keys are not approved.
Sterilized Bones: at least 4 long (No smoked or meaty bones)
Goughnuts, green for most puppies and black for extremely hard chewers
With Supervision only:

10/2008
Cressite ring and Fig 8 tug toy

FrameBall by Pedigree tug toy
Combat Extreme Bone by Bamboo Pet tug toy
Knotted rope toys: large, with no attachments
Jollyball (no handle) with a rope through it, sold as Romp-N-Roll. Toss n Floss is a similar large
ball with rope through it, also approved.
Gallon sized or larger plastic bottles: Thoroughly rinsed, lids labels and tops removed (orange juice
or detergent bottles only)
Bounzerballs by Kong.
Tug toys should be put up, away from the puppy, after the game to maintain a balanced relationship. All of
the above toys may be used as interactive toys. Puppies must be directly observed while playing with any
of the above toys as there is a possibility that they may shred and ingest these toys.
Restricted, for young puppies only (up to 4 months):
Gummabone or Flexibone products

Dental Chew toys
Hercules bones
Flat, unstuffed faux fleece toys; no squeakers
Unacceptable toys:
10/2008
Edible toys: cornstarch bones, rawhide chews/toys, pigs ears, cow hooves
Balls
Frisbees
Retrieving toys
Raw bones
Sticks
Personal items: socks, childrens toys etc.
Anything not on the approved list
PUPPY RAISING PLAY POLICY

Acceptable Types of Play
Tug games with one person or hide-and-seek games with two people (See game procedures in 3: Caring for
your puppy section. Please use the proper methods of playing these games).
Hanging out together
Stroking the puppy
Placing a Nylabone or Kong on the floor for limited periods of chewing
Supervised gentle play outside with other dogs
Supervised swimming within a fenced area or on leash
Walks on leash
Unacceptable Types of Play
Retrieving or fetch with any kind of toy or object -- anytime or anywhere

Pushing, shoving, wrestling or any form of rough-housing
Keep away, tag or other forms of chase games
Tug games with other pets
Rough play with other pets
Running through the house
Swinging your puppy off the ground while playing tug games (helicopter dog)
Play that includes growling with hackling (lifting of hair along the backbone and shoulders)
10/2008
PUPPY RAISING NUTRITIONAL POLICY

We appreciate the cooperation of all raisers and leaders in complying with the following puppy raising nutritional policy:
Guide Dogs for the Blind feeds and recommends Hills Science Diet formulas for all of our dogs. At the GDB puppy
kennel, prior to placement in a raiser home, puppies are fed Hills Science Diet Lamb Meal & Rice Puppy Large
Breed, a formula selected through collaboration between the GDB Veterinary and Kennel Departments. Research has
shown, and GDB experience concurs, that large breed diets are effective in helping to limit certain canine orthopedic
maladies.
Leaders and Community Field Representatives (CFRs) will educate raisers on feeding puppies, emphasizing proper
body conditioning which will enhance health and improved orthopedic development. Raisers will feed Hills Science Diet
Lamb Meal & Rice Puppy Large Breed until the puppy is at least of 12 months of age.
Raisers will start feeding 8-week-old pups 1 cup, 3 times a day and then slowly increase the amount of food following
instructions given by their leaders and the feeding guidelines in the Puppy Raising Manual. At your first puppy meeting,
ask your leader when and how much to increase your puppys food. Because each puppy is different, it may require
different feeding amounts than what is listed on the puppy food bag or in this policy.
If your puppy is not doing well on Hills Science Diet, have your leader speak to your CFR, who can evaluate the dogs
individual needs and make additional suggestions in feeding schedules, home behavior monitoring, feeding amounts,
and diets.
CFRs will notify the GDB Veterinary Clinic of any dog's dietary change for recording in the veterinary record. In addition,
within their final Project Record, raisers will record any dietary change, the date of change, and the factors for the
change.
Dogs in training at our campuses are fed Hills Science Diet Lamb Meal & Rice Adult. In order to provide for a more
seamless transition of puppies from raising homes to the training kennel, we recommend that raisers gradually switch
their puppies to Hills Science Diet Lamb Meal & Rice Adult at 12 months of age. Raisers should make the change to
the new diet over a period of 57 days, gradually replacing the previous food with the new one.
At GDB's determination, variations may occur in the above policy guidelines for a variety of reasons, including
a. The special needs of individual dogs under the supervision of or consultation with the GDB Veterinary
Clinic.
b. Future research in canine nutrition
c. Further knowledge gained by GDB through GDB conducted food trials or other research.
Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc.

Effective December 2007
Policy: Boarding Female Dogs In-Season

Guide Dogs for the Blind has adapted the following policy for the boarding of female puppies in
season. This policy governs all puppies placed on or after February 15, 2003:
Raisers who choose to raise unspayed female puppies have the following options for housing inseason female puppies:
At home
In the home of an approved puppy sitter
At a commercial kennel at raiser expense
At Guide Dogs for the Blinds San Rafael or Topanga kennels. Both the San Rafael and
Topanga kennels have capacity limits by population. If the kennels are at capacity for the
boarding of in-season female dogs, raisers will be required to choose one of the other three
approved options.
Homes (raiser or puppy sitter) will be required to follow certain guidelines while the dog is inseason, including:
Female canine seasons (proestrus and estrus) generally run for approximately 21 days, but
individual dogs may stay in-season for longer periods (see "Education" section to follow). It
is during this period when females attract male dogs and enter their fertile period. The
following guidelines are effective from the first through the 28th day of a dog's season or
longer as required. Only the club leader may release a dog from the management of these
guidelines after a consultation between the raiser and leader to insure that the dog is out-ofseason.
The raiser's leader must approve participating homes.
Yard and home security should be of the highest standard. Marginally safe fencing and doors
or young children who could possibly leave doors and gates open may disqualify a home.
No unaltered or recently altered (within the past six weeks) male dogs may live in the home.
The close proximity of neighboring or loose unaltered dogs may disqualify a home.
Participating raisers must be capable dog handlers.
Participating raisers must have a demonstrated willingness and ability to follow all
guidelines.
All participating raisers and family members must be trained by their leaders prior to
boarding a female dog in-season.
No outings outside of the home or yard are allowed.
No interaction with unaltered male dogs is allowed.
While in the house and not under direct supervision of a raiser or GDB trained family
member, a dog must be confined to a crate.
Dogs may not be left in a yard, pen or kennel without direct supervision by a raiser or GDB
trained family member. Male dogs can be attracted to the scent of an estrus female dog from
long distances and can be extremely determined to enter even well confined areas, thus, the
need for direct supervision.
Any dog that becomes lost, loose, or otherwise unsupervised must be reported immediately to
the raiser's advisor or the Puppy Raising Department office regardless of the time period that
the dog has been unsupervised.
Any in-season female dog that comes in any contact with an unaltered male dog must be
reported immediately to the raiser's advisor or the Puppy Raising Department office.

1-27-03
Education: Boarding Female Dogs In-Season

The reproductive cycle of ovulation in dogs is identified as being "in-season" or "in-heat."
During this period female dogs ovulate, generating eggs. In-season dogs are capable of being
bred by male dogs, fertilizing the eggs and producing puppies. Spayed dogs do not come into
season.
The foremost rule to always remember is that exceptions to timing, patterns, and identifying
markers are frequent within individual dogs and between dogs. Raisers and leaders should
always be vigilant in watching for signs of the dogs that they raise coming into, remaining, or
perhaps re-entering seasons (see below).
Generally, dogs come into season every six months beginning some time after six months of age.
Dogs, though, may come into season as early as 4 months of age or as late as a year or more.
Cycles may run like clockwork every six months or they may happen more or less frequently.
Dogs may even start a season, appear to go out-of-season, and start immediately again. This
pattern is often referred to as a "split season." One can see the need for raisers and leaders to
continually monitor dogs and not to trust any pattern to apply to individual dogs. Failing to
properly identify the cycle of an individual dog may lead to an accidental breeding.
A standard season runs for approximately 21 days. The season may be preceded by a slight
swelling of the dog's vulva. The season begins with a bright or dark red discharge from the dog's
vulva. The discharge initially may be no more than a drop. Many females keep themselves very
clean, and there may be no visible blood around the vulvar area. As the season progresses
through the first week or so, the discharge generally increases and then decreases in volume and
color. The vulva can be very enlarged and turgid during the first week, and then begins to soften.
Some dogs may have a very heavy discharge and swelling; others may show lesser signs. Again,
diligence in monitoring all dogs as individuals is required.
After being in-season for approximately seven to ten days, the amount and color of the discharge
will lighten. The swelling will also lessen. In some dogs the reduction of swelling and discharge
may be so significant that the dog appears to be out of season. This is not the case. The dog is
actually entering her most fertile period when a male can inseminate her! Extra caution is
needed. It is also important to note that sperm can be viable and capable of impregnating an
estrus female dog for as long as 7 days following a single mating. Therefore, one inattentive
moment can lead to an unwanted pregnancy.
As the days pass and the swelling and discharge continue to lighten, the dog is still breedable.
Some dogs are capable of conceiving beyond the twentieth day of season. Raisers must
continually be cautious, following our guidelines for at least 28 days, and not lessening the
required supervision until released by their leader.
Sometimes a female may go through what is known as a silent heat. This is when the usual
physical signs of the heat cycle, the swelling and the bleeding, are not present. You may still see
behavioral changes, including an increased interest from or with other dogs.

1-27-03
Education: Boarding Female Dogs In-Season
-cont-
Other behavioral indicators may or may not be present. During and in the time surrounding a
dogs season, there may be a change in overall activity levels, with the female becoming much
more active and busy. The change in behaviors may include flagging (raising the tail), play
bowing or tipping forward, increased barking or whining, inability to settle or relax, and
becoming more destructive. There may be an increase in level of thirst or appetite, and a change
in elimination habits. The female may seem nervous or more high-strung. These behavioral
changes can begin to occur up to three or four weeks before the physical signs of the heat cycle.
More commonly, they occur in the week before the physical signs begin. In some females, there
may be no noticeable change in behaviors at all. In others, just one or two of those listed. Also,
behavioral changes do not always indicate the onset of the heat cycle. At the beginning of her
cycle, the female may become less tolerant of other dogs approaching or sniffing her. She may
lift her lip, growl, hackle, or even snap at the other dog. Instead of wagging her tail when other
dogs sniff her rear, she may tuck it tightly straight down against her body. This does not mean
she is becoming aggressive. It is a normal behavioral change. She will be her friendly self once
again when her cycle is over. If you suspect a silent heat cycle, notify your advisor through your
leader.
Occasionally, towards the end of the heat cycle or in the weeks following it, the increase in
hormone levels may cause the mammary glands to become active and to produce milk. Some
people call this a false pregnancy. This is not considered abnormal; but again, please notify
your advisor through your leader.
Any sign of recurring discharge or swelling requires additional management by the prescribed
guidelines and must be reported immediately to the club leader who will speak to your advisor.
Again, please always remember that exceptions to any patterns are frequent and that all dogs must
be managed individually and with caution.
A leader who is uncertain of a dog's reproductive cycle should consult with his/her advisor, who
may recommend a veterinary consult with the GDB veterinary clinic.
Any female in-season dogs that come into contact with an unaltered male dog or become loose,
lost, or otherwise unsupervised must be reported immediately to the advisor or the Puppy Raising
Department office if the advisor is unavailable.
We believe that this program presents an excellent opportunity for raisers to maintain the training
and bond, which they devote to the puppies that they raise. We also respect raisers abilities to
safely house puppies in all instances. This program is representative of that trust. We appreciate
the extra efforts of those who decide to undertake these additional responsibilities.

1-27-03
REASONS FOR PLACING OR RETAINING A PUPPY IN THE HOME

Guide Dogs for the Blind reserves the right to place or remove a puppy from a home at the organizations
discretion. Puppies will not be placed or are removed if it is our belief that they are in danger of death, injury, or
other health concerns. Puppies may also be removed if it is believed that they are not being socialized or
trained in a manner that best develops them as potential Guide Dogs.
Possible reasons for the non-placement or removal of a Guide Dog puppy from a home include:
A home containing another animal that Guide Dogs staff determines presents a hazard to the puppy's
safety or development.
A home containing any person that Guide Dogs staff determines presents a hazard to the puppys safety or
development.
A home containing another animal that Guide Dogs staff determines may be endangered by the puppy.
A home containing any person that Guide Dogs staff determines may be endangered by the puppy.
Physical abuse of the dog or puppy
Use of unapproved corrections
Lack of proper health care: veterinary, nutrition, parasite control, grooming
Lack of adequate socialization
Inability of the raiser or significant family members to control the puppies actions
Repeated instances of the puppy getting loose or lost
Injury of the puppy through willful disregard to Guide Dog guidelines
Poor attendance by the raiser at required Guide Dog group activities
Endangerment to the puppy because of unsafe living conditions
Poor compliance by the raiser with Guide Dog policies, procedures, or recommendations
Relocation of a raiser to an area that is not supervised by a Guide Dogs for the Blind Puppy Raising
Department employee
Inappropriate representation of the Guide Dog program to the public or media
If staff determines that a career change dog that a raiser wishes to accept in his or her home is an unsuitable
match for a Guide Dog puppy, the raiser must either decline the career change dog or return the puppy.
Guide Dogs for the Blind acknowledges that the death, severe injury, or loss of a Guide Dog puppy is
devastating for everyone involved. It is a loss for the raiser, the family, the leader, the club, and Guide Dogs.
We feel it is important that the family and raiser take time to grieve their loss.
Guide Dogs will not automatically replace the puppy or return an injured puppy to the raiser. The Puppy
Raising advisor or leader will discuss all of the circumstances of the situation with the family. The leader and
Puppy Raising advisor will then evaluate when, and if, it is appropriate for the family to raise another pup.
Homes in which a puppy is injured due to willful non-compliance with Guide Dogs guidelines will not be allowed
to continue puppy raising.
Guide Dogs for the Blind develops its policies and procedures to provide for the safety and well-being, along
with the positive socialization and training needed for every puppy to reach its full potential as a Guide Dog.
Helpful Resources for Puppy Raisers

There are many books and internet sites on the subject of dog guides, puppy raising and blindness. The
following list provides a sampling. Although some outlined programs that differ in philosophies and
techniques from those used by Guide Dogs for the Blind, we believe there are things to be learned from
each of these books and internet sites. Happy reading!
Available from our Guide Dog campus gift shops:
A GUIDE DOG PUPPY GROWS UP
LOOKING AHEAD: A HISTORY OF GUIDE DOGS
FOR THE BLIND
OUT OF DARKNESS: THE STORY OF LOUIS BRAILLE
TEACHERS PET (AMERICAN GIRL SERIES)
THE GUIDE DOG MYSTERY
THE STORY OF SUNSHINE (COLORING BOOK)
Paula Harrington
Russell Freedman
Laurie Halse Anderson
Gertrude C. Warner
Produced by GDB
For younger readers:

BANNER FORWARD *
BRAVE COMPANIONS
BUDDY: THE FIRST SEEING EYE DOG
FOLLOW MY LEADER
LIGHT A SINGLE CANDLE *
LOOKING OUT FOR SARAH
THROUGH OTIS EYES
Eva Rappaport
R.A. Knight
Eva Moore
James B. Garfield
Beverly Butler
Glenna Lang
Patricia Kennedy
Blindness and dog guides:

A DOG TO TRUST: SAGA OF A SEEING EYE DOG
EMMA, V.I.P.
FIRST LADY OF THE SEEING EYE
I NEVER WALKED ALONE
LEADER DOGS FOR THE BLIND
LEADING THE WAY: THE STORY OF LEADER DOGS
LOVE IN THE LEAD *
NONE SO BLIND
THE LEADING LADY: DINAHS STORY
J.E. Chipperfield
Sheila Hocken
Morris Frank & B. Clark
Jessie Hickford
Margaret Gibbs
Williams Eisenberg
Peter Putnam
Bernice Clifton
Tom Sullivan & Betty White
Raising and training:

APPLIED DOG BEHAVIOR AND TRAINING
GUIDE DOGS FOR THE BLIND:
SELECTION, DEVELOPMENT & TRAINING
NEW KNOWLEDGE OF DOG BEHAVIOR
Caroline Arnold
Steven Lindsay
Clarence Pfaffenberger
Clarence Pfaffenberger
Internet Sites:
BLINDNESS ORGANIZATIONS AND RESOURCES www.guidedogs.com/Resources
HOTEL LISTINGS WHERE PETS ARE WELCOME www.petswelcome.com
* These books are currently out of print. However, you may be able to obtain a copy through your local library or an
online store that sells used books, such as www.amazon.com. Many of these authors may have additional books
written about similar topics.

Canine Community Programs
P.O. Box 151200
San Rafael, CA 94915-1200
(800) 295-4050
Fax: (415) 472-0128
FUN THINGS ABOUT MY PUPPY

This form is a brief history that Guide Dogs would like to give to your puppys new
caretaker, who could be a Guide Dog user, a breeder keeper, or a career change
adopter.
This completed form should accompany your puppy when he returns for Guide Dog
training. This information is appreciated by whoever will receive your puppy. We
encourage you to also include any photos of your puppy.
Dogs name: _________________________________________Tattoo#: ________________

Raisers name: _______________________________________________________________
Address: ____________________________________________________________________
City/State/Zip Code: __________________________________________________________
Phone number(s): ___________________________________________________________
E-mail address: ______________________________________________________________
I would like to provide the above contact information to the new caretaker:
____ YES
____ NO
Signature of raiser: ____________________________________________Date:_____________

If raiser is under 18 years, guardian name: ________________________________________
Signature: ________________________________Date:____________
Page 1 of 2
FUN THINGS ABOUT MY PUPPY

Dogs name:_________________________ Tattoo #: ____________
Including this puppy, I have raised _____ guide dog puppies.
My puppys home environment: __________________________________________________

_________________________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________________________
My puppys favorite companions (family members, work pals, other pets):
_________________________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________________________
My puppys bedtime routine: _____________________________________________________

_________________________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________________________
My puppys daily diet consists of: ________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________________________
Let me tell you about my puppys personality: ____________________________________

_________________________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________
My puppys favorite travel adventure was: _______________________________________
____________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________________________
Page 2 of 2
Date: ___________________
Contact:
Guide Dog Puppy Raiser:_____________________________
Phone: ___________________________________________
E-mail: ___________________________________________
FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
DOG GRADUATES AS GUIDE DOG

Local resident ___________________ contributed time and love in raising a
puppy for Guide Dogs for the Blind, and was proud to see the dog graduate as a
guide in a formal ceremony at the Guide Dog campus in (San Rafael, Calif., or
Boring, Ore.), on Saturday, ______________.
Shown in the attached photo is puppy raiser _________________________ who
presented Guide Dog __________________, a _______________ breed, to
graduating student: _______________________________________________.
Puppy raiser ________________ is a member of the local Guide Dog Puppy
Raising Club ___________________ led by __________________. The club
has _______ members who volunteer in a variety of jobs.
Guide Dogs for the Blind uses yellow and black Labrador Retrievers, Golden
Retrievers and Lab/Golden Crosses as guides. The puppies are born at the
Guide Dog kennels and placed in the homes of volunteer puppy raisers when
they are about two months old. The puppy raisers socialize the pups by housebreaking them, teaching them to be good canine citizens and introducing them to
new experiences.
The pups are returned to Guide Dogs for formal guidework training when they
are 14 to 18 months old. Following the completion of training, the dogs are
matched with blind students enrolled at the school. The new person-dog team
completes an intensive in-residence course culminating with a graduation
ceremony at which the raiser formally presents the dog to the dogs new partner
who is blind.
Guide Dogs for the Blind has been creating life-long partnerships in the
community by providing skilled dogs and training in their use free of charge since
1942. They receive no government funding but depend entirely on private
donations. If you know someone who could benefit from a Guide Dog, please let
them know about this program. To get involved, contact Guide Dogs for the Blind
at 800 295-4050; or visit www.guidedogs.com.
RECALL FOR TRAINING

PHASE DESCRIPTIONS
Where your dog goes next
INTRODUCTION TRAINING PHASES

In an effort to provide raisers and leaders with more knowledge about what the dogs-intraining do after they return to one of our campuses, we will provide weekly reports to
each puppy raising club. These reports will tell the training phase of each dog. There are
ten phases of training.
Attached are descriptions of activities included in each phase. By tracking the dog that
you raised by his phase number and by then referring to the matching phase narrative, you
can better understand our training process and your individual dogs role in it.
There is no clear defining line between each phase as there is in the case of a grade
schooler who "graduates" from grade two to grade three. Guide Dog training is a seamless
process in which a dog progresses at its own pace, slowly transitioning from one phase to
the other. The work at each phase level builds upon the skills learned in previous ones.
Each phase is generally two to three weeks in lengths. Some dogs may advance through
phases more quickly than others, but speed may not be any indicator of likelihood of
eventual graduation. It is also true that a dog that seems to spend too much time in a
phase may be only working on perfecting a single task before moving forward. Raisers,
please do not feel disappointed if progress seems slow. Likewise, do not become too eager
if progress seems quick.
Raisers should also be cautioned against plotting out on a calendar an anticipated
graduation date. Dogs are usually in training for four to five months, but some dogs may
stay in training for nine months or more. If a dog stays a long time in training, don't be
disappointed. It may not mean that we do not like the dog; it may mean that we like him
very much! In recent years, Guide Dogs has made changes in our training staffing,
schedules, and protocols that allow us to spend more time developing each dog. We try our
best to give each dog all the love, care, and training that it needs to become a Guide Dog
prospect.
The guide dog of today needs to be Superdog compared to the guide dog of the past. In
the last few decades, since the founding of Guide Dogs for the Blind, the world has
become an increasingly confusing environment for guide dogs.
They carry the
responsibility for the safety not just of themselves but for their blind or visually impaired
partner as well. Cars are more dangerous (faster and quieter); noise has increased
(construction equipment, concerts, movie theaters); intersections are varied with a
thousand different designs of intersecting paths, slopes, and angles. Take a walk on a busy
city street and study it from the perspective of a guide dog needing to travel it safely,
calmly and confidently. Quite amazing, isn't it?

June 2007
The instructors work hard to prepare each guide candidate for the challenges of this new
world. Unfortunately, dogs that may have been ideal guides in the more slowly paced, less
confusing world of not long ago might be career changed today. Guide Dogs believes that
we are breeding better dogs than ever, that we are screening them better for health and
temperament, and that raisers and staff are working harderall in an attempt to keep up
with a world that seems to getting more complex.
In the phase descriptions that follow, we have shared information with you that we never
have before this project's inception. We talk about many of the training exercises and
commands that are not taught in the raiser homes. The success of this new reporting
method and of our dogs depends upon all raisers supporting our efforts by not teaching
these guidework commands or exercises in their homes. Raisers who may attempt to give
their dogs "a head start" by teaching the guidework discussed in this package are, in fact,
very negatively impacting the dog's potential to become a guide.
Improperly,
inconsistently, or untimely taught guide commands or exercises will damage a dog's chance
to become a guide. Please do not try to teach your puppy the techniques we discuss in this
package, please only teach the ones discussed in your Guide Dog Puppy Manual.
At certain times a dogs weekly training report may reflect a phase that differs from their
previous weeks report. Passing a dog back does not necessarily reflect concerns, but
always reflects that we continue to see positive traits in the dog. One reason for this
occurring is because each string of dogs are in various stages of training, the phase of a
dog who is transferred from one string to another, which can occur for several reasons,
will change. For example, a dog who is in phase ten, and considered class ready, is not
selected for class. This dog will subsequently be passed back and will be available for
placement in the next class. Since the string that this dog has been passed to will be in a
different phase, probably a lower phase, the dog will also be formally documented as being
in the lower phase, even though they have technically completed phase ten and is
considered class ready.
On weekly Phase Reports you will also see a notation if your dog is on "breeding watch." If
the dog is on "breeding watch," we are still considering it as a breeder. If a dog is no
longer on "breeding watch," it will be neutered if that procedure has not already been done
while in the raiser home.
Some dogs, unfortunately, do not go on to become either guides or breeders. These dogs
are what we call career change dogs. Near the end of this package you will see several
articles on career change dogs that will help you better understand your possible options
on receiving the dog back. Youll also learn how Guide Dogs takes every effort to find
loving, caring homes for those dogs we place.
Guide Dogs for the Blind has been very successful for many, many years. Our success is
dependent upon all those many successes that you have at home - teaching your puppy to
June 2007
not relieve in the house, to only relieve on command, to respond to every obedience
command, to be unafraid of distractions in your community, and to love and trust people.
Dogs can be career changed for many factors not in a raiser's control, including a dog's
health, temperament, or guidework skills. A raiser's success should be measured by the
amount of love, effort, and time spent with a puppy. If you worked your hardest and did
your best, you should be proud of both yourself and your puppy. We are!

June 2007
PHASE 1 OF FORMAL GUIDE DOG TRAINING
Week 0
Before formal training begins, the new dog is introduced to the Guide Dog kennels, campus
walks and the formal training program.
The first step for each dog during this important transitional period is receiving a physical
exam, which is usually performed by a Canine Welfare Technician (CWT). They thoroughly
check each dog from head to tail and check the nose, teeth, eyes, ears, coat, skin and feet.
Any ailments, abnormalities or concerns are noted by the attending CWT and are brought
to the attention of the Veterinary staff. Most dogs that enter training are in excellent
condition, while some will require medication for minor ailments such as an ear infections or
conjunctivitis.
Within the first week on campus:
9 A staff veterinarian x-rays each dogs hips.
9 A staff veterinarian will examine any abnormality noted during the
physical
9 An eye specialist formally checks each dogs eyes.
9 Gets an accurate weight
During this initial examination each dog also receives vaccines for:
9
9
9
9
9
9
Distemper
Hepatitis
Parvovirus
Parainfluenza
Bordatella
Rabies
After the hip x-ray and eye check are completed, some dogs will be put on the breeding
"watch list." All others still intact will be neutered or spayed. Those dogs being considered
for the Breeding Colony, but end up not selected will be altered later, once the Training
and Breeding departments have evaluated them.
When the physical examinations have been completed, each dog is formally assigned to a
string and a specific training kennel. A string consists of approximately 35 55 dogs in San
Rafael and 20 25 dogs in Oregon. This count depends on the number of students
expected to enter class training following the completion of the string's training, which
takes approximately five months. Most strings are overseen by five instructors and four
to five Canine Welfare Technicians in San Rafael and three instructors and two CWTs in
Oregon.

June 2007
Before formal obedience training begins, each dogs personality and controllability are
evaluated to prepare instructors in how to motivate and teach each dog most effectively.
Phase one normally coincides with the team of Instructors returning from a graduate
follow up trip, after they have completed a class. Until the team is back, the CWTs and
the float instructor staff care for the new dogs by:
9 taking them for walks on campus
9 integrating the dogs into community run play sessions
9 matching roommates in the kennel to ensure happy pairs that play well
together
9 daily grooming
9 administering any medication
9 ensuring that the dogs are eating well
9 human and dog interactive play sessions
9 providing kennel enrichment activities
Kennel enrichment is anything that stimulates the senses and decreases stress in a kennel
environment. The Canine Welfare Technicians primary focus is to care and provide kennel
enrichment for the dogs in the kennel. Some enrichment takes place daily for every dog,
while other activities are done intermittently, while other activities are targeted towards
specific dogs (stressed dogs, boarding and retired guides, career changes, breeding stock
waiting for homes). Kennel enrichment activities are continuously evolving and the CWT
staff is continually coming up with ways to entertain and stimulate your puppies.
Enrichment activities consist of the following variety:
9
9
9
9
9
9
9
9
9
9
9
9
9
9
9
Bones and chewable toys

Food stuffed Kongs and ice cubes
Hanging toys with or without food in them
Plush and squeaky toys these toys are closely monitored and are not
recommended to our raisers or graduates
Interactive toys
Baby pools filled with water or a toy put in them
Playground equipment
Scents: vanilla, peppermint, anise, lemon, almond, etc sprayed in the kennel
on the ground
Bubbles
Mirrors
Wind catchers
Sound Machines
Music
Wellness room: T-Touch, massage, and Reiki
Behavior Training for dogs that need additional socialization or for career
changes or breeders waiting for placement.

June 2007
9 Exercise: walks, treadmill, yards

9 Pilates
9 Cuddle Time
Training department staff is carefully observing each new arriving string of dogs in order
to make sure that each dog is making as smooth an adjustment to the kennels as possible.
Dogs can receive additional:
9 Kennel enrichment programs
9 Agility programs
9 Play sessions in community run
9 Frequent walks on campus
9 Consistent, supervised, time in the Training department office
9 Nights spent supervised in the dormitory
9 Any specialized programs specific to the needs of that dog (vet care,
extra time in the office, etc.)

June 2007
Approximately Weeks 1-2

Formal Training Begins Using The Balanced Education System of Training Guide Dogs
(BEST Guide Dogs)
Food Reward and Clicker Techniques

The desired goal of adopting food reward techniques into formal training was to
discover a more effective means to reward and motivate dogs to work in general. With the
working environments for guide dogs becoming increasingly more stressful, any means of
creating a more positive attitude towards guide dog work was sought after.
After several successful food reward trials we found that dogs in training were
demonstrating higher levels of confidence in work and graduates were experiencing quick
and encouraging results with using food as a supplement to praise.
Following 4 years of success using food rewards GDB has trialed and successfully
adopted Clicker Training Techniques into all aspects of formal training. Through 2005 and
2006 all instructor staff was educated and coached in applying clicker techniques in string
training. An ongoing professional Clicker Training consultant continues to be utilized as
techniques are expanded and modified to best suit the goals in guide dog training.
During the first week of training lots of time is spent with each dog teaching them
collar response and while using clicker techniques.
NOTE: Puppy Raisers should not use a clicker when working with their puppies. This
way their pups go into training with a clean slate as far as clicker associations.
Obedience and Distraction Training
Primary focus is on collar response and responses to praise. These are the communication
tools for training; the collar cues the dog's body and the praise motivates the dog to work.
Martingale collars are used with all dogs starting training. Dogs requiring firmer collar
corrections when distracted also wear a slip training collar, which is used when needed.
Formality in Obedience Commands is introduced:
Sit, Down, Heel (formal recall) and Stay are introduced as precise positions
in relation to the handler. As a guide dog these precise positions are important so
the dog does not interfere with or disorient their blind handler. Come (informal
recall) is worked on leash in a variety of areas and off leash in small-enclosed areas,
progressing to off leash in the community runs. Precise Heel position while
handler is moving is introduced at the same time the dog is learning to walk ahead
of the handler when in harness.
Once dogs show an understanding of basic obedience work, distractions are introduced to
help teach focus and concentration towards a job. Distractions include other dogs, food,
overly friendly people, scents, etc. If a dog demonstrates poor responses to motivation or
collar cues, it will be placed on programs to improve their responses. Special programs
June 2007
include: different types of play sessions to evaluate the type of handler interaction the
dog responds to best, extra time with Instructor (relaxing time) to develop a closer
relationship and extra obedience sessions without distractions to improve collar response.
Food Refusal
All dogs go through extensive and specialized training in how to accept food reward
and how to refuse food in all other situations. This specialized Food Protocol
training was designed to handle the delicate challenge of using food in training for a
future guide dog and ensure that no negative behaviors will result around food for a
future blind handler.
Body Work
Development of suitable responses to in depth grooming, pilling, bathing, ear cleaning,
teeth cleaning, feeding, playing with a visually impaired handler begin. Body handling
responses are evaluated and programs developed to improve issues.
Guidework Training
Introduction to wearing the harness:
Calm introduction being harnessed and standing with it on, then walking around in
harness and wearing it in relaxed settings. Dogs with sensitivity to wearing the
harness are put on a TTouch program and wear only the body part until they accept
it. Dogs with extreme sensitivity are put on specialized socialization programs for
the harness sensitivity.
Treadmill Training
Designed to physically train dogs in the mechanics of a rhythmic gait/speed and
maintenance of that gait while leading in harness. The appropriate pace and speed
are also identified for each individual dog during treadmill training. All dogs receive
a very systematic and careful introduction to walking on the treadmill to ensure
they are not only safe while using it but enjoy their time on the treadmill. The
introduction techniques are so successful that its common to see dogs trying to get
on the treadmill before their turn while waiting for only their second session.
NOTE: Puppy Raisers should never put their pups on treadmills or escalators.
Dogs in treadmill training are introduced to the Forward, Halt, and Hopp-Up
commands while learning to pull into harness with a straight body position.
Dogs receive 3 treadmill sessions before beginning harness workouts downtown with
their instructors.
Physical Agility Development

Dogs are introduced to low height agility obstacles to promote confidence on
unusual surfaces and develop coordination for stair and escalator work. Methods
June 2007
used teach the dogs careful placement of their feet using caution on the obstacles
at slow speeds (very different from methods of teaching pet dogs agility).
Coordination training in how to physically back up is introduced at this time and will
continue for several weeks to prepare dogs for future traffic avoidance training.
In traffic avoidance, dogs must back up in a straight line while facing the oncoming
vehicle. This Back-up training program teaches dogs the mechanics of backing up in
a very positive and fun way.
Obstacle Course
Dogs are walked, on leash, through gradually more challenging clearance courses
with obstacles. Leash cues are used by Instructor to move in the desired way a
finished guide would move. Dogs are encouraged to walk slightly ahead of
Instructor. Courses are designed so that new dogs will not need to stop, but keep
moving to work the safe path out of the course.

June 2007
Approximately Weeks 3 & 4

The Balanced Education System of Training Guide Dogs(BEST Guide Dogs)
Obedience and Distraction training

Formality in obedience responses continues:
Sit, Down, Heel (formal recall), and Stay are more intensively trained. More
precise positioning next to the handler is expected, so that the dog will not
interfere with or disorient a blind handler. Come (informal recall) response
continues on leash and in progressively larger enclosed areas of both cement and
grass off-leash. Precise Heel position while handler is moving is introduced and
when in harness dog learning to walk ahead of the handler.
Over Here is introduced. Response is to change sides, behind handlers back, to
the instructors opposite side. This is to make it easier for a blind handler to
maneuver the dog safely through heavy doors on the dogs side, revolving doors,
store turnstiles, etc.
General collar response and praise response:
More difficult distractions are introduced. Various dog breeds, people-food, very
solicitous people, unusual scents. Specialized programs continue: kennel enrichment,
harness socialization, etc.
Body work:
Responses to detailed grooming, pilling, bathing, ear cleaning, teeth cleaning,
feeding, playing, in manners done by a visually impaired handler. Rolling dog over for
care and inspection in a variety of environmental situations. Body handling responses
continue to be developed and improved.
Canine Welfare Technicians continue to focus on kennel enrichment activities, relaxing
time in community run, grooming and campus walks.
Guidework Training BEST Guide Dogs
Wearing the harness:
Dogs are comfortable wearing and working in the physical harness. Dogs having
sensitivity to wearing the harness are on specialized programs. Individual dogs not
improving in the wearing of a harness would be of concern.
June 2007
Pattern Training
Pattern Training is a method of introducing guidework behaviors to the young dog in
a very positive manner.
The instructor causes the correct guiding behavior to happen by cueing the dog
before any mistakes are made. Pattern Training immediately introduces the young
dog to all guidework responses without taking confidence away from the dog.
The dog is prevented from making any errors while experiencing all of the basic
guidework mechanics. In this way the instructor keeps all guidework related
learning very upbeat for the dog.
Obedience commands are used separately from guidework commands to regain
attention on the instructor. Once the dog is again attentive, the pattern training of
guidework behavior resumes.
Pattern training lasts for approximately 4 weeks. During that time, techniques
gradually progress to more standard training, which gives the guide dog more
freedom to make errors.
During Pattern Training, dogs can be worked in a variety of environments, even
challenging work areas, because the instructor causes the right responses to
happen. Only extremely advanced work areas are avoided, such as those with
crowds of pedestrians and stressful environments.
Dogs are being introduced to and learning these guidework behaviors:
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Stopping at streets, regardless of the type of curb or wheelchair ramp

Clearing for the handler on the right side
Clearing for the handler on the left side
Clearing for the handler above the dogs head
Crossing streets in a straight line or adjusting that line to reach the up curb
on the other side. [Dogs also receive targeting training in how to seek out
the up curb by placing their front feet on that curb]
Moving forward at a consistent pace on the command Forward
Resuming that consistent pace on the command Hopp-Up or moving closer
to a stopping point
Stopping and standing stationary on the command Halt
Leading the handler in a 90 degree turn to the right and pick up the new
travel line on Right
Leading the handler in a 90 degree turn to the left and pick up the new
travel line on Left
To ease off on the amount of pull into the harness on the command Steady

June 2007
Physical Agility Programs Continue as in Phase 2.

Obstacle Course Progression:
Dogs continue to be walked through the course on leash if they are not ready to
work it in harness. Some dogs progress to guiding through clearance course with
obstacles, still being leash cued by Instructor to move in the desired way a finished
guide would move. Course design becomes more difficult, requiring more angled
clearance moves by the dogs but not requiring a stop.
Socialization Training:
9 Dogs are introduced to riding in the training van crates. A separate
configuration of crates, just like in the vans is located in the kennel complex.
All dogs are introduced to jumping in and out of this mock crate set before
being put in an actual training van. Dogs then experience loading and unloading
from crates in the van, riding comfortably and quietly, and waiting quietly in the
van for their turn at a training route.
9 Dogs may be identified during this Phase for specialized socialization programs
for fears or distraction. (Training Supervisor makes those decisions)
9 Food protocol training continues teaching how to avoid and refuse food on the
ground or offered by others.

June 2007

The Balanced Education System of Training Guide Dogs(BEST Guide Dogs)

Continued development of collar and praise responses:
Work on development of reliable responses in various environments (formal,
informal and during guidework). Progression is to the extent where minimal repeat
commands or leash cues are necessary. Instructor is beginning to act and handle
dog as a visually impaired person would.
Difficult Distractions
Continue as in Phase 3.
Body handling responses
Continue as in Phase 3 to develop consistent response and improvement where
necessary.
Guidework Training
Dogs are comfortable wearing and working in the physical harness. Individual dogs
still having problems wearing a harness would be of concern, but still kept on
socialization programs to improve behavior.
Pattern Training Progression
Instructors are now allowing the dog more freedom to make decisions and to make
some mistakes. When errors begin to occur, instructors will show the dog the
correct answer before they get confused. Basic level guidework responses are
being directed to the dog as a blind handler would.
The dog is experiencing all guidework behaviors with the instructor still patterning
any advanced responses.
Progression with guidework responses to the extent that each dog can maintain a
straight line of travel with the Instructor under blindfold and respond to each
command consistently with minimal leash gestures or leash cues. Introductions to
maintaining a line of travel in spite of a visually impaired handlers natural body
movements. Focus on developing the working pace and pull that will be the final
pace and pull for client.
Responsible lead lessons for each dog occurs at the end of the of pattern training.
Responsibility in work responses is gradually increased and tested. They are now
June 2007
learning how to pull more responsibly and consistently into the harness chest piece
on command and maintain a straight line of travel while moving. Appropriate level of
pull and pace is established for each individual dog.
Physical Agility Programs
Obstacle Course Progression
Dogs are now guiding in harness through clearance course with obstacles still being
leash cued, if necessary, to move in the desired way a finished guide would move.
Course design becomes more difficult, requiring more angled clearance moves by
the dogs. Clearances requiring a stop are introduced.
CWTs continue to focus on kennel enrichment, relaxing time in community run,
grooming and campus walks.

June 2007
Approximately Week 7
The Balanced Education System of Training Guide Dogs (BEST Guide Dogs)
Notable Accomplishment: Preliminary Obedience Testing

Responses to Sit, Down, Heel, Come, Stay are demonstrated to a Training
Supervisor and expected to be understood, fairly consistent and generally gained
with single commands.
Command responses are documented. Heavy distraction offered during exercises.
Demonstration of food refusal required.
General ease of body handling is demonstrated.
Body Work
Body handling responses continue for consistent response and improvement where
necessary. New Handlers added to body handling experiences.
Guidework Training:
Formal Harness Training:
Dogs now have full freedom to make decisions and some mistakes with normal
guidework responses. When errors begin to occur, instructors will continue to show
the dog the correct answer before they get confused. The instructor will still
pattern challenging and advanced guiding decisions and responses.
Difficult travel line problems and open parking lot areas are worked to further
establish responsible line stability.
Challenging animal and food distractions are set up for new area guidework routes.
Instructors practice short blindfold sessions with their dogs, having a teammate
spot them for safety. This gives them information regarding what guidework
behaviors are strong and weak in an individual dog, allowing them to focus on
improving those weaker areas.
Notable Accomplishment - Preliminary Blindfold Testing
Instructor under blindfold works dog on an urban/suburban area route, a distance
of approximately 14 blocks. Passing requirements are for dog to display an
June 2007
understanding of safe guidework skills and focus on work and handler. Obedience
exercises are done at some point on route, usually when distraction is present.
Dogs passing Preliminary Blindfold testing will be able to progress to Advanced
Guidework Training. Dogs not passing receive further training and are re-tested
when ready.
Physical Agility Programs
Obstacle Course Progression
Dogs are guiding through more challenging clearance courses as more finished
guides. Course designs become increasingly difficult, requiring development of
problem solving skills and Intelligent Disobedience responses.
Socialization Training
Extra socialization assignments are given to individual dogs needing them. Areas
that may require additional socialization are harness or surface sensitive dogs
and/or dogs with a higher stress levels in the kennel
Canine Welfare Technicians focus on extra relaxing times for all dogs during this
progressively more stressful learning stage of formal guide dog training.
Tools used are community running, kennel enrichment programs, grooming, individual
play sessions, office time at desks of staff and relaxing campus walks.

June 2007

Continued development and consistent response in various environments
9 Formal Exercises
9 Informal Exercises
Difficult Distractions
New animal and common dog interest distractions sought out, response evaluated.
Individual distractions that interest each individual dog is worked on separately (i.e.
squirrels for some, birds for others). New handlers and instructors are introduced
to continue development and monitor consistent responses in various environments
(formal, informal and during guidework).
Body Handling
New handlers added to body handling experiences. Any problems still present would be of
great concern for success as a guide.
Guidework Training
Routes continue in suburban areas and progress to downtown urban areas.
Focus on improving any response weaknesses noted at preliminary blindfold testing. Major
weaknesses have individual programs developed, including transferring dog to another
string from more training time.
Socialization Programs
Individual dogs may be identified as demonstrating need for specialized socialization
programs for fear reactions observed, as training becomes more difficult. (Training
Supervisor decisions)
ADVANCED HARNESS TRAINING BEGINS
Obstacle Course Progression - Intelligent Disobedience Training Begins
Advanced clearance problems are first introduced to the dogs on campus in the obstacle
course, then sought out on real environment routes. Situations are set up to introduce
disobeying the handler for the sake of safety.
June 2007
CWTs continue to focus on kennel enrichment, relaxing time in community run, grooming
and campus walks during the progressively more stressful stages of formal guide dog
training.

June 2007


Continued development and consistent responses in various environments (formal,
informal and during guidework) and with new handlers.
Advanced Guidework Training
Suburban and downtown urban areas with challenging environments
Notable Accomplishment -Traffic Conditioning (Week 9)
Dogs are introduced to traffic safety problems and shown how to deal with them as a guide. Dogs learn to
stop, hold line when stopped, and to back up on their line when a vehicle gets too close.
Notable Accomplishment - Formal Traffic Training (week 10)

Dogs are taught responsibility in making emergency decisions with traffic problems.
Dogs learn to decide when to stop, hold line, back up or even scoot forward on
their travel line for safety of the team. Dog learns to maintain position, face the
vehicle, and to proceed on original line when danger has passed.
Supplemental training in backing away from a vehicle is given (on campus) to
individual dogs who have a difficulty with the response.
Total Barricade Training
Training in how to inform the handler of objects totally blocking the travel path and
then work safely around them.
Overhead obstacle clearance introduction
An overhead clearance is any obstacle that is over the dogs head. During this part
of training the dog is taught to look up and look out for this type of clearance.
Advanced Work Routes (San Francisco & Portland)
New work areas introduced to the dogs. Difficult crossings, clearances, line
problems, animal distractions, surface issues, curb approach challenges, pedestrian
islands.
9 Large City
9 City Traffic patterns
9 Crowded sidewalks
June 2007
9 Different Pedestrian climate

9 Large government and business building work
9 Very heavy and close traffic
Pre Matching with Blind Applicants

Dogs are identified for individual applicants with special needs and requirements in a guide
dog.
CWTs continue to focus on kennel enrichment, relaxing time away from guidework
lessons (community run, grooming, play sessions, campus walks, dog massage, Reiki)
during more stressful stages of formal guide dog training.

June 2007
Approximately Weeks 11 - 13

Continued development and consistent responses in various environments (formal,
Guidework Training
Advanced Harness Training in a variety of suburban, country and urban areas are
worked, including sidewalkless routes.
Sidewalkless technique introduction:
Maintaining a travel line on the extreme left of roadways (facing oncoming traffic)
with no sidewalk or reasonable shoulder to walk on. How to work around obstacles
on the roadway and immediately return to the left edge of the road.
Specialized training on the right edge of the roadway in preparation for work areas
clients live in with those challenges.
Platform edge exposure work:
Learning to avoid the drop off of subway and rail platforms
Light Rail, Subway systems:
Introduction and exposure
Overhead Obstacle Clearance training:
Continues as in earlier phases
Escalator Training - Boarding/Riding/Exiting:
How to safely step onto moving escalators and acquire a safe stance, ride the
escalator in that stance without moving until time to anticipate exiting safely with
energy.
NOTE: Puppy raisers should never put their pups on escalators.
Intensive Indoor Mall and store work techniques:

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Slower pace for indoor work, if appropriate

Crowded aisles
Elevators
Multiple Stairways (Up & Down)
Various colors and textures of slick, shiny floors
Patience work in shopping situations
Intensive food avoidance situations (food court)
Vet Meeting Review of Health

Each dogs health history to date is reviewed by the staff vet. Viability for care by
a visually impaired assessed. Health drop decisions made on some dogs, other
individuals given timelines for improvement or other medical procedures/testing.
Socialization
Leash relieving exposure on cement begins

June 2007

Maintenance of consistent responses in various environments (formal, informal and during
guidework) and with different handlers.
Advanced Guidework Training and Testing
Finishing Routes
Relaxing residential or country route work, sidewalkless areas, less difficult and
straight-forward work for confidence building before class.
Advanced Work Routes
New advanced work routes are introduced to the dogs that require advanced
decision-making. These route can consist of:
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City Traffic patterns

Difficult crossings
Difficult clearance situation
Line problems
Animal distractions
Surface issues
Curb approach challenges
Pedestrian islands
Crowded sidewalks
Different Pedestrian climate
Additional city bus exposure
Additional rapid transit ride exposure
Dogs at this level (almost Class Ready) are worked by unfamiliar or novice handlers (O&M
seminars, mock student instruction practice for apprentices, obedience exercises with new
students in class learning handling, demonstrations, etc.)
Notable Accomplishment - Final Traffic Testing
Instructor is under blindfold on a guidework route. Several traffic checks
requiring all types of traffic avoidance responses are given to the dog with
instructor unable to predict when they will happen.
Escalator Boarding/Riding/Exiting continues
June 2007
Dog is progressing to independence in boarding, riding and exiting.

Sidewalkless training
Continues as in earlier phases.
Specialized training
Customizing a dogs work for a particular clients needs (slower pace, client who
travels with a support cane, balance issues
Platform edge training continues
Avoidance of drop-off edges on pedestrian platforms of subway and rail systems.
Boarding and exiting trains.
Total Barricade Training continues
Informing handler of blocked path and working safely around objects and back on
the original travel path.
Advanced overhead obstacle clearance training
Continues.
Socialization
Leash relieving practice on cement surfaces continues. Dogs who are not
comfortable doing this will be placed on additional socialization programs.

June 2007
TRAINING PHASE 10 OF FORMAL GUIDE DOG

Approximately Weeks 15, 16 & 17

Maintenance training of consistent responses in various environments (formal,
Advanced Guidework Training and testing
Advanced Guide Work Routes
Finishing Routes
Notable Accomplishment Final Obedience Testing
With the instructor under blindfold, an extensive obedience test is given to each
dog. All dogs must pass final obedience in order to qualify to take the final
blindfold guidework test.
Final Building Testing
Instructor under Blindfold each dog is tested on escalators, elevators, stairs and
store work through food court areas.
Final Blindfold Testing
Blindfold test on urban street & sidewalk route of 40 to 50 minutes in
challenging work area. Obedience exercises required to be demonstrated on
the route. Dogs passing are deemed Class Ready Guides. Class ready Guide
Dogs are fully prepared for matching with students.
Vet Meeting Review of any Health Concerns

Pre Class Vet Physical is done and an accurate height on the dog is recorded (from the
ground to the top of the shoulders)
Final Class Preparations
New Collars - sizing and assignment.
New Harnesses prepared.
Leash Relieving practice on cement surfaces
Continue as in previous phase
June 2007
Dormitory exposure
All Specialized programs for socializing would be complete for dog to be Class Ready Guide
status.
Extra relaxing walks, kennel enrichment and play sessions with the dogs is a primary focus
for the Canine Welfare Technicians.

June 2007
CLASS
By the time the dogs are finishing their final exams in Phase Ten, the students that are
scheduled to arrive for the next class have been confirmed and the preliminary and
important process of matching dogs with students begins. Once the students have arrived
at the campus and class training has begun, the final decision regarding each student and
dog match is made. There will be more dogs available than there are students allowing the
best match of student and dog. If your dog is not chosen for this class, it only means that
the right student was not available for your dog. If your dog was not chosen, he will
continue training with the next string and be available for placement with a student in a
future class.
There are 3 different class-training programs available. The four-week class is for new
students and some students (retrain) with previous experience using a dog guide. We also
have two and three-week retrain classes available. The best training option (two, three or
four week retrain class) is recommended during the home interview based on the students
previous experience current physical condition and handling abilities. All the students begin
class so that their graduation is on the same day.
The home interview may recommend in a few situations a student receive in-home training
if they cannot attend a class at one of the campuses. If in-home training is approved, the
student and dog may not attend the formal graduation on campus. (See Graduation
portion of this packet for special arrangements afforded to Raisers whose dogs are
trained in-home).
Some of the lectures students receive during their training are:
ORIENTATION
Instructors give an orientation to the dormitory facilities.
INTRODUCTION TO THE GUIDE DOG
Instruction on how to meet and properly handle a Guide Dog.
COMMUNICATIONS WITH A GUIDE DOG
Instruction on appropriate commands for a Guide Dog.
HARNESS COMMANDS
Instruction and review of the obedience and guidework commands for a Guide Dog.
DESCRIPTIONS OF GUIDE DOG BREEDS
Description of the characteristic of each Guide Dog breed: Labrador Retriever, Golden
Retriever, German Shepherd Dog, and Labrador/Golden Retriever cross
CONTROL OF A GUIDE DOG
Instruction on effective control of a Guide Dog.

June 2007
EQUIPMENT FOR A GUIDE DOG

Discussion about the different types and appropriate use of Guide Dog equipment.
GROOMING
Discussion and instruction on grooming, skin care and dental care for maintaining good
health of a Guide Dog.
RECEIVING YOUR GUIDE DOG
Hands-on instruction and discussion prior to meeting your Guide Dog.
MAINTAINING A WELL BEHAVED GUIDE DOG
Review of daily schedule and use of obedience commands.
PROCEDURES FOR FEEDING YOUR GUIDE DOG
Instruction on feeding your Guide Dog (when, what, and how much).
STUDENT VISITING HOURS
Review of visiting hours for students during training at Guide Dogs.
FOLLOW YOUR DOG
Instruction of proper following position while walking with a Guide Dog.
STREET CROSSINGS
Discussion of crossing streets with a Guide Dog (listening for traffic, appropriate
stops, etc.).
MAINTAINING A HOUSE CLEAN DOG
Relieving instruction and information on how to maintain consistent house behavior.
FLEA CONTROL
Discussion of available products and instruction in their use.
ORIENTATION & LEARNING ROUTES
Review and discussion of the downtown street system and street names.
DISTRACTIONS
Instruction on control of a Guide Dog when distracted by other animals, people, or
environment.
REWORKING ERRORS
Instruction on how to improve Guide Dog work.
WORKING IN BUILDINGS
Instruction on locating and working different types of buildings with your Guide Dog
(such as stores, malls, supermarkets, etc.).
TOYS
Instructors discuss and issue recommended toys for Guide Dogs.
WHEN YOUR DOG IS HOME ALONE
Instruction and practice on having a quiet and well-behaved dog when left alone.
Discussion on appropriate times, and length of time, for dog to be left alone.

June 2007
TRAFFIC TRAINING & TOTAL BARRICADES

Instruction on working around obstacles totally blocking the sidewalk.
CARE OF YOUR GUIDE DOG
Instruction and review of water, feeding and relieving schedule for a Guide Dog.
NUTRITIONAL NEEDS OF YOUR DOG
Discussion of nutritional needs, type of dog foods, and recommended amount for
feeding each individual dog.
THE PUBLIC & YOUR GUIDE DOG
Discussion on laws, legislation and the public.
TRAVELING WITH YOUR GUIDE DOG
Discussion about the different methods of travel with a Guide Dog (city bus, light rail,
airplane, etc.).
A GUIDE DOG IS REALLY A DOG
Discussion on how Guide Dogs are raised and trained; how to best adapt youre Guide
Dog to your home.
WORKING YOUR GUIDE DOG IN YOUR HOME ENVIRONMENT
Instruction on how to transition to your home area with your Guide Dog.
GRADUATION
Information about meeting your puppy raiser, the graduation ceremony, and departure
for home after graduation.
Students begin training with their dogs in residential areas San Rafael or Gresham and in
the last part of training to San Francisco or Portland. There are many different situations
presented to the teams including public transportation (cars, city buses, subway systems,
and ferries), heavy traffic, construction, escalators, areas with no sidewalks, etc.
Our students come from many different walks of life and areas. Towards the end of class,
students are given more exposure to areas similar to where they will be working most of
the time at home. Students are given tips on how to keep their dogs comfortable in all
types of climate changes.
This is a busy and exciting time for the Training staff. They have spent many months
nurturing and preparing the dogs for class. The staff puts it this way:
When we finally get to class Im ready. You are so proud of the dogs its a process
where you really want to see them fly. There is a part of me saying show those students
what you can do!
Going into class and making that match (of dog and student) is what its all aboutseeing
people become more and more independentwalking with smiles on their faces.
June 2007
The end of the training string signals the culmination of months of hard work by many
people at Guide Dogs, both staff and volunteers. From the volunteers that socialize the
young puppies and work in other areas on campus, to the immense efforts of you in the
puppy raising community, to the dedicated staff, and to our donors we couldnt do it
without all of you! It is the efforts of all these people that make the ten phases of
training possible, and provide us with the foundation to shape a wonderful dog into a highly
trained guide dog and companion, and then pair that dog with a partner to become an
effective team. This is the mission of Guide Dogs for the Blind.

June 2007
GRADUATION
Graduation is the culmination of many years of hard work from many people. Raisers are
invited to attend graduation and present the dogs they have raised to their new partners.
If you are planning to fly to attend a Guide Dog graduation ceremony, we recommended
purchasing refundable airfare, in case something happens to cause your dog to be career
changed, passed back or taken out of class at the last moment.
On graduation day, you will have an opportunity to meet the graduate and have your
pictures taken together. The pictures will be sent to you after graduation. The
graduates will then be seated on the stage. When your name is called, you will go on stage
to present the dog to the graduate at the microphone. You will then be given an
opportunity to share a few words about your experiences. After the ceremony you will
escort the new team to a reception in the dormitory. You will be sent a DVD of the
graduation as a keepsake.
Your dog could also be selected as a sponsored team. Donors who have contributed a
significant amount towards the cost of training a person and their dog are invited to come
to graduation and meet the team they have sponsored. Many times donor teams are
chosen based on the area in which the graduate lives or their background, such as being a
veteran or in a certain career field. When photos are taken, the donor (if present) will
also have their photo taken with the graduate and dog. If your dog and his new partner
are a sponsored team, and the donor is present you may be asked to meet the donor at a
reception. The Puppy Raising Department will notify you a few days in advance if the
graduating team has been sponsored.
Those raisers whose dogs have been matched with students receiving in-home training are
welcome to attend graduation, and their name, their dogs name and the students name will
be mentioned during the program even though their dogs will not be presented in person.
Individuals who receive their guide dogs through in-home training are often not able to
attend the formal graduation with their new guides. The whole purpose of this type of
special training is to help a person with a visual impairment who cannot, for health or other
personal reasons, attend one of the campus-based training classes. Because of this, Guide
Dogs can sometimes arrange for the raiser to visit their dog on campus before it leaves
for training. The Instructor will take photos of the working team for the raisers
keepsake. You may attend graduation and can make a statement at the microphone when
introduced. With the graduates consent, a statement composed by the graduate may be
read by Guide Dogs staff. Also with the graduates consent, a phone call can be arranged
between the raiser and the graduate.
If your dog is chosen for breeding stock, it will also be involved in a graduation at one of
our San Rafael graduation ceremonies. Just like presenting a guide, you will have the
June 2007
opportunity to present the breeder and make a statement at the microphone when
introduced.
Tips to help make graduation more relaxed and enjoyable to all:
Realize that the student is probably nervous and wants to make a good impression on
you.
Its natural for some raisers to be nervous too; we want you to relax and enjoy
yourself.
Please let your first words be a greeting to the student (not the dog). Initiating a
handshake is great! (Gently touch the back of the students right hand as a greeting if
they do not have their arm extended.)
The student may offer you the leash so that you can visit with their dog for a few
minutes. Keep in mind that this is a courtesy to you. Please be respectful of the
students important relationship with their dog and hand the leash back to them in a
few minutes.
Take a few minutes to greet the dog youve raised; its best to stay gentle and calm.
Despite your own excitement, try to not increase the dogs excitement.
Please remember that the dog is working on this day. Expect and encourage him to
behave as he would in a working situation involving a crowd.
Indicate an open seat to the student. Ask the student about their class experience.
Feel free to share positive and/or humorous stories about the dogs puppyhood. Keep in
mind that the student has only begun to develop their trust and confidence in their new
guide. While sharing normal puppy "challenges" with the student is fine, try not to
focus on any negative subjects about raising their dog.
Inquire about the students lifestyle, plans or hobbies/career. Keep in mind, the
student may or may not want to share this.
Please do not offer the student any training advice, even if asked.
The student will put the harness on the dog when it is time to take photos. The student
may also attach alternative control equipment onto their dog, such as a specialized
collar or headcollar.
The students complete address is sent to you in the letter informing you of the
graduation. Many times phone numbers are exchanged but remember that the graduate
and you are under no obligation to give each other personal information or communicate
in the future. Please respect any privacy wishes that the other may express.
This is truly a day to celebrate! All of the hard work that you have put into your dog has
paid off. This new team still has a lot of work to do. When they return home, they will
truly begin developing a working relationship based on trust and love. The graduate will
receive a yearly veterinary stipend and follow-up visits by licensed Instructors to ensure
that the transition goes smoothly. The graduate will look back on this day as the beginning
of a new and exciting chapter in their life. And you are a very large part of what has made
Guide Dogs mission a reality for another visually impaired person!
June 2007
CAREER CHANGE DOGS

Career change dogs are those who are released from Guide Dogs for the Blind programs,
usually to become pets/companions. Some career change dogs go on to other careers such
as obedience work, search and rescue, agility, hearing dog or service dog training, tracking,
and pet therapy. The dogs that do not graduate as guides or breeders are released from
the Guide Dog program for a variety of reasons; usually medical, temperamental, or
behavioral.
Guide Dogs is very fortunate to have a large community of raisers and leaders who work
very hard to deliver back to us the best possible guide candidates. All raisers should be
proud of their efforts and accomplishments regardless if the dog graduates, becomes a
breeder, or is career changed. We are immensely proud of the love and dedication that all
our volunteers - puppy socializers and testers in our kennels, raisers, leaders, and others contribute so generously and effectively to help us develop the best puppies possible.
The level of skill, soundness, and health that is necessary for a dog to be considered for
guidework is extremely high. A dog must be orthopedically sound, capable of walking for
long distances, free from nagging allergies, and in good physical health. An effective guide
must exhibit a paradox of behaviors that can be extremely difficult to balance. The dog
must be sensitive yet brave, obedient yet independent, loving of the handler yet aloof from
strangers when necessary. One small concern may prevent a dog from being issued,
resulting in career change.
Our canine population must be large enough to allow us to carefully screen and select the
very best guide and breeder candidates. This is essential in order for us to provide the
quality of guide that is needed in today's busy world.
All of our dogs, including our career change dogs go on to enrich the lives of people with
whom they come into contact. They are wonderful ambassadors for our program, making
friends throughout the world for themselves and for Guide Dogs for the Blind. All become
wonderful, loving pets either with the family that raised them, a close friend or relative of
the raiser, or with an adoptive family who has been screened and carefully selected by the
Dog Placement Department at Guide Dogs. The hard work and love that raisers give to our
puppies is the largest contributing factor in making career change dogs such great pets,
and for this our raisers deserve our heartfelt thanks.
Who can receive a career change dog?
If a dog is career changed from the puppy home or training program
The last raiser to raise the dog has the first option to receive the dog as a pet.
If the last raiser does not wish to keep the dog personally, the previous raiser has the
next choice to receive the dog personally.
June 2007
If the dog has had more than two raisers and neither of the previous two wish to keep
the dog personally, other previous raisers are offered the dog in the reverse order
that they raised. An example of a dog thats had four raisers: 4th raiser = 1st choice,
3rd raiser = 2nd choice, 2nd raiser = 3rd choice, 1st raiser = 4th choice.
If no raisers of a dog wish to keep the dog personally, raisers have the option of
placing a career change dog only with a close family member or a close friend and in the
order described above.
The above guidelines for placement options have exceptions at the discretion of Guide
Dogs. Exceptions may be based on consideration of:
a. the dog's temperament
b. the dog's health
c. the dog's compatibility with people and pets in the Raiser or adopter home
d. the dog's possible effect on a Guide Dog puppy in the home
e. instances of abuse or neglect in the home
f. incidents of dogs running loose at the home
g. questions regarding the raiser's ability to effectively care and control the dog
h. inadequate fencing or other housing needs
i. previous agreements between transfer homes, leaders, and advisors
j. other determinations by Guide Dogs in consideration for the well-being of the dog
and/or the household
If a dog is retired from the graduate's home in less than a year

The last person to raise the dog has the first option to receive the dog as a pet.
If the last raiser declines to accept the dog personally, the graduate has the option to
keep the dog or place the dog only with a close family member or a close friend.
If both the graduate and the last Raiser decline these options, the dog will be placed
by Guide Dogs using the same guidelines as when a dog is career changed in the puppy
home or training program.
If a dog is retired from the graduate's home after a year or more
The graduate has the option to keep the dog or place the dog as he or she chooses.
If the graduate declines this option, the dog will be placed by Guide Dogs using the
same guidelines as when a dog is career changed in the puppy home or training program.
If a suitable home (one that meets the order of placement described above) cannot
be found, Guide Dogs Puppy Raising and Dog Placement Department will individually
screen and select a home for the dog
Guide Dogs receives hundreds of inquiries each year from people interested in
receiving a career change dog.
Potential homes are screened to determine their suitability to adopt a career change
dog, including a home visit/fence check.
Potential adopters must come to Guide Dogs to meet the available dogs.
Individual dogs are matched to individual homes.
June 2007
Dog Placement staff personally interview and introduce dogs to their potential
adopters.
GDB charges an adoption fee of $500.
GDB provides follow-up information: books, videos, audio tapes, booklets, training
references.
GDB welcomes back any dog that is not compatible with the new home.
How Guide Dogs places the puppies you raise

It is difficult when you can't provide a home for a career changed dog when you have
invested so much time, effort, and love raising it. We want you to know about our Dog
Placement process and the time, effort, and love that go into each placement.
The process starts when someone notifies us of their desire to receive a dog from our
program by submitting a Career Change Application. After careful review, only those who
qualify are kept on file. Acceptable applications are entered into our computer database.
When a dog is career changed and the raiser is unable to take the dog back or has no close
family member or close friend that can offer a quality home, the dogs placement becomes
the responsibility of the Dog Placement Department. We learn everything we can about
the dog: the reason the dog was released from the program, the dogs history in the puppy
raising home (another reason completed project records are so helpful!), the training and
socialization history and health history. We review the evaluations done in the field by the
puppy raising advisors and, if the dog made it all the way back to the training program, we
talk with the instructors and instructor assistants who may have trained and cared for the
dog. From all the information we have gathered, we put together a basic profile of the
kind of home we are looking for - a family with kids, a retired couple, a home without other
dogs or cats, a family who has owned this type of dog before, etc.
By searching the available applications in the database, we develop a list of potential
matches. Then, considering the dog's strengths and weaknesses, we spend hours reviewing
the applications and talking on the phone with several potential adopters to find a home
that seems best suited for the particular dog we are trying to place. Only when we feel we
have a possible match do we indicate that we have a dog available. We then describe the
dog in detail, always giving both the positives and negatives. It is very important to us to
be straightforward about the dog. Our success in locating a permanent home is more likely
if there are not a great deal of surprises when adopters take their new dog home.
A fence check must be completed before the dog goes to its new home. This check
provides an opportunity for us to observe the home environment. Fence checks may be
done by GDB staff, leaders or volunteers.

June 2007
Once the fence check is completed, the family is required to meet the dog on campus. We
encourage the whole family to come, especially if there are young children in the
household. During this meeting we spend a lot of time discussing dog behavior, teaching
the family various training techniques (e.g. how to use a proper collar and leash correction
along with praise and the basic obedience commands). It typically takes between one and
two hours to educate the family and show the dog.
Not every meeting results in the dog going to that home. Occasionally, in spite of the
hours that were spent interviewing the family by phone, the match is inappropriate.
Sometimes we deny the placement, and sometimes the family decides that the dog is not
right for them. If the campus meeting is not successful, the process begins again to
search for a new, more appropriate home.
It takes time to find the right match. It is never a case of just assigning a dog to the
next applicant on the list. As dogs wait for new homes, most adjust well to kennel-life,
continuing to mature and learning from the instructor assistants who constantly work with
them grooming, exercising, and training.
Our primary goal is placing the dog with a family that will provide it with a lifetime of love,
care, and companionship. Since our breeds are known to enjoy active involvement with
their owners, we also encourage applications from those who are looking for dogs to enter
into agility, obedience, tracking, search and rescue, pet facilitated therapy, and other
disciplines and hobbies.
Thank you for the time, love, and care that you have put into raising a puppy for Guide
Dogs for the Blind. Even though all dogs cannot become guides or breeders, we recognize
that each dog is truly a unique and valued individual. We will continue to work hard to find
loving and responsible homes for each. We know that you would want nothing less for your
puppy!
Taking back your career change dog
Let's suppose that you have just found out that the puppy you so carefully raised has been
career changed. Now what?
Raisers have a great deal of attachment to the puppies that they loved, cared for, and
trained, often watching them grow from cute, cuddly puppies into mature dogs. As a result
of these heartfelt emotions, a raiser may feel obligated to take a career change dog back.
We at Guide Dogs understand a raiser's feelings of love and responsibility to the puppy
that they raised because we feel the same spirit of protectiveness. However, we place no
responsibility on raisers to keep a dog that they have raised. Unless a raiser is sure that
they can provide a lifetime quality home for a dog, we would prefer to place the dog
through our Puppy Raising and Dog Placement Department.
June 2007
Before deciding to take a career change dog back, please ask yourself the following
questions
Are you considering taking the dog back only because you feel an obligation to the dog
or GDB?
Have you considered that the dog may be a different dog in size and behaviors than
the one that you returned for training several months ago?
Can you give the dog the best possible home for the rest of the dogs life?
Do you have time to spend exercising and playing with the dog?
If you are a youth raiser, do your parents want the dog as much as you do?
If you are a youth raiser, will you be going to college or moving into your own home
while the dog may be still living? What are your plans for the dog then?
Will the dog get along well with all family members: adults, small children and pets?
Do you have other dogs - a GDB puppy, other career change dogs, or pets and will you
be able to provide each with sufficient individual love and care?
Can you afford the food and veterinary care of a large-breed dog?
Do you currently have a secure, fenced area (yard or dog run) at least 5 feet in height?
If your home has a pool, is it safely fenced?
Will the dog have adequate shelter from both the rain and sun?
Will the dog be inside the house (at least at night)?
If renting, do you have the landlords permission to have a dog?
If any of the preceding questions cause doubts, perhaps you would be better off letting a
previous raiser accept the dog or letting GDB place the dog.
If you decide to accept the career change dog back as a pet
Guide Dogs will legally transfer the dog to you.
You must complete an "Agreement Confirming Gift of Dog" contract which transfers
the dog from GDB to you.
Any transportation costs to return the dog to you are at your expense.
expenses are your responsibility.
If the dog doesnt work out, please do not hesitate to notify and then return the dog to
GDB.
If at any time in the dog's life you transfer the dog to a new home, please complete
and return to Guide Dogs a "Supplemental Dog Transfer Form."
If concerns about a dog's behavior or health arise, please contact the GDB Dog
Placement Department's dog evaluation specialist.
Placing your career change dog
June 2007
If you decide that you cannot personally keep the dog, you also have the option to place
the dog (using the same order of preference as described in "Who Can Receive a Career
Change Dog?") If you choose to place the dog yourself, you may only place the dog with a
close friend or close family member. Guide Dogs has found that the placements of dogs by
raisers with people whom they do not know extremely well are often not successful. If a
raiser cannot keep a career change dog as their own or place the dog with a very trusted
person, Guide Dogs will happily place the dog.
Guide Dogs takes great care, reinforced by years of experience, in the placing of career
change dogs. Guide Dogs has two Dog Placement offices, one in California and one in
Oregon, that are staffed by professionally trained people whose sole jobs are to screen,
select, and educate prospective homes. We offer not only these preliminary services but
also follow-up services to ensure that the dog is happy in the new home.
If you decide to place a career change dog with a close friend or family member,
first, carefully ask yourself some questions about the dog
Does the dog have temperament, control, or behavior concerns that make him a
challenging candidate for placement?
In offering this dog to a new home, can you be honest with the prospective adopters
about all his behaviors, good and bad?
If the dog has problems in the adopters home, can you offer the resources to help
work through the problem?
If this dog does not work out in his new home, are you willing to take him back or
return him to Guide Dogs?
Would this dog be better placed by Guide Dogs experienced Dog Placement staff?
In deciding whether your close relative or close friend is a good candidate for a dog,
ask yourself some general questions about the prospective home
Have you honestly and completely explained in detail all the dog's potential negative
behaviors and/or health problems to the prospective adopter?
Is the potential adopter making a decision on impulse or as a surprise gift for someone
else? This is not a good way to make such an important decision.
Will the dog get along well with all family members: adults, small children, and
pets/livestock?
Is any one in the home allergic to dogs?
What is the prospective adopter's motivation in wanting this dog as a pet?
Are they interested in this dog because they really know and like him?
Have they spent any substantial amount of time with the dog?
Do they only want the dog because he is a "good deal?"
Do they only want the dog as a favor to you?
Do they only want the dog because he has come from Guide Dogs for the Blind?
June 2007
Do they understand that all dogs have dog behaviors, good and bad, even ones from
Guide Dogs?
Do they understand all the responsibility involved in providing a lifetime, loving home
for a dog?
Are all their current pets well cared for, including grooming, housing, and vaccinations?
Have they had dogs in the past? What became of these dogs?
These general dynamics can often best predict a dog's happiness in a new home. Refer to
the article "Common Career Change Misconceptions" for additional information. If you
have any concerns about the success of the proposed placement, please let Guide Dogs
select a home instead.
If you are confident from the answers to the above questions that a prospective
family may be a good candidate to receive the dog that you raised, ask the following
Can the prospective family afford the food and veterinary care of a large-breed dog?
Do they have time to spend exercising and playing with the dog?
Do they have a secure, fenced area (yard or dog run) at least 5 feet in height?
If the potential home has a pool, is it safely fenced?
Will the dog be inside (at least at night)?
Is adequate shelter provided from both rain and sun?
If renting, do they have the landlords permission to have a dog?
Are they able and willing to obtain and use a crate?
Will they take a dog through obedience classes or private training to better
understand and control the dog?
Are they familiar with the grooming needs of this breed?
Are they willing to provide flea control?
Are they planning to move in the near future?
If
you are satisfied that the dog you are placing fits well with the applicant
Introduce the dog to the adopters at their home.
Make sure that no family members are intimidated by the dog,
Make sure that all family members are gentle and kind, yet consistent.
Make sure that there are no possible conflicts with other pets, inside and outside the
home.
Double check the yard for safety and security.
If you decide to place the dog in this new home

Any transportation costs to transport the dog to the new home are yours or the
adopters.
June 2007
expenses are the responsibility of the adopters.
If questions arise in the new home that you cannot answer, please ask the adopters to
contact the GDB Dog Placement Department's dog evaluation specialist who will consult
with them.
Ask the adopters that if it doesnt work out to please contact you or GDB directly to
return the dog to us.
If you dont feel right about a potential new owner, tell them "no.
If you have any uncertainties, please let us place the dog. The Dog Placement
Department is available to place the dog from either campus in the event that you
dont feel comfortable with your options. Since the quality of the dogs life depends
on this placement, take your time and dont take chances!
Thank you for all the love and effort that you spent raising a puppy for Guide Dogs
for the Blind. Thank you also for helping us find a permanent, happy home for each
dog from our program.
Please help us fulfill our responsibilities by letting Guide Dogs for the Blind Dog
Placement staff find homes for any dog in need of a home.
Guide Dogs for the Blind will gladly accept back any dog that is returned
to us at any stage of the dogs life.
We feel a great debt to all our dogs - guides, breeders, and career change - that
have contributed to our mission. We have a lifelong responsibility to them all.
Please help us fulfill our responsibility by returning to us any dog that is from
our program and that is in need of a home.

June 2007

Puppy Raising Manual

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Puppy Raising Manual

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Puppy Raising Manual

Produced by the Puppy Raising Department of Guide Dogs

2008 Guide Dogs for the Blind

2. Preparing for puppy raising

3. Caring for your puppy

4-1 Working with veterinarians

6-1 Important behaviors

7. What's next for your puppy

7-1 Saying goodbye

8. Policies, forms and resources

Puppy raising policy

1-1 OUR MISSION

The Guide Dog family

Puppy raising leaders

The Puppy Raising Department

Other Guide Dog staff

What is expected of you

Employees, volunteers and students are expected to observe certain standards of

1-3 OUR DOGS

Selection of breeding stock

The breeding program

Life in the kennels

How puppies are chosen for placement with raisers:

1-4 RAISER SUPPORT AND OPPORTUNITIES

Instructor Assistants - Instructor assistants work to promote good canine

Program Participation Requirements

Introducing your team

The basic responsibilities of a leader include:

Possible steps to remedy an ongoing puppy problem:

Puppy evaluations to assess problems and progress

Foster raiser homes

Permanent home transfer

Puppies dropped from the program

2-2 CREATING A SAFE, SECURE ENVIRONMENT

Suggested first aid kit supplies

NEVER use these items without a veterinarian's instruction and approval:

Common substances that can be poisonous to dogs if ingested:

2-3 OUTDOOR CONFINEMENT AND HOUSING

Yard fences should be a minimum of five feet in height.

General recommendations for confinement and housing:

Do not leave your puppy tied and unattended.

2-4 EQUIPMENT (and how to use it)

Baby wipes to clean the outside of ears (alcohol-free, non-scented)

Meal preparation time

Guidelines for tie-downs

Select a safe, visible spot to attach the tie-down

Calmly introduce your puppy to the tie-down

Be patient as your puppy is learning to accept the tie-down

Use of the dragline

The leash and collar

Introducing your puppy to the leash

If he resists following you:

Step in another direction.

Leash and collar corrections

When he attempts to pull, use the following correction:

Slide your hand(s) down the leash closer to the collar.

INCORRECT collar and leash techniques are:

A TIGHT LEASH - this leads to constant pressure or pulling

Other training equipment

No, my puppy is not wearing a muzzle.

Introducing the headcollar

When should a puppy wear its headcollar?

The puppy should never be left unattended in a headcollar or safety collar!

The chain training collar