Step By Step

Welcome Coilers! Be sure to submit your photo for the

Click Me! Tip Of The Day

Tesla Coil Web

Home
Feedback

Largest spark to date: 68 inches! with my 4.5 inch coil running at 2.4kW
Step by step instructions on how to build a simple, medium-sized Tesla
Coil using a Neon Sign Transformer as a primary power source.

Contents
Search
Tesla Talk
Tesla Chat
Step By Step
Info Request

I recommend bookmarking and printing this article so you can have it with you at the workbench
or if you habe Adobe Acrobat Reader, you can download the PDF
These step by step instructions do not guarantee results, they are merely guidelines to assist you
in the construction of your coil. Results strongly depend on materials, workmanship, tuning,
common sense, and most of all, patients. Your coil will most likely not perform the first few tries,
it needs to be tweaked, tuned, and maybe some modifications here and there in order to work.
Once you get it working. You will gain experience and start to get the feel for best tuning. That,
my friend, is the joy of Tesla Coiling. Don't rush to gain maximum output too quickly, you will
soon loose interest and want more and more, it's just human nature. So, If you have a lot of time on
your hands, and like awesome power, this is the hobby for you. Good luck, and remember, safety
first!

First, before we start, please understand that there are certain prerequisites
needed before starting a High Voltage project.
Pole Pig

Prerequisites:

You, and all individuals involved in this project must have basic
understanding of safety, high voltage handling, electronic principals, and
formulas. i.e. Ohms Law. Please Read the following pages and become
familiar with them first before you attempt building a TC!
Legal Disclosure
Tesla Safety
Electronic Formulas
Other Prerequisites:
Persons involved should have a basic knowledge of Electronics, Capacitance, resistance,
inductance, reactance, frequency, harmonics, frequency resonation, Dielectric, AC/DC, High
voltage, tank circuits, electron flow, Ohms Law, RF and elec. formulas

Page 1

Step By Step

TC Parts List:
1. Two pieces of 2'X2' plywood.(or similar)
2. 30" X 4.5" PVC Pipe
3. 50' of 1/4" copper refrigeration tubing
4. Three 4" "L" Brackets(or similar)
5. Two pieces of 1" X 2" X 8' wood (or similar)
6. 2 pounds of #23 or 24 magnet wire
7. Two 8" aluminum pie plates
8. One piece of 4" X 4' round rigid flexible aluminum air duct (or
similar)(will stretch to desired length)
9. One 1/4" stove bolt w/two wide washers(or similar)
10.. A few feet of neon HV Cable (get from neon shop)
11.. An assortment of electrical connectors... Spades, butt-connectors,
solder.
12.. 32 2" drywall screws
13.. An assortment of other bolts, nuts, and screws.
14.. Two 4" carriage bolts with eight nuts that fit them (you will see why
later)
15.. Box of 100 1/4 cable TV coax staples (plastic staples w/nail)
16.. Elmer's Glue-All
17.. Thin electronic component solder
18.. Hot Glue Sticks
19.. Very fine grit sandpaper
20.. Polyethylene Varnish
21.. 4' long piece of 1/2" copper water pipe
Tool List:
1. Phillips, and flat screwdrivers (or electric)
2. Circular saw (or hand saw)
3. Square
4. Tape measure
5. Pencil
6. VOM (Volt/Ohm meter)
7. Small Hammer
8. Soldering iron
9. Pliers
10.. Wrench or socket to fit all nuts
11.. compass (circle maker)
12.. Jig or coping saw
13.. Lathe, Jig-n-Crank, or home made rotisserie (makes secondary winding
a breeze, Instructions on how to build this is mentioned later.) If you
have a lathe, then there is no need to build the rotisserie.
14.
Page 2

Step By Step

14.. Drill w/assortment of bits

15.. Hot Glue Gun
16.. Spark Plug Gapper
17.. Copper pipe cutter
18.. Router (Optional)

The Frame
The frame, or Base, is going to hold it all together. This is where your Primary
and secondary will sit on, and where your cap(s) Spark Gaps, Safety Gap,
Chokes, etc. So, Let's build that first...
Step 1.
Take your two pieces of 2'X2' plywood.(or similar) and stack them atop of
each other squaring them off. Find center by drawing two lines from one
corner to the other, and then the other corner to corner making an "X".
Step 2.
Where the two crosshairs meet ("X") Drill a hole the same size as one of your
4" carriage bolts straight down in the center through both pieces of plywood
and insert the bolt all the way in through both pieces of plywood.
Step 3.
Now that the bolt is through both pieces of plywood, turn the top piece of
plywood exactly 45 degrees to make an eight point star. Measure the
hypotenuse of all the triangle star points till you get them all to be closest to
the same size. Screw in two drywall screws anywhere into both of the two
pieces of plywood to keep them from moving. Screw in one screw 6" to the
left of center, and the other 6" to the right of center. Measure the hypotenuses
once more to make sure they have not moved. If they have, repeat this step.
Step 4.
Now that your drywall screws are in, and all your hypnoses of the bottom piece
of plywood are the same, you can now remove your center bolt. Now, draw a
line along the hypotenuse of all triangles of the bottom piece of plywood using
the top piece as a guide. Flip the two pieces of plywood and do the same on
the other side (other piece of plywood). Remove drywall screws and save them
for later use.
Step 5.
Page 3

Step By Step

After removing the drywall screws, set aside one of the pieces of plywood.
Using your circular saw, or hand saw, cut all the lines staying as straight as
possible (DO NOT destroy or dispose of the triangles, they will be used as
your 90 degree plane for your primary coil) Take the other piece of plywood
and do the same. Now, you should have two octagons and eight triangles. set
aside your triangles and one octagon.
Step 6.
Take one of your octagons and with your compass draw an 8 inch circle using
the drilled hole as a guide. Measure your circle and make sure it is 8 inches.
Step 7.
Take the octagon you just made the 8 inch circle on, and place it on to your
work space and retrieve your eight triangles. Take one of your triangles, and
place it standing up onto your octagon with the hypotenuse facing up and
towards the center and bring the point to the edge of the 8 inch circle edge.
Your triangle should be in line between the 8 inch circle and the outer point of
our octagon. With your triangle in place hold it and draw marker lines all
around the triangle on the octagon so you'll know where to drill the pilot holes
for the screws and where the triangle will go. Repeat this step for the
remaining seven triangles.
Step 8.
Now that you have your octagon all marked up on all eight sides, drill pilot
holes for your drywall screws. Drill two pilot holes for each triangle all the
way threw the octagon. With all your holes drilled stand your octagon up on
its side and place one of the triangles back in it's place and hold it. Drill into
the triangles from the bottom of the octagon threw the holes your drilled
previously and drill into the bottom of the triangles approximately one and one
half inch. Repeat this for the remaining seven triangles.
Step 9.
Now that all your pilot holes are drilled, attach the eight triangles to your
octagon using some glue and your drywall screws. When you are finished you
should have a primary form in the shape of a cone with all the triangles
slopping down to the 8 inch circle edge.
Step 10.
Get your two pieces of 1" X 2" X 8' wood (or similar) and cut them into eight
pieces 24" long (2 feet each). These 2 foot pieces of wood will be used as your
Page 4

Step By Step

legs (studs) between the two octagons. (see Structural Photos for a pictorial
view of the end product) Once you have completed the base, we will be ready
to start the next step.

The Primary Coil

The primary coil will be made from your 50' of 1/4" copper refrigeration
tubing, and will sit on top of the triangles, in the wooden form you just made.
Step 11.
Remove the 50' of 1/4" copper refrigeration tubing from it's box and lay it
down on your workspace. You will have to re-coil the tubing since it is not in
the right shape. Go get something that is 8 inches in diameter and it rigid, like
a pot, or a pan. Take one end of the copper tubing and start coiling it tightly
around the pot until you have achieved a perfect 8 inch circle. Remove the pan
and proceed to coil around the 8 inch circle you just made, letting out a little
tubing out at a time from the original coil. Tightly wind around and around in a
flat fashion keeping it flat on the workspace and as tightly as you can. Use
your finger and slide it around to smoothly wrap the copper tubing upon it's
self until you have achieved a flat spiral.
Step 12.
Go get the Box of 100 1/4 cable TV coax staples (plastic staples w/nail) and
your hammer, and get them ready. Also get your Wooden form ready. Gently
pick up your copper coil and place it into your wooden form, to form a basket.
The copper coil should fit nicely onto the triangles and form your 45 degree
primary. Locate your center 8 inch coil and place it evenly in the center of all
the triangles, this is important because the rest of the coils of the copper coil
will follow.
Step 13.
Once you have evenly laid out the center of your primary coil, take one of the
coax staples and hammer it in at the end of the copper tubing, into the triangle
with the nail side facing out! the staples will act as 1/4 inch spacers as well as
the fasteners for the primary coil. Then take another staple and fasten the other
side of the 8 inch center wind to the triangle at the opposite side, and continue
to fasten the centermost coil to the triangles in a star pattern(like changing a
car tire) measuring each time to make sure the coil stays perfectly round and at
8 inches. Once you have secured the center primary winding, proceed to fasten
the other windings using the staples at every triangle with the nail facing
towards you so they serve as spacers. continue fastening the coils around and
Page 5

Step By Step

around until you cant go any longer. If you run out of space to fasten the
copper tubing, you will have to compensate by adding additional support. DO
NOT cut off any copper, the more winds you have, the better at this point.
You should have approx. 12 to 13 primary winds when you are finished.

The Secondary Coil

The Secondary coil will be made from your spool of magnet wire, 24" X 4.5"
PVC pipe
Step 14.
Get your 30" X 4.5" PVC Pipe, complete step 14a, and put it on your lathe.(
DO NOT drill into your PVC pipe for any reason.) If you do not have a lathe,
proceed to Step 14a and 14b. If you do have a lathe, proceed to step 15.
Step 14a.
Instructions on how to construct a winding jig
Parts List
1. Two pieces of 4.5 inch diameter round plywood
2. Hot glue sticks
3. Two 4" X 1/4" inch carriage bolt w/eight nuts and eight washers used
previously
4. 12" piece of 1/2 inch dowel
Tool List
1. 3/8 Drill
2. two jack stands or wooden stands (If you don't have, you must make
them, see Step 14a)
3. Hot Glue Gun
4. Leather gloves
Cut out your two pieces of 4.5" round wood ends (you can shave them down
smaller to fit inside the PVC form if you wish), find the center of both, drill a
hole and insert your carriage bolts and washers and tighten with a nut. With
the long end of the bolt facing out, hot glue the two wooden end caps to the
ends of the PVC pipe and set aside.
Step 14b.

Page 6

Step By Step

Get your two jack stands and place them on the table, remove the adjustable
poles from them and insert your secondary form bolts into each to form a
rotisserie. You may incorporate a drill, motor/pulley, or crank to drive it. Use
your imagination and ingenuity. proceed to step 15.
Step 15.
After mounting your PVC pipe, Rotate your form slowly and take your
sandpaper and smooth out all imperfections and wipe clean. Apply two or
three coats of PE varnish or substitute inside and out. let dry. Check for
imperfections and make sure it is smooth, if not, sand to smoothness and clean
with a non solvant.
Step 16.
Mount your spool of magnet wire in front of your lathe/rotisserie with your
dowel and wooden stands of some type, use your imagination. Rig some kind
of continuous friction brake on the magnet wire spool to control the output so
it does not get tangled or kinked from spinning out of control during winding.
When you stop the winding to take a break, you want the magnet wire to stop
also, otherwise you are asking for a rats nest, and you will most likely have to
get another spool of wire. As if this project wasn't costing you enough already,
he he. On the other hand if the brake is too restrictive, you might stretch or
break the wire, use good judgment.
Step 17.
Once you have mounted everything, take the end of the magnet wire and hot
glue it to the end of your PVC pipe leaving some lead at the end. coil the lead
around your finger and tuck it away. You should be starting your wind from
the left top of the pipe and rotating away from you (reverse from normal lathe
direction, or you will have to do it from behind the lathe if the lathe only goes
one direction. If you are using the rotisserie, just rotate it counterclockwise and
away from you) Turn the pipe slowly one revolution bringing the magnet wire
to the right 1 inch and stop, at this point put another bead of hot glue. After
the hot glue dries, begin winding your magnet wire in a close and tight fashion
at no more then 30 to 60 RPM or you will be sorry. Examine the winds every
few inches to make sure it is tight and close, and not overlapping, kinking or
bending. Continue to tightly wind the wire to the PVC form 20 to 25 inches
up the pipe. When you reach this point, do the reverse of what you did when
you started, bead the hot glue, then one rev, one inch and hot glue again. let
glue dry.
Step 18.
Examine your winding for imperfections, kinks, bends, or discoloration due to
Page 7

Step By Step

stress. If you have any of these, well, if you want it perfect, you know the
answer to that, repeat steps 14 to 18! he he.
Rotate your secondary slowly and wipe gently or air blow it clean. Apply two
or three more coats of PE varnish or substitute inside and out. let dry. Check
for imperfections and make sure it is smooth, if not, lightly sand to smoothness
being careful not to sand into your windings. After that, remove the completed
secondary from your lathe/rotissarie. Keep the wooden endcaps and carrige
bolts on, they are now perminant, and will be used to attach the wire to, and to
attach the sec to the base, and the toroid, and toroid neck to the secondary.
you may overcoat the secondary with, or dip in epoxy resin for a nice glass-like
finish. loosen the nuts on both sides of the form a little and attach the lead
wires to them. Make sure you strip off the insulation first before doing so.
Step 19.
Once your Secondary is complete, you can do one of two things to mount it to
your base. You can remove one of the nuts from the chosen end to be attched
to the base and put in into the hole of the base and then put the nut back on,
OR you can use a router to counter-sink a larger hole in the base so that there
is clearence for the nut that is already on the sec end cap and use another nut
to attach it to the base (If you do the former, be EXTREMELY carefull not to
loose the bolt in the secondary form or you will have to remove the endcap
possibly causing damage to the endcap, secondary form, or both!).

The Cylander Multi-Gap Static Spark Gap

Parts List:
1. A five inch length of 6" PVC drain pipe
2. 15" length of 1-1/2 inch hard copper water pipe
3. One end cap for the 6" PVC drain pipe
4. One 5-1/4 inch, high CFM, muffin fan
5. 14 1/4" Brass machine screws with nuts and washers
6. 4 #6 Brass machine screws with nuts
7. 3 feet of good quality lamp cord
8. 18" of thick wall vinyl tubing
9. Stiff epoxy
Step 20.
Cut the copper water pipe into seven two inch sections and polish
Page 8

Step By Step

the pieces. Drill two holes in a line 1" apart and 1/2" from the
top and bottom of each section.
Step 21.
Drill two corresponding holes, larger than those drilled in the
copper pipe, into the PVC drain pipe. The holes in the copper pipe
should be snug for a 1/4" machine screw. The holes in the PVC pipe
must be loose, allowing play to properly gap the electrodes. Do not
drill all of the required holes into the PVC pipe at once, work
with one electrode at a time.
Step 22.
Mount the first electrode. Two 1/4" brass machine screws are used
with the screw heads inside of the copper pipe and the threaded
ends extending outside. Install a washer and nut on the screws and
tighten until snug but DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. Measure out ~2-1/2
inches and drill two holes for the second electrode. After fitting
you may find it necessary to file out the holes before you can get
a parallel gap. Use a feeler gauge and adjust until you can set a
gap of .028 inches with the nuts snug. It is important that the gap
be equal and parallel up and down the entire 2" length of the
copper electrodes.
Step 23.
When the gap can be set, remove the first two electrodes and smear
a stiff epoxy on the back sides around the screws. Reinstall the
electrodes and snug the washers and nuts down, adjusting as
necessary for a parallel gap. It is important that the epoxy gushes
out around the nut and washer. As the gap is run over time, heating
and cooling will loosen the mounting nuts unless there is
sufficient epoxy on the threads to permanently affix them. Make
sure to wipe away the excess and thoroughly clean the screw threads
above the nut. The screws serve as the terminal posts and if the
threads are fouled with epoxy you will have to fight to get your
connections on and off.
Step 24.
Proceed with drilling the next two holes and fit the next
electrode. Gap as above. When you can achieve a perfect gap, remove
the electrode and bed it with epoxy. Check your gaps carefully and
frequently, once the epoxy sets you will never have to worry about
them again!
Page 9

Step By Step

Step 25.
After all seven electrodes are installed, place the gap unit under
a heat lamp to speed the epoxy cure. Then assemble the blower unit.
Step 26.
Center the muffin fan on the PVC end cap and scribe a circle for
the fan cutout. Cut the circle out and drill four holes for the
muffin fan mounts. Mount the fan with the four #6 machine screws
and nuts so the air flows from the bottom of the gap unit up.
Step 27.
Slide the lamp cord through the vinyl tubing and solder the ends of
the wire to the muffin fan terminals. The vinyl tubing is important
to provide some protection from the high voltage present on the
exposed gap terminals, but do not rely on it. Route your 110 volt
line away from all high voltage points with nylon wire ties and
provide for line filtering when using the gap.
Step 28.
When the epoxy has set, mount the fan assembly on top, but do not
glue it into place. The top is removable for easy cleaning between
the electrodes with #600 or higher sandpaper wrapped on a shaved
down tongue depressor. I build a wooden or plastic tripod base to
set the gap unit on. The gap base should allow at least 3" of space
below the gap unit for airflow, I allow 4 inches.
Step 29.
The gap as sketched shows the installation of an arc shield between
the two end electrodes. This is important despite the fact that the
gap here is quite large. With a piece of 3/8 inch plexiglass glued
in this spot, gap units can be run together in series to quench
higher voltage power supplies without the arc taking the shortcuts.
Step 30.
When run with neons at 12 kv rms, two gap units are used and
all the electrodes are run in series. If higher voltage is used
(up to 25 kv) gap units may be added in straight series connection
providing your kva load does not exceed the individual gap unit
rating for long run times. Allow 1000 volts per gap between
electrodes (.028").
Page 10

Step By Step

Step 31.
When more transformers are added to the coil, the capacitance is
increased correspondingly, input voltage remains the same.
Higher tank currents require that the primary arc be split into
parallel paths to cool and quench. To meet this requirement
additional gap units are added but all gaps are tapped at the
center electrode and the two end electrodes are connected together
with copper or aluminum strap. The second gap terminal is taken
from this point. The gap is now wired for parallel operation, it
will handle twice the current. A second unit is configured the same
way and added in series with the first. The resultant gap system
will handle twice the current at the same input voltage. For
highest "Q" all connections should always be made using both
available terminals from the tapped electrodes.
Step 32.
Quenching performance can be increased by mounting an air choke on
the gap base. This will act to prevent air from passing up the
center of the gap where it takes up little heat and fewer ions.
I use a piece of 3" or smaller PVC pipe set on the gap base and
passing up into the bottom of the gap just under the electrode
ring. This forces the air to pass through the electrodes and
between the gaps to remove heat and ions and improves the run time.
Performance may also be improved by fitting finned, cylindrical
heat sinks, available at the electronics surplus or many hamfests,
into the center of the copper electrodes. A little heat sink paste
here is helpful to assist in heat removal from the electrode and
preventing corrosion from the aluminum/copper contact. Oxides
formed by contact corrosion are poor heat conductors. For maximum
effectiveness the heat sinks should be cleaned of any coating at
the contact points. Finned heat sinks installed in this fashion
will dramatically increase the surface area of the electrodes. This
is especially true in gaps of this design using larger copper pipe
and bigger gap rings.
Step 33.
When running these gap units as part of a system with a rotary, all
gap adjustments are still made on the stationary electrodes of the
rotary gap. Insert one .028" static gap (distance between each
electrode in this unit) in series for every 2000 volts of line
input to the coil, then set the rotary gap adjustment so that the
coil system fires smoothly and reliably. Suppose your rotary system
Page 11

Step By Step

has a 12 kv line input: every electrode on the cylinder static gap

unit is gapped at .028", and you need a total of 6 of these static
gaps in series with the rotary for the system to function properly
at 12000 volts. There is no limit to the number of parallel paths
that can be theoretically used, but two is the practical limit with
this design. Two cylinder static gaps hooked up for parallel
operation, and run in series with the rotary will provide excellent
quenching up to 2 kva continuous, 3.6 kva intermittent. Your rotary
will require a much smaller gap, and your quench time will have
dropped considerably. Your rotary will run cooler, your run times
will be longer, and your secondary spark will be better.
Step 34.
Another benefit of gap systems with a rotary is that the wear
caused by the hot arc is distributed among many gaps with a large
surface area. The arc at the rotary is both cooler and shorter in
duration, taking stress off of the stationary electrodes and
reducing wear at these critical points.
Step 35.
Gaps of this design using 1" diameter copper pipe can be
constructed as above to get 12 gaps into a cylinder ring of 13
electrodes. The 1" diameter pipe sections do not sink as much heat,
but if gapped at .028 -.030 inches a single unit will quench up to
15 kv rms from neon sign transformers banked up to 1.5 kva
intermittent. If the unit is constructed from 1" dia. pipe and the
electrodes are gapped at .056 -.06 the arc can be split down two
parallel paths (center electrode tapped) for a good quench time
with a neon power supply of 12 kv rms in the 1.5 kva power range,
this is of course intermittent operation but will use only one gap
unit. Using the flaired end of 6" pvc drain pipe will give enough
room to squeeze in all of the required electrodes and the arc
shield, but the result is the fan must be custom mounted, and may
have to be glued into place.
For more information and to see picture, click here>
http://www.monmouth.com/~grimcorona/the.htm

The Richard Quick Capacitor

The capacitor roll is made from the polyethylene sheet and the
aluminum flashing. It is important that all of these materials
Page 12

Step By Step

are absolutely clean and free from defects.

Step 36.
Clean and vacuum up a work area large enough to lay all of your
plates and dielectric out. If things are dusty you may want to
mop. When the work area is clean; lay down fresh newspaper, or
even better, butcher paper, over the entire work area. You will
need a long, hard, smooth, flat surface to roll your capacitor up
on. A clean, paper covered concrete floor works well, as does a
couple of paper covered buffet or serving tables.
Step 37.
Cut the poly sheet lengthwise into three equal strips. The
standard material width for this sheet is 48 inches. You will get
three 16" wide strips from the sheet, though only two strips will
be required to make one capacitor roll. The strips must be washed
and wiped on both sides with PrepSol or alcohol and lint free
wipes or high quality paper towels. Then they must be wiped dry.
Static may become a problem here, and the dielectric may collect
dust. A ground strap run to a water pipe may be wired to a copper
or brass brush. The plates and dielectric may be swiped lightly
to ground out static, but do not scratch the material.
Step 38.
Cut two lengths of aluminum flashing 102" long. The flashing must
be six inches shorter than the polyethylene strips. The material
is already two inches narrower. Use a good pair of heavy duty
scissors to cut the aluminum. The strips of flashing (plates)
must have the corners well rounded, and have all sharp edges
smoothed. Trim the corners off with the scissors, then sand all
of the edges you cut with #150 emery cloth. Drill a hole, 1/2"
from one end of each flashing strip for the terminal mount.
Inspect your plate. It should have no dents, sharp points,
"ruffles"
along the edges, etc. Many flaws can be carefully worked out.
Step 39.
The aluminum capacitor plates must be washed and dried. Fill a
five gallon bucket with very hot water and a good squirt of
liquid detergent. Roll the plate up and "dip, swish, and swirl"
until all the sanding grit, manufacturing oil, and dirt wash off.
Rinse the plate well and stand it on its edges on clean newspaper
Page 13

Step By Step

until it is dried. Don't worry if the plates oxidize a little.

Lay out your meticulously clean plates and dielectric sheets.
Step 40.
Lay one strip of plastic dielectric down first. Then lay a plate
on top and center it. The plate is centered so that there is a
one inch border of dielectric plastic evenly along the long
sides. Line up the end of the plate with the terminal hole flush
(even) with one END of the plastic. The far end of the plate will
be six inches short of flush with the bottom dielectric sheet.
Lay a second sheet of plastic on top so that it is exactly lined
up the bottom strip of plastic.
Lay the last plate down on the stack and center it. The plate is
centered so that there is a one inch border of dielectric plastic
evenly on both of the long sides. Now, the first plate you laid
will have the terminal end flush with one end of the bottom dielectric, it makes no difference which end; line up the second
plate so that the terminal end is flush with the end of the
second dielectric sheet, but it must be at the opposite end from
the bottom plate terminal.
Step 41.
Cut two 1" strips of aluminum flashing 14" long. Tape them
together into a 1" strap. Round it and sand it. Then untape it
and wipe or wash the strips. Reassemble and punch a hole in each
end. One hole for a 1/4" or larger screw (tank terminal), the
other for the #8 pan head machine screw (plate terminal). Using a
#8 pan head machine screw, mount this strap into the terminal
hole on the top plate. Use a flat washer, a tiny drop of loctite
thread fastener, and then a nut. Snug the connection down firmly.
This strap serves as a high current lead from the plate to the
terminal mount on the capacitor lid. Make sure that it is the
smooth pan head of the screw pressing into the plastic capacitor
dielectric as the capacitor is rolled up; not the sharp screw
shaft. Do not allow the sharp threaded end to press into the
capacitor. It is a good idea to have a couple of spare patches of
60 or 30 mil plastic to place under the pressure points of the
terminal connector screws. This will help prevent breakdown.
Step 42.
Page 14

Step By Step

Starting from the terminal end of the top plate on the stack, the
end with the terminal strap already mounted, roll the capacitor
up as tightly as possible. Make sure that the top plate does not
curl around to touch back on itself on the first turn. A strip of
extra plastic here can be helpful. If the first turn of the roll
looks poor, then unroll, line everything up, and try again.
Step 43.
When the capacitor is tightly rolled, do not loosen your grip.
Have an assistant put two wire ties together and slip them over
the roll. When the wire ties are cinched, you may loosen up.
Step 44.
As you rolled the capacitor up, the first plate in the stack
worked its way out of the roll a few inches. This plate should
present you with a terminal hole to mount a second 1x14" strap of
aluminum to complete the second high current lead.
Step 45.
Mount the second lead, making sure the smooth screw head is
against the capacitor, not the sharp threaded end. You will have
one lead coming up from inside the roll, and the other coming up
from the outside. Put at least three wire tie strips around the
roll. Two 12" wire ties connected together will give enough
circumference.
Step 46.
Set the capacitor roll into the tank. Fill with one gallon of
mineral oil. The roll must be covered by at least a quarter inch
of oil to suppress corona and prevent flashover. Note that the
oil soaks into the roll. The level will drop after filling, and
may drop again after use. Check on it occasionally until the
capacitor is fully broken in, a period of about six months.
Step 47.
Connect the leads from the capacitor roll to the tank lid. For
the tank lid terminals use at least 1/4 inch brass machine screws
and tighten down well. The head of the machine screw should be
inside the lid, the first nut on top will hold the connection
tight, the second nut is removable for connection to your
Page 15

Step By Step

circuit. Do not seal or glue the lid in place.

Step 48.
Do not apply the full rated voltage to these units until they
have set for at least three days, and the oil has had a chance to
soak in to the roll. It is best to start them out at about half
voltage, or less, and run them for short periods for the first
few days on a smaller coil. These units are quite serviceable.
On larger coils it is best to put these units in series/parallel
to back them up against kickback.
Step 49.
Because the material width of the polyethylene is 48", you get
three 16" strips of dielectric from cutting a length. You will
have one strip left over. Because of this, it is perhaps better
to plan on building at least two units at a time. This makes more
efficient use of material, but more so for the use of time. Once
a temporary "clean room" has been established it makes sense to
use it to fullest advantage.
Step 50.
The effort in building a first class cap is worth the extra time
and expense to do it right. The unit will last longer, withstand
more abuse, and give you more capacitance if it is well constructed. Once this effort is expended, and the unit is in
service, don't blow it. Rather than risk the investment you
should build more caps, "backing up" your existing caps and
increasing power by adding caps as you go.
Richard Hull has a video report (#3) that covers the basic
construction of this design. I have made a few slight modifications to increase the capacitance and pulse characteristics.
Richard Quick
.. If all else fails... Throw another megavolt across it!
___ Blue Wave/QWK v2.12

Page 16

Step By Step

Step ??.
Once all your major componants are complete, heat up your soldering iron and
get your solder ready, and locate the inner end of the coil and drill a 3/8" hole
in the wooden octagon plain to serve as a way-through for the HV cable. Cut a
12-14" long piece of HV cable and cut a 1/2" splice the ends of the cable.

Home

Send mail to grimcorona@monmouth.com with questions or comments about this web

site.
Last modified: April 17, 1999

Page 17