New GSSL Guide

The New GssL
Components Placement Manual
[DATO]
READ THIS
A WORD OF CAUTION
THE NEW GSSL
If you a using this manual to build a unit, chances are you

probably havent had much prior experience with DIY
electronics. I have tried to make it as easy as possible for you to
get started, but I really dont want you to get hurt, so
remember
Electricity kills!
The risks involved in following the assembly guide to place the
components are limited to burning your fingers on the
soldering iron, falling off your chair and banging your head in
the table, but you should consult a professional before adding
power to any projects to make sure everything is safe.
THEN READ THIS

AND A FEW HINTS
Print the resistor chart located at the back of this manual and
the board layout on the product site before getting started.
You can check off resistors on the list when you have placed
them to keep track of your work, and you can consult with the
PDF board layout to make sure you do not leave any unwanted
solder bridges as you move forward.
MANUAL BY GUSTAV GRINDERSLEV

HTTPS://PCBGRINDER.COM
https://pcbgrinder.com
And with that, its time to fire up your soldering iron, meter and
pliers (You do have a soldering iron, a meter and a pair of cutting
pliers ready, right?)
an electrical component
designed to introduce a
known value of resistance
into a circuit
RESISTORS
The resistors are all marked on the PCB
layout with rectangular boxes containing R,
K and M values (ohms (R), Kilo-ohms (K) and
Mega-ohms(M). Ignore the %-markings,
unless you use vintage DBX202 VCAs
Its pretty hard to screw up the placement,
and they do not have to face any particular
direction. Whats most difficult about the
resistor is getting the correct value.
Values
The bands are a colour coded, but I
recommend that you use your meter to
measure the value before placing them it is
very simple..
1.
Set your meter up to measure

resistance (Omega symbol)
2. Measure at each end of the resistor

(Touching the component will add
resistance and give a faulty reading,
so a pair of alligator clips will come in
handy)
3. Place it in the PCB, solder it in place
and check it off on the list of values
you printed before getting started
4. snip off the excess leg (and save those

for later)
JUMPERS
There are a few connections on the PCB that are

simply marked by a line, which means you will have
to add a jumper. You can buy some gold plated
custom made jumpers when you have more money
than sense, but for now, just use the excess legs you
snipped off of the resistors. (Make sure to jump the
HPF if youre not using it)
DIODES
An electronic device that
restricts current flow chiefly
to one direction
FORWARD FLOW
The diode is a directional component,
and they each have a black ring in one
end.
The ones provided with the New GssL
kit are all 1n4148, so the value is easy to
figure out. You just have to make sure
you face it so the black ring points to the
end with the line across on the silk
screen as pictured.
IC SOCKETS
INTO THE GROOVE

The IC sockets are not a necessity, but they do
make it easier to place or replace ICs if needed,
and you avoid soldering directly on to the ICs.
If you pick one up, you will notice a small bump in
the end of it, and if you look at the drawing of the
ICs on the PCB silk screen you will notice a little
bump in the end of it..
Guess what You have to match those up!
PICO POWER
The Ceramic capacitors are 10p, 22p, 33p
and 100p. You might wonder why the
100p cap has 101 printed on it, but
wonder no more - the third number
states how many zeroes you should add
to 10, which is 1, which makes it 100
You should have no problem finding
their locations on the silk screen, and
they are not directional.
CERAMIC CAPS
POLYESTER CAPS
NANO POWER
There is only one type of
Polyester Cap in the kit, it is
non-directional and you solder
it in everywhere it says .1 on the
silk screen.
N.B. I left out the VCA sockets
by mistake. Figure it out
yourself, and youre worthy of a
GssL (look at the picture)
An electric circuit
element
used to store charge
temporarily
TANTALUM DROP CAPS

DROP THE POWER
The
Tantalum
caps
are
directional, and you match the
positive side with the plus on
the silk screen. The two values
(0.47uF = u47, 6,8uF=6u8) are
written on the caps and on the
PCB.
You can identify the positive
side in one of two ways
1.
The + is printed on the

component
2. The longest leg is +
ELECTROLYTIC CAPS (ELCOS)

POWER SILOS
The Electrolytic caps are
directional, and you match the
positive side with the plus on
the silk screen. The value is
printed on the cap
The + side is easily identified by
the longest leg, or you can see
the minus symbols down the
negative side
P.S. If youre building it in a 1
unit case, make sure to tip the
highest elcos. (pictured in the
top corner - (I almost forgot))
RECTIFIERS
BRIDGE
Theres also a round bridge
rectifier. Its the round thing,
and you put it in the circle and
put the + leg through the
square hole (Turn the PCB
around to make sense of that)
THE PACKAGES
The value is printed on the
components and the PCB, and
you place them with their backs
faving to the double line on the
PCB. (It will make sense if you
just take a quick look at them).
These guys regulate the current
SWITCHES
GUESSING GAME
Some switches have two poles
in the centre.
Some of the switches have
four poles in the centre.
It doesnt matter which way
you turn them, as long as you
find the slot with the
corresponding amount of pins.
Youll have one switch left with
4 centre taps Save that for
later.
MOLEX CONNECTORS
ALMOST THERE
If you add the male molex
connectors to the board now,
it should look something like
this
MOLEX CONNECTORS
ALMOST THERE
If you add the male molex
connectors to the board now,
it should look something like
this
BUST OUT THE CABLE

The pots need to be wired, but
its not that hard, and if you tin
the wire before soldering, it
will be as easy as pie.
POTS
Tool tip
I forgot to do it in this build,
but if you lay out the case, you
can cut the molex connectors
for different color wires to
mount the pots and the bypass
I prefer to mount them on the

back, but its best to wire them
through the PCB
As you can see, these cables
turned out a bit too long. You
can always shorten everything
and tidy it up when youre done
mounting the boards in a case.
LED
LED AND BYPASS SWITCH
Make sure to put the longest

leg through the hole closest to
the corner.
And should be wired like this

THE BYPASS SWITCH
It looks like this
CONNECTING THE PCBs
MAKE A CONNECTION
The 10 pin connector on the
main PCB needs to be
connected to the main board.
Make sure the letters on
main PCB are wired to
corresponding letters on
control PCB (Check the
screen)
the
the
the
silk
THE METER
Now all you need to do is add
the wires for the meter
(marked on the control board
as M+ and M-), and the PCBs
are done
UNKOWN TERRITORY
Up till now, I have been showing you how to add
the components included with the kit. For this
next section, I will be using some things not
included
I purchased a Case with XLRs, power jack

and meter included from Frontpanels.de
(It is cheaper to buy a blank case and a
cheap meter, but Franks service and
quality is easy and great)
A 2x15 Toroid and a fuse
The odd screws, bolts, shrink wrap and

some mains wire
Shopping list
CLICK CLICK
PCB SWITCHES
You have to program the switches to the

correct amount of turns, but dont worry
its purely mechanical. Put the center tap in
slot that corresponds to the number of
steps you need on the switch as pictured.
Ratio = 3
Attack = 6
Release = 5
Snip the anti-rotating

pin on the switches
attached to the controlboard. They will be held
in place by the PCB
when you mount it in
the front panel, and the
pin would be in the way.
ON/OFF IN/OUT
These switches and pots are running solo,
so in order to avoid rotation when you turn
them, you have to use the anti-rotate peg.
Drill a small hole in the frontpanel to
secure it (and program the bypass for two
steps (in/out) )
THE WIRES
METER
Attach the M+ and M- wires to + and on the meter
You already attached the

bypass switch and the
pots at an earlier stage,
but at this point, you can
de-solder them one by
one and trim the length if
youre into that sort of
thing
LEGS AND PEGS

Drill 4 holes in the case for the main PCB
(3mm) and one for the toroid (measure
your bolt for diameter) and place the PCB
using the PCB mounts.
(Sorry about the lack of focus)
MAIN PCB AND TOROID
MAKE IT SPEAK
If you look at the PCB and the XLRs, you
will see numbers on the XLRs and markings
on the silk screen.
Solder the +-pins from the PCB to the
connectors marked with a 2 on the XLRs
Solder the pins from the PCB to the
connectors marked with a 3 on the XLRs
Leave the middle wire hanging for now
(Back in focus!)
XLR
LED
LET THERE BE LIGHT

You can design a case with a hole for the
LED or drill a hole for it, but I prefer to
move it over to light the meter.
Snip off the LED from where you soldered
it in earlier, add some wire and shrink wrap
it (longest piece of wrap for the +leg!) and
connect it back to the control-panel PCB
same as it was before.
Please it on top of the meter with a small
piece of glue, and you have a lit meter.
(Skip a few pages ahead and check the
overview if you are confused)
WARNING
Hire a professional EE or electrician to help
check your work if you are not experienced
with electronics. You risk getting shocked,
injured or killed
CONNECTING THE TOROID (1)

SECONDARIES
You should have a Toroid with 2x15 secondaries
(primary will depend on your country), and you
need to wire them in series.
The colors on the wires will vary, but they are
written on the side of the toroid and refer to
the start and end of each winding. (the trafo
used in this manual says red blue/Green
brown, as an example)
To wire them in series, combine the end of the
first secondary with the start of the second
secondary (blue with green). The combined
wire goes to 0V on the main PCB, and the two
remaining single wires go to 15 V pads on the
sides (It should be obvious if you look at the
PCB)
POWER JACK & TOROID TO POWER SWITCH

1.
Connect two wires to the Power Jack and

place shrink wrap over them

2. Place shrink wrap on the toroid mains
wires and the cables from the power jack
before you solder them to the switch.
POWER JACK & TOROID TO POWER SWITCH

3. If you set your meter to beep-mode
(Whats that in English?) you can easily
double check that you set up the toroid
mains and the power wires so they both
break in the off position.

4. Make sure to cover the connectors with
the shrink wrap, and use your own or
your girlfriends hair dryer to shrink it
GROUNDING
GROUNDING
Cut the middle leg on the molex for the

output XLR and strip a piece of wire.
Connect the stripped wire to all the

ground connections on the XLRs (marked
on the XLR with a 1)
Connect the input ground to the wire
Solder a wire to the ground connection

(middle) on the power jack
Drill a hole and connect a screw with a

terminal on your back panel.
Connect the wires at the terminal.
Measure to check the connection.
Voila youre grounded.

N.B.(After taking this pic, I learned that the
grounding should be as close to the power jack as
possiblenow you know too)
ICs & VCAs

Theres a dot on the ICs and a mark on the VCA.
You should place those in the dots and markings
on the silk screen.
Its probably hard to see those markings after
soldering in the sockets, but you can check with
the PCB layout PDF.
CHIPS
You should check your voltages before

adding these it might save you a fried
component
IF YOU ARE NOT AN EXPERIENCED EE,

CONSULT A PROFESSIONAL IF YOU
INTEND TO POWER UP THIS UNIT.
HIGH VOLTAGES ARE LETHAL
What I forgot to write in the

manual.
You do not want to risk the bolt
holding the toroid touching the
case, so make sure to cut the
bolt to size, and consider
padding the case to avoid
contact.
You
Resistors GssL
(+/- 1% tolerance/reading)
2pcs Resistor, 10 OHM METALFILM

2pcs Resistor 22 OHM METALFILM
7pcs Resistor, 1K OHM METALFILM
1pcs Resistor, 2.7K OHM METALFILM
3pcs Resistor, 5,1K OHM METALFILM
1pcs Resistor, 8.2K OHM METALFILM
1pcs Resistor, 1.0M OHM METALFILM
1pcs Resistor, 1,8M OHM METALFILM

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The New GssL

Components Placement Manual

THE NEW GSSL

If you a using this manual to build a unit, chances are you

THEN READ THIS

MANUAL BY GUSTAV GRINDERSLEV

Set your meter up to measure

2. Measure at each end of the resistor

4. snip off the excess leg (and save those

There are a few connections on the PCB that are

INTO THE GROOVE

Guess what You have to match those up!

TANTALUM DROP CAPS

The + is printed on the

2. The longest leg is +

ELECTROLYTIC CAPS (ELCOS)

BUST OUT THE CABLE

I prefer to mount them on the

LED AND BYPASS SWITCH

Make sure to put the longest

And should be wired like this

CONNECTING THE PCBs

I purchased a Case with XLRs, power jack

A 2x15 Toroid and a fuse

The odd screws, bolts, shrink wrap and

You have to program the switches to the

Snip the anti-rotating

You already attached the

LEGS AND PEGS

MAIN PCB AND TOROID

LET THERE BE LIGHT

CONNECTING THE TOROID (1)

POWER JACK & TOROID TO POWER SWITCH

Connect two wires to the Power Jack and

CONNECTING THE TOROID (2)

POWER JACK & TOROID TO POWER SWITCH

CONNECTING THE TOROID (3)

Cut the middle leg on the molex for the

Connect the stripped wire to all the

Connect the input ground to the wire

Solder a wire to the ground connection

Drill a hole and connect a screw with a

Connect the wires at the terminal.

Measure to check the connection.

Voila youre grounded.

ICs & VCAs

You should check your voltages before

IF YOU ARE NOT AN EXPERIENCED EE,

What I forgot to write in the

2pcs Resistor, 10 OHM METALFILM

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