Performance Apparel Markets Sample PDF

Performance
Apparel
Markets
Business and market analysis
of worldwide trends in high
performance activewear and
corporate apparel
No 46 3rd quarter 2013
Inside this issue:

Fast track: protecting sports participants from
head injuries
Product developments and innovations
Waterproof breathable fabrics: demand for
comfort is driving innovation
Profile of Jack Wolfskin: a premium outdoor
apparel brand
Business update: acquisitions, divestments
and mergers; company strategy; corporate
social responsibility (CSR); financial results;
investments; joint ventures, cooperation,
licensing and distribution; new brands;
new stores
Glossary: terms and definitions
Performance Apparel Markets

ISSN 1477-6456
No 46
3rd quarter 2013
Contents
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Fast track: protecting sports participants from head injuries

Introduction
MIPS AB: Multi-directional Impact Protection System (MIPS)
Phillips Helmets: Phillips Head Protection System (PHPS)
Lazer: SuperSkin, Pure Carbon and Pure Glass
Reebok and MC10: CheckLight
Adidas and Ayrtek: AdiPower
Summary
Fabrics for protective apparel
Fabric treatments
Fibres and yarns for performance apparel
New materials for sports equipment
Performance apparel for water sports
Smart clothing
Sportswear
Waterproof breathable fabrics: demand for comfort is driving innovation
Summary
Introduction
Development of waterproof breathable constructions
The market for waterproof breathable fabrics
Waterproof breathability in performance apparel
Testing standards for waterproofness, water repellency and breathability
Ways of achieving waterproof breathability in apparel
Waterproof breathable garments
Applications of waterproof breathable materials
Innovations in waterproof breathable materials
Outlook
Profile of Jack Wolfskin: a premium outdoor apparel brand
Summary
Introduction
Company development
Products and applications
Product innovations
Product sourcing
Distribution, sales and marketing
Corporate social responsibility (CSR)
Outlook
Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
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Contents
Business update
Summary
Acquisitions, divestments and mergers
Company strategy
Corporate social responsibility (CSR)
Financial results
Investments
Joint ventures, cooperation, licensing and distribution
New brands
New stores
Index to Performance Apparel Markets
Planned for forthcoming issues...

Antimicrobial fibres and fabrics; moisture management; sensory technology; stain protection
...plus regular features
Fast track; corporate profiles; product developments and innovations; business update
Performance Apparel Markets

ISSN 1477-6456
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The editor
This issue of Performance Apparel Markets has been researched and edited by Lisa Muran,
Jessica Farricker and Shaheda Khanom.
Statistics
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n/a = not available or not applicable
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Fast track: protecting sports

participants from head injuries
INTRODUCTION
Head protection represents a significant segment of the market for
sports gear.
In most contact sports, head protection is either mandatory or at least
preferred. The main exception is football (soccer)a sport in which
players purposefully use their unprotected heads to control the ball.
That said, performance standards for helmets have been established in
football, as well as in many other contact sportsincluding American
football, baseball, cricket, cycling, equestrianism, ice hockey, motor
racing, rugby and snow sports.
In general terms, safety helmets have remained essentially the same
for decades, and usually comprise:
a comfort liner;
an impact attenuating liner;
a restraint system; and
a shell.
Most liners are made from expanded polystyrene (EPS) while most
shells are made from thermoplastics. However, advanced models are
made from carbon-, glass- or Kevlar-reinforced composites.
Such helmets are designed to prevent traumatic head injuriesin the
same way as seatbelts, airbags and smoke detectors have saved
countless lives over the past 40 years. However, a debate has raged
recently over whether or not they could do more.
Specifically, the question is whether helmets could do anything to
mitigate the effects of concussion. This is a frequent occurrence in
contact sports, and it can have short- and long-term consequences for
brain health in general and for neuro-cognitive functions in particular.
MIPS AB: MULTI-DIRECTIONAL IMPACT PROTECTION SYSTEM

(MIPS)
At the centre of the debate about the effectiveness of helmets is a
technology called Multi-directional Impact Protection System (MIPS).
4
The technology, developed and marketed by MIPS AB, a company

based in Stockholm, Sweden, provides an increased level of protection
against oblique impacts to the headwhich, according to accident
statistics, represent the most common accidents.
However, official testing methods do not assess the extent to which
helmets protect against oblique impacts. Instead, tests involve
dropping the helmet vertically on to the impact surface. As a result,
helmets have been designed to optimise protection against vertical
impacts rather than oblique impacts.
During an impact to the head, the latter sustains injury from a direct
collision but also has to contend with rotational accelerationthe
shifting action which occurs as the head whips back on the neck. This
can result in a shear strain, in which the brain tissue bends or twists.
A helmet incorporating MIPS technology absorbs much of the
rotational energy, and is therefore said to offer radically better
protection.
MIPS works by mimicking one of the safety systems which already
exist in the human head. When the head is subjected to an impact, the
brain slides along a membrane on the inner surface of the skull and
such action reduces the forces transmitted to the brain.
This action was emulated by researchers at Kungliga Tekniska
Hgskolan (KTHRoyal Institute of Technology) and the Karolinska
Institutet in Stockholm.
In subsequent experimental and numerical tests, MIPS technology has
shown a dramatic reduction of the forces to the brain resulting from
an impact.
In a helmet with MIPS technology, the shell and the liner are
separated by a low friction layer which allows the shell to rotate
relative to the liner when the helmet is subjected to an oblique impact.
In designing the technology, MIPS AB developed a release
mechanism which makes the helmet feel secure in normal handling,
but which releases the liner from the shell when a certain load is
exceeded. The liner then absorbs some of the pressure and thereby
protects the head from the full force of the impact.
Special attention was given during development to ensuring that the
technology did not interfere with other properties of helmets, such as
weight, design and comfort.
Indeed, the incorporation of MIPS technology results in only a 5%
increase in weight. Also, the technology does not have any impact on
comfort or design.
MIPS AB first showed prototypes of the technology as long ago as

2008. However, the technology failed to take the market for helmets
by storm, and there appear to be a number of reasons for this.
In particular, helmet manufacturing companies have been
programmed only to ensure that their products pass EU or US
certification. Commenting on this, the chief executive officer (CEO)
of MIPS, Nick Steenberg, stated: Wed created a situation where
better protection was available but no one gave a damn about it,
because you didnt need it to pass certification. The concern that
helmets werent protecting against concussion1 wasnt even on the
agenda.
The technology was accused of doing nothing but taking up space and
adding complexity. Worse still, ASTM International (formerly known
as the American Society for Testing and Materials) deemed the
technology unproven and maintained that no helmet could reduce the
risk of concussion.
The implication is that the helmet testing industry is very resistant to
change.
Large manufacturers of helmets do not find it easy to adapt their
products so that the latter can accommodate new technology, and
those who have been investigating this concept have been doing so
largely behind closed doors and away from the eyes of competitors
and lawyers.
Gradually, however, MIPS technology has started to reach receptive
ears. The first to introduce a helmet incorporating MIPS technology
was a Sweden-based equestrian company, Back on Track, in 2009.
In 2011 a helmet incorporating MIPS technology for the mountain
bike sector was developed by a Sweden-based manufacturer of
protective sports gear called POC.
In 2013 the technology was introduced into bike helmets produced by
the USA-based company Scott Sports. Also, the technology has
recently been endorsed enthusiastically by Popular Science magazine.
PHILLIPS HELMETS: PHILLIPS HEAD PROTECTION SYSTEM

(PHPS)
The Phillips Head Protection System (PHPS) is based on similar
principles to those of MIPS technology.
1
Current test methods do not measure how helmets manage rotational acceleration, and this is a cause for
concern given that many injuries, notably concussion, are caused by rotational force resulting from an
impact.
6
The system was developed by Dr Ken Phillips, a UK-based inventor.

Dr Phillips observed that rotation of the head causes severe and
untreatable damage to the brain within milliseconds of an impact to
the head, and that the scalp reduces the effect of the impact by sliding
over the skull.
In the PHPS, there is a lubricated flexible membrane over the outside
of the helmet. The lubricant and elastic quality of the membrane are
said to reduce the effect of rotational force on the brain by over 60%
in the critical milliseconds following an impact to the headthereby
significantly reducing the head trauma and reducing the risk of
traumatic brain injury.
In the case of a motorcycle helmet, the PHPS membrane acts an
additional interface between the helmet and the ground at the point
where the helmet hits the ground during the milliseconds following an
impact.
The PHPS membrane decreases the friction of the helmet surface by
moving and sliding over the hard shell. As a result, the riders head
slips and slides over the road surface instead of sharply and
immediately twisting around.
LAZER: SUPERSKIN, PURE CARBON AND PURE GLASS

SUPERSKIN
SuperSkin is a lubricated membrane layer developed by Lazer, a
Belgium-based motorcycle helmet manufacturer.
The membrane is based on PHPS technology, and is applied to the
outside of the helmet. This helps to decrease the friction of the helmet
surface so that the helmet slides on its shell and limits the rotational
force which can result when the helmet hits the ground.
PURE CARBON
Pure Carbon, also developed by Lazer, provides greater comfort than
conventional shells as the shell is ultra-lightweight. Weight is a crucial
factor in the comfort of a helmet, and the outer shell is the heaviest
component.
Moreover, despite being ultra-lightweight, the shell provides a high
level of protection.
The shell has a sandwich structure comprising the following four
layers:
an outer layer of high tensile strength satin carbon;

a layer of natural fibres;
a sheet of woven multiaxial fibres; and
a scrim of carbon twill on the inner layer.
7
Pure Carbon shells are manufactured using proprietary weave patterns,

resin formulae, temperature controlled polymerisation and vacuum
moulding processes.
The resins permeate the fibres in the layers more deeply and more
homogenously than the resins used in conventional shells, and they
have graduated fracturing qualitiesmuch like the shock absorption
zones on cars.
Graduated fracturing slows down the impact on the shell by providing
consecutive yielding points, each of which dissipates some of the
rotational force resulting from the impact.
PURE GLASS
Lazer also offers a shell called Pure Glass. This has a structure which
is similar to that of Pure Carbon except that it employs glass fabrics
instead of carbon.
As in the case of Pure Carbon shells, Pure Glass shells are ultralightweight and are therefore more comfortable than conventional
shells.
Also, as in the case of Pure Carbon, Pure Glass shells are
manufactured using proprietary weave patterns, resin formulae,
temperature controlled polymerisation and vacuum moulding processes.
Furthermore, as in the case of Pure Carbon shells, the resins permeate
the fibres in the layers more deeply and more homogenously than the
resins used in conventional shells and have graduated fracturing
qualities.
As noted above, graduated fracturing slows down the impact on the
shell by providing consecutive yielding points, each of which
dissipates some of the rotational force resulting from the impact.
REEBOK AND MC10: CHECKLIGHT

CheckLight is a sports cap which is able to detect when an athlete has
received a serious blow to the head. The cap was launched by Reebok
in July 2013.
CheckLight is the result of collaboration between Reeboks Advanced
Concepts group and MC102, a technology company based in
Cambridge, Massachusetts, USA. It is the first product to exploit the
conformable electronics capabilities of MC10, and to wearers it feels
as though it is almost seamless.
2
See also Reebok and MC10 have developed a new skull cap which can detect when an athlete has
received a serious blow to the head, Product developments and innovations, Performance Apparel
Markets, No 45, 2nd quarter 2013, page 23.
8
The technology has the ability to capture important data relating to

impacts and is housed inside a mesh skull cap which is thin and
breathable and fits comfortably under any helmet.
MC10 discovered a method for making microprocessors which are so
bendable and thin that they resemble electronic skin.
The method was discovered purely by accident. In 2005 a researcher
at the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign, Professor John
Rogers, was testing new ways of making electronic circuits.
During these tests, he accidentally pulled a piece of rubber taut as he
placed it underneath a circuit. When he released the stretched rubber,
it sprang back and the circuit became a wavy, buckled mess. The
result was described as an accordion made of silicon and led to the
formation of MC10.
The process for creating the bendable electronic circuits begins with
the manufacture of ribbons of ultra-thin silicon, each of which is
100 nanometres3 thick. At that scale, the physical properties of silicon
differ from those of a conventional wafer.
The ribbons are assembled into a lattice and then transferred on to a
layer of rubber. The result is a flexible and durable semiconductor.
Professor Rogers and his team have spent the years since their
discovery refining the process in order to make it more suitable for
high volume, low cost production.
The company is now manufacturing electronic circuits which can be
woven into fabrics, moulded on to flexible devices, or even adhered
to body parts. The circuits can process data 1,000 times faster than
other flexible microprocessors and they are as fast as conventional
computer chips.
The technology has proved popular, and has been adopted in a number
of other sectors.
MC10 has contracts with the US military under which it will work to
adapt the technology to enable it to be used as photovoltaic skin.
This could be used to power an unmanned aerial vehicle.
MC10 is also exploring applications in the healthcare sector. In
particular, it is working with Massachusetts General Hospital in the
USA to put stretchy microprocessors on the tips of cardiac catheters
which are threaded through arteries into the heart.
3
A nanometre (nm) is one billionth of a metre (10-9). By way of illustration, a single grain of sand measures
approximately 100,000 nm in width.
The smart catheters will at first be used to monitor electrical activity

and help doctors to pinpoint the location of irregular heartbeats, or
arrhythmias. Eventually, they could help to treat arrhythmias by
attacking and destroying malfunctioning tissue.
Meanwhile, Reebok has formed a partnership with the Neurotrauma
Impact Science Laboratory (NISL) at the University of Ottawa in
Canada which will enable it to thoroughly test its helmet technologies
using the universitys rotational impact testing protocol4.
ADIDAS AND AYRTEK: ADIPOWER

Adidas has developed a range of helmets under the name AdiPower
for use by sports participants who play cricket.
The helmets were developed with the help of technology from
Ayrteka small company based in Bristol, UK.
The flagship helmet in the range is called AdiPower RawTek. This has
a shell made from a combination of carbon fibre and Kevlar, and it is
available in a size range of 52-64 cm.
It incorporates a patented Air Cushion Impact System (ACIS) liner
developed by Ayrtek.
The ACIS liner allows the wearer to achieve a bespoke fit by inflating
it using a pump, or deflating it using an air release valve.
As a result, the liner is able to cater to a large spectrum of head
shapes and sizes.
The development of the technology began with an intensive research,
design and testing programme.
This involved an investigation into the most common causes of head
injuries for cricketers while they are batting.
Most of these head injuries are caused by:
the ball being able to penetrate the gap between the faceguard and
the peak of the helmet;
contact between the faceguard and the head or face after the
faceguard has been hit by the ball;
being struck in the back of the head, which is a relatively
unprotected area; and
the proximity of the faceguard to the batters temple.
4
Reebok-CCM Hockey is set to launch a new helmet in 2014 which will include new technologies and will
be the only helmet which has been designed and tested using rotational impact protocol.
10
Helmets in the AdiPower range have been specifically designed to

reduce the likelihood of these injuries occurring because:
the gap between the peak and the faceguard is so small that the
likelihood of the ball being able to penetrate the gap is reduced;
the faceguard is strengthened;
the shell of the helmet is made from the strongest material
possible; and
the internal padding of the helmet provides a high level of comfort
and protection.
Adidas and Ayrtek carried out rigorous testing at all stages of the
helmets development in conjunction with the Sports Technology
Institute at Loughborough University in the UK.
When the new range was launched, the global vice-president for
cricket at Adidas, Simon Cartwright, said: Cricket is [a] high velocity
sport which requires extreme reaction times, particularly for batsmen
who face fast bowling regularly. Its vital that batsmen feel
comfortable and confident in their equipmentparticularly an
important item like a helmet.
The England international cricketer Michael Carberry added: In
international cricket, were consistently facing bowling of 90-100
miles an hour (mph). When batting ... [a ball travelling at that speed]
... your mind is as free from distractions as possible. For me this
means that the equipment I use should not only enhance my
performance and look good but should also help me to feel physically
and mentally comfortable so that I can give my full attention to the
bowler.
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Product developments and

innovations
SUMMARY
HeiQ and Huntsman Textile Effects have separately developed new fabric treatments, called
Glider and EverGlide respectively, which reduce friction between the fabric to which they are applied
and the skin of the wearer of a garment made from the fabric. EverGlide also provides the fabric with
moisture wicking properties. Meanwhile, Tanatex has developed two new water repellent fabric
treatments which are free from fluorocarbons.
TenCate Protective Fabrics has developed two new types of protective fabric for use in the
manufacture of firefighters turnout gear, and Teijin Frontier has developed a high performance
stretch yarn called Solotex OO.
Nike has developed a new range of sportswear which is manufactured using warp knitting technology.
The range, called Nike Pro Elite Knit, has been designed especially for women and includes two styles
of tank top and a pair of leggings. Nike has also developed a new waterproof sports jacket for golfers,
called Nike Hyperadapt Storm-FIT.
Hexoskin has developed a new T-shirt, also called Hexoskin, which is fitted with sensors that can
analyse movement, breathing patterns and heart rate activity.
Shark Attack Mitigation Systems (SAMS) and scientists from the Oceans Institute at the University of
Western Australia have jointly developed two new wetsuits which, it is claimed, help to prevent the
wearer from being attacked by sharks. NSP has developed a new range of surfboards and
paddleboards, called Coco Mat, which are made using coconut husk fibres.
FABRICS FOR PROTECTIVE APPAREL
TenCate Protective
Fabrics has developed
two new types of
protective fabric for
firefighters turnout gear
TENCATE PROTECTIVE FABRICS HAS DEVELOPED

TWO NEW TYPES OF FABRIC FOR USE IN THE
MANUFACTURE OF FIREFIGHTERS TURNOUT GEAR
TenCate Protective Fabrics has developed two new types of protective
fabric for use in the manufacture of firefighters turnout gear1.
TenCate Protective Fabrics is a manufacturer of flame resistant (FR)
fabrics and a division of the Netherlands-based company Royal
Ten Cate.
Turnout gear is the protective clothing worn by firefighters when they tend to a fire.
12
One of the fabrics, called

TenCate Gemini XTL, is
made using PBI fibre
which has excellent
thermal properties
One of the fabrics, called TenCate Gemini XTL, is made using

polybenzimidazole (PBI) fibre.
The fabric has high tear

strength, tensile strength
and abrasion resistance
TenCate Protective Fabrics claims that the fabric has higher tear
strength, tensile strength and resistance to abrasion than any other
protective fabrics which are made using PBI fibres.
The other fabric, called

TenCate Millenia, is made
using PBO fibre which has
a tensile strength and a
modulus superior to those
of aramid fibres
The other fabric, called TenCate Millenia, is made using

poly(p-phenylene-2,6-benzobisoxazole) (PBO) fibre. PBO fibre is a
high performance fibre which has a tensile strength and a modulus
superior to those of aramid fibres such as Kevlar, Technora and
Twaron, as well as high flame resistance and thermal stability. Also,
it is fairly flexible and has a very soft hand, in spite of its excellent
mechanical properties.
TenCate Millenia is
extremely strong, is
highly breathable and
has moisture wicking
properties
TenCate Millenia is extremely strong, is highly breathable and has

moisture wicking properties. This means that the fabric, when
incorporated in firefighters turnout gear, transports droplets of sweat
away from the surface of the wearers skin to the outside of the fabric
where it can evaporate. As a result, the wearer feels dry and
comfortable and his or her heat stress level is reduced.
In addition, the fabric

can not be penetrated
by blood
In addition, the fabric can not be penetrated by blood, and therefore

it protects the wearer from contracting diseases which are transmitted
by blood. This property is of particular importance to firefighters, who
may come into contact with injured people when they tend to a fire.
PBI fibre has excellent thermal stability. It has a high melting point,
it does not burn in air, it does not melt or drip, and it retains its
strength and flexibility after exposure to a flame.
FABRIC TREATMENTS
HeiQ has developed a

new fabric treatment,
called Glider, which
helps to reduce friction
between the fabric to
which it is applied and
the skin of the wearer
of a garment made
from the fabric
HEIQ HAS DEVELOPED A NEW FABRIC TREATMENT

CALLED GLIDER
HeiQa producer of high performance textile finishes based in
Switzerlandhas developed a new fabric treatment which helps to
reduce friction between the fabric to which it is applied and the skin
of the wearer of a garment made from the fabric.
The treatment, called Glider, is best suited for use on fabrics for
sportswearparticularly those made from cotton, nylon and polyester.
However, it is also suitable for use on fabrics for other garments
which are worn close to the skin or for garments which are worn
during physical activity. Such garments include shapewear and
workwear.
13
During physical activity

friction can result in
increased levels of
moisture, leading to skin
irritation, blisters and
discomfort, and hence
lower athletic
performance
When a person wearing a traditional sportswear garment participates

in physical activity, friction between the garment and the skin can
cause the skin to heat up.
However, treating the

fabric with Glider
reduces the amount of
friction and so the wearer
feels comfortable for
longer
When a fabric treated with Glider is used to manufacture a garment,

the treatment results in a reduction in the amount of friction between
the garment and the wearers skin.
This results in increased levels of moisture on the skin which can lead
to skin irritation and blisters.
As a result, the wearer experiences discomfort and his or her athletic
performance is decreased.
As a result, the wearer of the garment feels more comfortable for a

longer period of time, even if he or she is participating in physical
activity.
The treatment does not

compromise a fabrics
other properties
When the treatment is applied to a fabric, it does not compromise any

of the fabrics other properties, such as its colour fastness, handle or
resistance to pilling.
In addition, the treatment

complies with Oeko-Tex
Standard 100
In addition, the treatment complies with Oeko-Tex Standard 100,

which certifies that it does not contain any substances that are
hazardous to human health or the environment.
HUNTSMAN TEXTILE EFFECTS HAS DEVELOPED A

NEW FABRIC TREATMENT CALLED EVERGLIDE
Huntsman Textile Effects
Huntsman Textile Effectsa Singapore-based producer of chemicals
has developed a new fabric and dye productshas developed a new fabric treatment which helps
treatment, called EverGlide, to reduce friction between the fabric to which it is applied and the
which helps to reduce fric- skin of the wearer of a garment made from the fabric.
tion between the fabric to
which it is applied and the The treatment, called EverGlide, is suitable for use in the manufacture
skin of the wearer of a gar- of a wide range of sportswearparticularly cycle shorts, equestrian
ment made from the fabric trousers, sports underwear and gym wear.
During physical activity
friction can result in
increased levels of
moisture, leading to skin
irritation, blisters and
discomfort, and hence
lower athletic
performance
When a person wearing a traditional sportswear garment participates

in physical activity, friction between the garment and the skin can
cause the skin to heat up.
But treating the fabric

with EverGlide reduces
the amount of friction
But when the garment is made from a fabric treated with EverGlide,
the amount of friction between the garment and the wearers skin is
reduced.
14
This results in increased levels of moisture on the skin which can lead
to skin irritation and blisters.
As a result, the wearer experiences discomfort and his or her athletic
performance is decreased.
Also, EverGlide provides

the fabric with moisture
wicking properties which
help to prevent the
garment from becoming
saturated with sweat
Also, EverGlide provides the fabric with moisture wicking

properties.
These properties help to prevent the garment from becoming saturated
with the wearers sweat, which can cause the wearer to suffer from
chafing and post-exercise chill.
As a result, the wearer feels Because of the fabrics moisture wicking properties, the wearer feels
more comfortable for
more comfortable for longer periods of time, even if he or she is
longer periods of time
participating in strenuous physical activity.
Tanatex has developed

two new water repellent
fabric treatments
which are free from
fluorocarbons
TANATEX HAS DEVELOPED TWO NEW WATER

REPELLENT FABRIC TREATMENTS WHICH ARE FREE
FROM FLUOROCARBONS
Tanatexa Netherlands-based producer of chemicals for textile
treatmentshas developed two new water repellent fabric treatments
which are free from fluorocarbons.
Fluorocarbons are used widely in treatments which provide fabrics
with water repellency properties.
Fluorocarbons release
substances which are
thought to be harmful
to the environment
However, they release substances which are thought to be harmful

to the environmentsuch as perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA),
perfluorooctane sulfonate (PFOS) and fluorotelomer alcohol (FTOH).
Also, fluorocarbons are known to be bioaccumulative in humans.
One of the treatments is

for use on fabrics manufactured from yarns made
from synthetic fibres
One of the treatments, called Baygard WRS, has been designed

specifically for use on fabrics manufactured from yarns produced from
synthetic fibres. The treatment is highly durable but does not
compromise the handle of the fabric to which it is applied.
while the other is for use

on fabrics manufactured
from yarns made from
cotton or cotton blends
The other treatment, called Baygard WRC, has been designed

specifically for use on fabrics manufactured from yarns produced
from cotton, or yarns made from a blend of cotton and synthetic
fibres.
The treatments can be

used on fabrics for a
range of applications
The treatments are suitable for use in the manufacture of fabrics for
outdoor clothing and sportswear, as well as technical fabrics such as
awnings, boat covers and upholstery for outdoor furniture.
FIBRES AND YARNS FOR PERFORMANCE APPAREL
Teijin Frontier has

developed a high
performance stretch yarn
called Solotex OO
TEIJIN FRONTIER HAS DEVELOPED A HIGH

PERFORMANCE STRETCH YARN CALLED SOLOTEX OO
Teijin Frontiera Japan-based producer of performance fibres and a
division of Teijin Grouphas developed a high performance stretch
yarn called Solotex OO.
15
to meet growing demand

for stretch yarns with higher
levels of performance
The company developed the new yarn in order to meet growing demand
for stretch yarns which have higher levels of performance than standard
stretch yarns.
Solotex OO is made using

Solotex PTT fibre and
Roica polyurethane fibre
Solotex OO is made using Teijin Frontiers Solotex polytrimethylene

terephthalate (PTT) fibre and Asahi Kaseis Roica polyurethane
fibre.
Solotex PTT fibre has excellent stretch and recovery properties and a soft touch and
feel, and Roica is an elastane
fibre with excellent stretch
and recovery properties
Solotex PTT fibre has a spring-like molecular structure. As a result, it

has excellent stretch and recovery properties. It also has a soft and
supple touch and feel.
Roica is a spandex (elastane) fibre which also has excellent stretch and
recovery properties.
Garments made from fabrics Fabrics made from Solotex OO have excellent stretch properties and
therefore garments made from such fabrics are very comfortable to
containing Solotex OO are
wear.
comfortable to wear
Solotex OO can be modified
to provide a number of
optional capabilities
Furthermore, Solotex OO can be modified to provide a number of

optional capabilitiesincluding absorbency, non-translucency, quick
drying properties, thermal insulation and ultraviolet (UV) shielding.
Teijin Frontier aims to

increase its sales of
Solotex OO and develop its
business in the apparel
market
In the future, Teijin Frontier aims to increase its sales of Solotex OO

and develop its business in the apparel market.
Figure 1
Cross-section of
Solotex OO
Source: Teijin
Frontier
NEW MATERIALS FOR SPORTS EQUIPMENT
NSP has developed a new

range of surfboards and
paddleboards made from
coconut husk fibres
16
NSP HAS DEVELOPED A NEW RANGE OF SURFBOARDS

AND PADDLEBOARDS MADE FROM COCONUT HUSK
FIBRES
NSPa company based in Australia which specialises in surf
productshas developed a new range of surfboards and paddleboards
which are made from coconut husk fibres. The range is called
Coco Mat.
The range is manufactured

using NSPs Coco Mat
Technology
Surfboards and paddleboards in the Coco Mat range are manufactured

using NSPs Coco Mat Technology. The company claims that the
technology is the worlds first and only method of constructing
surfboards and paddleboards from natural coconut husk fibres.
NSP harvests coconut husk

fibres from self-sustaining
coconut trees located near
its manufacturing facilities,
and the fibres require
minimal processing
NSP harvests coconut husk fibres from self-sustaining crops of

coconut trees which are located near to the companys manufacturing
facilities in Australia.
The boards have an EPS

core encased in two fibreglass layers with a coconut
fibre layer sandwiched between them and all layers are
bonded with epoxy adhesive
The boards have an expanded polystyrene (EPS) foam core encased

in two layers of fibreglass, which have a layer of coconut fibres
sandwiched between them.
Epoxy adhesive2 is injected into all the layers in order to bond them
together.
Coconut husk fibres absorb

less epoxy than other materials so the boards are lighter
than traditional boards
Coconut husk fibres absorb less epoxy adhesive than materials which
are used in the manufacture of traditional surfboards and
paddleboards, such as carbon fibre and fibreglass. As a result, boards
in the Coco Mat range are much lighter than traditional boards.
Also, coconut husk

fibre has a high
strength-to-weight ratio
Also, coconut husk fibre has a high strength-to-weight ratio. As a

result, Coco Mat boards are among the lightest and strongest on the
market and, according to NSP, they offer a responsive, fluid ride
with great flex characteristics.
The boards are

available in a variety
of models and sizes
The Coco Mat surfboards and paddleboards are available in a variety

of models and sizes. Prices range from US$365 for the Coco Mat Fish
surfboard to US$1,570 for the Coco Mat SUP (stand-up paddleboard).
A video showing the surfboard can be found online
A video which shows a Coco Mat surfboard in use can be found by

visiting: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QnxEHc7npos.
The fibres are described as random discontinuous fibres and require

minimal processing.
PERFORMANCE APPAREL FOR WATER SPORTS
Two wetsuits which help to

prevent the wearer from
being attacked by sharks
have been developed
SHARK ATTACK MITIGATION SYSTEMS (SAMS) AND

SCIENTISTS FROM THE OCEANS INSTITUTE AT THE
UNIVERSITY OF WESTERN AUSTRALIA HAVE JOINTLY
DEVELOPED TWO NEW WETSUITS WHICH HELP TO
PREVENT SHARK ATTACKS
Shark Attack Mitigation Systems (SAMS) and scientists from the
Oceans Institute at the University of Western Australia have jointly
developed two new wetsuits which, it is claimed, help to prevent the
wearer from being attacked by sharks3.
Epoxy adhesive is a very strong glue, and is made using a class of synthetic thermosetting polymers
containing epoxide groups.
3
See also Water sports apparel: innovation keeps brands afloat, Performance Apparel Markets, No 43,
2nd quarter 2012.
17
in response to a high
number of fatal attacks
which occurred in 2012
The two parties were prompted to develop the wetsuits in response to

the high number of fatal shark attacks which occurred in the waters
surrounding Western Australia during 2012.
One of the wetsuits, called

Elude, camouflages wearers
as it is covered in a wavy
pattern and is available in
three shade of blue
One of the wetsuits, called Elude, has been designed to camouflage

snorkelers and divers when they are swimming in the sea.
The wetsuit is covered in a wavy pattern and is available in three
different shades of blue.
The wetsuit in the darkest shade of blue is designed for use by

The darkest blue wetsuit is
people who dive up to 15 m below the surface of the sea.
for people diving 15 m below
the sea, the second darkest
The wetsuit in the second darkest shade of blue is designed for use
blue wetsuit is for people
by people who dive up to 5 m below the surface of the sea.
diving 5 m below the sea, and
the lightest blue wetsuit is for
snorkelers who swim across The wetsuit in the lightest shade of blue is designed for use by
snorkelers, who swim across the surface of the sea.
the surface of the sea
The pattern and colour of each Elude wetsuit mimic the appearance of
The pattern and colour of
each wetsuit mimic the seas the sea at a particular depth, and therefore render the wearer of the
appearance at certain depths wetsuit less visible to sharks.
The other wetsuit, called
Diverter, is designed to
deter sharks from
attacking the wearer as it
is covered with a black
and white striped pattern
and stripes are associated
with noxious animals
The other wetsuit, called Diverter, is designed to deter sharks from

attacking the wearer when he or she is swimming in the sea.
The Diverter wetsuit is covered with a black and white striped pattern.
In nature, animals which have striped coats or skins in bold colours
repel potential predators, as the predators associate striped patterns with
noxious animals which should not be eaten. As a result, a person who
wears the Diverter wetsuit is said to repel sharks.
Figure 2
The Diverter wetsuit (left) and three versions of the Elude wetsuit
Source: Shark Attack Mitigation System (SAMS)
18
Each of the designs on the

wetsuits can be applied to
water sports equipment
Each of the designs featured on the Elude wetsuits and the Diverter
wetsuit can be applied to surfboards, diving cages, kayaks and other
equipment for water sports.
The wetsuits cost A$495

(US$466) each
The wetsuits cost A$495 (US$466) each and are available for purchase
via www.radiator.com, an online store which sells surf wear and diving
gear.
SAMS develops apparel and

water sports products which
protect users from being
attacked by sharks, while the
Oceans Institute specialises
in marine biology
SAMS is a company based in Perth, Western Australia, which was

established specifically to develop apparel and water sports products
that would help to protect users from being attacked by sharks.
The Oceans Institute is a research department at the University of
Western Australia which specialises in marine biology.
SMART CLOTHING
Hexoskin has developed a

new T-shirt, also called
Hexoskin, which is fitted
with sensors that can
analyse movement,
breathing patterns and
heart rate activity
HEXOSKIN HAS DEVELOPED A NEW T-SHIRT FITTED

WITH SENSORS WHICH CAN ANALYSE MOVEMENT,
BREATHING PATTERNS AND HEART RATE ACTIVITY
Hexoskina Canada-based technology companyhas developed a new
T-shirt, also called Hexoskin, which is fitted with sensors that can
analyse movement, breathing patterns and heart rate activity. The
T-shirt is available for men and women.
Figure 3
Image showing Hexoskin T-shirt for men
Source: Hexoskin
The T-shirt is made from a

fabric which has moisture
management properties and
thermoregulating properties
The T-shirt is made from a high-tech breathable fabric which

has moisture management properties and thermoregulating properties.
It can be worn under any type of sportswear, and is machine
washable.
19
The T-shirt has sensors

which measure the
wearers vital signs and a
device which captures such
data from the sensors
The T-shirt has a number of sensors which measure the wearers vital
signs, including: heart rate and heart rate variability; breathing rate
and breathing volume; step count; activity intensity and calories
burned; heart rate recovery; and estimated maximal oxygen
consumption (VO2). It also has a device which captures such data
from the sensors.
The device is attached to

the sensors using a wire
The device sits in a pocket on the side of the T-shirt and is attached
to the sensors using a wire.
and streams the data

from the sensors wirelessly
to an online account
The device streams the data captured from the sensors wirelessly to
an online account which can be accessed via a mobile device in real
time.
Alternatively, the device

can store the data until the
data can be transferred
If wireless capabilities are unavailable, then the device can store the
data until the user is able to transfer the data to a mobile device using
a USB cable.
The T-shirt uses dual

band sensor technology
and takes precise
readings of the wearers
breathing volume using
two magnetic sensors
The T-shirt uses dual band sensor technology which ensures that the
readings of the wearers cardiac performance are of high quality.
It also takes precise readings of the wearers breathing volume using
two magnetic sensors which measure the shape of the body when the
wearer breathes.
The company has

developed an app which
can be used by coaches
to monitor athletes
The company has developed an app4, called Hexoskin Team, which

works in conjunction with the T-shirt.
The T-shirt can measure

levels of stress during the
day
As the T-shirt is able to pick up activity patterns, breathing patterns

and heart rate variability, it can measure levels of stress during the
day.
and can monitor the

quality of the wearers
sleep
It can also monitor the quality of the wearers sleep using a

combination of movement, breathing, and heart sensors which provide
information about sleep states.
However, the company

is developing further
algorithms for monitoring
sleep with several partners
However, the company is developing further algorithms for monitoring

sleep in collaboration with the Biomedical Engineering department at
cole Polytechnique de Montral (Montreal Polytechnic), Hpital
Rivire-des-Prairies and other clinical partners.
The app can be used by coaches to monitor athletes during training

routines.
An app is a software application designed to run on smartphones and other mobile devices. It is available
through an application distribution platform, which is typically operated by the owner of the mobile phone
operating system, such as the Apple App Store, BlackBerry App World, Google Play and Windows Phone
Marketplace.
20
Currently, the company

is raising funds to launch
the T-shirt on to the
market via a campaign on
a crowd funding website
Currently, the company is attempting to raise funds in order to launch

the T-shirt on to the market via a campaign on Indiegogoa USA-based
crowd funding5 website. Customers can purchase Hexoskin T-shirts via
the Indiegogo website, and the company will begin to deliver the
T-shirts to customers from March 2014.
A video showing Hexoskin

can be found online
A video showing how Hexoskin works can be found on the Internet by

visiting: http://youtu.be/sjcfHGaZ18Q.
SPORTSWEAR
Nike has developed a new

range of sportswear for
women called Nike Pro
Elite Knit
The garments have a warp

knitted construction which
provides them with excellent
stretch properties, and each
garment is knitted as a single
piece so they do not contain
seams which cause discomfort
NIKE HAS DEVELOPED A NEW RANGE OF WOMENS

SPORTSWEAR CALLED NIKE PRO ELITE
The USA-based sportswear company Nike has developed a new
range of sportswear for women.
The range, called Nike Pro Elite Knit, is manufactured using warp
knitting technology and includes two styles of tank top and a pair of
leggings.
The garments have a warp knitted construction which provides them
with excellent stretch properties.
Also, each garment in the range is knitted as a single piece, rather than
as a number of panels which are then stitched together. As a result, the
garments do not contain seams which could rub against the wearers
skin during physical activity and cause discomfort.
Figure 4
Tank top from the Nike Pro Elite Knit range
Figure 5
Leggings from the Nike Pro Elite Knit range
Source: Nike
Source: Nike
Crowd funding is the practice of funding a project or venture by raising many small amounts of money from a
large number of people, typically via the Internet.
21
A thermodynamic map was

used to determine which
areas of the female body
heat up the most during
exercise, and the garments
were designed with small
holes in these areas to allow
air to circulate through them
In developing the garments, designers from Nike studied a

thermodynamic map of the female body in order to determine the
parts of the body which heat up the most during exercise.
The holes can also be used

as a visual guide to check
the alignment of the body
Furthermore, the holes are arranged in straight lines to enable the

wearer to use them as a visual guide and check the alignment of her
body in a mirror during physical activity.
Nike has developed a new

waterproof sports jacket
for golfers
NIKE HAS DEVELOPED A NEW WATERPROOF SPORTS

JACKET FOR GOLFERS
Nikea USA-based sportswear companyhas developed a new
waterproof sports jacket for golfers, called Nike Hyperadapt
Storm-FIT.
As a result, the areas of the garments which cover these parts of the
body have been designed with a number of small holes which allow
air to circulate through them, thereby keeping the wearer cool during
physical activity.
Golfers often wear jackets

Nike decided to develop the jacket after learning that golfers often
which are one size too big so wear waterproof jackets which are one size larger than their actual size
they do not feel restricted
so that they do not feel restricted when swinging a golf club.
However, excess fabric
from a larger garment
can distract a golfer
However, the excess fabric from garments which are too large can
distract the golfer when he or she is swinging a golf club, and cause
the golfer to feel uncomfortable.
The Nike Hyperadapt

Storm-FIT jacket is
highly flexible
In contrast to regular waterproof jackets, the Nike Hyperadapt

Storm-FIT jacket is highly flexible and therefore eliminates the need
for the golfer to wear a jacket which is too big.
Its seams are pressure

welded so the inside of
the jacket is smooth
The seams of the lining of the jacket are pressure welded, which
eliminates the need for sewing. As a result, the inside of the jacket is
smooth and the risk of the golfer experiencing discomfort due to
bulky seams is reduced.
Also, the arms and yoke of

the jacket have a four-way
stretch construction to
maximise the golfers
mobility, and the arms
have adjustable cuffs
In addition, the arms and yoke of the jacket have a four-way stretch
construction, which maximises the golfers mobility when he or she
is performing a swing.
22
The arms also features adjustable cuffs, which further enhances the
comfort of the jacket for the golfer.
Waterproof breathable fabrics
Waterproof breathable fabrics:

demand for comfort is driving
innovation
SUMMARY
Waterproof breathable fabricswhich protect against rain, wind and snow while allowing perspiration
vapour to escapeare among the most technically advanced in the performance apparel market. And
they have become even more high-tech as a result of developments in fields as diverse as biomimicry,
silicon-based technology (SBT) and plasma technology.
The market for waterproof breathable fabrics is poised to enjoy robust growth as combined demand
from the outdoor wear, personal protective equipment (PPE), military and other segments is forecast
to grow by an average of 5% per annum between 2011 and 2016.
A major beneficiary of this growth will be W L Gore & Associates, which is credited with having
created the waterproof breathable category of fabrics in the 1970s with its Gore-Tex PTFE
(polytetrafluoroethylene) membrane.
However, many have questioned whether W L Gore & Associates can maintain its stronghold in the
marketplace as an increasing number of new products are commercialised. In particular, a number
of suppliers of outdoor fabrics and apparelincluding Columbia Sportswear, Polartec and Mountain
Hardwearhave introduced products which claim superior levels of breathability.
The introduction of functional alternatives to Gore-Tex has led to a significant increase in the range
of choice for consumers. It has also led to greater segmentation in the market, as technologies have
been developed for specific end uses and weather conditions.
Competition in the industry seems set to intensify, leading to an increase in the tempo of innovation
as companies strive to create garments which offer even higher levels of comfort and which can be
produced in an environmentally friendly manner.
INTRODUCTION
Waterproof breathable
fabrics prevent moisture
in the outside environment
reaching the skin while
allowing moisture vapour
to escape, thereby helping
to maintain wearer comfort
Waterproof breathable fabrics are designed to prevent moisture in the

outside environment from reaching the skin while, at the same time,
allowing moisture vapour in the form of perspiration to escape.
This functionality plays a critical role in maintaining wearer comfort
during outdoor activities in wet conditions because wet skin can lead
to chilling, clamminess and chafing.
23
Such fabrics comprise microscopic pores too small for

liquid moisture to penetrate
but large enough for moisture vapour to pass through
A large number of waterproof breathable fabrics have been

commercialised and most are based on the same principle. In general,
such fabrics comprise millions of microscopic pores which are too
small for liquid moisture to penetrate but are large enough for
moisture vapour to pass through.
In the past, fabrics offering

wind and rain protection did
not breathe, making them
uncomfortable to wear
In the past, fabrics which offered protection from wind and rain did
not breathe and this made them uncomfortable to wear. Consequently,
manufacturers were faced with the challenge of producing a material
with waterproofness and moisture permeability properties.
However, significant strides

have been made to improve
the functionality of waterproof breathable garments
However, thanks to significant strides in improving the functionality

of waterproof breathable garments, consumers no longer have to
choose between garments which are fully waterproof but less
breathable, and those which are breathable but less waterproof.
DEVELOPMENT OF WATERPROOF BREATHABLE

CONSTRUCTIONS
Attempts to create
waterproof barriers
in clothing date back
centuries
Attempts to create waterproof barriers in clothing date back centuries.

The Incas, for example, are known to have smeared sap from rubber
plants over their clothing to repel water. Vikings and Inuits used fish
oil while Saxon tribes used animal fat to achieve the same protection.
In modern times, one of the In the more modern era, one of the earliest waterproof fabrics to be
earliest waterproof fabrics to developed was a rubber coated material, called Macintosh, which was
be developed was Macintosh named after a Scottish chemist, Charles Macintosh.
When Macintosh made its
debut in the early 1820s,
rubber-coated fabrics were
widely available but
suffered major drawbacks
When Macintosh made its debut in the early 1820s, rubber-coated

fabrics were already widely available. However, they suffered major
drawbacks. They became stiff, and tended to melt in hot weather. In
addition, they tended to have an unpleasant smell. Mr Macintosh
sought to overcome these drawbacks by treating the rubber in such a
way that it became stronger and more elastic.
In 1879 Thomas Burberry

invented a waterproof
fabric for raincoats called
gabardine
Further advancements in waterproof technology were made towards

the end of the 1800s. In 1879 Thomas Burberrya former apprentice
to a country draper in Englandinvented a waterproof fabric for
raincoats called gabardine. The material was constructed from cotton
threads which were waterproofed before weaving.
Gabardines were
commonly worn by
British servicemen during
the Second World War
At the time of its introduction, gabardine was considered to be the

most breathable waterproof material available. Garments made from
the materialwhich became known as gabardineswere commonly
worn by British servicemen during the Second World War.
24
In the 1930s the Shirley

Institute developed Ventile
cotton fabric
In the late 1930s, scientists at the Shirley Institute in Manchester, UK,

developed a cotton fabric, known as Ventile, which had a specially
designed weave.
Cotton fibres in the fabric

swell when wet to stop the
passage of water
Cotton fibres in the fabric swell when they come into contact with
water, and thereby prevent further passage of water through the
fabrics interstices.
Uniforms made from

Ventile fabric were worn by
RAF fighter pilots during
the Second World War
Ventile fabric was used extensively in uniforms worn by British

servicemen during the Second World War. Such uniforms helped to
provide protection for British Royal Air Force (RAF) fighter pilots
who were forced to bail out of their aircraft into the sea.
The 1930s also saw the

development of synthetic
polymers which had a huge
impact on the industry
The 1930s also saw the development of synthetic polymers, which had
a huge impact on the outdoor wear industry as these materials allowed
clothing manufacturers to make high performance waterproof garments
at a relatively low cost.
In the 1950s vinyl and plastic In the 1950s new waterproof materials such as vinyl and plastic found
were used in rainwear
a natural home in rainwear.
In the 1970s the market
was transformed by the
introduction of Gore-Tex
In the 1970s the market for waterproof materials was transformed by

the introduction of Gore-Tex, a waterproof fabric which was highly
breathable.
Today, Gore-Tex is a
highly recognised brand
Today, Gore-Tex is one of the most recognisable brands in the

world.
Gore-Tex is made by
W L Gore & Associates,
a company set up by
Wilbert Gore who left
DuPont to start his own
business and developed a
porous film based on Teflon
Gore-Tex is manufactured by W L Gore & Associates, a company set

up by Wilbert Lee Gore and his wife, Genevieve Walton Gore.
Mr Gore had previously been a research supervisor at DuPont in the
1950s. While in this post, he had tried but failed to convince the
company of the commercial potential of Teflon. He therefore left
DuPont to start his own business and developed a porous film based
on Teflon.
Gore-Tex solved the problem

of combining waterproofness
and breathability, but
garments became contaminated from perspiration
From the outset, the use of Gore-Tex in garments solved the problem
of combining waterproofness and breathability.
However, this problem was

addressed in subsequent
generations of Gore-Tex
This problem was addressed in subsequent generations of Gore-Tex,

introduced in the 1980s and 1990s and, in more recent years,
W L Gore & Associates has introduced more refined versions of the
original Gore-Tex.
However, the first generation of garments made from the material

often became contaminated from perspiration.
25
THE MARKET FOR WATERPROOF BREATHABLE FABRICS

The market for waterproof
breathable fabrics is forecast
to grow by nearly 5% a year
between 2011 and 2016 to
reach 376.5 mn metres
According to the market research firm Frost & Sullivan, the global
market for waterproof breathable fabrics amounted to 297 mn in
2011 and is forecast to reach 376.5 mn metres by 2016, representing
an average growth rate of nearly 5% a year over the five-year period
(Figure 1).
The largest single

application for waterproof
breathable fabrics in 2011
was sports and leisure wear
with a 77.6% share
The largest single application for waterproof breathable fabrics is, by

far, sports and leisure wear. Indeed, in 2011 this sector accounted for an
estimated 77.6% of the total amount of waterproof breathable fabrics
produced (Figure 2). However, this market is expected to decline as a
proportion of the total as it approaches maturity.
Figure 1
Global waterproof breathable fabrics market, 2008-16

(mn metres)
400
300
276.9
277.0
282.2
2008
2009
2010
297.0
312.3
328.5
343.5
376.5
359.7
200
100
0
2011
2012
2013
2014
2015
2016
NB: figures for 2012-16 are estimates

Source: Frost & Sullivan.
Figure 2
Global waterproof breathable fabrics market

by end-use application, 2011
Sports and leisure
77.6%
Othersa 4.6%
Medical 6.0%
Personal protective
11.8%
a
Includes construction, personal care, tents, sleeping bags, automotive upholstery and luggage
Source: Frost & Sullivan
26
Since the 1970s, the market

for waterproof breathable
fabrics has been dominated
by W L Gore & Associates
Since the late 1970s, the market for waterproof breathable fabrics has
been dominated by W L Gore & Associates. This domination has
caused much anger among other players in the performance apparel
industry.
In 2010 Columbia
Sportswear filed a
complaint with the
European Commission
accusing W L Gore of
anti-competitive practices
In 2010 USA-based Columbia Sportswear, a supplier of active outdoor

apparel, filed a complaint with the European Commission which
accused W L Gore & Associates of anti-competitive practices1.
According to Columbia, W L Gore & Associates was engaging in
unfair business practices, intimidating footwear and glove licensees
into loyalty and violating antitrust laws by excluding the competition.
W L Gore denied the

allegations and said it
offered the best products
W L Gore & Associates denied the allegations and said that it was
successful in the market because it offered the best and most
innovative products.
WATERPROOF BREATHABILITY IN PERFORMANCE APPAREL
A fabric labelled
waterproof must provide
sustained water protection
in very wet conditions
WATERPROOFNESS
Waterproofness is defined as the ability of a fabric to prevent
penetration through its construction by water. A fabric which is
labelled waterproof must provide sustained water protection in very
wet conditions.
A waterproof fabric is
usually tightly woven and
then coated or laminated
A fabric described as waterproof is usually a tightly woven material

which has been either coated with or laminated to a polymeric film to
prevent water droplets from penetrating the pores in the fabric.
A waterproof garment is
designed so that all
passages through which
water can enter, including
seams, are blocked
A waterproof garment is designed so that all passages through which

water can enter from the outside are blocked. Also, the backs of seams
in a waterproof garment are sealed by taping them, in order to prevent
water seeping through holes created in the fabric during the sewing of
the garmenta process known as strikethrough.
Seams can be sonically sealed Seams can also be sonically sealed, rather than stitched, to prevent
to prevent strikethrough
strikethrough.
A water repellent fabric
differs from a waterproof
fabric in that it resists
water penetration by
forcing the water to bead
on its outer surface
WATER REPELLENCY
A water repellent, or shower resistant, fabric is one that has been
treated with a water repellent finish which resists water penetration by
forcing the water to bead on the fabrics outer surface.
A water repellent fabric is therefore not the same as a waterproof
fabricgiven that waterproofness is the ability of a fabric to prevent
penetration through its construction by water.
See also W L Gore has been accused of violating EU competition laws and is being investigated
by the US Federal Trade Commission, Business update, Performance Apparel Markets, No 37,
2nd quarter 2011, page 94.
27
Garments made from water

repellent fabrics can only
withstand light precipitation
Breathability is important
for comfort and is the degree
to which a fabric, coating or
film allows moisture vapour
to pass through it
Garments, such as conventional soft shell2 jackets, which are made

from water repellent fabrics can withstand light precipitation but not
torrential downpours.
BREATHABILITY
Breathability, or moisture vapour permeability, is considered to be one
of the most important factors for comfort in performance apparel.
Breathability is defined as the degree to which a fabric, coating or film
allows moisture vapour to pass through its construction.
Moisture vapour can

pass through a fabric
in two ways
Moisture vapour can pass through a fabric in two ways, namely:
Breathability is an
important consideration
for maintaining the bodys
microclimate
If a garment can not breathe, then vapour and excess heat from the
body can not escape. Breathability is an important consideration for
maintaining the bodys microclimatethe temperature and humidity
of the area next to the skin.
The body tries to keep its

core temperature at 37C
and any extra heat produced
must be eliminated
The human body strives to keep its core temperature at 37C (98.6F)
and any extra heat producedfor example during physical activity
must be eliminated in order for the body to maintain a comfortable
temperature.
If the normal heat loss

mechanisms are not
sufficient, the body
perspires to achieve cooling
through evaporation
Elimination of the extra heat is normally achieved through three

processes: radiation, conduction and convection. During strenuous
physical activity, however, these mechanisms may not prove sufficient.
Consequently, the body perspires and excess heat is eliminated through
the cooling effect of evaporation.
During strenuous exercise,

the body can produce two
litres of perspiration in
one hour
During moderate exertion, the body produces about half a litre of

perspiration in one hour.
If perspiration can not

escape, then wet fabric will
cling to the skin and this
can cause discomfort
If perspirationin the form of moisture vapourcondenses on the

inside of the fabric and can not escape into the atmosphere, then wet
fabric will cling to the skin and this can cause discomfort. In cold
weather this process may lead to chilling when activity is stopped.
ventilationwhereby moisture vapour passes directly through the

pores in the fabric; and
solid state diffusionwhereby moisture vapour condenses on the
fabrics inner surface and is then pushed through to the fabrics
outer surface from which it evaporates (vapour to liquid to
vapour).
During strenuous exercise, it can produce up to two litres of

perspiration in one hour.
A soft shell is an outerwear garment which performs the functions of two or more garments. It is soft to
the touch, resistant to wind and rain, and highly breathable. A hard shell, by comparison, is an outerwear
garment which protects the wearer from inclement weather. It is typically made from a tough and
abrasion-resistant material such as nylon.
28
Thanks to technological
advances, the rate at
which waterproof
breathable fabrics can
transfer perspiration
vapour has more than
quadrupled since the
early 1990s
Thanks to technological advances, the rate at which waterproof

breathable fabrics can transfer perspiration vapour has more than
quadrupled since the early 1990s and over the past ten years
innovation has been significant. However, many waterproof breathable
garments are still perceived as trapping perspiration when exertion
levels are high. Fabric manufacturers are addressing this problem by
putting much effort into making further improvements in membrane
and laminate technology.
TESTING STANDARDS FOR WATERPROOFNESS, WATER

REPELLENCY AND BREATHABILITY
The waterproofness of a
fabric is determined by the
amount of pressure which
can be applied to the
fabric before a certain
amount of water is pushed
through
WATERPROOFNESS
The waterproofness of a fabric is determined by the amount of
pressure which can be applied to the fabric before water is pushed
through it. The more a fabric resists the entry of water under pressure,
the more waterproof it is said to be. The amount of pressure can be
measured in pounds per square inch (psi or lb/in2) or kilopascals (kPa),
or it can be expressed as the height in millimetres of a column of
water or hydrostatic head3.
One major company has

said that its fabrics must
be able to resist a pressure
of at least 25 psi to be
labelled waterproof
One major company has stated that, in order to be labelled waterproof,

its fabrics must be able to resist a pressure of at least 25 psi. By way
of comparison, the pressure exerted by wind-driven rain is equivalent
to about 2 psi while the pressure exerted by hurricane-force rain is
roughly 10 psi.
However, this appears to

be stringent in comparison
with official standards,
including the European
standard for protective
clothing which provides
protection against rain
However, this requirement appears to be quite stringent in comparison

with official standards. The European standard for protective clothing
which provides protection against rain4, for example, defines three
categories of garments where lower pressures are permissible, as
follows.
The first category includes garments which are waterproof when
subjected to a minimum hydrostatic head of 80 cm, which is
equivalent to about 1.1 psi, before certain defined pre-treatments5.
A hydrostatic head is a way of describing the pressure applied to a material in terms of the height of an
equivalent column of water. Because the pressure exerted is determined solely by the height of the column, it
is possible to use this figure to quantify how waterproof a fabric is. For example, a fabric which can
withstand a hydrostatic head of one metre will resist the passage of water until the pressure of the water
exceeds this value.
4
BS EN 343:2003+A1: 2007, Protective clothing. Protection against rain.
The pre-treatments are defined as: five laundering cycles; 5,000 abrasions with a standard worsted fabric;
and 100,000 flexes or 9,000 flexes carried out on the lines of a Schildknecht flex tester or a crumple tester
respectively.
29
The second category includes garments which are waterproof when

subjected to a minimum hydrostatic head of 80 cm (1.1 psi) after
the pre-treatments.
The third category includes garments which are waterproof when
subjected to a minimum hydrostatic head of 1.3 metres (1.9 psi)
after the pre-treatments.
Experience at Leeds
University suggests that the
pressure should be at least
10 psi to ensure durability
However, practical experience at the University of Leeds in the UK

suggests that a minimum hydrostatic head of 7 metres (10 psi) is
required after pre-treatments if a fabric is to remain waterproof for the
lifetime of the garment.
Table 1: Waterproof ratings

Waterproof rating
(mm H2O)a
Resistance provided
0-5,000
No resistance or some resistance to moisture
6,000-10,000
Rainproof and waterproof under light pressure
11,000-15,000
Rainproof and waterproof except under high pressure
16,000-20,000
Rainproof and waterproof under high pressure
>20,000
Rainproof and waterproof under very high pressure
a
Hydrostatic head (see page 29).
Source: www.evo.com.
What it can withstand

Light rain, dry snow, no pressure
Light rain, average snow, light pressure
Moderate rain, average snow, light pressure
Heavy rain, wet snow, some pressure
Heavy rain, wet snow, high pressure
Table 2: Waterproof ratings of selected waterproof breathable fabrics
Fabric
Texapore Hyproof O3
eVent
Gore-Tex Paclite Shell
Gore-Tex Performance Shell
Gore-Tex Pro Shell
MemBrain Strata
Pertex Shield+
Helly Tech
PreCip
a
Hydrostatic head (see page 29).
Source: authors own research.
Water repellency is tested

by a so-called spray test
This measures the area
of the fabric which
maintains its beading
properties and does not
become saturated
30
Company
Jack Wolfskin
General Electric
W L Gore & Associates
Marmot
Mitsui & Co
Helly Hansen
Marmot
Waterproof rating
(mm H2O)a
40,000
30,000
28,000
28,000
28,000
20,000
20,000
15,000
15,000
WATER REPELLENCY
The water repellency of a fabric is tested using a so-called spray
test.
This measures the area of the fabric which maintains its beading
properties and does not become saturated.
The results are shown as the percentage of the fabric which still beads
up after a given number of washing treatments. For example, a result
of 80/20 would indicate that 80% of the fabric still beads up after 20
washings.
A large number of tests

are used to measure
breathability, but the results
from different test methods
are not directly comparable
BREATHABILITY
A large number of tests are available for measuring breathability, but
the results from different test methods are not directly comparable. In
order to make a reliable comparison between the breathability of one
fabric and that of another, therefore, it is important that both fabrics
are tested using the same method under the same conditions.
Breathability is determined
by calculating the moisture
vapour transfer rate
(MVTR)
Breathability can be determined by calculating the moisture vapour

transfer rate (MVTR)which is the rate at which a fabric allows
moisture vapour to pass through to the outside air in a given amount
of time.
Moisture vapour transfer

increases when the
atmosphere outside the
clothing is cooler and
drier
When the temperature and humidity are greater on the inside of

clothing than on the outside, moisture vapour will attempt to move to
the outside. Therefore, moisture vapour transfer increases when the
atmosphere outside the clothing is cooler and drier. When the
atmosphere is hotter and more humid, by contrast, moisture vapour
transfer decreases.
The higher the MVTR,

the more breathable the
fabric
The MVTR is measured by determining the amount of moisture

vapour in grams which passes through 1 m2 of fabric over a 24-hour
period. The higher the MVTR, the more breathable the fabric.
Table 3: Breathability ratings of selected waterproof breathable fabrics
Fabric
Company
Texapore Hyproof O3
Jack Wolfskin
Gore-Tex Pro Shell
eVent
General Electric
MemBrain Strata
Marmot
Pertex Shield+
Mitsui & Co
Gore-Tex Performance Shell
Gore-Tex Paclite Shell
Helly Tech
Helly Hansen
PreCip
Marmot
a
Moisture vapour transfer rate (see above).
Source: authors own research.
Breathability rating
(g/m2/24 hours)a
30,000
25,000
22,000
20,000
20,000
17,000
15,000
15,000
12,000
Breathability can also be

determined by calculating a
fabrics resistance to evaporative heat transfer (RET)
The breathability of a fabric can also be determined by calculating its

resistance to evaporative heat transfer (RET).
RET values can be used to

express the breathability
of a single fabric or an
entire clothing system
RET values can be used to measure the breathability of an individual

piece of fabric, or an entire clothing system comprising multiple
layers. The total RET value can be calculated by simply adding the
RET values of the individual fabric or clothing layers.
Each layer increases the

RET value and lowers
overall breathability
The RET value of a naked body is zero. As layers of clothing are

added, each layer and the air between these layers boosts the RET
value, thereby decreasing overall breathability.
The lower the RET value, the higher the fabrics breathability.
31
The Hohenstein Institute has The Germany-based Hohenstein Institute has correlated RET values to
correlated RET values to
the physiological comfort of human subjects and has established
physiological comfort ratings various ratings of wear comfort (Table 4).
Table 4: RETa values and wear comfort
RETa value
60 or less
More than 60 but less than or equal to 130
More than 300
a
Resistance to evaporative transfer.
Source: Hohenstein Institute.
Breathability
Very breathable
Very breathable
Breathable
Slightly breathable
Not breathable
Wear comfort
Very good
Good
Satisfactory
Unsatisfactory
Unsatisfactory
WAYS OF ACHIEVING WATERPROOF BREATHABILITY IN

APPAREL
Waterproof breathability is
achieved by using tightly
woven fabrics or adding a
technology
Naturally breathable
fabrics can be made by
tightly weaving them from
microfibres but these
fabrics tend to be heavy
Waterproof breathability in a garment can be achieved by using

tightly woven fabrics or incorporating a waterproof breathable
technology.
TIGHTLY WOVEN FABRICS
A tightly woven fabric can block the penetration of wind or rain from
the outside while allowing moisture vapour from the inside to escape.
Naturally breathable fabrics can be made by tightly weaving them
from microfibres. However, because of their dense weave, these
fabrics tend to be relatively heavy.
Also, such fabrics are not

inherently waterproof
Also, such fabrics are not inherently waterproof. Water can penetrate
in certain conditions, making them unsuitable for use in very wet
weather.
Ripstop fabric is water

repellent, wind resistant
and tear resistant, thanks
to its special construction
Ripstop fabric is water repellent and wind resistant. The fabric is

usually made from nylon or polyester, and is tightly woven with
double threads at regular intervals to prevent tears in the fabric from
spreading. This type of construction gives the fabric a grid-like
appearance.
Conventional waterproof
breathable technologies for
apparel can be broadly
split into two categories
A coating can be thought of
as paint and a laminate as
wallpaper
32
WATERPROOF BREATHABLE TECHNOLOGIES

Conventional waterproof breathable technologies for apparel can be
broadly split into two categories, namely:
coated fabrics; and
laminated fabrics.
A coating can be thought of as paint spread on a wall while a laminate
can be thought of as wallpaper glued to a wall.
Coated fabrics are more

widely used in waterproof
breathable garments than
laminated fabrics as they
are less expensive
Coated fabrics
Coated fabrics are more widely used in waterproof breathable
garments than laminated fabrics as they are less expensive. Indeed,
coated fabrics account for roughly 80% of the total market for
waterproof breathable fabrics. This share could be higher if it were not
for the fact that coated fabrics tend to be less breathable and durable.
A polymer coating is
applied to a tightly woven
abrasion resistant fabric
A coated fabric for a waterproof breathable garment is normally

produced by applying a polymer coating to a tightly woven abrasion
resistant fabric.
The coating is applied to

the face nearest to the skin
by spraying or rolling
The coating is applied to the face of the fabric which is nearest to the
skin, either by spraying or rolling.
A laminated fabric
incorporates a thin
membrane which resists
water penetration and yet
allows the passage of
water vapour
Membranes can be
made from a number
of materials
The main waterproof

breathable fabrics on the
market have a coating or
membrane which is
microporous
Laminated fabrics
A laminated fabric, or laminate6, is formed by attaching a thin
membrane, using an adhesive, to an abrasion-resistant densely woven
fabric made from nylon or polyester.
The membrane resists water penetration and yet allows the passage of
water vapour.
Typically, membranes are made from:
expanded polytetrafluoroethylene7 (ePTFE);

polyurethane films;
polyester films; and
polyethylene.
Coatings and membranes

The main waterproof breathable fabrics on the market today have a
coating or membrane which takes one of the following three forms:
a microporous coating or membrane, whose microscopic pores
allow water vapour, but not liquid, to pass through the fabric;
non-porous
a non-porous, or monolithic, coating or membrane, which is

capable of absorbing moisture vapour from the inside of the fabric
and pushing it through to the outside; or
or a bicomponent which
is a combination of the two
a bicomponent coating or membrane, which offers a combination

of the two.
The term laminate is sometimes used in the waterproof breathable sector to refer to a film or membrane.
However, the strict definition of a laminate in this context is a fabric which comprises two or more layers
bonded together.
7
Expanded polytetrafluoroethylene (ePTFE) is a stretched form of PTFE. PTFE was invented accidentally in
1938 when Roy Plunkett of DuPont was attempting to make a new chlorofluorocarbon (CFC) refrigerant
using tetrafluoroethylene gas. The latter underwent polymerisation in a pressurised storage container because
iron on the inside of the container acted as a catalyst. The process was subsequently patented and PTFE
coating was registered under the name Teflon in 1945. Later the brand became synonymous with non-stick
cookware.
33
In microporous coatings or
membranes, the pores are
bigger than perspiration
vapour molecules but
smaller than raindrops
In microporous coatings or membranes, the individual pores

typically range from 0.1 to 1.0 microns8 in diameter. They are bigger
than the diameter of perspiration vapour molecules (approximately
0.0004 microns) but are smaller than those of raindrops (greater than
3.0 microns).
so water vapour
(perspiration) can
pass through but
raindrops can not
This means that perspiration vapour can pass through and yet
raindrops can not. The larger the pores of the coating or film, the
more breathable but the less waterproof is the fabric to which it is
applied. Conversely, the smaller the pores, the more waterproof but the
less breathable is the resulting fabric.
A non-porous coating or
film uses molecular
movement within the
hydrophilic polymer from
which the coating or film
is made in response to
temperature changes to
drive moisture from the
inside to the outside of
the fabric
A non-porous coating or film uses molecular movement within the

hydrophilic polymer from which the coating or film is made to drive
moisture from the inside to the outside of the fabric.
As the body produces more

moisture, the distance between the molecular chains
increases, thus allowing even
more moisture to migrate
As the body produces more moisture, the distance between the

molecular chains increases, thereby enabling even more migration of
moisture to take place. In other words, the hydrophilic polymer will
swell as water molecules are absorbedand the greater the amount of
moisture produced, the greater the swelling.
A bicomponent offers the

benefits of both types while
removing a drawback of
microporous materials
A bicomponent coating or film uses a combination of microporous

and non-porous materials. In doing so, it achieves the benefits of both
types while eliminating a major disadvantage of microporous
materials.
Microporous components
resist the passage of liquid
water, but readily allow
water vapour and other
gases to flow
Microporous coatings or films are inherently hydrophobic and contain

very small pores. These pores resist the passage of liquid water, even
at very high pressures, but readily permit the flow of water vapour and
other gases. Microporous coatings or films are breathable because
liquid sweat is evaporated inside the garment, and the resulting vapour
diffuses through the coating or film to the outside.
But perspiration emitted

during strenuous activity
contains surface active
agents which gradually
coat the interior surfaces
of the pores and cause the
waterproof characteristics
to be lost
But a problem arises when microporous materials are used for very
strenuous activity, resulting in heavy sweating. This is because
perspiration contains surface active agents which gradually penetrate
the coating or film and then coat the interior surfaces of the pores. As
a result, the coating or film loses its waterproof characteristics and
wicks moisture through. This occurs because the surface agents lower
the surface tension of liquid water from rain, and the water can then
pass through the fabric from the outside to the inside.
The molecular movement results from thermal vibration in response

to temperature changesthe higher the temperature, the greater the
movement. In this way, the heat generated by the body inside the
fabric of a garment drives water vapour down the polymer chains in
the coating or film to the external face of the fabric. The molecules of
water migrate from chain to chain rather than freely through a physical
hole or pore.
A micron is a millionth (10-6) of a metre.
34
The problem can be solved

by adding a thin layer of
non-porous hydrophilic
polymer to the inside of
the microporous surface
Fortunately, it is possible to prevent these contaminants from reaching

the pores. This can be achieved by adding a thin layer of a non-porous
hydrophilic polymer film to the inside of the microporous surface
which is closest to the skin to form a bicomponent fabric. The film
still allows water vapour to pass through, which means that the
fabrics breathability is maintained.
Liquid sweat can be

absorbed by the hydrophilic
layer and still transmitted
through the fabric
Adding a hydrophilic layer in this way has the additional benefit that
liquid sweat can be absorbed by the hydrophilic layer and still
transmitted through the fabric. This does not happen with true
microporous materials.
In eVent fabrics, an
oleophobic layer around
individual ePTFE filaments
protects the membrane
from contaminants
eVent fabric (see page 41) has a membrane comprising individual

filaments of ePTFE which are surrounded with an oleophobic coating.
The coating protects the membrane from contaminants such as dirt,
body oils, cosmetics and sunscreen lotion.
A DWR finish works by

lowering the surface energy
of the outer face of the
fabric, causing water droplets to bead up and roll off
DURABLE WATER REPELLENT (DWR) FINISHES

A durable water repellent (DWR) finish can be applied to a fabric in
the form of a hydrophobic finish. DWR finishes are usually
fluorocarbon-based, and work by lowering the surface energy, or
surface tension, of the outer face of the fabric. Lowering the surface
tension of the fabric causes water droplets to bead up and roll off.
A DWR finish does not

inhibit breathability
A DWR finish does not inhibit breathability as it does not coat the
fabric. Instead, it bonds to the fibres in the fabric.
It is applied by spraying
or immersing the fabric
The finish is applied to the fabric during manufacture, either through

spraying or by immersing the fabric in a chemical bath.
The finish prevents light

rain from penetrating it
The finish prevents light rain from penetrating but it does not provide
protection against torrential rain.
A DWR-treated fabric can

absorb water amounting to
30-50% of its own weight
as a result of wet-out
In fact, a fabric treated with a DWR finish can absorb an amount of

water equal to 30-50% of its own weight as a result of wet-out, the
effect seen when water begins to soak into the face fabric9. Wet-out
compromises the breathability of a fabric as the flow of moisture from
inside the fabric is blocked by water on the outside.
DWR finishes are used

with laminates or coatings
DWR finishes are used routinely in conjunction with laminates or

coatings.
Their effectiveness can

be affected by dirt and
other contaminants
The effectiveness of DWR finishes can be adversely affected by dirt,

residues from detergents, oil, chemicals and other contaminants, which
alter the fabrics surface tension.
A face fabric is the outer layer of a waterproof breathable fabric.
35
They are not permanent

and tend to wear off over
time, but their performance
can be boosted by wash-in
treatments and machine
drying
In addition, DWR finishes are not permanent and tend to wear off
over time.
However, their performance can be boosted by wash-in impregnations
and machine drying a garment to which the finish has been
applied.
WATERPROOF BREATHABLE GARMENTS
Laminates, coatings
and DWR finishes
incorporating fluorocarbons are highly
effective in making
garments resistant to
water, oil and dirt
COMPOSITION OF WATERPROOF BREATHABLE

GARMENTS
Laminates, coatings and durable water repellent (DWR) finishes are
used in most high-tech waterproof breathable garments.
Many of these products contain fluorocarbons. These are organofluorine
compounds which contain only carbon and fluorine bonded together in
strong carbon-fluorine bonds. Such compounds are used to make
garments resistant to water, oil and dirt, and they are highly effective in
doing so.
But PFOA may be

present in trace amounts
as a pollutant and is
likely to be
carcinogenic and
bioaccumulative
However, perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) may be present in trace

amounts as a pollutant, and PFOA has been declared likely to be
carcinogenic to humans by the US Environmental Protection Agency
(EPA).
The EPA has started a programme with eight chemical

companies to eliminate the
use of PFOA by 2015
Following investigations into the potential health risks posed

by PFOA, the EPA initiated a programme with eight
chemical companies10 to eliminate the use of this substance by
2015.
Manufacturers have introduced fluorochemicals based

on C4 and C6 fluorocarbons
as they are seen as less
harmful than conventional
fluorochemicals based on C8
fluorocarbons but those
based on C6 fluorocarbons
are not as effective as their
C8 counterparts
In response to growing concerns among outdoor apparel suppliers and

the public about the dangers associated with PFOA, manufacturers
have introduced fluorochemicals with shorter fluorinated side chains
based on C4 and C6 fluorocarbons as these are regarded as being less
harmful than conventional fluorochemicals based on C8
fluorocarbons11.
Also, PFOA is known to have bioaccumulative properties in that it

tends to be stored in the bodies of humans and animals.
However, while fluorochemicals based on C6 fluorocarbons are

regarded as being less harmful than their C8 counterparts, they are not
as effective at repelling water.
10
The eight companies are Arkema, Asahi Glass Company, Ciba Specialty Chemicals (now BASF), Clariant,
Daikin, DuPont, Dyneon (a subsidiary of 3M) and Solvay Solexis.
11
For further information, see Leading Edge Technologies for Textile Finishing, Textile Outlook
International, No 152, September 2011.
36
CONSTRUCTION OF WATERPROOF BREATHABLE

GARMENTS
A waterproof breathable gar- A waterproof breathable garment is typically made from a material
ment has two or more layers comprising two or more layers.
A 2-layer construction has
an abrasion resistant face
fabric and a coating
A 2-layer construction is made from an abrasion resistant face

fabricusually polyester or nylonto which a membrane or coating
has been applied.
A 2.5-layer construction
has an outer layer, a
membrane and a half-layer
A 2.5-layer construction comprises an outer layer, a membrane and a

half-layer, which may comprise laminated dots, a grid pattern or
resins. These are designed to provide abrasion resistance.
A 3-layer construction has a

laminate between a face
fabric and a liner fabric,
while a 4-layer construction
has a face fabric, a membrane, a coating and a lining
A 3-layer construction comprises a laminate sandwiched between a

face fabric and a liner fabric.
Garment design is key to

enhancing the waterproof
breathability of apparel,
and many garments boast
a number of features
which promote
physiological comfort
A 4-layer construction is made up of a face fabric, a microporous

membrane, a hydrophilic coating and a moisture wicking lining.
DESIGN FEATURES OF WATERPROOF BREATHABLE
GARMENTS
Garment design plays a key role in enhancing the waterproof
breathability of apparel worn for outdoor sports and recreational
activities.
Most high quality garments designed for these activities boast design
features which promote physiological comfort. Such features include:
adjustable closures;
core vent pockets;
drawstring hems;
pit zips;
powder skirts;
storm flaps; and
waterproof seams.
Adjustable closures can

regulate airflow to and
from the wearers arms
and legs
Adjustable closures around the wrists of a jacket and the ankles of

pants can be tightened or loosened to regulate airflow to and from the
wearers arms and legs. They are typically constructed from hook and
loop tapes.
Core vent pockets increase

airflow when opened
Core vent pockets are specially designed pockets which increase

airflow when opened, thereby enhancing breathability.
Drawstring hems seal out

cold air, rain and snow,
and can help to regulate
air circulation within the
garment
Drawstring hems are featured on many waterproof jackets and pants.

They perform the same function as hook and loop closures by sealing
out cold air, rain and snow. The hems contain an elasticated cord
which can be tightened or loosened to regulate air circulation within
the garment.
37
Pit zips allow perspiration

vapour to escape
Pit zips are zips located on the underarms of a jacket. When opened,
they allow perspiration vapour to escape.
A powder skirt fits around

A powder skirt is a piece of fabric with elasticated hems and snap
the waist of the lining of a
closures, which fits around the waist of the lining of a jacket.
jacket and resists penetration
of air and moisture
Like a drawstring hem, it resists penetration of air and moisture.
Storm flaps stop moisture
from entering zips
Storm flaps are pieces of material which cover zips to prevent

moisture from penetrating through zip teeth.
Waterproof seams prevent Waterproof seams are those which have been sealed with tape or a
water from seeping through sealant to prevent water from seeping through.
APPLICATIONS OF WATERPROOF BREATHABLE MATERIALS

fabrics have a number
of key applications in
clothing
The key applications of waterproof breathable fabrics in clothing are

in:
The fabrics are used

mainly for outer layer
garments to protect the
wearer from the elements
without compromising
the performance of base
layer and middle layer
garments
In these applications, the fabrics are used mainly for outer layer
garments. The primary function of outer layer garments is to protect
the wearer from the elementswind, rain and snow.
Fabrics vary greatly in

their ability to keep water
out and their ability to
allow moisture vapour to
escape
Waterproof breathable fabrics vary greatly in their ability to keep

water out and their ability to allow moisture vapour to escape. Despite
significant innovation, achieving waterproof breathability while
maintaining durability involves a trade-off: the more waterproof the
fabric the less able it is to breathe, and vice versa.
The most important

consideration in selecting
a waterproof breathable
garment is the application
for which it is to be used
The most important consideration in selecting a waterproof breathable

garment is the application for which it is to be used. A truly
waterproof fabric must have the ability to withstand water when used
for different activities in adverse weather conditionsfor example,
when hiking in wind driven rain, while fishing, and while sitting on
wet surfaces.
38
sportswear;
leisure wear;
personal protective equipment (PPE); and
medical clothing.
This protection must be achieved without compromising the

performance of the base layer garmentwhich provides moisture
managementand the middle layer garment, which provides warmth
and insulation.
The perceived comfort of

garment depends on the
wearers activity level
The perceived comfort of a waterproof breathable garment depends on

the wearers activity level. Higher activity levels cause the body to
create more moisture vapour. This must be transported to the outside
of the garment efficiently in order to prevent discomfort. The more
active the wearer, the more breathability is desired.
There are also a number

of other factors which
affect the comfort of a
waterproof breathable
garment
Other factors which affect the comfort of a waterproof breathable

garment include:
fabrics have a wide range
of applications in the
leisure wear market and
the workwear market
Waterproof breathable fabrics have a wide range of applications in the

leisure wear market and the workwear market (Table 5).
the
the
the
the
the
the
the
the
ambient temperature;
level of humidity;
metabolism of the wearer;
thickness of the garments face fabric;
type of clothing worn underneath the garment;
type of garment lining12;
use of vents such as zips; and
wind speed.
They are also used extensively in items such as sleeping bags, tents
and mattresses.
Table 5: Applications of waterproof breathable fabrics in apparel, footwear and accessories

Leisure wear
Heavy-duty, foul weather clothing
Fashionable weather protection
Workwear
Foul weather clothing
Anoraks, cagoules, gaiters, gloves, hats, over-trousers

Golf apparel, rainwear, skiwear, walking boot linings
Clean room garments, special military protective clothing, surgical garments,

survival suits
Source: Handbook of technical textiles, AR Horrocks and SC Anand.
But in many applications,

fabrics are required to
possess other functional
characteristics
In many applications, however, waterproof breathable fabrics are

required to possess other functional characteristicsas well as
waterproofness and breathability.
Such characteristics include mechanical strength, abrasion resistance
and durability to repeated washing.
INNOVATIONS IN WATERPROOF BREATHABLE MATERIALS
Aclimatise, developed by
APT Fabrics, is claimed
to be the worlds first
thermoregulating, waterproof, breathable and
windproof fleece fabric
12
APT FABRICS: ACLIMATISE

Aclimatise is claimed by its developers, APT Fabrics, to be the
worlds first thermoregulating, waterproof, breathable and windproof
fleece fabric.
APT Fabrics is a UK-based company which specialises in the
development of technical waterproof breathable fabrics.
Woven linings tend to be less breathable than mesh linings.
39
The fabric consists of

an outer fabric treated
with a DWR finish and a
breathable polyurethane
membrane attached to a
moisture wicking and
antistatic lining
Arkophob FFR is a
fluorine-free finishing
treatment, developed by
Clariant, which provides
fabrics with water
repellency properties
The fleece fabric consists of an outer fabric and a breathable

polyurethane membrane to which a moisture wicking and antistatic
lining has been attached.
The outer surface of the fabric is treated with a durable water repellent
(DWR) finish which prevents water from being absorbed into the
fabric.
CLARIANT: ARKOPHOB FFR
Arkophob FFR is a fluorine-free finishing treatment which provides
fabrics with water repellency properties.
The treatment was developed by Clarianta Switzerland based
company which specialises in the research and development of
speciality chemicals for a wide range of applications.
Its water repellency perfor- The company claims that the water repellency performance of
mance is claimed to be bet- Arkophob FFR is better than that of equivalent fluorine-free products
ter than equivalent products which are available on the market.
When Arkophob FFR is
applied to the surface of
a fabric it forms a film
When Arkophob FFR is applied to the surface of a fabric it forms an

even and highly durable film, and provides the fabric with a soft
handle and pleasant touch.
The treated fabric has

improved tear strength and
abrasion resistance, and the
treatment has no adverse
impact on its breathability
In addition, the treated fabric has improved tear strength and better
abrasion resistance than untreated fabric.
The treatment remains for

more than 20 washes, a
performance close to that
of treatments made using
C6 fluorochemicals
The treatment remains for more than 20 washesa performance which

is close to that of water repellent treatments made using C6
fluorochemicals and better than the performance of other fluorine-free
products.
Columbia Sportswears
Omni-Dry is based on a
polyethylene membrane
which is much thinner
and lighter than PTFE
membranes
When it was introduced, it
was claimed that it would
take down Gore-Tex
40
At the same time, the treatment has no adverse impact on the

breathability of the fabric to which it is applied.
COLUMBIA SPORTSWEAR: OMNI-DRY

Omni-Dry is a proprietary waterproof breathable technology
introduced by Columbia Sportswear in 2011.
The technology is based on a polyethylene membrane which is said
to be much thinner and lighter in weight than polytetrafluoroethylene
(PTFE) membranes.
At the time of its introduction, Columbia Sportswears marketing
material claimed that the product would take down Gore-Tex
and other dinosaurs in the industry that stopped trying a long time
ago.
Dow Corning DWR-7000

Soft Hydro Guard is an
SBT emulsion finishing
treatment which provides
water repellent properties
and softness
DOW CORNING: DOW CORNING DWR-7000 SOFT HYDRO

GUARD
Dow Corning DWR-7000 Soft Hydro Guard is a silicon-based
technology (SBT) emulsion finishing treatment which provides
sportswear with water repellent properties and softness.
The treatment was developed by Dow Corning, a USA-based provider
of silicones and SBT for a number of industries.
The emulsion does not use

fluorine and APEOs, and
is therefore claimed to be
more environmentally
friendly than conventional
water repellent treatments
The emulsion does not use fluorine and solvents of alkylphenol

ethoxylates (APEOs), and is therefore claimed to be friendlier to the
environment than conventional water repellent treatments.
Tests show that the

treatment remains durable
after a garment treated
with the emulsion has been
laundered 30 times
Tests have shown that the water repellency provided by Dow Corning
DWR-7000 Soft Hydro Guard remains durable after a garment treated
with the emulsion has been laundered 30 times in a domestic washing
machine. This is the same as, or better than, the durability provided by
conventional fluorocarbon water repellent finishing systems.
The treatment is compatible

with most textile auxiliaries,
and does not need heat
reactivation, additional
performance extenders,
softeners or lubricants to
maintain its properties
Furthermore, Dow Corning DWR-7000 Soft Hydro Guard is

compatible with, and maintains its stability in the presence of, most
textile auxiliaries.
Dow Corning DWR-7000

Soft Hydro Guard was
launched at the AATCC
2012 International
Conference
Dow Corning DWR-7000 Soft Hydro Guard was launched at the

American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC)
2012 International Conference held in Charlotte, North Carolina, USA,
in March 2012.
According to Dow Corning, the silicones used in the product have no

toxic side effects and do not negatively affect the environment.
Also, it does not need heat reactivation, additional performance

extenders, softeners or lubricants for treated garments to maintain the
properties provided by the treatment.
eVent DVL is a waterproof

breathable material
produced by GE
GE (GENERAL ELECTRIC): EVENT DVL

eVent DVL (direct venting line) is a waterproof breathable material
produced by the USA-based conglomerate GE (General Electric). The
fabric forms part of the companys eVent fabrics collection.
eVent fabrics were

originally developed for
use in industrial air
filtration systems
eVent fabrics were originally developed for use in air filtration

systems for gas turbines and other industrial applications. However, it
was later discovered that they were effective as waterproof breathable
materials which could be used in clothing.
eVent DVL waterproof fabric contains GEs proprietary

eVent DVL waterproof
fabric contains a proprietary expanded polytetrafluoroethylene (ePTFE) hydrophobic microporous
membrane.
ePTFE membrane
41
which has individual

ePTFE filaments surrounded
with an oleophobic coating
that protects the membrane
from contaminants, rather
than relying on a
polyurethane film
The membrane has individual filaments of ePTFE, which are

surrounded with an oleophobic coating. The coating protects the
membrane from contaminants such as dirt, body oils, cosmetics and
sunscreen lotion.
Moisture vapour underneath

the membrane is vented
through the membrane
without first making that
surface wet
Consequently, moisture vapour on the surface underneath the

membrane is vented directly through the membrane without first
making that surface wet.
This contrasts with the

two-step process used by
many other waterproof
breathable technologies
This contrasts with the two-step process used by many other

waterproof breathable technologies. In the case of the latter, moisture
is transported to a polyurethane coating on the inside of the fabric.
Once the moisture is absorbed by the coating, it is pushed through to
the outside of the fabric in response to a build-up of heat on the inside
of the fabric.
The membrane is created

by coating each ePTFE
fibril individually
The membrane is created by coating each fibril of the ePTFE material

individually, leaving spaces between the fibrils for moisture vapour to
escape.
A protective print is
applied on top of the
membrane
On top of the membrane, a protective printwhich comprises a

repeating web of outlined triangular shapesis applied. This provides
the membrane with a durable protective screen.
Unlike other waterproof breathable materials, the membrane does not

rely on a polyurethane film to protect it from these contaminants.
The fabrics breathability is based on direct venting technology, which

enables moisture vapour to vent directly to the outside of the fabric.
The fabrics are suitable for eVent DVL fabrics are especially suitable for garments worn for light
garments for light activities outdoor activities such as cycling and running.
The ePTFE membranes
used in these fabrics comply
with the requirements of
Oeko-Tex Standard 100
Barrier ECO, developed

by HeiQ Materials, is a
water repellent finish
based on a fluorine-free
technology which provides
reliable water, oil and
stain repellency
The technology results in
the creation of micro-sized
particles on a fabrics
surface
42
In October 2013 GE announced that the ePTFE membranes used in

these fabrics had been shown to comply with the requirements of
Oeko-Tex Standard 100, which certifies that the membranes are free
from substances that are harmful to humans and the environment.
HEIQ MATERIALS: BARRIER ECO
Barrier ECO is a water repellent finish developed by HeiQ Materials,
a Switzerland-based company which develops and manufactures
innovative textile effects.
The finish is based on a fluorine-free technology which offers reliable
water, oil and stain repellency. In addition, it complies with bluesign,
one of the worlds most rigorous textile production standards.
The technology results in the creation of a three-dimensional (3D)
structure composed of special micro-sized particles on the surface of
a fabric.
which helps to minimise

the contact area between
water or oil and the fabric
This structure helps to minimise the contact area between water or oil
and the fabric and, in turn, prevents water, oil and stains from
adhering to the fabrics surface.
Barrier ECO provides good According to HeiQ Materials, Barrier ECO provides fabrics with good
abrasion resistance and a
abrasion resistance and a soft handle.
soft handle
HELLY HANSEN: HELLY TECH
Helly Tech is a waterproof Helly Tech is the name of a proprietary waterproof breathable
breathable polyurethane
fabric which was introduced by Norway-based Helly Hansen
fabric from Helly Hansen
in 1984.
Helly Tech fabrics are
constructed with a thin
membrane or with several
thin polymer coatings
Helly Tech fabrics are constructed in two ways.

One way is to construct the fabrics with a thin membrane which
transports moisture.
The other way is to apply several thin layers of polymer to the
reverse side of the fabric.
Both are equally efficient

at releasing moisture
Both systems are said to be equally efficient at releasing body

moisture.
Micropores let the fabric

breathe but keep water out
Micropores in the fabric allow the fabric to breathe without letting

water molecules penetrate from the outside.
Helly Tech fabrics can

withstand a hydrostatic
head of 15 metres and have
a breathability rating of
15,000 g/m2 over 24 hours
The company claims that Helly Tech fabrics can withstand a

hydrostatic head of 15 metres (21.4 psi).
In addition, they have a breathability rating of 15,000 g/m2 over a
period of 24 hours.
Seams are sealed to ensure

the garment is waterproof
In garments made from the fabric, all seams are sealed to ensure that
the whole garment is waterproof.
There are three versions

of Helly Tech fabrics
Helly Hansen offers three versions of Helly Tech fabrics, namely:

Helly Tech Professional;
Helly Tech Performance; and
Helly Tech Protection.
Helly Tech Professional

is a 3-layer fabric
Helly Tech Professional is a 3-layer fabric designed for garments

worn by professional sailors, ski patrollers and mountain safety
personnel.
Helly Tech Performance

is a 2.5-layer fabric
Helly Tech Performance is a 2.5-layer fabric which is used in

garments worn for activities such as skiing and mountain climbing.
Helly Tech Protection

is a 2-layer fabric
Helly Tech Protection is a 2-layer fabric which is used in garments

worn for activities carried out in wet, cold and windy weather.
43
Phobotex is the name of

a range of fluorine-free
finishing treatments from
Huntsman Textile Effects
which provide fabrics with
the ability to repel water
and everyday stains
HUNTSMAN TEXTILE EFFECTS: PHOBOTEX

Phobotex is the name of a range of fluorine-free finishing treatments
developed by Huntsman Textile Effectsa Singapore-based company
which supplies chemicals and dyes for textile materials.
Each of the treatments in the range is able to provide a wide range of
fabrics with the ability to repel water and everyday stains, such as
those caused by mud and grass.
The range includes a

water-based finishing
treatment which is
effective for up to
30 washes
The range includes a water-based finishing treatment which remains

effective for up to 30 washes at a temperature of 40C. Moreover,
Huntsman claims that the treatment provides the product to which it
has been applied with a softer finish compared with conventional
treatments which provide a similar level of performance.
All of the treatments in the

range are considered to be
environmentally friendly
All of the treatments in the range are considered to be more

environmentally friendly than conventional treatments which provide
a similar level of performance as they do not contain fluorine.
Also, they are suitable

for use by signatory
companies of the Zero
Discharge of Hazardous
Chemicals (ZDHC)
programme
In addition, they are suitable for use by signatory companies of the

Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) programme. The
ZDHC programme provides participating companies with guidance as
to how they can reduce the amounts of hazardous chemicals in their
supply chains and products, with a view to eliminating them altogether
by 2020.
Texapore is a
polyurethane-based
technology from Jack
Wolfskin
JACK WOLFSKIN: TEXAPORE

Texapore is a polyurethane-based waterproof breathable technology
developed by Germany-based Jack Wolfskin13.
The latter is one of Europes leading suppliers of functional outdoor
clothing.
There are over 40

different types of
Texapore fabric
The company offers more than 40 different types of Texapore fabric,

each of which has a specific level of waterproofness and
breathability.
The company has

developed ten levels of
waterproof breathability
The company has developed ten levels of waterproof breathability.

Four levels are based on a microporous coating which is bonded
securely to an outer fabric.
Another four levels are based on the use of pore-free membranes.
The remaining two levels are based on a hybrid technology which
involves the use of a combination of coatings and membranes.
13
44
See also Profile of Jack Wolfskin: a premium outdoor apparel brand, starting on page 61 of this issue.
The level of waterproof

breathability needed is
determined by the outdoor
activity for which the garment is intended to be worn
The level of waterproof breathability required for a garment made

from Texapore fabric is determined by the outdoor activity for which
the garment is intended to be worn. For alpine hiking jackets, for
example, a triple-layered fabric construction with very high levels of
waterproofness and breathability is used.
Texapore fabric is offered

in three main versions
Texapore fabric is offered in three main versions, each of which is

designed for a specific activity level:
stretch;
extra lightweight; and
extra robust.
LOWE ALPINE: TRIPLEPOINT CERAMIC

Triplepoint Ceramic is a
Triplepoint Ceramic is a waterproof breathable coating technology
featured in garments designed by Lowe Alpinea subsidiary of
coating technology found in UK-based Equip Outdoors Technologies, which specialises in the
Lowe Alpine garments
supply of outdoor apparel and accessories.
It contains ceramic particles
which create a uniform
matrix of nano-sized pores
that provide a pathway for
moisture vapour to escape
The coating differs from other waterproof breathable coatings in that

it contains ceramic particles which create a uniform matrix of nanosized pores.
It is said to be waterproof,
windproof and highly
breathable
Triplepoint Ceramic is said to be waterproof and windproof as well as

highly breathable.
MemBrain Strata fabric

from Marmot consists of
2.5 layers and contains
non-organic particles on
the inside of a
polyurethane laminate
These pores provide a pathway for moisture vapour to escape.
MARMOT: MEMBRAIN STRATA

MemBrain Strata is a waterproof breathable fabric developed by the
USA-based company Marmot, a producer of outdoor apparel and
equipment.
The fabric consists of 2.5 layers and contains non-organic particles on
the inside of a polyurethane laminate.
It is more breathable, is
MemBrain Strata is said to be more breathable, to be softer and
softer and offers greater
to offer greater stretch than other 2.5-layer coated fabrics on the
stretch than other 2.5-layer market.
coated fabrics
MARMOT: NANOPRO
NanoPro, from Marmot, is NanoPro is a waterproof breathable fabric introduced by Marmot.
fabric which allows
The fabric is said to allow moisture vapour to evaporate more
moisture vapour to
quickly without compromising waterproof performance or wind
evaporate more quickly
protection.
The coating in NanoPro is
43% more breathable than
previous fabrics it has used
According to the company, the coating used in NanoPro is 43% more

breathable than previous fabrics it has used in its range of outdoor
jackets.
45
Jackets made from the fabric Jackets made from the new fabric will form part of the companys
will feature in the companys 2014 outdoor clothing collection.
2014 clothing collection
MARMOT: PRECIP
PreCip is a lightweight and PreCip is said to be Marmots lightest and most compressible
compressible fabric
waterproof breathable fabric.
Its barrier technology uses
microporous polyurethane
with silicon dioxide
particles that allow tiny
water vapour molecules
such as perspiration to
pass through, but prevent
the passage of larger
molecules such as rain
droplets
The key to PreCip is a microporous polyurethane barrier material

which contains silicon dioxide particles.
These particles create many small and consistent holes which allow
tiny water vapour molecules to pass through the material. Larger liquid
molecules, however, are not able to pass through the material.
As a result, rain can not penetrate the fabric but perspiration vapour
is able to penetrate and move to the outside of the fabric.
Pertex is a brand of breathable fabrics for sleeping

bags and outdoor apparel
MITSUI & CO: PERTEX

Pertex is a brand of waterproof breathable fabrics for sleeping
bags and outdoor apparel. The brand is owned by Japan-based
Mitsui & Co.
Pertex Shield+ has very

high waterproof and
breathability ratings
Pertex Shield+ is a fabric with very high waterproof and breathability

ratings. It is used to make lightweight garments for applications such
as alpine climbing, cycling and skiing.
Pertex Endurance is a
lightweight, breathable
nylon fabric with a
microporous coating and
a membrane which
facilitates breathability
Pertex Endurance is a lightweight, breathable nylon fabric with a

microporous coating. The fabric is used mainly for sleeping bags.
The outer surface of the

fabric has a DWR finish
The outer surface of the fabric has a DWR finish which prevents water
from being absorbed into the nylon.
The Pertex Endurance

system allows water
vapour produced by the
body to escape into the
atmosphere, but prevents
rain or snow from
penetrating the fabric
The Pertex Endurance system allows water vapour produced by the

body to escape into the atmosphere. At the same time, it prevents light
rain or snow from penetrating the fabric.
Pertex Equilibrium has a

unique denier gradient
structure which allows
moisture to be transported
to the outside of the fabric
where it evaporates
Pertex Equilibrium has a unique denier gradient structure. Yarns

comprising larger filaments are placed on the inside of the fabric while
yarns comprising smaller filaments are placed on the outside of the
fabric.
46
The fabric has a membrane containing many hydrophilic molecules

which facilitate breathability. The molecules create pathways for the
moisture to escape by means of diffusion into the atmosphere.
According to the company, Pertex Endurance can withstand water at

a pressure equivalent to a hydrostatic head of more than 1,000 mm
(1.4 psi).
This structure allows moisture to move from the larger filaments to the
smaller filaments by capillary action, and then to the outside of the
fabric where it evaporates.
Pertex Equilibrium is
also waterproof
Pertex Equilibrium is also waterproof, and protects against light rain

and snow.
Pertex Eco is a series of

fabrics made from yarns
which are produced from
recycled polyester
Pertex Eco is a series of environmentally friendly fabrics made from

yarns which are produced from recycled polyester.
Dry.Q waterproof breathable technologies from

Mountain Hardwear result
in fabrics which are highly
air permeable and so
perspiration does not accumulate inside the fabric
The series is not a technology in its own right but is available across
the entire Pertex range of fabricsincluding Pertex Endurance and
Pertex Equilibrium.
MOUNTAIN HARDWEAR: DRY.Q
Dry.Q is a family of waterproof breathable technologies introduced in
2010 by USA-based Mountain Hardwear, a wholly-owned subsidiary
of Columbia Sportswear.
Fabric which incorporates Dry.Q technology is said to be highly air
permeable and therefore perspiration does not accumulate inside the
fabric.
Humidity is not needed to

trigger their breathability
Unlike traditional waterproof breathable fabrics, a fabric incorporating

Dry.Q does not require humidity to trigger its breathability.
The fabric is compared

to a bathtub with the
plug pulled out whereas
a traditional breathable
fabric is likened to a
bathtub with the plug in
The company compares the fabric to a bathtub with the drain plug
pulled out. Once water is poured in, it drains out.
EPIC is a water resistant,

windproof, breathable
fabric from Nextec
A traditional waterproof breathable fabric, by contrast, is likened to a

bathtub with the drain plug in. When water is poured in, the water
level will continue to rise until it reaches the side drain from which it
can escape.
NEXTEC APPLICATIONS: EPIC
EPIC (Encapsulated Protection Inside Clothing) is a water resistant,
windproof and breathable fabric. It was introduced by the USA-based
company Nextec Applications in 1998.
Polymers are wrapped

around individual fibre
bundles
Through the companys patented encapsulation process, a viscous

mixture of silicone-based polymers is placed on to a fabric. Energy is
then applied to the polymers, and the latter work their way into the
fabric. As they do so, they wrap around individual fibre bundles.
All but the smallest

spaces between the fibres
are filled, to create a
weatherproof barrier
which still allows water
vapour to escape
In this way, all but the smallest spaces between the fibres in the weave
are filled, and this creates a barrier which is impervious to rain, snow
and wind.
Water resistance in EPIC

materials is created inside
the fabric rather than
outside and is maintained
after repeated washings
Water resistance in EPIC materials is created inside the fabric rather

than outside. Consequently, EPICs water resistant properties are
maintained after repeated washings. Many competing fabrics, by
contrast, require films, coatings or DWR treatments to provide
protection against the passage of water from outside.
However, the spaces between the encapsulated fibres are large enough
to allow water vapour to escape.
47
One of EPICs key

benefits is its low
water absorption
According to Nextec Applications, one of EPICs key benefits is its

low water absorption. This stems from the fact that the polymers take
up space where water may otherwise seep in. As a result, little water
is absorbed into the face of the fabric.
in contrast to durable
water repellent treated
fabrics
In DWR-treated fabrics, by contrast, the face of the fabric can become

soaked once the treatment has worn off, thereby adding weight to a
garment.
The encapsulation process

in EPIC adds durability to
the base fabric
The encapsulation process used in the manufacture of EPIC does not

affect the handle of the base fabric. Moreover, it can add strength to
the fabric and improve its abrasion resistance and tear strength.
EPIC protects against the

elements in all but the
most severe conditions
EPIC is said to provide protection against the elements in all but the
most severe conditions, such as torrential rain.
Storm-FIT is a
fabric developed by Nike
The fabric utilises ultrafine

microfibre polyester and a
breathable membrane and
is designed for athletes
exposed to wet, windy and
cold conditions
H2No from Patagonia is a

standard for waterproof
breathable fabrics which
ensures a high level of
performance over the
long term
NIKE: STORM-FIT
Storm-FIT is a waterproof breathable fabric developed by USA-based
Nike. The product forms part of Nikes FIT fabrics range, which aims
to address the different requirements of fabrics needed for different
activities in all conditions.
The fabric utilises ultrafine microfibre polyester and is combined with
a breathable membrane. It repels moisture on the outside and
transports sweat to the exterior of the fabric.
The fabric is designed for athletes who are exposed to wet, windy and
cold conditions.
PATAGONIA: H2NO
H2No is a standard for waterproof breathable fabrics developed by
Patagonia, a USA-based supplier of rugged outdoor apparel.
The standard is said to ensure a high level of performance over the
long term and, in order to meet the standard, fabrics must undergo
rigorous testing.
Patagonia uses a wet flex

test called Killer Wash
To test the waterproofness of a fabric, Patagonia uses a proprietary

wet flex test called Killer Wash which simulates years of use in
drenching conditions.
Fabrics must be able to

withstand a water pressure
of 20,000 mm before and
10,000 mm after the test
In order to meet the H2No standard, fabrics must be capable of

withstanding a water pressure of 20,000 mm before, and 10,000 mm
after, its Killer Wash test if they are to be deemed waterproof.
ion-mask is a water
repellent treatment
commercialised by P2i
48
P2I: ION-MASK
ion-mask is a water repellent treatment commercialised by P2ia
UK-based company founded in January 2004 as a spin-off from the
Defence Science and Technology Laboratory (DSTL), the UK Ministry
of Defences (MoDs) principal scientific research agency.
It is applied by means
of an ionised gas or
plasma
ion-mask is applied by means of an ionised gas or plasma. It works

at the molecular level by altering the surface energy of an object in
order to change the way it interacts with liquid.
When applied to an item

of footwear, it allows the
foot to breathe and
prevents water from
seeping through the sides
of the item as the water
merely bounces off the
surface
When applied to an item of footwear, ion-mask allows the foot to

breathe and prevents water from seeping through the sides of the
itemthe water merely bounces off the surface.
ion-mask does not

compromise any existing
performance properties,
it is invisible and it does
not add weight, in
contrast to waterproof
breathable membranes
ion-mask does not compromise any of the existing performance

properties of the item or change the look or feel of the item.
Polartec NeoShell is
claimed to be the most
breathable waterproof
fabric
The fabric has stretch
properties and is composed
of a hydrophobic
microporous polyurethane
membrane which is
sandwiched between an
outer fabric and an inner
lining
The treatment is applied as a protective layer over the entire surface

of the item, including the inside as well as the outside. Furthermore,
it is applied around and between the fibres from which the item is
made.
The treatment itself is invisible and does not add weight to the item.
By contrast, waterproof breathable membranes which act as a physical
barrier against water can add weight and bulk to an object.
POLARTEC: POLARTEC NEOSHELL
Polartec NeoShell is claimed to be the most breathable waterproof
fabric available on the market today.
It was developed by Polartec, a USA-based company best known for
its fleece fabrics.
The fabric has stretch properties and is composed of a hydrophobic
microporous polyurethane membrane which is sandwiched between an
outer fabric and an inner lining, as follows.
The outer fabric is abrasion resistant and is treated with a DWR.
The membrane has a high level of air permeability and is said to
dramatically accelerate moisture vapour transfer.
The inner lining has moisture wicking properties and is soft
against the skin.
The membrane in the

Polartec NeoShell fabric
only requires low heat
and moisture pressure
levels for moisture vapour
transfer to be activated
According to Polartec, conventional hard shell fabric (see page 28)

which has a breathable membrane requires heat and moisture to
generate enough pressure before the membrane begins to facilitate
moisture vapour transfer. The membrane in the Polartec NeoShell
fabric, however, only requires extremely low levels of heat and
moisture pressure for airflow to be activated.
As a result, Polartec
NeoShell is said to keep the
wearer drier than conventional hard shell fabrics
As a result, garments made from Polartec NeoShell are said to keep

the wearer drier and more comfortable during activities involving high
exertion than garments constructed from conventional hard shell
fabrics.
49
Polartec NeoShell is used

by several major brands
Polartec NeoShell is used by several major performance apparel brands,

including Mammut, Marmot, Rab and The North Face.
Figure 3
Illustration of Polartec NeoShell
Source: Rab
Ecorepel is a biomimicry
textile finish from Schoeller
Technologies which repels
water from the surface of a
fabric to which it is applied
SCHOELLER TECHNOLOGIES: ECOREPEL

Ecorepel is a biomimicry14 textile finish which is designed to repel
water from the surface of a fabric to which it is applied.
It was developed by the Switzerland-based company Schoeller
Technologies.
Ecorepel imitates the

natural protection
which oily secretions
provide to the feathers
of water fowl
Developers of the finish were inspired by the oily secretions of water

fowl which act as a natural repellent and allow feathers to stay dry after
a bird dives into water. Ecorepel imitates this natural protection, and in
doing so it provides textiles treated with the finish with water repellent
properties.
The finish comprises long

paraffin chains which wrap
themselves around individual
fibres, filaments or yarns to
form a very fine film
The finish comprises long paraffin chains which wrap themselves

around individual fibres, filaments or yarns to form a very fine film.
14
50
This reduces surface tension on the textile, allowing water droplets to

run off the surface.
See also Fast track: Biomimicry, Performance Apparel Markets, No 6, 3rd quarter 2003.
These chains are

biodegradable and free
from fluorocarbons
The paraffin chains which make up the finish are biodegradable

and do not contain any fluorocarbons. Also, ecorepel is
odourless.
The finish is highly breathable and highly functional
The finish is highly breathable and highly functional, and allows fabrics
to remain soft to the touch.
Also, ecorepel complies

with the requirements of
In addition, ecorepel has been certified as complying with the

requirements of Oeko-Tex Standard 100, which confirms that a product
is free from harmful substances. It also complies with the bluesign
standard.
Ecorepel was exhibited at

ISPO Munich in 2012
Ecorepel was exhibited for the first time at ISPO Municha sportswear
and equipment trade showin early 2012.
Figure 4
Illustration of fabric treated with ecorepel
Source: Schoeller
Sympatex is a non-porous
hydrophilic polyester
membrane which is 100%
waterproof, 100%
windproof and highly
breathable
SYMPATEX TECHNOLOGIES: SYMPATEX

Sympatex is a waterproof breathable membrane produced by Sympatex
Technologies, a Germany-based supplier of high-tech functional
materials for clothing, footwear and accessories.
The company claims that Sympatex is 100% waterproof, 100%
windproof and highly breathable.
It is made from a copolymer

of polyester and polyether
The membrane has a non-porous structure15, and is made from a

copolymer containing 70% polyester and 30% polyether.
Billions of hydrophilic
molecules expel moisture
quickly by means of wicking
The membrane consists of billions of hydrophilic molecules which

expel moisture quickly from the inside to the outside by means of
wicking. It has a thickness of just 5 microns.
15
For a description of non-porous coatings and membranes, see page 33.
51
The fabric is extremely

breathable according to
the Hohenstein Institute
The water vapour permeability rate of the membrane is less than

1.5 RET (resistance to evaporative transfer) and therefore the fabric is
classed as being very breathable by the Germany-based Hohenstein
Institute (see Table 4 on page 32).
Sympatex offers four main

types of laminate
Sympatex Technologies offers four main types of laminate containing

the Sympatex membrane, namely:
a 2-layer laminate
a 2-layer laminate in which the membrane is bonded directly to the

back of an outer fabric;
a 3-layer laminate
a 3-layer laminate in which the membrane is sandwiched between

the outer fabric and the lining;
an insert laminate
an insert laminate, in which the membrane is bonded to a

nonwoven or a knitted fabric which hangs loosely between the
outer fabric and the lining; and
and a lining laminate
a lining laminate, in which the membrane is bonded to the back of

the lining.
The company offers

three types of laminate
technology
The company offers three types of laminate technology which provide

enhanced waterproof and breathable properties, namely:
Sympatex, which is incorporated into garments for use in all
weather conditions;
Sympatex Performance, which is incorporated into garments
intended for use in snow, active sports and high performance
sports; and
Sympatex Professional, which is incorporated into work and safety
garments that are designed to provide protection in harsh
conditions.
Sympatex and Sympatex

Performance laminates are
100% waterproof and
100% windproof, and the
seams of garments made
from them are also 100%
waterproof
Sympatex and Sympatex Performance laminates are claimed to be

100% waterproof and 100% windproof. They are said to offer
optimum breathability, and to allow body moisture to be quickly
transported away from the skin.
Sympatex Professional
laminates are durable,
breathable, waterproof
and windproof
Sympatex Professional laminates offer durability, breathability,

waterproofness and windproofness. Furthermore, the technology can
be used to create a microclimate in order to achieve better temperature
regulation while maintaining performance.
52
Furthermore, the seams of garments incorporating either of the two

laminates are sealed so that they are 100% waterproof.
and can provide

temperature regulation in
extreme conditions
According to tests carried out in Sympatexs laboratories and

independent tests carried out by the Hohenstein Institute, Sympatex
Professional laminates can withstand a hydrostatic head (see page 29)
of up to 25,000 mm (35.6 psi). In addition, it can provide temperature
regulation in extreme conditions.
The company offers several The company offers several variations of its original Sympatex
variations of its original
membrane, including:
Sympatex membrane
Sympatex Reflexion;
Sympatex HigH2Out; and
Sympatex Phaseable.
Sympatex Reflexion is
coated with an ultra-thin
layer of aluminium to
reflect body heat and
protect against
electromagnetic radiation
Laminates incorporating Sympatex Reflexion achieve high levels of

heat reflection as the membrane is coated with an ultra-thin layer of
aluminium.
Sympatex HigH2Out
absorbs perspiration
quickly and disperses it
to a wide area so it is
transported before
condensing on the skin
The Sympatex HigH2Out membrane system combines a hydrophilic

membrane with an extremely absorbent layer.
It increases breathability
by 120% compared with
standard laminates
According to the company, Sympatex HigH2Out laminates

increase breathability by 120% compared with standard
laminates.
Sympatex Phaseable
2.5-layer laminate offers
lightness and stability,
and consists of an outer
fabric, a membrane with
small heat-regulating
foam dots which contain
air to provide an
insulating layer and a
thin polyurethane coating
Sympatex Phaseable is a 2.5-layer laminate. It combines the lightness

of a 2-layer laminate with the stability of a 3-layer laminate. The
system consists of:
As a result, according to Sympatex, such materials are able to reflect

up to 75% of body heat and protect against 97% of all electromagnetic
radiation.
The absorbent layer is capable of absorbing perspiration within

seconds and dispersing it over a wide area. As a result, moisture is
transported to the outside more quickly and more effectively before it
is able to condense on the skin.
an outer fabric;
a Sympatex membrane to which small, heat-regulating foam dots
have been attached; and
a thin polyurethane coating.
During low activity levels, air between the foam dots serves as an
insulation layer.
Perspiration causes the

When the wearer is active and the body produces perspiration, the
fabric to expand, which
fabric becomes wet and expands.
reduces the insulation layer
and increases breathability Such expansion reduces the insulation layer of air and, at the same
time, it increases breathability.
53
A new version of 2.5-layer

Phaseable has been
introduced comprising an
outer material, a
hydrophilic membrane and
a structure of foam dots
In July 2013 Sympatex introduced a new version of its Phaseable

lightweight laminate fabric. The fabric has 2.5-layers, comprising:
During inactivity, the dots

create an insulating layer of
air between the skin and the
laminate but the membrane
swells when perspiration
builds up and the dots
disappear so that the
laminate is able to remove
more moisture
When the wearer of a garment made from Phaseable is inactive, these

dots help create an insulating layer of air between the skin and the
laminate.
Bionic-Finish Eco,
developed by Sympatex
Technologies and Rudolf
Group, is a fluorine-free,
DWR treatment for
fabrics
Garments treated with it
repel water and dirt
outer material;
a hydrophilic membrane; and
a structure of foam dots which are in contact with the wearers
skin at discrete points.
When the wearer exercises, perspiration builds up and causes the

membrane to swell and the dots to disappear.
As a result, the laminate comes into greater contact with the skin and
is therefore able to remove more moisture.
SYMPATEX TECHNOLOGIES AND RUDOLF GROUP:
BIONIC-FINISH ECO
Sympatex Technologies and Rudolf Group, a Germany-based specialist
in textile finishes, were among the first companies to develop a
fluorine-free DWR treatment for fabrics.
The treatment, called Bionic-Finish Eco, is said to be environmentally
friendly and can therefore be applied to fabrics which are used in the
manufacture of sustainable functional clothing or garments.
Garments treated with Bionic-Finish Eco repel water and dirt, and the
treatment is highly durable and resistant to wear.
It does not contain paraffin Also, the garments retain their breathability because the treatment does
wax and so the garments
not contain paraffin waxan impermeable substance which is used to
remain breathable
make fabrics waterproof.
The garments do not
need to be ironed after
laundering to maintain
the effectiveness of the
treatment, unlike
conventional waterproof
finishes and DWR
finishes
Bionic-Finish Eco is
composed of star-shaped
hyper-branched polymers
whose development was
influenced by the structure
of branches at the tops of
trees
54
In addition, the garments do not need to be ironed after laundering in

order to maintain the effectiveness of the treatment at a high level.
Conventional waterproof finishes, by contrast, need to be reapplied
and fixed and activated with heateither by ironing or tumble drying.
Similarly, in the case of DWR finishes, a garment treated with the
finish needs to be washed and the finish heat-activated either by
tumble drying or ironing.
Bionic-Finish Eco is composed of star-shaped hyper-branched
polymers whose development was influenced by the structure of the
branches at the tops of trees.
Researchers from the two companies noted that this structure provides
the trees with a larger surface area for their foliage to grow on. The
structure also provides for greater density of the foliage within the
treetop.
The star-shaped
hyper-branched polymers
improve the water
repellency of Bionic-Finish
Eco significantly
The researchers adopted this idea and adapted the polymers from
which Bionic-Finish Eco is made so that they have a similar structure.
They claim that the star-shaped hyper-branched polymers improve the
water repellency of Bionic-Finish Eco significantly.
HydrECO Concept water

repellent finishes from
Tanatex are free from
fluorine
TANATEX CHEMICALS: HYDRECO CONCEPT

HydrECO Concept is the name of a range of water repellent finishes
which are free from fluorine, and were developed by the Netherlandsbased company Tanatex Chemicalsone of the worlds leading
producers of textile processing chemicals.
They include finishes for

fabrics made from
synthetic and cotton fibres
The range includes a finish for fabrics made from synthetic fibres, and
a finish for fabrics made from cotton fibres or blends of cotton and
synthetic fibres.
The finishes are said to

provide a high degree of
water repellency
Both finishes are said to provide fabrics with a high degree of water
repellency as well as a pleasant handle.
HyVent waterproof
breathable fabrics from
The North Face have a
thin polyurethane coating
across the back of the
face fabric
THE NORTH FACE: HYVENT

HyVent is a family of waterproof breathable fabrics developed by
The North Face, a USA-based company which supplies outdoor
clothing and equipment.
The fabrics in the range incorporate a polyurethane coating which is
applied as a thin, even layer across the back of the face fabric (see
page 35).
The HyVent family

comprises five different
fabrics
The HyVent family of fabrics comprises:
HyVent Alpha provides a

high level of waterproofness
and is therefore suitable for
garments worn in extreme
weather conditions
HyVent Alpha is premium fabric which is comparable with Gore-Tex.
HyVent 2L comprises an
abrasion resistant layer and
a polyurethane coated layer,
while HyVent 3L also has
an inner layer which
channels perspiration to
the polyurethane coating
HyVent 2L is a 2-layer fabric comprising an abrasion resistant outer

layer and a polyurethane coated inner layer.
HyVent
HyVent
HyVent
HyVent
HyVent
Alpha;
2L;
3L;
DT; and
DT EC.
It provides a high level of waterproofness as it can withstand a water

pressure of 75 psi and is therefore designed for garments worn in
extreme weather conditions.
HyVent 3L is a 3-layer fabric made from an abrasion resistant outer

layer, a polyurethane coated middle layer and an inner layer which
channels perspiration moisture to the micropores of the polyurethane
coating.
55
HyVent DT is a waterproof
breathable 2.5-layer fabric
with a raised scrim which is
lighter in weight than a liner
or laminated inner layer and
holds the waterproof barrier
away from the skin for
greater air circulation
HyVent DT is a waterproof breathable 2.5-layer fabric.
HyVent DT EC is an
version of HyVent DT
as it contains castor oil
derived from beans
HyVent DT EC is a more environmentally friendly version of HyVent

DT as it contains castor oil derived from beans.
Entrant fabric from Toray

Industries has a waterproof
breathable microporous
coating with pores in a
honeycomb-like structure
DT stands for Dry Touch and refers to a raised scrim which is lighter
in weight than a liner or laminated inner layer.
The scrim physically holds the fabrics waterproof barrier away
from the skin, thereby increasing air circulation and enhancing
comfort.
As a result, it uses a smaller amount of materials derived from

petroleum.
TORAY INDUSTRIES: ENTRANT
Entrant fabric, from the Japanese company Toray Industries, utilises
a waterproof breathable microporous coating which contains pores
measuring 2-3 microns in diameter.
The pores form a honeycomb-like structure.
Vapour can pass through

Because of the honeycomb structure and the size of the pores, rain and
but rain and water droplets water droplets are too large to penetrate the coating. However, vapour
are too big to penetrate
is able to pass through effectively.
The exterior of Entrant is
coated with a DWR finish
As well as having a waterproof breathable microporous coating, the

exterior of Entrant fabric is coated with a DWR finish.
Toray has developed

variants of Entrant
Toray Industries has developed variants of Entrant which are tailormade for specific applications.
Toray is one of the worlds

leaders in waterproof
breathable technology
Toray Industries is one of the worlds leaders in waterproof breathable

technology. The company made its first attempt to produce fabrics
which were both waterproof and permeable to moisture in 1979.
Its products provide

different levels of
waterproofness and
breathability
Today, the company produces a wide range of products in the

waterproof breathable category. Each product provides a different level
of waterproofness and breathability.
The Gore-Tex brand,

whose trademarked
promise is Guaranteed
to Keep You Dry, has
become synonymous with
waterproof protection
56
W L GORE & ASSOCIATES: GORE-TEX

The Gore-Tex brand, whose trademarked promise is Guaranteed to
Keep You Dry, represents an industry benchmark.
The brand name Gore-Tex has become synonymous with waterproof
protection to the point where it is used by some as a generic termin
the same way that Lycra has become a generic term for stretch fabrics
for performance apparel.
Gore-Tex fabrics are

formed by laminating
a Gore-Tex membrane
to a textile
Gore-Tex fabrics are formed by laminating a Gore-Tex membrane to

a textile. The membrane is made from an expanded
polytetrafluoroethylene (ePTFE) microporous polymeric film which
has around 1.4 bn pores per cm2. Each pore is one 20,000th of the size
of a water droplet, but is 700 times as large as a molecule of water
vapour. As a result, water droplets can not penetrate the membrane,
but moisture vapour can easily escape.
The membrane repels oily

substances which might
block pores and
compromise breathability
The ePTFE membrane also contains an oleophobic substance which

prevents contamination of the structure from oily substances. Without
the oleophobic additive, such substances could block the pores of the
membrane and compromise breathability.
The membrane technology

used in Gore-Tex fabric is
different from technologies
used in competing fabrics
The membrane technology used in Gore-Tex fabric is different from

technologies used in competing fabrics. The latter are typically based
on polyurethane which can degrade when exposed to cold weather,
flexing and chemicals.
Gore-Tex withstands a range In addition to withstanding such degradation, Gore-Tex is not damaged
of potentially harmful
by salt water, bleach, detergents, chemicals used in dry cleaning or
substances and UV radiation exposure to UV radiation.
has launched a new
generation of fabrics
W L Gore & Associates has been trying to maintain its stronghold in

the waterproof breathable category of outdoor wear by launching a
new generation of fabrics. These include:
Gore-Tex
Gore-Tex
Gore-Tex
Gore-Tex
Gore-Tex
Gore-Tex
Performance Shell;
Paclite Shell;
Soft Shell;
Pro Shell;
Pro; and
Active Shell.
Gore-Tex Performance
Shell is made in 2-layer
and 3-layer versions,
and Gore-Seam tape
technology is used to make
all seams waterproof
Gore-Tex Performance Shell is made in 2-layer and 3-layer versions.

Both versions have face textiles which are soft and offer high
performance. The 3-layer version also has a special lining.
Gore-Tex Paclite Shell,

which was the worlds first
2.5-layer fabric, is
lightweight and compact
Gore-Tex Paclite Shell, as its name suggests, is lightweight and

compact, and can be easily packed away into a small bag.
In addition, a special Gore-Seam tape technology16 is used to ensure

that all seams are 100% waterproof.
It was introduced in the mid-1990s as the worlds first waterproof

breathable 2.5-layer fabric.
16
Gore-Seam tape technology uses seam tape to seal tiny holes created by sewing machine needles when
Gore-Tex fabric is made into garments. W L Gore & Associates claims that this method ensures that all
seams are 100% waterproof.
57
The outer face is made

from polyester or nylon
The outer face of the fabric is made from high performance polyester
or nylon.
The membrane is covered

by a protective layer
The membrane is covered by a protective layer made from an

oleophobic substance and carbon.
Gore-Tex Soft Shell is a

3-layer fabric with a lining
made from a soft fleecelike material
Gore-Tex Soft Shell is a 3-layer fabric, constructed with an outer

face, a membrane and a lining. The outer face is made from a soft
high performance fabric while the lining is made from a soft
fleece-like material. The fabric is durably waterproof17, windproof and
breathable.
Gore-Tex Pro Shell fabric

is abrasion resistant,
waterproof and breathable,
and is available in 2-layer
or 3-layer form
Gore-Tex Pro Shell fabric is tear resistant and abrasion resistant, and
garments made from the fabric are said to be tough as well as
waterproof and breathable.
The fabric is available in either 2-layer form or 3-layer form.
The 2-layer construction has The 2-layer construction has a Gore-Tex membrane laminated to the
a Gore-Tex membrane
inside of the outer material.
whose inner face is protected
by a separate lining
The inner face of the membrane is protected by a separate lining.
There is also a 2-layer
insulated construction with
a heat insulation layer
There is also a 2-layer insulated construction in which a heat

insulation layer is suspended freely between the 2-layer laminate and
the separate inside lining.
In the 3-layer version, an

inner lining is bonded to
the Gore-Tex membrane
In the case of the 3-layer construction, a Gore-Tex membrane is

bonded to a tough outer material as well as to a specially developed
robust inner lining.
Gore-Seam tape is used to

ensure that all seams are
100% waterproof
Again, Gore-Seam tape technology is used in garments made from

Gore-Tex Pro Shell fabric to ensure that all seams are 100%
waterproof.
Gore-Tex Pro fabric is

produced using a
multilayer ePTFE
membrane with more than
1.4 bn pores per cm2
which does not allow
water droplets to penetrate
but allows moisture
vapour to escape easily
Gore-Tex Pro is described as a technological leap forward in rugged,

breathable, waterproof protection. The fabric, which took more than
four years to develop, is produced using a multilayer membrane made
from 100% ePTFE.
The membrane contains more than 1.4 bn microscopic pores per cm2
of fabric which are approximately 20,000 times smaller than a drop of
water but 700 times bigger than a molecule of moisture vapour. As a
result, water droplets can not penetrate the membrane but moisture can
escape easily.
17
W L Gore & Associates defines durable waterproofness as the ability of a fabric to keep water out over
prolonged periods in harsh conditions and demanding applications.
58
Also, the ePTFE structure

is oleophobic
Also, the ePTFE structure is oleophobic and creates a physical barrier

against contaminating substances such as oils, cosmetics and food
substances.
Gore-Tex Pro is said to be

10-28% more breathable
than Gore-Tex Pro Shell
fabric
Gore-Tex Pro is an improved version of the companys Gore-Tex

Pro Shell fabric. It is said to be 10-28% more breathable than
previous versions of Gore-Tex Pro Shell and to be more comfortable as
a result.

recommends that the
yarns used to weave the
outer fabric should have
deniers ranging between
40 and 200
It has a lightweight outer fabric which provides a greater level of

breathability than a densely woven outer fabric. The level of
breathability achieved depends on the denier of the yarns used to
weave the outer fabric to which the multilayer membrane is laminated.
W L Gore & Associates recommends that the yarns used to weave the
outer fabric should have deniers ranging between 40 and 200.
Gore-Tex Pro is also highly

durable as the inner side of
the membrane is covered
with Gore Micro Grid
Backer fabric which is
resistant to tearing and
ripping
Gore-Tex Pro is also highly durable. The inner side of the membrane is
covered with Gore Micro Grid Backer fabric which is resistant to
tearing and ripping. The fabric is woven using special reinforcing
techniques, whereby the yarns are interwoven at regular intervals in a
cross-hatch pattern.
Figure 5
Gore-Tex Pro
Source: W L Gore & Associates
Gore-Tex Active Shell

comprises a lining, a high
performance textile and a
thin, lightweight membrane
Gore-Tex Active Shell fabric has three layers: a lining, a high

performance textile and a membrane. The company claims that the
membrane is lighter and thinner than membranes used in earlier
Gore-Tex shell fabrics.
It is made using a new

lamination technology
which provides it with a
high level of breathability
The laminate is manufactured using a new lamination technology

which provides it with a high level of breathability. In addition, it has
moisture management properties, and is durable, waterproof and
windproof.
Garments made from the

fabric have good moisture
wicking properties
Garments made from the fabric are said to be able to wick moisture
away from the skin quickly, thus helping the wearer to stay dry and
comfortable during exercise.
59
OUTLOOK
Significant innovations have
enhanced the wear comfort
of waterproof breathable fabrics for outdoor enthusiasts
although the latter continue
to express dissatisfaction
Significant innovations in waterproof breathable fabrics have played

a key role in enhancing the wear comfort of outdoor enthusiasts.
New fabrics such as Polartec

NeoShell and Dry.Q claim
to fulfil demands for
greater breathability
Suppliers of outdoor wear have been quick to address this issueto

their creditand new fabrics such as Polartecs Polartec NeoShell and
Mountain Hardwears Dry.Q claim to fulfil demands for greater
breathability.
These fabrics may able to

loosen the grip that GoreTex has on the market
These ultra-breathable fabrics also have the potential to loosen the

iron grip that Gore-Tex has had on the high performance outdoor
apparel market.
The pace of innovation is set

to increase as manufacturers
aim to boost the breathability of their products
The pace of innovation in this market is set to increase as fabric

manufacturers scramble to boost the breathability ratings of their
products without compromising on existing functional characteristics
such as waterproofness and durability.
Innovation will also be

driven by growing demand
for environmentally
friendly products offering
high levels of performance
and durability
Innovation will also be driven by growing demand for fluorine-free

alternatives to conventional waterproof breathable technologies.
60
Nonetheless, many of these enthusiasts continue to express

dissatisfaction with the performance of these fabricsespecially with
regard to breathability.
A key challenge will be to develop environmentally friendly products

which offer a high level of performance and durability.
Profile of Jack Wolfskin
Profile of Jack Wolfskin: a

premium outdoor apparel brand
SUMMARY
Jack Wolfskin, established in 1981, is a leading Germany-based supplier of functional outdoor
clothing, footwear and equipment. Over the years, the company has built up a vast distribution
network and today its products are sold in more than 800 franchise stores and in over 4,000 other
points of sale across Europe and Asia.
The Jack Wolfskin brand has enjoyed growing popularity among outdoor enthusiasts and, as a result,
the companys sales have grown at highly creditable rates over the past ten years. Not surprisingly,
the company has attracted the attention of several private equity firms, and in 2011 it was purchased
by Blackstone Groupone of the largest of these firmsas the latter saw the companys potential for
future growth. The key to this growth lies in international expansion. This is already well under way,
as is evidenced by the companys penetration into the South American market and franchise
negotiations in more established markets in Europe and Asia.
It is noteworthy that the company is aiming to achieve its expansion goals while simultaneously
following a rigorous corporate social responsibility (CSR) agendawhich involves the elimination and
replacement of chemicals routinely used by makers of outdoor apparel, including fluorocarbons for
waterproof breathable garments. In meeting this agenda, the company will no doubt have to overhaul
its current supply chain as it develops alternative production methods which are more environmentally
friendlyand this is likely to result in higher costs. Nonetheless, the company is cautiously optimistic
about its financial prospects, not least because it enjoys a solid position in a market which has good
potential for growth.
INTRODUCTION
Jack Wolfskin is one of
Europes leading suppliers
of functional outdoor
clothing, footwear and
equipment, and is the
largest franchiser in the
specialist sports retail
market in Germany
Jack Wolfskin1, based in Idstein, Germanysome 50 km north-west

of Frankfurtemploys around 700 workers, and is one of Europes
leading suppliers of functional outdoor clothing, footwear and
equipment.
It is also the largest franchiser in the specialist sports retail market in
Germany.
The companys overriding goal is to encourage as many people as
possible to lead an active life outdoors.
The name Jack Wolfskin was inspired partly by The Call of the Wild, a novel by Jack London published in
1903, and partly by the howling of wolves which the companys employees imagined could be heard in the
distance from campfires in the Canadian wilderness.
61
Jack Wolfskin opened its

first store in Germany
in 1993 and quickly
became a favourite
outdoor brand
Jack Wolfskin opened its first store in Heidelberg in Germany in

1993. Thereafter, it quickly became a favourite outdoor brand in
Germany as its high quality products, iconic paw print logo and
mottoAt Home Outdoorsstruck a chord with alpine climbers,
hikers, skiers and other outdoor enthusiasts.
The Jack Wolfskin brand

is associated with
products which are
functional, durable and
innovatively designed
The Jack Wolfskin brand is associated with products which are

functional, durable and innovatively designed. These attributes have
enabled the company to command premium prices and attract a loyal
customer base. They have also helped it to compete successfully
against its two main rivals, The North Face and Columbia Sportswear.
COMPANY DEVELOPMENT
Jack Wolfskin was
established in 1981
Jack Wolfskin is a relatively young company, having been established

in 1981.
In 1991 the company

was sold to Johnson
Outdoors
In 1991, just ten years after its establishment, the company was sold
to Johnson Outdoorsa leading provider of outdoor recreation
products based in the USA.
In 2002 it was sold to

Bain Capital for
Euro42 mn and in 2005
it was sold to two investors
for Euro 93 mn
In 2002 Johnson Outdoors sold Jack Wolfskin to Bain Capital, a

USA-based private equity firm, for Euro42 mn (US$40 mn).
In 2011 these two investors

sold it to Blackstone
Group in a deal thought to
be worth Euro700 mn
In 2011 these two investors sold Jack Wolfskin to USA-based

Blackstone Group, one of the worlds largest private equity firms, in
a deal which industry analysts believe was worth Euro700 mnmore
than 16 times the amount paid by Bain Capital ten years previously.
Under this ownership, its

focus is on international
expansion
Under the ownership of Blackstone Group, Jack Wolfskin

has sharpened its focus on expanding its international
presence.
In 2013 it entered into an

agreement with Heightsport
to open stores and concessions in five countries
in South America
Indeed, in July 2013 Jack Wolfskin entered into a partnership

agreement with Heightsporta South American retailer of sportswear
and outdoor apparelto open Jack Wolfskin stores and concessions3
in Bolivia, Chile, Colombia, Ecuador and Peru.
Ownership of Jack Wolfskin changed hands once again in 2005 when

Bain Capital sold the company to two investorsnamely Quadriga
Capital and Barclays Private Equity2for Euro93 mn.
Barclays Private Equity was renamed Equistone Partners Europe following a management buy-out in
November 2011.
3
A concession is a small retail outlet which is located in an allocated area of another store, usually a
department store.
62
The first store was opened

in Pucn, Chile, and Jack
Wolfskin products are also
sold in 17 Heightsport
retail outlets in Ecuador
The first Jack Wolfskin store was opened in Pucn, Chile4one of

South Americas most popular destinations for outdoor
enthusiastson July 13, 2013.
Jack Wolfskins products are also sold by Heightsport in 17 of its
retail outlets in Ecuador.
PRODUCTS AND APPLICATIONS

Jack Wolfskin specialises
in the supply of functional
outdoor apparel for use in
a number of applications
Jack Wolfskin specialises in the supply of functional outdoor

apparel, accessories and equipment for use in the following
applications:
alpine climbing;
trekking;
hiking; and
active trail5.
It offers apparel for men,

women and children, and
its products are functional,
user friendly and
innovative
The company has a comprehensive range of apparel for men, women

and children.
and comply with

The products also comply with the requirements laid out in Oeko-Tex
Standard 1006, and in many instances exceed them.
Its apparel products are said to feature a high degree of functionality,

user friendliness and innovation.
Table 1: Jack Wolfskin: product range, 2013

Mens wear
Womens wear
Childrens wear
Accessories
Fleece tops, jackets, pants, shirts, underwear

Fleece tops, jackets, pants, shirts, skirts, underwear
Fleece tops, jackets, pants, shirts, sweaters, underwear
Belts, boots, gaiters, gloves, headwear, pant suspenders,
scarves, shoes, socks
Equipment
Camera bags, laptop bags, mats, rucksacks, sleeping bags,
tents, travel bags
Travel accessories
Bottles, cups, hip bags, mobile phone pouches, neck pouches,
rain covers, towels, wallets, wash bags
Care products
Cleaning and impregnation agents, down detergent, weather
protection cream for shoes
Source: Jack Wolfskin.
Most garments are made

from polyester, polyamide
and blends thereof
4
Most garments are made from polyester, polyamide and blends

thereof, and many boast features which enhance performance and
comfort.
See also Jack Wolfskin has opened its first store in South America, on page 93 of this issue.
Jack Wolfskin defines active trail as a highly active outdoor pursuit which requires little or no baggage.
Examples include running up coastal hills.
6
Products complying with the requirements laid out in Oeko-Tex Standard 100 are certified as being free
from substances which are harmful to humans and the environment.
63
and many boast

features which enhance
performance and comfort
Such features include:
Garments for children

have additional features
which reduce the risk of
accidents
Garments for children have additional features which reduce the risk
of accidents. All garments incorporate high visibility materials. Also,
objects such as drawstrings and fastenings for buttons and zip tabs
have been designed in such a way as to reduce the risk of them
catching on objects or being swallowed.
close-fitting cuffs;
fabric reinforcements in areas prone to abrasion, such as elbows
and knees;
fleece lined collars;
ventilation zips which improve air circulation; and
water repellent zips.
Table 2: Jack Wolfskin: high performance outdoor garments

Product
Activate Pants Women
Arco Hoody Women
Anchorage Parka Men
Description
Softshell pants
Fleece top
Waterproof down parka
Composition
Polyamide, elastane
Polyester
Polyester, down,
polypropylene
Avalanche Jacket Men
Windproof and snowproof

skiing jacket
Polyester, polyamide,
elastane
Mandu Peak Men
A double jacket comprising a Polyester, polyamide,

shell jacket and an inner
elastane
jacket which can be zipped
together
Long johns
Merino wool
Waterproof softshell jacket
Polyester, polyamide
Merino 3/4 Tights Men

Supercharge Jacket Men
Features
Adjustable hem; articulated knees
Close-fitting hood; high collar
Ventilation zip across the chest;
removable hood; fleece cuffs; powder
skirt
Detachable hood; underarm ventilation
zips; close-fitting cuffs with
thumbhole; powder skirt
Underarm ventilation zips; integral
hood; high collar
Insulating and antimicrobial properties

Underarm ventilation zips; roll-up
hood; powder skirt
Jack Wolfskins products

are popular among hikers
and mountaineers, and its
apparel products have
gained strong appeal among
consumers of casual wear
Jack Wolfskins products are said to enjoy strong popularity among

hikers and mountaineers.
Moreover, its apparel products have gained strong appeal among
consumers of casual wear, not least because of their functionality,
fashionable styling and vivid range of colours.
PRODUCT INNOVATIONS
Jack Wolfskin recognises
that innovative technologies
are important in
differentiating products
and attracting consumer
demand, and so the
company invests heavily in
research and development
64
Like many companies operating at the high end of the performance

apparel market, Jack Wolfskin recognises that innovative technologies
are becoming increasingly important as a means of differentiating
products and attracting consumer demand.
The company therefore invests heavily in research and development
with a view to making its products even more versatile and user
friendly.
Figure 1
Jack Wolfskin mens jacket
Figure 2
Jack Wolfskin womens pants
Source: Jack Wolfskin
Figure 3
Jack Wolfskin childrens long sleeve top
Figure 4
Jack Wolfskin mens trekking shoe
Figure 5
Jack Wolfskin womens rucksack
Figure 6
Jack Wolfskin sleeping bag
65
It has introduced several

product innovations and
holds several patents
In recent years, it has introduced a number of product innovations and

holds several patents for technologies used in its garments, rucksacks
and tents.
The product innovations

for which Jack Wolfskin
is perhaps best known
are Texapore, Fibercloud
and Nanuk
The product innovations for which Jack Wolfskin is perhaps best

known are:
Texapore;
Fibercloud; and
Nanuk.
Texapore is a waterproof
breathable fabric
TEXAPORE
Texapore is a waterproof breathable fabric which is manufactured
using membranes and coatings made from polyurethane to achieve its
waterproof breathable properties.
It is available in over 40
different types
The fabric is available in over 40 different types, and each has a

specific level of waterproofness and breathability.
The company has

developed ten levels
of waterproof
breathability
The company has developed ten levels of waterproof breathability, as

follows.
Four levels are based on a microporous coating which is securely
bonded to a shell fabric.
Another four levels are based on the use of pore-free membranes.
The remaining two levels are based on a hybrid technology which
involves the use of a combination of coatings and membranes.
Table 3: Jack Wolfskin: waterproofness and breathability ratings of Texapore
fabrics
Waterproof rating
Breathability rating
(g/m2/24 hours)b
(mm H2O)a
Texapore
10,000
9,000
Texapore Air O2+
5,000
>15,000
Texapore Air O3+
5,000
30,000
Texapore O2
20,000
15,000-20,000
Texapore O3 Smoothlight Softshell
20,000
25,000-30,000
Texapore O4
20,000
35,000-40,000
Texapore Hyproof O3
40,000
30,000
a
Hydrostatic head (see page 29). b Moisture vapour transfer rate (MVTRsee
page 31).
The level of waterproof

breathability required for
a garment depends on the
outdoor activity for which
the garment is intended
66
The level of waterproof breathability required for a garment made

from Texapore fabric is determined by the particular outdoor activity
for which the garment is intended. For example, jackets for alpine
hiking use a triple-layered fabric construction which has very high
levels of waterproofness and breathability.
Texapore fabric is offered

in three main versions,
each of which is designed
for a specific activity level
Fibercloud is a fibrefill
material which provides
almost as much warmth
as down, but also has the
favourable attributes of
synthetic fibres
Texapore fabric is offered in three main versions, each of which is

designed for a specific activity level, namely:
stretch;
extra lightweight; and
extra robust.
FIBERCLOUD
Fibercloud is a fibrefill material which combines the benefits of
natural insulating materials, notably down, with those of their
synthetic counterparts.
The material provides almost as much warmth as down as it has a
similar loft or fill power7. However, it also has the favourable
attributes of synthetic fibres, such as easy care and quick drying
properties.
It is made from a mix of

microfibres and hollow fibres
which are balled together in
a cloud-like structure
Fibercloud is made from a mix of microfibres and hollow fibres of

different lengths, shapes and deniers. These fibres are balled together
in a cloud-like structure and are packed loosely into baffles8 where
they can achieve their full lofting capability.
The insulation properties

of Fibercloud are said to
be unaffected by dampness
According to Jack Wolfskin, the insulation properties of Fibercloud

are unaffected by dampnessunlike the insulation properties of
conventional down.
Nanuk is a lightweight and

yet hard-wearing fleece
which has a pile on both
surfaces so perspiration is
wicked away while body
heat is retained
The fabric is available
in three versions which
provide different
amounts of insulation
NANUK
Nanuk is a lightweight and yet hard-wearing fleece which is said to
provide an optimal balance of insulation and breathability.
The fabric has a pile on both surfaces which helps to wick
perspiration away from the skin but also helps to retain body
heat.
The fabric is available in three versions, namely:
Nanuk 100, which is the lightest in weight and provides the least
amount of insulation;
Nanuk 200, which is medium weight and provides a moderate
amount of insulation; and
Nanuk 300, which is the heaviest in weight and provides the
greatest amount of insulation.
Fill power is a measure of the fluffiness of a down product. The higher the fill power of the down, the
more insulating air pockets the down has and the better its insulating ability. Fill power is measured in units
of cuin (cubic inches). Fibercloud has a cuin of 500, which means that 1 oz (28 g) of the material occupies a
volume of 500 cubic inches (0.008 m3) under a particular pressure.
A baffle is a chamber between two pieces of fabric which holds insulating material. Baffles are designed to
prevent the insulating material from moving around inside a garment or a sleeping bag.
67
PRODUCT SOURCING
Jack Wolfskin outsources
the manufacture of its
products to a total of 78
facilities in 14 countries
Jack Wolfskin outsources the manufacture of its outdoor apparel,

accessories and equipment to a total of 78 facilities in 14 countries.
More than half of the companys suppliers are based in China and
Vietnam.
It has a systematic
approach to monitoring
its supplier factories
The company has put in place a highly organised and systematic

approach to monitoring its supplier factories, and carries out audits of
its production sites frequently.
In September 2013 the

company made a bold
move by publishing a list
of its manufacturers
In September 2013 the company made a bold move by publishing a

list of its manufacturers (Table 4) and making this list available online
via its website. In doing so, it made its production and supply chain
more transparent.
DISTRIBUTION, SALES AND MARKETING
Jack Wolfskin supplies its

products from a distribution
centre in Neu Wulmstorf,
Germany, which is close to
the Port of Hamburg
DISTRIBUTION
Jack Wolfskin supplies its products from a distribution centre in
Neu Wulmstorf, Germany. The centre went into operation in 2010 and
has modern facilities.
Furthermore, it is close to the Port of Hamburg, a location which is
considered ideal as the large bulk of the companys products are
shipped from factories in Asia.
The centre has room for

expansion to accommodate
sales growth in the future
The centre occupies a space of over 40,000 m2, and can be expanded
by 10,000 m2 in order to accommodate sales growth in the years
ahead.
Jack Wolfskin boasts an

ability to supply stocks
of merchandise at very
short notice
Jack Wolfskin boasts an ability to supply stocks of merchandise at

very short notice. Indeed, up to 30% of a stores orders can be
fulfilled in one day and the remainder of the order can be fulfilled
usually by the next day.
Products from the

centre are distributed
through three
distribution channels
Products from the centre are distributed through three distribution

channels, namely:
68
stores;
catalogues; and
online retailing.
Table 4: Jack Wolfskin: suppliers, 2013

Name
Bangladesh
Youngone (CEPZ)
Youngone Hi-Tech Sportswear Industries
Bulgaria
TFT Trend Fashion Textil
Trend Fashion Textile Rakovski
Cambodia
Ming Da Footwear
QMI Industrial
China
Anhui Jiahai Clothes & Ornament
Beijing Century Beauty
Beijing Oceano Apparel
Beijing Wanxing Clothing
Fujian Putian Unionwin Import and Export
Fujian Quanzhou Blue Fish Shoes
Hongfeng Shoes & Garments
JFC Apparel
Jiangsu Asian Sourcing Headwear
Jinjiang Longshine Shoes
LeCrown Shoes Industry
Ming Rui Footwear Industrial
Ningbo Gas & Fogagent
Ningbo Xin Cheng Shoes
Putian Xiang Guan Footwear
Shanghai Challenge Garment
Shanghai Solid Stainless Steel
Shanghai Yangfan Sleeping Bag
Shanghai Yike Tent Manufacture
Shuang Yang Footwear
Shunde Top Standing Products
Tseng; Hsuan Ling Sleeping Bag Enterprise
Tseng; Jiujiang Zhanda Clothing
Yangzhou Huamao Craftwork
Youngtech (Dong Guan)
Yudu County Jiangkai Sports Products
India
Euro Clothing Company
Gokaldas Exports
Gokaldas India
The Cotton and Textile Corporation
Usha Garments Mfg
Indonesia
PT Ameya Livingstyle
PT Citra Abadi Sejati
PT Jaba Garmindo
PT Kido Jaya
PT Sungintex
PT Trigoldenstar Wisesa
Location
Chittagong
Dhaka
Krichim
Rakovski
Khet
Phnom Penh
Fuyang
Beijing
Hebei
Beijing
Fujian
Quanzhou
Chendai
Heshan City
Huai An City
Jinjiang City
Fujian
Fujian
Ningbo City
Zhejiang
Fujian
Shanghai
Shanghai
Shanghai
Shanghai
Fujian
Guangdong
Guangdong
Jiangxi
Zhejiang
Guangdong
Jiangxi
Bangalore
Chennai
Bangalore
Tirupur
Gujarat
Yogyakarta
Bogor
Tangerang
Karawang
Bantar Gebang
Bekasi
Karawang
Name
Italy
Insocks
Interknit
Intermed die Verardo Andrea & CS
Intersocks
New Kokos
Romania
SC Galway Sport
Slovenia
Interconf
Intersocks
Recinko
South Korea
Naschem
Taiwan
Foam Tex
Thailand
Hong Lin Manufacturing
Hong Lin Manufacturing
Lee-Lin Apparel
VT Garment
Yuan Jiou Garment
Turkey
Pantera I ve Ds Tic
Vietnam
ASG Vina
Astro Saigon
Bac Giang Garment
Cong Ty Tnhh Cn-Tm Minh Nghe
Dong Tien Joint Stock Company
Elegant Team Manufacture
Han Viet
Ho Guom Garment Joint Stock
Company
Kaiyang Vietnam
Kido Hanoi
May Hai Joint Stock Company
MK IMEX
Moland
Northern Textiles and Garment
Joint Stock Company
Prex Vinh
Shints BVT
Viet Thang Garment Joint Stock
Company
Viva Saigon
Location
Pieve DAlpago
Pieve DAlpago
Ghedi
Pieve DAlpago
Pieve DAlpago
Aiud
Kocevje
Kocevje
Kocevje
Incheon
Tachung County
Bangkok
Buriram
Bangkok
Bangkok
Maesod
Istanbul
Binh Duong
Ho Chi Minh City
Bac Giang
Ho Chi Minh City
Dong Nai
Que Vo
Ho Chi Minh City
Ban Yen Nhan
Haiphong
Hung Yen
Hai Phong
Ho Chi Minh City
Dong Nai
Hanoi
Do Luong
Thach Khoi Commune
Ho Chi Minh City
Ho Chi Minh City
69
Jack Wolfskins products

are sold by more than
4,000 retailers and through
its own stores
Stores
Jack Wolfskins products are sold by more than 4,000 retailers
primarily outdoor sporting goods specialistsacross Europe.
Its products are also sold through more than 800 Jack Wolfskin stores,
most of which are operated on a franchise basis.
The size of the companys

stores varies widely
The size of the companys stores varies widely, from just 75 m2 to

700 m2.
The stores are located in

prime shopping locations
The stores are located in prime shopping locations, including airports

and areas which attract outdoor enthusiasts.
The company has focused

on expanding the number
of its stores,
predominantly in Asia
Over the past two years, the company has focused on expanding the
number of its stores. Most of the expansion has been in Asia.
Indeed, between March 2012 and May 2013, it increased the number
of its stores in China and South Korea by 47%. In absolute terms, the
increase amounted to 158 stores, which accounted for more than 85%
of the total number of Jack Wolfskin stores opened worldwide during
this period.
Table 5: Jack Wolfskin: number of stores by country, 2012 and 2013
No of stores
2013b
Country
2012a
China
322
459
Germany
235
246
South Korea
14
35
Austria
17
22
Switzerland
12
12
Belgium
8
9
UK
7
7
Italy
6
7
Poland
2
5
France
4
4
Luxembourg
4
4
Russia
1
3
Netherlands
2
1
Slovenia
0
1
Turkey
0
1
Total
634
816
a
As at March 1, 2012. b As at May 8, 2013.
Change
2013/12
137
11
21
5
0
1
0
1
3
0
0
2
-1
1
1
182
Catalogues
Catalogues are distributed in Catalogues are distributed in Jack Wolfskin stores or sent out by post
Jack Wolfskin stores or sent to consumers. At the start of each new season, the catalogues print
out by post to consumers
run exceeds 800,000 copies.
Online retailing
Online sales are generated by Online sales are generated by Jack Wolfskins own online
Jack Wolfskins own online storewhich can be accessed via www.jack-wolfskin.comas well
store and online stores owned as from online stores owned by online retailers with whom the
company has established a partnership.
by other online retailers
70
Overall, Jack Wolfskins

sales are heavily skewed
towards Europe although
sales in China are set to
grow following a large
increase in the number of
stores in the country
SALES
Jack Wolfskins sales are heavily skewed towards Europe in general,
and Austria and Germany in particular.
Overall, however, they are derived from a large number of markets
around the world and sales in China are set to grow significantly as a
result of a large increase in the number of stores in the country between
March 1, 2012, and May 8, 2013 (see Table 5).
Between 2003/04 and 2010/11, Between the companys 2003/04 financial year and its 2010/11
sales rose every year at dou- financial year9, sales rose every year at double digit percentage growth
rates.
ble digit percentage rates
In 2011/12, however, sales
declined by 1.1% due to
sluggishness in core
European markets
In 2011/12, however, sales declined by 1.1%, in contrast to a 16.7%

increase in 2010/11. The decline in sales was attributed to sluggishness
in core European markets as a result of weakness in consumer spending
and unfavourable weather conditions.
On a positive note, sales of

apparel rose by 5%
during 2011/12
On a positive note, sales of apparel rose by 5% during 2011/12 and

major gains in sales were recorded in Asia, Eastern Europe and the UK.
Figure 7
Jack Wolfskin: sales, 2003/04-2011/12

(Euro mn)
400
355.0
351.0
304.2
300
251.4
205.5
200
156.3
129.6
100
97.4
73.0
0
2003/04 2004/05 2005/06 2006/07 2007/08 2008/09 2009/10 2010/11 2011/12
NB: years are financial years ending September 30
Jack Wolfskin relies

heavily on sponsorships
to promote its brand
MARKETING
In common with other companies in the outdoor apparel industry,
Jack Wolfskin relies heavily on sponsorships to promote its
brand.
Some of its sponsorships

are not associated with
the activities for which
its products are designed
In particular, the company sponsors a number of athletic teams,

expeditions, organisations, clubs and events, although some of these
are not associated with the activities for which its products are
designed.
Years are financial years ending September 30.
71
In 2010 Jack Wolfskin

became an official sponsor of
Liverpool Football Club in a
bid to attract new customer
groups and increase its
recognition in the UK
In 2010 Jack Wolfskin became an official sponsor of Liverpool

Football Club, an English Premier League football club.
In July 2013 Jack

Wolfskin announced
that it was to give its
corporate identity a
makeover in order to
revamp its brand image
and promote its products
In July 2013 Jack Wolfskin announced that it was to give its corporate
identity a makeover in order to revamp its brand image and promote
its products.
The move was prompted by a desire to attract new customer groups

to the outdoor clothing market and ultimately increase the companys
brand recognition in the UK.
The company has redesigned its paw print logo to give it a fresh look
and will use its At Home Outdoors motto more often. Also, its
clothing collection for the spring/summer 2014 season is expected to
be one of its most attention-grabbing to date.
CORPORATE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY (CSR)

CSR is a core value at Jack
Wolfskin and the company
aims to conduct its business
in an environmentally
sustainable manner
Executives at Jack Wolfskin maintain that corporate social

responsibility (CSR) is a core value at the company, and that the
company intends to prove that conducting its business in an
environmentally sustainable manner will not compromise the quality
of its products or jeopardise the success of its business.
The former CEO of Jack

Wolfskin believed that
doing so would help the
company to develop
successfully
Indeed, according to a statement by the former chief executive officer

(CEO) of the company, Manfred Hell: Jack Wolfskin has always
taken its responsibility to the environment and to the people who
manufacture our products very seriously, and considers it a
fundamental prerequisite for successful company development.
The company has analysed

all its processes and
produced an action plan
to reduce specific CO2
emissions
In a bid to make its operations environmentally sustainable, the

company has analysed all its processes and has produced an action
plan to reduce specific CO2 emissions.
It also participates in a
forestation programme
In addition, the company participates in a forestation programme to

offset the effect of CO2 emissions which it can not feasibly reduce.
For several years, the

company has restricted the
use of hazardous substances
in the manufacture of its
products
For several years, Jack Wolfskin has restricted the use of hazardous
substances in the manufacture of its products. The company is keen
to emphasise that, in many cases, its restrictions are more stringent
than those required by legal regulations or industry standards.
72
It has already made substantial progress on this front. Between 2007

and 2011, for example, it reduced CO2 emissions by more than 50%
thanks to a number of initiatives, including the use of solar energy.
Table 6: Jack Wolfskin: key corporate social responsibility (CSR) initiatives

Date
April 2007
Corporate social responsibility (CSR) initiative

The company published a catalogue containing an overview of requirements relating to contaminants,
and it regulated the use of finishing treatments which may contain PFOSa and PFOAb
June 2007
The company developed a legally binding code of conduct
January 2009
The company decided to stop using harmful substances and it banned the use of finishing treatments
which may contain PFOAb
June 2010
The company became one of the first companies in the outdoor industry to join the Fair Wear
Foundation (FWF)c
July 2010
The company published its first Supplier Social Report
December 2011
The company became a bluesignd system partner
July 2012
The company published its first Environmental Report and second Supplier Social Report
August 2012
The first bluesignd approved materials were used in its clothing
September 2012
The company decided to stop using fluorinated compounds
October 2012
The company joined the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) programmee
February 2013
The company declared that all cotton used in future would be from certified organic sources
September 2013
Rules for restricted substances were made stricter by the company
March 2014
APEOsf and phthalates will be banned by the company
August 2014
Items in collections of travel products are to be free of fluorinated compounds
September 2014
Data on up to 25% of global purchases will be published
December 2014
The use of C8g will be banned by the company
September 2015
Data on up to 50% of global purchases will be published
December 2016
50% of products will be free of PFCsh
December 2018
75% of products will be free of PFCsh
a
Perfluorooctane sulphonate. b Perfluorooctanoic acid. c The Fair Wear Foundation (FWF) is a non-profit organisation which
works with companies and factories to improve working conditions in the clothing industry. d bluesign, developed by
Switzerland-based bluesign technologies, is an environmental, health and safety (EHS) standard for the assessment of
materials and processes used in textile manufacturing; it certifies that a material or process is not harmful to humans or the
environment. e Under the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) programme, a consortium of companies have
pledged to eliminate the use of hazardous chemicals throughout their supply chains and products by 2020. f Alkylphenol
ethoxylates. g A compound which contains eight carbon atoms and 17 fluorine atoms. h Perfluorinated compounds.
In early 2013 the company

launched an action plan
under which it aims to
eliminate pollutants from
its supply chain by 2020
In early 2013 the company launched an action plan under the motto
Going the extra mile. Under this plan, it aims to eliminate pollutants
from its supply chain by 2020.
This will not be an easy

task as alternative
technologies for enhancing
product performance have
proved inferior to those
which involve the use of
such substances
This will by no means be an easy task, given that alternative

technologies for enhancing product performance have proved inferior
to those which involve the use of such substances.
In an effort to achieve these

aims by the 2020 deadline
without compromising the
quality of its products,
Jack Wolfskin has teamed
up with two research
institutes in Germany
Nonetheless, Jack Wolfskin is cautiously optimistic about achieving

these aims. In an effort to achieve these aims by the 2020 deadline
without compromising the quality of its products, the company has
teamed up with two research institutes in Germany, namely
Helmholtz-Zentrum Geesthacht (Zentrum fr Material- und
KstenforschungCentre for Materials and Coastal Research) and
Fresenius University of Applied Sciences.
The company will take a step-by-step approach to the elimination of

hazardous substances in all production processes by that year.
This is especially true in the case of oil repellency, which has

proved to be difficult to achieve using methods which are more
environmentally friendly.
73
The company has already

phased out its use of
finishing treatments which
may contain PFOA as the
latter is thought to be
harmful to human health
The company has already phased out its use of finishing treatments
which may contain perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA)10 as the latter is
thought to be harmful to human health.
It is interesting to note that the decision to scrap the use of such
treatments was voluntary as the EU has not yet defined limits for
PFOA.
OUTLOOK
Jack Wolfskin is confident
about the prospects for its
sales even in the face of
fierce competition
Like many companies operating in the outdoor clothing industry, Jack

Wolfskin is vulnerable to downturns in consumer spending.
Nonetheless, it is confident about the prospects for its sales, even in
the face of fierce competition.
The company has

ambitious plans in place to
strengthen its international
presence, and will focus on
expanding operations in
three markets which have
huge growth potential
The company is encouraged by the success of its brand in markets

where it is already well established, and it has ambitious plans in
place to strengthen its international presence.
The company is likely to

remain a key beneficiary
of a number of favourable
trends in the outdoor
apparel industry
While on its quest for expansion, the company is likely to remain a

key beneficiary of a number of favourable trends in the outdoor
apparel industry, notably:
It sees huge growth potential in a number of markets, and will focus

on expanding operations in three of thesenamely China, Russia and
the UK.
a quest for healthier lifestyles;

increasing participation in outdoor sports and recreational
activities; and
growth in the appeal of technical outdoor apparel for casual wear.
10
Perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) is found in trace amounts in fluorocarbons which are used in a number of
finishes for fabrics. PFOA has been declared likely to be carcinogenic to humans by the US Environmental
Protection Agency (EPA).
74
Business update
Business update
SUMMARY
Several companies have reported increases in their quarterly sales, including Perry Ellis International
(up by 1%), VF Corporation (up by 4%), Unifi (up by 7%), Nike (up by 8%) and Under Armour (up
by 23%). However, falls have been reported by Columbia Sportswear (down by 3%), Quiksilver (also
down by 3%), Adidas (down by 4%) and Puma (down by 8%).
Authentic Brands Group has acquired Spyder Active Sports, and JD Sports Fashion has acquired the
fashion apparel retailer Ark. Columbia Sportswear has entered into an agreement with Chogori India
Retail relating to the distribution of Columbia Sportswear products in India, and Iconix India has
entered into a licensing agreement with Future Lifestyle Fashions relating to the distribution of the
Umbro brand in India. Meanwhile, Unifi has entered into a manufacturing and distribution agreement
with Palmetto Synthetics relating to Unifis Repreve polyester staple fibre. Teijin Aramid will invest
4.5 bn (US$45.0 mn) in developing a new meta-aramid fibre and building a new manufacturing facility
at its existing site in Ayutthaya Province, Thailand, and Burlington Industries has won a contract worth
US$5.3 mn from the US Air Force relating to the supply of microdenier polyester fabric.
Patagonia has officially launched a new garment recycling scheme in four of its stores in the USA
following a successful pilot period, while the Outdoor Industries Association Social Responsibility
Working Group (OIA SRWG) has launched a new online guidebook in order to help outdoor apparel
companies to comply with corporate social responsibility (CSR) guidelines.
Jack Wolfskin has opened its first store in South America, and Matalan has opened a new chain of
sportswear and sports equipment stores, called Sporting Pro, in the UK. Sports Direct is in discussions
with Tesco relating to the opening of Sports Direct stores inside three of Tescos largest UK
hypermarkets, and Ethan Wishnick plans to launch a new brand of performance apparel, called Toren,
in spring 2014. Macys has entered into a licensing agreement with Lids Sports Group relating to the
opening of new sportswear concessions inside Macys stores, and it will expand its offering of
sportswear and activewear in its stores in a bid to attract a greater number of millennial consumers.
ACQUISITIONS, DIVESTMENTS AND MERGERS
Authentic Brands Group

has acquired Spyder
Active Sports, which is
the first outdoor and
winter sports apparel
company in Authentic
Brands Groups portfolio
AUTHENTIC BRANDS GROUP HAS ACQUIRED SPYDER

ACTIVE SPORTS
Authentic Brands Groupa USA-based brand development and
licensing companyhas acquired Spyder Active Sports, a USA-based
manufacturer and retailer of high quality winter sports apparel.
Financial details of the acquisition have not been disclosed.
Spyder Active Sports is the first outdoor and winter sports apparel
company in Authentic Brands Groups portfolio.
75
Business update
Authentic Brands Group

was attracted to acquiring
Spyder Active Sports as the
latter produces highly
technical and fashionable
apparel and is well respected
by outdoor enthusiasts
Authentic Brands Group was attracted to acquiring Spyder Active

Sports as the latter produces highly technical and fashionable apparel
and is well respected by outdoor enthusiasts.
The acquisition will enable

Spyder Active Sports to
expand into new markets
According to the chief executive officer (CEO) of Spyder Active

Sports, Tom McGann, the acquisition will enable the company to
expand into new geographical markets.
Spyder Active Sports has been the official supplier of sportswear to

the US Ski Team since 1989 and the Canadian Alpine Ski Team since
2002.
Authentic Brands Group has In connection with the acquisition, Authentic Brands Group has
entered into two agreements entered into two separate licensing agreements with LF USA and
with LF USA and LF Asia
LF Asia relating to the Spyder Active Sports brand.
LF USA will be the
licensee for the Spyder
Active Sports brand in the
Americas and in EMEA,
and LF Asia will be the
licensee for the brand in
Asia-Pacific
LF USA will act as the exclusive licensee for the Spyder Active
Sports brand in the Americas, and in Europe, the Middle East and
Africa (EMEA).
LF Asia, meanwhile, will act as the exclusive licensee for the brand
in the Asia-Pacific region.
LF USA and LF Asia are subsidiaries of Li & Fung, a multinational
sourcing company.
JD Sports Fashion has

acquired Ark, a fashion
apparel retailer
JD SPORTS FASHION HAS ACQUIRED THE FASHION

APPAREL RETAILER ARK
JD Sports Fashiona UK-based retail group which owns a number of
brandshas acquired Ark, a fashion apparel retailer which is also
based in the UK.
Ark entered into

administration in
June 2013
Ark entered into administration at the end of June 2013 as a result of

financial difficulties. Ark stated that its sales had been affected by
increasing competition from online retailers.
and closed down four

of its 14 stores
During the period for which it was in administration, Ark closed down
four of its 14 stores and made 40 of its 200 employees redundant.
JD Sports Fashion will

own the ten remaining
Ark stores and 160 jobs
have been safeguarded
Under the terms of the acquisition, JD Sports Fashion will own the ten
Ark stores which were not closed. As a result, the jobs of Arks
remaining 160 employees have been safeguarded. Ark will continue
to operate the ten stores from its headquarters in Leeds, UK.
The acquisition forms

part of JD Sports
Fashions ambitious
expansion plans
JD Sports Fashions acquisition of Ark forms part of its ambitious

expansion plans. Indeed, in January 2012 the group acquired Blacks
Leisure Groupa UK-based retail group which owns the Blacks and
Millets outdoor retailersand in February 2013 it acquired Gio Goi,
a UK-based fashion apparel brand.
76
Business update
COMPANY STRATEGY
MACYS WILL EXPAND ITS OFFERING OF SPORTSWEAR
AND ACTIVEWEAR IN A BID TO ATTRACT A GREATER
NUMBER OF MILLENNIAL CONSUMERS
Macys will expand its sports- Macys1, a USA-based department store retailer, will expand its
wear and activewear range to offering of sportswear and activewear in a bid to attract a greater
attract millennial consumers number of millennial consumers2.
Macys has noticed that
millennial consumers who
buy fashion items in its
stores also buy sportswear
or activewear during the
same visit, so it decided to
expand its ranges
Macys has noticed that millennial consumers who purchase fashion

items in its stores frequently purchase items of sportswear or
activewear during the same visit.
Specifically, it will
expand its offerings
of five brands
Specifically, Macys will expand its offerings of:
In addition, it will
introduce Helly Hansen
activewear to its stores
for the first time
In addition, Macys will introduce Helly Hansen activewear to its

stores for the first time. Helly Hansen activewear for men will be
available in 30 of its stores while Helly Hansen activewear for women
will be available in 25 of its stores.
As a result, Macys has decided to expand its sportswear and

activewear ranges to enable it to cater to the needs of its millennial
consumers more fully.
CK Performance activewear for women;

Ideology activewear for women;
Nike sportswear for men, women, boys and girls;
The North Face activewear for men, women, boys and girls; and
Under Armour activewear for men, women and boys.
Patagonia has launched a

new garment recycling
scheme in four of its stores
in the USA
PATAGONIA HAS OFFICIALLY LAUNCHED A NEW

GARMENT RECYCLING SCHEME IN FOUR OF ITS
STORES IN THE USA FOLLOWING A SUCCESSFUL
PILOT PERIOD
Patagonia3a USA-based retailer of outdoor apparelhas officially
launched a new garment recycling scheme, called Worn Wear, in four
of its stores in the USA.
See also Profiles of six leading US apparel retailers, Global Apparel Markets, No 22, 2nd quarter 2013.
Millennial consumers are consumers aged between 13 and 30 years.
See also Profile of Patagonia: a pioneer in corporate social responsibility (CSR), Performance Apparel
Markets, No 44, 1st quarter 2013.
77
Business update
following a successful
pilot version of the scheme
at a store in Portland
The garment recycling scheme was launched following the success of

a pilot version of the scheme at a Patagonia store in Portland, Oregon,
USA.
The scheme has now been

launched officially in the
Portland store and three
other stores
As the pilot version proved to be extremely popular with consumers,

the scheme has now been launched officially in the Portland store as
well as in three other Patagonia storesin Chicago, Palo Alto and
Seattle.
Under the scheme, consum- Under the scheme, a consumer is able to hand in items of Patagonia
ers can hand in unwanted or clothing which are damaged or which he or she no longer has use
damaged Patagonia clothing for.
In return, they will
receive a voucher which
can be redeemed against
new Patagonia products
In return for each item the consumer hands in, he or she will receive
a voucher with a value equal to 50% of the original price of the item.
The voucher can be redeemed against new Patagonia products in
physical Patagonia stores or via the online Patagonia store.
Patagonia will resell items

in good condition via its
online store, and will
recycle as many elements as
possible of the remainder
Patagonia will resell items which are in good condition via the Worn
Wear section of its online store.
According to the vicepresident of marketing at

Patagonia, the scheme will
help to put good products
back in circulation
When news of the scheme was announced, the vice-president of

marketing at Patagonia, Vincent Stanley, said: If a company makes
something good, you want it to stay in circulation. We wanted to
make it easier for customers to put things back in circulation,
particularly expensive items.
OIA SRWG has launched a

new guidebook to help outdoor apparel companies to
comply with CSR guidelines
THE OUTDOOR INDUSTRIES ASSOCIATION SOCIAL

RESPONSIBILITY WORKING GROUP (OIA SRWG) HAS
LAUNCHED A NEW ONLINE GUIDEBOOK TO HELP
OUTDOOR APPAREL COMPANIES TO COMPLY WITH
GUIDELINES
The Outdoor Industries Association Social Responsibility Working
Group (OIA SRWG) has launched a new online guidebook to help
outdoor apparel companies to comply with corporate social
responsibility (CSR) guidelines.
OIA SRWG is a division

of the Outdoor Industries
Association (OIA)
The OIA SRWG is a division of the Outdoor Industries Association

(OIA) and was set up to explore issues relating to CSR in the outdoor
apparel industry.
The guidebook was

developed because many
outdoor apparel companies
find it difficult to establish
CSR strategies
The OIA SRWG developed the guidebook after learning that many
outdoor apparel companies were finding it difficult to establish CSR
strategies because they found existing information regarding CSR
strategies to be too complex and to contain too much jargon.
78
For those items which Patagonia can not resell, it will aim to recycle
as many elements as possible of each item.
Business update
The guidebook explains why

it is beneficial to implement
such a strategy and how a
company can do so
The guidebook provides information which explains why it is

beneficial for an outdoor apparel company to implement a basic CSR
strategy, and gives advice on the ways in which the company can
implement such a strategy.
It comprises a main
document and an appendix
The guidebook comprises a main document and an appendix of tools

and resources.
The main document

contains information
covering several topics
The main document contains information covering several topics,

including:
The appendix provides extra

information relating to each
of the topics covered by the
main document
The appendix of tools and resources provides companies with

additional information relating to each of the topics covered by the
main document. It includes links to helpful websites and research
papers, as well as examples of successful CSR strategies.
In the future, the OIA

SRWG plans to release
two more versions of
the guidebook
In the future, the OIA SRWG plans to release two more versions of
the guidebook. One version will advise outdoor apparel companies on
how they can improve upon the basic CSR strategy set out in the first
guidebook, while the other version will advise companies on how they
can implement an advanced CSR strategy.
Companies can download

the guidebook online
Companies can download the guidebook online by visiting:

www.outdoorindustry.org/responsibility/social/toolkit.html.
obtaining approval from company executives to implement a CSR

strategy;
creating a code of conduct;
informing suppliers and customers of the expectations of the
strategy;
identifying high risk areas in the supply chain;
monitoring compliance with the strategy; and
training staff in the ways in which they must comply with the
strategy.
FINANCIAL RESULTS
ADIDAS
Adidas has reported results Germany-based Adidasone of the worlds largest sportswear
for the second quarter and companieshas reported results for the second quarter and the first
the first half of 2013
half of its 2013 financial year. Both periods ended on June 30, 2013.
In the second quarter of
2013, total revenues were
down by 4%, but on a
currency adjusted basis
they remained unchanged
Second quarter 2013

In the second quarter of 2013, total revenues were down by 4% to
Euro3,383 mn (US$4,456 mn) compared with Euro3,517 mn in the
corresponding period of the previous year. On a currency adjusted
basis4, total revenues remained more or less unchanged.
Calculations made on a currency adjusted basis have been corrected to remove the effects of variations in
currency exchange rates.
79
Business update
Retail revenues were up,

but wholesales revenues
and revenues from other
businesses were down
Within the Euro3,383 mn total, retail revenues were up by 2% to

Euro867 mn. However, wholesale revenues were down by 5% to
Euro2,014 mn and revenues generated under the companys other
businesses category were down by 9% to Euro502 mn.
Reebok, Rockport and

Reebok-CCM Hockey
revenues rose
A breakdown by brand shows that Reebok revenues were up by 6%

and Rockport revenues by 3%, while Reebok-CCM Hockey revenues
were up marginally.
but TaylorMade-Adidas
Golf and Adidas revenues
were down
By contrast, TaylorMade-Adidas Golf revenues were down by 13%

and Adidas revenues by 4% (Table 1).
Table 1: Adidas: breakdown of revenues by brand, 2 qtr 2012 and 2 qtr 2013
Value
2 qtr 2012
2 qtr 2013
(Euro mn)
(Euro mn)
Adidas
2,649
2,546
Reebok
336
355
TaylorMade-adidas Golf
401
348
Rockport
67
69
Reebok-CCM Hockey
64
65
Total
3,517
3,383
NB: numbers may not sum precisely due to rounding.
Source: Adidas.
In
euro terms
(%)
-4
6
-13
3
0
-4
Change
Currency
adjusted
(%)
0
11
-8
7
2
0
Revenues in Latin America

were up by 13% and in
Greater China by 7%
A breakdown by geographical region shows that revenues in

Latin America were up by 13% and those in Greater Chinawhich
comprises China, Hong Kong and Taiwanwere up by 7% (Table 2).
By contrast, revenues in
Western Europe fell by
12% and those in other
Asian markets by 7%
By contrast, revenues in Western Europe were down by 12% and

those in other Asian marketswhich comprise Australia, India,
Indonesia, Japan, Malaysia, New Zealand, the Philippines, Singapore,
South Korea, Thailand and Vietnamwere down by 7%.
Revenues in European
emerging markets fell by
4% and those in North
America also fell by 4%
Revenues in European emerging marketsconsisting of Armenia,

Belarus, Bulgaria, Egypt, Israel, Kazakhstan, Romania, Russia,
Saudi Arabia, South Africa, Tunisia, Turkey, Ukraine and the
United Arab Emirates (UAE)were down by 4% and those in North
America were also down by 4%.
Table 2: Adidas: breakdown of revenues by region, 2 qtr 2012 and 2 qtr 2013
Value
2 qtr 2012
2 qtr 2013
(Euro mn)
(Euro mn)
Western Europe
924
812
North America
859
826
European emerging markets
487
467
Latin America
332
376
Greater China
347
371
Other Asian markets
568
531
Total
3,517
3,383
Source: Adidas.
80
In
euro terms
(%)
-12
-4
-4
13
7
-7
-4
Change
Currency
adjusted
(%)
-11
-2
0
21
6
7
0
Business update
The companys net income, The companys net income, meanwhile, was up by 5% to Euro171 mn
meanwhile, was up by 5% compared with Euro164 mn in the second quarter of 2012.
In the first half of 2013,

total revenues were down
by 3%, but revenues
remained unchanged on a
currency adjusted basis
First half 2013

In the first half of 2013, total revenues were down by 3% to
Euro7,134 mn compared with Euro7,341 mn in the corresponding
period one year earlier.
On a currency adjusted basis, however, total revenues remained
unchanged.
Retail revenues were up,

but wholesale revenues
and revenues from other
businesses were down
Within the Euro7,134 mn total, retail revenues were up by 3% to

Euro1,589 mn. However, wholesale revenues were down by 5% to
Euro4,495 mn and revenues generated under the companys other
businesses category were down by 2% to Euro1,050 mn.
Rockport revenues were up,

but Reebok, Reebok-CCM
Hockey, TaylorMadeAdidas Golf and Adidas
revenues were down
A breakdown by brand shows that Rockport revenues were up by 2%.

By contrast, Reebok revenues were down by 7%, Reebok-CCM
Hockey revenues by 6%, TaylorMade-Adidas Golf revenues by 2%
and Adidas revenues also by 2% (Table 3).
Table 3: Adidas: breakdown of revenues by brand, Jan-Jun 2012 and
Jan-Jun 2013
Value
Jan-Jun 2012 Jan-Jun 2013
(Euro mn)
(Euro mn)
Adidas
5,537
5,404
TaylorMade-adidas Golf
788
771
Reebok
787
733
Rockport
127
130
Reebok-CCM Hockey
102
96
Total
7,341
7,134
Source: Adidas.
Revenues in Latin America

and in Greater China rose
In
euro terms
(%)
-2
-2
-7
2
-6
-3
Change
Currency
adjusted
(%)
0
2
-4
4
-6
0
A breakdown by geographical region shows that revenues in

Latin America were up by 9% and in Greater China by 7% (Table 4).
Table 4: Adidas: breakdown of revenues by region, Jan-Jun 2012 and
Jan-Jun 2013
Value
Jan-Jun 2012 Jan-Jun 2013
(Euro mn)
(Euro mn)
Western Europe
2,098
1,907
North America
1,728
1,716
European emerging markets
917
901
Latin America
704
765
Greater China
732
781
Other Asian markets
1,162
1,064
Total
7,341
7,134
Source: Adidas.
In
euro terms
(%)
-9
-1
-2
9
7
-8
-3
Change
Currency
adjusted
(%)
-9
1
1
16
6
1
0
81
But revenues elsewhere

were down
Business update
By contrast, revenues in Western Europe were down by 9%, in other

Asian markets by 8%, in European emerging markets by 2% and in
North America by 1%.
The companys net income, The companys net income, meanwhile, was up by 6% to Euro481 mn
meanwhile, was up by 6% compared with Euro454 mn in the first half of 2012.
Columbia Sportswear has

reported results for the
second quarter and the
first half of 2013
COLUMBIA SPORTSWEAR
Columbia Sportswear, a USA-based manufacturer of sportswear and
outdoor clothing, has reported results for the second quarter and the
first half of its 2013 financial year. Both periods ended on June 30,
2013.
In the second quarter of

2013, net sales were down
by 3% to US$280.5 mn
Second quarter 2013

In the second quarter of 2013, net sales were down by 3% to
US$280.5 mn compared with US$290.4 mn in the corresponding
period of the previous year.
Sales in EMEA were down

by 24% and those in
LAAP by 3%, but sales in
Canada were up by 52%
and those in the USA by
6%
A breakdown by region shows that sales in Europe, the Middle East

and Africa (EMEA) were down by 24% to US$53.1 mn and those in
Latin America and Asia Pacific (LAAP) by 3% to US$81.2 mn.
By contrast, sales in Canada were up by 52% to US$6.4 mn and those
in the USA by 6% to US$139.8 mn.
Sales of apparel, accessories A breakdown by product category shows that sales of apparel,
and equipment fell by 2%
accessories and equipment were down by 2% to US$235.7 mn and
and footwear sales by 9%
sales of footwear by 9% to US$44.8 mn.
Sales of brands under the
companys other
category were down by
16%, Mountain Hardwear
brand sales by 5% and
Columbia brand sales by
3%, while Sorel brand
sales remained unchanged
A breakdown by brand shows that sales of the companys Montrail

and Pacific Trail brandswhich come under the companys other
categorywere down by 16% to US$2.6 mn, sales of its Mountain
Hardwear brand by 5% to US$22.5 mn and sales of its Columbia
brand by 3% to US$252.5 mn.
Meanwhile, Columbia
incurred a net loss
of US$7.3 mn
Meanwhile, Columbia incurred a net loss of US$7.3 mn compared

with a net loss of US$7.9 mn in the corresponding period of the
previous year.

net sales were up by 1%
to US$628.8 mn
First half 2013

In the first half of 2013, net sales were up by 1% to US$628.8 mn
compared with US$623.5 mn in the corresponding period of the
previous year.
Sales in the USA were up

by 5%, in Canada by 3%
and in LAAP by 2%
A breakdown by region shows that sales in the USA increased by 5%

to US$340.3 mn, sales in Canada by 3% to US$30.2 mn and sales in
Latin America and Asia Pacific (LAAP) by 2% to US$164.3 mn.
82
However, sales of its Sorel brand remained unchanged at

US$2.9 mn.
By contrast, sales in
EMEA were down by 13%
Business update
By contrast, sales in Europe, the Middle East and Africa (EMEA)

were down by 13% to US$94.0 mn.
Sales of apparel, accessories A breakdown by product category shows that sales of apparel,
and equipment and sales of accessories and equipment were up by 1%, to US$530.0 mn, and sales
footwear were up by 1%
of footwear were also up by 1%, to US$98.8 mn.
Sales of the companys
A breakdown by brand shows that sales of the companys Sorel brand
Sorel brand soared by 65% soared by 65% to US$15.3 mn.
Columbia brand sales and
Mountain Hardwear brand
sales remained unchanged
Sales of its Columbia brand remained unchanged at US$553.6 mn and

sales of its Mountain Hardwear brand also remained unchanged, at
US$54.6 mn.
By contrast, sales under the By contrast, sales of the companys Montrail and Pacific Trail
companys other category brandswhich come under the companys other categorywere
were down by 12%
down by 12% to US$5.3 mn.
Meanwhile, Columbia
achieved a net income of
US$2.8 mn after making a
loss of US$4.0 mn
Nike has reported results
for the first quarter of its
2013/14 financial year
Meanwhile, Columbia achieved a net income of US$2.8 mn compared

with a net loss of US$4.0 mn in the corresponding period of the
previous year.
NIKE
The USA-based sportswear giant Nike has reported results for the
first quarter of its 2013/14 financial year. The quarter ended on
August 31, 2013.
Revenues in the quarter

were up by 8%
Revenues in the quarter were up by 8% to US$6,971 mn compared

with US$6,474 mn in the corresponding period of the previous
year.
Revenues in Central and

Eastern Europe were up
by 12%
A geographical breakdown shows that the fastest increase was in

Central and Eastern Europe where revenues were up by 12%, from
US$327 mn to US$366 mn.
Revenues in Western Europe Revenues in Western Europe were up by 11%, from US$1,176 mn to
were up by 11% and in
US$1,301 mn, and revenues in North America were up by 9%, from
US$2,866 mn to US$3,135 mn.
North America by 9%
Revenues in Emerging
Markets were up by 1%
Revenues in Emerging Marketswhich the company defines as South

and Central America, the Pacific region and Asia, excluding Greater
China and Japanwere up by only 1%, from US$897 mn to
US$902 mn.
By contrast, revenues
in Japan were down
by 20% and in
Greater China by 1%
By contrast, revenues in Japan were down by 20%, from US$197 mn

to US$158 mn, and revenues in Greater Chinawhich the company
defines as mainland China, Hong Kong and Taiwanwere down by
1%, from US$577 mn to US$574 mn.
83
Revenues generated by
Converse were up by 18%
Business update
Revenues generated by the Converse brand5 were up by 18%, from

US$418 mn to US$494 mn.
The companys net income The companys net income from continuing operations, meanwhile,
from continuing operations, was up by 33% to US$780 mn compared with US$585 mn in the
meanwhile, was up by 33% corresponding period of 2012/13.
EBIT in Central and
Eastern Europe was up
by 50%, in North
America by 26%, in
Western Europe by 25%,
in Japan by 4% and in
Greater China by 3%
On a geographical basis, earnings before interest and tax (EBIT) in

Central and Eastern Europe were up by 50% to US$81 mn, in
North America by 26% to US$813 mn and in Western Europe by
25% to US$265 mn.
But EBIT in Emerging

Markets was down by 5%
However, EBIT in Emerging Markets was down by 5% to

US$210 mn.
Meanwhile, EBIT
generated by Converse
was up by 36%
Meanwhile, EBIT generated by Converse was up by 36% to

US$169 mn.
EBIT in Japan was up by 4% to US$24 mn and in Greater China by

3% to US$170 mn.
PERRY ELLIS INTERNATIONAL

Perry Ellis International
Perry Ellis International, a USA-based apparel manufacturer with a
has reported results for the large family of brands, has reported results for the second quarter of
second quarter of 2013/14
its 2013/14 financial year. The quarter ended on August 3, 2013.
Total revenues in the
quarter were up by 1.1%
to US$211.7 mn
Total revenues in the quarter were up by 1.1% to US$211.7 mn

previous year.
However, the companys

net loss increased from
US$2.4 mn to US$2.8 mn
However, the company posted a net loss of US$2.8 mn which was

higher than the net loss of US$2.4 mn posted for the corresponding
period one year earlier.
In the whole of 2013/14,

revenues are expected to
be 2-3% higher than
those in 2012/13
Puma has released results
for the second quarter and
the first half of 2013
Outlook
In the light of these results, Perry Ellis International is expecting its
revenues for the whole of its 2013/14 financial year to be 2-3% higher
than those generated in the whole of its 2012/13 financial year.
PUMA
The Germany-based sportswear company Puma has released results for
the second quarter and the first half of its 2013 financial year. Both
periods ended on June 30, 2013.
Starting in the first quarter of 2013/14, Nike has changed the reporting structure for what was historically
identified as Other Businesses, which included the Converse, Hurley and Nike Golf brands. The Hurley
and Nike Golf brands are now included in the overall financial results for the Nike brand and for individual
countries and geographical regions, reflecting the operational integration of these businesses into the Nike
Brand category. Converse will be reported as a separate segment, reflecting the ongoing operation of this
brand as a stand-alone business.
84
Business update
In the second quarter

of 2013, sales were
down by 8.0%
Second quarter 2013

In the second quarter of 2013, Pumas worldwide consolidated sales
were down by 8.0% to Euro692.3 mn (US$903.9 mn) compared with
Euro752.9 mn in the corresponding period of the previous year.
The decrease has been

attributed to a number
of factors
The decrease has been attributed to sluggish sales in southern Europe

and Asia, as well as the impact of currency conversions in the
countries in which Puma does business.
Sales of apparel were down

by 11.5% and sales of footwear by 11.1%, but sales of
accessories were up by 7.9%
A breakdown of sales shows that sales of apparel were down by

11.5% to Euro227.0 mn and sales of footwear by 11.1% to
Euro329.8 mnalthough sales of accessories were up by 7.9% to
Euro135.6 mn.
Sales in Asia Pacific were

down by 16.5%, sales in
EMEA by 6.1% and sales
in the Americas by 4.2%
On a geographical basis, sales in all three reporting regions declined.

In Asia Pacific sales were down by 16.5% to Euro159.1 mn. In
Europe, the Middle East and Africa (EMEA) sales were down by
6.1% to Euro266.2 mn, and in the Americas they were down by 4.2%
to Euro267.0 mn.
Net earnings, meanwhile,

were down by 34.2%
Net earnings, meanwhile, were down by 34.2% to Euro17.5 mn

compared with Euro26.7 mn in the corresponding period one year
earlier.

sales were down by 6.3%
First half 2013

In the first half of 2013, the companys worldwide consolidated
sales were down by 6.3% to Euro1,473.9 mn compared with
Euro1,573.8 mn in the corresponding period of 2012.
Sales of footwear were down

by 10.5% and sales of
apparel by 7.8%, but sales of
accessories were up by 9.0%
A breakdown by product category shows that sales of footwear were

down by 10.5% to Euro702.8 mn and sales of apparel by 7.8% to
Euro483.1 mn, although sales of accessories were up by 9.0% to
Euro288.0 mn.
Sales in Asia Pacific were

down by 13.1%, sales in
EMEA by 5.7% and sales
in the Americas by 2.3%
On a geographical basis, sales in Asia Pacific were down by 13.1%

to Euro332.5 mn, sales in the EMEA region were down by 5.7% to
Euro614.1 mn and sales in the Americas were down by 2.3% to
Euro527.2 mn.
Net earnings were down

by 32.6%
Net earnings, meanwhile, were down by 32.6% to Euro67.8 mn

compared with Euro100.6 mn in the first half of 2012.
Quiksilver has released

results for the third
quarter of 2012/13
QUIKSILVER
Quiksilver, a USA-based manufacturer of surf apparel, has released
results for the third quarter of its 2012/13 financial year. The quarter
ended on July 31, 2013.
Consolidated net
revenues in the quarter
were down by 3%
Consolidated net revenues from continuing operations in the quarter

were down by 3% to US$495.8 mn compared with US$512.4 mn in
the corresponding period one year earlier.
85
Business update
Net revenues in the AsiaPacific region were down

by 12% and those in the
Americas were down by 6%
A breakdown by geographical region shows that net revenues in the

Asia-Pacific region were down by 12%, from US$71.6 mn to
US$63.4 mn, and those in the Americas were down by 6%, from
US$286.1 mn to US$268.0 mn.
By contrast, net revenues

in EMEA were up by 6%
By contrast, net revenues in Europe, the Middle East and Africa

(EMEA) were up by 6% to US$163.8 mn compared with
US$154.1 mn in the corresponding period of the previous year.
Corporate operations
accounted for US$0.6 mn
The remaining US$0.6 mn was accounted for under the companys

corporate operations category.
The companys net income

plummeted by 85%
The companys net income, meanwhile, plummeted by 85%, from

US$12.5 mn to US$1.8 mn.
Under Armour has

reported results for the
second quarter of its
2013 financial year
UNDER ARMOUR
Under Armour, a USA-based company which specialises in
performance apparel with moisture wicking capabilities, has reported
results for the second quarter of its 2013 financial year. The quarter
ended on June 30, 2013.
Total net revenues in

the quarter were up
by 23.0%
Total net revenues in the quarter were up by 23.0% to US$454.5 mn

previous year.
Apparel revenues were up

by 22.7% due to strong
sales of new base layer
products
A breakdown by product category shows that apparel revenues were

up by 22.7% from US$252.8 mn to US$310.2 mn. The increase was
attributed to strong sales of new base layer products and the expansion
of the Storm and Charged Cotton brands.
Sales of accessories were

up by 30.1% and sales of
footwear by 21.1%
Sales of accessories were up by 30.1% to US$51.0 mn compared with

US$39.2 mn in the corresponding period of the previous year,
and sales of footwear were up by 21.1%, from US$67.4 mn to
US$81.7 mn.
Meanwhile, the
companys net income
soared by 163.4%
Meanwhile, the companys net income in the quarter soared by

163.4% to US$17.6 mn compared with US$6.7 mn in the
corresponding period of 2012.
Unifi has reported results

for the fourth quarter and
the whole of 2012/13
UNIFI
USA-based Unifi, one of the worlds largest producers of textured
yarns, has reported results for the fourth quarter and the whole of its
2012/13 financial year. Both periods ended on June 30, 20136.
Results for Unifis 2012/13 financial year relate to a 53-week period whereas results for its 2011/12
financial period relate to a 52-week period. Results for the fourth quarter of its 2012/13 financial year relate
to a 14-week period whereas results for the fourth quarter of its 2011/12 financial year relate to a 13-week
period.
86
Business update
In the fourth quarter of

2012/13, net sales were
up by 6.8%
Fourth quarter 2012/13

In the fourth quarter of 2012/13, net sales were up by 6.8% to
US$200.7 mn compared with US$187.9 mn in the corresponding
period of the previous year.
However, the companys

net income was down by
6.8%
However, the companys net income (excluding minority interests)

was down by 6.8% to US$10.5 mn compared with US$11.3 mn in the
corresponding period a year earlier.
In the whole of 2012/13,

net sales were up by 1.3%
2012/13
In the whole of 2012/13, net sales were up by 1.3% to US$714.0 mn
from US$705.1 mn in the previous year.
The companys net

income, meanwhile,
soared by 44.8%
The companys net income (excluding minority interests), meanwhile,

soared by 44.8% to US$16.6 mn compared with US$11.5 mn in
2011/12.
VF Corporation has
announced results for the
second quarter of 2013
VF CORPORATION
The USA-based clothing company VF Corporation has announced
results for the second quarter of its 2013 financial year. The quarter
ended on June 29, 2013.
Revenues in the quarter

were up by 4%
Revenues in the quarter were up by 4% to US$2,220.4 mn compared

with US$2,141.8 mn in the corresponding period one year earlier.
The increase reflected

The increase in revenues reflected growth in three of the companys
growth in three of the com- five business unitsnamely Sportswear, Outdoor & Action Sports and
panys five business units
Jeanswear. VF refers to these business units as coalitions.
The fastest increase
was a 14% rise in the
Sportswear unit
The fastest increase was a 14% rise, to US$133.5 mn, in the

Sportswear unitwhich includes the Nautica brand, as well as the
Kipling brand in North America.
Revenues in the Outdoor

& Action Sports unit
were up by 6%
Revenues in the Outdoor & Action Sports unitwhich includes the

brands Eagle Creek, Eastpak, JanSport, Kipling, Lucy, Napapijri,
Smartwool, The North Face, Timberland and Vanswere up by 6%
to US$1,103.6 mn.
and in the Jeanswear

unit by 3%
Meanwhile, revenues in the Jeanswear unitwhich includes the Lee,

Riders and Wranglers brandswere up by 3% to US$611.7 mn.
By contrast, revenues in
the Contemporary Brands
unit were down by 9%
By contrast, revenues in the Contemporary Brands unitwhich

consists of the brands 7 For All Mankind, Ella Moss and
Splendidwere down by 9% to US$98.6 mn.
and in the Imagewear

unit by 4%
Revenues in the Imagewear unit were down by 4% to

US$241.8 mn.
Revenues in the other

category were US$31.1 mn
Revenues which come under the companys other category were

valued at US$31.1 mn.
87
VFs net income was

down by 11%
Business update
Meanwhile, VFs net income (excluding minority interests) in the

quarter was down by 11% to US$138.2 mn compared with
US$155.3 mn in the corresponding period of 2012.
INVESTMENTS
Teijin Aramid will invest

4.5 bn (US$45.0 mn) in
developing a new
meta-aramid fibre and
building a new
manufacturing facility at
its existing site in
Ayutthaya Province,
Thailand
TEIJIN ARAMID WILL INVEST 4.5 BN IN DEVELOPING

A NEW META-ARAMID FIBRE AND BUILDING A NEW
MANUFACTURING FACILITY IN THAILAND
Teijin Aramida Netherlands-based specialist in aramid fibres and a
subsidiary of Japan-based Teijin Groupwill invest 4.5 bn
(US$45.0 mn) in developing a new meta-aramid fibre and building a
new manufacturing facility at its existing site in Ayutthaya Province,
Thailand.
Teijin Aramid claims that the new meta-aramid fibre will have a
higher level of heat resistance than any existing meta-aramid fibre, as
well as excellent dyeability. The new meta-aramid fibre will be
suitable for use in the manufacture of protective apparel.
The facility will develop

the new meta-aramid
fibre, and will start
producing it in July 2015
The facility will be dedicated to the development and manufacture of

the new meta-aramid fibre.
The development of the

new meta-aramid fibre
will strengthen Teijins
competitiveness in Asia
as demand for such fibres
in the region is growing as
safety regulations become
more stringent
When news of the investment was announced, the group executive

officer and general manager of Teijin Aramids high performance
fibres unit, Masaya Endo, commented that the development of the new
meta-aramid fibre would strengthen Teijins competitiveness in the
emerging economies of Asia.
Construction of the facility will start in December 2013, and the fibre
will go into production in July 2015.
He added that demand for heat resistant and flame resistant fibre
in the region is growing as safety regulations become more stringent.
JOINT VENTURES, COOPERATION, LICENSING AND

DISTRIBUTION
BURLINGTON INDUSTRIES HAS WON A CONTRACT
FROM THE US AIR FORCE RELATING TO THE SUPPLY
OF MICRODENIER POLYESTER FABRIC
Burlington Industries has
Burlington Industriesa USA-based textile manufacturer and a
won a contract from the
division of International Textile Group (ITG)has won a contract
US Air Force to supply
from the US Air Force relating to the supply of microdenier polyester
microdenier polyester fabric fabric. The contract is valued at US$5.3 mn.
88
Business update
The company will

manufacture the fabric at its
facility and supply it to the
US Air Force, which will use
it in the production of shorts
for use by its members
Under the terms of the contract, Burlington Industries will

manufacture the fabric at its facility in North Carolina, USA, and
supply it to the US Air Force.
The fabric is 35% lighter

than the fabric currently
used to make the shorts
The fabric is 35% lighter than the fabric which is currently

used to manufacture the shorts worn by members of the
US Air Force.
Also, it is highly
breathable, has moisture
wicking properties
Also, the fabric is highly breathable and has moisture wicking

properties. As a result, it helps to keep the wearer cool, dry and
comfortable during physical activity.
and is stain resistant
In addition, the fabric is stain resistant. Therefore shorts made from

the fabric are particularly suitable for use during outdoor physical
training exercises when they may come into contact with grass or
mud.
The US Air Force is improving its training programme

and felt that its training
uniform should include
more technical functions
The US Air Force decided to update the fabric which it uses to

manufacture its physical training shorts because it is in the process of
improving its physical training programme, and felt that its physical
training uniform should be updated to include a greater number of
technical functions.
Since the start of 2013,

Burlington Industries has
won seven contracts from
the US military
Since the start of 2013, Burlington Industries has won seven contracts
from the US military which, in total, are worth approximately
US$236.0 mn.
Columbia Sportswear has

entered into an agreement
with Chogori India Retail
The US Air Force will use the fabric in the production of shorts for
use by its members during physical training exercises.
COLUMBIA SPORTSWEAR HAS ENTERED INTO A

DISTRIBUTION AGREEMENT WITH CHOGORI INDIA
RETAIL
Columbia Sportsweara USA-based retailer of outdoor apparelhas
entered into a distribution agreement with Chogori India Retail, a
distribution and retail company based in India.
The latter will be the

Under the terms of the agreement, Chogori India Retail will act
distributor of Columbia
as the exclusive distributor of Columbia Sportswear products in
Sportswear products in India India.
Chogori India Retail was
chosen as it has over ten
years experience in
building consumer brands,
and it also works with ten
other outdoor apparel
brands in India
Columbia Sportswear selected Chogori India Retail as its distribution

partner in India as the company has over ten years experience in
building consumer brands in the country.
Chogori India Retail acts as a retailer or distributor for ten other
outdoor apparel brands in India.
89
Business update
ICONIX INDIA HAS ENTERED INTO A LICENSING

AGREEMENT WITH FUTURE LIFESTYLE FASHIONS
RELATING TO THE DISTRIBUTION OF THE UMBRO
BRAND IN INDIA
Iconix India has entered into Iconix India has entered into a licensing agreement with Future
a licensing agreement with
Lifestyle Fashions relating to the distribution of the Umbro brand in
Future Lifestyle Fashions
India.
Iconix India is a division of
Iconix Brand Group, and
responsible for licensing the
groups brands in India
Iconix India is the Indian division of Iconix Brand Groupa

USA-based brand licensing company which owns the Umbro brand.
It is responsible for the licensing of Iconix Brand Groups apparel and
home brands in India.

Future Lifestyle Fashions is the retail division of Future Group, an
operates a chain of discount India-based company which operates a chain of discount department
department stores
stores.
will sell Umbro branded
sportswear in its own retail
stores in India and in other
company brand outlets
Under the terms of the agreement, Future Lifestyle Fashions will sell
Umbro branded sportswear in its own retail stores in India.
There is increasing
demand for branded
sportswear in India and a
growing trend for wearing
branded sportswear as
casual wear, as well as a
growing interest in sports
Iconix Brand Group decided to launch the Umbro brand in India in

response to an increase in demand for branded sportswear in the
country, and a growing trend among Indian consumers for wearing
branded sportswear as casual wear.
There is said to be a gap

in demand and supply
of branded sportswear in
India and so Umbro will
help to fill this gap
When news of the agreement was announced, the chief executive

officer (CEO) of Future Group, Rakesh Biyani, said: The Indian
fashion market has seen a surge in demand for sportswear in the last
couple of years, but there is still a gap in demand and supply of
branded sportswear in the country. Umbro will help us to fill in this
gap and provide our customers with choices in sportswear.
It will also sell Umbro branded sportswear in brand outlet stores

owned by other companies.
Also, there is growing interest in the country in sports such as

football, hockey and tennis.
MACYS HAS ENTERED INTO A LICENSING

AGREEMENT WITH LIDS SPORTS GROUP RELATING TO
THE OPENING OF NEW SPORTSWEAR CONCESSIONS
INSIDE MACYS STORES
Macys7 has entered into a licensing agreement with Lids Sports
Macys and Lids have
entered into an agreement Group relating to the opening of new sportswear concessions8 inside
relating to the opening of
Macys stores. Macys is a USA-based department store retailer while
new sportswear concessions Lids Sports Group is a USA-based company which operates stores that
inside Macys stores
sell licensed sportswear.
7
See also Macys will expand its offering of sportswear and activewear in a bid to attract a greater
number of millennial consumers on page 77 of this issue.
A concession is a small retail outlet which is located in an allocated area of another store, usually a
department store.
90
Business update
The concessions sell licensed

sportswear branded with
the logos of American
professional and collegiate
sports teams, allowing
customers to buy sportswear
branded with the logos of
the sports teams associated
with the local area
The concessions are called Locker Room by Lids and sell licensed
sportswear which is branded with the logos of American professional
and collegiate sports teams.
The concessions are being

piloted in 25 Macys
stores, beginning in
November 2013
The concessions are being piloted in 25 Macys stores, beginning in

November 2013, but will be launched officially in another 175 Macys
stores in spring 2014.
Unifi has entered into a

manufacturing and
distribution agreement
with Palmetto Synthetics
relating to Unifis Repreve
polyester staple fibre
Repreve is made from

polyester derived from
post-consumer PET bottles
When the agreement was announced, the chief merchandising officer

at Macys, Jeff Genette, explained that the concessions will provide
customers who live close to each Macys store with the opportunity
to purchase sportswear branded with the logos of the sports teams
associated with the local area.
UNIFI HAS ENTERED INTO A MANUFACTURING AND

DISTRIBUTION AGREEMENT WITH PALMETTO
SYNTHETICS
Unifi has entered into a manufacturing and distribution agreement
with Palmetto Synthetics relating to Unifis Repreve polyester staple
fibre.
Unifi, based in the USA, is one of the worlds largest producers of
textured yarns while Palmetto Synthetics is a USA-based manufacturer
of synthetic fibres.
Repreve polyester staple fibre is made entirely from polyester obtained
by recycling polymer from post-consumer polyethylene terephthalate
(PET) bottles.
Under the terms of the agreement, Palmetto Synthetics will purchase

Palmetto will buy Repreve
chips from Unifi and process Repreve polyester chips from Unifi and process them into Repreve
polyester staple fibre.
them into Repreve fibre
The fibre has been
awarded Certified
Responsible Source status
by SCS Global Services
The fibre has been awarded Certified Responsible Source status by

SCS Global Servicesan independent certification organisation based
in the USA.
Certified Responsible Source is awarded to polyester products which
have been produced using environmentally friendly and socially
responsible manufacturing techniques.
There is increasing
demand from US
manufacturers for yarns
made using recycled
materials and which have
been produced in the USA
According to the vice-president of Palmetto Synthetics, David Poston,

there is increasing demand from US manufacturers for yarns which are
made using recycled materials and which have been produced in the
USA.
Palmetto Synthetics agreement with Unifi enables it to provide US
manufacturers with such yarns in staple fibre form.
91
Business update
NEW BRANDS
A new brand of
performance apparel called
Toren, founded by Ethan
Wishnick, will be launched
in spring 2014
A NEW BRAND OF PERFORMANCE APPAREL CALLED

TOREN WILL BE LAUNCHED IN SPRING 2014
A new brand of performance apparel, called Toren, will be launched
in spring 2014.
Toren was founded and developed by an entrepreneur and outdoor
enthusiast, Ethan Wishnick, who is based in New York City, USA.
Mr Wishnick developed
the brand after he found
that most items of
performance apparel on
the market had an
unflattering fit and were
expensive
Mr Wishnick decided to develop the brand after he found that most

items of performance apparel available on the market had an
unflattering fit and were expensive.
The company will sell

apparel at competitive
prices, and will make it
available for purchase
solely via an online store
to minimise overhead costs
The company will sell the apparel at competitive prices and will make
it available for purchase solely via an online store in order to
minimise its overhead costs.
It will encourage consumers

to share their opinions
about performance apparel
via the Toren website
In the months leading up to the launch of Toren, the company will

actively encourage consumers to share their opinions and preferences
regarding performance apparel via its website, and via Torens blog
and social media accounts.
Toren wants to know

which technical features
are most important to
consumers and the colours
and styles they prefer
In particular, Toren is interested in gathering information as to the

technical features which are most important to consumers and the
colours and styles they prefer. The company believes that it will be
able to cater to the needs of consumers more fully by gathering this
information directly from them.
The first product to be

launched by Toren will be a
waterproof jacket for use in
extreme weather conditions
The first product to be launched by Toren will be a waterproof jacket

for use in extreme weather conditions. The jacket will be made using
a waterproof and breathable fabric produced by Toray, a Japan-based
manufacturer of high performance textiles and synthetic fibres.
Following the launch,

Toren will release other
products
Following the launch of this jacket, Toren plans to release a number

of other productsincluding an insulated hard shell jacket and a
wetsuit.
92
Items of Toren branded performance apparel, by contrast, will have a

tailored fit and the most expensive items will retail at no more than
US$300.
In addition, having an online presence will enable the company to

interact with consumers and engage with them in real time.
Business update
NEW STORES
JACK WOLFSKIN HAS OPENED ITS FIRST STORE IN
SOUTH AMERICA
Jack Wolfskin has opened its Jack Wolfskin9, a Germany-based retailer of outdoor apparel, has
first store in South America opened its first store in South America.
The store is located in
Chile and was opened in
partnership with Heightsport, a sportswear and
outdoor apparel retailer
The store is located in Lake Villarrica, Pucn, Chile, and was opened
on July 13, 2013.
Latin America is popular

with outdoor enthusiasts,
and the growing tourism
industry in Chile provides
an ideal starting point for
Jack Wolfskin to bring its
products to the market
When the opening of the new store was announced, the chief
executive officer (CEO) of Jack Wolfskin, Michael Rupp, said: Latin
America attracts countless outdoor enthusiasts from all over the world
every year with its breathtaking and varied scenery, providing us with
the perfect opportunity to tap into an international audience. In
particular, the growing tourism industry in Chile provides the ideal
starting point to bring our innovative products to the South American
market.
Jack Wolfskin will open

a second store in Chile
in 2014
Meanwhile, Jack Wolfskin plans to open a second store in

South America in October 2014. The store will be located in Santiago,
Chile.
In the future, Heightsport

plans to sell Jack Wolfskin
products in its own stores
and to open concessions in
department stores
In the future, Heightsport plans to sell Jack Wolfskin products in

its own Heightsport branded stores across South America and to
open Jack Wolfskin concessions inside department stores in the
region.
It was opened in partnership with Heightsport, a South American

retailer of sportswear and outdoor apparel.
MATALAN HAS OPENED A NEW CHAIN OF

SPORTSWEAR AND SPORTS EQUIPMENT STORES IN
THE UK CALLED SPORTING PRO
Matalan has opened a new Matalana UK-based retailer of value fashion apparelhas opened
chain of sports stores called a new chain of sportswear and sports equipment stores, called
Sporting Pro, in the UK.
Sporting Pro in the UK
The company has opened
an online store and opened
its first five physical stores
The company opened an online Sporting Pro store at the end of

September 2013, and opened its first five physical stores during
October 2013, in Colchester, Coleraine, Harlow, Stockton and Walsall.
A further five stores will be A further five stores will be opened by the end of 2013, in
opened by the end of 2013 Knaresborough, Leeds, Sheffield, Stockport and Wakefield.
9
A profile of Jack Wolfskin starts on page 61 of this issue.
93
Business update
Matalan hopes to open 100

stores by the end of 2018
In the future, Matalan hopes to increase the number of Sporting Pro

stores to at least 100 by the end of 2018.
Sporting Pro stores sell

sportswear, footwear and
sports equipment from
several leading sports
brands
Sporting Pro stores sell an extensive range of sportswear, footwear

and sports equipment from a number of leading sports
brandsincluding Adidas, Asics, Babolat, Canterbury, Head, Kappa,
New Balance, Nike, Raleigh, Reebok, Speedo, Under Armour and
Wilson.
In the physical stores,

similar products are
grouped into sections
In the physical stores, products which are similar are grouped

into sections in order to make the stores easy for consumers to
navigate.
Also, the stores have a

facility which can make
custom insoles for
consumers, and consumers
can have their running
techniques assessed by
fitness specialists
Also, the stores include a facility which produces custom insoles for
consumers by moulding the insoles to the shape of their feet.
Matalan saw a gap in the

UK retail market for such
a sports store, and it aims
to fill a gap left by the
closure of JJB Sports
stores in 2012
Matalan decided to launch the new chain of Sporting Pro stores as it

recognised that there was a gap in the UK retail market for a sports
store which was imaginative and offered consumers something
different.
Sports Direct is in
discussions with Tesco
relating to the opening
of Sports Direct stores
inside three of Tescos
largest hypermarkets
As the two retailers are
non-competing companies,
they are both set to benefit
from the arrangement
In addition, the stores provide consumers with the opportunity to have

their running techniques assessed. A fitness specialist watches the
consumer run on a treadmill, and then offers the consumer advice on
how to improve the way in which he or she moves.
Also, it aims to fill a gap left in the market following the closure of
JJB Sports10 stores in 2012.
SPORTS DIRECT IS IN DISCUSSIONS WITH TESCO
RELATING TO THE OPENING OF SPORTS DIRECT
STORES INSIDE TESCO HYPERMARKETS
Sports Direct is in discussions with Tesco relating to the opening of
Sports Direct stores inside three of Tescos largest hypermarkets11 in
the UK.
Sports Direct is a UK-based sporting goods retailer while Tesco is a
UK-based supermarket retailer.
Sports Direct and Tesco would benefit mutually from such an
arrangement as they are non-competing companies. In particular,
Sports Direct would benefit by gaining access to a new group of
consumers who would be exposed to Sports Direct products while
shopping at Tesco.
10
See also JJB Sports has entered into administration, Business update, Performance Apparel Markets,
No 42, 3rd quarter 2012, page 65.
11
A hypermarket is a very large retail store which sells a wide variety of products, including clothing,
electrical appliances and groceries.
94
Business update
In particular, the
arrangement would help
to maximise the efficiency
of Tescos hypermarkets
which have excess space
Tesco would benefit because the arrangement would help to maximise

the efficiency of its hypermarkets. The company has excess space in
its hypermarketssome of which cover an area of up to 120,000 ft2
(11,148 m2)and has struggled to make use of it. Also, the popularity
of online retailing has reduced the need for retailers to operate very
large physical stores.
Recently, Tesco allocated

an area in one of its
hypermarkets in the Czech
Republic to Sports Direct
Recently, Tesco allocated an area of approximately 30,000 ft2 in one

of its hypermarkets in the Czech Republic to Sports Direct. However,
the two companies have declined to comment on the success of this
venture.
The two companies are

continuing to discuss the
new strategy
Sports Direct and Tesco are continuing to discuss the new

strategy.
95

Absorbency under load: the weight of fluid in grams which can be absorbed by 1 gram of fibre, yarn or fabric
which has been subject to a pressure of 0.25 lb/inch2 before wetting.
Acetate: a type of fibre chemically derived from cellulose.
Acquisition layer: an absorbent layer close to the coverstock in a nonwoven hygiene product (such as a diaper)
through which fluid enters. Typically, the fluid is then transmitted to a distribution layer.
Antibacterial: resistance against bacteria.
Aramid: the generic name for a special group of synthetic fibres (aromatic polyamide) having high strength;
examples are Kevlar from DuPont and Twaron from Teijin Twaron.
Artificial fibres: see cellulosic fibres.
Ballotini: small glass beads which are normally used in reflective paints but which can also be incorporated into
fabrics.
Bicomponent fabric: a fabric with two layers.
Bicomponent fibre, bicomponent yarn: a fibre or yarn which has two different types of continuous filament
components. The two components may, for example, be different polymers which shrink differently. (See also
multicompartment fibres and yarns and multicomponent fibres and yarns.)
Bio-feedback: the measurement of a subjects quantifiable bodily functions such as blood pressure, heart rate,
skin temperature, sweat gland activity and muscle tension and the conveyance of those measurements to the
subject in real time to raise his awareness.
Bi-shrinkage yarn: a yarn containing two different types of filament, which have different shrinkages.
Bullet resistant material: a material which resists penetration from certain high velocity projectiles such as
bullets from firearms. (See also bullet proof material.)
Bullet proof material: a material which provides complete protection against all types of high velocity
projectiles or against multiple hits in the same location from such projectiles.
Carbon nanotube: A nanotube made entirely of carbon. Carbon nanotubes are typically up to 100 times as
strong as steel.
Cellulosic fibres: fibres made or chemically derived from a naturally occurring cellulose raw material.
Charmeuse: a lightweight fabric woven with a satin weave constructed so that the warp threads cross over three
or more of the backing (weft) threads. The front side of the fabric has a satin finishwhich is lustrous and
reflectivewhereas the back has a dull finish. The fabric can be made of silk, or a synthetic substitute such as
polyester.
Chemiluminescence products: products which glow when one liquid chemical containing special fluorescers
interacts with another (an activator).
Circular jersey: fabric produced on circular knitting machines. (See also circular knitting, weft knitting.)
96
Circular knitting: a fabric production technique in which fabric is knitted in the form of a tube. Usually, this
is subsequently slit and finished as open width fabric. However, in the case of smaller width machines, the
circular knitting process is used to make body width tubes which need not be slit, thus avoiding the need for a
seam and thereby increasing wearer comfort. These machines can be further modified to knit body blanks which
incorporate some shaping and are separated by a draw-thread.
Clo value: the amount of insulation required to keep a resting subject with a metabolism of 50 kcal/metre2/hour
comfortable for an indefinite period of time at a temperature of 21C (70F).
CM: cut and make. (See also CMT.)
CMT: cut, make and trim. A system whereby a manufacturer produces garments for a customer by cutting fabric
provided by the customer and sewing the cut fabric into garments in accordance with the customers
specification. In general, companies operating on a CMT basis do not become involved in the design of the
garment but are merely concerned with its manufacture.
Colourway: one of several different combinations of colours in which a given pattern is printed on items such
as fabrics and wallpapers.
Composite (fabric): a fabric structure, usually nonwoven, comprising several layers.
Composite (fibre reinforced): see fibre reinforced composite.
Comonomer: one of the compounds which constitute a copolymer.
Conjugate fibres and yarns: see bicomponent fibres and yarns.
Continuous filament: see filament.
Copolymer: a polymer in which there are two or more repeat units.
Core-spun yarn: a yarn consisting of an inner core yarn surrounded by staple fibres. A core-spun yarn
combines the strength and/or elongation of the core thread and the characteristics of the staple fibres which form
the surface.
Core-twisted yarn: a yarn produced by combining one fibre or filament with another during a twisting
process.
Count: a measure of linear density. (See also decitex, denier, tex.)
Covered yarn: a yarn made by feeding one yarn through one or more revolving spindles carrying the other
(wrapping) yarn. Covered yarn may also be produced using air-jet technology.
Cover factor (knitted fabrics): a number which indicates the extent to which the area of a knitted fabric is
covered by yarn. It is also an indication of the relative looseness or tightness of the knitting.
Cover factor (woven fabrics): a number which indicates the extent to which the area of a fabric is covered by
one set of threads. For any woven fabric, there are two cover factors: a warp cover factor and a weft cover
factor. Under the cotton system, the cover factor is the ratio of the number of threads per inch to the square root
of the cotton yarn count.
97
Cradle to cradle: a term, adapted from the expression cradle to grave, which is used to describe a model in
which processes are sustainable and considerate of life in general. In one cradle to cradle model, all materials
used in industrial or commercial processessuch as metals, fibres and dyesare seen to fall into one of two
categories, namely technical nutrients and biological nutrients. Technical nutrients are non-toxic, non-harmful
synthetic materials which have no negative effects on the natural environment, and can be used over and over
again without losing their integrity or quality rather than being downcycled into lesser products that ultimately
become waste. Biological nutrients are organic materials which, once used, can be disposed of in any natural
environment and decompose into the soil, thereby providing food for small life forms without affecting the
natural environment.
Decitex: a unit of the tex system. A measure of linear density; the weight in grams of 10,000 metres of yarn.
Decitex per filament (dpf): the average decitex of each filament in a multifilament yarn.
Dendrimer: a synthetic polymer with a tree-like branching structure.
Denier: a measure of linear density; the weight in grams of 9,000 metres of yarn.
Disperse dye: a substantially water-insoluble dye which has substantivity for one or more hydrophobic fibres
and is usually applied from a fine aqueous dispersion. Disperse dyes are used mainly to dye polyester but they
can also be used to dye nylon, cellulose triacetate, and acrylic fibres.
Distribution layer: a layer in a nonwoven hygiene product (such as a diaper) which distributes fluid to a
superabsorbent and/or fluff pulp material, where it is absorbed.
Dobby: a mechanism for controlling the vertical position of heald shafts on a loom, so as to selectively raise
some warp threads while leaving others depressed. The use of a dobby facilitates the weaving of a fabric which
has a more complex structure than that achievable by using cams and tappets to raise and lower heald shafts.
However, it can not offer weaves as complex as those obtained by using a jacquard mechanism.
Dobby weave: a type of weave produced on a loom equipped with a dobby.
Dope: see spinning solution.
Dope dyeing: a method of dyeing in which a dye is mixed with a polymer before the polymer is extruded
through fine holes in a spinneret to form fibres and yarns. (See also mass coloration.)
Dpf: see decitex per filament.
Drape: a cover sheet.
Dry spinning: in the dry spinning process, polymer is dissolved in a solvent before being spun into warm air
where the solvent evaporates. This leaves the fibrous polymer ready for drawing.
Dry spun: a fibre or filament produced by the dry spinning process.
Dtex: see decitex.
Durable water repellent finish: a finish which bonds to the fibres of a textile without filling the spaces between
those fibres. The finish does not coat the surface of the textile and therefore does not impair breathability.
DWR: see durable water repellent finish.
98
Elastane, elastomeric: a fibre, often made of polyurethane, possessing inherent stretch properties (also known
as spandex, especially in the USA).
Elastolefin: a fibre composed of at least 95% (by mass) of macromoleculespartially cross-linkedmade up
of ethylene and at least one other olefin. When it is stretched to one and a half times its original length and
released, the fibre recovers rapidly and substantially to its initial length.
Elastomer: a polymer which has a high extensibility, together with rapid and substantially complete elastic
recovery (most fibres formed from elastomers have breaking elongations in excess of 100%).
End (in weaving): an individual warp yarn.
Fabric: a manufactured assembly of fibres and/or yarns which has substantial surface area in relation to its
thickness and sufficient cohesion to give the assembly useful mechanical strength.
False-twist texturing: a process in which a single filament yarn is twisted, set and untwisted. When yarns made
from thermoplastic materials are heat-set in a twisted condition, the deformation of the filaments is memorised
and the yarn is given greater bulk.
FDY: fully drawn yarn.
Ferrofluid: a fluid which becomes highly polarised in the presence of a magnetic field.
Fibre: a material used to make textiles which is flexible, fine, and has a high ratio of length to thickness.
Fibre reinforced composite (FRC): a product formed by intimately combining two or more discrete physical
phasesusually a solid matrix, such as a resin, and a fibrous reinforcing component.
Filament: a fibre of indefinite length.
Filamentation: breakage of filaments, resulting in the creation of a fibrous or hairy appearance on the surface
of a yarn package or fabric.
Fill: see weft.
Flame resistant: a term used to describe fibres, yarns or fabrics which resist burning.
Flame retardant: a substance added or a treatment applied to a material in order to suppress, significantly
reduce or delay the propagation of flame.
Fleece (fabric): pile or napped fabric with a deep, soft, woolly-style surface.
Fleece (garment): outerwear jacket made from fleece fabric.
Fluorescent material: a material which absorbs certain wavelengths of light and emits or reflects wavelengths
that are longer than those which are absorbed.
Four-way stretch: the ability to stretch and recover vertically, horizontally, and from any angle (see also
two-way stretch).
FOY: fully oriented yarn.
FR: see flame retardant.
99
Free swell absorbency: the weight of fluid in grams which can be absorbed by 1 gram of fibre, yarn or fabric.
Gpd (g/denier): a unit of force divided by the weight per unit length of a fibre, yarn or rope.
Granulation: the process of forming new tissues.
Hard shell: a hard shell is an outerwear garment which protects the wearer from the elements. It is typically
made from a tough, abrasion-resistant material such as nylon. (See also soft shell.)
High loft: textiles which are three dimensional, being thick but very light. The term is also applied to the fillings
used in outdoor clothing to denote those which retain a large volume of still air.
Hydroentanglement: see spunlacing.
Hydrophilic: a term used to describe a substance which tends to mix with or to be wetted by water.
Hydrophobic: a term used to describe a substance which tends to repel or not to be wetted by water.
Hydrostatic head: hydrostatic head is a way of describing the pressure applied to a material in terms of the
height of an equivalent column of water. Because the pressure exerted is determined solely by the height of the
column, it is possible to use this figure to quantify how waterproof a fabric is. For example, a fabric which can
withstand a hydrostatic head of one metre will resist the passage of water until the pressure of the water exceeds
this value.
Hygroscopic: a term used to describe a substance which attracts moisture from the atmosphere.
Imagewear: a term used to describe apparel which is used to project a corporate identity. Examples include
workwear, career wear and uniforms.
Industrial textiles: a category of technical textiles used as part of an industrial process, or incorporated into
final products.
Islands-in-the-sea: a type of bicomponent yarn in which one component polymer is formed, during extrusion,
as longitudinal strands within the matrix of a second polymer.
ISPO: International Trade Fair for Sports Equipment & Fashion, held in Munich, Germany.
KPa (kiloPascal): the pressure produced by a force of 1,000 Newtons applied, uniformly distributed, over an
area of 1 m2. Used in textile testing as a measure of bursting pressure; 1 kPa = 6.89 lbf/inch2.
Laminate: a fabric which comprises two or more layers bonded together. Many waterproof breathable fabrics
are made by laminating a textile to a film or a membrane.
Layering: layering involves the use of: a comfort or base layer; an insulation layer; and a protection layer. The
base layer comprises clothing worn next to the skin. Perspiration drying on the skin can cause chilling. However,
this effect can be minimised by wearing a base layer which wicks moisture away from the skin. The insulation
layer is the middle layer in the system and enables the wearer to regulate his or her body temperature by putting
on or taking off garments as necessary. Insulation layer garments should be lightweight and warm, and should
dry quickly in order to retain body heat. They should also let perspiration vapour escape from the comfort layer
underneath, and retain their insulating properties even when wet. The protection layer is an outer layer of
waterproof and windproof fabric. It should be highly breathable, so as to allow perspiration vapour to escape
easily from the comfort layer and the insulation layer.
100
Linear density: the weight per unit length of a yarn or fibre. Units of linear density include decitex, denier
and tex.
LOY: low orientation yarn.
Lycra: brand name used by DuPont for its spandex or elastane fibre.
Lyocell: the generic name given to a new family of cellulosic fibres and yarns that have been produced by
solvent spinning. The process is widely regarded as being environmentally friendly, and the product offers a
number of advantages over traditional cellulosic fibres.
Man-in-Simulant Test (MIST): a test which determines whether materials that are breathable can be used to
reduce heat stress to emergency responderssuch as law enforcement personnelwho might use these
ensembles over a longer duration in low challenge exposures and non-IDLH (immediately dangerous to life and
health) atmospheres.
Man-made fibres: fibres which are manufactured and which do not occur in nature. The term man-made fibres
is also used to refer to man-made filament yarns.
Man-made filaments: filaments which are manufactured and which do not occur in nature.
Mass coloration: a method of colouring man-made fibres by incorporating a dye or colorant in the spinning
solution or melt before extrusion into filaments. Also known as dope dyeing.
Mercerisation: a treatment of yarns or fabrics with caustic alkali, in which fibres are swollen and stretched to
increase lustre in the finished product.
Microfibre: a fibre or filament with a linear density approximately below 1 decitex. Some commercial fibres
or filaments as coarse as 1.3 decitex are classified as microfibres by their producers. (See also microfilament.)
Microfilament: a continuous filament with a linear density approximately below 1 decitex. Some commercial
filaments as coarse as 1.3 decitex are classified as microfilaments by their producers. (See also microfibre.)
Micron (micrometre): one millionth of a metre (10-6 metres).
Micro-organisms: living organisms of microscopic size such as bacteria or fungi which produce infection and
disease.
Microyarn: a yarn consisting of several microfilaments.
Modal: a type of cellulosic fibre having improved strength and modulus when wet.
Modulus: a measure of the ability of a fibre to resist extension. It is the ratio between the stress (or load)
applied on the fibre to the elongation (strain) resulting from the application of that stress.
Moisture management (in textiles and garments): the process by which moisture is moved away from the skin
and dispersed through a fabric to its outer surface, from where moisture can evaporate, leaving both the skin and
garment dry.
Moisture regain: the percentage of moisture in a textile material brought into equilibrium with a standard
atmosphere after partial drying, calculated as a percentage of the moisture-free weight.
Monofilament yarn: a yarn consisting of a single filament.
101
Monolithic (membrane): continuous polymer layer.

mPa (megapascal): the pressure exerted by a force of 1 Newton applied over an area of 1 mm2.
Multicompartment fibre, multicompartment yarn: fibre or yarn formed from multicomponent (or
conjugate) fibres by separately extruding fibres of different polymers. While still in the molten state, the fibres
are combined and blown with fluid jets. This produces vortices within the fibre. As the fibre is drawn, the
vortices can, under the right conditions, be converted to hollow structures running along the length of the fibre.
The compartments so formed may lie side by side within the fibre or contained within it in an annular structure.
Multicomponent fibre, multicomponent yarn: a yarn which has two or more different continuous filament
components. (See also multicompartment fibre, multicompartment yarn and bicomponent fibre,
bicomponent yarn.)
Multifilament yarn: a yarn made up of more than one filament.
Nanometre: one billionth of a metre (10-9 metres).
Nanotechnology: research and technology development at the atomic, molecular or macromolecular levels (in
the 1-100 nanometre range) aimed at creating and using materials which have novel properties and functions.
Nanotube: a tube-like structure of sub-microscopic size.
Nanowire: a wire measuring one nanometre (10-9 metres or one billionth of a metre) in diameter.
Nip: a line or area of contact or proximity between two contiguous surfaces which move so as to compress
and/or control the velocity of textile material passed between them.
Nonwoven: (according to ISO 9092:1988) a manufactured sheet, web or batt of directionally or randomly
orientated fibres, bonded by friction and/or cohesion and/or adhesion, excluding paper and products which are
woven, knitted, tufted, stitchbonded incorporating binding yarns or filaments, or felted by wet-milling, whether
or not additionally needled.
Novoloid: a manufactured fibre which contains at least 85% by weight of a cross-linked novolac (phenolic
resin).
Nylon: another word for polyamide.
Oleophilic: a propensity to absorb oil.
Pa (Pascal): the pressure produced by a force of 1 Newton applied, uniformly distributed, over an area of 1 m2.
Used in textile testing as a measure of bursting pressure.
Padding (finishing): the impregnation of a substrate with a liquor or paste followed by squeezingusually by
passing the substrate through a nipto leave a specific quantity of liquor or paste on the substrate.
Partially oriented yarn: a continuous synthetic filament made by extruding a polymer so that a substantial
degree of molecular orientation is present in the resulting filaments, but so that further substantial molecular
orientation is still possible. The resulting yarn will usually have to be drawn in a subsequent process in order
to orient the molecular structure fully and optimise the yarns tensile properties.
PBI: polybenzimidazole, a highly flame resistant fibre with low shrinkage properties when exposed to flame.
PBT: polybutylterephthalate, a type of polyester fibre used to provide fabrics with durable stretch properties.
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PET: polyethylene terephthalate, the most common form of polyester.

Photovoltaic technology: a technology used to convert sunlight directly into electricity.
Pick: a single weft thread in a woven fabric.
Pill, pilling: the entangling of fibres during washing, dry cleaning, testing or in wear to form balls or pills which
stand proud of the surface of a fabric and which are of such density that light will not pass through them (so
that they cast a shadow).
PLA: polylactic acid, a synthetic polymer formed from plant-based material and used as the starting material
for a new range of melt spun synthetic fibres, including Ingeo from Cargill Dow.
Polyamide: another word for nylon.
Polylactic acid: see PLA.
Polymer: a long molecule made up from many smaller repeat molecules; the following polymers are the main
ones used to make synthetic fibres: polyacrylic; polyamide (nylon); polyester; polypropylene; and polyurethane.
Polymerisation: the process of linking small chemical units together to form larger molecules.
Powered exoskeleton: a powered mobile machine which consists primarily of a skeleton-like framework worn
by a person together with a power supply which supplies at least part of the activation energy required for limb
movement.
POY: see partially oriented yarn.
Prepolymer: a polymer of relatively low molecular weightusually intermediate between that of the monomer
and the final polymer or resinwhich may be mixed with compounding additives and which is capable of being
hardened by further polymerisation during or after a forming process.
Push-pull fabrics: bicomponent fabrics composed of a non-absorbent hydrophobic material, usually polyester,
on the inside (worn next to the skin) and an absorbent hydrophilic material, usually nylon, on the outside.
Raschel: a two-needle warp knitting system.
Rayon: a term used to describe fibres made from regenerated cellulose. (See also viscose, modal and acetate.)
Reaction spinning: one of three types of production process used to make elastane (the other two being dry
spinning and wet spinning) in which fibres are formed through a chemical reaction, and polymerisation and
formation of filaments occur simultaneously as the prepolymer is extruded in a reagent bath.
Retention: the weight of fluid remaining after a freely swollen fibre, yarn or fabric is subjected to a pressure
of 0.5 lb/inch2.
Rip stop: a lightweight woven fabric containing corded yarns spaced at regular intervalsin both the warp and
the weftwhich form squares on the surface of the fabric in order to prevent a tear in the fabric from spreading.
Common applications include parachutes, outerwear and activewear.
Sanforizing: a controlled compressive shrinkage process. The word Sanforized is a registered trade mark and
can be used to describe fabrics which meet defined and approved standards of washing shrinkage.
103
Scouring: the treatment of textiles in aqueous or other solutions in order to remove natural fats, waxes, proteins
and other constituents, as well as dirt, oil and other impurities.
Shape memory polymers (SMPs): chemical compounds which have one form at a certain temperature, which
can be given a different shape when subjected to a stimulus such as heat, and which, under certain conditions,
can return to their original memorised form. Current textile research is focused on using shape memory
polymers to create smart fabrics with protective and moisture management capabilities.
Shed (weaving): an opening formed during weaving by raising some warp threads and lowering others to
facilitate the passage of a weft yarn or a weft carrying device across the weaving machine.
Shedding: a motion in weaving whereby a shed is created to facilitate the passage of a weft yarn or a weft
carrying device across the weaving machine.
Soft shell: a soft shell is an outerwear garment which performs the functions of two or more garments in
traditional layering systems. It is soft to the touch, resistant to wind and water, and highly breathable. (See also
hard shell.)
Spandex: the generic name used in the USA to denote elastane fibre.
Spinneret: a nozzle or plate provided with fine holes or slits through which a fibre-forming solution or melt
is extruded during fibre manufacture.
Spinning solution: a solution of fibre-forming polymer ready for extrusion through a spinneret.
Sputtered: a material which has been subjected to sputtering.
Sputtering: a process in which atoms, ions and molecules are ejected from the surface of a target material when
it is irradiated by an ion beam. One application of sputtering is to exploit the conditions in which the ejected
particles re-form on another substrate as a thin film or coating. For instance, thin metallic films are often applied
in this way to electrically non-conductive substrates to give them conductive properties.
Staple fibres (man-made): man-made fibres of predetermined short lengths, usually prepared by cutting or
breaking filaments of the material into lengths suitable for their intended processing route.
Sublimation: a process in which a substance changes directly from a solid to a gas when it is heated, without
passing through the liquid state.
Synthetic fibres: man-made fibres made from a polymer which has been produced artificially, in contrast to
fibres made from naturally occurring polymers such as cellulose. The term synthetic fibres is also used to refer
to synthetic filaments.
Synthetic filaments: man-made filaments made from a polymer which has been produced artificially, in
contrast to filaments made from naturally occurring polymers such as cellulose.
Tactical vest: a bullet resistant vest worn by military personnel in combat environments. Its ability to resist the
impact of bullets lies in the presence of hard plates which are strategically placed in the vest to prevent the
wearer from injury.
Technical textiles: textile materials and products manufactured primarily for their technical performance and
functional properties rather than their aesthetic or decorative characteristics. End uses include aerospace,
industrial, marine, medical, military, safety and transport textiles, and geotextiles.
104
Tenacity: a unit used to measure the strength of a fibre or yarn, usually calculated by dividing the breaking
force by the linear density.
Tencel: a brand name used by Lenzing for a cellulosic fibre first commercialised in the late 1990s by Courtaulds
and generically known as lyocell. Tencel is stronger than viscose cellulosic fibre and is characterised by its
softness and drape.
Tensile strength (fibre): the longitudinal stress which can be applied to a fibre before it breaks.
Tex: a measure of linear density; the weight in grams of 1,000 metres of yarn.
Textured yarn: a continuous filament yarn which has been processed to introduce durable crimps, coils, loops
or other fine distortions along the lengths of the filaments.
Texturing: a process during which a textured yarn is produced.
Thermoplastic yarns: yarns which are deformable by applying heat and pressure without any accompanying
change, and in which the deformation is reversible.
Thermoregulation: regulation of body temperature.
Ton: (in this publication) 1,000 kilograms.
Tow: the name given to an untwisted assembly of a large number of filaments; tows are cut up to produce
staple fibres.
Tricot, warp knitted: a warp knitted fabric knitted with two full sets of warp threads, each set making a
1 and 1 lapping movement but in opposite directions. Additionally the term is now used generically to cover all
types of warp knitted fabric made on tricot warp knitting machines.
Two-way stretch: the ability to stretch and recover both vertically and horizontally. (See also four-way stretch.)
Ultraviolet: see UV.
UPF: ultraviolet protection factor.
UV: ultraviolet.
UVA: UVA (alpha) is long-wave UV (ultraviolet) radiation which penetrates deep into the skin. UVA radiation
ranges from 315 to 400 nanometres (nm) in wavelength, and is known to cause skin cancer, skin blotching,
wrinkles and premature ageing of the skin.
UVB: UVB (beta) is short-wave UV (ultraviolet) radiation which ranges from 280 nm to 315 nm in wavelength.
UVB radiation is much stronger than UVA radiation, and affects mainly outer skin layers. It is the most common
cause of sunburn, but it also contributes to premature ageing of the skin, wrinkles and skin cancer.
Viscose: the generic name for a type of cellulosic fibre obtained from wood cellulose.
Warp: yarns which are incorporated along the length of a fabric.
Warp knitting: a method of making a knitted fabric from a warp in which loops made from each warp thread
are formed substantially along the length of the fabric. Warp knitting is characterised by the fact that each warp
thread is fed more or less in line with the direction in which the fabric is produced. (See also weft knitting.)
105
Weaving: the process of producing fabric by interlacing warp and weft yarns.
Web: a sheet of fibres produced by a carding machine (carded web) or combing machine (combed web).
Weft: yarns which are incorporated across the width of a fabric.
Weft knitting: a method of making a knitted fabric in which the loops made by each weft thread are formed
substantially across the width of the fabric. Weft knitting is characterised by the fact that each weft thread is fed
more or less at right angles to the direction in which the fabric is produced.
Wet spinning: in the wet spinning process, the polymer solution (also known as dope) is spun into a spin bath
containing a liquid chosen for its ability to extract the solvent from the dope.
Wet spun: a fibre or filament produced by the wet spinning process.
Wicking: a process whereby a textile material transports moisture away from a surface such as the skin.
Wrapped yarn: see wrap-spun yarn.
Wrap-spun yarn: a yarn consisting of a core wrapped with a binder.
Yarn: a product of substantial length and relatively small cross-section consisting of fibres and/or filaments with
or without twist.
106
Index to Performance Apparel

Markets
No 1, 2nd quarter 2002
Fast track: a new publication for a rapidly expanding
industry
Moisture management fabrics
Profile of Wellman: fibres for moisture management
Business update
No 2, 3rd quarter 2002
Fast track: sportswear provides inspiration for a wide
range of apparelfrom uniforms and workwear to high
fashion
Stretch fibres and fabrics
Profile of RadiciSpandex: a specialist in elastane fibres
Business update
No 3, 4th quarter 2002
Fast track: performance apparel for winter 2002/03
High strength fibres and fabrics
Profile of Teijin Twaron: a global leader in aramid fibre
Business update
No 4, 1st quarter 2003
Fast track: brand awareness
Temperature control fabrics
Profile of The North Face: a leader in outdoor performance
apparel
Business update
Fast track: ISPO
Profile of Marmot: a leader in performance outerwear
Business update
Fast track: Biomimicry
Flame resistant fibres and fabrics
Profile of Sparco: a leader in professional motor
racing apparel
Business update
Fast track: tracking the US sports apparel industry
Antimicrobial fibres and fabrics
Profile of Columbia Sportswear: a leader in outdoor apparel
Business update
Fast track: the games of the XXVIII Olympiad
High visibility apparel: technology for safety, comfort and
style
Profile of Alexandra: a leader in the supply of workwear
Business update

Fast track: ISPO Summer 2004
UV protective fibres and fabrics: function and fashion for
a health-conscious age
Profile of L-Fashion Group: a sportswear and outdoor
clothing specialist
Business update
Fast track: tracking the sporting goods industry in China
Performance swimwear: high-tech swimsuits create waves
Profile of Stretchtex International Fabrics: a leader in
swimwear fabrics
Business update
Fast track: Adidas-Salomon cashes in on growing popularity
of soccer
Stain protective apparel: consumers splash out on easy-care
clothing
Profile of Ashworth: a supplier of golf-inspired apparel
Business update
Fast track: runaway success
Microencapsulation: for enhanced textile performance
Profile of Cognis: a leader in speciality textile
treatments
Business update
Fast track: Innovations at Avantex and Techtextil 2005
Smart and interactive textiles
Profile of Nano-tex: a leader in nanotechnology-based
textile treatments
Business update
Fast track: tracking the leading players in sporting goods
Anti-static technology in performance apparel
Profile of W L Gore: a leader in performance outerwear
fabrics
Business update
Fast track: tracking the counterfeit industry
Performance apparel for skiing and snowboarding:
making a more comfortable and safer experience
Profile of Spyder Active Sports: a leader in performance
ski wear
Business update
107

Fast track: environmental issues for performance apparel:
earth first, profits second
Seamless knitting and stitch-free seaming technologies in
performance apparel
Profile of Bemis: a leader in bonded seam technology for
stitch-free apparel
Business update
Fast track: tracking the market for personal protective
equipment
Clothing at work: providing a better image
Profile of Kwintet: a leading supplier of workwear
Business update
Fast track: targeting women
Surfwear and surf-inspired clothing
Billabong International: a leading supplier of surfwear
Business update
Fast track: tracking the sportswear industry in the UK
Lion Apparel: a leading supplier of protective apparel for
firefighters
Business update
Fast track: ISPO Winter 2007a platform for innovation
Moisture management fabrics
Profile of Ronhill Sports: a leading UK supplier of running
apparel
Business update
Fast track: International Active Textiles Symposium
2007a new event for a competitive market
Temperature control fabrics
Profile of Burton Snowboards: the global market leader in
snowboarding equipment
Business update
Fast track: Avantexan international forum for innovative
textiles for apparel
Fibres and fabrics for performance footwear
Profile of Asics Corporation: a leading producer of high
performance footwear
Business update
Fast track: sports wear or fashion wear? A blurring of the
boundaries
Compression garments for enhanced performance
Profile of Under Armour: a leader in compression
performance apparel
Business update
108

Fast track: the Ordnance Survey Outdoors Show 2008
Waterproof breathable fabrics: new technologies for greater
comfort
Profile of Berghaus: a performance apparel producer
expanding into fashionable conventional clothing
Business update
Fast track: new uses for wearable health monitoring
technology
Fleece fabrics and garments: lightweight warmth for better
performance
Profile of Lowe Alpine: a pioneer in the outdoor leisure
market
Business update
Fast track: OutDoor 2008
Developments in military clothing
Profile of TenCate: a supplier of high-tech fabrics for
military wear
Business update
Fast track: gas plasma treatments for water repellent
technology
Anti-odour clothing: bringing fresh appeal to the
performance apparel market
Profile of Delta Galil: a global innovator in underwear,
socks and seamless apparel
Business update
Fast track: sports brands strive for greener supply chains
Medical clothing: safeguarding health and well-being
Profile of Medelita: an innovator in medical uniforms
Business update
Fast track: innovations at Techtextil 2009
UV protective clothing: key to reducing skin damage
Profile of Coolibar: a leader in UV protective clothing
Business update
Fast track: what China can learn from the Lycra story
New developments in performance swimwear
Profile of Carvico: a global leader in warp knitted stretch
fabrics
Business update
Fast track: message from ISPO 2010sports brands
should pursue the older generation
Sustainability in performance apparel: meeting the demands
of an eco-conscious marketplace
Profile of Anvil Knitwear: an environmentally responsible
supplier
Business update

Fast track: muscle powerthe benefits of compression
apparel
Personal protective clothing: ensuring worker safety
Profile of Cosalt: a European provider of protective apparel
with global ambitions
Business update
Fast track: US retail sales in six performance apparel sectors
Snow sports apparel: reaching new heights of comfort and
protection
Profile of Helly Hansen: a pioneer in performance
outerwear
Business update
Fast track: Taiwan leads Asia in sustainable high
performance fibres and fabrics for performance apparel
Stain protection in performance apparel: providing clean
solutions
Profile of Eddie Bauer: a long-established outdoor
outfitter
Business update
Fast track: should questions about the safety of PTFE worry
the performance apparel industry?
Nanotechnology in performance apparel: using small-scale
materials to create big opportunities
Profile of Schoeller Group: a creative producer of smart and
sustainable functional fabrics
Business update
Fast track: how apparel is recording track times, distances,
calories, location and pictures
Profile of Globe Manufacturing Company: inventor of the
firefighter suit
Business update
Fast track: should apparel brands be held responsible for
pollution caused by their suppliers?
Cosmetotextiles: wearable body care
Profile of Laboratoire SkinUp: a pioneer in
cosmetotextiles
Business update
Fast track: innovations at ITMA
Stretch fibres and fabrics: reaching new levels of comfort
Profile of Jersey Lomellina: a global leader in circular
knitted stretch fabrics
Business update

Fast track: performance apparel for the active older
generation
Smart textiles and wearable technology: opportunities for
life enhancement and health management
Profile of WarmX: an innovative supplier of wearable
technology
Business update
Fast track: advances in insulation materials for performance
apparel
High visibility apparel: providing protection, comfort and
style
Profile of UniFirst: a leader in the uniform and textile
services industry
Business update
Fast track: Adidas and Nike battle for supremacy in football
and the Olympic Games
Summer sportswear: providing cool comfort
Profile of Mizuno: a world-renowned sports brand
Business update
Fast track: focus on insect repellent and heated garments
at OutDoor 2012
Chemical protective clothing: providing a life-critical
barrier
Profile of Lakeland Industries: an innovator in chemical
protective clothing
Business update
Fast track: how environmentally sustainable is the outdoor
apparel industry?
Water sports apparel: innovation keeps brands afloat
Profile of Musto: a premium nautical apparel brand
Business update
Fast track: is there a future for smart fabrics in sports
monitoring?
Temperature control fabrics: optimising wearer comfort
Profile of Patagonia: a pioneer in corporate social
responsibility (CSR)
Business update
Fast track: Chinas leading sportswear companies face
challenges after the heady days of the Beijing 2008
Olympic Games
Indoor sportswear and fitness apparel
Profile of Lululemon Athletica: a specialist in stylish
fitness apparel
Business update
109

Fast track: protecting sports participants from head
injuries
Waterproof breathable fabrics: demand for comfort is
driving innovation
Profile of Jack Wolfskin: a premium outdoor apparel
brand
Business update
110
Technical Textile Markets

Business and market analysis of worldwide trends in fibres, nonwovens, technical textiles and functional apparel
High performance fibres and technical textiles represent two of the faster
growing sectors of the global textile industry. Attracted by strong growth
rates, many producers of apparel textiles are moving over to technical
textiles as competition from low cost imports increases.
Technical textiles, based on high technology, are more "import-proof" than
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However, as the markets for fashion and sports clothing have
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Global Apparel Markets

Four times a year, Global Apparel Markets provides essential and up-to-date analysis and insight into the global apparel industry. Reports
contain updates on retail trends, product developments, trade policy, company and country profiles, and business news to keep retailers,
manufacturers and investors informed of the facts and figures which affect their business.
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Discount clothing retailing;

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Mass customisation and fit;
Radio frequency identification;
Sourcing apparel from South and South-East Asia;
Strategies of clothing manufacturers in the post-quota era;
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The effect of online shopping and the Internet on the apparel industry; and
Trends in apparel fabrics: a review of key fabric fairs in Europe and Asia.
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Performance

No 46 3rd quarter 2013

Inside this issue:

Performance Apparel Markets

Fast track: protecting sports participants from head injuries

Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013

Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013

Planned for forthcoming issues...

Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013

Performance Apparel Markets

Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013

Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013

Fast track: protecting sports participants from head injuries

Fast track: protecting sports

MIPS AB: MULTI-DIRECTIONAL IMPACT PROTECTION SYSTEM

Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013

Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013

Fast track: protecting sports participants from head injuries

The technology, developed and marketed by MIPS AB, a company

Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013

Fast track: protecting sports participants from head injuries

MIPS AB first showed prototypes of the technology as long ago as

PHILLIPS HELMETS: PHILLIPS HEAD PROTECTION SYSTEM

Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013

Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013

Fast track: protecting sports participants from head injuries

The system was developed by Dr Ken Phillips, a UK-based inventor.

LAZER: SUPERSKIN, PURE CARBON AND PURE GLASS

Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013

an outer layer of high tensile strength satin carbon;

Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013

Fast track: protecting sports participants from head injuries

Pure Carbon shells are manufactured using proprietary weave patterns,

REEBOK AND MC10: CHECKLIGHT

Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013

Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013

Fast track: protecting sports participants from head injuries

The technology has the ability to capture important data relating to

Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013

Fast track: protecting sports participants from head injuries

The smart catheters will at first be used to monitor electrical activity

ADIDAS AND AYRTEK: ADIPOWER

Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013

Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013

Fast track: protecting sports participants from head injuries

Helmets in the AdiPower range have been specifically designed to

Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013

Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013

Product developments and innovations

Product developments and

FABRICS FOR PROTECTIVE APPAREL

TENCATE PROTECTIVE FABRICS HAS DEVELOPED

Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013

Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013

Product developments and innovations

One of the fabrics, called

One of the fabrics, called TenCate Gemini XTL, is made using

The fabric has high tear

The other fabric, called

The other fabric, called TenCate Millenia, is made using

TenCate Millenia is extremely strong, is highly breathable and has

In addition, the fabric