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by Tool Using Animal (/member/Tool+Using+Animal/)

Download (/id/Red-Oak-Pyramid-Bow/?download=pdf)

(/id/Red-Oak-Pyramid-Bow/)

11 Steps

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About This Instructable

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(http://cdn.instructables.com/FKK/XVUT/G6MPGZ9M/FKKXVUTG6MPGZ9M.LARGE.jpg)

I'd been involved in archery and bowhunting when I was younger, shot an old
PSE wheel bow, chased deer around the woods of New Hampshire. But life
intervened and archery took a backseat. Anyways, some how I got a bug in my
backside to build a bow over spring break. I did a great deal of reading over at
paleoplanet (http://paleoplanet69529.yuku.com/), tradgang
(http://tradgang.com/) and primitive archer (http://www.primitivearcher.com/),
and I'd suggest anyone who chooses to follow this instructable do a fair share of
reading over there before proceeding.

License:

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Tool Using Animal
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(/member/Tool+Using+Animal/)
Bio: Working my dream job in the Telecom
industry, so chances are, i'll never have
time to respond to comments or messages,
nothing personal.
More by Tool Using Animal

So, let's begin, shall we?

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Curly maple lumber

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archery (/tag/type-id/category-workshop/keywordarchery/)
bow (/tag/type-id/category-workshop/keyword-bow/)
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shooting (/tag/type-id/category-workshop/keywordshooting/)
primitive (/tag/type-id/category-workshop/keywordprimitive/)
fletch (/tag/type-id/category-workshop/keywordfletch/)

Step 1: First, a confession

toxophilus (/tag/type-id/category-workshop/keywordtoxophilus/)
deer (/tag/type-id/category-workshop/keyword-deer/)

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(http://cdn.instructables.com/F0Y/08XJ/G6MPCJFH/F0Y08XJG6MPCJFH.LARGE.jpg)

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See More (/tag/type-id/?q=)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F32/08R8/G6MPCJFG/F3208R8G6MPCJFG.LARGE.jpg)

This wasn't the first bow. No the first bow was built using these old Pop Mech
plans (http://www.vintageprojects.com/archery/flat-bow-plans.html). However, it
was powerful weak, only 20lbs at 28"s. So after further research i found the
description of pyramid bows. Not wanting to design another weak bow, I entered
the dimensions of the Pop Mech bow into Solidworks and recorded the

displacement under a 20 lb load. I then designed the the new bow in Solidworks
such that an applied load of 50 Lb resulted in the same displacement as the
other bow.

Step 2: Select your wood

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FT4/O3PB/G6MPCJG3/FT4O3PBG6MPCJG3.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FO7/G5KN/G6MPCJFC/FO7G5KNG6MPCJFC.LARGE.jpg)

The easiest wood to begin with is red oak, as it's available at any
hardware/lumber store. I selected a 1"x3"x8' board with the straightest grain I
could find, as well as the widest growth rings and greatest weight relative to
other boards in the stack. You will have to dig through the pile, you might need
to visit several stores, it's worth it, bad wood, bad bow, bad injuries.

Step 3: Laying out the bow

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F43/B1DA/G6MPCJFF/F43B1DAG6MPCJFF.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FHT/Y2PN/G6MPCJFD/FHTY2PNG6MPCJFD.LARGE.jpg)

Begin by inspecting the wood, check for any splinters, cracks, knots, if you can
work around them great, if not, go get another piece. Slice a inch off one end
and then cut a 70 inch portion off, that will leave a 25 inch section.
Take the 70 inch portion and locate and mark the center of each end, snap a
line, or use a straight edge to make a line down the plank between these points.
Now mark the center of the board. Label the center very clearly. The bow is
symmetrical so layout is easy.
The handle is 4 inches long, one inch wide and centered.
The "wedges" are 2 inches long and 2.5 inches wide.

The limbs are 30 inches long and go from the wedges to a width of 3/8ths
inches.
Got that? Pretty simple.

Step 4: Cut and thin the limbs

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FEL/IVEG/G6MPCJFB/FELIVEGG6MPCJFB.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FXU/20KQ/G6MPCJF9/FXU20KQG6MPCJF9.LARGE.jpg)

Cut out the limbs, i made a simple jig and used my table saw, took two seconds.
Now thin the board down from the stock size to 7/16ths inch. I used a surface
planer, you could use a hand plane (yuck) or a table saw to split the plank to
thickness.

Don't cut out the handle area yet.

Step 5: The handle

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FFA/I4CS/G6MPCJG1/FFAI4CSG6MPCJG1.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F4T/CFCV/G6MPCJG0/F4TCFCVG6MPCJG0.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FPJ/LAB7/G6MPCJFW/FPJLAB7G6MPCJFW.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FUK/GRUK/G6MPCJFZ/FUKGRUKG6MPCJFZ.LARGE.jpg)

as is, is too thin, your bow will break there. So we are going to make it thicker,
but we also need a smooth transition to the limbs.
Start by cutting the saved 25 inch piece to 9 inches. Now using your table saw
carefully feed the piece back an forth across the blade while raising the blade in
small increments. the feather edge should be tangent with the highest point on
the blade. you can make a simple sliding jig to ease the process, I didn't, but
would recommend it. Also I used a 7 inch blade, a 10 inch would have made

nicer fades.
Don't worry about getting a perfect paper thin edge, but get close, now you can
glue the handle piece to the bow and let it dry at least 24 hours, and then cut out
the handle.

Step 6: Now
the scary parts start
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FOZ/IAPA/G6MPGZB3/FOZIAPAG6MPGZB3.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FL6/1QI8/G6MPCJFQ/FL61QI8G6MPCJFQ.LARGE.jpg)

Right now you have a bow shaped object, and you have to start working it into a
bow. Start by easing all the corners, this will help prevent "lifting a splinter" when
you start flexing the bow. After that, cut a couple of thin wedges from scrap and
lash then one inch from either end of the limbs.
Now make a heavy long string from some cord and we can start working the
bow.

Step 7: Tillering

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F5T/R8OC/G6MPCJFO/F5TR8OCG6MPCJFO.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FRS/O4RI/G6MPCJFL/FRSO4RIG6MPCJFL.LARGE.jpg)

Here's where it really get's scary, we are gong to start bending the bow to get a
smooth curve. We need a tillering stick, i just took a 3 foot piece of 2x4 and cut
slots every inch, suboptimal, but workable.
So put the bow on the stick and start pulling it back, you want a smooth even
curve, you can see my outer limbs are too stiff, so I'll scrape the belly (string)
side to thin them. Keep working until you have a tiller you're happy with.
If at ANYTIME you hear cracking, STOP, get a new piece of wood and go back
to step one.
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FEQ/JANS/G6MPCJFK/FEQJANSG6MPCJFK.LARGE.jpg)

Step 8: Attach the nock wedges

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FE5/FKZK/G6MPGZ9N/FE5FKZKG6MPGZ9N.LARGE.jpg)

I liked the nock wedges over cut nocks on narrow limbs like these, so being
chicken, I spot glued the nocks an inch and a quarter from each end, lashed with
hemp twine and soaked with titebond glue. and they still moved when I first
strung the bow!!! Fortunately just a 1/16 and symmetrically so I didn;t have to fix
it, but that gives you an idea of the forces involved here.

Step 9: Finish

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FKK/XVUT/G6MPGZ9M/FKKXVUTG6MPGZ9M.LARGE.jpg)

After finish sanding I coated the whole thing with a wax finish I use on my
firearms called variously "gunny paste" "one third finish" etc. a mix of BLO,
beeswax and turpentine. Finally, you can wrap the handle with hemp twine, but I
like the bare wood..

Very pleased with the result.

Step 10: Addendum

Many people have commented on "backing the bow', this involves gluing a fabric
such as linen, burlap, denim, silk, etc or rawhide or sinew to the back of the bow.
With the exception of sinew, these backing do not improve the performance of
the bow and are more an insurance policy that if the bow fails it will not result in
a catastrophic detonation. So, having said that, if you feel uncomfortable with
the risk attendant to an unbacked bow, by all means apply a coating of titebond,
lay on a layer of fabric and two more coats of titebond wood glue and then trim
when dry.

And now for something completely different, fruit at 8 paces.

Step 11: Just an Update

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F9R/AHAX/GF06ZU3D/F9RAHAXGF06ZU3D.LARGE.jpg)

So, it's six months on. The bow has held up well, I've been hunting with it
several time, unsuccessfully, but that's not the bows fault. After all this time it's

developed about an inch of string follow, nothing to worry about. The weight is
still up there above 50lbs, I measured it before the season just to be sure. I did
have one small problem, the first day of hunting was ninety degrees and one
hundred percent humidity, I sweated so much the grain raised on the handle,
that was a quick fix with a bit of sanding.
I also added a "razzle dazzle" bit of camo by zigzagging painters tape on the
bow, and rubbing in burnt cork, followed with another wax coat.

We have a be nice comment policy.

Please be positive and constructive.

1-40 of
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&sort=ACTIVE&limit=40&offset=40#DISCUSS)

obi wan kaoni (/member/obi+wan+kaoni/)

25 days ago

Reply (CIGJLVBHZV3T8RK)

(/member/obi+wan+kaoni/)

Silent_Shadow (/member/Silent_Shadow/)

1 month ago

Reply (CSJUBL4HYZX3LMS)

How do I tiller it? Please help I'm a newbie...

(/member/Silent_Shadow/)

Andrew LB (/member/Andrew+LB/)

3 months ago

Reply (CRJSNKEHWX48O2V)

If you want a protective finish that will give the look of your wax/turp/blo mixture,
sweat from raising the grain, I'd recommend getting a bottle of
Birchwood Casey's Tru-Oil and hand rubbing it into the wood. (make sure you
wear nitrile gloves). I usually pour a bit into the cap of a used water bottle and dab
a finger in it and get to work rubbing it into the wood (you want to create heat from
the rubbing action) till it's absorbed, working in sections to prevent it from building
up on the surface of the wood. I recently refinished a friends bow for him and it
turned out very nice.

(/member/Andrew+LB/)
while preventing

Oh... and if you want to speed up the process, before each coat of Tru-Oil spray a
tiny bit of Armor-All (yes.. the crap i'd never put on my car) on your gloves so they
get slippery, and rub the wood down, followed by the above Tru-Oil method.
Someone over at RimfileCentral told me about it yet nobody can seem to figure
out the original source. My theory is that some guy with a Tru-Oil finish applied
Armor-All to a shotgun or rifle prior to going out in bad weather with the intent of
protecting the wood. He ended up dinging the finish while out that day and
touched it up with some fresh tru-oil only to find it dried in 5 minutes instead of a
few hours. And no joke, that's seriously how fast it dries. Armor-All works like a
catalyst and some sort of reaction occurs.
Here's a couple examples of how Tru-Oil looks on Walnut. The first is my
Browning Auto-5 16ga (circa 1928) which I refinished and re-checkered after I
gouged the crap out of it climbing a fence while running from a bull (long story).

The other is a pair of custom grips I made from a block of Pao Ferro (Bolivian
Rosewood) and hand checkered. You can build up the finish further but I like the
feel of the wood.

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FDZ/LPA0/HWX48O1S/FDZLPA0HWX48O1S.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FFB/AXUS/HWX48O2E/FFBAXUSHWX48O2E.LARGE.jpg)

seanwhalen (/member/seanwhalen/)

3 months ago

Reply (CHWL52CHWLD28BQ)

Great plans! I made this last summer. It was a fun and easy project that took
of one afternoon. I used a piece of red oak salvaged from a job site.
The photos were taken before I stained it. I used a red oak stain and finished
with polyurethane. The bow has held up exceptionally well. I use it on
average maybe twice a month, just shooting at a small target in my back yard.
It is surprisingly powerful. I had to reinforce my homemade target because it
kept blowing arrows straight through the back and into my shed.

me all
(/member/seanwhalen/)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FCY/PHZL/HWLD28BP/FCYPHZLHWLD28BP.LARGE.jpg)

kelsch (/member/kelsch/)

3 months ago

Reply (C53HJXHHWJJUAV2)

when you are "Tillering" the bow how and when do you know to stop? do you just
please help!

(/member/kelsch/)
guess?

kelsch (/member/kelsch/)

3 months ago

Reply (CMWNTY3HWJJUAES)

What kind of bow string do I use and where can I find it?
(/member/kelsch/)

1201004 (/member/1201004/)

5 months ago

Reply (C8Y1PZOHUWJFOPE)

wouldn't the grain split apart? I'm making a flatbow out of osage and I'm getting the
to one growth ring. Just wondering.

(/member/1201004/)
back down

obi wan kaoni (/member/obi+wan+kaoni/)

5 months ago

Reply (CN0P761HURHSQAR)

this is brilliant and i just rang the wood shop up to order a peice of maple how ever
to be 5inch thick can i still run with that or would it be better to buzz
it down to 3inch and if it were to stay at 5inchs would that increase the poundage

(/member/obi+wan+kaoni/)
i think its going

on it ?

charlesian2000 (/member/charlesian2000/)
5 months ago

Reply (CPPRGIWHUBWNG3D)

It's very interesting the way you've

(/member/charlesian2000/)
cut the bow.

Looking at the end grain, where you

can see the rings. you've cut across
these instead of going with the rings.
Hey it works, but it definitely a
different way to do it.

ElCubano (/member/ElCubano/)

Reply (COEFVB6HSGFXVPV)

7 months ago

If you paint this like Katniss' s bow it will look badass!

(/member/ElCubano/)

boredinclass94 (/member/boredinclass94/)

4 years ago

Reply (COCUKRWGEE03QNK)

thinking about making this, anyone know what would be the best wood for this
project?
(/member/boredinclass94/)

survivalist at home (/member/survivalist+at+home/)

7 months ago

maple or yew

boredinclass94
Reply (COJPTFLHRN4GW7T)

(/member/survivalist+at+home/)

Zetsumeimaru (/member/Zetsumeimaru/) boredinclass94

Reply (CFAHIWZHOSP41BY)
10 months ago

Osage Orange/bodark/bois d'arc,

call it, is some of the
best wood for making bows. Hell
"bois d'arc" is French for wooden
bow. If you can find a knot free
length of the stuff, GET IT.

how ever you

(/member/Zetsumeimaru/)

afridave (/member/afridave/)

boredinclass94
3 years ago

yew.....its expensive and rare so

dont bother.......orange
(/member/afridave/)
osage,lemonwood are easyily
available in the USA i
believe...........basically any dense
hardwoods are capable of making
reasonable bows..........ive read oak
with a hickory strip glued on the
back works well.............

spooninbrian (/member/spooninbrian/)

The best wood for making bows is

Oak is the next best
thing.

Reply (C8YVRKVGSNQEE3R)

boredinclass94
Reply (CS55K4FGH4A5YTJ)
3 years ago

dead wood,
(/member/spooninbrian/)

MR.builderguy (/member/MR.builderguy/)

where might I get deadwood? what is

it anyway?
(/member/MR.builderguy/)

spooninbrian
Reply (CTJ4BSWGIWZLY12)
3 years ago

Tool Using Animal (/member/Tool+Using+Animal/) (author) boredinclass94

Reply (C0RQD3PGEE03SYK)
4 years ago

read the comments

(/member/Tool+Using+Animal/)

oneofakind3 (/member/oneofakind3/)

8 months ago

Reply (CPI0NLXHR3EJ5RT)

Is there any more simpler tools that I can use besides a table saw?
(/member/oneofakind3/)

oneofakind3 (/member/oneofakind3/)

8 months ago

Reply (C2HIO1WHR4SOT1K)

also hickory, ash, elm, and oak.

(/member/oneofakind3/)

PLUCK YEW (/member/PLUCK+YEW/)

9 months ago

Reply (CZO2DIYHPPIK4DZ)

Nock wedges????? do you get fries and a coke with that?

(/member/PLUCK+YEW/)

PLUCK YEW (/member/PLUCK+YEW/)

9 months ago

Reply (CIC3CI5HPO2E7K4)

oh boy...
(/member/PLUCK+YEW/)

mje (/member/mje/)

(/member/mje/)

11 months ago

Reply (CEFNTLNHNK9PM6U)

Very nice! I've done a few similar self bows with a heavy kraft paper backing. I
don't have a table saw, so I use an inexpensive bandsaw and clean up the
edges with a mix of belt sander and rasps.

zwells (/member/zwells/)

1 year ago

Reply (CXOW4X4HLPS38TI)

What do you mean "ease the corners"

(/member/zwells/)

wtannebe (/member/wtannebe/)

1 year ago

Reply (CWTNIH5HKEWQT41)

Can you give instructions for the jig used for cutting the limbs?
(/member/wtannebe/)

Doug1965 (/member/Doug1965/)

1 year ago

Reply (CB0E4J5HJKC6B2J)

In step 6, why have the nocks not been cut in yet?

(/member/Doug1965/)

zwells (/member/zwells/)

Doug1965

1 year ago

Reply (CZWXO9OHKE9MHSK)

The knocks aren't cut they are secured on.

(/member/zwells/)

rchoppy (/member/rchoppy/)

2 years ago

Reply (CU6JU0RH4AG0084)

I'm a little knew to bow terms. About how strong does one have to be to use this
maximum strength? How would someone make a weaker bow if
required? I'm looking to make a bow like this for my girlfriend, but I really doubt
she has the armstrength to pull a very powerful bow.

bow to it's
(/member/rchoppy/)

Jaygo (/member/Jaygo/)

rchoppy

1 year ago

Reply (CVQX2M2HJGE1YAU)

You need some method of "weighing" the draw. I use a spring plunger
scale of the type used to weigh fish but it goes heavier. I attach the scale to
(/member/Jaygo/)
my string and pull it to draw lengths.as I go. You shave the limbs lightly as
you go so you can reduce it to whatever you want. Most hunting bows go
from a minimum of about 45# to about 60# at full draw. For simply target
shooting, 35# is a popular weight. For smaller women or kids from about
10-12yrs, 20#-35# is a good weight range. These are just rough averages.
You can make them whatever you or the intended used is comfortable with.

RIKZAK66 (/member/RIKZAK66/)

1 year ago

Reply (COWZXZDHFSHT2ZR)

Hey Tool Using Animal,

question. How did you made the bow string???

I have a little
(/member/RIKZAK66/)

gcaces (/member/gcaces/)

1 year ago

Reply (CB5VXLOHFD15U2T)

hey, i know this is out of the topic, but is mahogany a good bow wood?
(/member/gcaces/)

IamGOD Biotches (/member/IamGOD+Biotches/) 1 year ago

Reply (CCSQ9MWHFD190XC)

how many pounds of force does this exact bow have? do you know?
(/member/IamGOD+Biotches/)

ro.duro2010 (/member/ro.duro2010/)

1 year ago

Reply (CJPI8DVHF23T4TO)

Hey boss,
I have to thank
(/member/ro.duro2010/)

you cause you got me into making bow and my owns strings.
I took the initial ideas from your instructible but turned out the piece that I bought
had a defect a 4ft so I had to cut it there. So I made a short 4ft pyramid bow and it
was allot of work seeing as I didnt want to use any powertools. I made it pull 50pds
bends 11inches on both sides at max pull and the string is made from good old
hemp cord. Made a waxed hemp endless loop bowstring that works like a dream
just gotta twist it a bit sometimes but so far so good
So yeah.
Thanks very much for the instructible and ill upload the pics in the time being. In
the meanwhile making the exact same idea except 7ft instead of 4 cause I found a
nice straight piece and I wanna make an epic longbow from it

-ro

vandejake (/member/vandejake/)

1 year ago

Reply (COG56CBHELX4CXI)

currently on my forth home depot oak board bow, so far no failures, I have
three flat bows (similar to pyramid) and currently tillering a 78" american
longbow 50# @ 28". One thing not discussed in this DIY is the use of backing
once you get the back of the bow shaped (the tapers) consider backing it to
keep it together during the tiller stage, using simple wood glue and any linen
(or glass) will do nicely pull it tight clamp it on the nocks and it shouldn't
explode as you work it. over all great DIY buddy!

built
(/member/vandejake/)

DarkHood (/member/DarkHood/)

this bow looks awesome so going to make it

(/member/DarkHood/)

afridave (/member/afridave/)

1 year ago

Reply (CF86Z5UHDXM94TC)

3 years ago

Reply (CXQWCK3GSNQEE2W)

yesterday i broke my third bow on the tiller.........first one was oak which broke at
38 pounds at 28 inches....i was aiming for 40 pounds...........second one was
(/member/afridave/)
imboia which i broke on purpose ...it was well over 50 pounds and about 29 inches
when it broke
last one was iroko which i was very carefull with ...i was aiming at 35 pounds at 28
inches ........it broke at about 33 pounds at 28 inches.......
so im rethinking all of this.......ive been attempting the longbow concept that bends
through the handle but yesterday i glued a riser on a piece of iroko and will attempt
again with this new method.......i build as long as my wood will allow........the oak
was 6 ft long..........the iroko are both 70 inches as i get two equal staves out of
one piece of wood.......i think one of my mistakes is that im starting with my rough
shape to thin and not leaving enough timber to reach my desired draw
weights.......not sure what im learning but will get it right eventually.................i
believe breaking bow may in the long run be more educational than it seems......
...."a fully drawn bow is a 7/8 ths broken bow"

Jaygo (/member/Jaygo/)

afridave

1 year ago

Reply (CE30ZTGHD7U1SX0)

This build does not fully explain tillering. There's more to it than shown. He
to form but that's all.
A bow should be 'exercised' on the tillering bar, pulling it to varying degrees
starting from light to greater bends as you progress. It wouldn't hurt to flex
the bow at least a dozen times at each stage of shaping. In the end, it
doesn't hurt to tiller a couple inches beyond your target draw. That can help
prevent failure if the bow is over drawn. Such tillering can also reduce
string follow.

tillered
(/member/Jaygo/)

Kynan4th (/member/Kynan4th/)

4 years ago

Reply (CE0B34GGB44OFTB)

i think i shall make a pyramid bow, ive got nothing better to do, but i reckon ill save
ash, itll be harder to work, but worth it if i succeed, but with the height
thing, should i do longbow measurements? height of the archer plus a hand?
because 6' 4" of ash, plus the handle bit, is gunna cost alot

up for some
(/member/Kynan4th/)

Jaygo (/member/Jaygo/)

Kynan4th

1 year ago

Reply (C8VJO2MHD7U1SWP)

Check hardware stores for tool handles. Many are made of ash, hickory or
hardwoods.

other "white"
(/member/Jaygo/)

To the many comments about what type of wood to use, hark back to the
beginning of this build along. He recommends a red oak board. You can
find these anywhere lumber is sold, they are not expensive and just the
thing to make a bow until you improve your technique. Learn to make a
good bow first before going on to more exotic- and expensive- woods.
Another thought on backing came from another site. It recommended using
layers of the drywall net stuff for seams and patching built up in layers with
wood glue. It's durable, cheap and easy to make, and works.

blaflair (/member/blaflair/)

Kynan4th

3 years ago

Reply (CJX7CQOGR9SY8MF)

i bought a rough cut board of ash with nice straight grain and free of knots
8 bux. then they planed it for me. i am in the process of making
the handle. it seems like its gonna be sweet though. i went with ash rather
than oak. it seems like more ppl recomend it

for i think
(/member/blaflair/)

afridave (/member/afridave/)

blaflair

3 years ago

Reply (CFNL30JGSNQEE3G)

i believe oak backed with a hickory strip is very good....i live in south africa
find a piece of hickory for love or money.........

and cannot
(/member/afridave/)

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