Msbjournal April 2007

Vol.
I Issue II
In This Issue
- F
acticum II
Frrame Lofting Pr
Practicum
- Sailing Ship Rigs
- Galleon San F
Frrancisco
The MSB Journal
Vol.I Issue II
The MSB Journal

Volume I, Issue II
April 2007
www.modelshipbuilder.com
All articles published in The MSB Journal

are covered under international copyright laws.
This newsletter may be re-distributed freely as long as it remains,

whole, intact and un-altered. We also urge you to print a copy
for your workshop or reading area.
Published by
Front Cover
Photo
Mr. Bob Hunt
Strasburg, Virginia, USA
How to Contact The MSB Journal

By email: msbjournal@modelshipbuilder.com
By Snail-Mail
ModelShipBuilder.com
c/o Winston Scoville
5 St. Charles Place RR 5
Clinton, Ontario, N0M 1L0
Canada
Vol.I Issue II
In This Issue
Editors Notes
Letters to the Editor
So You Want To Build A Model Ship
Frame Lofting Practicum Part II
Clubs & Organizations
Ships From The Past
Jigs & Things
Galleon San Francisco
Sailing Ship Rigs
Crossword & Trivia
Contributors Pictures
Plans - Frigate Rigged Privateer
Vol.I Issue II
The Editors Corner

Originally when I decided to put out
The MSB Journal I was thinking that
it would be a quarterly publication.
That was the plan...really!
Well...so much for plans :-).
After a bit of mulling things over, and comments and
suggestions from you the readers I thought I would just send them out
as I am able to complete them.
This month we have some minor changes based on the content I was
able to put together. And a special thanks to those of you who have
sent in content. Hopefully, in the future well see more of this from the
readers.
One special addition to this issue has been a section on Contributors
Pictures. I hope that for future editions you will send in some pictures
of your models so that others can see what other modelers are doing
out there. They dont even have to be of completed models. Works in
progress are just as good.
Also, Id like to mention that if you have a modeling group that is
holding some kind of special event this year, send us the details and
well do our best to get the word out.
Okay, on to the Journal.
Happy Reading!
Winston Scoville
The MSB Journal
P.S. Be sure to pass on the word about The MSB Journal to your friends
and fellow modelers.
Vol.I Issue II
Letters to the Editor

Have questions? Comments? Or are just
looking for information? Let us know by
sending an email to
msbjournal@modelshipbuilder.com
Future Ship Modeler
A big thank you for the first issue, I am
completely new to ship modeling, but
have wanted to build a ship model for
many years, first I bought Longridges
book on HMS Victory, then the two
volumes by Harold A Underhill on Plank
on Frame models more than 20yrs ago,
I have since bought more in the last
few months, Shipmodeling Simplified by
Frank Mastini and The Art of
Shipmodelling by Frolich, plus a few
others, I also subscribe to Hubert
Sicards site, Shipmodelling for
Dummies, which I think is a great
resource, I have decided on a Model
Shipworld kit of Bluenose as my first
model (I do have a modeling
background, RC aircraft and model
engineering) so I feel it is a good
choice, not too complicated, but
enough to test me. As for input, being
new I dont feel in the position, but I
will surely ask questions if need be,
once again THANK YOU, Frank
Kit Bashing
Ive been modeling these wooden ships
now for about six years and have
completed three kit models and am
now working on another one and have
completed one scratch built ship and
Im now making a scratch build of a
battle station of the USS Constitution
and am also kit bashing a Constructo
riverboat into a real Mississippi
riverboat. All the while, Ive been a
member of several model forum, and
have read countless books and articles
on the web, but Ive seen very little on
the subject of kit bashing. Through
my own work, Ive learned a lot when
it comes to bashing a kit, but Id love
to see how others have taken on this
concept. This would be a great article
if someone is up to it. Thanks, CB
Thompson
(Thanks Frank, a mere email is enough

of an input. It lets us know that this is
a worthwhile project. MSBJ)
Congradulations on an outstanding
initial edition of your journal. I am
sending information regarding it to
some of my friends who are just
starting out in the model shipyard
hobby. I wish you much success with
your new publication. I look forward to
the next edition.
From Greece
Thanks and congratulations for the first
issue of your journal. EXCELLENT WORK
AND INFORMATIVE STYLE. May you
reach issue XXXX and see what youve
started take a life of its own.
Congratulations again!
Vasilis Tsonides, (Chalkis, Greece)
(Wow! Imagine, a mere 20 years ago it
would take a couple of weeks to
receive a letter from Greece here in
Canada! Today.a few seconds!
Thanks Vasilis, we hope the same
thing! MSBJ)
(Great idea there CB. Any takers out

there? Let us know! MSBJ)
By the way....you have an interesting

website. Keep up the good work.
Bob Lafferty
(Thanks Bob. Keep spreading the
word. The more interest there is the
better it can be in the long run. MSBJ)
Vol.I Issue II
Want
Ship
So You W
ant to Build a Model S
hip
The quality of your Tools can determine
the quality of your model!
In the last issue we had a look at how
to get started in building model ships.
In this issue we are going to start
discussing some of the basic tools that
you need. Well continue in future
issues with more tools.
Contrary to what most people seem to
think before they get started in building
model ships, you do not need a lot of
tools to get started. There are some
basic tools that you will have in your
tool box that you will use for every
build you do. The rest, you can
accumulate over time as you find you
need them. As well, there are many jigs
and things that you can build to help
make various tasks easier.
If theres one piece of advice that I
could pass on right here at the
beginning, its that you should shop
around. Not so much looking for the
deals (though that is important too),
but rather for the quality. A good
quality tool will last you a life time (not
to mention save money in the long run
as well) and even if you decide not to
build models it will remain in your
toolbox ready to use for whatever
project you may need it for. Theres
nothing worse than a chisel that cant
hold its sharpness. It can and usually
will make a mess of the work you are
trying to accomplish giving you less
than the desirable results.
Though I make mention of specific

tools by specific manufacturers in this
article it is not to say that they are
the only ones out there that make
good quality tools. It is merely an
extension of my experience with the
tools I have come in contact with in
the brief time I have been modeling.
Lets get cutting
So where do we start? Most of the
tools we will talk about you probably
already have in your toolbox. The main
difference between what you have
now and what you need to build model
ships is in their size for there are a lot
of large scale tools that are useless to
you as a model builder merely because
of their size.
One of the first tools you will need is a
Hobby Knife. They come in varying
sizes and shapes with a multitude of
different blades.
Heres just a few:
Vol.I Issue II
Hobby knives also come in a wide

variety of price ranges and quality as
well.
They can be purchased at any well

stocked hobby shop or craft store at a
reasonable price.
For example, the Veritas Carvers Knife

below is designed to use standard
disposable scalpel blades and even
comes with 12 razor-sharp high carbon
blades.
While there, (you didnt travel all that

way just to pick up one of these saws,
right?) you may as well also pickup a
miter box. A very handy item to have.
A lot of modelers will develop their own
style of miter box tools over time (see
issue I of the MSB Journal Jigs &
Things for an example).
In the next issue we will examine a
couple of more tools for your
workshop.
Veritas Carvers Knife
For the basic price of this knife you can

pick up two or more of the above kits.
However, over time, you will find that it is
a reasonable price to pay for a tool of
such quality. Made of anodized aluminum,
it features a solid brass Collette which
makes changing blades a breeze. The oval
shape of the handle means that its not
going to go rolling around your workbench
or off it onto the floor, or even worse,
into your leg!
More cutting
There a time and a place to use the
proper cutting tools to do the job, so
another tool youll need is a Razor or
Jewel Cutters Saw. These too come in
varying sizes and price ranges. One of the
most popular saws with modelers seems
to be those made by X-acto.
New Period Ship Handbook

by Keith Julier
A completely revised edition of the
Period Ship Handbook, originally
published in 1992. The basic modeling
instructions have been
comprehensively updated and nine of
the eleven model projects are brand
new, as are all the color and black and
white illustrations. New models include
HMS Victory and the Victorys Launch,
the Lady Nelson, the Clara May and
HMS Mars.
Available at our online store
X-acto Razor Saws
Vol.I Issue II
Halifax
This month on the cover of The MSB Journal we are featuring a model kit by Bob Hunt at
Lauck Street Shipyard LLC.
The Halifax kit is Lauck Street Shipyards second true plank on frame kit in the
Craftsman style. The kit is based on the plans drawn by Harold M. Hahn with his
permission. It isa stylized kit and is not meant to be an exact replica of the actual ship.
Some changes in the ships design were made to enable lesser experiencd modelers the
opportunity to build a true plank on frame model without the need for special power tools,
lots of shop space or considerable model shipbuilding experience. However, these changes
do not take away from the beauty of an admiralty style model.
Here are some of the notable features of the Halifax true plank on frame kit:
1/4" scale (approximately 14" long)
Includes plans for rigging
Brass belaying pins
2 photo CDs included
Hahn style building jig included
11 sheets of original printed plans

Fittings includes resin cast parts
Full color practicum, printed and bound
All parts CNC milled
Deadeyes and brass to make chainplates included
The price for this kit is $650.00 plus $30.00 shipping and handling.
Cant afford to buy the kit outright? Not to worry. Lauck Street Shipyard also offers a
payment plan which is rather unique in the modeling industry. Simply make minimum
payments on your model of $100.00 at your convienience until its paid in full and then
they will ship your kit to you.
To learn more about this true plank on frame kit go to www.lauckstreetshipyard.com
Be sure to drop Bob a line and let him know how you found out about his site.
Vol.I Issue II
Frame Lofting Practicum

Part II
A simple method that will allow you to loft frames for a built-up ship Model
Clayton Johnson http://claytonsships.blogspot.com
The first thing that you will have to do when coming up with frame tracings if you havent
already through your research, is to establish the thickness of your frames, from the inside of
the hull to the outside. Many times your plan will give you at least a hint of frame thickness.
Otherwise you may just have to look at general practice. In the case of the Wasa plans that
are available right now, you are given several cross sections that denote thickness.
Image Courtesy of Statens Maritima Museer

and drawn by Eva Marie Stolt
If you examine the frame drawings

above, they show the frames as being
the same thickness at the same
relative lavational point. I used the
deck levels for this determination since
the frames seemed to stay the
same thickness at each deck line even
though the decks slope up towards the
stern and up less obviously towards
the bow. You will need to study your
plans and figure out these relationships
before you start drawing. At the least
you will need to figure out a few
reference lines as to where you are
going to make thickness measurements
and determinations. Notice how I drew
in red lines to denote where I took
common frame width measurements
from. All of this will fit in to our
discussion in a minute.
In the above picture I have drawn the

red lines along my deck reference
points just to show you how one part
of the plan corresponds to another.
And to show you as well where, on the
hull line diagram, that we are going to
be drawing our frame. Notice it is in
between hull section #38 and
#40. (you may have to click on it to
get a larger version)
For the purposes of this practicum, I

am going to show you how to draw a
frame at the bow of the ship where
there is a lot of bevel because of the
hull shape changing rapidly. These are
the tougher kinds of frames to draw
since, at the middle portion of the
ship, the bevels almost disappear and
the frames are square.
Notice in the framing diagram on the

next page that we came up with in the
last section based on our knowledge of
shipbuilding practices of the time, that
between section #38 and section #40,
there are four frames. They are
numbered 86 through 89. You can click
on this picture in order to get a larger,
more detailed view.

Vol.I Issue II
a line on the inside of section lines #38

and #40 that denote the outside
surface of the frames. The thickness of
the outside planking at the scale that I
am working at, and hence the amount
of space that I had to move the line
towards the inside of the ship
happened to be about 3/32".

In the above picture I have drawn the

red lines along my deck reference
points just to show you how one part
of the plan corresponds to another.
And to show you as well where, on the
hull line diagram, that we are going to
be drawing our frame. Notice it is in
between hull section #38 and
#40. (you may have to click on it to
get a larger version)
Notice in the framing diagram on the
next page that we came up with in the
last section based on our knowledge of
shipbuilding practices of the time, that
between section #38 and section #40,
there are four frames. They are
numbered 86 through 89. You can click
on this picture in order to get a larger,
more detailed view.
So, between hull sections #38 and #40
on the hull shape diagram we need
to put four frames. This is achieved in
two steps. First, since most plans have
their hull shape lines on the outside of
the planking, we need to subtract the
width of the outside planking and add
The second step is actually taking the

distance between the two new lines
that you drew on your plan and
dividing it up equally through
measurement so that there are four
lines that will denote the outside edge
of each of the frames between the
two hull section lines. Notice in the
below diagram, since I started from the
midship section and worked forward,
the aft line that subtracts the planking
thickness will not be an outside edge
of a frame in this series. It was the
forward, outside edge in the last series
of frames between hull sections #34
and #38. Notice in the below picture
how almost every section is divided up
in this way since this picture was
taken after all of the frame tracings
were drawn.
Vol.I Issue II

I divided the distance between hull lines up in many different places using a ruler, made
tick marks on the division lines, and then connected them by hand.
The next step involves taking our plan with the divided up sections and placing it on the
light table. I like to tape the edges down so it doesnt go anywhere. Next, take a piece of
blank computer paper and lay it over the hull line drawing. Get this piece of paper where
you want it and tape it down as well.
Then turn on your light table and draw in horizontal reference lines as you see them
through the paper. These are denoted as VL lines on the plan.
Vol.I Issue II
Now, for the next step, we need to

remember what frame we are on.
There were four frames in between hull
sections #38 and #40. These frames
are numbered 86 to 89. For this
practicum we are going to draw frame
#88. This means that we have to look
at the third line in our sequence that
divides the space evenly between
these hull sections. This is because
frame #88 is the third frame in this
sequence.
Remember that I went over how I was

going to use the level of the deck in
order to reference my frame thickness?
The levels of these decks are the next
things that need to be drawn.
In order to start actually drawing the

frame, we start by tracing this third
line from the beginning of the
sequence as is shown below. Notice
also, the centerline of the frame is
drawn on the diagram at the center of
the keel.
I apologize in advance for the chunky/

uneven nature of these drawings. I did
the drawing in paint so that I could
give you a clear digital image and
present the main concepts.
The frame tracing at the end of this
section is much better and will be most
like what your end results will be.
Now, for the next step, we need to

remember what frame we are on.
There were four frames in between hull
sections #38 and #40. These frames
are numbered 86 to 89. For this
practicum we are going to draw frame
#88. This means that we have to look
at the third line in our sequence that
divides the space evenly between
these hull sections. This is because
frame #88 is the third frame in this
sequence.
Vol.I Issue II
In order to start actually drawing the

frame, we start by tracing this third
line from the beginning of the
sequence as is shown below. Notice
also, the centerline of the frame is
drawn on the diagram at the center of
the keel.
Next, we need to remember our frame

thicknesses at the reference lines that
we designated for them. Measure along
each reference line to the thickness of
the frame, remember that in this case
they were the levels of the decks, and
make a tick mark on the inside edge of
the frame. Do this along each of your
references. Now you will have the
inside edge of the frame once you
connect your tick marks. Additional
tick marks can be made between the
references by going back and
measuring your cross section
references. This will give you more to
guide your hand as you connect your
tick marks.
Now, it is time to draw in a bevel.

Remember that we are at the bow of
the ship and on the port side. Along
the floors, the hull is coming up and
along the sides of the ship the hull is
turning in. We show this by placing
a dotted line to represent our bevel at
the location of what will be the very
aft outside edge of the next frame. Or
in other words, it will be at the next
line that divides the space between
hull sections #38 and #40.
Next we want to add the inside bevel.

To represent this, we draw a dotted
line along what will be the inside aft
edge of the next frame
Vol.I Issue II
Now, it is time to draw in a bevel.

Remember that we are at the bow of
the ship and on the port side. Along
the floors, the hull is coming up and
along the sides of the ship the hull is
turning in. We show this by placing
a dotted line to represent our bevel at
the location of what will be the very
aft outside edge of the next frame. Or
in other words, it will be at the next
line that divides the space between
hull sections #38 and #40.
It is important to realize that for the

other side of the ship, the bevels for
the counterpart frame will be to the
same degree but will be decreasing/
increasing on the opposite side.
The below picture shows the locations
of the ends of the framing members
drawin in red. In order to get these we
look at our framing diagram and note
that the top of the second futtock
ends right below VL 10, the bottom of
the top timber ends slightly above VL
8, the top of the first futtock and the
bottom of the second futtock is right
around VL 5, and the wronghead or
end of the floor timber is around VL 4.
Next we want to add the inside bevel.

To represent this, we draw a dotted
line along what will be the inside aft
edge of the next frame.
Vol.I Issue II
Now, we can turn our light table off

and our frame tracing is complete.
use traditional frame lofting methods or

simply use the Charles Davis method
that is outlined in the next section and
shape your cant frames to the moulds.
When all of your frame tracings are
complete, you will have the fun part
right in front of you: using them.
I first cut each frame tracing out.
Then I traced a framing member, such
as the floor timber, on a billet. This
billet had to be slightly thicker than,
and the same kind of wood as the
desired result. Next, I cut the framing
member out on the scroll saw. I then
took the framing member and put it
through my thickness sander to get it
to the desired dimension.
The above picture shows the frame

still on the light table and the below
picture shows it as a scanned image.
Click on either to get a bigger, more
detailed view.
Now, repeat this process with all of

your frames and you will have a full
set of frame drawings for your model!
It should be mentioned here that if
your model is unlike the Wasa in that
it has cant frames, you will not be
able to draw them using the method
outlined thus far. You may have to
I went through this process on all of

my framing members from the bow to
the stern. There are 8 framing
members in a frame on my model and
92 frames. This comes out to 736
framing members! There are
actually more if you count the fashion
piece, hawse timbers, and filling pieces
that go between the fashion piece,
hawse, and the first full frames.
On the keel of my model, I drew in hull

sections and positions of floor timbers
for reference as they were on my
framing plan. If you click on the above
picture you may be able to make out
some of the lines on the top of the
keel. The most obvious thing about
this picture is that there are
pine moulds cut to hull lines at proper
locations along the keel. These were
Vol.I Issue II
installed by drilling small holes in the

keel and the moulds, inserting small
nails and gluing them down with cyano
acrylate. Then, before the glue dried,
it was made sure that they were
square to the keel and straight up and
down by checking with building
squares.
You will also notice that there is pine
lath going from one mould to the other.
This is to ensure that the outside
edges of the frames were controlled so
as to be placed in the proper location.
This is a version of the Charles Davis
method that he describes in his book,
The Built-up Ship Model.
Besides being a great method, it
coincidently ended up approximating
the way that the real ship was framed.
The Wasa was framed in the Dutch
method which entailed planking the
vessel before laying in framing
members. Also, on the lath is marked
locations of top timbers taken directly
from my framing diagram.
The next picture shows a view towards

the stern of the ship looking into the
hull before another mould is added. You
can see that due to the preliminary
work of drawing our framing diagram
and frame tracings, our frames need
little sanding and sit with a smooth run
fore and aft on both the inside and
out.
The next picture shows the framing

operation in a more advanced state. I
was a little surprised that the bevels I
drew on my frame tracings ended up
working so well when it came to
matching the slope on the lath
between moulds and frames. Notice
how I am pulling the frames that were
just glued in close to the lath that
controls them with c-clamps. Also,
how I used a regular repeating pattern
in the woods that I selected for
framing. I varied the woods and used a
repeating pattern so that the solid
parts of the framing would show
discern framing members. The selection
of woods that you will use will have to
do with the visual objective that you
have for your model.
Vol.I Issue II
And the completed framing.....
In the next issue of The MSB Journal we start another multi-part practicum
by Clayton Johnson on Carving.
Vol.I Issue II
The Great Lakes Model Boat Association
MODEL EXPO 2007

To be held at the Kitchener City Hall
in Kitchener, Ontario Canada
June 30 - July 1.
This event is held every 2 years. The

2005 event attracted 117 entries.
Hosted by the Golden Triangle Marine
Modellers, the event is open to all ship
models whether scale or R/C.
Categories include, Naval, Pleasure,
Working, Sail, Ships-in-a-Bottle,
Standoff Scale, Miniatures (1/500 and
smaller), Submarines. More categories
will be added if required.
Each of these categories is broken
down into Kit, Semi-Kit and
Scratchbuilt groups with First,
Second and Third place awards.
There will be a Best of Show Award,
Peoples Choice Award, and a Best
Example of R/C Animation Award.
There will be narrated scale running
exhibitions on the City Hall reflecting
pool Saturday and Sunday.
For more info please contact:

Jack Kipfer - Ph: (519)884-0960
Bob Farrant (905)270-0874
Address: GLMBA, 559 Killbear Court, Waterloo Ont., N2V 2R9
Email- glmba@rogers.com
Have an event? Let us know.

Vol.I Issue II
Bobcaygeon
FUN FLOAT
Saturday, July 7, 2007
10:00 a.m. - 4:00 p.m.
A Fun Day for All Types of

Scale Ship Models
Riverview Park
Mill St., Bobcaygeon
Across from Forbert Pool
Come and participate in a great

day for scale ship models,
sailboats and submarines in a
great location. Parade of
Ships, regatta course for
those interested in trying
Precision Sterring and
Predicted Log, lunch Barbecue.
For more information contact:

Dan Sinstead
Ph: (705) 738-1335
email: danmodel@peterboro.net
Vol.I Issue II
Clubs & Organizations with a Web Presence

Each month we display a list of clubs and organizations from around the world which you may find
useful in your modeling. You will find everything from general modeling clubs to websites where you can
pursue research on projects you are working on. You can check at the MSB website for a more
complete list (www.modelshipbuilder.com/resources/links.html).
Confederation Marine Modelers

www.simplesite.com/confederationmarinemodelers
A remote control model boat club located in Hamilton, Ontario Canada.
Meetings held the second Tuesday of each month at the Hamilton Steam Museum on
Woodward Ave.
For more information contact: Doug Grinyer dgrinyer1@cogeco.ca
Vol.I Issue II
Past
Ships from the P
ast
Contemporary illustration of the

Armada campaign of 1588. The
ship centre right is thought to
be Revenge
Early 17th century action

between Spanish and Dutch
ships. The Spanish vessel
(center) is probably similar to
the Apostle class.
Ships such as this one often frequented the

coastal waters around the island of
Newfoundland on a seasonal basis during the
17th and 18th centuries. Ship detail from a
French woodcut of unknown origins. In
1710, a similar scene appeared on the
Herman Moll map of North America with the
English description, A VIEW OF A STAGE &
ALSO YE MANNER OF FISHING FOR, CURING
& DRYING COD AT NEWFOUNDLAND.
Vol.I Issue II
Things
Jigs & T
hings
This issue we have a few more helpful jigs & things for your workshop.
Most of which you can build yourself. Again, this month they come from
Mr. Hubert Sicard at Model Ship Building For Dummies
www.shipmodeling.net.
Here we have a simple office carosel which you

can pick up in most stores that have an office
supplies section. Great for storing your basic
tools and thing.
Heres another handly little setup that Hubert calls The Crab. Its great for when you are
working on the rigging of your model.
Vol.I Issue II
San
Galleon S
an Francisco
(aka Florencia)
Being a brief description of a Spanish galleon
during the Spanish Armada of 1588
By: Clayt Rakes
After acquiring Artesania Latinas San Francisco kit and reading the brief description of
this galleon on the box, I quickly developed an interest in both Spanish galleons and the
Armada of 1588. Over the next couple of weeks I searched the internet in vain for
information on the San Francisco. I was surprised to find virtually no information on this
particular galleon, or others that participated in the Armada.
After conducting some research and reading several books (see the bibliography at the
end of this article) I was able to accumulate details about this ships relatively brief
existence. It is a compelling story that you may find interesting whether or not you plan
to build this model or are interested in maritime history.
The Spanish Armada of 1588 (also known

at the Invincible Fleet or the Enterprise
of England), was a fleet of over 100 ships
and vessils sent out by King Phillip II to
invade England. Due to multiple opposing
factors such as the type of weponry and
tactics used by each side and extreme
weather conditions the invasion fleet failed
and only about 70 ships returned to Spain.
The San Francisco was an active
participant in this fleet, and her history is
an intersting one. What follows is what I
have been able to piece together from
English language publications. It is no
surprise that there are many publications
in Spanish on this same topic; yet, I was
not able to procuce a reliable translation
from any of them.
The galleon San Francisco began her
existence as the Florencia, in fact some
texts refer to her by that name for her
entire career. The Florencia belonged to
the Duke of Tuscany, who was using her to
take advantage of the spice trade that
was disrupted in 1585 by the siege of
Antwerp. After arriving in Lisbon in 1586
the Florencia was held by Spanish

authorities, and eventually impounded in
mid-1587. While being held in Lisbon many
captains and admirals visited the Florencia,
some of who commented on her 52 brass
guns and admired how well she was
constructed. After being requisitioned, the
Florencia was re-named San Francisco (or
San Francesco) and added to Duke of
Medina-Sidonias Squadron of Portugal.
Vol.I Issue II
The type of guns the San Francisco most

likely carried is an interesting point. During
the late sixteenth century naval armament
production included the use of materials
such as cast iron, brass, bronze, and
wrought iron. Unlike many other European
countries, Spain was still using
predominately wrought iron guns on its
ships. These were made of iron rods or
strips that were held together with iron
bands. If the San Francisco had brass (or
bronze) guns it would have been quite
modern by Spains standards and it would
have been thanks to the investment of the
Duke of Tuscany.
In addition to the guns, the carriages that
were likely used are of interest. A typical
period British ship would have been using a
four-wheeled carriage. This is because by
the end of the 16th century many
countries, such as England, were beginning
to move away from boarding tactics to a
focus on standing off and battering the
enemy. Spain, which still considered using
a broadside of heavy gunnery as a brief
and preliminary action prior to boarding,
was still using two wheeled carriages.
These looked mildly similar to contemporary
field artillery pieces and were difficult to
aim and reload on a ship. But it is possible
that if the Duke of Tuscany had invested
in modern guns for the Florencia, he would
have also insisted on four-wheeled
carriages.
Most sources note that the San

Francisco carried 52 guns, this number
would have included all armament from
swivel guns to the largest cannon.
Whatever type of guns the San
Francisco originally carried, by the time
she took part in the Armada 1588 she
may not have possessed all of her
original armament. This is because the

Armada was so short of guns that it was
ordered that they were to be taken from
well-appointed vessels and redistributed
throughout the Armada.
During her participation in the Armada, the
San Francisco was sailed by Captain
Bartoli, who also sailed her for the Duke of
Tuscany before the Spanish impounded
her. The San Francisco was commanded
by Captain Gaspar da Sousa. Unlike
English ships of the period, Spanish ships
were under the control of the commander
of the soldiers not the mariner captain.
As mentioned, the San Francisco sailed as
part of the Squadron of Portugal.
Many resources agree that the San
Francisco was one of the best, if not the
best, constructed and armed galleon in the
Spanish Armada of 1588. She is known to
have taken an active role in many of the
Armada battles, and performed notably
well. After the Armadas return both
Captain Gaspar da Sousa and MedinaSidonia commented on how well and often
the San Francisco participated in the
fighting. One resource points out that
Medina-Sidonia wrote a letter to the Duke
of Tuscany commending the San Francisco
and how well she performed.
Vol.I Issue II
The galleon San Francisco:

960 tons
52 guns, which would include swivel guns,
etc.
400 solders
86 crew
Bibliography:
Following the failure of the Armada, the

San Francisco returned to Santander
(Spain), with nine other ships including the
flagship. Unfortunately, the San Francisco
was so damaged that she was salvaged for
guns and lumber, then left to rot on the
shore. Her Captain Bartoli died the
following day, presumably from wounds
acquired during action against the English.
Some sources (treasure ship books usually)
claim that the San Francisco (or
sometimes the Florencia) sank in
Tobermory Bay on the Isle of Mull,
Scotland where she was sheltering from
the storm that destroyed so many ships of
the Armada. Some claim she sunk as a
result of the magazine being fired by
raiders looking for pay chests or by locals
mad at the Spaniards for refusing to pay
for food and water that they had taken.
An Armada ship did sink in Tobermory Bay,
but it was more likely the San Juan de
Sicilia. The San Juan de Sicilia was
formerly the Brod Martolosi, a
merchantman embargoed by the Spanish in
1586.
Primary References Used:

- State Papers Relating to the Defeat of the
Spanish Armada, 1588, by: John Knox Laughton
(ed)
- The Confident Hope of A Miracle, 2005, by: Neil
Hanson
- The Armada, 1959, by: Garrett Mattingly
- Papers Relating to the Navy During the Spanish
War, 1897, by: Julian S. Corbett (ed)
- Armada Guns, 1962, by: Michael Lewis
- The Spanish Story of the Armada, 1899,
by: James Anthony Froude
- Spanish Galleon 1530-1690, 2004, by: Angus
Konstam and Tony Bryan
- The Armada Campaign 1588: The Great
Enterprise Against England, 2001, by: Angus
Konstam
- Artillery Through the Ages, 1949, by: Albert C.
Mancucy
- A History of Firearms, 1955, by: W. Y. Carman
Pictures
1. "English Ships and the Spanish Armada August
1588" Unknown artist
2. Typical Spanish naval gun of the time. Spanish
Galleon 1530-1690, Konstam
3. Sixteenth-century engraving of a Spanish
galleon by Albrecht Drer.
4. "Defeat of the Spanish Armada 8 August 1588"
by Philippe-Jacques de Loutherbourg 1796
Maritime history would not be the same

without the excitement and mystery that
surrounds the galleon. Many countries
produced galleons, but Spanish galleons
tend to be singled out and romanticized in
both fact and fiction. The San Francisco is
just one window into this fascinating part
of our shared history; but it is an excellent
example of this unique ship.
Vol.I Issue II
Ship
Sailing S
hip Rig
Graham McBride
Maritime Museum of the Atlantic
The sail plans of sailing vessels were many and varied. Beside differences in original
design, a ship might undergo a number of changes, depending upon the whims of her
owner, captain, or builder, the trade she was used in, or local traditions. These changes
were introduced to improve sailing qualities and to provide a rig that could be handled by
a smaller crew, thus paying higher returns to shareholders.
The silhouettes of vessels overleaf represent different rigs of ships
on the east coast of North America during the mid 1800s to the
early 1900s, a period in marine history often referred to as the
golden age of sail.
Sailing ship rigs can be divided into two broad categories: the fore
and aft rig (left), in which the sails lie along the same plane as the
ships fore and aft line; and the square rig (right), in which the sails
are rigged athwart (across) the ship. Each rig had certain
advantages.
The Fore & Aft Rig

The fore and aft rig, or schooner rig, required only a small crew, and was generally used
in the coastal and fishing trades. Ships with this rig could point higher into the wind and
were usually more maneuverable when working in the changing winds along the coast.
The rig was not limited to coastal schooners, and big fore-and-afters could be seen
plying across the Western Ocean bound for European ports, the West Indies, or South
Ameri
Sloop A fore and aft rigged vessel with one mast is a sloop. In the
early 1800s some large sloops traded with the West Indies, but most
sloops in the 19th century were small inshore fishing vessels. In the
20th century, sloops became the most popular rig for yachts.
Grand Bank Fishing Schooner Schooners have two or

more masts with fore and aft sails. Similar to the famous
Bluenose, our example, in addition to all the normal lower
sails, carries a main gaff topsail and a fishermans staysail
set between the masts.
Vol.I Issue II
Two Masted Fishing Schooner in winter rig. Her topmast and

all light upper canvas have been struck, and sent ashore.
Square Topsail Schooner a combination of fore and aft sails

and small square sails. They were popular for coastal trading in
the early 1800s. Prince Edward Island built a number of topsail
schooners and many were sold in Great Britian. A version with
raked masts, called the Baltimore Clipper, was much favoured by
privateersmen in the War of 1812.
Coastal Schooner, the work horse of our coastal trade. She

was probably not much more than a hundred tons, and carried
everything from timber and coal to bricks, general cargo, and a
load of hay to offshore island communities. Our schooner is
shown with only a main topmast, but many also carried a fore
topmast. Note the yawl boat towing astern.
Ketch A two masted sailing vessel where the mizzen mast is

ahead of the rudder. The rig is similar to a schooner but the
main mast (the tallest mast) is the first mast, not the second
mast. Ketches were common in 19th century Europe but rare in
Nova Scotia until they became very popular for yachts in the
20th century.
Four Masted Schooner shown at anchor. This design

attempted to reduce individual sail area, raise
tonnage, and still manage with a small crew. In the
early days sails were hoisted by hand, but gradually
the gasoline hoisting engine was introduced, saving
work, wages, and food. She could operate with eight
hands, and reached 500 to 700 tons. At the turn of
the century these schooners were used in the coastal
trade between Canada and the United States, the
West Indies,
South America, and some trans-Atlantic voyages were made to Europe and West Africa.
Nova Scotians built and operated between seven and eight hundred big schooners, but
by World War I most had passed out of the picture. Along the New England coast a
number of five and six masted schooners were built, plus one seven master, the steel
hulled Thomas W. Lawson.
Vol.I Issue II
Tern Schooner a three master built in great numbers all

along our shores between 1880 and 1920. These vessels
were cargo carriers of between 200 and 400 tons,
requiring a crew of six to eight. Our Tern is shown with
all sails set except staysails between the masts. As the
years went by these softwood vessels would become
waterlogged, sails would wear out, and spars break.
With the inroads made by the steamer, the old
schooners were hard pressed to find a cargo. A few did
survive until World War II.
The Square Rig

The square rig was normally an offshore rig used by vessels making long ocean passages
and taking advantage of the prevailing wind and current patterns of the globe. These
ships varied in size from the small handy brigantines and brigs of a couple of hundred tons
to the great full rigged ships and barques of over two thousand tons. The square rig was
also seen in the coastal trade, where brigs plied their trade up and down the eastern
seaboard.
Brigantine, a two masted vessel square rigged

on the foremast, with fore-and-aft sails on the
mainmast. The drawing shows a typical Bluenose
softwood vessel of about 220 tons, similar to the
Spencers Island built Amazon which later became
the famous mystery ship Mary Celeste. The
brigantine is shown with two staysails set
between the masts.
Brig, a two masted vessel square rigged on both masts.

The brig is a very old and efficient sailing rig, and the
class was still in use up to the very end of commercial
sailing ships. Only a few brigs were built in Nova Scotia
yards, but they were very common in European waters.
Barquentine, a vessel with the foremast rigged

square, and the other masts rigged fore and aft.
Our vessel is similar to the Maid of England of 750
tons built at Grosses Coques in 1919. She was the
last Canadian commercial vessel to carry a square
rig, being abandoned at sea in 1928. Only a small
number of this type were built locally.
Vol.I Issue II
Barque or Bark , usually a three masted

vessel, the fore and main masts square
rigged and the mizzen mast or after mast
rigged fore and aft. The four masted barque
was a relatively common rig on the oceans,
but only two were built in Canada. The John
M. Blaikie was launched in 1885 at Great
Village, and the Kings County launched in
1890 at Kingsport. The barque was a
popular rig, and more of this type were built
than all other square rigs combined. The big
Maitland barque Calburga was the last British North American square rigger of large tonnage
to be on the Canadian registry; she was lost off the coast of Wales in November 1915.
Full Rigged Ship, square rigged on all masts. Staysails could be set between the masts.
Outboard of the square sails might be set studdingsails, and above the royals (uppermost
sails) might be set sails with such names as skysail, moonraker, Trust to God, or Angel
Whispers. The ship William D. Lawrence, built at Maitland N.S. in 1874, was the largest
wooden sailing ship ever built in Canada. Towards the end of their careers some ships
were reduced to barque rig. Many were sold foreign and many others simply were lost
without trace or abandoned at sea.
Within the decade of the 1890s and the early 20th century the disappearance of
the British North American square rigger was swift. Iron, steel and steam, plus
high insurance rates and low freights caused most owners to dispose of their
fleets. For some years they tramped the oceans of the world under foreign flags,
until finally giving up.
Vol.I Issue II
Shipmates of the Old Navy

1
12
20
23
28
35
24
29
41
47
52
48
27
38
43
49
54
56
21
31
42
53
63
26
37
40
46
25
30
36
32
33
44
50
45
51
55
58
64
65
66
69
70
72
74
75
76
77
78
79
74
75
76
77
78
79
Repress, as feelings
Timber tree
__ will be done
Verbalized
Ships carpenter, in the old Royal
Navy
Full of zest
Farm biddy
Unit of electric current
Northern deer
Possess
Kind of drum
39
57
71
11
17
19
22
10
14
16
18
62
13
15
34
62
65
68
69
70
67
59
60
61
68
73
Across
1 Sweet herb
6 Getaway
9 ... two if by __
12 Large fleet
13 Square measure
14 Calf meat
15 Butchers assistant, in the old Royal Navy
17 Dinghy necessities
18 Arabs outer garment
19 Allow
20 Brother of Artemis
22 Gambling mecca
24 Astern
27 Oklahoma city
28 Ships captain, in the old Royal Navy
31 Drench
34 Push, as in a crowd
37 Electrified swimmer
39 Hear ye!
40 Yuck!
41 Once around the field
43 Spike of corn
45 Always, to Burns
46 Three-time Vardon Trophy winner Foster
48 Decompose
50 Range of mountains
52 Exchanges for money
54 Ships cook, in the old Royal Navy
56 Philosopher __-tzu
57 The sun
58 Take five
Down
1 Payola, for example
2 Capital of Jordan
3 Film director Peckinpah
4 Pastoral composition
5 Load up, as a ship
6 Resinlike substance
7 Noahs boat
8 Flat tableland
9 Ships know-it-all, in the old Royal
Navy
10 Viscounts superior
11 Likewise
12 Slightly open
14 Black magic
16 WWII beach
21 Launch area
23 Frequently, in poetry
25 Fixed charge
26 Bonsai, for one
29 Whole schmear
30 Rend
32 Crystal-ball gazer
33 Pound who wrote The Cantos
34 Earthenware bottles
35 Fairy tale monster
36 Yarn-spinning oldster, in the old
Royal Navy
38 Endure
42 Seedcases
44 __ de Janeiro
47 In a willing manner
49 Besides
51 Goof
53 Former French coin
55 Applaud
59 Old anesthetic
60 Divvy up
61 Printed characters
62 Tender
63 Russian mountain range
64 Resound
66 Whirlpool baths
67 Sacred song
71 Cut down, as a tree
72 Hostelry
73 Tax pro: abbr.
Vol.I Issue II
A Little Trivia
WHICH BLOCK GOES WHERE?
By Gene Bodnar
The average sailing ship modeler installs hundreds of blocks on a typical model. If the
modeler is building from scratch, much time is expended in making them to scale and
placing them in their proper locations in the rigging.
There are many varieties of blocks, with one reference listing more than fifty different
types. Some blocks serve a very specific purpose and can be found only in certain areas
of a ship. The following list contains fifteen of them. Can you match the block with its
proper location on a ship?
1. ___ Sister block
6. ___ Tack block
11. ___ Cat block
2. ___ Top block
7. ___ Crowfoot
12. ___ Heart
3. ___ Bee block
8. ___ Monkey block
13. ___ Deadeye
4. ___ Spring block
9. ___ Dee-block
14. ___ Rack block
5. ___ Jewel block
10. ___ Waist block
15. ___ Bollock
A.
B.
C.
D.
E.
F.
G.
H.
I.
J.
K.
L.
M.
N.
O.
Amidships on the bulwarks.

Connected to a ringbolt.
At the end of the main and foretop yards.
At the anchor.
On either side of the bowsprit.
At the lower end of a shroud.
On the bowsprit for leading running Lower yard.
Bolted in a channel to reeve a lift.
Over the clew of a sail.
At the tackle pendants of the topsail yards.
At the center portion of a topsail.
At a suspended awning.
On the side of a mast cap.
At a stay.
Attached with a strap and swivel to a gear.
Vol.I Issue II
Answers for last Issues Crossword
Answers to Which Block Goes

Where?
1-J, 2-M, 3-E, 4-B, 5-C, 6-I, 7-L,

8-O, 9-H, 10-A, 11-D, 12-N, 13-F,
14-G, 15-K
Dremel 750-02 Minimite

13,000 RPM, 2 speed
4.8V Lithium Cordless
Rotary Tool
Designed for precision
drilling, sanding, shaping and
detailing. Small and compact
at only 6-1/4 in. long, the
MiniMite goes anywhere,
anytime and is both fun and
easy to use.
We started counting all the uses for this

little dynamo, but we stopped at 967. We
like it for delicate tasks and finer work
because it isnt as powerful as its big
brothers, so its easier to control. Its light,
extremely maneuverable, the switch is
exactly where you want it and heck, its just
plain fun to use.
Availailable through our store:

Vol.I Issue II
Contibutor Pictures
In this issue we decided to add a little section to display pictures of
some of the models that you have built. You can submit your pictures
to: msbjournal@modelshipbuilder.com.
In this issue well start with a group of pictures that have been sent to
me by my good friend Philip Eisnor of Coldbrook, Nova Scotia Canada.
Keep this in mind, these are just ones he built over the past year! Id
like to complete one a year! :-)
HMS Neptune
Half Moon
La Couronne
Vol.I Issue II
Half Moon
And last but definitely not the least a picture of a model built by Philips
father in 1942 of their yacht at the time the Mist.
Wed love to display some pictures of your models here. You can send
them to msbjournal@modelshipbuilder.com.
Vol.I Issue II
Frigate Rigged - Privateer

Plan XXXVI from Fredrik Henrik af Chapmans Architectura Navalis Mercatoira. High
resolution graphics can be downloaded at www.modelshipbuilder.com/resources/the-msbjournal.html
Info from English Translated Index

Plan XXXVI
Rigging: Frigate Rigging
Guns on deck: 20 - 6 pd shot
Quarter & Forecastle: 2 - 4 pd shot
Swivel Guns: 32 - 3 pd shot
Frigate Rigging
Length between perpendiculars of stem and

sternpost: 116 2/3
Moulded Breadth: 30 2/3
Draught of water abaft: 14 1/4
Height of Gunports above water at
midships: 4 3/4
Pair of oars: 7

Msbjournal April 2007

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The MSB Journal

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All articles published in The MSB Journal

This newsletter may be re-distributed freely as long as it remains,

How to Contact The MSB Journal

The Editors Corner

Letters to the Editor

(Thanks Frank, a mere email is enough

(Great idea there CB. Any takers out

By the way....you have an interesting

Though I make mention of specific

Hobby knives also come in a wide

They can be purchased at any well

For example, the Veritas Carvers Knife

While there, (you didnt travel all that

Veritas Carvers Knife

For the basic price of this knife you can

New Period Ship Handbook

X-acto Razor Saws

11 sheets of original printed plans

Frame Lofting Practicum

Image Courtesy of Statens Maritima Museer

If you examine the frame drawings

In the above picture I have drawn the

For the purposes of this practicum, I

Notice in the framing diagram on the

Image Courtesy of Statens Maritima Museer

a line on the inside of section lines #38

Image Courtesy of Statens Maritima Museer

In the above picture I have drawn the

The second step is actually taking the

Image Courtesy of Statens Maritima Museer

Now, for the next step, we need to

Remember that I went over how I was

In order to start actually drawing the

I apologize in advance for the chunky/

Now, for the next step, we need to

In order to start actually drawing the

Next, we need to remember our frame

Now, it is time to draw in a bevel.

Next we want to add the inside bevel.

Now, it is time to draw in a bevel.

It is important to realize that for the

Next we want to add the inside bevel.

Now, we can turn our light table off

use traditional frame lofting methods or

The above picture shows the frame

Now, repeat this process with all of

I went through this process on all of

On the keel of my model, I drew in hull

installed by drilling small holes in the

The next picture shows a view towards

The next picture shows the framing

And the completed framing.....

The Great Lakes Model Boat Association

MODEL EXPO 2007

This event is held every 2 years. The

For more info please contact:

Have an event? Let us know.

A Fun Day for All Types of

Come and participate in a great

For more information contact:

Clubs & Organizations with a Web Presence