NO.

36

NOTES FROM THE SHOP

OAIECEBOX
English Walllantem
Regulator Clock

$2.50

Sawdust
Number 36

NoviDec, 1984

ARlit" TIllS ISS:. The three projects in

this issue have one thing in common: in

their da~', they were each very practical
EdllOf
items. In fact. their utility probably kept
Donald a. Peschke
lhem from being admired for the beauty of
DesIgn Oorootor
the cabinetwork involved in buildinlnhom.
Teel Kralicek
It would have been easy, for example, to
Asslstam edItors
appreciate the light shining from a wall
Steve Krohme.r
lantern (like the on. shown on page 16)
Dougl .. L. Hicks
\\;thout really ever noticing the lantern
itself. Or to appreciate the convenience of
Art DlfeclOr
storing food in an icebox without really
Kay Mulder
seeing the cabinel
Technical IlIuslralors
Bu! then, at lbe other end of the scale.
David Kteyllng
along comes someene with the eye of
Mike Henry
woodworker ... someone who doesn't $ee
Subscripbon Manager
the lantern or the cabinet either. Rather,
Sandy J. aaum
he looks at a cabinet and begins to see tbe
process of building it.
SubsetiptiOfl !\ssistanlS
Very quickly the cabinet is transformed
Christel Miner
in'"
a series of questions. 'Vbat kind of
VIcky Robinson
joint was used to build the doors? How do
Jacld. Stroud
you make the stop to hold the glass ill
Shirley Feltman
place? How is this molding cut made?
Ann Williams
\\!'hen viewed this "fay, it's eMY to see
Diana Starr
that there's little difference between buildComputer Operabons
ing a "small" project like the lantern or a
Ken Miner
"large" proje<:t lik~ the icebox. Both reo
C,rculation Manager
quire the same woodworking ability.
Joff Farris
However, building a small proje<:t is
AdministratiVe AssIstam
different in one way. Small project>; reCltoryl Scott
quire a certain delicacy. When you're
worlringwith small pieces like these for the
Bulldrng Maintenance
lantern or the clock. you have to develop a
Archie Krause
feel for delicate work.
WOOOSMITH (ISSN 0164-4114)lspubilshed
In fact, J think these two projecl' are
bimonthly (January. March. May. July, SepideaJ for perfecling the skills of cabi'ember. November) by Woodsmllh PubUshlng netmaking. \Vhen working with small
Co.. 2200 Grand Ave., Des Moines, Iowa 50312.
pieces. you begin to focus on the details of
WOODSMITH ss a regIstered lfadema,k of Ih$ what you're doing, and pay more attention
WOOdSmrth Publishing Co.
to each step in the pl"OCeSS.
Copyright 1984 byWoodsmlth Publishing Co
As each step becomes isolated, the abilAll Righls Reserved
ity to concentrate on that task becomes
Subscriptions: One year (6 rssues) $10. Two greater. And that's the key. ConcemrayeBfS (12 ISSues)$18. Srngle copy PflC8. $2,50
lion. Not forced. Just a comfortable feeling
(Canada and Forelgn:add 52 pel year.)
of paying attention to what you're doing.
Change or Addre : Please be sure soInclude
Allhough that may sound more like
boll! your old and new address.
work than fun. I think this comrort.~ble
Second class P08tage paId al Des Moines, concentration is one of the attractions of
Iowa.
woodworking. When your attenucn is foPostma$1et: Send Change of address noooa. cused on the work before you. the worries
Form 3519, 10Woodsmi1ll PubliShing Co.. 2200 and troubles of the day quickly melt away.
Grand Ave.. Des Moines. Iowa 50312.
S~ALI. PROJECTS. Imust confess that we
often receive letters asking for more
BACK ISSUES
"small" projects. Most of the time I think
All bee!< ISSUes01 Woodsm'lh are sbUavailable.
that really means something that's "quick
Send for a _t

descnbing the contents and

pt1ces of all back ISSUes.
SAMPLE COPIES

" you have a lriend who would ~ke 10see. copy

of Wood8mlth. )Ustsand the name and address,
8nd wa'" send 8 sample (8' no cost).

and

eM}',"

Btlt I find it much more rewarding to

work on a projecl that requires something
of me. Maybe I can't get it done in an
evening or over a weekend. But I enjoy the
chaJ.lengeof taking the time to pull a lot of
details logether to build 8 project Uke the

lantern or the dock.

However, I can sec how both of these
projects might seem to be tOOtedious. The
lantern with three Irames that require
mortise and tenon joints. and the clock that
includes a custom-made molding piece,
Th_ details ask for a 101of extra time
and care. But that's the heart of woedworking - enjoying each of the steps in
the PI"OCe>;'<,not trying 10 race to the end of
a Ilroject just to begin another.
WORKIJ'iC B.\CKWARDS. The regulator
clock in this issue presents an inler"sting
chall~nge. I wanted to use a pre-painted
glass pane for the door. That meant ordering the glass first, and then builrling the
clock case around it.
Planning ahead took on a special meaning here because Ihad to start by working
h.'ck\\'ards - from the size of the glass to
the size orthc door. and finally to the size ef
the case. Each step and dimension had to
be planned in reverse,
When I actually started building the
<8..<:(,. I knew I had to be right on the money
or the glass wouldn't fit. There was no way
to get around it, I had to pay attention to
what T was doing.
At first, 1 thought thi. would cause a
great deal of tension and I wouldn't enjoy
this project. But JUSt the opposite was
true. Ibegan to relax and decided Ihal the
onl)' way I was going to get thi" done was
to pretend that I knew what [
doing.
It worked. The CMe and the door both
came out exactly 3Splanned. (\VeII.within
about 1',,' anyway.)
ilACK 'sr.; llooKI :'I'. This issue wraps
up six yean; of publishing \I'ondsmilil.
I)uring that time we've published dozens
of plans and articles on woodworking techniques. '''e've never had a good way to
show nil of the plans that arc available in
back issues. That'S why we decided to publish the I'l'ouds'Iilh Project s, Pla>l8 ,I'
Tedmique booklet.
This booklet was mailed to all of our
subscribers in early November. It contains
photos and descriptions of lhe most popular projects and techniques we've shown in
the past issues. It also has a special form
for ordering the back issue s.
We thought this would be a handy way to
reference the information in the back
issues if you're looking for a particular
proje<:l or technique in the future. r hope
you find it helpful.
If )'our copy didn't arrive and you'd like
one, just drop us a note and \\'011be happy
to send one out. no charge.
~'F.;XT~L<II.ING. The January/February
issue of Wooda-milh (No. 37) will be mailed
during the week of February 11, 1984.

"11.

WOODS),.UTH

Ii_lps & Techniqu_e_s __

__

lONG PIPE CLAMPS

DUSTLESS ROUTING

I\'t! never found your method of inter- After building the router table shewn ill
locking twa pipe clamp. for cIampinI! long ~Vnod$mit/, No. 2Q. I realized whal a mess
pieces (Wood$fIlit/, No. ~, page 24) \''''Y the router could make. Oust and chips
satisfactory, It seems like )'OU need at least were going everywhere,
three hands and 101.<>01clamps. In addi'.:~n.
the pressure isn't always righ; over \he
HOSE ClAMP DETAIL
joint but is often at an angle acros. lhe,
boards.
)I~. ~.. i
It's much better to buy pipe that rs ,
CAaalAGf
&OllS
P
threaded on bolh ends. Then use pipe equp~
,. '"
....
ting$ 10 make any length clamp .implY by
'W1NONUlS
adding the .ouplill!! and an extra lenl!th of
pipe. Coupling$ are available al jusl about
an~' hardware store. Ikeep them threaded
on the ends of the pipes 10 protect the
threads.
::.
VACUUM HCXI':
Unfortunately, when ( bought the pipe
for my clamps Ididn't realize the imperTo solve the problem I added all attachtauce of having both ends threaded. nUL J menl to hook up my shop vacuum onto the
solved Ihe p.'Oblom with the maleriat. at table. The unit is made from a U-ahaped
piece of,- plywood suaehed to the top of a
-PJPE COUPUNG
rectangular piece of ~, Masonite. 'rho
vacuum hose comes up Ihrough a hole in
lhe bettom of the )l",<onilc.
The vacuum hose is held in place with a
MACHINE
clamping device made from a piece of solid
,.,S'IEW
stock, The inside half of the damp;' 1"""manently auached to tbe underside of the
Ms.<onite. The other half fits around the
hose and is movable. II's tightened down
with carriage bolts lind wingnuts.

...-

ofthe unit. I also beveled the bottom piece

of Masonite to help air flow.
Wiring the switch in seri es with a duplex
outlet permits turning on Ihe router and
the shop vacuum simultaneously.
Bob RlIscll

Basking Ridge. S~/I' Jr""'l1

Editar'x ,\'alt: \1', addfd tI,;. dllst tlillerior
au,t..,11 (0 IIIr rolll~rlabl~ ill 01/' sho". It
l('Ork." Iii.,; a ('ILanll.

tro:~"<;t=~

DENTll CUnlNG

IMPROVED

1 have an improvement on Steve Cramp--

ton's method for cutting dentil on the

radial arm saw 1l\'<)(xI8I11ill,No. 3J). My
method eliminates any eye judgment.
First I make a dado CUI in the fence and
then move the fence to the left of the dado
the exact width of a single <lentil. Here I
make aI/oilier dado in the fence.
Then to CUt the dentil. I make the first
dado CUI in my work. Then I move it down
10 the extra fene. dado and drop in a reo

SECOND
DADO

,\ cover can be made from another piece

of ~lasonite or. as she"," here, a piece of

hand. I slipped" 6' length of dowel in the

ends of the two pipes. drilled holes. and
used machine bolts and nuts to hold them
together. II isn't as strong as the threaded
coupling, but doe. the job in most eases.

dear Plexiglas. By using the Plexigl~. you

can check for any cloMing.
After the unit is assembled, an adjustment slot is routed completely through one
side of it. Then drill a hole in the router

Merrill Humitto
Sali.b,('7} . Vorll, C~",,/1110
filLING KNOTHOLES

Often an interesting looking knot in a piece

section has to be CUl
off and discarded. To salvage such a ....'C.
rlon, I rill the knot with acrylic casting
resin (available at most hobby shops).
To fill, leave any wood in the knot regardless of how loose it is and pUI tape on
the back side. With the taped side down,
pour the acrylic into the knot until it
mounds up on top, It will seep down into
the crevices and harden. if it continues to
seep, add some more until it mounds. Once
dry, the acrylic can be planed and sanded.

or wood is loose so that

....

to grab while the saw was running.

PlYWOOD

Donald Klfit

....

Po,tlu"d,Or.golt

~_MASOH""

SIND IN YOURIDEAS

table and push a carriage boll up through

the hole and the adjustment slot. Use a
"ingnut to hold the unit down.
I also added a square piece of
Plexiglas to the front end with a boll and wing.
Any small scratches will disappear under a nut, It pivots out to form a shield for use
coal of lacquer or polyurethane.
when "free-hand" routing.
Finally, I rounded the comers and sharp
David II~
~Vordell top edges with a Yo rounding-over bit to
Pontiac .Ilichi{l<l71 prevent cuts and improve the appearance
\I,IOOOSMlTH

movable indexing pin the same wknh as

the dado into the matched up dados, Thi$
automatically and accurately gauges the
next cut. Each successive CUI is made by
removing the indexing pin. moving the
workpiece over, and replacing the pin in
the matched up dados,
I made the indexing pin longer than lhe
widrh of the dentil material so it was safe.'

Y'

1----------------;
If you'd hke10snare a woodWOJidng upwllhother
re-ade,s or Woodsmitll. sond your Idea 10:
Woodsnllih. TIps & T"dlOIQues. 2200 Grand
Aye. Des Moines.Iowa50312.
We pay a minlmumo! S10for bPS.and S150r
lI10fe for special lechnlques (thai are accePled
lor publocation). Please giye a ~e
explanation of your Idea II " skelctt IS needed.
send II along: we'6 draw a new one.

Old Oak Icebox

IT'SNICE, NO COOLING
The memories of chipring off a pie.. of iee
for a refreshing summertime treat have
long since melted away. But these old iee
boxes still have the charm to encourage a
whole new generation of woodworkers (0
take up the challenge of building one.
HARDWARE.The

biggest stumbling block

with building an oak ice box is tryin): to !let
the brass hardware, But now beautiful
reproduction. of that hardware are available again, see Sources. page 24.
The solidbra", hinges and latches we
used on this project require a o" offset on
the doors. (Note: Some other suppliers call
for a ' !. offset. It'.best to have the hardware in hand before censtruetlon begin . )
Once I had lhe hardware, I started by
building the two side frames and the
middle divider frame.
SIDE fRAMES

All three frames are built exactly the same

way: sctid-wood frames with 1'0" plywood
panels.
STILES. Begin

by ripping enough stock

for all six stiles (A and B) 10 a width of 2'

and to 3 rough length, see fig. L Then cut
the four stiles (A) for the side frames ~7"
long, and the tWO stiles (B) for the middle
frame 421,' long, '"'" Fig. 'I. (The extra
length on the side frameo allow> ror
4;:".long legs to extend below the bottom
edge of the frame, refer to Fig. 17.)
RAlLS. The stiles are joined together
with three rails. The top and bottom rails
(C) on all three frames are 4"wide (see Fig.
2), and the middle rails (0) arc 2V. wide,
see Fig. 3. All of these r.ril~ arc cut to
length of 15V, (which includes
for the
two ~".long tongues on each end),
CI'T GRQOI'F.s. After the stiles and rails
are cut to $;'.0, :r"'-deep grooves are CUt
centered on the inside edge of each piece to

FlGUI.E 2

ft(;URf 1

'1'.

...

~"

..

"CUT STUB TENOH TO

Fit G.OO'VE

'

}
PlYWOOD

MNEl

' .... P\YWOOD

PANEl

accept the plywood panels.

GttOOVECENrtlEO
ON $TOQ:

TOSG"F-S. Then, cut ",,".Iong tongues on

each end of the rails to fit the grooves, see

Figs. 2 and 3. I CUI these tongues by
making multiple passes on the table saw.
(For more information on the technique for
cutting tongue and groove joints, sec
Woodsm,t!, No. 29.)
"LYWOOO "ANELS. After the joints are
CUt. dry-assemble the frames and take
measurements for the plywood panels. for
best appearance, try to cut the panels so
the grain pattern of the plywood continues
!'rom the bottom panel up to Ihe top panel.
ASS&MRLY. Now the frame>;can be dryassembled to make sure the panels fit
properly. Note: Be sure to position the
bottom rail on the side frames 4V,- from

SlOE'

STII.<

GItOOYf EQUALS

fHfCV.I6S0'

..r-"lEGS

PlYWOOD, -,' OEtf

@
42~-2lfGS RouaE 3

.v,'

.,.

~
~
I.~
---- _--

'$"/."

-~l
.,

SfO

STltf

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GI'OOVf :"'," DIEI'

ONWm EDGES
Of" NTH u

\VOOOSMITH

to PN",U" the
"legs." _ Fig. ,I Also. make .UN th.,..,
rails line up with the b<,It .. m rail. on th,
middle frame, If "v,'rylhmlt chl'Ck.. out.
spread glue in aU the
"'11<1
cu.mp
the fram~. Ill'I<Ipal"'!" tOIl' th~r,
1l0l.F.S .'UR ~II~I.\ ., AI\tr th. frames
an' asse mbled. hole...... dnlk..t to mount
adju.tAble <hel\e, i""ide tiK' ... b:",,1 To
align these hol~" I u,('(] a drillin!!: template, .Mark the position of tM hol~ on
boanl and drill t1",m.. Then align the iKard
with the LOpedge of tht'l'nlme and d';,II:',
the bouom of the .til,,

uv

flOUt' ..

CUT
FOI" TAW fOP
__ MSTlNllS ON ON:
SfD( Of- CfNltl flAM'

,,

jIl'OU"'"

1"-,

WOCIf 101 SIDE

wnM rwo SMAll
COOIMITM<HlS

IT

LAyour

1.'")

16,

".

2b'

.'e

fOR

SID'

~OHflAlGf

CQMMnWHT

I
o ~ :r
I
t

beles, """ Fi)!, ~.

:"t>tc:TiK' "pGl"ingfor the ho~ io ,h~
ent on each side of tiK' C8b~let.see F'g. I

t
1

Use a drillin!: template "''llh a cvnu,l'Ious

serie-. of hole. Ifor the la'l!C c<,mpa~nt)
on the rightl'l-.unc and tho nghtSl.I. "flhe
middle frame. 'Then u,e a rlrilhng h'mplate
\lith an interrupted pott.rn Ifor tht- IwO
,maD compartment on lht, 1,,11f,...mt' anti
the left side of the middk- framt'.
CR()()\E HlR TIll'. The !a.,t ,IeI' on Ihl'
frame. is to 001 a 11."." ide ~'TOUV.(Qr Iht
hardware used to mount the tu" o( lh"
cabinet. refer to Fil:". I and 21

:r

..."r

NOn,

AU. HOU5 r AMIT

' ..- OIAM(tfl
!'.
I' ...
-

",I I

SHELVES

After the hole r~ drlll~d In Ihe fram , (

started work on the .helve" 'J'h~,'(' 9r~
aclUllllS two kind, of .ht'lv('.: sllltioll8rS
shelves lhut serve a~ tile ooltoln (If cuth of
the three compartments, And al"" acUu.t
able shelve. thaI can be mounted in.hle

each compartment.
All the shelves are", oak ply\\""" \lith
a ",lid-wood frame. To mak~ Ih~ (rame
piece (or the ~tationar~' shelves, rip alllh.
pieees 2" wide and In rough I.n;''lh. "'" Fig,
5. Then eut the froll! back I"t'<"<'.IF) III"
length o( 19".
The length .. flh" "d, "it'('('. (G) j, ~w.t
LOproduce a shelf lhat', ,'~artl)'a.. "i<l,' ""
the cabinet's side fram(' To (10 lhi, m-asure the width of tbe side frame, .ubt .....1
the width o( Ih" .h.lr 6 (runl b:trk 1"''''''',
and Ihen add '1'," (or Ih~ I" 0 '1',"-lonl1
tongue:'.
.'or the atlju.tabl<, 8hrlf, ril' .11 Ihe
frame pieee- 1 y.. \\ ide anel to rouJ(h
length, 'L't' Fig, 6.Th,n cut th,' fronl1>ock
pieees (I) I~Y." (onlt, and cut Ihe ~!,J.
piece' IJ) tht same Irl1Jr\h as Ih" ",Ic
pieces on the ot.uunary ,he" co.
err GR(I()\t;:;.Aftt,r lhr' (ram,.,. are CUI
to size, rut groo\.t"~on th ....in!Oitlp {"(IWd uf
aJllhe pieces and Ihen cuI tonj(U.... on Ih..
ends of lh~bide piert'io.

CAlli' HOll

' .... w,Of: I((IF

~~~=================s.:l>E=ftAM(==S.::FO',.

rtlOutf S

I-

", ~lONG SlUI TINCH

Cut TOAt GItOOV(

_ 2_

'.. ASTlNt
.

t.uu for

I
I

IS1,,"

.....

IS'

,......

STAJlOIoLUY SHEll

cur

tOhGU( ON

I'II'WOOO

to ," GtOOVl

." ~OOV.

Dllr
UHT ...... ON
rHlC'KNlUOf sroo:

......]

au.

AGUIt

Q)-

'." olOHG srua TlNOtf

CUt TOAt GIOOVI

.....
,

---

'S'.

ON

_,
I

IS..

, .".

O.ooVI.... 0(1'
ClNlIllO

,.,,

ADJUST"'" SHElF

','

.,

II'.

1~."

CfT PL\" 000 I'SERTS, No" dr\,

assemble the (rame> and take mpa'u':"

menlll (or the plywood in .,rt., Th('n cut
tonguCl< on Ihe plywood LOfilth" !lJW"("
in the frame piecCl<.II did Lhi. on 8 router
lable. See W,JOd.lllitl, No, 2!1(or more (In
thi~ technique,)

ON INSIDE (OGE Of tOtH

NOTE:CUT GIOOVE

ON

t1th:rJ1:':H:IC:"':Of~ST:OC~~==:~~HSlOE~_~;l>G;,,;.;"l.s;=~r~a~_~.
:':'~S
'~.~:~:~:~:~.~:~.~.~:~l'~===~

A..'~S.~~IIII,\'.
F'innlly,plywood
Itill .. And
clam" _
(rame
pieces LOIhe
in'~rt..

\VOOOSMITli

w~.

AGUI"

.........'0

rAe! FRAME

,..a FIAMf
AU SlOCl

All SJOCI( tS .~ ... rHKIC

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brn

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1 lONG '. 'MJ(IC

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t
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,,.
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'1I0NT AND lACK fRAMeS

To complete lh,' bu.ic cabinet. the side

fram~' and th. shelves arc joined to a front
facinl( frame und I.. ek frame. refer to Fig.
17. I >tart,,1 with th. front facing fl1lm~.
~R"'TfR'''f, B~n by "1)I>ingall,-;,
pil'('(. (or thr- frtmt frame to final width and
rougb I,'nh"h. "'''' Fij(. i. The top and bett..m rail. (J\I an,' 3' wide and all other
J)It"tC ~ are :! ,\ iete.
('IT J()I'"'f':o. :-;()~ trim the !i-idestiles (L)
to. final "'ngth of I,' Ito match the ,til..,.
..n the llide f,.."""",). Then work can b<>gin
to join all the frame pieces with mortise
and tt'r 4InJ()ln\~,(A ~l(.'l'"'b)'''~l('Particle on
muru-e antt tenon jOlner~' appears In
1'(H~.II","tll No ...~.)
FiNt cut mortise at th.. top of the side
<tiles CLl. I,,,,.tinl( lh~m y.' down from the
top. ",. Fij{. ~, (Nllt.: All or the mOrli"c'
arc P'l"ition"" to allow v,' ,hould.", on the
tenons.) Th,' morti, Atthe bottom or the

"CiUItE 11

.....
p

..

--

'

...
I

cur

IT

TIJ'rK)N

MOtH 01 GROOVE
lOUAlSntlQ(NW !
Of 0Il'W000

Iii

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i.

,..oUI,

1,,..4 ..

_n

~1~11

12:

'0 IU'WOOO

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TO"fGlOOVE.

"

st\Il

I""

NOTE:aonoM IAIL IS .'I\~

'10M tNO Of" STIllS

lOUND OFf TNON

TO m MOflISf \

16'.

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snu

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snu

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CI..,'(I(O ON 'TOCK,
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GIOOV( ON 10TH
lOG( Of

~'N"'1Wt

-4.,,~

AU. GlOOVts
019
ClHTtlfO ON STOCI.

.tile, al'l' I'" up from the bottom edge to

alll)\\ II: for the "leg" and V." for the
shoulder ~)(thl' tenon.
Th(ln lhCI"\~':-I011(\ more mortise at the

middle of th. lenhand stile. To find its

IJOsition. Us,, tht' .ide frame as a guide,
P""ition th,' morti se '0 the middle rail (01
of the faeo (ram(' aJlJ!1l' with the middle rail
CD) of the ,iel,' (ram,.,
("tT T",,\C.'''' C" tl'II$. After the moru-c...an- ("U1 trim lht' top and bottom rails
(J\}t ... finall,'n."h "f;!6 -. ,l"h.b allows
fori 34 houklerto-,houldcr length and
2'"' (UI'"tht' t.ncln...~ 00 each end.)
Cut 1long t,,,on.- on th e ends of these
rail ...to fit tht moru-es in the stites. Then
to complete these rails, cut mortises eentered on th~ length of the rails for the
middl~ ,tile (~Il,
\lIIlUl.F. STIl,~ Ury .... emble [he
!<lile'and rail. to gN the fmalleDgth of the
middl. "til. (M). CUt the middle stile to
lenj:lh and rut tenon. on each end, Then

cut a moruse tCnt~rt'" on it> length for the

middle rail (0).
)111)1)1.&
ItAIL. Repeat the same proeedure: A,ld th~ middle stile to the dry
assembly, m."UI" for the length of the
middle rail (0). cut the rail to final length.
and CUttenons on the ends.
,Ssl:'IHU. Finally. when all the pieces
are cut to ~iz<.tl~t the fit and then )!Iue
and ("'mi' th, front frame tOj!ether.
IACI( fJtAMl
11M_. construction of the back frame i_.... simi-

lartolheslde rram..~.,.,.. ~'ig.l0, Begin by

CUllinjl enou~ ,tock for tho: seven frame
pie , to final widtb 0' WIde for the
LOp bottom pn-ee, and :!~.wide for all
othersr and tn rough length (about I'
Innger than nl'"I"d,)
GROO\ t:S. :-low cut :y.',deep groove.
e<'nlrffll nn the thickn".s of each piece to
accept thl' plywood panels,
CtT 1\) Lt;SCTIl After the grooves are
\VOODSMITH

\111'1'1
.. "T11.f. :\0"
:"U t:~ attd

"

-I

,,'

nut e-,

wlfl

to gtl

the

,. ,.

Jenjtth of thO':middle '111,(Qt. (:\01, Ik

sure to po-iuon the bouem rail 4 \ ul'
from the bettom 10 d1l0" iur lh<. I,~,)
'IIDDLE R\11.>' Add th, m,,!<Ilp r I.. to
the dry-a..",mbly and measure and cut the
mlddl, rail-IS to linallength .... ,. ~IJ: 12
1'\.'1:1_, t lDaJ.~. assemble the fl"dlll( and
measure for the 1'1)",,,,.1 pan.,!" ( 11th.
~I~10
and Ihen Idue and damp Ih,
whole bark (ram .. \<>)(l'Ih...

........

;, t

_.

....

-....-

D&M.INSIOHS

,OIOTtOM
or GIOOYt

"

II

1ACl .......

GROOVES 'OR ASSEMBLY

.~~

4O.~

Ir

"

,it.

Afler the (runt and back franl~' art' .~.

sembled. 1,'"""('8 are routed ,," th'IIll'id,
(a('(l'''' ttl attach the fiielt.. (loam", .. and the
stationary shelves, I-i(>f.' ~I~.
The ptJ~ition (I( the"," f..~I()\'t"", (l(.'l>l'fllltt
on the thickness (If the otu,'k ",ed for Ih,
side frames anti shelves. ThOl IN, thl'
grooves on the ~i(l(' :-\til{'~ar(1 ~el in u disranee exactly equal to lhe thickn~.s of lb,'
stock (I~'". in our C","C), SQ(' Fil(. II
The same 1)()!o'iti('ll if' u<1,rdfor lh( horizontal l!f'Ooves olathe miflc1lt, yuill' - ""J tht
"UI'(O" of the shelf i. nu,h \\ uh Ih,' IlII'

0....

",._ ~

'I"

drv ~fntll. the

m,a.rure

)6.=:J

0"

earl> enil )

--

- GaOOVl CINTUfD

the procedure is "milar 10 that of the

front frame. Trim Ihe .id, .tlle. (I', 10
6nallenjtth of 11'.Then <utthe to!' bottom
rails (R)t() final lenjtth (Th~.hooldu ,10shoulder lenjtth on the " rail. must equal
thaI of the rai!'. on the frunl frum, Thon
add '1',. for the 'Yo -Iong lonll:u"s
CUt.

lACK ,1AMl

MOUlt ,.

HGUU IS

CORNU JOINT

1....

CENTERFltAM JOI~

SHllF JOINT

la.

edg<>o( the middh- rail . ~. Fi~. 16.

l'se the ..arne procedurv to I"CUk the'
groove on the t uom l'1IiI uf th," fnllll

frame_ However; thl!"1"I"'Uc..'('(lun' ('8J1nllt IH.used on the b~krram,I"''ClIu>,th~ 1..uom

rail is wider. To lX~s.illtllllhi", ~f'O(l\ Co. U!o>('
the I(TOO'" on lhl' (runl frame as a ...('r,
enee, )1"lL,ure cluwn frum Ih~ 101'
(If
the fronl (ram.. and m:lrk olT thi. lWll<'
distance on the ~ ..ck (ram(',
The la,..t ~t of ~1\'t'S uor tht mui,lltdivider Irame) 1:- cente .....,1 on tht I(,ta'
"idlh o( the (ram,. " .... f"i"," 1:;.

..

our.. Of

OIOOVI
SHOULD I.E SUGHTlY
OEm. THAN' _-

at'\'

" ..

SHllf

I ,

SlOE FRAME

GUlf 1
fIONl fACING ftAM

..-

,......

lACK flAME

.)

51"

...,.,..
.......

,<I~.

TO"Gt t:- Aner Ih~ 1:1"0<1\ es

$WIONAty

Cut TONGUe
10 FIT
GROOVE

'

...

,I

-r

I
CUY ........

II'OUHNO 0f0I
AU k)U1
(OIN(tS

"'"

ftAMl

4r

"'JUll~l.

eut tongu,' on the (runt an<! ba<'k .<lg,. of

<ioe (I'lInIe;. Ih~ mlodr .. franle. and Ih..
stational') ..hel\(."S. I dut lhi." on .1 ro"ter
table n("akin!: up un the d"l'lh "f CUIulllll
the 10nl:U'" fit lhl' j(I"OO\ ""'.

t""

I
I

ASS(MBLY

Afler Ihe Idngue 31,,1gt"U<l'ejoint. :tnl'Ul.

d~'3".,mbl\ Ihe fram_" ontl tnm the

lhrel' :-.t3lioJ13ry' :;.hel\'~s to final \\ Ictlh to
lit belween Ihe fl,.m~,. I'('(r I" Fit: 17.
FL"ALAs>\EMDL' \\h," the "hdv,. fit.
all the fram~. and "h~I\'~' ''lin Onall)"I,,

glued and damped

(l)gNh,r.

I 1'C)Ut4,(J:t
Mould.nod qUaJ'ter.rnund on th, c"rn' .....
of Ihe cabinet. "0" ,lolUi1 in Fig. 17. (A
detail.d explanation of (hi. CUI i.Jriv~n in
Shop NOI~>, p" 211.)
ROIT llCt:S.

A n.(lr IL""s.tlnbl),

SIOI flAM'

I'''.

Iliv~~"
Lin

IOnoM lAMS.' "

fROM. R.OOI
FRONl "AMe

______~~====================~-------

~.... SHOULD'"

WOOOSMITH

-_~

'IGU" ,.

!-,.'_

----,,.-----19""------1
(

'1.-

- LV<GI>f0< SlOt!"C_AllO
EQUALSOtf'fH Of' ~AllNEJ

-i,~
UNG!H INClUDES

./

toT" 1 .lQHG TtN04llS

-st4 STOCIC

@) ~

C ,.- nile.K,

6~ COItNEIl

r-

KICKBOARD FRAME

"lOC'

1,~

'_'_~-

liON' lie STOCk(''',.

OOQ)

--S-Ef-'-'G-.-20-'OII~'-1~
SClOU. DElAR _.
,

f1GUlf20

IE><ot< ON ENC>
Of IONTliKE-

,_..

"--

IY.*--r

,"

DETAil Of SCROU
CUT ON BASE

'.-

.-

At this point, the project is starting t<l look

like an ice box. The nest step is to add a
kickboard frame around the base of the
cabinet. Cut enough 44 stock for the sides
(U) and the front (V) to a width of6" and 10
rough length. Also cut a piece of 514stock
(IY,. thick) for the corner blocks (\V).
sun: "'E('!'S. Now the side pieces (U)can
be cut to final length to equal the depth of
the cabinet from front to back, see Fig. 22.
t'RO~'TrrEC'ES. To assemble the three
pieces on the front, first cut the corner
blocks to size so they overlap the ends of
the side pieces and extend to the in. ide
edge of the front leg (stile), see ~'ig, 22.
Then cut the center piece (V) to fit 00tween the two corner blocks, adding 2" for
the I'-long tenons on each end.
CUI mortises in the comer blocks and
mating tenons on the center piece. S~ Fig.
19. After the joints are cut. mark out the
scroll cuts at the end" of the center piece
(see Fig. 20) and cut out the pattern on "

bandsaw.

Now rout the top edge. of all pieces with

round-over bit. I03\;ng a o/..i shouldel', see Fig. 2.1. Then screw the side piec es
to the cabinet. and join the eemer piece to
the end blocks and glue and screw this
assembly to the cabinet,
8

vt

THE TOP

FtGURE23

To make the top for til. cabinet, glue up 4/4

boards to make a panel wilh 8 rough size of
23' by 45". (See IVoo(hm,ilil No. S2 for a
complete article on gluing up panels.)
Cl'TroSIZE. \\'hen the glue is dry, plane
the top smooth and trim it to final size so
it's 4" longer (from side to side) and 2"
wider (from front to back) than the assembled cabinet, see Fig. 23,

TQ!'_VlEW CRQSS SECTION

39',o1a"

tto,'SI) to:r)r...~.Ne.'(t, round ever the

front and side edges of the top (IC'.. vinl( the

tABlE TO fASTfNEItS -.....~

11......

_-

2'"-

lOCAflOH Of

fIOCK'fT SCREWS

....I

.:J'~.

tOf' HANGS OVU CASE 2" ON fRONt ANO tofH ENDS

fIGURE 74

>-..

DETAILOF TABLElOP FASTENER

.r

25

.Of

back edge square), 1 chose a bullnose profile here. routing the top edge with a \1,'
round -over bit, and the bottom edge "ith a
"". round -over bit, see ~ig. 24.
..,\ITA(.II Tilt: '1'011. Since the top is solid
wood, it must be attached to allow for
expansion/ccntraction.
Mount the front
ed~ of the top by counterboring the front
frame for pocket screws. see Fig. 25, Then
the res, of the LOpis held in place with
metal fasteners thal can slide in the
grooves as the top expands and contracts,
see Fig. 24.
MOLDING PIECEFOR TOP

Next, I made a molding piece LO mount at

the top of the cabinet. To make the mold,
ing, start with two pieces of 4/4 stock 21'
"ide by 4S"long, see Fi!t'. 26, Step 1_Then
cu. a Y,"-deep by I"-"ide cove centered on
the width of the stock, see Step 2, (A
step-by-step explanation of cutting a 00\'.
is given on p. 11.)
WOOOSMITH

Ancr Ih c \ e cuI tnm tJM, tock 10 a

final" dlb f 2 making sun II... <'0'< 1$
centered on th< .. 1dth see ::-t,p 2.
~"".

use a "",nt-<utt

nl!' <>i:1' bit

nth<

router tab to,. ut a Minded gTOO\".:: n

both shoold, ~ of the J\ C """ :'tep 3
-\' CI. round "IT (Ill\, edl=' v.: lb the S3!D(' b t,
-ee Step I \"d fi,.,lll.cut, (jth, edl!'l',at
1:, , !k"(" Stt'r ,j and G

2""

1IOUTt'
MSS

(t T '11.1.1"\(. ll) l.t:'(.111 To mount the

't

mol~lin~ it mu t 1)(' ('tIL at

compound
mi'~..r. (Set Shtl)) N')l,' I). :?t. (fJr mfJn on

IlOUNO--OVll ENOS

mitt'I""'" ) ('Ul till' f"OJlt JU('t"t'

firMt ",ltaklrlg Ull on the rut ~

tl' It'"H1h
tho m Ifi,- (,.,tll' r of the rn td 1'1 8lri"
rna .. ,th the out de eon r f th, ""b.
nt-( '" f g .!7 1'11< n cut the ide ,tnps to
lenb'lh In tenng II,~ Cro.t ,,00 and cultu.g

the b3ck end

OW"\!
\C~'II)I'(. To

)14'1 ,.., Tnt

mount

I~ mold ng

to the

'!VUlf 21

CUt Slot MOlDINGS ,0 Fn

'lOSS .$fCTlON
Of TOt'MO<DlNG

me

.._S

...

TH"
TO

To eom] t. th
b net I needs Ibr ee
,1001'&.A. n by ella ng stock for the doo",
tu " .. dth of :1 and tu rou;:ll k>nl!'th.
Then cut th,' 0111, (AA ,.no Bn I(J length
,0 til,,> ',.. ,"lonl(,'IIo.,n rhe hpi!(ht ofth,

(;lUll~NG
fO
'1Ofof1 IOGI MIST

....U' UDS

10 Hfll CI.A.W

"OlD"," TO
CA' Nit

.. 1"6

cc
.."

..

tl()Or 01H.'niuK.

IACI( .. "'"

DO NOTGlUI
MO\DoNG TO ..,.
Of'tU' JO CMJ:lrr4T
(KU'

THI DOORS

NOT(

the

Idlnj: gl ,and ~k the bottom edge 0(

CUI Qff AI
'0' Of- !'OINt'

CUT Off WHill

c,.uttlns;:fh, -,('

Nt'Xl, cut t h"I,;,il", tfJ 'c.ngth lall()\\wg for

thl" )" If1nJ,ttr-nnnsj so tfu- width (If lht-'

";'

a.'''l'mhlt~1 dtttir oVl'rlal)~ the ope-nin$! ",.,

Then the .liI"6 .,nu l1Iil. <lin hejo,ned \\ith
mnrtlM' .1141tcllll" jllinL". see Fig. 2t'.
~U" 86<n( orntol(tillJ{('Ut ....Is made on

IlAll

fOHGU

,~ lONG.

'.

2'

....,

WlOi

MOU>tO '00( SfO'S

AA

snl!

lhl efiges of 1he door", ~lr:;.l.rout a

4 NOM OUtS Df_

(DGt Of FINAl-

-deep rabbet on the I1l>JlI.,todg" oi the

franl< Cor th, 1)1~"'ood,...,...1, """ .ig

~Iel' 1

:!!t,

o ,lid thIS>lllh a hand-~Id router.)

Then rout anoth. r rabl)(t to ,'(.nn a lipf;ll

the I)IIt iii,' rdl!P f tn door. This ra!>bet i>lkl,. but I~ depth depends on the

hanl>l BI'l' you h.\ e. lho

hinjle;

I used

".

n'JuIY,' u " 10", 110I rout ..rI the rabbet

(I("tp,ulJu.ch Iu It'a, e a
-tbick li~Jon the
m)nt SUll' II( the (tf)f'r, loC'" Ste'l) 2.

in rumpl(t( lh(' (Ioc,r (rame. cut a

,llIuhlt"'IIIPI",d Inr,ldill~ on the In_ide t-dgr
of Ih~ fr:,ml', ,N' SII'" :I. 1'hi~ molded edg,
"101" I' fnllll Ih" olll.. dr ""mcl'!> of th.

duor. (:;.,., Sh""

1'1111". ~. ~II

fur mul"(' 011

till'" It(.h,lillUt,)AI...Q. roulld over the 1rol,t

ouLqj,lt....loctJll_l llf tht' door (ram(l \\;th a ~
rourui-(.l\t:r bjt .t'ee ~t{'p I

p"n." An"r nlllhc mulilin>,(rul' .re

made, the ""'" enn be CUI to -jz". 1 u<ed
....oak f' )..-o()(i on the '\tll ~malJ doonBut on the ~
door)oo ha"e an optIOn.

he,,"

oak "ly", 1 ''''

III the photo on
Jl31!' I, ',r nofngen.tor ~'" (""
in
th~ l'htJlo Clfl the CI)V\T).
~-ruI"S 'Int
rttt'I i...
tft rut :-;top.
...to
hot.! the 1)llI,~ISnr gl.,., in plaCl', To make
th<: :o;lc'J).... rl,unll oV"r t \\ 0 edge:.> a pit.'Ce
of1 ,I ,tock \\ jlh a Yo" .'Ound ..,wer bit. Then
ril' thick "trop, anrl cut.houlden< 10 fil
tht.~rabbit, ft'" "i~.
30.

l'

RGUlr

SE9l!ft!CE_OF CUTS FO 0001

UU(t .01 MN(L

:h
I

UI

,.._ ..
-

SfOIf'lO MOlO(D DG.E

~. toUND-OVtl

:J1

'

'.

ItOU"'D-OV(1

.<:,

.....

_~~11w(}'t
31

or

"'O(')O~MIIII

AAIMET fOI 000l

FlAMES

.. ,",".- ",

.oown

wt

I T

,,",U COIN'"
0' MHIt.
MOlDlHO ',II:'PS

to ,,_j
CUT .... an lOIn
OvtA 0001 fUME

THE HARDWARE
The last step is to mount the brass reproduction hardware. The hardware we
bought (from Constantlne's ''lllalog) TSdesigned (or doors wnh 11 tip that's Yo-thick.

see Figs. 32 and 33.

Mount the hinges SOthey're centered on
the width o(lhe rails, see Fig. 31. The only
tricky part is to position the knuckle ofthc
hinge about y,,- (rom the edge of the door to
allow clearance when the door is opened.
see Fig. 32. The same is true o(the latches.
allow clearance between the CSltcband the
door, see Fig. 33.
nXISDISG. Before "ppl}inll the finish,
remove the hardware aoo mark the position of each piece. (Each piece is slightly
different so it must be returned to the
same place.) Then I applied two coats of
Minwax Early American stain and fol-

OOO.RAMl

\,- SlACE 8ftWEEN

DOOI: FlAME AND
CABUt" NAM( ....

f
I

Ii

,..POIHI' or HINGE
C~NI'f"l) ON"""

lowed with two eoets of Hope's Thng Oil

varnish. rubbing out each coat.
MATtRIMS LIST

CUTTING DIAGRAM

OYfl'QU dimal')Jions.:

0/,. h;lt 43~/'''w"211~"d

471

Sfd. ond MidcfJ.Fl'o~,

A Sid. S,lI.. (4)
8

Middle Stlfe. (2)

C
D

Topl80ttO-tn Roil. (6)

Mlddl. R.lI. (3)

E ,tywood Pon.l. (6)

Stottonory Sh.lv.,
F F...,lIloUt (6)
G

Sfd.. (6)

H Plywood In..... (3)

Adjustobl. Shelve.
I
F",."lo.k(6)
J Sid (6)
K Plywood I.' .... (3)
Front from.
t
Sid. 5,11 (2)

sm. (I)

Mlddl.

Topl80ttornRai" (2)

MJddJe StU. (I)

R TopiIoHom Roil$ (2)

S Middl. Roil. (2)
T Plywood 'oM1. (4)
Ba.. MoldlOjj
U
V
W

Sid., (2)
kon' (I)

Com., BlotIcs (2)

Side Molding (2)
Front Molding (l)

I(

'21, .x 21~. 15'/.

'/.. x lS'I.. 160/'
..

ty,.x 2 19
1\1,. x 2 . 151/..
V.. :a 15'1... 15'h

L... __
AU BOARDS ,\-,.-

'v.. x 2'1, 38 h
t

'3ft. x 3 . 36\i

'v..It 2'h - 47
'''/,. x 2'h 35'4
'0/,. x" 351/.
tY!. x zw- 16'1'.
y 16V. 16"1.

'''1',. x 6

It,y.
'~.J(6. 36~
l'A 3'46

Top Molding
X
Y

IV.. " 4 .. 1$1/.

Mlddl. Roil (1)

80ck Fro",.
Sid. SIU.. (2)
Q

'~.lIC241

x 7'.:...:..~.:..-,;:--r---;;--.,_-;;:--r_-;:_,.,

O,..!&".~.. :!n..2i272.:~uf.~~:.~
E. 3:2=: I ,,=~j_.: l
Ea =li 53!-f ~ inJ
I.." ;;, q!;g ....... ,L .:ct. " . "L:;;;;mfi/u,lw7J
1- -I 't t z:.t;i~;e;S;;:~;
J
[: ...,;;1,.",,3 .. : I ~ 1--1 I
I

'I

~u I~:l:u
:1, :::=v;=::E~.
~

'IN 2"' 19'It

1)/,. x 2 39~

C.bI.,.. Top

Pi.,.,

Top
(9)
lotg_ ond Smell Doors
AA long Stil .. (2)
aa ShOl1StU (4)
CC lb (6)
DO 1<>'110 , 1 (I)
EE S... II 'onel (2)
I

10

tVt. x 3 43

,\ft.. x 2~ 37
ta;.. x 21J, _ 17'/'
tJ{, 2'h 1311t

'I 12 32'n
'1 12 13

tl22

Ztl It

E:::Z

l ( ..

Is? It tIl

fl.

72

IUZI

II

Itlt

IIIZI?

2 ..

ttt:1
\VOODSMITH

 __

~C~u~t~tj~ng
a Cove
STEP-BY-STEP

~,,('Jn~
In\I)(~lbtl). but 't', s,,;tuallj qUltte.i~) tIl ("J\ .. (.'1'\ C un a table "'3'-'. All )'00

It

M\'(' to (10I~rt\,~thl1 wcrkpieee at an anglt.

through th., b~ld.',
1\, :;:t'Lup tht'lut. b tlimpll'jig l:- used, M-....
rig. ~, This jil( is actuallya 1'3I'II1I('i<ll:J"llm
that ,,,..t. th(' [1111(1" of th., cut """"nl' J( to
t hl' \\'lfllh :tnct depth )'OU \\ knt 'tlr tfu- eov e
A(ljulSt 1h(!jig N, the cllStanc."t' bt. t\\'t"I n
lh,:..nnA ("(lU.alsthe \\i,ltt, .If the ('n\'e. "'t>(_
~i",.8, Then I1US(' t he bl:tde to thl' ,l,'~.w of
the eo, ......... flg. I,
&'(".. use the "orlcp.- b ft'<l al an IDl'I"
through LIl< bbd... u.. enure
of tIM.>
".\~""""I b~le .. used to rnak,' the cut.
",ier to fIg. 9. Mark the ..idth of th'- are

by pl'l<',nr m... kmg '-"'''' on the saw, and

mark "h~,,' the blat" enters and exits the
surfsee of lh" table, toe(' ~ig. 5.

Th"n murk Ih('" "lth "fth. -hnulder so the

cove jj; l"(ntP~l . nd later trim the stock to

Plac- thv Jij( on th,~ marlul,.ee Fig. 6,

Hold It firmly in 1'1I,,'cand mark the posiuon ofth. bArk arm.see t'ig, i,This is the
angle 'of attack to produce the cove.
Thl' lin ,,1...., rnuko the e'U'l'me edge uf
theeove, But in unl,r to cut the
you
net"fJ t(, ha\,(' some extra \\ idth to create 3
.hould.r (or the .tock to nde on. llark off
tIM.> rilth of lh, 6houlder to the outside of
lht- angItd 1.. 1('. see Fig. s.

Aft,'r mnr kinKth~ \\,clth of the shoulder,

CO'~.

tinal width,

."11"

a "traiJ(ht
to dr"" this shoulder
lin. parallel to the nrs l line, see Fig. II.
Th,'n clump 10 plywood fence on the shQul\1St!

der line, ,.,.\" ~'ig11.

~o~,to (,Ullht' rove, T&1S{! the blade to a
depth of only V,. )lak, a pll"-' over the
blade. ~'IlidinKthe "orkl.i .... alr.lin.-lthe
(.'.nee, (c\ \ el")' &10\\ rate (,f f.....t "ill produce a
other eur.)

.m..

"hop :-;01(' \\'ben I'm CUllin;! a eeve

th:ol'b eentered on Ih, -toek, I usually rut

Rai,....
' II><bla"" In \ erv ,rnalll""""men15
(V!~.
(Ir leu at a 11In-:): u011make passes

tIM.> stock a hILl. wider than needed at first,

until Ihi' c<"e ~ eut to IiMI width

...... 1..,'

OIPTH OJ CO'll

}.~

sn JIG fa
VitDI"
Of CCVI

-...

WIOI"01

SttOUtDI.

- WIOI" Of COVE

Rtf/'" h!/ drt, rlltfn" 9 tl,(' If'fdth and

a'J'I~ ~J1/" 'DI'(' ('.r fl. """k K'lM

1
('fU)ugh

ttl

-::>
MDHeAp
toll AND

all",r n ~IuJNld~-r(in Me)t

~ Ji.

WASHta

COUNTtllOli

tte'

TIl-( Jtg N~.,I to

(I' tlu: (",t~ for tllf
tur< l'olUl''''o{fiu, Ir!"j<,in,dallh<
corn,.,.. u-vln I.;o/t, fI,uI tn' g ""Ig.

3Hcglllhe.blllldJ".(,,'glh~
t
th~ I", 9
"''0"'
tal ('~

l'tl""

10 tJr, )rllal

IC.ltlth I.(OU

J'g"O th~ " ...

trn,JJf i~rqual
Jflr fllf rot t,

SflihADl
HOOKI

{O DlnH
MCOYI

"$,'

~r

SII lilt ',Ifl,f, III tilt Jrptll

("I !IOU
1('1,,,t ,for llli ("r'f't, f'"r a .,n(~tJ, ,""I,
d Iliad .. ".,tll a Itl9h .fu,I/bi,1' Qf Itrtl"

l'lnr~ ",(,,,k,,I!1t(']lf at 'Inti, f1lldgofthE

hlcltlr I' ,,(1"ll) r4' ,,'hi rr tllf' blade elll",."
""d rnt, th. ~tlrj'n('f'IJ( tl, t(lbl( 8Qtt',

6 ""til

,Itt

,:Jttlf4

tl"

'/If salt! o~tdadj,t,~f it

j"Jfifl, ((igr' oj111('anil$ an'
Jig uu

t'J'artly D/'II'" d ",.tI,lh, ''''Irk. 011tit, tape.

MA.'

V(IY

LIGHT ""SSIS

PiTWOOD ANCf

Hllld II,.. lig.fi''''/II

tli(

(0"

tI" I"hl< alld

IkJSiliOJt or llie back arlIt,

rbi, i8 tlltl (lllyl, te' I,rodllrr tit(' CVI,.'e,
I)turk

\\'OOOSMITIt

Mark ,,(I IIle lI',d,II 110

lI" for I/'r
8
8/wlI/d,,. (I} 1/" ror'f, nlla dmw IIIis 9 Ilt"'/i"t,, RU;~ftl'f bladl' Quly 'I,,." and
sholl/lltr /"" "'Irullo/fo 1111'first.
['fa IIrr "(lIrk ,"'I.V~follolyOI'.r til, blade.
11 II..

('/aIllP

1I11YII'(J(,JII'OU" 011Olt sholl/'

11

ReglJlator
Clock
-------------------

KEEPING TIME THE OLD-FASHIONED WAY

\\-untlt.rtl(1"h' some
clocks hj,\,(' tht \\'vnl"I{~RU18tOr"I)"
Ih,' doo" A. I bt-ganwork on this
clock, l'UriCl:l.lt) J.tCl\ th, tw!'>t or mp -o
I u.k,,t \\,.,,<1(11
Shllrp 31the Mason
1\I1t1Sullivan ",htt'k colnIJan)' to see if
hi' had Ih, 8" wvr H" did.
[)\'nn):, thr- \'ilI'l)' I~)':-. tach town
had a clock ofhillh accuraey that was
used to "t'l pocket .....tches _I Lh~

l"f'1Jtl'r tnblc chtmputg a ",telP block

141 th4' f~'n('~to ("'tIt A. ~." wide Iialio.
~ "Iun~. , . till:. 2_\\ IIhlhl'.~l-\lp.

1',-.: al".\8

other d.",1<5 In I" ....

n, Th._

JI

""'gII-

Oct":lflll lmlM"'J1Ill\
I to h'l\ t' a clock

that k('fJl accurate time, Thus, 8

"regulator" clock became a prominent part elf ",'\'f'rl' rail station,

Th., name l{t'.rulat'.T caught on

run""1( chl<'k muken; beeause of the
illfcr~n<l' of '1".lily and accuracy. II
doc","_
Tht version i'h(l\\. r. ht-rt'" it" :o"~mitar

to the I) 1><" or dOlCk., thai appeared

raIl onauon.< - bulth"
i,a :l:~

0""

'~""IOn.\\". thou~ht Ih" .iu>

...... 1....'llOrtlOned a liltle hetter (or
mosl

hom<'S

The la...t

on
the LOpand bottom 1"('" i> to rout.
"C)I , I, .,. .

Ktro~ bmldllll! thi,

dock. II', IM'St 10 ord~r th~ mo\-4!"
""'nlllnd Ih, gla'S rur th,' door. (See
Sou ...." 1'. 2~ ) SIll ....,. u,....) a p......
1)3inlt"f) gla.'UI J.anl' fur lh~ ()(")()r.the
dimen.ion, .ho" n he.....for Ihe door
and the c~,;(' han' be~n .i,..,d tQ hold
01 I...... '"'"

...
ttll

.houlden,1 'lu ..rt<r-round on the WI'

and l.,tl ..", "'k< . f<'t' t ig_~. j!\ote:
1)0 n(lt mak~'lh, ..~ CUli>on th~back
of t h(1 1)ll't'(!:o.) I Ul4>d II '1,- quarter~

rouncl bit l'>l'llfJIl's\'e a Y:I!. ~hOlJlder

Ili~""orgh"'~X',.' , ITn". Irth~ gla..~i..

larg('r or .mit.lk,.. than t hi. changes can be

The:-;(' l\\'(J

madc wh"n the door

long.

j,

of each

t""

wasn't long bl1fur, thl' word Regulaltlr CtPItarl,t OIl th,' JtIa........
of m.:m~;

.caI,

lout (IU O,ll' end

r~ut ttl cut thl' (18(tl' 'In lh, other

end, thl ~l"p block ha~ to be
."'t"hl~1 to the .>lh,rsid. of th.. bit
so Ihe "orkll_m"
be f,,!from lell
til nght ~hop Sit
\I;h. n Ct"i'ding
In th dm,'! 0:1 there ",11be a tend, ney t r tho bit to J:I'llb lilt- "ork
I..... ~I:lk.thl!<cut on 3 te-t pieee
1i.... 1 to I:\!t the fee1o( II.
NIIHI' T,(III"""
An.r lilc two
....tOJ.p<'d 1131101 are cut. louta ral,m.t
.lolIl! the back edge between the
d,d", r r Ih, pl),,,ood back 01 th.
nt.~(> j~h()1~fJt(H('n- J ''''It''h(>(110
Iir .11111~htbu l,,'C3uW "ideT bus
:.4;"t'mto \\urk fllitllt' ~tt{"r lor cut1m!! r"hl~'I' Ilk, thin.)
rhil r:tlllHt rnu-t -tart nnd SlC))at
the fln(I'I(~.!in cUll'(l Rf.,.rain. U* stop
bl'I('k~ to sUtrt llll<1 &lc,p the cut. see
t'i~.:1 To ch'ck Ih' ....t-up, !)<biti,,"
a l.~t 11It't"eagrun,.t the -top block on
the- n~ht. ftn4'i pivot the Juece into thE"
bit 10 h. j(\Il 1M ~ul Tben cut
raM.,t ttnlll th., I'~t pi,,,,,, lut, th~
,top block on tIM. lell. ;ilId ","C)l thO'
pl'''''' .....,., (rom Ih, bil

lalor docks" al'lO lx=~

rmportant
later In the "onIU!,) "IKon the railI"03<b found II neee....<3J') 10 ha, e 3<c:unilt< doe"" In aIllilclr
l..uons,
Thtre \\ ere some it7 dlfftl"{>Dl1.1me
zon.... In the 1'lUled SUlI.,.. aM It

In

,latin can I"

pi,'r(' Il~'
(1(")I"f.:' the workpiece from
Mlthl I.. h-n

built.

lJil'c'('!i :iit cut (rom t4 !1>lock

(1t'1" thit.'k) lie. th")"rt .I'o/It,'" \\ide b)' 1('."
't'l' }<'I)C.

l.

STtJI'f''';I' 1.."I;(, ..:!'o!,

THt CAS.

J(llnM tu tht~

Aftrr all Ih. mNl.,Urements (or the CII>;<

" ..., dclemlinecl. I >tartfd "urk ,,;th th~
101'and bultom pit"'.
Al for 1M ""'...,.

d."..._,

fl:icif"S

Thcs('

cB) v.'ith

_I

pleCe$ are
tOfl)tUt?

and

clad.. JOlnlo. This m"an~ cUlting .topp.:-d

,n Ih.. 101'
botlom pi,,,,,, .
Tu cui tho ~t"J>p',1 dad_. I u..-d lilc

THI SlotS
After the lup and buttom ....e,omplete. lhe
.ide. (H) can I. cUt from ~!-thick stock.
3V,. \\j(l... b, I~I.4lilll~.
~(.t*'tiJ.!, 5, Cut. thl'
Iwo.ld,'S I~.IU thenCUI.t>topped ~v ..
00 Ihe 1I~ld~ fact.' (ur tht plywood mountin!!, board ...... f.r 10 rll: III.

uo

omll OFST09P(DGIOOV$

..

ttOPPiD

OIOCM

12

_'.--

lounNG
P1tOClOUlf

....

-)

,.OWllbO.

\VOODSMITH

lUll" "R(H)\ t;. "fhi, ,tol'l','eI J.,'TOO\'. i.

positioned 1<, from tho fl'lJnt (~~t.: (~(.('
Detail in Fill, 5, and 9 .- Ion!!. The \\ :dlh
of this groove must fit the thicknes .. of the
plywood panel, Bat since , oak 1'1y\\ood
is u.<uallyIe;;;.than I," thkk. l Ui-t'4l. ."
St1'llIJrhtbit to rout the jm>U\,(. - makinj!
tu'(, CU~ to fit the t.)tY\\orHI.
ROt,. n.\IJHET.

.<\It,,r th.. J.,rroo\.,s

are

routed on both ~ill(pieces, r.thb.!s Itn.

muted ou tile hack "Ig. 1'01' the plywuod
back. Again. lb. d"l,th "f Ihl' rabbet ~,
determined by th,> "ctulIl Ihl<kn.t ,,(the

plywood. _

Cross Seetion in Fi~. 5.

A<W'I5o
0ftA1l Of STOf'HD GROOVE

aorr roxct F. The 1a.,1sl, P lin the .;,h

Vit:~c~
i...
to CUt a \IJIIJ{lll.: on the \.n(lstIl lit
the stopped dlllloes in the lup and bottom
pieces, 1did thi$ 00 the router table, sneaking up on the depth oi cut until the tongue
Ot,nugly ;lIthp dAcl".""~ Fij!. 6, 11",n trim
the tonJrUeto length to fit thl'length "fIh ..
dado, ee Fig. i

WlomO'~1!
IQUAlS TKliCkNE5S

...OF PU'WOOO

'10'
.it

~s

CROSS SECTION

l8J'~between the sides and add the depth

PlYWOOD SACK

1tO....,
GROOVE IS
,. DElE"

nGUlf 7

.~.

filM IONOUE

TO III
stOPPl'O

1....s-1m:IT

CVlfOHGUf
... 10 fiT GROOVE

c"l-J
~~.

-.

":
(t

'j'

j
,

ow MOUNTING

fIGURE.

_.j

CUI the top trim piece (I) , " wide and

thick enough to be flush wilh Ihe front
edge ~( lh e si de pieces. 'Then eut the bot-

tom trim pieee (J) I" wide and eut a j!Yoove

on one edge to accept the plywood. see
Fig. 9.

Before mounting the

trim pieees to th.. plywl)()()board. holes are
drilled tor lb. clock movement. If you're
using a quartz movement, only One hole i.
needed for the center stern, see Fig. S,
l1':ole: This hole is centered between the
inside edges o( the two trim pieces. which
means it should be ;; down from the top of
the plywood, see Fig, t'.)
If a key-wind bras. movement is used.
two additional holes are needed for the ke)'
holes, see Fig. 8.
.\S88~18LY. Finally. the top. bottom.
sides and plywood mounting board can be
glued and clamped logethc.r 10 (onn the
basic ClISl'. \\'hen the i,'lISe is elamlXld up.
glue the trim
to the plywood
mounting board.
HO'-r.S FOR r>l~L,

flOURt 10

BOARD

~ .~..- +- 4'.'

more o( a finis hod look

GROOVE

....

G"'

S11~and

"'.-0

\\'OOOSMITH

pi."".

"DE
t,

IIOIJ'"
TAIl!

Of '~'IOTTOM

CRQSS SE!19N

total of9Y,". see Filr.lI. Cut the plywood to

'EHCf- ON

(WT-r0N<iU ON IN:SIO~

tAct

of the stepped groove s. Thi, should be

dry-assemble the case once again
In t 1 Ih e fit.
Tlt!)1 PI":('f:S, With the ease still assembled, cut the two trim pieces (J And ,J)
for the 101'and bottom edges of the plywood, see fig, !I. These pieces don't actuaUy support the p)~'\\ood, lhey just frame
lhevlywood to give the top part of the case

... c.<

CUT RABIEllO MATCH

THKl(tlt.$~ 0(

DIAL MOUNTING BOARD

Tncomplete the bask ease, a "I~~<ood"ieee

(KI i< m"untecl to hilid the din! and the
cloek movement. This pil"t."t k- 9-v. long
(I\. shorter than tht, stopped !!yoo"c in
the ca..e. sides. refer to t~ig.5),
To determine lbe width ufthl" piece. dry
assemble the sides of the 0.... to the 101)
and bottom pieces, Then measure the dis-

",woo

NOll::

,
.t HOLE toR ow.

~i
iCl""'UO ..-.wEtN,

,1

fI\M ptfctS

t" ~

'...

I;
IIOIU fOlI
kfYOWlNO

SIO

-MQVfM(NT

SlO.
GWf

"'. ,
,l'tYWoo.

MOUNTING

.OAaD~

l._~1h
.., ".~
1

PlYWOOD
MOUNTING
80....

la' TRIM

pt!Cl TO
P'lYWOOO

NOll::
cut fIlM PlICES
TO m aETWllN
CASE SIDS

NOTE:

ASSfJIUIllD

OWftO

IOno"
IOC! Of

CAS( SHOULD
.r_

PU'W001)_.J

IE EXACtlY
10" W10f

13

1_"

....

000",,_(

0001 f~AIOf

ClOSSSECTlON

ClOSS SECTION

After !.he 00.10 I"3Ot' .. rom!'ktt. the door

can he bmh. The ~IU'o[ th. door i_- cntical
:in two "lI."",' lht, ouulcle dimcn~on.." must
fit thec. arm the In!O.idl' dimensions
mu.,,1fit tbe pn 1"""t,'II llla." pane.
\\1uat ~'OU\\ahl ttl (n,-)up wuh ii. a d()tlT
frame thai h.t< all ,. ~,,'. or,ming that
rneasuress w,<I. 1' Ij high. (This "ill
perfectly [n,m.' th(' pre-I'ain\t'rl gI"""J
'J\) build Ih, door; ~n
by cutting' the
W es (Cl 0,,11 rails (Il) to. width of J" and
to rouKh I""jlth, .. ~. fij(. 1L !'ull'; II alter8\io"" haVl' to 1M'l1I.d, to produce a d""r

C(NTEI MUNTlN

Ihat fit, the ruse and till ha, an ~ x 17

o 1 ,"

4_".~_

\(M(J1MOf (lUI'll.

THANOPENING

MUNtIN 'lNfl_'O

STIlL

ON 'N"~: ""N'NO(

.~ ~

'9'

r'"

"

NOll
C"'I MUNTIN ro m
lOW'll'" SHOUlDOS
Of "'UlT$

,.

a:....

I.~
SHe""

THI DOOR

D cHIku'0GlS
'

ow

- .-

inside operung, It's bt:~t to eompen,..ate b,Y

alterinl( the 1< dlh loot the length) o[ th{[ranI<' pw~.
m;,.ktnl: them >Ii!!htl) 010.... err

I... than I

"OU'"''

",<1,,_

(1.,.,. .\n~r
the ,Ill, _ and I'aIl.
an" cut to I'fJut:h WA', use at point-euuing

bJt on tht router ~bte to cut two

\~I\I"
('tn1(n:oc1 (....m each eUK\. of

O)!t"t'

,.,.

..0..... ' .........

~
.0(('

i...h~:o-tl.t:l' and rails, see l-1J.t.12.

(-IT TOl_f"(;TII )oIowth. four pi...,- can
be CUi to fin.1I 1,lIg1h. Mil'" th<
t"
lenjltlt so then i. Mlohl! of VI. clearance
bel "('<'II I he \01' lind ht'ltolll pieces (A) of
the Cru!. The ruil.Il',' mitered to a 'ellglh
equal to th. nut.i<l~ width of lhe case.

.,ile.

fltGURf 12

foIOlDJI'jG (tITS
ON DOOR FRAME

f-1~_'

,.,..,~-.l

RAllllt:T. A(ler II", pieces are cut to

length, a .,.bblt ,. cut on Ih. back edge or
~ach pil'((' let huhl thl' trht........Thie gets a
till'. tricky. The rabtx\, arc -" deep. but
the "i<llh must Ix: adjw.te<i eo nn u.., as... mbled frame th. glass IIts between ,h~
rablx:ts ""10 ,utal of .. rl~.rancelOp to

HHCf ON

IOUTlltAW

bottom allli

- {"1m filllf"to ~~.

liT JOI'''' Aller Ihe r4bh"l. are cut.

the (rarn~ 1114.,,(,1"5 arv j. ined to,:cLht!T with

AGUlt I ..

,p10n0,_ ""'.' F,~ t I. (For mOT<information

,..
I

on makinjl lhl1- jomt. see V3J!l' 22.)

('F-'Tt;N \II 'TI'
Aner the frame is assembled, cUI a \. thick muntin (E) 10 fil
between tlt< "Iii"" ..... ' Fig. 1I. Cut lh<'
notch es In Ih~ "Iii." so Ih" muntin will be
centered in th, IIIK,rframe. Th.1I chamfer
off the fnllli ,,Igo, or the muntin and rUI

stub tt_)n()n~t~)at

lht,

notche. s.

,-nil";. Th. h.. t ,WI' on the door 1$ to cut

1a.

the j(~'" !oIto,,$,....'t' "'i)C.

(~"'(.Irmore on
,,"Itinll Ih .>t. olul"'. tI<'V ....'Re 20.)
MOUNT THI

t"'

KJ!!:!i!

P\l"WOOO lACk
10 "'lAM1TS
'10 c..u&

MOmSE DETAIl

/
MOUNt P'lVWOOO IAC1( WI'"
TUINlUCll:lES so CL()C.K
MOVfMHT IS ACCl$SIIU

AlJGIj HINOE

-:::~ :r,1l:':1I

~======================:::==~~=~==~~t~h~e~ra.

14

"

IUSS

.. e

HONG'

t.....

I'.,
-

toos.
roN

00011 AND SACK

llefo"" lI<t\Wly moun ling thp gIa_,-_ I out

tM hing\. mortL~furtbttlo()T.R~n b)<
<tltung mort~ In the door (ra,me and
1Itn:" th., hmg... IR ,>lace, Then hold th~
dOfIrapln ..t the case so lh...re$ equal

c1el11"aJlN on the lOPand bullom and mark

Ih~ l"""lion o[lh, hllll:'" on the ea.'" >ide"
No" the"" morti ... s can be cut and the
olher flap. or 'Ot' hlnl' moullted.
TUEllA(K N".t.theplywood~kcanbe
cut to flt b\'twC.II the roblx:\<;"n the back
oflh, Clll<t!, ~I'e fig. 11 Mount the back 10
....' with [our b""", IUMlbuckles.
\VOOOSMITH

TOP MOLDING
To complete the top of the case, J added a
custom-made crown molding. To make Ihis
moldinll, start with two pieces of I I steek
:lY," wide by 18"long. see Fig. 15. Then cut
a H'."wide cove, centered on the Slack.
(For more OiltUlting a cove, >t'<' 1I"lIeII,)
After the cove is cut. trim the strip 10
;lY... ide so the cove is exactly cen\ red on
the width of the piece, see Step 2. Then use
a point-cutting Ogl>i!bit tn C'UIft ",untl,,1
V'gJ'O(>"e ~. from one edge of the molding.
(see Step 3). and round over the outside
edge with the same bit, see Step ~.
Stxt, cut two \'-groo\.(t:;. ",t. dl~P and
centered IY,,- from both edltes of the
molding, see Step n. Finally, bevel rip the
top edge so the blade cuts right where the
rounded edge slops (see Step 6). and bevel
rip the bottom edge 50 the rut jUilt touches
the shoulder of the cove,
)tOU;>TIIOt.llING.Now the molding can
he cui to length. First, miter the front
molding piece to length so the bottom edge
stop. ~~.short of the shoulders on the top
piece (A), see Fig. 16. (Note; Both ends 0{
this piece are cut at 8 compound miter. see
Shop Notes. p. 20.) Then miter the front
end of the side pieces and cut the back end
to length.
To mount the molding, I(lue the mitered
ends of the floontand side pieces togethet,
holding them with hand pressure for about

y.

one minute. Then

$ITe\\'

this assembly to

the topofthe C3.'l(!. and also screw a piece of

plywood to the toll edge of the molding
to hold it steady.
THESCROLLEDBASE
The base of the clock consists of n serolled
back piece (G) with two brackets (H). Cut
these pieces to size from ~lhick stock.
Then layout the patterns (see t'ig, 17), ruld
CUtthem on a bandsaw,
MOCNTTHE
BASE.To mount these pieces,
first glue and screw the brackets to the
back piece. Then apply glue to the top edge
of the back piece only (not to the brackets)
and clamp the base assembly to the bottom
of the ease. see fig. 18.
Before the glue dries. drill a Yo" hole
through the brackets and into the bottom
piece (A). Then glue a
dowel in this hole
to holdthe front end oElhe brackets in place.
nNISHL~G.Th finish the rase, I applied 8
t'OOtof Heritage (Jamestown color) paste
stain, and followed with two coats of Heritage paste varnish. When the varnish is dry,
the pre-painted glass can be mounted ill
the door frame.
Then the clock movement can be mounted in the ease. !hi,; is JUSt a matter of
screwing the movement to the plywood
mounting board. Also, if the key-wind
brass movement is used. screw a mounting
plate to the side of the cabinet for the gong,
see Fig. 14.

V.

WOOOSMITH

CRQWNMOWI!)IG
O[JAIl

flGUlE Jl

. I'

'~I

I..j -r: ,..,

" ...

USE.
~tn-CumMG

VIO"

.........

:..

<:-....
\~

=-')yD

f' ...
'i' ..,.,.",

OCEE 81T

en

GSHOU.LD.
AUGN cut WITH
OF COVE

'"""Z
FlOHrMOlOiIIG,

_~

l"

~--SAOf

l<",

I~~~NG

r::SHOUtOU
llAV,
MOU>lN<>

'l

---

..
..
,i..
''''I &UIII..t' ,.... , ,>
-Lt- .... ...'11
-"...
.., "<:
...

-~
....
,..
I:
l

'..K ""R

..

F"

.. v.'

ANGLE

a!tAoen "-

I-

SIIOUU'ft

'i

I-

.L

2t\

It

7mf~
1:V.

!--"=j

3W.-

AGUlfl,

.J..

'.:)

ClAMP A.SSEMIlY
TO tOTTOMOf CASt..-~_

~
NOTE"'"1 GlUE
fa fOP tDGt

~~O

Of A.Ck PANELONLY

)_

~.
.~-t

_- -

-- -r:

~,",,,~'~,
p

#6 .. 1'

wooosclew. (

SCREWUACKfI'SJ
TOlACK PANtl "'1St

_!.
<,

.....

!f~

GLUE
".- OOWR
'N HOll

""0;,,'

A Top/lotto", (2)
a Sid (2)
(2)
C 000.

S.,..
R.o".

D 000.
(2)
E Cet'lt.r Mut'ltin (1)
F Crown Moldjng (2)

Ponel (I)

H '",<k (2)

I Diol Trim (1)

I

0.. 1 Tnm (1)

Plywood 01.1 _AI
Plywood Ba,k

M Top OUIt POMl

00 Nor AmY GLUE

TO fOP EDGE

I~

O'"MCIlET'

.....E-Ot.IUHOW
INlUaus
IlfOl.(

ASSEMllY

OOWR

MATERIALSLIST

J
K

.I

lAC! PANElSCR_9U
DETAIL
@)

8RAC1(ET@

i'

... ...-

Il

G _k

POIN1-CU111NG

I ~ 6 ':?1

--

\',," IIf.YWOOO TO'

~~' ~~DSClFWf

FiGUI 17

'1'''''00'10

AUGNCUr I)
Wfni ROUND OVO

.C~OS$SECTION

~,.

I!.

~V."

Of CRQWNMOLDINGI

satEWS -'

-1 .'".,. nJ'. ")

j i""'~

F
I~

1+.~

OGlE

ro ROUND OVR

".:1"'1-

j_

f.

ROUtE "

3"":'

'.. lot 4'''',

CUnlNG DIAGRAM
10lJ.

II). 3~. \-.,./,.

t~ ... 1 - 19
'I l-1O
V.. lot If", 8~
'~1.x3Ih-18
Ih1l3~.IO
'h ..2.V 30\1.
tA!x'lt.9
Y,.19
'I. x 91ft- 9~
'I. x 9't,. '9/,.
'h II 51h . l2IJ.

".'11.-

r
F

7''' 60

lViJZ;~
\Ii .. $''''. 60"

b..,8-gf.l,.ka7~
15

\\'h~n I rm;t bl'oughtthl. wall Iantern up rom the shop, J ~t:">kt:tl

everyone anthe offi,'t' how they likt>d
It. \l th( time, I didn'; have anythml!' inside tbe lantern and the en,uing rliseuss ion kind
took me by
surprise, ( had euvisioned il h:"'glllg
on the wall with a bra ee- candlestick
and sort eandleligh; "himng throu".JI
the ilIa..",
Rut then someone l'lliclit would be
great (or a figurine or 3. dried Oc."'cr

~O\\- set VI) the router table ~I lh,

bil i.centered on the thirkne",uflhc
stock and raised 11," high, Also.
clamp a stop block on the rence to
J'uul a lI-c'-long cut, ~c Fig. 2, When
the router table i~~cl up. Nut thl'
mortises un one er",J of each stile.
'Chen switch the step block to the
opposit e sirle of the router bit so th"
mortises can be reuted on the other
end
Tf.:\()\S_ \\'11"'11 the upen-endud
mortises are c't)mtJletecl 011 all of thl"
stiles, the m:ttcbin1 tcl\4,IIl-.'; can lloll
cut on the mil . The tenons ,hould be
cut to pruduce n shou lder-ro-

.,f

arrangement. The whole idea of a

miniature display CAht' ad('leeJ another inl~..e:">tjngd;mt,ns,lul1 to this
ddicate Utile pi_. So, this is a \\ all
lantern, or a rl"play c",e , .. lake

,haul!)"r 1I'I.gth of I.,.,' on

(0).

DOOR AND SIDE FRAMES

Each or the frames ('I')n!'u-t~ of t\\'('1

,lil"" and Iwe tail>. To make th~
frames, first rip enough '1'.1 stock
('r,," thickl for all sLX stiles and six
rail. to width of I" and II) I'Qujth
length, see ~'ig, I. Then cut all oCthe
>1liJe$(A and B) 10 final len!,'!h of

1:1',". Next. the two rll1(. (e) tor the

door are cut to a (pnglh IIf fI", nnllth~ four
rail. (0) (or the side mll11c' are cut I long.
(Note: The>') lengths include an extra I ....'
for the "..'..lOJ1Ktenon on each (,Iut.'
)IORTlSS. Arter all of these pi(ll't'> are
cut to size. a ',"-wille open-ended mortise
is cut a(the top ann bottom of .ach $tilt"
-wi' Pig. 2~ 1 cut thc~~ mOl"th;,e~
on the

erly and the (rame is square, _go

ahead and glue il U)I. Sillc..,one .11<1 of

rt,uter table. ,~" Detail in Fig, 2.

the rnortb..e i:, open. it'~

a good idea
to place a ('damll across the ract, of the

However, before routing, 13)' out the'

rtam~f'.and mark the "face' side on each
piece. Then do all lb~ routin!! wilh the
"faO(!"side against the fello(!, 'fhb p.wedure ";11ensure Ihat "II the mortises 31'('in
exactly lht! same po~ition on all of the
.tiles.

stiles at the joint I" "pinch" them tillht.

When all three frames arc dry, trim
them ltl equal kongth' on th~ tabl" ,.aw,
IN Ole: After filial as..",mbl,'.the door fl'ame
"ill be trimmed"" it \\;11 open ~asily.1
ROI'TI'IG. Th. decurnu\'c edges cann""
he routed on Ih~ lhree ""'embled f,'ame,..

--1 1

I'", 1"ON

!'J

.g:;;or

' .. MamiE. 4. DEEI' ... "

CfN1IID ON STltE (.

IWl-

CUT IE-NON TO

ALlSlOCK

otEr

rot

,.

mMOms.

NOTE,

AU MOtTlSU oUr

JOINT DETAil

TOIII MORtiSE-

,~

1
I; '.

on the '!'iid(lorails

Fig, I.

check thv fit. If the Joints fit provo

._,qr-r--"'rc~
..~-'" "
"1 Wi1)f a..:.,. lONG

21:!

1m' d'.1<

,\SS~~IHL\,
Once .11 .. r the jnmb
an cut. dry dam), each Irame tIJ

i ..
I, ~-

....,

><)C

Cut the t envns by making multipk

l)/i""e, on the IJibl,' saw, (~. ll'wd
~)Jlith No. 26 for more 111forn1atioJi
on euuing I.(>)\on.<.)Finallj; trim the
tenons to width and round over th('
inside edge With a file to match themortise. $(*E' I'i$t'. 2.

gla.~fram~ - t \\'0 ~iclerl-ame~.and

the I(la', door ( -tarted by building
Ih.,. framps.

f~Ut:E. 1

:r) and

rails

jour pick.
The case is built around three

sm.

FItAMfS

'_' ACfUAL THIO{NfSS

SIDE FIV.ME
(2 NEEDED)

DOOR fRAME

aOVNO
OVER
WITH

STill

fill

_...

..

16

-.~,.-

!.- r'
.,

l.j.

-.,r

t
I;

oj

jJ

...'.-.

__2~
__

~r'

.. c.cv.MI'

..

ROUTER TABLE
SET-UP

'

11:11=>

/1

r-

SlUf~

WOOO$MITH

Rout all the way around the inside edge

with a y, rounding-over bit, l1lismg the bit
in in=menl~ until there ig a ..t" ..boulder
on rbe face ~ide, see Fig. ~, Stell 1.
Using the same bit, rout a stopped
molding cut on the outside of the door
frame only. see Sh'l' t (For more information on this technique. set' Shop t\ otes,
page 20). The end of this eut has to be
rounded 01Twith It file and sandpaper,
Finally, a rablHot b !'<lutedon the in~ide
baek edge of each frame for the pss , see
Step 3. (I used a
rabbetmg bit to make
these rabbets, but see Shop Noles for an
alternate method.)
RAJJUS'rn t'OKTlIE 8A(,K. Tot'Omplete the
two side frames, rabbets are also cut on the
inside back edge of each Irame ,:0 they ean
be mounted to I he back piece (G). Cut the
x y,' rabbets on the back edge of each
side frame by making two "'assses on the

I""UIl 3

ROUT AtoUND

lNSIOI

NOTE:

EOGlOF lACK '.AMI

fAC! OOWN

y.

'1'."

table saw, see Fig. 4.

blORTISINC .'OR TnE HISCES. One last
step needs to be done on the frames. Mor
rises for the hinges are cut in the right side
frame and on the back of the door frame.
Position these hinge mortises so one end
line. up with the molding cut WI the front of
the door. see Fig. 6.
GLASS A~I) STOI'S. Nftw cut IStthick
glass to size $0 it's
less than the height
and width between the rabbets on the baek
of each frame. The glass is held in place
with custom-made quarter-round stops
(J). (See Shop Kotes. page 20 for the cutliDg proeedure.) Cut the quarter-roundto
rough length and then miter the ends to
custom fit each frame. (Mark each piece so
it can be put back into its place later.}
Finally. to prevent splitting, chuck a
brad in a drill and predrill holes through
each stop and slightly into the frame, _
the detail in fig. 7.

y,.

,"

RABBETING I'T
RGUI ..

tGUR S

RRSt. CUI WITH

~fW
AGAINST tAatf

lEFT SIDE
FRAME)

fENCI
MfASUI(M:fHl
lQ OUTSIDE

SECONO, CUT
wnW fRAME

ON lOG!

-NOTE:

<,,J-J~:'I,
y,'

'0 EOUAl UNGTHS

;rHC.

'.M
I

.. 86ft FOR
eAClt (SfE FlO. 4}

'llM AU flAMiS

OF eiAot

r"'- :.~ ..."''''

IH$ID
SACKfOG. Of
SlOE fRAMES
ON'Y

"

IfiG..

',1

.~)

-<

(/

MATERIALS LIST
Ov.roll O;monsions: ... w
A Door Stilet (2)
a Sid. StitH (4)
C 0001'Roils (2)

0 Sid. Roit. (4)

E Bollom (I)
r Top (1)
G aoel< (1)
H PtotfOnTI (1)
I 8to.k .. (1)
J Stops (12)

CUmNG

)It

6" d

'0/.. a 1.
'y,.)It

\
lC

2ti" h

RIGHT SIDE FRAME

13Yt

~$E

1 131A

'V lit 1 6
'Vt.xl4
1~,
.. a 8 6
"'/,.
)I; 8 6
~ lit 6 (oPPtOx.) 20
Yt x (.\11 to fit
'1/'6 x 2 4
Y.. x It.. eet to fit

DIAGRAM

fOl HINGt:

(SEE fto. 6)

DOOR FRAME'"

flGUJlf 7

NOTE:

TOP VIEW

MITE. QUAl'll. ROUNO

STOPS TO A1 OPlNINGS

,--EMUl MOllS
THIOOGH
SlOf'S TO "-VENT
spumNG

CUT GLASS \',." LESS

TH,AN ASSlMIlfD
ftAME Of'fNING
~

1-.;.,...... S''';'' 36

SINGlf STlENGTH GlASS

(Al'I'tOx. '.,- fHI<:I<1

I
GLASS SlOP DETAI~

WOODSMITH

l7

'MeliN ,IoR'rop OF BACK!~

, .. UK<'

I I

~--~I~"'.

t~~lG~".Ei:iT!V~~~II~~~~.~~\~I!

,iJ

f-"T'

\!...._.,_...,_

"',

,.....
I

+..

I NOTE:

1_+=e~
...

T
,,,.

',.

,1"

20'

loeAlE10'
Of klYHOUS ..
DOWN ,toM lOP

- -

--+

..L

V,

IIACK

..1.

''":r-

"''-."f

-\

1.1.-

~ l.,...\'1'"'"'11-'-i

! r-:.J..

2'"

_J_ , ,j

l~

CUT aACt( TO 'INISHf:O WID'Oi AND

llNOlW 8EJOlE tuniNG MfJEIN

flGU.'

oe~~

AnAeM AUX,IUAJll

FEHCE

t ~

WIDTH Of NOTCH SHOULD

ae CfHTllED ON SrocK

ro

MITI. GAUGE

1--->'-1

1-+

II-"

STOP
"'OC.

.~-./ .h
__._L------1'!
'"
ri- -'I~
DErJ'HOF cur EQUAlS
THICKNESS
OF BAOC

r~/
N

",8'

8.";:;"'<1.'1./'

NOfeH OUT

tOGE Of Tor
AND &QnOM "feE."

flGulE '0

CROSS SECTION
lEAVl! t.: SHOUlDfR

~----r'-----_
SlOE
lOUT ON ftON'T ANO

l-:'--TT-O-M---~-,_r,j'\

.v

6'

NOff

GRAIN
OtIECY10H

,
fIGURE 11

"'.

TOP

l.

r-1

-r-

JL

f ,:

,ROUNDOVEI BIT

l-r.-i

~ I
::::

:~"-r2"""

3.

HMOVi REMAINING

wAS w,rH SABli SAW

AGAJNST ROUTt. ' ..... If ,

---0"

,"

TOt SIDE DOWN

CROSS SECTION

10'S'.' u.

4 J'J

ro,o~:UlON::~~
o'

lf

toMAH OGU

AND SIDEO(;(S ON[j

TOP AND BOTTOM

The back is now complete and lhe bortom

(E) and top IF) can be cut to tit around It.
Begin by edge gluing two pieces of 4/4
stoCk ('')''0" thick) to rough dimensions of
81>" wide by 15" long. Then rip this piece to
a finished width orS", keeping the joint line
centered on the piece.
Cut off tWO pieces (one for the top, one
for the bottom) that are each S" long,
(Note: The grain direction runs toward the
front to allow for wood movement.)
('l"M'lNG THt: NOTCllE$. AIW,the bottom
and top are cut to finished dimensions, the
back edge is notched out for mounting' the
back piece (G). 'ro!'oCt up this cut, I used the
waste piece left. when I CUI off the top and
bottom. Mark the width or the notch so it's
centered on thi~ waste piece.
Now make the tWO end cuts on the test
piece, see Fig. 9. To do this, raise the blade
high (or the exact thickness of your
back piece). Then attach a stop block to an
auxiliary fence on the miter gauge so the
cut is just a little bit $hort of the end mark
fm' the notch.
Cut one end
the notch. llip the test
piece around. and cut the other end. Test
the back ror fit and move the SLOPblock as
necessary to sneak up on the final width of
the notch. Once the notch in the test piece
is correct. cut netehes in the bottom (E)
and tOP(F), cleaning out the area between
the end cuts on 8 bandsaw,
ROt.'TI.'1GTilE BonOM. Th complete the
bottom piece. rout a \1:" cove leaving a v."
shoulder on the side and front edges. see
Fig. 10.
mpOP&SISC. To complete the top piece.
M opening is CULin the center to allow heat
from the candle to escape. Layout and drill

V,

or

1':"f~~'~G
_
<].~

) ~

Ie

.'

fOP $10 DOWN

AGAINST ROutER tABlE

CROSS SECTION

SHOUlDER

DIIU ~." OIAMETU IiOUS

EOGES ON~'(

~~<~

4i~,'tC~ "'" .
fL=[F'"
". )

Now that the frames are complete, the

back (G) can be cut to size. Begin by edgegluing enough y',"thick stock for the back
(Cl and the Optional platform (H) to rough
dimensions of r wide by 26" long.
Now \lOU have to do It little math to
determine the final width of the back. Take
the width of the door frame and subtract
the thickness of the two tongues on the
back rabbets of the side frames. (til my
case, the width of the back came out to 6".)
After ripping' the back to this finished
width, trim it to II tinallcngth of 2.0". see
fig. 8.
l'Ot) J\~I' eorrox PATTER~S. An.(!J' CUl..
ting the back to size, layout the scrolled
pattern on the tOJ) and bottom ends. see
F'ig. 8. Then cut OUt the pattern on the
bandsaw and dean up the edges with a
drum sander.
KEI'1I01,P.s. Finally, in order to hang the
lantern on the wall. rout two keyhole slots
in the back. This require. 8 special router
bit. SCI! Sources, page 24.

~AN
OU1 WASTEwrtH IAHDSAW

:J>...."

t --..i ~,~-J
''Y

"/1

ANOCUlTOm.ACt<"
I-

18

rr~EBCN+fQ=R:80+=TT~O:M=O~F:8:A:C:Kj_-r_~ANO'"
u,
<, \
'OOM &OTJOM

I-

t.-'

;"~I

'
_J_
', .j..~J.__.,-O-I

"r"

n IS ONlY NECIS1Atr TO MAKE HALf T'H-E

_l-_"t-TJ N i,fUP~"f,.N TO"""MIl OUT,
UN!l

r-

THE 8ACK

'I,/OODSMITH

..

hoi,,. at th, ton.o,.. of IlK>opcninj! and

ronnert Iht m ,nih 8 eabre "''', see Fij!, I I.

Then ",llh" rolr"" smooth,

11w I"" '""Ii" of th ... ""Ding i-, routed
..,th 0 .. roulld,"~ ... ver bit to match the
(",11'1(1' rho nth. (ront and side edges Qr
tht. t(1~1"'"C'f"an routed with a
Roman
Og~" bit.

V.

~i(le(ramf.

I:\,

t-tJ'"

~_-..._UACICET

~;;=='-~=!-::'

~LN'OT'

0...

00 NO' toUT
TO' 01 WK I,DOEOf .....

8RACKET MOLDING DETAIL

i JTl'

an

CUT ANO .OUT

"_

_, 'UC..
' ov.. "u
IH(N T~IMTO2 ,

RGUR' 13

CfNlta SCREWSOVE.

aw, scelWS OVII

THtCKN(SS Of $ID( flAMfS

\.. WIDTH Of SIDE flAMf

snllS

tOETAIl

(OUNtll'OIlE
'.' DIU',

i'
~V
---,

,1 -a

"x::::..,\
=1
'-

,
"110

,~

., .

..

... X 1

"-"""All

s:

SCUW

0000

,~

srI
.

PUll

..

c ',-

fROfllT VIEW

Sl.Q_~VIEW

RGUIf ,.

POsmoH TOP 2' - DOWN ;)

AtOM IOf' OJ IACJC
'

NOTE ......

0001

JO AllOW

' CtIAlANCI
ON ftW AND toTlOM

CHlSB PlUGS R.USH

JOI'

;::_c~~u.~.::---~_=~_..r

~~~f

<.

....
,.~

~ig.lI,

Once )tou'r(' sur ......ver)thing fits. dis.,....semble (unserew) all .he piece', finish
sand th.m and th(n flll,. and <crew them
lo~th.r_ \Vh..-nthe assembled lantern is
dry, plug the eounterbored holes in the top
and bouom and ... nd the plub", flush_
II', ""'t to ."ply the flllbh befol'l' put,
tin~ in the 1l1ao,. 1 u.-ed three coal> of
Sutrland WeU., 'I\u\j( Oil.
(a...... l""l"n Iho' gl.,- by nailing III'
brad- thl'''"l1h the p""trilled holes in the
<tops \\ ith a nail ,et, The ,top:; on the front
,odge an hanlto flet to "" I IL-ed a brad
poInt ,iler ",.., Sou"",., page 24)_
IIAR\)\\\Rt. Finally, in.:<taIlthe magnel,
bra., pull, and the decorative brass
hing. Nil" it'. jU~1 matter of deciding
whclh~ritl. goin!! to be n lantern. , .01' a
display ,,(W',
\VOOl)S~IITH

/.1

GtfD

CUmNG
OlTAiI

...-

\t

.,

THI fiNISHING STEPS

_,.'/

t-

"~"HO-'~'

'1:"

"'"ERN'

~_~~~ J '.

ASSIMBLY

Who'nall or the pieces are completed. the

bnt"m L! I'\,.. I~ for ""...,mbl~ Begin by
join,ng the t"p IF) alld bottom (E) to the
.ide (1':1""'. by e..\lllllrboring boles for tl;
x l" tlalh"'lt,1 st'rt,,"s. see "Oig. 13.
Tcmp',nlrlly serew the top and hottom to
the 'i<l,' framCll. Then drill hoies to join the
back to the to" 81111bottom. see Fig. 14_
Next, drill (I holp tnjoin the bracket to the
back, sec Fig. 1:1,
1l(K)Il. At this point. "\"erythinll should
be ,,'rN,'ocl in Ill""" exeept thedooe Attach
th. hinl(~,al1llle.I the door for fit. Theil
trim Ihe top lind bottom edges for equal
clearance ,u th(" clOfJrQJ,K:n~easily,
The I..,t bit of hard .. are is the ruagn<:ti~
catch. I ,..,,,la<1 the round bead machin.
holt that ....
.un,-w ith the door pull with a flat
head 0'... to att '" a .. tcll. Countersink thi,
Dat head bull In tlK' back oft"" door fram('
and I~~t(, th" IIllil(Tl('t"In,dly behind tbe
pull, "' ... detail in Fig. 14_
OI"TIO\ \1. 1'1.,THUlll Finally_ 1 added a
III'platform IH) because I wanted to raise
th. br.." ndh,tirk holder a linle higher
so it could be seen, Cut il to fit between the

'l ",
I

'n-SHCUI.OCH

BRACKIT

The hnl.kf'! II) lit th,' bottom of'the lantern

i~
men- (or decorauon than a true support
piece. St.,rt by clIlIlIIg It oversize: 3' wide
by G' Ion". Thi. provides enough room to
.""Hy cut the outline and ... rely rout the
I~.
\\,:h a Yo' roundinll over bit, see Fig,
12. An"r the ",utinll i,done, <tit the braeket te 8 final \\1dth or2 and a leoj!th or 1'.

.. __

._

t--

J'

...

':

I
I

ill

fl.\'
HrAO
MAC"I";(

'0"

I,

lJ"'sU".....

"

D.9_0. PUll
~t>ID CATCH DETAil

19

___

S_h_o~Notes

SOME TIPS FROM OUR SHOP

\Vhfle we were working on the projects for
lhi~issue, \\'C ran across several tips that
seemed to make thing go easier. We d....
cided to put them on this page because
they may be helpful for other prqjects you
are may be working on.
CUnlNG QUARTERROUND STOPS

The gla.<s for the wall lantern and regulator clock is held in place with custommade V," x if,- quarter-round stops. The
easiest (and safest) way to make the stops
is by cutting them off the edge of a lall,"er
piece of stock.
I started with a piece of 4'-1stock, about
lV.- wide and cut to the rough length
needed. First, all four edges are rounded
with a 1'.- rounding-over bit on the router
table, see Step 2 in ~'ig. I.
Then the quarter-round pieces are cut in
I\\'O steps. Raise lhe sawblade slightly
higher than Yo, and adjust the rip fence "0
it'. YO from the blade. Stand the rounded
piece on edge, and make a rip cut, see Step
3. Then turn the piece around so lhe opposite face is against the rip fence and
make another pass.
Now, following the same procedure, flip
the board over and make two more passes
on the other edge. This should result in an
"Hsshaped" block.

11
('l1fFtNC
I"'~ - \.'
\.jl~y'--J
'rRI"MING OFF THf: MOI.OINe. At this
point, it's just. mat ter of trimming off the
rounded edges. Set the sawblade slightly
higher than the thickness of the Stock. Set
the rip Ienee so the Hbloek extends 1'.beyond the o"'$id~of the blade (see Step
~), and trim orr the two quarter-round
pieces. Then reset lhe fencc and trim the
1'." strips off the second (:(I!.>'(>_
Note: Although it may seem easier and
Jaster to cut off the piece by setting the
fence V.. from the illside of the blade. this
will almost surely result in kickback 311he
end of the cut.
)IITF.R TOLSGTlI_ When you're ready to
miter the strips to fit lhe frame, we"''''
found it's much easier 10 miter the ends of

20

thin strips like this with the help of an

auxiliary fence attached to the miter
gauge. (The thin strips nex tOOmuch and
tend LOchatter when the cut is rnade.)
Attach a fence so it extends all the way
to the blade when the miter gauge is set at
40. Theil raise the blade high enough to
CUI off lhe end of thls fence. 'Vhen cutting
the quarter-round pieces. use lhe end of
the fence to gauge the position of the cut.
STOPPEDMOLDING CUTS

1\"0 ofthe projects in this issue (the icebox

and the lantern) have stopped molding
cuts. The only problem with making a
stopped cut is setting UI) the stop block so
the cut stops exactly where you want it to.
'KlU~

SlOt'K~

&lOCK

R'/t:::

Then I made a second set of marks 'Yo. in

toward. the center from the start and stop
marks to position the ends of the stop
blocks.
Ry clamping stop blocks at the second
set of marks, Iwas able to .LOpthe molding
cuts at the correct, position. Another side
benefit of using stop blocks is that when
they're clamped Lightly to the workpiece,
they can help prevent chip out at the end of
the cut.
QS AS ASSP-MIII..:n .RA~IE_ A similar
method can be used when stop-routing the
inside edge of an assembled frame. (This
was done on the thr~ door frames for the
icebox, see page 9.)
Start by laying out the starting and
stopping points of the molding cuts on the
finished frame. Then make another set of
marks 10indicate the starting and stopping
points of the pilot. (Since I used the same
'I.. ,'Ounding-o"er bit, this second set or

Jllt-7~~~

----~I~~'
~
1:~_~:::;;;--~
El!I..: L,.

mark~ was til" in towards the tenter ()(

MAt. ENO

f\\:-'~ _

OF "'"

the frame.)
1b make the stopped cuts on the inside
edge of the frame, clamp the stop blocks 10
the adjacent inside edges, see fig. 3. However, in this case, the width of the blocks
determines where the molding cuts will
slop. Cut each stop block to width NO it
lines up with the second mark.
When making tile cuts, clamp the stop
blocks flush with lhe faces of the frame and
rout around the inside corners. The molded edge can be stopped the same distance
from each corner by simply rotating the
same stop blocks the lllijacent frame sid es,

-----~~~::

~'""

,1

...........
~lf

3. MtAsuJt OISlANC(BETWEfN
MA.JJ(Sl_Y'<

~
......

The problem is that the point where the

I)ilol hits the stop block is different from
where the bit acLUallystop>,cutting, refer
LOFig. 2_ (Note: Routing a stopped cut
with the technique described here require.
using a bit with. pilot. A 1'." corner-round
bit with pilot was used on both the icebox
and the lantern.)
To determine the difference in the loeatlons between where the pilot SLOpsand
where the bit stops cutting, it's necessary
to rout a Lest stop block first.
rt:l.'TS1'OI' UUXK. Begin by clamping a I"
"ide by S'long block to a piece of scrap, see
Fig. 2. Then mark the location of the end of
lhe stop block, see Step 1.
U.ing the same 1'.- reundlng-over bit I
planned to use on the>finished project, I
routed the inside corner formed by the
SLOpblock and the scrap, see Step 2. Then I
unclamped the stop block and marked the
end of the router cuton the scrap piece, see
Step 3. The difference between the two

marks was .,",

New it's simply a matter of marking the

points where I wanted the molding cut to
start and stop on the finished workpiece.

ROUTEr

Shop Note: F'igure 3 shows using a

handheld router. This same technique can
also be used on a router table.
CLEA.~L"CTHE ROl:NI). One final DOLe
about these stopped cuts, When using
many router bits for "LOppededging cuts
(such as the 1'." rounding-over bit we
used), there is still a little hand work that
has to be done after making the cui.
At both the starting and stopping
points. the bits leaves 8 aquared-off shout\VOODSMITH

der thal looks a little odd. Round off this

shoulder with a me and ..andpaper to produce a smooth appearance lhat mate he.
the rounded edge made by the bit, see
Fil(. 4.

frame is assembled, 'lb do this. we used a

rabbeting bit with a pilot that rides around
the inside edll'! of the frame,
However, this will also produce rounded
corners that have 10 be chopped square
with a chisel.
THE RtGHT lilT. We usually recommend

USE Rlf TO

SHAPE.,ROAlE

ROUTING !!ABBETS

Allhough the best method to cut a rabbet is

tA> use a table saw (I'ilUI~n. tend 10 cause
chip out). there are limes when it jusr isn't
possible. For example. when the stopped
rabbets had to be cut on the frames of
the wall lantern and the dew,.,.of the ice-

box,

lh~ only \\'8)to

ffGURf S

Ie

stop the cut was to use

a router,
There are actually two differenl
metheds for cullin)! stopped rabbets on
Irames, One method involves cutting the
rabbet b~rQreassembly, and a second
method involves cutting it ofter assembly,
ItABRi:TIS(; 8ErOIl ASSEMBLY.The (Irsl
method consists of rabbeting the rails and
stiles alter the mortise and tenon joints are
CUI, bUI iJe/()re the frame", assembled.
The rnhbels on the rails (the pieces with
Ihe tenons) arc easy to Cut.Just mut down
the enlire length o( the rail, "'" Fig. 6.

STOP.... "" ON STI~

However. the trick is euuing' the rabbets

on the stiles (tbe pieces with the mortises).
I(a rabbet were cut from end to end on the
stites, it would be exposed on the top and
bottom end. of the frame.
The solution i,to cut SLOpped rabbets on
thv .Iiles, Clamp .1011blocks on the router
table to ><tart and $[OP the rabbet short of
wher~ it meeu- the shoulder of the rabbet
on the rail, 'CC Flit. S.
Then after assemblv, the comers formed
31 the end o( the slopJM'd rabbet. can be
chopped square with" chisel.
IUB.DI;T"t. "I'TER \..~'tHl.'
The seeond mel hod i~
to rout the rabbet>; aft" the
\"OODSM1TlI

COMPOUND MITERS

Compound miters are often made on thl!

table saw with the miter gaUll'!angled and
the blade tilted. This procedure involves
referring 10 a chart for the correct angles
to set the miter gauge and the blade.
But if the It-or/"piece can be tilted 10 the
angle it will be used, the blade can .tay at
90', and only the miter gauge need tit'
angled. This situation doesn't happen
often, but I was able to usc this cutting
technique for the crown moldings on the
clock and the icebox,

using a carbide- tipped router bit with a

ball-bearing pilot whenever possible. Unfortunately, we couldn't locate 3 carbidetipped bit to CUIa V'-wide rabbet, which is
what we needed on the wall lantern. (All
the carbide- tipped bits we know Qr cut a
V."wide rabber.)
Since we couldn't lind a carbide-ripped
RGUIE 7
C-ClAM'
bit, we ended up using 3 high speed steel
bit. Sear. make. a rabbet hit (H25.'i811
with three differem screw-in pilots that
will allow the standard rabbet bit to cut
11\", '1' ", and
rabbets. Also, one-piece
rabbeting bits are made by bolh Bosch
(~851;;o)and Porter-Cable 1#1!l45.~).
SCORINGPAss. Now, back 10 CUlling rab..untGAUGE
bets. No matter what bit you usc, it almost
a1waY8chips out the wood along Ihe I><lge
HfGM AUXIUAIY fENCE
of the rabbet.
The only way we know to eliminate thif
At:X1LIAR' FENl't:. 1'0 make the cut, beproblem is to make a light scoring pas. ill
gin by (asUlning an auxiliary fence to the
the opposite direetiun that the router
miter gauge. The fence has to be tall
usually runs,
enough w support Ihe molding when It's
RGURE 6
SCORING DIRECTION
held at the desired angle.
STlAIGHl' I" ON tOUTER TABU
Since the bormm edg,' of th~ molding
fENCE

pieces (0" the clock and the icebox are cut

~
at ..Ji)., there's a small fiat surface lhal ran
'__
MAKl UGHT PASS
res,t on the surface or the table saw. The wI'
fROM lfFT TO RIGHT
edge is then supported by the auxiliary
fence, see r'ig. 7.
To prevent the molding piece from slid<'~
RAUEr
ing
up eluring the cut, clamp a small stop
HtOV fRAME
err W1TH
AROUND PlLOr
- ,.tOT
block to the auxiliary rent' !!so it rests on
IN A COUNlEI 1'1-'the top edge of the molding.
"OdONlSE
OttE(TtQN
~IAKL"(:THE ('IT. Begin by rotating the
miter gauge to 4.')< and place it in the left
slot of the table saw. Tip the workpiece to
the correct incline and bring it up tight
under the SLOPblock and against the auxilSet the router bit LO the (1111 depth o( cut iary renee. Then mak. Ihc CUI.see Ag. 8.
and make a "backwards" scoring pass, see
RGUII:E.
SWITCH
Fig. 6. What you want to do is score the
TO
IittGHf
bottom o( the cui 10 prevent chip-out. (The
LFJ.HAND
t4.A.NO
SlOT_.J1
SLOT
"bottom" edll'! of the rabbet is actunlly the
edge you see (rom the fl'ont of the frame whei ... the frame and the glass meet.)

'1,

......->

Y'"

,""orsome strange reason I've never

been able to figure out, this backwards
seoring' pass produces a very smooth CUt,
with no chip-out.
A word 0/ calli in".. When thls "backwards" scoring pass is: made on the router
table, the bit tends to grab the workpiece
and pull it out of your hand. Hold the
workpiece firmly and do not make too deep
a cut. Just let the workpiece bounce along
the bit.
Ait~r Ihe edge is scored, cut the rabbet
to full width, hut this time rout in the
normal direction.

To cut the other end of the workpiee e,

move the miter gauge to the right slot and
swing it to the opposite 4Jj" setting.
If the molding can be cut by holding il
agailt$t an auxiliary rence this wa)'. the CUt
is likely to be much more accurate than the
normal compound miter procedure,

21

Miter with'

en S~line

STEP-BY-STEP
A miter joint is the one to use
when you're building a frame
with stock that has molding cuts
on the face of th. pieces. The
miters at the corners allow the
molding patterns to blend into
each other. sec photo.
The ollly problem with a miter
joint is that it'. not "cry strong.
....'hen it's used on a door tespedally a door that has to support
the weight of a glass panel. the
joint has to be strengthened SOme
way.
This was the case {or the door
on the regulator dock shown on page 12. To
strengthen the mitered joints 011 thi. door.
we added an open spline. This joillt is relatively easy to make on a table saw - with
the help of a jig.
THE J 'G. The jig is an H.haped box that
straddl es the fence just loosely enough so
it slides eASily,see Fig. 1. '1\\'0 support
fence. are screwed to the side of the jig at
45"10 hold the frame in place when the kerf

cvr

KER .. .OR SPLL~E. Next.

place the frame in the jig and

raise the blade 50 it', about Y'
below the inside comer of the

frame. However, if there's arab--

is cut for the spline.

Shop Note: Allow a little separation at
the comer where the fences meet so sawdust can fall through.
SETL1'FORKERK Now to make the joint.
miter the pieces to len)l'lb and assemble the
frame by gluing pairs together; and the"
glue the halves together. see ~'ig. 2. (Just
hold the mitered ends together with hand
pressure onl), for about one minute.)

bet on the frame (as on the door

for the regulator clock), sel the
blade ;0 it'. about ~~. below the
corner formed by the rabbets. see
Fig. 3.
Hold the frame firmly in the jig
and cut a single kerf 8t each eerner o{the frame. see ~ig.~.
ASSEMIJLV.After the kerfs are
CUI. the spline can be CUI 1.0 fit.
First, lip a pice. of stock to width so it's
about v.. wider than the maximum depth
of the kerf. refer to Fig. ~. Thrn this piece
on edge to resaw a spline thick enough to
(it snugly in the kerf.
After lhe spline is cut, glue it in the kerf
and damp across the joint with a Cclamp,
see Fig. 5. When the glue is dry. saw off the
"ears" of the spline and sand the ends ofthc
spline Rush with the frame. see Fig. 6.

10TH ARMS srr Af cs

ro fOlI.M afGHT ANGlE '\'I

'-

HOlD WITH ltAND P1tUSURE )

FOt AIOUT ONl MIN\I1t -

Makeoll H.',aped;iy thatfit 8111(gly

Ofer the rip/~),ce. Add S-l<pporl/.?,ces
at ~5,leadny a space u'/,ere the /tmU8
meet 80 sawdust call /al/lhrough.

Mil.r tlte piece[orih door lrome If)

I."gtlt. Then assemble the fram, gill'
;119 pairs togell,er (witlt halld pre",/re
mllg). The" glu. the two "al,..,. logelher.

RAISE BlADE -

......
snow COlNEJt OF tuans

tI,,

,\foIHlllhr/mm. ill 'hejig and .,cl

11'1J'" of cui af U" blatf<.. ruisi)lg II"
blade 80 it'. abtJl,1 if, belol" the inside
co..ner formed by lI,e rabbet:

IVhe" tile glut is dry. Irim on' tlu:

To make the 8pli>le8. rip a piece of
the/rom. firmly ill 0" jig "lid
5
4 Hold
6
.:en
"ears" ,,>III! a oocksaw. Theil
IIwk. a CI<I at eac/I COM'eT fO..,11 ti,.
811l<:k'I.. wider tha>l IIIR kerf i.' deep.
plan or sand IIU' trpostd ends of th

II,.

10

kerfs faT
spli,,. s. Use (l rip blod.. ,rillt
jlal teeth to oui flat-bouomed kerfs.

22

TI"m re.aw the Ilplille W l"icknes8 80 ilfil.$

tne kerf. lid glue atul damp it ill place.

splillt fll<8h with U,. edge 0/ tJU'frame.

\VOODSMITH

___

Ti_a_lk_in_g
Sho~
AN OPEN FORUM FOR COMMENTS AND QUESTIONS

CHILD SAfE MATERIALS

I alii i>ll(!Tf3led ill III(illlill(1Ihe Toy 7ru(k
8hQII')) ;t/ "'ood$mith .\'n . '15, but I Ifaloe
lit'''''' buill allY loys lx1m." alld 0111 COli'

.crlled aboul IIJP"8

~r11'00<1,

111II<>g,

""II

fil1i.illUI ",ltic" shollid be ""td 41h regards

10 llle Safel!1 alld heoll" of childrc.

Curl 018011
Groton. Conueciieu!
IVh"" choo.o;ingthe correct materials for
building children's IOy~,the question we
hear most often is "\\'hat kind of wood
should I use?"
Unfonunatel,\', there isn't a single, uni-

versal species to recommend tOl' wooden

toys, There are, however, some species

that have characteristie that fit the needR

of children's toy" better than other".
\Ve'\'e found that using a hard. close
grained hardwood works best (or toys.
Open grained woods (like oak, ash, and
mahogany) tend to splinter more casU)'.
and unless their pores are lilloo, they can
collect dirl over the yean and ruin the
appearance of the toy. Their "loud" grain
also has a tendency to appear overpowering on the small pieces of a toy,
IVcdecided to use beech for both the Toy
Truck and the Airplane in WOOII,omitll No,
35. Beech is alight colored hardwood that's
tight grained, even in texture, and has an
attractive gt'1)in pattern. Bl'l.'Chi,also hRrd
enough to be du""ble, yet not '0 hard that
it's difficult to work with.
Other common speci!'s that art! aLlogood
choiCCbror building toys are birch (which i.
used to make toy wheels); ha.-rl maple.
which is .-enJ hard and enn produce extremely sharp cOl'ners, but has an attract",. grain pattern; and soft maple.
with the advantage8 of hard maple, without being quite ... hard,
A good choice (or adding a litlle ron
tra.ting color to a toy would be either
cherry or wulnut, Bul bc careful using
.,otic woods to add ~Ior to lay. There
arc ~om(_'e-:<oli~:;pecies that. can ('3U$C
I>{'''cl'(' aIIcrc readian for some people,
fa.t f.s. Choosing the kind of glue to use
really "n't a problem. Any of the alphRtic
re";n lyollo\\'1 or polyvinyl acetate (white)
glues that.U"(' commonly available are safe
to Uri,' un chiltlrcn'~to~!s.
.'t"t'II.~ A. (or choo>ing a finioh. tho
be.t ao.-\,,'r i, to) find a finish that cle3l'ly
Slates "n th.. label that it's safe fOl'use on
(0)':;.

W" """uld UIII't Itvo.ding two finistles

\VOOnS\1I r H

for use on toys: One is linseed oil. which

never completely dries: the other L' vegetable oil. which can turn rancid, even
after it's been applied to lhe toy,
The three finishes we recommend for
use on toys are: ''Juteo Danish Oil (they sa)'
it takes 30 days for their finish to become
non- toxic), pure tvng oil (at one time, it
was used "" a t'Ollting on the inside of tin
cans), and Salad Bowl Finish by Behlen.
This is an oil-varnish type finish that contains only ingredients that 81-eapproved
by the FDA for use in contact with food.
SEARS lOCKING

TUNG Oil MAINTENANCE

III \Voodsmith No, .11. 'here I('OSall a71iclr

nt. "]IOIY1llenzed"1/1flg oil that
"tril
iute ..."lIillg. Tile ,illig qll'$/iuI/ J !ta.dofter
n_'udillg tJt~ tJ.Jti~Jt It'aA abotu tilt' Inai,,
tenouc schedule, Pronk lI'dl.,< IIIt11'
tiotted tllf' l~l(li)llel'IJPlCe schedule l~llc6the

1''''8

()Plly lli8adr'(1ntagc

ItI U$ilt{J Irl1l9 oil.

[I, II", artid, ht ,tleN< 10 reap"lyill{l

Ilmg oil o(ca,.icmally. b,,, ollly ill "try

l/tuerol terms. C(J" yQIl protjdt, lIre ((,itl,

",ort dtttuilt'(i infurnuitio 01' wlui! a
proper
i~cIde,

ROUTERS

SCHEDUle

IllaiJltl')lallte

schedu!

It'ol([(i

Thi letter is itt reference 10 a leiter from

,1Ir. Rober: 8(11<(lm. publi.iled ill \Voodsmith N. J~.(Editor's Note:
his letter,
Mr. Balcom d,s('Ils$cd h,,"' lh~ I""king
))tftl,.ouis);t (')n /1;" Sears rol(l(>f' "'OS ",ade
from all il(fl'Tior alluy. ",IIiel, allu"",d 1/",

Polymerized tung oil produces n beautiful

finish, but as with any oil finish, it tends to

part to break dllrillg

dry out over a period of time. Keeping a

I.,

II$~.)

We ore fhq manufacturers

and 11'011111
like to cleu,'

01 th is 10ft/a

"I' (IllY

lIIi8-

Bl'IIja',''''l Pauon
Da"'(I$(I($. lturylalld

finishoo project looking good requires fol

Jo""ing a fe\, en.~ymaintenance

steps.

eonception C())lc"ti)lg II,e Odtqll(l(!1 o.f

ill< Shaft locking m,'rhaniRm, Tilt slide
lark ,,,,,,I itt Ihis applirotilJlI i.IIwdt [ron:
a strltcho ...1polt-dcr('dmetot, Shortly aftrr

A=l'ding to Frank 'Welles, the ideal

maintenance schedule is to apply 'lUng Oil
Wood Care (one of his products) one. a
month. The \,{nod Care product helps keep
illff'Q(illC(ioll
0/ tll~ili!lt' mechanism, Yr. the wood moist. and over a period of time.
por! oJ the slide lork breakage ,,{<-rled1(8 will help build what he calls gun stock
10 IIIP lI~rII 10 slrellglhell llii. IX!rl, .-III "heen.
immediat t/,(),ttgr '(Yt.~tJ~l'r(lfo)'l!made fa
As Frank talked about maintaining a
tung
oil finish, he used the ana]Ol!Y of mainolld radii ill lite i"tt>nlol cm'lw",01111'/,,"1
a/III In ;"l'rea'f tit. ]10.1 dell$ily, Ow""by lainilll( a Jine piece of leather by oiling or
polishing it once n month. The idea bn't to
;1I~rw$illlJ il. ""cmll $1r(llgth.
Si"f'c lItis (),(lngC' It'O~ 111ad(' ilt, ('Ul"iy
3""umulate linish on lhe surface. but to
enrich the lini.h and to build a sheen that
/98/, /"e slid, lock brrakag. I.robltlll has
allow!! you to look right into the wood
ben. <omplel"fy dimillo/fll.
iL-<elf.
IVhat tho I\'ood Care pl'Oduet doesn't do
D. B. Ki"!1
Sl)'gf'~ .\f(N()r Part~ D;Ii.~;t)'r J. continua!!)' add laye,' after layer of new
oil. which can ,."ult in a build up of fini.h.
fl-nnk al~n
mpntion(l(J that ~imply
I'~iling
BLANKET CHEST HINGES

once Or l\\"'ice a year can a1~ be u.sed as a

\V,'v, recch'ed tI number of letletb (I'om

readers who are having prublem, obtaining the Back Flap hinges ncooed for
the Blanket Chcst that appeared in WoodRmilh :-:0. 32. Originally, we listed \Voodcraft Supply lIS n source. :\(1 we decidoo to
tontact !)a\'id Dra\'es. \VoodC"lft'S MerchandiS<' Manager.
According to David, the particular
hinge.(Na. 16R 12-PH)are no longeriisLOO

maintenance schedule, but the build up of

both finish and lu.tre can become. prob
J('m over a period of time.
On heavily usoo pieces that are '!Ii.rty or
haven't been maintainer!. Frank 'ecom
mendoo w<ing'lUng Oil Cleaner to remo\'.
dirt and grime. At the same time, the
cleaner also .-eapplies another COat of oil to
bring the swrace back to life. Thib st~p
would be for dining room tables or kitchen
in their catalog. Nevertheles6, he say~ tables that have con.ide''3bte wear and
they stiU have SOm~in sto('k and will con- tear.
For more intonn.3lion 0)" to urder an,' of
tinue to earry them M 101\gas there is a
the Sutherland Welles linishinp: product$,
demand, \\le suggest you send your order
"A'l'TN: Da\~d Dra\'e8" at IVoodcraft Sup- contact Frank \VeUes. 403 \Vea\'er StlWt,
ply, 41 Atlantic Ave.. P.O. Box ~OOO. Carrboro., NC 27510, Telephone: (919)
\Vobum. MA 01888; 800-225-1153.
96719i2.

23

Sources
WALL LANTERN

ICEBOX

You can order the hardware for the ieebex

from the following SOIlJ"('CS:
CONSTA.'TINEs, 2050 Eastchester Road.
Bronx, Ne" York 10461; 8002288087
(Note: $7.50 minimum order. Catalog:
51.00). Irtbox hard",. .... $CI. in<ludes six
hinges, one right. hand latch, and two left
hand latches. Order No. 1.B4. $.58.00 for
the set. Thblt lop JiJ,'(~IIn't<."{ -+.' ortset,
Order No. 96)1;I, $.95 per 10. Rm8~shelf
~"pporI8, fit into
hole. Order No.
32A 12B, S.80 per 12.
TIlE BIU-"STREE. 308 ~, Main St., St.
Charles, MO 6.'l301;(314) 7231()'11(Catalog: $2.00). -lI'hite Clad" N()m~ Plate,
Order No. B2057, $4.15 plus $2.00
shipping.
\Ve bought the
thick )'e[ngrrator
door glo88 at a lora! gja.", ::hOII for $17.50.
The router bit to make the crown
molding;'; a vailable from the Seal's 1984 85
Power and Hand Tool Catalog, page 17:
I'oillt-Cultillg ageeBil, ',01', Order No.9
GT 26583. SiAS.

y,

y,

You can order all or the hardware for the

wall lantern from one source:
CO)lST~XTIXES (address above), Bat!
Tipped B,,(I Hinges, 1y,lellgth, '.v,." open
wid Ill, Order No. 73A54, 52.50 a pair.
BroS8 Drop RillY, 1(.' wide. Order No.
KC27, $1.35 each. Magnelic Calch, ,.,,'
diameter, Order No. &5F23. $.60 each.
IVt had a local glass supplier cut v..'
single strength glass 10 fit the finished
framee in our lantern. The total bill: $.~.82.
A couple of the tool. we found useful in
building the wall lantem are I",ailnbl~ (rom
the Sears 1984/85 Power and Rand Tool
Catalog: Kell SIl)l Cull"" (p, Iii. Y,' hoie,
Order No.9 GT 2.5548, $1.99. Brad Poi,11
Nail." (II. 96). Order No.9 (,'T 25165.
$14.99. Using a brad point nailer (pictured
below) was the easiest way tu mount the
;:tops In Lhe frOnt edges of the frarn(....
BRAD POINT NAILER

REGULATOR CLOCK

You can order all of the pazI; for the clock

from one source:
(RA~"I'RODlcrs. 2200 Dean Street, SI.
Charles IL 110174; (312) 5840000 (Cln<k
Builder Catalog: $2.00).
Qltarl: Jfot'cmellt (shown in photos),
with 8 BiOI-Bam chime. 10' wood pendulum, :1' bob. S" swing. Order 1110. :!:l(N
N.t2. $29AO. Houd., Order No, 2430 P41
(free with movement). Dial. 8'4- din ..
Order No, 276,', R40. $3.00.
K,ylt,"d .1ful'f:III"'I. "ith halfhuur
gong strike, 10 wood pendulum, 4"bob, G"
swing, Order Xo. 2250 M21, $49.:10
Handa, Order No. 2-1301'20 spade tfree
\\~th mo,'ement). (NOTE: 'i'he-<c hands are
nOI listed in the ~UlTent Craft Produet-catalog, but we ha\'e been "-,,,ured they a.....
a\'ailable.' /)iol (punched" {IV" dia.,
Order No. 2i6b R40, 53.90.
Glas8, 17'/,,' , 8'/-. Order No. BOOIO,
$7.26. Hilly'S (21, IY, Iix II, \\', Order
No. 40'202.$1.~5 .... h. Bra DtJUrLatch
;t." Ii )(1;(.' 'W, Order No. 40700. $.&5.
Bra$8 Km,b, V,' Dia. x Vi Ii,Order Xo.
41234,3.95. Back Lock. (set of 41. ~"- x I'.
Order No. 428(J.t,$,2.). Hallgertl(2), 1',' H
x IV. \\', Order No. 42706, 5.20 each.
Hmlogc Paste Wood SI(1I. I-> pinl can.
Order Jamestown 345H Qr Golden (}dk
34515. :sa.50. Hen/ag, P.t, \anlt"h. y,
pint can, Order No. 34510, $3.25.
The '1'.. ' PoilltCutlill{J OgeeRouter Bil
used to make the crown molding is from
Se3l'll. (See ordering Information abovp.)

24

more information contact Bob Kjonaa;.

Souris Yalley \\'oodworker> Association.
P.O. Box 3().12, Minot, N D 58702.

FOREST PRODUCTS LABORATORY

One source that is often cverloeked by

weodworker is the U.S. Government.
The Forest Products Laboratory in Mad
isen, \Visconsin is a great source for mformalion and adviee, As taxpayers, we have
read~taCCEfiS to much of the research resuits at the FPL.
\Ve recently talked with Mike Conteeac,
Technical Information Speciali"t. MJkt,explalned that the FPL is a p<,rt "flh" ~o,.,'"t
Service, a branch of the Unit.od St:.I~"
Department of Agricultun:. It ;" the onl~
federal center for wood rc,.car,h in thO'
nation. The FPL ~mpha.'\lU'~new IUC~rur
wood and wood base products,
The infermarien avallabl (""n th I~,b
serves both th~ layman "" \\, II ,. 110,pro
fessional, ~likc explained l hat til<" wlll
eagerly answer ctuc~linn:f HtU.llt "Qt,,1
t""Malog), over the I,Mn. 01' b~ 1II"Ii, hilt
would like to keep th('!<it~ t,1 hlurt" ('f)1111')' x
problems (Not. "Ho\\ tJ~. 1 "ulrll nly
house?").
\\roociy,orkc.'r'::' fni)lht be u,l ..-rv t ..",lln tilt:
publication lists available l,~ \\ I'lin~lhl
t'PL. These list.' mclude 1'u 1011<111101'" thllt
present the rt.:.ult.....o(th,,rrt'N-oan-h. Soffit'
that mjght b. of Intc~1"I t te' \\(""1 .. ,,,,11,
readers are "Stnlc,'tur'(' .trwl 1('t"lItlfi..: Itll)n

of \Vood," "Li't or Publicauor II. lalll\~ I..

Furniture
~1anl.r~('tlJr'I'!'
Itfl.l \\''It),1
WOODWORKING
CLUBS
workers," "v'''_'nl"t'r nnd l'lv\\OOtJ," "Jlnr
The list of'woodworking clubs cominues Lo tieleboard .'liitl Panel 1~1"C)(lut;LB." f,OS:t \\ inJ,!
and Rel:ttt!(1 Procceses ." "ltr)'If1': uf
grow, Here are the latest addiuons.
)IICHICA' \\ ()()I)WORh.RS'Cit 11,0.Th,s
IV_I" and "l;luv" and (;Iu.d 1',..,,111<18
"
:ll.ichllnUl1,'rouPof prof~".ion31,. and ama
'rht J'fubht~~tirlrt!i in tI1t'1l(0 ti~t8 MI11J.!'
teurs has been in existence ror a couple from It('m~ of interest tn the hf)mt \"1)(1(1
yearsand ha- o\'er200 members, For mur

infonnatian ""ntaCt David 1: Grifforc, P.O.

Box 7802, Ann Arbor. M I 48107

worker to \,t'I")' ~llhll-tlC'alt_

.....
lllnfl technical
t()rnt.~.Tht' f'ullhl':ttlt.nri IU"t' avail bh, from

a "ari~ty of gaU""," illcJudinl{ th,' l'.S.

GoV{'rnmem Priming Offi<l', .oriou, priFrom Mark Pad~~ky com..._,word that this vate lind public vendQI'lI, ()IIbUe libran."
group hat' recontly
n formed and mef'[, and tlw ~'''Tl'''tl"roduct. Lab it.<clf. Some
on a monthl)' ba.q;j Get mo~infoMnftlion are fr.'" of <barge alld t!()me l'll1I be ODfrom M.ark Padesky. 1525 W. SunnY"iew taint'd at 3 rea."Onable fee
Dr;'e. P~'Ori3, IL 61614.
The Lab al;o off ..,. infonnati,. guided
h.~~TICK\ WOOIIWORKE;I!S AS~O(IA. toUT>'
>howing their "ast range of researcb
T10S. Mareie Crane. presid~nt of this
facllilies a. weU as displays of rorest prodstatev.ide organization, rec<'ntly sent u. a uct,:.and modem uses of w()9(l. Toul''; for
copy of their impre ..',sivenewsletter. Any- l'amiliesand indi>;dualsate available to lht
one can rocej\'~t\\o free issues of th~ir general publie on Monday thl'OUghThUl'>'
ne"'sletter and more information b)t \\Tit day at 2:00 pm, Special arrangements may
ing Marcie Crane, K. \I'.A., P.O. Box be made for group roW'S.
22018, Lexington, KY ~0522.
For more information 01' LolW<!i.~ on"
of
the publication lists, ('I)ntact Mike ('onSOt:RIS VALLEI' WOOIlWORKERS A;;SOC!.ATIO:>'.
From the far north com"" word tezac, Fore~l Products Laboratory,
thaI this group has been in exi;;tence a U.S.D.A., P.O. Box 5180, ~ladj~on, \1'1
little over a year and has 50 members. For 53705: (608) 2645640.
l'EORlA

ARE,'

WOQIl\\OR~ER~

('LI U

WClOD,MITII