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Envoy Textiles Ltd.

Acknowledgement
At the beginning I remember the Almighty Allah for give me the opportunity to complete
the industrial training. I have completed my industrial training at Envoy Textiles Ltd.
Jamirdia, Bhaluka, Mymensingh. I attended on training from 2nd May 2013 to 30thJune2013.
My special thanks to Prof. Dr. Mustafizur Rahman, Head of the Department of Textile
Engineering, AUST. Heartily thanks to Ms. Nasrin Akter for her continuous guiding. Also
thanks to all the faculty members of Textile Engineering department.
Thanks to all the management body of concern mill for their support and kindness. Cordial
thanks to Mr. Tushar Tripathi,CEO; Mr. Hamimur Rahman (GM ,Human Resource); Mr.
Nanda Dulal Biswas (GM, Production) and I also like to thanks all Sr. Manager, Manager, Sr.
Executives, Executives and other officials of Envoy Textiles Ltd. for providing me support
during attachment period. My gratitude also goes to all the employees of Envoy Textiles
Ltd. for their co-operation, support and valuable advices.

Page 1 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

Chapter-1 : General Information


1.1

Introduction:

Envoy Textiles Ltd., leading denim fabric producer in Bangladesh since 2005, started the
commercial production in early 2008. This industry is professionally managed and
technically sound organization located at Bhaluka, Mymensingh (60 km North of Dhaka
City).The plant is fully integrated with State of the Art technology and machinery from USA,
Japan, Korea, Switzerland, Italy, India& Belgium. Envoy Textiles Ltd. produces indigo denim
fabric with the best and most modern ROPE DYEING Technology. With ever increasing
acceptance of quality fabric and increase in demand the production capacities were
expanded at regular intervals. The target production capacity of Envoy Textiles Ltd. is 20
million meter per year.
Recently, the factory has achieved ISO 9001: 14001 quality certification and its products are
OKOTEX certified. Envoy Textiles Ltd. produces a range of products from 6.5oz to 15oz. of
denim fabrics and in a variety of shades and cast basic indigos and sulphur topping or
bottoming, in 100% cotton and a variety of blends. ETL targets to be listed in Dhaka Stock
Exchange and Chittagong Stock Exchange by issuing IPO by June, 2012. Assigned AA + rating
by Credit Rating Agency of Bangladesh.

Page 2 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

1.2

Vision of The Company:

1.3

Strength:

1.4

To become a vertically integrated manufacturer for fabric & garments.


Excellence in product quality.
Diversify products through continuous product innovation.
Customer orientation and cost effectiveness.

Short lead time.


Highly skilled manpower at low cost.
Diversified Product Portfolio.
High Standards of quality and service.
Own power generation.
State of the art Effluent Treatment Plant to safeguard the environment.
Process & Technology improvements.

COMPLIANCE:

Envoy Textiles Ltd has received numbers of key Industry standard certifications. These are:

Oeko-Tex Certified Class1


GOTS Certified (Global Organic Textile Standards)
OE100 or OE Blended (Organic Exchange)
ISO-9001:2008 Certified
ISO-14001:2004 Certified
BSR Audit (Business for Social Responsibility) Certified

ETL is in process of achieving GREEN FACTORY certification.

Page 3 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

1.5

Board of Directors:

Engr.Mr. Kutubuddin Ahmed


Mr. Abdus Salam Murshedy
Mrs. Rashida Ahmed
Mrs. Sharmin Salam
Mr. Tanvir Ahmed
Ms. Shehrin Salam Oishee
Mr. Abul Kalam, FCA

1.6

Chairman
Managing Director
Director
Director
Director
Director
Director

Company Address:

Factory:

Corporate Office:

Envoy Textiles Ltd.


Jamirdia, Bhaluka, Mymensingh;
Bangladesh.
Phone: 0682-555037-40
Fax: 0682555008

Envoy Tower,5th -8th Floor


18/E Lake Circus Kalabagan
West Panthopath;
Dhaka-1205
Bangladesh.
Phone: +88 0 2 9102583-90
Fax:+88 0 2 9103128-29
Web: www.envoytextiles.com

Page 4 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

1.7

Location Map of Envoy Textiles Ltd.(Hand Sketch):

Reedisha
Spinning
Ltd.

Badsha
Textile

Dhaka-Mymensingh Highway

Square Masterbari

Tepantor
Resorte

Figure: Location Map of Envoy Textiles Ltd

Page 5 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

1.8

Location Map of Envoy Textiles Ltd.(Google Map):

2418'17.24"N 9023'2.93"E
Figure: Location Map Of Envoy Textiles Ltd (Google Maps)

Page 6 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

1.9

Layout of Different Section:

Page 7 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

1.10

Organizational Structure:
Chairman

CEO

G.M (H R)

Manager
(P.P)

Asst.
Manager

G.M (Production)

Manager
(Dyeing)

Asst.
Manager

G M (Mechanical)

Manager
(Weaving)

Asst.
Manager

Manager
(Finishing)

Asst.
Manager

Executive

Executive

Executive

Operator

Operato
r

Operator

Operator

Helper

Helper

Helper

Helper

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Executive

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

1.11

Section Wise Manpower ( Production & QA Section):

Page 9 of 88

Section

Total Man Power

Ball Warping
Dyeing

60
64

LCB
Sizing

63
27

Weaving
Finishing

200
63

Inspection
Lab

54
16

R&D
Planning

17
4

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

Chapter-2:Sequence of Operation & Raw Material


2.1

Sequence of Operation at Envoy Textiles Ltd :


Sample analysis at R&D department

Production planning

Ball Warping

Rope Dyeing

LCB

Sizing

Weaving

Finishing

Inspection

Dispatch

Page 10 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

2.2

Raw Material at Envoy Textiles Ltd.:

2.2.1

Denim Yarn:

This section has detailed description about the yarn that is usually used by Envoy Textiles
Ltd. for manufacturing high quality denim fabrics. The spinning method of denim yarn is also
described shortly.

2.2.2 Common Yarn Size For Denim:


Warp yarns for bottom weight jeans typically range in size from Ne 4.0 to Ne 12.5/1. Finer
yarns are used for lighter weight chambray shirting fabrics and lighter weight jeans, vests,
dresses, and skirts. These yarns may range in count from Ne 12.5 to Ne 30.0.

2.2.2 Yarn Spinning Systems:


Before the late 1970s, all denim yarns were ring spun. Today, denim fabrics have different
combinations of ring and open-end yarns. The term ring/ring, open end /open end
(OE/OE), and ring/OE, it is referring to which yarn is in the warp and which yarn is in the
filling, respectively. For example, ring/OE indicates a ring-spun warp yarn and an open-end
filling yarn. Weaving a combination of ring-spun and open-end yarns can help to reduce
fabric costs while still maintaining some favorable ring-spun fabric characteristics.

2.3

Specialty Yarn:

2.3.1

Structured Denim Yarns

Modern ring-spinning frames and open-end machines can be installed with devices that can
manufacture predetermined yarn effects. These effects can vary from slubs (thick places)
with different lengths, different spacing between slubs, or variations in the yarn count.
Using these devices, OE yarns can have a more ring-spun like appearance, and ring-spun
yarns can have an increased rough or antiqued quality. Yarn spinners can design patterns
and effects specific to their needs, which can be downloaded into the machines electronic
control system.

Page 11 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

2.3.2 Elastic Denim Yarns:


Core-spun yarns are produced conventionally on ring-spinning machines by introducing a
spandex filament at the back of the front drafting roll of the machine. The drafted cotton
fibers twist around the spandex core to produce an elastic ring-spun type yarn. There are
also open-end and air-jet spinning machines that have been adapted to produce core-spun
yarns. The core filament yarn (normally spandex) is inserted through the rotor shaft on OE
frame or the spindle of the air-jet frame, and the cotton fiber wraps around the spandex
filament during the process of spinning. The yarn is somewhat similar to the ring core-spun
yarns in terms of yarn and fabric characteristics. Open-end and air-jet core-spun yarns have
fewer knots and splices as compared to ring core-spun yarns.

Page 12 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

2.4

Yarn Supplier Name & Origin:

2.4.1

Cotton Yarn Supplier:

No.
01
02
03
04
05
06
07
08
09
10
11
12
13
14
15

Supplier
NRG Spinning Ltd.
Salek Spinning Ltd.
Square Spinning Ltd.
Badsha Textile Ltd.
Gulsan Spinning Ltd.
Jamuna Spinning Ltd.
Nahar Spinning Ltd.
Purbani Spinning Ltd.
Sinha Spinning Ltd.
QUETT A Spinning Ltd.
Sel Manufacturing
Suprim Spinning Ltd.
Trident Ltd.
VORDAHAMAN Spinning Ltd.
Din-TEX

Origin
Bangladesh
Bangladesh
Bangladesh
Bangladesh
Bangladesh
Bangladesh
Bangladesh
Bangladesh
Bangladesh
India
India
India
India
India
Pakistan

2.4.2 Polyester Yarn Supplier:


No.
01
02
03
04

Supplier
Shaoxing Bowarn
Zheijang
Modern Poly Industries
AA Synthetic

Origin
China
China
Bangladesh
Bangladesh

05

Reliance

India

Page 13 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

Chapter 3 : Ball Warping


3.1

Warping:

Warping is the process of transferring multiple yarns from individual yarn packages onto a
single package assembly. Normally, yarns are collected in a sheet form where the yarns lie
parallel to each other and in the same plane onto a beam, which is a cylindrical barrel with
side flanges. This is known as beam warping.

3.2

Ball Warping:

In ball warping 250 to 500 yarn ends are


pulled from the creel. The yarns then pass
through a comb-like device (sometimes called
a hack or reed), which keeps each warp yarn
separate and parallel to its neighboring ends.
At intervals of every 1000 or 2000 yards (or
meters), a lease string is placed across the
sheet of warp yarns to aid yarn separation for
the re-beaming operation, which will occur
later. The yarns then go through a funnelshaped device called a trumpet or condenser,
which collapses and condenses the sheet of
yarn into rope form. This device is located at
the base of the warper head and traverses
back and forth, guiding the newly formed
rope of yarn onto a log. The rope must be
wound at a constant tension to keep the yarns
from tangling.
Figure: Ball-Warping (Rope)

3.3

Working Procedure of Ball Warping :

Page 14 of 88

Settings of warping program according to plan.


Collection of yarn from store as per program.
Powering of machines in presence of electric engineer.
Settings of parameter as per the counting of yarn.

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

Loading of yarn into machine.


Passing of individual strands of yarn through tension device to
complete read denting.
Accumulating yarn into rope form for passing over the tension
stand and guide roller and into the head stroke trumpet.
Setting of empty ball in the head stroke and setting of safety
guard.
Cleaning of machines before starting
Starting the machine slowly at first and necessary speeds at
later
Checking the tension of the yarn by tension meter
Cutting the ball after completing length as per program
Completing of one set after completing 12 balls.
Suitable for dyeing.

Figure: Top & Side view of Ball Warping Machine

Figure: Ball for Rope Dyeing

Page 15 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

3.4

Description of Ball Warping Machine :

M/C
No.

Manufacturer

Country of
Origin

M/C type

Creel
Capacity

Stop Motion

GRIFFIN

USA

456

GRIFFIN

USA

456

Electrical
sensor
Drop wire

GRIFFIN

USA

456

Drop wire

MORRISON

USA

Auto
tension m/c
Gram
tension m/c
Gram
tension m/c
Auto
tension m/c

528

Electrical
sensor

3.5

Tension, Ball force & Speed for Gram Tension for Manual Machine:
Count

Tension

6/1 Ne, 7/1 Ne


9/1 Ne,10/1 Ne
12/1 Ne, 16/1 Ne,
20/1 Ne

65-70 gm
60-65gm
50-55gm

3.6

Ball
force (FullEmpty)
160-320
140-300
120-280

Speed

330 mpm
300 mpm
300mpm

Tension, Ball force & Speed for Gram Tension for Automatic Machine :
Count

6/1 Ne, 7/1 Ne

Jog
Front
Run
9/1 Ne,10/1 Ne
Jog
Front
Run
12/1 Ne, 16/1 Ne, Jog
20/1 Ne
Front
Run

Page 16 of 88

Tension

87%
82%
87%
77%
72%
77%
67%
62%
67%

Ball
force
(Full- Empty)
160-320

Speed

350 mpm

330 mpm

140-300

350 mpm

330 mpm

120-280

350mpm

330mpm

For OE

For Slub

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

3.7

Types of Creels :
Traveling Package Creels:

These are V-shaped creels with the actively running yarn packages on the outside of the V
and the full yarn packages placed on the inside of the V. When the running packages are
depleted, the yarn spindles on the creel are rotated so that the empty packages move to the
inside of the V-creel for replenishment. The full packages move to the outside of the creel.
The new yarn ends have to be pulled forward and threaded properly in the machine before
running the next warp. The empty package positions are then replaced with new full
packages while the warper is running. This eliminates lost time in creeling up new yarn
packages.
Magazine Creels :
These are straight-line creels with enough spindles so that each end-running has a reserve
yarn package placed beside of it. The tail end of the running package is tied to the beginning
end of the reserve package. Once the running package is depleted, the yarn transfers over
to the reserve package and the warper continue to run. This is a random method of creeling
yarn packages compared to block creeling normally used on traveling package creels.

Figure: Ball Warping machine

Page 17 of 88

Figure: Magazine Creel

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

3.8 Calculation for Ball Warping :


If ,
Ratio of warp ends in a order : 4 oe : 4 rs : 4 oe (9 Ne:12 Ne: 7 Ne)
Total ends : 4656
Ratio : 2.5
Set Length : 5340 m
Required yarn for this order = ?
Solution :
Sum of the ratio : 4+4+4 =12
No. of ends per Rope = 4656/ 12
=388
Total No. of Rope = 2.5 * 12 = 30
Quantity meters = 5340*2.5 = 13350 meters = 14600 yds
So, Amount of 9 Ne oe yarn= (14600* 1552)/(9*840)
=2997.24 lbs = 1359.54 kg
Amount of 12 Ne rs yarn= (14600*1552)/ (12*840)
=2247 lbs =1019.65 kg
Amount of 7 Ne oe yarn = (14600*1552)/(7*840)
= 3853.60 lbs = 1747.98 kg
So, Total weight of yarn = 1359.54 +1019.65+1747.98
= 4137.17 kg

Page 18 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

Chapter -4: Rope Dyeing


4.1

Denim Dyeing:

Denim is a rugged cotton twill textile, in which the weft passes under two or more warp
threads. This twill weaving produces the familiar diagonal ribbing of the fabric, which
distinguishes denim from cotton duck. It is characteristic of any indigo denim that only the
warp threads are dyed, whereas the weft threads remain plain white. As a result of the
warp-faced twill weaving, one side of the fabric shows the blue warp threads, the other side
shows the white weft threads. This is why jeans are white from the inside and what makes
their fading characteristics so unique compared to every other fabric.
There have two type of denim dyeing:
1. CONTINUOUS SLASHER DYEING
2. INDIGO ROPE DYEING PROCESS
In Envoy Textiles Ltd Rope Dyeing Technology is used.

4.2

Rope Dyeing:

The indigo Rope Dyeing Technology for denim production is considered a superior dyeing
technology, where better uniformity of dyeing is achieved than other indigo dyeing
technologies like slasher dyeing. Indigo rope dyeing was started at U S A . Today rope dyeing
accounts for a large percentage of warp yarn dyed for denim production. The system offers
highest production, due to continuous process as there is no stoppage for set change .In this
dyeing method, maximum continuity of shades and minimum danger to centre to selvedge
shade variation can be achieved.

Page 19 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

4.3

Process Flow Chart of Rope Dyeing :


Ball Creel

Draw nip

Mercerization Bath

Wash Bath (1 & 2)

Dye Bath
( 1-8; depends on shade)

Steaming (for sulphur black)

Wash Bath (3- 6)


(Bath 6 contain few amount softener)

Dry Cylinder (1-36)

Coiler

Page 20 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

4.4

Dyestuff Speciation:

Generally two types of dye stuff are used to produce the desired shades. As Indigo dyes
Sulphur dyes

4.4.1

Indigo Dyeing :

Indigo blue dye (vat dye) is not soluble in water in normal condition. To make water soluble,
reduction is done by using reducing agent. Reducing agent: sodium hydro sulphite (Na 2S 2O4)
(trade name - Hydrose) .

4.4.2

Sulphur Dyeing :

In 1893 the chemist Vidol make a reaction of sodium sulphide and sulphur with organic
base (paraphenyl- enediamine or paramino phenol) and produce Vidol black. This is known as
sulpherdye stuff. To develop the Black color Vidol black is oxidized by potassium di chromate
on the cloth surface during dyeing.
Properties:
It is cheap in price.
Wet fastness is good but light fastness is not so good.
It is insoluble in water. But reacting with Na2S (reducing agent) it produce
Thiol which is water soluble.
Shades that are processed at Envoy Textiles Ltd .:
Regular Indigo
Black
Topping(Indigo then black)
Bottoming (Black then indigo)

Page 21 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

4.5

Machine Description :
Name of the Machine: Morrison rope dyeing machine
Country of origin: U.S.A

4.6

Technical Data about Machine:


Total no of ropes: 30
Total no of box: 15
Creel capacity: 30
Maximum Nip Pressure: 5 Ton & 10 Ton
Roller Hardness :
For 5 Ton Roller: 65 deg. shores.
For 10 Ton Roller: 75 deg. shores.
Dye Bath Volume: 3000 liter
Total No. of Drying Cylinder: 36
Dry stack cylinder air pressure: 0-20kg/cm2
Dry stack cylinder moisture content : 0-20%
Water consumption :50000-55000 L/hour

Figure: Rope Dyeing Process Flowchart (Morrison)

Page 22 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

4.7

Chemical Preparation Procedure :


Indigo Preparation :

Chemical name

Amount (kg)

Indigo

350 kg

Caustic

250 kg

Sodium Hydrosulphite

350 kg

Sequestering agent

5 kg

Dispersing agent

14 kg

Wetting agent

17 kg

Total volume

3500 Liter

Mercerization Bath Liquor :


Chemical Name
Caustic Soda
Sequestering Agent
Wetting Agent
Total volume

Amount (kg)
90 kg
6 kg
20 kg
3000 liter

Hydrosulphite :
Chemical Name
Sodium Hydrosulphite
Caustic
Total volume

Amount (kg)
30 kg
Depends on required PH
200 Liter

Caustic Soda Solution:


Concentration
Double
Single

Page 23 of 88

Amount
150 kg
75 kg

Volume
600 liter
600 liter

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

Softener :
Chemical Name
Softener
Carboxylic acid
Total volume

Fig: Chemical Preparation Tank

Fig: Wash Bath

Page 24 of 88

Amount (kg)
70 kg
10 kg
1000 liter

Fig: Mercerization Bath

Fig: Dye Bath

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

4.8

Flow Chart for Different Shade:

For Topping
Ball creel (Rope)

For Bottoming
Ball creel (Rope)

For Indigo
Ball creel (Rope)

For Black
Ball creel (Rope)

Mercerization
Bath(Temp-30o C )

Bottoming(Black,
Brown etc)(Temp-85o
C)

Mercerization
Bath(Temp-30oC )

Mercerization
Bath(Temp-30oC )

Wash Box (1& 2;


normal wash)

Wash Box (1& 2;


normal wash)

Indigo Dye Box (1 -8;


depends on shade
depth)

Black Dye Box (Box


No-8)

Wash Box (1& 2;


normal wash)

Indigo Dye Box (1 -6;


depends on shade
depth)

Wash Box (1& 2;


normal wash)

Indigo Dye Box (1 -8;


depends on shade
depth)

Washing (Dye Box


no.-7)
Black Dye Box( Box
No.-8)

Wash Box( 3-6; Box


No. -6 contain
softener & carboxylic
acid )

Wash Box( 3-6; Box


no. -6 contain
softener & carboxylic
acid )

Drying Cylinder (1 36)

Wash Box( 3-6; Box


no. -6 contain
softener & carboxylic
acid )

Drying Cylinder (1 36)

Steamer (Temp-110o
C)

Wash Box( 3-6; Box


no. -6 contain
softener & carboxylic
acid )

Coiler

Drying Cylinder (1 36)

Rope Can

Coiler

Coiler
Drying Cylinder (1 36)
Rope Can
Coiler

Rope Can

Page 25 of 88

Rope Can

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

4.9

Chemical Name & Function:

No.

Chemical Name

Function

Caustic Soda

Removes fat and wax by the action of soapanification.


Mercerize the cotton fiber as a result the amorphous
region is converted to crystalline region , so the
lusterand absorbency of cotton is increased .

Wetting Agent

It emulsify the waxes in the grey cotton and to ensure


the satisfactory penetration of dye liquor into the
substrate.
Used to remove the hardness of water ,makes the
water soft.

Sequestering Agent

Reducing Agents

Indigo dyes are not soluble in water . Sodium


Hydrosulphite is used to reduce the indigo converted at
leucoform .

Dispersing Agent

Used to resist the aggregation of Indigo dyes .

Softener

It helps to open the yarn from during long chain beamer


section.

Carboxylic acid

During mercerization and dyeing process the PH of yarn


increased , carboxylic acid decrease the PH (6.5-7.5)

Fixing agent

Glucose (dextrose
monohydrate)

Page 26 of 88

Helps to the fixation of sulphur black dyes

Used to soluble the sulphurblack dyes in water.

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

4.10

Chemical Brand Name , Supplier & Origin:

1.Reducing Agent :
Brand Name
Reducing Agent DP
Diresul Antioxident
Hydrosulphit Conz.

Manufacturer
Clariant
Clariant
BASF

Origin
Indonesia
Spain
Germany

Manufacturer
Clariant
BASF
BASF
Bangapoo chemicals co.ltd

Origin
Spain
Germany
Germany
Thailand

Manufacturer
TRITONGGAL Multichem.
E K Soy Chemicals

Origin
Indonesia
Turkey

2. Wetting Agent :
Brand Name
Hostapol EH Liquid
Leophen M C
Primasol N F
Permagen NFS

3. Sequestering Agent:
Brand Name
DEN-PERSE-PT
Anticil Conz.

4. Caustic Soda:
Brand Name
Caustic Soda

Origin
China, India, Saudia Arabia, Local etc.

5. Softener:
Brand Name
Overwax DE
Edunine XL-NT
Belfasin GT

Manufacturer
Lamberti
Corda-chemicals
Pulcra chemicals

Origin
Asia pacific
India
Turkey

Manufacturer
Clariant
Clariant

Origin
Spain
Spain

6. Fixing Agent :
Brand Name
Diresul Oxident
Direfix SD
Page 27 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

7. Dispersing Agent :
Brand Name
Setamol WS

Manufacturer
BASF

Origin
Germany

Manufacturer
BASF

Origin
Germany

8. Carboxylic Acid
Brand Name
Carboxylic Acid

9. Dyes:
Brand Name

Manufacturer

Origin

Diresul Black RDT D Liquid

Clariant

Spain

Diresul Brilliant Green RDT H


Liquid

Clariant

Spain

Diresul Brown RDT GS Liquid

Clariant

Spain

Diresul Red RDT BG Liquid

Clariant

Spain

Diresul Indigo RDT B Liquid

Clariant

Spain

Diresul Yellow

Clariant

Spain

Liquid Indigo

BASF

Singapore / China

Apsul Black RF

Oxford Technology

Taiwan

Powder Black

AAA Brand

China

Sulphol Liquid Black- B

Bhanu Dyes PVT. Ltd.

India

Indigo

Liyang Skyblue/ Wonderful

China

Page 28 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

4.11

Process Control Parameter for Rope Dyeing:


Concentration of Hydrosulphite:

It is measured by vatometer. It should be from 1.5 gpl to 2.5gpl , or by redox potential of


dye bath which should be from -730 mV to -860 mV.
Caustic Soda or pH value :
Should be from 11.5-12.5
Dye concentration in Dye bath :
It is measured by spectrophotometer. It should be in g/l
Guidelines :
High Indigo Concentration --> Shade is greener and lighter
Low Indigo Concentration --> Shade is dull and Red.
High pH or Caustic Concentration --> Redder and lighter
Low pH or caustic concentration --> greener and darker
Dipping Time :
Longer the dipping time, better will be the penetration and lesser will be the ring dyeing
effect. It varies from 15-22 seconds.
Squeeze Pressure :
High pressure will lead to lower wet pick up and result in lesser color and better
penetration. At rope dyeing, squeeze pressure is 5-10 tones, i.e. Wet pick up is as low as
60%. Hardness of squeeze roller is about 70-75 deg. shores. It squeeze rolls are too hard
then there are chances of slippage and uneven yarn tension. If squeeze rollers are too soft
then shading will occur. Surface of the squeeze rolls should be ground twice a year.
Airing Time :
It should be 60-75 seconds. Longer airing time results in high tension on the yarn and
subsequent processes will become difficult.
Drying :
Insufficient or unevenly dried yarns will result in poor re-beaming
Page 29 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

Effect of pH :
At pH of 10.5 to 11.5, there will be formation of more monophenolate ions, which lead to
higher color yield, as strike rate of the dye to the yarn bundle is very high, and wash down
activities will be very good. At pH higher than this, dye penetration will be less and wash
down characteristics are also poor.

4.12

Quality Assurance Equipments/ Laboratory Equipments :

A.Brand Name

: Metrohm

Model

: 877 Titrino Plus

Origin

: Switzerland

Use
agent .

: Test GPL of Indigo & Hydro& measure Redox Potential for Reducing

B.Brand Name

: Metrohm

Model

: 794 Basic Titrino

Origin

: Switzerland

Use

: Used to check PH

C.Brand Name

: HACH LANG

Model

: LICO 500

Origin

: Germany

Use

: Used to check GPL for Black dye bath

Fig: Metrohm

Page 30 of 88

Fig: Spectrophotometer

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

4.13

Effect of Mechanical Parameters on Dyeing :

1.The number of rollers :


High number of roller = high exchange of dyestuff
= low exchange of bath concentration
Small roller diameter =low dyestuff exchange
= bad material guiding
2. Immersion time :
Long Immersion time = high dyestuff exchange
Short Immersion time = low dyestuff exchange
3.Immursion liquor and intermediate pair of squeeze roller :
With squeezing = high dyestuff exchange
Without squeezing = low dyestuff exchange
4. Dyeing speed :
High speed = high dyestuff exchange
Low speed = low dyestuff exchange
5.Flow profile :
High liquor flow = high dyestuff exchange
Low liquor flow = low dyestuff exchange

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Envoy Textiles Ltd.

Chapter -5: L C B
5.1

Long Chain Beamer :

After the rope dyeing of warp yarn in denim production, the next operation is the Long
Chain Beamer (LCB). When the rope has been dyed and dried in the rope dyeing range, it is
taken in large cans in coiler section. In rope dyeing range, if the machine has a capacity 24
ropes, then there will be 24 separate coilers which delivers 24 ropes in separate cans. These
cans are transferred to the Long Chain Beaming area. The basic purpose of long chain
beamer is to open the rope into a sheet form of yarn and wind onto a warper beam which in
turn transferred to the sizing machine.
In Long Chain Beamer, the yarn alignment in the dyed rope is change from a rope form to a
sheet form. In the Long Chain Beamer the rope pull from the can by moving them upward to
a guiding device. The guiding device is mounted above the can, probably in the ceiling. The
upward movement of the rope allows the ropes to untangle before nearing the beamer
head and allow the rope to shake loose form from the rest of the rope in the can.

5.2

Purpose of Long chain Beamer :


The alignment of dyed rope converted to a uniform sheet form .
Prepare the yarn for sizing.

5.3

Working Procedure of L C B:

Page 32 of 88

Accepting the can and processing sit from the dyeing department.
Powering the machine in the presence of electric engineer.
Setting of the parameter as per count.
Setting the can under accumulator.
Entering the yarn through accumulator and tension stand to complete read
denting of head stoke.
Cleaning the machine.
Setting an empty beam on the machine.
Starting the machine slowly at first and necessary speeds later.
Putting down the beam after completing program length.
Completing 1set after completing 12 beams.
Suitable for sizing.

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

Figure: Passage of LCB

5.4

5.5

Machine Description :
M/C No.

Manufacturer

Origin

Reed Capacity

01-08
09 & 10

GRIFFIN
MORRISON

USA
USA

480
520

Tension and speed for GRIFFIN machine as yarn count :


Count (Ne)
6
7
9 & 10
12
16
20

5.6

Tension (gm/end)
80-85
75-80
68-73
60-65
50-55
45-50

Speed(m/min)
180-200
200
200-230
200-230
160-180
150-160

Tension and speed for MORRISON machine as yarn count :


Count (Ne)
6
7
9 & 10
12
16
20

Page 33 of 88

Tension (gm/end)
33/38
30/35
23/28
20/25
17/22
15/20

Speed(m/min)
160/180
200
200/250
200/250
160/200
150/170

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

5.7

Different Unit Image of L C B Machine:

Fig: Tension Control Denser

Fig: Tension Stand

Figure: L C B Floor

Page 34 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

Chapter-6: Sizing
6.1

Sizing:

The main purpose for sizing warp yarns is to encapsulate the yarn with a protective coating.
This protective coating reduces yarn abrasion that takes place during the weaving operation
and reduces yarn hairiness preventing adjacent yarns from entangling with one another at
the weaving machine. Also, this protective coating keeps the indigo dye from rubbing off
during the weaving process. For many years, native starches or slightly modified starches
with corresponding binders were regarded as the most economical way to size indigo warps.
At the back end of the slasher range, the section beams from the beaming process are creeled.
The yarns from each beam will be pulled over and combined with the yarns from the other
beams to form multiple sheets of yarns, the number of sheets corresponding to the number of
size boxes (size applicators) on the machine.
As each yarn sheet enters a size box , the yarns are guided downward and submerged in the
liquid size. The yarn sheet leaves the size box via a set of squeeze rolls that helps control the wet
pick-up, which influences the amount of size added onto the yarn and controls the amount of
penetration of the size into the yarn. After this, the yarns are pulled over steam-heated, Teflon
coated cans or cylinders where drying takes place. At this point, the yarns are not totally dry, but
are monitored to maintain from 6-8% moisture typically. Most warp yarns for weaving denim
have 7-14% size add-on
(actual dry solids weight added to the original weight of the yarn).
This depends on what type of spinning system is used. Too much size causes yarn chaffing and
excessive shedding of size particles at the weaving machine, and too little size causes excessive
yarn abrasion resulting in dye streaks, clinging, broken and entangled ends resulting

Fig: Inner View Of Size Box

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Envoy Textiles Ltd.

in low weaving efficiencies. In many


denim styles, the size is left on the
fabric and acts as a stiffening agent
for cut-and-sew operations. This
accounts for the stiffness of certain
jeans, which are purchased by the
consumer.
All the yarns go through a set of
stainless steel split rods, which help
to separate them into individual
sheets, equivalent to the number of
section beams in the creel. This
ensures that yarns from one sheet
are adhering to yarns from another
sheet. After passing through the
split rods, the warp yarns are
collected into one single sheet and
passed through a comb, which helps
to separate individual yarns. This
expansion type of comb is adjusted
to the desired loom beam width. At
this point, all the warp yarns are
wound onto the loom beam .
Normally, several loom beams will
be produced from a single set of
section beams in the slasher creel .

6.2

Fig: Size Box

Description of Sizing machine:


Manufacturer
Griffin
UKIL Machinery

6.3
6.1

Origin
USA
Korea

Common
Sizing
: :
CommonRecipe
Recipeforfor
Sizing

Page 36 of 88

Chemical Name

Amount

Modified starch
QSPR
Binder

100 kg
10 kg
07 kg

Softener (wax)
Water

03 kg
1300 L

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

6.4

Tension in Sizing Process:


Count
Creel tension
Squeeze tension
Lease
Beam
Pressure roller

6.5

7,9&12 Ne
33-35 gm/ends
30-33 gm/ends
76-80 gm/ends
80-84 gm/ends
70-75 gm/ends

16 & 20 Ne
22-28 gm/ends
28-30 gm/ends
50 gm/ends
55 gm/ends
45 gm/ends

Process Control Parameter :


For courser count ,Cylinder Temperature : High
For finer count ,Cylinder Temperature : Low
For courser count ,Squeeze roller pressure : High
For finer count , Squeeze roller pressure: Low

6.6

Sizing Equation :
Size Pick up %=
Sized yarn count :

Page 37 of 88

100 %

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

6.7

Image Of Different Machine Parts:

Fig: Creel Section

Fig: Lease Road

Figure: Head stock

Page 38 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

Chapter-7: Weaving
7.1

Weaving:

The process of interlacing warp yarn with the inserted weft yarn in a definite order to form a
fabric suitable for use as a dress material or industrial purpose is called weaving. The
matching used for this purpose is called loom. Denim clothing never goes out of style. It's
attractive and durable, perfect for most casual occasions. Denim is most common as the
fabric in jeans, but is also used for shirts, jackets, skirts, dresses, hats, handbags and more.
Several different types of denim fabric are available depending on the function and look
people are after.
The weaving process interlaces the warp, which are the length-wise indigo dyed yarn and
the filling, which are the natural-colored cross-wise yarn. The warp thread is in the form of
sheet. The weft thread is inserted between two layers of warp sheets by means of a suitable
carrier, such as shuttle, projectile, rapier, air current, water current, etc.

7.2

Structure of Denim Fabrics:

Denim fabrics are woven by interlacing two sets of yarns perpendicular to one another in
fabric form. Yarns in the machine direction are called warp yarns or warp ends, and these
are interlaced with filling yarns or picks. The sequence or order of interlacing the two sets of
yarns can be varied to produce many different weave designs.
The finished fabric construction is determined by the number of warp and filling yarns per
square inch or centimeter. For example, a typical construction for denim may be 62 x 38.
This is interpreted as 62 warp yarns per inch of width and 38 filling yarns per inch of length
and always in that order. This thread count along with the yarn counts used will influence
fabric properties such as weight, fabric tightness, cover, drape, hand, tensile strength, tear
strength, and other fabric properties.

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Envoy Textiles Ltd.

7.3

Yarn Twist Direction and Twill Line Direction:

For a more pronounced twill line in a denim fabric, the direction of twist in the warp yarn
should be opposite to the twill direction in the fabric. For example, if Z twisted yarn is
woven into a right-hand twill, the twill line is less pronounced. If S twisted yarn is woven
into the same fabric, then the twill line is more pronounced.

Fig: S & Z Twist Direction

Fig: Right & Left Hand Twill Direction

It must be remembered that only Z-twist yarns are formed in open-end yarns, while ringspun yarns have either Z or S. For that reason, open-end yarn can be used in left-hand twills
when a more pronounced twill line is desirable. Having the twist direction opposite from the
twill line direction also tends to make the fabric hand a little softer.

7.4

Non-conventional Denim Fabric Constructions:

Indigo-dyed yarns have been woven in plain weaves known as chambray, oxfords, baskets,
herringbones, bedford cords, and combinations of 3/1 and 1/3 twills. Jacquard designs and
dobby weaves have also been incorporated into denim designs to produce new looks and
textures. As fashion designers create new ideas, the fabric manufacturers have to follow the
demands of marketing teams and market leaders.

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Envoy Textiles Ltd.

7.5

Flowchart of weaving process:


Warp beam

Drawing-in

Denting

Tying-in (knotting)

Weft insertion

Grey fabric

7.6

Drawing-in & Tying-in of Warp Yarns:

When a new denim style is put on a weaving machine, it is necessary to draw (thread or
insert) the warp yarns through various elements as in including stop motion devices (drop
wires), weave design control devices (harnesses and heddles), and filling beat-up devices
(reed). Each end of yarn must have its own individual element. This procedure can be done
manually or automatically on drawing-in machines. When producing the same style and
when the current loom beam is nearly empty of yarn, an identical full beam of yarn can be
tied to the yarns of the old beam. This is done by a tying-in machine, which automatically
selects an end of yarn from the old beam and ties it to the appropriate end on the new
beam. The knots are then pulled through the weaving machine before fabric is put into
production. It is well documented that many loom stops are caused by improper tying-in of
the warp yarns.

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Envoy Textiles Ltd.

Figure: Drawing-in

7.7

Figure: Automatic Tying-in Machine

Yarn Flow in Weaving:

Warp yarns as seen in Figure are fed from the loom beam and pass over a whip roll or
rollers, which control yarn tension variations during weaving motions. The yarns are then
directed through drop wires, heddles, and a comb-like device called a reed. The spaces
between the reed wires across the width of the reed are called dents.

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Envoy Textiles Ltd.

Each reed has a certain number of dents per inch with 12 to 18 being the most common for
denim and denim-type fabrics. There are normally four warp yarns drawn per dent in
standard 3/1 twill denim fabrics. The heddles, through which the yarn is threaded, are
located in harness frames with a designed number of warp yarns drawn through each
harness. All warp yarns weaving alike in a design repeat occupy a given harness. The reed
establishes the width of the warp yarn sheet and equal spacing of the yarns before weaving.
It also is the mechanism used for pushing (beating-up) each inserted filling yarn (pick) into
the body of the fabric at the fell of the cloth. The fell is the point where yarns become
fabric. At this point, the warp yarn is in fabric form and ready to be collected on a cloth roll.
Some machines have inspection stands that are back lighted for easy inspection of the fabric
as it is woven before cloth roll take-up. The flow of the filling yarn is somewhat simpler. The
filling yarn is fed from large packages located outside of the actual weaving machine. The yarn
comes off the package or packages and is wound onto a storage feeder that allows the yarn to
be under consistent tension for each pick insertion. The yarn is then introduced to the filling
insertion mechanism and inserted across the separated warp yarns, which have formed a tunnel
or path called a weave shed.

7.8

General Scheme diagram of a Weaving Machine:

Figure : General Scheme diagram of a Weaving Machine


In figure1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.

Warp beam
Back rest roller
Drop wires
Motor driving the warp let-off
Heald frame
Motor driving the fabric takedown
Reed
Take down roller
Cloth beam

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Envoy Textiles Ltd.

7.9

Loom Motion:

Each and every machine has some certain movements or motions. A weaving is distinguished
from other machines by its specific movements or motions. These motions are divided into
two categories as follows:
Primary motion
Secondary motion
Auxiliary motions.

7.10

Primary motion:

Primary, essential or fundamental are designed to those motions or movements of


weaving in absence of any of them weaving are not practicable. These are fundamental or
essential mechanisms. Without these mechanisms, it is practically impossible to produce a
fabric. It is for this reason that these mechanisms are called primary mechanisms. The
primary mechanisms are three in number.
1. Shedding
2. Picking
3. Beating
1. Shedding:
It is the name given to the motion which
moves the heald frames up and down in order
to separate the warp sheet into two layers and
create a triangle in front of the reed (referred
to as the shed) through which the weft can be
passed.

Figure: shedding

2.Picking:
It is the means by which the weft is
projected through the shed. This was
traditionally by shuttle, but more recently it
is done by projectile, air jet or water jet.

Figure : Picking

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Envoy Textiles Ltd.

3. Beating:
It is where the reed pushes the weft into
the fell of the cloth to form fabric. This
requires considerable called beating up.
The above mentioned three primary
motions of a loom i.e. shedding, picking,
beating is performed in a cyclic order and
the fabric is produced. Then the fabric is
passed over the front rail and wound of the
cloth roller.

7.11

Figure: Beating

Secondary Motion:

These mechanisms are next in importance to the primary mechanisms. If weaving is to be


continuous, these mechanisms are essential. So they are called the secondary mechanisms.
They are:
A. Take-up motion
B. Let-off motion.
A. Take-up motion:
The take-up motion withdraws the cloth from the weaving area at a constant rate so as to give
the required pick-spacing (in picks/inch or picks/cm) and then winds it on to a cloth roller.
B. Let-off motion:
The let-off motion delivers the warp to the weaving area at the required rate and at constant
tension by unwinding it from the weavers beam. The secondary motions are carried out
simultaneously.

7.12

Auxiliary Mechanisms:

To get high productivity and good quality of fabric, additional mechanisms, called auxiliary
mechanisms, are added to a power loom. The auxiliary mechanisms are useful but not
absolutely essential. This is why they are called the auxiliary mechanisms. These are listed
below.
Warp protector mechanism
Weft stop motion
Temples
Page 45 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

Brake
Warp stop motion (Predominantly found in automatic looms)

A. Warp protector mechanism:


The warp protector mechanism will stop the loom if the shuttle/weft inserting element gets
trapped between the top and bottom layers of the shed. It thus prevents excessive damage
to the warp threads, reed wires and shuttle.
B. Weft stop motion:
The object of the weft stop motion is to stop the loom when a weft thread breaks or gets
exhausted. This motion helps to avoid cracks in a fabric.
C. Temples:
The function of the temples is to grip the cloth and hold it at the same width as the warp in
the reed, before it is taken up.
D. Brake:
The brake stops the loom immediately whenever required. The weaver uses it to stop the
loom to repair broken ends and picks.
E. Warp stop motion:
The object of the warp stop motion is to stop the loom immediately when a warp thread
breaks during the weaving process.

7.13

Type of Motion at Envoy Textile Ltd :

Primary motions:
Shedding mechanism- Cam shedding
Picking mechanism- Dewas system for rapier and filling insertion by air pressure.
Beat up mechanism- Cam mechanism.
Secondary motions:
Take up mechanism- Electrical
Let of mechanism- Electrical ( individual motor)
Tertiary motion:
Temple Ring temple
Batching motion - Individual motor drive controlled by machine drive

Page 46 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

7.14

Different Machine Parts Of Air-jet Loom:

Pre-winder:
The pre-winder wind the turn onto their
drum and ensure fault free delivery .
Opto-electronic sensor monitor the length of
yarn on the drum . The per-winder is
monitor and synchronized with the machine
through microprocessor which enables the
pre-winder to quickly adjust to the cloth
width.

Balloon-Breaker:
The air jet loom for denim weaving is
equipped with Balloon-Breaker which reduce
the weft tension due to ballooning. This also
reduces the energy required for weft
insertion for coarse count yarn and ensures
faster flight of the weft yarn, less air
consumption and higher speed.

Main nozzle:
The main nozzle is mounted in a fixed position on
the reed holder and move along with it.

Page 47 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

Auxiliary Main Nozzle:


For coarse filling yarn insertion, an auxiliary
main nozzle/booster /tandem nozzle is located
between the pre winder and the main nozzle .
The auxiliary main nozzle pulls the filling yarn
form the pre -winder drum delivers it to the
main nozzle. It helps to insert coarser weft
with less pressure.

Filling Detector :
The air jet loom are incorporated with double
filling stop motion devices which monitor the
arrival of filling at the receiving side and also
stop the machine at the of filling breakage
.Double weft detector detect the miss-pick in
the shed and filling blows off.
The first weft detector detects s the filling,
where it has reached the right side end. When
the filling yarn dose not reaches the right end
for any reason, the first detector immediately
stop the machine. The second detector
detects the broken picks.

Sub Nozzle:
Sub Nozzle is used to maintain the constant
velocity of inserted weft yarn. Its depends on
the width of loom.

Page 48 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

Profile Reed:
A profile reed for an air jet loom includes a dent having a guide recess and a lower jaw portion
located below the guide recess, and a weft yarn passage formed by a plurality of the dents
juxtaposed in the direction of weft insertion. The guide recess is formed with upper, inner
lower wall surfaces. The inner wall surface is connected with the lower wall surface through a
lower arcuate surface formed with a radius of curvature. The front end of the lower jaw portion
is defined by a lower jaw arcuate surface formed with a radius of curvature. The lower jaw
portion extends frontward for a distance between the inner wall surface and the front end of
the lower jaw portion. The distance is set at or lower than 5.0 millimeters. The sum of the radii
of curvature is smaller than the distance.

Figure: Profile Reed

Weft Brake System:


After inserting the filling yarn into the tunnel the feeder hook stopped the yarn. At the time
of stoppage of the inserted pick by the feeder hook , a high shock tension is generated by the
filling inertia.

Automatic Leveling Device:


An automatic shade leveling device situated in positive cam motion, atomically closes the shade
after a loom stoppage by leveling all the shaft. This prevents start mark in the fabric.

Selvedge Forming Device:


In Air jet loom Leno selvedge are formed. These selvedge are obtained
by binding with strong additional threads working in gauge weave and by eliminating through
cutting the protruding weft ends. In leno selvedge formation device two complete leno gauge
mechanism works in combination. A leno device produce the selvedge where other device
form the auxiliary selvedge.

Page 49 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

7.15

Weaving Machine Specification:

In Envoy Textiles Ltd. three types of weaving machine is available.

Machine type no.1:

Name of the machine: Air jet loom


Brand name: Tsudakoma
Model no.: ZAX-9100
Manufacturer mane: Tsudakoma Corporation; Japan
Machine R.P.M: 900( maximum)
Reed width: 190 cm
Weft insertion color: 2
Selvedge type: Full cross leno
Total no of machine: 112
Compressor in to main pipe-13 bar, in to machine 9 bar, actual set in to machine-6
bar.

Machine type no.2:

Name of the machine: Rapier loom


Brand name: Picanol
Model no.: Picanol Optimax-2-P
Manufacturer mane: Picanol, Belgium
Machine R.P.M: 700 ( maximum)
Reed width: 175 cm
Weft insertion color: 6
Selvedge type: Half-cross leno

Page 50 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

Total no of machine: 19

Figure: Tsudakoma Air-Jet Loom

Figure: Picanol Rapier Loom

Machine type no.3:

Name of the machine: Air jet loom


Brand name: Picanol Omni 800 Plus
Model no.: OMP-800 2-P
Manufacturer mane: Picanol, Belgium
Machine R.P.M: 1000( maximum)
Reed width: 190 cm
Weft insertion color: 2
Selvedge type: Full cross leno
Total no of machine: 1
Compressor in to main pipe-13 bar, in to machine 9 bar, actual set in to machine-6
bar.

Machine type no.4:

Name of the machine: Air jet loom


Brand name: Picanol Omni Plus Summum
Model no.: 2-P Omni Plus Summum
Manufacturer mane: Picanol, Belgium
Machine R.P.M: 1000( maximum)
Reed width: 190 cm
Weft insertion color: 4
Selvedge type: Full cross leno
Total no of machine: 64(Denim -2)
Compressor in to main pipe-13 bar, in to machine 9 bar, actual set in to machine-6
bar.

Page 51 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

Figure: Picanol Air Jet(Picanol Omni Plus Summum)

7.16

Other Machine Specification:

Leno Bobbin Winder:


Brand Name: HARUTZ
Manufacturer: Izumi International Co.
Origin: Japan
No of Machine: 01

Catch Cord Winder:


Brand Name: BRANDT
Manufacturer: F B BRANDT
Origin: Germany
No of Machine: 01

Page 52 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

Knotting Machine: TODO


Brand Name: TODO
Manufacturer: TODO Seisakusto Ltd.
Origin: Japan
No of Machine: 02

7.17

Weaving Faults:

Here I tried to introduce some fabric faults occurred in Envoy Textiles Ltd. During my internship
period.
Starting mark:
Causes:
Main cause is loom stoppage.
Remedy:
This cannot be avoided but can be controlled by starting mark setting or starting
the loom by reversing the loom.
Reed mark:
Causes:
If any fault occur at reed
Faulty denting in the reed
Remedy:
Right selection of the reed and right denting.

Page 53 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

Filling stop:
Causes:
If weft is failed to reach FD1
If weft is too long and reach FD2
Remedy:

Correct setting of the weft length


Correct setting of main nozzle
Correct setting of relay nozzle
Proper setting of air pressure
Proper setting of pre-winder
Proper setting of creel position

Snarl:
Causes:

Remedy:

Excess main nozzle pressure


Low filling tension
Main nozzle air pressure control
Correct setting of the PFT finger value

Double pick:
Causes:
Cutting problem of the cutter
Faulty setting of the air pressure
Remedy:
Cutter position is to be set correctly
Air pressure should be reset

Page 54 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

Miss pick/ broken pick:


Causes:
Excess air pressure of main nozzle
Remedy:
Main nozzle air pressure should be reduced
Warp breakage:
Causes

Remedy:

7.18

Bad sizing
Low strength of the yarn
Crossing of the warp yarn
Loose or tight yarn
Re knotting
Proper sizing

Weaving Related Calculation :

CMPX :
It indicate the total breakage for 1,00,000 picks.
If,
Fabric construction is =

Warp Breakage =3
Cloth woven

= 63 m

So,

= 2.47

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Envoy Textiles Ltd.

It is similar for weft cmpx calculation.

Width Shrinkage :

If, Reed width = 69 inch


Actual width = 65 inch

=5.79 %

Production calculation :

Production =
If,

Fabric construction is =

RPM

= 750

Production =
= 14.54 Inch/min
= 0.3693 m/min
=22.15 m/hour
=177.27 m/shift

Page 56 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

Chapter-8: Finishing
Finishing of grey denim fabric normally carried out after weaving. It takes an important role in
fabric properties, appearance, softness and residual fabric shrinkage. The finishing of denim
fabric is carried out for several purposes. Finishing of denim fabric can be varied according to
the specific requirement of customer. The finishing process may vary from harsh hand (loom
state), soft hand (de-sizing) and sulphur over dyeing.

8.1

Challenges in Denim Fabric Finishing:


Control of shrinkage between fabric rolls and within rolls is more difficult than with
other fabrics.
The heavy weight, twill denim construction is dimensionally unstable after weaving.
Denim has high shrinkage after weaving, which requires very high compression (12-15%)
at Sanforizing which can be difficult.

8.2

Machine Specification:
Finishing Process

Brand Name

Origin

Sanforising

Morrison

USA

Flat Finishing

Kyoto

Japan

Skew

Bianco

Italy

Coating

Rollmac

Italy

Stenter

Harish

India

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Envoy Textiles Ltd.

8.3

Typical Finishing Line of Denim Fabric:


Input J-Box with pulling unit

Brushing and beating unit to remove dust form fabric

Singeing unit with dust suction device

Impregnation tank with squeezer

Weft skew unit and high tension compensator for width adjustment

Can dryer (Number depends on speed of line)

Clip tentering unit

Compressive rubber belt shrinkage unit

Felt calendar

Exit J-Box

Surface winder or plaiter

Page 58 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

8.4

Process Flow Chart Of Different Machine:


Morrison Wet Finish

Kyoto Flat Finish

Harish Stenter

Grey Fabric

Grey Fabric

Grey Fabric

J-Box
J-Box

J-Box
Brusher Roller

Brusher Roller

Chemical Box
Singing Burner

Singing Burner

Padder Roller
Caustic Box

Chemical Box

Skew Roller
Padder Roller

Padder Roller

Coating Knife
Stenter Chain

Skew Roller

Infeed Device
Wash Box

Drying Cylinder

Stenter Chain
Softener Box

Rubber Belt

Gas Burner(Heat Set)


Padder Roller

Palmer Unit(Calendaring unit)

Blower Fan/ Exhaust Fan


Skew Roller

Folding

Cooling Chamber
Drying Cylinder
Folding
Water Spray unit

Rubber Belt

Palmer Unit(Calendaring unit)

Folding

Page 59 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

8.5

Description Of Various Finishing Process:

8.5.1

Singeing:

Singeing is an Important as it burn the protruding fibers form the fabric surface
Singeing Parameter:
Fabric speed (m/min)
Flame intensity (mbar)
Fabric moisture content (%)
Singeing positions
Burner fabric distance (mm)

Figure: Singeing Unit

8.5.2 Sanforising:
Sanforisation is a treatment applied
to fabric to reduce cloth shrinkage
after washing. During the sanforising
process, the fibers of the cotton fabric
are stretched both in length and in
width so that cloth that is washed and
dried will not shrink much.
Figure: Sanforising Unit

Page 60 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

8.5.3 Fabric Skewness:


Woven fabrics are constructed with lengthwise
and crosswise yarns interlaced at right angles
.Skewness in woven fabric is a condition
wherethe warp and weft yarns, although straig
ht, are not at right angles to each other. Woven
fabric skewness and its measurement Skewness
creates difficulties during tailoring, sewing, and
the process of three-dimensional forming.
Garments made from skewed fabric may
behave differently on each part of the body
and, as a result, cause the fabric to lose its
shape. The problem can occur in the warping,
weaving, and finishing processes. The main
cause at any step of the finishing process is the
variation in running speed across the width of
the fabric.

Skew Measurement:

Page 61 of 88

Figure: Skew Roller

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

8.5.4 Calendering:
Calendering is a finishing process used
on cloth where fabric is folded in half
and passed under rollers at high
temperatures
and
pressures.
Calendering is used on fabrics such
as moire to produce its watered effect
and also on cambric and some types
of sateens.
In preparation for calendering, the fabric
is folded lengthwise with the front side,
or face, inside, and stitched together
along the edges. The fabric can be
folded together at full width; however
this is not done as often as it is more
difficult. The fabric is then run through
rollers that polish the surface and make
the fabric smoother and more
lustrous. High
temperatures
and
pressure are used as well. Fabrics that
go through the calendering process feel
thin, glossy and papery.

Figure: Calendering(Palmer)unit

8.5.5 Mercerization:
It is the process by which natural twist/convolutions are open by the help of concentrated alkali
under tension conditions. It is a treatment which makes the cellulose start to swell at a certain
alkali concentration.

Page 62 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

Advantages of Mercerization:
improves dye uptake up to 40%
permanent luster is obtained
improves tensile strength
dimensional stability
dead cotton coverage
less pilling effect
The advantages of mercerization are considerable. The increase in the dye uptake capacity
results in deep shades and expensive dyes savings can be achieved. Furthermore as a rule, the
color fastness and uniform appearance of goods are also improved.

8.6

Some Image of Different Machine parts:

Figure: Wash Box

Figure: In-feed Device

Page 63 of 88

Figure: Coating Spray Unit

Figure: Dry Cylinder

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

Chapter-9: Inspection
The quality of a final garment depends on the quality of a denim fabric when it is received as a
roll. Even the most outstanding manufacturing methods cannot compensate for defective
materials. Normally, 10% of the rolls received are inspected and evaluated based on a fourpoint system. This way, denim fabric related quality problems can be avoided before it is put
into production.

9.1

Four Point System:

The 4-Point System Assigns 1, 2, 3 And 4 Penalty Points According To The Size And Significance
Of The Defect. Its A Widely Recognized Inspection Method Frequently Used in The Textile
Industry. Its A Technique Issued By The American Society For Testing &Materials With
Reference To The Designation ASTMD5 430-93.

Fault length

Penalty

1-3 inch.
3-6 inch.
6-9 inch.
9-12 inch.
Than 12 inch.

1
2
3
4
4

If a defect is observed faults are classified and scored with penalty points of 1, 2, 3 and 4,
according to their size and significance. Each defect should be counted as a separate defect
even if the nature is the same and then based on the points allocated to each defect, total
points should be calculated. No more than 4 penalty points can be assigned for any single
defect. No linear yard or meter can contain more than 4 points, regardless of the number of
defects within that yard or meter. If the acceptance criteria are 40 points / 100 yd 2, then this
roll is acceptable.

Page 64 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

9.2

Department wise defect &code no. For varies defect in fabrics:


Yarn
Defects

Dyeing
Sizing
Weaving
Code Defects Code Defects Code Defects Code
no
no
no
no
Corser warp
101 Shade
201 Loose
301 Broken
401
veriation
pick
Corser Weft
102 Satin
202 Tight
302 Double
402
pick
Finer Warp
103 Stip
203 Beam
303 Miss
403
mark
stain
pick
Finer Weft
104 S.S.V
204 Size
304 Lashing 404
spot
pick
Oily Warp
105
Dyeing
205 Bad
305 Starting 405
patta
selvedge
mark
Oily Weft
106
Less
306 Reed
406
width
mark
Slub
107
Slack
307 Knot
407
End
Contamination 108
B.F
308 Snarl
408

Finishing
Defects Code
no
Crease
501
mark
Unsigned 502

Thik Thin

Page 65 of 88

109

Smash

409

Bad
selvedge
Floating
end
Double
end
Wrong
drawing
Less
width
Wave
MisYarn
warp

410
411
412
413
414
415
416

Width
variation
M/C stop

503

Stain

505

504

Torn/Hole 506
E.H mark

507

Weave

508

Sleeve
mark

509

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

9.3

Quality categories in Denim Fabrics (Revision Date: 12/09/2011):


Quality
Max
Grade Max. no of defects in a
category Defect
roll of Yards(60width)
points/100
sq. Yards
1
15
A+
100 125 150 200

9.4

20

25

31

37

50

3
4
5
6

28
40
>40
>40

AB
C
D

33 42
50
67
47 58
70
93
>67 >83 >100 >133

Maximum Defect Point/100sq.Yards

Figure: Inspection Section


Page 66 of 88

Max.no of 4 point Present


defects in a roll of Envoy
Yards
Category
100 125 150 200
2

4
5
>6

5
6
>7

6
7
>9

8
10
>12

Super
Elite
Elite
Plus
Elite
Export
Shady
Envoy
Extra

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

Chapter-10: Research & Development(R&D)


According to the buyer provides sample, R & D department research about Shade, EPI, PPI,
warp yarn count, weft yarn count, fabric type, width, total ends, yarn type, weave, GSM, reed
count etc.

10.1

Process Flowchart of R&D:

Swatch receive from


marketing

Analysis Swatch

Match with existing


sample

Yes
Send to
Marketing

Tentative
costing

Yes

Yes
15 days to develop

Page 67 of 88

No

Match with
existing yarn

For approval

No

Dropped
No

Depend on yarn
supply

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

10.2

Types of Fabric Develop by R&D Department at Envoy Textile Ltd:

Regular Fabric :
OE
=
Regular
OE
=
Regular Polyester
OE
=
Regular Stretch
OE
= Regular
Poly Stretch
***OE = Open
ends ( Rotor spun)

Fig: Regular Fabric


Slub Fabric :

OESL OE= Slub


OESL Polyester=
Slub Polyester
OESL Lycra= Slub
Stretch
OESL Polyester
= Slub Poly
Stretch
*** OESL= Open
ends slub (Rotor
spun slub)

Fig : Slub Fabric

Page 68 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

Cross Slub Fabric:

OESL OESL=
Cross Slub
OESL
Polyeste
r)= Cross Slub
Polyester
OESL
Lycra)=
Cross Slub
Stretch
OESL
Lycra +
Polyester)= Cross
Slub Poly Stretch

Fig: Cross Slub Fabric


Multi-count Fabric:

(OE+OE+OE) OE
=Multi-count Fabric
(OE+OE+OE) OESL
=Multi-count Slub
Fabric
(OE+OE+OE) OE
Poly=Multi-count
Polyester
(OE+OE+OE) OE Poly
Lycra =Multi-count
Poly Stretch

Fig : Multi Count Fabric

Page 69 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

10.3

Shade Identification Process:

In Envoy Textile Ltd. Four Basic Shade are produce it is very difficult to identify the shade in
human eye for easy identification N, N- Dimethylformamide is used. At first a piece of fabric or
yarn is boiled with N, N- Dimethylformamide then dry. After that we can see:
Topping:
Before N, N- Dimethylformamide Wash

After N, N- Dimethylformamide Wash

Bottoming:
Before N, N- Dimethylformamide Wash

Page 70 of 88

After N, N- Dimethylformamide Wash

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

Indigo:
Before N, N- Dimethylformamide Wash

After N, N- Dimethylformamide Wash

Black:
Before N, N- Dimethylformamide Wash

Page 71 of 88

After N, N- Dimethylformamide Wash

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

10.4 Washing:
In R&D Department they are flow 6 washing process; these are:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.

Rinse wash
Enzyme wash
Enzyme Bleach
Enzyme Stone
Enzyme Stone Bleach
Tint wash (Re-dyeing)

10.5 Basic recipe for different washing:


For 2 kg fabric,
1. Rinse wash:
Water

100 L

Temperature

45-50O C

De-sizing Chemical

75-100 gm

Time

8-10 minute

***for each shade wash two time

2. Enzyme wash :

Page 72 of 88

Water

80 L

Temperature

45-50O C

Enzyme

100 gm

PH

5-5.5

Time

25-30 minute

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

3. Enzyme Bleach wash :


*** It is done by after completing enzyme wash
Water

90 L

Temperature

55-60O C

Bleaching chemical

500 CC

Time

6-8 minute

***Wash two times and after complete washing neutralization is essential


Neutralization bath recipe:
Water

60-70 L

Temperature

50-55o C

Neutralization chemical

250-300 gm

Time

5 min

4. Enzyme stone and Enzyme heavy stone:


Water

80 L

Temperature

45-50OC

Enzyme

100 gm

Stone

2-2.5 kg (For heavy stone wash stone 4-6


kg)
35-40 min

Time

5. Enzyme Stone Bleach:


*** It is done by after completing enzyme stone wash

Water

90 L

Temperature

55-60O C

Bleaching chemical

500 CC

Time

6-8 minute

***Wash two times and after complete washing neutralization is essential

Page 73 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

6. Softening:

Page 74 of 88

Water

50 L

Temperature

40o C

Softener

2L

Time

5-6 min

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

Chapter-11: LAB & QA


It is very important to maintain the quality of fabric for buyer satisfaction. The buyer of Envoy
Textiles Ltd. are very conscious about fabric quality, so Envoy Textiles Ltd. maintain the
international standard . It flow the rules of ISO, ASTM & AATCC to maintain the quality of fabric.

11.1

Type of Testing In Lab:


For Yarn

Count
Lea strength
Single strength
CSP test(actual count*lea
strength)
Twist per Inch
Twist Multiplier
Spandex(%)
Thin& thick place,
Neps Hairines
Imperfection
Slub diamete
Slub length

Page 75 of 88

For Fabric
GSM
Fabric Width
Shrinkage
Skewness
Constriction
Spirality
Tensile strength
Tear strength
Stretch
Growth
Fabric PH
Seam Slippage

Color Fastness Test


Color fastness to wash
Color fastness to rubbing

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

11.2

Layout Of Lab In Envoy Textiles Ltd.:


N
Lab Scan XE (Hunter Lab)

E
S

Light Box

GSM Cutter

USTER TESTER 5
Titan2 Universal

Electric Balance

Strength Tester

Auto Warp Reel 10


Abrasion & Pilling Tester
Lea Strength Tester

Electronic Twist Tester


Crock meter
Electric Balance
Verivide Light

Box

Digital Tear Strength Tester


Humidifier

Page 76 of 88

Auto Winder

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

11.3

Different Test Method Followers by Envoy Textile Limited:

No.

Test Name

Method

01

Spirality /Skew of Fabric

AATCC 179; ISO 16322-1,2&3

02

Washing

ISO105 C06

03

Rubbing/ Crocking

AATCC 8;ISO 105 12

04

Tensile Strength

Fabric Tensile-ISO-13934-2
Yarn Tensile-ISO-2062

05

Seam Performance

ISO-13936

06

Tear Strength

ASTM D-1424
ISO-13937-1

07

Abrasion Resistance

ISO-12947

08

Pilling Resistance

ISO-12947-2

09

PH value of textile item

ISO-3071

10

Thread per unit length

ISO-7211-2

11

Fabric weight ( mass per unit area)

ISO-3801

12

Fabric Width

ISO-3932

13

Twist per unit length

ASTM D 1422

14

Length of thread

Page 77 of 88

ASTMD
a. Up to 3000 m
b. Subsequent 1000 m

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

11.4

Machine , Equipment name and their Function:

Machine Name

USTER TESTER 5

Manufacturer

USTER

Origin

Switzerland

Titan2 Universal
strength tester

James H. Heal and


Co.

England

Auto Warp Reel 10

MAG Solvics pvt.


Limited Co.
MAG Solvics pvt.
Limited Co.
MAG Solvics pvt.
Limited Co.
SK SATO KEIRYOKI
CO. LTD

India

Lea Strength Tester


Ele Twist Tester
Thermograph

Elmatear(Tear
test)
Verivide Light Box
Crock master
Nu- Martandal
abrasion and pilling
tester
Electric Balance
GSM Cutter
Humidifier
Skew measurement
scale
Shrinkage and
spirality
measurement
board

Page 78 of 88

India
India

Japan

James H. Heal and


Co.
Verivide Ltd.

England

James H. Heal and


Co.
James H. Heal and
Co.

England

OHAUS Corporation

England

England

USA

James H. Heal and


Co.
STULZ

England

James H. Heal and


Co.

England

USA

England
James H. Heal and
Co.

Function
Used to determine the CV%,
Thin&
thick place, neps
hairiness, imperfection, slub
diameter, slub length etc.
Used to determine the Tensile
strength, Elongation of yarn
and fabric and it is used for
determine seam slippage
Used to make lee for count
and lea strength test.
Used to determine the
strength of lea.
Used to determine Twist per
inch.
Used to check lab
temperature and relative
humidity.
Used to determine the tear
strength of fabric
Used for shade matching
Used to check the color
fastness to rubbing
Used to check the abrasion
and pilling resistance of fabric
Used to measure the weight
Used to check the GSM of
fabric
Control temperature and
humidity
Used to measure skewness of
fabric
Used to measure Shrinkage
and spirality of fabric

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

Chapter-12:Utility Section
12.1

Source Of Utility:

Electricity

PGCB& Generator

Gas
Water
Compressed air
Steam Boiler

TITAS
Pumps
Compressor
Boiler

12.2

Description Of Utility:

12.2.1 EFFLUENT TREATMENT PLANT (ETP):


Purpose of ETP:
Water is basic necessity of life used for
many purposes one of which is
industrial use.
Industries generally take water from
rivers or lakes but they have to pay
heavy taxes for that.
So its necessary for them to recycle
that to reduce cost and also conserve
it.
Main function of this ETP is to clean
GCP effluent and recycle it for further
use.

Figure: ETP Plant

Page 79 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

12.2.2 Chemical Used in ETP and their function:


Chemical Name

Fera Sulphate

Function

Lime powder

Used to increase the concentration of sludge and clean the


water.
Change the color of water

Polymer

Separate sludge from water

Hydro caloric acid ( HCl)

Used to decrease the PH of water

Phosphoric Acid

Remove Bad bad smell of water

Urea

Used as a food for Bacteria

12.2.3 Gas Boiler:

Brand Name : Cochran


Manufacturer: BIB COCHRAN LTD.
Type
: Fire Tube
Origin
: Scotland
No, of Boiler : 03
Total Capacity : 21 ton

Fig: Gas Boiler Section

Page 80 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

12.2.4 Compressor:
Brand Name : Atlas Copco
Model

: ZR 250

Origin

: Belgium

Maximum Air Pressure: 8.6 Bar


RRM:
For 1,4&5:2400
For 2&3:1480
Total Machine: 05

Figure: Compressor

12.2.5 Power Plant:


Engine Name: Gas Generator
Brand Name: Deutz MWM
Manufacturer: Deutz Power System.
Origin: Germany
Capacity: 1-3: 1344 KW & 4: 1500KW
Total Capacity of 4 Generator: 5.532 MW
RPM: 1500
Volt: 400 V
Frequency: 50 HZ

Page 81 of 88

Figure: Power Plant Section

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

12.2.6 Chiller:
Brand Name: Shuangling
Manufacturer: Jiangsu Shaungling AirCondition Equipment
Origin: China
Chilled water out let Temperature:90C
Chilled water in-let Temperature:320C
Total Capacity: 829 RT

Figure: Chiller

No. of machine: 02

Figure: Cooling Tower

12.2.7 Fire Fighting Pump:


Total No. of Pumps: 03
Use: Supply Water in Hydrant Point

Page 82 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

12.2.8 Water Treatment Plant:


Brand Name: INDION
Manufacturer: Ion-Exchange Ltd.
Origin: India
Capacity:100 m3/H
Chemical used: Sodium Chloride

Figure: Water Treatment Plant

Page 83 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

Chapter-13:Maintenance
13.1

MAINTENANCE ACTIVITIES FOR THEIR OPTIMUM PERFORMANCES AT THEIR


FOLLOWING POINTS:

13.2

Routes of different utilities like water, stem, gas, electricity, compressed air, etc.
Dyestuff & chemical dosing system.
Drainage system of waste water, color & chemical.
Driving arrangement of different machineries.
Power transmission to different machineries.
Fabric guiding system through the machineries.
Cleanliness of machine parts.

Classification of Maintenance:

Preventive Maintenance
Preventive maintenance is a predetermined routine actively to ensure on time inspection /
checking of facilities to uncover conditions that may lead to production break downs or harmful
description.
Break down maintenance
In this case, repairs are made after the equipment is out of order and it cant perform its
normal functions.
Routine Maintenance
Maintenance of different machines is prepared by expert engineer of maintenance department.
Normally in case of dyeing m/c maintenance after 30 days complete checking of different
important parts are done.

13.3

Maintenance Schedule:

In Ball warding, Dyeing, LCB, Sizing, Finishing, Inspection maintenance one times in a month.
In weaving section loom are maintain Half weekly, Weekly , Half Monthly, Monthly ,Half yearly
& yearly.

Page 84 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

Chapter-14:Marketing
14.1

Marketing Strategy:

Marketing strategy is a very important factors to sale the products to the buyer. If the
marketing strategy is not so developed, it will be very hard to reach the goal. In case of
garments marketing the dealings with the buyer is a very important factor. At Envoy Textiles
Ltd. mainly senior marketing officers, merchandiser & higher officials deal with the buyer. There
are some fixed buyers of the industry. The buyers give their orders continuously all over the
year. The marketing officers & the merchandisers communicate with the buying houses to
collect the orders. By both side understanding the rate & the order quantity are fixed. A welldefined marketing strategy has the following characteristics:

14.2

Good quality
Low price or competitive price
Prompt service
Good commitment
Good business communication

Buyer's Compliance:

No child labor.
No forced labor.
Transport facilities for worker.
Hours of work.
Voluntary over time.
Intervals for rest.
Weekly holidays.
Annual leave.
Festival holidays & leaves with bonus.
Maternity protection.
Worker's welfare committee.
Mineral drinking water.
Sanitary facilities.
First aid box.
Canteen services.

Page 85 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

Day care center.


Health care activities for the worker & employ company doctor.
Fire extinguisher each & every floor & conduct fire drill at least 12 times a year. We are
giving a top priority on prevention of fire and eventual evacuation.
Other safety department (no discrimination).
Compensation cases department.
The development of compliance programmer.
Environmental developer.
Smoking free zone.

14.3

Major Buyer of Envoy Textiles Ltd.:

14.4

Direct Fabric Export To:

Germany
Turkey
Sri Lanka
India

Page 86 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

Chapter-15:Limitations of the Report


I have a very limited time. In spite of my willing to study more details it was not
possible to do so.
Some of the points in different chapter are not described as these were not available.
The whole process is not possible to bind in such a small frame as this report, hence
my effort spent on summarizing them.

Page 87 of 88

Envoy Textiles Ltd.

Chapter-16: Conclusion
I have completed my industrial attachment successfully by the grace of Allah. Industrial
attachment sends me to the expected destiny of practical life. The completion of the two
months Industrial attachment at Envoy Textiles Ltd. I have got the impression that factory is one
of the most modern export oriented and first Rope Denim factory in Bangladesh. Though it was
established only a few years ago, it has earned very good reputations for its best performance
over many other export oriented textile mills.
I am enough fortunate that I have got an opportunity of having a training in this mill. During the
training period I have received co-operation and association from the authority full & found all
man, machines & materials on appreciable working condition. All stuffs & officers were very
sincere & devoted their duties to achieve their goal.
Finally I would like to wish Envoy Textiles Ltd. to have a blast & thanks to administration of
Envoy Textiles Ltd. for their cordial attitude to me.

Page 88 of 88

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