Acknowledgement
At the beginning I remember the Almighty Allah for give me the opportunity to complete
the industrial training. I have completed my industrial training at Envoy Textiles Ltd.
Jamirdia, Bhaluka, Mymensingh. I attended on training from 2nd May 2013 to 30thJune2013.
My special thanks to Prof. Dr. Mustafizur Rahman, Head of the Department of Textile
Engineering, AUST. Heartily thanks to Ms. Nasrin Akter for her continuous guiding. Also
thanks to all the faculty members of Textile Engineering department.
Thanks to all the management body of concern mill for their support and kindness. Cordial
thanks to Mr. Tushar Tripathi,CEO; Mr. Hamimur Rahman (GM ,Human Resource); Mr.
Nanda Dulal Biswas (GM, Production) and I also like to thanks all Sr. Manager, Manager, Sr.
Executives, Executives and other officials of Envoy Textiles Ltd. for providing me support
during attachment period. My gratitude also goes to all the employees of Envoy Textiles
Ltd. for their co-operation, support and valuable advices.
Page 1 of 88
Introduction:
Envoy Textiles Ltd., leading denim fabric producer in Bangladesh since 2005, started the
commercial production in early 2008. This industry is professionally managed and
technically sound organization located at Bhaluka, Mymensingh (60 km North of Dhaka
City).The plant is fully integrated with State of the Art technology and machinery from USA,
Japan, Korea, Switzerland, Italy, India& Belgium. Envoy Textiles Ltd. produces indigo denim
fabric with the best and most modern ROPE DYEING Technology. With ever increasing
acceptance of quality fabric and increase in demand the production capacities were
expanded at regular intervals. The target production capacity of Envoy Textiles Ltd. is 20
million meter per year.
Recently, the factory has achieved ISO 9001: 14001 quality certification and its products are
OKOTEX certified. Envoy Textiles Ltd. produces a range of products from 6.5oz to 15oz. of
denim fabrics and in a variety of shades and cast basic indigos and sulphur topping or
bottoming, in 100% cotton and a variety of blends. ETL targets to be listed in Dhaka Stock
Exchange and Chittagong Stock Exchange by issuing IPO by June, 2012. Assigned AA + rating
by Credit Rating Agency of Bangladesh.
Page 2 of 88
1.2
1.3
Strength:
1.4
COMPLIANCE:
Envoy Textiles Ltd has received numbers of key Industry standard certifications. These are:
Page 3 of 88
1.5
Board of Directors:
1.6
Chairman
Managing Director
Director
Director
Director
Director
Director
Company Address:
Factory:
Corporate Office:
Page 4 of 88
1.7
Reedisha
Spinning
Ltd.
Badsha
Textile
Dhaka-Mymensingh Highway
Square Masterbari
Tepantor
Resorte
Page 5 of 88
1.8
2418'17.24"N 9023'2.93"E
Figure: Location Map Of Envoy Textiles Ltd (Google Maps)
Page 6 of 88
1.9
Page 7 of 88
1.10
Organizational Structure:
Chairman
CEO
G.M (H R)
Manager
(P.P)
Asst.
Manager
G.M (Production)
Manager
(Dyeing)
Asst.
Manager
G M (Mechanical)
Manager
(Weaving)
Asst.
Manager
Manager
(Finishing)
Asst.
Manager
Executive
Executive
Executive
Operator
Operato
r
Operator
Operator
Helper
Helper
Helper
Helper
Page 8 of 88
Executive
1.11
Page 9 of 88
Section
Ball Warping
Dyeing
60
64
LCB
Sizing
63
27
Weaving
Finishing
200
63
Inspection
Lab
54
16
R&D
Planning
17
4
Production planning
Ball Warping
Rope Dyeing
LCB
Sizing
Weaving
Finishing
Inspection
Dispatch
Page 10 of 88
2.2
2.2.1
Denim Yarn:
This section has detailed description about the yarn that is usually used by Envoy Textiles
Ltd. for manufacturing high quality denim fabrics. The spinning method of denim yarn is also
described shortly.
2.3
Specialty Yarn:
2.3.1
Modern ring-spinning frames and open-end machines can be installed with devices that can
manufacture predetermined yarn effects. These effects can vary from slubs (thick places)
with different lengths, different spacing between slubs, or variations in the yarn count.
Using these devices, OE yarns can have a more ring-spun like appearance, and ring-spun
yarns can have an increased rough or antiqued quality. Yarn spinners can design patterns
and effects specific to their needs, which can be downloaded into the machines electronic
control system.
Page 11 of 88
Page 12 of 88
2.4
2.4.1
No.
01
02
03
04
05
06
07
08
09
10
11
12
13
14
15
Supplier
NRG Spinning Ltd.
Salek Spinning Ltd.
Square Spinning Ltd.
Badsha Textile Ltd.
Gulsan Spinning Ltd.
Jamuna Spinning Ltd.
Nahar Spinning Ltd.
Purbani Spinning Ltd.
Sinha Spinning Ltd.
QUETT A Spinning Ltd.
Sel Manufacturing
Suprim Spinning Ltd.
Trident Ltd.
VORDAHAMAN Spinning Ltd.
Din-TEX
Origin
Bangladesh
Bangladesh
Bangladesh
Bangladesh
Bangladesh
Bangladesh
Bangladesh
Bangladesh
Bangladesh
India
India
India
India
India
Pakistan
Supplier
Shaoxing Bowarn
Zheijang
Modern Poly Industries
AA Synthetic
Origin
China
China
Bangladesh
Bangladesh
05
Reliance
India
Page 13 of 88
Warping:
Warping is the process of transferring multiple yarns from individual yarn packages onto a
single package assembly. Normally, yarns are collected in a sheet form where the yarns lie
parallel to each other and in the same plane onto a beam, which is a cylindrical barrel with
side flanges. This is known as beam warping.
3.2
Ball Warping:
3.3
Page 14 of 88
Page 15 of 88
3.4
M/C
No.
Manufacturer
Country of
Origin
M/C type
Creel
Capacity
Stop Motion
GRIFFIN
USA
456
GRIFFIN
USA
456
Electrical
sensor
Drop wire
GRIFFIN
USA
456
Drop wire
MORRISON
USA
Auto
tension m/c
Gram
tension m/c
Gram
tension m/c
Auto
tension m/c
528
Electrical
sensor
3.5
Tension, Ball force & Speed for Gram Tension for Manual Machine:
Count
Tension
65-70 gm
60-65gm
50-55gm
3.6
Ball
force (FullEmpty)
160-320
140-300
120-280
Speed
330 mpm
300 mpm
300mpm
Tension, Ball force & Speed for Gram Tension for Automatic Machine :
Count
Jog
Front
Run
9/1 Ne,10/1 Ne
Jog
Front
Run
12/1 Ne, 16/1 Ne, Jog
20/1 Ne
Front
Run
Page 16 of 88
Tension
87%
82%
87%
77%
72%
77%
67%
62%
67%
Ball
force
(Full- Empty)
160-320
Speed
350 mpm
330 mpm
140-300
350 mpm
330 mpm
120-280
350mpm
330mpm
For OE
For Slub
3.7
Types of Creels :
Traveling Package Creels:
These are V-shaped creels with the actively running yarn packages on the outside of the V
and the full yarn packages placed on the inside of the V. When the running packages are
depleted, the yarn spindles on the creel are rotated so that the empty packages move to the
inside of the V-creel for replenishment. The full packages move to the outside of the creel.
The new yarn ends have to be pulled forward and threaded properly in the machine before
running the next warp. The empty package positions are then replaced with new full
packages while the warper is running. This eliminates lost time in creeling up new yarn
packages.
Magazine Creels :
These are straight-line creels with enough spindles so that each end-running has a reserve
yarn package placed beside of it. The tail end of the running package is tied to the beginning
end of the reserve package. Once the running package is depleted, the yarn transfers over
to the reserve package and the warper continue to run. This is a random method of creeling
yarn packages compared to block creeling normally used on traveling package creels.
Page 17 of 88
Page 18 of 88
Denim Dyeing:
Denim is a rugged cotton twill textile, in which the weft passes under two or more warp
threads. This twill weaving produces the familiar diagonal ribbing of the fabric, which
distinguishes denim from cotton duck. It is characteristic of any indigo denim that only the
warp threads are dyed, whereas the weft threads remain plain white. As a result of the
warp-faced twill weaving, one side of the fabric shows the blue warp threads, the other side
shows the white weft threads. This is why jeans are white from the inside and what makes
their fading characteristics so unique compared to every other fabric.
There have two type of denim dyeing:
1. CONTINUOUS SLASHER DYEING
2. INDIGO ROPE DYEING PROCESS
In Envoy Textiles Ltd Rope Dyeing Technology is used.
4.2
Rope Dyeing:
The indigo Rope Dyeing Technology for denim production is considered a superior dyeing
technology, where better uniformity of dyeing is achieved than other indigo dyeing
technologies like slasher dyeing. Indigo rope dyeing was started at U S A . Today rope dyeing
accounts for a large percentage of warp yarn dyed for denim production. The system offers
highest production, due to continuous process as there is no stoppage for set change .In this
dyeing method, maximum continuity of shades and minimum danger to centre to selvedge
shade variation can be achieved.
Page 19 of 88
4.3
Draw nip
Mercerization Bath
Dye Bath
( 1-8; depends on shade)
Coiler
Page 20 of 88
4.4
Dyestuff Speciation:
Generally two types of dye stuff are used to produce the desired shades. As Indigo dyes
Sulphur dyes
4.4.1
Indigo Dyeing :
Indigo blue dye (vat dye) is not soluble in water in normal condition. To make water soluble,
reduction is done by using reducing agent. Reducing agent: sodium hydro sulphite (Na 2S 2O4)
(trade name - Hydrose) .
4.4.2
Sulphur Dyeing :
In 1893 the chemist Vidol make a reaction of sodium sulphide and sulphur with organic
base (paraphenyl- enediamine or paramino phenol) and produce Vidol black. This is known as
sulpherdye stuff. To develop the Black color Vidol black is oxidized by potassium di chromate
on the cloth surface during dyeing.
Properties:
It is cheap in price.
Wet fastness is good but light fastness is not so good.
It is insoluble in water. But reacting with Na2S (reducing agent) it produce
Thiol which is water soluble.
Shades that are processed at Envoy Textiles Ltd .:
Regular Indigo
Black
Topping(Indigo then black)
Bottoming (Black then indigo)
Page 21 of 88
4.5
Machine Description :
Name of the Machine: Morrison rope dyeing machine
Country of origin: U.S.A
4.6
Page 22 of 88
4.7
Chemical name
Amount (kg)
Indigo
350 kg
Caustic
250 kg
Sodium Hydrosulphite
350 kg
Sequestering agent
5 kg
Dispersing agent
14 kg
Wetting agent
17 kg
Total volume
3500 Liter
Amount (kg)
90 kg
6 kg
20 kg
3000 liter
Hydrosulphite :
Chemical Name
Sodium Hydrosulphite
Caustic
Total volume
Amount (kg)
30 kg
Depends on required PH
200 Liter
Page 23 of 88
Amount
150 kg
75 kg
Volume
600 liter
600 liter
Softener :
Chemical Name
Softener
Carboxylic acid
Total volume
Page 24 of 88
Amount (kg)
70 kg
10 kg
1000 liter
4.8
For Topping
Ball creel (Rope)
For Bottoming
Ball creel (Rope)
For Indigo
Ball creel (Rope)
For Black
Ball creel (Rope)
Mercerization
Bath(Temp-30o C )
Bottoming(Black,
Brown etc)(Temp-85o
C)
Mercerization
Bath(Temp-30oC )
Mercerization
Bath(Temp-30oC )
Steamer (Temp-110o
C)
Coiler
Rope Can
Coiler
Coiler
Drying Cylinder (1 36)
Rope Can
Coiler
Rope Can
Page 25 of 88
Rope Can
4.9
No.
Chemical Name
Function
Caustic Soda
Wetting Agent
Sequestering Agent
Reducing Agents
Dispersing Agent
Softener
Carboxylic acid
Fixing agent
Glucose (dextrose
monohydrate)
Page 26 of 88
4.10
1.Reducing Agent :
Brand Name
Reducing Agent DP
Diresul Antioxident
Hydrosulphit Conz.
Manufacturer
Clariant
Clariant
BASF
Origin
Indonesia
Spain
Germany
Manufacturer
Clariant
BASF
BASF
Bangapoo chemicals co.ltd
Origin
Spain
Germany
Germany
Thailand
Manufacturer
TRITONGGAL Multichem.
E K Soy Chemicals
Origin
Indonesia
Turkey
2. Wetting Agent :
Brand Name
Hostapol EH Liquid
Leophen M C
Primasol N F
Permagen NFS
3. Sequestering Agent:
Brand Name
DEN-PERSE-PT
Anticil Conz.
4. Caustic Soda:
Brand Name
Caustic Soda
Origin
China, India, Saudia Arabia, Local etc.
5. Softener:
Brand Name
Overwax DE
Edunine XL-NT
Belfasin GT
Manufacturer
Lamberti
Corda-chemicals
Pulcra chemicals
Origin
Asia pacific
India
Turkey
Manufacturer
Clariant
Clariant
Origin
Spain
Spain
6. Fixing Agent :
Brand Name
Diresul Oxident
Direfix SD
Page 27 of 88
7. Dispersing Agent :
Brand Name
Setamol WS
Manufacturer
BASF
Origin
Germany
Manufacturer
BASF
Origin
Germany
8. Carboxylic Acid
Brand Name
Carboxylic Acid
9. Dyes:
Brand Name
Manufacturer
Origin
Clariant
Spain
Clariant
Spain
Clariant
Spain
Clariant
Spain
Clariant
Spain
Diresul Yellow
Clariant
Spain
Liquid Indigo
BASF
Singapore / China
Apsul Black RF
Oxford Technology
Taiwan
Powder Black
AAA Brand
China
India
Indigo
China
Page 28 of 88
4.11
Effect of pH :
At pH of 10.5 to 11.5, there will be formation of more monophenolate ions, which lead to
higher color yield, as strike rate of the dye to the yarn bundle is very high, and wash down
activities will be very good. At pH higher than this, dye penetration will be less and wash
down characteristics are also poor.
4.12
A.Brand Name
: Metrohm
Model
Origin
: Switzerland
Use
agent .
: Test GPL of Indigo & Hydro& measure Redox Potential for Reducing
B.Brand Name
: Metrohm
Model
Origin
: Switzerland
Use
: Used to check PH
C.Brand Name
: HACH LANG
Model
: LICO 500
Origin
: Germany
Use
Fig: Metrohm
Page 30 of 88
Fig: Spectrophotometer
4.13
Page 31 of 88
Chapter -5: L C B
5.1
After the rope dyeing of warp yarn in denim production, the next operation is the Long
Chain Beamer (LCB). When the rope has been dyed and dried in the rope dyeing range, it is
taken in large cans in coiler section. In rope dyeing range, if the machine has a capacity 24
ropes, then there will be 24 separate coilers which delivers 24 ropes in separate cans. These
cans are transferred to the Long Chain Beaming area. The basic purpose of long chain
beamer is to open the rope into a sheet form of yarn and wind onto a warper beam which in
turn transferred to the sizing machine.
In Long Chain Beamer, the yarn alignment in the dyed rope is change from a rope form to a
sheet form. In the Long Chain Beamer the rope pull from the can by moving them upward to
a guiding device. The guiding device is mounted above the can, probably in the ceiling. The
upward movement of the rope allows the ropes to untangle before nearing the beamer
head and allow the rope to shake loose form from the rest of the rope in the can.
5.2
5.3
Working Procedure of L C B:
Page 32 of 88
Accepting the can and processing sit from the dyeing department.
Powering the machine in the presence of electric engineer.
Setting of the parameter as per count.
Setting the can under accumulator.
Entering the yarn through accumulator and tension stand to complete read
denting of head stoke.
Cleaning the machine.
Setting an empty beam on the machine.
Starting the machine slowly at first and necessary speeds later.
Putting down the beam after completing program length.
Completing 1set after completing 12 beams.
Suitable for sizing.
5.4
5.5
Machine Description :
M/C No.
Manufacturer
Origin
Reed Capacity
01-08
09 & 10
GRIFFIN
MORRISON
USA
USA
480
520
5.6
Tension (gm/end)
80-85
75-80
68-73
60-65
50-55
45-50
Speed(m/min)
180-200
200
200-230
200-230
160-180
150-160
Page 33 of 88
Tension (gm/end)
33/38
30/35
23/28
20/25
17/22
15/20
Speed(m/min)
160/180
200
200/250
200/250
160/200
150/170
5.7
Figure: L C B Floor
Page 34 of 88
Chapter-6: Sizing
6.1
Sizing:
The main purpose for sizing warp yarns is to encapsulate the yarn with a protective coating.
This protective coating reduces yarn abrasion that takes place during the weaving operation
and reduces yarn hairiness preventing adjacent yarns from entangling with one another at
the weaving machine. Also, this protective coating keeps the indigo dye from rubbing off
during the weaving process. For many years, native starches or slightly modified starches
with corresponding binders were regarded as the most economical way to size indigo warps.
At the back end of the slasher range, the section beams from the beaming process are creeled.
The yarns from each beam will be pulled over and combined with the yarns from the other
beams to form multiple sheets of yarns, the number of sheets corresponding to the number of
size boxes (size applicators) on the machine.
As each yarn sheet enters a size box , the yarns are guided downward and submerged in the
liquid size. The yarn sheet leaves the size box via a set of squeeze rolls that helps control the wet
pick-up, which influences the amount of size added onto the yarn and controls the amount of
penetration of the size into the yarn. After this, the yarns are pulled over steam-heated, Teflon
coated cans or cylinders where drying takes place. At this point, the yarns are not totally dry, but
are monitored to maintain from 6-8% moisture typically. Most warp yarns for weaving denim
have 7-14% size add-on
(actual dry solids weight added to the original weight of the yarn).
This depends on what type of spinning system is used. Too much size causes yarn chaffing and
excessive shedding of size particles at the weaving machine, and too little size causes excessive
yarn abrasion resulting in dye streaks, clinging, broken and entangled ends resulting
Page 35 of 88
6.2
6.3
6.1
Origin
USA
Korea
Common
Sizing
: :
CommonRecipe
Recipeforfor
Sizing
Page 36 of 88
Chemical Name
Amount
Modified starch
QSPR
Binder
100 kg
10 kg
07 kg
Softener (wax)
Water
03 kg
1300 L
6.4
6.5
7,9&12 Ne
33-35 gm/ends
30-33 gm/ends
76-80 gm/ends
80-84 gm/ends
70-75 gm/ends
16 & 20 Ne
22-28 gm/ends
28-30 gm/ends
50 gm/ends
55 gm/ends
45 gm/ends
6.6
Sizing Equation :
Size Pick up %=
Sized yarn count :
Page 37 of 88
100 %
6.7
Page 38 of 88
Chapter-7: Weaving
7.1
Weaving:
The process of interlacing warp yarn with the inserted weft yarn in a definite order to form a
fabric suitable for use as a dress material or industrial purpose is called weaving. The
matching used for this purpose is called loom. Denim clothing never goes out of style. It's
attractive and durable, perfect for most casual occasions. Denim is most common as the
fabric in jeans, but is also used for shirts, jackets, skirts, dresses, hats, handbags and more.
Several different types of denim fabric are available depending on the function and look
people are after.
The weaving process interlaces the warp, which are the length-wise indigo dyed yarn and
the filling, which are the natural-colored cross-wise yarn. The warp thread is in the form of
sheet. The weft thread is inserted between two layers of warp sheets by means of a suitable
carrier, such as shuttle, projectile, rapier, air current, water current, etc.
7.2
Denim fabrics are woven by interlacing two sets of yarns perpendicular to one another in
fabric form. Yarns in the machine direction are called warp yarns or warp ends, and these
are interlaced with filling yarns or picks. The sequence or order of interlacing the two sets of
yarns can be varied to produce many different weave designs.
The finished fabric construction is determined by the number of warp and filling yarns per
square inch or centimeter. For example, a typical construction for denim may be 62 x 38.
This is interpreted as 62 warp yarns per inch of width and 38 filling yarns per inch of length
and always in that order. This thread count along with the yarn counts used will influence
fabric properties such as weight, fabric tightness, cover, drape, hand, tensile strength, tear
strength, and other fabric properties.
Page 39 of 88
7.3
For a more pronounced twill line in a denim fabric, the direction of twist in the warp yarn
should be opposite to the twill direction in the fabric. For example, if Z twisted yarn is
woven into a right-hand twill, the twill line is less pronounced. If S twisted yarn is woven
into the same fabric, then the twill line is more pronounced.
It must be remembered that only Z-twist yarns are formed in open-end yarns, while ringspun yarns have either Z or S. For that reason, open-end yarn can be used in left-hand twills
when a more pronounced twill line is desirable. Having the twist direction opposite from the
twill line direction also tends to make the fabric hand a little softer.
7.4
Indigo-dyed yarns have been woven in plain weaves known as chambray, oxfords, baskets,
herringbones, bedford cords, and combinations of 3/1 and 1/3 twills. Jacquard designs and
dobby weaves have also been incorporated into denim designs to produce new looks and
textures. As fashion designers create new ideas, the fabric manufacturers have to follow the
demands of marketing teams and market leaders.
Page 40 of 88
7.5
Drawing-in
Denting
Tying-in (knotting)
Weft insertion
Grey fabric
7.6
When a new denim style is put on a weaving machine, it is necessary to draw (thread or
insert) the warp yarns through various elements as in including stop motion devices (drop
wires), weave design control devices (harnesses and heddles), and filling beat-up devices
(reed). Each end of yarn must have its own individual element. This procedure can be done
manually or automatically on drawing-in machines. When producing the same style and
when the current loom beam is nearly empty of yarn, an identical full beam of yarn can be
tied to the yarns of the old beam. This is done by a tying-in machine, which automatically
selects an end of yarn from the old beam and ties it to the appropriate end on the new
beam. The knots are then pulled through the weaving machine before fabric is put into
production. It is well documented that many loom stops are caused by improper tying-in of
the warp yarns.
Page 41 of 88
Figure: Drawing-in
7.7
Warp yarns as seen in Figure are fed from the loom beam and pass over a whip roll or
rollers, which control yarn tension variations during weaving motions. The yarns are then
directed through drop wires, heddles, and a comb-like device called a reed. The spaces
between the reed wires across the width of the reed are called dents.
Page 42 of 88
Each reed has a certain number of dents per inch with 12 to 18 being the most common for
denim and denim-type fabrics. There are normally four warp yarns drawn per dent in
standard 3/1 twill denim fabrics. The heddles, through which the yarn is threaded, are
located in harness frames with a designed number of warp yarns drawn through each
harness. All warp yarns weaving alike in a design repeat occupy a given harness. The reed
establishes the width of the warp yarn sheet and equal spacing of the yarns before weaving.
It also is the mechanism used for pushing (beating-up) each inserted filling yarn (pick) into
the body of the fabric at the fell of the cloth. The fell is the point where yarns become
fabric. At this point, the warp yarn is in fabric form and ready to be collected on a cloth roll.
Some machines have inspection stands that are back lighted for easy inspection of the fabric
as it is woven before cloth roll take-up. The flow of the filling yarn is somewhat simpler. The
filling yarn is fed from large packages located outside of the actual weaving machine. The yarn
comes off the package or packages and is wound onto a storage feeder that allows the yarn to
be under consistent tension for each pick insertion. The yarn is then introduced to the filling
insertion mechanism and inserted across the separated warp yarns, which have formed a tunnel
or path called a weave shed.
7.8
Warp beam
Back rest roller
Drop wires
Motor driving the warp let-off
Heald frame
Motor driving the fabric takedown
Reed
Take down roller
Cloth beam
Page 43 of 88
7.9
Loom Motion:
Each and every machine has some certain movements or motions. A weaving is distinguished
from other machines by its specific movements or motions. These motions are divided into
two categories as follows:
Primary motion
Secondary motion
Auxiliary motions.
7.10
Primary motion:
Figure: shedding
2.Picking:
It is the means by which the weft is
projected through the shed. This was
traditionally by shuttle, but more recently it
is done by projectile, air jet or water jet.
Figure : Picking
Page 44 of 88
3. Beating:
It is where the reed pushes the weft into
the fell of the cloth to form fabric. This
requires considerable called beating up.
The above mentioned three primary
motions of a loom i.e. shedding, picking,
beating is performed in a cyclic order and
the fabric is produced. Then the fabric is
passed over the front rail and wound of the
cloth roller.
7.11
Figure: Beating
Secondary Motion:
7.12
Auxiliary Mechanisms:
To get high productivity and good quality of fabric, additional mechanisms, called auxiliary
mechanisms, are added to a power loom. The auxiliary mechanisms are useful but not
absolutely essential. This is why they are called the auxiliary mechanisms. These are listed
below.
Warp protector mechanism
Weft stop motion
Temples
Page 45 of 88
Brake
Warp stop motion (Predominantly found in automatic looms)
7.13
Primary motions:
Shedding mechanism- Cam shedding
Picking mechanism- Dewas system for rapier and filling insertion by air pressure.
Beat up mechanism- Cam mechanism.
Secondary motions:
Take up mechanism- Electrical
Let of mechanism- Electrical ( individual motor)
Tertiary motion:
Temple Ring temple
Batching motion - Individual motor drive controlled by machine drive
Page 46 of 88
7.14
Pre-winder:
The pre-winder wind the turn onto their
drum and ensure fault free delivery .
Opto-electronic sensor monitor the length of
yarn on the drum . The per-winder is
monitor and synchronized with the machine
through microprocessor which enables the
pre-winder to quickly adjust to the cloth
width.
Balloon-Breaker:
The air jet loom for denim weaving is
equipped with Balloon-Breaker which reduce
the weft tension due to ballooning. This also
reduces the energy required for weft
insertion for coarse count yarn and ensures
faster flight of the weft yarn, less air
consumption and higher speed.
Main nozzle:
The main nozzle is mounted in a fixed position on
the reed holder and move along with it.
Page 47 of 88
Filling Detector :
The air jet loom are incorporated with double
filling stop motion devices which monitor the
arrival of filling at the receiving side and also
stop the machine at the of filling breakage
.Double weft detector detect the miss-pick in
the shed and filling blows off.
The first weft detector detects s the filling,
where it has reached the right side end. When
the filling yarn dose not reaches the right end
for any reason, the first detector immediately
stop the machine. The second detector
detects the broken picks.
Sub Nozzle:
Sub Nozzle is used to maintain the constant
velocity of inserted weft yarn. Its depends on
the width of loom.
Page 48 of 88
Profile Reed:
A profile reed for an air jet loom includes a dent having a guide recess and a lower jaw portion
located below the guide recess, and a weft yarn passage formed by a plurality of the dents
juxtaposed in the direction of weft insertion. The guide recess is formed with upper, inner
lower wall surfaces. The inner wall surface is connected with the lower wall surface through a
lower arcuate surface formed with a radius of curvature. The front end of the lower jaw portion
is defined by a lower jaw arcuate surface formed with a radius of curvature. The lower jaw
portion extends frontward for a distance between the inner wall surface and the front end of
the lower jaw portion. The distance is set at or lower than 5.0 millimeters. The sum of the radii
of curvature is smaller than the distance.
Page 49 of 88
7.15
Page 50 of 88
Total no of machine: 19
Page 51 of 88
7.16
Page 52 of 88
7.17
Weaving Faults:
Here I tried to introduce some fabric faults occurred in Envoy Textiles Ltd. During my internship
period.
Starting mark:
Causes:
Main cause is loom stoppage.
Remedy:
This cannot be avoided but can be controlled by starting mark setting or starting
the loom by reversing the loom.
Reed mark:
Causes:
If any fault occur at reed
Faulty denting in the reed
Remedy:
Right selection of the reed and right denting.
Page 53 of 88
Filling stop:
Causes:
If weft is failed to reach FD1
If weft is too long and reach FD2
Remedy:
Snarl:
Causes:
Remedy:
Double pick:
Causes:
Cutting problem of the cutter
Faulty setting of the air pressure
Remedy:
Cutter position is to be set correctly
Air pressure should be reset
Page 54 of 88
Remedy:
7.18
Bad sizing
Low strength of the yarn
Crossing of the warp yarn
Loose or tight yarn
Re knotting
Proper sizing
CMPX :
It indicate the total breakage for 1,00,000 picks.
If,
Fabric construction is =
Warp Breakage =3
Cloth woven
= 63 m
So,
= 2.47
Page 55 of 88
Width Shrinkage :
=5.79 %
Production calculation :
Production =
If,
Fabric construction is =
RPM
= 750
Production =
= 14.54 Inch/min
= 0.3693 m/min
=22.15 m/hour
=177.27 m/shift
Page 56 of 88
Chapter-8: Finishing
Finishing of grey denim fabric normally carried out after weaving. It takes an important role in
fabric properties, appearance, softness and residual fabric shrinkage. The finishing of denim
fabric is carried out for several purposes. Finishing of denim fabric can be varied according to
the specific requirement of customer. The finishing process may vary from harsh hand (loom
state), soft hand (de-sizing) and sulphur over dyeing.
8.1
8.2
Machine Specification:
Finishing Process
Brand Name
Origin
Sanforising
Morrison
USA
Flat Finishing
Kyoto
Japan
Skew
Bianco
Italy
Coating
Rollmac
Italy
Stenter
Harish
India
Page 57 of 88
8.3
Weft skew unit and high tension compensator for width adjustment
Felt calendar
Exit J-Box
Page 58 of 88
8.4
Harish Stenter
Grey Fabric
Grey Fabric
Grey Fabric
J-Box
J-Box
J-Box
Brusher Roller
Brusher Roller
Chemical Box
Singing Burner
Singing Burner
Padder Roller
Caustic Box
Chemical Box
Skew Roller
Padder Roller
Padder Roller
Coating Knife
Stenter Chain
Skew Roller
Infeed Device
Wash Box
Drying Cylinder
Stenter Chain
Softener Box
Rubber Belt
Folding
Cooling Chamber
Drying Cylinder
Folding
Water Spray unit
Rubber Belt
Folding
Page 59 of 88
8.5
8.5.1
Singeing:
Singeing is an Important as it burn the protruding fibers form the fabric surface
Singeing Parameter:
Fabric speed (m/min)
Flame intensity (mbar)
Fabric moisture content (%)
Singeing positions
Burner fabric distance (mm)
8.5.2 Sanforising:
Sanforisation is a treatment applied
to fabric to reduce cloth shrinkage
after washing. During the sanforising
process, the fibers of the cotton fabric
are stretched both in length and in
width so that cloth that is washed and
dried will not shrink much.
Figure: Sanforising Unit
Page 60 of 88
Skew Measurement:
Page 61 of 88
8.5.4 Calendering:
Calendering is a finishing process used
on cloth where fabric is folded in half
and passed under rollers at high
temperatures
and
pressures.
Calendering is used on fabrics such
as moire to produce its watered effect
and also on cambric and some types
of sateens.
In preparation for calendering, the fabric
is folded lengthwise with the front side,
or face, inside, and stitched together
along the edges. The fabric can be
folded together at full width; however
this is not done as often as it is more
difficult. The fabric is then run through
rollers that polish the surface and make
the fabric smoother and more
lustrous. High
temperatures
and
pressure are used as well. Fabrics that
go through the calendering process feel
thin, glossy and papery.
Figure: Calendering(Palmer)unit
8.5.5 Mercerization:
It is the process by which natural twist/convolutions are open by the help of concentrated alkali
under tension conditions. It is a treatment which makes the cellulose start to swell at a certain
alkali concentration.
Page 62 of 88
Advantages of Mercerization:
improves dye uptake up to 40%
permanent luster is obtained
improves tensile strength
dimensional stability
dead cotton coverage
less pilling effect
The advantages of mercerization are considerable. The increase in the dye uptake capacity
results in deep shades and expensive dyes savings can be achieved. Furthermore as a rule, the
color fastness and uniform appearance of goods are also improved.
8.6
Page 63 of 88
Chapter-9: Inspection
The quality of a final garment depends on the quality of a denim fabric when it is received as a
roll. Even the most outstanding manufacturing methods cannot compensate for defective
materials. Normally, 10% of the rolls received are inspected and evaluated based on a fourpoint system. This way, denim fabric related quality problems can be avoided before it is put
into production.
9.1
The 4-Point System Assigns 1, 2, 3 And 4 Penalty Points According To The Size And Significance
Of The Defect. Its A Widely Recognized Inspection Method Frequently Used in The Textile
Industry. Its A Technique Issued By The American Society For Testing &Materials With
Reference To The Designation ASTMD5 430-93.
Fault length
Penalty
1-3 inch.
3-6 inch.
6-9 inch.
9-12 inch.
Than 12 inch.
1
2
3
4
4
If a defect is observed faults are classified and scored with penalty points of 1, 2, 3 and 4,
according to their size and significance. Each defect should be counted as a separate defect
even if the nature is the same and then based on the points allocated to each defect, total
points should be calculated. No more than 4 penalty points can be assigned for any single
defect. No linear yard or meter can contain more than 4 points, regardless of the number of
defects within that yard or meter. If the acceptance criteria are 40 points / 100 yd 2, then this
roll is acceptable.
Page 64 of 88
9.2
Dyeing
Sizing
Weaving
Code Defects Code Defects Code Defects Code
no
no
no
no
Corser warp
101 Shade
201 Loose
301 Broken
401
veriation
pick
Corser Weft
102 Satin
202 Tight
302 Double
402
pick
Finer Warp
103 Stip
203 Beam
303 Miss
403
mark
stain
pick
Finer Weft
104 S.S.V
204 Size
304 Lashing 404
spot
pick
Oily Warp
105
Dyeing
205 Bad
305 Starting 405
patta
selvedge
mark
Oily Weft
106
Less
306 Reed
406
width
mark
Slub
107
Slack
307 Knot
407
End
Contamination 108
B.F
308 Snarl
408
Finishing
Defects Code
no
Crease
501
mark
Unsigned 502
Thik Thin
Page 65 of 88
109
Smash
409
Bad
selvedge
Floating
end
Double
end
Wrong
drawing
Less
width
Wave
MisYarn
warp
410
411
412
413
414
415
416
Width
variation
M/C stop
503
Stain
505
504
Torn/Hole 506
E.H mark
507
Weave
508
Sleeve
mark
509
9.3
9.4
20
25
31
37
50
3
4
5
6
28
40
>40
>40
AB
C
D
33 42
50
67
47 58
70
93
>67 >83 >100 >133
4
5
>6
5
6
>7
6
7
>9
8
10
>12
Super
Elite
Elite
Plus
Elite
Export
Shady
Envoy
Extra
10.1
Analysis Swatch
Yes
Send to
Marketing
Tentative
costing
Yes
Yes
15 days to develop
Page 67 of 88
No
Match with
existing yarn
For approval
No
Dropped
No
Depend on yarn
supply
10.2
Regular Fabric :
OE
=
Regular
OE
=
Regular Polyester
OE
=
Regular Stretch
OE
= Regular
Poly Stretch
***OE = Open
ends ( Rotor spun)
Page 68 of 88
OESL OESL=
Cross Slub
OESL
Polyeste
r)= Cross Slub
Polyester
OESL
Lycra)=
Cross Slub
Stretch
OESL
Lycra +
Polyester)= Cross
Slub Poly Stretch
(OE+OE+OE) OE
=Multi-count Fabric
(OE+OE+OE) OESL
=Multi-count Slub
Fabric
(OE+OE+OE) OE
Poly=Multi-count
Polyester
(OE+OE+OE) OE Poly
Lycra =Multi-count
Poly Stretch
Page 69 of 88
10.3
In Envoy Textile Ltd. Four Basic Shade are produce it is very difficult to identify the shade in
human eye for easy identification N, N- Dimethylformamide is used. At first a piece of fabric or
yarn is boiled with N, N- Dimethylformamide then dry. After that we can see:
Topping:
Before N, N- Dimethylformamide Wash
Bottoming:
Before N, N- Dimethylformamide Wash
Page 70 of 88
Indigo:
Before N, N- Dimethylformamide Wash
Black:
Before N, N- Dimethylformamide Wash
Page 71 of 88
10.4 Washing:
In R&D Department they are flow 6 washing process; these are:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Rinse wash
Enzyme wash
Enzyme Bleach
Enzyme Stone
Enzyme Stone Bleach
Tint wash (Re-dyeing)
100 L
Temperature
45-50O C
De-sizing Chemical
75-100 gm
Time
8-10 minute
2. Enzyme wash :
Page 72 of 88
Water
80 L
Temperature
45-50O C
Enzyme
100 gm
PH
5-5.5
Time
25-30 minute
90 L
Temperature
55-60O C
Bleaching chemical
500 CC
Time
6-8 minute
60-70 L
Temperature
50-55o C
Neutralization chemical
250-300 gm
Time
5 min
80 L
Temperature
45-50OC
Enzyme
100 gm
Stone
Time
Water
90 L
Temperature
55-60O C
Bleaching chemical
500 CC
Time
6-8 minute
Page 73 of 88
6. Softening:
Page 74 of 88
Water
50 L
Temperature
40o C
Softener
2L
Time
5-6 min
11.1
Count
Lea strength
Single strength
CSP test(actual count*lea
strength)
Twist per Inch
Twist Multiplier
Spandex(%)
Thin& thick place,
Neps Hairines
Imperfection
Slub diamete
Slub length
Page 75 of 88
For Fabric
GSM
Fabric Width
Shrinkage
Skewness
Constriction
Spirality
Tensile strength
Tear strength
Stretch
Growth
Fabric PH
Seam Slippage
11.2
E
S
Light Box
GSM Cutter
USTER TESTER 5
Titan2 Universal
Electric Balance
Strength Tester
Box
Page 76 of 88
Auto Winder
11.3
No.
Test Name
Method
01
02
Washing
ISO105 C06
03
Rubbing/ Crocking
04
Tensile Strength
Fabric Tensile-ISO-13934-2
Yarn Tensile-ISO-2062
05
Seam Performance
ISO-13936
06
Tear Strength
ASTM D-1424
ISO-13937-1
07
Abrasion Resistance
ISO-12947
08
Pilling Resistance
ISO-12947-2
09
ISO-3071
10
ISO-7211-2
11
ISO-3801
12
Fabric Width
ISO-3932
13
ASTM D 1422
14
Length of thread
Page 77 of 88
ASTMD
a. Up to 3000 m
b. Subsequent 1000 m
11.4
Machine Name
USTER TESTER 5
Manufacturer
USTER
Origin
Switzerland
Titan2 Universal
strength tester
England
India
Elmatear(Tear
test)
Verivide Light Box
Crock master
Nu- Martandal
abrasion and pilling
tester
Electric Balance
GSM Cutter
Humidifier
Skew measurement
scale
Shrinkage and
spirality
measurement
board
Page 78 of 88
India
India
Japan
England
England
OHAUS Corporation
England
England
USA
England
England
USA
England
James H. Heal and
Co.
Function
Used to determine the CV%,
Thin&
thick place, neps
hairiness, imperfection, slub
diameter, slub length etc.
Used to determine the Tensile
strength, Elongation of yarn
and fabric and it is used for
determine seam slippage
Used to make lee for count
and lea strength test.
Used to determine the
strength of lea.
Used to determine Twist per
inch.
Used to check lab
temperature and relative
humidity.
Used to determine the tear
strength of fabric
Used for shade matching
Used to check the color
fastness to rubbing
Used to check the abrasion
and pilling resistance of fabric
Used to measure the weight
Used to check the GSM of
fabric
Control temperature and
humidity
Used to measure skewness of
fabric
Used to measure Shrinkage
and spirality of fabric
Chapter-12:Utility Section
12.1
Source Of Utility:
Electricity
PGCB& Generator
Gas
Water
Compressed air
Steam Boiler
TITAS
Pumps
Compressor
Boiler
12.2
Description Of Utility:
Page 79 of 88
Fera Sulphate
Function
Lime powder
Polymer
Phosphoric Acid
Urea
Page 80 of 88
12.2.4 Compressor:
Brand Name : Atlas Copco
Model
: ZR 250
Origin
: Belgium
Figure: Compressor
Page 81 of 88
12.2.6 Chiller:
Brand Name: Shuangling
Manufacturer: Jiangsu Shaungling AirCondition Equipment
Origin: China
Chilled water out let Temperature:90C
Chilled water in-let Temperature:320C
Total Capacity: 829 RT
Figure: Chiller
No. of machine: 02
Page 82 of 88
Page 83 of 88
Chapter-13:Maintenance
13.1
13.2
Routes of different utilities like water, stem, gas, electricity, compressed air, etc.
Dyestuff & chemical dosing system.
Drainage system of waste water, color & chemical.
Driving arrangement of different machineries.
Power transmission to different machineries.
Fabric guiding system through the machineries.
Cleanliness of machine parts.
Classification of Maintenance:
Preventive Maintenance
Preventive maintenance is a predetermined routine actively to ensure on time inspection /
checking of facilities to uncover conditions that may lead to production break downs or harmful
description.
Break down maintenance
In this case, repairs are made after the equipment is out of order and it cant perform its
normal functions.
Routine Maintenance
Maintenance of different machines is prepared by expert engineer of maintenance department.
Normally in case of dyeing m/c maintenance after 30 days complete checking of different
important parts are done.
13.3
Maintenance Schedule:
In Ball warding, Dyeing, LCB, Sizing, Finishing, Inspection maintenance one times in a month.
In weaving section loom are maintain Half weekly, Weekly , Half Monthly, Monthly ,Half yearly
& yearly.
Page 84 of 88
Chapter-14:Marketing
14.1
Marketing Strategy:
Marketing strategy is a very important factors to sale the products to the buyer. If the
marketing strategy is not so developed, it will be very hard to reach the goal. In case of
garments marketing the dealings with the buyer is a very important factor. At Envoy Textiles
Ltd. mainly senior marketing officers, merchandiser & higher officials deal with the buyer. There
are some fixed buyers of the industry. The buyers give their orders continuously all over the
year. The marketing officers & the merchandisers communicate with the buying houses to
collect the orders. By both side understanding the rate & the order quantity are fixed. A welldefined marketing strategy has the following characteristics:
14.2
Good quality
Low price or competitive price
Prompt service
Good commitment
Good business communication
Buyer's Compliance:
No child labor.
No forced labor.
Transport facilities for worker.
Hours of work.
Voluntary over time.
Intervals for rest.
Weekly holidays.
Annual leave.
Festival holidays & leaves with bonus.
Maternity protection.
Worker's welfare committee.
Mineral drinking water.
Sanitary facilities.
First aid box.
Canteen services.
Page 85 of 88
14.3
14.4
Germany
Turkey
Sri Lanka
India
Page 86 of 88
Page 87 of 88
Chapter-16: Conclusion
I have completed my industrial attachment successfully by the grace of Allah. Industrial
attachment sends me to the expected destiny of practical life. The completion of the two
months Industrial attachment at Envoy Textiles Ltd. I have got the impression that factory is one
of the most modern export oriented and first Rope Denim factory in Bangladesh. Though it was
established only a few years ago, it has earned very good reputations for its best performance
over many other export oriented textile mills.
I am enough fortunate that I have got an opportunity of having a training in this mill. During the
training period I have received co-operation and association from the authority full & found all
man, machines & materials on appreciable working condition. All stuffs & officers were very
sincere & devoted their duties to achieve their goal.
Finally I would like to wish Envoy Textiles Ltd. to have a blast & thanks to administration of
Envoy Textiles Ltd. for their cordial attitude to me.
Page 88 of 88