FOLIAR NEMATODES and FUNGUS

Capt. S KBHANDARI
& the ASFIC team
+91 9358525643
While most nematodes are soil-dwelling, the foliar nematode Aphelenchoides lives only briefly in
soil. More importantly, it lives on the above-ground portions of plants, often without causing any
obvious symptoms.
Nematodes
Microscopic round worms
Cause disease like symptoms
Moisture loss
Wilting
Stunting
Foliar nematodes cause angular leaf spots
Aphelenchoides like all other nematodes is a non-segmented roundworm. Compared to other
plant-infecting species, it is rather large, often 0.5 to 1.2 mm (0.02 to 0.05 in.) long. It
has a fine, needle-like, hollow spear mouth part (stylet; a structure characteristic of plant parasitic
nematodes and lacking in free-living and animal parasitic nematodes) that is pushed into the plant
cell.
The worm forces enzymes through the stylet into the cell where cell components are digested and
then drawn back into the nematode's digestive system through the stylet. Of the more than 220
known species in this genus, the most important species on flowering plants and ornamentals are
Aphelenchoides besseyi, A. fragariae, and A. ritzemabosi.
Many different plants are susceptible to Aphelenchoides including African violet, Anthurium, Boston
fern Begonia, Crossandra, Cyclamen, Gloxinia, Dahlia, Gerbera,Hibiscus, Lantana, Mimulus,
Marigold, Geranium, Cineraria, Primula, Ranunculus, Thanksgiving Cactus, India rubber tree (
Ficus elastica ) and iris.
The nematodes can remain on the outside of the plant or can force its way into leaf and stem
tissue. Wetness on the stems and leaves provides an excellent environment for their
movement.

Splashing water during irrigation readily moves the nematodes from leaf to leaf and plant to plant.
In some cases such as certain types begonias (Elatior), it can move into the water conducting
tissue and develop large populations without causing any symptoms. Optimum
temperatures for foliar nematode development are between 21 and 24C (70-75F).
The nematode reproduces by laying eggs which hatch to release a larva. The larva molts as it
enlarges and develops into a mature worm.
Symptoms
Yellow, brown to purple to black wet-looking areas on leaves
Angular, yellow areas on the leaf bounded by the veins of the leaf
General yellowing, reddening, or bronzing of leaves, not limited in shape by veins (begonia)
Death of leaves that remain attached to the plant
Cupping and distortion of leaves (African violets especially)
Small, sunken areas on the undersides of leaves
Stunting of the entire plant
Chlorosis similar to iron deficiency
Plants with symptoms characteristically occur in scattered clumps because of the splashing of
nematodes from one or two plants to neighboring plants.

Chrysanthemums damaged leaves

Marigold damaged leaves and branches

Management
Plant nematode-free material.
Discard infected plants.
Do not use overhead watering.
Space plants well so that any splashing during watering is minimized and plant surfaces
dry quickly.
If foliar nematodes are encountered, examine symptomless begonias for the presence of
the worms. While some insecticides greatly suppress the activity of foliar nematodes and
can reduce the nematode population, none are known to totally eliminate foliar nematode
from an infected plant. In some cases, the rate of insecticide necessary to suppress this
nematode is phytotoxic to the plant.
Recommended Pesticide
While a bit over-simplified, it is fair to say that there are only three types of diseases that might
strike the plants in your home landscape. There are fungal diseases, bacterial diseases, and viral
diseases.
In the majority of cases, there is absolutely nothing you can do about a viral disease or a bacterial
disease once it is established. The plant will die, and often in pretty short period of time.
The best choice is to remove by cutting diseased parts from the plant and its destruction by
burning. Infection on blossom could be reduced effectively by 2 sprays of Carbendazim 10ml in

1iliter water at 15 day intervals. Its foliar infection can be managed by 2 sprays of Copper
Oxychliride 30gm in 1liter water.
FUNGAL DISEASES
What is very important to understand is FUNGAL DISEASES CANNOT BE CURED! You cannot
bring back that part of the plant that has turned brown or yellow or lost its leaves. FUNGAL
DISEASE CAN BE STOPPED FROM SPREADING ANY FURTHER AND IT CAN BE
PREVENTED NEXT YEAR IF YOU KNOW WHEN IT IS LOOMING.
Fungicides are not a cure. They are a tool to stop the spread of a fungal disease that has occurred
or they are a tool to use to prevent an expected fungal disease from getting started.
As you can see at the left, you have a choice between "natural fungicides" and "synthetic
fungicides" depending on your personal preferences. We need to point out that at this point the
natural fungicides only deal with ornamental plants and some food crops.
Dealing With Fungal Disease
Disease fungi are microscopic plants that take their energy from the plants on which they live-they parasitize the plants in the landscape. Fungal diseases exhibit a number of distinctive
symptoms, often indicated by their names. Downy mildew and powdery mildew create pale
patches on the leaves of the plants. Rusts can be identified by their rusty color on leaves. Leaf
spot causes round, yellow spots on the leaves that darken over time. Not all fungal diseases are
found in all parts of the country. When you spot a problem in a plant, rule out possible
environmental problems before looking for a fungal cause.
Symptoms of Fungal Diseases
The following symptoms may indicate a fungal disease of some kind:
Pale patches on leaves.
Chlorosis (yellowing of leaves), specifically round spots or irregular yellow-green spots that
darken with time.
Dead spots or sections on leaves.
Water-soaked or greasy appearance on leaves or stems.
Rust-colored spots.
Sudden death of small seedlings.
Fungal diseases tend to spread over the entire plant somewhat slowly, occurring over weeks
rather than days, whereas problems caused by viruses or bacteria spread quite quickly. This
does not mean you can wait to confirm you have a fungal problem, because the low toxic
fungicides are not very effective in controlling the disease if it is well established in the plant.

Control of Fungal Diseases.

Treatment of fungal diseases varies depending on the disease. In some cases, you should
simply remove the affected leaves. However, in most cases, you should leave the plant alone
and begin some control strategy using fungicidal sprays or dusts.
Fungicides are not a cure. They are a tool to stop the spread of a fungal disease that has
occurred or they are a tool to use to prevent an expected fungal disease from getting started.
Two sprays of Thiophanate methyl (FUNGO) or Carbendazim (BAVISTEN) (10gm in 1 liter
water) to be given with a gap of 10 days.
Some Tips:
Zip up your seeds
I saw this in action, so it is very effective. Don't fiddle around with paper bags, use zip lock bags
(left-over ones from lunches will do). To catch the ripe seeds, put bag over seed-head of say,
broccoli or onions etc and zip up.
With this method you don't have to worry about rain and it seems to help ripen the seed heads well.
Watch out for condensation and don't store the seeds in the bag unless it's bone dry.
Essential information about controlling garden pests organically
Before you read the specific A-Z list of pests and controlling them; here is a summary of what
exactly organic garden pest control mixtures consists of and how they work:
o

Smell: Garlic, tobacco, rhubarb, fish and other strong smelling substances that are used to
repel pests.

Gases and odor molecules: Many plants give off natural odors or have volatile oils which
some bugs find unpleasant. Often these odors or oils are a warning to bugs that the plant
contains its own built in insecticide. Concoctions made from these plants will deter pests.

Heat or fumes: Chilies, kerosene, methylated spirits, salt etc, will burn, harm or kill pests.

Oil: Mineral oil, vegetable oils and proprietary oils, such as those made with cottonseed oil,
will suffocate soft-bodied pests.

Soap: Natural vegetable based soaps or detergents are added to sprays in small amounts
to make them stick to plants. Many insects dislike and are harmed by soap also.

Physical: Barriers such as plant collars, netting, surface materials or strips; traps, and
simple hand removal, are often very good garden pest deterrents or removal methods.