AK-MODELS.

com
Su-27 Flanker Version 1.0

AK Models, 1611 Wetherby Dr., Iowa City, IA 52240

(319) 358-1399
E-mail akm@ak-models.com
This product is sold with exclusion of all warranty expressed or
Implied, statutory or otherwise. Buyer assumes all risk of use.
This kit is not a toy; all safety measures have to be taken during construction and
operation.

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 NOTES BEFORE BEGINNING CONSTRUCTION
This manual was written for established kit builders and might not cover all of the basic
building steps or techniques. We assume you already have built several kits and familiar
with basic model airplane kit construction concept. Any references to right or left refers
to your right or left as if you were seated in the cockpit. To build good flying models, you
need a good straight building board. Crooked models do not fly well! Cover the top
surface of the building board with a piece of celotex-type wallboard or foam board, into
which pins can be easily pushed. Do not hesitate to use plenty of pins during assembly to
hold drying parts in their correct position. When pinning and gluing parts directly over
the full-size plans, cover the plan with wax paper to prevent gluing the parts to the plans.
Do not use a ballpoint pen for making marks on the model during construction. If not
sanded off, these ink marks will show through the model’s final finish. Use pencil instead
of a pen. The laser-cut balsa and plywood parts can be identified using the plans. Mark
the identification or the corresponding parts before removing them from the laser-cut
sheets. This booklet divides the construction into sub-assemblies: fuselage, wing, etc.
Read each section carefully and identify all of the parts before starting on particular sub-
assembly. Please check to be sure that your kit is complete; that it is not missing any
parts. If you do find that parts are missing, or if you are having trouble identifying parts
please let us know. Pictures in this manual and on enclosed CD clarify and detail many of
the assemblies shown on the plan, and the manual CD and plans should be used together
during construction. Pictures in the manual might be slightly different than described in
the text; text should be used in this case.
To build SU-27 Flanker kit you will also need:
2-1/2” Spinner (GreatPlanes GPMQ4521)
Engine 2-Stroke .90 (O.S.91FX is recommended)
Engine mount w. hardware (Dave Brown 60FS-6004 recommended)
(1) - 14 oz Fuel tank (Du-Bro 414)
Medium Fuel Tubing (Du-Bro 222)
Retracts Spring Air HD101 firewall mounted (required for retract version).
(3) - Wheels: 2.75” (Du-Bro 275T)
(1) Axle for Front gear (Du-Bro 615)
(6) - 5/32 wheel collars (Du-Bro 598)
(1 set) Sullivan Push-rods (Blue/Gold #506)
(9) 2-56 - 12” Push-rods and (Du-Bro 801)
(4) 4-40 - 12” Push-rods (Du-Bro 802)
2-3 Rolls of Covering
5 Channels Radio w. 7 Servos (1of them is mini servo)
(2) 1/2A Control Horns (Du-Bro 107)
(4) Nylon Torque Bearings (GreatPlanes GPMQ4270)
(4) E/Z Adjust Horn Bracket (Du-Bro 557)
(10) Plastic or steel clevises.

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 Assemble Elevator and rudder.
• Locate all parts for stabilizer and vertical fins.

• Place assembly over the plan and mark second 90-

degree bend. NOTE: left and right sides are different,
threaded ends must be pointing UP. Be sure to have
• Build horizontal stabilizer by placing all of the parts over
two plastic bearings on the rod make a second bend
the plan (except triangle rear brace) and gluing them
on each rod. Cut rods to length shown on the plan.
together.

• Cut slots for plastic bearings in to horizontal

• Take two 2-40 rods and mark 1-1/4 from the threaded
stabilizer and permanently install torque rod
end, make 90-degree bend as marked. Slide two plastic
assemblies as per plans.
bearings on each rod.

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 • Round L.E. and T.E of horizontal stabilizer and
elevators as per plans (see fuselage side view).
• Build vertical fins by placing VF1 and VF2 over the
plans and gluing parts together.

• Keeping horizontal stabilizer on building board over the

plan glue in place triangle rear brace.

• Cut hinge slots in to vertical fins and rudders.

Temporary install rudders to vertical fins.
• From 4/40 rods bend rudder torque rods as shown on
the plans. Cut 2”x2” pieces of wax paper and put
aside. Cut 1/8 groove in to forward edge of the VF3.

• Cut hinge slots as per plans in to horizontal stabilizer and

elevators. Drill holes in to elevators to except torque rods.
Temporary install elevators to horizontal stabilizer.

• Epoxy torque rods one at a time using 15 min. epoxy

in to VF3 groove. Use Chap Stick to lubricate torque
rod where it will be placed in to epoxy, fill groove
with epoxy and place rods making sure threaded part
of the rod is at the bottom of VF3.
• Wrap epoxy groove with wax paper to help keep
epoxy in place while epoxy is drying. Place assembly
on the flat building board and pin down. Use 3/32
scrap balsa to keep torque rods lifted of the building
board and centered in the epoxy groove and close to
open end of the groove while drying.

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• Let assembly dry for 15 min. then remove from building • Glue together side formers F5 & F6 with their
board and carefully rotate torque rod to brake loose from plywood doublers.
epoxy.
• Repeat steps for the other side.
Fuselage Construction.
• Join fuselage bottom sheeting (FB).

• Join outside engine sides (OE).

• Glue together1/8 balsa wing plate and 1/16 plywood

doublers making right and left sides.

• Join inside engine sides (IE).

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 • Cover plans with wax paper. Have fuselage markings
on the outside pin fuselage sides over the plan using
rear tabs only at this time. Temporary install F8 and
pin to fuselage sides.

• Join one fuselage side (FS), and then join second side
directly over the first side (be sure to use wax paper as a
barrier between sides).

• Push together front ends of fuselage sides end check

for even alignment. Both sides should meet perfectly
at the centerline on the plan.

• This manual covers only Retract version of the SU-27

Flanker. Fixed gear options are left to the builder.
• Install front gear retract unit to rear of F3 former.

• Temporary install formers F2- F7 so former marks

face forward and pin to fuselage sides. Install FCG
between F4 and F5.

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• Align fuselage sides over the plan and pin center and front • Sand corners of fuselage sides and T1 thru T4 at the
tabs of the fuselage sides to the building board. angle so that ¼ corners can be installed (see fuselage
• Check placement and alignment of all installed formers cross section for references).
once more and permanently glue entire assembly together.

• Start flush at front of F2 glue FCC in place.

• Locate and permanently install T1 thru T4 beginning with
T1. F9 should be used for proper spacing, BUT do not
glue F9 at this time.

• Glue in place FTC1 and FTC2.

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 • Glue BS to all formers (tack glue only at F4) and
fuselage sides.
• Sand bottom nose section for ¼ corners (NBC).

• Trim top corners to match cross section on the plan.

• Cut 5-3/4” tri-stock to fit and glue as shown on the

plan and picture. Sand flat to fuselage sides and
bottom.

• Un-pin fuselage and remove tabs from fuselage sides.

• Install and align bottom-sheeting (BS) use F9 while
squaring rear of the fuselage, BUT do not glue F9 at this
time.

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• Install and glue NBC in place. Trim flush with side and
bottom fuselage sheeting, BUT do not round at this time.

• It is a good time to sand corners of the fuselage to

match cross section on the plan.
• Place F3, F4 side formers in to their slots on fuselage
sides and pin in place. DO NOT GLUE.
• Temporary install LEX under F3 and F4 and pin in place.
Use LEX as a guide draw line where previously installed
NBC will need to be trimmed.

• Using sharp knife blade remove horizontal stabilizer

slot at the rear of the fuselage.

• Remove side formers and LEX, trim NBC as marked to

create rounded corner.

• Pin fuselage over the plan, it should lay on its front

and rear formers.

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• Install fuselage side formers F1 – F8. Use wing plate (NO
GLUE) to properly position F5, F6 and F7, pin to building
board.

• Install wing plate using aluminum wing tube to make

sure all the tube holes are aligned. Glue wing plate to
all formers it contacts (do not glue VF to formers or
• Slide horizontal stabilizer assembly in to the slot. the wing plate).
Temporary install Vertical Fin (VF) assembly and pin in
place. Make sure F8 former is flat on building board and
well pinned down. Make sure VF sits tight on side F7 and
F8 formers (this will set-up correct horizontal stabilizer
position).

• Remove VF from Fuselage. Install F9 center former

and side formers. Be sure to push F9 up against
horizontal stabilizer. Check alignment and secure
assembly with pins.
• Glue horizontal stabilizer permanently to F8, F9 as
well as to all parts it contacts.
• Once everything aligned and straight tack glue horizontal
stabilizer to back of F8 former in few places.

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• Pin LEX in place and permanently secure with glue to
side formers and fuselage sides. Add 3/16 reinforcement
brace at LEX-Wing plate joint.
• Cut to fit ½ tri-stock to be installed as reinforcement at F5
and F6 joints.
• Sheet rear topsides of the fuselage with laser cut 3/32
sheeting.
• Sheet fuselage topsides directly over the wing plate.
Use Windex to wet both sides of sheeting to keep it
from cracking while forming over side formers, pin
in place and dry it with heat gun.
• Sheet LEX with part sheeting.
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 • Sand T4 sheeting down to make it even with sheeting
above sides of F9.

• Sheet remaining of LEX with part “B” sheeting. Use top

of formers F3 and F4 to set sheeting correctly, glue
sheeting in place. • Flip fuselage up side down, align over the plans and
secure it down with pins thru F9 former.

• Remove fuselage from building board and trim excess • Locate 1x7/8 lite plywood squares, glue pairs
LEX sheeting. together. Install just made wing bolt blocks in to slot
in F5 former. Reinforce with ½ tri-stock as shown.

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• Epoxy retracts plates and use clamps while epoxy is • Install and glue Outside Engine sheeting (OE) as you
drying. Use scrap 3/32 balsa to prevent clamp damage to did in previous step. Do not glue to LEX at this point.
upper sheeting.

• Mark pivot point and drop in main retract units

• Install and glue all bottom parts of the fuselage formers. aligning them with marks on retract plates.

• Be sure to align little tab at F8 former install and glue

Inside Engine (IE) sheeting to all contacting parts.

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• Pin front gear hatch where it is shown on the plans. For • Install struts, axles and tires to retract units.
best results use hatch as a guide to cut out sheeting.

• Checks retract operation and make necessary

• Install 3/16x3/8 hatch support rails as shown. adjustments.
• It is best times to fuel prove gear bay areas with 30
min epoxy or any other preferred method.
• Install and glue main gear bay sheeting in place. Ad
scrap 3/8x3/16 positioned vertically to support
sheeting as shown.

• Install Air tank support and reinforce it with ½ tri-stock.

Install Air tank as shown. Install mini servo and air valve.
Connect all air lines as per retract instructions.

• Glue 1/8 plywood servo screw supports. Install

throttle push rod, install throttle servo and connect
push rod to servo.

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• Glue ½ x 3/8x1 rudder blocks and install rudder servo so • Join BSS and bevel front of it to make it lay flat on
rudder pushrod is has approximately ¼ clearance from LEX. Glue BSS in place.
rear end of servo opening.
• Install steering push rod thru lightning holes at F6 and F7.
Use U-shaped 1/8 plywood bracket to secure pushrods in
place. Make sure there is no “play” once you slide push
rods.

• Check for any last changes you might need to make

inside of engines like air tubing, pushrods, servo
extension etc.)
• Install and glue EB to F6, F7 and F8.

• Glue sheeting support to OE as shown in the picture.

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• Sand F5 bottom to match engine side sheeting. Install
EB1 and glue it in.

• Glue EC in place. Round corners as shown on the

plan.
• Bevel to fit IS so is flat on LEX and side of F5. Glue IS in
place. Use scrap ¼ balsa to fill small opening next to IS.

• Install engine mount. Install engine so front of its

drive washer approximately 5-3/4” from the front of
the F2 former (use provided ¼ mount extension).

• Sand EB and engine sheeting to except corner pieces EC.

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• Tack glue scrap 3/32 strips to the back plate of the spinner
and then center back plate on F1.

• Mark and cut opening for the engine on the right side
of the fuselage. Be sure to start with smaller opening
• Install back plate and rest of the spinner on to engine. and enlarging it as needed to fit your engine. Try to
• With engine installed, glue in place nose top (NT), nose make it neat in appearance as well. Install engine
side (NS) and then nose bottom (NB). once again and use spinners back plate to determent
• Remove engine from the engine mount and install right placement of the 1/16 plywood nose ring. Glue ring
side (NS). in place.

• Sand NT, NS and NB for corner pieces (NBC and NTC).

Trim as needed and glue nose corners in place being
careful not to apply too much force while glue dries.
Roughly trim corners to shape.

• Sand nose section to shape using plans and picture as

a references.

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• Locate all the parts and assemble tail boom, pin together
and glue. Use medium CA from the inside to make glue
joints little easier to trim.
• Remove tail boom from the building board and glue TBS
to sides of TB (see CD for more pictures).
• Join sheeting for TBS, glue sheeting in place. Test fit tail
boom to fuselage and make necessary adjustments.
• Build exhaust cones by placing and gluing one layer
at a time. Use etched marks for alignment. Use thin
CA from outside. Ad 1/16 plywood cap (TC) and
Sand exhaust cones to shape as shown. It is OK to
have cones not perfectly smooth; it will add some
realism to the model.
• Install and glue hatch support (HS) to F8. Install and
glue 1/8-balsa hatch rails to inside of servo area.
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• Trim ABS hatches to fit in place. Mark them as right and • Cut out boom tip pattern from the plan. Use it to
left. Drill two screw holes on each side. Screws should go mark 2X2X3 balsa block on both sides. Use jig saw
in to HS and F9 former. Trim 1/8 sheeting to make to cut one side first, then pin back just cut off pieces
smooth transition. and cut second side.

• Join bottom fins and test fit to fuselage. Sand LE, bottom
and TE of the fins to rounded shape. Do not glue fins to
fuselage until later when covering is done.

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• Tack glue boom tip to tail boom and sand it to final shape
as on the plan. It is a good time to slightly round corners
of the boom assembly and boom sides.

• Trace exhaust pipes on to engine humps, remove

engine humps and trim edges to make nice transition
to fuselage and exhaust cones.
• Use center marks on sides of F9 and engine humps to
correctly place engine humps. Mark humps position on
fuselage.

• From ½ tri-stock cut two 6” long pieces, glue them

flat side out to the bottom of 3/32 sheeting centered
between F7 and F8. This will be added support for
• Pin exhaust cones to fuselage aligning them at the top of vertical fin installation.
engine humps and centering them side to side on bottom
of F9. Install and pin tail boom and check for alignment
by looking at the rear of the plane from about 8 feet.

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• Using 30 min. epoxy glue vertical fins to fuselage and all • Join 4 transition pieces together, try fit and trim as
other parts it is in contact with. Be sure to use 90° tools shown on the picture.
placed directly over F8 former position.

• Trim tri-stock balsa by intakes to create smooth

• Glue VF torque rod assembly. transition.
• Using 1/8 wide file make slots for torque rod on tail
extension (TE). Glue TE in place with thin CA (be sure
not to flood groove too much).

• Attach Install elevator servos and make pushrods.

Note: right servo should be installed first and pushrod

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 made for it. Left servo should be positioned so same
length pushrod can be used as for the right side. Left
servo will be positioned more forward than a right servo.
• From 2-56 rod make rudder pushrod and connect it to
both rudder torque rods. Flat file ½” wide spot on the
connecting rod where EZ-connector will be in contact.
• Mark and cut out fuel tank hatch using hatch as a guide.
• From 3/16x3/8 scrap cut 2 pieces 2-3/4 long. Glue
them as shown to provide hatch screw support. Drill
hatch and screw blocks.
• Mark wing bolt opening and cut using rotary tool (see
plans for location).
Make paper tube.
• From provided tape cut two pieces 18” long. Place
wax paper on the work surface and place paper
(glued side down) at 45° in relation to the aluminum
tube; use string lines on the paper as a visual guide
(See picture).
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• Practice few times to roll the paper tightly on the tube.
• Using wet piece of foam, wet glued side of the paper as
you rolling the tube. Try to roll paper so there is less
wrinkles possible.
• Cut two pieces 9” long. Wet glued side and place it on the
working surface wet side up. Place tube parallel to the
paper this time and roll a second layer.
• Use heat gun to completely dry paper tube, BE SURE
TO KEEP PAPER TUBE ON THE ALUMINUM
TUBE WHILY DRYING.
• Measure 8-3/4” of paper tube and cut paper tube
using sharp knife while paper tube keeping it on the
aluminum tube.
• Make second paper tube.
Wing Assembly.
• Glue1/16 plywood doublers to W1 and W3 using
larger hole as a guide (spar slots will not align as well
as front and back of the rib)). Double 1/16 plywood
wing bolt plates.
• Cover plans and pin main spar in place. Pin all ribs to
main spar and building board. Use W1 guide to set
correct angle for W1 rib, all other ribs should be at
90° to the building board.
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• Slide guide paper tube on to aluminum tube and place it • Install and glue top spar to all ribs making sure W1
thru W1-W3 ribs. Use something to support “free” end of maintains its set angle.
the aluminum tube so it does not lift ribs from the
building board.

• Install and glue 1/16 plywood tube sheer web. Install

all 1/16-balsa laser cut sheer web.
• Install doubled plywood bolt plate at W1 and W2. Check
all parts for proper alignment and permanently glue
together.

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• Install and glue top and bottom laser cut 1/8x1/4 rear
spars. You will need to angle trim bottom spar so it fits
against W7 rib.

• Join 3/32 LE sheeting as shown.

• Trim and install laser cut wing TE and glue in place.

Install laser cut 1/8-balsa reinforcements at W5 and TE.

• Bevel front edge of sheeting so it has a good contact

• From 1/4x1x36 cut 27”long pieces to make wing LE.
Place it on building board at W7 and center it on W1 rib.
Glue LE to all ribs at this time.
with leading edge. Glue sheeting in place by starting
at LE only, then apply glue to all ribs using extended
glue tip and then glue sheeting to main spar using
long sanding bar to help you hold sheeting down
while glue dries.

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• Align with plans and glue in place WS3 sheeting. • Trim as needed and glue laser cut rib caps (provided
oversized intentionally).

• Install and glue WS2, trim as needed WS1 and glue in

place. • Remove wing from building board and turn over.
Install laser cut 1/8 lite plywood wing tube stopper.

• Trim all tabs and rough trim leading edge and wings
sheeting.

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• From 3/8x3/16 leftover cut servo hatch rail, install and
glue rail to W2 and W3.

• Place ¼ Wing Jig over the plan of opposite wing and

securely pin down. Place wing on it aligning wing jig and
TE of the wing directly above it.

• Glue in place WS2 aligning it with servo hatch.

• Bevel TE of the WS3 sheeting (bevel both WS3, see plan

for details). Glue WS3 using opposite side sheeting as a
guide.

• Make and glue LE sheeting in same manner as you

did for opposite side.

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 • Align center of servos shaft with etched line on the
servo hatch, mark position and install 3/8x1/2x3/4
servo blocks as shown. Install servos as shown.

• Try fit and permanently glue WS1.

• Trim as needed and glue laser cut rib caps.

• Remove wing from building board, trim and sand as

needed. Sand wing TE to create airfoil profile matching
plans. • Glue hatch screw blocks as shown on the picture. Use
hatch as a guide to drill screw holes in to blocks.

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 • Remove aileron from building board and cut hinge
• Repeat steps for other side wing. slots in to wing and aileron as shown on the plan.
• Install wings to fuselage. Drill thru Wing Bolt Plate
(WBP) and tap wing bolt blocks (use 1” 4-20 plastic
screws when securing the wing).
Aileron assembly.
• Cover plan and pin aileron base over it.
• Pin in place and glue aileron laser cut LE making sure
Line and marking “TOP” are facing forward. This line
will be used for hinge installation.

• Shape leading edge on aileron as shown on the plan.

• Build opposite side aileron.

• Install all ribs and laser cut horn block.

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• Install servo hatches and connect pushrods to control
horns. Bend pushrods as required achieving aileron
complete range of motion.
• Join pairs of missile rails. Place one assembly next to
wing tip and trim rear end to match wing TE angle. Trim
second missile rail to match first one.
• Round corners of missile rails to create airfoil slick shape.
Try to match both sides as close as possible. Do not glue
missile rails until after the covering.
• Trim canopy by base line and test fit to fuselage, make
necessary adjustments to achieve relaxed fit. Secure
canopy with 5crews (one in front and two on each side).
Optional: Once permanently installing canopy use small
amount of clear calk around canopy base to prevent dirt
and oil from entering.
• Before you install engine, do not forget to fuel proof
nose section, firewall and fuel tank area.
• Install engine and connect throttle push rod. Check
for smooth operation.
• Install fuel tank, use foam around it to reduce
vibration as well as to keep it in-line with thrust line.
• BALANCE your plane once all the hardware is
installed. Move battery pack around to determent best
position to achieve correct balance. Once correct CG
is achieved, balance model laterally (side to side).
CG location on the plan is best for a test flight and
getting used to the model and its flying
characteristics. Once flown to know it well, you
could move CG forward to make model more
responsive, BUT be careful and make small
adjustment at a time! If you push it too far, it will
make plane difficult to fly or not possible to fly at all!
Covering your Model.
• There are many types of covering on the market. As
well as many color schemes for the SU-27. Pick your
favorite covering and decide on the color scheme. Just
keep in mind that SU-27 will be fast flying plane and
color scheme you pick should be well visible to help you
with orientation.
• Follow covering manufacturer recommendations and
cover the model always working from the bottom up and
from rear to the front.
• Be sure to apply covering to control surfaces gaps. It
will increase effectiveness of controls as well as to ad
security and improve looks.
Final assembly.
• Reassemble all the hardware and make final check on
all components. Permanently hinge all control surfaces,
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using 30 min. epoxy on rudder and elevator torque rods.
• Check radio operation and control throws (first number is
for low rates)
• Ailerons: 1-1/4” to 1-1/2” UP and DOWN
• Elevator: 1-1/2” to 2-1/8” UP and DOWN
• Rudder: 1” to 1-1/4” LEFT and RIGHT Enjoy your kit building experience
• Throttle: Full range of throttle. and have fun flying your SU-27
• CHECK BALANCE AS PER PLANS.
Flanker.
PRE-FLIGHT CHECKOUT
Make sure the servos are securely mounted and that the servo
arms have their retaining screws in place. It is also a good idea
to re-check all the push-rod connectors, fuel tank mounting,
fuel lines, wheels; engine mounting, prop and spinner. Range
check the radio as per the manufacturers instructors and make
sure it is fully charged.

DOUBLE CHECK EVERYTHING

YOU CAN THINK OF!
A model and radio that is not prepared and working properly
on the ground before take off will not improve in the air IT
WILL GET WORSE! There is no point in attempting to fly
until everything is 100% correct.
FLYING
The SU-27 was designed for R/C pilots who can keep up with
fast, aerobatics models. Lower time pilots are encouraged to
seek out the help of a more experienced pilot during the first
few flights. Keep the control throws on the low rate settings
and stay at least three mistakes high. Once you get the feel for
the model try a few simple maneuvers like rolls, loops, stall
turns and knife-edge flight. Caution. Until you are familial
with the response time and the shape of the SU-27 leave
yourself plenty of room for recovery. Recovery is never much
of a problem, it can be done as fast as you got in trouble, but
you do need to leave room and time until you’ve got it
together. One other warning, it is very easy to get in the habit
of frying it very close in the deception of “slow speed” and
fast response time combined with a minor mistake during
recovery can get the SU-27 behind you faster than you can
read thins sentence You can endanger yourself, other flyers
and any spectators very easily. Get a little practice and you
will not believe how much fun you will have while still frying
safely.

Please let us know what we could do to

make this kit better.

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