Marion I. Tobler-Rohr
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Marion I. Tobler-Rohr
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Content
I. Introduction to the Manual 1
1. Reasons to write a manual
3. Thanks
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4. Sustainability in industry
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VII
Marion I. Tobler-Rohr
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6. Environmental labeling
6.1. Textile labels
6.1.1. Environmental labels and labelling programs
6.1.2. Mandatory textile labeling
6.1.3. Labels und life cycle
6.1.4. ISO Labels and Environmental Product Declaration
7. Literature
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1. Natural fibers
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1.1. Cotton
1.1.1. Four case studies
1.1.2. Sustainable cotton growing in Texas
1.1.3. Cotton Ginning
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1.3. Wool 97
1.4. Silk 99
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3. Energy
3.1. Energy prime sources
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4. Yarn production
4.1. Staple fiber spinning
4.1.1. Spinning preparation
4.1.2. Ring spinning
4.1.3. Wool
4.1.4. Environmental indicators
5. Fabric production
5.1. Woven fabrics
5.1.1. Processes
5.1.2. Environmental indicators
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6. Chemical treatment
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6.1. Processing
6.1.1. Pre-treatment
6.1.2. Dyeing and Printing
6.1.3. Finishing
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7. Manufacturing
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8.2. Care
8.2.1. Consumers preferences
8.2.2. Laundry ingredients
8.2.3. Professional laundry and private laundry
8.2.4. Environmental indicators in care
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10. Literature
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3.8. Weaving
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3.9. Knitting
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3.10. Finishing
3.10.1. Finishing process technology
3.10.2. BAT of process efficiency
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4. Literature
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2. LCA methodology
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2.2. EcoIndicator 95
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2.3. EcoIndicator 99
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4.2. Transportation
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4.4. Finishing
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4.5. Manufacturing
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4.7. Recycling
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5. LCA Results
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7. Costs
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8.1. Introduction
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8.1.1. The present situation in impact assessment
8.1.2. Theoretical scope of the Ecological Key Figures (EKF)
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9. Literature
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2.1. Politics
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2.5. Economy
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4. Consumer preferences
4.1. How to define customers value
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4.5. Branding
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4.6. Services
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6.1.Consumer segments
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6.3. Branding
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9. Sourcing
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9.2. Outsourcing
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10. Literature
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INDEX 527
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Chapter I Introduction
Introduction to the
Manual
Marion I. Tobler-Rohr
Chapter I Introduction
Marion I. Tobler-Rohr
Chapter I Introduction
nature. But since the beginning it was clear that full LCA was not the solution.
Indicators seemed too vaguely and inventories were often confidential.
Marketing strategies showed that existing methods have failed. My work as
chairwoman in COST action working group on LCA in textiles provided an
insight into European research activities and companys practices of 19
nations. So I took the courage and developed the idea of ecological key figures.
They are based on equations for individual processes along the value added
chain, taking into account main specific circumstances in production as well as
basic environmental impact assessment. I believe future oriented companies
will prefer this instrument for quick calculation of environmental impacts. The
scientific evaluation will state it as a simplified method, not as accurate as LCA,
but based on available data from textile industry.
In Chapter VI a completely different viewpoint is introduced: the marketing
perspective. As marketing is overwhelming in its economic importance,
the consequences for sustainable development are indirectly influenced
by its decisions. The push strategy coming from the value added chain has
almost disappeared in favor of a pull strategy from product development and
marketing, establishing new rules by working in a global environment. During
many visits and a sabbatical in the USA I had the opportunity to add the
American perspectives of the large merchants to the one of Swiss and European
small and medium sized companies. Also markets and consumers behavior
are compared in this chapter, allowing drawing some predictions from one
to the other market. This chapter is important for consumers and product
development. It must be considered also for scale and scope definitions of
scientific studies, if they should be realty based.
Literature is cited after every chapter. There will be also some links who
allow getting actual versions of documents cited in this book.
3. Thanks
First of all I want to thank Prof. Urs Meyer who offered me the opportunity to
enter a new research area, to learn about textile processing and machinery and
business processes. In his very special style Urs Meyer led his staff including
me towards high responsibility in textile research. The cooperation with textile
Marion I. Tobler-Rohr
Chapter I Introduction
During my annual stays in the USA I could take benefit of many discussions
with Profs. Buvanesh Goshwami and John Abernathy at Clemson University,
with Kay Obendorf and Prof. Anil Netravali at Cornell University and with
Prof. Peggy Gutman at Philadelphia University. John Price and Leo Cui from
USDA New Orleans supported my research directions with valuable critical
remarks.
Prof. Subhash Batra from NCSU, who nominated me as member of fiber
society, assisted my kindly with his outstanding experience in organizing my
sabbatical at the college of textiles. During my stay in 2003 Prof. Nancy Cassil
made her countless contacts to the textile industry available to me and earns
the merit of making me understand US textile marketing.
Since 2001 I met many textile researchers from all over Europe during COST
action 628 who allowed me to learn about the research in the 19 countries
involved. First of all I wish to thank the chairwoman Prof. Eija Nieminen
from Technical University in Tampere who started the action and enabled
the European networking. She trusted me as much as to lay the guidance
of working group 1 in my hands. Special thanks go to Dr. Maria Walenius
Henriksson who was not only an excellent co-chair but became also a friend.
I experienced great cooperation from many colleagues when coaching Task
Force BAT within COST action. I cannot name all my colleagues in COST
action who were willing to share their research but I highly appreciate all their
cooperation.
For over 15 years I had the benefit in working with ETH students, who
dedicated their education to textiles and environment and worked hard for
good research results. Many of them found their way into this manual. Thank
you all! Helene Zurbuchen from our staff at ETH assisted me in professional
manner in quality measurement of fibers and yarns. Many valuable inputs
from our staff have entered my research activities at ETH.
Working parallel to my academic career as a consultant in my own company
provided me with experiences; I would never have attired in research. I
consider the cooperation with our business partners as a privilege and wish to
thank them for their valuable partnership.
Marion I. Tobler-Rohr