With a basic understanding of schematics, a schematic can be used to troubleshoot

why an operator is not working. The most important tool for a field technician is a
working and reliable voltage multi-meter. The meter should be able to read AC and
DC voltages, and continuity. Continuity checks if a circuit is complete or not.
Remember, for an electrical device to activate, the electrical circuit or path to it
must be complete. Again, we will use diagram 10118-1 to illustrate, assuming a
120VAC operator. This diagram uses AC voltage, so the meter should be set to VAC
or V~. When using a meter, polarity does not matter. Also, do not check to ground,
it will not provide an accurate reading (DC voltage is checked to ground).
The first step is to check if the operator is getting properly powered. Place one lead
at L1, the other at L2:

The meter should read the operators rated line voltage, +/- 10%. If there is no
voltage, check the operators breaker.
Mechanical operators use a centrifugal start switch in the motor. Voltage to the IR
relay is feed through this start switch:

When the unit is powered and the IR relay is energized, the contacts on it close
allowing the open and close buttons to work:

If the operator has power, but the open or close buttons do not work, check that the
IR relay is getting line voltage at the two black wires on the coil of the relay. A
common problem with mechanical motors is that the start switch can stick open,
cutting off voltage to the IR relay. A typical symptom for a stuck start switch is the
unit will not respond to open or close commands. When pressing open, the R1 relay
will click; there will be no response with the close button.
Another possible issue is that the transformer is not supplying 24VAC control
voltage. With the meter, test the yellow and brown wire leads on the secondary side
of the transformer; there should be 24VAC (Figure 1). If there is no voltage, test the

black and white wires to the primary side of the transformer, there should be the
same line voltage as seen at L1 and L2 (Figure 2).

Figure 1:

Figure 2:

Let us run through the steps for checking a circuit. For example, the door is closed
and will not open. The R1 relay clicks but the open contactor does not engage.
The first step is to remove all external accessory wiring, including the three button
control station. Ensure the factory jumper wire is in place at terminals 4 and 5, and
then install a second jumper wire between terminals 3 and 4. Take another jumper
wire and short terminals 1 to 3 for a second and see if the door opens. If it does, the
push buttons or the wiring is the issue.
If it does not open, test for voltage at terminal 5 and the wire nut. This test verifies
the transformer is good and the interlock (if equipped) is working.

If there is voltage, check terminal 1 to 3. The open part of the open control circuit, it
should have 24VAC.

If there is no voltage, the open button will not work. Test the open limit switch next.
Read each orange wire on the limit to terminal 3; each should show 24VAC. Another
way to test the limit switch is to remove the orange wires from it and stick them
together, this bypasses the switch.

If one orange wire has voltage, but the other does not, replace the limit switch. If
both have voltage, check the contactor. Read A2 to terminal 3, then A1 to terminal
3; each should have 24VAC.

If A2 has voltage, but A1 does not, the coil of the contactor is damaged, replace the
contactor. This is very rare.
Next, check terminal 3 to the orange and yellow wires on the IR relay.

If there is no voltage at the yellow wire and terminal 3, trace back to 13NO on the
open contactor, making sure the wires are connected. If the yellow wire has voltage
but the orange wire does not, check that the wires are on the C (common) and NO
(normally open) contacts. You can also bypass the IR relay but touching the orange
and yellow wires together. If they are on the correct contacts, and the relay has line
voltage to the coil, replace the relay.
Similar steps can be taken to check the close circuit. The close circuit also has an
additional set of contacts from the R1 relay. These contacts are NC. To test the R1
relay, check terminal 3 to each of the purple wires on the relay.

If one purple wire has voltage, but the other does not, double check that all external
accessories are removed so an accessory is not giving an open command. Remove
one of the red wires from the R1 relay, and then check each purple wire again. If
only one still has voltage, make sure they are on the C and NC contacts. If they are,
replace the relay.