FABRIC FORMATION PROCESSES [MINGGU KE 10]

Basic fabric constructions consist of three main kinds namely: Plain, Twill and
Sateen.
Spun Yarn, Filament Yarn

Warping

Sizing/Slashin
g

Weft yarn

Knitting

Prim and
Cones

(Weft or Warp)

Weaving

Fabric

For warp yarn

Sizing/Slashing=>solution forms a coating that protects the yarn against
snagging or abrasion during weaving.
For coating natural and synthetic yarn usually size used Polyvinyl
alcohol (PVA), starch, oil and wax etc.
The major components of the loom are the warp beam, heddles,
harnesses, shuttle, reed and take-up roll.

In the loom, yarn processing includes; shedding, picking, battening and

taking up.
Shedding =>is the raising of the warp yarns to form a shed through
which the filling yarn, carried by the shuttle can be
inserted.
Picking => as the harnesses raise the heddles, which raise the warp yarns
the shed is created.
Battening => as the shuttle moves across the loom laying down the fill
yarn.
Taking-up=> fabric must be wound on a cloth beam.
Shuttle => The filling yarn in inserted through the shed by a small
carrier device.
Shuttleless Looms include; water-jet looms(speed 400-600 pick/mnt),
air-jet looms(800-1000 pick/mnt), rapier looms(510
pick/mnt) and projectile looms(500-600 pick/mnt).
Knitting
Knitted fabrics may be constructed by using hooked needles to interlock
one or more sets of yarns through a set of loop.
Knitted fabric can used for hosiery, underwear, sweaters, slacks, coats,
rugs, and other home furnishings.
Weft knitting => Weft knitting uses one continuous yarn to form
courses, or rows of loops across a fabric.
Warp knitting => Warp knitting represents the fastest method of producing
fabric from yarn.

PERTEMUAN MINGGU 11

CALCULATING PERCENTAGE COMPOSITIONS FOR THE

NEW FABRIC

When several different yarns with differing fiber composition

are combined in one fabric, the resulting fiber composition for the
new fabric has to be calculated. In either case it is important for
designer to understand the procedure.

Example:
Fabric is made from three yarns namely;
Yarn (a) is a cotton/acrylic blend =>50% cotton/50% acrylic
Yarn (b) is a linen/cotton blend => 60% linen/ 40% cotton
Yarn (c) is 100% acrylic
A piece of the fabric weighs 400 grams
To work out the percentage composition of the fibers in the fabric
it is necessary to rove the fabric. The resulting un-roved yarns are
weighed as yarns (a), (b) and (c) it is found that;
Yarn (a) weighs 175 grams
Yarn (b) weighs 125 grams
Yarn (c) weighs 100 grams
From this information we can work out the percentage
composition of yarns in the fabric and therefore the percentage
composition of the fibers.

The percentage composition of yarns in the fabric:

Yarn (a) as a percentage is 175 x 100 = 43.75%

400
Yarn (b) as a percentage is 125 x 100 = 31.25%
400
Yarn(c) as a percentage is 100 x 100 = 25%
400
The percentage composition of fibers in the fabric:
43.75% of the fabric is made up of yarn (a).
This yarn is 50% cotton/50% acrylic
% cotton = 50% of 43.75% = 21.87%
% acrylic = 50% of 43.75% = 21.87%

31.25% of the fabric is made up of yarn (b). This yarn is 60%

linen/40% cotton.
% linen = 60% of 31.25% = 60 x 31.25% = 18.75%
100
% cotton = 40% of 31.25% = 40 x 31.25% = 12.50%
100
25% of fabric is made up of yarn (c). This yarn is 100% acrylic

% acrylic = 100% of 25% = 25%

To get the percentage composition of the fibers in the fabric we

must add together the percentage compositions as established:

% cotton = 21.87% + 12.5% = 34.37% ~ 34% ]

% acrylic = 21.86% + 25% = 46.87% ~ 47%
nearest whole
%linen = 18.75% ~ 19%

] to the
] number

Alternatively, the fiber composition can be worked out as below:

Yarn (a) weights 175bgrams and is 50% cotton/50% acrylic.

Therefore weight of cotton grams is 50% 0f 175 = 87.5 grams
and
Weight of acrylic is 50% of 175 grams = 87.5 grams

Yarn (b) weight 125 grams and is 60%, linen 40% cotton;
Therefore weight of linen is 60% of 125 grams = 60 x 125 = 75
grs
100
And weight of cotton is 40% of 125 grams = 40/100 x 125 =
50grs

Yarn (c) weighs 100 grams and is 100% acrylic;

Therefore weight of acrylic 100 grams.

The weights of the fibers are therefore:

Cotton =>87.5 grams + 50 grams = 137.5 grams
Acrylic =>87.5 grams + 100 grams = 187.5 grams
Linen => 75 grams

And finally, the percentage composition are:

% Cotton = 137.5 x 100 = 34.38 = 34%

400
% acrylic = 187.5 x 100 = 46.88 =47%
400
% linen = 75 x 100 = 18.75 = 19%
400

Analysis Fabric Formations

Struktur Kain (Fabric Structure)
30 cd x 30 cd x 49
68
x 68
Jumlah warp yarn (benang lusi)

= 3330 helai

Panjang warp yarn

= 300 yard

Mengkeret warp yarn (benang lusi)

= 7,09%

Mengkeret weft (benang pakan)

= 8,50%

Waste/afval proses warping(hani)

= 0,25%

Waste.afval sizing (kanji)

= 0,64%

Hasil kain grey(mentah)

= 300 : 1,142 = 277,5 yard

Nomer sisir ditentukan

= 62,5

Lebar bag.yang diproses

= 3330 : 62,5 x 2,54 cm = 135,3 cm

Harga benang/kg (asumsi)

= $ US 400 x Rp 9000 = Rp 19.841,27

181,44

1 bale benang beratnya 181,44 kg, dan 1 dolar Rp 9000.(asumsi)

Kebutuhan benang

= 300 x 3330 x 1,142 = 18,14 kg

30 x 840 x 22,046

Cost
Harga benang

: Rp 17.361 x 181,4 kg

Harga bahan pembantu proses: Rp 172,36 x 300

Biaya proses

= Rp 359.920,64
= Rp

51.708

: Rp 58,42 x 300
= Rp 17.526
______________________________________
Jumlah biaya
= Rp 429.154.64
PPN 10 %
= Rp 42.914.46
______________________________________
Total biaya
= Rp 472.070.10