Contents

Topic 1: Knowing basics of stitching.............................................................3

Temporary Stitch.............................................................................................. 3
Permanent Stitch.............................................................................................. 4
Topic 2: Basic Embroidery Stitches...............................................................8
Introduction to Embroidery............................................................................... 8
Types of Embroidery Stitches........................................................................... 8
Topic 3: Knowledge in Sewing Machine and Maintenance......................10
Parts of Sewing Machine................................................................................. 10
Common Machine Problems...........................................................................11
Topic 4: Stitching and its Refinement & Tools and Equipments.............15
Important Terms for Cutting & Tailoring..........................................................15
Tools and Equipment...................................................................................... 16
Topic 5: Body Measurement.........................................................................20
Method of Correct Measuring.........................................................................20
Precautions to be taken before Measurement................................................20
Measuring Chart............................................................................................. 22
Topic 6: Principles of Drafting Method.......................................................24
Drafting Methods............................................................................................ 24
Terminology used in Drafting..........................................................................24
Topic 7: Principles of Paper Patterns..........................................................24
Introduction.................................................................................................... 24
Benefits of Paper Pattern................................................................................ 24
Precautions while making Paper Pattern.........................................................24
Topic 8: Fundamentals methods of Cutting and Stitch............................25
Instructions for sewing................................................................................... 25
Topic 9: Sewing of Petticoat.........................................................................26
Method........................................................................................................... 26
Drafting of Petticoat.................................................................................. 26
Topic 10: Sewing of Lehnga..........................................................................27
Method........................................................................................................... 27
Drafting of Lehnga.......................................................................................... 27
Topic 11: Different Type of Neck Pattern...................................................29
Demonstration with Picture............................................................................29
Topic 12: Sewing of Kurta............................................................................. 30
Method........................................................................................................... 30
Drafting of Kurta............................................................................................. 31

Topic 13: Sewing of Salwar...........................................................................32

Method........................................................................................................... 32
Drafting of Salwar........................................................................................... 33
Topic 14: Sewing of Blouse...........................................................................34
Method........................................................................................................... 34
Topic 15: Sewing of Blouse...........................................................................36
Method........................................................................................................... 36
Drafing of Cholicut Blouse.............................................................................. 37
Topic 16: Bag Making..................................................................................... 38
Method of Making Bag.................................................................................... 38
Drafting of Bag............................................................................................... 38

Trade: Dress Designing for Women

Topic 1: Knowing basics of stitching
Teaching Pedagogy: Theory and Practical

Content: Types of Stitching

Introduction: To stitch a beautiful garment various steps have to be undertaken. Aft
taking measurements and cutting the cloth accordingly, we need to stitch the vario
pieces together with the help of different types of stitches. Attaching two or mo
pieces of cloth together with the help of a needle and thread, by taking the threade
needle up and down through two pieces of cloth is what forms a stitch. Care shou
be taken to thread only a requisite amount of thread through the needle so that
does not tangle at the time of forming stitches. Like any other profession, tailorin
also has some basic rules and tenets following which is an absolute must, an
following are some of these rules:
It is necessary to have knowledge about basic stitches before proceeding to constru
a garment because:
a) To make cut pieces of fabric into a garment one has to attach them with the help
stitches like basting.
b) There are various types of fabric available in the market today. To be able to stitch a
of them successfully, we need to hold them together temporarily. For e.g. Nylon clot
silks etc.
At times the basic stitches are used to give a neat finish to the garment like hemmin
Types of Stitching:

Temporary Stitch: Temporary stitches are those that are used to loosely attach tw
pieces of cloth to ensure that pieces fit together, darts are appearing at the rig
points. These stitches are opened out after stitching the garment. These also help
keep
pieces in places while being stitche
These
are of various types, like:
1)

Basting stitch: This is used to join tw

pieces of cloth together. This helps
keep slippery material in a straight li
together while stitching.

Method: Basting is done using a single thread. After threading the needle with a
appropriate length of thread, the needle is taken in and out of the two pieces of clo
at some distance, throughout the required length
1a. Even basting: All stitches are of equal length. This is achieved by taking an equ
quantity of thread for the upward as well as downward stitch, at equal distances.
1b. Uneven basting: All the stitches are at varying distance but of the same lengt
i.e. the length of thread taken for upward and downward stitch is the same but
different distance from each other.
1c. Zigzag basting: When the cloth is slippery or a lining cloth is to be attached, the
this zigzag stitch is used to keep the two pieces together.

2. Thread Marks: This is a type of temporary stitch, which is removed after th

garment is stitched. This is used when you cannot use a pencil or chalk, to mark th
cloth. Sewed in a very loose manner, one stitch is small, and the next one larger. It
usually made with a double thread, but is always made on a double layered cloth. Th
stitches are adjoining to each other. Made in a loose manner, the needle is taken o
from a determined distance and then again inserted in the same position and the
the second stitch taken with a certain looseness in the thread.

3.

Diagonal Stitch: Diagonal basting is

series
of
parall
horizontal stitches that
produce diagonal floats of thread on t
top layer of fabric. This stitch is mo
often used in tailoring to hold fabr
layers together (not along a stitchi
line). The stitches control the shifting
fabric during pressing, fitting and construction.

Permanent Stitch
1.

Hemming: Used on almost eve

garment. Can be replaced by a simp
running stitch also, but to enhance t
beauty of a garment, hemming is used as a most important stitch. This is almo
invisible on the right side of the garment and as very small stitches on the wron
side.

Method: As single thread is put in the needle and a very small margin of the cloth
taken or a single strand taken from the turned in surface. The needle is passe
through the single strand and through the surface of the cloth to give a neat edg
and finishing touch. Used on sleeves, neck, skirts etc.

2.

Back Stitch: Used to attach tw

pieces of cloth together, by using
handmade stitch. It has been us
since the time when the machi
was
not yet in invented. This is believ
to
have greater flexibility and is ve
strong. This stitch can also be us
easily on a bias cloth. Mo
important use is on churid
pajamas, the stitch is different from its right and wrong side.

Method: A crease is created on the edge of the two pieces of cloth that need to b
joined together. A small margin is taken on top and bottom and small stitches take
close together.

3. Button Hole: Of utmost importance in the tailoring trade, as it is used on almost

types of garments ladies, mens and children. There is a need to keep an openin
somewhere on the garment for ease of wearing and taking off. Most of su
openings are closed with the help of buttonhole stitches. The button hole is alwa
made on the top portion. The buttonhole stitch is used to finish the button hole.
is made on two or more layers of cloth. The button hole has a slight curve on on
side known as the fan and an edge on the other known as the bar.

Method: First choose the distance between each button hole. Then keeping th
diameter of the button in mind, use the tip of a scissor to cut holes in the cloth.
ensure that no, loose strands come out finish the edge with a temporary stitc
Always cut the button hole in the direction of the grain line. Then using a sing
thread finish the edge with a buttonhole stitch keeping a little extra tension on th
fan side to make a kind of chain stitch is then pressed down once the buttonhole
finished.

4. Eyelets: A hook and eye is used as an out-of-sight closure on garments. Hea

duty hook and eyes are used on the waistband of trousers. This closure lays fl
and provides a strong secure hold. Smaller hook and eyes are used on garments

prevent gaps such as at the top of a zipper. The zipper rarely goes to the very edg
of the garment because it would be unsightly and uncomfortable. By adding a ho
and eye closure above a zipper, you can keep the same seam line and prevent
gap at the top of the zipper.
5.
6.

7.

8.

5. Hook Button: An opening can be closed with other methods apart from a butto

and buttonhole. One of these is the hook and eye. There are hooks of differe
sizes available to suit different purposes and garments like trousers or blouse
The hook is usually fixed half a point behind the edge of the belt. This is fixe
using the buttonhole stitch. It is fixed from two edges below and one point abo
like a bow. The simple hooks are best used with an eye made from thread by han
using a button hole stitch. The big hooks used for trousers usually come with
readymade eye of metal which is also affixed using a buttonhole stitch.

6. Button: The various types of buttons available in the market differ in that th

have different number of holes 2 or 4. The method for fixing them remains th
same. The spot where the button needs to be fixed is determined and then th
needle is taken out first from one and then the other to properly fix the butto
There should be a little looseness in the stitch so that the button can be eas
passed through the button hole.

Trade: Dress Designing for Women

Topic 2: Basic Embroidery Stitches
Teaching Pedagogy: Theory and Practical
Content: Chain, Stem, Blanket and Herring Bone
Introduction to Embroidery:
Hoops are made of metal, plastic or wood, and come in different sizes and
colors. They hold the fabric taut while you sew, ensuring even stitches.
Embroidery needles, or crewel needles, have a long eye to accommodate
several strands of floss. The smaller the size, the longer the needle. Use a large
size for heavyweight fabrics and a small size for lightweight fabrics.
Embroidery scissors are often between 31 2"- to 41 2"-long to ensure proper
clipping of even the smallest threads.
Types of Embroidery Stitches:
1. Stem Stitch: Stem Stitch: Working from the left to right, bring the floss up from
the fabric wrong side. Take a straight stitch, leaving the needle on the fabric
wrong side. Bring the needle to the fabric right side, slightly to the right of where
it first emerged.

2. Chain Stitch: Chain stitch is a sewing and embroidery technique in which a series
of looped stitches form a chain-like pattern. The Basic Chain stitch is made by first
sending the needle down through the material. Then, as the needle rises upward,
the friction of the thread against the fabric is sufficient to form a small loop on
the underside of the material. That loop is caught by a circular needle which is
beneath the work. The machine then moves the material forward projecting the
loop on the underside from the previous stitch. The next drop of the needle goes
through the previous loop. The circular needle then releases the first loop and
picks up the new loop and the process repeats.

3. Blanket Stitch: The blanket stitch is a stitch used to reinforce the edge of thick
materials. Depending on circumstances, it may also be called a whip stitch or
a
crochet stitch. It is defined as "A
decorative stitch used to finish
an unhemmed blanket. The stitch
can be seen on both sides of the
blanket."[

4. Herring Bone: It is a stitching pattern consisting of columns of short parallel lines,

with all the lines in one column sloping one way and all the lines in the next
column sloping the other way so as to resemble the bones in a fish, for example as
used in the weave of cloth.

Trade: Dress Designing for Women

Topic 3: Knowledge in Sewing Machine and Maintenance
Teaching Pedagogy: Theory and Practical
Content: Parts of Machine with Diagram

Parts of Sewing Machine:

It is important for the beginner to know and recognize the different parts of the sewing machin
Arm

The horizontal upper part of the head which has the mechanism for
handling upper thread and driving the needle.
Back Stitch A lever located at the lower right hand side of the machine and its basic
Lever
function is to form the stitches in reverse direction.
Bed
The lower portion of the machine i.e. stands under which the mechanism
for handling lower thread including the shuttle and feed are mounted.
Bobbin
A small metal spool that holds the lower thread supply.
Bobbin
The metal case that holds the bobbin. It has the tension spring that
Case
controls the pressure on the bobbin thread.
Bobbin
It is a simple mechanism for winding the thread on the bobbin and is
Winder
located at the right hand side near the wheel.
Feed Dog
A small metal device under the presser foot which has teeth which carries
the material along as it is stitched. It moves the material forward, by one
stitch length, after each stitch has been drawn.
Hand
Handel is located on the right side of the machine. It is driven by hand or
Wheel
belt in the domestic machine and with the help of belt in the industrial
machine. It controls the movement of the needle bar and drives the
machine.
Hand Lifter To lift the presser foot by hand.
Head
The upper part of the machine above the stand. It is a complete sewing
machine without the bed.
Knee Lifter To life the presser foot by knee.
Needle Bar A bar at the end of which the needle is attached.
Pan
It is the metal pan under the head that catches oil, lint, broken threads.
Presser
A foot which is used to hold the fabric while stitching. It is detachable and
Foot
different types of foot are available for different functions e.g. zipper foot,
plastic foot.
Presser
A lever attached to the presser bar to lift up & down the presser foot.
Foot Lifter
Shuttle
A device that carries the needle thread around the bobbin and forms the
lock on the lock stitch.

Stitch
Regulator

The length of the stitches is determined by graduation marks on the

stitch regulating screw. As you increase the numbers on regulator the
number of stitches per inch increases i.e. the size of the stitches
decreases and vice-versa.
Tension
It is a mechanism which controls the tension of upper thread and the
Regulator
quality of stitches. The tension of the thread is adjusted with the help of
spring and nut which controls the pressure on the disc.
Thread
It is a metal rod fitted either on top or on side of the stand to hold the
Stand
or thread spool.
Spool Pin
Thread
A bar/lever which is located above the tension regulator. It moves up and
Take
Up down. It has a hole through which the thread passes. It feeds thread to
Lever
the needle and it also tightens loop formed and locks it.
Throat
A semicircular disc with a hole to allow needle to pass through it and also
Plate
has marking in some cases which are used as guidelines while stitching.

Common Machine Problems

The trainee needs to understand the common problems that may be there while sewing a
should be able to rectify these as they are common and irritating and slow down the sewi
process. A person operating the machine should be able to rectify these and solve the problem
1. Bobbin

1a. Does not wind : Make sure the thread is wrapped around the bobbin in proper directio
Check to see if bobbin has been placed properly in the winder. The rubber ring might be wo
out and needs to be replaced.

1b. Winds unevenly : The thread may not be inserted in the thread guide. You may be runni
the machine too fast. The tension spring may need adjustment.
1c. The Needle moves up and down during winding : Needle has not been disengaged
2. Fabric

2a. Layers feed unevenly: Presser foot pressure incorrect. May need to stitch slowly. T
fabric may be very light weight use tissue paper while stitching.

2b. Does not feed in straight line: Presser foot may be loose or bent. Pressure of the press
foot may be incorrect Needle may be bent. There may be a defect in the machine feed. Y
may be pushing or pulling the fabric.

2c. Puckers when stitched: Many fabrics pucker when stitch in a single layer. The stitch leng
may be not in correct relation to the fabric type. If the fabric is sheer or light weight, t
presser foot tension may need to be regulated. Thread may be too thick. Needle may
coarse. Bobbin thread may be uneven. Stitch tension may be unbalanced Feed dog may

worn out.

2d. Shows feed mark on the underside: Presser foot pressure may be too heavy. You m
need to put tissue paper between the fabric and the feed The feed may be damaged or s
too high.
2e. Fabric is damaged or holes around the stitches : Needle may be blunt or too coarse
wrong type for the fabric Check for the nick in the throat plate, foot or feed
3. Machine

3a. Motor does not run: Cord is not plugged OR Power stitch off or Knee OR foot accelerat
may be jammed or improperly attached to power source.

3b. Motor runs but hand wheel does not turn: Thread or lint may be caught or tangled in t
bobbin case area.

3c. Motor runs, hand wheel turns, but needle does not move: The needle may have be
disengaged for bobbin winding and not tightened back to sewing position. If needle has be
tightened but still does not move, the motor belt is slipping because it is loose or worn.

3d. Motor, hand wheel and needle moves but fabric does not feed: Make sure the presser fo
is down or Check the stitch length regulator OR The pressure regulator may at the least/ lig
pressure. If fabric is heavy, more pressure may be necessary for fabric to feed OR The fe
dog may be in the lowered or down position
3e. Motor, hand wheel, needle and fabric moves but no stitch is formed :

Thread may have come out of the need

Needle may be threaded in the wrong direction

Needle may be inserted backward or may not be pushed all the way up into the clamp

Needle may be the wrong length for the machine

Machine may be threaded incorrectly

Bobbin may be empty

Bobbin and / or case may be inserted incorrectly

The timing of the machine might be off

3f. Runs sluggishly :

Bobbin winder may still be engaged

Knee or foot control might be improperly positioned

Machine may be in need of oiling and / or cleaning

3g. Runs noisily :

Machine probably needs oiling and / or cleaning

The needle could be bent and hitting against foot or throat plate

Bobbin and / or case may not be tight enough

Bobbin may be almost out of thread.

3h. Will not stitch in reverse :

If machine is very old, it may not have this capability

If it is a recent model, check the stitch control. If may be set for stretch stitch
buttonhole, sometimes these stitches cannot be reversed manually.

4. Needle
4a. Unthreads :

Insufficient thread may have been pulled through the needle before the seam was starte

Machine may be out of top thread

4b. Breaks :

You may be using the incorrect presser foot

Presser foot and / or throat plate may be loose or improperly fastened.

Needle might have become bent and hit the presser foot and /or throat plate

Needle may be incorrectly inserted

Needle might be too fine for the fabric being sewed and for the job being done

You may have pulled too hard on fabric while stitching

Check machine settings.

Needle may be defective

5. Stitches:
5a. Are uneven lengths :

You might be pushing or pulling the fabric too much

Pressure on the presser foot could be either too light or too heavy for the fabric

There could be lint or other clog between the teeth of the feed dog

5b. Have loops between them :

If the loops are large, the machine is improperly threaded

If loops are small tensions are unbalanced

Bobbin may be wound unevenly

There may not be enough pressure to hold the fabric taut during stitch formation

6. Thread:
6a. Needle thread breaks :

Usually this is caused by the needle being inserted backward or threaded backward
Thread may be caught in the spool notch or it could be wrapped around the spindle

There may be a rough or burred place on a thread guide

The needle may be blunt

Needle may not be all the way up into the clamp

Needle may be too fine for the thread, causing it to fray-often the case with s
buttonhole twist

6b. Bobbin thread breaks :

Bobbin case may not be threaded properly and / or the case not inserted properly

Bobbin may be too full

Check for dirt or clog in the bobbin case

Bobbin tension may be too tight

6c. Bobbin thread cannot be raised through hole in throat plate :

Bobbin case may be improperly threaded.

It may not have been properly inserted

Trade: Dress Designing for Women

Topic 4: Stitching and its Refinement & Tools and Equipments
Teaching Pedagogy: Theory
Content: Terminology in Cutting
Important Terms for Cutting & Tailoring
1. Dart: Without spoiling the shape of the garment, and in order to give a perfect fit,
a small amount of cloth is folded and stitched with a single strand till the other end.
This process is called putting a dart. It is used at various places on the garment like
bust dart, waist dart etc. to give fitting or fullness to shape.

2. Fish Dart: This is put at the back in lower body garments like shorts, trousers,
slacks. Its shape is like a fish, hence the name. It takes an angular shape after being
put straight for some distance.

3. Pleats: A fold taken from the inside of a garment and held in place by a stitch is
known as a pleat. These are of many types like straight pleats, inverted pleats etc.
These are used either as a design element or to provide fullness or fitting.

4. Tucks: Folding the cloth a little from the right side and stitching in a straight line is
known as putting a tuck. This is also used to enhance the beauty of the garment or
to provide a better fit. If these stitched lines appear of the thickness of a pin then
they are known as pin tucks.

5. Frills: A circular ruffle is created from a circular piece of fabric rather than a
straight strip. To make circular ruffles, the use of a paper pattern is recommended.
Thread a needle with a thread that is at least one foot longer than the length you
need to gather down to. For example, if you need to gather a length of ribbon to 8
inches (20.3 cm) long, you will need at least 20 inches (50.8 cm) of thread. Tie a
knot on the end of your thread.

Tools and Equipment

1. Pencil & Sharpener: Necessary for pattern making.

2. Tracing Wheel: Transfers muslin pattern to paper and paper pattern to fabric.

3. Straight Meter Scale

: For measure / Measuring on fabric.

4. Eraser: Non-dust eraser.

5. Marking Chalk: Used for marking fabric.

6. Paper Scissors : To cut paper patterns

7.

Fabric Scissors : To cut fabrics

8. Scale : For making the patterns

9. Measuring Tape: For measuring form or figure.

10.

Oil Pins : To keep fabrics in place

11.Cutting Table: To cut fabric using cutting table.

12.

Pattern Paper: To draw pattern using this paper.

Basic Sewing Tools:

Trade: Dress Designing for Women

Topic 5: Body Measurement
Teaching Pedagogy: Theory and Practical
Content: Body Measurement and its Precautions

Method of Correct Measuring: The fitting of any cloth depends on right fitting. Until
the customers proper measurement are not taken in note book, the same will be not
be cut as his his/her size. If cutting goes wrong, it will create problem in sewing of
the cloth. Hence, a trainee should be aware of methods of taking proper
measurement. Following are importance of taking right measurement before starting
any sewing work:

Saves Time
Customer Satisfaction
Quality Fitting

Precautions to be taken before Measurement:

1. A trainee should keep control of herself before taking measurement
2. A trainee taking measurement should be simple and sober
3. A trainee should stand in right hand side of customer. And should take
measurement from right side
4. Both trainee and customer should maintain some distance while taking
measurement
5. While taking measurement, customer should stand still and not move. The
trainee should move for any adjustments
6. Trainee should ask customer for his/her measurement in case of any specific
design
7. Measurement should be taken in sequence and noted down in register
8. Customer should be asked to remove their coats/blazers/cardigan for correct
measurement
9. Trainee should be well aware of required measurements of each cloth type
10.Customer should stand in relaxed position for his/her measurement
Terms for Measurements:
Around Collar
Shoulder width
Chest width
Back width
Around bust

Around Thorax
Around waist
Shoulder
to
waist
length
(back)

It is taken from the base of the neck and around. Not too
tight and not too loose.
It is taken from the base of the neck to the birth of the arm.
It is taken on the wider part of the chest, over the bust,
from one side to the other of the chest, starting exactly at
the base of the arms.
It is taken on the wider part of the back, from one side to
the other, starting at the base of the arm.
The measurement tape should go around, just below the
base of the arms. The tape has to go over the bust on the
most prominent part of it, without tightening it. NOTE: For
men, girls and boys this measure is called AROUND CHEST
and it is taken in the same fashion but on the front the
tape must go over the widest part of the chest.
It is taken underneath the bust, exactly at its base, and
around the thorax, adjusting the tape measure to the body
measures.
It is taken exactly where that lace is tied around the waist.
It must be an exact measure.
This measure is taken on the back, over the shoulder
(exactly at the base of the neck), going down vertically
along the back to the point where the lace is tied around

Shoulder
to
waist
length
(front)

Bust Height

Arm Length
Elbow Length
Around arm
Around hip
Measurement
around half hip
height
Total leg length
Inside
leg
length
Around the leg
Length of knee
Total height

the waist.
This measure is taken on the front, over the shoulder
(exactly at the base of the neck), going down vertically
along the front, passing it over the prominent part of the
bust and to the point where the lace is tied around the
waist.
It is taken on the front, over the shoulder, exactly at the
base of the neck, going down vertically to the tip of the
bust.
It is taken along the folded arm, from the shoulder or base
of the arm, to the prominent bone of the wrist (cuffs).
It is taken from the shoulder to the tip of the elbow.
It is taken on the wider part of the arm, going around it
completely.
It is to be taken tightly on the most prominent part of the
gluteus or hip.
Right on the half of the previous hip height measurement,
the hip is to be measured around.
It is to be taken on the side, from the lace around the waist
down to the ankle. The tape measure should be close to the
body especially on the hip.
It is taken on the front, from the light between the legs
(crotch), along the inside of the leg and down to the ankle.
It is taken on the middle of the leg, on the thicker part and
around it.
It is to be taken on the side, from the lace around the waist
and down to the knee, keeping the tape close to the body
especially at the hip.
Person must be without shoes. It is taken from the highest
part of the head and down to the floor.

Measuring Chart
1. Childrens Measuring Chart

Ag
e

Che
st

Wai
st

Hip

1
ye
ar

18"
46
cm

18"
46
cm

18"
46
cm

1-2
ye
ar

20"
51
cm

20"
51
cm

20"
51
cm

Should
er

8"20
cm

8.5"
22cm

Neck

9"23
cm

9.5"
25cm

Sleev
es

10"25
cm

11"
28cm

Should
er to
Waist

7"18
cm

7.5'
19cm

Froc
k
Leng
th
15"16"
3841
cm
16'18"
4146
cm

Nick
er
Leng
th

Leggi
ng
Lengt
h

8" 20
cm

16"18"
41-46
cm

9" 23
cm

18"20"
46-51
cm

3-4
ye
ar

22"
56c
m

22"
56c
m

22"
56c
m

9"
23cm

10"
25cm

12"
8"
31 cm 21cm

20"22"
5156c
m

5-6
ye
ar

24"
61c
m

22"
56c
m

24"
61c
m

10"
25cm

11"28
cm

14"
36cm

9"
23cm

24"
60
cm

12"
31c
m

7-8
ye
ar
910
ye
ar

26"
66c
m

23"
58c
m

28"
71c
m

10"
25cm

26"
66c
m

13"
33c
m

27"
68c
m

24"
61c
m
24"25"
6167c
m

30"
79c
m

11.5"
29cm

28"
71c
m

14"
37c
m

20"22"
5156cm
22"24"
5661cm
26"28"
6671cm
28"30"
7176cm

13"
33cm

30"
77c
m

14.5
"
37c
m

30"32"
7681cm

1112
ye
ar

28"
71c
m

32"
81c
m

11"28c
m
12"
31cm

13"
33cm

11.5"
29cm
12.5"
32cm

13"
33cm

17"
43cm
19"
48cm

21"
54cm

10"
25c
m

2. Womens Measuring Chart

Age
1314
year
s
1516
year
s
1718
year
s
1920
year
s
2122
year
s
2324
year
s

Ches
t

Wai
st

25"
30"
64c
76cm m
26"
32"
66c
81cm m
26.5
33"
"
84
67c
cm
m
27"
34"
69c
86cm m
27.5
"
35"
70c
88cm m
28"
36"
71c
91cm m

Neck

Sleeve
s

Should
er to
Waist

Frock
Length

Blouse
Length

13"
33cm

13"
33cm

21"
54cm

13"
33cm

32"34" 8186 cm

13.5"
35cm

35"
89cm

13.5"
35cm

13.5"
35cm

22"
56cm

13.5"
35cm

35"
89cm

13.5"
35cm

36"
91cm

13.5"
35cm

13.5"
35cm

22"
56cm

13.5"
35cm

36"
91cm

14"
36cm

37"
94cm

14"
36cm

14"
36cm

22"
56cm

14"
36cm

37"
94cm

14"
36cm

38"
97cm

14"
36cm

14"
36cm

22.5"
58cm

14.5"
37cm

38"
97cm

14.5"
37cm

40"
102c
m

14"
36cm

14"
36cm

23"
58cm

15"
38cm

40"
102cm

15"
38cm

Hip

Should
er

33"
84cm

Trade: Dress Designing for Women

Topic 6: Principles of Drafting Method
Teaching Pedagogy: Theory
Content: Terminology used in Drafting
Drafting Methods: In order to understand the drafts given in this content book,
information is written below to draw drafts conveniently. The lines in drafting are
basis for drafts. These lines does not change.
Terminology used in Drafting:
1. Chest=CH: Used for children and men
2. Breast OR Bust= B: Used for women
3. Waist=W
4. Hip=H: Used for women and children
5. Seat=S: Used for men
6. Neck=N
7. Dart to Dart= D to D
8. Shoulder to Dart= S to D
9. Natural Waist= N.W
10.Sleeve Length=S.Lt
11.Sleeve Bottom=S.B
12.Knee= Knee
13.Bottom=B
14.Full Length=F. Lt

Trade: Dress Designing for Women

Topic 7: Principles of Paper Patterns
Teaching Pedagogy: Theory
Content: Benefits of Paper Pattern & Precautions
Introduction: Pattern of a garment is the blue print on the basis of the fabric is cut.
The patterns can be prepared using strong brown papers, newspapers for rough
drafts, strong white paper which is available in a variety of weights and widths,
tracing paper or butter paper may be used to develop patterns. A basic pattern of a
garment can be prepared by one of these two methods: - by drafting - by draping
fabric on a model or person concerned Drafting may be defined as a system of
drawing patterns on paper with mechanical precision, on the basis of body
measurements. The basic pattern developed on paper may be modified to develop
patterns for varied styles. This is also called as flat pattern designing. This is
sometimes called as the third type of preparing patterns that is rather imprecise.
The basic pattern is also referred to as sloper, block, and master or foundation
pattern.
Benefits of Paper Pattern
1. Saves time
2. Identifies mistake
3. Making design
4. Feasible layout
5. Keep pattern paper permanently
6. Correct Paper cut
Precautions while making Paper Pattern
1. Paper pattern should be in full scale
2. Paper pattern should be made on rough side of paper
3. Note book should be kept in front while making pattern
4. Pattern should be made in clear and sharp line
5. Pattern should be made from sharp chalk/pencil
6. Erase wrong lines with the help of rubber
7. Inspection should be done before drafting
8. Recheck your drafting
9. Paper pattern should be folded

Trade: Dress Designing for Women

Topic 8: Fundamentals methods of Cutting and Stitch
Teaching Pedagogy: Theory and Practical
Content: Fundamentals methods of Cutting and Stitch
Before going for cutting of any fabric, there are some precautions which needs to be taken care
of for better quality and finishing. Following points should be considered while cutting of fabric:
1. Pre- assessment of fabric before cutting
2. Fabric related inspection
2a. Check fabric
2b. Printed fabric
2c. Pile fabric
3. Mark on opposite side of fabric from chalk/pencil
4. Paper pattern related
5. Balance mark
6. Scissors
Instructions for sewing
1. Mark Darts, pleats, turning with the help of tracing wheel on other parts of the fabric
2. On Darts and pleats, use basting stitch for facing and design to understand whether it has
been done right or wrong
3. Prepare design first and then stitch shoulders
4. After shoulder, sew neck
5. After neck, go for sleeves and remaining parts
6. Check machines stitch on waste fabric
7. Use of iron simultaneously on darts, pleats, pocket for better finishing
8. Cut thread together for better finishing
9. Use scissor for cutting thread

Trade: Dress Designing for Women

Topic 9: Sewing of Petticoat
Teaching Pedagogy: Theory and Practical
Content: Sewing of Petticoat (8 paneled)
A petticoat or underskirt is an article of clothing; specifically an undergarment to be
worn under a skirt or a dress. The petticoat is a separate garment hanging from the
waist
Method:
1. Measure the top of the petticoat (waist line)
and cut a waist band ABCD 6 wide and length
equal to the top of the petticoat + I.
2. Fold on ends A-C and B-D of the waist band
and stitch.
3. Fold along A-B and C-D and crease
4. Open the side A-B and attach it to the petticoat
top from inside.
5. Keep right side of the band and the wrong
side of the petticoat together and stitch on
the crease made earlier.
6. Fold the band length wise stitch the edge C-D to
the waist line so that the fold just covers the
machine stitching at the waist line.
Drafting of Petticoat:
Measurement:
Waist: 28
Hip: 36
Length: 40

Trade: Designing for Women

Topic 10: Sewing of Lehnga
Teaching Pedagogy: Theory and Practical
Content: Sewing of Lehnga with Mugji

Material Required
Cotton or any fancy fabric- 4.5m
Measurements
a. Round hip
b. Round waist
c. Full length
Method
1.
2.
3.
4.

OA=BC is full length -6 (2 for belt. 4 for mugji).

Divide round waist into 8 equal parts.
CD = OE = 1/12th of the hip + 1
DF = Full length-6", EJ = Full length -6"

Belt
1. IJ = KM = is 2 on fold.
2. IK = JM is waist/2 +1 on fold.
Mugji
1. Cut 8 pieces of fabric on bias grain then join them with French seam.
Then join these pieces to the hem line of lehnga with the help of piping on both the
sides.

Drafting of Lehnga

Trade: Dress Designing for Women

Topic 11: Different Type of Neck Pattern

Teaching Pedagogy: Theory and Practical

Content: Different Type of Neck Pattern
Demonstration with Picture:

Trade: Dress Designing for Women

Topic 12: Sewing of Kurta
Teaching Pedagogy: Theory and Practical
Content: Sewing of Kurta (Plain)

Materials Required
- Any cotton or cotton variant which has a comfortable feel,
approximately 2 m.
Measurements
a. Across shoulder
b. Chest
c. Length required
Method Front
1. Draw a vertical line from point A to B i.e. the total length of
the
kurta.
2. On the line AB mark C from A i.e. 1/4th of chest 1
3. On the same line, mark D from point A i.e. 1/6th of chest.
4. From point A mark H on the line AB i.e. the waist level and HL is equal to 1/4th of
waist + 1
5. H to E is on the same line and is 7" (chest /4-2")
6. ET is equal to 1/4th of hip + 1
7. From point A go 1 down for the shoulder drop to point G.
8. AI is equal to 1/12th of chest.
9. Join IP, it is also parallel to AD.
10.GJ is half of shoulder measurement
11.Join IJ
12.From point C mark point K across horizontally i.e. 1/4th of chest + 1
13.Join JK using a French curve and similarly join ID with a French curve too.
14.BN = ET
You can give variations in neckline as per your choice.
Back
1. In the same pattern, from point A mark F at a distance of 1/2 and mark a parallel
line to AI
2. Join IO and JK with a French curve.
Construction
1. Keep the fabric on fold and trace the front part.
2. Similarly for the back pattern.
3. Add an allowance of 1/2 all around.
4. Keeping the right sides together, join the allowances and close the side seam with
a French seam.
5. Finish the hem with either a top stitch or blind hemming.
Sleeve
1. Mark line OA which the length of the sleeve.
2. OB would be 1/12th of chest.
3. From point B mark B1 which is 1/4th of chest - 1/2 and is = B & B2.

4. Distance from A1 to A is 5 which is also equal to A and A2.

5. Join B1 to O, A1 and B1, B2 and O, A2 and B2.
6. C1 and C2 are mid points of OB1 and OB2.
7. Similarly D1 and D2 are mid points of C1B1 and C2B2.
8. Join these points with a slight curve as shown in the gure.
The armhole of the front block will always be deeper in the curve than the back.
Drafting of Kurta:

Trade : Dress Designing for Women

Topic 13: Sewing of Salwar
Teaching Pedagogy: Theory and Practical
Content: Sewing of Salwar with Belt

Material Required
- Cotton fabric that is well, approximately 2.5 m
Measurements
a. Hip
b. Length of Salwar
c. Bottom Opening
Method Belt
1. From point O mark A which is 1/6th of hip + 1
2. Again from point O mark C, this is 1/2 of hip + 5.
3. Join CB and OA (CB=OA) and (AB=OC)
Front
1. From point H mark L at a distance of 8.
2. From L mark K which will be the total length desired
Length of the belt.
3. LK = HI
4. LH = KI
Side Panel
1. From point D mark E which is 1/3rd of hip + 2 Belt.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.

From D mark G is 1/2 of width of fabric.

GF would be equal in length as HI.
FX is 1. PONCHA
From point M mark N, this is 9.
From point P mark Q, this is 9.75.
MQ = 1.

Construction
1. Mark the fabric on fold.
2. Keeping the selvedge on the straight grain, cut the length.

3.
4.
5.
6.

According to the given measurements mark the Belt.

Seam allowance is included.
Cut the fabric and attach the side seams with at fell seam.
Once the legs are attached, attach the belt keeping right side together and nish it
with Flat Fell.

7. The upper side of the belt will be folded twice and the edge will be secured with a
top stitch and insert a draw string.

Drafting of Salwar

TA
Trade: Dress Designing for Women
Topic 14: Sewing of Blouse
Teaching Pedagogy: Theory and Practical
Content: Sewing of Blouse (Simple with Belt)
Introduction: There are many varieties of Sari blouses ranging from those with
sleeves to the sleeveless and the blouse length can also vary from very short to waist
length. Since the Sari blouse is a tight fitting garment it is very critical to take the
measurements carefully and get a good custom fit. Explained here is the basic
method of drafting a sari blouse.
Measurement:
1. Chest
2. Full length of blouse
3. Shoulder
4. Sleeve length
5. Sleeve round
6. Front round
7. Waist round
Method:
Front A to B= front length + .
A to C = shoulder +
On the line A-B mark D such that A-D = chest -1 or 1.
A-D is called scye depth. It varies with chest measurement. It can be
calculated using the chest measurement. It can also be measured directly on
the body. It is measured from the nape of the neck downwards to a line that
joins armpits.

Back:
A-B =Full length of the blouse +1
A-D is scye depth = same as scye depth of front the blouse.
Draw perpendiculars from A,D and B. A-C= shoulder +
Mark D-E= chest +1. Mark F such that B-F = D-E. I- F= .Join E-I.

Sleeves:
A-B= sleeve length + .
K-A =1"for folding. From the points B , A and K draw perpendiculars.
B -C is as A-D = scye depth of the body taken while drawing body draft + " to
1

Trade: Dress Designing for Women

Topic 15: Sewing of Blouse

Teaching Pedagogy: Theory and Practical

Content: Sewing of Blouse (Cholicut)
Material Required
- Fabric: 1m
- Hooks
Measurement
Required
a. Length
Across
b. shoulder

Ches
c. t
Wais
d. t

Method Front
1. Mark point OX, which is the length of blouse.
2. OB is the 1/6th of chest + 1.
3. BH is 1/4th of chest +1.
4. OE is 1/12th of chest.
5. OD is 1.
6. DG is 1/2 of across shoulder.
7. CS is equal to 1/12th of chest.
8. EF is 1/6th of chest -1.
9. OC is 1/6th of chest.
10.Join FC.
11.Mark point T on BH line which is half of across shoulder.
12.AI is 1/4th of waist +1.5.
13.XA is 1.5.
14.XR is 3.
15.XI1 = AJ is 1/4th of chest + 1
16.Join H with I with straight line.
17.AK is 1/12th of chest and dart width is 1.
18.IP is 2.5.
19.QP is 3/4
20.L is apex point.
21.LM is 1. And TN is 1.5.
22.Join GH, FNP ,PKR with French curve.
Back
1. UV is the length of blouse.
2. UZ is 1/6th of chest + 1".
3. WU is 1, WY is half of across shoulder.
4. UX1 is 1/12th of chest.
5. UE1 is 1/12th of chest
6. ZH1 is 1/4th of chest+1/2.
7. Join E1Y
8. VJ1 is 1/4th of waist +1.5.
9. VV1 is 1/12th of chest +1/2.
10.W1 is apex point.

11.Join YH1 with French curve.

12.Join H1 J1 with straight line.
Belt
1. O1 C1 is 1/12th of chest.
2. B1 is midpoint of O1 C1
3. C1 A1 is 1/4th of waist.
Drafting of Cholicut Blouse

Trade: Dress Designing for Women

Topic 16: Bag Making

Teaching Pedagogy: Theory and Practical

Content: Bag Making (Tote Bag)
Method of Making Bag: First we cut all the red fabric pieces. A total of 8 pieces:

4 pieces of 66cm x 3 cm (25,98 x 1,18) to make the handles (each handle is

made by joining 2 of this pieces and sewing them together)

2 pieces to reinforce the handles of the bag. 35cm x 2cm (13,78 x 0,79)

Plus 2 extra pieces of the main part to make the lining

Drafting of Bag: