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April - May 2009

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 CONTENTS 5

www.inyourpocket.com
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents
The Basics 8
Transport, money, language

Culture & Events 10

Theatre, Festivals

Hotels - Where to stay 22

Whatever your budget or needs

Restaurants 31
Guláš to gourmet and everything in between

Cafés 50
Historical slices of Czech life with cake

Nightlife 54
Explore the depths of Prague’s bars and clubs

World Roma Khamoro Festival 25-31 May

Sightseeing
Essential sights 64
The castle, the bridge, the clock

Directory
Shopping 74
Business 75
Health & Beauty 76
Lifestyle 79

Adult entertaiment 81

Getting around 85
Planes, trains and automobiles

Maps & Index

Street index 86
City centre map 87
City map 88-89
Index 90

prague.inyourpocket.com April - May 2009

6 FOREWORD FOREWORD 7

Happy Birthday to us! Yep, we are celebrating

Prague In Your Pocket’s 50th issue! What’s that? Europe In Your Pocket Free Downloads On inyourpocket.com
You can’t believe we are 50 since we are still so
There’s far more to In Your Pocket than this
young and slender? Oh, go on with you then. From
print version of our latest guide. We print guides
our first issue, back in December 2000, we’ve
in more than 50 cities across Europe, and In
seen a lot. The floods of 2002; the Czech European Your Pocket offers the vast majority of them for
Union entry in 2004 plus the Czech national football free download, in PDF, at our website. A number
team’s excellent run in the Euro Cup; the hilarious of guides are now also available as post-PDF, iPa-
presidential election of 2008, and now here we are per documents. Just visit our website at inyour-
holding the rotating EU presidency. How far we’ve pocket.com for all our available downloads.
come. And how much farther we still have to go. But
we here at the Prague headquarters are excited
about having you along for our next 50 issues.
Thanks for sticking around! In Your Pocket guides have been online, in full,
since 1995, and our company has continually
While the city is strangely not celebrating this been at the cutting edge of internet development.
anniversary as one would expect; there is a plethora The first travel publisher to offer free PDF guides
of concerts on tap, especially in the next couple of (back in 2002) you can now download our entire
months. It’s festival time as well, so no matter your range of travel guidebooks - for free and in full -
mood; something different is bound to catch your from our website, inyourpocket.com. More than
eye. Peruse your options starting on page 10. And 20,000 PDFs are downloaded each month, while
don’t forget Easter and spring fun – read our special the site as a whole regularly attracts more than
coverage on page 20. Just like us, Laterna Magicka 250,000 visitors per month.
is celebrating 50 years, but they’ve got the black
light theatre genre covered. Be sure to take in one Getting involved
of their performances while you are in town; it’s a A year or so ago In Your Pocket took the inte-
language free way to experience theatre in Prague.
In Your Pocket is Europe’s biggest publisher of A word from our Mayor ractive plunge and began allowing readers to post
locally produced travel guides, producing more comments under our own reviews. The response
Have you sampled any Czech food yet? Did you order than 3.5 million guides per year. With print guides Welcome to the city that will amaze has been incredible, nowhere more so than in Riga,
hranolky (French fries) on the side or did you go for to more than 50 cities across the continent, you with its peerless genius loci, where the famous rip-off joint Lord Pub has garne-
the traditional knedlíky dumplings? Locals, perhaps travellers ask for In Your Pocket guides by name: fascinating architecture, abundant red so many comments from angry readers that
with some help from tourists, have made the Czech they trust our content and our flawless levels of cul tural and social li fe and i ts at one stage earlier this year our system couldn’t
accuracy. In Your Pocket remains committed unparalleled atmosphere. These
Republic the largest fry consuming country in Central are not any pompous words of a
cope: we had to reconfigure it to accommodate
to its founding aim of covering the world with all the feedback. All of our venues - and most
Europe. And we couldn’t be prouder. Of course well researched, well written and informative city pretentious mayor but evaluations of
our annual consumption of around 36,000 tons the visitors who have seen Prague before you. Thanks to of our features - are now open forums ready for
guides. This year we will be launching new guides this fact our metropolis belongs among the most visited your comments. If you have something to say on
is nothing compared to the European champions, in Glasgow, Sarajevo and Vienna. If you think
Belgium. Those crazies eat about five times as much ones in Europe. Warsaw’s raunchiest nightlife venues, say it at
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Have fun and enjoy your stay; be it with a piece of us at pocketmycity@inyourpocket.com. unique symbiosis just like all your predecessors.
birthday cake or an order of chips. comments and make a point of taking on board
Welcome to Prague! what our readers are telling us. While we vet all
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Editorial Copyright notice Mayor of the City of Prague
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Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com April - May 2009

8 BASICS
Arriving in Prague
By plane
Prague’s airport is 20km from the city centre. A taxi to
the town centre has just risen to around 600Kč even if you
call a company to pick you up rather than take one from
outside the terminal - reputable AAA have representa-
tives in the arrivals hall now. Alternatively, use the ČEDAZ
minibus service (tel. 220 11 42 96, 05:30 - 21:30) that
runs every half hour between the airport and Náměstí
Republiky (F-2). Tickets cost 90Kč (including one piece
of baggage, children under 10 free) and can be bought
from the driver or from the booth in the arrival terminal.
For an extra fee, ČEDAZ can also pick you up or drop you
off at your hotel.
The cheapest way to get into town is on by bus: N°119
(2-8 times per hour between 04:18 and 00:10 with at
least one wheelchair-friendly bus per hour) runs between
the airport and the Dejvická metro station (Line A, green)
in about 20 minutes. From Dejvická it is just five stops to
Muzeum in the centre of town. Bus N°100 whisks you to
Zličín (metro Line B, yellow) from the airport in 13 minutes.
There is a new Airport Express (AE) bus from Holešovice
which runs every half an hour, whizzing you across the city in
half an hour, whether you are arriving or departing. Special
fares apply to this bus, tickets can only be bought from
the driver and do not allow any transfers or other forms of
transport. Tickets are 45/25Kč, dogs 25Kč and luggage
is free. First & last buses from Holešovice 05:15 & 21:45,
from the airport 04:40 & 21:10.
A 26Kč transport ticket (plus a 10Kč one for big bags)
will get you all the way into town or to the airport on all
public transport except the Airport Express. Tickets can
be bought at the friendly transport information desk in
both arrival halls (open 07:00 - 22:00) or from the coin-
operated machine at the airport bus stop, but not from
the driver. You need to validate the ticket (once for the
whole trip) in the machines on board the bus.
Prague’s new Terminal North 2 will allow for at least 4
million more passengers a year to travel into Prague with
the ability to continue expansion. New bars, restaurants,
shops and services ply their trade in this terminal which
accommodates flights to and from Schengen countries.
There is a left luggage facilty at the airport which doesn’t
close and costs 60Kč per item per day.
By train
Prague has two main railway stations. Praha Hlavní
nádraží (tel. 224 61 52 49) is architecturally fabulous (in
the Jugendstil tradition) although you won’t know it until
you exit its underground nightmare. There is a tourist
office (open 09:00 - 19:00. Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00) in
the centre of the lower hall of the two levels. Currency ex-
change offices abound, but for a better deal, use the ATM
on the far left of the lower hall. Left luggage (úschova)
requirements are filled by coin-operated lockers (10Kč
/24hrs) and a guarded luggage depository opposite
(closed for 30 minutes from 05:30, 12:00 and 17:30).
Getting to town involves one stop on the metro to Muzeum
or a dangerous walk up busy Wilsonova. The other station,
Praha Holešovice (tel. 224 61 58 65), is used by trains
on the main Berlin Vienna/Bratislava route. The small hall
holds the ticket office (open 09:00 - 17:00, closed Sat,
Sun), left luggage lockers, an internet café and several ex-
change and accommodation offices (open 06:00 - 23:00).
It is three stops on the metro to Muzeum. For multilingual
service, avoid the queues at the station counters and
buy your train ticket at Wasteels or at the ČR agency.
Prague In Your Pocket
BASICS 9
Public transport CZ: A brief history
Prague’s public transport system (Dopravní podnik) 4th Century
is efficient, fast and reasonably clean. With three The present day Czech Republic was populated by Celts
metro lines, 26 tram routes and 9 night trams you and it was the Celtic Boii tribe who gave the country its
won’t need the bus routes that avoid the centre. Latin name, Boiohaemum (Bohemia).
Keep in mind that the centre of Prague is easily 6th Century
accessible on foot. The first Slavs travel from the east to the Prague area.
7th Century
Tickets, valid for all means of transport, can be According to legend a princess named Libuše marries
purchased from the numerous vending machines at a ploughman and founds the Premysl dynasty. She
all metro stations, major tram stops and news stands. prophesies that a great city will rise above the banks
You always need to validate your ticket yourself by of the Vltava.
stamping it in the machines at metro entrances and on 10th Century
trams. The most common ticket is the 26Kč transfer Václav I, misleadingly later to be called the Good King
ticket, which is valid for 75 minutes after validating Wenceslas in the Christmas carol, is murdered by his
(90 minutes between 22:00 and 05:00, on weekends brother Boleslav. He becomes the country’s patron saint
and public holidays). The 18Kč non-transfer ticket and his feast day is celebrated on 28 Sept.
is meant for tram rides under 20 minutes with no 14th Century
changes, or in the metro for up to 5 stations (changes In 1346 Charles IV is crowned King of Bohemia, and in
allowed) from the departure station within 30 minutes. 1348 he founds Charles University in Prague, the first
We suggest you save yourself time by buying a handful university in the Holy Roman Empire. Prague becomes the
of these on arrival. If you’re planning to stay a bit and largest city in Europe, with 40,000-50,000 inhabitants.
explore, get the one-day pass (100Kč), a three-day 15th Century
pass (330Kč) or a five-day pass (500Kč). Children On 6 July, 1415 the protestant reformer Jan Hus is burnt
Learning the language under 6 travel free; and tickets are half price up to 15
years old. Large pieces of luggage (including rucksacks)
at the stake. He becomes a martyr for the nationalist and
Protestant movement that adopts his name.
Numbers cost an extra 13Kč while dogs ride the rails for 26Kč. 16th Century
1 jeden (m)/jedna (f) Fines for no validated tickets are 500Kč if paid on the In 1526 the Hapsburg Duke Ferdinand I is elected as
2 dva (m)/dvě (f) spot or pay 1,000Kč later. King of Bohemia. The dynasty will rule the Czech lands
3 tři until 1918.
4 čtyři The funicular railway and night tram tickets are 26Kč. 20th Century
5 pět Signs 28 Oct, 1918 Following the defeat of Germany and
6 šest Open otevřeno Trams trundle around town every few minutes; useful Austria, the Empire dissolves into several national states
7 sedm Closed zavřeno lines are N°22 and 23 which run from the centre up to and, Czechoslovakia finally becomes an independent
8 osm Entrance vchod the rear entrance of the castle, saving you the uphill republic. Tomáš Masaryk becomes its first president.
9 devět Exit východ walk. The metro connects the two main train stations 15 Mar, 1939 The Wehrmacht invades and turns the
10 deset Push tam and Florenc bus station to the centre and runs up to Czech lands and Moravia into a protectorate, while Slo-
Pull sem just after midnight, after which the night trams (the vakia becomes an independent fascist state.
Days Arrival příjezd (train) warm mobile home to many a smelly tramp) take 5 May, 1945 The Prague Uprising. Five thousand die in
Monday pondělí přílet (plane) over, zipping in all directions from the Lazarská stop four days of fierce fighting as the Czechs fight the Nazis
Tuesday úterý Departure odjezd (train) (H-5) every half hour. Tram information is on the red for the city. Prague is finally liberated by the Soviets.
Wednesday středa odlet (plane) signs at each stop and is generally correct assuming Feb 1948 Assisted by the Soviet Army, the Czech Com-
Thursday čtvrtek No smoking zde nekuřte of course that some worn out Škoda hasn’t died on munist party takes power. The country will remain under
Friday pátek zákaz kouření the tram lines. the Soviet sphere of influence until 1989.
Saturday sobota Men’s toilets páni/muži Prague Spring 1968 Communist Party chairman Alex-
Sunday neděle Ladies toilets dámy/ženy Beware of Prague’s ultra-professional pickpockets, ander Dubček makes efforts to establish “Socialism with
especially on trams N°22 and 23 and in busy metro a human face”. This includes releasing political prisoners
Basics cars; consider waiting for the next train if it looks and relaxing press censorship. His liberal ideals are
Yes ano squeezed. brutally repressed by the invasion of Warsaw pact troops
No ne on the night of 20 Aug, 1968. In protest at the invasion
Please/you’re welcome prosím For more information visit Dopravní podnik’s excellent 21 year old philosophy student Jan Palach sets himself
Thank you (very much) děkuji website with English and German information on routes alight on the steps of the National Museum.
Excuse me omluvte mě and schedules, at www.dpp.cz, or call tel. 222 62 37 19 Nov, 1989 The Velvet Revolution 200,000 people de-
Sorry promiňte 77. mand democracy in a demonstration in Wenceslas Square.
Hello dobrý den As crowds swell, the government gives in, and in 1990
Goodbye nashledanou Travel Information Centre I-5, MMuzeum, tel. former dissident Václav Havel is elected head of state.
I would like... rád/ráda bych... 296 19 18 17, www.dpp.cz. All you ever wanted 31 Dec, 1992 Dubbed The Velvet Divorce, Czechoslo-
Where is... kde je... to know about routes, tariffs, tickets, timetables, vakia divides into two independent states, Slovakia and
re-rou tin gs an d ser vi ce disrupti ons, maps an d the Czech Republic.
Street Smarts general information about Prague’s bus, tram and 21st Century
Ulice street (ul.), metro system from friendly, multi-lingual folk. Apar t Aug 2002 Floods devastate the country and cause chaos
but not usually used in an address from th e airpor t offices, th ese are found at th e and millions of crowns of damage as the Vltava rises.
Most bridge metro stations. Q Open 07:00 - 21:00. Also at E-4, 1 May, 2004 The Czech Republic joins the European Union.
Náměstí square (Nám.) Můstek, Jungmannovo Nám., open 07:00 - 18:00, 1 Aug, 2004 A grenade is thrown at an Israeli casino
Schody steps closed Sat & Sun; Andĕl, open 07:00 - 18:00, closed owner on Na Příkopě; 18 people are injured.
Brány gates Sat & Sun; Prague Airpor t terminals 1 & 2, open 16 Mar, 2004 Tram N°22 derails on Karlovo Nám. and
Nábřeží quay 07:00 - 22:00. ploughs into a crowd at a tram stop, killing two people.
prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com April - May 2009
10 CULTURE & EVENTS
Entertainment abounds in the city and our listings are by
no means comprehensive. Listen, look, explore and check
www.prague.tv for daily events.
Black Light Theatre
A Prague speciality; fluorescent mime actors and puppets
moving in front of a black background. Great for children,
and for adults too.
All Colours Theatre E-4, Praha 1, Rytířská 31,
MMůstek, tel. 221 61 01 73, www.blacktheatre.cz.
Tickets 450Kč. Q Performances start at 20:30.
Animato F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 10, MMůstek, tel.
281 93 26 65, www.volny.cz/black.theatre. Tickets
430Kč. Q Performances start at 20:30.
Image Black Theatre E-1, Praha 1, Pařížská 4,
MStaroměstská, tel. 222 31 44 58, www.imagetheatre.
cz. Tickets 480Kč. Q Performances start at 20:00.
Jiří Srnec Black Light Theatre D-4, Praha 1, Národní
20, tel. 721 58 92 44, www.blacktheatresrnec.cz. Tick-
ets 520Kč. Q Performances start at 19:30.
Metro Theatre D-4, Praha 1, Národní třída 25,
MNárodní třída, tel. 221 08 52 76, www.blacktheatre-
prague.cz. Tickets 440Kč. The performance is followed by
a workshop and lasts about 80 minutes. Q Performances
start at 20:00.
Palace Theatre I-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 43,
MMůstek, tel. 224 22 88 14, www.palacetheatre.cz.
Tickets 140 - 340Kč. Q Performances start at 20:00.
Ta Fantastika D-3, Praha 1, Karlova 8, MStaroměstská,
tel. 222 22 13 66, www.tafantastika.cz. Tickets 700Kč.
Q Performances start at 21:30.
WOW Show (Theater Blanik) I-4, Praha 1, Vaclavske
namesti 56, MMůstek, tel. 224 03 21 72, info@wow-
show.com, www.wow-show.com. Tickets 550Kč. Q
Performances start at 20:00.
Cinema
Multiplex cinemas are big business, although the smaller,
older independents survive on their quirky, less Hollywood-
dictated programmes and cheaper tickets. Village, Palace
and City Cinemas are the more expensive multiplexes (159
- 199Kč) although there is discount Monday, Tuesday &
Wednesday, with tickets for 109Kč - see below for details.
Czech and other non-English language films are not usually
subtitled in English, but we do have access to more titles
now. English language films are usually subtitled, except
kids’ films which are dubbed. For listings see www.expats.
cz.
Aero Praha 3, Biskupcova 31, tel. 271 77 13 49, www.
kinoaero.cz. A cool little arthouse cinema in Žižkov; tram N°9
to Biskupcova.Q Tickets 40 - 95Kč.
Cinema City Flóra Praha 3, Vinohradská 149, MFlóra,
tel. 255 74 20 21, www.cinemacity.cz. Includes an IMAX
theatre. Q Tickets 159Kč, Tue 109Kč. Also at Galaxie,
Arkalycká 1; Zličín, Řevnická 1.
Lucerna I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 36, MMůstek, tel.
224 21 69 72, www.multikino.cz. Apparently the longest-
running cinema in Prague with Czech and English language
films. A classic.
Palace Cinemas Slovanský Dům F-3, Praha 1, Na
Příkopě 22, tel. 257 18 12 12, www.palacecinemas.cz.
Popular city-centre multiplex, which is often the only cinema
with English language versions of films other cinemas show
dubbed. Q Tickets 159Kč, Wed 109Kč. Also at Letňany,
Veselská 663; Nový Smíchov, Plzeňská 8; Park Hostivař,
Švehlova 32.
Prague In Your Pocket
CULTURE & EVENTS 11
Ponrepo D-4, Praha 1, Bartolomějská 11, MNárodní
třída, tel. 224 23 32 81, www.sweb.cz/mjos/ponrepo/
index.html. The official theatre of the National Film Archive
and membership can be bought from 14.00 - 18.00 Mon - Fri
Radlická 3179/1E, Praha 5 - Smíchov
for 150/100Kč.
Světozor I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 41, MMůstek, tel. 224
94 75 66, www.kinosvetozor.cz. An arthouse cinema show-
ing classic, current and less mainstream movies, plus Czech
movies with English subtitles. Q Tickets 100/50Kč.
Village Cinemas Anděl Praha 5, Radlická 1E, MAnděl,
tel. 251 11 51 11, www.villagecinemas.cz. Another
cinema complex, this one has an European art house cinema
and Gold Class, where you sit in armchairs and can eat and
Village Gold Class Cinemas You‘re ushered into your
drink to your heart’s content. Q Tickets 159Kč, Mon 109Kč.
Also at Village Cinemas Černý most. are the top, the ultimate, seats complete with a private
the very best cinemas table by your side. The lights
• 14 cinemas • Modern • Comfortable
Concerts & Opera • Parking art cinema cinema you‘ll ever experience. dim, and the film begins...
The architecture is superb, but be sure to catch this as-
pect that has added to Prague’s fame, her music. Mozart
wasn’t wrong to embrace Prague as fervently as Prague
embraced Mozart.
Municipal House F-3, Praha 1, Nám. Republiky 5, tel.
222 00 21 21, www.obecni-dum.cz. Housing a variety of
halls, the stunning Art Nouveau Obecní dům is the venue for
many classical concerts. Outside, you’ll always find dressed-
up people selling tickets for the ‘best of Mozart’-type shows,
which can be great as they’re usually well performed, and good
for children too as they’re not too long. Q Booking office open
10:00 - 18:00. Tickets 200 - 1,300Kč.
State Opera I-4, Praha 1, Wilsonova 4, tel. 224 22 72
66, www.opera.cz. A fabulous neo-Rococo pile quite unfor- villagecinemas.cz goldclass.cz
tunately wedged between the station, National Museum and
two busy roads. Built in 1888 for Prague’s German Theatre
Association, it is worth a visit for the glamorous gold-and-
plush interior and the view of the sumptuous ceiling alone. National Marionette Theatre D-2, Praha 1, Žatecká Divadlo Hybernia F-3, Praha 1, nám. Republiky 4, tel.
Operas are usually performed in the original language, with 1, tel. 224 81 93 22, www.mozart.cz. 221 41 94 12, www.divadlo-broadway.cz. Dating back to
Říše loutek D-2, Praha 1, Žatecká 1, tel. 222 32 45
Czech or English subtitles projected above the stage. For
tours of the building, contact Prague’s tourist office. Q 65, www.riseloutek.cz.
the reign of Charles IV, this building was recently refurbished
and now provides a home to Golem, a musical of the Jewish
Booking office open 10:00 - 17:30; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 12:00, legend, which plays daily with English subtitles. NB Rows 1-6
& 32-33 are not good for viewing the subtitles. Q Tickets
13:00 - 17:30. Tickets 100 - 1,150Kč.
Stavovské divadlo (Estates Theatre) E-3, Praha 1, Theatre 599 - 799Kč. Box office open 10:00 - 02:00. Performances
Ovocný trh 1, tel. 224 22 85 03, www.narodni-divadlo.cz. There are nearly 40 theatres in Prague, but nearly all run on at 19:00. 15:00 & 19:00 Sat & 15:00 Sun. PA
The first theatre to be built in Prague, and it was also here that a repertory system so plays only appear two or three times Divadlo Ponec Praha 3, Husitská 24, tel. 222 72 15
Mozart’s Don Giovanni made its debut to a rapturous Czech a month. Because tickets are relatively cheap they can be 31, www.divadloponec.cz.
audience; the opera was destined to bomb in Vienna. Q like gold dust and most theatres will have queues at the box Laterna Magika C-4, Praha 1, Národní 4, tel. 222 22
Booking office open 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets 30 - 1,000Kč. office at the beginning of every season. So your best bet is 20 41, www.laterna.cz. Laterna Magika developed a new
Klementinum D-3, Praha 1, Křižovnická 2, tel. 221 to try one of the ticket agencies around the city. You will pay way of combining theatre, dance, music and film for the 1958
66 32 60, www.klementinum.cz. The beautiful building a premium for your ticket, but you won’t catch cold. Brussels Expo, and was doing multi-media performances
is home to some good classical music concerts in sublime before the word even existed. All productions are visually
grounds. Plus now, the Codex Gigas or Devil’s Bible is on Divadlo Alfred ve dvoře I-1, Praha 7, Fr. Křížka 36, orientated with no spoken Czech - ideal for foreigners. Q
show until Jan 6, 2008. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. tel. 233 37 69 97, www.alfredvedvore.cz. A small theatre Performances start at 20:00. Tickets 735Kč.
Performances start at 18:00 unless otherwise specified. specialising in moving, visual and experimental theatre and National Theatre C-4, Praha 1, Národní třída 2, tel.
Karlín Music Theatre Praha 8, Křižíkova 10, tel. 221 dance, with several performances that can be enjoyed by 224 90 16 68, www.narodni-divadlo.cz. Prague’s most
86 87 77, objednavky@hdk.cz, www.hdk.cz. The theatre non-Czech speakers. Ticket office and bar opens an hour beautiful riverside building hosts a wealth of performances,
has a long history in the city; its first performance was the before each performance.Q All performances are at 20:00 mostly concerts and opera. Find the booking office in the
circus back in 1881. Fast forward to the floods of 2002 which unless specified otherwise. Advance bookings at Praha 1, modernist glass building next door. Q Booking office open
saw the historic building practically destroyed. The theatre Celetná 17; BIO OKO Bar, Praha 7, Fr. Křížka 15 & Praha 2, 10:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 12:30, 15:00 - 18:30.
reopened in 2006 and has been hosting a string of popular Polí pět, Dittrichova 13. Tickets 150/90Kč. Švandovo divadlo Praha 5, Štefánikova 57, tel. 234 65
musicals ever since. Q 230-700 Kč. Divadlo Archa J-3, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 26, tel. 221 71 11 11, www.svandovodivadlo.cz. Local and international
61 11, fax 221 716 666, www.archatheatre.cz. Affection- plays, both classic and contemporary; always something
Puppet theatre ately known as the “alternative National Theatre,” Archa has
done wonders for Prague’s cultural scene. It’s not necessarily
interesting going on at Švandovo. They offer English subtitles
on screens above the stage, so your best bet are seats in
Prague is famous for puppets, and these shows make a an “English” theatre, however their eclectic line-up often the balcony. We’ve listed the plays going on in February, but
great night out as language is not usually a barrier. transcends language barriers. Check their website - you never visit their website for other dramatic and occasionally musical
know what additional items of interest, including concerts, interests. All shows at 19:00 unless otherwise listed.
Divadlo Minor I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 6, tel. 222 23 they’ll have on tap. All shows at 20:00 unless otherwise listed The Duncan Centre Conservatory Praha 4, Branická
17 02, www.minor.cz. Tickets 30-80Kč. QOpen 09:00 - Q Performances start at 20:00 unless stated otherwise. 41, tel. 244 46 13 42, www.duncanct.cz. Contemporary
20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. PTAEGKW dance theatre and school.
prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com April - May 2009
12 CULTURE & EVENTS CULTURE & EVENTS 13

Venue guide SJ Church of Sts. Simon and Juda E-1, Praha 1, Prague PROMS
U milosrdných.
These codes refer to the ones used in our listings. SO State Opera I-4, Praha 1, Wilsonova 4, tel. Mark your calendars for one of the highlights of summer
AC All Colours Theatre E-4, Praha 1, Rytířská 31, 224 22 72 66. in Prague: The Prague Proms international music festival.
tel. 221 61 01 73, www.blacktheatre.cz. SP U Staré paní H-4, Praha 1, Michalská 9, tel. 603 Running from 17 July to 2 August, the line-up is always
AG AghaRTA Jazz Centrum E-3, Praha 1, Železná 55 16 80, www.jazzinprague.com. a fun mix of theme nights, jazz and plain old beautiful
16, tel. 222 21 12 75, www.agharta.cz. SS Spanish Synagogue E-1, Praha 1, Dušní 12, tel. symphonies; most of which take place in the stunning
AJ Akord I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 4, tel. 774 10 10 224 81 00 99, www.jewishmuseum.cz. Obecní dům. Not to be missed.
91, www.akord-jazz.com. TB Theater Broadway I-4, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 31,
AK Akropolis K-4, Praha 3, Kubelíkova 27, tel. 296 tel. 777 08 39 44, www.wow-show.com.
TF Ta Fantastika D-3, Praha 1, Karlova 8, tel. 222 All concerts at 19:00 and held at Obecní dům unless
AR
330 911, www.palacakropolis.cz.
Divadlo Archa J-3, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 26, tel. 22 13 66, www.tafantastika.cz. otherwise stated. www.pragueproms.cz TOP SECRET CLUB
221 71 61 11, www.archatheatre.cz. UN Ungelt Jazz & Blues Club E-2, Praha 1, Týnská Masná 9, Praha 1
ulička 2, tel. 224 89 57 48, www.jazzblues.cz. July
AS St. Agnes’s Convent E-1, Praha 1, U Milosrd- 17 Dvořák’s Night TUESDAY
ných 17. ZO Žofín G-5, Praha 1, Slovanský ostrov 226, tel.
BC Bethleham Chapel D-4, Praha 1, Betlémské 224 93 48 80, www.zofin.cz. 17 Chamber and jazz concert, Convent of St. Top Oldies Night
Nám. 4, tel. 224 24 85 95. Agnes of Bohemia, Na Františku 811 80´& 90´S
BE Bertramka Mozart Museum Praha 5, Mozar- 18 CK Promenade, Žofín Palace Garden, 14:00 DJ VERSUS LIVE MUSIC!
tova 169, tel. 257 31 74 65, fax 257 31 67 Classical Music 18 Jazz Night, Žofín Palace Garden, 21:30
19 French Night WEDNESDAY
53, www.bertramka.cz. Date Time Event Venue
CB Charles Bridge Jazz Club B-2, Praha 1, Saská 3, April 20 Jazz Night, Jazz Club Reduta, 21:30 Just Shhhhh..........
tel. 602 20 88 11, www.jazzblues.cz. 1 19:00 Organ Concert KM 21 Silje Night DANCE AND POP MUSIC
ET Estates Theatre (Stavovské divadlo) E-3, 2 19:30 Prague Symphony Orchestra MH 22 Hollywood Night Vol. 3
THURSDAY
Praha 1, Ovocný trh 1, tel. 224 22 85 03. 3 19:30 Czech Philharmonic RF 26 Caribbean Night
FK Black Theatre of Fr. Kratochvíl H-4, Praha 1, 4 19:30 Prague Symphony Orchestra RF 27 Jazz Night, Jazz Club Reduta, 21:30 Latino Top Secret Chillout
Národní 25, tel. 221 08 52 76. 5 19:00 The Best from Gershwin SS 28 Chamber concert, Convent of St. Agnes of Bohemia, LATIN-AMERICAN MUSIC
GP Galas Palace 8 19:30 Prague Symphony Orchestra MH Na Františku 811 FRIDAY
IM Image Black Theatre H-3, Praha 1, Pařížská 4, 9 19:30 Prague Symphony Orchestra MH 29 James Bond Night
tel. 222 31 44 58, www.imagetheatre.cz. 10 19:30 Czech Philharmonic RF Feel the Difference
JB Jazz Boat D-1, Praha 1, Čechův most, Kotva 11 20:00 George Gershwin - Rhapsody in Blue KM DANCE AND POP MUSIC
August
boat, tel. 603 55 16 80, www.jazzboat.cz. 12 18:00 A.Vivaldi - The Four Seasons KM
13 19:00 Organ Concert KM 1 Jazz Night, Jazz Club Reduta, 21:30 SATURDAY
JS Black light Theatre of Jiří Srnec F-3, Praha
5, U Lékárny 597, tel. 257 92 18 35, www. 14 19:00 The Best from Gershwin SS 2 Final Concert “Space Night” Luxurious Night
blacktheatresrnec.cz. 15 19:30 Czech National Symphony Orchestra MH 80´& 90´s
KC Kongresové centrum Praha Praha 4, Tř. 5. 17 19:00 A.Vivaldi - The Four Seasons KM DJ versus live music!
května 65, tel. 261 17 11 11, www.kcp.cz. 19 19:00 The Best of Czech and World Music SS
KM Klementinum D-3, Praha 1, Karlova 1. 19 17:00 Czech Philharmonic RF
LG Laterna Magika C-4, Praha 1, Národní 4, tel. 21 19:00 Chamber Concert KM
222 22 20 41, www.laterna.cz. 22 19:30 Prague Symphony Orchestra MH
LM Lucerna Music Bar I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 36, 23 19:30 Prague Symphony Orchestra MH
tel. 224 21 71 08, www.musicbar.cz. 24 18:00 A.Vivaldi - The Four Seasons KM
24 19:30 Czech Philharmonic RF
LP Lichtenstein Palace B-2, Praha 1, Malostran-
26 19:00 Eva Urbanová NT
ské Nám. 13.
27 19:00 Organ Concert KM
MG U Malého Glena B-3, Praha 1, Karmelitská 23,
28 19:00 The Best of Czech and World Music SS
tel. 257 53 17 17, www.malyglen.cz.
29 19:30 Nicole Cabell MH
MH Municipal House F-3, Praha 1, Nám. Republiky
30 18:00 George Gershwin - Rhapsody in Blue KM
5, tel. 222 00 21 21, www.obecni-dum.cz.
NC St. Nicholas Church E-3, Praha 1, Staroměstské
May
Nám. 27a, tel. 224 19 09 93.
1 19:30 Czech Philharmonic RF
NM National Museum F-4, Praha 1, Václavské Nám.
2 20:00 B.Smetana, A.Dvořák MH
68, tel. 224 49 71 11, www.nm.cz.
3 20:00 Organ Concert KM
NT National Theatre C-4, Praha 1, Národní třída 2,
4 19:00 A.Vivaldi - The Four Seasons KM
www.narodni-divadlo.cz.
6 19:00 George Gershwin - Rhapsody in Blue KM
RC Rock Café D-4, Praha 1, Národní 20, tel. 224
6 19:30 Czech Philharmonic RF
93 39 47, www.rockcafe.cz.
9 20:00 A.Vivaldi - The Four Seasons KM
RE Reduta D-4, Praha 1, Národní 20, MNárodní 10 19:00 The Best from Gershwin SS
třída, tel. 224 93 34 87.
RF Rudolfinum D-2, Praha 1, Alšovo nábř. 12, tel.
227 05 91 11.
RH Rothmeyr’s Hall at Prague Castle Praha 1 -
Hradčany, www.hrad.cz.
RM Retro Music Hall J-6, Praha 2, Franzouzská 4,
tel. 603 47 67 47, www.retropraha.cz. All you need to know
RX Roxy E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 33, tel. 224 82 62
96, www.roxy.cz. www.inyourpocket.com
SA Sazka Arena Praha 9, Ocelářská 460/2, www.
sazkaarena.cz.

Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com April - May 2009

14 CULTURE & EVENTS CULTURE & EVENTS 15

17 19:00 Rinaldo ET
17 19:00 Aida NT Prague Spring 2009
18 13:00 The Bartered Bride NT
18 20:00 The Secret NT Prague Spring International Music Festival
20 19:00 Le Nozze di Figaro ET 12 May-3 June
21 19:00 La Traviata SO The highly anticipated and hugely appreciated Prague
22 19:00 Carmen SO Spring plays its way into Prague for the 64th year.
23 19:00 Eugene Onegin NT The first festival was in 1946 when the country was
24 17:00 Mozartissimo ET celebrating the end of World War I and the Czech
25 11:00 The Devil and Kate NT Philharmonic was celebrating its 50th anniversary. This
25 19:00 Eugene Onegin NT festival was the commemorating event for both of these
27 19:00 Le Nozze di Figaro ET momentous occasions. An important part of the festival
29 19:00 La Bohème SO is its competition element in which up-and-coming
30 19:00 Carmen NT stars hope to prove themselves on an international
stage; giving audiences the opportunity to see these
May future world class musicians from their beginnings. The
2 13:00 The Secret NT programme this year has an eclectic mix of international
2 20:00 La Traviata NT Markus Huemer Until 5 May stars including violinist Anne-Sophie Mutter; baritone
3 19:00 Rinaldo ET Thomas Hampson and our own mezzo-soprano, Dagmar
4 17:00 Mozartissimo ET 4 19:00 Mary’s Dream NT Pecková. Be sure to take note of the commemorative
5 19:00 The Barber of Seville SO 5 19:00 Vivat Operetta! SO anniversary concerts of some of the world’s greatest
6 19:00 The Magic Flute SO 7 19:00 Phantom of the Opera SO composers like Bohuslav Martinů, Petr Eben, Joseph
8 19:00 Rusalka SO 10 19:00 Causa Carmen NT Haydn, Felix Mendelssohn-Bartholdy and Frederic
8 19:00 Libuše NT 11 19:00 Causa Carmen NT Chopin. We’ve printed here a selection of concerts by
9 19:00 Le Nozze di Figaro ET 13 19:00 Swan Lake SO category; however there are 70 events in total.
10 19:00 Rusalka NT 19 19:00 Vivat Operetta! SO
11 17:00 Mozartissimo ET 19 15:00 La Sylphide / Napoli NT Chamber Music
13 19:00 Vivat Operetta! SO 19 19:00 La Sylphide / Napoli NT May
13 19:00 Rusalka NT 22 20:00 Swan Lake NT Sat 16 Sächsisches Vocalensemble
14 19:00 Eugene Onegin NT 28 19:00 Time of Pain SO Sun 17 Konvergence
15 17:00 Mozartissimo ET 28 19:00 Bohemia Ballet ET Mon 18 Kocian Quartet & Zemlinsky Quartet
16 19:00 Rinaldo ET 29 19:00 Ballet Prague, Junior ET Tue 19 Ivan Ženatý, Lucie Ceralová
17 19:00 Rusalka NT and Stanislav Bogunia
17 19:00 La Bohème SO May Fri 22 Kühn Children’s Choir
© Prague Spring - Ivan Malý 19 19:00 The Bartered Bride NT 3 19:00 Vivat Operetta! SO Fri 22 Nederlands Blazers Ensemble
20 19:00 Le Nozze di Figaro ET 4 19:00 Time of Pain SO and Jordi Savall
13 20:00 Organ Concert KM 21 19:30 Rusalka NT 9 14:00 Solo for Three NT Sun 24 The Czech Nonet
15 20:00 Chamber Concert KM 22 19:00 Le Nozze di Figaro ET 9 19:00 Solo for Three NT Tue 26 AD Trio
16 19:00 A.Vivaldi - The Four Seasons KM 23 14:00 Don Giovanni ET 10 14:00 Swan Lake SO Wed 27 Kopelman Quartet
18 19:00 Vivaldi, Gershwin SS 23 19:00 Don Giovanni ET 10 19:00 Swan Lake SO Fri 29 Kocian Quartet & Zemlinsky Quartet II
18 19:00 George Gershwin - Rhapsody in Blue KM 25 17:00 Mozartissimo ET 13 19:00 Vivat Operetta! SO Sat 30 Kühn Mixed Choir: Bohuslav Martinů
19 20:00 Organ Concert KM 25 19:00 Aida NT 15 20:00 Bubeníček and Friends NT - Cantatas
21 18:00 A.Vivaldi - The Four Seasons KM 26 19:00 Rigoletto SO 16 19:00 Bubeníček and Friends NT
24 20:00 Chamber Concert KM 29 19:00 Aida SO 19 19:00 Phantom of the Opera SO June
25 19:00 Organ Concert KM 31 19:00 Nabucco SO 23 14:00 Causa Carmen NT Tue 2 Hawthorne String Quartet
25 19:00 Vivaldi, Gershwin SS 31 16:00 A Walk Worthwhile NT 23 19:00 Causa Carmen NT
27 19:00 The Best from Gershwin SS 31 20:00 A Walk Worthwhile NT 26 19:00 Romeo & Juliet NT Early Music
28 20:00 A.Vivaldi - The Four Seasons KM 27 19:00 Romeo & Juliet NT May
29 19:00 George Gershwin - Rhapsody in Blue KM 31 19:00 No Words, Confessions ET Sun 17 Capella Regia Praha
30 20:00 Chamber Concert KM Ballet Sat 23 Collegium 1704 - G. F. Händel: La resurrezione
31 19:00 Organ Concert KM April Mon 25 Il Giardino Armonico and Bernarda Fink
2 19:00 Vivat Operetta! SO Black Light Theatre
4 14:00 Solo for Three NT April Theatre & Opera
Opera Daily 19:30 Aspects of Alice TF May
April 1,5,8,15,19,22,29 Wed 13 Antonín Dvořák: Rusalka (premiere)
1 19:00 Madama Butterfly SO 20:00 Black Box IM Thu 14 P. I. Tchaikovsky: Eugene Onegin
2 19:00 Vivat Operetta! SO 1-5 20:00 Legend of the Argonauts LG Fri 15 Bubeníček & Friends
3 17:00 Mozartissimo ET 2,9,12,16,23,26,30 Sat 16 G. F. Händel: Rinaldo
3 19:00 Eugene Onegin NT 20:00 Cabinet IM Sun 17 Giaomo Puccini: La Bohème
5 19:00 Eugene Onegin NT 2-5,7,9-16,18-21,23-24,28-30 Tue 19 Bedřich Smetana: The Bartered Bride
6 19:00 Rinaldo ET 20:00 Wow Show TB Sat 23 W. A. Mozart: Don Giovanni
8 19:00 Aida SO 3,4,10,11,17,18,24,25 Thu 28 Ch. W. Gluck: Orfeo ed Euridice (premiere)
8 19:00 La Clemenza di Tito ET 20:00 The Best of Image IM
11 19:00 La Bohème SO 6,7,13,14,20,21,27,28 Where? Various venues throughout town, including
11 19:00 Don Giovanni ET 20:00 Studio Clip IM the State Opera House, National Theatre, Rudolfinum;
12 13:00 The Secret NT 7-12,21-25,30 Municipal House and the Czech Museum of Music.
12 19:30 La Traviata NT 20:00 Wonderful Circus LG Check www.festival.cz for full concert program and
13 21:00 Mozartissimo ET 14,15,18,20 ticket information; tickets can be purchased through
14 19:00 Rusalka SO 20:00 Cocktail 008 LG www.ticketpro.cz.
15 19:00 Don Giovanni ET Thriller live 2 April 27-29 20:00 Rendez-vous LG

Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com April - May 2009

16 CULTURE & EVENTS

Theatre Jazz, Blues, Funk

April
Karlín Music Theatre 1 20:30 Jiří Hála and his Jazz Band CB
Praha 8, Křižíkova 10, 221 86 86 66, www.hdk.cz 3 20:30 Luboš Andršt Blues band CB
Musicals with English subtitles. All shows at 19:00, 6 20:30 Petr Zeman Jazz Quintet CB
unless otherwise noted. 7 20:30 Petra Studená and This CB
Carmen: 1-4 April; 20-23, 27-30 May 8 20:30 Doublefish CB
Čardášová princezna: 9-10 April; 9, 10, 17 May 10 20:30 Luboš Andršt Blues band CB
(May shows at 15:00) 12 20:30 Alice Springs Blues band CB
Limonádový Joe: 15-16 April; 13, 15 May 14 20:30 Jiří Hála and his Jazz Band CB
Noc na Karlštejně: 25, 29 April; 16 May
16 21:00 Yvonne Sanchez LM
Producenti: 22-24 April; 2, 3 May
19 19:00 Pasion de Buena Vista KC
(May shows at 15:00)
19 21:00 Poogie Bell Band LM
Švandovo Divadlo 21 20:30 Petr Zeman Jazz Quintet CB
23 21:30 Rez Abbasi Jazz Quartet RE
Praha 5, Štefánikova 57, 234 65 11 11, www.
svandovodivadlo.cz 24 20:30 Alice Springs Blues band CB FRANK JACK NORMAN GABRIEL
Theatre with English subtitles. All shows at 19:00. 25 19:30 Lenny White “Present Tense” LM WILDHORN MURPHY ALLEN BARRE
26 20:30 Petra Studená and This CB HUDBA TEXTY LIBRETO REŽIE
Elton John’s Glasses: 1, 7 April
A Month in the Country: 2, 16 April 27 20:30 F.U.T. CB
28 20:30 Doublefish CB
The School for Wives: 3 April PŘÍBĚH ZPRACOVALI EGON KULHÁNEK A ADAM NOVÁK
Much Ado About Nothing: 4, 15, 28 April
Masquerade: 8, 18 April May
The Beggar’s Opera: 10 April 4 21:30 Trevor Watts & Veryan Weston duo RE Vstupenky v síti TicketArt a CK Čedok,
19 21:00 George Duke Band LM v obvyklých předprodejích a v pokladně
The Mandrake: 14, 20 April divadla Křižíkova 10, Praha 8,
Strangers on a Train: 17 April tel.: 221 868 666, objednavky@hdk.cz
Exhibitons WWW.HDK.CZ ENGLISH SUBTITLES

May Dances and Festivities of the 16-18th century

Daily 19:30 Aspects of Alice TF Until 3 May
1-2,4-5,7-9,12,14,17,19,21-23,26,28-30 It’s spring – see how the ancestors celebrated with this
20:00 Wow Show TB fascinating collection of dance and art spanning the
1,2,8,9,15,16,22,23,29,30 Renaissance, Baroque and Rococo periods. Paintings,
20:00 The Best of Image IM musical instruments, costumes, theatre props, fans, graphic
3,6,13,17,20,27,31 art, glass, porcelain, dance manuals and other contemporary
20:00 Black Box IM prints are displayed. Court dances, associated in particular

EN
4,5,11,12,18,19,25,26 with festivals such as masquerade balls, theatrical dance

CARM
20:00 Studio Clip IM performances etc., are placed in deliberate contrast to rural
7,10,14,21,28
20:00 Cabinet IM
dances such as those practiced at village fêtes.
Where? Waldstein Riding School, Praha 1, Valdštejnská 3, LIMONÁDOVÝ
Noise
257 07 31 36, www.ngprague.cz
JOE
April
1
1
19:00
20:00
Solar and the 7 Grand Players
The Sisters of Mercy
RX
AR
ČARDÁŠOVÁ
3
4
19:30
19:00
Burian
In Flames + support
AK
RM
PRINCEZNA
6 21:00 The Subways LM
N
7 20:00 Circlesquare RX
ENT I KAR OC NA
ODUC LŠTE
8 21:00 Project Pitchfork LM
10
13
20:00
19:30
Lucie Bílá
Escape The Fate,
LM
PR JNĚ
Emery & special guests LM
14 21:00 US3 LM
16 20:00 The Dhol Foundation RX
18 22:00 ZEN with James Zabiela RX
20 19:30 Defunkt AK
22 20:00 The Butthole Surfers AR
23 20:00 Fanfare Ciocarlia AK
23 20:00 Per Gessle (The Man from Roxette) LM WWW.HDK.CZ ENGLISH SUBTITLES
23 19:00 Southpaw RX
29 21:00 United Flavour LM
30 22:00 Beatcase night: Special Guest Mr.Scruff RX NEJVÍCE HVĚZD POD JEDNOU STŘECHOU
May Vstupenky v síti TicketArt a CK Čedok, v obvyklých předprodejích a v pokladně divadla Křižíkova 10, Praha 8, tel.: 221 868 666, objednavky@hdk.cz
5 21:00 Jimi Tenor LM
6 19:00 And you will know us by the trail of dead RX
28 20:00 Manfred Mann’s Earth band RM
29 20:00 Tim Hecker AK A Sculpture of Home - Franta Úprka Until 10 May

Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com

18 CULTURE & EVENTS
www.inyourpocket.com
Markus Huemer: Answers Don’t Fall from the Sky,
Either
Until 5 May
Austrian artist Markus Huemer believes the abstract nature
of digital images undermines the legitimacy of modernist
aesthetic, which puts a premium on abstraction. See
for yourself at this exhibition of 15 medium to large-size
paintings and two projections. Huemer employs both
traditional and new media elements in his work, so expect
a mix of paintings and digital technology.
Where? DOX Centre for Contemporary Art, Praha 7, Osadní
34, 774 14 54 34, www.doxprague.org
Jiří David – Anticipatory Retrospective
Until 6 May
Jiří David is one of the key figures of the Czech art scene in the
past quarter century and his name is known around the world.
This exhibition showcases David as a creative personality
first and foremost; who has been inspiring developments in
contemporary Czech art since the second half of the 1980s.
Pictures, installations and objects representing the breadth
of David’s work will be shown.
Where? Municipal Library, Praha 1, Mariánské náměstí 1,
222 31 04 89, www.ghmp.cz
A Sculpture of Home
Until 10 May
This exhibition by Czech sculpture artist Franta Úprka shows
a rarely seen chapter in Czech sculpture from the turn of
the 20th century. His work represents a combination of
popular European trends of the day with influences from
his native Moravia.
Where? Czech Museum of Fine Arts, Praha 1, Husova 19-21,
222 22 11 90, www.cmvu.cz
In Spectrum of Variety 11+1
Until 28 June
A representative showing of 1900-1950 Czech artworks
belonging to the City Gallery Prague. The installation is aimed
at creating a broad picture of the development of Czech art
in the first half of the 20th century. You’ll see works ranging
from František Bílek to modernists like Bohumil Kubišta;
avant-garde’s like Miroslav Ponc plus works by Josef Šíma
and Alois Wachsman. An excellent crash course in Czech
art history.
Where? House of the Golden Ring, Praha 1, Týnská 6, 224
82 70 22, www.ghmp.cz
Tickets
Bohemia Ticket International F-3, Praha 1, Na
Příkopě 16, tel. 224 21 50 31, www.ticketsbti.cz.
QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 -
15:00. Also at (E-3) Praha 1, Malé nám. A
Ticket Art I-4, Praha 1, Politických vězňů 9, tel. 222
89 75 52, www.ticket-art.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00,
Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Ticketpro E-3, Praha 1, Rytířská 12, tel. 296 32 99
99, www.ticketpro.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. A
Ticketstream I-6, Praha 2, Koubkova 8, tel. 224 26
30 49, www.ticketstream.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sun. A
Prague In Your Pocket
Národní třída 4, 110 00 Praha 1
www.laterna.cz
FIRST MULTIMEDIA THEATRE IN THE WORLD
Transparency Until 30 June
Transparency
Until 30 June
Wander the streets of Prague at night, and see if you can spot
the art. Transparency is a large scale, outdoor contemporary
art exhibit held in conjunction with the Czech EU presidency.
Six renowned artists including Julian Opie, Stephan Reusse,
Jaume Plensa, Arthur Duff, Ulla Rauter and Jenny Holzer
have created visual high lights and illumination projections
scattered through the centre of town.
Where? Visit these areas; all projections/sculptures/
designs are outdoors. National Theatre; Vltava River LATERNA MAGIKA´s
at Novotneho lavka, Old Town Bridge Tower; nam. Jana
Palacha and the National Museum. www.wartprojects. secret is in its mixture of film
com and life performance.
The countinous search for novelty
Happenings
Thriller live
and originality stemming from
2 April the combination of these
You’ve heard the rumours – now get the truth from the
Broadway version of the King of Pop’s life. Yep, the gloved elements lies at the heart
one’s history is told here via songs by him and the Jackson of the ensembles
5. Wacko.
Where? Kongresové centrum, Praha 4, 5.května 65, www. creative work.
kcp.cz. Tickets available through TicketPro, www.ticketpro.
cz
Buena Vista Social Club
22 April
The sounds and spirit of Cuba come to Prague tonight. Music,
singing dancing – it’s all here; except for the rum and cigars,
unfortunately. An 11-piece band, plus Cachito, Guajiro Mirabal
and Manuel Galbán will be in attendance. This stellar group
has won a beach full of awards and have honed their skills
in son montunos, danzón, cha cha cha, boleros, and Cuban
jazz. Not to be missed.
Where? Kongresové centrum, Praha 4, 5.května 65, www.
kcp.cz. Tickets available through TicketPro, www.ticketpro.
cz
Beyoncé
30 April
I…Am in Prague. Beyoncé brings her smooth vocals, upbeat
tunes and stylish duds to town. Her European tour sees her
hitting a ton of countries, but hopefully she’ll be past the
jetlag by now.
Where? O2 Arena, Praha 9, Ocelářská 2, www.o2arena.
cz. Tickets can be purchased through Sazka Ticket, www.
sazkaticket.cz
prague.inyourpocket.com
box office: 224 931 482 • fax: 222 222 039 • info@laterna.cz
20 CULTURE & EVENTS
BookWorld 2009
14-17 May
In honour of the Czech EU presidency, BookWorld is taking on
a European theme for its 15th event. A variety of European
writers will discuss life in a united Europe, questions of
identity and diversity in European literature and recent
trends. In addition, themes covering education and literature
and books on film will be covered. Check www.bookworld.cz
for schedule information, author appearances and events
which are English-friendly.
Where? Výstaviště Praha, Praha 7, www.bookworld.cz
World Roma Khamoro Festival
25-31 May
The aim of this festival is to show the richness of Roma
culture and traditions; contribute to the integration of the
Roma community into Czech society and aid in improving
relations between society and the Roma community
through presentations of Roma culture. A varied cultural
program, plus expert panel discussions will occur over the
seven days. The highlight is always the excellent gypsy
bands scheduled to play; but a variety of films, dance
workshops and exhibitions means there is something
for everyone.
Where? Various venues throughout town check www.
khamoro.cz for a full listing of events. Tickets can be
purchased through TicketPro, www.ticketpro.cz
Spring Fling
Spring is springing and after all the snow and cold of this past
winter; we could use a little sunshine. Easter isn’t so much a
Christian holiday here; as a welcome to spring one. Easter
Monday, 13 April, is a public holiday. To get in the spirit, visit one
of the Easter markets, on either Old Town Square or Wenceslas
Square. They are open through 19 April. Both decorations
and items to buy will be concentrated on tokens of spring.
An excellent souvenir this time of year would be some of the
beautifully hand painted eggs. There will be many to choose
from at the Easter markets. A massive decorated birch tree
will be monitoring the events on Old Town Square. Children’s
events there include a puppet theatre and workshops where
kids can make ornaments and design pomlázkas. These tra-
ditional braided birch rods are used as whipping toys on Easter
Monday. Men and boys would traditionally walk through town
“whipping” women and girls who then rewarded this behaviour
with coloured eggs or other small treat. Men usually want a
shot. It’s thought that the whipping will ensure fertility, beauty
and good health in the coming year.
Some special Easter treats to watch out for include lamb-
shaped sponge cake, often covered in chocolate; sweet
buns; gingerbread cookies and jidáše or Judas rolls, which
are sweet rolls glazed with honey. The Easter meal usually
includes a special spring vegetable soup and an Easter
dressing made with nettles.
There are some other interesting spring traditions in the
Czech Republic. The night of April 30-May 1 is the evening
of the witches. It’s said evil spirits are extra active this night
so folks used to burn fires around their villages to keep away
the wickedness. Recent custom has people setting alight
homemade witches in a symbolic “burning” away of winter
and welcome to spring. You don’t see it too often in Prague,
but make a trip to a smaller village outside the city on 25-26
April, and it’s quite likely you’ll find a bonfire. If you are look-
ing for something traditionally Czech, especially if it’s a nice
day, check out the Folklore Garden (P.34) for an authentic
Prague In Your Pocket
CULTURE & EVENTS 21
Sports
Champions League Volleyball Finals
4-5 April
Set and Spike! The best of the best, volleyball-wise, will be
on display this weekend at the Final Four 2008/2009 CEV
Indesit Champions League.
Where? O2 Arena, Praha 9, Ocelářská 2, www.o2arena.
cz. Tickets can be purchased through Sazka Ticket, www.
sazkaticket.cz.
Marathon Weekend
9-10 May
Of course you want to run a marathon on holiday! Lucky
World Roma Khamoro Festival 25-31 May you to be in town this weekend when the Prague Marathon
trots through. Admittedly, it is probably one of the loveliest
Jethro Tull marathons in the world; meandering as it does through Old
31 May & 1 June Town Square, along the Vltava and other picturesque spots.
The legendary Jethro Tull hits Prague for two exciting shows. Last year runners from more than 70 countries took part. If
Ian Anderson on the flute, mandolin and harmonic; Martin you’re not so much a joiner, there will be 20 bands playing
Barre takes on the electric guitar, while Doane Perry is in along the route so get out and listen. If you are in town over
charge of the drums. Oh yea, rounding out the fivesome; the weekend, be prepared for tram re-routings and closed
John O’Hara on keyboards and David Goodier on bass. Going streets.
strong since the ‘60’s, JT hasn’t stopped. Where? Through Central Prague, visit www.praguemarathon.
Where? Kongresové centrum, Praha 4, 5.května 65, www. com for more information
kcp.cz. Tickets can be purchased through TicketStream,
www.ticketstream.cz
Football
Winter break is over and the four Prague teams (three in the
first league) are back in action. Will Slavia keep hold of their
first place standing? Will Žižkov make it off the bottom?
singing and dancing show. Modeled on a traditional Czech Ohh, the suspense of the final two months of the season.
village; you can enjoy lots of Czech beer and food with tunes Sunny day, nothing beats an afternoon at the pitch. Tickets
and interactive entertainment. If you are in Prague on 1 May, can usually be bought the day of; so walk up and enjoy the
be sure to kiss your significant other underneath a blooming match.
cherry tree to ensure good health and a long-lasting love. A trip
up to Petřín Hill is a good place – you likely can join in a mass Sparta
kiss-off of other lovers hoping to guarantee affections. AXA Aréna, Praha 7, Milady Horákové 98, www.
sparta.cz
Prague Easter Festival 4 April: FC Slovan Liberec, 17:00
The Prague Symphony Orchestra and the Czech Philhar- 18 April: FC Viktoria Plzeň, 17:00
monic have teamed up for a series of special concerts 2 May: FC Baník Ostrava, 17:00
during this holy time. The concerts are held at four differ- 16 May: Bohemians Praha, 17:00
ent venues; check www.fok.cz for more program details 23 May: FK Baumit Jablonec, 17:00
and venue information. All concerts at 19:30, unless
otherwise noted. Bohemians 1905
April Ďolíček stadión, Praha 10, Vršovická 31, www.fc-
5 Ensemble Tourbillon, Church of St. Simon and Jude bohemians.cz
6 Special concert celebrating the founding of the 5 April: Vítkovice, 17:00
Prague Conservatory, Municipal House 19 April: Čáslav, 17:00
6 Schola Gregoriana Pragensis, Church of 26 April: Fulnek, 17:00
St. Simon and Jude 5 May: Slovácko, 17:00
7 Collegium Gabriely Demeterové, Church of 24 May: Hradec Králové, 17:00
St. Simon and Jude
7 AD Trio Prague, Church of St. Lawrence FK Viktoria Žižkov
8 Dvořák: Requiem, Municipal House Stadión Viktorky, Praha 3, Seifertova, www.fkvz.cz
9 Dvořák: Requiem, Municipal House 4 April: SK Sigma Olomouc, 10:15
9 Czech Philharmonic Orchestra, Rudolfinum 26 April: SK Kladno, 10:15
10 Collegium Marianum, Church of St. Simon and Jude 3 May: Dynamo České Budějovice, 10:15
10 Czech Philharmonic Orchestra, Rudolfinum 17 May: SK Slavia Praha, 10:15
11 Octopus Pragensis, Rudolfinum (19:00) 30 May: FC Viktoria Plzeň, 17:00
14 Prague Baroque Ensemble - Jan Dismas Zelenka,
Rudolfinum Slavia
Stadión Eden, Praha 10, Vladivostocká 10, www.
Where? Various venues throughout town, check www.fok. slavia.cz
cz for more information. Tickets can be purchased at the 13 April: AC Sparta Praha, 17:15
Prague Symphony office: Praha 1, Municipal House, nám. 26 April: FK Mlada Boleslav, 17:00
Republiky 5 (in the Municipal House Cultural and Informa- 10 May: Dynamo Ceske Budejovice, 17:00
tion Centre,) 222 00 23 36, pokladna@fok.cz. 30 May: FC Slovan Liberec, 15:00
prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com April - May 2009
22 WHERE TO STAY
Prague has a long tradition of hospitality having hosted
generations of travellers, thinkers and invading armies.
However, to the modern guest this may not be immedi-
ately apparent as the tradition of customer service is
somewhat shorter. Generally, the further you travel into
residential Prague, the cheaper the rooms become (and
the quirkier the environment). Late night revellers stagger-
ing home to musical accompaniment can make a stay in
the Old Town less than peaceful, so check out your hotel’s
location before signing up. Alternatively, find a hotel when
you get here, and always ask for a discount. Chances are
you’ll get one.
Cream of the crop
Aria A-2, Praha 1, Tržiště 9, MMalostranská, tel. 225
33 41 11, fax 225 33 41 31, stay@aria.cz, www.aria.
cz. A music-dominated hotel, that offers wonderful service,
luxurious rooms (all modelled to honour a particular artist, be
it John Coltrane, ABBA or Mozart), and the opportunity to enjoy
relaxing music in the privacy of a secluded listening room.
The hotel even has a musical director who will recommend
music to suit your mood, while also advising on concerts.
Q52 rooms (27 doubles €235 - 360, 5 suites €595 - 650,
2 apartments €625 - 1200, 18 junior suites €295 - 450).
PTHARUFLGBKD hhhhh
NEW
Buddha Bar Hotel F-3, Praha 1, Jakubská 8, MNáměstí
Republiky, tel. 221 77 63 00/724 17 01 97, fax 221 77
63 10, buddha@cpihotels.cz, www.buddha-bar-hotel.cz.
You may be familiar with the Buddha Bar Restaurants in Paris,
London, and the like. Now for the first time ever the brand has
opened its own hotel. Expect over the top everything: Design,
service, prices. Billed as a “unique urban resort,” the hotel
offers 36 rooms and three suites. Amenities include good-
night chocolates; HD interactive TV; Buddha-Bar music library;
Wi-Fi and wired internet access; refrigerated private bar. And
a bed. Q Superior rooms from EUR 444; Premier rooms from
EUR 575; Suites from EUR 1250. Includes breakfast and all
taxes. PJAFKDW
Corinthia Towers Praha 4, Kongresová 1, MVyšehrad,
tel. 261 19 11 11, fax 261 21 16 73, towers@corinthia.
cz, www.corinthia.cz. All the convenience you would demand
from a 24-floor hotel in a capital city. In addition to a top-class
oriental and Italian restaurant, facilities include a casino, fitness
centre and ten-pin bowling. Q544 rooms (120 singles €260
- 300, 388 doubles €260 - 300, triples €350 - 390, 20 suites
€410 - 1570, 1 presidential suite €1570, 16 junior suites €410).
ACDFGHKLPRTU hhhhh
Four Seasons D-2, Praha 1, Veleslavínova 2a,
MStaroměstská, tel. 221 42 70 00, fax 221 42 60 00,
reservations.prg@fourseasons.com, www.fourseasons.
com/prague. Just a step from Charles Bridge, the Four
Prague In Your Pocket
Symbol key
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
O Casino H Conference facilities
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
R Internet L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms
K Restaurant M Nearest metro station
D Sauna C Swimming pool
6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi
Seasons affords its guests with as much class and comfort
as is humanly possible. Over a year was spent renovating
the four buildings that provide a roof over your head, which
range from 500-year-old elegance to contemporary design.
Q161 rooms (singles €275 - 550, 141 doubles €295 - 570,
20 apartments €695 - 3900). PTHARUFLG
BKD hhhhh
Grand Hotel Bohemia F-3, Praha 1, Králodvorská 4,
MNám. Republiky, tel. 234 60 81 11, fax 222 32 95 45,
office@grandhotelbohemia.cz, www.grandhotelbohemia.
cz. An Austrian-run hotel with attractive Art Nouveau rooms
and staff who are renowned for their efficiency. The hotel has
a café and laundry service. Q78 rooms (10 singles €175
- 240, 65 doubles €210 - 280, 3 junior suites €310 - 540).
PHARULGK hhhhh
Grand Hotel Praha E-3, Praha 1, Staroměstské nám.
22, MStaroměstská, tel. 221 63 25 56, fax 221 63 25
58, info@grandhotelpraha.cz, www.grandhotelpraha.cz.
Run by the Apostolic Residence crew, the neighbouring Grand
Hotel is an equally sumptious place to stay, with suitably grand
views over Old Town Square and classically furnished rooms.
Q20 rooms (1 single €128 - 213, 18 doubles €153 - 320,
1 apartment €356 - 463). 34 rooms - 1 attic apartment
/239 - 399 EUR/ 1 presidential apartment /277 - 499 EUR/
11 dbl deluxe /159 - 309 EUR/ 20 dbl superior /139 - 279/1
sgl /129 - 229 EUR. PAKD hhhh
Hilton Prague J-2, Praha 8, Pobřežní 1, MFlorenc,
tel. 224 84 11 11, fax 224 84 23 78, sales.prague@
hilton.com, www.prague.hilton.com. Easily recognisable
as the glass box on the Vltava, Hilton Prague has all the
facilities expected in this international brand. 24 hour bars,
restaurants and services and a casino. Q788 rooms (20
singles €150 - 280, 646 doubles €150 - 280, 91 triples €166
- 296, 19 suites €308 - 438, 3 apartments €686 - 816, 8
junior suites €266 - 396, 1 presidential suite €956 - 1089).
ACDFGHKLOPRTU hhhhh
Hilton Prague Old Town I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 7,
MNám. Republiky, tel. 221 822 100, fax 221 822 200,
www.hilton.com. Just refurbished and opened in November;
this Hilton boasts an enviable site in town. All the high-class
Hilton amenities are available in a new and lovely setting.
Also a treat in town, Maze restaurant is here; renowned chef
Gordon Ramsey making his Prague debut. Q310 rooms
(299 doubles €140 - 250, 10 suites €399 - 459, 1 apartment
€950). PTJHARUFLGKDC hhhhh
InterContinental Praha E-1, Praha 1, Nám. Curieových
43/5, MStaroměstská, tel. 296 63 11 11, fax 224 81
12 16, prague@ihg.com, www.intercontinental.com/
prague. The friendliest front desk and most helpful concierge
prague.inyourpocket.com
WHERE TO STAY 23
in all of Prague might be your first contact with this big, interna-
tional hotel that has been looking after high flyers since before
the fall of communism. All the facilities you would expect,
including a superb fitness centre. Q372 rooms (155 singles
€149 - 270, 128 doubles €149 - 290, 24 suites €349 - 490,
2 apartments €1830 - 4200, 63 junior suites €199 - 340).
PHARUFLGBKDC hhhhh
Josef F-2, Praha 1, Rybná 20, MNám. Republiky, tel.
221 70 01 11, fax 221 70 09 99, reservation@hoteljosef.
com, www.hoteljosef.com. One of Prague’s first design
hotels (from Eva Jiřičná) is crammed, in a minimalist way, with
style and edges. Some rooms have lovely views and come
interestingly with see-through bathroom walls. The white
lobby introduces the stylist elements beautifully and the
serene garden around which the whole place revolves pro-
vides a delightful contrast. A subtle space for the discerning
traveller and not a few celebrities. Q110 rooms (8 singles
€149 - 253, 102 doubles €173 - 296). PHARUFL
GBKW hhhhh
NEW
Kempinski Hybernská Prague J-3, Praha 1, Hybern-
ská 12, MNáměstí Republiky, tel. 226 22 61 11, fax
226 22 61 23, reservations.prague@kempinski.com,
www.kempinski-prague.com. Luxury squared at the new
Kempinski hotel. The property dates back to the 15th century
and has been carefully reconstructed to offer 75 rooms and
suites. Expect the usual: air conditioning, telephone, TV, radio,
minibar, hairdryer, bath robe, safe, and high-speed internet
wifi connection, non-smoking rooms. Suites feature separate
bedroom and living areas, fitted kitchenette, guest WC and
walk-in closets. Big bonus: the hotel has its own private
garden and atrium.Q Superior rooms from EUR 249; Grand
Deluxe rooms from EUR 295; One bedroom suites from EUR
375; includes breakfast. PJHAUFGK
C E N T R A L R E S E R VA T I O N S :
Le Palais J-6, Praha 2, U Zvonařky 1, MI.P. Pavlova,
tel. 234 63 41 11, fax 234 63 46 35, info@palaishotel. tel: +420 224 248 752
cz, www.palaishotel.cz. Modern elegance personified in booking@europehotels.cz
this renovated Belle Epoch building in leafy Vinohrady with
fabulous views over Nusle. Rooms are luxurious with all mod www.europehotels.cz
cons plus DVD players, but two suites even have their own
fireplaces. Classically stylish and so lavish you won’t want to
leave. Q90 rooms (30 singles €220 - 295, 60 doubles €225
- 305). PHAR6UIFGBKD hhhhh
Paris I-3, Praha 1, U Obecního domu 1, MNám. Repub-
liky, tel. 222 19 51 95, fax 224 22 54 75, booking@
hotel-paris.cz, www.hotel-paris.cz. Everything is Art
Nouveau in this building, from its intricate façade to the
lamps and other furnishings in its café and restaurant. Even
the brass door handles on the antique lifts are decorated
in this beautiful style. Take the stairs and be rewarded with HO T E L S A N D A PA RT M E N T S :
stained glass windows and red carpets rolled out for each AMOUR I APPIA I ARISTON I
guest in the hallways. Q86 rooms (70 doubles €160 - 360, ARISTON PATIO I BELVEDERE I CARLTON I
3 apartments €500 - 3700, 13 junior suites €280 - 520). ELYSEE I KAVALÍR I MARKÉTA I
ABDGHKLPRT hhhhh ROMANTICKÝ HOTEL MLÝN KARLŠTEJN
Prague Marriott I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 8, MNám.
Republiky, tel. 222 88 88 88, fax 222 88 88 89, prague.
marriott@marriotthotels.com, www.marriottprague.
com. Bigger really is better; plus you’ve got an excellent
location to boot. Every amenity imaginable and size, lots of it.
Higher priced suites have two levels. The rooms have recently
been renovated for an extra pop of luxury and comfort. If you
are shelling out for a suite or better, then breakfast in the
Executive Lounge is included. Q293 rooms (258 doubles
€149 - 315, 33 suites €359 - 495). PTHARUFL
GKDC hhhhh
prague.inyourpocket.com April - May 2009
24 WHERE TO STAY
President H-2, Praha 1, nám. Curieových 100,
MStaroměstská, tel. 234 61 41 11, fax 234 61 41 10,
reservations@hotelpresident.cz, www.hotelpresident.
cz. A range of top-class suites, an executive floor, a casino
and a fitness room and spa, have earned the President five
star status (though even their large standard rooms have a
sofa). Photographs throughout the hotel complement the
elegant décor of pale yellows and blue glass. All staff seem
genuinely pleased to be here and smile broadly. Q130 rooms
(7 singles €165 - 225, 65 doubles €145 - 225, 22 triples
€145 - 225, 32 junior suites €195 - 255, 3 senior suites €295
- 355, 1 presidential suite €800 - 1100). Executive floor add
€50 on all types of rooms. POTHARUFLKD
hhhhh
Radisson SAS Alcron I-5, Praha 1, Štěpánská 40,
MMůstek, tel. 222 82 00 00, fax 222 82 01 00, sales.
prague@radissonsas.com, www.prague.radissonsas.
com. Built in 1930 and restored to its former glory in 1999,
this place has picked up a heap of design awards. Guests
can expect rooms that have the warmth and grace of state
rooms on a luxury liner. The higher the floor, the more stun-
ning your view of Prague. Extras include a 24-hour limousine
service. Prices do not include VAT. Q211 rooms (12 singles
€169 - 229, 180 doubles €169 - 229, 5 suites €309 - 359,
1 apartment €900 - 1300, 13 junior suites €269 - 309).
PTHARUFLGBKD hhhhh
Royal Palace B2, Praha 1, Letenská 11, MMalostran-
ská, tel. 224 81 12 81, fax 224 81 12 87, royalpalace@
bestwestern.at, www.hotelroyalpalace.cz. The first
5-star Best Western hotel in Europe; the Royal Palace (neigh-
bor to Prague Castle) is fit for royalty. Boutique amenities
and personal touches abound. Only 36 rooms means you’ll
get the attention you need; and the renovated 19th century
building is filled with a charm all its own.Q Single: 140EUR;
Double: 150EUR. PJAUK
Sheraton Prague Charles Square Hotel H-5, Prague
2, Žitná 8, MKarlovo náměstí, tel. 225 99 99 99, fax
225 99 99 09, www.sheraton.com. The Sheraton near
Karlovo náměstí offers comfy beds, a good in between Old
and New Town location plus in room high speed internet con-
nection and a variety of dining options. Modern and sleek,
the first Sheraton in Prague has 160 rooms consisting of
122 deluxe rooms plus 38 suites. It’s a well-located smart
choice.Q Deluxe rooms: 150-250EUR; Suites: 250-650EUR.
PJHA6UFKW hhhhh
Upmarket
Absolut Praha 7, Jablonského 4, MHolešovice, tel. 222
54 14 06, booking@absoluthotel.cz, www.absoluthotel.
cz. The absolute best place to stay in Praha 7. Design Hotel
Absolut is an upscale, clean and shiny place with all the con-
veniences of home; including internet connection and park-
ing. The restaurant is also getting rave reviews so if you are
looking for chic accommodations in a cool ‘hood, absolutely
check in. Q Doubles from EUR 79. PAUFK
Ametyst J-6, Praha 2, Jana Masaryka 11, MNám.
Míru, tel. 222 92 19 21, fax 222 92 19 99, mailbox@
hotelametyst.cz, www.hotelametyst.cz. Nicknamed The
Gallery, it has over 450 paintings by Russian and Romanian
artists on display, and a reputation as one of the more ef-
ficient hotels in Prague. Tucked away in a quiet section of
Vinohrady but close to food and transport hubs and now
with Wi-Fi throughout, this is a good low-key option. Q84
rooms (8 singles €85 - 155, 69 doubles €105 - 215, 7 triples
€130 - 265). PHAULGKDW hhhh
Prague In Your Pocket
WHERE TO STAY 25
Andel’s Praha 5, Stroupežnického 21, MAnděl, tel. 296 88 Barceló Praha Praha 4, Na Strži 32, MPankrác, tel. BW Meteor Plaza I-3, Praha 1, Hybernská 6, MNám.
96 88, fax 296 88 99 99, info@andelshotel.com, www.an- 296 77 21 11, fax 241 44 10 23, hotel@barcelo.cz, Republiky, tel. 224 19 25 59, fax 224 22 06 81, reser-
delshotel.com. Bang in the centre of the upmarket development www.barcelo.com. An excellent Spanish-owned hotel, vation@hotel-meteor.cz, www.hotel-meteor.cz. Within
west of the river, and just a few tramstops from the old town, the this place has extremely friendly staff and small yet comfy shouting distance of the Powder Tower, this Best Western
glittering facilities at Andel’s will blind you with their high-technicity. rooms with minibar and telephone plus free parking in the hotel is full of charm, but then again, there has been an inn
Top-notch accommodation with designer lines. Q231 rooms garage. Q213 rooms (singles €130 - 150, 198 doubles here since 1307. In the 18th century, the man later to become
(singles €235 - 300, 223 doubles €255 - 325, 8 suites €320 - €150 - 170, 15 suites €170 - 240). PHAULK Emperor Josef II wouldn’t lay his head down anywhere else.
380). ADFGHKLPRTU hhhh hhhh Q88 rooms (15 singles €109 - 173, 56 doubles €125 - 190,
10 triples €166 - 239, 6 suites €141 - 217). ADFGH
Angelo Hotel Praha 5, Radlická 1g/3216, MAnděl, tel. Belvedere I-1, Praha 7, Milady Horákové 19, MVl- KLPR hhhh
234 80 11 11, fax 234 80 99 99, info@angelohotel.com, tavská, tel. 220 10 61 11, fax 233 37 44 71, prague@
www.angelohotel.com. Brightly coloured design and black belvedere-hotel.com, www.hotelbelvedere.cz. Situ- Carlton Praha 3, Táboritská 18, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel.
and white photos abound in this buzzing hotel in the happening ated in a lovely area across the Vltava, not far from the 222 71 11 77, fax 222 71 11 99, carlton@europehotels.
area around Anděl. Rooms and even suites are on the small castle, the Belvedere offers wonderful accommodation and cz, www.hotelcarlton.cz. Dark wood and deep green soft
side, but beds are King and all suites have a terrace. The hotel a high level of service. The spacious three-star standard furnishings give a sophisticated air to the rooms. Bathrooms
is designed for the businessman, but robes, TV & DVD afford rooms come with as many mod cons as you could ever are luxurious, while the top floor rooms have vaulted, slanted
pleasure-seekers some comfort too. The safe is notebook- need, and the four-star executive floor has even more on ceilings and suites often go for the same price as a double. A
sized and has an interior plug for safe recharging. The lower offer. Q152 rooms (6 singles €53 - 88, 113 doubles €71 little way out of town, the Carlton has good tram links. Q49
price for a double room is single occupancy. Q168 rooms - 118, 32 triples €89 - 148, 1 quad €89 - 148). Singles rooms (3 singles €73 - 133, 40 doubles €97 - 180, 6 triples
(163 doubles €140 - 255, 2 suites €200 - 300, 3 junior suite from 1200CZK; Doubles from 1550CZK; Triples from €120 - 223). Singles from 1450CZK; Doubles from 1900CZK;
€180 - 280). PHARUFLGBKD hhhh 1950CZK, includes buffet breakfast, city tax and VAT. Triples from 2400CZK, includes buffet breakfast, city tax and
HAULGK hhhh VAT. PHARULGK hhhh
Antik City H-5, Praha 2, Malá Štěpánská 13, MMůstek,
tel. 224 91 91 00, fax 224 91 90 60, info@antikcity.cz, Best Western Premier Hotel Majestic Plaza I-5, Chateau St. Havel Praha 4, V podzámčí 1, tel. 241 44
www.antikcity.cz. A newly reconstructed boutique hotel Praha 1, Štěpánská 33, MMůstek, tel. 221 48 61 00, 57 17, fax 241 44 57 21, info@chateauhotel.cz, www.
in a quiet part of Nové Město. The rooms are classically fax 221 48 64 86, reception@hotel-majestic.cz, www. chateauhotel.cz. The fabulous neo-Gothic Krč castle, south
designed and include sat TV, mini-bar, safe and free internet hotel-majestic.cz. Lavishly renovated buildings around a of Prague’s centre, houses this exclusive hotel. Originally
connection. Their lovely café is a nice place to start or end copper clad courtyard. One is Biedermeier style and sports a 13th century fortress, the building was remodelled into
your day.Q Doubles from 165 EUR. PK slightly cramped but fully mod conned rooms on five floors. its current romantic form in the 1840s, and it still has an
The other is superb art deco and hosts seven floors of rooms extensive English garden. From the elegant lobby with its
Apostolic Residence E-3, Praha 1, Staroměstské with the top floors wielding the terraces and views. Central cassette ceiling and the minimalist restaurant in the chapel
nám. 22, MStaroměstská, tel. 221 63 25 56, fax 221 and stylish, Majestic is the word. Q185 rooms (175 doubles to the regally-styled rooms, this place is certainly for for a
63 25 58, apostolic@prague-residence.cz, www.prague- €125 - 260, 5 triples €165 - 310, 5 apartments €195 - 330). king. Q34 rooms (34 doubles €79 - 149). PTHAR
residence.cz. You can’t get any closer to the Old Town with PHAR6ULGKDW hhhh 6LGK hhhh
these rooms and apartments, right opposite the astronomi-
cal clock. Fabulous views beckon if you tire of your gorgeous,
antique-filled room. Q14 rooms (13 doubles €153 - 320, 1
apartment €213 - 428). PA6GBK hhhh
NEW
Aquapalace Hotel Prague - Čestlice, Pražská, tel. 225
10 88 88, fax 225 10 89 99, info@aquapalacehotel.cz,
www.aquapalacehotel.cz. Located on the outskirts of
Prague, this new hotel’s draw is its direct access to Central
Europe’s largest waterpark. Conference facilities, a wellness
centre, nearby shopping opportunities and of course all the
mod cons one could want mean even if your skin starts to
prune, you’ll have somewhere to go besides the water. Q
TAFLKDC
Astoria F-2, Praha 1, Rybná 10, MNám. Republiky, tel. 221
77 57 11, fax 221 77 57 12, info@hotelastoria.cz, www.
hotelastoria.cz. Astoria occupies a modern building on some
prime real estate in Prague Old Town. Rooms are on the small side,
but comfortable with bright blue interiors, modern wood furnishings
and great views. Top-floor VIP rooms offer more amenities and
enormous balconies. Q74 rooms (singles €99 - 220, 74 doubles
€99 - 240). AGHKLPRTU hhhh
NEW
Barceló F-3, Praha 1, Celetná 29, MNáměstí Republiky,
tel. 222 33 71 11, fax 24144 10 23, oldtownpraha.fom@
barcelo.com, www.barcelo.com. It’s so light and bright!
With a courtyard in its centre; Barceló tosses away the typical
dark lobby and hallways and lets the sun shine in. The lobby
is covered in a skylight and the walk to your room will have
an view to outside. A mix of rooms and suites (28 rooms; 34
suites) with all the mod-cons: mini-bar, TV, DVD player, air-
conditioning, etc. An excellent restaurant as well.Q Deluxe
rooms from EUR 64; Suites from EUR 100. PJAK
prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com April - May 2009
26 WHERE TO STAY
• Unique interior design
• 251 air-conditioned guest rooms
• Café Restaurant Esprit /
Orangerie winter garden
…that’s all about Design
• Délicatesse Bistro Esprit /
Take Away
• 4 meeting rooms with capacity
up to 230 people
• Wi-Fi / High Speed
Internet Access
• Thai massages
• Secured underground parking
• Easy access from D1 highway
• Underground station
Vyšehrad 200 m
Na Pankráci 15, Praha 4,
tel. +420 296 895 000
reservation@holidayinn.cz
www.holidayinn.cz
EXCELLENT HOTEL – hotel that
our guests love. Thank you. Awarded by
InterContinental Hotels Group’s Quality
Control Programme.
Prague In Your Pocket
Corinthia Panorama Praha 4, Milevská 7, MPankrác,
tel. 261 16 11 11/261 16 60 61, fax 261 16 41 41,
panorama@corinthia.cz, www.corinthia.cz. The second,
albeit less exclusive Corinthia hotel in Prague still has excel-
lent services and facilities in rooms and restaurants. The
pool provides panoramic views of the city as one swims
or lounges. Q450 rooms (118 singles €205 - 225, 321
doubles €205 - 225, triples €275 - 295, 1 presidential suite
€1340, 10 junior suites €410). PTHARUFLG
BKDC hhhh
Courtyard Marriott Flora Praha 3, Lucemburská 46,
MFlora, tel. 236 08 80 88, fax 236 08 80 89, www.mar-
riott.com. Billed as hotels designed by business travellers,
every room has a dataport and TV internet (both charged
for standard rooms) and are spacious with desk, ergonomic
chair and a sofa(bed). King size and very comfortable beds
dominate rooms, which have ice buckets, fridge for you to
fill, hairdryer, coffee/tea facilities plus iron in every room and
robe and slippers in superior rooms make the Courtyard a
place to stay. 24hr shop in the lobby plus a cosy bar. Q161
rooms (81 singles €105 - 135, 64 doubles €135 - 175, 13
triples €140 - 200, 1 suite €195 - 245). Breakfast €9-16.
PHAR6UIFLGKW hhhh
Crowne Plaza Prague Castle Praha 1, Strahovská
128, tel. 226 08 00 00, fax 226 08 02 00, cppraguecas-
tle@keyhotels.cz, www.crowneplaza.com. A beautifully
restored 16th century building with modern annexe tucked
behind Strahov Monastery holds this striking new hotel from
InterContinental with glass domed atrium/library and effective
yet simple designs in lighting and furniture. Two wings, one
old, one new, hold spacious rooms with king, queen or twin
beds, desk, plasma TV, smellies from The White Company
and some have a small terrace. The usual services join the
country’s only Ayurvedic spa and clinic, with doctor, therapists
and equipment all imported from Sri Lanka. Luxurious ac-
commodation, supremely personable and delightfully quiet.
Q138 rooms (2 singles €150 - 240, 126 doubles €170 - 260,
3 suites €320 - 400, 7 junior suites €225 - 350). Breakfast
and VAT not included in the price. PTHARUFL
GBKX hhhh
Elysee F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 43, MMůstek, tel.
221 45 51 11, fax 224 22 57 73, elysee@europehotels.
cz, www.hotelelysee.cz. Right in the centre of the city, with
all of Prague’s main attractions just a few minutes walk away.
All rooms are well-appointed, spacious, and have luxurious
bathrooms. Six new apartments have been added to Elysee’s
charm, all fully equipped for 2-6 people. (Prices for apartments
do not include breakfast). Q76 rooms (8 singles €73 - 133,
50 doubles €96 - 180, 12 triples €120 - 223, 6 apartments
€111 - 246). Singles from 1600CZK; Doubles from 2100CZK;
Triples from 2600CZK. Includes buffet breakfast, city tax and
VAT. PAULG hhhh
Élite H-5, Praha 1, Ostrovní 32, MNárodní třída, tel. 224
93 22 50, fax 224 93 07 87, sales@hotelelite.cz, www.
hotelelite.cz. With a history that dates back to the 14th
century, the Élite, a member of the Small Charming group, is
another gem. Totally refurbished in 2000, rooms are suitably
grand, spacious and historic, with wonderful high ceilings, and
lovely antique furniture. Q79 rooms (10 singles €112 - 176,
67 doubles €125 - 199, 1 triple €169 - 267, 1 junior suite
€147 - 216). PARULGBK hhhh
www.inyourpocket.com
prague.inyourpocket.com
Hotel Černý slon F-2, Praha 1,
Týnská 1, MNám. Republiky, tel.
222 32 15 21, fax 222 31 03 51,
slon@hotelcernyslon.cz, www.
hotelcernyslon.cz. This elegant
hotel rolls out the red carpet for all
of its guests. Rooms, decorated with
antique furniture, are spacious and
some include an amazing view of
the surrounding medieval centre. The wine cellar is also
worth a peek. Q16 rooms (2 singles €73 - 113, 10
doubles €117 - 190, 4 triples €153 - 223). PARLK
hhhh
Holiday Inn Praha 4, Na Pankráci 15/1684, MVyšehrad,
tel. 296 89 50 00, fax 296 89 50 10, main@holidayinn.
cz, www.holidayinn.cz. The Holiday Inn brand name is
known for its quality services and standards across the
globe, and the Prague version is no exception. Good rooms,
amentities and location at reasonable prices. Q251 rooms
(243 doubles €220 - 240, 8 suites €270). PHARUL
GBK hhhh
Hotel Neruda Praha 1, Nerudova 44, MMalostran-
ská, tel. 257 53 55 57 - 61, fax 257 53 14 92,
inf o@hotelneruda.cz, w w w.hotelneruda.cz. On e
of Prague’s first design hotels has proved so popular
that a second, adjacent building is being designed by
Bořek Šípek (Barbora Škorpilová did the original) to ac-
commodate guests. The 700 year old building nestled
beneath the bulwarks of the castle hold clean design,
fully equipped modern rooms with complimentar y cake
made in their divine café from a 100 year-old recipe.
The oasis of a roof top terrace is open to non-guests
too. Q PARB
Liberty E-4, Praha 1, 28. října 11, MMůstek, tel.
224 23 95 98, fax 224 23 76 94, info@hotelliberty.
cz, www.hotelliberty.cz. The Liberty is a lovely, under-
stated hotel with elegant furniture and textiles, plus all
mod cons for today’s travellers. Some suites are split-
level and views of the castle can be had. Q 32 rooms
(1 single €140 - 180, 19 doubles €150 - 210, 9 triples
€200 - 265, 3 suites €270 - 310). PARUFLG
BKD hhhh
Mövenpick Praha 5, Mozartova 261/1, MAnděl,
tel. 257 15 11 11, fax 257 15 31 31, hotel.prague@
moevenpick.com, www.movenpick-prague.com. The
hotel’s rooms are spacious and are decorated in a modern
style. Take the funicular up the hill to the restaurant and
function rooms with outstanding views of the city. Q442
rooms (4 singles €240, 410 doubles €280, 7 suites €445,
6 apartments €, 15 junior suites). PTHARUFL
GBKD hhhh
Modrá Růže E-3, Praha 1, Rytířská 16, MMůstek, tel.
224 40 41 00, fax 224 22 61 06, hotel@hotelmodraruze.
cz, www.hotelmodraruze.cz. The hotel is five labyrinthine
floors of spacious and stylish halls of rose emblem carpet or
new parquet. Rooms are similarly spacious and comfortable
with minibar and Wi-Fi. Luxury rooms are bigger and supply
fluffy robes, while the Presidential suit is massive with 2
plasma screens and a jacuzzi. Nice views, though maybe a
little noisy at the front. Q44 rooms (5 singles €115 - 250,
26 doubles €135 - 280, 12 delux doubles €230 - 320, 1
presidential suite €518 - 725). ABGHIKLP6W
hhhh
prague.inyourpocket.com
WHERE TO STAY 27
Sovereign I-4, Politických vězňů 16, MMuzeum,
tel. 242 45 45 45/242 45 45 65, fax 242 45 45 11,
sales@hotel-sovereign.cz, www.hotel-sovereign.cz.
Elegant yet homey with an excellent city-centre location,
this new four-star superior hotel should be popular. Fifty
spacious rooms and suites are all individually decorated
in a warm comforting style. The location is on the nicer,
quieter side of Wenceslas Square and comes complete
with all the usuals: in-room air conditioning, free Wi-Fi,
satelli te T V, mini-bar and safe. Q PJAFKW
hhhh
Mid-Range
Ankora I6, Praha 2, Kateřinská 42, MIP Pavlova,
tel. 224 24 28 63, fax 222 24 07 17, hotel@hote-
lankora.cz, w w w.hotelankora.cz. Modern, but with
Ar t Deco touch es mean you can have all your mod
cons with a bit of Prague at the Ankora. This 8 level
building boasts fabulous views from the top two floors;
but all the rooms have anti-allergen mattresses and
linens; mini-bar; satellite TV and a high-speed internet
connection. It’s an easy walk to Wenceslas Square and
you’ve got lots of tram and metro options practically
outside your front door. Q Prices star ting at 75 EUR/
single; 96 EUR/double. Includes breakfast, VAT and all
taxes. PHULK
Anna J-5, Praha 2, Budečská 17, MNám. Míru, tel. 222
51 31 11, fax 222 51 51 58, reception@hotelanna.cz,
www.hotelanna.cz. Part of the Small Charming group, and
the Anna is just that. A real gem, with first class services and
a homely atmosphere that caters to a thoughtful clientele
looking for something a little special. Q24 rooms (8 singles
€63 - 77, 10 doubles €83 - 103, 4 triples €110 - 130, 2 suites
€120 - 140). TARG hhh
Airport hotel
Courtyard Marriott Prague Airport Praha 6,
Aviatická 1092/8, tel. 236 07 71 40, fax 236 07
70 78, www.marriott.com/prgpa. Security dictates
no open windows so it’s all sealed but it’s all glass walls
with magnificent views and Zen garden by the fitness
centre with jasmine, lemon, orange and olive trees. The
comfy library, lobby and business area (with to pay Wi-Fi)
and Italian restaurant with open kitchen and as-required
bar are all open to the public and connected to the airport
via a covered walkway. Rooms are of the high Marriott
standard with plasma TVs with keyboard, to pay internet,
an ice machine on each floor and a fridge for you to stock.
A welcome change to the airport’s services. Q235
rooms (132 singles €85 - 125, 98 doubles €85 - 125, 5
suites €175 - 195). PTHARUFLGKXW
hhhh
Ramada Airport Hotel Prague Praha 6, K Letiště
25a, tel. 220 11 12 50, fax 220 11 12 56, reception@
ramada-airportprague.com, www.ramadainterna-
tional.com. The oldest and least appealing of the airport
hotels and less inclined for the international traveller - it is
adjacent to the domestic terminal and has no link other
than overpriced taxi to the international (north) terminal.
Rooms have safe, minibar, hair dryer etc. but are basic and
with showers only while apartments comprise a room with
small sofa bed and bathtub. Internet is not free but they
have TV keyboards. Q PHAR6UGKXW
April - May 2009
28 WHERE TO STAY
Ariston K-4, Praha 3, Seifertova 65, MHlavní nádraží,
tel. 222 78 25 17/222 78 11 87, fax 222 78 03 47,
ariston@europehotels.cz, www.hotelariston.cz. Rooms
at the Ariston are light and pastel coloured. Although it may
seem far from the centre, it’s just a couple of tram stops away.
Q61 rooms (4 singles €50 - 100, 44 doubles €70 - 133, 12
triples €90 - 140, 1 suite €93 - 187). Singles from 1050CZK;
Doubles from 1350CZK; Triples from 1700CZK including buffet
breakfast, city tax and VAT. HAUGK hhh
Atlantic I-3, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 9, MNám. Republiky, tel.
224 81 10 84, fax 224 81 23 78, info@hotel-atlantic.cz,
www.hotel-atlantic.cz. This hotel is on the site of a roadside
inn in the 17th century. The Atlantic remains on a busy road today
but with renovated interiors which are now sleek, chic and classy,
conference facilities and Fiesta, their self service restaurant, this
is excellent value for being so close to the Old Town. Q88 rooms
(9 singles €73 - 110, 52 doubles €97 - 129, 25 triples €112 - 158,
2 quads €141 - 187). HARULGK hhh
Best Western Hotel Páv H-5, Praha 1, Křemencova
13, MKarlovo náměstí, tel. 221 50 21 11, fax 221 50 22
23, reception@hotel-pav.cz, www.hotel-pav.cz. Prague
is blessed with another Small Charming Hotel, this time in
the New Town, where three buildings have been merged and
beautifully reconstructed to incorporate classical elements
with modern lines. And it is very minimalist: no prints on the
walls and muted wood and beige interior. All rooms have
twin beds, a safe, minibar, desk, TV and free Wi-Fi. Pets are
welcome and the lower double price is for single occupancy.
Q81 rooms (66 doubles €79 - 129, 15 triples €118 - 158).
PARUKW
Claris J-4, Praha 2, Slezská 26, MNám. Míru, tel. 242
44 61 11, fax 242 44 61 12, reception@hotel-claris.cz,
www.hotel-claris.cz. Set in the coveted Vinohrady district,
Claris offers two floors of light, spacious and affordable
rooms. It’s just minutes away from the nám. Miru trams and
metro station, or a 15-minute stroll into the centre, but you’ll
also find many good restaurant options in the immediate
neighbourhood. Q24 rooms (2 singles €66 - 79, 22 doubles
€86 - 106). PARLGK hhh
Evropa F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 25, MMůstek,
tel. 224 22 81 17, fax 224 22 45 44, info@evropahotel.
cz, www.evropahotel.cz. Amazing... from the outside. The
1905 Art Nouveau façade is the most beautiful on Václavské
náměstí, and the café is lovely. However, the rooms (including
the faux Louis 16th suites) are distinctively scruffy-looking,
some downright shabby furniture and creaky floors. The
cheaper rooms share facilities in the corridor. Q85 rooms
(13 singles €57 - 107, 41 doubles €92 - 142, 26 triples €110
- 178, 5 quads €240). AKL hh
Prague In Your Pocket
Hotel Anděl Praha 5, Radlická 40/857, MAnděl, tel.
251 17 13 10, fax 251 17 13 90, info@hotelandel.com,
www.hotelandel.cz. A homely, quiet hotel by the railway sta-
tion and opposite the Staropramen brewery. Fear not, double
glazing keeps the noise out of the sunny, well appointed rooms
although you should take a rear courtyard facing room if you
are a light sleeper. Minibar, hair dryer etc. are standard in their
not-so-standard rooms – this is a converted 1898 residential
building so all rooms are unique; the owner is an architect.
Staff are friendly and multilingual. Q31 rooms (31 singles
2000 - 3450Kč, 31 doubles 2700 - 4350Kč, 31 triples 3000 -
4950Kč, extra bed 300 - Kč). AGKLP6T hhh
Christie H4, Praha 1, Vladislavova 20, MNárodní třída,
tel. 246 09 17 00, fax 246 09 18 00, reservation@ho-
telchristie.cz, www.hotelchristie.cz. Nice sized hotel in a
good location; perfect if you can’t decide which area of town
to choose. With a 15 minute walk, or less, you can hit nearly
all the big sights. Newly renovated, the rooms are stylish and
well-stocked. Free Wi-Fi is available in room and common
areas.Q Single: 88EUR; Double: 114 EUR. Includes buffet
breakfast and VAT. JHA6UGKX
Ibis Praha City I-6, Praha 2, Kateřinská 36, MI. P.
Pavlova, tel. 222 86 57 77/222 86 58 41, fax 222 86 56
66, Resa-praha-re04@accor.com, www.ibishotel.com.
The Ibis provides a mid-range hotel experience, too clinical
to be upmarket and too well serviced for the lower end of the
spectrum as well. Functional rooms in a somewhat modern
style provide the necessities of life. Q181 rooms (181
doubles €79 - 107). PTARULGBK hhh
Ibis Praha Smíchov Praha 5, Plzeňská 14, MAnděl,
tel. 221 70 17 00, fax 221 70 18 00, resa-praha-re06@
accor.com, www.ibishotel.com. The third Ibis for Prague
gives their usual room rates and facilities in the ever-growing
and trendier by the day area around Anděl. Hard working staff
keep smiling and converse freely in a number of languages.
The lobby bar is busy, which is very uncommon in hotels. An
excellent choice for a comfortable stay across the river. Oh,
and your pets are welcome too. Q228 rooms (singles €64
- 84, 214 doubles €76 - 96, 12 triples €88 - 108, 2 suites
€154). PTHARULGK hhh
Kavalír Praha 5, Plzeňská 177, MAnděl, tel. 257 21 65
65, fax 257 21 00 85, kavalir@europehotels.cz, www.
hotel-kavalir.cz. A completely refurbished three star hotel
on the main street of Praha 5 with quick and easy access to
the city centre, the Kavalír has lovely rooms. Q50 rooms
(2 singles €46 - 80, 39 doubles €60 - 106, 9 triples €77 -
133). Singles from 950CZK; Doubles from 1250CZK; Triples
from 1550CZK. Includes buffet breakfast, city tax and VAT.
PALK hhh
prague.inyourpocket.com
Park Inn H-7, Praha 2, Svobodova 1, MVyšehrad,
tel. 225 99 52 25, fax 261 00 96 86, info.prague@
rezidorparkinn.com, w w w.prague.parkinn.com. A
large modern hotel in an Ar t Deco-ish building; Park Inn
is par t of the Radisson SAS group. Good choice for biz
people; they have conference facilities; meeting rooms
and 210 guest rooms. A fitness centre, large restau-
rant and indoor parking amp up the interest. Leisure
travellers and outdoor lovers will appreciate the prox-
imity to Vyšehrad castle and gardens. Q 70-300EUR.
PHA6FKW
Sax A-2, Praha 1, Jánský vršek 3, MMalostranská,
tel. 257 53 12 68, fax 257 53 41 01, hotel@sax.cz,
www.sax.cz. You won’t be surrounded by the crowds here.
This small operation is tucked behind the embassy quarter.
Functional rather than fine, but the staff is very friendly. Q22
rooms (2 singles €94 - 124, 17 doubles €117 - 147, 3 suites
€135 - 170). AGKPU hhh
Apartments
Amour Hotel Residence B-2, Praha 1, Malostranské
nám. 5, MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 55 78, fax 257
53 55 79, amour@europehotels.cz, www.europehotels.
cz. Historical charm and luxurious hospitality in the heart
of Malá Strana. Four buildings dating from 1404 host suites
with all mod cons including washing machines in some.
Wooden floors and furniture complement the original tim-
bers. Pets are welcome and all suites have sofa beds for
extra guest. Orchids and black and white photography reflect
the classical feel of this delightful residence. Q9 rooms (3
doubles 3100 - 6100Kč, 4 quads 3800 - 7200Kč, 2 apart-
ments 4500 - 8500Kč). Apartments start at 3800CZK,
includes city tax and VAT. Optional breakfast: 280CZK.
PTARGW
Apart Karee J-6, Praha 2, Londýnská 43, MI.P.
Pavlova/Nám. Míru, tel. 222 21 08 08, fax 222 21
08 09, karee@seznam.cz, www.karee.cz. A new, lovely
location in leafy Vinohrady, far from the staggering crowds
of Old Town, this reconstructed building has kept its old
world charm, vaulted ceilings and ancient staircase, and
added ten apartments which, while not luxurious, are well
equipped and comfortable. Same facilities in all apart-
ments, the only difference being castle views and Wi-Fi in
the Superior category, with friendly staff, café with terrace
and it’s all 10 minutes from Václavské náměstí. Q 10
rooms (10 apartments €80 - 240). ABGHKLW
hhh
Apartments in Prague A-2, Praha 1, Vlašská 8,
MMalostranská, tel. 608 22 89 99/251 51 25 02,
info@painfo.info, http://apartments-in-prague.org.
Choose from their 14 apartments scattered over convenient
locations around the Old Town, Wenceslas Square, Malá
Strana and Vinohrady. Antique and modern furniture fill the
central, 1-3 bedroom apartments which have full kitchens
and sofa beds for extra guests. Q14 rooms (14 apartments
€65 - 160). AR
Apartments OASIS City I-4, Wenceslas Square 36,
MMůstek, tel. 224 210 146, fax 224 247 198, info@
oasiscity.cz, www.oasiscity.cz. The top floors of the Marks
& Spencer building house spanking new basically furnished
apartments, several with balconies facing the sunset, and all
equipped with a kitchen, bathroom and washing machine. Fa-
cilities: gym, spinning, yoga, solarium, internet, SPA, children’s
corner and more. Q ( 1-8 person apartments €50 - 220).
THAUFLKDS
prague.inyourpocket.com
WHERE TO STAY 29
Appia Residences A-2, Praha 1, Šporkova 3,
MMalostranská, tel. 257 21 58 19, fax 257 21 53
29, appia@europehotels.cz, www.appia-apartments.
com. 22 sublime apar tments with 1-3 bedrooms for
long or short stays in a restored building around a quiet
courtyard. An original chapel pediment is visible in the
gables of one section of the hotel and its interior has been
converted into a gorgeous private events/meeting room.
Original stone floors and wooden beams complement the
sumptuous furnishings in the apartments, and once here,
you’ll probably never want to go home. Q (22 apartments
€132 - 264). Doubles start at 2900CZK, includes city tax
and VAT. Optional breakfast: 280CZK. PHARLG
BDW hhhh
Marriott Executive Apartments I-5, Praha 2, V
Tůních 9, MMuzeum, tel. 221 02 21 02, fax 221 022
103, www.marriott.com/prger. An excellent choice for
the corporate or business traveller; the fully furnished studio
or one-bedroom apartments provide a “home office” area
with two lines, high speed (wired) internet access and fully
equipped kitchen. Housekeeping is available, as is dinner
delivery from a number of nearby restaurants. A fitness area,
plunge pool, plus business and conceirge services round
out the amenities.Q53 apartments; ranging in price from
80-250 EUR. JAFC
Prague Classic Rental J-6, Praha 2, Záhřebská 37,
MNáměstí Míru, tel./fax 222 51 64 66, tel. 603 33 16
79, info@pragueclassicrental.cz, www.pragueclassic-
rental.cz. A variety of apartments in 3 excellent Vinohrady
buildings. Get a feel for city life with a 1 week or longer stay
in one of Prague Classic Rental’s fully furnished and modernly
decorated apartments. From studios up to 3-bedroom flats,
you’ll be well-catered to in your own personal space.Q
10,000-25,000CZK per week. A
Hostels
NEW
Arpacay Hostel Praha 5, Radlická 76, MAnděl, tel./
fax 251 55 22 97, prague@arpacayhostel.com, www.
arpacayhostel.com. Arpacay Hostel is a cosy and modern
hostel located in the fun, but not so touristy Praha 5 quarter
of Smíchov. Easy access by train or metro to the centre
makes Arpacay a good choice. Room options vary from two
person rooms to apartments with eight beds. Other ameni-
ties include a rooftop terrace; free luggage room; three fully
equipped kitchens and Wi-Fi in all the rooms.Q 250-650Kč,
includes breakfast. AW
Czech Inn K-6, Praha 10, Francouzská 76, MNám. Míru,
tel. 267 26 76 00, fax 267 26 76 01, info@czech-inn.cz,
www.czech-inn.com. The pun is excused due to the sheer
design beauty and comfort these people have afforded your
average backpacker. From some of the makers of Sir Toby’s
and Miss Sophie’s, Czech Inn is the future of backpacking,
we hope… the custom iron bedsteads and furniture, stylish
fixtures, famous shower heads, café and wow-split-level
apartments have already made the international press, even
the 10 bed dorm is spacious. All beds have lockable drawers.
Reservations necessary. Q33 rooms (12 doubles €50 - 57,
2 triples €58 - 65, 8 apartments €68 - 157, dorms €14 - 15).
AUGBK
www.inyourpocket.com
April - May 2009
30 WHERE TO STAY
Old Prague Hostel F-2, Praha 1, Benediktská 2,
MNám. Republiky, tel. 224 82 90 58, nfo@oldprague-
hostel.com, www.oldpraguehostel.com. Award-winning
hostel slap bang in the thick of Prague’s nightlife. All entrances
are key-coded for security, dorms (max. 8 beds) have lockers
and are fairly cramped, but hey, all you’re going to do is sleep
in there. Plus free internet, TV/DVD lounge, kitchen, breakfast
and linen, a 24 hour reception and very friendly staff - the
owner’s grandmother did all the artwork. Q From 10.90
EUR in a 10-bed dorm to 30 EU for a single. G
Prague Square Hostel E-3, Praha 1, Melantrichova
10, MMůstek, tel. 224 24 08 59, info@praguesquare-
hostel.com, www.praguesquarehostel.com. Full service
- friendly atmosphere is their slogan; and boy do they live up
to it. Included in the price is breakfast, free linens & towels,
internet &Wi-Fi, lockers and a luggage room. Checking out?
They’ll keep your bags for free. Newly reconstructed and in
a great part of town; definitely check it out.Q 10.90 EUR
per bed in 10-bed dorm up to 30 EUR for a single. Includes
taxes and breakfast. JGW
Pensions
Castle Steps A-1, Praha 1, Nerudova 7, MMalostran-
ská, tel. 257 53 19 41, fax 257 53 29 21, info@cast-
lesteps.com, www.castlesteps.com. This 400-year-old
building has expanded the number of suites, rooms and
apartments available and added some great technical
services for the businessmen or web addicted among us.
Discounts are available for long and winter stays and they
have toll free numbers from most European countries. Check
the website for details. Q37 rooms (17 doubles €34 - 64, 1
suite €60 - 92, 20 apartments €57 - 150). TR
Dům u velké boty C1, Praha 1, Vlašská 30, MMalostran-
ská, tel. 257 53 20 88, info@dumuvelkeboty.cz, www.
dumuvelkeboty.cz. Old-fashion charm fairly oozes At the
Prague In Your Pocket
Big Boot. You’ll find this cozy, family run hotel just at the
bottom of the Castle. The building has been around awhile;
but the owners have done a delightful job in mixing modern
technology with period furnishings. Q Doubles start at
2700CZK. TJ
Dahlia Inn I6, Praha 2 Lípová 20, MIP Pavlova, tel. 776
68 67 19, fax 222 51 76 91, booking@dahliainn.com,
www.dahliainn.com. Modern and cozy, Dahlia Inn is a small
pension, located on a quiet street in Praha 2. The rooms are
big, bright and airy and include safe deposit boxes, satellite
TV and wireless internet. One triple room is available, as
is an extra bed for any of the rooms. Friendly and helpful
staff, no charge. Q 8 rooms (Doubles 49-69EUR, Singles
39-59EUR). JAW
Mušketýr I-5, Praha 1, Mezibranská 13, MMuzeum,
tel./fax 296 22 00 00, office@musketyr.com, www.mus-
ketyr.com. An ancient wooden door and worn stone entrance
leads to a veritable labyrinth of rooms and apartments. Most
have been renovated, most are split level, all are comfortable
and sleek, and in addition staff are friendly and the garden
is lovely. Prices belie the location a stone’s throw from the
National Museum. For wonderful views, ask for room 4 or 16.
Excellent restaurant too. Q22 rooms (16 doubles €75 - 279,
6 triples €107 - 214). PA6LGBK hhh
Museum Pension I-5, Praha 1, Mezibranská 15,
MMuzeum, tel. 296 32 51 86, fax 296 32 51 88,
pension-museum@pension-museum.cz, www.pension-
museum.cz. This is as good as bed and breakfast gets. A
fantastic pension with a central location. The huge rooms
(this is a converted school) are set around a quiet courtyard
in a separate building far from the busy road out front. All are
spacious, with TV, large bathrooms, sofas and enormous
beds. Q12 rooms (singles €50 - 100, 5 doubles €65 - 115,
triples €80 - 140, quads €90 - 160, 7 suites €65 - 200).
ABGH6TU hhh
prague.inyourpocket.com
RESTAURANTS 31
Prague is aptly named the city of a hundred spires, but to
the gastronomically inclined it’s also known as the city of
a thousand restaurants. Prague’s cosmopolitan character
is reflected by her increasingly international and excellent
cuisine, although there are still plenty of tourist traps.
The the Old Town & New Town are the well-touristed
area between the Vltava river and busy Wilsonova road,
along in front of the National Museum.
Malá Strana and the area around the castle, just across
Charles Bridge, is a cleaner version of the Old Town, with
many upmarket and tourist restaurants.
City Café Cosmopolit
Loved by young expats, Vinohrady and neighbouring
Žižkov have everything from cheap ethnic restaurants to
first café for the Cosmopolitans
trendy bars.
North of the Old Town, Holešovice is a slightly scruffy
area, while up the hill to the east the more upmarket
Letna is centred around Letenské náměstí with some
interesting restaurants and bars.
Smíchov and its central area of Anděl south of Malá Strana,
is a long-disregarded industrial area which has taken leaps
and bounds towards becoming a very pleasant area indeed,
with countless restaurants catering to a young crowd.
Afghan Spálená 29, 110 00 Praha 1
Ariana F-2, Praha 1, Rámová 6, MNám. Republiky, tel. 222 tel. 222 540 064, M – 777 253 965
32 34 38, www.sweb.cz/kabulrest. Superb, especially if it e-mail: cafe@cafecosmopolit.cz www.cafecosmopolit.cz
happens to be the chilli chutney or a large plate of aubergines Open: Mon – Fri 08.00 – 24.00 Sat – Sun 11.00 – 24.00
swimming in butter and salt. Ariana’s Afghan is slightly spicy,
and uses a lot of tomatoes and yoghurt. The portions may be a
tad underweight but great Eastern cuisine, at better prices than wings. This is billed as a ‘lifestyle’ restaurant and serves deli-
most. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (150 - 250Kč). AT cious dishes with their distinctive brand of style. QOpen 11:00
- 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (150 - 300Kč). A
Kabul Karolina D-4, Praha 1, Karolíny Světlé 14,
MNárodní třída, tel. 224 23 54 52, www.kabulrestau- Angus Restaurant I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 10, MNám.
rant.cz. Unassuming in appearance, perhaps like the city Republiky, tel. 602 68 75 12, millennium@angus-farm.
it’s named after, it’s the food and the pleasant courtyard cz, www.angus-farm.cz. With a name like that; you can bet
seating at this Afghan restaurant that draws in the Czech and on steak, burgers and other menu items that formally moo’ed.
foreign crowds. The short menu lists among others kebabs, Choose from a New York strip or rumpsteak; an Angus burger
kofta (spicy meatballs) and ashak, a delicious dough pocket or an American classic. Good beef in a city where it’s hard to
stuffed with beef, leek, yoghurt and mint. Don’t forget to try find.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. 125kč-646kč.
the kadu yoghurt-pumpkin dessert before you leave. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PAB Buffalo Bill’s H-5, Praha 1, Vodičkova 9, MMůstek, tel.
224 94 86 24, www.buffalobill.cz. A clear example of how
American the West has won in Prague, BB’s is an American-style restau-
rant decorated like a saloon where the Duke or Clint Eastwood
Ambiente Living K-5, Praha 2, Mánesova 59, MNám. could meet for drinks. Although classic barbecued ribs and
Míru, tel. 222 72 78 51, www.ambi.cz. One of the Ambiente burgers are offered, Bill’s true speciality is Tex-Mex food in the
chain, and as eternally popular as the others, this place serves form of burritos, enchiladas and, the crowning achievement of
up fresh salad, great stuffed peppers, ribs and of course chicken its genre, chimichangas. Limitless soft drinks can be had, but
the glasses are so large you probably won’t dare have more
than one. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (150 - 300Kč). APT
Symbol key
Cowboys Steaks & Cocktails A-1, Praha 1, Nerudova
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted 40, MMalostranská, tel. 296 82 61 07, www.kampa-
group.com. Bazaar has morphed into the Kampa Group’s
E Live music S Take away sublime version of an American steakhouse. Premium-tequila-
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled laden cowgirls on the bar, quality and affordable cuts of steak,
seafood and even lobster (1,250Kč), complementary wine
G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking list, myriad salad and side offerings, cool bar, tunes and
O Casino M Nearest metro station atmosphere. A fabulous cellar space, classy design, exellent
cuisine and staff round out another Kampa success. The
B Outside seating I Fireplace primo cafe serves Illy coffee, Cream & Dream gelato and more.
R Internet W Wi-Fi 6 Animal friendly QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 03:00. (250 - 750Kč)
PAIEBW
prague.inyourpocket.com April - May 2009
32 RESTAURANTS
NEW
Hard Rock Cafe H-3, Praha 1, Malé náměstí 3,
MStaroměstská, tel. 224 22 95 29, www.hardrock.
com. Set to open in early April; you can already get your tee
at the Rock Shop. Look for the burger and beef scene to
approve. The cocktail prices may make you gasp; however
they are sold with a souvenir glass. The cafe is huge; 1900
square metres of iconic rock ‘n’ roll stuff. The highlight will
be the five metre crystal guitar suspended from the ceiling.
Rock on. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. 250 - 490Kč. A
Jáma D-4, Praha 1, V Jámě 7, MMůstek, tel. 224 22
23 83, www.jamapub.cz. Music and booze memorabilia
from the Ramones to Jack Daniels adorn the walls and
ceilings of this, one of Prague’s most popular expat des-
tinations. Big, juicy burgers, BLTs and Tex-Mex, as well as
cheap local specials, lunch deals and beer. Their Sunday
breakfast/brunch deals are large, tasty and have free
refills of coffee. Q Open 11:00 - 01:00. (100 - 250Kč).
TAGBW
U Malého Glena B-3, Praha 1, Karmelitská 23,
MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 17 17, www.malyglen.cz.
Renowned for the tiny though classy jazz joint downstairs, the
street level bar has entertaining barmen, free-flowing beer
and cocktails, and good food. Czech-Mex standards jostle
for space with salads, sandwiches and hot pitas, although
the menu has no breakfast dishes, except (Bohemia) bagels.
Kitchen closes at 24:00 and 01:00 at weekends. QOpen
09:00 - 02:00. (50 - 300Kc). PE
Vermeer Praha 2, U Vodárny 2, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel.
222 51 69 92, manager@vermeerrestaurant.cz, www.
vermeerrestaurant.cz. Breakfast, brunch and sandwiches.
Three tough things to find in Prague are now all available at
Prague In Your Pocket
the lovely Vermeer. The Ruebens are shockingly authentic;
the bacon cheeseburger should be one of the top three
burgers in town - and they do a decent chicken tikka masala.
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 -
17:00. 150-300kč.
Argentinean
El Gaucho E-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 11 (Ken-
velo Centre), MMůstek, tel. 222 21 05 68, www.
el-gaucho.cz. Once off the escalator, shake off the shop-
ping mall feel by attending to your carnivorous needs.
The mixed grill is hearty and with just the right hint of
charcoal to make it authentic. Q Open 11:30 - 24:00.
(500 - 900Kč). PAUE
La Boca I-3, Praha 1, Truhlářská 10, MNám. Re-
publiky, tel. 222 31 20 73, www.laboca.cz. La Boca,
junior to the Hotel Salvator next door, serves up large and
value-filled Argentinean dishes, making for a good option
when you fancy a touch of flair without making your wal-
let feel like you’re purchasing a ticket to Argentina. Within
the expected rustic décor and brightly muralled walls the
over-worked staff try their best and actually remain friendly.
QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. (150 - 350Kč).
AGPTU
La Casa Argentina F-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 35, MNám.
Republiky, tel. 222 31 15 12, www.argentinarestau-
rant.cz. A labyrinthine homage to comfort and cuisine with
added spice from tango dancers, a toucan and unique swing
seats at the cellar bar. Service is impeccable and the signa-
ture Pampas-raised Argentinean beef cooked to perfection
(asado) at the open grill (parrilla). With a non-smoking winter
garden, sports corridor with TVs and a wine cellar, this
luxurious new addition to Prague’s fine dining scene is set
to cruise forward. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. (200 - 750Kč).
AEGIP
Breakfast
Bohemia Bagel A-4, Praha 1, Masná 2, MNám.
Republiky, tel. 224 81 26 03, www.bohemiabagel.cz.
The original. Internet bar, child play room, and all the bagels
and other breakfast goodies your hungry belly craves. A
laundry list of sandwiches, grilled items, soups and des-
serts for the rest of the day. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sat,
Sun 08:00 - 24:00. Also at Dukelských Hrdinu 48/Šimáckova
21, Prague 7, tel. 220 80 65 41. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sat,
Sun 08:00 - 24:00.
Red Hot & Blues F-3, Jakubská 12, MNám. Re-
publiky, tel. 222 32 33 64. Daily breakfast for Brits
and Americans plus one of the best weekend brunches
in town. A distinct Czech-Mex flavour and some of the
hardest working staff around. Until 11:30 weekdays, 16:00
at the weekend. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (100 - 300Kc).
AEB
Brewery restaurants
Novoměstský pivovar I-5, Praha 1, Vodičkova 20,
MMůstek, tel. 222 23 24 48, www.npivovar.cz. A
340-seat restaurant, the New Town Brewery, not surpris-
ingly, serves its own brews. This could easily have become
a theme restaurant, because it can and does cater to large
parties, so come early or book ahead. Lots of smoked meat
and traditional dishes. Try the pork knuckle. QOpen 10:00 -
23:30, Sat 11:30 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (160 - 500Kč).
ABEGPTU
prague.inyourpocket.com
U Kalicha I-6, Praha 2, Na Bojišti 12, MI.P. Pavlova, tel.
296 18 96 00, www.ukalicha.cz. The pub that features
at the beginning of the Czech literary classic ‘The Good
Soldier Švejk’ as the planned location of the never-to-be
meeting “...at six in the evening after the war.” An oompah
band keeps the atmosphere rolling. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
(150 - 300Kč). PAEG
U Pinkasů E-4, Praha 1, Jungmannovo nám. 16,
MMůstek, tel. 221 11 11 50, www.upinkasu.cz. The
presence of locals is encouraging in this beer hall whose
not unimpressive claim to fame is that of being the first
pivnice in Prague to have Pilsner Urquell on draught. A
commemorative plaque and a tap mark the spot where
this country’s most renowned beer began to flow in 1843.
In today’s establishment you’ll find a courtyard terrace
and two floors of beer swilling and sausage eating. More
elegant no-smoking rooms are available for dining; the menu,
although traditional, is uninspired. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00.
(150 - 200Kč). AB
U Vodárny K-5, Praha 3, Korunní 75, MJiřího z
Poděbrad, tel. 222 52 25 40, www.restaurace-uvodarny.
cz. At the Water Tower is famous for another liquid: fresh
Gambrinus, Pilsner Urquell and Kozel from tanks rather than
barrels - pubs must consume a certain amount of beer to be
given this honour. It is also famous for excellent and cheap
home cooked traditional food and that superb habit of singing
rock n roll and country and western songs in Czech. Plus they
have an adjacent non-stop herna with saloon doors. QOpen
10:00 - 23:00. (40 - 200Kč). EB
Czech
Bílá vrána Praha 3, Jagellonská 10, MJiřího z Poděbrad,
tel. 737 07 00 05, www.bilavrana.com. Czech pubs are
moving from their working class roots and employing inven-
tive chefs to elevate the seemingly similar menus they host.
The White Raven is no exception with even lunch specials
inviting compliments. Excellent service and quality join some
English elements (yet to be tried Sunday roast and Beamish
in cans). QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (90 -
300Kč). BSW
Bredovský dvůr F-4, Praha 1, Politických vězňů 13,
MHlavní nádraží, tel. 224 21 54 28, www.bredovskyd-
vur.unas.cz. Another modern version of the Czech hospoda
tradition, Bredovský dvůr delivers cellar ambience dimly lit
by funky lights, a long iron bar, cool furniture and excellent
kitchen. An extremely popular lunchtime attracts the crowds
with the 75kč menu until 2pm. The menu mimics the funky
and old world fusion of the décor, with Czech dishes tweaked
by international additions, pasta dishes providing a tasty and
cheap alternative, and big screen enticing the sports fans.
Try buck steak, venison goulash, or stick to old favourites.
Additional seating around the open kitchen is available at
the rear. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (150
- 300Kč). PA
Budweiser Budvar Restaurant Praha 6, Aviatická
1092/8, tel. 224 24 25 77, www.restaurant-letiste.
cz. In the cold environs of the new shopping centre by
the airport Marriott this Budvar restaurant hardly entices
with character. The traditional Czech cuisine is good and
although prices are higher than in town, it’s worth grab-
bing a meal here before entering the vastly inflated prices
of the airport itself. The café next door has comfortable
seats but little else to attract other than there isn’t
anything better at the airport. Q Open 10:30 - 22:00.
(120 - 440Kč). PTA
prague.inyourpocket.com
RESTAURANTS 33
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Celnice I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 4, MNám. Republiky,
tel. 224 21 22 40, www.kolkovna.cz. An excellent,
upmarket restauran t owned by th e Pilsner brewer y
decorated with period photos and brewing equipment.
The menu includes all the Czech standards including
pork knuckle and rabbit, but Celnice also ser ves some
more imaginative and vegetarian options. Unfortunately,
the large space can get noisy when the downstairs bar
turns up the volume later in the evening. Q Open 11:00
- 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. (150 - 335Kč).
PAGB
Chudoba K-5, Praha 2, Vinohradská 67, MJiřího z
Poděbrad, tel. 222 25 06 24, w w w.restauracechu-
doba.cz. A restauran t wi th smooth vib es, good food
and drinking. Wi th various levels and alcoved tables in
t wo separate rooms, th ere is a feelin g of pri vacy and
calmness, added to by th e fish tanks and fireplace.
Th e menu is large and is in En glish too, wi th great
dish es available, such as pregnan t marge, kiss me
darlin g and sau téed stinker. Th e fondue is excellen t.
Q Op en 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. (65 -
230Kč). IB
Ferdinanda I-4, Corner of Opletalova & Politických
věznů, MMuzeum, tel. 222 24 43 02, www.ferdinanda.
cz. Two floors, two bars, two big screens, many tables, beer
kegs, weird furnishings, and excellent service bring Ferdinanda
to the hardly parched but very welcoming notice of Prague’s
beer lovers. The food is good too with a delicious gulaš and
more. Speedy lunch specials and breakfast menu add to
their staples. Pivovar Ferdinand produces the Sedm Kulí 13
degrees beer apparently named for the seven bullets that
killed Franz Ferdinand - the archduke, not the band. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (85 - 250Kč). GW
April - May 2009
34 RESTAURANTS
Folklore Garden Na Zlíchově 18, tel. 724 33 43 40,
info@folkloregarden.cz, www.folkloregarden.cz. If you’re
not one to sit still during a meal, then this is the restaurant for
you. At Folklore Garden, you’re fed large portions of traditional
Czech food and beer, and simultaneously entertained with
a two and one-half hour show with live music and folklore
dancing. Great fun if you’re in for a Czech traditional party;
active participation is welcomed. Folklore Garden is south of
Smíchov; tram N°12, 14 or 20 to Hlubočepy. QOpen 20:00 -
22:30. (560 - 10500Kč). PAEB
Koliba U Pastýřky J-7, Praha 4, Bělehradská 15,
MI.P. Pavlova, tel. 222 56 43 35, www.pastyrka.cz.
Chow down on superbly grilled meat sizzling all around you
to really get those taste buds salivating. The Shepherdess’s
Cottage caters to Czechs and tour groups (private salons
seat up to 80 people) with trestle type dining to the tune of
traditional dulcimer Gypsy music. The wooden cottage was
built as a representative Czechoslovak restaurant for the
1967 World Exhibition in Montreal and shipped over here to
continue the Czech dining pleasure. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00.
(90 - 300Kč). EB
Lví dvůr A-1, Praha 1, U Prašného mostu 6, MHradčanská,
tel. 224 37 23 61, www.lvidvur.cz. Loitering in a small
house at the northern entrance to the castle, the Lion’s
Court offers Czech cooking fit for royalty at princely prices.
The European wine selection is excellent and their kitchen
does amazing things to pork that we hadn’t dreamed possible.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (150 - 400Kč). ABP
Sovovy Mlýny B-3, Praha 1, U Sovových mlýnů 2,
MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 59 00, www.sovovymlyny.
com. The restaurant in the white mill building on Kampa Island
is especially recommended for its riverside terrace; its low
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and so close to the Vltava lock canal that you can almost clink
glasses with the partying tourists on the boats chugging to
and from the Vltava locks. The menu includes many decent
fish dishes but dont let that distract you from the views of the
weir and Charles Bridge. Bring something warm and mosquito
repellent.QOpen , Mon, Thu, Sun 10:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 22:00. Closed Tue, Wed. PAGB
Století C-4, Praha 1, Karolíny Světlé 21, MNárodní
třída, tel. 222 22 00 08, www.stoleti.cz. The food is
great value, the atmosphere lively and the service fantastic.
Even better, Století is one of the only restaurants that is
seriously attempting to progress Czech cuisine while keep-
ing it Czech at the same time. Plus, they are non-smoking
and offer take-away. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (150 - 300Kč).
PTAUIGBS
Švejk D-2, Praha 1, Široká 20, MStaroměstská, tel. 224
81 39 64, www.svejk.cz. Someone spent some money
(and not much by the look of it) to make a new restaurant look
old – basically what a beer hall would look like in the Czech
pavilion at the World Expo. That said, Švejk restaurants are
always good for traditional food like duck, pork and wild boar
served with dumplings, cabbage and a local beer. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00. (100 - 300Kč). A
U Červeného páva E-3, Praha 1, Kamzíkova 6,
MMůstek, tel. 224 23 31 68, www.ucervenehopava.
cz. Shyly hiding down a passage behind Staroměstské
náměstí is this small set of rooms and passages, great
for a quick, tasty and somewhat different lunch. It can be
refreshing to find filled baked potatoes or pancakes around
these parts, although this is still a very Czech bird, most
particularly in the evening. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. (250 -
300Kč). AG
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prague.inyourpocket.com
U Betlémské Kaple D-3, Praha 1, Betlémské nám.
2, MNárodní třída, tel. 222 22 16 39. A fantastic deal
amidst the elevated prices of the rest the Old Town area but
only if you can get a seat. Lunchtimes are elbow room only,
but Czechs are renowned for the quick lunches (hence the
fabulous deals) so you shouldn’t have to wait too long for a
table. Good beer (30Kč), good food, good people anytime
though. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (90 - 220Kč). A
U Maltézských rytířů B-2, Praha 1, Prokopská 10,
MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 00 75, www.umaltez-
skychrytiru.com. This historical restaurant called ‘At the
Maltese Cross’ is housed in a 14th century building called ‘at
the black horse’ where the entrance does not prepare you
for the maze of tiny rooms below. The international menu is
small but inspired with excellent Chateaubriand for two and
traditional Czech dishes. Fish and meat is predominantly
organic (bio) and the ambience is understated and secluded.
QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (300 - 600Kč). AI
U Modré růže E-4, Praha 1, Rytířská 16, MMůstek,
tel. 224 22 58 73, www.umodreruze.cz. The Blue Rose
serves refined Czech dishes in an antique setting to make you
feel like a lord or lady. The candle-lit 15th century brick cellar
is an ideal place for a romantic dinner with your sweetheart.
QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. (350 - 750Kč). AEGP
U Mušketýra I-5, Praha 1, Mezibranská 13, tel. 296 22
00 01, www.musketyr.com. A labyrinthine cellar space (it
can seat up to 200 diners) with eclectic furniture and good
service provides excellent, well-priced Czech and international
dishes. Svíčková and gulaš - topped with lashes of freshly
grated horseradish - particularly recommended. Krušovice
Mušketýr beer for 18Kč. Lovely... QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat
11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (95 - 390Kč). B
U Neklana H-7, Praha 2, Neklanova 30, MVyšehrad,
tel. 224 91 60 51. This neighbourhood restaurant/bar
(it has a juke box, pool table and big screen) has numerous
long-time fans, and once you go, you’ll be one too. Tucked
away in an uber-cool Cubist area, architecture fans receive
a double whammy. Menus in English and German do not
detract from the service or add to the prices of excellent
Czech and international staples accompanied by Budvar
beer. Recommended. Tram N° 7 to Albertov. QOpen 11:00
- 24:00. (80 - 200Kč).
U Petrské věže J-3, Praha 1, Petrská 12, MFlorenc, tel.
222 32 98 56, www.upetrskeveze.cz. Golden vaulted ceilings
reach over you as you pick at your high-class Czech vittals or sip on
that which you have selected from the gothic cellar. QOpen 12:00
- 24:00, Sat, Sun 18:00 - 01:00. (290 - 480Kč). AGP
U Provaznice E-3, Praha 1, Provaznická 3, MMůstek,
tel. 224 23 25 28. An unbelievable deal so close to tourist
central and the beer-drinking ethos is prime in this atmo-
spheric, busy and friendly spot. The food is good and large
- the various platters are an excellent introduction to Czech
cuisine, as long as you like meat. Hardworking waiters ensure
a never-ending supply of Gambrinus (25Kč) and for luck in love,
handle the eponymous ropemaker’s wife’s bust. No, really...
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (75 - 350Kč). B
U Zlaté konvice E-3, Praha 1, Staroměstské nám. 26,
MStaroměstské, tel. 224 22 52 93, www.ukonvice.cz.
Moderately priced traditional Czech dishes in a fabulous, many
roomed, authentically decorated cellar space served up by
a slew of avid waiters makes this a great Old Town getaway.
Use the steps descending from beside the Grand Café Praha’s
terrace as the entrance from Melantrichova is a tad stale.
prague.inyourpocket.com
RESTAURANTS 35
The copper vats hold Pilsner Urquell, and here any hope of a
cheap session goes up the chimney as a half litre is 80Kč.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (150 - 295Kč). A
Fast food
Fiesta I-3, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 9, MFlorenc, tel. 225 38
82 57, www.restaurace-fiesta.cz. The fiesta here is for the
unbelievable prices in this buffet-style restaurant attached to
the Atlantic hotel. The fresh and varied salad bar is a mere
20Kč per 100g, while tasty, ready-made meat dishes are a
healthy 30Kč. Fresh sandwiches, desserts and breakfast also
feature in this good and functional eatery. QOpen 07:00 -
10:00 & 11:00-15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (45 - 85Kč).
Chez Amis H-5, Praha 1, Spálená 15, MNárodní třída,
tel. 224 93 22 77. Fast food milieu with home cooked flavour
from this Turkish place that serves up cheap and delicious
gyro, felafel and lamb mains. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat
11:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.
Thai Spice Praha 3, Palác Flóra, Vinohradská 151,
MFlóra, tel. 222 74 20 38. The always busy fast food outlet
of Orange Moon. Watch the Thai guys cook up your noodle or
curry dishes in front of you. Chillies on the menu indicate the
heat quotient, which is as ever, less than we hope for, as is the
flavour unfortunately. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (65 - 120Kč).
French
Bastille B-4, Praha 1, Újezd 26/426, tel. 257 31 28 30,
www.labastille.cz. A laid back, not too shabby restaurant with
excellent food and atmosphere enough to keep diners lingering
for cocktails well after dessert. Although a French restaurant,
Bastille does produce pasta, Czech and Czech-Mex dishes too.
Lamb, pork, fish, mussels, frog’s legs all served with Gallic flair.
Budvar .4l for 40Kč. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. (90 - 380Kč). A
Brasserie La Provence E-3, Praha 1, Štupartská 9,
MNám. Republiky, tel. 296 82 61 55, www.kampagroup.
com. The people that brought you Kampa Park went to great
lengths to create a genuine brasserie in the heart of Prague. The
result is a ‘best of’ amalgam of several Parisian brasseries; a
stunning Belle Epoque room with large windows. Specialising in
delicious fresh seafood (anything from oysters to lobster), game
like rabbit in tarragon sauce and vegetarian onion quiche are also
available. The sommelier has selected several uncomplicated
wines (that can also be had by glass) that go wonderfully with the
food. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (130 - 600Kč). PA
Café de Paris Praha 1, Maltézské nám. 4, MMalostran-
ská, tel. 603 16 07 18, www.cafedeparis.cz. For a fresh,
authentic dining experience, you shouldn’t go wrong at Café
de Paris. A small, rotating menu of seasonal dishes means
you’ll always get the freshest of the fresh. The one constant is
their special Entrecote Café de Paris, prepared according to a
secret recipe. Yummy desserts, wine and cocktails, plus two
gardens - Café de Paris is a nice respite no matter the time of
day. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. 165-269kč. JGB
Flambée D-3, Praha 1, Husova 5, MNárodní třída, tel.
224 24 85 12, www.flambee.cz. Late Gothic vaulted
ceilings, a decadent décor, and unrivaled cuisine combine to
make this restaurant a haven for the rich and famous, a place
that no gourmet can resist. Chef Dušan Jakubec has taken
gastronomy to new heights with his sumptuous creations.
The foie gras and glazed rabbit leave you craving more, yet
indulgence is not complete without giving into the sensuality
of the vanilla creme brulée. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (750 -
1,780Kč). PTAEG
April - May 2009
36 RESTAURANTS
Francouzská restaurace F-3, Praha 1, Náměstí Re-
publiky 5, MNám. Republiky, tel. 222 00 27 70, www.
francouzskarestaurace.cz. Superb French (and some
Czech) gourmet dishes from this restaurant’s award winning
chefs. Mussels, rabbit, foie gras and duck all make delightful
appearances in one of the world’s masterpieces of art nou-
veau architecture (the Municipal House building itself) and
interior. Lunch specials and a concert package lower prices
somewhat, and try the Jazz Brunch on the first Sunday of
each month. Q Open 12:00 - 16:00 & 18:00 - 23:00. (600
- 2,000Kč). ABEPU
La Creperie J-1, Praha 7, Janovského 4, MVltavská,
tel. 220 87 80 40, www.lacreperie.cz. If you fancy a
culinary change of scene, try a taste of Brittany in the heart
of Holešovice. The galettes and crepes are paper-thin, and
although the fillings are not as plentiful as you’d like, it does
give you the excuse to try a couple of them. Vegetarians are
well catered for. They do some very reasonable wines, and
even Breton cider. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00.
(30 - 120Kč). P
Le Saint-Jacques F-3, Praha 1, Jakub ská 4,
MStaroměstská, tel. 222 32 26 85, www.saint-jacques.
cz. Tiny restaurant filled with pricey but imaginative French
fodder, excellent wine and live piano and violin every night,
which keeps the drunken bypassers wandering between the
voracious bars either side reasonably amused. Q Open
Mon-Fri 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 24:00; Sat 18:00 - 24:00;
Sun closed. (400 - 800Kč). AUIEG
Le Terroir D-3, Praha 1, Vejvodova 1, MNárodní třída,
tel. 222 22 02 60, www.leterroir.cz. Terroir is the French
term to describe the geology, climate, vinification process,
etc. of a vineyard that makes individual harvests into unique
wines. Wine is the forte of this sophisticated eatery. The menu
is just one page of superb choices, while the wine selection
runs over 500 bottles. Wines can range from 500Kč to the
price of a decent car. Lunch deals mean the hoi polloi can
also partake. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
(220 - 520Kč). PAB
Pálff y Palác B-1, Praha 1, Valdštejnská 14,
MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 05 22, www.palffy.cz.
The ambience of this 100% antique, turn-of-the-century
dining room is shabbily aristocratic, and the clientele seem
to feel the need to keep up appearances. It is, on the
other hand, the perfect place to ask for the hand of your
sweetheart. A favourite weekend brunch treat, the excellent
smoked salmon and spinach pancakes are only surpassed
by the stunning views of the castle gardens. QOpen 11:00
- 23:00. (400 - 900Kč). ABGPT
Sarah Bernhardt I-3, Praha 1, U Obecního domu 1,
MNám. Republiky, tel. 222 19 59 00, www.sarah-
bernhardt.cz. Hotel dining is reaching dizzy heights in Prague
and the art nouveau design of this restaurant is divinely
matched by Chef Jan Mošna’s inspired menues with set
meals for the undecided or choose from swordfish, turbot or
rabbit. Visit their famous jazz Sunday brunch (12:00 - 16:00,
890Kč). Live piano daily. Q Open 06:30 - 10:00 (10:30 Sat
& Sun), 12:00 - 16:00 & 18:00 - 23:00. (500 - 900Kč) (750 -
1,500Kč). PAEG
U Bílé krávy I-5, Praha 2, Rubešova 10, MI. P. Pavlova,
tel. 224 23 95 70, www.bilakrava.cz. The wooden beams
supporting old milk cans and dried vegetation and the white
and red checked table cloths lend an old-fashioned country
flavour to this impressive restaurant. Although such classic
French appetisers as frogs’ legs and escargot are served,
Prague In Your Pocket
the restaurant’s claim to fame, as one might surmise from
the illuminated bull’s head hanging outside, is Charolais
beef. Fantastic atmosphere, great service and even better
food make reservations essential most evenings. Print out a
10%discount card from the website. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. (125 - 600Kč). AP
U Malířů B-3, Praha 1, Maltézské nám. 11, MMalostran-
ská, tel. 257 53 00 00, www.umaliru.cz. This is one of
those restaurants that many acknowledge is a must-do in
Prague as it has the reputation of the best French cuisine
in the city. The pedigree is long, the restaurant was given
three stars by an otherwise difficult to please King Rudolf
II - in 1544, if you please. Go for the sumptuous décor and
the ambience of wealth. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. (1,200 -
2,000Kč). AGPT
U Závoje E-3, Praha 1, Havelská 25, MMůstek, tel.
226 00 61 20, www.uzavoje.cz. This classy house of
wine consists of a restaurant, café, wine bar, delicates-
sen and accessories shop. The French and international
menu is designed to complement the extensive wine list
and includes a two course daily menu to a six-course
gourmet menu. Individually priced dishes are available
too. Fabulously decadent, this is an outstanding rare
treat. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Café open 2:00 - 19:00.
(550 - 1,300Kč). A
Greek
Olympos K-4, Praha 3, Kubelíkova 9, MJiřího z
Poděbrad, tel. 222 72 22 39, www.tavernaolympos.
cz. Rightfully the most famous Greek restaurant in Prague.
Excellent Grecian starters, a haul of fresh seafood, and
friendly, hard working staff. Superb. And the garden here
is one of the best kept secrets in Prague and has a great
playground to keep the kids happy. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00.
(200 - 500Kč). TAB
Chinese
Fu Hao H-5, Praha 1, Křemencova 10, MNárodní třída,
tel. 721 87 35 37. Just look for the enormous Chinese vases
in the windows opposite Prague’s most celebrated beer hall,
U Fleků, to find this friendly restaurant decorated in the usual
faux Chinese fashion. Although the menu is on the simplistic
side, the dishes are delicious. Not surprisingly, given we’re
in the Czech Republic, the duck is excellent. QOpen 10:00
- 23:00. (60-100 Kč).
Hong Kong H-1, Praha 7, Letenské nám. 5,
MHradčanská, tel. 233 37 62 09, www.hkrest.50megs.
com. The service can be a little cold, but the fare, with liberal
helpings of excellent chutneys on every table, should more
than warm you up. Once you’ve been convinced of their
cuisine, you can wander next door to their Big Shop/Little
Shop to get the supplies to try to compete at home with
your own culinary efforts. QOpen 11:00 - 15:00 & 18:00-
23:00. Open 11:00-15:00, 18:00-23:00. (150 - 400Kč).
PTAUG
Huang He K-7, Praha 10, Vršovická 1, tel. 271 74 66
51, www.huanghe.cz. Chinese as good as it should be;
they spice the food up properly then warn Czech clients not
to order that dish. Enjoy the hot and sour soup, but everything
else on the menu is worth ordering, too. Tram N°6 from from
I.P. Pavlova to the Nádrazí Vršovice stop. Reservations recom-
mended. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Also in Prague 9, Kolbenova
1, tel. 283 89 05 18. (100 - 300Kč). AGP
prague.inyourpocket.com
Macao I-3, Praha 1, Truhlářská 3, MNám. Republiky,
tel. 222 31 60 93, www.macaorestaurant.cz. The staff
smile at you so broadly that you worry their heads may burst.
This attitude is consistent enough that you realise it’s sincere.
A well-priced menu is offered in the midst of the set for a Tom
Cruise film circa 1986; all white, and gold, and hard. Although
the dishes are all soft and sweet. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
(100 - 300Kč). PAU
Indian
Chanchala I-3, Praha 1, Náměstí Republiky 1,
MNáměstí Republiky, tel. 225 77 11 50, info@
chanchala.cz, www.chanchala.cz. Serving specialties
from southern India, Chinchala is a fun place to get your fill
of vindaloo, masala or papadums. They offer varying levels
of spiciness and the prices aren’t too bad either. Inside Pal-
ladium shopping centre on the second floor.QOpen 11:00
- 23:00. 90kč-225kč.
Malý Buddha Praha 1, Úvoz 46, MHradčanská, tel.
220 51 38 94, www.malybuddha.cz. Crammed with
enlightenment-seeking students from the nearby Ameri-
can College, Little Buddha opens its doors to those who
like calm, joss sticks and cleanliness of liver and lungs. A
range of utilitarian dishes from the east are presented at
charitable prices. The desserts were our favourite part,
apart, that is, from the sprint down to the pub afterwards
for a pint and a cigarette. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. Closed
Mon. (150 - 300Kč). G
Manni Mini Praha 3, Seifertova 11, MHlavní nádraží,
tel. 222 51 16 60. From the people who run several oriental
oriented late night markets comes this small, functional but
very tasty Indian place to fill the gap in the market. Curries
of every hue and origin (tandoori, biryani, Punjabi, dopiaza,
Madras, jalfrezi and vindaloo of course) come in vegetarian,
chicken, lamb and prawn variations with basmati rice and a
wide smile. Good not brilliant, but oh, what a price. Wine for
just 150Kč too. Oh, and they serve pizza too …? QOpen
11:00 - 22:00. (100 - 170Kč). N
Masala J-5, Praha 2, Mánesova 13, MMuzeum, tel.
722 90 76 66, www.masala.cz. Authentic (no beef)
and not (dried fruit in the samosas) at the same time, but
Masala has an owner who understands customer service
and therefore whatever quibbles you have with it today,
tomorrow they may be gone. The spice quotient is up to
you and the vindaloo was delicious without being nuclear.
With homemade ingredients and divine desserts; Masala is
looking like one of the best Indian options in town. Reserva-
tions recommended - it is very small. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00.
(100 - 250Kč). AS
CHANCHALA *bar *čoko-fontána *catering *jídlo s sebou *rozvoz jídel *párty na klíč *lekce vaření
INDIAN RESTAURANT
*domácí párty s kuchařem *čajovna *vodní dýmka *orientální hudba *keramika
PALLADIUM, Náměstí Republiky 1
2. (gurmánské) patro
Za vůní orientu do restaurace CHANCHALA ...
Ve stylové restauraci, nesoucí indické ženské jméno Chanchala, na Vás
dýchne pravá atmosféra orientální Indie. Ochutnejte tradiční
speciality severní a jižní Indie, připravené indickým šéfkuchařem
dle vlastních receptur.
Enjoy the Chanchala oriental atmosphere ...
Get spoiled by the oriental atmosphere! Have a seat and taste the
traditional south and north indian specialties made by indian chef of
his recipes.
prague.inyourpocket.com
RESTAURANTS 37
Rasoi E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 13, MStaroměstská, tel.
222 32 84 00, www.rasoi.cz. Yet another contender
jockeys for position in the ‘authentic’ and expensive Indian
restaurant scene. Expats like this food and expats have
money, so it seems the mantra goes. Above-average food is
served to you with a long glare down their noses. Q Open
11:30 - 15:00, 17:00 - 23:30; Sat, Sun 11:30 - 23:00. (250 -
400Kč). PAUGB
Taj Mahal I-5, Praha 2, Škrétova 10, MMuzeum, tel.
224 22 55 66, www.tajmahal.cz. It’s pricey, but the
Indian décor, the pleasant service and the separate halls
for smokers and the nicotine-free are all as worthy of the
price as the authentic dishes they serve. At Taj Mahal, if it
says spicy, then by Vishnu, it is spicy, and the same goes for
the milder curries. An excellent place, although they don’t
have draught beers, but they do have three Indian beers. If
your curry was a tad hot, cool down with a lassi. QOpen
11:30 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:30. (200 - 500Kč).
PTAUEG
Tandoor Praha 6, Konecchlumského 7, tel. 233 35 92
74/775 32 57 66, www.tandoor.cz. This restaurant is
known for being one of the more authentic Indian restaurants
in Prague with unbelievably-priced jalfrezi, korai, vindaloo and
the eponymous Tandoor variations. Dishes are tasty and
spicy but the place has just five tables and a small garden
so don’t try and bring the team… Tram Nºs 15, 22, 25 to U
Kaštanu. Delivery is available but slow. Q Open 11:00 -
23:00, Sat & Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (60 - 180Kč). GS
International
Allegro D-2, Praha 1, Veleslavínova 2a, MStaroměstská,
tel. 221 42 70 00, www.fourseasons.com. Prague’s first
Michelin Star rated restaurant. The quality of the Four Sea-
sons hotel chain is obvious in the classic, oak-panelled line
of Allegro’s interior as well as by the range of delicious Italian
and Bohemian specialties on offer. Their view of the Vlatava
and castle can’t be beaten, although their prices can. Often
named the best restaurant in Prague. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00,
Sun 11:30 - 15:00. (950 - 1,150Kč). PAUEG
Ambiente Pasta Fresca F-3, Praha 1, Celetná 11,
MNám. Republiky, tel. 224 23 02 44, www.ambi.cz.
This classic yet laid back Italian serves up delicous and not
over-priced culinary creations, and the service is superb. Try
the carpaccio con tartufi to begin and if you make it past the
long list of homemade pasta, the steak and salmon are both
expertly cooked. Chocolate fondue for dessert is a great finish
for a great meal in a great restaurant. Check out their excel-
lent lunch deals. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Café 10:00-24:00
(120 - 350Kč). PAG
Table reservation: +420 225 771 150
www.chanchala.cz, info@chanchala.cz
April - May 2009
38 RESTAURANTS
Food with a view
Il Giardino Praha 5, Mozartova 1 (Mövenpick Hotel),
MAnděl, tel. 257 15 42 62, www.movenpick-prague.
com. Il Giardino is a hotel restaurant with a little flair, cre-
ated mostly by the rooftop view over Prague, but also by
their varied Mediterranean menu. Q Open 05:30 - 10:30,
12:00 - 23:00. (400 - 1,000Kč). PTAUG
Petřínské Terasy A-4, Praha 1, Seminářská zahrada
13, tel. 257 32 06 88, www.petrinsketerasy.cz.
The restaurant with one of the best views of Prague sits
halfway up Petřín Hill and is furnished in a Slovak country
cottage kind of way. Cuisine is the somewhat traditional
international and Czech variety, and live dulcimer music
accompanies dinner. Take the funicular to the Nebozizek
stop to get here. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (160 - 280Kč).
AIEB
Zlatá Praha E-1, Praha 1, nám. Curieových 43/5
(InterContinental Hotel), MStaroměstská, tel. 296
63 09 14, http://www.zlatapraharestaurant.cz.
From this vantage point you’ll be able to see a fair share
of the city’s 100 spires. One the city’s most renowned
restaurants, Golden Prague offers a changing menu of in-
ternational and Czech nouvelle cuisine, business lunches
for the more budget conscious gourmet, and a Sunday
brunch accompanied by live jazz. QOpen 12:00 - 15:00
& 18:00-23:00. Open 12:00 - 15:00; 18:00 - 23:30. (500
- 800Kč). PAEGB
Zvonice I-4, Praha 1, Jindřišská věž, MNám. Repub-
liky, tel. 224 22 00 09, www.restaurantzvonice.cz.
If you’re looking for something different and don’t have
a fear of heights, then head to the top three floors of
this Gothic bell tower, complete with 15th century bell.
Zvonice is decorated with giant oak beams and serves
everything from snails, carpaccio, steak and fish to classic
Czech dishes. Don’t miss the view from the gallery up top.
Gorgeous and exceedingly posh. Lunch menu for 290Kč.
QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. (400 - 750Kč). A
Apropos D-3, Praha 1, Platnéřská 7, MStaroměstská,
tel. 222 31 45 73, www.restaurantapropos.cz. Make sure
you’re hungry on arrival after making the slog down from the
castle and across the river. The portions at this hunt-themed
place (boar skins, hunt frescoes, a big sizzling grill) are big
enough to sink a saint although you could always choose from
the vegetarian menu (which strangely includes grilled turkey,
shrimp and tuna). Beware the sneaky 10% tip that’s appar-
ently included if you speak foreign. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00.
(150-560Kč). PAE
Bellevue C-3, Praha 1, Smetanovo nábřeží 18, MNárod-
ní třída, tel. 222 22 14 43, www.pfd.cz. A fantastic setting,
looking out to Charles Bridge, the castle and the Vltava, and a
classic atmosphere sets the scene for you to feel dead posh
if you want and if you can afford it. Chef Petr Bures prepares
dishes like fillet of fallow deer with rose hip sauce, caramelised
pears, homemade spätzle and wild mushrooms. Try their jazz
brunch on Sundays. QOpen 12:00 - 15:00 & 17:30-23:00.
(1,000 - 2,000Kč). PTAUEGB
Brasserie Praha I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 8 (Marriott
Hotel), MNám. Republiky, tel. 222 88 12 12, www.
marriott.com. This subtle eponymous space is classy yet
laid back. Dishes from the open kitchen are simple, delicious
and classically international, heavy on the French. Top choices
Prague In Your Pocket
The freshest brew in town
include the lamb shank with creamed spinach and crushed
potatoes and the French onion soup. QOpen 06:30 - 11:00
& 12:00-23:00. (195 - 625Kč). AE
Cihelna Bar fly D-4, Praha 1, U Dobřenských 3,
MNárodní třída, tel. 222 22 21 41, www.barfly.cz. A
richly decorated and well-kept cellar of which you get a bird’s
eye view as you enter. The dishes are worthy of the prices
asked and reliable on the whole. Good service and attention
to detail are accompaniments to the good taste in evidence.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (95 - 210Kč). TAI
NEW
City Cafe Cosmopolit 4-H, Praha 1, Spálená 29, MNárodní
třída, tel. 222 54 00 64/777 25 39 65, cafe@cafecosmopolit.
cz, www.cafecomopolit.cz. A pleasant place to wile away some
hours; City Cafe Cosmopolit offers a kick-back lounge on the ground
floor with a stylish restaurant above. Cuisine is an eclectic mix of
continental, modern Czech and Asian. Of note is their big sushi selec-
tion and wine list; which consists of more than 50 bottles; all available
by the glass. Serves breakfast too. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat,
Sun 11:00 - 24:00. 115 - 350 Kč. TJA
Černý slon F-2, Praha 1, Týnská 1, MStaroměstská,
tel. 222 32 15 21, www.hotelcernyslon.cz. For a taste of
medieval living, dine below the vaulted ceilings of this small
restaurant in an ancient building across the narrow street
from Týn Church. Feast on wild boar, venison, and classic
European dishes or just opt for the Old Town plate consist-
ing of pork, roast duck, sausages, dumplings and cabbage.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (100 - 400Kč). ABP
Escape F-2, Praha 1, Týnská 12/633, MNám. Repub-
liky, tel. 224 82 90 43, www.restaurantescape.cz. A true
escape into delightful service, classy décor, an imaginative
menu and free gum at the end of your meal. Whatever you
choose it is artfully delivered complete with the name of your
chef, expertly cooked and deliciously flavoured. As we ate,
Edith Piaf regretted nothing and neither did we. Excellent
espresso and cakes too. A wonderful addition to affordable
Old Town dining although a no smoking section wouldn’t go
astray. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. (150 - 450Kč). JAB
Esprit Orangerie Praha 4, Na Pankráci 15/1684,
MVysehrad, tel. 296 89 50 30, www.holidayinn.cz.
Modern Czech and international cuisine served up in a lovely
designer space. Esprit Orangerie is a decidedly different hotel
restaurant, worthy of a visit even if you aren’t staying at the
Holiday Inn. Czech specialties like beef and duck are beauti-
fully presented; and their dessert chef obviously enjoys his
job.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. 340-590kč. PTHABS
Hergetova Cihelna C-2, Praha 1, Cihelná 2b, MMalostran-
ská, tel. 257 53 55 34, www.kampagroup.com. Part of the
Kampa Group of restaurants, this is a winner in every respect. A
huge menu of Czech and international favourites tantalises, with
great Neapolitan pizza’s thrown in for good measure. Sunday
brunch with professionals on hand to look after your kids while
you relax. We love it and you will too. Check out the upstairs
lounge complete with pool table and big screen. QOpen 11:30
- 01:00. (70 - 400Kč). PTAEGB
Hybernia I-3, Praha 1, Hybernská 7, MNám. Republiky, tel. Prague Marriott Hotel, V Celnici 8, Prague 1
224 22 60 04. To see the wait staff in action is like watching ballet
with the fast forward button jammed down - understandable when
you see the queue at lunchtime. Baked, boiled, fried and grilled
meat rules the realm here whether it be beef, pork, duck or other
poultry. Vegetarian dishes are also available but we suspect it’s
just an attempt to be politically correct. QOpen 09:30 - 23:30,
Sat, Sun 10:30 - 23:30. (100 - 250Kč). PTAEGB
20 styles of ILLY coffee
prague.inyourpocket.com
40 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 41

Nostitz B-3, Praha 1, Nosticova 2, MMalostranská,
The Czech Menu tel. 257 00 76 81, www.nostitz.cz. A lovely late baroque
summer palace built by the Jesuits in the 17th century
The Czech language is notoriously difficult for foreign is now a lovely restaurant with a gorgeous terrace along
tongues to get to grips with, not only for the unusual let- the Čertovka canal that creates Kampa Island. The usual
ters, but also because it is a heavily declined language. chicken, steak, pork and Czech classics menu has some
Your menu will hold various variations on the theme, but more international slants, such as shaslík. Private parties
with the following words as a basis, you should be able and weddings are catered for inside and/or outside where a
to figure out what’s in your mouth. grill adds to the garden party feel. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.
(100 - 300Kč). ALB
bez masa without meat
biftek beefsteak Nostress E-1, Praha 1, Dušní 10, MStaroměstská, tel.
brambor potato 222 31 70 07, www.nostress.cz. They’re not kidding. With
domácí home made comfortable designer furniture and steady ambient music,
dušené steamed stress is the last thing on your mind. Fusion and Asian cuisine
grilované grilled dominate the menu, but you shouldn’t pass up a chance to try
guláš goulash, the Czech staple one of the delicious Belgian desserts - the owner is Belgian.
Primitiv Pravěk I-5, Praha 2, Sokolská 60, MI.P.
Pavlova, tel. 224 94 19 38, www.pravek.cz. The fourth
of these prehistoric themed restaurants that serve slabs
of everything from ostrich to game, chicken to salmon, with
more than a little Yabba-dabba-doo. Give yourself up to total
immersion into all things Fred Flintstone from the faux rock,
mammoth tusk décor to the hunter-gatherer portions of meat,
with signature sauces and not many vegetables. QOpen
11:30 - 24:00, Mon, Sun 11:30 - 23:00. Also at Prague 2,
Nezamyslova 10, tel. 224 93 62 72; Prague 5, Na Bělidle 40,
tel. 257 32 69 08, Prague 7, Milady Horákové 52, tel. 233
31 08 84. (80 - 280Kč).
Suterén G-5, Praha 1, Masarykovo nábř. 26, MNárodí
třída, tel. 224 93 36 57, www.suteren.com. Featuring
such alcohol-flavoured dishes as salmon mojito - marinaded
with Caribbean rum and mint, pheasant on slivovice and

Lunch or Dinner
Highlights include dim sum and wontons as well as celebrity even lemon sorbet with vodka, this place is too intriguing to
hermelín brie, often pickled with garlic sightings (Joseph Fiennes, Maggie Smith and, er, Begbie). miss. The eclectic menu lists New Zealand mussels, Moscow
and eaten with beer Loud live music on Saturday evenings. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. caviar, escargot, carpaccio and pasta, plus Thai dishes. In
hovězí beef (250 - 600Kč). PAIE the cellar, modern furnishings complement the bare brick
hranolky
jehněčí
chips/french fries
lamb Obyčejný svět Praha 3, Korunní 96, MJiřího z
walls. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00. Closed
Sun. (150 - 320Kč). PA
at Art Nouveau Style?
jídelní lístek food menu Poděbrad, tel. 224 25 71 61, www.obycejnysvet.cz. A
jídlo food more mature international flavour permeates this hospoda, Svatá Klára Praha 7, U Trojského zámku 35, tel. 233
knedlíky dumplings which you actually enter on Chorvatské street. With various 54 01 73, www.svataklara.cz. For something completely
seating arrangements from high tables around the bar to different, descend 16m underground in this natural cave made
kuře chicken
secluded booths in the lower dining area, this so-called Or- into a wine cellar and restaurant. The rough stone is cheered
losos salmon dinary World provides a more than ordinary experience. The up with classical furniture and artworks, and the classy menu
na roštu roasted ribs are always a good bet, and while the con carne doesn’t features Czech game dishes such as pheasant breast with
nápojový lístek drinks menu earn the chilli moniker, the dish is flavourful and the sirloin forest herbs and sage. Join the likes of Brangelina and find Brasserie Sarah Bernhardt gently and with
niva blue cheese is tender. New Zealand lamb also features. Hoegaarden for Svatá Klára near Trojska castle, a short taxi ride from town.
oběd lunch 36Kč and Staro for 25Kč. The soundtrack could do with some QOpen 18:00 - 00:00. (300 - 1,440Kč). PAI attentive effortlessness ties French gourmet
řízek schnitzel revamping. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00, Sat 13:00 - 01:00, Sun cuisine and advanced Czech gastronomy
ovoce fruit 13:00 - 24:00. (90 - 286Kč). AB Techtle Mechtle J-5, Praha 2, Vinohradská 47, MJiřího in one outstanding experience.
z Poděbrad, tel. 222 25 01 43, www.techtle-mechtle.
palačinky crepe Pizzeria U Tučňáků Praha 5, Nádražní 19, MAnděl, cz. New restaurant and bar which has the elements to make Please let us invite you to a table and show
pečené baked tel. 257 31 66 50. Colourful yet sterile, but the food is it work: good Mediterranean menu and wine list - although how enjoyable dining with us might be!
pivní sýr beer cheese, hard and served with well prepared, large and well priced. The pizza oven keeps neither of these have been finalised yet, friendly staff, deep
paprika and onion, eaten with beer the place warm, although is more than pizza on their cellar to keep noise in and prying eyes out - well, it is called
plněné stuffed menu. Chicken steak with beautifully poached salmon and Hanky Panky after all… and plasma screens showing fashion
přílohy side dishes spinach is delicious and comes with a tasty cheese sauce. & MTV (DJs we hope will come soon). Large circular main bar
polévka soup The plate of chicken, roast broccoli and potatoes au gratin with a cosy cocktail bar deeper down. Check it out. QOpen
pstruh trout a huge meal for 139Kč. Beer is a tad expensive, but the 17:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. (140 - 450Kč).
cocktail list makes up for this. Everything is fresh and the
ryba fish
staff good. All in all a great place. The interesting looking U Emy Destinnové I6, Praha 2, Kateřínská 7, MKar- Café de Paris is famous meeting point in town
rýže rice music bar downstairs is open from 16:00 - 04:00. QOpen lovo nám., tel. 224 91 84 25, u-emydestinnove@seznam.
sekaná meatloaf; looks awful, tastes good whenever it’s business breakfast of friendly
11:00 - 23:00. (85 - 260Kč). cz. Built in the birthplace building of the opera star, U Emy
slanina bacon Destinnové is global cuisine at its very best. A cosy interior chat over coffee & delicious.
smažené fried NEW envelopes you and detracts nothing from the menu of steaks,
smažený sýr fried cheese, surprisingly good Pod křídlem noci D-4, Praha 1, Národní 10, MNárodní seafood and regional specialties. The scallops are a highlight,
snídaně breakfast třída, tel. 224 95 17 41, www.podkridlemnoci.cz. More of as is the grilled eggplant. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30, Sat 18:00
svíčková beef in cream sauce a dining experience than an eating one; Pod křídlem noci (under - 24:00. Closed Sun. 180-420kč.
the wing of night) is a concept restaurant in which you eat in total
sýr cheese darkness. Visually impaired staff takes care of you in the “world U Zlaté studně B-1, Praha 1, U Zlaté studně 4,
špíz grilled and skewered of darkness” section. Sitting you down, directing you to your food, MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 33 22, www.zlatastudna.
šunka ham explaining what things are and helping you back out again. There’s cz. U Zlaté studně is still making waves in Prague’s restaurant
těstoviny pasta also a “world of light” dining area for those who prefer a little less scene after a successful opening. Sitting high above the city
utopenec a.k.a. drowned man, mystery with their meal.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 19:00 thanks to its roof-top elevation, it still manages to snuggle
pickled sausage, eaten with beer - 23:00. 790kč, 3-course set menus, drinks not included. beneath the castle, and the classic architectural lines set
uzené smoked the scene for quality cuisine and vintage wines. QOpen
vařené boiled Pravda E-2, Praha 1, Pařížská 17, MStaroměstská, 07:00 - 23:00. (400 - 690Kč). PTAB
tel. 222 32 62 03. Not just the name of the old communist
večeře dinner
party mouthpiece (and a terrific Tom Stoppard play), but also Universal H-5, Praha 1, V Jirchářích 6, MNárodní třída, IN ART NOUVEAU ST YLE
vepřové pork a successful dining room, with huge windows for maximum tel. 224 93 44 16. Sitting colourfully, and maybe just a tad
vepřové koleno pork knee, pose street visibility, great high white walls and a very envi- smugly, on a corner in the maze of small streets to the south HOTEL PARIS *****
particularly carnivorous able mezzanine floor shaped like a box at the opera. The of Národní, this place is busy and robust. Both the food and U Obecního domu 1, 110 00 Prague 1, Czech Republic
vinný lístek wine menu vichysoisse 165Kč and a delicious tagliatelle with parma atmosphere are pleasing, but the service can leave you Phone: +420 222 195 195, fax: +420 224 225 475
zelenina vegetables ham 245Kč, are very good. Another Tommy Sjöö restaurant. wondering. QOpen 11:30 - 00:30, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 00:00, booking@hotel-paris.cz, www.hotel-paris.cz
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (250 - 600Kč). PAGB Sun 11:00 - 24:00. (150 - 300Kč). PA

Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com April - May 2009

42 RESTAURANTS
V Zátiší D-3, Praha 1, Liliová 1, MMůstek, tel. 222 22
11 55, www.vzatisi.cz. A restaurant and wine bar that is
possibly the best in Prague. Without being snooty, it man-
ages to serve fabulous and inventive meals to a middle-aged
crowd of foreigners and locals. Indeed, the best things about it
(apart from the delicious pear-gorgonzola salad, the chocolate
parfait with raspberries and the perfect latte) are the relaxed,
intimate atmosphere, and the waiters who enjoy their jobs and
know their wines. Not to be missed. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00;
17:30 - 23:00. (600 - 1,500Kč). PAUG
Villa Richter Restaurants C1, Praha 1, Staré zámecké
schody 6, MMalostranská, tel. 257 21 90 79, info@vil-
larichter.cz, www.villarichter.cz. This newly opened trio
of restaurants sits right below Prague Castle in the recently
restored St. Wenceslas’ Vineyards. The amazing view is the
main reason to go; the food is way overpriced for the quality.
Panorama Pergola is a good stopping spot for a glass of wine
or quick bite; small snacks like soups and sausage make up
the menu. Mid-range, price wise is Piano Terra. A huge terrace
and Baroque inside dining room support a menu of mainly
Czech game specialties. The cushiest venue is Piano Nobile
whose menu includes a variety of seafood and whose seats are
made up of large couches outside and a glass-covered interior.
QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Piano Nobile: 590-710kč, Piano Terra:
140-280kč, Panorama Pergola: 80-160kč. JAB
Vltava H-2, Praha 1, nám. Curieových 100,
MStaroměstská, tel. 234 61 41 00, www.hotelpresident.
cz. The appropriately named restaurant has panoramic views
of the river, a suitably designed interior and creative menu to
match. Steak with roasted shallots served with mashed potato,
monkfish, Tandoori and delicious desserts to match the good
wine list. QOpen 12:00 - 15:00 & 18:30-23:30. PTA
Wigwam G-5, Praha 5, Zborovská 54, MAnděl, tel. 257
311 707, www.cafebarwigwam.cz. Vaguely Aztec/Latino
décor but with an international menu leaning towards the Oriental
side of the globe and with no Mexican dishes at all. Excellent
burgers and crisp fries join pasta, salads, steak, duck and chicken
plus Thai curry and noodles dishes on their good menu. Sit in
the garden complete with guardian angel or inside in one of their
many rooms. Cool photography, one of the best waitresses yet
and well priced drinks, including Mezcal. Budvar 29Kč make this
a great find. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. (95 - 255Kč). B
Zahrada v Opeře I-5, Praha 1, Legerova 75, MMuze-
um, tel. 224 23 96 85, www.zahradavopere.cz. One of
the most stylish restaurants in Prague occupies the brutalist
former parliament building, which, by an ironic twist of fate,
also houses the well-guarded offices of Radio Free Europe.
Its inventive and often extravagantly presented dishes as
well as its proximity to the opera, ensure a loyal dinner crowd
each night.The multilingual staff doesn’t stop pampering until
the fat lady has sung. Now with a new South African inspired
menu and sushi on Thursdays. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00. (150
- 400Kč). AEPU
Italian
Amici Miei H3, Praha 1, Vězeňská 5, MStaroměstská,
tel. 224 81 66 88, ristorante@amicimiei.cz, www.am-
icimiei.cz. Welcome friends to this Italian oasis in Old Town.
Located in the heart of the city, but off the typical tourist path
means consistent quality food and excellent service. Seafood
lovers should swim in; fish is delivered fresh every other day.
The focus is on traditional Italian favorites and here you can’t
choose wrong. The linguini with crawfish or the ravioli with
artichokes both get high praise. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00.
350-850kč. JB
Prague In Your Pocket
Aromi K-5, Praha 2, Mánesova 78, MJiřího z Poděbrad,
tel. 222 71 32 22, www.aromi.cz. ‘Simplicity, tradition, pas-
sion’ is the Anatevka-like motto of this upmarket Vinohrady’s
Italian, but there’s no fiddling on the roof here. At Aromi there’s
a compact choice of excellent pasta, meat and fish dishes,
complemented by an equally good wine list. As a result, the
spacious L-shaped space holds happy locals and expats enjoy-
ing the moment. Reservations recommended. QOpen 12:00
- 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (95 - 395Kč). PAG
Cicala I-5, Praha 1, Žitná 43, MKarlovo nám., tel.
222 21 03 75, www.trattoria.cicala.cz. The entrance
is nondescript, but once down inside the cellar restaurant
all doubts fade away. This place is good - especially the
plates of steaming cozze (mussles). But there is more than
seafood; great pasta, super wines, service with charm,
smiles and patience, and photos showing the great and
the good dining here. QOpen 11:30 - 22:30. Closed Sun.
(120 - 250Kč). PA
Giovanni E-3, Praha 1, Kožná 11, MStaroměstská,
tel. 221 63 26 05. The bits of exposed rock, the walls and
vaulted ceiling of this cosy restaurant are a respectable faux
medieval. Luckily, the stars, vines and other painted flora
won’t distract you from the menu, which is so extensive that
we gave up halfway through it. If it’s Italian and you want
it, chances are Giovanni’s got it and it’s good. The Balkan
breakfast sounds appealing, but avoid the bruschetta at all
costs. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (100 - 350Kč). A
Kogo E-3, Praha 1, Havelská 27, MMůstek, tel. 224 21
45 43, www.kogo.cz. Kogo is one of the best restaurants
in Prague, for all number of reasons. Location, service, con-
sistent high quality food, and ambience. The atmosphere is
trendy and businesslike, full of movers and shakers enjoying
good pasta, seafood and one of the best wine lists in the city.
We love it. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00.
Also at F-3, Praha 1, Na příkopě 22 (Slovansky Dům). (120 -
250Kč). PTAUB
L’Angolo E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 7, MNáměstí Republiky,
tel. 224 82 93 55, www.langolo.cz. A relaxing, upscale
Italian “restaurant lounge” set in a spacious corner building
near to the Old Town square. Diners are lured in by the sight
of display cases with tasty-looking pasta and vegetable
dishes, and some deserts. Apart from well-prepared Italian
meat and fish dishes, L’Angolo also has a wood-fired pizza
oven adjacent to the cellar seating area. A sister restaurant
of the excellent Kogo, L’Angolo has the impeccable service
and great food that we expected. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.
PAB
La Rustica K-6, Praha 10, Donská 11, MNám. Míru, tel.
271 74 04 74. Homespun charm in this homely Italian with
homemade pasta. Garlic is a well-used ingredient, so dates
should taste each other’s dishes to spread the wealth, and
when you see plates piled high, you want to try everything the
waiter walks by with anyway. Large floor to ceiling windows
allow air and light to accompany your excellently priced and
expertly presented salads, pasta, steaks and even crocodile
(549Kč). Simple but tasty and cheap. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
(150 - 500Kč). AS
Magická zahrada Praha 4, Nuselská 114, tel. 261
21 42 52, www.magickazahrada.cz. The Magic Garden
is indeed a magical little place, offering a real slice of Little
Italy, with our personal highlight being the super selection of
(we counted no less than six) steaks. Recommended. Take
tram N°11 to the Michelská stop. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00,
Sun 11:30 - 23:00. (200 - 400Kč). ABP
prague.inyourpocket.com
Matylda Botel G-5, Praha 1, Rašínovo nábř. (Mánes),
MKarlovo Nám., tel. 724 80 01 00, www.botelmatylda.
cz. Italian cuisine and an excellent wine list (390 - 1,200Kč)
entice to this beautifully restored moored boat and then the
view only adds to the experience. Sit inside or out and even
stay in one of their rooms below deck. Breakfast, pasta
and main courses, with a healthy selection of fish. QOpen
11:00 - 23:30. (130 - 500Kč). PAB
NEW
Mirellie Praha 6, V.P. Čkalova 14, MDejvická, tel. 222
95 99 99, mirellie@mirellie.cz, www.mirellie.cz. Mirellie
offers an extensive menu served in elegant surroundings. The
interiors are smooth and classy; an excellent background for
their good-sized wine list. Make your first course a pasta one;
perhaps penne with fresh spinach and pesto. Move onto the
meat course; beef with garlic and rosemary or baked lamb with
truffle cream. Seafood and pizza also make the list. If you are in
this Prague 6 neighbourhood; make it around a meal time for a
visit to Mirellie. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. 125 - 395Kč. A
Osteria De Clara Praha 10, Mexická 7, tel. 271 72
65 48, daclara@seznam.cz. A not-so-good location on the
Vinohrady/Vršovice border is an unfortunate fact of this nice
Italian eatery. Small menu of basic hearty meals; stuffed zuc-
chini, rigatoni ragu, pork fillet. All are well-prepared and a relaxed
atmosphere makes this an excellent quiet spot. Let’s hope it
doesn’t stay too quiet. QOpen 11:30 - 15:00, 18:00 23:30,
Sat 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00-23:30. Closed Sun. 130-250Kč.
Roca J-5, Praha 2, Vinohradská 32, MNám. Míru, tel. 222
52 00 60. The best service we’ve ever had in Prague by far was
at this small neighbourhood trattoria; an enthusiastic girl who was
clearly enjoying her job - a rarity in this town. And then there’s the
food, which is exceptionally good for these price levels; no wonder
it’s booked full every night. Roca, run by Italians Roberta and Ca-
milla, is one of Vinohrady’s top places to head for a relaxed dinner.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (100 - 800Kč). A
Japanese & Korean
Hanabi Hibachi House J3, Praha 1, Petrská 11,
MFlorenc, tel. 224 32 46 34, www.ihanabi.cz. DIY
elegance at this new hidden Japanese joint. Lovely interiors
boast warm colors enlivened with bonsai and bamboo trees.
Choose shabu shabu or sukiyaki and a selection of fresh, raw
vegetables and meats will be brought to your table; which
conveniently has it’s own cooker. Prefer to watch someone
else sweat over the stove? Sit at the bar and order teppan-
yaki; literally grilled on an iron plate - and right in front of you.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. 460-1650kč. J
Hokkaido D-4, Praha 1, Národní 23, MNárodní třída, tel.
224 21 18 88. Simply decorated in bamboo, paper lamps and
knock-off samurai swords, this small sushi bar offers hot dishes
as well as sashimi and sushi for exorbitant prices considering the
quality. If nothing else, a small shop is also available which sells
a great selection of Asian spices, oils, beer and other cooking
supplies. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (250 - 350Kč). AS
Korea House I-5, Praha 2, Sokolská 52, MI. P. Pavlova,
tel. 224 26 62 46, www.koreahouse.cz. Paper lanterns
illuminate the yellow walls that feature manly Asian men wres-
tling, shouting and smoking. The colourful interior is as chaotic
as the menu which lists both Korean and Japanese speciali-
ties such as pibimbap and loads of sushi. A celebrity has left
a saucy slogan next to his picture in mysterious characters,
but it’s all Korean to us. The food is good, but the servings
could be bigger for all the cabbage one has to pay. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (300 - 500Kč). PTA
prague.inyourpocket.com
RESTAURANTS 43
Pocket Lint
Some useless facts to amaze your family and friends.
- In 1939, the country changed from driving on the left-
hand side of the road to driving on the right.
- The first ice stadium with an ice rink for ice hockey was
built on Prague’s Štvanice Island
- The average depth of the Vltava River is three to four
metres. The deepest point (nine metres) has been
measured under the Vyšehrad rock.
Man-na E-1, Praha 1, U Milosrdných 10, MStaroměstská,
tel. 222 32 01 01. A new Korean restaurant serving up spicy
kimchi, bulgogi (beef BBQ) and other Korean specialities such
as snails and octopus to stir fry and glazed pigs’ feet. If that
doesn’t tempt you, perhaps their 500Kč/hr karaoke room
might. Q Open 11:30 - 15:00, 18:00 - 23:00; 18:00 - 23:00
Sun. (200 - 350Kč). A
Mash Hana Badeniho 3, MHradčanská, tel. 224 32
40 34. Brand-spanking new sushi house right around the
corner from the Hradčanská metro station. Warm feel-
ings embrace you as you enter thanks to the welcoming
smiles and delicious smells. Sushi is lovingly displayed
amidst the coz y surroundings of wood, paper lanterns
and fans. Definitely check it out. Q Open 11:30 - 22:30.
Closed Sun.
Nagoya Praha 5, Stroupežnického 23, MAnděl, tel.
251 51 17 24, www.nagoya.cz. The first genuine Japa-
nese restaurant in Prague. Nagoya comes complete with its
authentic Japanese chef and food that has quickly become
very popular with Prague foodies and visitors alike. Sushi,
sashimi, tempura, noodles... all are here, and all are well done.
Thoroughly recommended. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00, 17:00 -
23:00. Closed Tue. (140 - 440Kč). AGP
Planet Sushi Praha 5, Nádražní 110, MAnděl, tel. 257
28 62 61. An oasis of Japanese calm among the urban
bustle of Anděl/Smíchov’s busy thoroughfare, although the
ambience is marred slightly by the proximity and shared
bathrooms of the adjacent TGI Friday. Attentive staff and
complete menu including yami rolls and desserts provide an
alternative to the Japanese restaurants already in the area.
Eat all you can on Sundays for 600Kč. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
(200 - 750Kč). PAG
Sushi Bar G-5, Praha 5, Zborovská 49, MAnděl, tel.
603 24 48 82, www.sushi.cz. The freshest fish for the
best sushi, this place does it - but for a price. Try the sushi
menu for a selection sampler - the three piece Temaki Sushi
set and nine piece Sashimi set was handsomely presented
and deliciously refreshing. Superb service and intimate set-
ting make this a continual favourite. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.
(250 - 500Kč). AP
Late eats
Akropolis K-4, Praha 3, Kubelíkova 27, MJiřího z
Poděbrad, tel. 296 33 09 90, www.palacakropolis.cz.
Join the hip, late night crowd at this cool spot next to the
Akropolis venue, where you can order great chicken wings,
delicous onion rings and other excellent choices until 00:30.
QOpen 11:30 - 01:00. (80 - 200Kč).
April - May 2009
44 RESTAURANTS
Celebrity Café J-5, Praha 2, Vinohradská 40, MNám.
Míru, tel. 222 51 13 43, www.celebritycafe.cz. Large
portions of steaks, tasty international dishes, Asian spe-
cials and Czech traditions abound, along with convivial
atmosphere and nook and cranny seating arrangement.
DJs play tunes and friendly staff keeps everyone well lubri-
cated. Kitchen closes at 00:30. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00,
Fri 08:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.
(100 - 250Kč). PAB
Kozička E-2, Praha 1, Kozí 1, MStaroměstská, tel.
224 81 83 08, www.kozicka.cz. A labyrinthine set of
rooms, where good food adds to the late night party vibe
and this is one of the kitchens that’ll feed us late into the
Prague night, until 01:45 in fact. QOpen 12:00 - 04:00,
Sat 18:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 03:00. (90 - 400Kč).
AKP
La Bodeguita del Medio D-2, Praha 1, Kaprova 5,
MStaroměstská, tel. 224 81 39 22, www.bodeguita.
cz. After a few mojitos and some samba, sample the Creole
cooking and seafood at this Cuban restaurant. Kitchen
closes at 24:00. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. (100 - 1,000Kč).
ABEIPU
Roma Praha 3, Jagellonská 16, MJiřího z Poděbrad,
tel. 222 71 41 54. 24 hour pizza restaurant with an Ameri-
can pool table (20Kč a game) and a herna. Staropramen is
25Kč and the Gambrinus is bottled only. Good home-made
Slivovice too. Q Open 24hrs. Also at I-5, I.P. Pavlova kiosk.
(85 - 150Kč). ABS
Sherlock’s Pub D-4, Praha 1, Bartolomějská 11,
MNárodní třída, tel. 226 21 19 39, www.sherlock-
spub.cz. A new Old Town pub for the masses although
Sherlock’s has some oddities (the music and choice
of TV stations), the kitchen is open till 03:00. QOpen
17:00 - 04:00. BK
U Malého Glena B-3, Praha 1, Karmelitská 23,
MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 17 17, www.malyglen.
cz. Good Czech-Mex standards jostle for space with
salads, sand wiches and hot pitas. Kitchen closes at
24:00 and 01:00 at weekends. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00.
(50 - 300Kc). E
U Sadu K-5, Praha 3, Škroupovo nám., MJiřího z
Poděbrad, tel. 222 72 70 72. A very Czech pub with cool ice
hockey game, pool downstairs, terrible toilets, spotty service,
amazing collection of objets, or trash depending on your state
of mind, and a pretty good kitchen. U Sadu is a local legend
for all the above plus their wonderful summer terrace and
the fact they serve beer till dawn and food till 04:00. Love it.
QOpen 10:00 - 06:00. (60 - 300Kč). NBK
Lebanese
El Emir Náměstí Republiky 1, MNáměstí Republiky,
tel. 225 771 886, www.palladiumpraha.cz. Not that
we’d usually recommend dining at a shopping centre, but
El Emir Lebanese restaurant is something to recommend.
The décor was well-thought out; including curtained parti-
tions to separate you from the throng of shoppers. All the
Lebanese favs are here plus a variety of grilled meats
and a decent selection of lamb and fish. Plus they have
really nice sandwiches; so it’s perfect for a lighter bite of
not-mall food. Inside the Palladium mall. QOpen , Mon,
Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00.
100-370kč.
Prague In Your Pocket
Safir Obchodní centrum Nový Smíchov, Praha 5,
Plzeňská 8, MAnděl. It’s true, Safir is in a mall and it is
self service, but for vine leaves, hummus, baba gannoush,
tabouleh, fatoush, falafel and gyros, you cannot complain with
the flavour or price. Hot meals such as grilled fish, chicken
in Mediterranean veggies etc. are daily specials and for the
real fast foodies, grab a sandwich. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
(45 - 200Kč). PTU
U Cedru Praha 6, Národní obrany 27, MDejvická, tel.
233 34 29 74. A long-timer with a popularity that is thor-
oughly justified. Well-presented, good value main dishes are
available, while adventurous types can put themselves in the
hands of the waiting staff who will make a selection of delica-
cies. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (200 - 450Kč). APU
Medieval
Cartouche E-2, Praha 1, Bílkova 14, MStaroměstská,
tel. 224 81 95 97, www.cartouche.cz. A dark dungeon
of delights awaits you, full of big and busty spit-roasted or
barbequed bones and live medieval music. Hale, hearty
and heavy - the food and the furniture. Enjoy, but go hungry.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (300 -
600Kč). AI
U Císařů Praha 1, Loretánská 5, tel. 220 51 84 84,
www.ucisaru.cz. Top-class medieval dining in the centre of
cobbled, old world Prague. A beautiful Gothic wine cellar is at
your disposal to really make you feel that your rightful place is
down the road at the castle. The chefs have catered various
state dinners, and the prices tend to illustrate this. QOpen
09:00 - 01:00. (250 - 950Kč). PAILEB
U Sádlů I-3, Praha 1, Klimentská 2, MNám. Republiky,
tel. 224 81 38 74, www.usadlu.cz. Gargantuan medieval
banqueting (with appropriate carnivorous leanings as well as
great fish) served by buxom Hell’s Angels in a cavernous re-
make of the set of Monty Python and the Holy Grail. Tankards
of ale slapped down in front of you until you scream ‘when!’ and
indulge your Ivanhoe fantasies. Book early or take a battering
ram. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. Also at J-5,
Praha 2, Balbínova 22. (150 - 300Kč). PAI
U Sedmi Švábů A-2, Praha 1, Jánský vršek 14,
MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 14 55, info@svabove.cz,
www.svabove.cz. Yet more medieval shenanigans in the
requisite cellar space where fire-eating, dueling and even
torture takes place as you dine. Traditional recipes employing
only authentic 15th and 16th century ingredients means no
tomatoes or potatoes. Fun, games and lots of meat. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00. (70 - 450Kč). AEGIP
Mexican & Tex-Mex
Amigos J-5, Praha 2, Anny Letenské 16, MNám. Míru,
tel. 222 25 05 94, www.amigos.cz. The menu is enor-
mous, amusing, and with some topless shots to keep you
turning the pages. The spice in the air and eyes bodes well
for chilli-ed authenticity. Chimichanga is as tasty as it’s fun to
say, steaks are large and tender, vegetarian options abound,
cocktails are cheap and delivery is available. What more do
you want? QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. (50 - 160Kč). ES
Azteca B-4, Praha 1, Říční 9, tel. 257 32 73 89, www.
azteca.cz. The menu offers the standard Mexican fare with
drinks in the same vein: mojitos and margaritas, in fact, the bar
does a fair business on its own, apart from the spicy food on
offer in the restaurant. Excellent, spicy nachos. Although we’re
not too sure about the OTT neo-Alamo décor, Azteca offers
prague.inyourpocket.com
good fajitas, enchiladas and quesadilla, along with over 25
types of tequila. Lunch menu 70Kč but there’s nothing Mexi-
can on it. Good wine list, Staropramen for 25Kč and Corona
70Kč. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (70 - 380Kč). A
Cantina A-4, Praha 1, Újezd 38, MMalostranská, tel.
257 31 71 73, www.restauracecantina.cz. A warm and
atmospheric Mexican, serving Texan-sized portions of decent
grub and small swimming pool sized margaritas that slip down
far too easily. The fajitas are excellent, although we suggest
you may want some extra salsa to add some zing. QOpen
11:30 - 24:00. (120 - 300Kč). AEB
Middle Eastern
Dahab E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 33, MNám. Republiky,
tel. 224 82 73 75, www.dahab.cz. Escape the Baroque
and step into this cool oasis of masterful mosaics, oriental
carpets and sweet tobacco smoke bubbling from water
pipes. Dishes run the gamut of Middle Eastern delights
and drinks are concocted from recipes gathered from
around the globe. Authenticity’s evil side is witnessed in
the squat toilet offered to horrified tourists (there are West-
ern alternatives). QOpen 14:00 - 01:00. (65 - 330Kč).
PTAEGS
Metropol Music Cafe I-3, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 12,
MFlorenc, tel. 775 322 895, metropol@PrahaEnter-
tainment.com, www.metropol-prague.com.. They bill
themselves as an Oriental restaurant - the menu boasts
a variety of yummy dishes like hummus, falafel, chicken
masala and beef fillet. We are very impressed with Chef
Sunny Passi - he’s got a way with flavors. The restaurant
is above a café and music club; but no loud music worries,
the restaurant is glass enclosed. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00.
110Kč-545Kč. JAE
Restaurant Babylon I-7, Pod Karlovem 12, MI. P.
Pavlova, tel. 222 56 10 21, www.restaurace-babylon.
cz. It’s Greek, it’s Italian, it’s steak, it’s fish. Babylon may be
trying to appeal to all people, and they actually are doing a
fairly good job of it. One of the newer restaurants in Vinohrady,
its out of the way location may prevent people from stumbling
onto it; but if you are staying/visiting around the Vinohrady
or Nusle area you should definitely stop by. Main meal dish
portions are very generous, salads a bit on the smaller size.
The Greek items are usually the best; however the quality
and presentation are quite high for everything we’ve seen.
Oh, and the staff is pleasant and accommodating. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. 120-370kč. PA
Pizza
Coloseum I-4, Praha 1, Ovocný trh 8, MMůstek, tel.
224 23 83 55, www.pizzacoloseum.cz. A pizza-maker
slaving away in front of the flames of a wood-burning oven
is the only spectacle you’ll witness at this coliseum. Sample
excellent pastas and pizzas made with real mozzarella in a
rustic setting. Try the Calabrese, it’s what Yanks call a pep-
peroni pie. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. Also at F-3, Vodičkova 32.
(100 - 200Kč). PAB
Giallo Rosa F-3, Praha 1, Jakubská 2, MNám. Re-
publiky, tel. 604 89 89 89. This small take-away place
decked out in football scarves serves the closest thing to
a New York-style pizza that we’ve seen in Prague. What’s
more amazing is that it also provides as much oregano and
spicy oil as you need, gratis. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Fri
11:30 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (From
25Kč/slice). AGS
prague.inyourpocket.com
RESTAURANTS 45
Pocket Crawl
A topical crawl of sorts around Prague:
Town halls are occasionally interesting if they are old and
architecturally historic; but more likely than not they are
dull places of civic business. Prague today has 22 admin-
istrative districts; but in days of old these districts were
considered “towns” each with their own town hall. There
are four of these “originals,” all leaning more towards the
appealing side of places to visit. This month’s crawl takes
you there. We’ll start with the “new” in Prague 2, head to
Old Town Square then across the river to Malá Strana and
end up at the castle. Not a bad walk for a sunny day.
1. New Town Hall: Karlovo náměstí 23, MKarlovo
náměstí
Prague New Town was an administrative district from
1348-1784; although it never gained the reputation of
its older counterpart. The most exciting thing to have
happened here was back at the beginning of the Hussite
movement; when a group of Hussites protested their
fellow citizens being held in the town hall jail. When the
councillors refused to release the prisoners; the protes-
tors stormed the building and threw the councillors out of
the windows onto poisoned lances and halberds. Crazy.
Things have calmed down since then and you can visit the
Gothic style building in relative safety. Also climb the 42
metre tower for a more westerly view of Prague.
2. Old Town Hall: Staroměstské náměstí 3,
M Staroměstská
Old is right; we can say Prague Old Town first existed in
1234. Historical nonsense continued until Charles IV
allowed the town hall to be occupied in 1350. The core
of the town hall is the old Gothic corner. This is where
the tower was built in 1338. The astronomical clock
was added in 1410 and the town continued to acquire
surrounding buildings. When visiting, be sure to note the
Renaissance window on the front façade. You can find
it inscribed with “Praga Caput Regni.” Disaster struck in
May 1945 when one wing of the complex was attacked
with tanks during World War II. The fire that resulted
destroyed many rare manuscripts, maps and engravings.
Obviously, the big draw here today is the Astronomical
Clock, but be sure to go inside to see what exhibit is
going on in the small museum. Also climb to the top for
an excellent view of Old Town Square
3. Lesser Quarter Town Hall: Malostranské náměstí
21, MMalostranská
This town hall is located in the beautiful Renaissance
building known as Malostranská Beseda. The town hall
itself was established by Přemysl Ottokar II, but ceased
to exist in 1784 when Josef II decided to unite the two
Prague’s. This actual building didn’t come into being
until 1478. The building itself was designed by Italian
Giovanni Mario Filippi. There’s a lot of construction in
the area right now.
4. Hradčany City Hall: Hradčanská street, tram 22
Rudolf II gave Hradčany its royal town status. You can
find this building next to the Town Hall Steps. Although
it has undergone a number of facelifts; its Renaissance
core remains. A huge fire in 1541 destroyed much of
the Lesser Quarter and Hradčany (including the Lesser
Quarter Town Hall) but Hradčany’s seat was spared.
The most beautiful part is the sgrafitto ‘letters” on
display outside.
April - May 2009
48 RESTAURANTS
Grosseto J-6, Praha 2, Francouzská 2, MNám. Míru,
tel. 224 25 27 78, www.grosseto.cz. Possibly the most
popular pizza and meatball spaghetti joint in Prague. You’ll
have to hang about at the bar and drink a beer before you
can settle down for the robust pizzas and other popularised
Italian comfort food such as frutti di mare, carpaccio con
parmigiano or spaghetti mafiosi. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00. Also
at Praha 6, Jugoslávských partyzánů 8 & Praha 4, Vyskočilova
2. (100 - 250Kč). AS
Gusto J-5, Praha 2, Vinohradská 83, MJiřího z
Poděbrad, tel. 222 21 13 16, www.gusto.cz. A long
empty primo location on Vinohradska has been brightly filled
by this massive pizza place, where the relatively high prices
are testament to the rent. Lunch specials don’t inspire, but
the pizzas are well topped. Pasta purports to be fresh… A
cool kids spot at the back will keep them entertained for
hours, and if you’re looking for a place to have a private
party, the cellar is the place. Nothing to write home about,
but popular nonetheless. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (90 -
380Kč). ST
Kmotra H-5, Praha 1, V Jirchářích 12, MNárodní třída,
tel. 224 93 41 00, www.kmotra.cz. The Godmother gath-
ers extensive broods around her ankles as she hands down
the old family recipe for making great pizzas from a wood-
burning oven. Expect to jostle for a place with the other waifs
and strays in need of the loving care that is meted out here.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Also at Praha 5, Jindřicha Plachty 27.
Open 11:00-24:00. (100 - 200Kč). PAS
Pizza Nuova Praha 1, Revoluční 1, MNám. Republiky,
tel. 221 80 33 08, www.ambi.cz. The Ambiente group turn
their talented hands to this eat all you can antipasti and/or
pizza & pasta restaurant. Well planned location adjacent to
the massive shopping centre, the Palladium, set to open late
2007. A huge restaurant with trestle type seating, Ambiente’s
trademark flair and an extensive Italian and Czech wine list.
QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. APT
Prague In Your Pocket
Seafood
Kampa Fish C-2, Praha 1, U lužického semináře 42,
MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 17 99, www.kampafish.
cz. The Kolkovna Group expand their gourmet industry with
Kampa Fish, which has nothing to do with another restaurant
group... Kampa Fish is so-called because it is a fish restaurant
in Kampa. The fabulous terrace enhances the dining experi-
ence which itself is enhanced by the wine list. A lunch menu
makes it approachable for the hoi polloi. QOpen 11:00 -
24:00. (150 - 800Kč). PTAB
Reykjavík D-3, Praha 1, Karlova 20, MStaroměstská,
tel. 222 22 12 18, www.reykjavik.cz. A plush, dark
wooden interior sets the scene for you to experience some
of the best seafood available in Prague. We can recommend
the ‘fruit of the sea’ soup or the tenderloin of tuna. QOpen
11:00 - 24:00. (250 - 600Kč). ABEPT
Rybí trh E-2, Praha 1, Týnský dvůr 5, MStaroměstská,
tel. 224 89 54 47, www.rybitrh.cz. Without a doubt, this
restaurant is a fish-lover’s paradise. With a choice from live or
freshly imported fish, one can swim through this menu with
delight knowing whatever is chosen will truly satisfy. Chef Pavel
Mares works his magic on the Caribbean Lobster, fresh from the
aquarium in any style. St. Jacob’s scallops is a speciality only
to be savoured, and the imperial mussels truly deserve their
name. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (190 - 890Kč). AG
Thai
Angel Praha 1, V kolkovně 7, MStaroměstská, tel. 773
22 24 22, info@angelrestaurant.cz, www.angelrestau-
rant.cz. A fab new Pan-Asian joint in Old Town. Flavors are
mainly Thai, Malaysia and Indonesian, with a touch of Japa-
nese thrown in for fun. Both food and service are excellent;
Chef Sophia Smith has been around a while and always cooks
up a good meal. Save room for dessert - the sticky toffee
pudding is tasty. QOpen 11.30 - 14.30, 18.30-22.00, Sun
11.30 - 15.00. 250-600kč.
Arzenal D-2, Praha 1, Valentinská 11, MStaroměstská,
tel. 224 81 40 99, www.arzenal.cz. This unusual and
quality mix of Thai restaurant and glass design shop hosts
a limited though excellent brunch/lunch buffet daily for just
170Kč. A special gourmet section of the menu is available
for those who do not mind shelling out a little more for
shellfish and other such luxuries. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
(150 - 600Kč). AP
Modrý zub F-4, Praha 1, Jindřišská 5, MMůstek, tel.
222 21 26 22, www.modryzub.com. The Blue Tooth looks
like an Ikea café until you notice the bowls of spicy noodles
and curry being served by cheerful waitresses and devoured
by happy punters. This noodle bar takes Thai fast food to a
higher level with delicious curries, made to order glass, rice
and yellow noodle dishes, sushi, maki, soups and salads.
Excellent service, lovely spot, NYC carton take out boxes. Oh,
and hot means hot. Blue is a theme: sister venues are similarly
cool Ultramarin and Blue Light. Q Open 09:00 - 23:00. Thu,
Fri & Sat 09:00 - 24:00. (60 - 180Kč). TS
NOI A4, Praha 1, Újezd 19, MMalostranská, tel. 257
31 14 11, info@noirestaurant.cz, www.noirestaurant.
cz. A serene Thai restaurant, and thank goodness for that.
Quality Thai food is often hard to find here, but NOI brings
authentic Thai chefs to prepare its tom yam koong, khao
pad koong and khao pad kai. Lovely staff and a Zen interior
complete the experience. QOpen 9am - midnight. 150-
290kč. PAGBXS
prague.inyourpocket.com
RESTAURANTS 49
Siam Orchid I-3, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 21, MNám. Republiky,
tel. 222 31 94 10, www.siamorchid.cz. Evocative aromas
entice to this hidden first floor restaurant. While the authentic-
ity of the place is not added to by the décor, the Thai massage
next door (600Kč/hr), Singha beer and mention of farangs on
the menu point to a real Thai dining experience. And the food
doesn’t disappoint. A true and delicious slice of Siam in a very
Czech courtyard. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (120 - 200Kč). B
Vegetarian
Beas F-2, Praha 1, Týnská 19, MStaroměstská, tel. 608
03 57 27, www.beas-dhaba.cz. Original Indian metal trays
hold your chosen veggie menu - small or large curry meal, µØħÿááØĞħ¹ħĵñÑØħйüèØħÿáħ
noodles, parantha menu, the massive thali and more. Des- ¨ØÑñĩØĞйüعüħġĉØÊñ¹ôñĩñØġ
serts and lassi are also available and tables have jugs of free
water to quench the small fires the somewhat spicy dishes
produce. Excellent and deservedly popular. QOpen 11:00 -
±¹ġĩØħØĶēIJñġñĩØħĵñüØġħħ
20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. (70 - 130Kč). PGBS ñüħ¹ħĉôعġ¹üĩħ¹ĩ÷ÿġĉïØĞØ
Clear Head (Lehká hlava) D-4, Praha 1, Boršov 2,
MNárodní třída, tel. 222 22 06 65, www.lehkahlava.cz.
Healthy and delicious, this veggie place doesn’t take itself too
seriously and despite the name, does serve alcohol. The open
kitchen produces ratatouille, pasta, salads, burritos and more,
with tofu (try it smoked) and eggplant high on the menu. Fresh
juices can be combined to detox while you sit and chill, eat and
chat in the cool décor of their three distinct rooms. Tricky to find,
down a small alley, but worth it. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30, Sat, Sun
12:00 - 23:30. Open 11:30 - 24:00. (80 - 150Kč). NG
Klub architektů D-4, Praha 1, Betlémské nám. 5a,
MNárodní třída, tel. 224 40 12 14. The enormous, wide-
ranging menu and wonderful location are reasons enough to
give this place a try, but the Escher-esque tangle of superflu-
ous copper piping and machinery, and the scary spiders that
make them their home, are the focal point of an evening in
this designer cavern. Comfort food at decent prices. QOpen
11:30 - 24:00. (150 - 300Kč). ABG
Veg Food Praha 2, Londýnská 35, MIP Pavlova, tel.
222 51 50 06/721 25 52 53, info@vegfood.cz, www.
vegfood.cz. A new and welcome non-meat addition to the
pork-heavy dining scene. Veg Food is fairly Asian, with many
soy and tofu meat alternatives. The flavors are mild, but you
will taste them; vegetables are fresh and the staff is welcom-
ing. Seek it out, even carnivores will be pleased. QOpen
10:30 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:30 - 21:30.
Wine bars
Bandol F-2, Praha 1, Týnská 1, MStaroměstská, tel. 222
32 15 21, www.hotelcernyslon.cz. Located in the quaint brick
cellar of a medieval building across the narrow street from Týn
Church, Bandol offers a good selection of local and European
wines as well as a full menu of international dishes from the
restaurant on the ground floor. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. AE
Bokovka H-5, Praha 1, Pštrossova 8, tel. 605 22 86 68.
Czech and international wines in the heart of Prague opened by film
directors Jan Hřebejk (Pupendo, Horem pádem) & David Ondřiček
(Samotári). Large wine list and there is no smoking to mess with the ¯ØġØĞĴ¹ĩñÿüħ¹üÑħʹĩØĞñüèÍ
taste buds.QOpen 16.00 - 01.00, Fri, Sat 16.00 - 03.00. G đæİĺħİİİħýãýħýýý
Monarch D-4, Praha 1, Na Perštýně, MNárodní třída, tel.
224 23 96 02, www.monarch.cz. Wine bar and shop featuring ´Ď­Ďħ(ó¹ôÿĴ¹ħĂæĦãĺİÎħ­Ğ¹èIJØħĥ
classic and novice wine from all over the world. Settle into its warm ÷ñĞØôôñØ¿÷ñĞØôôñØĎÊĹ
wooden interior and don’t worry about the rather ripe smell, it’s
the cheese. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at I-5,
ĵĵĵĎ÷ñĞØôôñØĎÊĹ
Václavské nám. 64, tel. 222 21 03 82, open 11:00 - 23:00.
prague.inyourpocket.com April - May 2009
50 CAFÉS
Prague is no café society. Certainly the latent potential
is there, what with the city’s literary reputation and arty
bohemian image. However, you’re never going to convince
the majority to lounge around sipping an espresso when it
costs less to drown in beer.
Au Gourmand E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 10, MStaroměstská,
tel. 222 32 90 60. Small cafe with superior pastries, savou-
ries and tortes plus many more items to slimline your wallet
and expand your waistline, but, as Kenny Everett said, it is
done “in the best possible taste.” Despite Prague’s growing
café culture, baked items have always remained below par
considering historical links and geographical proximity to
Vienna and Au Gourmand makes a lovely change. QOpen
08:00 - 19:00, Sat 8:30 - 19:00, Sun 9:00 - 19:00. Also at Au
Gourmand Rive Gauche, C-2, Praha 1, U lužického semináře
23, tel. 257 53 24 34.
Bresto Prague 1, Štěpánská 31, MMůstek, tel. 222
21 28 10. New teeny tiny cafe and wine bar. Early hours
make it nice for a pastry and coffee, stop by at lunch for one
of their freshly made sandwiches and in the evening choose
from their extensive wine selection. And what welcoming
staff we have! QOpen 7:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 8:00 - 22:00.
(50-200kč). J
Café Amsterdam I-4, Praha 1, Washingtonova 9,
MMuzeum, tel. 222 22 01 85, www.cafeamsterdam.
cz. An Amsterdam café that has clogs, bicycles and other
things Dutch except what everyone assumes will be in a
café called Amsterdam… you can smoke, but not anything
wacky. Clean lines, newspapers, cakes, snacks, sand-
wiches, full bar and a good variety of breakfasts draw the
business and tourist crowd in this increasingly gentrified
area near the railway station. QOpen , Mon, Tue, Wed,
Thu 10:00 - 23:00, Fri 10:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00.
Closed Sun.
Café Café E-4, Praha 1, Rytířská 10, MMůstek, tel.
224 21 05 97, www.cafe-cafe.cz. Slap bang in the
middle of tourist central, but far cooler than many cafés
in the area. Café Café is a well-known gay hangout, but it
also attracts hetero hipsters who look the look, talk the
talk and wear the ware. Coffee, cocktails, large salads and
the Mediterranean menu provide lubrication and suste-
nance. Breakfast served everyday until 12:30. QOpen
9:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.
(150 - 350Kč). AB
Café Imperial I-3, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 15, MNám. Repub-
liky, tel. 246 01 14 40. After a long facelift, the landmark
Imperial has reopened with the Art Nouveau tiles and wood
carvings still in situ within the high ceiling-ed rooms. The
stale donuts have sadly not reappeared but the beautiful and
historic space is well worth visiting for breakfast, a sandwich
or meal (chef Zdeněk Pohlreich hails from the Radisson SAS
Alcron and Marriott), although reviews have been hit and
miss. A decent cocktail list will keep you here late. QOpen
07:00 - 23:00. (130 - 400Kč). PA
Café Jungmann E-4, Jungmannovo nám. 7, Prague
1, MMůstek, tel. 222 22 01 61, www.cafejungmann.
cz. A dark pub has been transformed into this Ikea-styled
café well-located to attract tired shoppers and tourists from
Wenceslas Sq. Neutral tones and MTV beats on the plasma
screens join sandwiches, salads, crepes and a few steak/
fish mains in their tasty menu. Soups are delicious if tepid
and the daily special is excellent value. New world wines at-
tract the interest when .3 of Pilsner Urquell is 50Kč. QOpen
08:00 - 23:00. (80 - 250Kč). AW
Prague In Your Pocket
Café Louvre D-4, Praha 1, Národní 22, MNárodní třída,
tel. 224 93 09 49, www.cafelouvre.cz. In true French style,
this historic café is for anything but bourgeois tastes. Café Lou-
vre is a true slice of Czech life where a great breakfast is served
that one can enjoy with an international newspaper. Whether
you want to play a game of pool in the swank billiard hall or
indulge in some fresh pastries over coffee, this is the perfect
place to have a great café experience. QOpen 08:00 - 23:30,
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:30. (100 - 500Kč). PTAG
Café Pavlač K-4, Praha 3, Víta nejedlého 23, tel. 222
72 17 31, www.cafepavlac.cz. Healthy eating comes to
Žižkov? Café Pavlač, named for the courtyard gallery out the
back, which staff and artist are happy for you to explore,
serves up good breakfast, snacks and meals, including pasta
and salmon steak. Tasty eats, Czech and English reading
matter, tunes and friendly staff ensure it remains quietly busy
all day. Nights can happen too, with a full bar and Gambrinus
at 22Kč. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun
12:00 - 23:00. (55 - 180Kč). B
Café Savoy G-5, Praha 5, Vítězná 5, MAnděl, tel. 257
31 15 62, www.ambi.cz. A fabulously restored grand
café dating back to 1893 with a particularly stunning neo-
Renaissance ceiling. Sit under the chandeliers to order food
from the café menu with traditional Czech dishes or from the
more elaborate French gourmet menu. Don’t skip the pastries
and cakes that are made on the premises though. Great for a
lazy breakfast with a newspaper too. QOpen 08:00 - 22:30,
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:30. (140 - 300Kč). AP
Cigars and Coffee I-4, Praha 1, Vodíčkova 39,
MMůstek, tel. 224 94 91 33, www.coffeeandcigars.
cz. Orange theme, white leather, Očko on TVs, cinematic
images of the eponymous objects (and others beginning
with a C) line this ubercool café near Cinema Světozor. The
expanse of glass leads to perfect people watching, but the
media types inside don’t want to do the watching. Breakfast,
cakes, baguettes, salads, pasta and even steaks are small
and tasty but slightly overpriced (100 - 240Kč). But if you
want cool, you’ve got to be wiling to pay for it. QOpen
08:00 - 24:00. W
C o ff e e Fe l l o w s E - 2 , P r a h a 1 , D l o u h á 2 0 ,
MStaroměstská, tel. 222 31 02 00, www.coffee-
fellows.cz. Famous for their pastries, tea, coffee and syrups.
Sandwiches, bagels, cookies etc. all vie for your attention but
try the caramel slice for a taste of heaven with some toffee
mixed in. Seating is high and low, the few armchairs have
their backs to the room and the banquette seating proves a
tad uncomfortable. There is little privacy too, but it is tasty.
QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. PABW
Coffeeheaven E-1, Praha 1, Pařížská 1, MStaroměstská,
tel. 222 31 19 67, www.coffeeheaven.cz. While Starbucks
is snoozing in Seattle, a cunning Polish franchise outfit has
sneaked a large number albeit somewhat faceless cafés into
Prague. The coffee comes in paper cups and ranges from
32Kč for an espresso to 84Kc for the large white chocolate
mocha. The sandwiches, panini and cakes are tasty and
reasonably priced, and there’s a 120Kč breakfast offer.
QOpen 08:30 - 21:00. Also at E-4, Praha 1, Na příkopě 3,
Palác Flóra & I-4, pasáž Rokoko, Praha 1, Václavské nám., tel.
224 2 4 70 61. PAGS
Cukrkávalimonáda B-2, Praha 1, Lázeňská 7, tel. 257
53 06 28, www.cukrkavalimonada.cz. A small café which
adopts an evening menu at 18:00 and produces delicious
meals such as chicken breast with prosciutto and mozzarella
on balsamic vinegar and fresh baby spinach to go with some
prague.inyourpocket.com
superb (but spendy) new world wines. Daytime offerings are
just as tasty from the breakfast menu to pancakes, sand-
wiches and homemade pasta. As relaxed as the beautifully
tranquil square it is located on. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
Closed Sun. (80 - 350Kč). PG
DISK Café D-3, Praha 1, Karlova 26, MStaroměstská,
tel. 221 11 10 65. A superior café on the Royal Way belies its
sleek design by actually being the café for the DISK Theatre,
the place of study for the Czech Academy of Performing Arts
(DAMU). Join wannabe thesps, stage hands and directors
for well-priced (especially when you consider the location)
sandwiches, salads and calorie-laden but superb desserts.
A full bar is of course available too - Staropramen is 40Kč.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (85 - 115Kč).
Ebel E-3, Praha 1, Týn 2, MNám. Republiky, tel. 224
89 57 88, www.ebelcoffee.cz. Some of the best coffee in
town, sandwiches and salads, plus excellent smoothies and
cheesecake to die for. Wooden warmth inside beckons you in
the winter months, and in the evenings you’ll be serenaded by
some good jazz from Ungelt in the basement. Beware of wan-
dering stag parties from Legends across the square. Check
out their shop almost next door. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.
(60 - 160Kč). Also at D-2, Karprová 11, open 08:00 - 19:00;
D-3, Řetězová 9, open 08:00 - 20:00. TAB
NEW
Espressamente Illy I-3, V Celnici 8, MNáměstí Repub-
liky, tel. 222 88 12 58, www.marriottprague.com. Open
for breakfast or lunch; the new Espressamente Illy promises
authentic Italian Espresso and cappuccino. Located in the
Prague Marriott Hotel, it has a street entrance on V Celnici.
Offering 20 kinds of Illy coffee for your morning meetings,
plus pastries and light snacks; it’s a quiet place in a busy
neighbourhood.
prague.inyourpocket.com
CAFÉS 51
Face Cafe F-2, Náměstí Republiky 1, MNáměstí Repub-
liky. The place to show your face. Quite an upscale café for a
mall, but with a coffee, wine and cocktail list as long as theirs,
it’s a worthwhile trip. They’ve taken the theme seriously; the
menu is framed and the walls are covered with head shots.
Sit inside along the window and stare at the faces shopping
below. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.
Globe H-5, Praha 1, Pštrossova 6, MNárodní třída,
tel. 224 93 42 03, www.globebookstore.cz. The Globe
provides a sophisticated atmosphere to meet other enlight-
ened souls. Darker walls indicate an edgier characterisation
to this bastion of expat life which had become a tad stuffy in
its middle age. The good food, books (new and second-hand)
and internet café remain but now we also have Gambrinus
on tap as well as live music and events spicing things up.
QOpen 9:30 - 01:00. (40 - 120Kč). AUE
Grand Café Orient F-3, Praha 1, Ovocný trh 19, MNáměstí
Republiky, tel. 224 22 42 40, www.grandcafeorient.cz. The
first floor of the Cubist House of the Black Madonna is home
to a truly unique Cubist-style café that was reconstructed from
photographs to match the one that was here from 1911 until the
1920s. Even café-capital Vienna doesn’t have one of these. The
simple menu lists pancakes, sandwiches and some good cof-
fee. Try to get a seat on the balcony overlooking Celetná street.
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. AP
Grand Café Praha E-3, Praha 1, Staroměstské nám. 22,
MStaroměstská, tel. 221 63 25 22, www.grandcafe.
cz. The Grand Café produces cakes, tortes and other sweet
delicacies for clock-watchers on Old Town Square and for
visiting dignitaries at the castle. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.
(95 - 490Kč). A
Káva Káva Káva G-6, Praha 5, Lidická 42, MAnděl,
www.kava-coffee.cz. The future of the café for Prague with
internet in the back (free 15 minutes with purchase), Wi-Fi all
over and superlative staff. Czech or English, it matters not
for these always happy-to-serve girls. Smoothies and café
frappés along with cheap Czech Mex standards make up the
menu after the more usual cakes and bagels. QOpen 07:00
- 22:00, Fri 07:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 -
22:00. Also at (E-4), Národní 31. (40 - 250Kč). W
Kafíčko C-2, Praha 1, Míšeňská 10, MMalostranská,
tel. 724 15 17 95. A haven for the healthy, Kafíčko serves
fabulous coffee and teas in a quiet smoke-free coffeehouse
just off mainstream tourism madness. Rest your soul for a bit
while you browse a newspaper, or try one of the home-made
cakes. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. G
Karlín London J-3, Praha 8, Sokolovská 32, MFlorenc.
This café serves up excellent cakes, pancakes and ice cream
with cheblíčký being the only savoury offerings. The oddity
here is the London murals, the faux double-decker bus, plus
Winston Churchill and the Queen watching you sip your coffee,
while the bathroom entrance is through the red phone box.
Q (40 - 150Kč).
Kavárna Obecní Dům Náměstí Republiky 5, MNáměstí
Republiky, tel. 222 00 27 63, kavarna.od@vyseh-
rad2000.cz, www.vysehrad2000.cz. Come for the atmo-
sphere as well as the treats. This Art Nouveau café on the
ground floor of Obecní Dům is one of the most elegant in town.
You’ll be treated to nice service amidst beautiful surroundings,
and we dare you to turn your head when they start wheeling
the cake cart around. A breakfast menu, plus sandwiches and
salads make this a good break point no matter what time of
day. QOpen 7:30 - 23:00. 90-470Kč. JAEB
April - May 2009
52 CAFÉS
Kavárna Pavilon J-5, Praha 2, Vinohradská 50,
MMuzeum, tel. 222 09 72 01, www.ambi.cz. The
Ambiente group are trying to make a go of the café space in
Vinohrady’s beautiful though hardly successful old market
space. Cafés and shops have come and gone, but Ambiente’s
excellent standards could be the winning combination. A wide
range of breakfast (e.g. soft boiled eggs in a cup), pastries and
small meals to accompany Wi-Fi and newspapers. QOpen
08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. W
Lemon Café Praha 6, Šlikova 27, tel. 233 35 06 54,
www.lemoncafe.cz. Up a steep slope from the tram line is
the light, airy and green Lemon Café with fresh bread, delicate
salads, sweet and savoury crepes, and divine cakes. The
casual bar area up front leads along a corridor lined with
tables to a rear room with large red sofas, an atrium and
dining tables. Magazines in English and Czech, including the
New Yorker entice but the cuisine is the real draw, especially
the homemade cakes. Tram 15, 22, 25 to Marjánka. QOpen
10:00 - 23:00, Fri 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun
11:00 - 23:00. (95 - 250Kč). PTAKW
Maluj Creative Café Praha 3, Korunní 105, MJiřího z
Poděbrad, tel. 774 62 58 51, www.studio-maluj.cz. Do
it yourself chic at this new café that serves up unglazed pot-
tery (plates, bowls, ashtrays, objects) in addition to the usual
café food and beverage items. Roll up your sleeves and get
creative with their paints, then they’ll glaze your work of art
for you to take home. QOpen 14:00 - 22:00. P
Nordica I-3, Praha 1, Zlatnická 10, MNám. Republiky,
tel. 222 32 39 00, www.scandinavianhouse.cz. The
clean-cut, well-lit café in the Scandinavian House is a mellow
place for some herring and vodka. Nordica provides more than
that though, with breakfast, toasties, salads and sandwiches
providing a well-priced snack menu. Readings, live music and
art events occur here occasionally. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. (42 - 130Kč). A
Ouky Douky Praha 7, Janovského 14, MVltavská, tel.
266 71 15 31, www.oukydouky.cz. Holesovice’s happiest
corner is somewhat like an expat hangout minus the expats –
it’s up to you to decide if that’s a good or bad thing. The cosy
bar sells good coffee and simple meals, sells books (mostly
Czech), has internet at 90Kč/hr and occasionally throws a
party. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.
Rybanaruby K-5, Praha 2, Mánesova 87, MJiřího z
Poděbrad, tel. 731 57 07 01, www.rybanaruby.cz. Part
café, part live music venue, part shop it goes into the café
section because of its opening hours. Underground music in a
very literal sense - down the stairs you’ll find legalize cannabis
proponents selling world music CDs, djembes, didgeridoos, etc.
and hosting similar veined live acts (admission 51 - 111Kč). Very
cool space. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.
Seventh Heaven Praha 5, Zborovská 68, tel. 257 31
81 10. Sprawling café in a space not unlike your mad uncle’s
apartment with armchairs you might never get out of in vari-
ous rooms. A piano and standard lamps stand guard although
this might not be the best place for reading as lights are dim.
Quiet anarchy seems to reign with kids running around, com-
puters whirring and deals being wheeled. Snacks and cakes
join the usual full bar, coffee and tea. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00,
Sat, Sun 14:00 - 01:00. (30 - 150Kč). TW
Shakespeare & Sons Praha 10, Krymská 12, tel. 271
74 08 39, www.shakes.cz. Thousands of handpicked new
and used English titles, earnest poetry and prose readings and
performance, newspapers, chess and backgammon, Bernard
Prague In Your Pocket
www.grandhotelpraha.cz Accommodation opposite the Astronomical clock
beer, some funky original art and mosaics, plus coffee, tea and
cakes. Tram N°4, 22 or 23 to the Krymská stop. QOpen 11:00
- 24:00. Also at C-2, U lužického semináře 10. E
Slavia C-4, Praha 1, Národní třída 1, MNárodní třída, tel.
224 21 84 93. Slavia is a throwback to days gone by with a
beautiful art deco interior and photos of celebrity patrons. Its
location can’t be beaten, with large windows open to Národní
Divadlo and the Vltava. Service is fine, but you can sit here for
quite a while without purchasing much from the very well-priced
menu. Good coffee, tasty meals, snacks and pastries are all
available. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (45 - 320Kč). PAU
Starbucks Praha 1, Malostranské nám. 28, MMalostran-
ské. Perhaps the last place on the planet without one, Prague
GRAND
hotel
is now the happy home to a Starbucks. Wipe the tear from
your eye and order your grande skinny latte, no whip. Smack
dab in the middle of Malostranské náměstí; impossible for the
masses to miss. The ground floor is spacious, but there’s
more comfy seating downstairs. QOpen 7:00 - 21:00, Sat,
Sun 8:00 - 21:00. 75-195kč.
U Budovce F-2, Praha 1, Týnská 7, MNám. Republiky,
tel. 222 32 59 08. A tiny, jumble-filled cellar, secluded down
GRAND hotel PRAHA PRAHA
a passage. Mellow jazzy tunes caress the random selection of Staroměstské náměstí 22
antique bric-a-brac whilst you play with the froth in your latte and 110 00 Praha 1 Grand hotel Praha is the only hotel offering a magical view
meditate on the good life. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (30 - 75Kč). of a unique historical sight, The Old Town Astronomical
Clock, from its windows.
U Prstenu D-3, Praha 1, Jilská 14, MStaroměstská, tel. Reception: +420 221 632 556 (557)
776 21 66 80, www.uprstenu.cz. A decidedly modernist Hotline: +420 606 600 583
establishment; crackly 1930s jazz crooning and funky old Grand hotel Praha presents high standards of comfort
wooden chairs combine nicely and contrast with the post- Fax: +420 221 632 558
modernity of the gallerie itself next door. This café is empty of e-mail: info@grandhotelpraha.cz and luxuriously furnished rooms.
both pretension and people - very pleasant indeed. QOpen
10:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (50 - 210Kč).
U Zavěšenýho kafe Praha 1, Úvoz 6, MMalostranská, tel.
605 29 45 95. The name refers to a time when richer clients paid www.grandcafe.cz
GRAND
café
for two coffees, leaving one for the next impoverished artist to ar-
rive. Sit and relax, buy a hanging coffee if you’re feeling philanthrop-
ic, otherwise while away the time in a space that exists outside the
tourist zone around it. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. BK PRAHA
Velryba H-5, Praha 1, Opatovická 24, MNárodní třída,
tel. 224 93 23 91. Packed and popular, The Whale has deli-
cious aromas wafting from the kitchen into the main seating
and eating area out front. Vegetarians will delight in the extent
of options available here and waiting diners of all proclivities
are often out of luck as people tend to linger. Go down the
hall and emerge into a sofa-laden café for less upstanding
evenings. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (100 - 200Kč).
Vesmírna I-5, Praha 1, Ve Smečkách 5, MMuzeum, tel.
222 21 23 63, www.vesmirna.cz. Not the fastest food in
the city as it’s all fresh made, but you are doing a good deed
as this café is part of a training programme for the mentally
disabled. With internet, art shows, a kid’s area and no smok-
ing zones, this place caters for all although the menu steers
towards salads and veggie options. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00,
Sat 13:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. (60 - 200Kč).
Yessi Café I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 4, MNám. Republiky,
tel. 222 21 25 85, www.yessicafe.cz. From the makers of
Pravda, Hot and Bellevue comes a casual café for the masses. GRAND café PRAHA
Purple and green dominate the upholstered sofas and stools. Grand cafe´s cakes will warm your heart and make every
Smoothies and juices are sadly pre-made, sandwiches too for Staroměstské náměstí 22
the lunch rush but you can also build your own. Italian water 110 00 Praha 1 occasion special.
ups the price, but the veggie and hummos sandwich (99Kč)
is superb. Alcohol and Illy coffee also served. QOpen 08:00 - Telefon: +420 221 632 520 (522) We want to do everything possible to make your visit to
19:00, Sat 9:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. PBS
Fax: +420 221 632 521 Grand cafe Praha the best it can be.
e-mail: info@grandcafepraha.cz
prague.inyourpocket.com
54 NIGHTLIFE NIGHTLIFE 55

Prague’s bar and club scene is as appropriately raucaus
as its infamy suggests. Prices and clientele veer widely
from the tourist-filled Old Town haunts to the sometimes
slightly seedy neighbourhood bars. You will find that beer
is drunk morning, noon and night, and that Czech beers
are among the best and cheapest in the world. Brands to
look out for include Pilsner Urquell, Gambrinus, Staropra-
men and Budweiser (Budvar). The average wage for bar
staff is 50Kč an hour, so please, after having your drinks
and your fun, show some appreciation with a decent tip.
Bars
Adagio K-5, Praha 2, Polská 7, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel.
737 52 50 81. Three worlds in one for this sleek restaurant,
café and bar in what was James Bond Café: international,
sushi and, the back room has been transformed into an
Arab café with sheesha (200Kč) and backgammon. The
Europe and the New World wine list is well selected and well
presented by the friendly and efficient staff. Cocktails and
Czech beer round out this worldly spot and DJs keep global
citizens around. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00.
PAK
Aloha Wave Lounge E-1, Praha 1, Dušní 11,
MStaroměstská, tel. 724 05 57 04, www.alohapraha.
cz. Wear a flower in your hair and head downstairs to Aloha’s
cocktail lounge, featuring a long bar, Pacific cocktails at nice
prices (try the Chi-Chi, with vodka, pineapple and coconut),
and a dance floor to hula to nightly R&B and rock music.
Q Open 18:00 - 04:00, Mon, Sat, Sun 18:00 - 02:00.
PAE
Back Doors Praha 5, Na Bělidle 30/310, MAnděl,
tel. 257 31 58 24, www.backdoors.cz. This space is
part restaurant, part bar and part club in the cellar of an old
Smíchov house. Massive wooden furniture and forged iron
work complement the brick walls and parquet floor of its
historical setting. Good for their lunch specials and fabulous
for the night time change to music bar with high quality audio
system, where you can hear various styles of music from
famous Czech DJs. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 04:00,
Sat 18:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:00. AE
Blatouch E-2, Praha 1, Vězeňská 4, MNám. Republiky,
tel. 222 32 86 43. The soothing interior is flanked by stun-
ning old bookcases. Seems like a suitable place to get quietly
smashed on absinth whilst pretending to be intellectual, or
to have a cheap and healthy lunch-time snack. The best
thing about this place is the diminutive, sheltered garden at
the back, perfect for spring days. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri
11:00 - 02:00, Sat 13:00 - 02:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. U
Blind Eye K-4, Praha 3, Vlkova 26, MJiřího z Poděbrad,
www.blindeye.cz. You can’t keep a Blind Eye down… having
been forced into speakeasy mode following a visit from the cops,
Blind Eye is back on legal street so doors and windows will be
open again to welcome the mixed crowd into its cellar interior.
Friendly folk on both sides of the bar keep the vibe going late with
help from well mixed drinks (try their signature McFly) and cool
tunes. Video rental too. QOpen 19:00 - 04:00. E6
Blue Light Bar B-2, Praha 1, Ostrovní 32, MMalostranská,
tel. 224 93 22 49, www.bluelightbar.cz. This tiny bar is always
busy, and even if you get a table, this doesn’t mean you’ll keep
it to yourself. An older crowd jostles, jokes and jives late into the
night in this supposed jazz club. It seldom has live music, but it
does play chill tunes, from Barry White to Prince to jazz standards.
Strangely, this is a beer drinking country after all, they only serve
small beers and at 30Kč, they ain’t cheap although well mixed
cocktails provide a smooth alternative. It’s a cool hot spot with
very interesting interior design. QOpen 18:00 - 03:00.
Bombay Cocktail Bar E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 13,
MStaroměstská, tel. 721 882 557, www.rasoi.cz. One of the
city’s best late night hot spots, Bombay seldom disappoints with
a wide range of cocktails, DJs who actually play what the crowd
wants to hear and a diverse clientele in the right frame of mind to
have fun. Enough said. QOpen 12:00 - 04:00. ABP
Bugsy’s E-2, Praha 1, Pařížská 10, MStaroměstská,
tel. 224 81 02 87, www.bugsysbar.cz. Bugsy’s has been
around for a fair while now, but it has managed to keep the
‘it’ that means it is a place to go if you wanted everyone who
has ‘it’ to think that you have ‘it’ too. A trendy and hip crowd
guaranteed then, as is a menu featuring plenty of decent
Coyotes E-3, Praha 1, Malé nám. 2, MStaroměstská, have found the place for you. With pool hall and new roulette
tel. 224 21 60 00, www.coyotes.cz. Lots of beauties float- wheel upstairs and laser golf, laser karaoke and archery
ing around here; both behind and in front of the bar. Nightly DJ’s down in the black walled cellar, Harlequin will keep the most
spin the best from the 70’s, 80’s & 90’s. Cocktails and food dysfunctional group happy. Archery tuition on various bows
complete the night.QOpen 11:00 - 03:00. PA for a lot of fun from 19:00 - 24:00 is 200Kč per bow per hour.
Golf 400Kč. Well priced but bottled only beer downstairs,
DC1 I-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 1, MMůstek, tel. 224 Krušovice upstairs for 24Kč. An intriguing gem of a place.
24 75 15, info@dc1.cz, www.dc1.cz. Image is important, QOpen 14:00 - 04:00. K
based on the hip crowd you see lounging at DC1. The interior
is designed to match their carefully maintained looks. DJ’s Harley’s E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 18, tel. 227 19 51 95,
and dancing are the norm here; plus good-looking people. www.harleys.cz. Interesting mix of bikers, locals and tour-
The restaurant is basic; pastas, meat dishes and cocktails.
QOpen 09:00 - 03:00. Restaurant: 09:00-24:00, Club:
ists, this long, long bar has emerged on the scene not just
because of their large US style food, well mixed drinks or Wild
21:00-03:00 (150 - 380Kč). PB Cats (shot shifting girls) but due to the presence of two of
Dusk till Dawn’s barmen. Check it out. Shots around 60Kč and
Gecko H-5, Praha 1, Mikulandská 2, MNárodní třída, tel. Jack 80Kč. QOpen 18:00 - 03:00. (120 - 350Kč). A
776 11 72 93. Gecko could be mistaken for a chameleon as it
appears to be a fine place for a quiet drink then suddenly you’re Hospoda Lucerna I-4, Praha 1, Vodíčkova 39, tel.
having a crazy time in what was the smallest bar in Prague. A 221 14 63 37, www.hospodalucerna.cz. A long, loud
kitchen (good, cheap eats) and small music club downstairs bar with the rock feel of the music hall opposite and serves
plus more tables have almost quadrupled the bar space. The up decent and cheap meals in the belly of the city. A 30
fun factor has not been diluted. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00. person private dining room is available or join the throng
in the carved totem pole littered room with alcove tables
Hapu Praha 3, Orlická 8, MFlóra, tel. 222 72 01 58. The and various people eating, drinking and being merry. This
owner/barman creates magnificent drinks with studious care, hospoda often hosts bands’ post-gig nights. During the day,
there’s no tossing of shakers here, just mountains of fresh enjoy the atmosphere – it’s been here since 1908. QOpen
fruit and shots that would floor an elephant. Get here early if 10:00 - 03:00. KW
you want a seat or stand until you hit the deck because this
place is tiny, has sounds the chilly end of cool and is therefore Irish Club Prague H-1, Praha 7, Keramická 4, tel. 233
constantly packed. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. 37 11 28, www.irishclubprague.com. An Irish bar in the
heart of Letná rather than Old Town allows for friendlier prices
Harlequin J-5, Praha 2, Vinohradská 25, MMuzeum, and local attendance. Live (Irish & Czech country, blues and
tel. 224 21 72 40, www.harlequin.zde.cz. This combo more) music (there is also a piano for punters), quiz nights,
would probably never happen anywhere else, but when you foosball and warm wooden interior. Gambrinus 20Kč. Accom-
feel like having a few beers then shoot some arrows, we modation available upstairs. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.

Bambus F-2, Praha 1, Benediktská 12, MNám. Repub-

cocktails. QOpen 19:00 - 02:00. AEP

Casa Havana H-5, Praha 1, Opatovická 28, MNárodní

liky, tel. 224 82 81 10. Finding a seat in this warm and
bustling, bamboo-laden bar can be a demanding task but a
fine array of cocktails and Pilsner Urquell on tap will help you to
relax afterwards. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Sat 11:00 - 02:00,
Sun 11:00 - 24:00. A
Get In Your Pocket before you go
třída, tel. 602 32 10 07, www.casahavana.cz. Cool and The full In Your Pocket range is available to purchase online at:
stylish, this classic Cuban bar is sure to become a classic
Prague hangout. Dark wood, low lights, smooth Cuban
tunes…oh and nearly 100 different kind of rum; a cocktail
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Bar and Books F-2, Praha 1, Týnská 19, MNám. 2006 - 2007 August - September 2006 August - September 2006 August - September 2006 April - May 2006

Republiky, tel. 224 80 82 50, www.barandbooks.net. Chateau Rouge F-3, Praha 1, Jakubská 2, MNám.
Deep red walls and ceilings, soft leather benches, dark wood Republiky, tel. 222 31 63 28, www.chateaurouge.cz. A
finishing, books filling one complete wall and impeccable local legend. This large, dark red bar continues to be the place
service typify Bar & Books. Cocktails (140Kč) vie with an to head for to indulge a multitude of vices. A deeper and darker Going to the
chapel
Karlštejn’s renovated
jewel

astounding array of whiskey, wine and cigars in this classy cellar room kicks in later in the evening as a DJ and dance
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Visiting the Bohemian Touring Narva
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Sun 18:00 - 03:00. (105 - 295Kč). AP BUCHAREST BELFAST RIGA COLOGNE HAMBURG KRAKÓW

Cloud 9 J2, Praha 8, Pobřežní 1, MFlorenc, tel. 224 84 April - May 2006 August - September 2006 April - May 2006 June - July 2006 June - July 2006 August - September 2006

Barock H-3, Praha 1, Pařížská 24, MStaroměstská, tel. 29 99, info@cloud9.cz, www.cloud9.cz. Nine floors up, Football events
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and sashaying. The aprons will come buzzing around you to concoctions. A small grazing menu offers an eclectic line-up Hockey Fever Harbour tours
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offer expertly crafted drinks, succulent sushi, and a reassuringly of tastes and weekend DJ’s keep the vibe going. Atop the
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Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com April - May 2009

56 NIGHTLIFE NIGHTLIFE 57

Jet Set Praha 5, Radlická 1c, MAnděl, tel. 257 32 72

¼ÃȹÀ”µÁ¶µÇǵ¸ÃÆ ”Ê·ÀµÊÇ¿&”ÂÁ'ÇÈ/”© ”ÄƵ¼µ”¥
TEL: +420 724 747 401
ª’¿’Ÿ’¦’³¿
¼ÃȹÀ”·ÃƽÂȼ½µ”ĵÂÃƵÁµ ”Á½À¹ÊÇ¿”« ”ÄƵ¼µ”¨
TEL: +420 724 747 403
51. The central square bar is low enough for all drinkers to
scan the crowd and check out who’s who this evening, the split
levels ensure dancers with confidence will be centre stage,
and the DJs make sure everyone has to get close together for
any conversation. It’s sleek, chic and designed to empty NYC
wannabes’ pockets with style. The great menu has a Mediter-
ranean influence. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. ABGP
Kozička E-2, Praha 1, Kozí 1, MStaroměstská, tel.
224 81 83 08, www.kozicka.cz. Tagged out front by the
sculpture of an iron goat, Kozička is entered via heavy red
curtains, down the stairs and into the labyrinthine set of
rooms. Good food adds to the late night party vibe and this
is one of the kitchens that’ll feed us late into the Prague night
- till 01:45 in fact. QOpen 12:00 - 04:00, Sat 18:00 - 04:00,
Sun 18:00 - 03:00. AIP
La Belle Epoque D-3, Praha 1, Křižovnická 8,
MStaroměstská, tel. 222 32 19 26. The place is decked
out with aesthetic treasures such as American highway signs,
Japanese car dealership merchandising and, ever since some
minor film star went there once, an attitude to make Joan Col-
lins seem down-to-earth. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PAI
La Casa Blů E-1, Praha 1, Kozí 15, MStaroměstská, tel.
224 81 82 70, www.lacasablu.cz. A package deal of generic
South Americana sold as the real deal. A pleasing and soothing
spirit pervades the darkened corners, which are perfect, when
a little recuperation is needed, for sprawling in but at the same
time you can perch at the bar and find yourself in the midst of
a mini Mardi Gras. Ay caramba the food is great too. QOpen
11:00 - 24:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. EK6W
Le Tram H-1, Praha 7, Šmeralova 12, tel. 233 370
359. The French owner of this red-lit funky bar has bits of
trams all over the place – from the plastic chairs to the hand
railings. Better yet are the cheap beers and cocktails that
the wizards behind the bar conjure up, and the great French
multi-culti music which is DJed or played live in the rear corner.
QOpen 20:00 - 06:00.
Lokalblok Praha 5, nám. 14. října 10, MAnděl, tel.
777 24 24 76, www.lokalblok.cz. A climbing bar in Anděl,
with air conditioned walls, claiming to be the third largest in
Europe. With good overhangs and some tough lines, the wall
will create a thirst that is easily and cheaply quenched in the
popular bar upstairs, where the prime sport is vertical flirting.
A weird foosball table downstairs too. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.
Climbing wall open 09:00 - 22:00; Sat & Sun 12:00 - 22:00.
60Kč per day. BP
Mad Bar Plaská 5, MMalostranská, tel. 775 12 22
56/257 21 98 55, madbar@madbar.cz, www.madbar.cz.
Fun, clean joint that doesn’t really life up to its “mad” moniker.
All the more reason to go - they have a small, but varied menu
and the prices are reasonable for the area. Plus a happy hour
from 16:00-19:00 means 25% of food and drink. Go mad.
QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 15:00 - 21:00.
Molotow Cocktail Bar H-5, Praha 2, Karlovo nám.
31, MKarlovo nám., tel. 222 23 33 34, www.molotow.
cz. Requisite black marble, zoot suit silver trappings in the
bathroom and pretty folk on mobiles sipping at the bar. How-
ever, Molotow transcends the cliché and provides a wicked
although somewhat expensive night out. Mojitos et al. are
125Kč, but, as ever, sit at the bar, make friends with the
talented staff and see if they’ll give you a Dragon’s Breath,
which even if you pay for it, is worth the spectacle. And the
hangover… QOpen 18:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. PA
Casinos
There are lots of places in which you can lose your
shirt - just make sure it’s a smart shirt or you won’t
even get in in the first place! All of these places will
gladly receive your cash in Czech crowns or US dollars
and give you free booze with which to drown your
sorrows. You’ll need to be over 18, well-dressed and in Na Příkopě 10, Praha 1
possession of ID to play.
Open daily 4 p.m. – 3 a.m.
Ambassador Casino E-4, Václavské Nám. 5,
MMůstek, tel. +420 724 747 401, www.vipclub.
cz. Poker, roulette, blackjack, pontoon and slots at- American/Touch Bet
tract a sophisticated crowd with the casino’s excellent,
knowledgeable staff, and appropriate atmosphere. Q
Open 24hrs. AK
Roulettes
Casino Panorama Praha 4, Milevská 7, MPank-
rác, tel. +420 724 747 403, www.vipclub.cz. The
Corinthia Panorama Hotel hosts another winning casino
Black Jack
from the VIP group. The usual games and slot machines
are on offer, with drinks and refreshments. Q Open
20:00 - 04:00. AL
See advertisement on p. 56.
Poker
Banco Casino F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 27, MNám.
Republiky, tel. 221 96 73 80, www.bancocasino.cz. One
of Prague’s favourite casinos, set in a central location difficult to
SLOT ROOM
beat. All your favourite games are available, there are state of
the art slot machines, a private salon and a general atmosphere
of unadulterated luxury that entices even James Bond: it was
used in Casino Royale... Q Open 24 hours. A
Bohemia Praha 4, 5. května 65 (Congress Centre),
MVyšehrad, tel. 241 41 25 87. Prague’s first casino.
With slot machines, poker, Blackjack and the usual sus-
pects both on and off the tables, Bohemia is as good a
place as ever to gamble your crowns away. Smart dress
and ID required. QOpen 17:00 - 05:00. AKL
Casino de Prague Le Hilton J-2, Praha 8, Pobřežní
1 (Hotel Hilton), MFlorenc, tel. 224 81 09 88. One
of the favoured casinos for Prague expats, the Hilton pro-
vides roulette, poker, blackjack, pontoon, Punto Banco,
and slots with the worldwide standards of the Hilton chain.
QOpen 14:00 - 06:00. A
Casino President E-1, Praha 1, Nám. Curieových
100 (President Hotel), MStaromětská, tel. 234 61
41 13, www.casinopresident.cz. Roulette, black jack,
poker, pontoon and slots available at this luxurious new
casino. Minimum bets are 100Kč for blackjack, et al.
TRY YOUR LUCK!
and 25Kč on roulette. Free soft drinks while you gamble.
QOpen 18:00 - 04:00. A
Free entry
Photo ID required
No dress code
Casino Palais Savarin F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 10,
MMůstek, tel. 224 22 16 36, www.czechcasinos. Tel.: +420 224 221 636
cz. The home of Prague entertainment for over 10 years,
come try your hand at Poker, American Roulette, Black
www.czechcasinos.cz
Jack and more. QOpen 16:00 - 03:00. A

Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com April - May 2009

58 NIGHTLIFE
Papas D-4, Praha 1, Betlémské nám. 8, MNárodní třída,
tel. 222 22 22 29, www.papasbar.cz. It’s all louche and lazy
at Papas. Red walls, yellow leather banquettes and smoky glass
give an upmarket feel. The Mediterranean menu is the usual, yet
tasty, mix of salads, pasta and fish. Why does everyone insist on
scrawling cocktail specials in neon pen across perfect people-
watching windows? QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. A
Pekelnej Bar Praha 5, Na Bělidle 38, MAnděl, tel. 257 32
24 10, www.pekelnejbar.cz. Anděl might mean angel in Czech,
but this part of town is acquiring a devilish reputation. Pekelnej,
meaning Hellish, is heavy on chains, red drapery and attitude. DJs
spin nightly although the lack of dance floor means you have to
jostle with one another. Excellent Bloody Mary for just 80Kč and
Czech wine from 160Kč a bottle. QOpen 17:00 - 03:00.
Repete F-2, Praha 1, Rybná 17, MNám. Republiky,
tel. 224 81 40 62. A long, many-roomed bar tucked behind
Kotva and appealing to the Old Town crowd looking for a
cheaper, calmer place to sup some drinks. Friendly staff and
happy drinkers provide a decadent atmosphere later, while
wine-sipping shoppers fill the tables during the day. Pilsner
35Kč. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00, Fri 15:00 - 02:00, Sat 17:00
- 02:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:30.
Ridgeback H-5, Praha 1, Karlovo nám. 288/17,
MKarlovo nám., tel. 721 44 88 76. Religious iconography
abounds with hand painted murals in this world and rhythm
live and DJ music venue and bar. Confusing for those who
know the (Žitná) Ridgeback of late, this is actaully a completely
new venue, although some similar faces make appearances
in this two-room spot, and the vibe is dictated by the music
and the crowd it attracts. Q Open 14:00 - 02:00. Fri & Sat
17:00 - 05:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. E
St. Nicholas Café A-2, Praha 1, Tržiště 10, MMalostran-
ská. Purportedly a wine bar, St. Nick’s has been attracting
drinkers of all vogues for years and his allure hasn’t waned.
Dedicated drinkers keep the vibe going late and jazzy live
music adds to the cellar ambience. Snacks available. QOpen
12:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 01:00.
Sudička K-6, Praha 3, Nitranská 7, MJiřího z Poděbrad,
tel. 222 52 06 72, www.sudicka.cz. The muted wooden
floors and furniture in this cellar space provide a perfect venue
for low down, chill out conversation to the accompaniment of a
few drinks. The fireplace entices all during the cooler months,
and despite the listed closing time, Sudička keeps the mel-
low vibe well into the night. Czech bar snacks, magazines
and no music typify the place, while the 0.4L beers ensure
it isn’t a haven for drunks. QOpen 10:33 - 23:00, Sat, Sun
12:33 - 23:00. I
Swank E-3, Praha 1, Havelská 499/27, MMůstek, tel.
777 32 99 17, www.swankbar.cz. Cool and minimalist
or plastic and pretentious, Swank can be both, but there’s
no denying they serve a good cocktail. Tucked away from
the madding crowd, Swank offers a no smoking area, happy
hour (50% from 15:00) and events and parties in addition
drawing a thirsty bunch of drinkers most nights. QOpen
14:00 - 24:00. AG
Tretters E-2, Praha 1, V Kolkovně 3, MStaroměstská,
tel. 224 81 11 65, www.tretters.cz. The bar certainly
seems sure of its leading role here, swallowing up so much of
the space that it leaves little room for customers. And rightly
so. Committed barmen can rattle up some seriously decent
cocktails and they serve the best Bloody Marys in town.
Wear a suit or the staff will probably sneer at you. QOpen
19:00 - 03:00. AP
Prague In Your Pocket
Casinos, part II
Centur y Casino Millennium I-3, Praha 1,
V Celnici 10, MNám. Republiky, tel. 221 03 34 01,
www.cnty.com. Catering to the likes of the Marriott
Hotel, the Century Casino in the Millennium Plaza boasts
excellent croupiers who will help out beginners and take
anyone’s money. The usual roulette, poker and blackjack
are available. QOpen 15:00 - 04:00. AL
Spearmint Casino D-1, Praha 1, U Plovárny 8, tel.
257 535 755, www.spearmintcasino.cz. Come to
the only English-style casino in Prague. Spearmint has
the highest limits available in the city. Try your luck at rou-
lette, pontoon, blackjack and poker or play in the private
gaming room. If mechanics are more your thing, head
for the new slot machines upstairs. Free transport to
the casino is also available. Admission is free. QOpen
16:00 - 05:00, Mon, Tue 17:00 - 05:00. A
Trilobit H-4, Praha 1, Palackého 715/15, MMůstek,
tel. 224 94 60 65. Surprisingly bright for a brick cellar, this
bar and restaurant serves up decent Czech and international
dishes as well as a few vegetarian options. It’s a good place
to sneak in a drink in relative anonymity, or grab a late meal.
Kitchen open till 01:00. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00
- 24:00. AP
Tropison cocktail bar E-2, Praha 1, Nám. Republiky
8, MNám. Republiky, tel. 224 80 12 76, www.tropison.
com. The top floor of the hideous Kotva shopping complex
has turned into a tropical oasis by transforming into a rocking
Latino club, with regular Salsa lessons, shows, club nights
and a obstinately Czech menu. QOpen 20:00 - 03:00, Thu,
Fri 20:00 - 05:00, Sat 19:00 - 05:00, Sun 18:00 - 03:00.
AEP
Ultramarin H-4, Praha 1, Ostrovní 32, MNárodní třída,
tel. 224 93 22 49, www.ultramarin.cz. Deep in an old
cellar, Ultramarin has pricey but decently made drinks and a
few bugs to iron out service-wise. They’ve browsed through
the chic end of the renovation brochure producing a feel that
is definitely style over substance. QOpen 11:00 - 04:00.
AEP
Wakata I-1, Praha 7, Malířská 14, MVltavská, tel. 233
37 05 18, www.wakata.cz. You’ll have plenty of time to
admire the owner’s welding work, in the form of outlandish
bar stools, whilst waiting for staff to relocate your order in
the scrambled minds which they nonchalantly nod to a great
soundtrack of hip-hop and other assortments. QOpen
17:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 05:00. E
Zanzibar B-2, Praha 1, Lázeňská 6, MMalostranská,
tel. 602 78 00 76, www.monin.cz. The cocktails here are
good – although we got a margarita in a martini glass – but
make sure to sit at the bar. Wait staff are appalling with service
running the gamut from brusque to nonexistent. The Rolling
Stones improved the atmosphere but décor appears of the
Mexican restaurant ilk. Cocktails are 85-150Kč, and Pilsner
50Kč. QOpen 17:00 - 03:00. P
Zapa Bar Dušní 6, MStaroměstská, tel. 222 31 58 99,
www.zapabar.cz. If you’re looking for a quiet place to chat
and have a cocktail, Zapa is for you. Prices are decent for the
centre of town, the staff is pleasant and you can usually get
a seat and relax. QOpen 18:00 - 2:00.
prague.inyourpocket.com
Clubs
Abaton Praha 8, Na Košince 8 / Povltavská 2175,
MPalmovka, tel. 602 32 44 34, www.prostorabaton.
cz. Very cool club a tad out of town but with one of the best
programs in the city, be it drum n bass DJs or live music to
the tune of Chumbawamba, Natacha Atlas, The Dresden
Dolls or Free Monday local heroes such as Dirty Airlines.
Beer hall downstairs with video feed from the stage upstairs.
Open for gigs only and closing time depends on the band/
after party. Tram 10, 24, 25 to stanice Stejskalova QOpen
19:00 - 03:00. E
Akropolis K-4, Praha 3, Kubelíkova 27, MJiřího z
Poděbrad, tel. 296 33 09 11, www.palacakropolis.cz.
Akropolis goes a long way to saving the world on those hum-
drum nights in the winter. A sprawling den of scruffy delights
with great and often unusual live music and DJs. There are two
bars, an adjoining café, plus the excellent gig space offering
some of the most intriguing music in Prague on offer. Gigs have
to finish at 22:00 so start times here are punctual. QOpen
16:00 - 04:00. Admission 30 - 400Kč. EKW
Celnice I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 4, MNám. Republiky,
tel. 224 21 22 40, www.celnice.com. Young Czech ladies
dressed in the day’s fashions, usually nearly see-through
knee-length white pants and heels, ponder the differences
between expats in plaid shirts and tattooed bartenders who
look like they just stepped out of a fashion magazine. Dance
chart toppers get a lot of airplay here. QOpen 11:00 - 04:00,
Mon, Tue, Sun 11:00 - 02:00. ABGP
Cross Club Praha 7, Plynární 23, tel. 736 53 50 53,
www.crossclub.cz. One of Prague’s underground legends
has emerged into legal luminescence as the cool kid on the
block. The labyrinthine den has, despite its slightly out of the
way location, become a firm favourite. Jungle, drum ‘n base,
house and chill out have their own rooms and the music,
whether DJ or live, has to compete with some of the funkiest,
most inventive and ever-changing décor around. QOpen
14:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 05:00. 6EBK
Duplex I-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 21, MMůstek,
tel. 732 22 11 11, info@duplex.cz, www.duplex.cz. A
massive designer space fed by a couple of lifts from street
level, this is where Mick Jagger decided to spend his birthday,
which has probably made the place even more full of itself.
Theme nights range from Dirty Dancing parties on Fridays
to local and international DJ’s on Saturdays. QOpen , Wed,
Thu, Fri 22:00 - 05:00, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Sun. ABK
Euforia H-5, Praha 2, Žitná 4, MKarlovo Nám., tel.
222 22 16 22, www.euforia-restaurant.eu. Upstairs is
a stylish modern Mediterranean restaurant (100 - 300Kč)
with fabulous people watching windows and TVs if the live
show is boring. Downstairs in the beautifully restored cellar
is a huge bar with over 200 cocktails, DJs, dance floor and
lots of young, rich Czechs and expats. Euforia is not a misno-
mer; mooch over and enjoy. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 05:00. BK
Futurum G-6, Praha 5, Zborovská 7, MAnděl, tel. 257
32 85 71, www.musicbar.cz. Smíchov is on its way to glory,
and the way is paved by Futurum’s, er, futuristic rooms. Its
ultra modern conversions with eccentric lighting and exposed
metal and brick is inventive. The place hosts launch parties
for Czech bands, the odd cultural festival and half-decent
DJs. Fridays host their popular 80s & 90s night. QOpen
20:00 - 03:00. Admission 100Kč. E
prague.inyourpocket.com
NIGHTLIFE 59
Karlovy Lázně C-3, Praha 1, Smetanovo nábreží 198,
MStaroměstská, tel. 222 22 05 02, www.karlovylazne.
cz. Set up as Prague’s superclub, this place has been rebuilt
with panache, e.g. the transparent floor thus enabling you to
comfortably look up girls’ skirts. Live bands, chillout rooms
and free internet access in the basement, standard tunes
one floor up, eclectica up one again, and more hard core
dance tracks in the loft. Q MCM Internet Café open 10:00
- 05:00. Club open 21:00 - 05:00. Admission 21:00-22:00
50Kč, after 22:00 120Kč.
Klub 007 Strahov Praha 6, Vaníčkova 7, Koleje ČVUT
blok 7, tel. 257 21 14 39, www.klub007strahov.cz.
Skulking in the basement of a block of student accommoda-
tion near Stadion Strahov, this hardcore/punk and hip-hop
club has been keeping study results bad for years. QOpen
19:30 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 19:30 - 02:00. E
Klub Lávka C-3, Praha 1, Novotného lávka 1,
MStaroměstská, tel. 222 22 21 56, www.lavka.cz.
Lávka occupies a beautiful corner right next to Charles Bridge,
with terraces looking across the water to the castle. This is
about as apt and tasteful as say... putting Elton John in charge
of your funeral arrangements and expecting an occassion of
grace and dignity. QOpen 21:30 - 05:00. AEKPU
La Fabrique E-4, Praha 1, Uhelný trh 2, MMůstek,
tel. 224 23 31 37, www.lafabrique.cz. A swish complex
of large underground rooms sets the scene for the La Fab-
rique’s definition of a music club. The hordes of uniformed
employees are friendly and efficient. Downstairs, the dance
floor is packed with a mixture of expats and Czechs doing
the meat-market disco stomp to whatever weird mixture the
DJ (who couldn’t gauge the atmosphere of a morgue) serves
up to them. QOpen 11:00 - 04:00. AP
Lucerna Music Bar I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 36,
MMůstek, tel. 224 21 71 08, www.musicbar.cz. The
more popular local bands and the smaller international groups
ply their trade here fairly regularly. Every Saturday you can find
an un-hip, unpretentious crowd cavorting at their disarmingly
popular 1980s night, which has led to the doors being closed
because of sheer numbers. QOpen 19:00 - 06:00. Admis-
sion 50 - 150Kč. EP
April - May 2009
60 NIGHTLIFE
M1 E-2, Praha 1, Masná 1, MStaroměstská, tel. 221 87
42 56. Grey and industrial looking, this railroad car of a bar
is an ideal place to lounge around. Swamped barmen deftly
pour drinks in front of the glow of illuminated spirits on the wall.
New owners have shifted the scene some at Prague’s M1,
with nightly themes from the increasingly popular Sunday chill
out sessions to ladies’ night and DJ Big J’s Smokin’ Fridays.
QOpen 18:00 - 04:00. A
Mecca Praha 7, U Průhonu 3, MNádraží Holešovice,
tel. 602 71 12 25, mecca@mecca.cz, www.mecca.cz.
Mecca has taken the proceeds from its status as the recent
clubbing star of Prague and done something very odd. It has
spent it on making the club even better. Now one can hardly
shuffle from one foot to other without falling into the lap of
some super-model clubbing lass lying back on one of the huge
white sofas. The DJ’s they showcase are some of the best
town. QOpen , Wed, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Thu, Sun. Admission 150 - 200Kč. PAUE
Nebe H-5, Praha 1, Křemencova 10, MNárodní třída,
tel. 777 80 04 11. This slice of heaven produces what its
punters want every night and hence conjures up a good vibe,
happy drinkers and DJs who do have a clue about creating and
keeping the atmosphere. Bar keeps add to the atmosphere
which goes on late. QOpen 19:00 - 05:00.
Popocafepetl Music Club Praha 1, Újezd 19, www.
popocafepetl.cz. The space is small but well utilised and
already drawing the crowds. Located by trendy Downtown
Café, this block is a new hotspot. Their bookings are an in-
ternational bunch from homegrown talent to bands/members
from SCO/FRA/SK/HU. Sundays have proved a good night
for Gitans (CZ) and their gypsy nights. Gigs begin at 20.30.
Admission up to 150Kč. QOpen 16.00 - 02.00. E
Punto Azul Praha 5, Kroftova 1, MAnděl, tel. 257 32
85 94, www.puntoazul.cz. If you tire of laughing at coked-up
Martini people as the raison d’etre of your night life, try, as a
suitable antidote, a long night with scruffy local ragamuffins
playing tunes ranging between drum’n’bass, underground
techno and deep house. A fine selection of cheap beers in a
comfy budget bar/club with plenty of space to lounge around.
QOpen 17:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 19:00 - 03:00. Admission
50 - 100Kč. E
Retro Music Hall J-6, Praha 2, Franzouzská 4, MNám.
Míru, tel. 603 47 67 47, www.retropraha.cz. A new
and rising star of a club of the same name as the adjacent
restaurant and music bar. The club has a good and varied
roster of local and international bands and DJs rocking the
decent floor, balcony and stage space. Open for gigs only
and closing time depends on the band/after party. Admis-
sion 30 - 500Kč depending on the band. Q Open Thu - Sat
17:00 - 05:00. EP
Rock Café D-4, Praha 1, Národní 20, MNárodní třída,
tel. 224 93 39 47, www.rockcafe.cz. The front bar
remains the same, but inside, all has changed. The main
stage has been moved down a level, meaning that this always
great venue has effectively removed the 22:00 live curfew
so many clubs here are curtailed by. Three bars and a funky,
boxy lounge with cool mural graffiti and screen to watch the
band well away from the mosh pit make Rock Café the suave
new place for live music. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00, Sat 17:00 -
03:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. Admission 50 - 100Kč. EW
Roxy E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 33, MNám. Republiky, tel.
224 82 62 96, www.roxy.cz. Probably the best club in
Prague, years of kudos keep the place hopping despite some
Prague In Your Pocket
sound issues. Live acts and DJs plus the divinely eclectic Free
Mondays. Q Box office open 16:00. Club open for concerts
19:00, for club nights 22:00. EP
Solidní nejistota H-5, Praha 1, Pštrossova 21,
MNárodní třída, tel. 224 93 30 86, www.solidninejis-
tota.cz. This long red hall divided by an oval-shaped bar is
a meat market in more ways than one. Older women arrive
early to colect bar stools, younger women come later for the
dancing while the most beautiful show up any time knowing
they’ll always be offered a seat. Juicy steaks cooked to order
until 03:00. QOpen 19:00 - 06:00. AKP
Studio 54 J-3, Praha 1, Hybernská 38, www.studio54.
cz. Where the crowds go for the after party, things often
don’t kick off here till well into the morning, so be cool and
arrive fashionably late. Don’t forget your sunglasses. QOpen
05:00 - 15:00. Admission 100Kč.
Top Secret Club E-2, Praha 1, Masná 9, MStaroměstská,
tel. 222 31 69 03, www.info@topsecretclub.cz, www.
topsecretclub.cz. The secret’s out - Top Secret is one cool
joint. The club is happening; and the cafe is open long hours.
Brunch is offered on the weekends. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00,
Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. Cafe is open everyday
(8:00-22:00); club only Tuesdays-Saturdays (22:00-5:00.)
U Bukanýra F-1, Praha 1, Nábřeží L. Svobody, MNám.
Republiky, tel. 608 97 35 82, www.bukanyr.cz. Find Bu-
kanýra, a houseboat-looking floating bar and club at another
new address under Štefánikova most. It’s small but friendly
and always busy with chilled groups lounging in the comfort-
able seating. Various DJs spin discs while boozers smooze and
movers groove. QOpen , Thu 19:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 21:00
- 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. The summer terrace bar
is open 16:00 - 24:00, closed Sun & Mon. B
U Buldoka Praha 5, Preslova 1, MAnděl, tel. 257 32
91 54, www.ubuldoka.cz. Straddling the fence between a
munched out smokey dive of a bar and a club because it’s
open late and has DJs, The Bulldog, in the same vein that
it was started in a few years ago, is the receptacle for the
flotsam and jetsam from Chateau across the river. QOpen
20:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. Admission 50 - 100Kč.
Vagon D-4, Praha 1, Národní 25, MNárodní třída, tel.
221 08 55 99, www.vagon.cz. Vagon was a dancing hall
during communist times so if your parents are too old to
boogie here come yourself and check out the dedication
to the artwork, if not exactly the spirit, of the decadent
1960s. An excellent live venue renowned for quality cover
bands, local and international acts plus an open mic night
on select Mondays. QOpen 18:00 - 05:00, Sun 18:00 -
01:00. E
Vertigo E-4, Praha 1, Havelská 4, MMůstek, tel. 774
74 42 56, www.vertigo-club.cz. Whether by design or by
accident, this club does indeed spin the mind… split levels
and balconies loiter under low ceilings while some of the
weirdest video footage ever accompanies the tracks to cre-
ate a space that lures your mind and your feet. Excellent DJs
and unusual theme nights attract a disparate group of folk.
Q Club: Thu - Sat 21:00 - 04:00; café: 08:00 - 21:00 except
club nights open to 04:00. Admission free. P
XT3 Praha 3, Rokycanova 29, MFlóra, tel. 222 78 34
63, www.xt3.cz. A short walk from Flóra or JzP, this fabulous
cavern space of a club in Žižkov has become the new home
of XT3 (it was, and will always be to many, Guru). Come early
or be lucky, but get one of the balcony booths. Live music
prague.inyourpocket.com
and/or DJs plus foosball, flippery (pinball),and a café upstairs
with cool sofas. The eclectic crowd accompanies the talent.
QOpen 11:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 03:00. Admission
from 30Kč for live acts. E
Zlaté časy H-5, Praha 1, Vladislavova 1, MNárodní
třída, tel. 224 94 81 70, www.zlatecasy.cz. A perfectly
situated music club just off Lazarská, Zlaté časy is an excel-
lent destination as well as a place to while away the time till
your tram home. Steep stairs lead into the single roomed,
high-ceiled club, perfect for scoping out the talent at the bar
or on the dance floor. Music varies, but later, everyone bops
to Czech pop. Not bad prices either, 40Kč for a Pilsner Urquell.
Q Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 04:00,
Sat 16:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun.
Újezd A-4, Praha 1, Újezd 18, MNárodní třída, tel. 257
31 65 37, www.klubujezd.cz. Yes, the ambience is young,
shabby and hedonistic, but Újezd’s three floors and especially
the bizarre wrought iron sculptures are a tonic to eyes and ears.
Friendly staff and hot (most of them smoking) people throng
here any night for live music and/or DJs. The cellar is punk, and
upstairs is a more eclectic chill zone. Don’t bring your posh frock,
do bring some energy. QOpen 11:00 - 04:00. E
Gay Prague
Gay Prague is fairly up front; once you get beyond the
locked doors it seems anything goes, although it also goes
that various venues provide various levels of service and
quality. The number of HIV/AIDS sufferers in the Czech Re-
public is low, mainly due to the fact that this country was
closed until 1990, but times are changing and now, Prague
resembles a European Bangkok. Always be prepared and
practice safe sex. One of the most comprehensive online
Cafe and club where everything keeps its
own secret...
– Live DJ from Thursday to Saturday
– Premium drinks for the best prices!
– We take you home with luxurious Hummer H2
– Every Friday the special secret program!
prague.inyourpocket.com
NIGHTLIFE 61
sources is www.praguesaints.cz; other online sources
include www.feminismus.cz, www.arco-guesthouse.cz,
www.gaystay.cz and www.gayguide.net. A mainly Czech
language gay guide, Amigo, is available from the larger
tabaks and does have some listings in English.
Drake’s G-6, Praha 5, Zborovská 50, MAnděl, tel. 257
32 68 28, www.drakes.cz. THE place for tourists to discover
Prague’s gay scene. Non stop fun and games in the dark
rooms, bar or dungeon. Q Open 24hrs. Admission 500Kč.
Escape I-5, Praha 1, V jámě 8, MMůstek, tel. 606 11
11 77, frohna@atlas.cz, www.escapeprague.cz. Escape
has now provided six years of pleasure to its customers. Every
day sees solo strip and oil shows followed by the megastrip
featuring 12-16 lads. Fri & Sat has extra body painting and
live shows. You aren’t going to want to escape but if you do,
ask for their taxi service. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00.
Termix K-5, Praha 2, Třebízského 4a, MJiřího z
Poděbrad, tel. 222 71 04 62, www.club-termix.cz. The
newest club on the gay scene here and perhaps the way of
things to come as it’s for gays and lesbians. Shiny glass bar,
cushy sofas and dark rooms. QOpen 20:00 - 05:00.
The Saints K-5, Praha 2, Polská 32, MJiřího z Poděbrad,
tel. 222 25 03 26, www.saintsbar.cz. Young and good
looking, like their bar staff, the Saints bar adds a sinful option
to Prague’s gay scene. Small but perfectly formed, Saints
has adopted the early evening and late night position on
the gay day, as it were. To spice up life for everyone, these
wicked people have introduced Thursday lesbian nights to
their weekly line-up. Excellent chill out bar. Walkers Crisps and
Smirnoff Ice have coaxed the Brits in. Gambrinus 35Kč. Four
apartments available too. QOpen 19:00 - 04:00.
TOP SECRET CLUB
Masná 702/9, Praha 1
Café – open:
Monday – Sunday
08:00 – 22:00
Club – open:
Thursday – Saturday
22:00 – 05:00
www.topsecretclub.cz
info@topsecretclub.cz
April - May 2009
62 NIGHTLIFE
U Rudolfa I-5, Praha 1, Mezibrannská 3, MMuzeum, tel.
605 87 24 92. Highly recommended as the only gay beer hall
in Prague. It is loud, smoky, full of regulars and the only music
seems to be decades-old Czech and Slovak hits. English is not
the common language here. QOpen 16:00 - 02:00.
Valentino J-5, Praha 2, Vinohradská 40, MNám. Míru,
tel. 222 51 34 91, www.club-valentino.cz. A new star on
the Prague gay scene, Valentino has linked its street level
bar, cafe and cellar dance floor via a tunnel of love to the
dance floor and dark room of old Gej...zeer to provide three
floors of good atmosphere, lovely staff and kicking nights,
with weekends attracting a huge, pumping crowd. QOpen
14:00 - 05:00. Admission free. BEKP
Jazz
U Malého Glena B-3, Praha 1, Karmelitská 23,
MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 17 17, www.malyglen.cz.
Little Glen’s is, appropriately, a tiny venue downstairs from a
scrubbed wooden Irish-type bar, and hosts a wide spectrum
of local bands, with a particularly strong roster of jazz and
blues acts turning up regularly. You can book one of the 20
or so spots crammed in around the tables. QOpen 10:00
- 02:00. Admission Mon, Tue & Thu 120Kč; Wed, Fri & Sat
150Kč; Sun 70Kč. AEP
AghaRTA Jazz Centrum E-3, Praha 1, Železná 16,
MMůstek, tel. 222 21 12 75, info@agharta.cz, www.
agharta.cz. This beautiful arched medieval cellar is the per-
fect place to appreciate some of the very fine bands on the
Prague jazz circuit, cut with the odd night of heavy blues. Arrive
early to claim a seat at a table. There’s a jazz shop, where
they sell CDs including their own compilations of visiting talent.
QOpen 18:00 - 00:30. Concerts daily at 21:00. Admission
200Kč. Reservations via email only before 15:00. E
Akord I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 4, MNám. Republiky, tel. 774
10 10 91. New family-run jazz club in the requisite basement,
although this tubular cellar has been renovated into a clean cut
modern space. The lights dim when the local and international
line-up of jazz and blues names take the stage. Cool website
for this cool spot. CDs on sale plus art on the walls. Music from
21:00. Admission 200Kč. QOpen 19:00 - 01:00.
Blues Sklep D-3, Praha 1, Lilliová 10, MNárodní třída,
tel. 774 27 70 60, www.bluessklep.cz. Sklep means cel-
lar in Czech, and this is a true hewn-from-rock underground
experience - although it does have that ‘new’ edge to it
following complete reconstruction after the floods. A varied
roster of blues, jazz plus some deep funk stalwarts of and
newcomers to the scene play nightly. Ferdinand waters the
thirsty crowd for 25Kč. Admission 100Kč. Concerts begin at
21:00. QOpen 19:00 - 02:30.
Jazz Boat D-1, Praha 1, Čechův most, Kotva boat,
MStaroměstská, tel. 731 18 31 80, www.jazzboat.cz.
Take a musical journey on the low seas of the Vltava. The Jazz
Boat sets sail each evening from Čechův most and for only
590Kč you’re afforded a two and a half hour cruise around
Prague to the accompaniment of excellent jazz performed
by some of the city’s finest musicians. A bar and restaurant
are also at your disposal, but their services are not included
in the bill. It’s best to arrive early to get good seats. QOpen
20:30 - 23:00. AEGBK
Reduta D-4, Praha 1, Národní 20, MNárodní třída, tel.
224 93 34 87, www.redutajazzclub.cz. Founded in 1958,
Reduta was the first real venue for Czech rock and roll, play-
ing smuggled Elvis records. Reduta has not changed much
Prague In Your Pocket
since then; don’t come for the brown 1980s interior or the
uncomfortable bench seating; Reduta still brings in quality
performers and even attracts a president or two. Václav Havel
has brought Bill Clinton here twice now, and yes, he did play
his sax. QOpen 21:00 - 24:00. EP
Ungelt Jazz & Blues Club E-2, Praha 1, Týnská ulička
2, MNám. Republiky, tel. 224 89 57 48, www.jazzblues.
cz. Wander to the pub upstairs, and you’ll be pleasantly sur-
prised by the cheerful atmosphere and cheap drinks. Go down
the stairs and you descend into the more expected territory
of clinging onto your cash for dear life, though it does host
some good bluesy jazz. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00; club open
20:00 - 02:00. Admission free.
U Staré paní H-4, Praha 1, Michalská 9, MMůstek, tel.
603 55 16 80, www.jazzlounge.cz. An elevated stage, a
fancy Petrov grand piano and a regular schedule of quality,
contemporary jazz make U Staré paní a favourite venue for
Prague’s serious jazz aficionado, local, expatriate and tourist
alike. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. PAEG
Pubs
J.J.Murphy’s A-2, Praha 1, Tržiště 4, MMalostranská, tel.
257 53 55 75, www.jjmurphys.cz. Don’t worry, they also have
Guinness. If you pine for the days when you could enjoy a pint, a
good meal and your favourite sporting event without screaming
Englishmen in dresses working on their 20th beer, then belly up
to this Irish bar. Watch live sport from one of the sofas in the attic
lounge or have a proper breakfast with pudding or a real American
burger on the ground floor. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. AK
Malostranská pivnice C-2, Praha 1, Cihelná 3,
MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 00 32, www.malostran-
skapivnice.cz. A Pilsner Urquell restaurant serving the
flagship 12° brew for just 30Kč, with Kozel on tap and a large,
sunny and shady courtyard complete with weeping willow
makes this a super stop for liquid and solid sustenance on
the tourist trail. Inside, TVs draw crowds for sporting events,
while the presence of locals and the friendly multi-lingual
staff keep standards high. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
11:00 - 01:00. (120 - 600Kč). B
Caffrey’s E-3, Praha 1, Staroměstské nám. 10,
MStaroměstská, tel. 224 82 80 31, www.caffreys.
cz. Good service and a great location on Staromětské nám.
make this a popular Irish pub for many, including large par-
ties of stag nighters. Old Town prices are justified by their
excellent food menu (try the authentic Irish breakfast), first
rate Guinness, Bulmer’s cider, Walker’s crisps and more to
make you feel right at home. A good venue to watch all the
major (GAA too) sporting events. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sat
09:00 - 02:00. PABK
George & Dragon E-2, Praha 1, Staroměstské nám. 11,
MStaroměstská, tel. 222 32 61 37. A British pub landed
slap bang in the middle of Old Town Square. TV screens, a big
screen and footy shirts line the walls so it won’t remind you of
the country outside. Good food, including an all day breakfast
with the atmosphere you want to see your team play and win,
with any luck. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. ABK
Molly Malone’s E-2, Praha 1, U Obecního dvora 4,
MNám. Republiky, tel. 224 81 88 51, www.mollyma-
lones.cz. A quiet, nicely downbeat Irish pub. Odds and ends
of bashed about furniture clutter the scrubbed wooden floors
making it a perfect oasis for fairly well-heeled slumming. Take
your time contemplating the excellent menu over some cider
or a Guinness. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. AKPU
prague.inyourpocket.com
NIGHTLIFE 63
Rocky O’Reilly’s I-5, Praha 1, Štěpánská 32,
MMůstek, tel. 222 23 10 60, www.rockyoreillys.cz.
Photos of prestigious poets and pubs, Guinness on draught
and an ‘O’ in its name all meet the criteria for a classic Irish
watering hole. Other perks include hearty portions of inter-
national food including a huge Irish breakfast served anytime,
Sky Sports broadcast on several TVs and wait staff that can
easily draw your attention away from the football. QOpen
10:00 - 01:00. AKP
Sherlock’s Pub D-4, Praha 1, Bartolomějská 11,
MNárodní třída, tel. 226 21 19 39, www.sherlock-
spub.cz. This split level pub with somewhat authentic
feel, paintings all over the walls and small courtyard is
the Prague location for the Ostrava original. Part sport
bar, part cocktail bar and part pub, Sherlock’s has many
stairs, plays some terrible tunes but has a good kitchen
which is open till 03:00. Staropramen costs, strangely,
more that Stella and drink specials at weekends will
make those stairs more di fficul t… Q Open 17:00 -
04:00. BK
Tlustá koala F-3, Praha 1, Senovážná 1394/8, MNám.
Republiky, tel. 222 24 54 01. The Fat Koala boasts (if
that’s the word) Foster’s lager, but everything else is more
international than Aussie. With 11 beers on tap and more
in bottles, this place is a dream and prices (Staropramen
31Kč) are not that high considering its location. Two floors
of pub ambience and private rooms keep people lingering
long after the hearty meals have been sufficiently washed
down. QOpen 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 15:00 - 04:00. (100 -
800Kč). AKP
U Zlatého tygra D-3, Praha 1, Husova 17,
MStaroměstská, tel. 222 22 11 11, www.uzlateho-
tygra.cz. Havel took Bill Clinton here to demonstrate Czech
drinking culture (and let’s face it, if there’s one thing Havel Sport bars
knows, it’s his booze). Get there by opening time to have Legends F-2, Praha 1, Týn 1, MStaroměstská, tel. 224
any chance of getting in. The Pilsner brewery makes special 89 54 04, www.legends.cz. Twenty, count ‘em, twenty TVs
deliveries here - the beer is pumped directly into the large plus two plasma screens and a private room for your viewing
tanks below the bar. A national institution. QOpen 15:00 - pleasure in this bastion of expat sport bars. An excellent menu
23:00. K features great burgers and the ever-popular hangover-busting
breakfast. Descend into this sleek cellar for a maul to rival
Vysmátý zajíc E-3, Praha 1, Michalská 13, that on the screens on any given Saturday, Wednesday,
MStaroměstská, tel. 224 21 69 99, www.vysmaty- Sunday... Popular with visiting celebs too. QOpen , Mon,
zajic.cz. The Happy Rabbit’s vast warren of rooms constitute Tue, Wed, Sun 11:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00.
the home of a Czech pub, music club, restaurant, garden and (100 - 400Kč). AEK
internet café. Work up a hunger in the cellar club and enjoy
their menu until 05:00. A decent deal for its Old Town location. The Beer Factory I-5, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 58,
QOpen 11:00 - 05:00. PAUBK MMůstek, tel. 736 63 08 68. Down see-through steps
(which could make things hallucinogenic later on…) is this
Martin’s Irish Pub I-6, Praha 2, Lublaňská 57, MI.P. industrial-looking and functional, as the name suggests, beer
Pavlova, tel. 222 51 81 17. This is an Irish bar for locals who factory. Well located and easily locatable by the square’s
crave the beer and atmosphere of the Emerald Isle without landmark statue, this beer hall’s cavernous space should
the English-speakers. The menu lists Czech-style international be packed daily - just look at those opening hours. Taps at
dishes and some of the cheapest Guinness in town at 59Kč. your table serve Pilsner Urquell (at 39Kč) while mix drinks,
It’s probably also the only pub of its genre to offer Kung Pao coffee and hearty Czech dishes are served up by the staff.
pork and only one TV. Odd, yet refreshing. QOpen 11:30 - TVs offer music and sport. QOpen 09:00 - 04:00. (150 -
24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. BKP 350Kč). PK
Merlin J-6, Praha 2, Bělehradská 68a, MI.P. Pavlova, The Pack I-5, Praha 1, Ve Smečkách 21, MMuzeum,
tel. 222 52 20 54, http://merlin-pub.hyperlink.cz. tel. 222 21 02 80, www.thepack.cz. Tailor made for its
Merlin the magician shares brick wall space with Guinness fans with scantily clad waitresses, flat screen TVs in every
posters and other emblems of Irishness, intermingled room, Guinness and Strongbow (90/85Kč) on tap, a full
with antique agricultural contraptions. The long bar re- English breakfast with Heinz beans, and opening hours to
sembles that of an authentic pub and the sofas add to cater for sports from all continents. A higher class of pub food
the laid-back feel. The lower level houses the restaurant, is also available from wings (150Kč) and burgers (250Kč) to
which serves the usual options with more than a dash of the massive double filet mignon (950Kč). Gambrinus 55Kč.
a varied Mexican menu. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun Q Open Mon & Fri 09:00 - 02:00; Tue - Thu 12:00 - 02:00;
15:00 - 24:00. K Sat, Sun 06:30 - 02:00. JAK
prague.inyourpocket.com April - May 2009
64 PRAGUE CASTLE THE ESSENTIALS 65

St. Vitus Cathedral (Kat- The essentials of Prague - if you see nothing else, do not to the attacks on Soviet tanks with Molotov cocktails in
edrála svatého Víta) miss these sights. Obviously in this city that has been a 1968. Towering above the square, half-hidden behind a row
Moving into the third courtyard destination for hundreds of years, there is much to see of houses, is the fairy-turreted Týn Church. The centrepiece
of the castle you’ll face one of Eu- and do, and one of the most enjoyable aspects is just of the square is a memorial to Jan Hus. It was draped in
rope’s great Gothic cathedrals. wandering around. Don’t forget to look up as the gilded swastikas by the Nazis and in black cloth to mourn the passing
St. Vitus is the spiritual heart of spires are rightfully what Prague is renowned for. But keep of the Prague Spring.
the nation as the mausoleum of an eye of the ground too - dog owners are not renowned
Bohemian kings and the city’s for their cleaning-up ability. Town Hall & Astronomi-
greatest landmark. Work on the cal clock (Staromest-
present cathedral was started in Charles Bridge (Karlův ská radnice) E-3, Praha
1344 but it wasn’t consecrated most) C-3, Praha 1, 1, Star oměstské nám.,
until 1929. Check out Mucha’s MStaroměstská. Karlův MStaroměstská. The 14th
stained glass window and the most joins Staré Město (Old centur y Town Hall complex
door with seven locks leading Town) and the Malá Strana features a tower with an as-
to the crown jewels. Don’t miss (Little Quarter) and is one of tronomical clock, added in the
The largest collection of wonders in the city, Prague castle the beautiful mosaic depicting the Last Judgment of Christ on the the world’s most beau tiful 15th century. Every hour on the
is an amalgamation of architecture from different periods. exterior of the cathedral. The mosaic is 84 square metres and bridges. The bridge was built hour Jesus and his disciples
From the almost pastoral serenity of St. George’s Basilica, was created in 1371. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. in 1357, but the figures of saints were added during the lead a pageant that includes
to the awe-inspiring Gothic power of St. Vitus Cathedral, 17th century. They symbolise the confidence of the Catholic the allegorical figures of Death,
the castle has attractions for all - history and architecture Old Royal Palace (Starý královský palác) . One of the Austrian’s triumph over the Protestant Hussites. The bridge is the Turk, the Miser, the Fool
plus marching soldiers and entertainment. oldest and most impressive parts of the castle, the Old Royal thronged all day with tourists, while at night it offers wonderful and the Rooster. It sounds
Palace dates from 1135 and was the seat of Bohemian princes. views of the illuminated castle and Old Town. Go at dawn to be more impressive than it actu-
Approach & Entry A-1, Praha 1, Hradčany, tel. 224 37 From the 13th to the 16th century it was the king’s palace. The alone and witness the saints emerging from the mist. ally is, but it’s still worth a look.
33 68, www.hrad.cz. There are two information centres, magnificent Vladislav Hall was used for banquets, councils, The climb or lift up the tower
one in the second courtyard and one in the third. Here you coronations and even jousting. All presidents have been sworn Municipal House (Obec- is rewarded by the stunning views. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00,
can find out what time the changing of the guard takes place, in here, and this building was where the 1618 defenestration ní Dům) F-3, Praha 1, nám. Mon 11:00 - 18:00. Admission 60/40Kč.
buy tickets and get audio guides. took place. The palace contains The Story of Prague Castle Republiky 5, MNám. Re-
There are four ways to approach the castle. By far the best exhibition. Don’t forget to have a look at the Rampart Gardens publiky, tel. 222 00 21 27, Vyšehrad H-7, Praha 2,
way is to take tram N°22 to the Pohořelec stop, where you start below. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Admission 120/60Kč. w w w.obecnidum.cz. The Soběslavova 1, MVyšehrad.
with breathtaking views of Prague from Strahov Monastery; magnificent Obecní Dům build- Th e rock y cli ff-top boasts
then walk down through beautiful Hradčanská district along Golden Lane (Zlatá ing holds two restaurants, Prague’s second castle. In
Loretánská towards the main castle entrance on Hradčanské ulička) The phrase ‘pic- a super café, an American the hearts and minds of many
náměstí. You can skip the Hradčanská walk by getting off the turesque street’ might have bar, a gallery, shop and clas- Czechs, Vyšehrad symbolises
tram earlier, at the Pražský hrad stop, from where you enter been invented to describe sical music venue. Built between 1905 and 1910 in the the birth of the Czech nation
the second courtyard. Alternatively, walk up Nerudova and the this tiny cobbled lane with its architecturally stunning Art Nouveau style, the Municipal and is shrouded in legend and
steep hill from Malostranské náměstí. The worst approach is miniature workers’ cottages House has been painstakingly restored to its former glory. myth. This is apparently the
up the Staré zámecké schody steps near Malostranská metro - now shops. It was on this It was here that the Czechoslovakian state was signed into spot where Princess Libuše
station; these are best kept for the way down. Q Buildings & street, or so legend has it, being on October 28, 1918. It was also here in 1989 that stood and predicted the rise of
Info: From 1 November - 31 March: open 09:00 - 16:00. Court- that 16th-century alchemists communist bureaucrats and revolution leaders of the Civic a great city. Literally translated
yards (admission free) open 06:00 - 23:00. Castle gardens laboured to discover the Philosopher’s Stone to make gold Forum discussed the velvet transfer of power and the state’s as ‘high castle’, it was probably
and Jelení příkop are closed. From 1 April - 31 October: open from lead. Franz Kafka spent evenings at his sister’s house, transformation to democracy. founded in the middle of the
09:00 - 18:00. Courtyards (admission free) open 05:00 - 24:00. N°22. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. 10th century. In 972 Prince
Castles gardens and Jeleni prikop 10:00 - 18:00. Admission National Theatre (Národ- Boleslav II built the royal mint here, and in 1085 Vratislav
to the Old Royal Palace, St. George’s Basilica, Powder Tower, Daliborka Tower Built in 1496 and used as a prison till the ní divadlo) C-4, Národní 2, II selected it as his residence. Over the following centuries
Picture Gallery and Golden Lane: 350Kč (long tour.) Cathedral, end of 18th century, the tower stands on your left as you exit the MNárodní třída, tel. 224 successive kings remodelled the palace and fortress, but
Old Royal Palace, St. George’s Basilica and Golden Lane: 250Kč Golden Lane. It is so named for its first prisoner, Dalibor of Kozojedy, 90 14 48. This lavish neo- moved their permanent home across the river. Within the
(short tour.) Reductions for families. whose story was told by Smetana in his 1868 opera Dalibor. The Renaissance building on the fortress confines is the national cemetery (Vyšehradský
underground cell is truly terrifying. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. bank of the Vltava, with its hřbitov), which from the 1870s became the final resting place
Sternberg Palace (Šternberský palác) Hradčanské golden crown of chariot-driving of many of the most famous Czech writers and composers,
nám. 15. Sharing an entrance with the Archbishop’s Palace Royal Gardens & Stag Moat (Královská zahrada) women, is Prague’s National including Jan Neruda, Bedřich Smetana and Antonín Dvořák.
is the Šternberský palác from 1698. It’s part of the National North of the castle walls are a succession of orderly and Theatre. The building was completed in 1881 and was QOpen 09:30 - 17:30.
Gallery and home to a collection of European art, including manicured gardens. They were first laid out in 1534 and are almost immediately destroyed by fire. It reopened in 1883.
Rubens and Rembrandt. In 1991 thieves stole US$2.6 million home to the Míčovna or Ball Game Hall, the most ornate See Events for the current programme. We n c e s l a s S q u a r e
worth of Picassos. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. sports centre we’ve ever seen. Further along the eastern (Václavské náměstí )
edge of the castle area you can find the Renaissance summer O l d To w n S q u a r e F-4, Praha 1, Václavské
First courtyard Pause at the castle gates to admire the palace (Královský letohrádek), where Europe’s first tulips, a (Staroměstské nám., MMůstek. Václavské
soldiers’ uniforms (designed by the wardrobe designer of the present from Turkey, were cultivated. The views over the náměstí) E-3, Praha 1, náměstí is actually a boule-
film Amadeus), and hopefully see the changing of the guard. castle and city are great from here. MStaroměstská. The indis- vard running down from the
Then move into the courtyard flanking the presidential rooms, The Stag Moat (Jelení příkop, open 09:00 - 16:00) below the putable heart of Prague. This National Museum and the
which are not open to the public. These are numerous and ramparts of the castle was reopened to the general public by vast open space is flanked by equestrian statue of Saint
include the Spanish Hall, once the venue for meetings of the President Vaclav Havel. Despite the name there hasn’t been a a pleasing blend of carefully Wenceslas to Můstek, former-
Czechoslovak Communist Party. As you walk through the stag here since ravenous soldiers gobbled up the last of them restored architectural styles: ly the site of a city gate and drawbridge. This is where crowds
archway, the steps on your right are where many of the official by the 17th century. The gardens on the southern side of the Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque traditionally come to demonstrate against their incompetent
greetings are made to visiting heads of state. castle can be entered via steps to the right of the main castle and neo-styles. The square is rulers, and this was where, in 1989, thousands gathered to
gate. The main garden on the southern side is the ramparts notable for its constant hum of shake their keys in celebration of the death of the Communist
Second courtyard Reconstructed by Empress Maria garden (Zahrada Na Valech), which overlooks Malá Strana. The activity, day and night, and a Party. Rows of shops, hotels (note the Art Nouveau glory of
Theresa, this courtyard acts as an intersection point for Rampart Gardens are bordered to the west by the Paradise long history as centre stage for Hotel Europa) and nightclubs flank the pavements, and by
two of the entrances into the castle. You can exit under the Garden (Rajská zahrada) and on the south to the Hartig Garden so many of the city’s defining night it can get a bit sleasy. Thankfully, there are plans to rid
archway to reach the Stag Moat, Royal Gardens and trams (Hartigovská zahrada), which surrounds the Music Pavilion moments, from the execution the square of cars, bury the highway in front of the museum in
N°22 and 23. (Hudební pavilon).QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed in winter of preacher J. Želivský in 1422, a tunnel and have tram N°11 make a come-back.

Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com April - May 2009

66 WHAT TO SEE WHAT TO SEE 67

Churches
Bethlehem Chapel
(Betlémská Kaple)
D-3, Praha 1, Betlémské
náměstí, MStaroměstská.
From 1402 to 1412, Jan Hus
preached at the Bethlehem
Chapel, hence it’s significance
for non-Catholics, but in 1622,
the Jesuits took control of the
chapel and Catholic mass
became the service of the day.
Then in 1786 it was levelled,
only to be rebuilt (somewhat
strangely) by the communists,
who had preserved its archi-
tectural plans in 1950. Apparently, they were keen to exploit
ithe chapel’s symbolism as an historic emblem of Czech
national pride. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon.
Church of Our Lady Victorious B-3, Praha 1, Karmel-
itská 9, MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 36 46, www.
prag-jesu.info. This house of worship was built by German
Lutherans between 1611-1615. To the right of the entrance
is a commemorative site to the 16th century Spanish nun,
St. Therese of Avila, who along with friar John of the Cross,
reformed the Carmelite order into what is known as the
Discalced Carmelites. Further inside is the church’s claim
to fame, a 45cm high wax statuette of Jesus known as the
Infant Jesus of Prague, which is a pilgrimage site of sorts -
for its historical and religious importance, and a couple of
unnamed miracles that have been attached to it. QOpen
08:30 - 19:00, Sun 08:30 - 20:00.
Loreta A-1, Praha 1, Loren-
tánské nám. 7. One of the
country’s most famous places
of pilgrimage, this chapel is
just a quick walk from the
main entrance to the castle.
Buil t between 1626-1720,
this Baroque building contains,
among other icons and objects,
a painting of a bearded lady,
ornate friezes, bejewelled icons
and a high quota of chubby-
cheeked cherubs. The small
museum also houses a col-
lection of diamond ostensories. Within the main chapel there
Tourist information
Around Prague Information Centre E-3, Praha
1, Celetná 14, MStaroměstská, tel. 224 49 17
64/224 49 17 22, www.aroundprague.cz. Tickets,
accommodation, sightseeing tours, guidebooks, maps
and more. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
Prague Info E-3, Praha 1, Staroměstské nám. 1,
(Old Town Hall), MStaroměstské, www.prague-info.
cz. This excellent official tourist information centre pro-
vides vocal and written information in various languages
from helpful and knowledgeable staff, plus tickets, excur-
sions, and accommodation. For general information in
English, Czech or German call tel. 124 44. QOpen 09:00
- 19:30. Also at I-3, Praha hlavní nádraží & B-2, Praha 1,
Malá Strana Tower, open 10:00 - 18:00.
is the brickwork supposedly from the original Loreto in Italy
which was flown over from Italy by some well-meaning angels.
Blasphemers take note - the split in the wall was supposedly
caused by a thunderbolt fired off at one of your kind. Q Open
09:00 - 12:15, 13:00 - 16:30. Admission 110/90Kč.
Our Lady of Snow (U
Panny Marie Sněžné) E-4,
Praha 1, Jungmannovo nám,
MMůstek. Th e towerin g
Gothic torso hidden near Vá-
clavské náměstí was started
off in 1347 by Charles IV as
a Carmelite order monastery.
Construction was stopped by the Hussites in 1419, and only
the 34m-high choir of the planned 110m-long church was
finished. The Franciscans renovated the ruins of the church in
1604, adding the magnificent Renaissance altar. The peace-
ful adjacent monastery gardens (Františkánská zahrada) are
an excellent place to soak up the sun.
St. Ignatius Church (Kostel Sv. Ignáce) H-5, Praha
2, Ječná 2, MKarlovo náměstí, tel. 224 92 12 54. The
construction of what was intended to be a basilica began in
1665 on these very grounds. In 1671 the church alongside
Karlovo Square was finally completed and the large statue of
Saint Ignatius, the founder of the Jesuit order, was placed on
top. The church is still active and run by Jesuit monks.
St. Nicholas Church B-2,
Praha1, Malostranské nám.
38, MMalostranská, tel.
224 19 09 91. Construction
of this Baroque pile began in
1673, but it would be nearly
another 80 years until the
Jesui ts completed i t. Peer
closely at the copper statue
of St. Nicholas above the gold
coated altar; the two statues
below him are of St. Ignatius
Loyola and St. Francis Xavier.
The ceiling fresco depicts
the apotheosis of St. Nicholas. Also of interest is the organ,
which has 2500 pipes and 44 registers, and it was these very
ivories that Mozart tinkled on his visit to Prague. QOpen
10:00 - 17:00. Admission 70/50Kč.
Strahov Monastery Praha
1, Strahovské nádvoří 1,
tel. 233 10 77 18, www.
strahovskyklaster.cz. The
Strahov Monastery has stood
on the approach to the castle
since 1140. Today, this Ro-
manesque monastery houses
various museums for religious
arts and is home to the quite
stunning central chapel. The
Museum of Czech Literature
(open 09:00 - 12:00; 13:00 -
17:00, admission 50Kč), is housed in the monastic libraries.
The Theological and Philosophical Halls are superb but
can only be viewed from the doorways. Items available for
closer inspection are manuscripts from the 14th century, a
stuffed dodo, and a large collection of crabs, fish, shells and
insects. The Strahov Gallery in the central courtyard (open
09:00 - 17:00, admission 35Kč) has one of the finest collec-
tions of monastic art in Central Europe. Trams N°22,23 to
Pohořelec. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 60/40Kč.
Sts. Cyril and Methodius Church H-5, Praha 1,
Resslova 9, MKarlovo náměstí, tel. 224 92 06 86.
This Orthodox church was built in honour of Sts. Cyril and
Methodius, the men responsible for the Slavonic alphabet.
However, most people know about this church because of
what happened here at 04:10 on the morning of June 18,
1942 when the Nazis had discovered that the seven Czech
parachutists involved in the assassination of Reichsprotektor
Heydrich were hiding in the crypt. The west side of Karlovo
náměstí was cordoned off by 800 troops from the SS and the
Gestapo. Three of the soldiers died as the SS stormed the
church. The remaining four fought on. After hours of shoot-
ing and a long stand-off which led to the Germans deciding
to literally flush them out, they used their last bullets on
each other. The bullet-scarred exterior wall holds a plaque in
honour of their bravery. Q Crypt open 10:00 - 17:00; Sun
12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
Museums & Galleries
City Museum (Muzeum hlavního města Prahy)
B-3, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 52, tel. 224 81 67 72, www.
muzeumprahy.cz. This homage to the city of a hundred
spires includes a paper model of the city that took 11 years
to create and a gigantic model of the entire city at the begin-
ning of the 19th century. This wood and paper model was
made from 1829-1837 by Antonin Langweil and is a highlight
to the museum. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admis-
sion 110/40Kč.
Cubism Museum F-3, Praha 1, Ovocný trh 19, MNám.
Republiky, tel. 224 21 17 46, www.ngprague.cz. The
angular grace of 1920s cubism is apparent in the minimalist
and abstract lines of the sculptures, paintings, furniture,
ceramics and architecture on show at this small but de-
lightful museum. Cubism in the Czech Republic permeated
all aspects of design, applied arts and graphics, which is
beautifully illustrated by the variety of exhibits. The House
at the Black Madonna, which houses the museum, was built
in 1911 as a department store and is itself a monument
to Cubism. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission
100/50Kč.
Czech Museum of Fine Arts (České muzeum výt-
varných umění v Praze) D-3, Praha 1, Husova 19 - 21,
tel. 222 22 02 18, www.cmvu.cz. Large collection of fine
arts including classics and more modern works. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50Kč.
Decorative Arts Museum (UpM) D-2, Praha 1, 17.
listopadu 2, tel. 251 09 31 35, www.upm.cz. Basically,
this is a museum of stuff. Its permanent exhibit showcases
what normal articles (clocks, ceramics, glass, clothing, pho-
tographs, furniture) from the 19th-20th century. You won’t
bump into philosopher Emmanuel Kant here; he believed that
an esthetic object is only art if it has no use (he’s also long
dead). Built in 1899 in commemoration of Franz Josef becom-
ing emperor, the building itself is impressive, too. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 80/40Kč. A
DOX Centre for Contemporary Art Praha 7, Osadní
34, tel. 224 93 09 27, info@doxprague.org, www.dox-
prague.org. Opened in October 2008; DOX is sure to make a
splash on Prague’s still burgeoning contemporary art scene.
The building itself is amazing - a mix of old metal factory and
new build right in the heart of industrial Holešovice. Organizers
plan to showcase present contemporary art from around the
world; as well as offer exposure to Czech contemporary artists.
QOpen , Mon, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00, Wed, Thu, Fri 11:00 -
19:00. Closed Tue. Adults: 120kč, Children: 80kč.
Dvořák Museum I-6, Praha 2, Ke Karlovu 20, tel. 224
92 33 63, www.nm.cz. The Dvořák Museum is housed
in the so-called Villa America, a Baroque summer palace
designed by Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer, who was also respon-
sible for the beautiful St. Nicholas Church in Malá Strana. This
museum houses a good collection of memorobilia from the
life and work of Dvořák, the Czech composer famous for the
New World Symphony, among others. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 40Kč.
Futura Praha 5, Holečkova 49, MAnděl, tel. 251 51
18 04, www.futuraproject.com. This non-profit gallery
was opened in June 2003 to provide an accessible space
for contemporary art. Three floors of a renovated factory.
Tram 4, 7, 9, 10 to Bertramka. Q Open Wed - Sun 11:00
- 18:00.
Galerie Jaroslava Fragnera D-4, Praha 1, Betlémské
náměstí 5a, tel. 222 22 21 57, www.g jf.cz. An exhibition
hall showcasing, for the most part, the artistic elements
of architecture. The gallery works in partnership with the
Czech Architecture Foundation and exhibits fine examples
of groundbreaking Czech and international architectural
marvels. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission
40/20.
Galerie La Femme E-2, Praha 1, Bílkova 2,
MStaroměstská, tel. 224 81 26 56, www.glf.cz. A
small but fully laden gallery celebrating woman as eternal
inspiration, although the myriad pieces hanging, stacked
or free standing have subjects beyond women. Vibrant oils,
tactile sculptures, evocative sketches, international exhibi-
tions and more make La Femme a place to explore and buy.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Galerie MIRO Praha 1, Strahovské nádvoří 1, tel. 233
35 40 66, www.galeriemiro.cz. In St. Rocha Church and
host to contemporary and classical artists including Goya,
Dalí, Chagnall, Warhol and Picasso. A privately owned gal-
lery and on the tourist trail between the castle and Strahov
monastery. Tram N°22 or 23 to Pohořelec. QOpen 10:00
- 17:00.
Galerie Václava Špály Praha 1, Národní 30,
MMůstek, tel. 224 94 67 38, www.spalovka.cz. The
Galerie Václava Špály is once again open to the public and
promising the same prestigious exhibitions it was once
renowned for. Špála was a Czech avant-garde painter from
the early 20th century. The museum’s heyday was in the
late 60’s-early 70’s, and again after 1989. The beginning
of the new century saw a change in management and
vision. Now, it’s back and the art scene will be richer for
it. Expect a wide-variety of contemporary art from both
foreign and local artists. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 20/10Kč.
Gallery KusKovu J-3, Praha 1, Biskupský dvůr 6,
MNám. Republiky, tel. 737 20 01 27, www.kuskovu.cz.
The Piece of Metal gallery is a blacksmith’s delight, showing
and selling metal sculptures, objects and jewellery. QOpen
13:00 - 20:00, Sat 13:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Historical Museum A-1, Praha 1, Pražský hrad, Jiřská
3, tel. 257 53 59 79, www.nm.cz. Lobkovický Palac,
in the castle area, dates back to the 9th century and the
origins of the castle itself. The palace, which was restored
during the Renaissance, now houses the Historical Museum,
which, as its name implies, gives a detailed history of the
country until 1848. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 40Kč.

Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com April - May 2009

68 WHAT TO SEE
Jewish Prague
Prague’s Jewish community was one of the oldest in
Europe, and rich in history, legend and tragedy. Here, the
story goes, Rabbi Loew created the Golem nearly half a
millennium ago.
The community was confined to a ghetto until 1781
when Josef II issued the Edict of Tolerance, which per-
mitted the free exercise of religion and the secularisation
of education, science and art. The Jewish town is called
Josefov to this day in his honour.
From the 1880s, in the name of slum-clearing, most
of Josefov was razed to the ground and only a few
synagogues, the cemetery and the Josefov town hall
remained. Wide new streets with grand Art Nouveau
buildings emerged in place of the decrepit old tenement
buildings.
Later still, the Nazis all but annihilated Prague’s Jewish
legacy, saving the monuments as their planned epitaph
to a vanished culture. The post-war communists did little
to alleviate the persecution - many of the remaining Jew-
ish inhabitants chose to emigrate.
Jewish Museum (Židovské muzeum) E-2, Praha
1, U Staré školy 1, tel. 221 71 15 62, www.jewishmu-
seum.cz. The starting point for an exploration of Prague’s
Jewish past and present. Unfortunately, the idea for a
museum encompassing the Jewish Quarter is not new.
The reason that the main buildings and cemetery in the
Jewish Quarter are still intact, is that Hitler intended to
transform the quarter into an epitaph to a vanished culture.
The Jewish Museum supervises the Old Jewish Cemetery,
the Old Ceremonial Hall, and the Pinkas, Klausen, Maisel
and Spanish Synagogues, but not the Old New Synagogue,
although you can buy a combined ticket for entry to all. The
high admission price causes many budget-conscious visi-
tors turn away at the gates, but despite this, you’ll need to
go early to avoid the crowds. QOpen 09:00 - 16:30. Closed
Sat. Admission 300/200Kč for all sights.
Klausen Synagogue (Klausenová synagoga) D-2,
Praha 1, U Starého hřbitova 3A. A Judaic Baroque build-
ing which houses a permanent exhibition showing Jewish
customs and traditions - and the occasional art exhibition.
Next door is the Ceremonial Hall.
Maisel Synagogue (Maiselova synagoga) E-2, Praha
1, Maiselova 10. Maisel Synagogue is home to a large collec-
tion of silverware, previously confiscated from Jewish families
by the Nazis. Their permanent exhibition, The History of Jews
in Bohemia and Moravia, is definitely worth a visit.
Pinkas Synagogue (Pinkasova synagoga) D-2,
Praha 1, Široká 3. The walls inside Pinkas Synagogue
are chillingly covered with the names of 77,297 Jewish
Holocaust victims from Bohemia and Moravia. There is also
a permanent exhibition of children’s drawings from Terezin
concentration camp, drawn between 1942 and 1944.
Old Jewish Cemetery (Starý židovský hřbitov)
D-2, Praha 1, Široká 2, (entrance from Pinkas Syna-
gogue). From the 14th century until 1747, this was the final
resting place for Prague’s Jewish community; some 12,000
graves are said to be piled one on top of the other. Oldest
and most famous is that of Rabbi Loew, which is the grave
with the most pebbles piled on top of it - a Jewish tradition.
To visit the cemetery, men will have to cover their heads;
kippas are provided at the entrance.
Prague In Your Pocket
Spanish Synagogue (Španělská synagoga) E-2,
Praha 1, Dušní 12. This neo-Moorish structure was
built in 1868 to replace the previously demolished Old
Synagogue. It is a beautiful building outside and in, with a
domed ceiling, Islamic motifs and stained glass. Restored
in 1998, the synagogue houses an exhibition on the history
of Czech Jews.
Old New Synagogue (Staronová synagoga) E-2,
Praha 1, Červená 2. Of all the synagogues in Prague, this
is perhaps the most important. It has stood here since
the 13th century, and despite fires, floods and the Nazi
occupation, remains today the functional, spiritual centre
of the Jewish community. QOpen 09:00 - 16:30, Fri 09:00
- 14:00. Closed Sat. Admission 200Kč.
High Synagogue (Vysoká synagoga) E-2, Praha 1,
Červená 4. The High Synagogue is no longer open to the
public. It is next to the Old New Synagogue - note the clock
on the façade of the pink building next door; it has Hebrew
numbers and turns counter-clockwise.
New Jewish Cemetery (Židovské hřbitovy) Praha
3, Vinohradská, MŽelivského, tel. 272 74 18 93. Much
larger and much less visited than the Old Town Cemetery.
Founded in 1890, it has some impressive graves from the
early 1900s. Franz Kafka is buried at grave N°137.
Žižkov Jewish Ceme-
tery Prague 3, Fibichova.
Only a peaceful small corner
remains of this Jewish cem-
etary at the foot of the TV
tower. Originally a plague
cemetary established well
away from the city limits in
1680, 40,000 people were
buried here until 1890. Baroque, Empire and Romantic
style tombstones survived the ages. Q Open Tue & Thu
09:00 - 13:00. Admission 20Kč.
Jubilee Synagogue (Jubilejní synagoga) I-4,
Praha 1, Jeruzalémská 1310/7, tel. 222 31 90 02.
The newest, big gest, and arguably most spectacular
of Prague’s synagogues, the Jubilee Synagogue is so
called because it was decided upon on the 50th an-
niversar y of the accession of Franz Joseph I. Built in
pseudo-Moorish style and dedicated on 16 Sept 1906
during the festival of Simhat Torah, the synagogue
has a ser vice on Sat at 09:00 and is open to visi-
tors from 23 Apr - 31 Oct from 13:00 - 17:00 (except
Saturdays).
Prague’s Schindler Three trainloads of Jewish
children were able to escape from German-occupied
Prague in the spring and summer of 1939, before war
broke out, thanks to the effor ts of the man dubbed
(post-Spielberg, of course) the Schindler of Prague. Bill
Barazetti, together with a British stockbroker, arranged
papers and transport for three trainloads of children -
the Kindertransporte - to leave the city and travel via
the Netherlands to safety in London. A fourth train left
Prague on the eve of the war but it never reached the
Netherlands and was not heard of again. In August 1939
Barazetti fled to Britain, but it was 50 years before his
story became known.
prague.inyourpocket.com
House at the White Unicorn (Dům u bílého
jednorožce) E-3, Praha 1, Staromestské nám. 15,
MStaroměstská, tel. 222 31 39 09, www.daliexhibi-
tion.cz. This central exhibition space caters to the big
names, and not only in Czech art. Much to the delight
of the world’s moustache aficionados, this house is
exhibiting a selection of graphics, sculpture and pottery
from Salvador Dali. Another area is dedicated to Alfons
Mucha, the master of Art Nouveau while a neighbour-
ing house (E-3, Praha 1, Celetná 9, tel. 222 31 30 64)
hosts a selection of images from the infamous photog-
rapher Jan Saudek. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00. Admission
150/70Kč. Saudek & Mucha 150/70Kč or 250/120Kč
combined ticket.
Kafka Museum C-2, Pra-
ha 1, Hergetova Cihelna,
Cihelná 2b, tel. 257 53 55
07, w w w.kaf kamuseum.
cz. This new collection en-
ti tled The Ci ty of K. Franz
Kafka and Prague opened
in Barcelona in 1999, trans-
ferred to the Jewish Museum in New York in 2002 and
opened in Prague in the summer of 2005. This museum
illuminates the crucial relationship between the man and
the city. It is divided into Existential Space where we
see what Prague did with and to Kafka, and Imaginary
Topography which looks at how Kafka creates enigmatic
layers of his city through first editions and letters, diaries
and manuscripts, and audiovisual pieces. QOpen 10:00
- 18:00. Admission 120/60Kč.
Kampa Museum B-3, Praha 1, U Sovových mlýnů 2,
tel. 257 28 61 47, www.museumkampa.cz. Sitting pret-
tily on the west bank of the Vltava is this large collection of
Central European modern art with exhibitions of works by
painter František Kupka, cubist sculpture by Otto Gutfreund
and the works of collage artist and poet Jiří Kolář. The cafe
overlooking the river is fabulous. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Admission 100/50Kč.
Langhans Galerie I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 37,
MMůstek, tel. 222 92 93 33, www.langhansgalerie.
cz. The sleek lined, clean-cut minimalism of a award-winning
symbiosis of old and new architecture is complemented beau-
tifully by the photographic exhibitions hanging on its walls.
Behind the Foto Škoda store, which in itself is a museum of
old and new cameras. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 60/20Kč.
Leica Gallery Praha 1, Školská 28, MMůstek, tel.
608 96 35 24, www.lgp.cz. Their new Gallery will be
open again on 7 May. Check out their cafe, bookshop, and
of course some of the best photo exhibits in town.QOpen
11:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
Mánes Exhibition Hall G-5, Praha 1, Masarykovo
nábřeží 250, tel. 224 93 0 7 54, www.nadace-cfu.cz.
A major exhibition space for all forms of modern and con-
temporary art from the Czech Art Fund Foundation. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
Miniatures Museum Praha 1, Strahovské nádvoří
11, tel. 233 35 23 71, www.muzeumminiatur.com.
This museum contains odd scribblings on grains of rice,
the Lord’s Prayer written on one human hair, the world’s
smallest book, and minitures of masterpieces. They have
magnifying glasses. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Admission
50Kč.
prague.inyourpocket.com
WHAT TO SEE 69
Mozart Museum (Bertramka) Praha 5, Mozartova
169, MAnděl, tel. 257 31 67 53, www.bertramka.cz.
This museum, dedicated to the Austrian Wunderkind and the
family he lived with in Prague, is located in a 17th century
villa. The villa, owned by the Dušek family, is where Mozart
wrote Don Giovanni. There’s a bust of the famed composer
in the villa gardens, and music scores and concert posters
are preserved inside. QOpen 09:30 - 17:00. Admission
110/50Kč.
Mucha Museum F-4, Praha 1, Panská 7, MMůstek,
tel. 221 45 13 33, www.mucha.cz. Mucha shaped the Art
Nouveau movement with his groundbreaking (and often stolen
from Paris’ streets) posters for actress Sarah Bernhardt and
the Theatre de la Renaissance, and has some renown as a
photographer with the studies for his various masterpieces.
He also has an excellent shot of a trouserless Paul Gauguin
at a harmonium. A fitting tribute to artistic genius, whether
you prefer his pastel seasons, the accusing desperation of
the Slav Epic (his incomplete and huge magnum opus of which
there are strangely no photos), or modern prints on everything
from coasters to mousepads. Don’t miss the short biographi-
cal film. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 120Kč.
Museum of Communism F-4, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 10,
tel. 224 21 29 66, www.muzeumkomunismu.cz. The
posters featuring the workers of the state, featuring a mix of
socialist-realism which produces simultaneous hilarity and
dark brooding, are almost worth the entrance fee on their own.
Errant and erratic household objects can give this place an
incomplete feel, however, the photos and historical informa-
tion on display are a minimalist introduction to the events of
this period. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 180Kč.
Muzeum Karlova Mostu (Charles Bridge Museum)
D-3, Praha 1, Křížovnické nám. 3, MStaroměstská, tel.
739 30 95 51, www.muzeumkarlovamostu.cz. This new
museum, opened to coincide with the 650th anniversary of
the building of Charles Bridge in 1357 (the clever number
logo is no coincidence, 135797531. The first stone was
laid at 05:31 on 9 July). English texts are available to explain
the unique Knights of the Red Cross hospital location, their
church and crypt, various bridges; an arch and pillar of the
even older (1158 - 1172) Judit Bridge, and others in the
region, construction techniques, etc. Charles Bridge, with its
statues and history, is the focus but there is so much more.
Fascinating. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. 150/70Kč.
National Museum
(Národní muzeum) F-4,
Praha 1, Václavské nám.
68, tel. 224 49 71 11, www.
nm.cz. Permanent exhibitions
include pre-historical, min-
eralogical, palaeontological,
zoological, and there is a good
collection of bronze statues
of famous Czechs is in the pantheon of the building. One
of the most celebrated buildings in Prague, but its exhibits
are not nearly as impressive. QOpen 9:00 - 17:00, Wed
9:00 - 20:00. Closed every first Tue of the month. Admission
150/100Kč.
www.inyourpocket.com
April - May 2009
70 WHAT TO SEE
Robert Guttmann Gallery (Jewish Museum) E-2,
Praha 1, U Staré školy 3, MStaroměstská, tel. 221 71
15 11, www.jewishmuseum.cz. As synagogues and prayer
rooms began to be demolished by Prague’s municipal offices
at the end of the 19th century, the Czech-Jewish community
applied their vigour to creating a Jewish Museum wherein
ritual objects could be saved from destruction and kept for
future generations. Thus, in 1906 Prague’s Jewish Museum
began with a modest collection. Today, it is celebrating its
centenary with an exhibit here entitled Defying the Beast (until
1 Oct). The museum is closed on Jewish holidays too. QOpen
09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat. Admission 40/20Kč.
Rudolf inum D-2, Praha
1, Alšovo nábř. 12,
MStaromětská, tel. 227
05 92 05, www.galerieru-
dolfinum.cz. Commissioned
as concert halls and exhibition
space and named after the
Austrian Prince Royal who at-
tended the opening in 1885, this is now home to the Czech
Philharmonic and an exhibition space. With no permanent
collection, the gallery is dedicated to temporary exhibitions.
QOpen 10:00 - 17:30, Thu 10:00 - 19:30. Closed Mon.
Admission 120/60Kč. U
Smetana Museum C-3, Praha 1, Novotného lávka 1,
tel. 222 22 00 82, www.nm.cz. Classical appreciation goes
high tech. When you point the special laser conductor’s baton
at music stands in this museum, excerpts from Smetana’s
works come to life. Bedřich Smetana was a Czech symphonic
poet, whose masterpiece was the nationalistic My Fatherland,
which includes a musical ode to the Vltava. QOpen 10:00 -
12:00&12:30-17:00. Closed Tue. Admission 50/20Kč.
Stone Bell House (Dům u kammenného zvonu) E-3,
Praha 1, Staromětská nám. 13, MStaromětská, tel. 222
32 76 77, www.citygalleryprague.cz. The oldest Gothic
house in Prague, hidden for years behind a neo-Baroque fa-
cade, has been superbly restored and now houses commend-
able art exhibitions run by the City Gallery of Prague. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 120/60Kč.
Torture Museum B-2, Praha 1, Mostecká 21, tel. 603
88 93 61. Medieval torture instruments from all parts of
Europe. Take the kids to show them how nice you actually are.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Admission 120/100Kč.
Transport Museum Praha 6, Patočkova 4, MHrad-
canská, tel. 296 12 49 00, www.dpp.cz/muzeum-mhd.
See beautifully restored classic trams and buses from the
glory days of Prague trolleys in this converted depot. Read
the history and see the uniforms, old advertising hoardings,
maps and photographs. The historical tram (N°91, hourly
from 12:00 - 18:00) leaves from here on a journey past the
castle and Václavské náměsti. Q Open Sat, Sun and public
holidays only 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 35/20.
Tr oja Chateau Praha
1, U trojského zámku 1,
MNádraží Holešovice, tel.
283 85 16 14, www.city-
galleryprague.cz. A grand
17th century summer palace
built for Count Václav Vojtěch
Šternberg, Troja has French
gardens littered with Baroque sculptures right on the river
below the Botanical gardens and next to the Zoo. It was
originally situated here to be opposite Stromovka royal game
Prague In Your Pocket
preserve (now Stromovka Park), which it is linked to today
by a pedestrian bridge, but be warned it is no short walk to
the closest tram stop once you start. Jean-Baptiste Mathey
designed the palace, which Šternberg spared no expense
on. Its most striking feature is the external double staircase
ornamented by statues of Titanic struggles with Olympian
gods. The interior is no less impressive with magnificent
vaulted ceilings, paintings, sculptures, murals and frescoes
- especially the giant, florid tribute to a Hapsburg victory in
the Grand Hall. After major reconstruction of the house and
garden in 1998, the Chateau became an annex of the City
Gallery, housing a collection of Baroque glass and a collection
of 19th century Czech paintings. Troja was hard hit in the 2002
floods, but the gardens and house are back in their former
glory. From the metro, hop on tram 5, 17, 25 to Trojská or
bus 112 to the Zoo. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 120/60Kč, gardens free.
Veletržní Palace (National Gallery) I-1, Praha
7, Dukelských hrdinů 47, MVltavská, tel. 224 30
11 11, w w w.ngprague.cz. The stunning modernist
Veletržní Palace houses the National Gallery’s collection
of modern and contemporar y ar t, including works by
Klimt and Frank Gehry. The building is so big that they
split entrance fees by how many of its three floors you
wish to visit. Tram N°5,12,17 to Veletržní. The space also
hosts concerts now. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 160/80.
City tours
Best Tour Praha 7, U Uranie 17, tel. 284 81 41 41,
www.besttour.cz. Their basic two-hour bus tour of the city
costs 350Kč/person and leaves daily at 10:00, 14:00 and
16:00 from F-4, Václavské nám. 27. Q 24 hours. A
Bohemia Travel Service I-3, Praha 1, Revoluční 25,
tel. 224 82 62 62, www.citytours.cz. The three-hour city
tour costs 560Kč. Tours leave from Národní 38. You may
request a free pick-up and drop-off at your hotel. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00. A
Cityrama Prague I-5, Praha 1, Štěpánská 21, tel. 222
23 02 08, 602 218 469, fax 222 23 24 29, office@cit-
yrama.cz, www.cityrama.cz. Explore the Golden Heart of
Europe with various sightseeing tours in Prague and beyond.
The City Tour (daily 09:30 and 14:00) joins boat tours, night
explorations, excursions around the country and the region.
QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. A
Čedok F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 18, tel. 224 19 76 32,
www.cedok.cz. The three and a half-hour city tour leaves
daily at 09:30 from Nám. Republiky. Prices from 560Kč per
person. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed
Sun. A
Martin Tour I-5, Praha 1, Štěpánská 61, tel. 224 21 24
73, fax 224 23 97 52, www.martintour.cz. Their short
city bus tour starts at 250Kč per person.
Prague Sightseeing Tours I-3, Praha 1, Klimentská
52, tel. 222 31 46 61/602 37 55 52, fax 222 31 80
17, www.pstours.cz. City tours, boat trips and excur-
sions. Q A
Precious Legacy Tours D-2, Praha 1, Kaprova 13, tel./
fax 222 32 19 54, www.legacytours.cz. Besides doing
the run-of-the-mill city tours this company also organises an
extensive array of Jewish history and culture tours in Prague
and throughout Eastern Europe.
prague.inyourpocket.com
WHAT TO SEE 71
Premiant City Tour H-4, Praha 1, Nekázanka 11, tel.
224 01 28 20, www.premiant.cz. A variety of tours for a
variety of tourists, there are combination bus and walking
tours, brief tours, in-depth tours, the rest of the Czech Re-
public tours and many more. The cheapest is Brief Prague
at 250Kč. Q A
Curiosities
Dancing Fountains (Křižíkova Fontána) Praha 7,
Průmyslový palác (Výstaviště), tel. 220 10 32 80, www.
krizikovafontana.cz. Water and lights accompanied by mu-
sic (from Carmina Burana to Queen) and on occasion, people.
This is actually far more enthralling than it sounds - really.
GDR camping ground A-2, Praha 1, Vlašská 19 (Ger-
man Embassy), MMalostranská. In the summer of 1989,
thousands of East Germans on holiday in Prague decided that
they would rather not go home. They climbed into the garden
of the West German embassy, pitched their tents and were
a major embarrasment to the GDR authorities. They were
eventually allowed to leave on special trains bound for West
Germany and abandoned their East German cars. In honour
of their flight, a painted Trabant on giant legs was made by
Czech artist David Černý. To catch a glimpse of the statue in
the embassy grounds, carry on uphill past the embassy and
turn left into the small park.
Choco-Story: The Chocolate Museum I3, Praha 1,
Celetná 10, MStaroměstská, tel. 224 24 29 53, www.
choco-story-praha.cz. Choco-holics have found their Prague
nirvana. The Choc-Story offers the history, demonstration
and tasting of this glorious sweet. Trace chocolate’s history
back to the time of the Aztecs; see how it came to Europe
and what European chocolatiers did to it to make it so yummy.
Out front there’s a huge chocolate shop selling a fabulous construction magnate František Müller in 1930. The building
collection of Belgium treats.QOpen 10:30 - 19:00. Adults: looks like a solid white block from the outside, though the
140kč; Children 6-12: 95kč; Children 3-6: 25kč. interior is constructed with marble, mahogany and walnut,
highly polished and cleanly designed. The rooms all sit at
Lennon Wall B-3, Praha 1, Malá Strana, Velkopřevoské various levels around an ascending sweeping spiral. Tram
nám.. Opposite the French embassy is the Lennon Wall. Dur- N°1,18 to Ořechovka. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon,
ing the communist era it was here that revolutionaries daubed Wed, Fri. Admission 300/200Kč, 100Kč extra for an English
anti-government slogans thereby running the risk of arrest. guide. Tours by appointment only.
Today the wall is covered with graffiti - poems and words of
peace written by millions of visitors from around the world.
Not really what it used to be; but people still visit. Junior Prague
Adventure Playground J-4, Praha 1, Vrchlického sady,
Prague Karting Arena Praha 9, Toužimská 55, tel. 777 Opletalova, MHlavní nádraží. The area near Prague’s main
31 18 56/776 64 81 89, www.praguekartingarena.com. railway station is slowly being reclaimed from nefarious char-
Indoor 512m track that can race up to 10 karts at one time. acters with designer hotels and this superb enclosed kids’
A race of approximately 8km (16 laps) costs 200Kč and lasts playground with activites for kids big and small. QOpen
about 10 minutes, depending on your cornering skills. To book 08:00 - 19:00.
the entire track costs 12,000Kč (+VAT) per hour. QOpen
14:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. AKL AquaPalace Aqua Park Pražská 138, tel. 271 10 41
11, info@aquapalace.cz, www.aquapalace.cz. When
Victims of Communism Memorial A-4, Újezd tram one more museum will just about do them in; treat the kids
stop. Near the funicular railway station and opposite the to a watery side of Prague. No, we don’t mean toss them in
Újezd tram stop, there is a controversial memorial to the the Vltava, but bring them to AquaPalace Aqua Park. Pools,
victims of communism. A group of statues by Olbram Zoubek slides, wave pool, whirlpool and a river, plus a variety of sau-
emerge into totality as they walk, or are at various stages nas and a fitness centre for the adults. Plan on spending the
of destruction, depending how you look at it. Why are they day. Take bus 324, 325, 328, 363 or 385 from the Opatov
controversial? Other artists say they are kitschy, while metro station to the Čestlice stop.QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
feminists are angry because all the figures are male and Prices vary depending on the day of the week and the time
they (quite rightly) claim women were persecuted under the of day, For two hours on a Saturday it’s 300Kč for an adult
communists regime too. The memorial was damaged by two and 200Kč for a child.
bomb attacks in late 2003.
Čertovka G-4. A tiny park underneath the west end of
Villa Müller Praha 6, Nad Hradním vodojemem 14, tel. Charles Bridge with a playground and sandpit. The fenced off
224 31 20 12, www.mullerovavila.cz. This icon of modern area means you can let them off the leash a little. QOpen
architecture was designed by Moravian-born Adolf Loos for 08.00 - 17:30.
prague.inyourpocket.com April - May 2009
72 WHAT TO SEE
Letná park , MHradčanská. Fabulous enclosed play-
ground in the park. Fun and games galore. It is found near the
rear of the gardens, by the playing fields facing Sparta Praha
football stadium. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00.
Mirror Labyrinth (Zrcadlové bludiště) A-4, Praha
1, Petřínské sady, tel. 257 31 52 12. Right next to the
Petřín Tower is a hall of mirrors - you may even get your kids
to come in if the ice cream vendors haven’t caught their eye
first. March into the mini-castle to see how you would look if
you were short and squat or tall and skinny. QOpen 10:00
- 19:00. Admission 50 - 70Kč.
Seaworld Praha 7, Výstaviště, MNádraží Holešovice,
tel. 220 10 33 05, www.morsky-svet.cz. A loop audio
tape of tidal wash envelops Prague’s little known aquarium,
Mořský Svět. The suspended manta ray may be huge, but
the tanks are small although well stocked with tropical and
fresh water fish. One tank has, we presume in honour of
Finding Nemo, clown fish and a tang. Deadly but beautiful
scorpion and turkey fish languish looking like fully sailed gal-
leons, and soft corals billow in the current. It’s not huge, but
makes an interesting detour. Signs are Czech only. QOpen
10:00 - 19:00. 190/150Kč.
Toy Museum (Museum hraček) B-1, Praha 1, Jiřská
6, tel. 224 37 22 94, www.muzeumhracek.cz. The
unfortunate thing about most toy museums is that children
tend not to enjoy them. For the most part, the experience is
too frustrating because all the cool toys are kept just out of
reach by a pane of glass. However, all is not lost; the second
floor has switches at children’s level which make the displays
of stuffed animals jostle about. QOpen 09:30 - 17:30.
Admission 20 - 40Kč.
Landmarks
Funicular Railway A-4,
Újezd tram stop. The fu-
nicular runs up Petřin Hill
providing beautiful views of
Prague and the castle. There
are two restaurants sitting at
the half-way point - there is
a station there. Use regular
20Kč tickets. Trams run at
15 min intervals. QOpen 09:00 - 11:20.
Klementinum D-3, Praha 1, Karlova 1, tel. 222 22 08
79, www.klementinum.com. The Klementinum offers a
little something for everyone: Beautiful views from the as-
tronomical tower; Baroque architecture in the library hall and
classical musical concerts in the Mirror Chapel. The building
dates back to 1232 and currently houses the National Library,
as well as 12 hard to find sundials. Guided tours are held daily.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Náměstí Míru J-5/6, ,
MNám. Míru. In Czech this
means Peace Square and it is
dominated by a soaring two-
tower basilica, the neo-gothic
Saint Ludmila Church (Kostel
sv. Ludmil y). This b eau ti ful
church was constructed from
1888 to 1893 and bears the
creati ve power of many re-
nowned artists, including sculp-
tor Josef Václav Myslbek, who
also fashioned the statue of
Prague In Your Pocket
St. Wenceslas. Ludmila (860 - 921) was born in Mělník and
baptised, probably by St. Methodius, in 871. After her hus-
band died their son assumed the throne and had two sons
with his pagan wife Drahomíra; Boleslav and Wenceslas,
the latter later to become the patron saint of the Czech
Republic. Ludmila was strangled at the hand or the behest
of Drahomíra who resented her meddling with the budding
Christian, Wenceslas. She is celebrated on 16 September
and is patron to, among others, converts, widows and those
with problematic in-laws… Náměstí Míru (green line A) is the
deepest of Prague’s metro stations and as such has one of
the longest escalators in Europe - 87m long with a vertical
span of 43m - without walking, it takes over 2 minutes to
ascend/descend. The park hosts many festivals including
the late September burčák festival and the Christmas market.
The square has an almost starring role in the 2006 remake
of cult horror classic, The Omen.
National Memorial (Národní památník) K-3, Praha
3, Na Vrchu Žižkově. One of the largest equestrian statues
in the world dominates the hill overlooking the north eastern
district of Žižkov. The 16.5 ton statue commemorates the
Hussite hero, Jan Žižka. Behind the statue is the national
mausoleum, built originally as a memorial to World War I
Czechoslovak legions, and then taken over as the resting
place for the great and the not very good Communists. The
first working class president, Klement Gottwald, was pickled
in slivovice and put on display here. Unfortunately the pres-
ervation was not wholly successful and the body started to
putrefy from the feet up, shocking the odd visiting school
party as their national hero literally started to fall apart before
their very eyes. His body was returned to his family in 1990
and later buried in the cemetery in Olšanské.
Petřín Tower (Petřínská
rozhledna) A-4, , MPetřin
funicular, tel. 257 32 01 12.
At the top of Petřin Hill stands a
60m-high bad copy of the Eiffel
Tower, affording great views of the
city. The building was completed
in May 20, 1891. An alternative
route to the castle is to ride the
funky funicular up Petřín Hill and
walk pass the tower across to
the castle area. QOpen 10:00
- 19:00. Open Sat & Sun 10:00 -
17:00. Admission 50/40/10Kč.
The Dancing House (Tančící dům) G-5, Praha 2,
Rašínovo nábř. 80. Frank Gehry’s design for this building
was inspired by the dancing team Ginger Rogers and Fred
Astaire. Built in 1996, this structure more than cuts a swathe
among the Austrian-Hungarian terrace blocks that make up
most of Prague.
TV Tower K-4, Praha 3,
Mahlerovy sady 1, MJiřího
z Poděbrad, tel. 267 00
57 78, fax 222 72 40 14,
w w w.tower.cz. This huge
silver tower with funny-looking
boxes attached to it was built
b et ween 1985 and 1992.
Swift lifts whisk you to a fan-
tastic panorama of the city,
then descend a few floors
to dine whilst contemplating
the intricacies of vertigo. The
scary black babies crawling
prague.inyourpocket.com
all over the tower are an art installation by David Černy that
became permanent. And now the tower is lit up in rather fetch-
ing hues of pink and purple. Try and miss it now... QOpen
10:00 - 23:30. Admission 150/120Kč.
Parks & Gardens
Botanical Gardens (Botanická zahrada) Praha 7,
Nádvorní 134, MNádraží Holešovice, tel. 234 14 81
11, www.botgarden.cz. An outdoor section with vineyard,
chapel, bonsai, a Japanese Zen garden, greenhouses and
wonderful views of the city. A little further up the hill is the
Fata Morgana greenhouse exhibiting desert, high sierra and
tropical plants in a realistic setting. Residents include but-
terflies, moths, frogs and greenery galore. Bus N°112 from
the metro station. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Fata Morgana
closed Mon. Admission 120/60Kč.
Charles University Botanical Gardens H-6, Praha 2,
Na Slupi 16, MKarlovo nám.. Outside it’s all rockeries, wind-
ing paths leading nowhere and benches for contemplation.
Inside, the warmth of the glasshouse can get uncomfortable
but the musty, moistly lush aroma is alluring. Massive prime-
val plants, aquariums, orchids, a coffee bush and papayas
transport you well into the tropics and carnivorous plants are
for sale at the entrance. The Cactus Room is home now to a
clone of the Methuselah tree, the world’s oldest documented
living organism at 4,789 years old. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Admission 15Kč.
Kampa Park G-4, Kampa Island. Featuring a well-equipped
children’s playground, Kampa Park is caressed by water
on all sides thanks to the millstream known as the Devil’s
Stream. The park is notable for its serenity in the midst of
the centre, and is popular with couples, the local and expat
hippy population, as well as families enjoying the playground.
You can also feed the ducks or visit one of the cafés. QOpen
09:00 - 20:00.
Petřín A-3/4. With stunning views of the city and a choice
of gardens and trails to explore, Petřín is packed with activites
or lazing opportunities. Features include the tower, a mirror
hall, an 18th century Ukrainian wooden church and Prague’s
lovers enjoying ... ah, the view.
Valdštejnská zahrada
B-1/2, , MMalostranská.
The Wallenstein Gardens
may have a lot of rules, but
the lack of human and canine
detritus adds to their beauty.
Famous for the peacocks,
the cavern-like folly (look
for phallic and serpentine
motifs) and the biggest fish we’ve seen in a while - ducklings
often have to make a sharp exit to avoid being nibbled. An
owlery, beautiful frescoes and benches galore for whiling away
sunny afternoons. Look for the secret entrance next to the
metro exit.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. G
Vojanovy sady G-3, Praha 1, U Lužického semináře. This
park’s previous incarnations have included a convent and an
orchard. Now, its pathways are great for strolling and as an
added bonus you can bump into sculptures used as beehives
set among the trees and bushes, and even spot the odd
peacock wandering around. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00.
Zoo Praha Praha 7, U Trojského zámku 3, MNádraží
Holešovice, tel. 296 11 21 11, www.zoopraha.cz. Zoo
Praha is a really cool zoo. Following the floods of 2002 (in
prague.inyourpocket.com
WHAT TO SEE 73
which there was an unfortunate loss of animal life that was
broadcast round the world) many improvements to infrastruc-
ture and the animal’s homes have been made. Big ones, like
elephants, lions and tigers can be spotted, but don’t miss
the gorillas, penguins, kangaroos, giraffes, parrots, wolves
and hyenas. Recent additions have included an Indonesian
Jungle and the just opened (04/2008) pavilion for a group
of rare Indian crocodiles. Seven young Gavil crocs are now
at home here - the only European zoo to house this critically
endangered specie. Zoo officials hope they’ll settle in nicely
and reproduce. That’s another special aspect of the Zoo
Praha - their conservation efforts. The facility was instru-
mental in preventing the extinction of Przewalski horses in
the ‘60’s and hopes to have similar success with the Gavils.
Additional highlights include the Gorilla Pavilion and African
Jungle. Definitely the place to come to if you have little
ones in tow - there’s an excellent petting zoo and kids play
area. A train ride through the zoo, a chair lift ride above the
zoo or wagon-like vehicles for the kids are available for tired
tootsies. Shaded, well-laid out paths make this a good visit,
even on warm days.
The zoo opened in 1931 and today spreads over 60 hectares
and is home to nearly 5,000 animals. Concession stands
shockingly don’t jack up the prices, so an entire day can easily
be spent here. Take bus N°112 from metro station Nádraží
Holešovice or even stretch your legs further and walk across
the Vltava River via the footbridge from Stromovka park.
Q Open 09:00 - 18:00. March 09:00-17:00, Apr, May,
Sep, Oct - 09:00-18:00, Jun, Jul, Aug- 09:00-19:00, Nov,
Dec, Jan, Feb - 09:00-16:00 Admission 150/100Kč.
TA6ULBKC
Walking & Bike Tours
City Bike F-3, Praha 1, Králodvorská 5, tel. 776 18
02 84, www.pragueonline.cz/citybike. Explore the city
by bicycle with the cool dudes at City Bike. Organised tours
(450Kč) following two prescribed routes leave from their
location daily at 10:00, 14:00 and sunset last 2-3 hours.
Rentals are available too. Closes 31 Oct.
City Walks , tel. 608 20 09 12/222 24 45 31, www.
praguer.com. For 450Kč you can take the four hour Insider
Tour of the city including Staroměstská, Nové Město, Jose-
fov, Malá Strana and Prague Castle. The tour also provides
complimentary refreshments and a ride on the funicular.
Tours begin daily at the statue at the top of Václavské nám.
at 09:45 and 13:30.
Daily Walks J-3, Praha 1, Na Florenci 20, tel. 281 91
76 42/603 15 70 01, www.walks.cz. These cool cats
will walk you around town for 300 - 1,000Kč, less if you are
a student, and introduce you to various aspects of Prague.
The meeting point is in front of the Astronomical Clock at
the blue umbrella.
Praha Bike E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 24, MStaroměstská,
tel. 732 38 88 80, www.prahabike.cz. Two-hour bike tours
leave daily at 14:30 and cost 390Kč. Bikes are also for rent
(from 190Kč for 2 hrs). Winter and alternative time tours can
be arranged. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.
Real Tour I-5, , tel. 602 45 94 81, www.walkingtour-
sprague.com. Englishman Paul and Czech Michal do the
four-hour, 300Kč Real Tour of Prague starting at 12:30 at
the horse statue at the top of Václavské nám. The walk
includes a break at a pub and ends at the castle. Pick-ups
at 12:00 from the Traveller’s Hostel on Dlouhá and the Clown
and Bard. Walks on Mon, Wed, Thu & Sat only. NB, no tours
from 20 - 31 Oct.
April - May 2009
74 SHOPPING BUSINESS DIRECTORY 75

Books
Anagram F-2, Praha 1, Týn 4, tel. 224 89 57 37, www.
anagram.cz. The owner personally selects all the stock at
this excellent bookshop, and he will order any book you need.
It also has second-hand books. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun
10:00 - 18:00. Also at J-5, Praha 2, Anny Letenské 18.
Big Ben F-2, Praha 1, Malá Štupartská 5, tel. 224 82
65 65, fax 224 82 65 59, www.bigbenbookshop.com.
English-language books only are sold here, with standard
guides on Prague, plus several shelves of bestsellers, chil-
drens books, fiction, non-fiction and travel books. QOpen
09:00 - 18:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. A
Globe H-5, Praha 1, Pštrossova 6, tel. 224 93 42 03,
www.globebookstore.cz. English books, second-hand
books, and magazines, internet access, café and restaurant.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. A
The proprietor has a fun shopping sense and you never know
what you may find, be it books, jewelry or other Bohemian
treasures. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. A
Arzenal D-2, Praha 1, Valentinská 11, tel. 224 81 40 99,
www.arzenal.cz. Glass from Boris Šípek, the leading Czech
architect and designer. The shop is also a Thai restaurant,
Arzenal, which is strange, but somehow pleasing. QOpen
10:00 - 24:00. A
Moser F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 12, tel. 224 21 12 93,
www.moser-glass.com. Moser is the oldest Czech glass
manufacturer and it’s been in operation since 1857. QOpen
09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Also at E-3, Praha
1, Malé nám. 2, tel. 221 61 15 20. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 19:00. A
Shopping centres
Banks
Česká spořitelna F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 26,
tel. 224 42 26 86/800 20 72 07, fax 224 23 93 28,
www.csas.cz. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00, Fri 08:30 - 16:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
ČSOB Československá obchodní banka F-3, Praha
1, Na Příkopě 18, tel. 261 35 67 11, info@csob.cz, www.
csob.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
KB Komerční banka F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 33,
tel. 222 43 21 11, www.kb.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Raiffeisenbank I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 38, tel. 221
14 12 61, www.rb.cz. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
Foreign press & Websites
Czech Business Weekly E-3, Praha 1, Provaznická 13,
tel. 234 07 13 70, fax 234 07 13 77, cbw@cbw.cz, www.
cbw.cz. Business weekly, published each Monday.
expats.cz, www.expats.cz. Prague’s largest and ever-
growing online community, an invaluable resource for finding
any thing, any where at any time. Especially good for finding
a place to live, a job and people to drink with.
Final Word Praha 1, Opletalova 41, tel. 221 00 43 15,
fax 224 22 15 80, info@fsfinalword.com, www.fsfinal-
word.com. A free daily email bulletin that addresses a single
political, economic or social issue.
Finance New Europe Praha 7, Dobrovského 10/554,
tel. 233 38 02 69, www.financeneweurope.com. Bi-
monthly publication and website focusing on the financial

Palác Knih Luxor F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 41, tel.
221 11 13 64, www.neoluxor.cz. Large shop with a good
selection of foreign-language books downstairs. The 28. Října 7
shop has a good collection of translations from Czech upstairs.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.
Also at (E-4) 28. Října 7 and (F-3) Celetná 34. A
Shakespeare & Sons Praha 10, Krymska 12, MNám.
Míru, tel. 271 74 08 39, www.shakes.cz. Thousands
of handpicked new and used English titles, earnest poetry
and prose readings and performance, newspapers, chess
and backgammon plus café. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Also
at Praha 1, U Luzickeho seminare 10. Tel. 257 53 18 94.
Open 11:00 - 21:00.
Department stores
Debenhams F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 21, tel. 221
01 50 57, www.debenhams.cz. The English department
store has made its mark. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. A
Kotva F-2, Praha 1, nám. Republiky 8, tel. 224 80 11
11, www.od-kotva.cz. A variety of well-priced shops and
services, and a special area for children, all in the ugliest
building in central Prague. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00
- 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. AL
Marks & Spencer Václavské nám. 36, MMuzeum,
tel. 224 237 503, marksandspencer.com. One of the
UK’s most well-known stores. It’s all here: the clothes; the
food; the housewares. Q Open 9:30 - 20:30, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 20:00. A
Palladium nám. Republicky 1, Mnám. Republicky,
tel. 225 770 250, www.palladiumpraha.cz. Prague’s
newest and brightest mall. What used to be an army bar-
racks is now home to a huge variety of shops. A gourmet
floor and lots of restaurants means you could easily lose a
day amidst the 5 floors of climate-controlled amusement.
QOpen 7:00 - 22:00.
Slovanský dům Na Příkopě 1, Mnám. Republiky, tel.
234 603 360, www.slovanskydum.cz. Shopping, food and
a great cinema all under one roof. Good mix of shops from
fashion to housewares.
Tesco D-4, Praha 1, Národní 26, MNárodní třída, tel.
222 00 31 11, www.tesco-shop.cz. Britain’s best store
with a supermarket in the basement. Delivery service
is also available, check the website for details. QOpen
08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Supermarket open 07:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun
09:00 - 20:00. A
Glass
Artěl Praha 1, Celetná 29, MStaroměstské nám., tel.
271 73 21 61, www.artelglass.com. A welcome addition
to Prague’s glass scene, which can be a bit on the tacky side.
Arkády Pankrác Praha 4, Na Pankráci 86, MPankrác,
tel. 225 11 11 00, info@arkady-pankrac.cz, www.arkady-
pankrac.cz. Arkády Pankrác is the newest of Prague’s
bazillion malls. With a direct entrance from the Pankrác metro
station and a lot of really good shops; this should be a popular
hang out. Blažek for men, Pierre Cardin and Pietro Filipi are
just a few of the good ones, along with consistent favs Next,
Gant, H&M and Mango. And, they have nine separate shoe
shops! Unfortunately, the food court (everyone’s real reason
for going to the mall) is a bit disappointing; however they do
have a branch of the fab Lebanese restaurant, Safir. QOpen
9:00 - 21:00.
Černá růže F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 12, MMůstek,
tel. 221 01 41 11, www.cernaruze.cz. All the right
shops and some fine extras in this larger-than-it-appears
centre. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Sun
11:00 - 19:00.
Nový Smíchov Praha 5, Plzeňská 8, MAnděl, tel. 257
28 41 11, info@novysmichovoc.cz. Home to Carrefour and
more. The games arcade is fabulous and Palace Cinemas are
on the top floor. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
Palác Flóra Praha 3, Vinohradská 151, MFlóra, tel. 255
74 17 00, www.palacflora.cz. New and very chic shopping
centre, with over 120 shops, as well as restaurants, cafés,
a cinema multiplex and an IMAX theatre. All in the centre of
Prague. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.
Slovanský Dům F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 22, MNám.
Republiky, tel. 221 45 14 00, www.slovanskydum.cz.
High end retail shops, a multiplex cinema and Kogo restau-
rant attract the right people at this central shopping centre.
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.
Toys
Beruška I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 30 (Pasáž Lucerna),
tel. 221 01 46 07, www.beruska-praha.cz. Traditional
Czech toys, i.e. wooden mice and puppets. Adults will love
them, while children will probably just want to blast them
with interplanetary death lasers. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00,
Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A
Games & Puzzles H-4, Praha 1, Jungmannova 8, tel.
224 00 95 50, www.hras.cz. Games and mind teasers.
QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A
MPM H-5, Praha 2, Myslíkova 19, tel. 224 93 02 57,
www.mpm.cz. This large shop sells kits for planes, trains
and automobiles. Oh, and ships, too. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. A
Sparkys E-3, Praha 1, Havířská 2, tel. 224 23 93 09,
www.sparkys.cz. Over four floors of toys and gifts where
the latest fads jostle for space with traditional Czech wooden
toys. Indulge your child or even yourself. Too embarrassed
to be seen buying a Furby? Don’t worry; you can buy online.
QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. A
Real estate issues facing Central & Eastern Europe.
Fleet Sheet Praha 1, Soukenická 13, tel. 296 58 01
AAA BYTY.CZ akciová společnost Václavské 60, fax 224 22 15 80, info@fleet.cz, www.fleet.cz. A
náměstí 62, MMuzeum, tel. 226 060 606/774 333 rundown of the day’s major business and political stories
010, info@aaabyty.cz, www.aaabyty.cz. AAABYTY.cz. is from the Czech press.
a full service real estate company and can assist you with Prague Daily Monitor, www.praguemonitor.com. A
buying, renting or selling a flat, house, office and even land. daily summary with links to Czech news plus links to other
They are experts with many additional resources in-house, interesting cool sites.
like help with securing financing and legal and tax assistance. The New Presence D-4, Národní 11, MNárodní třída,
Plus, they have offices across the country so you will find them tel. 222 07 56 00, www.new-presence.cz. Czech and
especially helpful if you’re not looking in Prague. European political and cultural affairs. Published quarterly.
Apollo Real Estate Praha 10, Na Zájezdu 11, tel. The Prague Post I-5, Praha 1, Štěpánská 20, tel.
224 22 25 87/603 56 00 00, fax 224 22 26 41, info@ 296 33 44 00/296 33 44 09, fax 296 33 44 50, info@
apollosro.cz, www.apollosro.cz. A ten person company praguepost.cz, www.praguepost.cz. Longest serving
that deals with both commercial and residential real estate. weekly English language newspaper.
QOpen 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Think Again Praha 3, Vinohradská 102, tel. 777 13 35
Continental Reality J-6, Praha 2, nám. Míru 15, tel. 14, fax 267 31 57 89, info@thinkagain.cz, www.thinka-
222 51 71 05, fax 222 51 70 78, realty@continental. gain.cz. Prague’s free bilingual monthly magazine.
cz, www.continental.cz. A 10 person company that deals
with both commercial and residential real estate. QOpen
09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Česká Realitní a Investiční I-5, Praha 1, Elišky Krás-
nohorské 2, tel. 224 81 82 83/608 74 94 90, fax 224
81 82 43, info@cinzovnidomy.cz, www.cinzovnidomy.
cz. 12 multilingual staff in Prague plus more in the office in
České Budějovice will sell or rent you property, manage it, or
help you qualify to buy it in the first place. QOpen 08:00 -
19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
European Reality E-4, Praha 8, Sokolská 84-86, MI.
P. Pavlova, tel. 222 50 78 88, fax 222 50 78 91, www.
europeanreality.com. English letting company for all budgets
- give them a call and get some friendly advice and hopefully
the abode of your choice. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
King Sturge I-3, Praha 1, V celnici 10, MNám. Repub-
liky, tel. 221 03 30 44, fax 221 03 30 55, www.king-
sturge.com. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Lexxus F-4, Praha 1, Panská 6/895, tel. 224 21 72
25, fax 224 21 73 14, info@lexxus-nhc.cz, www.lexx.
cz. Commercial and residential real estate. QOpen 08:30
- 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Mentis I-5, Praha 1, V jámě 1, tel. 224 16 24 36, fax
224 16 20 46, mentis@mentis.cz, www.mentis.cz. Com-
mercial and residential real estate. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Orion J-5, Praha 5, Holečkova 31, tel. 257 31 45 11,
fax 257 31 01 26, info@orionreal.cz, www.orionreal.cz.
Commercial and residential real estate. English and German
speaking staff. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Professionals I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 4, MNám. Repub-
liky, tel. 224 93 46 80, fax 224 93 49 82, info@profes-
sionals.cz, www.professionals.cz. Established in 1993,
Professionals Real Estate Agency offers a full range of real
estate consultancy services within Prague and surrounding
areas. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com April - May 2009

76 HEALTH & BEAUTY HEALTH & BEAUTY 77

24-hour pharmacies

TANTRA Lékárna Modřany Praha 4, Soukalova 3355, tel. 244

40 22 70. &,*
( …a life changing expe
ence

Prague
Lékárna Palackého H-4, Praha 1, Palackého 5, tel.

MASSAGE
224 94 69 82.
Lékárna U Anděla Praha 5, Štefánikova 6, tel. 257
32 46 86.
Lékárna U Svaté Ludmily J-6, Praha 2, Belgická 37,

in Prague tel. 222 51 33 96.

FOR BOOKING CALL
tel.: + 420 603 185 066
Dentists
American Dental Associates I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 4,
tel. 221 18 11 21, fax 221 18 11 20, www.americanden-
tal.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
Brite Smile Praha 4, Na Květnici 700/1a, tel. 261
21 07 13/724 12 29 88, info@britesmile.cz, www.
britesmile.cz.

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Sen sage /joni
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Open every day 8am- 23pm.
We are looked in the centre of Prague
OndĜíþkova 32, Prague 3 - Žížkov
e-mail: info@tantramasaze.com
www.tantramasaze.com
CLASSICAL TANTRA MASSAGE
1,5h 140 €
including joni, lingham
TANTRA MASSAGE DELUXE 2h 190 €
including joni, lingham 2,5h 230 €
FOUR HANDS MASSAGE ( 1,5h - 2,5h)
(The price will be doubled)
Prague In Your Pocket
Canadian Medical Care Praha 6, Veleslavínská 1, tel.
235 36 01 33/724 30 03 01, fax 235 36 46 40, cmc@
cmc.praha.cz, www.cmcpraha.cz. 24-hour emergency
service tel. 724 30 03 01. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. A
Dental Emergencies H-4, Praha 1, Palackého 5, tel.
224 94 69 81. Q Open 24hrs.
Dental Live Praha 1, Ul.Těšnov 5, MFlorenc, tel. 776
67 40 96, www.dentallive.cz. Whether just a cleaning or
some more intense work; it’ll get done with a smile at Dental
Live. Weekend emergency? Call 776 67 40 96.QOpen 08:00
- 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Dental Surgery and Laboratory Praha 4, U družstev
10/1668, tel. 241 40 39 70, www.hach.cz. Big posh
machines and people in white to scare you stupid. QOpen
07:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Dr. Žižková Praha 6, Evropská 32, tel. 233 33 37 08.
QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Esthesia Opletalova 1013/59, MNáměstí republiky,
tel. 284 68 05 30/775 02 56 44, www.esthesia.cz.
Dentistry of the highest order (cosmetic, preventive, ortho-
dontics & implantology) using state of the art equipment
combined with individual, after hours, professional and above
all, pain-free care for a healthy happy smile. Take the metro
to Náměstí republiky (Line B). QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. PTA
EsthetX Dental Clinic I-4, Praha 1, Václavské Náměstí
38, MMuzeum, tel. 776 77 22 44, info@esthetx.cz,
www.esthetx.cz. Smile pretty. Or get yours fixed up. Com-
plete range of dental services including preventative care
and implants.QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
European Dental Center I-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám.
33, tel. 224 22 89 84, www.edcdental.cz. A high-quality,
modern dental centre providing both general and cosmetic
dentistry, with a friendly atmosphere and relatively painless
treatment. Implants, prosthetic work, crowns, bridges, inlays,
orthodontics, periodontics and mouth surgery, and root canal
treatment are all available, with support from digital x-ray.
Plus the smile you want with the Brite-Smile system. QOpen
08:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. A
GHC Klinika Praha I-5, Praha 1, Krakovská 8, tel. 222
21 12 06, www.ghc.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
MUDr. Tomáš Pávek J-5, Praha 2, Mánesova 48, tel.
222 25 00 45. Emergency number 607 72 13 40. Offer pro-
fessional, Western medical care in the centre of Prague. Also
provide aesthetical dentistry. English, German and Russian
spoken. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Stomefekt H-5, Praha 1, Pštrossova 10, tel. 224 93
09 61, www.stomefekt.cz. QOpen 07:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. A
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Hospitals
Nemocnice Motol Praha 5, V úvalu 84, tel. 224 43
11 11/224 43 36 81, www.fnmotol.cz. The operators
of its emergency number speak English. Bus N°167 and
174. Q A
Nemocnice na Františku I-2, Praha 1, Na Františku 847,
tel. 224 81 05 02/224 81 02 80. English is spoken.
Nemocnice Na Homolce Praha 5, Roentgenova 2,
tel. 257 27 11 11, www.homolka.cz. Bus N°167 and
184. Q A
Thomayerova nemocnice Praha 4, Vídeňská 800, tel.
261 08 11 11/261 08 31 80, www.ftn.cz. Bus N°106,
113, 114 & 117.
Medical centres
Asklepion J-6, Praha 2, Londýnská 39, tel. 234 71 61
11/602 48 33 22, fax 234 71 65 20, info@asklepion.
cz, www.asklepion.cz. Super trendy clinic offering plastic
surgery, laser treatments, dentistry and even eye lash perms.
Labs and operating theatres on site. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00,
Sat 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Canadian Medical Care Praha
6, Veleslavínská 1, tel. 235 36 01
33/724 30 03 01, fax 235 36 46
40, cmc@cmcpraha.cz, www.cmcpraha.cz. General
practitioners, pediatrics, gynecology, dentists and more
can be found at Canadian Medical Care. Modern facilities
plus excellent staff make this a top of choice of many in
Prague. Also has a location in Praha 4, V Parku 2308/8,
272 91 35 93. QOpen , Mon, Wed, Fri 08:00 - 18:00, Tue,
Thu 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A
prague.inyourpocket.com
FinArt - Medico Praha 10, Jakobiho 328, tel. 274
86 73 42/274 86 71 42, www.olt.cz/finart-medico.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
GynCentrum Praha 9, Hloubětínská 13, tel. 225 00 08
88, gyncentrum@gyncentrum.cz, www.gyncentrum.cz.
A quiet and welcoming clinic for a variety of cosmetic surgery
procedures, GynCentrum offers breast enhancements,
facelifts and liposuction along with treating gynecological
ailments. Their personal and professional approach will be
welcome, no matter your reason for a visit.
Medicover I-6, Praha 2, Tylovo nám. 3/15, tel. 234
63 01 11, www.medicover.cz. Comprehensive medical
care, 24-hour house calls, dental and surgery assistance.
English, French, German, Spanish, Russian & Czech speak-
ing staff. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed
Sun. A
Miracle Beauty and
Spa Salon Janáčkovo
n á b ř e ž í 7, 1 5 0 0 0
Praha 5, tel: +420
724 363 738, +420
257 317 326, www.miraclespa.cz, manager-
miracle@seznam.cz. One of the top salons in
Prague which offers a big variety of beauty and body
treatments including LPG Systems Lipomassage
(the secret to a slimmer body), Liftmassage (for
younger looking skin, facelifting), laser hair removal,
facial treatments and body massages, hot stone
massages, manicures and pedicures. The Miracle
beauty and spa salon staff is pleasant and willing
to prepare individual procedures to your wish! We
are looking forward to your visit!
April - May 2009
78 HEALTH & BEAUTY LIFESTYLE DIRECTORY 79

Tawan - Thai massages
Náměstí Curieových 100,
tel. 234 614 163/721
731 401, hotelpresident@
tawan.cz, www.tawan.cz.
Tawan has a variety of treat-
ments including a classic Thai
massage, an aroma oil mas-
T
seur’s attentive and respectful touch invites you to relax,
helps to increase the body’s sensitivity and enhances life
energy and joy. Bookings are by appointment only. QOpen
9:00 - 22:00.
Thai Fit Na Poříčí 21, tel. 224 81 18 76, www.thaifit.
cz. The aroma of the adjacent Siam Orchid restaurant adds
to the ambience of this great place and inspires what to
do post massage. Eat. Anyway, the masseuse here was
Bowling Centrum RAN I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 10,
tel. 221 03 30 20/739 02 65 58, www.bowlingran.cz.
Twinkle your toes right under the noses of the posh-nobs
upstairs in the Marriott. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
Bowling Club K-4, Praha 3, Bořivojova 83, tel. 222 72
11 24, www.bowling-zizkov.cz. QOpen 15:00 - 02:00,
Sun 15:00 - 24:00.
Kingpin G-2, Praha 6, Milady Horákové 109, tel. 224 39

strong and achieved an incredible amount of vertebrae 62 64. Every kind of youth wasting facility - bowling, darts,
CO %

sage and a detox massage,

N

popping, exactly what the neck was in need of. Calm, quiet pool, booze. QOpen 14:00 - 02:00.
I S 20
U

plus bod y treatments like
peelings and wraps. Their
most popular therapies use
hot herbal packs. Some of
D
and recommended. 600Kč for one hour traditional Thai. Magic Club Praha 8, U Libeňského pivovaru 59, tel.
QOpen 9:00 - 21:00. 284 82 36 66. QOpen 16:00 - 02:00.
Thai Orchidea F-4, Praha 1, Jindřišská 5, MMůstek, Radava SC Praha 7, Milady Horákové 37, tel. 233 10 12

their specials are interesting
too, like the one-and-a-half hour foot and hand massage,
ORCHIDEA or the Coconut Dream featuring an aroma massage using
tel. 222 22 22 31, info@thai-orchidea.cz, www.thai-or- 13, fax 233 38 37 92, radava@radava.cz, www.radava.
chidea.cz. Tired back or legs? Revive them at Thai Orchidea. cz. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00.
The pros here will focus on your sore points; or for an all-out

Jindřišská 5, Prague 1
tel. 222 222 231
www.thai-orchidea.cz
Pediatric Health Centre Prague Praha 4, Ke Spofě
7, tel. 244 40 31 14, www.pediatrie.cz. English-language
pre-natal care and classes available. Call ahead. QOpen ,
Mon, Thu 09:00 - 14:00, Tue 13:00 - 18:00, Wed 15:00 -
19:00, Fri 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
Poliklinika na Národní D-4, Praha 1, Národní 9 (3rd floor),
tel. 222 07 51 20/606 46 16 28, fax 224 21 50 59, www.
poliklinika.narodni.cz. Emergency tel. 606 89 38 35.QA
Polyclinic D-4, Praha 1, Národní 9, MNárodní třída, tel.
222 075 120, poliklinika@narodni.cz, www.poliklinika.
narodni.cz. 25 physicians, all fluent in English (also some
German, Russian and French spoken). Preventative care and
travel vaccinations, US visa medical, dental, physio, home
visits and 24hr emergency coverage. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. 24hr emergency, tel. 777 94 22 70. Lab
opens at 08:00. A
Unicare Praha 6, Na Dlouhém lánu 11, tel. 235 35 65
53/608 10 30 60, fax 235 35 52 02, www.unicare.cz.
24-hour call service. Take tram N°2, 20, & 26 or bus N°116,
131 & 132. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed
Sun. Also at Průhonice, Kosatcová 420, tel. 267 75 04 27.
Open: Mon, FriInYourPocket.ai
09:00 - 15:00, Tue, Thu22:40:32
18.5.2008 09:00 - 20:00, Wed
09:00 - 18:00. A
Enter the world
of Thai massages...
Oskar - Salvátorská 10
tel. +420 224 815 730
Hotel President - Nám. Curieových 100
tel. +420 234 614 163
www.tawan.cz
coconut oil. They offer gift certificates so you can give
the gift of calm. Tawan is located in the Hotel President
and they have three other locations; one inside the
Holiday Inn Prague Congress Center, another in Prague
1 at Salvátorská 10 and the third at Golf Yacht Prague
in Prague 8, U Libenskeho mostu 1.QOpen, Mon, Tue,
Wed, Thu, Fri 7:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 9:00 - 21:00. 450-
2190kč. JA
Massage
Mystic Buddha F-2, Dlouhá 39, tel. 221 77 95 10,
www.mysticbuddha.cz. Emphasis is on balance and
harmony. Indi vidual rooms provide extra pri vacy and
English speakers make life easier for any instructions.
In addition to Thai massage, they offer classic mas-
sage, cosmetic treatments, a hair salon, manicures
and pedicures. Tr y the hot stones. One hour Thai mas-
sage is 950Kč. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00. Winter hours:
9:00-21:00
Nam Jai Thai Massage D-2, Kaprova 11, tel. 222
32 87 47, www.namjai.cz. Here you’ll get an authentic,
stretching, vertebrae popping session of traditional Wat
Pho massage. Back & Head, Foot and oil massages are
also available. One hour Thai massage 700Kč. QOpen
10:00 - 22:00.
Sabai Na Příkope 22, tel. 221 45 11 80, www.sabai.cz.
By far the smartest and most expensive of the Thai massage
options here, but is it worth it? Well, yes it is. Quiet and pri-
vate - even the foot massage rooms are individual. Excellent
staff, English spoken and relaxed ambience. Traditional Thai
990Kč for one hour. Reservations recommended. QOpen
10:00 - 22:00.
Sawasdee Foot Massage Rytiřská 19, tel. 224 22
61 05. From the tinkling fountain to the comfy chairs and
the characteristic menthol smell, this place looks authentic
but unfortunately the foot massage is not. Pain and Porn
are just two of the masseuses who might work on you, but
ours was Thai Massage Lite. We kept waiting for it to kick in
to no avail. 600Kč for a lacklustre Thai massage. Relaxing,
yes, but not therapeutic. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.
NEW
Tantra Masáže Praha 3, Ondříčkova 32, tel. 603 18 50
66, tantramasaze@seznam.cz, www.tantramasaze.com.
Experience a completely different kind of massage. Tantra
massage is a combination of ancient tantra-tao techniques
and classic massage. Reservations required. QOpen 07:00
- 22:00. 150 - 230 EUR.
Tantra Spa Praha 10, 28.pluku 18, tel. 777 85 88
64, info@tantraspa.cz, www.tantraspa.cz. A unique
experience for those looking to relax and perhaps expand
their sexual energy. A tantra massage is one that combines
a classic massage with elements of the tantra. The mas-
body work over choose their traditional Thai massage, or
special oil Thai massage. You’ll leave stress-free and ready
to take on the city. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Traditional Thai
massage: 1 hour, 600kč.
Thai World Celená 6, tel. 224 81 72 47, www.thai-
world.cz. This used to be the place to go but it seems
they are resting on their laurels a tad. The masseuse spent
more time massaging with one hand in order to hold open
the curtain to see what/who was going on outside. She did
notice pain in the shoulder which she applied Tiger Balm
to. Good, not great. 599Kč for one hour traditional Thai.
QOpen 9:00 - 22:00.
Zen Studio Praha 1, Široká 11, MStaroměstská, tel.
222 31 72 22, zenstudio@zenstudio.cz, www.zenstudio.
cz. Calm and tranquillity is the name of the game here. Zen
Studio offers Thai massage, aromatic oil massage, herbal
massage, plus they have a Jacuzzi and sauna. Their certi-
fied therapists will reduce tension while relaxing your body.
Take a moment for Zen now. QOpen Noon - 22:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 22:00.
Billiards
Billard Centrum F-4, Praha 1, V Cípu 1, tel. 720 15
20 44, www.billiardcentrum.cz. A huge old building hid-
den down an alley in the centre - the well worn grandure is
explained in part by the fact that this used to house prancing
horses and now houses those looking to bowl, play pool,
snooker or billiards, table tennis, darts, surf the net, or just
get blind drunk for cheap. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. Also at
Praha 5, Stroupežnického 1, tel. 257 31 06 57.
Billiard Club Harlequin J-5, Praha 2, Vinohradská
25, tel. 224 21 72 40, www.harlequin.zde.cz. QOpen
14:00 - 04:00.
Café Louvre D-4, Praha 1, Národní třída 22, tel. 224 93
09 49, cafelouvre@cafelouvre.cz, www.cafelouvre.cz.
QOpen 08:00 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:30.
Bowling
Acord Bowling Club Praha 4, Rostislavova 19, tel. 261
21 75 63. Take tram N°11 or 56. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00.
Beer and Bowling Diner Praha 4, Kongresová 1 (Corin-
thia Towers Hotel), tel. 261 19 11 51, fax 261 22 50 11,
towers@corinthia.cz, www.corinthia.cz. Ten-pin chaos on
top of the city. QOpen 14:00 - 24:00. A
Bowling Bar I-4, Praha 1, Senovážné nám. 21 (Hotel
Junior), tel. 605 27 88 57, fax 224 24 70 45, info@
bowling-praha.cz, www.volny.cz/bowlingcz. Q Open
16:00 - 02:00. Also at K-6, Praha 10, Ruská 88, tel. 271 73
23 71. Open 15:00 - 01:00.
Bowling bar U Viktorky Praha 3, Seifertova 49, tel.
222 54 31 24. QOpen , Mon, Tue, Sun 14:00 - 24:00, Wed,
Thu, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 02:00.
Fitness centres
Cybex Praha 8, Pobřežní 1 (Hotel Hilton), tel. 224 84 27
13, fax 224 84 23 72, info@cybexprg.cz, www.ecybex.
cz. Delightful, top-quality surroundings and equipment for you
to exert yourself in/on/with. We suppose if you’re going to
suffer, you may as well do it in style. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00,
Sat, Sun 07:00 - 22:00.
Delroy’s Gym Praha 5, Zborovská 4, tel. 257 32 70
42, info@delroys-gym.cz, www.delroys-gym.cz. Karate,
tae kwan do, kickboxing and all sorts of other ways to ex-
ercise your aggression. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 20:00.
Holmes Place Prague 5, Plzeňská 8, MAnděl, tel. 257
313 830. Deluxe health club inside the Nový Smíchov mall.
Level 25 Praha 4, Kongresová 1 (Corinthia Towers
Hotel), tel. 261 19 13 26, fax 261 22 50 11, towers@
corinthia.cz, www.corinthia.cz. QOpen 07:00 - 22:30,
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:30.
Oasis CITY relaxation centre I-4, Prague 1,
Wenceslas Square 36, MARKS & SPENCER Building,
MMůstek, tel. 224 210 146, fax 224 247 198, info@
oasiscity.cz, www.OasisCity.cz. While you pamper yourself
using the imaginative and superbly appointed facilities, your
child can enjoy the excitement and adventure of Robinson
Crusoe’s Island. Oasis CITY is a secret paradise in the centre
of Wenceslas Square where you can indulge yourself, revital-
ize your energy and enthusiasm for life. Restaurant & cafe,
Children’s corner, conference centre & VIP club, accommoda-
tion, parking, fitness centre, aqua spa, manicure, pedicure,
solarium, sauna, massage, hairdressing, cosmetic. QOpen
08:00 - 21:00. ADHKLRTU
Sportcentrum YMCA I-3, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 12, tel.
224 87 58 11, fax 224 87 58 18, info@scymca.cz, www.
scymca.cz. Sweat away the kilos in the fitness centre or
sauna then cool down by taking a dip in the swimming pool
or by getting a massage. QOpen 06:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 21:00.
Top Deck Praha 4, Milevská 7 (Corinthia Panorama
Hotel), tel. 261 16 47 91, www.corinthia.cz. QOpen
06:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 23:00.
Wellness Centrum Praha 3, Seifertova 49, tel. 222 54
05 83, fittop@volny.cz, http://fittop.autotopcentrum.
cz. Cheap and cheerful. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 20:00.
World Class Fitness Center Praha 1, Václavské nám.
22, MMůstek, tel. 234 69 91 00, www.worldclassfit-
ness.net. Definitely world class. Superb. QOpen 06:00
- 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:00.
World Class Health Academy I-3, Praha1, V Cel-
nici 10 (Millennium Plaza), MNám. Republiky, tel.
221 03 30 33, www.worldclassfitness.net. Another
world class facility. Q Open 06:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun
08:00 - 21:00.

Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com April - May 2009

 ADULT ENTERTAINMENT
Prague is as famous for its sex clubs as it is for its beer. Stag
nights take advantage of the price and availability of both,
and on the whole these clubs are well organised and clean.
Safe sex is practiced, and bouncers and/or managers will
explain the rules and methods of each place on arrival. It is
cheaper to partake over here, but that does not mean you
won’t pay for the privilege of watching a live sex or lesbian
show. Generally, you’ll have to pay an entrance fee (around
500Kč) to sit at the bar; this fee is waived if you are there to
pay for other services immediately. Many of the central clubs
pay men and women to entice you off the street and into their
nearby establishments, but if you’re heading somewhere
by taxi, make sure you’re taken to the one you want to go to
rather than the one the taxi driver gets commission from.
Check prices of services and drinks, and enjoy…
Big Sister Praha 5, Nádražní 46, tel. 257 31 00 43/257
31 00 44, bigsister@bigsister.net, www.bigsister.net. Forget
about big brother watching you, this is voyeurism Big Sister style.
Prague’s first online brothel has 40 girls, 58 cameras and you being
beamed live onto the internet via 17 videostreams. Pay a 500 CZK
entrance, sign away your anonymity (masks are not allowed) and
the girls are free. Add the theme rooms, pool, sauna, and showbar
with lap dancers, Big Sister is one unique experience. Visit on a
Saturday or Sunday to take advantage of their special parties.
Must be reserved in advance; check their frequently updated
website for the latest action. QOpen 18:00 - 04:00. A
Carioca E-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 1, MMůstek, tel.
296 32 53 14. A large open room with a central stage hosts
girls galore doing the can-can and go-go, plus strip and lesbian
shows. The place resembles a wedding reception complete
with faux Louis XIV furniture, but you lads aren’t here for the
décor, now are you? QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. AP
prague.inyourpocket.com
81
K5 Relax Club J-5, Praha 2,
Korunní 5, MNám. Míru, tel.
224 25 05 05, www.k5relax.
cz. The best club in Prague, and
considered by experts as one of
the top sex clubs any where in
Central Europe. From friendly doormen to the hands-on
management who will answer all of your questions in as
many languages as you can imagine, to the lovely girls
who will look after your every wish, this place has it all. A
computerised payment system ensures that you will not
be ripped off. We cannot recommend K5 more. QOpen
16:00 - 04:00. A
C l u b 1 6 1 K-2, Praha 8, Sokolovská 161,
MKřižíkova, tel. 284 81 02 62, 161@nightclub161.
cz, www.club161.cz. A small residential house hosts
from two (in the day) to 12 lovely girls for your pleasure.
Downstairs is a bar and pole for strip and lesbian shows,
while upstairs you can take your pick of four rooms and/
or a Jacuzzi. An S&M room has toys, PVC ever y thing
and whips if that’s your bag, baby. Free entrance and
decent bar prices. Q Open 12:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun
20:00 - 06:00. AL
Club 600 Praha 3, Koněvova 66, tel. 222 58 61 28,
www.c600.cz. Cosy club offering all the fun of the fair from
three in the afternoon to the very early hours of the morn-
ing. Always a good number of Czech girls on hand to provide
you with whatever assistance and relaxation you may need.
QOpen 19:00 - 05:00.
April - May 2009
82 ADULT ENTERTAINMENT
Darling Cabaret
124_921.indd 1 I-5, Praha 1, Ve Smečkách 32a,
MMuzeum, www.kabaret.cz. One of the biggest and
most popular of the adult clubs in town but it’s not cheap
as it caters for the comparatively rich tourists. Head over
to Václavské nám. and just try to miss it... you’ve probably
seen and been photographed next to their limo too. Watch
cabaret, lesbian shows, Thai Fire shows and table dancing
courtesy of 150-200 girls a night. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00,
Tue 20:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00.
Escade I-7, Praha 4, Křesomyslova 5, tel. 241 40 98 88,
www.escade.cz. Tucked down in Nusle is Escade, home to
Hot Pepper’s F-4, Praha 1, Vá-
clavské nám. 21, MMuzeum, tel.
724 13 40 11, www.hotpeppers.
cz. Hot Pepper’s - Gate to Hell is an
original, exclusive club. Next door
to the disco Duplex, it’s the ideal
combination of cabaret dancers
and champagne consumption; all
with a professional presentation.
The V.I.P. Champagne Lounge, with its choice of many
exquisite brands of bubbly, can’t be found anywhere else.
The all-night programme includes exotic and cancan
dancers; a lesbian show, stag show and even private
rooms. Benefits include free entry, every second beer
free, discount vouchers for 5 and 10 beers, and many
more attractive offers. Plus, the party can go on as long
as you wish - there’s no closing time at Hot Pepper’s.
Excepts all credit cards, including American Express.
QOpen 20:30 - 05:00. PJA
Prague In Your Pocket
thirty girls every night for your viewing (and more)11:53:54
1.8.2008 pleasure.
Get comfortable in the sofa-laden bar before taking your pick
of one of their spacious rooms, sauna or whirlpool. The usual
strip and erotic shows are crowd pleasers, and Escade also
offers soft S&M, services for couple, special private arrange-
ments and an escort service. Just in case you go overboard,
there’s an ATM. Q Open 24 hrs. AP
Exclusive Club Praha 10, Šrobárova 6, MFlora, tel.
776 88 55 22, info@exclusive-club.cz, www.exclusive-
club.cz. Strip clubs are a dime a dozen in Prague, but
Exclusive Club has raised the bar. Newly open; they take
reservations, have a VIP room, free entry and everyone
gets a welcome drink. Lovely ladies and an events calen-
dar; Exclusive Club is worth the slightly out of centre trip.
QOpen Noon - 5am.
Extasy Cabaret Praha 3, Chlumova 13, tel. 222 78
00 48/777 206 006, www.extasy.cz. Extasy offers a
courtesy car from anywhere in Prague and a free welcome
drink for punters. This is a well-known place for quality girls
and imaginative shows, for example, Cheryl and her drill - use
that imagination… yup, that’s right. Anyway, it’s all air condi-
tioned, they have a bar with dance, erotic and lesbian shows,
massage, plus various rooms and even a waterbed. Extasy
also hosts film and photo shoots. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00,
Sat, Sun 20:00 - 06:00. A
Follow Me Praha 7, Na Šachtě 5, tel. 608 84 41 43,
www.followme.cz. Follow me to a place where you can get
away from it all and enjoy the delights of erotic girls there just
to please you. And believe us, they will. Drinks, free transport,
low prices but above all, hot chicks. Near the Výstaviště
grounds in Holešovice. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00.
prague.inyourpocket.com
84 ADULT ENTERTAINMENT
Goldfinger’s E-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 4, MMůstek,
tel. 222 19 38 56. No sex please, we’re British. This is not
the call of either James Bond or the stag-partier, but that
is the ethic at Goldfinger’s, the classiest strip joint in town.
It’s not cheap but then again, the girls aren’t either. QOpen
21:00 - 04:00. AP
Laura Club Praha 3, Jeseniova 166, tel. 271 77 46
90, www.lauraclub.cz. Great little club in Žižkov where you
can enjoy lovely Czech girls strip for you three nights a week
before escorting one to a private room to help you drink your
sparkling wine. When there is no strip action there are still
always plenty of girls ready to entertain you in as many ways
as you can imagine. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. A
Prague’s only cabaret Lotos Club Praha 4, Kupeckého 832, MHáje, tel.
272 91 68 25, www.lotos.cz. Newly renovated and still
at hotel Ambassador specialising in the discreet luxury niche. Lotos is modelled on
a gentleman’s club although with the added bonus of young
girls, pool and S&M room for starters. Choose from over 20
quality girls a night. Free entrance voucher on the website.
The Luxurious cabaret
in the centre
of Prague Q Open 24hrs. A
original
l Neon Club Balbinová 21, MMuzeum, tel. 222 25 01
05/733 12 10 22, www.neonclub.cz. The Neon Club of-
fers three exotic floors of strippers, lap dancers and escort
services. The first floor will amuse with its selection of sex
toys; while the second has a reasonably priced cocktail bar
and dancing girls. Ascend to the third and you can catch a
game in their sports bar. QOpen 12:00 - 5:00.
Red Light Praha K-1, Praha 7, Bubenské nábř., MVl-
tavská, tel. 261 31 41 51, www.redlight.cz. In the middle
of Holešovice market is Prague’s very own little Amsterdam.
Red Light is a whole melange of saucy goings on in one loca-
ladies and gentlemen, tion. You will find an Amsterdam/Frankfurt style sex supermar-
casual or business-travellers, ket, a red light centre with a peep show and video rooms and
the Pleasure sex shop selling saucy souvenirs for the boys and
girls back home. Q Sex Park open 24hrs, shop open Mon-Fri
stag parties or hen 10:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-15:00, closed Sun. A
you all are welcome Sugar’s Cabaret I-5, Praha 1, Krakovská 25, MMuze-
um, tel. 222 21 07 96. Get a free beer while you watch one
to Goldfingers of their strip, lesbian or auto-erotic shows. If you so desire,
have extra sugar in your bowl with a choice of seven rooms
– one has a whirlpool. Various theme nights spice things up
too. QOpen 19:00 - 07:00. AP
Sweet Paradise Praha 3, Slezská 75, MJiřího z
Poděbrad, tel. 737 66 82 33/272 73 29 06, www.
Air conditioned sweetparadise.cz. Boasting 12-20 (of 50) girls available per
night, this is a more local affair offering beer and girls, the most
famous of Czech commodities. All sorts available from shows
at the tiki bar, basic theme rooms, ‘special’ services and long
term escorts. Print the discount voucher from the website.
Foreign currency accepted. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. A
open daily:
y:: Velvet Praha 4, Ve Svahu 13, MVyšehrad, tel. 241 43
26 74, www.velvetclub.cz. The self-proclaimed ‘flagship
8 pm - 4 am
m of erotic’ calls for all hands on deck a short taxi ride south
of the centre. Amenities include bubble baths, video, free
minibar and escort services. Call ahead and a taxi will pick
you up free of charge. Q Open 24hrs. A
Václavské náměstí 5, 110 00 Praha 1, tel.: +420 608 663 066
www.goldfingers.cz
For more entertainment:
www.inyourpocket.com
Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com
GETTING AROUND
Airline offices
AeroSvit D-3, Praha 1, Husova 5, tel. 224 24 88 28, fax
224 24 85 14, www.aerosvit.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Air Europa F-2, Praha 1, Týnská 21, tel. 224 80 83 86,
fax 224 80 83 88, www.aireuropa.com. Spanish based
airline offering deals to Spain and North Africa with connec-
tions to the Caribbean and South America.
Air France I-5, Praha 1, Jungmannova 34, tel. 233 09
09 33, fax 233 09 09 03, www.airfrance.com. QOpen
08:30 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Airport office, tel. 220 11 37
37, open 06:15 - 21:00.
Alitalia E-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 11, tel. 222 09
09 19, fax 221 43 46 30, www.alitalia.cz. Q Open
09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Airport office, tel. 220 11 45
04, open 06:30 - 18:30.
Austrian Airlines F-2, Praha 6, Aviatická 12 - Ruzyně
Airport, tel. 227 23 12 31, fax 224 28 10 43, www.
austrianairlines.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
bmibaby , www.bmibaby.com. UK based airline with
direct low cost flights to Birmingham, Cadiff, Manchester
and Nottingham.
British Airways F-3, Praha 6, Ruzyně Airport (Terminal
North), tel. 239 00 02 99, fax 239 00 02 88, www.brit-
ishairways.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Czech Airlines (ČSA) I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 5, tel. 239
00 70 07, fax 224 31 42 73, www.czech-airlines.com.
QOpen 08:00 - 18:30. Closed Sun. Airport office tel. 220
11 11 11, open 24hrs.
Delta Airlines GSA D-4, Praha 1, Národní 32, tel. 224
94 67 33, fax 224 94 67 31, www.delta-air.cz. QOpen
09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
easyJet Letiště Ruzyně, tel. 0044 87 06 00 00 00,
www.easyjet.com. Direct low cost flights to Basel, Dort-
mund, Bristol, London Gatwick & Stanstead, Newcastle and
Nottingham.
flyglobespan , www.flyglobespan.com. Low cost airline
with bases in England and Ireland and flights across Europe,
Canada, the US and South Africa.
Germanwings , tel. 800 14 22 87, www.germanwings.
com. Direct budget flights from Prague to Cologne-Bonn and
Stuttgart. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
KLM (Royal Dutch Airlines) F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě
21, tel. 233 09 09 33, fax 224 21 69 06, www.klm.cz.
QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Airport office tel. 220 11 41 48,
open 09:00 - 17:00.
Lufthansa Praha 6, Aviatická 1048 - Ruzyně Airport,
tel. 234 00 82 34, fax 234 00 82 95, www.lufthansa.
cz. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
SAS (Scandinavian Airlines) Praha 6, Aviatická 12
- Airport Business Centrum, tel. 220 11 60 31, fax 220
11 53 06, www.scandinavian.net. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
SkyEurope Praha 6, K letišti 1017, tel. 246 09 60 96,
www.skyeurope.com. Destinations (some seasonal) from
Prague to Paris, Nice, Amsterdam, Rome, Naples, Milan,
Barcelona, plus many in and out of Slovakia & Poland. New
winter flights from Prague to Grenoble & Turin. QOpen 07:00
- 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.
Smart Wings Praha 6, K letišti 1068/30, tel. 900 16
65 65 , www.smartwings.net. Not so low cost flights to
19 European cities in Holland, Belgium, Denmark, Spain, Italy,
France, Hungary, Greece, Cyprus and Bulgaria. QOpen 08:00
- 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Swiss Air H-5, Praha 1, Lazarská 8/13, tel. 221 99 04
44, fax 221 99 04 45, www.swiss.cz. QOpen 08:30
- 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Airport office tel. 220 11 38 40,
open 06:00 - 19:00.
prague.inyourpocket.com
85
Car rental
Avis I-3, Praha 1, Klimentská 46, tel. 221 85 12 25,
fax 221 85 12 29, www.avis.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Budget E-1, Praha 1, nám. Curierových 5 (InterCon-
tinental Hotel), tel. 296 63 09 95, fax 222 31 95 95,
www.budget.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Airport office, tel.
220 11 32 53, open 08:00 - 22:00. Reservation centre tel.
235 32 57 13. A
Europcar E-2, Praha 1, Pařížská 28, tel. 224 80 58
88, fax 224 80 51 46, www.europcar.cz. Q Open
08:00 - 20:00. Airport office tel. 235 36 45 31, open 08:00
- 22:00. A
Hertz H-5, Praha 2, Karlovo nám. 15, tel. 225 34 50 31,
fax 225 34 50 39, www.hertz.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
Also at Praha 6, Evropská 15 (Diplomat Hotel), tel. 225 34 50
41, open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat & Sun. Airport office tel.
225 34 50 21, open 08:00 - 22:00.
National Car Rental Praha 5, Za Opravnou 1, tel.
224 92 37 19, fax 224 91 30 51, www.nationalcar.cz.
QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Airport office tel. 220
11 45 54, open 08:00 - 22:00, closed Sat & Sun.
Sixt J-3, Praha 8, Pobřežní 1 (Hilton Hotel), tel. 222 32
49 95, fax 224 84 23 13, www.e-sixt.cz. Book online for
some of good rental rates. And check out their even more
budget version at www.sixti.com. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.
Airport office tel. 220 11 53 46, open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat,
Sun 08:00 - 20:00.
Taxis
AAA - Radiotaxi tel. 222 33 32 22, www.aaa-radiotaxi.
cz. The most reputable company in town. Ordering by SMS is
possible at tel. 606 99 90 69 but requires preregistration.
Prague Airport Transfers tel. 800 87 08 88, www.
prague-airport-transfers.co.uk. Convenient transport
services. English speaking drivers who not only will get you
where you need to be, but provide you with a map, visitor
information and a dining guide. Excellent prices and easy
online booking.
Travel agencies
Condor H-5, Praha 1, Štěpánská 45, tel. 225 00 02 25,
www.condor.cz. Airline tickets. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Čedok F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 18, tel. 800 11 21 12,
www.cedok.cz. Bus and train tickets available with only a
scowl rather than the growl that is offered at the station.
QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Euroagentur Praha Praha 10, K Horkám 23, tel. 271 09
08 31, fax 271 75 02 74, www.euroagentur.cz. QOpen
08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Fischer E-3, Praha 1, Provaznická 13, tel. 800 12 10
10, www.fischer.cz. One of the largest operators in the
Czech Republic. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00,
Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
GTS International I-5, Praha 1, Ve Smečkách 33, tel.
222 11 97 00, www.gtsint.cz. Flight and bus tickets, with
special deals for students and under-24s. QOpen 08:00 -
18:00, Sat 9:00 - -4:00. Closed Sun.
Mary’s Travel & Tourist Services J-5, Praha 2, Ital-
ská 31, tel. 222 25 40 07, www.marys.cz. Mary’s staff
can book accommodation and tours in seven languages.
Specialised in the Czech republic and Hungary. QOpen
08:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.
TBS I-6, Praha 2, Koubkova 13, tel. 222 51 23 05, www.
tbs.cz. Specialised in business and congress travel. QOpen
08:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
April - May 2009
86 STREET REGISTER
17. listopadu D-2 Chotkova B-1 Martinská D-4 Pod Bruskou C-1 U Milosrdných E-1
28. října E-4 Jáchymova E-2 Masná E-2 Politických vězňů F-4 U Obecního domu F-3
Alšovo nábřeží D-2 Jakubská F-3 Melantrichova E-3 Prašný most A-1 U Obecního dvora E-2
Anenská D-3 Jalovcová D-3 Michalská E-3 Prokopská B-2 U Plovárny D-1
Anenské Nám. D-3 Jánský vršek A-2 Mikovcova I-5 Provaznická E-3 U Prašné brány F-3
Anežská F-1 Jilská D-3 Mikulandská D-4 Průchodní D-4 U Radnice E-3
Bartolomějská D-4 Jindřišská F-4 Mikulášská E-3 Rámová F-2 U Sovových mlýnů B-3
Benediktská F-2 Jiřská B-1 Míšeňská B-2 Revoluční F-2 U Staré školy E-2
Besední B-4 Josefská B-2 Most Legií C-4 Růžová F-4 U Starého hřbitova D-2
Betlémská D-4 K Haštalu F-1 Mostecká B-2 Rybná F-2 U Sv. Ducha E-2
Betlémské Nám. D-4 Kamzíková E-3 Na Františku E-1 Rytířská E-4 U Zlaté studně B-1
Bílkova E-2 Kaprova D-2 Na Kampě B-3 Řásnovka F-1 U Železné lávky C-1
Boršov D-4 Karlova D-3 Na Můstku E-4 Řetězová D-3 Uhelný trh E-4
Břehová D-1 Karlův most C-3 Na Opyši C-1 Říční B-4 Újezd A-4
Břetislavova A-2 Karmelitská B-3 Na Perštýně D-4 Salvátorská E-2 V Cípu F-4
Celetná F-3 Karolíny Světlé C-4 Na Příkopě F-3 Saská B-2 V Kolkovně E-2
Cihelná C-2 Klárov C-1 Na Rejdišti D-2 Seminářská D-3 V Kotcích E-4
Čechův most D-1 Klášterská F-1 Na Zábradlí C-3 Senovážná F-3 Václavské Nám. F-4
Červená E-2 Konviktská D-4 Náb. Ed. Beneše C-1 Skořepka D-4 Valdštejnská C-1
Divadelní C-4 Kosárkovo náb. D-1 Nám. Curieových E-1 Smetanovo náb. C-4 Valdštejnské Nám. B-1
Dlouhá E-2 Kostečná E-2 Nám. Franze Kafky E-3 Sněmovní B-2 Valentinská D-2
Dražického B-2 Kozí E-1 Nám. J. Palacha D-2 Spálená D-4 Vejvodova D-3
Dražického Nám. B-2 Kožná E-3 Nám. U sv. Jiří A-1 Staré zámecké schody B-1 Veleslavínova D-2
Dušní E-1 Králodvorská F-3 Náměstí Republiky F-2 Staroměstské Nám. E-3 Velkopřevorské Nám. B-3
Dvořákovo nábř. D-1 Krocínova C-4 Náprstkova D-3 Stříbrná D-3 Vězeňská E-2
E. Krásnohorské E-2 Křižovnická D-3 Národní D-4 Šeříková B-4 Vikářská A-1
Harantova B-3 Křižovnické Nám. D-3 Nebovidská B-3 Široká D-2 Vítězná B-4
Haštalská F-2 Lázeňská B-2 Nekázanka F-3 Štefánikův most F-1 Vlašská A-2
Haštalské Nám. F-2 Letenská B-2 Nerudova A-2 Štupartská F-2 Voršilská D-4
Havelská E-3 Liliová D-3 Nosticova B-3 Templová F-3 Všehrdova B-4
Havelská ulička E-3 Linhartská D-3 Novotného lávka C-3 Thunovská A-2 Za Haštalem F-2
Havířská E-3 Maiselova D-2 Olivová F-4 Tomášská B-2 Zámecká A-2
Hellichova A-3 Malá Klášterní F-1 Ovocný trh F-3 Tržiště A-2 Zámecké schody A-1
Hlavsova E-3 Malé Nám. E-3 Panská F-4 Týnská F-2 Zlatá D-3
Hradčanské nám A-1 Malostranské náb. B-4 Pařížská E-1 Týnská ulička E-2 Zlatá ulička B-1
Hradební F-2 Malostranské Nám. B-2 Pelclova B-3 U Bruských kasáren C-1 Žatecká D-2
Hroznová B-3 Maltézské Nám. B-3 Perlová E-4 U Dobřenských D-4 Železná E-3
Husova D-3 Mánesův most C-2 Plaská B-4 U Lanové dráhy A-4
Charvátova E-4 Mariánské Nám. D-3 Platnéřská D-2 U Lužického sem. C-2

Ordinary operation - Effective from 9.5.2008

BUS 119, 254, AE

to
Ruzyně Airport

BUS 100
to
Ruzyně Airport

BUS 179
to
Ruzyně Airport

Metro

Changing station

Change to ČD trains/S lines

Infocentre

P+R Parking lot

Bus to Ruzyně Airport infoline

Funicular to Petřín

Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com

90 INDEX
Abaton 59 Celnice 33, 59 Gusto 48 Mirellie 43 St. Nicholas Church 66
Absolut 24 Century Casino Millennium 58 Hanabi Hibachi House 43 Mirror Labyrinth 72 Století 34
Adagio 54 Čertovka 71 Hapu 55 Modrá Růže 27 Stone Bell House 70
Adventure Playground 71 Chanchala 37 Hard Rock Cafe 32 Modrý zub 48 Strahov Monastery 66
AghaRTA Jazz Centrum 62 Charles Bridge 65 Harlequin 55 Molly Malone's 62 Sts. Cyril and Methodius
Akord 62 Charles University Botanical Harley's 55 Molotow Cocktail Bar 56 Church 67
Akropolis 43, 59 Gardens 73 Hergetova Cihelna 38 Monarch 49 Studio 54 60
Allegro 37 Chateau Rouge 54 Hilton Prague 22 Mövenpick 27 Sudička 58
Aloha Wave Lounge 54 Chateau St. Havel 25 Hilton Prague Old Town 22 Mozart Museum 69 Sugar's Cabaret 84
Ambassador Casino 57 Chez Amis 35 Historical Museum 67 Mucha Museum 69 Sushi Bar 43
Ambiente Living 31 Choco-Story: The Chocolate Hokkaido 43 Municipal House 65 Suterén 41
Ambiente Pasta Fresca 37 Museum 71 Holiday Inn 27 Museum of Communism 69 Svatá Klára 41
Ametyst 24 Christie 28 Hong Kong 36 Museum Pension 30 Švejk 34
Amici Miei 42 Chudoba 33 Hospoda Lucerna 55 Mušketýr 30 Swank 58
Amigos 44 Church of Our Lady Hotel Anděl 28 Muzeum Karlova Mostu 69 Sweet Paradise 84
Amour Hotel Residence 29 Victorious 66 Hotel Černý slon 27 Nagoya 43 Taj Mahal 37
Andel's 24 Cicala 42 Hotel Neruda 27 Náměstí Míru 72 Tandoor 37
Angel 48 Cigars and Coffee 50 Hot Pepper's 82 National Memorial 72 Techtle Mechtle 41
Angelo Hotel 24 Cihelna Barfly 38 House at the White Unicorn National Museum 69 Termix 61
Angus Restaurant 31 City Bike 73 69 National Theatre 65 Thai Spice 35
Ankora 27 City Cafe Cosmopolit 38 Huang He 36 Nebe 60 The Beer Factory 63
Anna 27 City Museum 67 Hybernia 38 Neon Club 84 The Dancing House 72
Antik City 24 Cityrama Prague 70 Ibis Praha City 28 NOI 48 The Pack 63
Apart Karee 29 City Walks 73 Ibis Praha Smíchov 28 Nordica 52 The Saints 61
Apartments in Prague 29 Claris 28 Il Giardino 38 Nostitz 40 Tlustá koala 63
Apartments OASIS City 29 Clear Head 49 InterContinental Praha 22 Nostress 40 Top Secret Club 60
Apostolic Residence 24 Cloud 9 54 Irish Club Prague 55 Novoměstský pivovar 32 Torture Museum 70
Appia Residences 29 Club 161 81 Jáma 32 Obyčejný svět 40 Town Hall & Astronomical
Apropos 38 Club 600 81 Jazz Boat 62 Old Prague Hostel 30 clock 65
AquaPalace Aqua Park 71 Coffee Fellows 50 Jet Set 56 Old Town Square 65 Toy Museum 72
Aquapalace Hotel 24 Coffeeheaven 50 J.J.Murphy's 62 Olympos 36 Transport Museum 70
Aria 22 Coloseum 45 Josef 23 Osteria De Clara 43 Tretters 58
Ariana 31 Corinthia Panorama 26 K5 Relax Club 81 Ouky Douky 52 Trilobit 58
Ariston 28 Corinthia Towers 22 Kabul Karolina 31 Our Lady of Snow 66 Troja Chateau 70
Aromi 42 Courtyard Marriott Flora 26 Kafíčko 51 Pálffy Palác 36 Tropison cocktail bar 58
Around Prague Information Courtyard Marriott Prague Kafka Museum 69 Papas 58 TV Tower 72
Centre 66 Airport 27 Kampa Fish 48 Paris 23 U Betlémské Kaple 35
Arpacay Hostel 29 Cowboys Steaks & Cocktails Kampa Museum 69 Park Inn 29 U Bílé krávy 36
Arzenal 48 31 Kampa Park 73 Pekelnej Bar 58 U Budovce 52
Astoria 24 Coyotes 55 Karlín London 51 Petřín 73 U Bukanýra 60
Atlantic 28 Cross Club 59 Karlovy Lázně 59 Petřínské Terasy 38 U Buldoka 60
Au Gourmand 50 Crowne Plaza Prague Castle Káva Káva Káva 51 Petřín Tower 72 U Cedru 44
Azteca 44 26 Kavalír 28 Pizza Nuova 48 U Červeného páva 34
Back Doors 54 Cubism Museum 67 Kavárna Obecní Dům 51 Pizzeria U Tučňáků 40 U Císařů 44
Bambus 54 Cukrkávalimonáda 50 Kavárna Pavilon 52 Planet Sushi 43 U Emy Destinnové 41
Banco Casino 57 Czech Inn 29 Kempinski Hybernská Prague Pod křídlem noci 40 Újezd 61
Bandol 49 Czech Museum of Fine Arts 23 Popocafepetl Music Club 60 U Kalicha 33
Bar and Books 54 67 Klementinum 72 Prague Classic Rental 29 Ultramarin 58
Barceló 24 Dahab 45 Klub 007 Strahov 59 Prague Info 66 U Malého Glena 32, 44, 62
Barceló Praha 25 Dahlia Inn 30 Klub architektů 49 Prague Karting Arena 71 U Malířů 36
Barock 54 Daily Walks 73 Klub Lávka 59 Prague Marriott 23 U Maltézských rytířů 35
Bastille 35 Dancing Fountains 71 Kmotra 48 Prague Sightseeing Tours 70 U Modré růže 35
Beas 49 Darling Cabaret 82 Kogo 42 Prague Square Hostel 30 U Mušketýra 35
Bellevue 38 DC1 55 Koliba U Pastýřky 34 Praha Bike 73 U Neklana 35
Belvedere 25 Decorative Arts Museum 67 Korea House 43 Pravda 40 Ungelt Jazz & Blues Club 62
Best Tour 70 DISK Café 51 Kozička 44, 56 Precious Legacy Tours 70 Universal 41
Best Western Hotel Páv 28 DOX Centre for La Belle Epoque 56 Premiant City Tour 71 U Petrské věže 35
Best Western Premier Hotel Contemporary Art 67 La Boca 32 President 24 U Pinkasů 33
Majestic Plaza 25 Drake's 61 La Bodeguita del Medio 44 Primitiv Pravěk 41 U Provaznice 35
Bethlehem Chapel 66 Dům u velké boty 30 La Casa Argentina 32 Punto Azul 60 U Prstenu 52
Big Sister 81 Duplex 59 La Casa Blů 56 Radisson SAS Alcron 24 U Rudolfa 62
Bílá vrána 33 Dvořák Museum 67 La Creperie 36 Ramada Airport Hotel Prague U Sádlů 44
Blatouch
Blind Eye
Blue Light Bar
54
54
54
Ebel
El Emir
El Gaucho
51
44
32
La Fabrique
Langhans Galerie
L'Angolo
59
69
42
Rasoi
Real Tour
27
37
73
U Sadu
U Sedmi Švábů
U Staré paní
44
44
62
Historical Fantasy Show
Blues Sklep 62 Élite 26 La Rustica 42 Red Hot & Blues 32 U Vodárny 33
Welcome in the tavern, in which you will be taken several
Bohemia 57 Elysee 26 Laura Club 84 Red Light Praha 84 U Zavěšenýho kafe 52 hundred years back in time - as far back as the Middle
Bohemia Bagel 32 Escade 82 Legends 63 Reduta 62 U Závoje 36
Bohemia Travel Service 70 Escape 38, 61 Leica Gallery 69 Repete 58 U Zlatého tygra 63 Ages! From all corners of our tavern you will feel rough, yet
Bokovka 49 Espressamente Illy 51 Lemon Café 52 Restaurant Babylon 45 U Zlaté konvice 35
Bombay Cocktail Bar 54 Esprit Orangerie 38 Lennon Wall 71 Retro Music Hall 60 U Zlaté studně 41 romantic atmosphere of this age. Neither any of the details, nor any
Botanical Gardens 73 Euforia 59 Le Palais 23 Reykjavík 48 Vagon 60
Brasserie La Provence 35 Evropa 28 Le Saint-Jacques 36 Ridgeback 58 Valdštejnská zahrada 73 of the senses have been omitted. There will be plenty to look at, to
Brasserie Praha 38 Exclusive Club 82 Le Terroir 36 Robert Guttmann Gallery Valentino 62 listen to, but most importantly, plenty to taste. You will enjoy your
Bredovský dvůr 33 Extasy Cabaret 82 Letná park 72 (Jewish Museum) 70 Veg Food 49
Bresto 50 Face Cafe 51 Le Tram 56 Roca 43 Veletržní Palace 70 time watching swordsmen, jugglers as well as charming dancers,
Buddha Bar Hotel 22 Ferdinanda 33 Liberty 27 Rock Café 60 Velryba 52
Budweiser Budvar Fiesta 35 Lokalblok 56 Rocky O'Reilly's 63 Velvet 84 listening to period music, the wine and beer will flow, and you
Restaurant 33 Flambée 35 Loreta 66 Roma 44 Vermeer 32
Buffalo Bill's 31 Follow Me 82 Lotos Club 84 Roxy 60 Vertigo 60 will be eating your meal the way reflecting the spirit of time, with
Bugsy's 54 Four Seasons 22 Lucerna Music Bar 59 Royal Palace 24 Vesmírna 52
BW Meteor Plaza 25 Francouzská restaurace 36 Lví dvůr 34 Rudolfinum 70 Victims of Communism your hands! If you are lucky, an old fortune-teller will reveal your
Café Amsterdam 50 Fu Hao 36 M1 60 Rybanaruby 52 Memorial 71 destiny reading from your palm, and at the very end of your visit
Café Café 50 Funicular Railway 72 Macao 37 Rybí trh 48 Villa Müller 71
Café de Paris 35 Futura 67 Mad Bar 56 Safir 44 Villa Richter Restaurants 42 you will sneak past the executioner. Only one thing will leave you
Café Imperial 50 Futurum 59 Magická zahrada 42 Sarah Bernhardt 36 Vltava 42
Café Jungmann 50 Galerie Jaroslava Fragnera 67 Malostranská pivnice 62 Sax 29 Vojanovy sady 73 disappointed... your return back to the present times!
Café Louvre 50 Galerie La Femme 67 Maluj Creative Café 52 Seaworld 72 Vyšehrad 65
Café Pavlač 50 Galerie MIRO 67 Malý Buddha 37 Seventh Heaven 52 Vysmátý zajíc 63
Café Savoy 50 Galerie Václava Špály 67 Mánes Exhibition Hall 69 Shakespeare & Sons 52 V Zátiší 42 The price includes: three-hour performance, “all you can eat”
Caffrey's 62 Gallery KusKovu 67 Man-na 43 Sheraton Prague Charles Wakata 58
Cantina 45 GDR camping ground 71 Manni Mini 37 Square Hotel 24 Wenceslas Square 65 and two drinks for 990 CZK.
Carioca 81 Gecko 55 Marriott Executive Sherlock's Pub 44, 63 Wigwam 42
Carlton 25 George & Dragon 62 Apartments 29 Siam Orchid 49 XT3 60
Cartouche 44 Giallo Rosa 45 Martin's Irish Pub 63 Slavia 52 Yessi Café 52
Casa Havana 54 Giovanni 42 Martin Tour 70 Smetana Museum 70 Zahrada v Opeře 42
Casino de Prague Le Hilton 57 Globe 51 Masala 37 Solidní nejistota 60 Zanzibar 58
Casino Palais Savarin 57 Goldfinger's 84 Mash Hana 43 Sovereign 27 Zapa Bar 58
Casino Panorama
Casino President
57
57
Grand Café Orient
Grand Café Praha
51
51
Matylda Botel
Mecca
43
60
Sovovy Mlýny
Spearmint Casino
34
58
Zlatá Praha
Zlaté časy
38
61
Celetná
l 17
17, Praha
h 1
Castle Steps 30 Grand Hotel Bohemia 22 Merlin 63 Starbucks 52 Zoo Praha 73
Čedok 70 Grand Hotel Praha 22 Metropol Music Cafe 45 St. Ignatius Church 66 Zvonice 38 Group reservation - Mobile: +420 777 015 000
Celebrity Café 44 Grosseto 48 Miniatures Museum 69 St. Nicholas Café 58
Reservation - Phone: +420 224 829 110
Email: info@krcmaupavouka.cz, www.krcmaupavouka.cz
Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com