Page 1 of 21

STEP 1. Run end of line through eye of hook or lure and double back through the eye a
second time.
STEP 2. Loop around standing part of line five or six times.
STEP 3. Thread tag end back between the eye and the coils as shown.
STEP 4. Pull up tight and trim tag end.

Page 2 of 21

STEP 1 Double the line and form a loop three to four inches long. Pass the end of the
loop through the hook's eye.
STEP 2 Holding standing line between thumb and finger, grasp loop with free hand
and form a simple overhand knot.
STEP 3 Pass hook through loop and draw line while guiding loop over top of eyelet.
STEP 4 Pull tag end of line to tighten knot snugly and trim tag end to about 1/8 inch.

Page 3 of 21

**SPINNERS** Run the line through the rod guides down to the reel. Flip the wire
bail open and tie the line onto the reel spool. Snug the knot down, then clip excess
line end with nail clipper. Lay the filler line spool on the floor so the line coils in the
same direction the spool turns when you crank the handle. If the reel turns counter
clockwise, make sure the line is coiling off the filler spool counter clockwise.
Otherwise the line will wind on to the reel and twist, and this will cause casting
problems. Fill the reel to within 1/8 inch of the full spool capacity or to the level
indicated in the reel manual.
**BAIT CASTERS** Start at the tip of the rod and run the line through all the guides
down the rod to the reel. Next feed the line to the reel spool, through the reel line
guide. Next loop the line around the reel spool, and tie it on. Snug the knot down,
then clip excess line end with nail clipper. Now have a friend hold a line spool directly
in front of the rod tip with a pencil through the middle of the line spool. Then reel the
line off the line spool keeping slight tension on the line. Fill a bait-cast reel to within
1/4 inch of capacity or the level instructed in the reel manual. Another tip - is to
place the line through a book if you don't have an extra set of hands available. Make
sure you keep the rod tip pointed directly to the book.

Page 4 of 21

STEP 1. Tie an overhand knot before feeding the line through the eye of the lure.
STEP 2. Feed the working end(tag)through the eye of your lure and then through the
loop you created when you created the overhand knot.
STEP 3. Make three(3) wraps around the line.
STEP 4. Now bring the line back through the overhand knot loop again but do not
pull tight. Leave some slack as you will bring the tag back through this slack loop.
STEP 5. Now feed the tag through this slack loop and pull tight with steady pressure.
STEP 6. Bait up and catch fish!

Page 5 of 21

STEP 1. Turn the end of the line back alongside itself so that you have formed a
loop.
STEP 2. Grip the tag end and the main length in one hand and, with the thumb and
forefinger of your free hand, take hold of both lengths short of the loop itself.
STEP 3. Now make a loop with your thumb and fore finger and hold this new loop
with the fingers of your other hand. Let go with your thumb and forefinger and use
them to pass the first loop twice through the loop that you have just formed.
STEP 4. Moisten the knot and pull both ends carefully to tighten it. Trim-off the tag
end close to the knot. This knot has the advantage of a tag end that lies close to the
main line.

Page 6 of 21

Uni-Knot --- Joining 2 Lines (of Similar Diameter)

One basic fishing line knot which can be varied to meet virtually every knot tying need in either
fresh or salt water fishing. That was the objective of Vic Dunaway, author of numerous books on
fishing and editor of "Florida Sportsman" magazine. The Uni-Knot system resulted. Knot
illustrations and directions thanks to Ande Monofilament.

1. Overlap ends of two lines of about the same diameter for about 6".
Take one end, and form the Uni-Knot circle, crossing the two lines about midway of the
overlapped distance.

2. Tie the Uni-Knot, making six turns around the two lines (leaving the loop free).

3. Pull the tag end to form a snug knot tight around the line.

4. Use the loose end of the overlapped line to tie another Unit-Knot as shown above and pull
snug.

5. Pull the two standing lines in opposite directions to slide the knots together. Pull as tightly as
possible and snip ends close to nearest coil.

Page 7 of 21

The Uni-Knot System -- Leader to Line

One basic fishing knot which can be varied to meet virtually every knot tying need in either fresh
or salt water fishing. That was the objective of Vic Dunaway, author of numerous books on
fishing and editor of "Florida Sportsman" magazine. The Uni-Knot system resulted. Knot
illustrations and directions thanks to Ande Monofilament. Tie on leader of no more than four times
the pound /test of the line.
1. Double the end of the line and overlap it with the leader for about 6". Make a Uni-circle with
the doubled line.

2. Tie the basic Uni-Knot, making three turns with the line loop around the two lines and the
leader line. Pull it snug up.

3. Now tie another Uni-Knot to the left side with the leader around the double line. Again, use
only three turns.

4. Pull the knots together as tightly as possible. Trim ends and loop.

Page 8 of 21

The Snell Knot

Using the Uni-Knot to Snell a Hook
Provides a strong connection when fishing with bait and using a
separate length of leader. You can only use a snell with a leader.

1) Thread six inches of line through the eye of the hook.

2) Hold the line against the hook's shank, and form a Uni-Knot circle.

3) Make five to seven turns through the loop and around the standing
line and hook's shank.

4) Tighten by pulling the standing line in one direction and the tag end
in the other.

Page 9 of 21

1. Insert one end of the leader through the hook's eye, extending 1 to 2 inches past
the eye. Insert the other end of the leader through the eye in the opposite direction
pointing toward the barb of the hook.Hold the hook and leader ends between your
thumb and forefinger of left hand. Leader will hang below the hook in a large loop.
2. Take the part of the large lower loop that is closest to the eye and wrap it over the
hook shank and both ends of the leader toward the hook's barb.
3.Continue to wrap for 7 or 8 turns and hold wraps with left hand. Grip the end of
the leader that is through the eyelet with your right hand and pull it slowly and
steadily. Hold the turns with your left hand or the knot will unravel. When knot is
almost tight, slide it up against the eye of the hook. Grip the short end lying along
the shank of the hook with a pair of pliers. Pull this end and the standing line at the
same time to completely tighten the knot.

Page 10 of 21

The Bobber Stop

The Bobber fisherman uses a running bobber for casting and general handiness, and stops
the bobber from running up the line by using the Bobber Stop. It has the advantage that
the stops moves readily over the rod guides, but grips the monofilament line so tightly
that it will not slide over the line. It should be made with about 5 inches of nylon, usually
the same diameter as the line itself.
1.Take 2 turns (3 if necessary) around the main line at the chosen point.
2.Bring both ends around to form a Surgeon's Knot (see above).
3.Tighten into shape bringing the coils close together.

Page 11 of 21

Page 12 of 21

Page 13 of 21

Page 14 of 21

Page 15 of 21
Northern Pike Fishing Tips & Techniques
Where The Pike Are:
There are many places where you will find Northern Pike in Northern Ontario Lakes.
Generally, you will find small to medium size pike in the back of bays where there is
thick weeds, lily pads and wild rice. The small to medium size pike are feeding on
small minnows, bugs, frogs and each other. When you come out to the edge of the
weeds, the pike will get bigger because the pike have the food of the bay to their
back and also have the chance of taking a small Walleye swimming by the outside of
the weeds. So where are the big pike?
Big pike generally do not bother with small minnows, frogs and bugs. Their main
food is Walleyes, small hammer-handles, Suckers, Chub and Whitefish. The big pike
will hang out where they can ambush Walleyes. The prime ambush area is points
leading into bays. They will also hang around rocky points, shoals, islands and other
places where there are Walleyes. The best place to get a big trophy pike is at the
mouth of a stream or river, narrows between islands and water-flow between lakes.
The big pike just sit there waiting for Walleyes to swim through. Walleyes tend to
migrate around a lake all year, whether it's moving to find cooler water, deeper
water, more food or even finding their spawning grounds.
Of all the game fish you can catch in Ontario, Northern Pike are the easiest. Pike will
hit just about any lure. The most popular lures for Pike are the "red & silver" and the
yellow "five-of-diamonds" DareDevils. Pike also hit jigs, Rapalas and Thundersticks.
Some of the biggest pike are caught with small jigs while Walleye fishing. It makes
sense because the big pike will patrol the outer parameter of the schools of
Walleyes.
Play with your bait:
Pike will play with your bait. It's not uncommon for a big Pike to hit and let go
several times before the bait is taken. With this in mind you have to show some
patience. If you get a big pike on and then lose him, just wait a little while and he
will hit again. Their appetites are so ferocious that they forget quickly and start to
feed again. There are many reports by fisherman of catching the same pike over
again.
Casting A DareDevil:
One very effective way to maximize the attraction of a DareDevils or
other spoons is to slap them. What you do is cast towards your target
zone but cast up high so your lure falls into the area you want to fish.
When the lure is about 2 or 3 feet above the water, jerk your line
towards you. This makes the lure slap on the surface. If you are doing it
right, you can hear the DareDevil slap. The sound of a spoon slapping on
the surface seems to attract pike and/or trigger a feeding response.

Page 16 of 21
In Northern Ontario, there are generally three types of water. Some lakes are so
clear that you can see the bottom 80 feet down. Other shallow lakes can me murky
or muddy for days or weeks after a big storm. Many lakes have a wine-red color,
which is caused by dissolved iron in the water. With clear water, the red and silver
color works best. With muddy or iron-rich water, a yellow Five-of-Diamonds
DareDevil seems to work better. In muddy or iron-rich water, rattle baits are even
better as the pike can locate the lure by sound.
Muskie and Northern Pike look very similar. Did you know that they are not
genetically related? They look the same because they evolved in similar
environments. Walleye (Yellow Pickerel) and the Yellow Perch are related even
though they look very different.
Using Old Rapalas with your DareDevil:

Do you have a Rapala that's all chewed up or the little plastic fin broke off? You don't
have to turn it into a key-chain or throw it in the garbage. It's still very useful.
Nothing gets a big monster pike PO'ed more than watching another fish trying to eat.
Northern Pike are extremely competitive and like to assert their dominance in the
food chain. When a pike sees a fish chasing another fish, it's time for lunch.
With this in mind, take the hooks off your broken Rapala. Then attached a black steel
leader. Then attach another leader to the back of the Rapala with a spring-slip-ring.
Then attach your DareDevil or what ever you want to use.
This rig is another way of triggering that animal feeding instinct. It's an old Muskie
fishing trick.

Page 17 of 21
Kawartha Muskie Rig With Big Minnows:
The big trophy Northerns are not feeding on bugs and little minnows. They are
feeding on 1/2 to 2 pound Walleyes. A big pike will spend too much energy chasing
little bits of food. With this in mind, it's time to look at your bait. Most bait stores will
not carry 6 to 8 inch chub or suckers but that's what you need. Get some 4 pound
test line and really tiny hooks and find a small stream. Walk down the stream until
you come to a hole and fish for chub/suckers with a little piece of worm. Just about
every small stream in Canada has Chub or suckers in it and they are easy to catch.

A big chub on a traditional Kawartha Muskie rig is how you catch the big ones. To
make a Muskie rig, you need two steel leaders and two medium size treble hooks.
Clip the hooks onto the two leaders. Then clip the two leaders together so that you
have a hook at one end and a hook where the two leaders are joined. Tie your line to
the eye of the top leader. Next you want to get a medium size float and put the float
about 1 foot above the rig. With the end hook, put the hook through the bottom lip
of the Chub. With the middle hook, hook the Chub at the base of the tail. Make sure
you do not hook the Chub at the end of the tail or the fish will not be able to swim
around.
How To Hold A Pike:
If you hold a northern pike or walleye up by it's eye sockets like they use to do in the
old days, you squeeze their optic nerves into their brain and they die a slow death.
Gas and Bug Spray:
If you have touched a gas tank, gas line or get gasoline on your hands, scrub (wash)
your hands with sugar. After you have put bug spray on, wash your hands with salt.
Do this before you touch your lures to minimize transfer of undesirable scents. This
will maximize fish strikes.

Page 18 of 21
Bottom Bouncers
Bottom bouncer live bait rigging is a great tactic to use when walleyes are relating
tight to deep structure and are considered to be in a neutral or negative feeding
mood.
The weight of bouncer you choose will depend on the depth you're marking fish at,
but a typical range would be 1.5 to 2.5 ounces. A six-foot snell tipped with a crawler
or leech will trigger bites, but large minnows often are more productive especially on
western reservoirs. This is a slow and methodical technique for targeting walleyes
that are tight to specific structural elements such as deep breaks, cups and points.
This is not a search technique, but rather a tactic used once you've located a tight
concentration of fish on deep structure.
Use your electronics to scan likely points, cups and deep structure. Working from the
bow and using the bowmount trolling motor to position the boat, lower the bottom
bouncer rig when you locate fish, making sure you let out just enough line so that
the bouncer's leg just touches bottom.
As you slowly work the immediate area, make sure you're keeping the bouncer as
vertical as possible. This will give you much better control and help allow you to feel
even light bites. Often, when using large minnows, particularly large Creek Chubs,
you'll be able to feel the bait get very active when a predator walleye is close. The
bite may feel like nothing more than the rig getting heavy, or you may feel a "tug".
At that point, drop the rod tip slowly toward the fish, giving it time to take the bait
and turn its head. When you feel the fish has the bait and the line is tight, set the
hook with an upward sweeping motion and fight the fish in.
Make no mistake, this is a finesse technique, demanding precise boat control and a
sensitive touch. A good quality set-up for bottom bouncer rigging would include a
6'6" to 7' medium action baitcast rod and reel combo spooled with 10 pound test
Berkley FireLine tied to a bouncer rigged with a 6 foot leader of 8 pound test Berkley
Vanish Fluorocarbon and a super sharp live bait hook. The rod coupled with the nostretch FireLine give you excellent feel of whats going on below, and the Vanish
Fluorocarbon makes the leader virtually
invisible to the fish.
It's a deadly technique for those
situations where walleyes are tough to
catch by most any other method.

Page 19 of 21
Worm tricks for Walleye
Worms are the most versatile bait in the walleye angler's arsenal. Crawlers work in
the cold water of spring and fall, and during the hottest days of summer. They catch
walleye in rivers and lakes. These fish like the smell, look, and feel of a worm. Yet
many anglers, weaned on television fishing shows and endless super-lure
infomercials, consider live-worm fishing passe, even vaguely dirty. To each their
own, but if there aren't a couple of dozen nightcrawlers in your cooler when you
head out for walleye, you're at a disadvantage. Here are a few worm tricks to
increase your catch.
Jigs
Worms wiggle and squirm pretty well, which is one reason walleye seem to like
them, but when used to tip a jig, a worm imitates a dancing minnow, a flitting
crayfish, or a swimming nymph. On Lake Erie, nightcrawlers have been used for
years as sweeteners on weight-forward spinner jigs like the Erie Dearie. The crawler
is threaded nose first on to the hook and slid on to the shaft, allowing just a section
of the tail to trail enticingly behind the lure. This same technique can be used on a
bare jig head.
Split-tailing is a great trick to add even more movement to a jig. Impale a full
nightcrawler directly in the middle with the hook. Leave the two ends of the worm to
hang down enticingly, creating a double dose of wiggle. When split-tailing a jig, the
shank of the hook is primarily free, so you can still add a small rubber grub for
colour, scent, or bulk.
If you want to slow the fall of your jig, a useful tactic in shallow water, use a
commercial worm blower to inflate the tail section of the worm. If the crawler has
been threaded onto the hook, the tail will float up. When split-tailing, you can inflate
both the head and tail of the worm, which allows for an even slower fall.
Rigging
A worm, a No. 6 short-shank bait-holder hook, and a 3/8-ounce slip-sinker have
probably provided more walleye shore lunches than any other technique in North
America. It's the meat-and-potatoes walleye rig for pro and novice alike. When
rigging a worm, hook it through the tip of the nose and then turn the hook barb out
of its side. A rigged worm hooked off-centre will spin and look less appealing to fish.
It can also wreak havoc on your leader.
Many anglers use floating jig heads to keep their rigged crawlers off bottom, out of
mud and weed, but there are times when walleye don't want to see extra hardware
near a worm. When fish are finicky, a more natural way to float a crawler off bottom
is to again inflate the front portion of it. If you want the worm to suspend
horizontally, give it a touch of air in the back portion, as well. The more air you
pump into the worm, the higher it will float off bottom. Don't over-inflate it, though,
or it will end up looking like an over-cooked sausage.
If you plan to still-fish with a slip-sinker rig, or drift a crawler along bottom in
current, you might want to hook the bait through the centre. This allows both ends

Page 20 of 21
of the worm to wriggle naturally. As in split-tailing, hook the crawler dead centre
once, twice at most. This method of hooking is also the best to use when fishing a
worm under a float.
For use around weeds or snags, you can Texas-rig a live worm. It will be a little
trickier to set up than a rubber worm, but the payoff is more hits. I hook the worm
through the nose, push the barb out the bottom, and re-bury the hook dead centre
in the bait. Since live worms are softer, and we must assume tastier, than rubber,
there's no need to have the hook point exposed. Bury it in the worm, but when you
feel a bite, make sure you strike hard enough to move the hook.
Catching walleye during a mayfly hatch is one of the biggest challenges an angler
faces. One trick that works well is to cut a crawler in to quarters, hook one of them
on a No. 8 short-shank hook, and then inflate it with a blower. This makes a
reasonably convincing mayfly-nymph imitation. Work a small piece of worm slowly
along weed flats or sand bays and wait for a school of walleye on the feed to show
up. They'll like the looks of this bait.
Spinner rigs
The classic walleye spinner rig is a worm harness made with an Indiana blade,
coloured beads, and three hooks tied in tandem. Generally, a whole nightcrawler is
used on this harness. The front hook should be placed dead centre in the worm's
snout. The other two hooks are buried in the skin along the full length of the worm.
Walleye tend to nip at the tail of a whole crawler, hence the three hooks. A trick that
many trollers use is to replace the single hooks with No. 6 or 8 trebles. You'll hook
more fish with them, especially if you normally fish with the rod in a holder, thereby
missing some strikes.
Traditional French-style spinners, such as the Mepps Aglia, Blue Fox, and Double
Loon, are effective walleye lures, especially when worked in current. They almost
always benefit from a worm sweetening. Use half a crawler on each hook point of the
spinner. Leave a couple of short pieces of worm trailing on the hook for added
movement. Another trick I've seen used in eastern Canada is to add a single trailer
hook on a 2-inch leader to a traditional spinner. A worm is threaded on the trailer
hook. This set-up is especially good when trolled.
Crankbaits
One nearly forgotten trick is to tip the bottom hook of a wobbling plug with a worm.
I first saw this technique used in the mid-1980s on Lac Des Mille Lacs in
northwestern Ontario. In those days, the lure of choice was a Flatfish, yellow with
red dots or a skunk pattern. The worm was braided onto the bottom treble of the
lure and both were trolled slowly along bottom. One modification is to replace the
lure's bottom treble with a snelled single No.6 short-shank hook. A worm threaded
onto this hook dangles enticingly below the wriggling lure. In addition to traditional
wobbling plugs, minnow-shaped crankbaits also work well with worms.
If you haven't tried walleye fishing with worms, or haven't been that successful with
them in the past, try some of the techniques in this article. My experience has been
that the intersection of a healthy walleye and fat crawler almost always leads to a
tight line. And tight lines mean happy walleye anglers.

Page 21 of 21