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THE CATALAN RHAPSODY

By Nisha Jha

HAVE you ever imagined Spain beyond Madrid, Barcelona and Ibiza? I had not, till I met two
Catalans in Mumbai a couple of years ago. I chatted with them over coffee and learnt about offthebeaten- track places in the Catalan region. I made a mental note of my future itinerary for Spain
which, for tourists, is restricted to only a few popular cities as a travel destination. Even though
Barcelona is a Catalonian city, most dont venture beyond here.
But, you must and begin with Cardona. This mining town with sweeping vistas is just around two hours drive from
Barcelona and in spirit, as much Catalonian as it can be.
Here, the people look a little puzzled when you ask a question in Spanish. Of course, they understand but reply in
Catalan, the language they are comfortable in.
The village Cardona is cradled between two mountains, one noted for its castle and the other for its salt. The castle
complex includes portions of a Gothic cloister, a ducal patio, the Church of San Vicente and the tower where, according
to legend, the daughter of the Viscount of Cardona was imprisoned by her brothers for falling in love with a Moor. As the
story goes, she died there within a year.
The Salt Mountain or Muntanya de Sal looks more like a snow mountain than a salt one. The salt left by the
evaporation of seawater, together with potassium resources from Neolithic times extrudes at Cardona to form a diapir
with a unique geological phenomenon in the world. I descend 80 meters into the mines to see the splendour of
stalactites, the folds and seams of the salt bed from different periods.
The main salt, potassium chloride, which was used to make explosives was found 300 meters deep. A famous 1920s
model Teresa Lopez was roped in to advertise for a film Union de Esplosive . She was so famous that her portrait
appeared on the back of some Spanish bank notes of that period. It is said salt was also used as a currency for a
certain times.
Then drive down to artistic and historical Lleida. Medieval constructions including a thirteenth century Gothic- Romanic
cathedral known as Seu Vella stands on a hill by the same name. It is one of the best conserved examples of such
architecture in Catalonia.
In this town, shopping is a way of life and not an indulgence.
You can see multi- national brands competing with each other on the longest shopping street in Europe. Be it
electronics, shoes or clothes, your craving for shopping is satiated before you leave the city. If you miss visiting Museu
de Lleida, your love of Romanic art and prehistoric objects can invite the mobile version of the museum to your city! It is
hard for a Spanish city to hit the headlines when its competing with the likes of Madrid and Barcelona. But the stunning
and warm Zaragoza has succeeded in doing just that. Situated along the river Ebro, Zaragoza is a rich blend of historic
and modern architecture.
Ruled by Romans, Arabs and Christians, it has the must- see Cathedral del Salvador.
When the Christians came to town around the 12th century, they built the church after removing the Mosque which was
previously on the site. Before the Mosque it was a Roman temple.
While the cathedral and the Moorish buildings tell historic tales; Water Tower, Bridge Pavilion and River Aquarium show

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off the city's avantgarde architecture.

An icon was made at the cost of half a million euros to symbolise the river Ebro but the final product disappointed the
citizens. So, it was not installed anywhere near the water body. Nonetheless, this most expensive piece of the arts
programme went on to become one of the most photographed views of the international event! A midnight stroll on the
streets or an evening spent around the Plaza de la Seo, Zaragoza has a laid back attitude.
A centre for gastronomy, it offers food and drink for every budget and taste.
Zaragoza has one more distinction it is 100 per cent wheel- chair friendly! Have you ever seen a mountain that
reminds you of being human? Montserrat mountain in Catalonia is just that. It gives a feel of an army of straight rocks
snuggling together and protecting us. While the salt mountain in Cardona was extruded from water, in Montserrat we
have serrated and barren pinnacles of sandstone erupted from the mountains base.
Just an hour from Barcelona, Montserrat offers a rich and varied landscape. Nestled in the mountains, it has one of
Spains foremost museums, a monastery, a unique natural park and the site of the shrine is dedicated to the Virgin of
Montserrat, a Black Madonna.
The church is ornate and beautiful.
Black Madonna is popular among Catalans and Catholic pilgrims who attribute many miracles to her credit. Youll find
large- sized sculptures waiting to tell you stories of that era. The Escolania is one of the oldest in Europe. Your visit to
Montserrat is incomplete if you dont experience the Boys Choir performed every Sunday for the public.
Certainly there is much more to Spain beyond Madrid, Barcelona and Ibiza.
While the cathedral and Moorish buildings tell historic tales of Zaragoza, the Water Tower, Bridge Pavilion &
River Aquarium show off the city's avantgarde architecture

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