Application of Enzymes in Textiles

R.Senthil Kumar, Senior Lecturer, Dept. of Textile Technology,

Kumaraguru College of Technology, Coimbatore-06

Introduction:
Due to constantly increasing level of pollutants governments of many countries imposing
stricter limitations on release of pollutants. They are even making special environmental
legislation for that. Therefore there is ever increasing demand for clean processes i.e.
processes which either cause no pollution or less pollution. Textile industry particularly
the chemical processing sector always has a major share in the global pollution. Enzymes
play key role in such alternative processes. Use of enzymes in textile started as long as a
century ago. This paper is an attempt to give a broad outlook about the versatile use of
enzyme in textile wet processing.

Enzyme –Definition:
Enzyme is a specialized protein produced within an organism, which is capable of
catalyzing specific chemical reaction. They are also called as “Biocatalyst”.
They are naturally occurring high molecular weight proteins. Their molecular weight
ranges from 104-105.They mainly consists of amino acid.

Classification of Enzymes:
The enzymes can be classified into the six different classes as follows.
1) Oxireductase: These enzymes bring about energy yielding reactions of living
tissue.
2) Transferase: These enzymes transfer a group of atoms from one molecule to the
other molecule.
3) Hydrolases: These enzymes are responsible for cleavage of complex molecules.
4) Lyases: These enzymes are responsible for a group of atom may be removed
from substrate leaving double bond or group may be added to the double bond
without hydrolysis.
 5) Isomerases: These enzymes catalyse the reaction which brings about
intermolecular rearrangement of atoms in the substrate.
6) Ligases : These enzymes catalyse the reaction in which pyrophosphate bonds of
ATP are broken
Of all above classes present majority of enzymes used in textile
chemical processing are hydrolases.

Source of Enzyme:
1) Vegetable source: Malt extract is made from germinated barley. These are
particularly used in desizing.
2) Bacterial source: Enzymes can be commercially produced by growing cultures
of certain microorganisms e.g. protease, catalase.
3) Animal source: these enzymes obtained from slaughterhouse wastes such as
pancreas, clotted blood liver etc.

Enzyme action -Induced fit model:

Fig.1 Diagrams to show the induced fit hypothesis of enzyme action.

In 1958, Daniel Koshland suggested a modification to the lock and key model: since
enzymes are rather flexible structures, the active site is continually reshaped by
interactions with the substrate as the substrate interacts with the enzyme. As a result, the
substrate does not simply bind to a rigid active site; the amino acid side chains which
make up the active site are molded into the precise positions that enable the enzyme to
perform its catalytic function. In some cases, such as glycosidases, the substrate molecule
also changes shape slightly as it enters the active site. The active site continues to change
until the substrate is completely bound, at which point the final shape and charge is
determined.

Properties of Enzyme used in Textiles:

1. Enzyme accelerates the reaction;
• An enzyme accelerates the rate of particular reaction by lowering the
activation energy of reaction
• The enzyme remains intact at the end of reaction by acting as catalyst.

2. Enzymes operate under milder condition:

• Each enzyme have optimum temperature and optimum pH i.e. activity of
enzyme at that pH and temperature is on the peak.
• For most of the enzyme activity degrades on the both sides of optimum
condition.
3. Alternative for polluting chemicals:
• Enzymes can be used as best alternative to toxic, hazardous, pollution
making chemicals.
• Also some pollutant chemicals are even carcinogenic. When we use
enzymes there is no pollution.
4. Enzyme acts only on specific substrate:
• Most enzymes have high degree of specificity and will catalyse the
reaction with one or few substrates.
• One particular enzyme will only catalyse a specific type of reaction. (e.g.)
Enzymes used in desizing do not affect cellulose hence there is no loss of
strength of cotton.
5. Enzymes are easy to control:
• Enzymes are easy to control because their activity depends upon
optimum condition.
6. Enzymes are Biodegradable:
• At the end of reaction in which enzymes used we can simply
drain the remaining solution because enzymes are biodegradable and do
not produce toxic waste on degradation hence there is no pollution.

Factors affecting efficiency of enzymes:

• Substrate concentration
• pH value
• Temperature
• Time
• Activator
• Inhibitor

Enzymes used in textile and their effects:

Enzyme Effect
Amylase Desizing
Cellulases Biostoning of jeans
and Desizing of CMC.
Hemicellulases Stylish effect on cellulose fibres
Pectinase Scouring of vegetable as well as bast fibres e.g.
cotton ,jute
Proteases Scouring of animal fibres, degumming of silk and
modification of wool properties.
Lipases Elimination of fat and waxes

Enzymatic Desizing:
• Desizing is the removal of starch added during sizing process.
• Chemically starch is α - glucopyranose in which straight chain
(amylase) and branched chain (amylopectins) polymers are present.
• These are insoluble in water so starch hydrolyses them under
suitable condition.
• Reaction : Starch → Dextrin → Soluble Dextrin
• The process takes place through Impregnation → Incubation → Washing

Enzymatic Scouring (Bioscouring):

• Scouring is removal of non-cellulosic material present on the
surface of the cotton
• In generally cellulase and pectinase are combined and used for
Bioscouring.
• In this pectinase destroy the cotton cuticle structure by digesting
the pectin and removing the connection between the cuticle and the body
of cotton fibre whereas cellulase can destroy cuticle structure by digesting
the primary wall cellulose immediately under the cuticle of cotton.
• Biological Oxygen Demand (BOD) of enzymatic scouring process
is 20-45% as compared to alkaline scouring (100%).
• Chemical Oxygen Demand (COD) of enzymatic scouring process
is 20-45% as compared to alkaline scouring (100%).
• Total Dissolved Solid (TDS) of enzymatic scouring process is 20-
50% as compared to alkaline scouring (100%).
• Handle is very soft in enzymatic scouring compared to harsh feel
in alkaline scouring process.

Enzymatic Bleaching:
• Oxidoreductase enzyme treatment catalyses oxidation or reduction
reaction may find use in enzymatic bleaching of cotton.
• But there is problem for its commercialization because of presence
of seed fragments from fabrics.
• It is suggested that Xylanasaes, which are currently used in wood
industry, may offer eventual solution.

Enzymatic Mercerization:
 • Greater accessibility and lower crystalinity of cellulose mercerized
without tension is a decisive factor in the acceleration of enzymatic
hydrolysis process.

Biopolishing:
• Biopolishing is a finishing process that improves fabric quality by
mainly reducing fuzziness and pilling property of cellulosic fibre.
• The objective of the process is elimination of micro fibrils of
cotton through the action of cellulase enzyme.
• The main characteristics imparted to the fabric during Biopolishing
treatment are as follow:
1) Cleaner surface is obtained conferring a cooler feel.
2) Lustre is obtained as a side effect.
3) Fabric obtains softer feel.
4) Tendency of the fabric to pill ends.

Enzymatic treatment to denim:

• Denim is heavy grade cotton. In this dye is mainly adsorbed on the
surface of the fibre.
• That is why fading can be achieved without considerable loss of strength.
• In traditional process sodium hypochlorite or potassium
permanganate was used called as pumice stones were used disadvantage of
these method are as follows

1) Pumice stones cause large amount of Back- staining.

2) Pumice stones are required in very large amount.
3) They cause considerable wear and tear of machine.
• These disadvantages lead to give rise the process of use of enzymes.
• Protease enzyme is used in denim washing.
 Conclusion:
Pollution free processes are gaining ground all over the world. In this scenario,
enzymes emerging as the best alternative to the polluting textile processing
methods. Enzymes are not only beneficial from ecological point of view but they
are also saving lot of money by reducing water and energy consumption which
ultimately reduce the cost of production. It seems that in the future it will be
possible to do every process using enzymes.

References:
1. Textile Processing with enzymes –Edited by A.Cavaco-Paulo & G.M.Gubitz
2. Mahesh Sharma, Colourage, 40(1)(1993) 13-17.
3. Nalankilli G., Colourage, 45(10)(1998) 17-19.
4. Karmalkar S.R., Colourage, Annual (1998) 75-79.
5. Ian R. Hardin and Juhea Kim, Colourage, Annual (2000) 43-48.
6. V.A.Shenai “Technology of Fibres: Technology of Textile Processing”, Sevak
pub.
7. Wikipedia.com

Author Profile:
R.Senthil Kumar,
Senior Lecturer,
Kumaraguru College of Technology,
Saravanampatty post,
Coimbatore,
Tamil Nadu-641006.
Sen29iit@yahoo.co.in
Mobile: No: 9677468590.