ARVIND LIMITED | DENIM DIVISION

ARVINDS INVOLVEMENT IN BETTER COTTON INITIATIVES

Arushi Srivastava
Vaishali Rai
BFT-V
NIFT, New Delhi

Incorporated in 1931, The Arvind Mills Ltd. is

one of the largest textile conglomerates in
COMPANYAsia,
PROFILE
based
in
Ahmadabad
(India).
It manufactures Denims, Shirting, Khakis,
Knits, Garments

Arvind ranks in top three largest Denim

producers worldwide with an annual
production of over 90 million meters of Denim
Fabric and Exports to over 70 Countries.

The corporate vision for Arvind states: 'We will

enable people to experience a better quality of
life by providing enriching and inspiring
lifestyle solutions'.

COMPANY MILESTONES
1931
The inception of Arvind Mills Limited

1987-88
Arvind enters the export market for Denims with a dual
focus - Denim for leisure and Denim for fashion wear.

1991
Emerges as worlds third largest manufacturer of denim

2007
Arvind establishes MegaMart One of Indias largest value
retail chains

2010
Arvind launches The Arvind Store

Denim
The
Arvind
Store

Woven
Fabric

DIVISONS
Mega
Mart
Retail

Knits

Advanced
Materials

Garment
Export

Own
Brands

Mainstream
Excalibur Gant
Flying Machine

License
Brands

Joint
Venture
Brands

Popular

USPA
Lee
Premium Arrow
Wrangler
Izod

Bridge to Luxury
U.S.A. 1949
Energie

Bridge to Luxury
Tommy Hilfiger

Ruf & Tuf

Cherokee
Mossimo
New Port University

Corporate

Other

Jayesh Shah
Director & CFO
Anang Lalbhai
MD - Arvind Products

Lifestyle
Fabrics

Aamir Akhtar
CEO, Denim
Susheel Kaul
CEO, Knits & Woven
PD Chavda
President, Voiles

Lifestyle
Apparels

Ashish Kumar
CEO, Lifestyle Apparel Jeans & Shirts

J.Suresh
Managing Director Brands & Retail
Milan Shah
CEO, Knowledge
Academy

DENIM DIVISION

Arvind is a pioneer in the manufacture of denim in India.

The total denim fabric capacity is 108 million meters.

CEO of the Arvind denim division is Mr. Aamir Akhtar.

Arvind denim is the 3rd largest producer of denim in the
world.
It has an export network of 70 countries worldwide.
Prominent products in this category include ring denim,
indigo voiles, organic denim, bi-stretch denim and fair trade
certified denim.

INTERNATIONAL BUYERS

PROCESS FLOW CHART

Buyers
Requisition

Design &
Development

Comments
sent by buyer

Design &
Development

Production
Planning

Commercial
Department

Purchase
Order

Buyers
Approval

Material
Procurement

Weaving
Order

Quality
Checking

Processing

Shipment

Quality
Checking

Packaging

Quality
Checking

WEAVING through Rope Dyeing

Spinning

Sizing

Drawing

Final
Inspection

Ball
warping

Rope
Dyeing

Looming

Finishing

WEAVING through Slasher Dyeing

Spinning

Looming

Finishing

Beam
Warping

Slasher
Dyeing

Final
Inspection

SPINNING

PROCESS FLOW OF
SPINNING DEPARTMENT

Spinning
Drawing

Carding

Blow
Room
[Blending]

BLOW ROOM

To open the compressed layer

of bale of cotton or any staple
fibres.

To convert the mass of cotton

fibres in to a uniform thick
sheet of cotton both
longitudinally and transversely
in the form of compactly built
lap.

OBJECTIVES

To blend different varieties of

cotton in the desired
proposition to prepare the raw
material for the spinning
process.

To extract the impurities like

broken seeds, leaves, sand,
stone & iron particles, short
fibres, immature fibres, dust,
dirt by opening and beating.

BLOW ROOM
Input

Cotton Bales
-Full of trashes or impurities i.e. leaves, seed, chaff,
metallic particle, dusts etc.

Purpose

Output

Clean & open small tufts

No. of Machines

2 Lines with 12 machines

Machine make

Trtzschler

Opening
Cleaning
Mixing or blending
Dust removal
Uniform feed to the carding machine

No. of Operators 2 Operators ( 1op/mc)

PROCESS FLOW OF BLOW ROOM

Blendomat
GBR

GBR

AFC

AFC

MPM-8

MPM-8

ASTA

ASTA

BE-961

BE-961

SRS-6

SRS-6

RN

RN

BE-981

BE-981

RSK

RSK

DUST-EX

DUST-EX

FBK 533

FBK 533
CARDI
CARDING
NG

CARDING
Input
Purpose

Output
No. of Operators
No. of Machines
Machine make
Model
Production
Card cleaning efficiency
CV%

Clean & open small tufts

To open the flocks into individual fibers
Cleaning or elimination of impurities
Reduction of neps
Elimination of dust
Elimination of short fibers
Fiber blending
Fiber orientation or alignment
Sliver formation
Sliver
2 Operators ( 1op/10mc)
20 machines
Trtzschler
DK 803
18,000 kg/day
62-67%
1.2-1.7%

CARDING

DRAW FRAME
Input

Slivers

Purpose

6 Slivers are converted into 1

Parallelization of fiber

Enhancement of Density

Blending

Auto-leveler maintains absolute sliver fineness

Output

Sliver

No. of Operators

3 Operators ( 1op/4mc)

No. of Machines

6 Breakers + 6 finishers

Machine make

Trtzschler

Model

HSR 900

Production

3.5 ton/day

DRAW FRAME

In arvind mills, the sliver is drawn through the draw

frame twice.
1ST PASSAGE:

Parallel alignment of fibers, 6 slivers are converted into one

sliver.

2nd PASSAGE:

Output of the second passage of draw frame goes into open

end spinning.

SPINNING at Naroda Plant

The plant at Naroda works entirely on open end spinning technology spinning.
Fehlafharfts AUTOCORO spinning machine.
No. of Machines installed - 24 (in all 3 units) 11+7+6
Total number of rotors in each Spinning Unit:

AML Section 2376 rotors

EOU Section 1680 rotors

RDP Section 1440 rotor.

Twist produced: Z twist only.

Yarn length on creel: 6480A0 meters.

Automatic piecing: Corolap automatic splicer
Count: 5.3 to 20 count.
6 slub forming machine
The yarn formed is rolled in form of cheese, cone and bobbin.
The speed of the rotor roll varies from 80,000 rpm to 130,000 rpm.

WARP DYEING

The process of dyeing dictates the technology of

Denim manufacturing.

The dyeing for Denim Fabric happens at the yarn

stage.
Generally there are two most popular methods of
dyeing Denim followed. They are:
Rope Dyeing
Slasher/Sheet Dyeing

WARP PREPARATION

WARPING

DYEING

WARPING
Transferring multiple yarns from a creel of singleend packages forming a parallel sheet of yarns
wound onto a beam or a ball beam.

DYEING TECHNOLOGIES

ROPE DYEING

-Process Flow Chart

Ball
Warping

Rope
Dyeing

Re-Beaming

Sizing

ROPE DYEING

Step-1

The process of winding

warp in rope form onto
balls.
Balls are cross wound
packages and warp is
form of rope.

Ball Warping

No. of Machines= 5
Make-West Point USA
Efficiency per machine= 3040%
Speed per machine= 300350 RPM

ROPE DYEING

Step-2

Dyeing

The process of dyeing the yarn in rope form.

Morrison Rope dyeing range is installed at Arvind, Naroda.

Machine passage 800 meters

5 rolls are used per chamber run.
Production per day

36000x2=72000m
Speed = 25m/min

ROPE DYEING

Step-3

Re-Beaming

Re-opening of the rope and winding it on beams for sizing in next step.

Technical Details
13 Machines
1 operator per machine
441 combs per machine
Production per day
96000 meter/ day/ machine

ROPE DYEING

Step-4

Sizing

The coating of yarn with size to prevent breakage during weaving.

Purpose
To increase the strength of the yarns.
To reduce the yarn hairiness
To increase the abrasion resistance of the yarn
To reduce fluff and fly during the weaving process
Technical Details
3 Machines
2 creels at a time
1 operator & 2 assistant operator per machine
Production rate
Speed: 55 to 60m/min

SLASHER DYEING
-Process Flow Chart
Beam Warping

Pre wetting
Washing
Dyeing
Washing
Drying
Sizing
Drying

SLASHER DYEING
Step-1
Beam Warping

Also known as direct

warping.
Yarns collected in a sheet
form where the yarns lie
parallel to each other and in
the same plane onto a beam,
which is a cylindrical barrel
with side flanges.

No. of Machines= 3
Make-Hacoba
Efficiency per machine= 8588%
Speed = 700m/min

SLASHER DYEING
Step-2
Dyeing
Combines dyeing and sizing into a single process

Warp yarns repeatedly passed in warp beam form through several

baths of indigo dye before being sized and wound for weaving

Also known as sheet dyeing

WEAVING

WEAVING is the interlacement of the warp

(length-wise indigo or sulphur dyed yarn)
and the filling (grey yarn cross wise yarn)
producing denim in a variety of weights and styles.

Input

Warp Beam and Weft yarn

Output

Woven Denim Fabric

No. of Operators

6 Operators ( 1op/9mc)

No. of Machines

54

Machine make

Tsudakoma

Model

ZAX 9100

Production

95000m/day

Max. Fabric Width

71.5

AUTHENTIC DENIM
A heavy weight fabric made of cotton yarn with no yarn characteristics
3/1 right hand twill
100% natural indigo dyed
Weft and warp count 7 & 6 respectively with 36 picks per inch
TYPES OF YARNS USED
Warp: Organic, Conventional
Weft- Open end, Ring spun, Slub, Lycra, Polyester, Poly lycra

PURPOSE of FINISHING
HIGH SALES APPEAL:
For attractive appearance, supple handle, softness and good drape.
HIGH WEAR QUALITY:

For adequate tensile and abrasion strengths, dimensional stability,

crease recovery and freedom from pilling.
BODY PROTECTION AND COMFORT:

For proper heat insulation, moisture absorption and air

permeability.
SPECIAL EFFECTS:

These include water-repellency, reduced flammability, mildew and

moth-proofing, anti-static behaviour and soil release property.

Process Flow Chart

Singeing Unit

Mercerizing Unit

Stentering Unit

Wet Finishing Unit

DENIM INCUBATION
DEPARTMENT

DID is a critical unit for the innovation and creativity

that Arvind mills projects.

The department has been constituted in such a

manner that it has 2 partsThe Design Team

The Technical Team

DID
Customer Development

Collection Development

Innovation and Process Upgradation

Approval/Confirmmation from the CEO
Testing of Physical Properties
Washing
Spinning (Yran slub characteristics etc)
Dye Stuf (dye style, shade etc)

Weaving
Finishing
Inspection
QA for Testing- Sampling
Comercialisation of the fabric chart prepared
Cost Upgradation- Final Costing
Marketting

PROJECT

Project Title
Arvinds Involvement In Better Cotton Initiatives

Objective
Introduction to BCI
Arvinds Implementation of BCI Norms
Quality Analysis of BCI-Bunny Brahma & Bunny Brahma
Cotton

Introduction to BCI
BCI exists to...
...make global cotton production better for the people who
produce it, better for the environment it grows in, and better for
the sectors future.
BCI works with...
...a diverse range of stakeholders to promote measurable and
continuing improvements for the environment, farming
communities and the economies of cotton producing areas.
BCI aims to...
...transform cotton production worldwide by developing Better
Cotton as a sustainable mainstream commodity.

Aims of BCI

Benefits of BCI

COUNTRIES AND REGIONS

ASIA
AFRICA
SOUTH AMERICA

China, India, Pakistan, Tajikistan

Benin, Burkina Faso, Cameroon, Mali, Senegal, Togo
Brazil

BCI at Arvind Limited

As the leader of Indian textile industry, Arvind has taken it upon itself to
develop models that make production of its most valued and most
extensively used raw material more sustainable.

Aims of the Initiative

Improve the farmer's productivity and income

Develop environmentally sustainable business models
Enhance the region's biodiversity
Promote decent work ethics
Develop a lasting social infrastructure & support system

BCI at Arvind Limited

Farm Projects
Akola

Nizar

(Maharashtra)

(Gujarat)

Project Since

2010

2011

No. of Villages

131

58

189

Total area covered (Ha)

15,000

10,400

25,400

No. of farmers benefitted

3,000

2,600

5,600

No. of farm family members

15,000

13,000

28,000

45,000

40,000

85,000

35,000

40,000

75,000

Details of Project

Total

benefitted
Employment generated (Farm
workers)
Capacity (Bales of 165kgs)
Cotton Type

Bunny/Brahma Sankar-6(SUP)

Quality Analysis of
BCI-Bunny Brahma & Bunny Brahma Cotton

UHML
Str
MIC
UI
SFI
Elg
+b
Rd
Lint%
Inv%
Trash%
M%
Nep

Upper half Mean Length (mm)

Strength
(g/tex)
Micronaire
(mg/inch)
Uniformity Index
Short Fiber Index
Elongation
Yellowness
Reflectivity
Lint Percentage
Invisible Trash Percentage
Trash Percentage
Moisture Percentage
Neps Length

(CV%)
(CV%)
(CV%)
(Avg.)
(Avg.)
(Avg.)
(Avg.)
(Avg.)
(Avg.)
(Avg.)
(CV%)
(CV%)
(CV%)

Conclusion
As the leader of Indian textile industry, Arvind has taken it upon itself to
develop models that make production of its most valued and most
extensively used raw material i.e. Cotton more sustainable.
Application of BCI Norms by Arvind has not only uplifted the lifestyle of the
workers under the BCI project but has also enhanced the overall quality
level of Cotton yarns since its quality is based on the uniformity level of
Cotton fibers.
The BCI Cotton has a much lower Coefficient of Variance despite being
manufactured in different areas than the normally procured cotton from
the same areas.
The uniformity index of BCI-BB is 88.8 as compared to the uniformity index of
BB i.e. 81.6 which is significantly lower than the BCI-Cotton and affects its
quality greatly.

References

WEB-REFERENCES

www.arvindmills.com
http://arvind-agri.com/bci.php
http://www.bettercotton.org/
www.garmento.org
www.denimology.com
www.cottoninc.com

BOOKS

Fabric science Glock and Kunj

Fabric Finishing J T Marsh
Textile Science - B P Corbman
Textile Science Tortora

Thank You