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My Home-Made Bob Beck Magnetic Pulser (Thumper)

Based on the Design by Chris Gupta
If you made it to this web page, you most likely have already been researching the Bob
Beck Protocol. If you have no knowledge of electronics and are wanting to build your
own pulser, I recommend thoroughly going over Chris Gupta's Pulser page first and
then coming back here to fill in the blanks. Here I offer photographs and additional
information that may be of assistance to anyone wanting to build their own Bob Beck
Electromagnetic Pulser.
Bob Beck Protocol Information: If you would like to learn more about Robert Beck
and the Beck Protocol, you can view several Google Videos by clicking on the following
Link - Beck Video. Beyond these videos, there is a wealth of information on the internet
about the Bob Beck Protocol. In a nutshell however it implies a four process system
involving blood electrification, electromagnetic pulse, colloidal silver and ozonated

water. If you are experiencing cancer, hiv, lupus, candida or one or more of a host of
other ailments, it would be worth your time to research this health process. Also, you
can download the entire Bob Beck Lecture, "Take Back Your Power" (1MB PDF). I have
searched hi and low for this and finally found the complete document.
Useful mag pulser technical information provided by Russ Torlage of Sota Instruments
regarding the construction of electromagnetic pulsers can be found by clicking on this
The information I provide on this web page is an account of what I have learned in the
process of studying Beck devices and building my own units for my own
experimentation purposes. I assume no responsibility for anything one might do with
the information provided on this web page. Please view any explanations as
hypothetical and not as instructions to be followed.
Lethal Electric Shock Hazard!
This device uses 110V AC current and a bank of capacitors that stores a significant
charge. If this device is not built in a safe manor, there can be a risk of lethal electric
shock. It would advisable for individuals that are unfamiliar with electronics, to have
someone like a TV repairman build this device for them. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE be
absolutely present, mindful and cautious when working around exposed capacitors and
110VAC current. As you will read below, even a shock by a single capacitor from a
disposable camera, can be extremely unpleasant. A professor at Penn Engineering
jokingly recommended that I keep one hand in my pocket. In other words, keeping one
hand in my pocket would prevent an electric shock from going across my heart!
Looking on the bright side however, Chris Gupta told me that many people have
successfully built and are using this device based on his schematic. I'm just asking
those that are intending to build this machine, to use safe practices when working
around exposed capacitors and hot electrical wires.
Please post any successes, failures, comments or questions on Chris Gupta's
Pulser web page, or on my FaceBook Page
Please take a close look at the photos below before reading on. As I don't provide a
lead-in, reviewing the images will help you to understand what I'm talking about.
All measurements are in Inches.
Plastic Box Outside Dimensions: approximately 2-3/8 X 4-1/4 X 7-3/8
Using 1/2 inch #4 beveled machine screws I fastened a 1/8 inch plexiglas sub-floor to
the bottom of the box in order to allow for the attachment of the Terminal Contact Bars

and the home-made bracket for the SCR. The sub-floor also provides an insulated
suface for the circuit components to be mounted to. Screws were counter sunk into
the outside-bottom of the plastic box and fastened on the inside with a lock washers
and nuts. After all components were soldered and attached to the sub-floor, the subfloor was then fastened to the ends of the four screws coming up from the bottom of
the box and again fastened with nuts and lock washers.
Looking at Chris Gupta's EM Pulser circuit, keep in mind that the On/Off switch is on
the positive side of the circuit. The negative side goes to the bulbs, 150V / 130uF
capacitor and ultimately to the Anode of the SCR. In electrical circuits, generally it is
always the hot lead (+) that is switched. I'm not really sure if input polarity makes a
difference in this circuit, but that is how I did it.
Implementing a Strain Relief:
Strain reliefs are essential for electrical safety. They prevent cables from being ripped
out of a circuit in the event an electrical device gets dropped or e.g., should someone
trip over an electrical chord.
Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI):
AGFCI is designed to instantly interrupt the flow of electricity in the event of a short
circuit, before it can become a danger. A short circuit is basically when electricity finds
an alternate path to ground, instead of going through the intended circuit. A short
circuit can happen within an electrical device, or it can happen through a person who
has unknowingly provided a shorter electrical path to ground. I recommend using a
GFCI in conjunction with this device. Probably the easiest way to do this is to purchase
an extension chord or a power strip that has a GFCI as part of the unit. Modern building
codes in the United States require all kitchens, bathrooms and out-door circuits to
have GFCI circuit breakers or receptacles.
The SCR:
The SCR (Silicon Controlled Rectifier) and has three contacts.

SCR Update January 2015: My old SCR burned out and I have now switched to a new
surface mount SCR that is more robust than the Phillips ECG 5529 post mount SCR I

was using. The new SCR is the LittleFuse S4065JTP Thyristor. The LittleFuse
S4065JTP Thyristor/ SCR has a 40A continuous and an 800A peak amperage rating,
which exceeds Gupta's design specs. At least in my searching on the web, I found that
S602L that Gupta lists on his schematic actually is not in compliance with his own
specifications for that component, as it only has a "Peak Amp" rating of 255A. Gupta
told me that component specs vary depending the on manufacturer that makes it. He
also told me that a heat sink for the SCR was not necessary. I had already ordered it
however, so I went ahead and installed it anyway. New photos of my upgraded EMP
based on Chris Gupta's design can be found at the bottom of this page.
Specifications are as follows:

Current It av: 41A
Gate Trigger Current Max, Igt: 50mA
Gate Trigger Voltage Max Vgt: 2V
Holding Current Max Ih: 80mA
MSL: No. of Pins: 3
On State RMS Current IT(rms): 65A
Operating Temperature Max: 125C
Operating Temperature Min: -40C
Peak Non Rep Surge Current Itsm 50Hz: 800A
Peak Repetitive Off-State Voltage, Vdrm: 400V
SVHC: No SVHC (16-Jun-2014)
Thyristor Case: TO-218X
Thyristor Case Style: TO-218X
This SCR needs to be mounted on a heat sink to prevent the component from
overheating. Both items can be purchased from Newark element 14. Newark part
numbers are as follows.

LittleFuse S4065JTP Thyristor/SCR - Newark Stock Number #99K0083 - Web Page

AAVID Thermalloy 6396BG Heat Sink - Newark Stock Number #6396BG - Web Page
Bulbs and Lamp Holders : I used candelabra lamp holders as they take up less space
and are less bulky. Holes of the appropriate size were drilled into the top of the box
about 1 inch in from the edges. The main thing here, is to make sure that the bulbs are
not touching when screwed into the sockets. My pulser makes use of two spherical
shaped 60W bulbs. The spherical bulbs were more aesthetically pleasing to me than
traditional candelabra bulbs. Should a bulb burn out, replace it before continued use. In
Chris Gupta's design the bulbs act as current limiters and protect the SCR from shortcircuiting.
Note: Keep in mind that the bulbs do get hot if you are using the pulser for several
minutes at a time.
Inductor Coil: If you want to go the easy way like me, and don't want to go through the
hassle of building your own coil, two options can purchased from Madisound Speaker
Components, Inc. This link will take you to the correct page on their web site. You are
wanting the Sidewinder 2.5 mH 16AWG Air Core Inductor Coil ($20.60). One can also
use the Solen 2.5 mH Perfect Lay Inductors 14 AWG ($32). The 14 gauge coil is quite
heavy and measures about 3 inches across. I recommend the Sidewinder as long as
it's identical to the photo shown on the Madisound web site. Some time ago the
company began to outsource their coils to another company that was using a clear
polycarbonate bobbin. Not the nylon one seen in the photo. The new coils on the
polycarbonate bobbin are NOT well suited for use as a mag pulser coil. So my
recommendation is to call Madisound before ordering.
Note 1: The AMS coil that is listed in numerous Beck texts as an alternative to building
your own, is no longer manufactured.
Connecting the Inductor Coil and the Switch: The inductor coil attaches to the
Cathode of the SCR and to the negative 'Contact Bar' of the capacitor bank. The
push-to-make switch attaches to the gate of the SCR and to one of the following:
directly to the + buss or contact bar of the capacitor bank, between the positive buss
buss of the capacitor bank and the anode of the SCR (See Photos), or directly to the
anode of the SCR. However when you hook up the switch, keep in mind there is a 10K
resistor between the switch and Anode of the SCR.
Photo Flash Capacitors: The ability of a capacitor to store a charge is measured in
'Farads'. Most capacitors are labeled in Micro Farads (uF). The photo-flash capacitors
you see in the tray below, all came from one run to a local drug store that does photo

processing. They are all from an assortment of disposable flash cameras and range
from 80uF - 160uF.

On this occasion I hit the jackpot as the camera recycle bin was full. I could have
selected twice as many. Different camera manufactures and even cameras from the
same company will often have caps of different ratings, ranging anywhere from 330V
80uF - 330V 160uF, and on occasion even higher. Larger capacitors with higher
voltage and uF ratings can store more energy. When hooked up in parallel the uF
ratings are cumulative. Two capacitors rated at 330V 80uF hooked up in parallel, will
have a combined rating of 330V 160uF. When hooked up in series, it is the voltage
rating that increases. The same two capacitors hooked up in series would have a
combined rating of 660V 40uF. Note how the capcitace changes with cpacitors
hooked togetherin series. Below is a simple formula to caluclate the cpacitance of
capcitors hooked up in series
The formula to calculate the combined capacitance of capacitors hooked up in
series is as follows:
Add the reciprocals of each capacitor.
To arrive at the total capacitance, divide that number into 1.
Consider that we are hooking four 80uF capcitors together in series.
1/80 + 1/80 + 1/80 + 1/80 = 0.05
Total capacitance of the four 80uf capacitors hooked together in series = 1 / 0.05
= 20 MFD
Chris Gupta offers the following general rule of thumb about capacitors hooked
together in a parallel configuration: The voltage flowing through a set of capacitors in
parallel, should not exceed the voltage of the lowest rated capacitor. For example if
you connect a 330V 80uF capacitor and a 150V 80uF capacitor together in parallel, the
combined voltage rating of the two will be 150V.

Capacitor Ratings From Various Cameras I Have Opened

All 330V
Kodak Power Flash: 120uF & 160uF (two slightly different models)
Kodak Zoom: 100uF & 120uF
Kodak FunSaver: 120uF
Polaroid Fun Shooter: 80uF
Studio 35: 80uF

In regard to capacitor (bank) C2, it will be difficult to find130uF capacitors from

disposable cameras. The highest rated capacitor I have been able to find from a
disposable camera is 160uF and out of over 100 cameras I have taken apart, I have
found only one with such a rating. Most photo-flash caps you will get out of a camera
are between 80uF and 120uF. Keep in mind however, one can mix and match
capacitors in parallel to arrive at the desired microfarad rating.
Click here for more information on capacitor charge calculations.
Observing Chris Gupta's circuit design, you see that his schematic calls for one 150V
130uF capacitor for capacitor C1. According to Gupta, it is OK to use photflash
capacitors in this location, so the easiest thing to do in this situation, is to use two
330V 80uF photoflash capacitors hooked together in parallel for capacitor C1 to
provide a combined capacitance of 160uF. Likewise for the capacitor array C2; if all
one had was 80uF caps to build a pulser with, one would want to add capacitors to the
array in parallel in order to reach the 650 combined uF (micro farads) called for in Chris
Gupta's design. In this case one might consider using 8 - 9, 80uF capacitors in parallel
providing a combined rating of 640uF and 720uF respectively. That is why the higher
the uF rating of the photoflash capacitor, the fewer capacitors one will have to use in
the capacitor bank C2.
The negative terminal of electrolytic capacitors is marked by a stripe running down the
side. Two 5-contact, Terminal Contact Bars were used to solder the photo flash
capacitors to. As the capacitors need to be connected in parallel, each Terminal

Contact Bar has a piece of 14 gage copper wire soldered at each contact across the
span of the bar to unify all contacts. The Negative pole of each capacitor is soldered to
one contact of the terminal contact bar and the same for the positive side of the
capacitors. Be sure the screw mounts are facing toward the outside. Once the
capacitors were soldered in place, I marked the hole locations on the Plexiglas subfloor and drilled the holes. The assembly was then fastened to the sub floor with 1/2
inch #4 Phillips machine screws, lock washers and nuts. See images below.
In order to avoid this whole mess of stringing capacitors together in parallel, have now
switched to using a single 1000MFD 330V Rubicon Photo-Flash capacitor for C2. Also
in compliance with Russ Torladge's (Sota Instruments) suggestion I added a high
voltage silicon rectifier across the terminals of the capacitor. Specifics and the reason
for this is explained in more detail below.
June 2016 Update. I now use a single, readily available Glan 450V 900MFD photo
flash capacitor. I noticed that the voltage in my version of Gupta's mag pulser circuit
goes as high as 400V. This is significantly higher than standard 330V photo flash
capacitors are rated for. Consequently I decided it would be safer to increase the
voltage capacity of the main (pulse) capacitor.
SOMTHING TO THINK ABOUT: Russ Torladge of Sota Instruments claims that having
a capacitor with a higher uF rating will not increase the intensity of the magnetic pulse,
but rather increases the pulse duration. So perhaps it is better to stick with a single
photo flash capacitor in the 600 - 700 uF range. Torladge uses a single 600uF
photoflash capacitor in his mag pulser device.
Most often capacitors in spent disposable cameras will still have a charge and can
shock you if touched. If you attempt to build your own pulser, please be sure to always
discharge capacitors before removing them from a camera.
SHOCK HAZARD: If you disassemble a camera, be extremely careful when removing
the cover and handling components. Avoid touching any of the circuitry until the
capacitor has been discharged. I recently got shocked from a camera that had a 330V
80uF capacitor inside, and it really hurt! The jolt went up my whole right arm and it
took about a half an hour for my hand and arm to feel normal again. Capacitors are not
to be taken lightly and should be considered dangerous and potentially lifethreatening!
During testing, when I discharged the capacitor array, it sounded like a firecracker
going off in my ear and the tips of the 14 gage wire were slightly melted. There was a
noticeable difference in the discharge strength of seven capacitors as compared to
five. One does not want to get shocked by that! A jolt like that going across one's heart

could be lethal! - Please be careful and always discharge capacitors, even if you think
they are not charged. Instructions to build a capacitor discharge tool that will safely
discharge a bank of capacitors is outlined above.
Making a Capacitor Discharge Tool: One can make
a capacitor discharge tool with two insulated alligator
clips, about 16 inches of 14 gage stranded wire and a
10,000 ohm, wire-wound, 10 Watt resistor. Solder an
insulated alligator clip to either end of the insulated
wire. Then cut the wire about 7 inches from one end,
and solder the resistor in place. Now wrap the resistor
and solder points with at least three layers of
Discharging Capacitors: Carefully connect the
alligator clips to the capacitor terminals (one clip to
each exposed terminal). The resistor will drop the
voltage down in a minute or so.

Diodes are also directional and must be installed properly. Their primary function is to
insure the flow of current is only in one direction. This symbol
is used to indicate a diode in a circuit diagram. Current flows from the cathode side to
the anode side. If they are installed with the polarity reversed, your pulser will not work.
The stripe on any diode indicates the cathode side and the negative pole.

About flying fender washers: My washers don't fly up from the center of the coil as
with some other designs. Washers on my unit fly in line with the sides of the coil. When
experimenting with this, one needs to play around with the magnetic field until one
finds the right spot. Once I figured out the correct positioning for the washer, I was
able to get a 1-1/2 inch fender washer to soar about 40 inches into the air. Pretty

Starting my Pulser for the First Time: I didn't know what to expect when I plugged
the chord into the outlet and pressed the on switch for the first time. The lights came
on momentarily and then went out. Chris Gupta told me this was normal.
Should you build your own machine based on this design, and after turning the unit on,
the lights come on and stay on, immediately turn the machine off and troubleshoot
your assembly! Also if the lights don't come on at all, then something is amiss as well. I
had rubber gloves on when I pressed the push-to-make switch for the first time. When
pressing the push-to-make switch the lights shown brightly and I could hear a slight
momentary sound from the wires in the coil. Again, Chris said this was normal. All was
well and I had successfully built my pulser. After repeated pulses, the coil will begin to
get warm. This too is normal.
Note: Always press and instantly release the push-to-make switch. The circuit is
designed for repeated but momentary bursts of electromagnetic pulses. Keeping the
push-to-make switch depressed will damage your pulser.
One should consider saturating the induction coil with some kind of resin and let it
cure, to prevent the wires inside the coil from moving when the machine is discharged.
The movement of wires inside the coil is in effect wasting energy that could be
converted into electromagnetic energy. Also, such movement over time can cause the
insulation of the magnet wire to wear through, and cause the coil to short out
internally. I purchased a large bottle of super glue available at most hobby stores and
poured a substantial amount into the coil. I then sprayed a little super glue catalyst
onto the coil that made the glue cure instantly on the surface. The catalyst is also
available at the same hobby shop where the glue is purchased. The catalyst is very
handy to speed up the curing process. I still let the coil sit over night before using it, to
make sure all of the glue had cured on the inside. Be careful when doing this, because

super glue will instantly bond skin. Also one also doesn't want to inadvertently glue the
coil to whatever it is sitting on. Use acetone for cleanup
Chris Gupta's Instructions and parts List:
Well finally, I have got all the wrinkles out my prototype SCR Thumpy. And this circuit
has definitely got the power. You can actually feel an electric current pulse when used
in the neck area - uncanny! This is subtle however. I hasten to add that power is not
the be all and end all, indeed, it is quite possible to design very effective low power
pulsers with exceptionally fast pulse rise times that can surpass the performance of
even the most powerful pulser. Unlike the high power pulsers these minimize dangers
from electromagnetic radiation. So be warned and don't get carried away with the lure
of high power! It has been long known amongst alternate energy and electromedicine
researchers that very high speed pulses have the ability to tap into some form of
radiant energy that is generally not recognized by mainstream science. Devices with
very weak but high speed pulses in nanosecond range have been build and
efficaciously used by NASA engineers. This is a well known phenomena and I have
worked it out mathematically to my satisfaction. More on this at a later date. One
theory is that such weak high speed pulses are able to by pass the cell
electromagnetic defences by their sheer speed but certainly there are other issues a
play such as tapping radiant energy... For a better description on this please see Dr.
Glen Gordon's video here. Dr. Gordon was a candidate for a heart transplant but
managed to rebuild his own heart by just such a device.
Please note that this is not a permanent magnet but a pulsed magnet and as such the
polarity is not an issue, when the pulse collapses the magnetic field reverses. Hence
one need not worry about the magnetic polarity.
I still don't like the auto types as the body gets habituated to non random pulses the
only exceptions are possilbly the natural beat frequency of the Earth magnetic field
(9.6 Hz) AND the Schumann waves (7.83 Hz) - a random pulser circuit is still the goal
but due to great demand, much against my will, have now included a constant pulsing
option for those who requested it. For the sake of simplicity a neon lamp is used.
Unfortunately neons are not very stable and tend to vary as time goes by and may
need to be replaced so use a socket for a quick change. The pulsing rate can be
changed and should be changed every so often so the body does not get
habituated, to that end I have added a switch to change the pulse rates...
To calculate the output energy use the following:
Formula: W=(CE^2)/2

W=energy in joules: C = Capacitance in farads: E = Voltage across Capacitor in volts

# capacitors
*Present circuit.
More on Capacitor Charge Calculatio re.
Any SCR with PEAK current of at least 600 to 1000 amps should work. The one shown
is 20 amp continuous with the appropriate peak rating. The lamps act as current
limiters and protect the SCR against a short circuit. The circuit can be further
simplified as discussed in point 3 below.
I have build several of these and my experience has been:
1) The capacitors develop a memory and don't fully discharge its better to use a
number of them in parallel. This reduces the internal resistance and provides a better
result and less memory loss. The caps must be designed for flash applications. They
need not all be the same value but must be the minimum voltage rating stated.
2) In the original Beck based designs the flash tube heats and develops some
resistance so you need to have enough time between flashes for them to cool down.
This has been eliminated in my circuit, however, you still need some time for the
capacitors to charge up. The larger the capacitor bank the longer it will take to charge
up. Those planning to incorporate the automatic version must be mindful of this and
adjust the timer circuit to compensate this effect.
3) Using a high current SCR (forces the caps to fully discharge by providing a longer
connection than the strobe) and parallel caps from disposable cameras I can now
consistently get 12 - 18 inch jumps with #14 fender washers. You can cycle them very
fast (though not recommended). All for less than $30 to $50 Cdn. The most expensive
part is the coil which can cost as much a $20 unless you build it yourself! One can
further reduce the cost if at a latter date you don't want to upgrade to auto pulsing.
This can be accomplished by removing the 10k resistor and the SCR and by simply
wiring the a push to close switch in line to the coil. Don't recommend this unless you
just can't get an SCR or really need to reduce cost. MAKE SURE THE PUSH BUTTON
More info regarding other coils options etc. is available at:
Coil winding instructions from Dr. Beck's paper are:
"Junk VHS videocassette reels are cheap, plentiful and adequate for this application.
Remove 5 screws from shell, remove reels and discard tape. Be SURE alternative
spools (if used) are non-conductive or system will not work. Avoid shorter length VHS
tape reels which may have center hubs larger than 1" dia. and won't hold sufficient
wire. Drill 1/4" holes through hub and through center of flange(s). Make two 4" discs
from 1/4" thick plastic or fiberboard, drill 1/4" center holes and another 1/4" hole offcenter so coil's inside lead wire can be pulled through. These 'stiffeners' will sandwich
reel's flanges so they won't warp or split as wire pressure builds up while winding
progresses. A 2" (or longer) 1/4-20 machine nut and bolt with washers through centers
will clamp flange stiffeners and reel and also provide a shaft to hold in a variable speed
drill motor or similar winding device if used. Then remove bolt and stiffeners.
Specifications: Completely fill tape spool with #14 or 16 enameled copper magnet wire
(130 to 160 turns) wound onto the 1" dia. hub and 3-1/2" OD spool with a gap width for
wire of 5/8". Scrape enamel insulation 1/2" from ends and tin. Pull inside end of magnet
wire through hub and stiffener and to outside. ~130 turns (about About 1-1/2 lbs
should fill spool. Remove bolt, stiffeners, and finished coil. Now solder ends of 3 ft of
heavy two-wire extension cord to each side of coil. Finished coil weighs ~1 LB 3 oz, has
~0.935 millihenry inductance, 0.34 ohm resistance, and takes ~20 minutes to hand
wind or ~3 minutes with drill motor. An excellent alternative is an AMS brand air-core
crossover inductor for home audio, #16 gauge, 2.5mH, 2-1/2" dia., $17.90 from
Madisound speaker components.
Chris Gupta's EM Pulser Circuit

Those interested in using a 12 V DC source use a cheap 75 watt car inverter I bought
one on sale for just $7 Cdn! Simply remove one of the bulbs. This of course is easier if
at least one bulb is in a socket.

Most Current Chris Gupta Magnetic Pulser Info and Photos

I recently switched to using a single Rubicon 330V 1000MFD photo flash
capacitor and also to a new surface mount SCR (details above in SCR section). I
purchased the new capcitor for $10 on E-Bay.
I also followed Russ Torlage's recommendation and installed a MR756 silicone
rectifier diode across the capacitor's terminals in order to prevent current from
traveling back across the capacitor an damaging or destroying it. Below in italics,
is what Russ Torladge, owner of Sota Instruments has to say about it.
The main on/off switch is an illuminated rocker switch I purchased at Radio
The switch to fire the gate on the SCR is a momentary toggle switch. I created a
grounding connector for the momentary switch out of a piece of thick copper
plate that I had laying around.
Strain reliefs have been implemented for both cables coming into the box.
This is a pretty powerful EMP device! I did notice recently that this big 1000 MFD
capacitor takes a full six to seven seconds to charge.
"When the capacitor gets fully charged, we must dump this high energy into the coil
somehow. Originally a Xenon photoflash tube was used as a thyratron switch (the
Xenon gas is ignited to a plasma which provides a low impedance path for the electron
flow) for the do-it-yourself'ers. The Xenon tube presents about 1-3 ohms of resistance
when ionized. It makes a good switch, but it does restrict peak current flow. Ringing
can and does occur with the capacitor-coil combination because the current can backfeed into the capacitor. (This ringing affect can allow reverse-biasing of the main
capacitor; degrading it's life-span very quickly or destroying the capacitor under
extreme conditions.) When a capacitor is in series with an inductor in this manner, it is
known as an L-C (Inductive from the coil and Capacitive from the capacitor) circuit.
Xenon tubes get hot, and they waste energy in the form of heat and (of course) light. A
better switch is an SCR (Silicon Controlled Rectifier) of appropriate voltage and current
rating (800-1000 Volts @ 25 Amps is a good start.). An SCR provides a one-way path
of current flow from capacitor to coil, inherently preventing ringing and therefore
saving the capacitor from reverse-biasing. This one-way path ensures the output
magnetic field is DC based or uni-polar. This means North magnetic pole will always be
on one side of the coil, and will not change to South pole at any time.
NOTE: Although a typical SCR is a fast operating device, there will always be a "deadtime" where the device is in a conductive state (known as tq which is typically = 35uS).
This can allow reverse voltages to appear across the main capacitor which may
eventually lead to a much shortened lifetime or the complete destruction of the
capacitor. So, in order to prevent such an event we need to suppress this high-power

content reverse voltage spike across the main capacitor. The simplest, effective and
most economical way is to place a high-current diode in reverse, across the leads of
the main capacitor. The CATHODE (-) lead of the diode connects to the POSITIVE (+)
terminal of the capacitor. Remember, this reverse-voltage spike can contain many
joules so you must use an adequately rated diode. We use an MR756 silicon rectifier. It
is rated at 600 Volts DC, 6 Amps continuous and 400 Amps peak surge. I measured
over 80 Amps of current in the reverse-voltage spike. WARNING: If you do not use a
similar rated diode, it may very well blow up in your face! I know, because I had this
happen many times while taking measurements. Scares the heck out of you!"

March 28, 2015

Please post any successes, failures, comments or questions on on my FaceBook

Some individuals have posted claims that Chris' design is flawed. I for one, can attest
that his design is sound and works well. If after constructing your device it fails to
work, it is most certainly an error in construction. If your device does not work, the
capacitor polarity may be incorrect, one or more diodes may have incorrect polarity, a
component may be burned out or defective, or there is an error somewhere in how
things were assembled and soldered. Watch for any arching on your component board.
Update MAR/23/2016 My bulbless, auto-pulsing Bob Beck mag pulser is here!
Price $399. For more information and to purchase this device please click on This Link.