THE

ITALIAN

BOOK

COOK
The

Art of

EatingWell

RECIPES

PRACTICAL
OF

THE

CUISINE

ITALIAN

BY

COMPILED

GENTILE

MARIA

MRS.

BOOK

ITALIAN
NEW

YORK

CO.

1919

COPYRIGHT

BY

ITALIAN

BOOK

CO.

PREFACE
One

of the beneficial results of the Great

has been

the

the preparing and

be

to

at

for

bestowed

been

has

reasons

cooking of food that

palatable,nourishing and

once

In the

American

the

and

attention

more

economy,

upon

to

For patrioticreasons

housewife.
of

teaching of thrift

War

Italian cuisine

find in

we

is

mical.
econo-

the

highest
palatable,

degree these three qualities.That it is

all those who
have partaken of food in an Italian
Italian family can
of an
trattoria or at the home
testify,that
and

healthy the splendid manhood

than
of Italyis a proof more
the
could deny, knowing
who

it is

womanhood

sufficient.

And

thriftiness of the Italian

It has

therefore

with
and

thought that

RECIPES

PRACTICAL
CUISINE

been

to

It is

not

success.

the recipeshave

been

the American
a

of

book

ITALIAN

THE

OF

could be offered

hope of

cal?
that it is economi-

race,

public

pretentious book,

made

as

clear and

ple
sim-

possible. Some of the dishes described are

All, however, are representapeculiarto Italy.
tive
of the Cucina
Casalinga of the peninsular

as

not

Kingdom, which is not the least product of

the
whom
and simple people, among
living well and
a

moderate

getting the

expense

high degree.

has been

most

out

attained

able
lov-

art

of life
to

of
at

very

SOUP

OR

BROTH

STOCK

(Brodo)
To

obtain

cold

"soup
and

To

water,
it

is

A
for
thin

good

slices
some

that

they

cover

be
six

hours,

Pour

Strain

Cut

them

in

cold

renewed.
on

liquid

in

cheese

in

saucepan;

them,
the

closed

and

on

fire for

so

pan
sauce-

place
which

water,

cloth.

used

beef

Cover

Keep

strong

be

to

upon

receptacle containing

the

are

soups

some

large

water

hermetically

then

has

promote

to

broth

following:

constantly

broth

Italian

the

substantial

for

is

the

broth.

place

it

broth,
diluted

fire, then

that

entirely covered.

are

that

so

the

and
salt.

add

all

Nearly

is the

carrots

the

to

it is excellent

of

and

bones

added.

power,

recipe

invalids

the

at

ly.
slow-

celery,

color

brown

considered

basis

on

of

pieces

in

put

boil

to

instance,
a

be

not

digestion.

made

give

may

nutritive

the

for

be

must

meat

some

first browned

sugar,

cold

the

allowed

meat
as,

parsley.

much

for

then

the

to

While

must

and

greens"

some

on

broth

water,

Add

in

good

low
ten

fire
utes.
min-

The
is

stock, besides being used

soup

for soups,
of Italian

ingredient in hundreds

necessary

dishes.

SOUP
This
hats"

OF

is called of

Soup

"Cappelletti"or "little
shape of the "Cappellet-

of the

account

on

"CAPPELLETTI"

ti."
First
the

thin sheet of paste is made

following directions:

The

best and

of eggs,

tender

most

flour and

paste is made

salt,water

flour

to

make

Use

an

hollow

any

Put

egg.

the flour

in the middle

extra

whites

that

thoroughly, adding

is necessary,

sand

but any

papered, will

serve

about
on

board,

in the egg.

hand.

on

of

cup

bread

break

less

Knead

flour

more

until you
have a paste you
thin as an
eighth of an
as

pin

are

when

or

and

simply

be substituted

may

for part of the eggs, for economy,

rich paste is needed.
Allow

it

according to

can

if necessary,
roll out.
Roll it

inch.

long rolling

stick,well scrubbed
in lieu of the

and

long Italian

rollingpin.
Cut
about
each
be

from

this sheet of paste rounds

three inches

circle place

made

with

or

In the middle

that
spoonful of filling

beforehand,

(chicken, pork
seasoned

in diameter.

measuring

composed

veal) ground

of cooked
very

of

must
meat

fine and

grated cheese, grated lemon

peel,

salt. The ground meat

allspice,
with an equal amount
of curds

nutmeg,
be mixed

is to
or

tage
cot-

cheese.
When

the

is placed in the circleof paste,

filling
fold the latter over
and moisten
the edge of the
it
to make
paste with the finger dipped in water
stay securelyclosed.
These cappelletti
should be cooked in chicken

beef broth until the paste is tender, and

with this broth as a soup.
or

BREAD

served

SOUP

(Panata)
This excellent and

nutritious

for using the stale bread

be thrown

that

is

soup
must

never

godsend
again

It is composed of bread crumbs

away.

and

grated bread, eggs, grated cheese, nutmeg

gether
(in very small quantity) and salt,all mixed toand
put in broth previously prepared,

which

be

must

but
it

on

low

left over

not

of the immersion,

moment

the boilingpoint. Then

at

fire and

may

the

at

warm

stir

gently. Any

place
vegetable

be added.
4

GNOCCHI
This
boiled

is
or

an

roast

excellent

soup,

but

breast of chicken
7

as
or

it

requires

turkey

it is

well

make

to

it

only \vhen these ingredientsare

handy.
Prepare a certain quantity of boiled potatoes,
the mealy kind
the
being preferred. Mash
and

potatoes

them

mix

chicken

with

breast well

ground, grated cheese

Swiss), two or more
yolks of

or

and

small quantity of nutmeg.

the bread board

on

sufficient
as

in

thick

to

make

Pour

or

key
tur-

san
(Parmesalt

eggs,

the

pound
com-

quantity of flour
sticks
paste and roll it in little
with

tle
finger. Cut the sticks in litpieces about half an inch long and put them
Five or six minutes' cooking
boilingwater.
as

the small

will be sufficient.
5

VEGETABLE

SOUP

(Zuppa Sante)
kind

of

be used for this

vegetablesmay
carrots, celery,cabbage, turnips, onions,
soup:
potatoes, spinach, the outside leaves of lettuce

Any

or

of any variety.
Select three or four kind of
greens

vegetables,shred

or

chop coarselycabbage or greens, and slice or cut

the
in cubes the root vegetables. Put them over
firewith a small quantity of cooking oil or butter
sorbed
substitute,and let them fry until they have abthe fat.

the vegetablesare

Then
very

stale bread in oil and

add

broth

tender.
serve

them

and

Fry

cook
croutons

in the soup.

until
of

SOUP

QUEEN'S

(Zuppa Regina)
This

is made

which

is to be

with

in the

(5
the

to

or

grindertogether
6) for one
quart

be added

richer and

an

broth,

or

egg,

one

hot broth

paste and
wish

If you

them.

have

yolk of

smooth

very
to

in milk

add

fifth of the tity

quanAll these ingredientsare
to be

meat.
a

almond

and

meat

proportion of about

rubbed

have

To

meat

of chicken,

meat

crumbs, firstsoaked

of the

the

in

almonds

stock.

bread

some

to

ground

blanched

of chicken,

the white

with

the soup

should

which

be

to

milky consistency,

more

is

use

be beaten, and

few

tablespoonfulsof hot broth stirred into

it before adding to the soup.
Do not let the soup
a

boil after the

One

is added

egg

or

slice of stale bread

fried in

deep fat,and the

may

be

cut

into cubes,

put in the soup.

dish of grated cheese.

croutons

it to the table with

Send

it will curdle.

7
BEAN

(Zuppa
One

is to be soaked

cold
to

water

di

fagiuoli)

of dried beans,

cup

It is

SOUP

kidney, navy

or

lima

der.
night. Then boil until tenpreferableto put the beans to cook in

with

boil,pour

over

pinch of soda. When

off this

water

and

add

they come
fresh.

Chop fine !/ionion,

sprig of parsleyand
them to fry in j/"CUP

garlic,one
piece of celeryand put

one

of pepper.
delicate brown
add

of oil with salt and

When

amount

broth from
or

to

the beans and

the

them
1 cup

fresh). Let all come

the mixture
of the

some

clove of

one

to

has been

of the

cups

ned
(can-

tomatoes

boil and

into the kettle of beans

water

rous
gene-

vegetablesare

two

of

from

pour

which

drained, if they

are

liquid. This soup may be served as it is or

rubbed through a sieve before serving. Croutons
tion.
or
trianglesof dry toast make an excellent addivery

The

bean

is made

soup

without

meat

or

cken
chi-

belongs consequently to that

called by the Italians "Minestra di
class of soup
to be served preferably
Magro" or "lean soup,
Friday and other days in which the Roman
on
Catholic Church
prohibitsthe use of meats.
broth, and

it

SOUP

LENTIL

(Zuppa di lenticchie)
The
as

lentil soup

the bean

beans.

soup,

prepared in the same

way
only substitutinglentils for

is

good combination is that of lentilsand

of the lentilsare not
rice. The nutritive qualities
known
in this country, but all books
sufficiently
dietetics speak very
on
highly of them.
A

10

9
VEGETABLE

CHOWDER

(Minestrone alia Milanese)

Cut

off the rind of

quarts of

into two

slice of the
or

leaves

of

boil.

to

paste with
littleceleryand

it to

parsley,a

off

Cut

it

small
two
one

this paste to the pork and

of the
carrots, cut the rib out

garlic. Add

Slice

water.

water

pork and beat

three sprigs of

kernel of

]/iIb. salt pork and put

two

Y^ medium

sized cabbage.

Add

the

cabbage leaves, other vegetables,seasoning

and butter to the soup, and let it boil slowly
small
for 2 ]/2hours.
The last j/2hour add one

carrots,

handful

of rice for each person.

the pork is very soft, remove

When

in littleribbons

The

and

minestrone

and

slice

put it back.
is

equally good

eaten

cold.

10

RAVIOLI
Put

the bread

on

board

about

pounds of

two

heap ; make a hollow in the middle and

put in it a piece of butter, three egg-yolks,
uls of lukewarm
salt and three or four tablespoonf
Make
knead it well, then let
water.
a paste and
it stand for an
hour, wrapped or covered with a
flour in

linen cloth. Then

as

thin

as

spread the paste

ten-cent
piece,
11

to

thin sheet,

Chop and

cken
grind pieces of roast or boiled chiadd to it an
equal part of marrow

meat:

from

the bones

crumbs

yolks, some
broth

of beef and pieces of brains, three

and

of bread

soaked

grated cheese

some

in milk

(Parmesan

or
or

Swiss). Rub

through a sieve and make littleballs

as
big as a hazel-nut,which are to be placed at
than an
inch) in
equal distances (a littlemore
a

line
Beat

with

the sheet of paste.

whole
and pass it
egg

over
a

brush

all around

these with another

intervals between
each section from
the

in cold water,

them

press
a

fork.

salt

or,

then

to

butter

knife. Moisten

fingerdipped
them stick together,and
make
with the fingersor the prongs
of

to

put

to

with

boil in

the

seasoned

water

be served

hot seasoned

with brown

stock

or

with

The

ravioli

with

cheese

better still,in broth.

or

Cover

sheet of paste, press down

the
each ball,and then separate

section

down

Then

the littleballs.

the other with

edges of each

the paste

over

tomato

are

and

sauce.

11
PAVESE

SOUP

(Zuppa alia Pavese)

Cut

as

many

thin slices of bread

in order that each

of them.
browned

These

person

slicesare

with butter.

may

have

then

to

Poach
12

as

two

are

at

needed

least

two

be toasted and
eggs

for each

slices

on

each

on

one

person,

to

Swiss

and

place the

large and

deep dish (not in a soup

hot broth in the plate,taking care

tureen). Pour
not

slice of bread

break

the eggs,
cheese, and serve.

with

season

Parmesan

or

PASTE
MACARONI

SPAGHETTI,

ETC.

(Pasta Asciutta)
The

Italians

the

spaghettior macaroni
and
at the beginning of the meal, in place of soup,
Asciutta or
of Minestra
they give it the name
"dry"

soup.

serve

Besides

is served

paste

the familiar
other

in many

different seasoning.

This

popular Italian dish, and

it

is
seems

spaghetti,the

forms

and

by far the
to

have

with
most

ed
pleas-

peoples of the earth.

The highly nutritive qualities
of spaghettiand of
cheese, their indispensablecondiment, have been
recognized by all diet authorities and, as for its
the

taste

of

all the

the lovers of spaghettiare

palatableness,

just as

of

Italy as

enthusiastic

and

outside

numerous

of that blessed

within

the boundaries

The

popular seasoning for spaghetti,are

stock and anchovy sauce.
brown
sauce,

tomato

The

most

country.

descriptionof these three condiments

13

lows:
fol-

12
TOMATO

SAUCE

(Salsa di Pomidoro)

Chop together,fine,one quarter of an onion, a

clove of garlic,
a
piece of celeryas long as your
finger,a few bay leaves and just enough parsley.
Season

with

littleoil,salt and

cut

pepper,

up

and put everything over

eighttomatoes
the fire together. Stir it from time to time and
the juice condensing into a thin
when
see
you
custard strain through a sieve, and it is ready

seven

for

or

use.

When

fresh

tomatoes

not

are

available

the

be used. This is a concentrated

paste may
from tomatoes
and spices which
paste made

tomato

be

is

to

so

numerous

had,

at

it is

much

recipes. Catsup and

do

make

not

too

seasoned

used

ingredientin Italian

concentrated

Of

salt and

with

bit of

be used instead of fresh

This
on

sauce

serves

boiled meat;
or

many

excellent

same

to

on

soup

they

to

it.
14

are

tomatoes

bay leaf, can

ways
al-

tomatoes.

It is good

dress macaroni,

have been

ghetti
spa-

seasoned

boiled rice seasoned

(see Risotto). Mushrooms

way

fine addition

as

purposes.

other pastes which

with butter and cheese, or

in the

tomato

canned

course
a

Thinned

cities.

substitutes
satisfactory

in flavor.

sweet

Italian grocers', now

all American

in

with water,

all

are

When

using concentrated

paste the

following

recipeswill be found to give good results :

Chop one onion, one carrot and a celerystalk:
form

littlebunch

of

parsleyand other aromatic

and put everythingto brown
in a saucepan
greens
togetherwith a piece of butter. Add a reasonable
portion of tomato
paste while cooking, stir
and keep on
low fire until the sauce
a
assumes
the

consistency.

necessary

13

BROWN

STOCK

(Sugo di Came)
Cover

the bottom

of beef taken
of salt

juicy

over

butter

some

bit of left

salt and

cooked

over

cloves.

Put

small pieces

and

smell

turn

the

meat

quite brown

add

latter three times.

steaks

in

small

the whole

cover

and

roasts

or

with

Season

meat.

the onions
and

cup

and

rot,
car-

one

the fire without

over

you

When

brown,

cut

trimmings from

any

with thin slices

saucepan

large onion,
stalk of celery,all chopped

pieces. Add

any

from

pork. Place

and

with

of

getting

very

everything

when

of water,

Finally add

ing.
stirr-

renewing
a

certain

is

the

tity
quan-

of broth, and
boilingwater
or, better still,
boil gently five or six hours.
Strain, cool

of
let it
and

skim

top of the

off the fat which

liquid.
15

will form

cake

on

The

meat

be used afterward

can

for

balls

meat

Croquettes. The stock may be kept for

dishes.
days and forms the basis for many
or

some

14

ANCHOVY

SAUCE

(Salsa d'Acciughe)
This recipe does

not

call for the filets of

chovies
an-

prepared for hors d'ceuvre,but the less

expensive and largerwhole anchovies in salt to
be had in bulk or cans
Wash
at large dealers.
them
Remove
thoroughly in plenty of water.
and skin and they are ready
head, toil,backbone
for

use.

Put

five

or

six anchovies

into

dip quickly into boilingwater

the

remove

them

and

put

salt, skin and

over

to

colander

loosen the skins,

bone

the fire in

them.

saucepan

quantity of oil and some

let them boil,but when
they are

generous
not

tablespoons of butter and

of

concentrated

three

tomato

canned
tomatoes
cooking down
this sauce
through a sieve. When
be boiled
spaghetti,these must
salted and care
must
only slightly
let them

become

too

soft. The

or

Chop
with

16

Do

pepper.

hot add
four

two

spoons
table-

by
juice made
and
rubbing
is used to

season

in water

that is

be taken

not

to

quantitiesabove

ought to be sufficient for about

pound of spaghetti.

mentioned

and

one

16
MACARONI

SAUCE

WITH

(Maccheroni al sugo)
The

appreciated kind

most

those seasoned

with

tomato

of macaroni

sauce

or

12 and 13). The

(see nos.
boiled as above, then drained in
stock

are

with brown

macaroni

are

colander,

turned
re-

the saucepan
and mixed with the sauce
grated cheese. For those who like it some
to

and

be added

butter may

in the

mixing.

17

MACARONI

(Maccheroni
After

and

salsa

con

the paste is drained

the

well mixed

d'acciughe)
thoroughly

the hot dish in which

be put into

anchovy

with

two

SAUCE

ANCHOVY

WITH

it is to be

poured

sauce

it is to

over

silver forks until the

ved
ser-

it and
sauce

be
through it. Some olive oil may
added, but grated cheese is not generally used
with the anchovy sauce.
has gone

all

18

MACARONI

LA

CORINNA

(Maccheroni alia Corinna)

Put
water

it

on

to

the fire a pot with two

quarts of salted
which add a small piece of butter. When

begins to boil put

in it
18

24 Ib.

macaroni.

Let

it boil for five minutes,

Put

them

then drain them

in

again

prepared as

above

and

fire. Drain

them

again.

in

lander.
co-

boilingwater,

new

let them

cook

Cover

on

slow

of

the bottom

and cover
platewith macaroni
with grated cheese and with some

this first layer

vegetablesin

macedoine, that is,chopped fine and fried brown

with

butter.

the
Repeat the draining, moisten
with the water
in which they have previously
and keep on
cooked
low fire for ten
a

macaroni

minutes

more.

Macedoine

The
with
half

dozen

carrot

cut

big

in

mushrooms
Melt

add the
and

some

and

carrots

in

dozen

cabbage,
littlepieces,a
one

small

dozen

made

onions,

mushrooms.
be

can

and

saucepan

the onions

The
omitted.

when

more

or

then add the mushrooms

pepper,

and
and

the

the

half cooked,

are

sprouts. Put in some

butter, boil for ten minutes

cabbage

salt and

or

the asparagus

butter in

turnips,the

cut

thin slices,a

and

some

sprouts

asparagus

turnips and half

some

be

vegetables can

Bruxelles

dozen

of

asparagus,

littlesugar

water

and
ing
add-

if this is

desired.
19

"AU

MACARONI

GRATIN"

(Maccheroni al gratin)
Boil the macaroni
and drain them.

in salted water

Butter

until tender

slightly
a
fireproof
casse19

lay on the bottom some

grated cheese
Alternate the layersof cheese
and grated bread.
and on the top layer of macaroni
with macaroni
cheese and bread grated. Over
the
put more
melted butter,cover
the cassewhole pour
some
role,
with
(or pyrex plate)and put it in the oven
until
low fire. Keep for ten minutes
a
or
more,
role and

browned.

the top appears

20
NAPOLITAINE

MACARONI

(Maccheroni alia Napoletana)

Grind
in

'/4lb. salt pork

While

saucepan.

or

it is

bacon

and

frying put

fry it
one

out

small

the pork
through the grinder. As soon
as
begins to brown add the onion, the parsleychopped,
clove (or small section) of garlicshredded
a
onion

fine,and
been

few

dried mushrooms

which

have

softened

When
water.
by soaking in warm
the vegetablesare very brown
(greatcare must

be taken

not

to

the onion, which

burn

scorches

steak ground
easily) add ]/2 Mb. round
the meat
coarselyor cut up in littlecubes. When
is a good brown
fresh or canned
color,add some
half a tablespoonfulof tomato
tomatoes
or
paste
and simmer
slowly until all has cooked down to
thick creamy
It will probably take 24
a
sauce.
hour.
The sauce
be bound togetherwith a
may
very

littleflour if it shows

tendency
20

to

separate.

This

is used

sauce

to

dress all kinds

of

roni
maca-

and

sotto).
spaghetti,also for boiled rice (see RiThe
macaroni
or
spaghetti should be
left unbroken
when
cooked.
If they are too long
end in the boiling
to fitin the kettle immerse
one
salted

water

of the

spaghettiunder the

so

and

that the

in

rest

kettle. Be careful

few

very

can

pushed down

overcook

to

not

will become

water

be

and

handful

put in a hot soup

of grated cheese over
Lift with

sauce.

into the

Drain

it will
it

fully
care-

Sprinkle a

tureen.

it and

pour

on

the

thoroughly

until

forks

two

ened
soft-

it,and

be pasty, but firm and tender.

not

the ends

minutes

mixed.

21

OIL

WITH

FRIED

MACARONI

(Maccheroni all'olio)
After the macaroni
put them
oil has

in

Let the paste

doesn't stick

to

have

to

the bottom

it is well

boiled drain them

in which

alreadyboiled,with

fine.

when

saucepan

have

browned

some

clove of

hot.

Add

no

21

that it
and

of the saucepan,
one

the other side browned.

very

good olive
ped
garlicchop-

fry,taking care
on

cheese.

and

side,

turn

Serve the

it
caroni
ma-

22
.

MILANAISE

RISOTTO

(Risottoalia Milanese)
Melt
Brown

small

piece of butter

in the butter

When

in thin slices.

medium

the onion

in

saucepan.

sized onion,

cut

browned,

take

is

the saucepan
and add littleby little
the rice,stirringit with a wooden
Every
spoon.
from

it away

hot broth
dry,add some
ed.
(or hot water) until the rice is completely cooksalt and pepper
and a littlesaffron,if
Add

time

that the rice becomes

you

like it.
When

brown

the rice is almost

stock.

some

butter.

must

not

before

Dress
Mix

with

well and

be allowed

to

cooked, add

some

cheese

parmesan
serve

it

to

and

This dish

hot.

be overcooked

cooled

or

eating.
23

RISOTTO

CHICKEN

WITH

GIBLETS

II)

(Risotto alia Milanese

The

be made
for this risotto may
by
together the giblets,neck and tips of

broth

cooking
wings

of

chicken

be made

may

from

which

is to be

the left-overs of

Boil the rice until it is about

water.

Then

let the

water

roasted, or
roast

half done

cook

away

it

fowl.
in salted

and

begin

adding the broth, in such quantity that the rice

will be nearlydry when it is tender. Fry one
chop22

ped

small

up

in the oil

onion

to."

are

Mince

cheese

and

the chicken

mushrooms

good addition

very

Stir the mixture

onion.

from

fat. Some

or

beaten

to

cut

this "Soffrit-

gibletsand

add

into the rice. Add

the

to

grated

just as the rice is taken

egg

the fire.
24

piselli)

(Risotto con
Wash

and

dry 1 j/2Ib. rice

sized onion
small

and

it

put

chop fine

one

dium
me-

the fire with

on

quantity of butter.

When

is well

the onion

littleby little,
stirringwith

browned, add the rice

wooden

spoon.

Add

Drain the
boilingwater one cup at a time.
previouslyprepared (fresh or canned peas
peas
the end of
be used) and add them toward
may
the whole is almost cooked,
the cooking. When
some

add

almost

take it away

salt and

some

dry. Add

some

from

butter, stir and

the
serve

water

hot.

25

RISOTTO

WITH

LOBSTER

(Risotto coi gamberi)

For this risotto either lobster
be used

the former

or

crab

meat

is,however, considered

can
more

ought to be about
half the weight of the rice employed.
A little
than a pound of rice and half this weight
more
tasty.

The

lobster

or

crab

23

meat

of crab

ought

be

enough for six persons.

Chop fine a sprig of parsley,a stalk of celery,
clove of garlicand
onion
one
carrot, half an
a
brown the whole in good olive oil. When
ed,
brownmeat

add

the crab

to

and

meat

salt and

with

season

During the cooking process stir and

the crabs, and when
they have become

turn

pepper.
over

much

pour

over

cook

the rice.

as

After

the

water

boils for

water

lobster (or crab, or

is necessary

as

while,

to

the

remove

craw-fish)leavingthe

pan
sauce-

the fire. Put half of the crabs aside, and

on

grind the

rest.

and

put

sieve

hot

red,

saucepan

melt

Stir and

add

Rub

the

ground

it back

through the

meat

In another

the fire.

on

butter and put into it littleby

littlethe rice that has been washed
and dried.

When

the broth

the first saucepan.

cooked add the craw-fish

from

the rice is almost

that you

have

from
pour

some

over

put

aside, or

rather its

the shells,take

it the fish mixture,

from

adding

meat

tracted
ex-

the fire and

grated

some

cheese.
26
RICE

WITH

SAFFRON

(Riso alia Milanese

Wash
broth

and

(beef or

dry the

Zafferano)

rice and

chicken

broth).

is half cooked

add

beef bone,

into small

cut

con

put it in boiling
When

half its weight of

24

the rice
marrow

of

pieces. A few minutes

cold

and

water

them, but

not

into the flour

Beat

it.

to

froth,then
the

the

in the egg,
egg

Throw

serve

an

but

egg,

to

not

the

out

artichokes

take

to

superfluous flour and then put them

leaving them for a while so that the
the

they are

well browned,

white,

squeeze

the artichokes

them.

to

by one
pieces one
boilingfat,butter

with lemon.

to

of

attached

yolk with the white and salt

Shake

remain

and

the

mix

there is

when

that the latter remains

so

be attached

may

where

they are well washed, dry

thoroughly,putting them at once

the white

whole.

away

when

pan

olive oil,and

or

take them

away

and

If it is desired that the artichokes

it is better to

half lemon
are

the

into

put

into

fry them
the

water

in oil

where

soften.

to

29

STEAMED

ARTICHOKES

(Carcion
Artichokes

have

vapore)

been

only recentlyimported
the United
to
States, principallyby Italian
farmers, and they are just beginning to find their
way

into the American

may

be

eaten

raw

or

kitchen.
cooked.

The

It is

artichokes

healthy and

palatablevegetable,easilydigestedwhen cooked.
It is nutritious and adapted for convalescents. It
and here
be prepared in a thousand
may
ways,
tasteful.
follow some
of the simplestand most
To prepare
the steamed
artichokes they must
26

firstbe cleaned and

inch.

an

Put

their bottoms,
more

of

middle

put

or

as

much

the stalk

them
one

in

In

standing on

saucepan,

an

salt and

in the

and

inside

pepper,

cooked

by the

and

inch

an

opening made

good olive oil as they may

well the saucepan

artichokes, that

less than half

to

the other, in half

near

water.

cut

it

put

pour

contain.

Cover

the fire. The

on

already seasoned, will be

are

steam.

30

STEWED

ARTICHOKES

(Carciofiin stufato)
Wash
the

the artichokes

leaves

insert

the other.
cook

oil. Place

standing

saucepan

for

two

the

composed of bread crumbs, parsely,

and

salt,pepper

part of
leaves and

the hard

cut

Widen

(the top).

hash

and

hours

easilydetached

their stalk, one

on

them

Cover

or

they

the artichokes

with

water

When

more.

and

in the

touching
let them

the leaves

are

cooked.

are

31

ARTICHOKES

WITH

BUTTER

(Carciofial burro)

as

two

Wash,

dry and

many

artichokes

or

four and

cut

out
as

are

boil them
27

the top of the leaves of

needed.

Cut

in salt water.

them

When

in

tender, drain them, have them

in melted

When

pyramid

butter and
served in
on

with salt and

season

vegetable dish

round

slightlybrowned
pepper.

placed in a
plate,sprinklewith grated
or

cheese.

32

FRIED

SQUASH

(Zucchine fritte)
The

squashes used by Italians for frying and

other purposes
small, and for this reaare
son
very
small squashes.
they are called "Zucchine"
or
They can be bought at those shops kept by Italian
in
to be found
vegetable dealers that are now
American
in most
cities and, invariabl
large number
in Italian neighborhoods during the summer
The "Zucchine"
extremely
season.
are
an
good when
tasty vegetableand they are especially
fried.

Select the squashes that

wash
an

them

cut

aside for

hour

an

don't

dry them.

in

sieve

to

half

the softer part of the

them
moderately. Leave

away

salt

and

long and thin:

in littlestripsless than

them

inch thick. Take

interior

are

or

then

two,

Put them

drain

them

but

in flour and rub

gently
the superfluous flour:

take away
after put them

where
in a saucepan
immediately
there is already oil,fat or butter boiling. At the
beginning don't touch them to avoid breaking,
28

and

only when
stir them

they have
and

become
when

remove

littlehardened

they begin to be

browned.
33
LAMB

OMELET

(Agnello in frittat a)
Cut

in littlepieces

loin of lamb, which

is the

part that lends itself best for this dish, and fry
in lard: a littlequantity of lard is sufficient,
cause
bethe

of the loins is rather fat.

meat

half cooked

salt and

with

season

pepper

When
and

when

four or five whole

fullycooked pour over
slightlybeaten also seasoned moderately
eggs
with salt and pepper.
that the
Mix, taking care
do

eggs

harden.

not

34
FRIED

CHICKEN

(Poliofritto)
Wash

for

water

spring chicken

Cut

minute.

one

joints, roll them

and

keep in boiling
into pieces at the

in flour, season

with

salt and

After
dip in two whole beaten eggs.
leaving the pieces of chicken for half an hour,
roll them in bread crumbs, repeatingthe operation
pepper

and

with
Put into a saucepan
if necessary.
boilingoil or fat,seeing that the pieces of chicken
twice

are

low.

well browned
Serve

on

hot with

both
lemon.
29

sides.

Keep the fire

35
CHICKEN

ALLA

CACCIATORA

(Polio alia cacciatora)

than
keep it for more
half an hour in cold water, then dry it and brown
Cut up a chicken, sprinklethe pieces
it aside.

Chop

with

flour, salt and

which

is brown

and

tomatoes

and

back

put

frying

add

half

but

way,

of

boiled may

be
and

young

course

is

the burning

Fowls

tough chickens.

cook

to

gravy

the pan tightlyand

This is
tender.
is very

until the chicken

excellent way
which
have been

peppers

the

prevent

to

the

canned

or

green

When

onion.

enough add hot water

of the vegetables. Cover

an

When

pan.

sweet

thick

simmer

in the fat

saute

pint fresh

one

dozen

the

and

pepper

the

in

remains

chicken

and

largeonion

one

cooked
tender

in

this

chickens

the finer flavor.

will have

36

CORN

SAUSAGES

WITH

MEAL

salsicce)

(Polenta con
Cook

making

in
a

water

one

stiff mush.

cup

cool

spread out

half

inch thick. Then

an

yellow cornmeal

Salt it well and

cooked

to

of

on

cut

squares.
30

when

it is

bread board about

the mush

into

small

Put in
a

several whole

saucepan

littlewater,

crush them

when

and

and add

they

brown

some

skin and

cooked

are

with

sausages

stock

or

tomato

sauce.

Put the

proof
polenta (or cornmeal mush) in a firewith grated cheese, the
season
receptacle,

crushed
in the

and

sausages

and

oven

piece of butter.

when

serve

Put

it

hot.

37
PIE

POLENTA

(Polenta Pasticciata)
Make
milk.

Salt it well and

board

in

spread

sheet about

of cornmeal

stiffmush

very

inch

one

in littlediamonds

cold, cut

out

or

on

cooked

the bread

thick.

squares

in

and

When

place

baking dish. Prepare the Boaccording to the following recipe:

lognese souce
Chop |/4Ib. round steak, a slice of pork or bacon,
small carrot
'/4onion, one
one
largepiece celery.
the fire with a
Put the meat
and vegetablesover
these in

buttered

has browned
the meat
piece of butter. When
the mixture
add half a tablespoon of flour and wet
mer
with hot water
broth, allowing it to simor
half

from

it is the

when

Make

starch and
cut

as

above

hour

an

to

consistency of

smooth

white

butter.

Over

and

sauce
a

hour.

an
a

It is done

thick gravy.
with milk

corn-

layer of the polenta,

placed in the baking dish sprin31

kle

some

grated cheese and

each of the white

the

and

sauce

until the dish is full. Bake

This dish

nicelybrowned.

seems

few

tablespoons

meat

peat
Re-

sauce.

until the top is

elaborate,

very

but it is very delicious and a meal in itself.

The
is also used to season
Bolognese sauce
macaroni
or

or

the brown

spaghettiin lieu of the

tomato

sauce

stock.
38
STUFFED

ROLLS

(Pagnottelleripiene)
Take

of a round
by means
opening on the top, as largeas a half dollar piece
less,extract nearly all the crumb, leaving the
or
crust

some

rolls,and

intact,but

outside with

not

too

thin.

hot milk, and

soaked, dip in beaten

eggs

Wet

inside and

when

they are
and fry them

fairly
in lard

beginning to brown, fillthem with

that has been previously
ed.
meat
chopped and cookThis chopped meat
ought to be made with
breast of chicken, chicken
giblets,liver etc.,
brown
stock and some
flour to hold it together.
or

oil. When

39

STEWED

VEAL

(Stracottodi vitella)
stock

The
used

to

season

from

this dish may

macaroni

or

32

very

well

boiled rice.

be

Care

and

legs,and

is to be boned
is not

skin

back;
scrape

knife

wings

drawn.

it is not

but
difficult,

it

When

work

The

fowl

of boning

requires practice. The

be broken.

Use

small

pointed
the skin down
the full length of the
cut
then, beginning at the neck, carefully
the meat
from the bone, keeping the
away
close to the bone.
When
the jointsof the
and legsare met, break them back and proceed

must

knife

the tendons.

remove

to

not

free the

the

The

breast-bone,and

skin is drawn

free from

the

carcass,

the

on

same

to

the

detach

it

meat

is

from

the

the

When

the bones

remove

one

tightlyover

be used

must

care

piercing the skin.

without

When

carcass.

the fowl and do the

side is free,turn
other side.

from

meat

legs and wings, turning the meat down or inside

the bones are
exposed, and using care
out, as
to

not

break

the skin

at

bones

of the wing

cannot

whole

end joint may

be

Now

the joints. The

and

be removed,
off

cut

that the fowl is boned

or

make

left as
the

end
the

it is.

following

stuffing,regulatingthe quantity on the size of

the chicken.
of lean
Chop half a pound or more,
make
veal, and grind it afterwards, so that it may
ed
soaka
paste. Add a largepiece of bread crumb
in

broth,

yolks of
taste

egg,

tablespoon of grated cheese, three

and, if desired, just a

salt,pepper

of nutmeg.

slices of ham
Stuff the boned

Finally mix

and

in

one

small

or

two

pieces.
with this filling,
sew
up

tongue,

chicken

also

34

cut

the opening, wrap

cook in water
on
the water,

it

cloth and

butter, then

in

Break
from

extracted

put to
taken from

fire. When

the wrapping

following way:
been

low

remove

first with

tightlyin

and

brown

made

sauce

all the bones

it,
the

in

that have

the chicken, the head

and

neck included, and put them on the firewith dried

in littlepieces,butter, onion, celeryand
cut
meat
Make
with salt and pepper.
the water
in which
the chicken

the

carrot, seasoned

with

sauce

been

has

boiled, which

chicken

naturallybecome

has

good

broth.

Before

sending

with which

the thread

the table,remove

to

the chicken

has been

sewed.

41
CHICKEN

TOMATOES

WITH

(Polio alia contadina)

Take
holes

the skin

in

sprigs of
five

or

and

pieces. Put
with

season

cut

tomatoes

in

make

you

little

some

will put

it on

garliccut into
the firewith chopped

salt and

inside and

pepper

browned

Moisten

all parts

on

pieces,taking care

previouslyall the seeds.

to

with

remove

broth

potatoes in oil,fat or
previously cutting them into sections.

water.

Brown

browned
the whole

some

dip in the

sauce

some

clove of

it is well

When

outside.

and

in which

rosemary

six

lard and

add

chicken

young

butter,

of the chicken and

together.
35

or

When
serve

42
CHICKEN

WITH

SHERRY

(Polioal marsala)
Cut

the chicken
with

saucepan

fine and
pepper

broth

big pieces and put

in

medium

one

sized onion

it in the

chopped

piece of butter. Season with salt and

it is well browned, add some
and, when
a

and

the
complete the cooking. Remove
fat from the sauce
excessive
by siftingthrough
sieve or
otherwise, and put the chicken back
a
the fire with a glass of Sherry or Marsala
on
it from

wine, removing

the fire

as

soon

as

the

begins to boil.

sauce

43

CHICKEN

SAUSAGES

WITH

(Polio colle salsicce)

Chop fine half
with

of ham,

and
on

add

an

and

onion

put it in

piece of butter and four

half

an

inch

wide.

place a whole

chicken, season

littlesalt and

place on

all sides and, when

water

or

freshlymade.
that the

sauce

broth

three

Let it cook
remains

these

on

or
a

is all

four
low

liquidand does

36

dients
ingre-

with pepper
it
the fire. Brown

the onion

and

pan
sauce-

five slices

or

Over

melted,

sausages

fire,seeing
not

dry up.

44
CHICKEN

SAUCE

EGG

WITH

(Polioin salsa d'uova)

Break

into

pieces a
with

in the saucepan

with

salt and

chicken

young

piece of butter.

put it
Season

it is half browned

When

pepper.

and

sprinklewith a pinch of flour to give it color,

Remove
then complete the cooking with broth.
and put it on a plate. Beat the
it from the same
with the piece of half a lemon
yolk of one
egg
of the chicken, allowing
and pour it on the sauce
it to

for

simmer

the chicken

and

Then

minutes.

some

on

pour

hot.

serve

45

SAUTfcS

BREASTS

CHICKEN

(Pettidi polioalia saute)

Cut

the breast of

give them
whole

the best

piece from

fowl

in very

thin slices,

possibleshape and

make

the littlepieces that will

main,
re-

cleaningwell the breast-bone, crushingand

mixing these. Season

with

salt and

pepper

and

dip the slices in beaten eggs, leaving them for a

few hours.
Sprinklewith bread crumbs ground
fine and
If you
a

sauce

saute

in butter. Serve

this dish

want

more

with lemon.
elaborate

in the

olive oil in

bottom, and

Put
following way:
fryingpan, justenough
cover

the oil with

37

prepare

some

to

cover

good
the

layer of dry

mushrooms.

Sprinkle over

grated cheese and

the

quantity of
crumbs.
Repeat

bread

some

operation three

same

small

four times,

or

according

the quantity, and

with olive oil,

finally
season
salt and pepper
and small pieces of butter. Put
the pan over
the fire and when
it has begun to
to

boil pour
small cup of brown
a
and a littlelemon juice. Remove
the fire and
have

been

it

pour

browned

the

the chicken

on

as

stock

described

broth

or

from

same

breast

that

above.

46

WILD

DUCK

(Anitra selvatica)
Clean

the duck, putting aside the

legs.Chop fine a thick slice

of ham
with both lean and fat together,with a
moderate
of celery,parsley,carrot
and
amount
half medium
sized onion.
Put the chopped ham
and vegetablesin a saucepan
and lay the duck on
cut

off the head

and
giblets,

the
Brown

whole,
on

and

seasoning

all sides and add

cooking.
Cabbage

or

salt and

wtih
water

lentils,cooked

to

pepper.

complete the

in water

and

ward
after-

completethe cooking in the sauce

obtained from the duck, form a good addition.
the "gamey" taste from the wild
To remove
duck, either wash it in vinegar before cooking or
scald it in boilingwater.
allowed

to

38

47

STEWED

SQUABS

(Piccioniin umido)
Garnish
and

the

squabs with

place them

slicesof ham

in

over

saucepan

leaves

sage
a

bed of small

containing both lean and fat,season

with salt,pepper
and

whole

and

olive oil. Place

on

the fire

when

they begin to be browned, add a piece

of butter and complete the cooking by pouring
in some
good broth. Before removing from the fire
lemon
them and garnish with
one
over
squeeze
or

squares

diamonds

add

salt

much

to

and

the broth both containing salt.

Note
are

"

made

or

of these dishes, it will be noticed,

Many
with

available,it

account

on

care

of the ham

not

too

Take

of toasted bread.

broth.
be

can

When

broth

meat

is not

prepared with bouillon cubes

Extracts.
It is, however,
Liebig or Armour
always preferableto use broth made with

with

fresh

meat.

48
OF

RAGOUT

SQUABS

(Manicaretto di piccione)

ably
squabs at the joints,preferthe fire
in four parts each, and put them
on
with a slice of ham, a piece of butter, and a
bunch of parsley. When
they begin to dry, add
Cut

some

two

broth

or

more

and

"

before they
39

are

completely

cut
gibletsand fresh mushrooms
slices. Continue
pouring in broth and allow

cooked
in

their

"

the whole

simmer

to

low

on

which
piece of butter over
sprinkled,or flour alone.
the

ham

effect,but it

Before

move
serving, reof greens
and

the

juiceover

sweetbread

Some

be

may

squabs.

added

be first scalded

must

another

flour has been

some

the bunch

and

lemon

some

squeeze

fire. Add

good

with
and

the skin

removed.

49
TIMBALE

SQUAB

(Timballo di piccioni)

Chop together some

carrot,

add

fire with
number

one

of

squabs and
Season

with
are

ham, onion, celery and

piece of butter and place on the

two
or
squabs, according to the
Add

guests.
some

browned,

gibletsfrom

of chicken, if

more

salt and

the

pepper,
over

pour

and
some

when
broth

the
hand.

at

the pigeons
to

plete
com-

the
sauce

cooking,taking care, however, that the

does not become
the
too
liquid. Remove

latterand

placein

half cooked

and

it some

macaroni

drained.

that has been

in
Keep the macaroni
the sauce
the fire,stirringthem.
Make
on
a
well reduced Bechamel
then cut the squabs
sauce,
at the joints,
removing the neck, the legsand the
bones of the back, when
would
bone
not
you
40

Allow

the

rub it

to

sauce

through

and

an

hour

then

sieve and

place in it the roasted

it boil until the cooking is completed

Make

game.

for half

simmer

with toasted diamonds

serve

of bread.

51
HARE

STEWED

(Stufato di lepre)
Take
it in

half of

good sized hare and, after cutting

medium
sized onion,
pieces,chop fine one

clove of

one

leaves of

stalk of celeryand several

a
garlic,

rosemary.

Put

on

the fire with

some

pieces of butter, two tablespoonfulsof olive oil

and four or five stripsof bacon or salt pork,when
the whole

has

been

browning for four

minutes, put the pieces of hare inside the

and
When

season

them

with salt,pepper

or

five

pan
sauce-

and spices.

wineglass of white
fresh mushrooms,
wine, some
or
dry mushrooms
Complete the
previously softenend in water.
and, if nesauce
cessary,
cooking with broth and tomato
add another piece of butter.
it is

browned,

put

52

RABBIT

STEWED

(Coniglioin umido)
After washing the rabbit,cut

large

the
the fire to drive away
put it on
When
that is to be drained.
quite dry, put

pieces and
water

it in rather

42

in the saucepan
a

hash

piece of butter, a littleoil,and

of the liver of the rabbit itself,

composed

small

piece of corned
and

celery,carrot
tomato

beef

and

parsley. Season

Stir often and

pepper.
some

when

and

sauce

onion,

some

with salt and

it is browned

another

add

piece of butter.

53
GREEN

SAUCE

(Salsa verde)
that have been
Chop all together some
capers
in vinegar, one
anchovy, a small slice of onion
and just a taste of garlic. Crush
the resulting
hash

with

fine.
with

Add

knife

sauce

is excellent to

cold boiled fish or

Green
are

Peppers
not

to

make

it very

sprig of parsley,chopped together

dissolve the whole

good olive oil and lemon

This

these

leaves of basil and

some

in very

or

the blade of

at

season

hard boiled

can

take the

juice.
boiled chicken
eggs.

place of

capers,

if

hand.

54
WHITE

SAUCE

(Salsabianca)
This
or

with

be served with boiled asparagus

cauliflower.
The ingredientsare
!/"lb.

sauce

of butter, a

can

tablespoonfulof flour,a tablespoon43

ful vinegar,
broth

yolk of

one

the firethe flour with half the butter

Put firston
and when
the broth

or

pepper,

in sufficientquantity.

water

or

salt and

egg,

it begins to be browned

the

the wooden

it

over

pour

littleby little,
with
stirring

water

adding the rest of the

butter and the vinegar without making the water
boil

When

much.

too

yolk of the

and

spoon

taken

stir and

egg,

off the fire add

the

serve.

55
YELLOW

SAUCE

(Salsa gialla)
This
and
for
a

is

sauce

especially
good

for boiled fish,

the quantitiesindicated below

piece of fish or
pound.
a

Put

the fire in

on

whole

are

fish weighing about

littlesaucepan

sufficient

tea-

one

of butter,and
spoonful of flour and two ounces
when the flour begins to be browned, pour over
it
little
by littleone cup of the broth of the fish,that
is to say

of the

water

boiled.

When

you

rise in the

in which

the fish has been

that the flour does

see

take

boilingwater,

the

away

not

sauce

tablespoonfuls
of olive oil and the yolk of an egg, stirringand
mixing everything well. Squeeze in the sauce
half a lemon and season
generouslywith salt and
from

the flour and

then

Let it cool and

pepper.

that is

over

pour

to

be served with

44

two

pour

over

the fish

sprig of parsley.

This

have

must

sauce

cream

and

it may

remain

must

be

not

attached

the

of

appearance

liquid,in order that

too

the fish.

to

56

SAUCE

FOR

(Salsaper
This

BROILED

gratella)

in

pesce

FISH

composed of yolks of eggs, salted

anchovies, olive oil and lemon juice. Boil the
is

sauce

eggs

in their shell for ten

hard

yolk take

Bone

largeanchovy

one

the anchovies

and

rub

for every
small.
two

and

minutes

them

or

the sieve

on

togetherwith the hard (or semi-hard) yolks,and

dissolve all with oil and lemon juice to reduce it
like

fish before
a

gravy

Cover

cream.

with

this

the broiled

sauce

sending to the table,or

serve

aside in

boat.

57

CAPER

SAUCE

(Salsa con
This

capper!)

especially
adapted for boiled fish
and the quantitiesare for a littlemore
than one
pound of fish. The ingredients are two ounces
sauce

of butter, two
one

is

of capers

ounces

soaked

in vinegar

teaspoonfulof flour,salt,pepper and vinegar.

it is left warm
Boil the fish and, when
in its

broth, prepare

the

Put

sauce.

45

on

the firethe flour

with half of the butter,mix

when

it

begins

take color, add the remaining butter.

to

Let boil

littleand

the broth of the fish:

and

and

and

some

the

sauce

as

thick

It is well
which

as

drops of vinegar, but taste

that it is pleasantto the
so
liquidcream.

to

observe

butter is used

vinegar,

season

one

take the saucepan

from the fire.
in it the capers, half whole, half chopped,

throw

dose

half cup of
generously with salt

then pour

and

pepper

Then

be

it and

are

not

here that these

it to
taste

sauces

together with a"ids, such

stomachs

for weak

and

in
as

should

partaken of sparingly.
58

GENOVESE

SAUCE

(Salsa genovese)

Chop fine a sprig of parsleyand half a clove of

soaked
in
garlic.Then mix with some
capers
vinegar,one anchovy, one hard yolk of egg, three
olives,a crumb of bread as big as an egg,
pitless
soaked in vinegar. Grind all these ingredients,
rub through a sieve and dissolve in olive oil,dosing
rightby tasting.
59

BALSAMELLA

SAUCE

(Salsabalsamella)
This

sauce

resembles

Sauce, but

the famous

it is

46

simpler in

French
its

chamel
Be-

tion.
composi-

Put

tablespoonfulof flour
and a piece of butter as big as an
Stir the
egg.
flour and the butter together while keeping them
the fire. When
the flour begins to be browned,
over
a
over
pint of milk, continuallystirring
pour
with a wooden
until you
the liquid
see
spoon
in

one

saucepan

condensed

like

If it is

thick add

back

too

the

on

This is the Balsamella.

cream.

fire with

dipped in flour.
A
good Balsamella
brown
of

stock

many

milk, if too

some

piece of butter

another

and

liquidput

well

prepared
the base and the principalsecret

are

some

dishes.

savory

60
OMELET

CURLED

(Frittatain riccioli)
Boil
a

bunch

Beat

sieve.

and

two

frying pan
When

so

well
and

pan

cooked,

repeat

two

these

one

over

strips that

fryingpan

grease

eggs,

very

it and

once

on

the

when

moving

the

thin omelet.
the frying

it from

remove

the operation

have

small

to

make

to

to

order

Put the

portion of the

as

through

it

with salt and per

pepenough spinach to make

enough oil
a

rub

season

eggs,

green.

hot put in

very

spinach and

with them

mix

the eggs appear

fire with only

Put

of

or

twice

in

three very
thin omelets.
the other and cut them
in

or

are

to

47

be

browned

in

butter

adding a little grated cheese. These strips of

omelet, resembling noodles, form a tasty and attractive
dressingfor
a

fricandeau

(veal stew)

or

similar dish.
61

VEAL

KIDNEY

di
(Frittata
Take

veal

in

cut

proportion

them

with

kidney,

it

to

the size

pepper,

with

mix

enough eggs
of the kidney, season

them

both
a

in

moderate

sprig of parsley

grated cheese. Put the sliced kidney

the eggs, mix all togetherand make
omelet
an

and
in

lengthwise and
with oil,salt and pepper,
open

in thin slices. Beat

salt and

quantity and

di vitella)

rognone

leave all its fat. Season

broil it and

OMELET

some

with

some

butter.
62

PUFF

PASTE

(Pasta sfoglia)

sfogliais not too difficult to make

and if the following instructions
are
carefully
followed, this fine and lightpaste can
easilybe
prepared. It is well to have a marble slab to roll
A
but this is not absolutely necessary.
it on
damp day is not favorable for the making
warm,
of the Pasta sfoglia,
which succeeds better when
the weather is cold and dry.
The

Pasta

48

and

six times
time

for

few

and

in two

lettingthe paste

reduce

that is, about

one

folding press

the

pin

roll in

edges gently with

the rolling

turn

the paste

so

each

as

to

different direction.

the paste has had

the desired forms and put

place for twenty

the

on

thickness
After

When

it

to

the necessary
third of an inch.
it to

shut in the air, and

to

time

the last time, fold it

At

minutes.

from

rest

greatest heat

on

ice,

be very

must

cut

in

or

it into
a

cold

before putting

thirtyminutes

to

which

oven,

six turns

hot, with the

the bottom.

at

The

puff past

au-vent

cake and

for pate shells and volfor lightpastriesof all kinds.

is used

63
PASTE

FRYING

FOR

(Pastella per fritto)

Dilute three teaspoonfuls of flour with

teaspoonfulsof oil. Add

salt,and mix well. This

two

eggs,

mixture

two

pinch of

will take

on

the aspect of a smooth

and is used to glaze
cream
fried brains, sweetbreads
and the like. All these

thingsare
Add

firstto be scalded in boilingsalt water.

pinch of salt and

taking from
etc.

are

then

the
to

into the paste,

in oil or

or

The

water.

be

cut

cream,

in

one

of pepper
when
brains,sweetbreads

irregular
pieces,thrown

described above

good lard.
50

and fried

fryingthese

In

cutlets. The

are

often united
be

liver must

cut

to

liver

given

good shape. Season

veal

thin slices

in very

and the cutlets beaten with the side of

and

or

with

big knife
salt and

dip in beaten egg and after a few hours

sprinklewith bread crumbs and fry. Serve with
pepper,

lemon.

64

STUFFING

CHICKEN

(Ripieno di polio)
The

'/J lb. lean veal or

pork or breast of turkey and chicken giblets.
Cook
this meat
together with a littlehash of
onion, parsley,celery,carrot and butter. Season
ingredients

with

salt pepper
and
broth. Take dry from

are

spices,moistening it with
the fire,take off the soft

add a few dry mushrooms

parts of the giblets,
ened in water, a littleslice of lean fat ham

soft
and

that has
chop everything fine. Into the sauce
remained
from the cooking throw enough breadcrumbs
to make
a
tablespoonfulof hard soaked
bread. Mix it with the chopped hash, add a pinch
of grated cheese and two eggs and fillthe chicken
with all this,sewing up the opening afterwards.
The

chicken

will have
when
in

one

an

stewed. If boiled you

excellent bouillon,but pay attention

can

be boiled

or

cutting the chicken to extract

piece in order to slice it.
51

the stuffing

65

MEAT

STUFFING

FOR

(Ripieno di

came

VOL-AU-VENT

pasticcini

per

di pasta sfoglia)
This stuffingcan
veal

be made

either with

stewed

chicken

The
gibletsor sweetbreads.
latter are
delicate and a
preferable,being more
of truffles greatlyimproves the stuffing.
If
taste
or

sweetbreads

are

used, put them

piece of butter and season

When
they have begun

on

the fire with

with salt and

to

pepper.

take color, complete

the

brown
stock, then cut
cooking with some
them in pieces as littleas a bean.
Add
one
or
of Balsamella
two
(see No. 54) a little
spoons
tongue,

or

one

two

slices of ham

cut

in little

pinch of grated cheese and a taste of

seeing that the ingredientsare in such
nutmeg,
cate.
quantitiesas to make the mixture tasty and deliit hardens
Leave it cool well,as in this way
a

squares,

and

be worked

can

better.

with
enclose it in pate shells made
puff-paste(see No. 57) there are two ways. One
the
is to cook the shells filledwith the stuffing,
In order

to

In the
they are cooked.
in the prepareddisk of
first case
put the stuffing
the edge with a wet
finger,cover
paste, moisten
other

to

fillthem

-with another
case,

shells

can

disk of paste and

which
be

after

is

convenient

more

prepared

cook.

one

52

In the
because

day before, the

cond
se-

the
two

disks

put together without

in the upper
disk a circular cut

largeas

half dollar coin.

swells and

leaves

an

above, which
and
is

has the form

be made

can

enough

table. The

to

space

the yolk of eggs.

If a largevol-au-vent

in

in the interior.

knife the littlecircle

of

the interior

cover,

In this way

it

sending to the
always be glazed with

is to.be filledinstead of

littlepate-shells,
a
ragout
cut

cooking

on

before

puff-pastemust

sweetbread,

as

larger,rilledwith the stuffing

them

warm

be made

pate

with the littlecover.

covered

but
stuffing,

must

The

empty

Liftingwith the point of

space

the

are

of chicken

gibletsand

largepieces,is better.
66

PORK

FRIED

LIVER

(Fegato di maiale fritto)

Cut

in to

with flour and

with its

sauce.

pork liver,sprinkle

thin slices some

fry in good lard. It must be served

ing.
Squeeze in a lemon while it is fry-

67
FRIED

BOLOGNA

CROQUETTES,

alia

(Frittocomposto
Take
boiled

a
or

STYLE

Bolognese)

piece of stewed lean veal, a littlebrain

stewed, and a slice of ham.
Chop and

grind everything fine.

Add
53

yolk of

egg

or

a.

whole

according to the quantity,and

(see No. 54). Put the hash

egg,

Balsamella
fire and

stir until the egg

is cooked.

little

on

the

finally

Add

grated cheese,a taste of nutmeg, and, if you have

truffles chopped very fine and put in
them, some
littleballs
a plate. When
quite cold make some
as
largeas a walnut and roll them in flour. Then

dip in beaten egg and bread crumb ground very

fine,repeating the operation twice, and fry.
68

ROMAN

FRY

(Frittoalia Romana)
I.
Put

the fire a hash

on

when

it is well

browned

lean veal seasoned

the

meat

wine

to

remained

some

broth and

take

it

on

the

is not

softened

egg
a

and

put

littlesherry

littleusing the

enough add

not

an

See

egg.

much.

too

thin and

too

cut

by druggists.

the white

from

the other

wafer, dip it in the

When

used

to

egg

and

place

ground fine. On
little ball of the compound

layer of bread crumbs

wafer

piece of

those

similar

one

not

butter and

pepper.

in

if this is

wafers,

some

then take
a

salt and

finallythe yolk of

in squares

Beat

and
in it

soften it

to

and

that the whole

egg,

with

the whole

sauce

them

cook

begins to brown put

complete the cooking.

Pound

Now

of onion

54

then

dip another

it touch

the bread

above,
make
part

that remains

wafer

egg,

only from

crumbs

outside, and

the

in

with

this

the

cover

the

compound attaching it to the lower wafer.

and
Sprinkleagain with bread crumbs if necessary
put the piece aside repeating the operation until
all the meat
is disposed of.
Cook
in oil or fat
and

with lemon.

serve

With

half

wafers

pound of

should

about

meat

filled

twenty

be obtained.
69
FRY

ROMAN
II.
This

be made

can

breast

some

chicken

ham,

one

of

samella
when

you

happen
left

chicken

roast

have

to

Some

over.

three slices of tongue

tablespoonfulof grated cheese, a

breast, two

of nutmeg, are the

skin of the chicken
and

when

or

cut

it

as

well

the ham, into littlecubes.

(see No. 54)

it is cooked

let it cool well

to

add

the

as

Make

taste

the

ingredientsused. Remove
and

and

gue
ton-

Bal-

in sufficient

the above

quantity and
ingredientsand

fry using the wafer

as

in the

preceding.
70
RICE

PANCAKE

di riso)
(Frittelle
Cook
of

water

thoroughly Y^ Ib. of
giving

it taste

with
55

rice in about

pint

littlepiece of sugar

and

taste

of lemon

peel. Leave

add

three yolks of eggs

well and let the whole
When

you
to

egg

the

and

littleflour.

rest

it cool and

for several

then
Mix

hours.

going to fry beat the white of an

froth, add it to the rice and throw into
are

frying pan

tablespoonfulat a time.
Serve hot sprinkledwith confectionerysugar.
one

71

KIDNEY

SAUTE*

(Rognoni saltati)
Take

one

largekidney, or

two

three small

or.

all the fat. Cut

kidneys, open them and remove
lengthwise in thin slices,salt and pour as much
them.
When
boilingwater as is needed to cover
the water
is thoroughly cooled, drain it and wipe
well the slices with a cloth, then put them in a

frying pan
them

with

often and

minutes

put in

salt and

when
a

pepper.

thoroughly cooked
take

them

away

piece of butter. Turn

they have cooked for five

small

pinch of flour and

Leave
and
add

them
when

another

on

season

with

the fire until

going to
piece of butter, a
you

are

ed.
sprig of chopped parsleyand a littlebroth if needbe kept too much
The kidney must
not
on
it hardens.
the fire,because in that case

56

and

before

taking them from

pinch of chopped parsley.

the fire put

in

74

CUTLETS

OF

CHOPPED

(Scaloppine di
Take

MEAT

battuta)

came

good lean beef, clean

some

it

well, removing

all littleskins and tendons, then firstchop

and

after

grind the

with salt,pepper
Mix

well and

the

sheet of

and cook

meat

in

as

and

thick

as

beneath

the bread

on

of

ball

flatten

board

making

silver dollar.

Cut

When

with butter.

saucepan

over

pour

these
tomato

some

serve.

If you

prefer,use

rollingpin and then

you

the form

meat
over

browned,

are

and

sauce

crumbs

rollingpin

son
grinder.Seapinch of gratedcheese.

pieces,as largeas the palm of the hand

it in square

cutlets

and

give the

then with bread

it with

fine in the

meat

hands

your

give them

can

you

of the

instead
the

shapes

like.
If you have some
well be mixed
and

left

over

with the

this

meat
raw

meat

can

and

fectly
per-

ped
chop-

ground together.
75

CUTLETS

VEAL

STEWED

(Scaloppinealia Genovese)
Cut

some

it be

lean veal
a

pound

or

58

slices and, posing

suplittle more,
without
into

meat
a

bones, chop

fourth

one

of

middle-sized

and

with oil and

put it in a saucepan
of butter.
Put over
the cutlets,one
the other, season

the

When

fire.

browned

the

butter and

put
is below

on

is

hash

layer over

which

meat

littlepiece

teaspoonful of flour and after

of parsley with half a clove of

in

put

while

with salt and

onion

garlic. Then detach the cutlets the one from the

other,mix them, let them drink in the sauce, then
hot

pour

it boil

and

water

slowly and

and

much

not

to

with abundant

serve

diamonds

littletomato

of

Make

sauce.

ing
complete the cookand with little

sauce

toast.

76

STUFFED

CUTLET

(Braciuolineripiene)
Slice from
seven
a

eight cutlets and

or

knife blade

tender
and

veal

add

small

the blade of

salt

account

the hash

in the

with

be

knife.
and

the hash

on

one

it.

The

egg

pinch of

of the ham

chop

and

and

marrow

(of
the

paste with
is then added
to
to

pepper,

but

no

the cheese

that

Spread the cutlets and

put

middle, then roll them

strong

some

bone

marrow

reduced
One

well with

slices of ham

two

or

pound)

one

them
Then

quantity of

must

already contain
them

and

meat

grated cheese

beat

flatten them.

to

grated cheese.

veal) and

tie up

piece of veal (about

thread.
59

up

and

tie

Now

small hash with

prepare

littleonion,

small tity
quanof corned beef and put it in the fire in a saucepan
time
with a small piece of butter, at the same

piece of celerya piece of

that you

the cutlets.

put

and

carrot

with

Season

salt and

they begin to brown pour some

and
sauce
complete the cooking with
the thread with
Before serving, remove

and when

pepper
tomato
water.

the cutlets have

which

been

tied.

77

OMELETTE

MEAT

(Polpettone)
Take

pound of veal, without bones, clean

all skins and tendons
and
it well taking away
then chop it togetherwith a slice of ham.
son
Seaand spices,add
moderately with salt pepper
whole

one
a

one

then with

egg

ball of the

chopped

moistened

make

sprinkle with

and

meat

hands

flour.
Make

with

hash

two

or

three slices of onion

(not more) parsley,celery,and carrot, put

the fire with a piece of butter and when
browned
throw in the Polpettone. Brown
on

all sides and

tumbler

of

then

in which

water

it simmer

half

on

When

low

very

doesn't

burn.

squeeze

the juiceof half

you
a

60

on

it is

well
half

tablespoonful

previouslydiluted.

of flour has been

make

in the saucepan

pour

it

Cover

and

fire,seeing that it

serve

lemon

with
over

the gravy
it.

If desired

hard boiled

in the center

of the

better appearance

be put shelled
that it gives it a

can

egg

meat

ball,so

when

sliced.
78

LAMB

WITH

PEAS

(Agnello ai piselli)
Take
it with

with

piece of lamb

cloves of

two

sprigs of

some

of lard and

it brown

When

Chop fine

rosemary.

this hash

it is browned

beef.

and

or

sauce,

add

the lamb

littleoil and
salt and

let

pepper.

paste dissolved in

water

complete the cooking. Take

away

the lamb, put

when

they have

put back

Put

piece

piece of butter, some

tomato

stock and

soup

side, lard

in littlestripsand

after seasoning with

tomato
or

the hind

garliccut

slice of corned

the fire with

on

from

the peas
and
in the gravy,
simmered
littleand are cooked
a

the lamb

and

serve.

79
OF

SHOULDER

LAMB

(Spallad'agnello)
Cut

the

pieces,
brown
are

and

or

them

browned
pepper.

meat

of

Chop

squares.

with

two

of lamb
small

in small

onions,

piece of butter and when

put the
Wait

shoulder

meat

until the
61

and
meat

season

with

they
salt

begins to brown

and

then

flour.
with

add

piece of butter dipped in

and complete the cooking

the whole

Mix

stock

soup

poured

another

cubea

bouillon

with

water

or

in littleby little.

80

BREAST

OF

VEAL

STEWED

(Stufatino di petto di vitella)

Break

piece of breast of veal leaving all its

hash

bones.
Make

add

carrot;

and

garlic,parsley,celery and
and

oil,pepper

firewith the
it begins to

with

Turn

meat.

it

salt and

sauce

or

on

the

often, and when

over

brown, sprinkleover

littletomato

put

pinch of flour

tomato

paste diluted

Complete the cooking with broth or

water.
Finallyadd a piece of butter and pieces of
fore
celerycut in big pieces which must have been bein water..

half cooked
Care

must

be taken

covered, in this

and

in water
to

browned

keep the

saucepan

in butter.

alwaya

in other stews.

as

81

VEAL

WITH

GRAVY

(Vitellain guazzetto)
First take about
well. Then
some

cover

one

pound of veal and

the bottom

thin slices of corned

62

tie it

of the saucepan
with
beef and a piece of

butter.

Over

this

thin slices from

be

must

which

which

be

must

the

skin

in four

cut

and

seeds

the

Over

well

be taken

not

the small quantity of

burn

to

it

over

pour

milk, that has boiled.

of

account

on

liquid.Afterward,

superfluousfat and

the

lemon

all this put the veal

browned
all sides, but
on

removed.

must

care

place half

remove

of hot

cup

the saucepan
and
Before serving rub the

Cover

complete the cooking.

through a sieve.
gravy

82
WITH

TRIPE
Boil

it in

cut

tripein

some

strips,one

it well with

wipe

with

of

quarter
cloth.

stock

good

it is

boiled,

inch wide

an

Then

when

or

when

put it in

and

pan
sauce-

this is melted, add

tomato

sauce.

son
Sea-

thoroughly and
pinch of grated cheese before taking from

with
add

and

water

butter, and

brown

some

GRAVY

salt and

pepper,

cook

the saucepan.

83
VEAL

IN

LIVER

GRAVY

(Fegato di vitellaal sugo)

in

Chop fine a scallion or an onion, make it brown

it has taken a dark
oil and butter, and when

red color, throw

When

half cooked

in the liver cut

with

season

63

in

thin slices.

salt,pepper

and

pinch of chopped parsley. Make

low

fire

that the gravy

so

in its gravy,

when

sent

squeezing

to

over

when

juice

using seal-

advise putting these in

some

cloth after

being chopped and dip them

squeezing them dry after.

water

serve

lemon

some

in similar cases,

onions,

or

remains, and

on

the table.

In this and
lions

it simmer

in cold

84
MUTTON

CUTLETS

(Braciuoledi

AND

castrato

FILET

OF

VEAL

filettodi vitella)

Put in saucepan
butter, a
a slice of ham, some
littlebunch composed of carrot, celeryand stems
of

parsley and
seasoned

mutton

them

brown

on

this

over

with
both

butter,if necessary,

cutlets of

whole

some

salt and

sides,add another
and

add

to

Make

pepper.

piece of

the cutlets

some

chicken

and fresh or
giblets,sweetbreads
dry
mushrooms
(the latter softened in water, all cut
all this begins to brown, pour
in pieces. When
some

soup

stock and

let it simmer

on

low

fire.

a
Sprinklea littleflour and finally
wineglass
pour
(or half a tumbler) of white wine leaving it boil
littlemore.
the
When
a
ready to serve
remove
ham and the greens,
rub the gray through a sieve
and remove
the superfluousfat.

64

which it will be laid,cuttingit where

it

overlaps

putting the pieces where it lacks so as to

the meat
entirely. After that roll tight

and
cover

the

togetherwith the omelet and tie it with

Then
flour over
it and
sprinklesome

meat

thread.
put it in

with

saucepan

ing
piece of butter,season-

with salt and pepper.

all sides,pour some
on
the

cooking and
be thick enough

serve

stock

soup

complete

to

will

which

it in its gravy

of the gravy.

account

on

ed
it is well brown-

When

87
RICE

(Sfornato di riso
Make
the

use

good brown

these add

To

them

rigoglie)

con

as

well

for the

as

thin slices of ham

some

13) and

(see No.

stock

for the rice

same

GIBLETS

WITH

PUDDING

giblets.
brown

and

moderately with
completing the cooking with

first in butter, seasoned

salt and

pepper,

brown

stock.

found

useful.

Brown

the rice

of

taste

will be

mushrooms

equallyin butter,then complete

Drain and put the

cooking with hot water.
brown
en
stock, adding grated cheese and two beatthe

eggs,

Take

when
a

the rice has cooled

smooth

mold, round

evenly with butter,cover

paper

the

oven.

and

place in

When

or

little.

oval,

the bottom
it the rice to

taken from
66

grease

it

with buttered
harden

the mold

pour

it in
over

the gravy
from the giblets,
slighthlythickened
with a pinch of flour and serve
with the giblets

around, seeing that there is plenty of

them.

for

gravy

88
PUDDING

GENOESE

(Budino alia genovese)

chicken
together a slice of veal, some
breast and two slicesof ham and then grind or better
pound them, with a small piece of butter,a

Chop

tablespoonfulof grated cheese

and

bread

through

soaked

and

add

three

No.

54) which

with

milk.

will make

you

butter and

smooth
put

on

sieve

(see

enough for

taste

of nutmeg,

it

grease

the bottom

of

thick

just a

mold,

crumb

Balsamella

of
tablespoonfuls

this dish, three eggs and

mixing everythingwell.

Take

Rub

evenly with

sheet of

paper,

according to the shape of the bottom and

the above
equallygreased with butter. Pour over
cut

ing
ingredientsand cook in a vessel immersed in boilwater
(double boiler)
the paper
When
taken from the mold, remove
.

and in its place put

chicken

gravy

gibletscooked

formed

in brown

hot.

67

with

chopped

stock.

Serve

89

LIVER

LOAF

(Pane di fegato)
about

Cut

slices and

four chicken

put all this in

piece and
four

or

parts and

two

and

rosemary

this is melted

put in

with salt and pepper.

season

five minutes

at

that remains

big crumb

other
an-

the

live fire,remove

of bread,

cut

in the

After

grind it together with the

In the gravy
a

with

When

liver (dry) and

put

livers in

saucepan

piece of butter.

liver in thin

of veal

pound

one

mary.
rose-

pan
sauce-

into small

ces
pie-

ground with
the liver. Then
rub everything through a sieve,
add one
whole egg and two yolks and a pinch of
gratedcheese,dilutingwith brown stock or water.
and make

Finallyput
in the

and

mold

paste that will also be

in

mold

smooth

bottom, all evenly

cook in
when

double

cool and

sheet of per
pagreased with butter

with

boiler. Remove

from

the

cold,with gelatine.

serve

90
VEAL

WITH

TUNNY

(Vitellotonnato)
Take

two

pounds

the fat and

anchovies.
and

cut

These

of

meat

without

bones,

tendons, then lard it with

be

must

washed

and

move
re-

two

boned

lengthwise,after opening them, making

68

in all

not
eight pieces. Tie the piece of meat
tightand boil it for an hour and a half in
very
it completely. Previously
to cover
enough water

put into the

with

water

clover,

ed
lard-

onion

an

leaf of laurel,celery,carrot

one

parsley. Salt the

and

of

quarter

one

generously and
don't put the veal in until it is boiling.
When
the
veal is cooked, untie, dry it and keep it for two
three days in the following sauce
in quantity
or
sufficient

to

cover

water

it.

Grind

|/4pound tunny fish preserved in olive

oil and two
anchovies, crush them well with the
blade of a knife and rub through a sieve adding
littleby little,
and
good olive oil in abundance
whole
in one
lemon, so that the sauce
squeeze
should remain
liquid. Finally mix in some
pers
casoaked

in

vinegar.
the veal cold, in thin slices,with

Serve

the

sauce.

The
a

stock of the veal

sieve and

can

be rubbed

through

used for risotto.

91
STUFFED

ITALIAN

SQUASH

(Zucchini ripieni)
For
To

descriptionof the Zucchini

make

the stuffed

zucchini

see

No.

first cut

32.

them

the interior
lengthwisein two halves and remove
pulp,leavingspace enough for the filling.
69

Take
the

to

lean veal

some

squashes)

the fire in

on

cut

(quantity in proportion
into pieces and place it

it

with

saucepan

of onion,

hash

parsley,celery,carrot, a littlecorned beef cut in

littlepieces,a littleoil,salt and pepper.
Stir it
often with
pour

in

while.

and

spoon

cup

Then

of

and

water

rub the

when

gravy

the

is brown

meat

then another

through

after

sieve and

put it aside.

Chop the cooked meat fine and grind it in the

grinder and make a hash of it and one
a
egg,
littlegrated cheese, a crumb
of bread boiled in
milk

Put
them

or

this hash
to

stock and

in soup

just a

with the gravy

in

of nutmeg.

squash and put

butter,completingthe cooking

inside each

brown

taste

set

half

aside.
92

STRING

BEANS

SQUASHES

AND

SAUTE'

(Fagiolinie zucchini saute)

Brown

in butter

stringbeans, that have

some

been

and some
previouslyhalf cooked in water
squashes cut in cubes. Put the squashes in
raw
son
only when the butter is beginning to brown. Seamoderately with salt and butter and add some
brown stock or good tomato
sauce.

70

93
STRING

BEANS

EGG

WITH

SAUCE

(Fagiuoliniin salsa d'uovo)

Take
off the

less than

pound of stringbeans, cutting

points and removing all the strings,

two

and then cook

them

salted.

them

brown

Take
with

from

butter, salt and

water

Beat

pepper.

one

teaspoonfulof flour and the juice of

small lemon, dilute with half a cup of cold

yolk with
half

moderately
the kettle,drain, and

in
partially

broth from

which

the fat has been

removed

and

liquidon the fire in a small saucepan

come,
the liquid has bestirringcontinually. When
it
through the cooking, like a cream,
pour
the stringbeans that you will keep on the fire
on
The stringbeans so
longer,with the sauce.
a little
prepared can be served with boiled beef.
put

this

94

STRING

BEANS

IN MOLD

(Sformato di fagiolini)

pound of string beans, seeing that

move
they are quite tender. Cut off the ends and rethem into boilingwater
the strings.Throw
with a pinch of salt and when they are half cooked
Take

one

take them
you

away

have brown

and put them

in cold water.

If

stock complete the cooking with

this and with butter,otherwise brown

71

piece of

onion,

olive

parsley,a piece of celeryand

some

the onion

put in the string

beans and completethe cooking with a little
water

oil. When

is browned

if necessary.

Prepare

Balsamella

sauce

small piece of butter, half

half

and

of milk.

cup

ful of grated cheese

With

and

this,a tablespoon-

four beaten

bind

eggs

they are cold,mix and put

mold, evenly greased with butter and the

the stringbeans
in

(No. 54) with a

teaspoonfulof flour

bottom

when

boiler and

Cook

with paper.
hot.

covered
serve

in

double

95
IN MOLD

CAULIFLOWER

(Sformato di cavolnore)
Take
stalk and

good sized cauliflower, remove

outside leaves, half cook it in

and

cut

and

then

put them

and
of milk.

then
Then

it into

small

brown

with

to

water

pieces. Salt them

a

littlepiece of butter

complete the cooking with

rub them

the

cup

pare
through a sieve. Preflower
a Balsamella
(No. 54) and add it to the cauliwith 3 beaten eggs and a tablespoonful
of
gratedcheese.
Cook in a greased mold and serve
hot.

72

pleasant odor. Then cut them in rather large

slices and dip them in flour before putting in the
fryingpan. Olive oil is best for fryingmushrooms
and the seasoning is composed exclusivelyof salt
and pepper
to be applied when
they are frying.
ing
They can also be dipped in beaten eggs after besprinkledwith flour,but this is superfluous.
98
STEWED

MUSHROOMS

(Funghi in umido)
For

the mushrooms

stew

middle-size.
Put

the oil begins

When

salt and
in

and

pepper

cut

some

as

mint

leaves.

to

when

tomato

some

be below

rooms
splutter,
put the mushwith
dipping in flour,season

in without

pour

on

saucepan

to

for the ceding.

prethe firewith olive oil,

cloves of oil and

two

or

one

and

Clean, wash
a

ought

sauce.

they are half cooked

Be sparing however,

with the seasoning, in order that the mushrooms

do

absorb it

not

their own

much

too

and

so

lose

of

some

delicate flavor.
99
MUSHROOMS

DRIED

(Funghi secchi)
Mushrooms

are

dishes and
some

always at

an

excellent condiment

for this
hand.

reason

of various

it is well to

have

Since, however, it is
74

not

to have them fresh,the following

always possible
dried mushrooms
will be found
recipe to prepare

useful.
First of all wait

Choose
but
them

mushrooms

young

not

without

soft.

too

well

until there is

order

in

washing

sized

the

stem,

the

remove

them

day
big,

sunny

middle

Scrape
to

or

earth

clean

and,

big pieces. This

because when dried they diminish considerablyin
size. Keep these pieces exposed in the sun
for
three days, then thread them on a string
two
or
(practisinga hole in them) and keep in a well
ventilated room
until they become
in the sun
or
well closed in
quite dry. Then put them away
a
bag, but don't fail to look at them from
paper
time

to

them

some

To
them
not

time

use

in

to

cut

see

to

more

them
as

in

if it is necessary
to expose
and ventilation.
sun

soften in

little as

warm

possible,so

lose their delicate flavor.

dry the mushrooms

is

June

or

The

but

keep
that they do

water,

best time

to

July.

100
FRIED

EGG-PLANTS

(Melanzane fritte)
they are also called,mad-apples
excellent vegetable which
be
are
an
may
used as dressingor as a dish by itself. Small or
middle-sized egg-plantsare
to be preferred,as
Egg-plant or,

as

75

the

big

have

ones

sometimes

slightlybitter

taste.

Remove

them
to

in

the skin,cut

platefor

into

few hours.

the juice that

remove

cubes, salt and leave

wipe them

Then

they have

thrown

out,

dip in flour and fry in oil.

101

STEWED

EGG-PLANTS

(Melanzane in umido)
Remove

the skin,cut them

the fire with

into cubes and

piece of butter. When

all absorbed, complete the cooking with
on

sauce

place
this is

tomato

(No. 12).
102
EGG-PLANTS

IN THE

OVEN

(Melanzane al forno)
Skin five

them in round
cut
egg-plants,
slices and salt them so that they throw out the
that they contain.
After a few hours dip
water
in flour and fryingoil.
Take a fireproof
baking tin and place
vase
or
the slices in layers,with grated cheese between
with tomato
each layer, abundantly seasoned
(No. 12).
sauce
Beat one egg with a pinch of salt,
a tablespoonful of tomato
a
teaspoonfulof grated
sauce,
or

six

76

cheese and

of crumbs

two

layer with this

upper

Put

sauce.

the egg

when

and

oven

of bread, and
the

the

cover

in the

vase

hot.

coagulated,serve

is

103

DRESSING

OF

(Sedano
The
to

For

dishes.

stalk

attached

seasoning

the first two

four inches
The

as

contorno)

per

three ways

followingare

be served

long, and

to

the rib of the

cut

meat

the pieces about

inches

two

ry
cele-

prepare

seasoning for

or

make

be skinned,

must

to

CELERY

for the third.

crosswise

celery. Boil

left

and

it in water

five minutes
and remoderately salted not over
move
dry.
1 Put the celeryto brown
in butter,then complete
the cooking with brown
stock (No. 13)
and sprinklewith grated cheese when
serving.
.

2. Put
hash

made

chopped
When
hot

in

with

fine.

Add

the onion

and
two

middle

cloves and

is browned

add

bouillon cubes

sized onion,
make
soup

it boil.

stock

or

complete the
cooking. Then rub everything through a sieve
in a platewith the celery,seaand put the gravy
soning
with pepper
only, as the salt is already in
water

the ham
3.

with

ham

piece of butter and

saucepan

and

and

with the gravy.

the celeryin flour and
serve

Dip
frying (No. 58) and fry
77

in

fat

in the paste for

or

oil.

Or

else

dip

crumbs

bread

then

flour and

in

in beaten

in

wrap

egg,

fry.

and

104
ARTICHOKES

SAUCED

WITH

(Carciofiin salsa)

skin the stalk.

the points and

into

put

leaves of the artichokes,cut

the hard

Remove

them

choke
Divide each arti-

four parts or six if they are big, and

the fire with butter in proportion,
on

seasoning with salt and

the

Shake

pepper.

pan
sauce-

they have absorbed a

broth
good part of the melted butter,pour in some
them dry, and
to complete the cooking. Remove
that remains
in the gravy
put a pinch of chopped
parsley,one or two teaspoonfulsof cheese grated
salt and pepper
if needed,
fine,lemon juice,more
for a
it simmer
and, mixing the whole, make
them

to turn

while.
add

one

Then

and when

quantity and put back

make

to

the

sauce

the

this second

as
especially

egg,

the fire and

according to the

the firewith

on

loose.

sauce

from

sauce

yolks of

two

or

the

remove

time

Put
to

more

broth

the artichokes in

heat them

side-dish for boiled

and

serve

meat.

105
ARTICHOKES

STUFFED

(Carciofiripieni)
Cut the stalk

leaves and

at

the base, remove

wash

the small

the artichokes.
78

Then

side
outcut

the top and

the bottom

cut

can

the

the internal leaves

open

with

that you

so

small knife and

remove

Keep aside the small

them
with the stuffing.

hairy part if it is there.

leaves

interior

to

put

This, if to be used, for example, for six artichokes,

composed of the above small leaves, J/g

fourth of a
Ib. of ham
lean than fat,one
more
be

must

leaves of
garlic,
some
celery or parsley,a pinch of dry mushrooms,
softened in water, a crumb of bread and a pinch of
small onion, just a

but

pepper,

no

of

taste

salt.

First

gether
chop the ham, then grind everything toand with the hash fillthe artichokes,and

standing on their stalks in a

Some
with some
oil,salt and pepper.
saucepan
prefer to give the artichokes a half cooking in
before stuffing
water
it,but it is hardly advisable,
put

them

because

to

cook

in this way

they lose part of their special

flavor.
106
ARTICHOKES

STUFFED

WITH

MEAT

(Carciofiripienidi came)
the following stuff-

For six artichokes,make

,

]/4Ib. lean veal.

Two
The

One

slices of ham,

more

fat than lean.

interior part of the artichokes.

fourth of onion
79

(small).

leaves of

Some

parsley.

One

pinch of softened dried mushrooms.

One

small crumb

One

pinch of grated cheese.

the artichokes

When

oil alone, pour

cloth
moistened

have

been

littlewater

and

kept in placeby

with

browned

with

cover

the

The

cover.

the artichokes cooks

that surrounds

steam

sifted.

rolled and

of bread

them

better.
"

107
PEAS

WITH

ONION

SAUCE

alia francese)
(Piselli
The

following recipe is good for

Take

peas.

put

stems

some

them.

Then

butter and
cup

two

of soup

onions

are

cut

them

in

half,

parsley in the middle and

of

put them
when

onions,

young

of fresh

one

into the fire with

they

are

stock. Make
softened

rub

browned,

pieceof
over

pour

it boil and

them

when

through

tie

the
sieve

that you
will then put
the fire with the peas and two
whole hearts
on
and let it
of lettuce. Season with salt and pepper

together with the

simmer.

gravy

the peas are half cooked add another

tablepiece of butter dipped in a scant
When

broth, if nespoonful of flour and pour in some

cessary.
Before sending to the table put in two
yolks of eggs dissolved in a littlebroth.
80

109

PEAS

WITH

CORNED
la

(Pisellicon
Put

the fire a

on

BEEF

secca)

came

hash

of corned

beef, garlic,

with a littlesalt and pepper

parsleyand oil,season
the garlicis browned, put the peas in.
and when
When
they have absorbed the sauce,
complete
the cooking with
broth or, failing that, with
water.

110
STUFFED

TOMATOES

(Pomodori

ripieni)

Select ripe middle-sized

equal parts and

in two

out

scoop

with salt and pepper

the following hash,

Season
with

the stuffing come

make
half

and
in
over

them

cut

tomatoes,

the inside seeds.

fillthe

such

the

tomatoes

way

as

to

edge of the

tomato:

Make

hash with

the fire with

put it on

onion,
a

parsleyand celery,

piece of butter and when

browned, put in a small handful of dried

mushrooms
and
previously softened in water
it is

chopped
crumbs

soaked

and
with

very

water

fine: add
in

let the

tablespoonfulof bread

milk, season

compound

if necessary.

fire add, when

When

with salt and

simmer,
you

it is stilllukewarm,
82

per
pep-

moistening

take from

the

grated cheese

and

beaten

yolk (or two) of egg,

that the compound
does not become
a

When
the

the
with

oven

and

beef

filled,take them

are

littlebutter and
them

serve

liquid.

too

as

oil mixed

side-dish for

in
gether
to-

roast

steak.

or

The
with

tomatoes

but seeing

stuffed
hash

tomatoes

of

garlicand

bread crumbs, salt and

oil when

they are

be

can

made

simpler

parsley mixed
and seasoned

pepper

with
with

in the saucepan.

Ill

CAULIFLOWER

WITH

BALSAMELLA

(Cavolnore colla balsamella)

Remove

from

good sized cauliflower

the

external leaves and

cut

crosswise

water.

Then

the green
ribs,make a deep
in the stalk and cook it in salted

cut

butter, salt and

it in sections

Put

brown

and

with

baking tin,
throw over
small pinch of grated cheese, cover
a
with the balsamella
the
(No. 54) and brown
pepper.

it in

surface.
this cauliflower

Serve
a

as

entremets

an

side-dish with boiled chicken

or

or

as

stew.

112
STUFFED

CABBAGE

(Cavolo ripieno)
Take

leaves, cut

big cabbage, remove

the

stem

off
83

even

the hard
with

outside

the leaves

and give it half

down

cooking in salt water.

drain, then

to

open

Put it upside

the leaves

one

by

until the heart is

one

stuffing.Bring
tie with

up

exposed and on this put the

all the leaves,close them and

thread crosswise.

The

be made
with milk veal
stuffing can
stewed
chicken
alone, or with sweetbread
or
delicate,
liver,all chopped fine. To make it more
add some
balsamella (No 54) a pinch of grated
cheese, one
yolk of egg and a taste of nutmeg.
Complete the cooking of the cabbage in the sauce
of this stew, adding a littlebutter,on
low
a
fire

kept low.
of filling
the whole cabbage, the larger
be filled one
by one, rollingand tying

in the

or

Instead
leaves may

oven

them.
113
SIDE-DISH

OF

SPINACH

(Spinaciper contorno)
cooking the spinach in boilingwater and
chopping them fine, the spinach can be cooked
After

in different ways:

1 With
.

brown

butter, salt and

stock, if you

fuls of broth, or
2. With

onion

have

pepper,

it,or

adding a little
few tablespoon-

milk.

(onion chopped

sauce

very

fine) and butter.

3. With

butter salt and

pepper,

small pinch of grated cheese.

84

adding

very

4. With

butter, a drop of olive oil and tomato

(No. 12) or tomato
paste diluted with

sauce

stock

soup

water.

or

114

ASPARAGUS

(Sparagi)
Asparagus

be

prepared in
but the simplestand best

ways,

them
oil and

can

and

serving them

vinegar

are

other

ways

Put

them

whole

part

as,

and

salt,pepper

the melted

over

as

bottom

on

If you
firstand

there

following:

littlewith

pinch of grated cheese,

it is browned.

the green

in

them.

Be

layersof

oven

and

Serve

hot.

have

some

one

the

near

pour

Or

place

part and

fireproofplate: Dust
with grated cheese and dispose over

the

melted.

butter when

follows

have

the

juice. However

brown

pieces of butter. Make

and, seasoning in the
Cross

olive

with

for instance, the

points of the asparagus

with salt,pepper,
season

you

seasoned

lemon

else divide the white from

them

ing
is that of boil-

the green
and, after seasoning them with
to

butter

in

or

different

many

the
the

other;

grated cheese and little

another layerof asparagus
same

moderate
asparagus

way,

continue

in the

like

until

seasoning.

trestle,
put

keep until the seasoning,

brown

stock, parboilthem

complete the cooking with brown

85

is

stock,

adding a littlebust and dusting moderately with

grated cheese.
115
FISH

BREAD

WITH

(Pesce col

This, which

pane

CRUMBS

grattato)

also be served

can

made

especiallywhen
good qualityleft over.

you

as

have

side-dish,is

boiled

fish of

carefullyall
the bones, then put it in the balsamella (No. 54)
and season
with enough salt,grated cheese and
mushrooms
rooms
some
chopped fine. If dried mushCut

it into

soften

littlepieces, remove

in water

take

proof
fire-

evenly with butter and dust

ground fine; pour into it the

plate,grease
with bread

first. Then

it

crumbs

with a thin
prepared as above and cover
layer of bread crumbs. Finallyput over
a
piece
and serve
hot.
of butter,brown in the oven
fish

116
STEWED

FISH

(Pesce
The

the umber

can

taglioin umido)
be used for this dish

are

the

grayling,the sword fish and

piece of fish of large size and good savor.
be sufficient for four or five perpound may
sons.

tunny,
any

fish that

CUTLETS

or

86

the scales,clean and

Remove
flour and
throw

Make

saucepan.
a

and

middle

and

sized onion,

the

clean

fine, with

very

piece of white celery

good pinch of parsley.Put this to brown

salt,pepper
browned
tomato

sufficient oil and

and

whole

one

season

clove.

tomato
put abundant
paste diluted in broth

for

simmer

When

with
it is

(No 12)

sauce

Let

water.

or

or

it

while, then placethe fish to complete

frequently.The fish
that ought
be served with this thick gravy

the cooking, turning it

must
to

hash, chopped

the fire with

on

in

the oil that remains

away

half

brown

to

put

dry well, dip in

littleoil.Remove
dry,

over

be abundant.

117
WHITING

SAUCE

ANCHOVY

WITH

(Merluzzo alia Palermitana)

Take

and

more,

the head.
with

trim

Splitit to

littlesalt and

bread

crumbs

spoonfuls of oil

one

the bone, and

remove

pepper.

Turn

it on

with salt and

with oil,season

grease

with

little
a
pound
or
all the fins,leaving the tail and

whiting,

one

season

the back,

pepper,

dust

lay it with two tablefireproofplate or baking

then

on

tin.

good sized anchovies, bone

the fire
and clean them, chop them and put on
with two
tablespoonfulsof oil,but do not allow
Take

three

or

four

87

""r"1" "'

it to boil. With

fish and
also

this sauce

the back of the

cover

dust it all with bread crumbs,

putting

allowinga

leaves of rosemary.
Bake in the oven,
littlecrust to form over, but see that

it doesn't

dry

some

to this purpose
pouring over
oil.Before removing from the tin squeeze

more

half

lemon

This dish
toast

up,

over.

be served surrounded

can

by little

with caviar,or anchovies and butter.

118
STEWED

EEL

(Anguillein urnido)
For thisdish it is preferable
to have good sized
eels that must
be skinned,but cut in small
not

pieces.

Chop

and

onion

some

parsley,
put

it on

the

firewith oil,
and pepper, and when the onion
salt,
is browned, add the pieces of eel. Wait until it
has absorbed the

of the onion

taste

sauce

and then

sauce
completethe cooking with tomato
12).
See that there is plentyof gravy and serve

little
squares

or

diamonds

of

(No.
with

toast.

119
FFI.S

WITH

PEAS

(Anguillecoi piselli)
Cook
and when

the eels as

above with the onion

it is cooked

remove

88

sauce

it dry to cook the

tomato

(No. 12)

sauce

Shake

in water.

put them

open,

and

often and

them

slices of

over

paste diluted

tomato

or

arranged on

they

when

are

forehan
prepared be-

toast

plate.

122

CODFISH

(Baccala)
I

Freshen

and

soak

changing the water

keeping it for some
cold

water.

Then

the codfish

two

in

it into

cut

cold water,

three times,

or

time

in

or,

better,

under

vase

pieces as

running
largeas the

palm of the hand and dip them in flour until

Then
they are well covered.
put a kettle or
the fire with plenty of oil and
on
a
saucepan
three cloves of garlic,
whole but a little
two
or
crushed.
When
the garlic begins to brown
put

in

the codfish

and

necessary,

but
pour

over

or

at

littlepepper
some

it

on

both

that it doesn't burn.

stirringit often, so
not

brown

tomato

paste diluted in water,

least

only

will
sauce

not

90

Salt is

littleafter

be amiss.

(No. 1 2)

or

let it boil a littlemore

serve.

sides,

ing,
tast-

Finally
tomato

and

123

II
The

following is another way

codfish, slightlydifferent from
Cut

the codfish
with

saucepan

hash

of

pepper,

Cook

on

oil and

preceding.

it

it is in

as

Spread

parsley and

the

over

it

with

season

a
a

littlepieces of butter.

cause,
good fire and turn it with care, bebeing sprinkledwith flour, it breaks

not

easily.When
and

olive oil.

garlicand

prepare

the

above, then put

as

some

pinch of

to

it is

cooked,

squeeze

lemon

over

serve.

124
FRIED

CODFISH

(Baccala fritto)
Place
as

the codfish

explained in No.
and

water

as

salt,and

the fire

on

after

"

107
as

in

"

soon

washing

kettle with

as

the

water

cold

boils,

the codfish.

remove

move
boilingcut it in littlepieces and reflour and dip
all the bones. Sprinkle some
flour and
in a frying paste composed of water,
hot.
littleoil. Fry in oil and serve
a

After

125
CODFISH

CROQUETTES

(Cotolettedi baccala)
Boil
is

one

explained above and, if the quantity

pound or a littlemore
put together two
as

91

anchovies

and

parsley, chopping

some

thing
every-

together very fine. Add some

a
pepper,
tablespoonful of grated cheese, three or four
of pap, composed of bread crumbs
tablespoonfuls
in large pieces,water
and butter,and two
eggs.
Give the compound the form of several flat cutthem in beaten egg and in ground bread
lets,dip
crumbs. Fry in oil and serve
with lemon, or tomato
sauce.

126

FRIED

DOG-FISH

(Palombo fritto)
Cut

the dogfish in slices,

not

very

thick,and

plate with beaten

eggs

somewhat

place it

in

salted. Leave

for

hours

some

before frying,dip the slicesin

until half
mixture

an

hour

of bread

crumbs, grated cheese, garlicand parsley chopped

A clove of garlicis
fine, salt and pepper.
sufficient for
serve

one

pound

of fish. Fry in oil and

with lemon.
127

DOG-FISH

STEWED

(Palombo in urnido)
Cut

make
onion.

dog-fishin rather big pieces and then

little
hash of garlic,parsley and very

the
a

Put

this hash

on

92

the

fire with

oil and

browned, put the pieces

sufficiently
salt and
with
dog-fish and season
pepper.

when
of

it is

When
sauce

the fish is cooked

pour

(No. 12), let this

simmer

over

tomato

some

for

while, then

serve.

128
ROAST-BEEF

(Arrosto)

Although roast-beef
prepared

it is

hence

and
To

pounds ought
to

Salt it

be cooked

the

only when
because

less than

not

on

stock which

with

will form

meat

it is half cooked

the

beef

two

fire.

strong

good olive oil and

with

of soup

the juice from

place here.

good roast-beef

be covered

with cup

by the Italians,

peculiar way

to

Italian dish, still

an

this recipe finds its

obtain

ought

in

is not

It

ally
fin-

the oil and

rich gravy,

and

do it

derately,
mo-

already tasty by

is

itself.
Put

it

on

is served

the fire half

and

the meal

if the piece is

an

hour

before

the soup
will be sufficient

begins. This
not

very

big. To

ascertain

cooking prick it in the bigger part with a thin

larding-pin,but not often, in order not to allow

the

too

much

juice to

escape.

be of the color of the blood

If baked
a

it is to

The
nor

be seasoned

piece of butter, surrounded

juice must
too

with

by

neither

dark.

salt,oil and
raw

potatoes

peeled.Pour

in the kettle

If you
do
into slices and warm
water.

or

tomato

cup

like cold

not

of broth

beef,

roast

or

of
it

cut

with butter and brown

stock

sauce.

129
ROAST

VEAL

(Arrosto di vitella)
Choose

for that milk

all the year round,

during the spring or

veal that is

although

it is

to

be found

always better

summer.

The

piece or pieces of veal can be cooked in a

slightlylarded with garlicand rosemary,
saucepan,
with oil,butter and a hash of corned beef,
and tomato
In the gravy
salt,pepper
fresh
sauce.
peas

can

be cooked.

130

POT

ROAST

(Arrosto morto)
This

can

be done

all kinds of meats,

with

the best is milk veal. Take

loins,roll it and

tie with

half cooked
cup
no

good piece of the

string and

fire with good olive oil and

quantity. Brown

but

well from

put on the
butter,both in small
all sides, salt when

complete the cooking with a half

If
of broth, seeing that littlejuice remains.
broth is at hand, use tomato
tomato
or
sauce,
and

94

Some
paste diluted with water.
fine can
also be added.

corned

beef

ped
chop-

131
POT

ROAST

GARLIC

WITH

AND

ROSEMARY

(Arrosto

colFodore

morto

del
dell'aglio
e

ramerino)
Cook

the

garlic and

meat

one

When

through

gravy

the
cooked
The
baked

two

or

the saucepan.

above, but add

as

clove

bunches

of rosemary
serving the roast rub

of
in

the

without

sieve

round
pressing and survegetables
or
potatoes

with

meat

apart.

leg of lamb
in the

comes

well in this way,

very

oven.

132
BIRDS

(Arrosto di uccelli)
The

best way
birds, and that nearly
to cook
used by the Italians,is roasted at the spit.

always
They must
between

be
each

spittedwith
bird. Also

small slice of bread

each

wrap

thin slices of bacon, in such

way

spittedwith this covering. Mind

almost
once

"

as
over

thin

as

when

paper.

Pass

they begin
95

bird in very
that it can
be

to

slice the bacon

some

to

oil

brown,

"

only
using

brush

Put

or

feather,and salt only once,

the fire when

on

they
flavor. The

be served, otherwise

to

near

rately.
mode-

of their
dry and lose much
cooking is rapidlydone if on a good
get

may

fire.

133
ROAST

OF

LAMB

(Arrosto d'agnello)
Take

it with salt,
leg of lamb and season
oil and a drop of vinegar. Pierce it here
pepper,
and there with the point of a knife and leave it
like this for several hours. Also lard it with bay
leaf or rosemary
when
to be removed
serving.
The leg of lamb can
be baked or, as the Italians
do, cooked at the spit.
a

124
LEG

OF

(Cosciottodi
Before

cooking

after the animal

see

MUTTON
castrato

arrosto)

that several days elapse

has been

butchered.

This,

ally,
natur-

according to the temperature. Beat it well

the
with a wooden
mallet,then skin and remove
Then tie
middle bone, without spoiling
the meat.
it and give it a good fire at the beginning,covering
the fire when

half cooked. Let it cook

96

in its

136

POT

ROAST

(Arrosto
Take

LARDED

lardellato)

morto

piece short and

thick of beef

quite tender and weighing about

a

littlemore.

Lard

it with

littlepieces. Tie with

with

stewpan

slicesof
when

the

the

with

one

of

cup

in

it in

fourth

inch thick and

salt and

begins to brown

meat

put

as

of

or

and

pepper

and

water

many

turning

"

or

cut

pieces, three

in two

an

Season

over

pour

"

celeryhalf

carrot.

bacon

or

cut

pounds

two

string and
piece of butter, one

middle-sized onion
four ribs of

ham

veal,

or

it often

complete

fire,leaving it to absorb
See, however, that it
great part of the gravy.
doesn't dry up and
black. When
become
you

cooking

send

to

low

the table strain

and

pour

with

whole

on

it

on

the

juice that has

the meat,
cut

potatoes

in

be

that may

pieces

if small, previouslybrowned

or

mained
rerounded
sur-

kept

in butter

or

oil.
137
PIGEON

SURPRISE

(Piccione a sorpresa)
The

pigeon (or chicken)

stuffed with
cutlet must

must

be

cutlet of milk veal. Of

opened
course

and
this

be of proportionate size. Beat it well

98

to

render it thinner and

salt,pepper,
butter, roll

with

tender, season

more

pinch of spicesand littlepieces of

it and

the opening. The

put inside the pigeon sewing

liver and gibletsof the pigeon

stock or in butter,
apart in brown
chopped. With the resultinggravy

be cooked

can

after

being

the cutlet

In this way
of meat
qualities

be smeared.

can

flavor of the

two

rent
the diffeis better

amalgamated.
138

BEEF

STUFFED
Braciuola
The
half
half

an
a

di

CUTLET

ripiena)

manzo

ingredientsfor this dish are a slice of beef

inch thick, weighing about one
pound,
pound or less of lean milk veal, two small

slices of ham

and

two

three

or

of tongue,

one

tablespoofulof grated cheese, a piece of

of
butter,two chicken livers,one
egg, a crumb
bread as largeas a closed fist.
Make
with a small onion, a littlecelery,
a hash
the fire with the
and parsley, put it on
carrot
scant

butter and when

the veal

livers,season

it is browned,

cut

in small

with

chicken

the

pan
sauce-

pieces and the chicken

little salt and

complete the cooking with

the veal and

placein

when

pepper

and

littlebroth. Remove

cooked,

and

chop

that remains
fine. In the gravy
make
a pap
rather hard with the crumb
of bread, moistening

them

99

with

if necessary.
the pap, the eggs,

Now

broth

meat,

cut

tongue

mix

the

chopped

the cheese, the ham

in littlepieces.When

composed thus,dip the cutlet in

the
water,

and

stuffingis
in order to

stretch it better,beat it with the back of the knife

flatten with its blades. Put the

and

stuffinginside

with a stringcrosswise.
and roll up and tie tightly
Roast or bake with oil and salt.

139
CHICKEN

STUFFED

(Polioripieno)
For

middle-sized
two

fowl

use

gredien
the following in-

the liver and

sausages,

gibletsof

eight or ten chestnuts well roasted,

pieces of mushrooms, a taste of nutmeg,
If,instead of a fowl, it is a turkey,
egg.

the fowl,
some
one

double

the dose.

and the giblets

Begin by giving the sausages
half a cooking,moistening them with a littlebroth
if necessary.
on

Season

with

of the sausages
and
them
Remove

account

them.

put a crumb
littlebroth

littlesalt and
that
in the

pepper

already contain
that

gravy

of bread, in order

to

mains
re-

obtain

tablespoonfuls of thick
Skin the sausages,
chop the chicken giblets
pap.
and the giblets and grind everything together
with the chestnuts,the egg and the pap;
this is
the stuffingwith which the fowl is to be filled,
with

two

100

be baked

to

hot, and

afterward.
also be

it can

It is

tasty cold than

more

better.

cut

140

CHICKEN

WITH

SAUCE

PIQUANTE

(Polioal diavolo)
This ought

to

and served with

be cooked

with

Cayenne

pepper

highly seasoned sauce, but not

everybody likes that and a simpler way to cook
the chicken "al diavolo" is the following:
Take

chicken,

young

the neck

remove

and

legs,open it all in front and flatten it open

much
as
as
possible.Wash and wipe dry with a
and when
it begins
towel, then put it on the grill
the

to

brown

with

it. Grease

turn

oil,using

it with

brush, and

melted

season

butter

or

with salt and

for
later may
be Cayenne pepper
like it.Keep turning and greasing until

The

pepper.

those who

it is all cooked.

To
with

prepare

chicken

the

broiled in this way,

spoonfulsof butter
begins to brown add
and

piquante that

sauce

in

Draw

to

saucepan

put four tableand

when

it

of flour
tablespoonfuls

two

stir until it is well

it burn.

like

many

browned, but do

cooler

placeon

the

not

range

let
and

slowly add two cupfulsof brown stock, stirring

constantly,add salt and a dash of Cayenne and
let simmer
boil four

for

ten

minutes.

In another

of vinegar
tablespoonfuls
101

saucepan
one

table-

spoonful of chopped onion, one teaspoonful of

rapidlyfor five minutes; then add it to the
sugar
and at the same
time add one
tablespoonful
sauce
of chopped capers
two
ped
tablespoonfulsof chopgar.
pickleand one teaspoofulof tarragon vineStir well and
heat the

pickles.If the

dilute it with
This

minutes

two

becomes

sauce

to

thick

too

littlewater.

boiled meats,

besides

for the chicken

condiment

for

is excellent for baked

sauce

and

roasts

let cook

fish and

being

all

fitting

"al diavolo".

141
CHICKEN

HAM

WITH

(Polio in porchetta)
Fill a chicken
half
of

an

inch wide. Add

grains of

cook

preferablybake
and

Season

pepper.

and

three cloves

in

in the

about

(or sections)

of fennel and

littlebunches

two
garlic,

pepper

thin stripsof ham,

with

outside with
with

saucepan

few

salt and

butter, or

wise
Sausages cut length-

oven.

previouslyskinned

can

be substituted

for the ham.

142
SAUTE'

CHICKEN

(Poliosaltato)
Take
trim

young

chicken, remove

the wings. Cut

away

102

the

the neck

and

legs.Cut the chic-

ken

into six

Beat

an

egg

place in
them
and

in

of the bones.
some
pieces.Remove
and
with a teaspoonful of water

it the

pieces of chicken after dipping

flour and seasoning generously with salt
Leave

pepper.

the pieces in the

until it

egg

for

cooking. Then take the pieces one by

and
place a
sprinklewith bread crumbs
one,
with a good piece of butter on the fire.
saucepan
When
the butter begins to brown
put in the
pieces of chicken from the side of the skin, then

is time

them

turn

them

lemon.

with

to

good fire for about

on

browned

when

The

good also when

chicken

the other side. Let

ten

minutes.

preparedin

Serve

this way

is

cold.

143
AFRICAN

HEN

(Gallina di Faraone)
should
This fowl, that resembles the partridge,
not

be
The
at

too

fresh,like all game.

ed
best way
to cook the African hen is roastthe spit.Put in the inside a ball of butter

it in a piece of paper
dipped in salt and wrap
greased with butter and sprinkledwith salt.This
when
the fowl is nearly
be removed
must
paper

cooked, and then the cooking is completed greasing

with

more

butter and

103

adding

more

salt.

144
TAME

DUCK

ROASTED

(Anatra domestic*

arrosto)

Salt it inside and bandage all the breast with

slices of bacon, large and
and

thin. Grease

oil

with

salt

moderately when the cooking is almost

complete. If you have a wild duck grease with
is drier.
butter,as the meat
145
TURKEY

(Tacchino)
The

turkey has been imported to Europe from

dish
America, but it is nevertheless a well known
in Italian families,
although not enjoying the popularity
that it has
When

roasted it is

with littlepieces of
and seasoned

bacon,
sauce

a
or

this side of the

on

generallylarded moderately
mary
garlicand bay-leafor rose-

with

hash of corned beef

littlebutter, salt and

tomato

ocean.

paste

tomato

pepper,

diluted in

breast,flattened until it is about

water.

half

or

an

The
inch

thick and seasoned

generouslysome

cooking with oil,salt and

broiled

on

the

grill.

104

pepper,

hours before
is excellent

148
BROILED

PIGEON

(Picciouein gratella)
Take

lengthwise and

parts
hands.

Then

when

it to

put

five minutes,

it

but fat pigeon, divide it in

young,

flatten' it well
brown

'with the

in oil for four

just to harden

stillhot with salt and

two

the

or

Season

meat.

then arrange

pepper,

follows.

as

Melt

in the

butter and

fire,without

boilingit,a piece of

the

liquidbutter with one beaten

Dip the pigeon in the butter and egg and
egg.
keep it until it absorbs them. Then sprinklewith
bread crumbs ground fine. Cook on a grill
a
on
a

low

mix

fire and

with

serve

sauce

or

side dish.

149

STEAK

SAUCEPAN

IN THE

(Bistecca nel tegame)

If you
be

too

have

steak that does

tender, put it in

not

with

saucepan

to

appear
a

little

good olive oil,with a

piece of butter and some
of garlicand bay-leaf or rosemary.
Add,
taste
if necessary,
and
sauce
gravy
more

that

serve
can

littlebroth
with

be

potatoes

made

broth, butter and

or

more

tomato

106

water

or

cooked
abundant
sauce.

tomato

in the
with

150

VEAL

KIDNEY

WITH

ANCHOVY

(Rognone alle acciughe)

Take

veal

the fat, cut it

kidney, remove
and cover
with boilingwater.
When
the
open
has cooled, remove
the kidney, wipe with
water
a cloth,and
pass through it clean sticks to make
a

it stay open.

and

pepper

Season

with melted

leave it

butter, salt and

prepared for

so

hour

an

or

two.

Then

take another

piece of butter and two or

three anchovies. Clean the latter,
chop and mix
with the butter with the blade of a knife, making
a

ball. Cook

but
kidney on the grill,
order to keep it tender, put it on

much, in
and

the

grease

when

hot with

not

too

plate

the ball of butter and

anchovies.
151

VEAL

KIDNEY

SLICED

(Rognone di vitello affettato)

Cut

in

thin slices

one

or

two

veal kidneys,

removing the granulous part that is

in the middle, and put the slices in
with

saucepan

ped
piece of butter, a bunch of parsleychopAdd
fine togetherwith a clove of garlic.
very
a

cup

of hot broth

about

salt moderately and let it cook

boiling,until the

without
one

sauce

is reduced

to

to

third.

of vinegar adds
tablespoonful

One
taste

be found

to

this dish.
107

pleasant

152

BROILED

MUTTON

(Rognone di

KIDNEY
alia

montone

graticola)

washing the kidneys, remove

After
skin that

them

covers

and

the

in the middle

them

cut

filmy

without, however, detaching campletely the

parts. Season with
oil and put them on
ten

or

salt and
a

strong fire on

parsleyand

grease

the

with

After
grill.

they will be broiled. Serve

twelve minutes

hot with

pepper,

two

slices of lemon.
153

MUTTON

KIDNEY

(Granellidi
Wash,
and

cut

firstin
mixed
crumbs.

FRIED

fritti)

montone

the skin that

remove

covers

thin slices.Wipe with

in very

kidneys
cloth,dip

the
a

ground bread crumbs, then in a beaten egg

with melted butter, then again in the bread
This

must

be done

at
rapidly,

the time

of

frying,otherwise the bread crumbs absorb the

of the kidney and make them too hard.
moisture
Melt a piece of butter in a saucepan
on
a strong
fire and when
it begins to brown, dip the slices
of kidney. Turn often,sprinklewith a littleparsley
with lemon.
chopped fine,salt and serve
154
BEEF

TONGUE

BOILED

(Lingua di bue lessa)

The

cooked

tongue
remove

is boiled like the beef. When

the skin,which
108

is not

nice to

half
see

and

has

with

is served

beans,

or

elements, although it

nutrituous

no

with sprigs of

puree
etc.

of peas,
But it can

is

spinach or potatoes
be served simply

or

parsley.
155

BEEF

TONGUE

WITH

OLIVES

(Lingua di hue alle olive)

Scald the tongue and
put it back to boil until
Melt

peel off the skin. Then

fullycooked.

piece of butter and

sized onion
is browned

remove

in the latter

brown

half

in slices.When

cut

it from

dium
me-

the onion

the butter and

dilute

the
teaspoonful of flour. When
flour begins to brown, thin it with one
two
or
of soup stock hot and passed through a sieve.
cups
Mix and boil for ten minutes, seasoning with
salt and

pepper.

prepared placethe tongue

in the saucepan
containing it and let it cook again
low fire for about an hour, turning it over
a
on
with the
frequently and keeping it moistened
olives in a spiralto remove
Cut some
the
gravy.
and place it in the saucepan
with the tongue.
stone
When

the

sauce

This becomes
for

one

or

two

is

ves
tasty if left with the oli-

more

days.
156

STEWED

BEEF

TONGUE

(Lingua di bue in stufato)

Clean

fresh tongue

of beef; put it in
109

plate,

put it back in the ice-box

in the pantry, until the followingday.
After twenty-four hours, scald it in boiling

salt it
or

generouslyand

lard with

skin and

water,

and put it in

in which
largesaucepan
already placed.This seasoning

kettle

the seasoning is

or

of

|/2lb bacon
j/4lb. butter,one or two

consists

middle

two

with

thin slices of ham

flour,surround

stock and
of

of pepper

and

sized onions, sliced. Sprinklethe

place the saucepan

tongue begins to brown,
bunch

thin slices,

in very

cut

it with

and

soup

littlepieces of bacon

one

two

greens,

and

cup
or

meat

the fire. When

on

five

pour

of

chopped

gue
ton-

water.

the
of

six cups

or

Add

the usual

three cloves,salt,a

pinch

of cinnamon.

one

the saucepan
hours, rub the sauce

boil for about four

tightly,

Cover

through a

sieve

and

serve

everythinghot.
157
VEAL

SWEETBREADS

(Animelle di vitello)

Keep

in fresh water

for

hour. Then

place
them in a skimmer
(ladlewith holes) and dip in
broth. After a brief boilingreboilingwater
or
move
and

cool in cold

an

Then

water.

remove

the

and

them.
not
to tear
gullet,taking care
The sweetbreads
are
prepared in various ways
and here we
of the best known :
give some
veins

Sweetbreads

with butter.
110

"

Boil in broth

or

clean and

water,

salt and

of butter with

sliced sweetbreads
on

squeeze

into slices. Brown

cut

and brown

cleaned
white

and

with
cut

sauce

or

of nutmeg,
lemon.

taste
a

Sweetbreads

Before

them.

littlelemon

prepared in this way

with rice or vegetables.
Sweetbreads

Then

pepper.

piece
place the
a

juice. The

white

sauce.

breads
sweet-

preferably

served

are

ing
serv-

"

Boiled,

placed in
balsamella
(No. 54) adding a
salt and the juiceof half
pepper,
slices,they

into

in fricassee.

are

Boil, trim

"

and

cut

pieces.Then brown in butter with a scallion

from the
chopped fine. Once browned, remove
in which
a
tablespoonful of flour,
gravy
pour

into

moistened

bound

with

with

fried.
"

neither
largeslices,

juice.

Boil and
thick

too

trim.
nor

too

Then
thin.

cut

Dip

ground. Then
butter. Serve with vegetables.

in beaten

fry in

that results is

sauce

egg-yolksand lemon

Sweetbreads
in

broth. The

egg

and in bread

crumbs

158
TENDERLOIN

WITH

SPICES

(Filettoalia piemontese)
Clean and trim the meat,
skins.

Then

removing all the little

sprinklewith nutmeg, cinnamon,

and place in an
earthen vase
salt,and pepper,
covered, togetherwith a bunch of aromatic herbs,
onion, carrot and celery,
sage, parsley,
rosemary,
all chopped fine. After a few hours melt and
111

piece of butter with the aromatic herbs,

the latter and place the tenderloin,
then remove
for half an hour, prickingit
leavingit to simmer

brown

often with
its

large fork

juice to the

or

Serve

gravy.

lardingpin, to add

hot.

159
ONIONS

STUFFED

(Cipolleripiene)
Boil six
and

skin. Remove

knife. In the
made

with

mixed

spoonfuls of
When

an

hour. Then

drain

the point of

the heart with

placethe stuffing
or
tongue, chopped and
tablebread crumbs
ground, two
milk, two pinchesof salt and one of
the onions are preparedand stuffed

placeof the
J/4lb. of ham

with

pepper.

for

large onions

heart

whose
bottom
has
place them in a saucepan
been greased with butter,sprinkle with bread
crumbs
not
too
ground and place in the oven,
hot. At the time of serving add some
white sauce
balsamella (No 54). Stuffed onions are served
or
vegetables,or side-dish with roast-beef or
as
boiled-beef.
160

ONIONS

STEWED

in stufato)
(Cipolle

Keep in cold water,

pounds of middle-sized
and placein a saucepan
broth

as

is necessary

to

for half

in which

112

hour,

Afterward

onions.

cover

an

pour

them.

as

two

skin
much

Let them

Italyand

be

can

prepared in

however, it is better

to

various

ways.

with the addition

serve

of sausages,
with birds or tomato
or
The polenta is practically
corn-meal
made

the so-called farina

with

ways,
Al-

paste.
and it is

giallaor

yellow

flour.
The

ingredientsfor a good polentaare one

meal, preferablygranulous, one
pound of corn
and

quart
one

half of water,

piece of butter,one
the meal

Pour

salted in proportion,
and a half of milk.

cup

littleby littleinto boilingwater,

continuallystirringwith

wooden

the meal

is half

the milk

littleby little.While

cooked, put the butter and

the fire in

placeon

ful of olive oil

the oil is hot

spoon.

or

a
a

the

littlesaucepan

pour

polentaboils,
a tablespoon-

small piece of butter. When

the butter is melted, put

repeatedlypricked with a fork.

sausages

When

or

some

the sausages
cooked, pour the poare
lenta
and
hot in a dish and place the sausages

When

the gravy
in
Serve hot.
In

cavity practisedin the middle.

cooking the

leaves may

be added

sausages

two

and removed

or

three bay-

before serving.

164
SAUSAGES

WITH

ONIONS

(Salsiccealia cipollata)
The

salsicce alia

cipollataare

prepared with
in equal
bacon

and
pork meat
quantity, chopped fine and seasoned
fresh and

lean

114

with salt,

and

spices.Add

proportionalquantity
of onions chopped very fine,not too much, however.
Fill with the hash the prepared entrails,
pepper

tie every

two

inches

divide the sausages.

to

CELERY

(Sedano)
Beside being used

as

condiment

quantity of dishes, the celerymay

in various

different

dishes. We
those

that appear
tables:

to

ways

with

great

be

prepared
form appetizing vegetable

give here a certain number of

Italian
most
commonly
on
165

CELERY

WITH

BUTTER

(Sedano al burro)
Two

heads

celeryfor each pergon.

Clean and trim, removing the sprigs that are
too hard, and the leaves,that are
to be cut where
they begin to be green. Finally trim the stem.
Then wash
repeatedlyin running water, drain
and put to boil in salted boilingwater.
Remove
when
cooked and drain again.
of

About

three quarters of an hour before

melt a piece of butter in a saucepan

brown
ten

the

minutes.

celery,turning them
After

that

pour

ing,
serv-

and

often for about

over

hot stock

the saucepan
(soup stock or chicken broth) cover
and parboil.
A few moments
before serving season
with brown stock,if you have any at hand,

otherwise with salt and

pepper
115

only.

166

CELERY

AU

JUS

(Sedano al sugo)
Select nine
too

soft, and

the

root.

and

trim

Scald

them

cut

Remove

about

the green

the

and

cold water,

well -the

open

with

each that you

pint of broth or
and

good fat, onion

Cover

pepper.

hour. Then

and

in

point.
salted

and

bunches

wash

of

two

will put in a saucepan

and half a cup
water

carrot

chopped, salt

let it simmer
the

remove

from

branches

to

leaves

make

three heads

of

hard

nor

will be sufficient. Dip

minutes

Drain and
again carefully.
or

four inches

celery,after washing well,

Ten

hard

too

the root, cutting the latter

boilingwater.
in

heads, neither

ten

or

for about

celery,drain and

and
two

serve.

167

SAUCE

FOR

AU

CELERY

JUS

sedani al sugo)

(Salsa per
The

celery,prepared as above, are seasoned

with the following sauce:
Make
roux
a
melting
a
piece of butter and browning an equal weight
of flour; stir for about
after which
stock

with

or

very

roux

bouillon

with

cubes

sieve,

pour

over

hot.
116

the

on

sauce.

the fire,

littlebrown

diluted

stirringand reduce the

Continue

through

thin the

three minutes

in water.

Then

celeryand

rub
serve

168
FRIED

CELERY

(Sedani fritti)
This is

convenient

way

celery that

is stilltoo

good

Clean

the

to

left-over

prepare

be thrown

to

away.

left-over

celery removing as best

the sauce
in which they were
served, dip
can
you
with
in frying paste (flourand egg) fry and serve
lemon.
169
PUREE

CELERY

OF

(Macco di sedani)
Take
usual
water,

big

some

and

wash

crush

and

in

of

roots

running
rub

this puree,
flour and a littlecream

saucepan

celery,prepare

as

Boil in salted

water.

through a sieve. Put in a

with a piece of butter, salt,
milk

milk. The

or

substituted with good soup stock or brown

Just before serving add a littlepowdered

may

be

stock.
sugar.

170

STEW

(Stufato)
The

Italian stufato is somewhat

the stewed

meat

and

is

under

the

name

corresponds to the French

different
prepared in Italyin many

of "Irish stew".
daube

that is known

different from

It

ways.

An

excellent stufato
way:

can

Chop fine

two

117

be made

lowing
in the fol-

bunches

of

parsley,

small carrot, half

medium

sized onion,

little

piece of seallion and two bay-leaves.Brown with

in which one
a good piece of butter in a saucepan
and

half

of oil have been pretablespoonful

viously
poured.
have
hand,
The meat
been prepared beforemust
a

that is

to

washed, trimmed

say

half cooked,

When
and

moderately with salt

season

If necessary,

pepper.

moisten

During the cooking the

water.

with its

covered

must

or

be

sheet of paper
stufato will be ready

greased with fat or oil.The

after about three hours'

with broth

saucepan

and with

cover

and larded.

cooking on

low fire.

171
SOUTHERN

STEW

(Stufato Meridionale)
Put the piece of
size that

it remains

with

cups

two

of

hours

on

saucepan

of such

completelyfilled,moisten
and

water

with salt and

season

in

meat

pepper

two

and

of white wine,
cook

for five

low fire.

172
MILANAISE

STEW

(Stufatoalia milanese)
Beat and flatten a good pieceof meat and lard
with bacon or ham cut in small pieces.Season
with salt,pepper
flour

over

Place in

and
the

taste

of cinnamon.

kle
Sprin-

meat.

saucepan

littlefat of beef

118

chopped

with

middle

sized onion

of butter. When

the onion

and

placethe

with

melted

butter. Then

half

water,

half

meat

is browned

meat

is browned,

piece

remove

it

butter. Brown

the melted

over

with

and brown

with
fillthe saucepan
wine, but only when the

red
from

all sides. Cover

the best you can,

and let it simmer

with

and

cover

for five

the

pan
sauce-

greased paper

six hours

or

on

low fire.

very

After

removing

through

gravy

the stew,

let it cool, rub

sieve, put again

the

the fire and

on

hot.

serve

173

FRENCH

STEW

(Stufato alia francese)

Prepareon

the bottom

of thin slicesof ham,

on

cubes also of bacon.

of

sliced,a few

this bed

On

with bacon
and

or

some

of soup
wine. Cover
cups

very

When

stock

several

pepper.

be larded
that may
and seasoned with salt,
pepper

lay the
ham

placea bunch
cloves,half an

in littlecubes

carrots

meat

of cinnamon.

taste

this

salt,and
onions, bay-leaf,

young

on

In the middle

parsley,and around

onion

of the saucepan
a layer
which placeseveral little

or

Pour

water

and

on
one

the
cup

meat

of white

the saucepan
hermeticallyand
low fire for five hours.

the stufato

is to
119

be

served

two

cook

cold, the

is to be rubbed

gravy

through

gets cold.
Note.
In these and

sieve before

similar dishes

"

the

of wine, which

use

have

we

is

it

dicated
in-

common

in small quantitiesin Italian and

ingredient,
French cooking. This, however, can
always
be dispensed with if its taste is not appreciated,

for any

or

other

reason.

174

TROUT

ALPINE

(Trota all'alpigiana)
These

are

many

to

ways

fish,found in abundance
clear

that

water

pennine mountains.
wine, but, of

in the many

from

the

Often

the

run

this delicious

prepare

streams

of

Alps and the Atrout

is cooked

in

this part many

be changed.
called because it
so
all'alpigiana,

course,

For the trota

is the favorite dish of

be
Piedmont, the trout must
cleaned, scaled,washed, wiped then salted and
left under
Pour
to

in

which
few

bunch
a

the action
a

of the salt for about

will be added

cloves, two

quart of white wine

three medium
sized onions

and

of

garlicand a little
made of thyme, bay-leaf,
basil or mint ; finally
piece of butter as large as an egg, dipped

placeon
trout

bunch

hour.

fish-kettleone

sections

in flour. Then

the

an

put the trout

strong fire.When

is cooked.

of greens

some

and

in the fish-kettle and

Remove
serve

parsley.
120

the

the

liquidhas boiled

the onions
trout

and

the

with its gravy

Bake in the
baking-tin.
with anchovy sauce
(No. 17).
in

trout

and

oven

serve

178
EGGS

ONION

WITH

SAUCE

(Uova trippate)

Preparesome
into disks

be

half

removed

Then
mix

add

third of

one

Melt in
brown

hard boiled

an

from

to

the

the butter

but don't allow

minutes.

them, stir

warm

of flour,
teaspoonfuls

two

of

cup

and let simmer

pepper

the sliced eggs

Put

browned.

butter when

brown, thin with

to

in which

thin slices,to

into

cut

hot broth, add saltand

ten

piece of butter

onion

cut

inch thick.

an
a

saucepan

shell and

eggs,

in the

for
to

sauce

but carefully
little,
to avoid

breakingthem, and do
serving add to the sauce
and stir carefully.

boil again. Just before

not

of
teaspoonful

cream

179
EGGS

WITH

HAM

(Uova al prosciutto)
Place in

largelike

a
a

fryingpan
nut,

as

as

there

piecesof butter,

many
are

to

eggs

be cooked.

For each piece of butter put a littleslice of ham

and placethe fryingpan on the fire. As soon
as
the butter is melted break
ham.

Let cook for

ten

an

minutes
122

egg
on

on
a

each slice of

moderate

fire.

(Uova al pomidoro)
hard boiled eggs,
them
Prepare some
cut
through the middle lengthwise,placein good order

plate and pour

taking care not to cover
a

upon
sauce,

the

eggs,

which

must

with

balsamella

the

the eggs

tomato

part of

upper

the

from

emerge

Instead of the tomato,

good

some

sauce.

be

may

ged
arran-

(No. 54).

sauce

181

SCRAMBLED

EGGS

(Uova strapazzate)
Break

they are

the

an

saucepan

egg.

When

scramble them
When

plate,assuring firstthat

all fresh.

Melt in

big as

in

eggs

the

with salt and

piece of butter about

it is melted pour

with
eggs

are

fork

on

cooked

the

egg

as

and

low fire.

moderately

season

butter. Just when

take them

you

from

the fire and before serving add a taj

Serve hot
blespoonful of milk or liquidcream.
away

with

The

littlegratedcheese.
scrambled

of asparagus,

eggs

can

be served with points

truffles,
mushrooms,

prepared justas if they were

123

to go

etc.

in

an

which

are

omelet.

PART

PASTRY,

SWEETS,

II

FROZEN

DELICACIES,

SYRUPS
182
PUDDING

OF

HAZELNUTS

(Budino di nocciuole)
Shell half

pound of hazelnuts

in

warm

water

and

dry them well at the sun or on the fire,then

grind them very fine,togetherwith sugar, of a
less than the nuts.
Put one
weight somewhat
the fire,and when
it begins to
quart of milk on
boil,put two third Ib. lady fingersor macaroons
crumbed
and let it boil for five minutes, adding
small piece of butter. Rub everything through
a
put back on the fire with the nuts to
dissolve the sugar. Let it cool and add six eggs,

sieve

and

first the

yolks,then the white beaten, pour in a

mold
greased with butter and sprinkled with
bread crumbs
not
ground fine. The mold must
be all full.Bake
This

dose

in the

will be

oven

and

serve

sufficient for

cold.

eight or

ten

persons.

183

CRISP

BISCUITS

(Biscotticroccanti)
One

pound of flour.
Half a pound granulatedsugar.
'/4Ib. sweet almonds, whole and shelled,mixed
to a few pine-seeds.
124

piece of butter,one

pinch of anise-seeds.

Five
A

and

half

ounce.

eggs.

pinch of salt.

Leave

back

pine-seedsto add
everything with four

the almonds

them

afterward, and

eggs,

so

make

and

mix

the fifth if it is necessary

soft dough. Divide into four cakes
as

to

to

use

half

largeas a hand, place them

in a receptacle
greased with butter and sprinkled
with flour. Glaze the cakes with yolk of eggs.
will still
but only as much
Bake in the oven,
as
inch thick and

an

as

permit cutting the cakes

will do the day after, as

the

softened. Put the slices back

they will be toasted

have

both

on

slices,which

into

will then

crust

in the

you

oven

sides and

,so

you

be
that
will

the crisp biscuits.

184

SOFT

BISCUITS

teneri)
(Biscotti
For these biscuits it would
a

tin box

about

long than the

will have
more

corner

meal,

Sugar, four

and

littleless

inch, they will be of the right

an

ingredientsneeded
two
a

have

used. In this way

the biscuits
both sides and, if cut a little
on

oven

proportion. The
Flour, about

to

necessary

four inches wide

than half

Potato

be

ounces.

littleless.

ounces

(]/4Ib.)
125

are:

Sweet

almonds

Candied
Fruit

1 Yl

eggs.

Skin the almonds,

and

dry in the sun

usuallyleave them

in half

them

cut

lengthwise
the fire. Pastry cooks

at

or

with the skin but it is much

skin them.

to
preferable

Cut in littlecubes the

candied fruits and the preserve.

Stir for a long while, about

egg-yolksand

in the

sugar

ounce.

ounce,

one

preserve,

Three

angelica,one

or

orange

ounce.

the white of the

eggs

half

an

hour

the

littleflour then add

well beaten and when

every

it fall
thing is well beaten add the flour,letting
ing
from a sieve. Mix slowly and scatter on the mix-

the cubes

and

the almonds

and

preservedfruit.Grease
with flour. Bake
the
on

in the

of candied

sprinklethe

oven

day after. If desired these

and
can

cut

185
SULTAN

(Biscotto alia sultana)

Granulated

sugar,

Flour, four

ounces.

Potato

meal,

two

Currants, three
Candied

six

ounces.

ounces.

ounces.

fruits,one

ounce.

Five eggs.
A taste of lemon
Two

peel.
of brandy.
tablespoonfuls
126

tin box

the biscuits

also be roasted

both sides.

BISCUITS

and

Put

firston

fruits

brandy
when
out

then

or

the fire the

cut

littlecubes with

in very
as

cognac

and

currants

is necessary

to

cover

the

died
can-

much

as

them:

boils,lightthe brandy and let it burn

of the fire until the liquoris all consumed:
it

the

remove

and

currants

candy and let them

folded

napkin. Then stir for half an hour

the sugar with the egg-yolksand the taste of lemon
peel.Beat well the white of the eggs and
them on the sugar and yolks.Add the flour
pour
fall from a sieve
and potato meal lettingthem
and stir slowly until everything is well mixed
and
the pieces of
together.Add the currants
candied fruits and pour the mixing in a smooth
mold or in a high and round cake-dish. Grease the
mold or the dish with butter and sprinklewith
in the oven
powdered sugar or flour. Put at once
dry

to

in

avoid

that the

fall in the

and

currants

the candied fruits

oven.

186
CAKE

MARGHERITA

(Pasta Margherita)
Potato

meal, three

Sugar, six
Four
Lemon
Beat

ounces.

ounces.

eggs.

juice.
well the

the potato meal

egg-yolkswith the
and

everything for half

the
an

lemon

hour.
127

sugar,

add

juice and stir

Finallybeat well

the whites, and mix

the rest, stirringcontinually

but

slowly. Pour the mixture in a smooth and

round mold, greased with butter and sprinkled
with powdered sugar. Put at once
in the oven.
from

Remove
with

powdered

the mold
and

sugar

when

cold and

dust

vanilla.

187

MANTUA

TART

(Torta Mantovana)
Flour, six

ounces.

Sugar, six ounces.

Butter, five ounces.
Sweet

almonds

and

One

whole

Four

egg-yolks.

taste

ounces.

egg.

of lemon

First work

pine-seeds,two

peel.

well with

ladle the eggs with the

the flour littleby little,
stillstirring,
a

then pour
and finallythe butter, previouslymelted

sugar,

double

steamer

dry well

in the

in

(bain-marie).Put the mixture

in a pie-dishgreased with butter and sprinkled
with flour or bread crumbs
ground. On top put
Cut the latter in
the almonds
and the pine-seeds.
half and cut the almonds, previouslyskinned in
warm
water, each in eightor ten pieces.This tart
inch, so that it can
must
not be thicker than one
a

oven,

which

Sprinklewith powdered
128

must

sugar

not

and

be
serve

too

hot.

cold.

almonds

Sweet

with

bitter

some

two

ones,

ounces,

Six whole

eggs

and three egg

Taste of lemon

yolks,

peel.

and
water
skinning the almonds in warm
drying them well,grind or better pound them well
togetherwith a tablespoonfulof sugar and mix
After

well with the flour.

Put the

of the sugar in
mon
yolks and the grated le-

deep dish with the egg

peel (justa taste) and

hour.
quarter of an
and
six whites of egg

rest

stir with

In another

ladle for

dish beat the

when

they have become

ring
quite thick mix them with other ingredientsstirslowly everythingtogether.
To bake placethe mixture
in a baking-tingreased
evenly with butter and sprinkledwith powdered
sugar

and

flour.
190

CORN

CAKES

MEAL

(Pasta di farina gialla)

Corn

meal,

flour,five and

Wheat

Granulated

Lard,

two

pinch of

anise

egg.

Mix

togetherthe

seed and

half

half

half

ounces,

ounces,

half

ounces,

ounces,

ounces,

One

anis

five and

sugar,

Butter,three and
A

and

seven

knead

seed,

corn

meal, the flour and the

with the butter, the lard and

130

the egg that quantity that you

forming a
can,
remains
is to
loaf that you will put aside. What
with water
be kneaded
forming another loaf.
the

Then

mix

much

because

loaves and

two

the dough

knead
remain

must

little,
not

ten
soft. Flat-

rolling
pin until it becomes one quarter
of an inch thick, sprinklewith flour,and cut
in different sizes and shapes with thin stamps.
Grease a baking tin with lard, sprinkle,with
flour, glaze with the egg, bake and dust with
powdered sugar.
with the

191
BISCUIT

(Biscotto)
Six eggs,
Granulated

Flour, four
Potato

two

Taste of lemon

eggs

with

ounces,

peel.

least half

at

the

sugar

until

eggs

and

they

with the firstmixture

pour

the potato
on

a
a

are

yolks of the
tablespoonfulonly of
ladle. Beat the whites

quite firm, mix

and when
from

the

they are

sieve

meal, previouslydried

slowly

well incorporat

the flour and

in the

sun

or

the fire.
Bake

one

over

hour

an

the flour and meal, using

of the

ounces,

ounces,

meal,

Stir for

nine

sugar,

in

inch and

tin where
a

the mixture

comes

about

half thick,previouslygreasing the

131

tin with

cold butter and

mixed

sugar

sprinklewith powdered

with flour.

In these cakes with beaten

method

whites the

also be followed:

can

and

mix

following
stir first

the

yolks with the sugar, then put the flour then,

after a good kneading, beat the whites until they
firm, pour
two
tablespoonfulsto soften the
are
mixture, then the rest littleby little.
192
MADELEINE

CAKE

(Pasta Maddalena)

Sugar, four and

Flour, three
Butter,

one

half

ounces,

ounces,
ounce,

Egg-yolks,four,
Whites of eggs, three,
pinch of bi-carbonate of soda,
A taste of lemon peel.
First mix and stir the yolks with the sugar and
when
whitish, add the flour
they have become
A

stir for fifteen minutes

and

more.

Mix

with

the

butter,melting or softeningit fine if it is hard and

add the whites when they are well beaten.
finally
The flour must
be previouslydried in the aun
or
on

the fire.
This

cake

may

be given different

shapes, but

always thin and in littlevolume. It can be

led
put in littlemolds greased with butter and sprinkwith flour, or else in a baking tin, keeping it
keep

it

132

not

more

than

half

inch thick, and

an

cutting it
and dusting

after

baking in the shape of diamonds

with powdered sugar.
193

ALMOND

CRISP-TART

(Croccante)
Sweet

almonds, four and

Granulated

sugar,

three and

Skin the almonds, divide the

half
a

ounces.

half

ounces.

parts and cut

each part into small pieces. Put these almonds
so
cut
at the fire and
dry them until they take a

yellowishcolor, but do
the

sugar

on

the fire in

not
a

two

toast.

saucepan

Meanwhile

put

and, when

it

hot and
perfectlymelted, pour the almonds
browned.
Now
lower the fire and
alreadysligthly
be careful not to allow the compound
to be overdone.
ture
when
the mixThe precise point is known
little
color. Then
acquires a cinnamon
pour
by littlein a cold mold, previouslygreased with
butter or oil.Press with a lemon against the walls
thin as posof the mold, making the mixture
as
sible.
the mold
when
from
Remove
perfectly
cooled and, if it is difficult to do so, dip the mold
in boilingwater.
is

The

almonds

can

also be dried in the

chopped fine, adding a small

when
they are in the sugar.

133

piece of

sun

and
butter

194

WAFER

BISCUITS

(Cialdoni)
Put

in

kettle:

Flour, three
Brown

ounces.
one

sugar,

Lard

virgin,half

Cold

water,

ounce.

ounce.

an

tablespoonfuls.

seven

the

First dilute the flour and

then add

water,

Put

the lard.

the fire the iron for waffles

on

in the

sugar

better

or

an

it is
appropriatediron for flattened wafers. When
quite hot open it and placeeach time half a tablespoonful of the paste. Close the iron and press

well. Pass

both

on

sides, trim

all

knife and open

the iron when
you
detach it
Then
that the wafer is browned.
with

around
see

from
on

the fire

over
a

and

side of the iron

one

the iron

stick. This

itself or

on

operation

as

it is roll it

napkin using
be made

must

if the wafer

rapiditybecause

hot

with

gets cold, it

little
great

cannot

be rolled.

Should
grease

firm

the wafers

it from

time

enough, add

These

whipped

remain
to

attached

time, and

if

to

the iron,

they

are

not

littleflour.

wafer-biscuits

are

cream.

134

generallyserved with

195

CAKE
QUINCE
(Cotognata)
The

ingredientsare

ces
pounds of quinand four pounds of granulated sugar.
Put on the fire the apples covered with water,
and when
them, skin
they begin to crack remove
and scrape
the
to put togetherall the pulp. Rub
latter through a sieve. Put back the pulp on the
fire with the sugar
and stir continuallyin order
that it may

attack

not

It will be enough
and
when

on

to

the bottom

to

boil for

when

remove

six

it

seven

of the kettle.
nutes
eight miform pieces

or

begins to

lifted with the ladle.

Now
it

about

in order to prepare

board

dollar and

the thickness

to

dry

cloth

to

it in

the form

each

piece from

keep

the

it in the

quince-cakespread
of about

covered

sun

the flies.When

away

of chocolate
the board

with
it is

tablets and

silver
cheese

dry

cut

remove

passing the blade of

knife underneath.
If it is wished

to

make

it

crisp, melt

about

pounds of granulatedsugar with

two
tablespoonfulsof water and when the sugar
the thread" smear
has boiled enough to "make

three and

every

half

of the littlequince cakes

one

with

it. If

the sugar becomes

too hard during the operation
and
the fire with a littlewater
put it back on
make

it boil

side and

on

again. When
the

edge, smear
135

the sugar is dry on

the other side.

one

196

PORTUGUESE

CAKE

(Focaccia alia Portoghese)

Sweet

almonds, five

Granulated

sugar,

Potato

meal,

Three

eggs.

One

five
and

one

big orange

First mix

ounces.

or

ounces.

half

ounce.

small.

two

the

yolks of the eggs with the sugar,

then add the flour,then the almonds
skinned and
chopped fine, then the orange
juice (through a
colander) then a taste of orange peel.Finallyadd
the mixture

to

Put
with

in
a

paper

the whites of the eggs well beaten.

mold greased evenly with butter,

thickness

of about

inch and

an

bake

in

After baked, cover

moderately hot oven.
with a white glaze or frost,made with powdered
lemon juiceand the white of eggs.
sugar,
very

197

MACAROONS

(Amaretti)
I

Granulated
Sweet

sugar,

nine

ounces.

almonds, three and

half

ounces.

Bitter almonds, half of the above

quantity.

Whites
Skin
very

and

of egg, two.
and dry the almonds, then

fine. Mix

the

stir for about

sugar

half

an

136

and

chop

the whites

them

of

egg

hour, then add the al-

of

of

an

stick and

inch thick. Take

walnut.

third of

them

Flatten them
inch and

an

putting

in

With

hot

with

one

littleballs

large

as

the thickness

to

rest

powdered

above, but dust with

by

one

up

for the

third

all equal,one

fingersand make

moistened
as

it in rounds

cut

proceed as
sugar

of

said

before

oven.

this dose

about

thirtymacarons

can

be

obtained.
198
FARINA

CAKES

di semolino)
(Pasticcini

Farina, six and

half

ounces.

Sugar, three and a half

Pine-seeds, two ounces.
Butter, a small piece.
Milk, one
quart.
Four
A

to

ounces.

eggs.

pinch of salt.

peel.

Taste

of lemon

Cook

the farina in the milk and when

thicken

the

pine-seeds,previouslychopped
pounded with the sugar, then the

pour

fine and

the rest, less the eggs

the mixture
last when

butter and
put

in

it begins

which
had

must

be

completely

placethe whole well mixed in little

molds, greased evenly with butter and sprinkled
with bread crumbs ground fine,and bake.
cooled.

Then

X38

199
TART

RICE

(Torta di riso)
Milk,

one

Rice,

seven

quart.
ounces.

Sugar, five
Sweet

and

almonds
half

Candied
Three

half

ounces.

with four bitter ones,

three and

ounces.

cedar
whole

(angelica),one

ounce.

eggs.

Five

egg-yolks.
Taste of lemon
peel.
A pinch of salt.
Skin

with

the almonds

Cook

grind

of the
tablespoonfuls

two

Cut

and

the candied

cedar

the rice in the milk

in

or

pound

them

small

cubes.

sugar.
very

until it is quite firm,

put in all the ingredientsexcept the eggs, which

added when
the mixture
is cold. Put the entire
are

greased with butter and

sprinkledwith bread crumbs ground fine,harden
in

mixture

in the

baking

and

oven

after 24 hours

When

diamonds.

tin

the

cut

serving dust

with

tart

into

powdered

sugar.

200
FARINA

TART

(Torta di semolino)
Milk,
Farina

one

quart.

finelyground, four and

Sugar, four and

half
139

ounces.

half

ounces.

almond.s with three bitter,three and

Sweet
half

ounces.

Butter, a small piece.

Four

eggs.

Taste

of lemon

peel.

pinch of salt.

Skin

the almonds

warm

pound very fine with all the

tablespoonfulat a time.

or
one

Cook

and

sugar,

to

will dissolve

sugar.

Then

it becomes

be beaten

baking

easily,being mixed
put the pinch of salt and

be mixed

ing
remov-

whole
tin

add

to

wait

until
to

in

greased evenly with butter,sprinkled

and of such

tart

has the thickness of

the

oven,

or

an

inch

size that the

or

the mold

from

remove

whole

the

with

the eggs that are

previously.Pour the mixture

lukewarm

with bread crumbs

less. Put it in

when

into sections.

cut

201

PUDDING

OF

RICE

MEAL

(Budino di farina di riso)

Milk, one
quart.
Rice meal, seven

Sugar, four and

ounces.
a

half

Six eggs.
A pinch of salt.
Taste

ground

the fire add the butter and the almonds,

which

serve

water

the farina in the milk and before

from

in

of vanilla.
140

ounces.

cold and

First dissolve the rice meal

milk

when

cold, and

milk

when

it is

the

from

fire and

the

to

the meal

prevent

is cooked

the salt. Remove

it is lukewarm

when

of the

rest

is done

the butter and

sugar,

pint of the

it in the

pour

boiling.This
of lumps. When

the formation
add

in half

the

mix

(beaten) and the taste of vanilla. Then bake

the pudding like all the others and serve
warm.
eggs

202
BREAD

PUDDING

(Budino di pane)
Soft bread

five

crumb,

Butter, three and

Four

half

ounces.

eggs.

Taste of lemon
A

ounces.

peel.

pinch of salt.

Cut

the bread

crumb

cold milk. Then

butter in

pieces and

into

soak

in

rub

double

though a sieve. Melt the

boiler (in a vessel immersed

boilingwater) and mix with the eggs until

butter and eggs
are
incorporatedto each other.
in

Add

the bread

well. Pour
butter

crumb

the mixture

and
in

the
a

and

sugar

mold

mix

greased with

and

sprinkledwith bread crumb

fine and bake like other puddings.

ground

203

POTATO

PUDDING

(Budino di patate)
Potatoes, big and

mealy,
141

one

and

half Ib.

Sugar, five and

Butter, one and

half

half

ounces.
ounces.

tablespoonful.
Milk, half a pint.

Flour,

Six eggs.
A pinch of salt.
Paste of cinnamon
Boil

through
fire with

sieve.

peel.

potatoes, skin and

Place them back again on

rub

the

steam

or

lemon

or

the

the milk, all

the butter, the flour and

poured littleby little,

stirringwell with the ladle,
then
or

add

lemon

the sugar,

peel (justa taste)and

togetherwell.
the mixture
firstthe
Bake

the cinnamon

the salt and

from

Remove

is lukewarm

or

everything

mix

the fire and, when

cold add

the eggs,

yolks,then the whites beaten.

like all other puddings and serve

hot.

204

LEMON

PUDDING

(Budino di limone)

big lemon.
Sugar, six ounces.

One

Sweet

almonds

Six eggs.
Cook the lemon

with 3 bitter ones,

in water,

six

for which

ounces.

two

hours

dry and rub through a

enough. Remove
sieve. Before rubbing, however, taste it,because
be kept in cold water
if it has a bitter taste it must
Add
the
until it has lost that unpleasant taste.

will be

142

the almonds

sugar,

and

the six

the

eggs

then

skinned

yolks of the

and

to

mold

and

ground

very

fine

Beat the whites

eggs.

them

add

be put in

and

that will

the mixture
baked

of

like all other

puddings.
205
PUDDING

OF

ROASTED

ALMONDS

(Budino di mandorle
Milk,

quart.
Sugar, three and

tostate)

one

Sweet

almonds,

half

two

ounces.

ounces.

Lady-fingerbiscuits,two
Three

ounces.

eggs.

First prepare
them in warm

the almonds, that is

and

water

plate of

them

toast

to

say

skin

the fire

on

then

grind very
fine. Boil the sugar
broken
and the lady-fingers,
in littlepieces in the milk, mixing well.
After
half an
hour of boiling,keeping always stirred,
rub the mixture
through a sieve. Then add the
toasted and ground almonds. When
it is cold add
a

over

the beaten
bottom
sugar

eggs,

iron

pour

or

it in

will be covered
and

cook

put the mold

in

stone,

smooth

with

double

well closed in

mold, whose

film of

boiler,that
a

liquified
is to

kettle full of

say

boiling

water.

When
before

cooked

let it cool and

serving.
143

place in ice-box

206

CRISP

CAKE

IN

(Cr ocean

te

Sugar, five and

Sweet

DOUBLE

bagno maria)

half

ounces.

almonds, three

ounces.

BOILER

Egg-yolks, five.
Milk,

pint.

one

Skin the almonds

about

big as

as

and

chop them

grain of wheat.

in littlepieces

Put

on

the fire

thirds of the sugar and when it is all melted

the almonds
and stir continuallywith the
pour
ladle until they have taken the color of cinnamon.
two

Then
and

put them

when

greased with butter

cold, pound them very fine
in

tin

they are
with the remaining third of sugar.
Add the yolks and then the milk, mix well and
the mixture

pour

middle
mold

by

and
in

in

mold

with

hole in the

greased evenly with butter. Place the

double boiler

so

that it will be cooked

steam.

206

STUFFED

PEACHES

(Pesche ripiene)
Six

big peaches not very ripe.

biscuits.
Four or five lady-finger
Granulated
Two

ounces

sugar,
sweet

three

ounces.

almonds

with

three peach

kernels.
Candied

fruit

(angelica)half
144

an

ounce.

proof glassplate,with
in between

and

littlepieces of butter

some

brown

them

littlein the

oven.

hot.

Serve

208

SABAYON

(Zabaione)
Yolks

of three eggs.
Granulated
two
sugar,
Marsala
A

dash

or

ounces.

sherry wine, five tablespoonfuls.

of cinnamon.

gar
yolks and the suuntil they become
almost white, then add the
When
wine.
ready to serve, place the saucepan
and beat
in another
one
containing hot water
until the sugar
is melted
and the egg begins to

First stir with

the ladle the

thicken.

SYRUPS

(Sciroppi)
The

syrups

of acidulated

fruits,diluted with

refreshingand pleasantbeverages,
months.
greatlyappreciatedduring the summer

ice water

are

It is well, however,

not

to

drink them

until the

digestionis completed, because

it,on

they may disturb

that they contain.

of the sugar

account

209
RED

CURRANT

OR

SYRUP

GOOSEBERRY

(Sciroppo di ribes)
Remove
and

the

stems

place them

the bunches

from
in
146

an

earthen

of berry
gooseto be
vase,

kept

ment
it has begun to ferplace.When
(which may
happen after three or four

in

cool

days) sink the surface film and stir with a ladle

twice
a
day, continuing this operation until it
has stopped raising.Then
put in a cheese cloth,
out
lettingthe juice come
through pressing with
the hands or in a machine. Pass the juice through
a

two
filter,

obtain
and
sugar

or

three times

if necessary,

until you
the fire

limpid liquid. Then put it on

when
it begins to boil pour
in it granulated
and
citric acid in the following proportions
a

Liquid, six pounds.

Sugar, eight pounds.
Citric acid, one
That is

to

say

ounce.

for each three parts of the

add

four parts of sugar,

and one
acid for eight pounds of sugar

pounds of liquid.
Stir continuallywith the ladle
does
some

not

stick

to

the bottom,

citric acid if you

more

of citric

ounce

mixed

so

with

that the

taste

judge

liquid,

it to

six

gar
su-

add

it necessary,

then let it cool and

When
tumbler

place in bottles to be sealed.

beverage is to be prepared pour in a

less than

tumblerful

of ice

half

an

water.

147

inch

of syrup

for

210
RASPBERRY

SYRUP

(Sciroppo di lam pone)

This is

prepared like the other explainedabove

but, since this fruit contains less gluten than the
will be
gooseberry the period of fermentation
briefer. The largequantity of sugar
used in these
for their conservation

is necessary

syrups

citric acid is used

to

and the

the excessive

correct

ness.
sweet-

211

SYRUP

LEMON

(Sciroppo di limone)
Three
One
A

big lemons.
and a half pound of

tumbler

Skin

the

water

the fire with

on

cut

in

knife. When

small

the internal

pulp

taking off all seeds.

it and

squeezing

of the lemons
a

water.

the lemons, removing

without
Put

of

sugar.

the skin of

like stripwith

thin ribbon
the

water

one

is

boiling

near

the lemon skin and

then remove
put in the sugar
the pulp of the three lemons. Boil until
immerse
the syrup
is known

is condensed

by the pearlsthat

the color of white wine

in

bottle,and when

of ice

and

water.

small

cooked
it makes

right,which

boilingand

that is acquires.Preserve

needed, dilute

in

quantity will make

beverage.
148

tumbler
a

lightfu
de-

212
HARD

SYRUP

BLACK-BERRY

(Sciroppo di amarena)
Use

hard but ripe black berries. They

of the

kind

sour

unripe. Remove
a

vase

The
as

with

the

at

be

and put the berries into

stems

the berries begin

as

time

or
a

not

must

time.

to

the juice,with
one,

said, they

as

cinnamon.
good piece of whole
fermentation will happen after 48 hours and

soon

from

but,

be

must

with

rested for

extract

to

if

cloth.
"

it has been

have

you

hands, squeezing them

your

few

the liquidhas

When

while, filterit until

clear. When
fire in

them

press

pressing machine

in cheese

time

Then

rise, stir them

to

it becomes

depurated,put

quite

it

on

the

following proportion and with the

that was
already immersed
in
piece of cinnamon
the cherries: Twelve
pounds of liquidto sixteen
of citric acid,
pounds of sugar and two ounces
three parts of liquidto four of sugar
and the
or
citric acid as
in the above
proportion.
the

Before
wait

putting

ing.
liquidis quite hot, just before boilstir continually.
The boilingmust
be

brief,four
the
When

Cork

the citric acid

and

until the
Then

it in

in the sugar

an

or

five minutes

sugar

in the

removing
earthen

vase

are

sufficient

to

porate
incor-

liquid.

the syrup
from the fire,put
and bottle when
quite cold.

the bottles well and

149

keep

in

cool

place.

213

ORGEAT

(Orzata)
almonds

Sweet

with

10

12 bitter

or

ones,

seven

ounces.

Water,

and half

one

Granulated
Skin

from

time

which

you

When

sugar,

the almonds

better

or

pounds.
two
pounds.
and grind them

pound them
to

time

will

in

with

use

mortar,

orange

about

the almonds

two

have

very

fine,

moistening

flower

of

water,

tablespoonfuls.
been

reduced

to

third of the water

paste, dissolve the latter in one
and filterthe juicethrough a cheese cloth,squeezing
hard. Put the paste, back

in the

grinderor in
the mortar, grind or pound again, then filteragain
with another third of the water.
Repeat the same
operation for a third time, then put on the fire
and
the liquidso obtained
just before boiling
put the sugar,
Let
minutes.

mix, stir and boil for about twenty

it cool, then bottle and keep in a

place.The
thick liquidmay

cool

for

whole

orgeat does not ferment and the

be diluted in water, half an inch

tumbler

of iced

150

water.

PRESERVES
214
APRICOT

MARMALADE

(Conserva di albicocche)
Use

good and ripe apricots.It is

believe that jam

with

kind

any

them

of fruit. Take

the fire without

on

boil, stir with

When

marmalade

or

ladle

while

and
them

boiled for about

they have

rub them

off the stones,

water

to

be obtained

can

reduce

to

mistake

half

to

put

they
pulp.
hour,

an

separate the pulp of

be thrown
the skins that are
to

through

the fruit from

sieve

to

the fire with graput them back on

nulated
in the proportion of eight tenths,
sugar

then

away,

for ten
eight pounds of sugar
pounds of apricot pulp. Stir often with the ladle
that is

to

say

acquires the firmness

until the mixture

which

will be

known

of

malade,
mar-

by putting from

teaspoonfulin a plate and seeing

that it flows slowly.
from the fire,let it cool,
When
ready, remove
time

and

to

time

then

film of
so

put

in

well covered

vases

paraffineor
that the air

tissue
may

not

paper
pass

and

dipped

with

hol,
in alco-

in.

215

OF

PRESERVE

QUINCE

(Conserva di cotogne soda)

The
the

core

quinces, peeled and with

in the
and granulated sugar,

ingredientsare
removed,

151

proportion of eight tenths

tenths of sugar,
half quinces for

or

quinces

littlemore

part of

one

of

than

five

to

and

one

sugar.

the sugar on the fire with half a glass

boil a little,
then remove
from the fire

Dissolve
of water,
and

put aside.

Cut the quinces

"

thin slices and

peeled and coreless

put them

in very

"

the fire with

on

glass

of water,

supposing the quantity to be about two

in a while
pounds. Keep covered, but stir once
with the ladle,trying to break the slices and reduce
them

paste. When

the

quinces

through cooking, pour

of sugar
already prepared,

syrup

let the mixture

the

boil with

are

in the thick

tender

made

and

to

mix

and

stir

removed

cover

will be known
is ready, which
until the preserve
taken up
when
it begins to fall like shreds when
with

the ladle.

Let it cool and

put in well covered

jars.

ICES

(Gelati)
Although
greater

that it

it is in

America

consumption of ice
first made, and
was

capitalsit

is the

Italian

the frozen

that

cream,

there

"s

Italy
European

it is in

in various

gelatierewho

prepares

A few Italian recipesof gelati

delicacy.
will then be acceptable,we
believe, as a conclusion
to

this littlework.
152

218

STRAWBERRY

ICE

(Gelato di fragola)

Ripe strawberries, 24 Ib.

Granulated
24 Ib.
sugar,
Water, one
pint.
A big lemon.
An

an

orange.

Boil the sugar

in the water
for ten
uncovered
kettle. Rub
through

strawberries
orange

and

minutes

in

sieve

the

and

the

the juice of the lemon

add the syrup

after straining,mix everything
in the freezer.
and pour
the mixture
:

219

ICE

ORANGE

(Gelato di aranci)
Four

-One

big oranges.
lemon.

One

pint of water.
Sugar, % Ib.
Squeeze the

oranges

and

the lemon

and

strain

the juice.
for ten minutes,
Boil the sugar
in the water
cold, strain again and put
put in the juice when
in the freezer.

154

220

PISTACHE

ICE

CREAM

(Gelato di pistacchi)
Milk,

quart.

one

Sugar, six ounces.

Pistaches, two
ounces.
Skin

the

and grind
water
pistachesin warm
them very fine with a tablespoonfulof the sugar,
then put in a saucepan
with the yolks and the
mixing everything together.Add the milk
sugar,
the fire stirringwith the
on
put the mixture
ladle and when
like cream,
let it
it is condensed

and

cool and

put in the freezer.

221
TUTTI
To

make

this ice
a

or

necessary,

tin

FRUTTI

specialice cream
receptaclethat can

mold

is

be closed

hermetically.
Take

of fruits of the

several varieties

season,

berries,
quality,that is to say, strawcherries,plums, apricots,a big peach, a
good sized pear, a piece of good cantaloupe.Peel,

ripe and

skin and

of good

fruits.Then
away

cut

the

and

stones

remove

them

cores

into very

and

cores

of all these

thin slices,
throwing

stones.

prepared in this manner,

fifth of its
one
weigh it, and sprinkle over
squeezing also one
weight of powdered sugar,
When

the

fruit is

155

lemon.

Mix

for half
Put

an

everything and let the

mixture

rest

hour.

sheet of paper
of the mold
in the bottom
that is to be filledwith the fruit pressedtogether,
a

close,and pack in salt and ice,keeping it for

hours or a little
less.
This is not
in

America,

comes

very

the tutti frutti ice

but

cream

macedoine

pleasant to the

months.

151

taste

as

of

two

is known

fruits,that

in the

summer

INDEX
RECIPES

TO

REFER

NUMBERS

Page

Page

hen, 143

African

cake,

Almond,

133

cake, 193

crisp
(roasted)

"

....

pudding,
143

205

16

Anchovy sauce, 14
Apricot marmelade,

in mold,

Asparagus,
Balsamella,
soup,

"
.

"
"

sauce,

"

78

104

85

114
sauce,

46

59

95

Birds, 132
Biscuit, 191
Biscuit
(ice), 216
Biscuit, cripp, 183
soft, 184
sultan, 185
wafer, 194

131

syrup,

Cod

125

"

126

15

stock, 13
Cabbage, stuffed, 112

Brown

83
129

Cake, almond, 189

meal, 190
corn
crisp, 206
Madeleine, 192
Margherita, 186
portugaise, 196
quince, 195
Cakes, farina, 198
Caper Sauce, 57
2
Cappelletti, soup,
Cauliflower, in mold, 95

130

with

sherry, 42

...

sauce,

sausages,

44

37

43

36

41

35

36
..

tomatoes,

piquan-

sauce

101

"

90-91

91
.

91

double

in

boiler,
144

206

Croquettes, fried, 67
Curly tart, 188
209
Currant, syrup,
Cutlets, chopped meat,

132

veal,

53

129
146
74

58
..

58

75

57

73

127

"

Dog

135
138

sausages,

30

Crisp cake

"

136

with

130
31

36

144

Duck,
"

45
6
...

egg

102

fried,
meal, cake, 190
pie, 37

Y
62
.

....

Broth,

with
with

51

fish, boiled, 122, 123

croquettes, 125

Corn

149

3
Bread
soup,
of Veal
stuffed, 80.
Breast
Brittle (see crisp cake)

100

124

134
212

stuffed, 139
stuffing, 64
with ham, 141

te, 140

124

"

saute, 142

102

with
with

"

153

"

Blackberry

29

79

106

..

fried, 34

78
.

37

saute, 45

breasts

27

...

72

157

stewed,
stuffed, 76, 138
fish,fried, 126
stewed, 127

59-99
92
92
38

wild, 46
with

104

144

tame,

Eels, stewed,
"

30
33

40

115

alia

with

stuffed
with

butter, 165
cacciatora, 35.
and
boned
stuffed,

with

Chicken

26

stuffed, 105

117

116

for, 167

sauce

27
25

steamed,
stewed, 30

77
117

31

73

96
29

meat,

83
116

169

puree,

151

214

Artichockes, with butter,

fried, 28

Bean

Cauliflower,
la, 111
Celery, au jus, 166
dressing 103
fried, 168

129

189

balsamel-

with

103

88

118

peas,

119

88

continued

INDEX,

Page

Page

123

Eggs, scrambled, 181

"
with
ham, 179
with onion
with tomato

"
"

the

in

"

sauce,

100

fried,

Egg-plants,
"

102

oven,

101

stewed,

Hare,
"

Ices, biscuits,
lemon,

152

"

Lamb,
"

"

with

Lemon,

107
.

61

33
ome^t,
lej? of, 147
omelet, 33

ion
29

peas,

ice, 217
pudding,

61
153

10
68

"

butter
cheese, 15

with
with

tomato
or

Macaroons,

stock, 16
197

for

206

82
81
80

beef, 109
sauce,

117

98

106

(See Squabs)
Pistache, ice, 220
Polenta
pie, 37
"

with

31

sausages,

36,
30-113

163

Pork
"

liver

Portuguese
Pot-roast,

ce
sau-

66

53
105

196

136

146

cake,
130
with

....

60

77

fried,

roast,

and

garlic, 131

larded,

brown
136

broiled, 148

Polpettone,

18

144

Bis

108

onion

19

17

11

10

ham,

with
with

50

63

frying,

soup,

18

....

154
150

213

syrup,

21

18

17

sauce,

112
112

Pigeon, surprise, 137

20

...

29
48

61

159

Peaches, stuffed,
Peas, with corned
"

47

ice, 219

148

Lentils, soup, 9
Liver, loaf, 89
Macaroni, Napolitaine, 20
fried with oil,21
gratin, 19
au
la
Corinna, 18
a
"
with anchovy
"

Paste
Pavese

142

204

211

syrup,

stuffed,
Orange,
Orgeat,
Panata,

96
78

54
57-96

160

Onions, stewed,

61

79

shoulder.
roast, 133

"

150.

anchovy,

with

"

89

curled, 60
lamb, 33
veal kidney,

Omelet,

5""
107

89

leg of, 72, 134

108
.,.

74
...

cutlets, 84

Mutton,

155

saute,
sliced 151

"

73
98

121

154

71

"

11
74

egg

with

154

108

145

sauce, 120
tomato
sauce,

Mussels, with

153

pistache, 220
strawberry, 218
tutti frutti,221

60
52

Omelet,
stuffing,65

gnocchi, 207
Minestrone, 9
dried, 99
Mushrooms,
"
fried, 97
stewed,

153

155

65

77

97

219

151
.

Milk

145

216

127
.

86

Genovese,

fried, 153

"

"

128

apricot, 214

42

Kidney, broiled,

"

76

86

217

orange,

"

54-55

51

stewed,

Meat,

76

86

bread

milk, 207
roast, 135

"

75

139

crumbs, 116
"
116
cutlets, stewed,
Fry, Roman, 68, 69
Gnocchi, 4

Pish,with

Marmelade,

138

tart, 200

"

123

198

Farina, cakes,

122

tart, 187
Margherita cake, 186

122

178
180

sauce,

132

192

cake,

Madeleine
Mantona

136

pudding, 203
Preserve, quince, 215

Potato

158

94
95
98
141
151

INDEX,

continued

Page

page

141

202

bread,

Pudding,

88

Genovese,
Lazelnuts,

67
124

....

182

204

lemon,
potato, 203
rice

141
201

meal,

140

....

143

Paste, 62
Quince, cake, 195
Puff

135
151

215

preserve,

Rabbit, stewed, 52
210
Raspberry
syrup,
Ravioli, 10
Rice, cakes, 27
meal
pudding, 201
"
pancakes, 70
"
pudding with giblets,
"

tart, 199
with
"

"
"

Milanaise,
with

chicken

22

giblets,

peas,

with

23
23

24

saffron,

26

24

...

93

128

Rolls, stuffed,
Roman
fry, 68,
Sabayon, 208

caper,

for

green,
"

41

"

70
ce,
sau-

117
119
...

51

65

meat,

52

raspberry,

14

Tongue,

43
"

44

113
114

Tripe
Trout,

"

"

"

10
12
9

159

sauce,

"

gravy,

139

65
111

109
109
63
120

174

Turkey, 145
Tutti frutti,ice, 221
Veal, breast, 80

139
128

...

82

Alpine,
fried, 176
175
Lombard,
with
anchovies,

129

14
82
108

12

stuffed, 110
boiled, 154
stewed, 156
with olives, 155

with

148

146

'

46

149

148

210

currant, 209

Tomato

15
110

150

orgeat, 213
red

118
118

43

14
45

white, 54
"
yellow, 55
Sausages with corn meal, 163
with onions, 164
Soup, bean, 7
"
bread, 7
"
cappelletti,2
"
lentils,8
"
Pavese, 11
"
Queen, 6

egg

45

46

"

71
...

Tart, curly, 188

farina, 200
'
Mantona, 187
'
rice, 199
Tenderloin, with Marsala, 85
"
with
spices, 158

15

Genovese, 58
tomato, 12

94

13
Sugo di carne,
Sweet-breads, 157
Syrup, hard blackberry, 212
'
lemon, 211

'

53

57

170

"

146

106

154

French, 173
Milanaise, 172
"
Southern, 171
Stuffing, chicken, 64

'

fish, 56

69
149

"

54-55

57

28

71

Stufato,

69

broiled

"

with

'

50

40

saute, 92

32

Sauce, anchovy, 13
"
balsamella, 59
"
brown
stock, 12
"

Strauberry, ice, 218

String beans in mold,

38

game,

39

Steak in the saucepan,

Stewed
cutlets, 73

22

with

39

47

93

22

...

84

timbale, 49
(See Pigeons)
Squash, fried, 32
"
stuffed, 91

55

24

lobster, 25

of

25

13-17

"

140

26

with

Roast-beef,

Salmi

11

139

saffron,

23
"

148

66

87

Risotto

42

5
8

"

stewed,

205

"

stock, 1
vegetables, 5
Spaghetti, 11-15
(see Macaroni)
Spinach, side-dish, 113
Squabs, ragout, 48

almonds,

roasted

"

Soup

121
121

177

121
104
155
62

INDEX,

continued

Page

Veal
"

cutlets, 75
kidney with

Page

68

"

anchovy,

150

107

"

liver, 161

113

"

fried,

"

in gravy,

113
63

"

kidney

162

83

sliced, 151

Veal, roast, 129

"

stewed, 39

Veal

with
with

Vegetable

Whiting
117

94

Zabaione,
Zucchine,

32

160

62

chowder,

68

10

11

134

biscuits, 194

107
...

90

tunny,
soup,

Wafer

81

gravy,

with

anchovy

ce,
sau-

87
208
32

146
28

University
REGIONAL

SOUTHERN
405

Avenue,

Hilgard
Return

from

JAN

California

of

this
which

LIBRARY
CA

Angeles,

Los

material
it

to
was

FACILITY

the

borrowed.

90024-1388

library

000527381