TLM - The Travel & Leisure Magazine May 2010

OFC-TLmayjune10v3:Layout 1 21/5/10 19:30 Page 1
tlm
May/June 2010 £2.50
tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine
the travel & leisure magazine
GREEK IDYLLS
Exploring Greece’s islands
HELPING HANDS
Voluntourism holidays
OCEAN COLOUR SCENE

America’s Pacific Northwest
DUTCH MASTER
Amsterdam
SCILLY LOVE SONG

Passionate about the Scilly Isles
GOING SOLO win

May/June 2010
r
cam era in ou
Cruising for singles a Leica to contest, a
fab pho otel break
£650 h ore…
PLUS &m
London’s nature, golfing in
Northern France and regular features
02TLapr-may10 21/5/10 22:14 Page 1
contentsTLmayjune10v1- all lower case:T&L 24/5/10 07:58 Page 3
tlm
■ Santorini at sunset: see Greek
Islands feature, page 6
the travel and leisure magazine
from the
editor
Monarch Holidays
Peter Ellegard
S
pring has not been kind to
contents
travellers, with the Icelandic
volcano and British Airways
strikes hitting the travel plans of
many. However, every cloud has
a silver lining.The weather at
home finally cheered up after
4 in the frame picture gallery the long, cold winter – bringing
6 getting to know the Greek Islands some much-welcomed sunshine.
While the ash cloud threat has
15 escape to Amsterdam not gone away, hopefully
21 in your flightbag what to take on the flight governments and airlines can
WIN – a vintage men’s black leather travel grooming set worth £65 minimise its impact, allowing
22 in your suitcase what to pack for your holiday those taking summer holidays to
WIN – one of three Milatex lightweight jackets worth £49.95 each enjoy their hard-earned escape,
WIN – one of four pairs of Bugsox Adventure socks, worth £14.99 each pair worry-free.
25 let’s try voluntourism holidays If you haven’t made plans yet,
or are looking ahead to next
30 photography competition WIN – a £565 Leica camera and case in our year, the features in this issue
fantastic summer-long photography competition should give you plenty of
33 travel update travel news inspiration. Our main focus is on
the Greek Islands, a bargain for
36 all aboard cruising for single passengers + cruise news
holidaymakers this year as a
42 off the beaten track America’s Pacific Northwest result of the country’s economic
WIN – three pairs of CityPass attraction ticket passes for Seattle worth $59 each woes.
49 pack your clubs Northern France Amsterdam is under the
spotlight for city breaks, while
55 competition WIN – a £650 hotel stay with Four Pillars Hotels
America’s spectacular Pacific
READER OFFER – enjoy a Four Pillars spring break from just £39 pppn
Northwest is highlighted in our
57 on your doorstep the Scilly Isles Off the Beaten Track slot.
62 london life nature in the capital + London news For those planning a
WIN – a Daddy’s Girl father and daughter spa treatment for Father’s Day worth £90 staycation, we look at life in the
slow lane with a focus on the
66 coming next what’s in store in the next issue Scilly Isles. If you fancy taking a
travel tech gizmos and gadgets to take away holiday to help others, we lift the
WIN – a £300 sWaP watchphone lid on voluntourism holidays.
67 best for hotel review – Thoresby Hall in Robin Hood country Cruises for single passengers,
golf in northern France and
70 out & about what’s on outside London London’s natural attractions
round off the issue, together
with our regular sections.
EDITORIAL TEAM: Editor Peter Ellegard Editorial assistant Julie Thompson Writers Peter Ellegard, Julie Thompson, Dave Richardson,
Sara Macefield,Victoria Trott, Debbie Ward and Jane Anderson Design Nick Blaxill Advertising Team Terry Stafford and Nick Page
As usual, we have a wealth of
Production June Barnard Publisher Terry Stafford Digital Publisher Peter Lewsey Published bi-monthly by TLM Media Limited prizes to win – including a Leica
Castle Court, 41 London Road, Reigate, Surrey RH2 9RJ Tel: 01737 735575 Fax: 01737 735001 Email: info@tlm-magazine.co.uk camera in our exciting new
The publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions. Whilst every care is taken, all material submitted to TLM Media Limited is done so at
Printed by BGP © TLM Media Limited
photography competition.You
its owner’s risk and neither TLM Media Limited nor its agents can accept any liability for loss or damage. TLM Media Limited is a completely independent have all summer to take and
company and can hold no responsibility for the actions of outside agents. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior written consent. All
private advertisers are totally responsible for their own wording within their advertisement, and TLM Media Limited can therefore take no responsibility as submit pictures.
to their content. Please seek legal advice and thereafter verify all the details of your purchase in writing before proceeding. Happy snapping.
Front cover photo: Carpe Diem, Pyrgos, Santorini – © Carpe Diem/Leonardo Mediabank
May/June 2010 tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine 3

FrameTLmayjune10v1pp4:T&L 22/5/10 06:33 Page 4
in the frame ■ picture gallery
■ Morning in paradise:
Wailea, on Maui, Hawaii
Molly Schoneveld
Get in the frame

Your photos can WIN you a Leica camera – and give you a showcase on tlm
T
hese evocative images
were taken on the latest
model unveiled by
legendary camera maker
Leica, a digital compact
camera with a built-in
GPS tagging and a powerful 12x
zoom lens – the V-Lux 20. See
pages 30-31 for details on how you
can win your very own V-Lux 20
in our exclusive summer-long
photography competition, in ■ Harbour in County
Leica
Waterford, Ireland
association with Leica.
We will also be showcasing
some of the best entries in
forthcoming issues as well as on
the tlm website, in a special
gallery section of our Readers
Area.
If you do not want to enter the
competition but would still like to
submit photographs for
Molly Schoneveld
consideration for the gallery, visit

www.tlm-magazine.co.uk,
■ Fishing boat in ■ Epitome of happiness: hammock
and click on the In the Frame County Waterford at Kapalua, Maui, Hawaii
Leica
button in the Readers Area.
4 tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine May/June 2010

05TLmay-jun10 22/5/10 10:46 Page 1
GreeceTLmay10v1pp06-12:T&L 22/5/10 06:42 Page 6
getting to know ■ the greek islands
Greek
odyssey
Many of the Greek islands have become household names, thanks to films,TV series and their
popularity as holiday destinations. But choose the wrong island or resort, and you could end up
with more – or less – than you bargained for. Dave Richardson goes island hopping to sort
out the Cyclades from the Dodecanese...
I
t was one of the most perfect days I can remem- films are one of the reasons us Brits have fallen in love
ber. We were staying in the little resort of Fiskardo with the Greek islands.
on the northern tip of Kefalonia, largest of the Shirley Valentine (made in 1989) is probably the best-
Ionian Islands but little visited. We drove down to known, the tale of a bored housewife (Pauline Collins)
Assos for lunch – a sleepy little village overlooked who falls in love with taverna owner Costas (the roguish
by a Venetian fortress dating from 1590. We Tom Conti) on a holiday fling in Mykonos. More
thought of climbing it but didn’t bother. Lunch was slow recently, we’ve had the film version of Mamma Mia!
in arriving, but by now we had realised no-one is in a which was shot in Skopelos and Skiathos.
hurry in Kefalonia. There have been notable TV series too including The
We drove back in late afternoon and down a steep Lotus Eaters and Who Pays the Ferryman?, both set in
track to the beach at Myrtos, possibly the most beautiful Crete. Whether it’s Kefalonia or Mykonos, Skopelos or
in Greece and probably the most photographed. We Santorini, the appeal of the Greek islands is essentially
were back in Fiskardo in time for sunset, which we the same.
Photo: MSC Cruises
watched over dinner on the terrace of an arty hotel. You’ll have a laid-back holiday in the sun far from
By my standards we had seen virtually nothing, but the cares of the world, dragging yourself just a few
relaxed a great deal. We wanted to see Myrtos beach yards away from the beach to enjoy freshly caught fish
because it’s in the film, Captain Corelli’s Mandolin, and washed down with local wine at a taverna, while the son
■ Santorini


of Costas (and Shirley?) serenades you with a bouzouki.

■ Lemons at Lindos, on Rhodes
Let’s hope he leaves the signature tune from Zorba the
Greek until the end, when you’ll be too drunk to dance.
did you know? That appeal is as strong today as ever, but the smile
on the waiter’s face might just be more of a grimace.
● Lemnos, also known as Lesbos, was birthplace of The average Greek has lost 30% of his or her income
the female poet Sappho. It attracts many Lesbian since the country was engulfed by financial crisis, and
visitors, much to the chagrin of the Orthodox the tourism industry was already suffering as holiday-
Sunvil
community. ■ Corfu town makers decamped to Turkey or Egypt to avoid high
● Kos is claimed to be the birthplace of Hippocrates, father of medicine, prices in the eurozone.
who lived around 400 BC.You can still see the plane tree where he is But tour operators report that prices are down this
said to have lectured. year as Greece tries to be more competitive, and you
● Greece has more than 6,000 islands and islets in all, the largest being can also expect meals, drinks and other holiday expens-
Crete, at 3,219 square miles. Less than 230 of them are inhabited. es to be a little less. The Post Office Holiday Costs
● Corfu has had a chequered history. Ruled by Rome for over 550 years Barometer for 2009 found that a “basket” of typical hol-
and part of Byzantium for over 750 years, it was then ruled by the iday purchases cost £63.42 in Greece compared to
Venetians for 400 years until Napoleon claimed it for France – prior to £75.21 in Turkey, and Greece might come out even bet-
Russian and then English occupation, in 1815. It became part of the new ter this year.
Greek state in 1864. Hotels and other businesses are functioning normally,
● Money is said to have been invented in the Greek islands, with the first but there is a risk of sudden strikes affecting transport.
coins minted on Aegina as early as 700 BC. Visitors should otherwise be unaffected by the crisis,
and if you’re sympathetic you might leave a larger tip.
You can now fly direct to a dozen Greek islands, but
only a few of these are served by low-cost airlines. Tour
operators control most flights so it could be more cost-
effective to buy a package holiday rather than organise it
yourself, especially in high season.
The Greek islands have mainly changed for the bet-
ter, but in some cases for the worse. Many islands now
have a good choice of boutique and luxury hotels, as an
alternative to tourist-class hotels and cheap apartments.
You can still find clean but simple accommodation in
tavernas and village houses, but be prepared to sleep on
the beach if you don’t pre-book.
Roads and airports are generally better too, but some
islands have spoiled the image of Greece by encourag-
ing binge drinking by young British clubbers – some-
times with tragic consequences.
Faliraki in Rhodes might have cleaned up its act, but
Malia in Crete and Laganas in Zante – plus some resorts
in Corfu and Kos – are still infamous. You really would
not want to go there in high season if you’re over 25
(maybe 21!), or you could end up in jail like the stag
party dressed up as nuns in Malia last year.
Fortunately, there are enough islands (and enough
resorts even on the most popular islands) to please
everyone without getting in each other’s way. For me,
though, it will always be Myrtos rather than Mykonos.
the main island groups

ionian islands
This group lies to the west of the Greek mainland, and
the flying time is around three hours compared with
about four hours to islands in the east.
These islands are generally green and easy on the
eye, with great beaches. The most popular is Corfu,
Melenos Lindos
especially for families as it has plenty of good-value

accommodation. Sidari, Dassia, Roda and Benitses are
the main family resorts, while Glyfada and Gouvia

09TLmay-jun10 22/5/10 10:50 Page 1
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love for the
Greek Islands
Alonissos - Andros - Corfu - Crete - Cyprus - Kea - Kefalonia - Lefkas - Lesvos

Milos - Mykonos - Naxos - Paros - Paxos - Santorini - Skiathos - Skopelos - Zante
Over 260 villas, apartments, cottages and family-run hotels

Quiet, beachfront locations for all budgets
Award-winning customer service
Offers and late availablility
2010 brochure available
www.sunisle.co.uk
0844 482 0202
Maxet House, 28 Baldwin Street, Bristol BS1 1NG A fresh approach to the Greek Islands
■ Kefalonia
island hopping
Before direct flights started to more of the islands and
Corfu, Crete and Rhodes were the main gateways,
people used to flock to Athens and then go to the port
of Piraeus for an island-hopping adventure. Piraeus
remains a major port for eastern Greece, but nowadays
it is often more convenient to fly to an island such as
Mykonos or Santorini and carry on from there.
Greece has an ancient seafaring tradition, and you
have a choice of fast ferries or traditional ships on
many routes. Greek Travel Pages (www.gtp.gr) is an
excellent source of information.
From Mykonos the islands of Tinos, Andros, Naxos
and Paros are easily reached by ferry. From Skiathos
you can get to Skopelos, Alonissos and also the
mainland, and from Santorini you can reach Ios. Plan any
trip carefully as an overnight stay may be needed on the
island of arrival.
You can also take a day trip to discover a lesser
known island, but you can’t really soak up the
atmosphere until the day trippers have left. Discover
Monarch Holidays
Symi from Rhodes, Ithaca from Kefalonia or Meganissi
from Lefkas.
■ Background image: Sani Resort Beach. (Planet Holidays)
islands with history

The most renowned archaeological sites might be on the Greek mainland, but
there can be a cultural aspect to your holiday on some of the islands.
Crete is the top choice, as the palaces of the Minoan civilisation were built 3,500
years ago and form part of one of the world’s greatest archaeological sites.The
Minoans created one of the first great civilisations in the world, lasting from 2600-
1150 BC, with the palace at Knossos near Heraklion being exceptional.
The Minoan civilisation was probably destroyed by the same volcanic eruption
Rhodes Tourism
that wiped out a civilisation in Santorini, which flourished around the same time.
Santorini’s main archaeological site is at Akrotiri, and the island’s fate has linked it
■ Lindos Acropolis, Rhodes
to the legend of Atlantis.
appeal mainly to couples. Kavos is a major clubbing resort, but the island is better known for sailing than
resort, but hasn’t achieved the same notoriety as resorts beach holidays. The tiny private island of Skorpios, just
in Crete or Zante. Corfu Town has some Italianate off Lefkas, was where tycoon Aristotle Onassis married
architecture including Mon Repos, now a museum and the former Jacqueline Kennedy in 1968.
birthplace of Britain’s Prince Philip.
Zante, also known as Zakynthos, has become a lot aegean islands
more popular mainly because the resort of Laganas is Various sub-groups make up the Aegean Islands, which
a top spot for clubbing. Kalamaki, Argassi and tend to be dry and barren with much of their character
Tsilivi are better choices for families. The island is defined by traditional whitewashed houses contrasting
well worth exploring with turtles nesting on its many with the blue of sky and sea.
small coves. The Cyclades are especially barren, but no less beau-
Kefalonia is one of the least-developed islands with tiful because of it. Mykonos has been popular with the
no high-rise buildings allowed. Lassi and Skala have the wealthy and trendy since the 1960s, and was the first
best beaches and appeal mainly to couples. The less vis- “out” – gay – island in Greece. It appeals mainly to
ited north has only small, traditional resorts, such as well-off younger visitors but also to people interested in
Fiskardo. art. Nightlife is renowned but not vulgar, and it has
Lefkas (also known as Lefkada) is linked by bridge some excellent sandy beaches.
to the mainland, making it a good base for exploring the Another island appealing unashamedly to the
mountainous north-west of Greece. Nidri is the main young, beautiful and rich (but not exclusively) is
Monarch Holidays

Ionian Island Holidays

■ Fiskardo, Kefalonia
■ Romantic dinner on Mykonos ■ The old town centre, Rhodes
Rhodes Tourism
Planet Holidays
Santorini. This was the site of a massive volcanic dodecanese islands

eruption around 1500 BC with the sea filling the This group is in the south of the Aegean, and has a dis- “There are
crater and leaving a barren island where vines grow in
the ash. Beaches are mainly of pebbles or dark vol-
tinct character with the main islands being more cos-
mopolitan than the Cyclades. You can make day trips to
enough
canic shingle with Kamari and Perissa being the main nearby Turkey from some islands despite the often islands (and
resorts. Visitors head for the fashionable resort of Oia strained relationship between the two countries.
to enjoy the sunset. Rhodes is a fairly small island but long established enough
Also in the Cyclades are many small islands reach- for upmarket tourism, a reputation it is keen to boost
able only by sea, and generally undeveloped. Naxos is with four new luxury hotels opening this year. It has
resorts even
the largest island in this group, with over 60 miles of
beaches. Paros also has great beaches and appeals to
recovered well from the shock headlines of a few years
ago coming out of the clubbing resort of Faliraki, which
on the most
windsurfers. led some hotels to claim they were not in Faliraki but in popular
The Sporades islands in the northern Aegean include Kalithea just up the coast.
Skiathos, a surprisingly green and fertile island with lots Faliraki and Kalithea have the best beaches but you islands) to
of sandy beaches. Limited flight capacity has saved it can also stretch out at Ixia, Lindos and Pefkos; Lindos
from over-development, and the same applies to nearby being very picturesque because of its hilltop fortress.
please
Skopelos which is reached by sea. Mountainous Samos
is increasingly popular but still has a genuine island
Rhodes Town has a medieval feel with sturdy walls and
the 14th century fortress built by the Knights of St John.
everyone”
feel, as does Lemnos. Kos is a fertile island where all-inclusive hotels are

■ Windsurfing off Rhodes

greek island facts
when to go
Direct flights operate only between May and
October, and most resort hotels are
Monarch Holidays
closed for the rest of the year.
Monarch Holidays
getting there
Direct low-cost or charter flights
operate to Crete (Heraklion and Chania),
being developed. Kardamena is the busiest resort and Rhodes, Kos, Mykonos, Santorini, Skiathos,
■ Kefalonia sunset
popular with clubbers, while Kos Town also has beaches Samos, Lemnos, Corfu, Zante, Kefalonia and
and nightlife. Kefalos and Tingaki are more peaceful Preveza (for Lefkas). Main low-cost airlines are
resorts appealing to couples. easyJet (www.easyjet.com) and Monarch (www.monarch.co.uk).
These and other Islands can also be reached year-
crete round on scheduled flights via Athens, by
Crete is sometimes described as a country in its own Olympic (www.olympicair.com) or Aegean
right because of its size and diversity. The largest and Airlines (http://en.aegeanair.com).
farthest south of the Greek islands, it is more diverse Several cruise lines have itineraries taking
Planet Holidays
than any other island, being popular with walkers and in the Greek islands, including MSC
history lovers as well as the “fly and flop” brigade. Cruises.
The north coast has been developed for mass tourism
with some of the largest hotels in Greece, some offering tour operators
all-inclusive holidays. If you don’t venture beyond your ■ Elounda Gulf A number of specialist tour operators
hotel then you really are missing something, as Crete Villas, Crete feature holidays in the Greek Islands. Ionian
offers intriguing landscapes and plenty of sightseeing Island Holidays specialises in Kefalonia, with seven
with a mountainous interior and many traditional vil- nights at the Karteri Apartments costing from £620 (020 8459 0777,
lages. Samaria Gorge is claimed to be the deepest in www.ionianislandholidays.com). Planet Holidays’ offerings include
Europe with walls over 1,000 feet high. the Thalassa Sea Side Resort & Suites in Kamari, Santorini, from £666
The big resorts are along the north coast and include (0871 871 2234, www.planet-holidays.co.uk). A seven-night holiday at
Malia (now Greece’s biggest clubbing destination), the Amathus Beach Hotel in Rhodes costs £649 with Olympic Holidays
Rethymnon, Hersonissos and Aghios Nikolaos. The cap- (0800 093 3322, www.olympicholidays.com). Hydra is offered by
ital, Heraklion, is an attractive small port city. Sunvil (020 8758 4758, www.sunvil.co.uk) with
Western Crete (including the former capital and seven nights from £808. Major operators
large harbour of Chania) has a distinct atmosphere include direct-sell Monarch Holidays
and strong Venetian influence, with Aghia Marina and (www.monarch.co.uk/holidays) and
Planet Holidays
Platanias being the main resorts nearby. The south- Cosmos (www.cosmos-holidays.co.uk),
west coast is very remote with some villages reach- which sells through travel agents.
able only by boat.
tourist information
Dave Richardson has travelled extensively throughout Greek National Tourism Organisation: tel
Greece and its islands during a travel writing career spanning
020 7495 9300, www.gnto.co.uk.
more than 30 years. He never did like Zorba the Greek,
although he has been known to dance to it.
■ Poros at dusk
islands near athens
If you are visiting Athens and fancy a brief taste of island life, the islands of
the Saronic Gulf are within easy reach for a day trip or longer.
The most charming is Hydra, which has retained its character despite
being only 90 minutes by hydrofoil from the Athens port of Piraeus.
Motor traffic is not allowed in Hydra, with people moving around
mainly by boat but also by donkey. Artists, writers and walkers love
the island, which has a few small beaches reached by water taxi.
Monarch Holiday
Monarch Holidays
Aegina is famous for its pottery and pine forests, and Poros
for its beaches and monastery. Spetses is also traffic-free
with horse-drawn carriages operating around the town.

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14TLmay/jun10 22/5/10 10:56 Page 1
EscapeTLmayjune10v1pp15-18:T&L 22/5/10 07:04 Page 15
escape to ■ amsterdam
Dutch treat
With its quaint canals, flower market, museums, festivals, street cafes and nightlife, Amsterdam is a
city worth lingering over – and one which is aiming to weed out its notorious cannabis
coffeeshops and put its red light district in the shade, as Victoria Trott reports
“I
f you only have a short time in Amsterdam became one of the world’s most important
Amsterdam,” said our guide, “this is the ports, as well as a centre for diamonds and finance, in
place to come to experience its essence.” the 17th century; in fact, the world’s first stock exchange
I was standing on the stone bridge over the was founded here in 1602.
Singel canal that links tacky-touristy Mee in Mokum (www.meeinmokum.nl) is the
Nieuwendijk in the Old Centre with west- name of a group of English-speaking residents who lead
bound Haarlemmerstraat, a long street of three-storey guided two-hour tours around Amsterdam for a very
gabled brownstones known for its eclectic range of reasonable 5 euros. Along with some other English
shops and bars. tourists, I’d met our guide Jan, a retired librarian, in the
In front of me was a tulip stall, behind me was a her- cafe at the Amsterdams Historisch Museum
ring stall, to my left was a cheese stall and I could see a (www.ahm.nl), which takes visitors through 800 years
■ Canal tour coffeeshop with a mural of cannabis leaves in the win- of the city’s fascinating history and where you’ll learn
dow and a bar advertising Heineken beer. On cue, two how the city got its name.
All pictures: Amsterdam Tourism
& Congress Bureau cyclists hurtled past and almost knocked me over, ring-
ing their bells manically. Welcome to Mokum. museums
Mokum is a nickname for the Dutch capital and The Historisch Museum is one of
derives from the Yiddish word meaning “safe haven”. more than 50 museums in
Jews from across Europe began moving to Amsterdam, ranging from big guns
Amsterdam from the 15th century, as the city such as the Van Gogh Museum
was known for its religious tolerance. It’s (www.vangoghmuseum.nl) and
mainly thanks to the Jewish immigrants, the recently-opened
many of whom were successful mer- Hermitage
chants and traders, that (www.hermitage.nl),

■ The History Museum
■ Oude Kerk
which portrays Russian history and culture, to smaller,

10 things to do in amsterdam specialist museums such as the Museum of Bags and
Purses (www.tassenmuseum.nl) and the Amstelkring,
● Enjoy a free tour of Gassan Diamonds’ factory a Catholic church hidden in the attic of a 17th-century
(www.gassandiamonds.nl). home on canal street Oudezijds Voorburgwarl.
● Explore the atmospheric Jordaan district (www.jordaaninfo.nl). The city’s oldest church, and indeed oldest building,
● Take the family to Artis Zoo (www.artis.nl). is 14th-century Oude Kerk (www.oudekerk.nl) in the
● Admire the view from the 23rd-floor bar of Hotel Okura heart of the Red Light District. As well as a few bars
(www.okura.nl). and an infants’ school, the church square is dotted with
● Tiptoe through the tulip fields in Keukenhof from mid-March to mid- floor-to-ceiling windows showcasing immigrant prosti-
May (www.keukenhof.nl). tutes in their underwear. But not for much longer.
● Watch a film at the Art Deco Pathé Tuschinski cinema Jan explained: “The council launched a project a
(www.pathe.nl). couple of years ago to clean up this area by buying
● Explore the city or surrounding countryside on a bike tour properties that are rented to prostitutes, as many of these
(www.mikesbiketours.com). ‘businesses’ are fronts for money laundering. The prem-
● Scoff and sightsee at the same time on the Pancake Boat. ises are being rented to bars, restaurants and boutiques.
● Catch a gig, exhibition or DJ set at Melkweg (www.melkweg.nl). The aim is to reduce the Red Light District to a couple
● Savour a lakeside picnic in Vondelpark. of streets, although some people argue that this will
destroy Amsterdam’s character.”
Where there’s sex for sale there’s usually drugs and you
■ A flower market won’t go far in Amsterdam without seeing (and smelling)
a coffeeshop, which isn’t the place to go for a drink. The

■ Queen’s Day
coffeeshops have been selling cannabis since the 1970s

but they, too, haven’t escaped the council’s clean-up proj-
ect and plans are afoot to get rid of about 25. One of the
most popular with visiting Brits and celebrities, and known
for its potent offerings and funky interior, is Cannabis Cup
winner Greenhouse (www.greenhouse.org)
■ Museum Van Loon
canal belt
The most attractive part of Amsterdam is, without doubt,
the canal belt. The canals, lined with beautiful mansions,
were built in the 17th-century – the Golden Age – to pro-
vide housing for the wealthy merchants. To see what one
of these houses was like in its heyday, head to the
the main events
Museum Van Loon (www.museumvanloon.nl), which Amsterdam has a varied year-long events calendar.The main date is Queen’s
was home to the founder of the Dutch East India Day on April 30, when thousands of people dressed in orange descend upon
Company. the capital to celebrate the Queen’s birthday while watching a rock concert in
The western canal belt is a great place for shop- Museumplein, enjoying traditional music and dancing in the Jordaan district or
ping as it’s here that you’ll find the Nine Streets, a wandering around the open-air market. Holland Festival is a multi-arts festival
fashionable area crammed with designer boutiques, that takes place across the city throughout June and Grachtenfestival in the
delis and cafe-bars. De Kaaskamer (address: canal belt caters for lovers of classical music in August.
Runstraat 7) has more than 200 types of cheese
while Frozen Fountain (Prinsengracht 645) is the

■ Cyclists in Amsterdam
amsterdam facts
when to go ■ Architecture
Amsterdam is a great place to visit at any
time of year but winters tend to be cold
and wet. Come in spring to see the tulips
or autumn to avoid the crowds. Be sure
to book well in advance if you visit in high
summer.
getting there
Several airlines fly from London to Amsterdam so
check out www.skyscanner.net for the best deals. By train from
London takes 4 hours 16 minutes; a standard return fare starts at £116
from www.raileurope.co.uk.Take the car by ferry from Harwich to
the Hook of Holland; single fares start at £49 from
www.stenaline.co.uk.
accommodation
For a luxury break try The Dylan (www.dylanamsterdam.com) or
place to go for contemporary Dutch home deco. rent a houseboat (www.houseboathotel.nl) for independence.
Lunchtime beckoned and we stopped at De Prins Stayokay Amsterdam Zeeburg (www.stayokay.com) is great modern
(Prinsengracht 124), one of Amsterdam’s “brown hostel for families on a budget. Lastminute.com has good deals on
cafes”, so-called because of the years of accumulated upmarket accommodation in its ‘top secret’ hotels section.
smoke stains on the walls – although these day public
places are no-smoking zones. Jan informed me that this tour operators
was one of the best cafes to sample good-value Dutch Thomson (www.thomson.co.uk), Co-operative Travel
cooking and we ordered some traditional meat and pota- (www.co-operativetravel.co.uk) and My Amsterdam
to croquettes followed by a great big slab of apple tart. (www.myamsterdam.co.uk) offer short breaks by air.You can book
Put off by the queue outside Anne Frank House – train travel plus accommodation with Eurostar (www.eurostar.com).
the preserved home of the young Jewish wartime Superbreak (www.superbreak.co.uk) offers city breaks in Amsterdam
diarist who wrote about her family’s persecution by the with extras including an attraction pass, but transport is not included.
Nazis; best to get there early – we headed to the Tulip
Museum (www.amsterdamtulipmuseum.com) a getting around
few doors along from De Prins. The first tulips in The best way to see Amsterdam is on foot. A
Holland were grown in the Hortus Botanicus ■ Street cafe good way to admire the architecture is from
(www.hortus-botanicus.nl), the world’s oldest botan- a canal boat; I like Holland International
ical gardens, in the Plantage district. The flowers bloom (www.hir.nl). Make like the locals and
in April and May and if you’re in town at that time the hire a bike – but keep your wits about
Bloemenmarkt (between Muntplein and Koningsplein), you.Trams, buses and the metro will take
the world’s only floating flower market, is the place to you across town – a two-day travel card
go to see colourful displays. If not, buy some bulbs to costs €11.50. Amsterdam’s taxis are
take home. unregulated so make sure you agree a fare
with the driver before getting in. Aim to use
nightlife TCA, the city’s biggest taxi firm.
Amsterdam is culturally rich and there’s no shortage of
nightlife to cater for all tastes, whether you’re looking tourist information
for a hip gay bar, karaoke, English-language comedy, Amsterdam Tourism Board: www.iamsterdam.com
live music or a cosy corner to sip a jenever (Dutch gin), Netherlands Board of Tourism: www.holland.com
such as legendary Wynand Fockink
(www.wynand-fockink.nl), a 17th-century tasting
room with an interior graced by the likes of Churchill and “There is so Muziekgebouw and marvelling at the child-friendly
Chagall. But I was exhausted and caught the free shuttle NEMO science museum which resembles a big, green
bus from Centraal Station back to Hotel Mövenpick
much more to sinking boat, I was reminded that there is so much more
(www.moevenpick-amsterdam.com), next to the ferry this vibrant to this vibrant city than its sleazy reputation; it deserves
terminal in the regenerated eastern waterfront. more than a fleeting visit.
Gazing out of my window on the 18th floor, watch- city than its
ing the free ferries cross the River IJ to the residential
islands, envying the music fans getting ready for a
sleazy Freelance travel writer Victoria Trott still likes Amsterdam
even though on her first visit as a student, the bus broke
classical/jazz/world music concert at the futuristic reputation” down four times and it took 24 hours to get there.

09TLapr-mar10 23/3/10 12:15 Page 1
20TLmar-apr10 22/5/10 11:14 Page 1

BagsTLmay10v1pp21-22:T&L 21/5/10 18:17 Page 21
in your ■ flightbag
Vintage Dads
s Father’s Day approaches, a new
A online vintage store has some

high-quality designer goodies,
ideally suited for travel and excellent
presents for the special man in your life.
Lalita’s first-rate accessories are amaz-
ing value and by buying second hand,
you are not only reducing your carbon
footprint, but also you will have some-
thing that is built to last. Featured high-
lights include a vintage Italian leather
wallet for only £20, and a vintage
leather-cased gentleman’s travel set for
only £35. Ladies’ accessories include a
range of retro purses and handbags.
● You can WIN a gorgeous vintage
black leather travel set comprising a and click on the competitions and give-
brush, comb, mirror, toothbrush, razor
and two toiletries cases, a vintage black
grained leather wallet and a vintage silk
aways button. Terms and conditions
apply. Closing date June 30, 2010.
For more information on the great
In the bag
tie in black, grey and silver design, worth range of gifts available from Lalita, go to Want the man in your life to carry the duty free at
£65. Go to www.tlm-magazine.co.uk www.lalita.co.uk. the airport or the souvenirs in resort? As Father’s
Day rolls around, why not treat him to a Man Bag
from a new range launched by online store,Twisted
Stick also has a slight Twee.These tough canvas shopping bags, with slogans
Pick-me-up sticks tint for evening out your
complexion; it can be
such as “Whatever I Get, It Will Be Wrong” are
designed to cheer up even the most disgruntled male
Flying can be an caffeine to used anywhere on the shopper.
exhausting experience. wake up the face, under eyes, or on Costing £10 each, go to www.twistedtwee.co.uk
Flight Stick from skin. Flight the neck and is for more details and information.
DuWop is a skin- conveniently packaged in
enhancing, hydrating a roll-up cylinder – ideal
stick designed as an
instant pick-me-up.
for applying on landing!
Costing £23, Flight Stick
Lip smacking
It contains antioxidants is available online from A new range of vitamin-E enhanced lip gloss from
for protection and www.simplebeauty.co.uk Miners is the perfect in-flight treat for your lips – six
hydration, as well as or www.asos.com. ice-cream shades, including Barely Mint and Candy
Love, will keep you refreshed and hydrated
throughout your flight.The sheer shades have a
sweet-smelling
Bright eyes fragrance and have an

innovative slanted wand
for easy, frequent
application.The Sweet
ired eyes and vitamin C and provides a A, C and E, or the Lips range is available
T dehydrated
skin are a haz-
ard of flying, but
refreshing boost to your
skin by spritzing on to
your face as often as
NouriFusion Eye Cream
(£22.60) with aloe and
almond oil. Simply pat
for £2.99 from Miners –
go to
www.miners.co.uk
some new products you like. under and around your for stockist details.
from Herbalife that To help those puffy, eyes when required.
you can pop into tired eyes, choose For stockist details,
your bag can help. from NouriFusion’s call 0845 056 0606 and
The Radiant C Multivitamin Eye Gel for further information on
Face Quencher (£23.20), a lightweight NouriFusion products,
(£6.60) is infused moisturising gel visit their website,
with antioxidant enriched with vitamins www.herbalife.co.uk.

BagsTLmay10v1pp21-22:T&L 21/5/10 18:17 Page 22
in your ■ suitcase
Take cover
Too many shoes... amily-run company Tog 24 has summers, with the Fact (for men) and
The age-old predicament of taking too many shoes on

holiday is no longer a problem with a new
F been making outdoor wear for over
half a century, producing ski and
outdoor wear for all sorts of climates
Diana (for women) both available in a
range of colours. Costing from £49.95, the
jackets are available from Tog 24’s website
interchangeable, slim flip flop from the creators of and conditions. With more than 50 or stores and from other stockists. Go to
SwitchFlops. Designed by Lindsay Phillips, the concept stores across the UK and Ireland, as well www.tog24.com for more information.
of using Velcro to create one shoe with many straps is as a comprehensive online store, Tog 24 ● You can WIN one of three Milatex
a brilliant, space-saving idea and the new Jordi range has a vast range of outdoor clothing and jackets from Tog 24, worth a total of
with a signature rhinestone strap, lets you choose equipment including summer waterproof almost £150. For your chance to win a
from over 36 designs in six colours to create many jackets, fleeces, technical tops and Fact or Diana jacket, go to
different looks with snap-on, snap-off ease.The snaps t-shirts, and walking trousers. www.tlm-magazine.co.uk and click on
can also be worn with the Liz Ballet Flat and the Evie Its Milatex lightweight jackets are ver- the competitions and giveaways button.
Espadrille in the range, so not enough shoes need satile and packable waterproof jackets Terms and conditions apply. Closing date
never be a dilemma again.The basic Lulu flat shoe is ideal for unpredictable climates or British June 30, 2010.
available from £19.99 with straps starting from £4.99
from Fenwick Brent Cross and Fenwick Tunbridge
Wells, or online from www.lindsay-phillips.com.
Sock it to those mozzies
Straight ahead ne of the draw- Adventure designed for
When you are short of space, these mini titanium

stylers from Diva Professional (www.divapro.co.uk)
O backs of those
hot, sultry nights
abroad is the dreaded
walking and outdoor pur-
suits. Available in navy
and khaki, they contain
are perfect to pop in your suitcase.With a maximum mosquito. A revolutionary natural bamboo cotton and
heat of 210ºC, and with ultra-hard and mirror-smooth new product from Care include Coolmax, which
titanium plates usually only found on larger stylers, Plus (www.careplus.eu) transports moisture away
the Diva Rebel Minis are an essential. Costing £29.99, can now put paid to those from the skin to keep the
they are multi-voltage for worldwide use with a itchy ankles. foot dry and comfortable.
UK/Europe adaptor plug and are available in pink croc Bugsox are impregnat- ● WIN one of four pairs
or purple snake finish from leading hair salons and ed with HealthGuard Vital of Bugsox Adventure
Sally Salon Services stores nationwide. Call 0870 0500 Protection, a unique socks, worth £14.99 each
868 for details of your nearest store. insect-resistant product and pair. Just go to
which has shown in tests lower leg, www.tlm-
that it is 90% effective these Bugsox are a magazine.co.uk and click
against blood-sucking travel essential. on the competitions and
insects. Since certain They are available in giveaways button. Terms
types of malaria mosquito two types, City and and conditions apply.
are attracted to the feet Adventure, with the Closing date June 30, 2010.

23TLmay-jun10 22/5/10 11:09 Page 1

41TLmar-apr10 26/3/10 19:17 Page 1
Let'sTryTlmayjun10v1pp25-28:T&L 22/5/10 06:54 Page 25
let’s try ■ voluntourism
All in a
good cause
Taking a holiday to help others or the
environment is becoming increasingly
popular. Seasoned volunteer
Debbie Ward looks at the
phenomenon of voluntourism and
offers an insight into options available
for those who want to give up their
vacation time for a good cause
I
n a park in Moldova a group of teenage boys once
asked me for my autograph. They hadn’t mistaken
me for a film star, I was simply the first Westerner
they’d ever met. Working with textbooks still full
of Communist propaganda, I taught English in the
country for two months shortly after it gained
independence from the Soviet Union. I shared trolley
buses with boxes of live chicks, I even learned how to
make moonshine vodka, but it was the warmth of the
welcome I received that made a lasting impact. Twenty
years on, Natasha, the then schoolgirl whose family
hosted me, works for the British Embassy and is
among my best friends. She stayed with me in London
just three months ago.
Such cultural experiences were once the preserve of
recent graduates on gap years or career-breakers making
a long term commitment with Voluntary Service
Overseas (VSO). These opportunities have crept square-
ly into mainstream, however, with many companies now
catering for our increased appetite for so-called “volun-
tourism” – undertaking community or conservation
work while on a short or extended vacation.
awareness
“I think the tsunami was a factor, combined with a
growing awareness of global issues and wanting to learn
about and actively engage with other cultures,” says
Hands Up Holidays
Hands Up Holidays founder Christopher Hill.

“Volunteering as part of a vacation can help provide a
connection with community, and meaning and purpose.” ■ Volunteering with kids
Hands Up offers a wide range of voluntary work

combined with sightseeing and relaxation. Its most pop-

ular destinations include India – known for both fabu-
lous sites and extreme poverty – and Kenya, where a
safari can be combined with helping Masai community
projects including one supporting girls fleeing from
female circumcision.
Another voluntourism specialist, Gap Year for
Grown Ups, was, as the name suggests, set up in
response to the expanding demographic seeking such
experiences. Its customers range from late twenties to
early seventies with 35 to 45 the most common age
bracket. A massive 80% are women. “I think women
are braver, I really do!” says e-commerce and market-
ing manager Natasha Owen.
Career breakers, those on work-approved sabbaticals
and the retired, typically take part in longer placements
but 40% of the company’s volunteers spend just two to
four weeks overseas. On its top-selling Thailand
Explorer tour, those with as little as a month to spare
can mix cultural and beach attractions with teaching,
farming or working with elephant mahouts.
shorter options
The good news for would-be volunteers restricted to
Tribewanted
■ Tribal launch ceremony, Fiji annual leave is there’s a growing range of shorter options
as regular tour operators already involved in community-
based tourism get in on the voluntourism act.
new tribe wanted Turtle conservation in Latin America and rice har-
vesting alongside locals in Thailand are among the
experiences offered by The Adventure Company, which
Voluntourism project Tribewanted, which was the subject of a BBC documentary last year began offering a few days volunteering within
series, is set to gain a sister project. tours in eight different countries. “Feedback from our
The original Tribewanted was launched in 2006 as an online “tribe” which also customers suggests they are keen to be more proactively
let the public join a real-world tribe on Vorovoro island, off the coast of Fiji, with involved,” explains product director Nicola McFarlane.
the aim of helping to build a sustainable community on the island. “Our new Hands On Adventures bridge the gap between
It invested £650,000 into the local northern Fiji economy in its first three years, voluntourism trips and holidays that simply provide
built an island village, generated 20 full-time local jobs and fundraising for four financial support to worthwhile causes.”
villages, and more than 1,100 international volunteers have visited Vorovoro since Overland tour specialists Dragoman and Acacia
September 2006, staying for an average two weeks. Adventure Holidays are among others arranging volun-
Now Tribewanted2 has been launched, with a project based in Sierra Leone teering. Dragoman offers community building and
from October, helping to create an eco village community to support local teaching projects in Thailand, Ghana, Peru and Kenya
sustainable development. Volunteers will be able to take part for less than £300 for two to six weeks duration while Acacia includes
per week, excluding flights.The cost will cover meals and accommodation, plus a conservation work within selected African tours of a
contribution to community development. fortnight or shorter.
For more information, go to www.tribewanted.com. Projects Abroad, the leading global organiser of over-
seas volunteer work placements, offers two-week spe-
■ Making cials for 16-19 year olds. Prices, excluding flights, start
tribal friends at £995 for projects including care and community work
in Ethiopia, Ghana,
Jamaica and
Senegal
as well as
several
other des-
tinations.
Conservation
projects, costing
from £1,195, take
Tribewanted
■ A bear in the in Mexico,

Tatras mountains Peru,
The Adventure Company

■ A volunteer and
children in Senegal
Projects Abroad
community
volunteering ideas ● Short on time? Spend two days in a
Here are some voluntourism options to give luxury Marrakech riad then two days
you inspiration: helping build a school in a Berber village
on a £550 (excluding flights) ‘Moroccan
conservation Moments’ long weekend with Hands Up
● Work alongside rangers and researchers Holidays.
to track bears in the Tatras mountains of ● Make your home among giant tortoises
Poland and Slovakia (from £1,329) or and blue-footed boobies when you
take your over-fives to help tag turtles teach local school children in the
and hide them from poachers in Costa Galapagos Islands with Gap Year for
Rica (from £2,219 adults, £2,059 children) Grown Ups. Six weeks costs £1,479,
with The Adventure Company. excluding flights and a $110 national

● Spend two or more days helping care for park fee. (Knowledge of Spanish
endangered cheetah, hyena and vultures required).
at a conservation project in South Africa ● Want to volunteer as a group? Help
during various nine to 16 day Acacia ■ Monkeying around build houses for victims of Agent
tours.The 16-day Cheetah Chobe and Vic Orange in Vietnam on a placement
Falls Combo with eight days volunteering survey Koala habitats in Queensland arranged by Qantas Holidays in
costs £1,100, excluding flights, plus a $160 when you assist Australian charities on conjunction with Buffalo Tours. A group
local payment. placements arranged through i-to-i.Trips of six to eight people pay £288 each,
● Help weed around Uluru, build cost from £449 for two weeks, £140 a excluding flights, plus a £3,085 donation
boardwalks in Tasmanian wetlands or week thereafter excluding flights. for house build costs.

voluntourism facts
dedicated volunteering companies
BUNAC: 020 7251 3472, www.bunacvolunteer.org
Gap Year for Grown-Ups: 01892 701881,
www.gapyearforgrownups.co.uk

Hands Up Holidays: 020 7193 1062, www.handsupholidays.com
i-to-i Travel: 0800 011 1156, www.i-to-i.com
VSO: 020 8780 7500, www.vso.org.uk
Projects Abroad: 01903 708300, www.projects-abroad.co.uk
■ Children can also get involved
tour operators with volunteering options
Acacia Adventure Holidays: 020 7706 4700,
South Africa and Botswana, and Thailand. Other place- www.acacia-africa.com
ments cover teaching, sports, human rights, and medi- The Adventure Company: 0845 450 5316,
cine and healthcare. www.adventurecompany.co.uk
Projects Abroad
Dragoman: 01728 861133,
hotel guests www.dragoman.com
Short-term charity work can sometimes also be Qantas Holidays/Buffalo Tours: 020
arranged through community-minded hotels. Aditya, a 8222 9125,
new luxury boutique resort near Galle in Sri Lanka, for www.qantasholidays.co.uk and
instance, encourages guests to share professional www.educationaltravelasia.com ■ Excavating a Saxon
grave in Romania
expertise or help teach English, sport or sewing at a
local project for tsunami-affected families. other contacts
But can a few days really help? Hands Up’s Aditya: 020 8715 5513 and +94 11 2587760,
Christopher Hill, who’s happy to tailor-make trips of info@aditya-resort.com, www.aditya-resort.com
any duration, believes it can, claiming: “Longer trips British Trust for Conservation Volunteers: 01302 388883,
tend to be more impactful but, when structured well, www.btcv.org.uk
short-term volunteering can make a difference, especial- Coral Cay Conservation Expeditions: 020 7620 1411,
ly as enthusiasm levels are high.” He says orphanage www.coralcay.org
children gain more quality time with their care-givers National Trust: 0844 800 3099, www.nationaltrust.org.uk/volunteering
when volunteers are helping cook, clean and wash-up
while a house for an impoverished family can be built
in four to six days. “Several in the experience. Owen says: “Volunteering holidays
Not only is voluntourism now possible around work are much more about giving something back and it’s a
commitments, having a family should not be a bar, as companies self achievement to demonstrate you’ve improved some-
several companies encourage children to get involved in encourage one’s life over that period or just to see a smile on a
suitable projects. Hands Up suggests families try animal child’s face in an orphanage.”
experiences, or child-centred projects where visiting children to get
kids can mingle with the local youngsters while parents involved in Debbie Ward, a travel journalist for 12 years, has returned
to Moldova ten times, since her voluntourism experience.
help to renovate or teach.
suitable She’s learnt the wedding hanky dance and a smattering of
Romanian but never to love the delicacy ‘meat jelly’.
cost projects”
You may think giving your help would be free but you
should be prepared for a voluntourism trip, with
accommodation and usually food included, to cost at
least as much as a regular holiday. There are extra
voluntourism tips
expenses involved plus many operators make a profit ● Check voluntourism operators’ sustainable tourism credentials to see how
as they would on a regular tour. committed they are to local communities.
“We always get asked the question why am I paying ● Find out how much information you will be given about your project before
to volunteer?” says Gap Year For Grown Ups’ Natasha you go.
Owen. “About 55% of the money is spent locally so cer- ● Ask if you can speak to others who’ve already volunteered.
tainly the local community benefits. Food is brought in ● Find out if there will be a local co-ordinator supporting you and if there are
from local markets and we employ people – there needs emergency procedures in place.
to be a local coordinator there to show you what to do.” ● Ask if you will need a police check.
VSO provides a modest living allowance for its long- ● To give the most benefit, match your strengths – such as DIY, medical or
term volunteers but the most likely route to actually languages skills or experience with children – to relevant projects.
being paid for meaningful work overseas is if you have ● Factor in some quiet days to readjust afterwards if your volunteering
a Teaching English as a Foreign Language (TEFL) qual- experience is likely to be harrowing.
ification. Most would argue however that the reward is

09TLmar-apr10 23/3/10 14:31 Page 1
LeicaTlmayjun10v1pp30-31:T&L 22/5/10 06:18 Page 30
competition ■ leica camera
■ Fishing boats at Accra, Ghana

Nii Obodai
Would you like a

Leica camera?
Enter our fantastic photography competition – and you
can WIN a new Leica V-Lux 20 worth £495 plus a £70
leather case
T
he name of Leica is a by-word in photogra-
Nasser Kalaji and Laith Majli
phy. Having produced the world’s first 35mm

camera almost a century ago – the original
prototypes were made by German company
Ernst Leitz, using strips of 35mm cinema
film – Leica cameras went on to become ■ Spinning lights, Amman, Jordan
arguably the most revered in the world.
That tradition of excellence continues today, with
models to suit the keen amateur to the serious profes- ing the exact geographical location of pictures to be
sional. Leica’s latest “baby” is the V-Lux 20, a digital recorded. The V-Lux 20 also displays the names of
compact camera which is perfect for travel. sightseeing locations from a database of 500,000 points
A 12.1 effective megapixel camera, it not only fea- of interest in 73 countries.
tures a powerful 12-times magnification zoom lens, it is Now Leica is teaming up with tlm to give readers the
also the first Leica to incorporate GPS tagging – allow- chance to win one of these new marvels in an exclusive

LeicaTlmayjun10v1pp30-31:T&L 22/5/10 06:18 Page 31
competition ■ leica camera
Nii Obodai
■ Ants on a wire
■ Jordan scene
Travel star – the new Leica V-Lux 20

The new, lightweight Leica V-Lux on social networks or map sites
Nasser Kalaji and Laith Majli
20 is a high-performance, 12.1 such as Google Maps or

megapixel compact digital Google Earth, the data
camera with a 12x optical automatically reveals exactly
super-zoom lens and GPS when and where the photos
tagging. were taken.
The integrated Leica DC-Vario-Elmar The V-Lux 20 even allows movie
4.1-49.2mm f/3.3-4.9 ASPH zoom lens recording in HD quality, with intelligent
photographic competition. On offer is a brand new V- has a focal range of 25-300mm (35mm automatic features such as face
Lux 20 and leather case, worth a total of £565. equivalent), making the V-Lux 20 perfect recognition, automatic scene modes and
The theme of the competition is summer holidays. for any photographic situation, from smart exposure in movie mode.
All you have to do is submit your favourite photographs expansive landscapes to detailed close- The bright, sharp three-inch LCD
from your travels this summer. They can be taken any- ups or shots of distant subjects – all display offers precise composition and
where and on any subject, from Britain’s seaside resorts captured in breath-taking quality. framing of shots, as well as accurate
to street life in European cities or the mountains and The V-Lux 20 is the first Leica camera quality control for shots taken.
deserts of far flung destinations. to feature GPS tagging. For anyone Beautifully styled in a matt black
You can submit a portfolio of up to five pictures, or travelling regularly – whether for leisure finish, the V-Lux 20 has been designed
just one or two if you prefer. Your entries will be judged or business – this innovative feature with simple, ergonomic controls and
by a panel from Leica and tlm. We will be looking for automatically records the exact user-friendly menus, and offers fully-
pictures which stand out from the crowd, show originali- geographical location of pictures (in the automatic functions for those who
ty and give a flavour of the destination(s). Exif data of each photo), as well as the prefer to “point and shoot”. A
The deadline is September 15, so you have plenty of local time for every shot, ensuring the complete range of manual shutter
time to get out and get snapping during the summer. user always has a useful and accurate speed and aperture settings also allows
And if you want some inspiration, take a look at some of record of their trip. It can also display for more creative freedom and image
the accompanying images here and in our In the Frame half a million sightseeing spots in 73 control, while integrated image
section on page 4. All were taken on the V-Lux 20. countries. stabilisation reduces the chance of
The built-in GPS feature blurred pictures.The camera
the prize makes archiving and includes Adobe Photoshop
A Leica V-Lux 20 digital compact camera worth £495 organising photos quick Elements 8 for quick and easy
plus a £70 leather case. and easy, during or after a image editing.
trip.When posting images Available now from authorised
how to enter UK Leica dealers including the
For details of how to enter the competition and how to sub- Leica Store Mayfair
mit your photographs, go to www.tlm-magazine.co.uk (020 7629 1351,
and click on the competition & giveaways button. www.leica-storemayfair.co.uk)
Entries will consist of a portfolio of up to a maximum the Leica V-Lux 20 retails at £495,
of five photographs. Only one entry is allowed per per- with an optional brown leather
son and professional photographers are excluded. All case costing £70.
photographs entered must have been taken after May 1,
2010. Closing date is September 15, 2010. The judges’ For technical specifications, go to
decision will be final. See the tlm website for more www.leica-storemayfair.co.uk/news/new-V-LUX20.html.
terms and conditions.

32TLmay-jun10 24/5/10 13:05 Page 1

travelupdateTLmayjune10v1pp33-34:T&L 24/5/10 09:26 Page 33
travel update ■ news
Peter Ellegard reports from US travel show Pow Wow in Orlando
Orlando blooms ■ Hogwarts Castle at

■ New York skyline
InterContinental Hotels & Resorts

arry Potter is
H leading the
charge as US
entertainment capital
Universal Orlando
Orlando continues to
Universal Orlando
expand its offerings.
The boy hero of
British author J K
Rowling’s books and
films is the centrepiece
for a new theme park set themed rides – Harry Ride, Rockit. Brits on the rise
for a grand opening at Potter and the Forbidden Meanwhile, Orlando’s The UK remains the third largest visitor market
Universal Studios Journey, the Flight of the other key players are also to the US, and the top overseas visitor provider,
Orlando on June 18. Hippogriff and Dragon adding attractions. Walt despite a 15% drop in arrivals in 2009 to 3.9
Travel industry profes- Challenge. The castle is Disney World Resort has million, according to figures from the US
sionals from all over the complete with pictures brought back its popular Department of Commerce’s Office of Travel and
world got a sneak pre- that come to life, as in Main Street Electrical Tourism Industries.
view of The Wizarding the films, while Parade for summer 2010 Forecasts for the UK market show numbers
World of Harry Potter Ollivanders wand shop is and plans to open Star steadily rising each year, with the total reaching
during the annual Pow another attraction. Tours II, a 3D ride based almost 4.5m in 2014 – recovering last year’s drop.
Wow tourism show in late The Harry Potter park on the Star Wars films, in New York was the top city for Brits in 2009,
May, and the reaction was forms part of Universal’s 2011. SeaWorld Orlando with just over one million arrivals, followed by
overwhelmingly positive. Islands of Adventure, recently opened its Manta Orlando (830,000) and San Francisco (355,000).
The park features a which features thrill rides thrill ride and sister park Top states were Florida (1.2m), New York (1.1m)
giant Hogwarts Castle such as the Incredible Discovery Cove will and California (624,000).
towering over the park, Hulk, Spiderman, The open a new interactive
through which visitors
take a tour, plus three
Simpsons Ride and the
new Hollywood Rip,
tropical reef attraction in
2011. San Fran plans
San Francisco is undergoing major investment in
tourism and transport facilities, including a
Riding high planned high-speed train link with Los Angeles.

Costing a projected $2 billion and expected to
open in 2017, it will cut the journey time –
trong interest is culture, and more than 300 currently seven hours by road – to 2.5 hours. Its
S expected from
British horse lovers
in the 2010 World
shops selling clothing, tack,
artworks and collectibles.
Among UK operators
famous Fishermen’s Wharf attraction on Pier 39 is
going through major renovations, increasing
pedestrian and cycling areas. Piers 15 and 17 will
Equestrian Games, which featuring the games is be the new home for
take place at the America As You Like It, the hands-on
Kentucky Horse Park in which has a variety of pack- Exploratorium ■ Golden
California Travel & Tourism Commission/Robert Holmes
Gate Bridge
Lexington from ages. A seven-night package, science
September 25. including return flights from museum
The 16-day event is London to Lexington, seven from 2012 in
Kentucky Tourism
claimed to be the biggest days’ economy car hire, a project

equestrian event in seven nights on a room-only costing $175
■ Dressage at the
American history and will Kentucky Horse Park basis at the Inn on million. And a
feature world champi- Broadway and category A new cruise
onships in eight equestrian disciplines: tickets to all the eventing costs from terminal for
dressage, driving, endurance, eventing, £1,810 per person. For details, go to Pier 27 opens in
jumping, para-dressage, reining and www.americaasyoulikeit.com. 2014. Celebrations are
vaulting. It will also include an Equine The games take place from also planned for the 75th anniversary of the
Village with demonstrations, the September 25-October 10. Go to Golden Gate Bridge in 2012.
Kentucky Experience which will show- www.alltechfeigames.com for a full
case the Bluegrass State’s nature and schedule of events.

travelupdateTLmayjune10v1pp33-34:T&L 24/5/10 08:00 Page 34
travel update ■ news
Picture perfect
■ Bungalow Keycamp
nspired by our photography competition in this
at Halkidiki
Greece is I issue? Then consider a photography course in the

Highlands of Scotland or a photographic journey
to China, India or even Ethiopia.
■ Tranquil Loch Ness
the word The Lovat, a Victorian hotel on the shores of

Loch Ness, is offering amateur photographers two
and three-day photography courses in July and
Keycamp has a brand new October. Learn how to adjust exposure and shoot
camp in Halkidiki, Greece, for creative compositions against some of Scotland’s
Nevispix
summer 2010. It features two most beautiful backdrops. The summer two-day
private beaches and three tiny course (July 3-5) starts from £436.50 per person,
islands, ideal for boat trips and including three nights’ accommodation on a dinner,
fishing. Camping Areti combines bed and breakfast basis, while the three-day breaks the beautiful Yunnan region.
traditional Greek charm with in October start from £556 per person for four Searching for Royal Bengal tigers or snapping the
modern-day facilities and seven nights. For more information go to Taj Mahal at sunrise are the highlights of the autumn
nights from June 21 for a family www.thelovat.com. India tour, or you can hone your photographic skills
of four in a bungalow costs Abercrombie & Kent has a series of tours with on the picturesque mist clouds emanating from the
£616, accommodation only. For acclaimed photojournalist Jon Nicolson, with the Blue Nile Falls in Ethiopia in December. Prices start
details of Keycamp’s summer opportunity to create an amazing photographic at £4,450 per person for the India tour including
camping deals, go to record of China, India or Ethiopia. From July 21- flights, transfers, accommodation and guided excur-
www.keycamp.co.uk. 31, the mystical wonders of Tibet are the focus, sions. For more information go to
while a second visit to China in October takes in www.abercrombiekent.co.uk.
Water way
to help South Africa or bust
nce every four years,
O the world either

embraces or escapes the
spectacle that is the World Cup.
■ The World Cup trophy
It may be just around the corner,

but you can still be there.
Thomson Sport has limited, last-
minute availability for a four-
night package incorporating the
BRITA
■ Water boys
England-Slovenia game on June
Thomson Sport
If you have been motivated by 23, as well as packages for the

our feature on voluntourism, final. Prices start at £2,474 per
water filter company BRITA is person. For more information go
planning an expedition to to www.thomsonsport.com.
Nepal in September 2010 to Sportsworld has three-night Hostellerie la Briqueterie.
raise awareness about water packages for the semi-final in In the heart of Champagne’s
issues.The company is looking Cape Town on July 6, for £4,620 vineyards, it includes an exclusive
for eight people to take up per person including flights, Dom Perignon tour, a four-course
what it describes as a once-in- accommodation, and that all- gourmet experience at la
a-lifetime opportunity to visit important match ticket. For more Briqueterie’s Michelin-starred
this remarkable part of the details go to restaurant and a pampering Decleor
world. For more information www.sportsworld.co.uk. spa treatment, costing from £529
on the expedition – which will If escaping the football is para- per person including return Dover
Grape Escapes
be part-paid by BRITA – go to mount, try Grape Escape’s new to Calais ferry crossing and bed
www.Nepal2010@brita.co.uk. Champagne and Spa two-night and breakfast accommodation. Visit
package based at the Relais and www.grapeescapes.net for
Chateaux boutique property, ■ Champagne route more information.

35TLmay-jun10 22/5/10 10:41 Page 1

AllaboardTLmayjunv1pp36-40:T&L 21/5/10 17:43 Page 36
all aboard ■ single cruisers
Fred Olsen Cruise Lines

■ Fred Olsen's four cruise ships
have a number of single cabins
Solo
SAILORS
Single passengers have been largely overlooked by the
cruise industry up to now, often paying hefty supplements to
sail on their own. But, as Sara Macefield reports, cruise
lines are now starting to serenade singletons with dedicated
cabins, sharing options and even male dance hosts
tuck for someone to share a holiday After all, you can experience the unforgettable sights
S
with? Don’t despair. For all those of Australia; join in the revelry of the Rio Carnival; or
Bridget Jones’s out there, cruising witness the exotic wonders of the Far East and, best of
offers the ideal chance for single trav- all, you will have travelling companions to share it with.
ellers to meet like-minded souls in So what’s the catch? The main challenge – and one
social and safe surroundings. Gone are that single travellers regularly face in their travels – is
the days when taking a cruise was joked about as the high cost of having to book accommodation meant
the perfect hunting ground for rich widows looking for two people and paying through the nose for it.
for romance. Very few lines have dedicated single cabins – in fact
Now you will find men and women of all ages one of the exceptions is Fred Olsen Cruise Lines, which
taking solo voyages safe in the knowledge that has a good number across its four ships.
while they may be alone, they won’t be lonely. This means solo cruisers generally face extra supple-
With shared tables at mealtimes, group activities ments that can add up to 100% to the price of their
onboard and ashore and even gentlemen hosts to cabin as most lines allocate double cabins for single
ensure no one is stuck for a dance partner; it’s easy customers.
to see why so many singles take to the high seas. But that’s where the tide is changing. The cruise


■ The internet room on Fred Olsen’s Balmoral
single cruiser tips

● Beware the larger ships (unless they have specific single-orientated activities)
as it’s easy to feel a bit lost onboard and it’s harder to meet people.
● Check out the costs as some lines may try to add on double service charges if
you occupy a double cabin as a solo traveller.
● Opt for a themed cruise. It means you will at least have a shared interest with
the people you meet.
● If you like dancing and want to ensure there will be a gentleman host, check
that they will be on your cruise as they do not necessarily go on all sailings.
■ A P&O Cruises’ single inside cabin ■ The lido bar on Black Watch

Holland America Line
P&O Cruises
■ Deck service on Holland America Line
industry, like several others, has realised that it needs to

cater for the growing number of people travelling alone,
Elsewhere on Azura, passengers can enjoy Sindhu,
an Indian fine dining restaurant created by celebrated
“More single
so more single cabins are starting to appear on ships. Michelin star chef Atul Kochhar; The Glass House, a cabins are
selected dining restaurant and wine bar, created with TV
what’s new? wine expert Olly Smith; and an open-air cinema on the starting to
In April, P&O Cruises launched its newest ship, Azura, top deck.
in a fanfare of fireworks and glamour with prima balle- Some of the funkiest single cabins have yet to come. appear on
rina Darcey Bussell as godmother. But beneath the glitz
and glamour were 18 new single cabins that had been
June sees American company Norwegian Cruise Line
unveil hip new studios aboard its revolutionary new
ships”
specially built for lone cruise passengers. mega-liner, Norwegian Epic, which takes up to 5,000
They might be a bit smaller than the normal double passengers.
cabins, but the single bed is bigger than the norm and Besides the thrilling onboard waterslides, a circus-
some cabins have their own portholes and aren’t tucked themed dinner show, the first abseiling wall at sea and
away in the bowels of the ship with no natural light. one of the biggest spas afloat, single travellers will be
They also come with free mineral water on arrival able to crash out in their own urban retreats.
and welcome guest “pamper packs”. Think bijou and bold for these pocket hideaways

measuring just 10ft by 10ft with mood-lit, domed ceil-

ings, corridor windows and distinctive bathrooms.
But one of the biggest perks of these cosy retreats is
that studio guests get automatic access to their own
shared private lounge called The Living Room, where
they can spread out, enjoy a drink at the bar, watch TV
and meet their neighbours.
P&O Cruises
pick the right cruise
One of the most important things to remember is to ■ P&O Cruises’ Azura at sea
choose the best ship. Get it wrong and you could find
yourself surrounded by people you have nothing in cities along the river make it easy to wander off on
common with, of the wrong age or the wrong type. your own to explore.
If you want to try one of the larger ships with all- A new cruise programme by singles holidays spe-
singing, all-dancing facilities, make sure it is geared up cialist tour operator Solo’s features both river and sea
for anyone on their own with organised get-togethers cruises. It is offering cruises onboard NCL’s new ship,
and opportunities to meet other solo cruisers. Norwegian Epic, this summer and over Christmas and
Smaller ships, which tend to have more of a house- the New Year. Solo’s has taken an allocation of studio
party atmosphere, lend themselves to lone passengers – cabins, which have a full-size bed.
but they tend to attract an older crowd. Solo’s does not charge single supplements and
Saga Cruises, Spirit of Adventure, Voyages of guests are accompanied by a tour leader, who organises
Discovery and Fred Olsen all cater for this market dining arrangements and onboard activities as well as
admirably and offer keener prices for single cruisers – excursions. It also features Nile and Lake Nasser cruis-
but their clientele tends to be more mature. es in Egypt and 14-night cruises in the Maldives.
Holland America Line offers a younger and more
refined ambience and its cruises visit exotic spots such single cruising facts
as South America and Asia as well as Alaska and the
Caribbean. sample cruises
Its ships do not have single cabins, but HAL offers a Fred Olsen Cruise Lines (01473 742424,
Single Partners Share Programme which enables same- www.fredolsencruises.co.uk) is offering a one-week cruise to the
sex passengers to share, so customers gain an instant Norwegian Fjords from Dover, departing on August 21. Ports of call
companion and a cheaper fare too. include Bergen, Flam,Vik and Farsund before returning to Dover. It costs
Even if HAL cannot find a sharing partner and a cus- from £1,189 for an inside single cabin.
tomer ends up on their own, they still pay the same fare.
Some cruise lines, such as Fred Olsen, HAL and AMAWaterways (0808 223 5009, www.amawaterways.co.uk) is
Crystal Cruises even employ gentlemen dance hosts so not charging single supplements on various dates. A one-week cruise
single cruisers can always be guaranteed a spin around along the Danube from Budapest to Vilshofen
the dance-floor, and there are social hosts to arrange costs from £1,277 for sole occupancy of a twin ■ Budapest
get-togethers. cabin. Price includes wine with dinner, free
Peter Ellegard
If going to sea seems too much like a big deal, why wi-fi and daily tours, but does not include
not try a river cruise? flights and transfers.
These are perfect for lone voyagers as the ship’s
smaller size, with just one or two lounges, means it is Norwegian Cruise Line (0845 201 8912;
easy to bump into people and strike up long-lasting www.ncl.co.uk) offers a nine-night
friendships. The cosy atmosphere, shared dining and Caribbean fly-cruise on Norwegian Epic from
group tours mean that, if you want to, you can forget that £1,079 for a single traveller in one of the studio
you’re on your own and soon become part of the group. cabins.The price is for departures between July 2010 and April 2011 and
Or if you want to escape everyone else, on includes flights.The cruise departs Miami with calls at Honduras and
European river cruises the daily stops at towns and Mexico.
Solo’s (0844-371 8860, www.solos.co.uk) has a 14-night Desert Island

Maldives cruise for singles on the 66-passenger Yasawa Princess, with
opportunities to dive and snorkel on reefs off the Indian Ocean islands.
Departures are on October 3 (costing £1,899) and February 20, 2011,
(£1,949), and include flights and all food and drink.
more information
● The Passenger Shipping Association represents the main cruise lines
and its website www.discovercruises.co.uk gives details of these and
■ A studio stateroom on Norwegian Epic contains a section on family cruises.
NCL

Kenwood Travel FP 25/3/10 12:17 Page 1
all aboard ■ cruise news
cruise clips ■ Dinner among ruins at Ephesus
Great Rail Journeys
■ Rhine cruise
Windstar Cruises
This could be just the ticket
for travellers wary of flying
after the Iceland volcanic ash
crisis. Specialist ■ Fly in a MiG fighter jet
travel company
Great Rail
Journeys is
promoting 16
European river
Shore thing for thrills
cruises in its t’s not just cruises that are getting more adventur- If this isn’t your thing, you can dine among the
new River
Cruising by
Rail brochure, with departures
I ous – but excursions are too and this year is see-
ing some fascinating new options.
Gone are the days when passengers were
ancient wonders of Ephesus in Turkey as offered by
tall ship line Windstar Cruises or go back to the
Middle Ages for a themed dinner in a German castle
from London’s St Pancras. packed into coaches and driven to the nearest during a Rhine cruise with Scenic Tours.
www.greatrail.com ceramics factory. Then there are Ferrari-driving trips or visiting
These days they can hitch a ride in a MiG fighter Santa’s summer home (and seeing the man himself)
jet or even tackle the final frontier on what has to be in Finland with P&O Cruises, or whizzing along the
More Brits are cruising than the ultimate cruise line excursion – training as a cos- world’s fastest zip-wire at up to 60mph in Alaska,
ever before. New figures from monaut for the day at the world’s largest hydrospace courtesy of Norwegian Cruise Lines.
the Passenger Association show laboratory at Star City near Moscow. But if it’s a more personal touch that you’re after,
Offered by Crystal Cruises, this new tour comes get a special excursion put together just for you by
at a fairly stratospheric price, from $4,359 to one of the private concierges now found on the more
$32,995. upmarket ships.
Celebrity Cruises
Haute cuisine with a twist

ruises have always been
■ Celebrity Eclipse
the number of UK cruisers

rose 4% last year to 1.53
C the place for wining and
dining in style and the
choice is getting ever more exotic.
million – despite the tough That is underlined with June’s
economy.This represents a launch of the latest mega-liner,
tripling of the market since Norwegian Cruise Line’s
1997, when just 522,000 Norwegian Epic, which can carry
Britons took cruises. up to 5,000 passengers.
Among its myriad attractions
will be the new Cirque Dreams ■ Circus dining on Norwegian Epic.
NCL
Tall ship line Star Clippers has circus-style dinner show in Epic’s Inset: Qsine dish
unveiled some classy new cruise own “big top” where performers
and stay options. Prices start at will mingle with diners; dropping (served with a blue flashing
£999 for a five-night “mini down from the ceiling to refill light!), Crunchie Munchies and a
Celebrity Cruises
millionaire” package on drinks glasses. Mezze Wall.

September 27 that combines a In April, Celebrity Cruises’ These are just some of the
two-night stay in Monte Carlo newest ship Celebrity Eclipse many types of speciality restau-
with a three-night sailing along the unveiled a new style of dining at rants that cruise customers will
Cote d’Azur. Flights not included. its restaurant Qsine, where dishes Hence diners can embark on a now find on most ships, though
www.starclippers.com have been given their own novel “culinary journey” and sample be warned: they often carry an
twist. Sushi Lollipops, Disco Shrimp extra charge.

41TLmay-jun10 123456789 17/5/10 15:37 Page 1
OfftheBT_TLmayjune10v1pp42-46:T&L 24/5/10 07:48 Page 42
off the beaten track ■ pacific northwest us
TWIN PEAKS
Majestic mountains, stately forests, spectacular coastlines, picture-postcard towns and lively cities
make Washington State and Oregon – America’s Pacific Northwest – a great touring combination
which visitors will recognise from films and movies. Peter Ellegard goes behind the scenes
■ Salish Lodge and impression on me I was determined to see them for real.
F
rom my vantage point high above
Snoqualmie Falls Snoqualmie Falls, I could not only see the And while it took the best part of 20 years to fulfil that
Peter Ellegard torrents cascading over the precipice but also dream, I was not disappointed.
watch them disappearing down to the river
far below while feeling their thundering cascades loop
power like the blast of a jet engine at close Finding Snoqualmie was something of an adventure,
quarters. despite being just 25 miles from Seattle. Having played
All around me, spray rose up to coat the thick stands golf at 2015 US Open host course Chambers Bay, near
of trees and leave their moss-festooned branches glisten- Tacoma just south of Seattle, I programmed the satnav
ing with water droplets. for my intended destination but didn’t quite get the
It’s a scene anyone who has witnessed the might of name right. And a couple of hours later I ended up in a
Canada’s Niagara Falls would be familiar with. A truly tiny place called Skykomish with wonderful old build-
uplifting experience. Yet I was on the balcony of my ings and railway sidings – but no sign of the falls or the
suite at the luxury Salish Lodge spa resort, perched per- spa. I was actually 90 minutes from where I was meant
ilously close to the waterfall. So close, I even had a to be and it was 10pm. Thankfully, a friendly downtown
grandstand view down the cascade through a window of restaurant rustled up a meal for me and I eventually got
one of the two bathrooms while standing in my super- to Snoqualmie at midnight.
sized whirlpool bath having a shower. I just hope no-one I had inadvertently driven along part of one of the
had the same view in reverse from the nearby viewing most scenic touring routes in Washington State, the
platforms. Cascades Loop – a 440-mile circuit of twisting, mostly
Fans of cult TV series Twin Peaks, which first aired mountain roads through stunning scenery in the
in 1990, will recognise the falls and lodge from the Cascade Mountains which also takes in waterfront city
opening titles sequence. The resort’s restaurant also Everett, where you can tour the huge Boeing factory, as
looks out over the falls and Snoqualmie River, beyond well as quaint towns including Snohomish and Monroe.
cliffs used as roosts by peregrine falcons. The loop takes several days to tour and I had no time
Polished black stones worn smooth from the torrent are to do the rest of it, as I was on a far more adventurous
used in a hot stone massage treatment in the resort’s spa. fly-drive tour, of Washington and neighbouring Oregon
The historic rail town of Snoqualmie and neighbour- – America’s Pacific Northwest. Bounded by the mighty
ing forest-swathed areas featured prominently in the Pacific on their rugged west coasts and encompassing
series and in another contemporary cult TV classic, landscapes of soaring mountains, sprawling forests,
Northern Exposure, which was supposedly set in Alaska rushing rivers and gushing waterfalls, this is a region
but was actually filmed in nearby Roslyn and surround- shaped by nature where blues and greens dominate the
ing area. The towering mountains and sweeping forests spectrum. This is wine country, too. Oregon alone has
that formed the backdrop to both series made such an 700 vineyards.

Travel Oregon/Larry Geddis

■ The Oregon coast
■ Columbia Gorge, Oregon

Peter Ellegard

tax-free shopping
My itinerary had started in Oregon’s stately capital city,
Portland, famed for its parks and gardens (hence its
nickname, the City of Roses), architecture and tax-free
shopping. My companions and I overnighted at the
stylish, downtown boutique Hotel Lucia before setting
off on the 250-mile drive to Bandon Dunes Golf
Resort, a wonderful echo of traditional Scottish links
on a wild and windswept stretch of coast. The drizzly
May weather – it had been 100°F the previous week –
Travel Oregon
only served to amplify the feeling of deja vu, except for
■ Mount Hood the resident turkey vultures.
in summer Bandon can be reached in four hours, but a full day
allows for sightseeing stops and lunch overlooking
lights, camera, action… Pacific rollers. Traffic on the coastal Highway 101 flows
at a leisurely pace, as the rocky Oregon coast is a pho-
tographers’ paradise. Kodak moments loom around
Drive around the Pacific Northwest states of Oregon and Washington, and you every corner – notably pretty Depoe Bay and Heceta
can’t help but feel a certain sense of deja vu. Head Lighthouse, America’s most photographed light-
As you approach the historic, swanky Timberline Lodge hotel, nestled half-way up house. You can also glimpse sea lions and sea otters at
Oregon’s towering Mount Hood, you could be forgiven if the hairs on the back of Sea Lion Caves.
your neck start to bristle. Cue shrieking music and all becomes clear; the exterior Another 260-mile drive from Bandon took us inland
of this grand, wooden icon was used as the hotel in the classic 1977 horror movie, to the dry side of the Cascades through picturesque
The Shining, starring a manic, murderous Jack Nicholson. mountain forests to central Oregon, and its main city of
Thankfully, the only knock on the door is for room service; the axeman does not Bend. Heaven for outdoors enthusiasts thanks to its high
cometh, so you can sleep easily in your gloriously-soft bed.The hotel, which exudes desert environment and climate, with over 300 sunny
rustic elegance, offers skiing down to its front entrance in winter and spring with days a year, we had managed to find the few rainy ones.
summer activities including trail riding and mountain biking. Activities here include fly fishing, hiking, mountain bik-
Oregon capital Portland has been the backdrop to many TV productions and ing, rock climbing and golf. In the unlikely event of
films for its grand, stylish architecture; the list of credits includes Free Willy, which rain, the family-run Five Pine Lodge, near picturesque
was also shot in Washington State’s San Juan Islands. Hit movie Twilight, about a girl tourist town Sisters, has an oriental-themed Shibui spa
who falls in love with a dashing vampire, was mostly filmed in Portland and that rivals any fancy Far East resort, while the bathtub in
Washington’s Olympic Peninsula, where it was set. each cosy, wooden cottage fills from a spout in the ceil-
The central Oregon coastal town of Salem, meanwhile, was the setting for ing. The homely resort even has its own wooden cinema
another Nicholson classic, One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest. and brewpub.
Seattle has a roll call that includes many famous movies – including the ultimate
chick-flick weepie, Sleepless in Seattle. Much of it was filmed around the city, its
famous Pike Place Market among locations.
Watch the film before you visit Seattle, then base yourself near the harbour and
Pike Place Market so you can explore it on foot. A good, central base is Kimpton
Hotels’ chic boutique property, the Hotel Alexis, just a short stroll from both.
In the1960s, Elvis Presley used Seattle as the setting for his hit movie, It
Happened at the World’s Fair. Others have included An Officer and a Gentleman, The
Fabulous Baker Boys (also filmed in Bellevue) and, in
2006, The Last Mimzy.
Peter Ellegard
The picturesque forests and peaks of the

Washington State Tourism Office
Cascade mountains were a very familiar sight

on TV screens in the early 1990s, through ■ Timberline Lodge, Oregon
cult series Twin Peaks and Northern Exposure,
as well as on the big screen, with Deliverance.
The opening credits of Northern Exposure historic hotels
featured a moose walking along the main Nestling under Oregon’s tallest peak, majestic Mount
street of pretty mountain town Roslyn. Fans Hood, and near the Oregon Trail once travelled by pio-
■ The Space of the series still come to stroll its streets and neers, are two historic hotels. The Resort at the
Needle, Seattle join in the annual Moosefest event Mountain is a Scottish-themed retreat offering 27 holes
(www.moosefest.org), which celebrates the show. It of undemanding golf plus tennis, croquet, lawn bowls
includes walking tours, bus tours and interviews with local residents who starred and other facilities in 300 forested acres of the Salmon
as extras in the series.This year’s event is from July 23-25. River Valley. Timberline Lodge is a luxuriously-rustic
The moose from the series, called Monty, is long dead, but you might just bump ski and summer activity resort high up on the moun-
into some of his offspring. tain.
Heading to Portland, I took in the breathtaking

45TLmay-jun10 22/5/10 11:28 Page 1
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pacific nor thwest usa facts

when to go
From spring to autumn.
Summers can be surprisingly
warm.The region’s coast has a
maritime climate and
Peter Ellegard
conditions can quickly change;
central areas are drier and ■ Northwest Railway Museum, Snoqualmie
sunnier.
getting there and getting around

Flights are operated directly from London Heathrow to Seattle by
British Airways (www.ba.com).You can also fly to the region on
indirect services by several airlines.
The Pacific Northwest lends itself to fly-driving, with either a one-way
or round-tip tour between Seattle and Portland. Rent cars with Dollar
(www.dollar.co.uk), Alamo (www.alamo.co.uk) and other
companies.
Peter Ellegard
where to stay
■ Pike Place Market, Seattle Hotels include Timberline Resort, Mount
Hood, Oregon
Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area from the (www.timberlineresort.com),
winding scenic byway, dotted with cascading waterfalls Alexis Hotel, Seattle
and sweeping vistas. (www.alexishotel.com), Salish Lodge,
Seattle is little more than three or four hours from Snoqualmie,Washington
Peter Ellegard
Portland by freeway, but after dropping off my compan- (www.salishlodge.com) and Paradise Inn,
ions for their flights and swapping to a smaller car I ■ Paradise Inn Mount Rainier,Washington
took a more circuitous route. First stop was at the (www.mtrainierguestservices.com).
recently-restored Paradise Inn, an evocative national
parks-owned heritage hotel on the flanks of mighty tour operators
Mount Rainier, Washington’s tallest mountain. Nearby Packages are offered by a number of tour operators, including America
volcano Mount St Helens, which dramatically blew its As You Like It (www.americaasyoulikeit.com), North America Travel
top in 1980, makes a fascinating side excursion en Service (www.northamericatravelservice.co.uk) and Travelpack
route. (www.travelpack.com).
Then it was on, eventually, to Snoqualmie. Besides
its waterfall, the town has a collection of working old tourist information
steam and diesel locos at the Northwest Railway Oregon: www.traveloregon.com;Washington State:
Museum. Explore the forests beyond town and you can www.experiencewa.com; and Seattle: www.visitseattle.org.
find forested parks with deserted mountain streams –
the perfect romantic escape.
“This is a region Peninsula is worth adding on some time to visit. Here
farmers’ market you can find some of the world’s largest trees in the
Famously the home of grunge music and coffee bars, shaped by nature Olympic National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site
Seattle’s many attractions include its iconic Space where blues and and Biosphere at the peninsula’s heart, while large herds
Needle tower, with its 520-foot-high observation deck of elk roam the temperate rainforests and river valleys
offering panoramic views of the city. A Seattle greens dominate on western slopes of Olympic Mountain.
CityPass (www.citypass.com) includes the Space I never made it there on my tour, but that is top of
Needle along with five of the city’s other top attrac-
the spectrum” my list for when I return to this spectacular corner of
tions and experiences: Experience Music the USA.
Project/Science Fiction Museum, Seattle Aquarium,
Argosy Cruises Harbour Tour, the Pacific Science
Centre, the Museum of Flight and Woodland Park Zoo. WIN Seattle CityPass tickets
Another must is to savour the atmosphere of Pike We have three pairs of Seattle CityPass ticket booklets to give away.Worth $59
Place Market, which opened in 1907 and is one of the each booklet (a saving of almost 50% on the combined attraction prices if bought
oldest farmers’ markets in the US. Its fish, produce and separately), the Seattle CityPass covers six top attractions and experiences in the
craft stalls attract some 10 million visitors a year. city. Go to www.tlm-magazine.co.uk and click on the competitions and
Reached by ferry and a 60-minute drive from giveaways button.Terms and conditions apply. Closing date June 30, 2010.
Seattle, or a two-hour direct drive, the Olympic

Swarovski FP 23/5/10 22:31 Page 1
35TLmar-apr10 26/3/10 18:29 Page 1
GolfTLmayjune10pp49-52:T&L 24/5/10 07:24 Page 49
pack your clubs ■ northern france
Ooh la par
■ Golf de Omaha Beach and harbour
Brittany Ferries
Just a short hop across the English Channel, the courses of the Pas de Calais, Normandy and
Brittany offer a ferry good option for golfers wanting a short break with good-value green fees and
a familiar feel. Peter Ellegard highlights some of the French fancies to be found in the region
F
or the hordes of British golfers heading
across the Channel every year, there’s a part
of northern France that will be forever
England. Such is the popularity of the Cote
d’Opale’s golf courses, the Pas de Calais
region alone accounts for as much as 70% of
all golfers visiting France from the UK.
It’s a love affair that goes right back to the days of
Noel Coward, PG Wodehouse and the so-called “smart
set” of the 1920s. And even beyond that, in fact – the
“Even top resorts of Le Touquet and Hardelot, today’s golfing
courses hotspots, were both first developed by English
Francophiles over 100 years ago. This was where the
represent British love of golf in France first blossomed.
The romance waned for a while as golfers were
good value seduced by younger rivals from Southern Europe and
more exotic, far-off climes.
when
J F Lefevre/CRT Normandy
But it has been rekindled in recent years. And with

compared to the Channel Tunnel and the advent of fast ferries as well
as more luxurious traditional craft in the Western
their English Channel, people are venturing farther afield to play in
Normandy and Brittany. Courses beyond the northern
counterparts” Cote d’Opale have also become popular, with the likes
■ Normandy produce

of Chantilly in Picardy gaining favour.

■ Place des Heros, Arras, at night
The lure of northern France is the combination of the
ease of getting there, the quality of the golf and excel-
lent value. Even top courses represent good value when
compared to their English counterparts. An added bonus
is that when you take your own car by ferry or the
Channel Tunnel you have no luggage restrictions or
excess payments for taking golf clubs, as is now the
norm with airlines.
Nord-Pas-de-Calais
Some of the popular Pas de Calais area courses can
get very busy during the key seasons, in spring and
autumn, which is one reason why golfers have been
exploring courses and areas farther away. But most
courses are little played compared to those across the
Channel.
off-course attractions Out of season, there are some great deals to be had
with discounted green fees and often added-value offers
such as lunch and a buggy thrown in with the green fee.
From stark reminders of both World Wars to ornate chateaux, France’s northern Northern France is a popular destination for golfing
coast has plenty of distractions for golfers to enjoy away from the fairways. groups, with an average stay of two or three nights and
The Cote d’Opale has 120km of coast with long stretches of sandy beaches.The typically six people in a group.
north encompasses towns such as Dunkirk, Calais, Boulogne and Le Touquet which This is what northern France has to offer:
offer everything from great shopping to history, markets and festivals as well as
attractions including Boulogne’s Nausicaa aquarium and its imposing ramparts. nord-pas de calais
Veteran resort Le Touquet still has a period feel, thanks to its Art Deco villas. At The number one French golf destination by far, the
night you can dress up and hit the casino. Nearby Hardelot has also been a shining stars of the Cote d’Opale are Le Touquet’s La
favourite with Brits since the 19th century. Mer and Hardelot’s Les Pins courses. Golf first
Sprawling cemeteries are stark reminders of both World Wars, marking those appeared at the two fledgling resorts in the early 1900s,
who fell in the Great War’s trenches and the Normandy Landings.The remains of thanks to Englishmen Allen Stoneham, who founded
pontoons used for the D-Day invasion are another poignant reminder of this Le Touquet Syndicate in 1903, and John Whitley, who
coast’s turbulent past. bought the Domaine du Touquet with Stoneham’s
Normandy town Bayeaux is home to the famous tapestry, celebrating the money the same year and also developed Hardelot.
Norman Conquest of Britain. But its most recognisable tourism icon is the Le Touquet’s first 18-hole course, by Horace
monastery island of Mont-Saint-Michel. Besides its port towns of Dieppe, Caen, Hutchinson, opened in 1904 and is now La Foret course.
Cherbourg and Le Havre, there is the charm of pretty harbour town Honfleur, the A nine-hole course, now Le Touquet Manoir with the
grace of elegant and fashionable Deauville and the medieval history of Rouen. Head 42-bedroom Le Manoir hotel alongside, followed in
inland and you can find traditional villages, Calvados-producing orchards and can 1910. The glorious links course designed by Harry Colt,
sample the wonderful cheeses and rustic cuisine. which would later be known as La Mer, opened in 1931.
Brittany’s coast is a contrast of glorious beaches and rugged, rocky coastlines It has hosted six French Opens, his 1977 victory helping
facing both the English Channel and the Bay of Biscay. Places to visit include the propel a young Severiano Ballesteros onto the world
lovely medieval city of Vannes, once the capital of Brittany, and the ancient river golfing stage.
port of Auray. Seafood lovers will be hard pressed to better Brittany’s fare. Now owned by French golf and resort group Open
Golf Club, which also owns Hardelot Golf Club, La
Mer has been restored back to its original design and a
■ Calais
wooden bridge built to serve a small railway line but
destroyed in World War II has been rebuilt alongside the
10th hole.
Hardelot’s first nine holes opened in 1906 alongside
Whitley’s Hardelot Castle, the first tee being bizarrely
situated on top of one of its towers. The layout, attrib-
uted to the legendary Harry Vardon, was redeveloped as
an 18-hole course by Tom Simpson, opening in 1931. It
was called Les Pins when a new course, Les Dunes by
Belgian architect Paul Rolin, was added in 1991 and has
also been restored to its original design.
The days of Jeeves and Bertie Wooster may be
Nord-Pas-de-Calais
gone, but there is still very much a whiff of Britannia

about both Le Touquet and Hardelot, as a result of
their long British associations (Open Golf Club only
became Le Touquet’s first French owner in 1992), and
the clientele.

Pas-de-Calais
■ Tournament at St Omer
This area is more than just Le Touquet and Hardelot,

though. North of Boulogne, Wimereux is a demanding
links course which also dates back more than a century.
While inland is the par-73 Aa-St-Omer Golf Club
course, which is user-friendly for mid to high handicap-
pers off the front tees but serves up a tough 140 slope
rating from the tips. You can stay at the nearby four-star
Chateau Tilques. Arras also has a good course.
The Flanders area bordering Belgium has excellent
Open Golf Club Golf & Resorts

golf, too – notably in the form of the Golf Club de
Dunkerque. Close to the town of Dunkirk, it offers three
loops of nine holes.
normandy/brittany
The growth in popularity of courses in these regions is ■ La Mer course, Le Touquet
underscored by Brittany Ferries, which operates a very
popular Golf Breaks programme.
The most popular courses are those around the ferry
ports of Caen and St Malo, but there are some real gems
to be found elsewhere in Normandy and Brittany.
Among highlights is Golf Barriere de Deauville,
with an 18-hole course by Tom Simpson from 1929 and
another nine holes added by Henry Cotton in the 1960s
plus an on-site luxury hotel. Also in Deauville is the
Golf Club de l’Amiraute, a marshland course but with
large greens and wide fairways, and featuring sculptures
dotted around the course.
Open Golf Club Golf & Resorts
The 27-hole Golf de Omaha Beach enjoys a stunning

clifftop location overlooking one of the D-Day landing
sites. Closer to Dieppe is Golf d’Etretat, also set on
chalk cliffs and rated among the top 25 courses in
France.
Inland delights include the highly-rated Golf Club du ■ Hardelot's Les Pins course
Champ de Bataille, in the wooded grounds of a Louis

nor thern france golf facts

when to play
The main season for UK golfers is from March to the end of June, and
then from the end of August to the end of October. But golf can be
played year-round.The weather is similar to that of southern England.
getting there
Cross-Channel ferry services are operated
by several ferry companies: Norfolkline
Brittany Ferries
(www.norfolkline.com); SeaFrance
(www.seafrance.com); P&O
(www.poferries.com); LD Lines
(www.ldlines.co.uk); Condor Ferries
(www.condorferries.co.uk); and Brittany ■ Fast ferry
Ferries (www.brittanyferries.com). Sailings
operate from Dover, Folkestone, Newhaven, Portsmouth,
Weymouth and Plymouth to French ports Dunkirk, Calais, Boulogne,
Dieppe, Caen, Cherbourg, St Malo, Le Havre and Roscoff.
Find out more about ferry routes and services from the Passenger
Shipping Association ferry website, www.discoverferries.co.uk.
You can also take the Eurotunnel shuttle trains through the Channel Tunnel.
■ Hardelot golf packages

Britanny Ferries Holidays
Brittany Ferries
(www.brittanyferries.com) has a
Nord-Pas-de-Calais
dedicated golf programme featuring

■ American-style golf at Le Golf Parc de Nantilly
Brittany and Normandy. Other packaged
golf holidays are offered by tour
XIV chateau, and Le Golf Parc de Nantilly, a spectacu- operators including Golfbreaks.com
lar American-style course with island greens just an (www.golfbreaks.com),Your Golf Travel
hour west of Paris. (www.yourgolftravel.com), Golf Planet
Brittany is awash with excellent golf, and the Holidays (www.golfplanetholidays.com) and
Brittany Golf Pass gives discounts of between 15% and Leisure Link Golf Holidays (www.leisurelinkgolf.com). Discounted
20% on its courses. The rugged coast provides a beauti- green fees are often available through golf passes, with fixed prices for
ful backdrop to a number of courses. playing a set number of rounds on participating courses.
Base yourself at the St Malo Hotel Golf & Country
Club just minutes from St Malo and you can play its 27- tourist information
hole parkland course and explore the northern Brittany Nord-Pas-de-Calais Regional Tourist Board:
coast to play other courses including France’s second- www.northernfrance-tourism.com
oldest, the 120-year-old Dinard Golf Club. Golf Club Normandy Tourism: www.normandy-tourism.org
des Ormes, in the grounds of a 16th century chateau, is Brittany Tourism: www.brittanytourism.com
good for families as it has a campsite next to it.
Rennes, which has an airport served from UK air-
ports, has 11 courses within an hour’s drive. On the west courses Normandy
coast, near Brest, Golf de Brest Iroise is among France’s Golf Barriere de Deauville
top-ranked courses and is just a short drive from ferry Nord-Pas de Calais www.lucienbarriere.com
port Roscoff, served from Plymouth. Le Touquet Golf Club
Brittany’s south coast has a number of good courses, www.opengolfclub.com Golf de Omaha Beach
among them Golf de Baden Baden, skirting an inlet www.omahabeachgolfclub.com
which overlooks the Iles du Morbihan, and the short but Hardelot Golf Club
demanding Golf Ploemeur. www.opengolfclub.com Brittany
Saint-Malo Hotel Golf & Country
Wimereux Golf Club Club
www.golf-wimereux.com www.saintmalogolf.com
Golf de Dunkerque Golf de Brest Iroise

Brittany Ferries
www.golf-dk.com www.brest-iroise.com
■ Golf Barriere de Deauville, Deauville

53TLmay-jun10 22/5/10 11:33 Page 1

54TLmay-jun10 23/5/10 21:20 Page 1

Competition(p55)TLmayjune10v1:T&L 24/5/10 09:43 Page 55
competition ■ hotel break
■ Cotswold Water Park
WIN a relaxing break in the English countryside with
Four Pillars Hotels

O
ffering warm and friendly hospitality,
comfortable accommodation and compre-
hensive facilities set in some of the UK’s
most scenic locations, Four Pillars Hotels
are rapidly establishing themselves as
prime hotspots for breaks and holidays.
Now you have the opportunity to win a fantastic
three-night break worth £650, courtesy of Four Pillars
Hotels, at a choice of six delightful properties across
Oxfordshire, the Cotswolds and Bristol. The hotels
range from a magnificent Grade II-listed building to a ■ The stunning Oxford Thames hotel
contemporary lakeside property.
There are walks in beautiful, landscaped gardens and To enter, go to www.tlm-magazine.co.uk and click on
an arboretum of over 300 rare and protected trees near the competitions and giveaways button. Closing date is
the historic city of Bristol, while in Oxfordshire, guests June 30, 2010.
can visit Oxford’s historic colleges, enjoy great shop-
ping, restaurants, museums and perfect their punting terms & conditions
skills along the river. Local attractions include an array One entrant will win one weekend break for two people
of outdoor activities such as sailing, cycling and nature at their choice of the six Four Pillars Hotels. The prize is
trails in the Cotswolds. for three nights sharing a twin/double room on a dinner,
bed and breakfast basis. Entries must be received by June
how to enter 30, 2010, and the prize taken by November 30, 2010.
For a chance to win a three-night break for two people Entry is restricted to one per person. The winner will be
at a property of your choice, simply answer the follow- drawn at random from all correct entries received. The
ing question: prize is subject to availability, non transferable, non-nego-
tiable and there is no cash alternative. For full terms and
Question: How many properties does the Four Pillars conditions visit www.tlm-magazine.co.uk and click on
Hotels group have? the competitions and giveaways button.
short break – enjoying dinner, bed and

READER OFFER ■ Moretons Restaurant,
Tortworth Court
breakfast daily – from just £39 per person, per
night. Plus, children stay and eat for free. Or
Take a spring break from just stay in one of the stylish self-catering
£39 per person per night with apartments at the Cotswold Water Park Hotel
Four Pillars Hotels for a fabulous lakeside location, flexibility, great
value and a wealth of nearby activities.
And tlm readers taking advantage of
Spring is in the air! After months of being dinner, bed and breakfast breaks will enjoy a
cooped up indoors, it's time to get out and complimentary bottle of house wine with
enjoy the many vibrant wonders that England dinner on the first night of their stay! Just
has to offer. popular English holiday hot-spots of quote “Travel & Leisure” when booking.
Take a spring break at a Four Pillars Hotel Oxfordshire, Gloucestershire and the Offers are valid for new bookings only on
and not only will you get to see this beautiful Cotswolds, there is so much to see and do stays until June 30, 2010. For details and full
season at its best, you will benefit from some in the local area. terms and conditions, call 0800 374 692 or
fabulous special rates.With hotels in the You can get away for a relaxing weekend or visit www.four-spring.co.uk.

56TLmay-jun10 24/5/10 10:37 Page 1
Pinks or Narcissi
according to season
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22666
Discover The Isles of Scilly

and Tresco Abbey Gardens
With over 10 years of experience, our special interest
short breaks to The Isles of Scilly are limited to 20
people and offer a unique opportunity to explore these
peaceful islands with an expert guide. This includes a
guided tour of the world famous Tresco Abbey Gardens.
These breaks are unhurried, there are few cars and
transport between the islands is courtesy of the local
boatmen. A comfortable hotel, a rich and fascinating
heritage and a designated area of outstanding natural
beauty to explore – quite simply a perfect opportunity to
“get away from it all”.
Next available departure: 10/14 September 2010
For further details of this or any other of our special
interest breaks, please telephone 0845 1212863 quoting
reference TLM or visit our websites.
www.brooklandtravel.com
www.toursthroughtime.com
email: info@brooklandtravel.com
Brookland Travel, 1st Floor, 22 High East Street,
Dorchester, Dorset. DT1 1EZ

Exotic
DoorstepTLmayjun10v1pp57-60:T&L 22/5/10 06:38 Page 57
on your doorstep ■ the isles of scilly
outposts
Tucked 28 miles off the south-west corner of
Cornwall, the tiny Isles of Scilly offer visitors the
chance to experience a sub-tropical slice of England
very much in the slow lane – and that’s just how
Jane Anderson likes it
■ St Martins
B
rowsing through the Daily Telegraph
recently, a little headline caught my
fancy. “Scilly speed trap on just six miles
of road”. It transpires that police have
just introduced the first speed trap on the
Isles of Scilly… on an island with only
six miles of road.
Officers on the main island of St Mary’s, popula-
tion 1,600, have taken delivery of a radar gun. The
island has a 60mph speed limit but police admit that
its roads contain so many bends it is virtually impossi-
ble to drive that fast. Since the radar gun was intro-
duced the fastest vehicle has been a moped travelling
at 34mph.
Such is the pace of life on these diminutive islands,
www.simplyscilly.com/Jamie Large
as seen in the hugely-popular BBC2 documentary

series An Island Parish. St Mary’s, 28 miles off the
coast of Cornwall, has no traffic lights and the
Scillies’ four other inhabited islands have no formal
roads.
In fact a parallel can be drawn between these beau-
tiful islands and many a castaway archipelago. They

■ Gig racing
www.simplyscilly.com
festivals and events on scilly
● Walk Scilly:This seven-day walking festival from the end of March to the
beginning of April features an array of themed, guided walks on topics such as
archaeology and photography, flora and fauna, castles and cliffs, beaches and
birds, bats and boats. www.walkscilly.co.uk
● World Pilot Gig Championships:The islands’ biggest annual event takes place the
first Bank Holiday weekend in May.This four-day extravaganza sees more than
1,000 gig rowers form all over the globe powering long wooden boats across
the seas. www.worldgigs.co.uk
● Arts Scilly:This new festival began in May this year.
● The Round the Island Race:This annual event takes place on August 1, but gig
races are held weekly on Wednesday and Friday evenings.
may lack the overwater chalets and underwater spas of Tesco. It’s one of the most beautiful supermarkets I’ve
the Maldives, but they share much tropical DNA. ever seen, like a mini Fortnum & Mason and not a plas-
A splatter of around 150 low lying islands, they’re tic bag in sight. There are beautiful bikes for hire next
caressed by the Gulf Stream, spawning palm trees, cacti door; as on Bryher, there are no cars, just service vehi-
and aloe to go with the bleached and eye-popping azure cles such as tractors and Mini Mokes. Just down the
water. Add to that a range of activities from diving to road is the wonderful Gallery Tresco, stuffed with
sub-tropical gardens, a very affable island masseuse and paintings and sculptures from local artists.
some of the most stylish hotels and beach cottages There are houses by the harbour with front gardens
you’ll care to encounter, and this is one destination that that stretch down like a Monet canvas. And you’ll see
makes it to any self-respecting island hot list. many groups of happy divers heading off for the day.
Boarding the Skybus from mainland UK to St Through a little gate with The Therapy Shed
Mary’s, your Twin Otter 16-seater has the feel of a pri- (www.therapyshed.co.uk) posted on it, is the home of
vate plane, especially when you touch down on St local masseuse Joan, who will give you a great soft tis-
Mary’s lofty runway with the island spread out below, sue manipulation.
bathed in a painterly light. There’s none of the usual air- Of course what people travel here to see is Tresco
port fuss, just friendly faces and an island taxi. In town Abbey Garden. Established in 1834, it has been lovingly
there are cute boutiques and yachty shops. You can pick
up some local delicacies at Woodcock & Mumford deli
and some scented narcissus bulbs from Tideline. The
Isles of Scilly Museum (www.iosmuseum.org) covers
everything from archaeology to zoology. For island
exploring, hire a bike from St Mary’s Bike Hire (0779
6638506).
exotic gardens
Tresco is just a short ferry ride from St Mary’s.
Privately owned by the Dorrien-Smiths, it’s highly man-
The Flying Boat Club
icured, like a mini utopia, where everything works like

clockwork. All the stone houses look like something
out of Country Living with idyllic names like Reading
Room Cottage and Dolphin House. The main “town” of ■ The Flying Boat Club, Tresco
New Grimsby has its Tresco Store, a million miles from

■ St Agnes ■ Tresco Abbey Garden
maintained and developed by five generations of the
Dorrien-Smith family. Augustus John Smith chose exotic plants
Tresco for his garden due to its central position among
the islands, protected from the Atlantic Ocean. Tresco
had very little vegetation above the height of a gorse
and gardens
bush and the harsh salt gales were prime enemy to any The Scilly Isles’ maritime microclimate makes it a
garden, so Smith laid out a wall, 12 ft high to the west haven for unusual flora and fauna. Frost and snow
and a little lower to the south around a ruined priory. occur so seldom that gardeners are able to grow
Subsequent generations brought plants from around exotic species from around the world.You’ll see
the globe back to the gardens, which are now some of bright pink South African proteas in May, wild flowers
the most spectacular botanical collections you’re like- on parade from June and stunning agapanthuses (Lily
ly to see. Walking down to the main entrance, you of the Nile) around each corner.
pass giant bromeliads and the Dorrien Smith’s tur- October brings the scented narcissi with fields
reted family home. Don’t miss a cream tea in the turning to gold and white. Scented narcissi are grown
cafe and the sight of the huge twin-rotor helicopter that by around 40 family growers who coax these fragrant
lands next to the gardens every few hours, ferrying blooms from Lilliputian fields
locals and supplies between the islands. Tresco scattered around the
Abbey Garden also contains the Valhalla collection Scillonian archipelago.
of 30 figureheads plus name-boards and carv- Churchtown Farm
ings from sail and steam ships wrecked on the on St Martin’s
islands. sends scented

“This is one narcissi in winter
magical destination and show pinks
The waterfront site where flying boats based at Royal in summer by
Naval Air Station Tresco flew raids against German that makes it first class post.
submarines in World War I is now home to the new Other famous
Flying Boat Club resort. Guests renting one of its 12 to any self- flower growers are
beachfront houses can enjoy the on-site pool, gym and Trenoweth Flower Farm
steam room as well as free tennis, a round at nearby respecting on St Mary’s and Scillonian Bulbs
Isles of Scilly Golf Club and entry to Abbey Garden.
Just a five-minute ferry ride away from Tresco is
island hot and Flowers on St Agnes.
Bryher, so tiny it makes you feel like a conquering list”

scilly isles facts

getting there
By air, British International Helicopters
(www.islesofscillyhelicopter.com) runs a regular service from
Penzance directly to St. Mary’s and Tresco. Isles of Scilly Travel
(www.ios-travel.co.uk) operates scheduled Skybus flights to St. Mary’s
from Southampton, Bristol, Exeter, Newquay and Land’s End (with a
■ Yachts at Tresco shuttle to and from Penzance train station).
By water, Isles of Scilly Travel operates the passenger ferry, Scillonian III,
wrecking which sails six days a week from March to October.
getting around
Notorious are the number of ships and lives lost off To appreciate everything that the Scillies have to
these shores. As local artist Richard Pearce offer, you must take to the water.With so many
(www.rpearce.net) says: “The shout of a ship gone boats to choose from, there’s a wide variety
down could bring everyone to the heart of the most of routes and destinations, not forgetting the
mountainous seas. Lives were saved, goods were uninhabited islands. Drop into the Tourist
stowed – that was the Scillonian way.The wrecker’s Information Centre (01720 424031) for
prayer says ‘Oh please Lord, let us pray for all on the advice on routes and times. As for getting
sea. But if there’s go to be wrecks, please send them around the islands, walking and cycling are by
to we’.When the Isabo went down in 1927, 32 far the best options.
Italian sailors were saved.The men of Bryher
launched the gig, Czar, and rowed into the walls of accommodation and information
the storm. I still have my grandfather’s medal, signed From converted barns to castles, four-star hotels to two-star self-
by Mussolini and awarded to all the islanders who catering and stunning campsites, there are plenty of places to stay.The
saved those onboard.” island’s tourist information website (www.simplyscilly.co.uk) has
details of accredited accommodation across the islands, including deals.
You can email providers direct and also search online for a variety of
adventurer as you stride across it in just a couple of criteria. For up-to-date vacancies, call the Tourist Information Centre.
hours from swish Hell Bay hotel, where Ralph Lauren
meets chic Cornwall-style, to Fraggle Rock Bar Cafe (a attractions
Jamie Oliver “Best British Boozer”), with outdoor ● Island Sea Safaris (01720 422732) offer Shipwrecks, Seals and
tables overlooking a pretty natural harbour. Seabirds safaris on rigid inflatable craft around the islands with
St Martin’s is the third-largest island and a great friendly and informative commentary.
place to come and dive the Scillies. If you’re more of a ● Scilly Fishing (www.scillyfishing.co.uk) takes you on marine
land lover, take a conducted tour round St Martin’s adventures aboard the Kingfisher, including reef fishing, shark fishing,
Vineyard and sample the white, red and rose wines or bird-watching and wreck fishing.
pop into Fay Page Silver and treat yourself to a beauti- ● St Mary’s Boatman Association (www.scillyboating.co.uk) offers
fully-made silver and gold shell charm bracelet. wildlife and sightseeing trips across the islands.
If you want to get truly remote, St Agnes is known ● Windsurfing, sailing and kayaking equipment can be hired from the
as the Wild West, being the UK’s most south-westerly Sailing Centre on Porthmellon Beach, St Mary’s and from Raven’s
outpost. Home to a whitewashed lighthouse, it beguiles Porth on Tresco during July and August.
visitors who can take a walk to Troytown Farm (the
Scillies’ one and only dairy farm) to see the cows before
sampling delicious home-made ice cream.
All in all, the Scillies is a magical place to visit. Who Jane Anderson has been globetrotting for over 15 years specialising in honeymoons and family travel.
Islands are a passion and the Scillies comes high on her list, not least for the naughty seagulls who made off
needs the Maldives, I say? Or is it more a cross between with one of her daughter’s sandals on their last visit.
Cape Cod, Corfu and the Caribbean? Another visit is in
and experienced divers to explore. from a five-day BSAC Ocean Diver Course to
dive scilly
With its clear water, abundant wildlife and
Around canyons, stepped reefs and sheer
50m walls, you’ll spot jewel anemones, corals,
“Dead Man’s Fingers”, plumose anemones and
snorkelling with seals. Children from age eight
and up can snorkel with no experience
necessary.
many shipwrecks ranging from the mid-1600s sponges. Grey seals also thrive in the local Non-divers can enjoy the marine
to more recent years, the Scillies has some of waters and are often curious and playful with environment by going on glass-bottomed boat
the finest diving in the world.There are more divers. trips to explore the shallows and secluded
than 155 dive sites, making it a great place to St Martin’s Diving School caves.You can also cruise out to Bishop Rock,
learn, novice divers to test out their new skills (www.scillydiving.com) offers everything the most south-westerly lighthouse in the UK.

61TLmay-jun10 22/5/10 13:14 Page 1

LondonTLmayjun10v1pp62-64:T&L 22/5/10 07:01 Page 62
london life ■ nature in the capital
Wild about London

The urban jungle is a ■ A llama at
real natural attraction Mudchute Farm,
Docklands
L
ondon is a bustling,
urban metropolis, but
much more than that is
on offer when you
explore beyond the
concrete and glass. One
of the greenest capital cities in
the world, it is a veritable oasis
of green spaces with over 3,000
parks and open areas, including
urban wetlands, chalk grasslands
and ancient woodlands – and
they host an incredible diversity
of plant, animal and bird life.
Home to more than 300
species of birds, 1,500 species of
plants and a surprising number of
animals generally associated with
Mudchute Farm
the countryside, its vast array of
wildlife thrives in a variety of wild
habitats, from urban areas to des-
ignated sites, parks and city farms.
So spending time in the city does
not mean you have to sacrifice starting at £15 per annum. ing from chickens to cows, some gramme and its excellent
nature, wildlife and fresh air. Open: Tues-Sun 10am-4pm of which are rare breeds, touch- Mudchute Kitchen restaurant, it is
Here are some options to enjoy October-March; 10am-4.30pm ing is most definitely allowed! also great for family walks and
London’s really wild show: April-September. Open: Every day, 9am-5pm. picnics.
Cost:Admission is free. Cost: Admission is free, but Open: Tues-Sun, 9am-5pm.
city farms Tel: 020 7247 8762 donations are welcome. Cost: Admission is free.
www.spitalfieldscityfarm.org Tel: 020 7916 5421 Tel: 020 7515 5901
One of the easiest ways to get www.ktcityfarm.org.uk www.mudchute.org
close to nature is to visit one of Kentish Town City Farm
London’s urban city farms and 1 Cressfield Close, NW5 4BN Mudchute Park and Farm nature reserves and
experience rural life. This North London farm is locat- Pier Street, Isle of Dogs, parks
ed amid dense local authority E14 3HP
Spitalfields City Farm housing, covering 4.5 acres and London’s largest city farm covers If you want to make sure you see
Buxton Street, E1 5AR offers a busy activity and an area of 32 acres; its some wildlife, it is worth heading
The nearest city farm to the educational pro- wooded glades and to one of the city’s designated
square mile, yet in one of the gramme. Children grazing fields house nature reserves.
most densely populated areas of and adults alike over 200 animals
Tower Hamlets, the farm is are encouraged including llamas, Rainham Marshes
spread over 1.3 acres of land and to participate together with Alongside the River Thames,
receives over 18,000 visitors a in all aspects stables for 26 these medieval marshes – one of
year. The farmyard has a wide of farm life, horses and its very few ancient landscapes left
selection of farm animals, and from mucking own riding in London – are now home to
they operate a “sponsor an ani- out to helping school. As well breeding wading birds in spring
mal” scheme with three levels of with feeds, and as a busy events and summer, and wild ducks in
sponsorship to choose from, with animals rang- ■ Otter and private hire pro- winter. Birds of prey and rare
Brian Phipps

london life ■ nature in the capital
and other rough grassy places.

walk on the The peregrine falcon, the fastest bird in
the world, is a welcome recent arrival to
wild side London’s skies, as they have taken to

breeding on tall buildings; they can
sometimes be seen around the chimney of
It is hard to believe that one of the busiest the Tate Modern, over Regent’s Park, among
cities in the world with its heaving the City’s skyscrapers and roosting on the
population and pollution-clogged roads can Houses of Parliament.
also be home to many wildlife species, not all The lake islands in Regent’s Park and
Lee Valley Regional Park

of which are visible just in specially- Battersea Park are home to the grey heron,
designated wildlife reserves. From rare and the largest European heron; although solitary
unique species such as the water vole – birds, they breed colonially in heronries here.
Britain’s fastest declining mammal – to And the ring-necked parakeet has
foxes and deer, and many unlikely ■ A hide at the WaterWorks Nature Reserve acclimatised so well since it first appeared in
birds, such as peregrine falcons the UK 40 years ago, it has now been
and pelicans, you can encounter long ago for hunting while classified as a pest, with around 40,000 in
many forms of wildlife in the only truly wild deer London and the South East.
London. in London is the roe For more information on where to see
Take an afternoon walk deer, found mainly in wildlife in the capital, the following websites
through St James Park to see part of the green belt. have a huge resource of information on the
the five resident pelicans The urban fox is a wily animals and birds, including sighting details:
basking on their favourite creature to be found in http://wildweb.london.gov.uk
rocks and waiting for their daily the unlikeliest areas of the www.lbp.org.uk/biodiversitylondonwildlife.html
fresh fish treat.The herds of city. And keep an eye out www.wildlondon.org.uk
fallow and red deer in Richmond ■ Water vole underfoot for the slow-worm, www.londonwildcaretrust.co.uk
Park are descendants of herds managed Les Borg often found on railway embankments www.lnhs.org.uk
birds are often seen too and there wildlife. From the important Tel: 08456 770 600 in May. A Site of Special Scientific
are water voles in the ditches and plant and insect life of www.leevalleypark.org.uk Interest (SSSI), it has proved an
rare dragonflies fly across the Walthamstow Marshes to the unparalleled success in attracting
boardwalks. The wildlife garden, kestrels and field voles of London Wetland Centre wildlife. In 1991,132 species of
children’s adventure play area, Tottenham Marshes and the Queen Elizabeth’s Walk, birds were recorded on the
shop and cafe, together with the unique WaterWorks Nature Barnes, SW13 9WT reservoirs, but this had
innovative visitor centre with its Reserve, originally home to the This international increased to 161 by
Wa
huge picture windows looking London Waterworks Company award-winning 2009. Bat, reptile
terW
out across the marshes, make this which now houses one of the haven, home to rare and amphibian
orks N ature Rese
a great spot for all the family. largest bird hides in London as and beautiful species also
Cost: Car park – voluntary £1 well as an 18-hole golf course, wildlife such as bit- thrive on the
donation. Reserve – free to RSPB there is something for everyone terns, kingfishers and 105-acre site as
members, non-members £2.50 in this sprawling park. a colony of endan- the centre repli-
r ve
■ A fun day at WaterWorks

adult, £1 child and £7 family (two Opening times and entry charges gered water voles, cele- Nature Reserve cates different habi-
adults and up to four children). vary. Check website for details. brated its 10th anniversary tats, such as grazing
Open: 9.30am-5pm, April 1- marshes, water meadows and
October 31; 9.30am-4.30pm,
November 1-March 31. wildlife to spot in London lakes and pools. And with six
hides dotted around the reserve,
Tel: 01708 899840 Species Viewing hotspots the London Wetland Centre
www.rspb.org.uk/reserves/ Water vole London Wetland Centre; the Crane, Roding and Cray rivers makes it easy to get up close and
guide/r/rainhammarshes Bats Bushy Park; Hampstead Heath; Sydenham Hill Woods personal to the wildlife.
Red deer Richmond Park; Epping Forest Cost: Free to Wildfowl &
Lee Valley Park Cattle and sheep City farms; Epping Forest; London Wetland Centre Wetlands Trust members; adult
The award-winning Lee Valley Slow-worm Railway embankments £9.95; concession £7.40; child
Regional Park stretches 26 miles Peregrine falcon Regent’s Park, Central London, City of London £5.50 (4-16 years); family £27.75
along the grassy banks of the Grey heron Lonsdale Road Reservoir; Battersea Park (2 adults & 2 children, 4-16
River Lee, from Ware in Kingfisher London’s canals; Lea and Crane rivers years); children under 4 free.
London Wetland Centre
Hertfordshire through Essex to Black redstart Lea Valley; Deptford Creek, Lewisham Open: daily (except December
the Thames at East India Dock Otter London Wetland Centre 25) October 31, 9.30am-6pm,
Basin. Its heritage sites, country Ring-necked parakeet Richmond; Hyde Park; Kew Gardens 9.30am-5pm from November 1
parks and nature reserves are a Stag beetle Richmond Park;Wimbledon Common Tel: 020 8409 4400
haven for many species of www.wwt.org.uk/london

london ■ news
Make Father’s
Day spa-cial
Museum of London Docklands
■ The Museum of London Docklands
pas tend to be the domain of
Free for all S women, but two new packages at

the Chelsea Day Spa definitely
have men in mind.
■ Chelsea Day Spa
The Museum of With the World Cup about to kick off,

London the Chelsea Goes to Cape Town signature
Docklands, treatment includes South African-inspired
situated on treatments such as the Gauteng Gold
the West Facial, a luxurious Elixir d’Or Gold and
India Quay, crushed pearl facial; the MalaMala, an
is now invigorating sea salt scrub and calming
offering free mud clay masque; and the Safari
admission to all Adventure mini manicure or pedicure, ter package, available for Father’s Day
visitors. Offering a finishing with a glass of Amarula cream (June 20), priced at £90. To book an
fascinating insight into liqueur on the rocks. The treatment, last- appointment for these packages, or any
more than 2,000 years of ing approximately 3 hours and 15 min- other treatments, please call 020 7351
history surrounding the utes is available from June, priced at 0911, or visit the website:
Port of London, free £250. www.thechelseadayspa.co.uk.
Museum of London Docklands
entry will encourage even The Daddy’s Girl exclusive signature ● We have a special Father’s Day prize –
more people to explore treatment provides a special treat for for the chance to WIN a Daddy’s Girl
the numerous galleries fathers and daughters; while dad has his treat, go to
and participate in events, ■ The youngest guide at 1st muscles soothed during a one-hour back, www.tlm-magazine.co.uk and click on
Beckenham Company’s first
such as the upcoming camp, c1911 neck and shoulder massage, his daughter competitions and giveaways. Terms and
Here Come the Girl can enjoy a 30-minute Chelsea Girl man- conditions apply. Closing date June 15,
Guides exhibition, opening on June 26. For more icure, plus a 10-minute hand scrub and 2010 – the winner will be chosen and noti-
information, visit www.museumoflondon.org.uk. massage. A glass of champagne and fied prior to Father’s Day, but the prize can
refreshments complete this father/daugh- be redeemed up until August 31, 2010.
Sex and the City Par-Tea World Cup fever

he release of movie Sex This special afternoon Savour the World Cup
T and the City 2 is

being marked with
the ultimate afternoon
tea is available daily
between 3pm and
6pm from May 28,
atmosphere by heading to
one of London’s many pubs
and other venues showing
tea for all SATC fans the film’s release the games on big screens.
at the Hyatt Regency date, to August 31, Alexandra Palace
London – The at £39 per person, (www.alexandrapalace.com)
Churchill. with the added will host up to 2,500
The Sex and the option of tickets to people and as well as the ■ Alexandra Palace
City Par-Tea afternoon a showing of football, they will have a
tea includes New York- SATC2 at the barbecue, bars and food. Entry is £2, including a free
inspired favourites such as Everyman Baker Street first drink.The East Village Bar, on Great Eastern
pastrami on rye, and mini cinema with a chauffeur- Street, will be showing a variety of games, with
New York bagels with smoked driven one-way trip to the cine- oranges at half time and different nationality DJs
salmon and cream cheese plus a selection ma (an additional £16 per person). playing pre and post football matches. For details of
of themed mini pastries, accompanied by For reservations, call 020 7299 2037 other pubs showing World Cup matches, go to
one of the girls’ favourite cocktails, a or email www.worldcup-pubs.co.uk.
Cosmopolitan or maybe a Flirtini. montagu.hrlondon@hyatt.com.

65TLmay-jun10 22/5/10 11:47 Page 1
Experience the Household Cavalry

Story in London’s Royal Heartland
Open daily from 10am
2 for 1 entry
on a £6.00 adult ticket with this advert.
Offer ends 31/08/10
The Household Cavalry Museum

Horse Guards, Whitehall, London SW1A 2AX
www.householdcavalrymuseum.co.uk

Coming NextTLmayjun10v1p66:T&L 22/5/10 06:51 Page 66
coming next + travel tech
Tick talk – and WIN a

£300 sWaP watchphone
Have you ever dashed out of the
house and realised you accidentally
forgot your mobile phone? Now,
with a sWaP (smart watch and
phone), you need never worry
about that – as you always have
Peter Ellegard
■ Shotover jetboat, your phone on your wrist.
Queenstown, New Zealand Combining a wristwatch and
a tri-band phone, these marvels
Don’t miss out on the combine the best features of
both.Two new luxury
July/August 2010 issue of watchphones, the Signature and
Active, from sWaP are unlocked
and work with most mobile
providers, and as they are SIM free and
tri-band, they are ideal for travelling.
The water-resistant Active has a high-quality silica rubber strap
with stainless steel buckle and a 1.5-inch TFT touchscreen, and
features a video player for movie and music clips, an MP3 player,
WAP browser and camera.
The stylish Signature has a leather strap and steel watchhead, and
like the Active, also provides Bluetooth connectivity and features
the video player, MP3 player,WAP browser and camera.
With an internal memory of 2GB via a mini SD card and the
get to know new zealand unique sWaP operating system, these watches are easy to use and
The wonders down under a real must-have. Available from high street retailers and online
Peter Ellegard
stores including Amazon (www.amazon.co.uk), they cost £299.99

off the beaten track bali for the Active and £349.99 for the Signature.
Indonesia’s enchanting holiday island
● You can WIN an amazing Active watch worth £299.99 by
Peter Ellegard
escape to venice entering our competition. Just go to www.tlm-magazine.co.uk,

Gondolas, canals, masks and history click on the competitions and giveaways button and answer this
simple question:
on your doorstep Question: What does sWaP stand for?
Walking with dinosaurs on the Terms and conditions apply. Closing date June 30, 2010.
Jurassic Coast
ENIT
pack your clubs App fab

Playing England’s Golf Coast A series of city guide apps for iPhones is being
VisitBritiain
– the North West launched by Conde Nast Traveller this summer.

Content has been specially commissioned for
london life Rome, New York, Barcelona and Paris, with the
England’s Golf Coast
London’s villages guides priced at £5.99 each including GPS,

Augmented Reality and searchable listings for food
let’s try and drink, where to stay, shopping, nightlife and
Going it alone on solo holidays what to do. www.condenast.co.uk.
Visitlondonimages/britainonview
PLUS – all our other regular features, special

offers, competitions and giveaways Bluetooth headsets
Samsung has announced the introduction of stylish, Class 2
Out July 2010 Bluetooth headsets to its UK portfolio.The new range is priced from
under £30 to around £50. Models include the HM1600 and the
Subscribe to tlm and save HM3200. Both units feature Bluetooth version 2.1/Class 2, which
Want to guarantee getting every issue of tlm? Then take out a boosts battery life and offers enhanced security, automatic pairing
subscription: just £10 for 6 issues – a saving of over 30%. Go to and noise reduction. www.samsungmobile.co.uk/
www.tlm-magazine.co.uk for details.

Best for TLmayjune10pp67:T&L 22/5/10 06:35 Page 67
best for ■ hotels
■ Exterior
view of
ornate
Thoresby Hall
factbox
Thoresby Hall Hotel
Thoresby Park,
Nr Ollerton,
Nottinghamshire
Robin Hood NG22 9WH

Tel: 01623 821000
www.warnerleisurehotels.co.uk/
treasure
hotels
best for
● Themed breaks
● Relaxation
● Live entertainment
● Sherwood Forest
Checking out: Thoresby Hall, Nottinghamshire
could do better
● Rooms could do with an
S
ituated on the edge of minutes north of Nottingham, and series of heating and cooling
the ancient and 15 minutes south of Worksop. experiences based on ancient ritu- update
entrancing Sherwood Part of the Warner Leisure als, complemented by a wide
Forest in the heart of Group, the hotel offers adult-only range of salon treatments.
Robin Hood country, short breaks with a wide range of Thoresby offers a range of facilities. Ambassador rooms are
Thoresby Hall Hotel indoor and outdoor activities accommodation to suit all tastes comfortable and well appointed.
and Spa is an architectural treas- available including fencing, cro- and budgets; the historic rooms in A break at Thoresby Hall
ure of a hotel set on a slope over- quet, golf and ballroom dancing. the old Grade I-listed part of the includes a daily full English or
looking a stunning Capability One of Thoresby’s attractions hall offer the chance of a little continental breakfast and a three
Brown view. Although tucked in is its luxurious spa. State of the indulgence, with individual styling. course dinner at one of its three
the heart of the hall’s glorious art facilities offer guests total Signature rooms in the new build- distinctive restaurants, each with
estate, it is easy to get to, being relaxation and an escape from the ing are easily accessible and are its own style.
located close to the A1 just 35 pressures of everyday life with a characterised by modern decor and Peter Lewsey
READER OFFER Thomas, Somerset, the setting for the BBC’s

To the Manor Born and now the centre for a
Save on a relaxing break rare breeds conservation programme. Art

lovers will love Bodelwyddan Castle, in
North Wales, home to the National Portrait
at Warner Leisure Hotels Gallery’s Victorian Collection.

To broaden your horizons, you could opt
for one of many Experience Breaks* with
■ Cricket St lessons in everything from ballroom dancing
Thomas and digital photography to fencing and fishing,
Warner Leisure Hotels specialises in short as well as outings to museums, horse-racing
breaks exclusively for adults with a portfolio and flower shows.
of outstanding properties, including historic For more details or to book, call the
mansions, throughout the UK. Privilege Holiday Club team on Freephone
Now with our special offer, you can save 0800 138 8399 (seven days a week, 9am-
up to 25%* off many of these three-night and 9pm) and quote reference code, HD577, to
four-night breaks in 2010 with a choice of option* in four hotels – plus nightly qualify for these special rates.
seven countryside hotels, including three entertainment and excellent leisure facilities, You can book online using the same
with four-star status, and Warner’s six coastal including indoor heated pools. reference code, and also check the latest
hotels and villages. Prices start at £129* per Some Warner Leisure Hotels are Grade I late availability deals. Go to
person for a three-night weekend break and and II listed buildings, steeped in history and www.warnerleisurehotels.co.uk/phc for
£154*pp for a four-night midweek break. surrounded by acres of beautiful parkland, more information
All Warner Leisure Hotels share a relaxed while others have stunning coastal or
and informal ambience with comfortable countryside settings. terms & conditions
and spacious rooms. Enjoy a full buffet You might opt for Littlecote House, * The above offer is subject to terms &
breakfast each morning, a three-course Berkshire, where King Henry VIII wooed Jane conditions. Go to www.tlm-magazine.co.uk
dinner each evening – with a fine dining Seymour; or see the wildlife at Cricket St and click on Reader Offers for details.

68TLmar-apr10 22/5/10 12:00 Page 2
Best Western
Situated in the centre of Banchory the hotel is ideally

located for touring the North East of Scotland and the City
of Aberdeen. The hotel is within easy walking distance of
Banchory Golf Club and numerous local attractions. Ample
parking to the rear.
* 18 en-suite bedrooms
* 2 lively Bars serving Bar Meals
* 2 Function Suites for Weddings, Dinners and Parties
* Wining and Dining in the restaurant to suit all tastes.
25 High Street, Banchory, Aberdeenshire AB31 5TD
Tel: 01330 824944 theburnett@btconnect.com
www.burnettarms.co.uk

68TLmar-apr10 22/5/10 12:04 Page 3
Norton Grange
Coastal Resort
I Inclusive half board short breaks

I Beautiful secluded setting
I Spectacular Solent views
I En Suite Chalet Accommodation
I Live entertainment & cabaret
I Leisure Facilities
I Exclusively for adults
I Ferry inclusive breaks available.
I Weekend breaks from just £139pppb, quote 22TG8
Halletts Shute, Yarmouth, Isle of Wight PO41 0SD

Tel. 01983 760323 Fax. 01983 760468
www.nortongrange.co.uk
for luxury day spa

and retreats
The Lorrens Ladies Health Hydro

Cary Park, Torquay 01803 329994
www.lorrens-health-hydro.co.uk

O&ATLmay10v1pp70-71:T&L 21/5/10 18:25 Page 70
out & about ■ what’s on and where
Flat out for the Derby
Epsom Downs Racecourse

■ Sea the Stars winning the 2009 Derby
orse-racing is one of the most almost as competitive as the main race of
H glamorous and traditional of sports

and the Investec Derby, the pinnacle
of the English Flat Racing season and one
the day, the Investec Oaks.
The main event, of course, is the princi-
ple race on Saturday, the Investec Derby,
of the most famous races in the world, is a worth £1,250,000 in prize money and
highlight of the British summer social watched by a crowd of up to 125,000 peo-
calendar. ple. From the glamour and sophistication in
The Investec Derby Festival takes place the Queen’s Stand, to the free-to-all carnival
Epsom Downs Racecourse
on Friday, June 4, and Saturday, June 5, at in the middle of the course, Derby Day pro-
Epsom Downs Racecourse. It starts with vides a great day out for everyone.
Ladies Day on the opening day, when the Tickets for the Investec Derby Festival
■ Ladies Day hat Style of the Downs fashion competition, to start from £45; call 0844 848 0197 or visit
find the most stylish lady on course, is www.epsomderby.co.uk.
If you go down to Pleasurewood... Keep it in the family

You can be sure of a few big and take part in all the fun A poll commissioned for
surprises if you attend the Teddy activities for children, including Britain’s first National Family
Bears’ Picnic Party at a colouring competition, face Week last year found that the
Pleasurewood Hills, the east of painting and a prize for the best average family spends just 45
England’s largest theme park, on dressed teddy bear; guests minutes a day together. Now
Saturday, June 12.The popular includes Break Charity mascot, families are being encouraged
theme park in Lowestoft, voted Jeffrey Bear, and Pleasurewoods to spend more quality time
BestVisitor Experience 2009 by Hills’ Woody Bear. together as the second
Suffolk Tourism, is raising funds for Entry to the picnic – from National Family Week gets
local charity, Break which provides 12.30pm to 2pm – costs no under way.The UK’s biggest UK’s bid to make history with
a range of care services for more than the normal entrance celebration of families, it takes an attempt to break the record
children, adults and families in price to the park, including all place between May 31 and June for the largest simultaneous
need. the family favourite rides and 6 and promotes the benefits of three-legged race.Twickenham
You can take your own picnic white-knuckle rollercoasters, a healthy active family life, with Stadium is hosting one of the
which is £14.50 for children more than 5,000 events eight flagship sports days from
aged three to 11 and £16.50 for nationwide during the half term noon, with the race starting at
adults and children over 12. holiday. 3pm. Call 0871 222 2120 or
For more information, call They include the Family visit www.rfu.com for more
Pleasurewood Hills
01502 586000, email Week Picnic, Family Week Film information.

info@pleasurewoodhills.com Day and Family Week Sports To find out about Family Week
or visit the website: Day.Taking place on Saturday, events close to you, visit
■ Teddies’ picnic www.pleasurewoodhills.com. June 5, that will include the www.nationalfamilyweek.co.uk.
Background image: Epsom Downs Racecourse

O&ATLmay10v1pp70-71:T&L 21/5/10 18:26 Page 71
out & about ■ what’s on and where
Grab your wellies – it’s festival season

Summer festivals are as much a
part of the British summer as
unpredictable weather, and June
sees the start of festivals of all
types around the South East.
Pack your rain gear and take
your pick of these:
Festivals Suffolk:
Latitude and more
A new campaign promoting
Suffolk as the UK’s festival
capital, it takes in a host of
events throughout the county.
They include the Pulse Fringe
Festival (May 27-June 12), the
Latitude
63rd Aldeburgh Festival of

Music and the Arts (June 1-27), ■ Kids’ area at Latitude
the Newmarket Festival (July 3-
Westonbirt
11) and the pioneering, annual Fuse Medway takes place at Cheltenham
Latitude Festival (July 15-18). A free arts festival with events Racecourse from June 4-6, with ■ Branching out
The fifth Latitude Festival brings throughout Medway, it takes acts such as the Lightning Seeds
together the best of music, place from June 12-26. Streets, and the Happy Mondays.
theatre, comedy and the arts
over one weekend, when more
open spaces and arts venues in Greenwich Summer Sessions
(www.ticketmaster.co.uk/ Trees
for free
than 700 performers take to greenwichsummersessions),
over a dozen stages and arenas. at the Old Royal Naval College
The Obelisk Arena is the focal from July 21-25, features Jools
point for music. Headlining on Holland and Alison Moyet
Friday will be Florence + the among its line up. And the estonbirt, the
Machine, with Scottish indie
band Belle and Sebastian and
New York chart-topping quartet
Sonisphere Festival
(www.sonispherefestivals.com),
at Knebworth from July 30-
W National Arboretum
near Tetbury, in
Gloucestershire, is launching a
Vampire Weekend leading the August 1, has the likes of Iron Kids Go Free promotion among
way on Saturday and Sunday Maiden, Placebo and Rammstein. its summer events programme. It
respectively. Comedians Ardal includes the June half term
O’Hanlon and Rich Hall Relentless Nass Around the World family event
headline the Comedy Arena. The UK’s biggest action sports in partnership with the BBC’s
Fuse Medway
The festival also features world- and music festival, Relentless Breathing Places campaign.
class theatre productions, with NASS takes place at the Bath There are also special trails
the Royal Opera House and ■ Medway street entertainment and West Showground from July for kids and play maps to explore
Royal Shakespeare Company 9-11 with music acts including an exciting hidden world of natu-
among the highlights.The Chatham, Gillingham, Strood, ral play areas, including dens,
floating Waterfront Stage Rainham and Rochester will be forts and, of course, trees for
showcases leading dance filled with exciting, innovative climbing.
troupes and features a double and inspiring artists, including June 1-3, 10.30am-4pm, nor-
bill by Sadler’s Wells on the extraordinary Velodrone in mal admission for adults, kids go
Relentless Nass
Saturday and Sunday – and a 30- Rochester Castle Gardens, free.

minute excerpt of cult 60s involving audience peddle Other summer events include
musical Hair, featuring the 2009 power to create music, while ■ Relentless Nass 2009 concerts by James Morrison on
Tony-Award winning cast direct professional cyclists generate Sunday, July 18 and Blondie on
from Broadway. For event and complementary sounds. Wiley and Bowling for Soup. It Sunday, June 20 as part of the
ticket details go to www.fusefestival.org.uk also features the UK’s first ever Forestry’s Commission Live
www.latitudefestival.co.uk. World Cup Skateboard Music series.
For more information on Music festivals Competition and the Relentless For more details of Westonbirt
Suffolk’s festivals, go to The family Wychwood Festival NASS BMX Street Competition. events, call 01666 880220 or
www.festivalsuffolk.com. (www.wychwoodfestival.com) www.relentlessnass.com check out the online site,
www.forestry.gov.uk/westonbirt.

72TLmay-jun10 22/5/10 12:20 Page 2

72TLmay-jun10 22/5/10 12:24 Page 3

74TLmay-jun10 23/5/10 10:23 Page 1
travel and leisure directory
Budget Accommodation Channel Islands Motor Homes

ALDERNEY, CHANNEL ISLANDS Motorhome hire in Scotland
L’HARAS GUEST HOUSE 2, 4, 5 and 6-berth motorhomes.
Ideal for touring within Scotland and further
Newtown Road,Alderney
Channel Islands GY9 3XP afield. All vehicles are fully equipped (bedding
optional). Our package includes unlimited
All rooms have CH, H&C water,
tea/coffee-making facilities and colour TV; mileage, full insurance, AA cover.
most are en suite. Contact Mrs Jansen. End-of-season motorhome sales
For brochure contact
Tel/Fax: 01481 823174 Brown’s Motorhome Hire, Garrion Bridge
lharas@internet.alderney.gg Larkhall ML9 2UD (nr Glasgow)
www.internet.alderney.gg/lharas/ Tel/Fax: 01698 886255
Northern Cyprus
THE NORTHERN CYPRUS SPECIALISTS

One of the finest Get mor
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tel: 02392 230030

www.cyprusdirectholidays.com
Sailing Holidays
Sailing
Devon
A1 Sailing Mallorca Sea School

Perfect for exploring North Devon and Cornwall
Cottages sleeping 2 to 8, set in a 1.5 acre site, with good facilities
Luxury Sail & Motor Yacht Charter

situated in picturesque parish of Welcombe. Only half a mile from
local beach and pub. Good network of footpaths, taking you through
Devon wildlife conservation areas with plentiful wildlife and flora to
observe, and coasting of Outstanding Natural Beauty.
Please contact for special
discount quoting TLM
France Warm breezes, crystal sea & sunshine

Modern high specification yachts from
32 to 72ft available for charter
• RYA practical & theory courses

• Beginner to Yachtmaster
• Flotilla and bareboat holidays
• Dedicated RYA school boats
Get more enjoyment from sailing
WWW.A1SAILING.LTD.UK
Tel: +34 971 547 986
Email: enquiries@A1Sailing.ltd.uk
To advertise in the travel & leisure magazine please call 01737 735587
66TLapr-mar10 21/5/10 22:10 Page 1
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the travel & leisure magazine

OCEAN COLOUR SCENE

SCILLY LOVE SONG

GOING SOLO win

the travel and leisure magazine

May/June 2010 tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine 3

in the frame ■ picture gallery

Get in the frame

consideration for the gallery, visit

button in the Readers Area.

4 tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine May/June 2010

getting to know ■ the greek islands

6 tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine May/June 2010

getting to know ■ the greek islands

May/June 2010 tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine 7

getting to know ■ the greek islands

of Costas (and Shirley?) serenades you with a bouzouki.

the main island groups

especially for families as it has plenty of good-value

8 tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine May/June 2010

Alonissos - Andros - Corfu - Crete - Cyprus - Kea - Kefalonia - Lefkas - Lesvos

Over 260 villas, apartments, cottages and family-run hotels

getting to know ■ the greek islands

■ Background image: Sani Resort Beach. (Planet Holidays)

islands with history

10 tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine May/June 2010

getting to know ■ the greek islands

Ionian Island Holidays

■ Romantic dinner on Mykonos ■ The old town centre, Rhodes

Santorini. This was the site of a massive volcanic dodecanese islands

May/June 2010 tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine 11

getting to know ■ the greek islands

■ Windsurfing off Rhodes

12 tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine May/June 2010

May/June 2010 tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine 13

May/June 2010 tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine 15

■ The History Museum

which portrays Russian history and culture, to smaller,

16 tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine May/June 2010

coffeeshops have been selling cannabis since the 1970s

May/June 2010 tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine 17

18 tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine May/June 2010

20 tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine May/June 2010

A online vintage store has some

Bright eyes fragrance and have an

May/June 2010 tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine 21

The age-old predicament of taking too many shoes on

When you are short of space, these mini titanium

22 tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine May/June 2010

May/June 2010 tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine 23

let’s try ■ voluntourism

Hands Up Holidays founder Christopher Hill.

May/June 2010 tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine 25

let’s try ■ voluntourism

combined with sightseeing and relaxation. Its most pop-

■ A bear in the in Mexico,

26 tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine May/June 2010

let’s try ■ voluntourism

with The Adventure Company. excluding flights and a $110 national

May/June 2010 tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine 27

let’s try ■ voluntourism

The Adventure Company