Appliance*
By James Knochel
http://radialappliance.teslabox.com
May 21st, 2010
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Copyright 2010 James Knochel. All Rights Reserved Worldwide. No portion of this report
may be reproduced in any format whatsoever without the expressed written permission of the
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Introduction
When I was doing everything I possibly could to restore my health years ago, I found a
diagram by an old Radial Appliance builder about what goes into the device said to be
"good for EVERYONE!" It didn't seem all that complex, and I got the feeling that I could
build Edgar Cayce's Radial Appliance myself.
I went to a college with a very strong engineering program, and have always been a
tinkerer and do-it-yourselfer. Furthermore, I needed Cayce's Radial Appliance, and the
website said that the "Official" A.R.E. supplier's Radial Appliance was improperly built.
Baar sells two versions of their "Radiac" - the regular one, and one with "extra charcoal".
This is suspicious - let the buyer beware! Anyways...
The Radial Appliance, as designed by Edgar Cayce, has only a handful of parts, and all
are essential. These are Carbon Steel, single strength glass, plate carbon or graphite,
masking tape, charcoal, binding posts, wires, nickel-silver plates, and a container.
I contacted my college friend (a biomedical engineer) about obtaining materials, and
how to cut them to form. He gave me a few ideas, and I eventually figured the rest out
for myself.
But building this device wasn't nearly as easy as I thought it'd be. It was several months
before I had the core assembled to try the Radial Appliance for myself, and it was years
before I learned all the secrets to putting together a professional product.
Without further ado, here's the diagram I found years ago. There are some important
considerations which I will be covering later in these instructions.
content. That's six-tenths of 1%. Here is what Wikipedia has to say about Steel and
Carbon Steel:
Steel is an alloy consisting mostly of iron, with a carbon content between 0.2%
and 2.1% by weight, depending on the grade.
Carbon steel, also called plain carbon steel, is steel where the main alloying
constituent is carbon. The American Iron and Steel Institute (AISI) defines carbon
steel as: "Steel is considered to be carbon steel when no minimum content is
specified or required for any other element. Steel with a low carbon content has
properties similar to iron. As the carbon content rises, the metal becomes harder
and stronger but less ductile and more difficult to weld. In general, higher carbon
content lowers the melting point and its temperature resistance. ...
High carbon steel
[1]
Approximately 0.60.99% carbon content.
Very strong, used for springs and
[8]
high-strength wires.
The diagram above calls for C1060 steel. This is a grade of steel that is supposed to
have .6% carbon. At one time there was a document posted at Baar.com in response to
concerns that the Radiac was improperly built. To respond to this criticism, Baar sent
their steel off for analysis by an independent lab. The report said that Baar's steel had
.58% carbon, fitting the classification for C1060.
This is so important: C1060 steel MIGHT NOT have .6% carbon! Here's a quote from
Alro Steel regarding one of their products (emphasis added):
Carbon Plates
The plates of carbon which surround the glass and steel cores are made of "motor brush
grade" carbon or extruded graphite (which is a slightly different form of carbon) .
I had to call a dozen machine shops before I found an old man with old equipment who
was willing to cut my 12" square plates of carbon down to size. When I watched him
perform the cuts, I instantly knew why everyone else turned me down: cutting plate
carbon/graphite creates a lot of dust! This dust gets into the machinery, possibly causing
premature equipment failure.
Find a graphite supplier that will cut the carbon pieces to size for you. The pieces should
be 5" long and 1/4" thick. One piece should be 1/2" wide, while the other should be the
thickness of two pieces of steel, two pieces of single strength glass, and two pieces of
1/4"-thick carbon.
The diagram above uses the wrong dimension for the large piece of carbon. Single
strength glass is just less than 1/8" thick.
Here are the dimensions of the pieces that I order:
1/4" x 1/2" x 5"
1/4" x 1-3/16" x 5"
You will need two of each.
Masking Tape
Buy good masking tape. I use Scotch 3M Masking Tape for General Painting, #2050. This
is just slightly less than 2" wide. Cheap masking tapes are more difficult to work with.
Try not to overlap on the sides. A little overlap around the top and bottom seems to be
okay. Poke holes where the holes in the steel are, and screw in the binding posts.
Charcoal
All-natural charcoal, such as that used for a barbeque, may be crushed to small granule
size. Do not use the powder that is generated. Charcoal briquettes are a composite, and
are not suitable for use in the Radial Appliance:
Charcoal briquettes are made of two primary ingredients (comprising about 90% of
the final product) and several minor ones. One of the primary ingredients, known
as char, is basically the traditional charcoal, as described above. It is responsible
for the briquette's ability to light easily and to produce the desired wood-smoke
flavor. The most desirable raw material for this component is hardwoods such as
beech, birch, hard maple, hickory, and oak. Some manufacturers also use
softwoods like pine, or other organic materials like fruit pits and nut shells.
The other primary ingredient, used to produce a high-temperature, longlasting fire, is coal. Various types of coal may be used, ranging from subbituminous lignite to anthracite.
Minor ingredients include a binding agent (typically starch made from corn, milo,
or wheat), an accelerant (such as nitrate), and an ash-whitening agent (such as
lime) to let the backyard barbecuer know when the briquettes are ready to cook
over.
uncured epoxy will 'drip' down the sides of the container into the charcoal. Allow the
epoxy to harden for 2 full days before touching - the surface may still be soft even after
24 hours.
Assembly
Once you've obtained all the needed supplies, assemble as shown in the diagram.
Before assembling the Radial Appliance, it helps to balance your body's subtle energy
systems. Grounding is especially important - go outside and hug a tree, or massage your
feet. Correct for homolateral energies and thump Kidney 27 to get the meridians all
moving in the right direction.
These energetic corrections are critically important if you're going to assemble a Radial
Appliance for someone else. Whatever imbalances a person has may become imprinted
in the device they assemble. You don't have to be in perfect health to put an appliance
together - you just need to be grounded and centered before you handle the materials.
Put the carbon/steel/glass core together first. Arrange the parts as shown in the
diagram, and hold these together with a single layer of masking tape. Screw the binding
posts in, then place the core in the container such that the binding posts are just below
the opening. Add charcoal to fill in the empty space, then seal the surface with hot glue.
Finally, make the hot glue surface smooth by 'baking' the Radial Appliance in an oven
preheated to 255 degrees Fahrenheit. After the appliance cools, a layer of epoxy may be
applied.
If you need more visual aid, I refer you to the DVD I've made to complement the Radial
Appliance kit: Building Edgar Cayce's Radial Appliance. Some people are highly visual,
and need to see the process in action so they'll know exactly what to do.
Costs
Now that you have Edgar Cayce's instructions for building the Radial Appliance, we also
must cover one other important consideration: costs.
Because you've studied the plans, you know that there are no fewer than 15 individual
components, and the only ones you can buy at Wal-Mart are masking tape and wire.
It took me four months of shopping before I had all 15+ parts. I was able to buy some
items locally, and spent a lot of money on shipping. Every non-local supplier charges
$10-$30 to get their item to you.
If you have your own machine shop you can do most of the work yourself. But how
many people have an industrial band saw, mill and drill press in their basement?
Here's what you're looking at for parts:
Graphite: $100
Steel: $30-50+
Drill bits, taps: $15
Nickel Silver Washers: $50-100+
Wires, banana plugs, binding posts: $12
Square Brass tube: $10-$100
Charcoal: $10-$100
misc: $???
While the individual parts aren't all that expensive, I've spent hundreds more on
shipping, machine shops, and finishing. Cost-per-appliance does decrease if you build
more than one - economists call this phenomenon "economies of scale". My 7 prototype
appliances cost me ten times as much to finish as the next 50 did - this is why I'm able
to offer such a deal on the kits.
Radial Appliance Kits may be purchased through the Teslabox Store.