How to Build Edgar Cayce's Radial

Appliance*

(*originally known as the Radio-Active Appliance)

By James Knochel
http://radialappliance.teslabox.com
May 21st, 2010

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may be reproduced in any format whatsoever without the expressed written permission of the
author. All violators will be

Introduction
When I was doing everything I possibly could to restore my health years ago, I found a
diagram by an old Radial Appliance builder about what goes into the device said to be
"good for EVERYONE!" It didn't seem all that complex, and I got the feeling that I could
build Edgar Cayce's Radial Appliance myself.
I went to a college with a very strong engineering program, and have always been a
tinkerer and do-it-yourselfer. Furthermore, I needed Cayce's Radial Appliance, and the
website said that the "Official" A.R.E. supplier's Radial Appliance was improperly built.
Baar sells two versions of their "Radiac" - the regular one, and one with "extra charcoal".
This is suspicious - let the buyer beware! Anyways...
The Radial Appliance, as designed by Edgar Cayce, has only a handful of parts, and all
are essential. These are Carbon Steel, single strength glass, plate carbon or graphite,
masking tape, charcoal, binding posts, wires, nickel-silver plates, and a container.
I contacted my college friend (a biomedical engineer) about obtaining materials, and
how to cut them to form. He gave me a few ideas, and I eventually figured the rest out
for myself.
But building this device wasn't nearly as easy as I thought it'd be. It was several months
before I had the core assembled to try the Radial Appliance for myself, and it was years
before I learned all the secrets to putting together a professional product.
Without further ado, here's the diagram I found years ago. There are some important
considerations which I will be covering later in these instructions.

Considerations for Each of the Component Parts

While the diagram above is a good starting point for building Cayce's Radial Appliance,
there are some very important details which must be adhered to.
Steel
Edgar Cayce consistently specified that the steel should have at least .6% carbon

content. That's six-tenths of 1%. Here is what Wikipedia has to say about Steel and
Carbon Steel:
Steel is an alloy consisting mostly of iron, with a carbon content between 0.2%
and 2.1% by weight, depending on the grade.
Carbon steel, also called plain carbon steel, is steel where the main alloying
constituent is carbon. The American Iron and Steel Institute (AISI) defines carbon
steel as: "Steel is considered to be carbon steel when no minimum content is
specified or required for any other element. Steel with a low carbon content has
properties similar to iron. As the carbon content rises, the metal becomes harder
and stronger but less ductile and more difficult to weld. In general, higher carbon
content lowers the melting point and its temperature resistance. ...
High carbon steel
[1]
Approximately 0.60.99% carbon content.
Very strong, used for springs and
[8]
high-strength wires.
The diagram above calls for C1060 steel. This is a grade of steel that is supposed to
have .6% carbon. At one time there was a document posted at Baar.com in response to
concerns that the Radiac was improperly built. To respond to this criticism, Baar sent
their steel off for analysis by an independent lab. The report said that Baar's steel had
.58% carbon, fitting the classification for C1060.
This is so important: C1060 steel MIGHT NOT have .6% carbon! Here's a quote from
Alro Steel regarding one of their products (emphasis added):

Carbon Steel Plate

C1060 Hot Rolled
Description
C1060 is silicon killed with a higher carbon content for greater strength. Strength
can be improved in the lighter and medium thicknesses by heat treatment.
Machinability is good, while forming and welding properties are limited. Carbon
content is .55-.65
In the last Radial Appliance reading in the 1800-series, Edgar Cayce recommended Tool
Steel. In an earlier reading tool steel was not recommended, but the state of steel
technology apparently changed. Or maybe there was some other reason.
When I was building my prototype Radial Appliances, I couldn't find a small supply of
C1060 (as directed by the diagram and other radial appliance plans). After much
contemplation, I decided on a grade of tool steel. It was only years later that I learned
the steel I chose has .7% to .85% carbon. It was a lucky guess.
C1066 to C1075 are acceptable grades of Carbon Steel. Any kind of tool steel may be
experimented with, as long as the carbon content is greater than .6%. My customers are
delighted with their appliances made with tool steel.
Cutting the Steel
To conform with the diagram, the steel must be precisely 1/4" thick, 1/2" wide, and 5"
long.
Unless you order your steel to size, it will need to be cut to the proper shape. Because
steels with the specified carbon content are very hard, many machine shops will not

want to dull their band saw blades.

Try to order the steel precision ground to 1/4" thick and 1/2" wide. Here is a quote from
McMaster regarding tolerances:
Tolerance
Standard: Material is manufactured to a nominal dimension according to
commonly accepted tolerances. Example: 1/4" Diameter .002".
Precision-Ground: Material is ground to closer tolerances to the nominal
dimension than standard. Example: 1/4" Diameter .001".
Oversize:
Tolerances for width, thickness, length, or diameter are always plus (+),
guaranteeing a minimum size of material above the given nominal dimension.
Includes "oversize cut" items guaranteeing a minimum length of material.
Example: 1/4" Diameter +.0002".
Certain machine shops have a band saw with a lubrication system. This machinery
sprays lubricant on the area that is being cut, which keeps the area cool and prevents
the blade from wearing out prematurely. If your piece of steel has to be cut lengthwise,
try to find a machine shop with this kind of band saw.
Some may want to use a "chop saw" to cut the steel. This is a device with a spinning
blade that can cut many different materials. It will heat the ends of the steel, which
causes the ends of the material to harden and become more difficult to drill. If a chop
saw is used to cut the steel, expect your drill bits to rapidly dull and your taps to break
off inside the steel.
Drilling and Tapping holes in the Steel
The diagram above seems to indicate that a little piece of steel can be welded on to the
5" piece, to allow for "banana plug" jacks to be bolted on. This is incorrect. Cayce
repeatedly specified that there should be NO SOLDERING, BRAZING or WELDING in ANY
of the connections between the steel, the wires, and the nickel-silver plates.
Obtain a few 2.5mm drill bits and drill a hole in the corner of the piece of steel. This
should be in one of the faces that is 1/4" by 1/2". Drill another hole in the exact same
corner of the second piece of steel.
A 'tap' is a drill bit that cuts threads into a hole. Use a M3x.05 tap - this is the proper
size and thread for the Banana Jack Insulated Binding Posts (Radio Shack 274-662) that
will be used to facilitate your connection to the Carbon Steel.
Use a hand tap-wrench to gently cut threads into the 2.5mm hole. Some kind of
lubricant - tool oil, etc - should be used to extend the life of the tap.
Finishing the Steel Bars
After the steel has been cut, drilled and tapped, they should be sanded to remove burrs
and any rust that has grown between the machining and Appliance assembly. If you
have a belt sander it can be used, otherwise sandpaper works too.
Single Strength Glass
Any picture-frame shop will have this item. Ask them to cut it to to shape for you,
making certain that it is no more than .50" wide. If the glass is .51" wide, the Steel/
glass/carbon assembly will not fit together properly.

Carbon Plates
The plates of carbon which surround the glass and steel cores are made of "motor brush
grade" carbon or extruded graphite (which is a slightly different form of carbon) .
I had to call a dozen machine shops before I found an old man with old equipment who
was willing to cut my 12" square plates of carbon down to size. When I watched him
perform the cuts, I instantly knew why everyone else turned me down: cutting plate
carbon/graphite creates a lot of dust! This dust gets into the machinery, possibly causing
premature equipment failure.
Find a graphite supplier that will cut the carbon pieces to size for you. The pieces should
be 5" long and 1/4" thick. One piece should be 1/2" wide, while the other should be the
thickness of two pieces of steel, two pieces of single strength glass, and two pieces of
1/4"-thick carbon.
The diagram above uses the wrong dimension for the large piece of carbon. Single
strength glass is just less than 1/8" thick.
Here are the dimensions of the pieces that I order:
1/4" x 1/2" x 5"
1/4" x 1-3/16" x 5"
You will need two of each.
Masking Tape
Buy good masking tape. I use Scotch 3M Masking Tape for General Painting, #2050. This
is just slightly less than 2" wide. Cheap masking tapes are more difficult to work with.
Try not to overlap on the sides. A little overlap around the top and bottom seems to be
okay. Poke holes where the holes in the steel are, and screw in the binding posts.
Charcoal
All-natural charcoal, such as that used for a barbeque, may be crushed to small granule
size. Do not use the powder that is generated. Charcoal briquettes are a composite, and
are not suitable for use in the Radial Appliance:
Charcoal briquettes are made of two primary ingredients (comprising about 90% of
the final product) and several minor ones. One of the primary ingredients, known
as char, is basically the traditional charcoal, as described above. It is responsible
for the briquette's ability to light easily and to produce the desired wood-smoke
flavor. The most desirable raw material for this component is hardwoods such as
beech, birch, hard maple, hickory, and oak. Some manufacturers also use
softwoods like pine, or other organic materials like fruit pits and nut shells.
The other primary ingredient, used to produce a high-temperature, longlasting fire, is coal. Various types of coal may be used, ranging from subbituminous lignite to anthracite.
Minor ingredients include a binding agent (typically starch made from corn, milo,
or wheat), an accelerant (such as nitrate), and an ash-whitening agent (such as
lime) to let the backyard barbecuer know when the briquettes are ready to cook
over.

-http://www.madehow.com/Volume-4/Charcoal-Briquette.html (emphasis added)

Some types of water-filter charcoal may also be used. I ordered a 50-pound barrel of
activated Coconut charcoal from a carbon supplier.
The Container
Edgar Cayce usually specified that the container should be made of non-ferrous (nonmagnetic) material. He also said it should be something that would not rust. Usually this
is copper or brass. Obtain a section of copper/brass tube, and solder a piece of flat
material on to make a container with one open end.
The container may be spray painted, powder coated, or left to tarnish naturally. An inner
lip may be soldered on using angled pieces of brass, usually found at a hobby store.
Other container materials may be experimented with, so long as they are non-ferrous.
The Wires
Use any kind of wire. Cayce said to use the thinnest wires available, and that they
should be silk-covered, such as those used in radio. I use red and black speaker wire
from Radio Shack. Because the wires do not carry electrical current in the conventional
sense, the gauge (thickness) of the wires is irrelevant.
The binding posts and banana plugs can be purchased from Radio Shack. The part
numbers are 274-662 and 274-721.
Nickel-Silver Plates
Purchase a sheet of nickel-silver. Have washers stamped out of this sheet, with a 1/8"
hole in the center. I used 1/8" rivets and washers to attach the wires to the plates. 1/8"
bolts/washers/nuts may also be used.
Alternatively, cut a piece of nickel silver into strips about 2" long and 3/4" wide. Drill a
1/8" hole in one end, and bend up the edges. Attach the wire to the nickel-silver with a
rivet or small bolt/washer/nut.
"Non Metalic Epoxy Sealer"
The Radial Appliance should be sealed from the elements. Sometimes the appliance can
fall over in the ice bath (if your container is too big), or it might rain when you have it
outside for 'charging'.
I use multi-temp hot-glue - this glue melts at around 240 degrees. Do not use Hightemp glue, as it only melts at a much higher temperature. Apply the hot glue to the top
of the charcoal. Then place the assembled Radial Appliance in an oven heated to 255
degrees. This will melt the hot glue and create a nice flat surface. Be sure that the glue
extends all the way to the edges of the container.
The hot glue may take 15 minutes to 1/2 hour to fully melt. The surface will be uniform
and glassy-smooth. If you have a good seal, the glue surface will "suck in" as the air
inside the appliance case cools and contracts.
The epoxy top coat is not essential for the appliance - it's mostly a cosmetic detail. If
you want a hard surface, apply 3M DP-270 (black), using the applicator gun and mixing
nozzles (get the short ones). This must be done over the (cooled) hot glue, because

uncured epoxy will 'drip' down the sides of the container into the charcoal. Allow the
epoxy to harden for 2 full days before touching - the surface may still be soft even after
24 hours.

Assembly
Once you've obtained all the needed supplies, assemble as shown in the diagram.
Before assembling the Radial Appliance, it helps to balance your body's subtle energy
systems. Grounding is especially important - go outside and hug a tree, or massage your
feet. Correct for homolateral energies and thump Kidney 27 to get the meridians all
moving in the right direction.
These energetic corrections are critically important if you're going to assemble a Radial
Appliance for someone else. Whatever imbalances a person has may become imprinted
in the device they assemble. You don't have to be in perfect health to put an appliance
together - you just need to be grounded and centered before you handle the materials.
Put the carbon/steel/glass core together first. Arrange the parts as shown in the
diagram, and hold these together with a single layer of masking tape. Screw the binding
posts in, then place the core in the container such that the binding posts are just below
the opening. Add charcoal to fill in the empty space, then seal the surface with hot glue.
Finally, make the hot glue surface smooth by 'baking' the Radial Appliance in an oven
preheated to 255 degrees Fahrenheit. After the appliance cools, a layer of epoxy may be
applied.
If you need more visual aid, I refer you to the DVD I've made to complement the Radial
Appliance kit: Building Edgar Cayce's Radial Appliance. Some people are highly visual,
and need to see the process in action so they'll know exactly what to do.

Costs
Now that you have Edgar Cayce's instructions for building the Radial Appliance, we also
must cover one other important consideration: costs.
Because you've studied the plans, you know that there are no fewer than 15 individual
components, and the only ones you can buy at Wal-Mart are masking tape and wire.
It took me four months of shopping before I had all 15+ parts. I was able to buy some
items locally, and spent a lot of money on shipping. Every non-local supplier charges
$10-$30 to get their item to you.
If you have your own machine shop you can do most of the work yourself. But how
many people have an industrial band saw, mill and drill press in their basement?
Here's what you're looking at for parts:
Graphite: $100
Steel: $30-50+
Drill bits, taps: $15
Nickel Silver Washers: $50-100+
Wires, banana plugs, binding posts: $12
Square Brass tube: $10-$100
Charcoal: $10-$100
misc: $???

While the individual parts aren't all that expensive, I've spent hundreds more on
shipping, machine shops, and finishing. Cost-per-appliance does decrease if you build
more than one - economists call this phenomenon "economies of scale". My 7 prototype
appliances cost me ten times as much to finish as the next 50 did - this is why I'm able
to offer such a deal on the kits.
Radial Appliance Kits may be purchased through the Teslabox Store.