EFFECT OF WORLD WAR IWorld War I put women in the work force and gave those new rights

and
practical clothing.
Although America did not enter the war effort officially until 1917, the
impact of World War I had a paralyzing effect on fashion, and was
responsible for the demise of the corset. American women entered the
workforce in great numbers, providing critical labour in munitions factories
and other jobs previously performed by men. Women were also recruited into
the war effort to satisfy the demand for nurses, ambulance drivers and other
necessary services. In the face of war, fashion became trivial and the corset
was deemed an impractical and awkward device that no longer seemed
appropriate. In fact, to aid the war effort at home, women were discouraged
from purchasing corsets made with steel. The collected effect of the corset
boycott saved 28,000 tons of steel in 1917, enough for two battleships!
World War I had an emancipating affect on women. They were freed from the
bondage of corsets and since many choose employment, were freed from
domestic bondage as well. With these new freedoms came an even greater
one. The growing women's suffrage movement achieved a great victory in
1920 when congress passed the 19th amendment, granting women the right to
vote.

WOMEN IN THE WORKFORCE-The status of women hinged firmly on their

participation in the working world. Before 1900, very few women worked
outside the home. Without prominent place in the business, women had no
authorities and no rights. At the turn of the century women began to work in the
factories, offices and retail stores. The need of convenience of ready -made
clothing made the apparel industry grow and ready to wear even more
acceptable.
During the First World War, fashion underwent drastic changes that led to
The emergence of the contemporary silhouette we still know. Almost
Overnight, fashion magazines rejected the pre-1914 styles as incoherent,
Exaggerated, ridiculous, and so on. Fashion should be rational, practical,
and simple; it should return to French good taste: classical. The major
development that became apparent was not a mere change in trends but a
thoroughly different lifestyle reflected in clothing. Comparing pre-1914
and post-1918 looks reveals the magnitude of these changes.
Womens Expectations and Their Influence on Clothing. The constraints
introduced by wartime on womens everyday lives bring about changes in
dress code, construction of clothes, as well as their spread throughout

society. The three main consequences of these emerging expectations

Were the end of the corset, a new hemline, and adoption of the suit as
women are uniform on the home front. Such changes were in keeping with
Womens longing for more comfort, healthier outfits, and an easier-to-wear
approach to clothing.

In 1914, World War I began in Europe and, in 1917the United State

joined in combat. World War I greatly promoted womens rights because it
enables European and American women to replace male in previously all jobs.
The functional working clothes worn by these women had great impact on
fashion. Now that women work, Vogue reported in 1918, Working clothes
have acquired a new social status and a new chic.
A trends towards masculinity in womens fashion emerged: decorative
details disappeared in favour of tailored look that imitated business suits.
Corsets were discarded and the curved hourglass silhouette was replaced by the
tube. Hemlines rose and skirts widened to permit freedom of movement. No one
wanted or had a time for complicated dressing. This change coincided with the
need to simplify clothing construction because of rising labour costs and
resulted in democratization of fashion. Fashion reflected womens growing
independence. In 1920 women finally won the right to vote in the United State.
IMPORTANT TRENSETTING DESIGNERS- While mass production is
growing in American fashion industry, the French couture still concentrated on
fashion leadership among the wealthy. Paris was the cultural meeting ground for
designers, artists and writers. The exchange of their ideas created the
exceptional atmosphere needed for fashion innovation.
Often one or few designers became trendsetters; they dominated the field
because they were able to capture the spirit of their time and translate into
highly accepted fashion. American retailers brought French fashion for their
wealthy customers and often work with American manufacturers to have them
copied or adapted for the American market.
PAUL POIRET (Pwah-ray) whose tubular dresses liberated women from corset
was the first Paris Couturier of this century to become a trendsetter.

Gabrielle Chanel(Sha-nelle) also known as Coco, was at the forefront of French

fashion following World War I. Chanel popularized the Garcon (garsohn) or
boyish style with sweaters and jerseys dresses and was the first designer to
make high fashion pants for women.
Jean Patou (Gsahn Pa-too) created the famous flapper look in 1925 by
accentuating the hipline, strengthening a straight silhouette, and making shorter
skirts and uneven hemlines. He confirmed that the young, independent women
were the new ideal.
The ready-to-wear apparel industry began to prosper when designer such
as Poiret, Vionnet and Chanel simplified styles and thereby construction.
Couture styles were then copied by mass producers for consumers at every price
level. Because individual fitting was not so important to their straight silhouette,
the mass production dresses became practical. As early as early 1920s,
designers such as Lucien Lelong in France and Hattie Carnegie in America were
adding ready-to-wear to their made-to- order collections. Although custom
made clothing remained important, the 1920s, fashionable ready-to-wear was
firmly established.