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KEEP ON
WINING
Why look elsewhere when we have a whole world of wine right at our doorstep?
Here we check whats the word on the grapevine around Australia.
AUSTRALIAN WINE consumption
continues to rise, which is no surprise
considering the increasing variety and
complexity in Australian wines. The
vineyards and bulk were always there in
the industry, but in the last decade, almost
across the board, theres been an attention to
dragging up the quality, even if that means a
general upward shift in price point, too.
Australian winemakers are known to be
a well-travelled and open-minded bunch,
with a preparedness to experiment and strive
for improvement and development that
the rest of the world can only envy. Local
competition keeps everyone on their toes
and looking to see what the next direction
might be always a good thing.
The current vogue is the emergence
of wines from cooler climate regions,
which is tipping the fashion for big oaky
Chardonnays. Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris
are more likely to be flavour of the day,
and theres also more attention on Riesling.

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Riesling is perhaps an underrated variety


domestically, our perception perhaps tainted
by teenage or early adult memories of the
cheapest, roughest cask wine. Since 2002
theres been a big improvement in Rieslings
all over Australia, and now they sit up there
with the best in the world. The Austrians
may have set the standard for this variety,

AUSSIE WINEMAKERS
ARE A WELL-TRAVELLED
AND OPEN-MINDED
BUNCH, WITH A
PREPAREDNESS TO
EXPERIMENT AND STRIVE
FOR IMPROVEMENT
but Australia actually has more suitable land
for Austrian-style Riesling than Austria has.
The fun is that you can drink Australian
Riesling in its first 18 months or you can put
it away for eight years and then youll have a

completely different wine.


Australia has always had some strong reds,
but now more wineries are developing their
blends or refining their staples, such as the
uniquely Australian Cabernet Sauvignon.
The big two challenges for Australian red
wines now is to cover a wider range and
make premium wines that sit in the same
class as the best the French can offer. Now
theres no need to look at the international
shelves for something special or a tad more
exotic the quality is all here, and many
winemakers are bringing new grape varieties
from Portugal, France and most notably Italy
and Spain.
Here we have a small representation of
whats going on in the barrels of each state,
but remember, the best way to keep up is to
try something new and get drinking.
Thanks to Master of Wine Dr Ron Georgio (wine
consultant to the Hilton hotels in Sydney, Kuala
Lumpur and the Maldives) for some selections.

followgentlemen

8/5/06 6:37:01 AM

BOTTLE PHOTOGRAPHY HELEN WHITE


IMAGE BROWN BROTHERS

Special: Ferngrove The Stirlings 2003: A full-bodied red with a 7129 split of Cab Sav and
Shiraz, The Stirlings has long, layered tannins yet is still a very harmonious wine that goes with
foods such as beef and red meat roasts. It will develop and mature for 58 years. $40+
Keeper: Voyager Estate Cabernet 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot: A great adaptation to a
tough vintage, this is an elegant wine with its delicate tannins, thick dark berry flavours and
smooth finish. Goes well with cheeses and roast game. Best from 2007-2012. $35+
New: Lenton Brae Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2005: A riper style of wine with 60 per cent
Semillon providing weight and depth. Best drunk within the first two years, although the wine
will soften and develop a honeyed, toasty character if cellared longer in the right conditions.
This has been the consistent trophy and gold medal winner for Lenton Brae, but Master of
Wine Dr Ron Georgio also recommends their Cabernet Merlot. $20+
Dining: Wignalls Pinot Noir 2005: Dr Georgio likes Wignalls for its consistently high quality
Pinot Noir. It has a soft, subtle body thats gently complemented by tannins, making it a great
complement to food, especially grilled meats. Quite easy to find on restaurant wine lists. $24+
Entertaining: Forest Hill 2005 Semillon Sauvignon Blanc: Quite light and clean for a Semillon,
this wine is fresh and dry on the palate, which can make it great with spicy food. $14 approx.

BOTTLE PHOTOGRAPHY HELEN WHITE

OPPOSITE PAGE: VINEYARD, COONAWARRA, IMAGE SOUTH AUSTRALIAN TOURISM COMMISSION

WESTERN
AUSTRALIA
MARGARET RIVER is still the big name
in WA, but there are other regions to watch
for. Just to the north theres the newer wine
region of Geographe, which is developing
good Shiraz and Semillon. The Swan Valley/
Perth Hills area is producing many value
wines while south in the Frankland River
and Denmark regions, especially the Riesling
and Sauvignon Blanc for the whites and
Shiraz and Cabernet for the reds. But you
cant ignore the 100-plus Margaret River
wineries. Microclimates that range from
hot in the north to chilly and windy in the
south make for huge variety. Chardonnay,
Semillon and Semillon/Sauvignon blends
are the best in whites, while the Cabernets
match the worlds best Bordeaux wines.

VICTORIA
Special: Star Lane 2003 Merlot: Dr Georgio says this is one of the best Merlots in the country,
and this wine proves that straight Merlots can be an incredibly smooth, versatile red when
done well. At Star Lane, the fruit has been ripened slowly to create intense fruit flavours and
deep colour. Best decantered an hour before drinking. $70 approx.
Celebration: Domaine Chandon Vintage Brut ZD 2002: Green Point Wines is the Australian
base for Mot and Chandon and 2002 was an excellent vintage for Chardonnay and Pinot
Noir. The ZD stands for zero dosage, which translates to a bone-dry style with a long finish,
although it still has a lovely creaminess. The crown seal eliminates the risk of cork taint. $30+
Dining: TGallant Juliet 2005 Pinot Grigio: An Italian variety that is considered to be the
ultimate food wine. It has a clean, savoury palate and soft body. TGallant has really matched
the right grapes to the climate and terroir and fewer restrictions on winemaking here than in
Italy could soon see them threatening the Italians. $20 approx.
New: Scorpo Pinot Gris 2005: This is Dr Georgios pick for Victorian Pinot Gris, coming
from a meticulously planted tiny packet of land on the Mornington Peninsula. Its all flowers
and spice, with rich flavours. Should be a hit with Chardonnay lovers, although the flavours
are more flamboyant. $29+
Entertaining: Brown Brothers 2005 Moscato: Ever the experimenters, Brown Brothers have
used an Italian grape to make a low-alcohol (5.5%) wine thats zingy with tropical fruits on the
palate and a light, frizzante for a refreshing finish. $15 approx.

VICTORIA HAS SOME GREAT wineries


right on Melbournes doorstep, among them the
great cellar door at Domaine Chandon/Green
Point winery in the Yarra Valley. The enormous
restaurant has an astonishing design that allows
remarkable views to the picture postcard
vineyards. Even the incredible Old World
Cellar is used for functions and concerts. On
the other side of the city theres the Mornington
Peninsula, a cool-climate region packed with
more than 70 small producers, some doing
great things with Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and
Chardonnay. Lovers of stickies should get out
further and explore the Muscats and Tokays of
the Rutherglen and Glenrowan region, which
are easy on the pocket, too. In the King Valley
in the north-east, Brown Brothers are boldly
experimenting with grape varieties from Italy,
Spain and Portugal. The other star of this
area is Beechworth, where they make some of
Australias best Chardonnays, but also excel at
Pinot, Cabernet, Shiraz and Roussanne.

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BOTTLE PHOTOGRAPHY HELEN WHITE

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BOTTLE PHOTOGRAPHY HELEN WHITE

IMAGE JANSZ

Special: Clonakilla Shiraz Voignier 2005: Legendary thats Dr Georgios description for this
Shiraz Voignier. It has complex aroma of layered spices, with fine tannins and a rather gamey
taste. It will improve with ageing, especially beyond the 10-year mark. $85+
Keeper: 3 Bridges Durif 2003: Durif is a dry red-lovers delight, a French variety that does
well in the Riverina region. This one is intense, rich with a big tannic feel. It goes well with rich
red meat or game roasts and casseroles and ages well in the medium to long term. $30+
New: Lowe Zinfandel 2004: This notoriously fickle and demanding variety deserves some
exploration done well, it explodes with black fruit, vanilla and spices. Lowe obviously
does Zinfandel well their 2003 vintage won the International Zinfandel Trophy at the
International Wine Challenge in London. All stock sold out, so grab the 2004 soon. $28 approx.
Dining: Indigo Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2005: Dr Georgio considers Indigo Ridge near
Orange a safe bet for its consistently high quality Sauvignon Blanc. A particularly foodfriendly wine, its ideal with spicy foods and all fish dishes. It has an excellent acid freshness,
good length, and is made from insecticide-free grapes. Can be aged for 3-5 years. $20+
Entertainer: Rosemount Estate Roxburgh Chardonnay 2002: The Roxburgh vineyard, in the
Upper Hunter, bears some of the oldest and most respected Chardonnay vines in the whole of
Australia. This perennial award winner is soft yet dense, brimming with fruit flavours, oaky
notes and it has a long finish. This vintage is at its peak drinking now.

ORANGE IS THE REGION to keep an eye


on, with its high altitude Sauvignon Blanc,
Chardonnay, Shiraz, Cabernet and Merlot all
looking the goods Sydney restaurants are
snapping up the regions small estate wines.
The Riverina/Griffith region, while home to
De Bortoli (maker of that great sticky, Noble
One), has also been the base for a lot of the
bottom end wines, but the quality is coming,
especially among the dry reds. The Canberra
region has a couple of stars that are probably
better recognised in the UK than here. The
first is Clonakilla, known for its expert Shiraz
and Voignier, while Lark Hill specialise in
Pinot and Chardonnay. But lets not forget
the Hunter. The Lower Hunter pumps out
award-winning dry Semillon thats always up
for ageing 10 years or more. In the Upper
Hunter, Chardonnay, Shiraz and Cabernet
are also done extremely well.

TASMANIA
TASMANIAN PINOT GRAPES must think
theyre back home in Burgundy, thanks to the
chilly climate, ample rain and brief flashes of
sunshine. This is what Tasmanian wineries
consistently do best, with Pinot-based, clean
and dry sparkling wines doing very well in
the international market, even if theyre not
particularly well known here. Other cool-climate
varieties such as Riesling and Gewrtz do very
well, too. For something out of the blue, try the
Cabernet and Merlot from Domaine A - these
varieties really have no right to be this far south,
but it lends credence to the theory that if you
really push the vines and struggle hard, you can
come up with something quite edgy.

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Special: Domaine A Cabernet Sauvignon 2000: The flagship wine thats only produced in
vintages considered to be a particularly high standard. This has a long and persistent finish
and more intense cassis and berry flavours than its warmer-weather counterparts. $69+
New: Meadowbank Henry James Pinot Noir 2004: A typically Tasmanian Pinot Noir, with
a rich fruit intensity that matures in complexity if you can be strong and put it away for a few
years. The nice balance and comfortable medium weight make that a hard thing to do. $41+
Dining: Stefano Lubiana Riesling 2005: A great vintage for Riesling, this fresh, crisp wine has
loads of floral characters. It goes well with lightly spiced Asian food, and will develop for up to
15 years in the cellar. Dr Georgio also recommends their Pinot Noir and sparkling. $26+
Celebration: Jansz Premium 2001 Vintage: A rich, piquant sparkling with a creamy softness.
Four years ageing on yeast lees gives the wine a classic yeast complexity, making it standout at
this price point. The cool climate and ancient volcanic soils at Jansz have proved a winner for
Pinot Noir and Jansz has sold well internationally. $39+
Entertaining: Meadowbank 2005 Sauvignon Blanc: A fiendishly drinkable wine with
remarkably strong floral and fruit aromas. Crisp and easily adaptable, this is a good wine for
summery food and seafood. $27.50 approx.

followgentlemen

8/5/06 6:37:59 AM

YALDARRA ESTATE, LYNDOCH, BAROSSA


FAR LEFT:

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IMAGES SOUTH AUSTRALIAN TOURISM COMMISSION

Investment: Saltram Estate The 8th Maker 2002 Shiraz: 2002 produced some of the best wines
in living memory at Saltram - this is the best of the best, the senior winemakers own journey for
excellence. The 2002 is as full as blood, smooth as silk, a complex wine with rich oak notes and
aromas of blackcurrant and liquorice. Only 1500 boxes of eight were sold. Best after 2012. $240
Keeper: Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz 2003: Bin 389 is often referred to as Poor Mans
Grange or Baby Grange, in part because components of the wine are matured in the same
barrels that held the previous vintage of Grange. Rich and mouthfilling, its an easy-handling
wine with prominent tannins and a sweet mid-palate that melts to a lingering finish. Peak
drinking 20082015. $41 approx.
New: Kabminye Schliebs Block 2003: Kabminye is a Barossa relatively new winery going out
on a limb with some unusual blends, such as this 50/24/24 split of Mourvedre, Carignan and
Cinsault. Its a soft, easy-drinking, lighter style of wine with enough smooth, unobtrusive tannin.
A great food wine. $32+
Entertainer: Leo Buring Eden Valley Riesling 2005: A top-class cheapie that is a fine example of
brilliant modern Eden Valley Rieslings, with their delicate perfume and crystal-clear citrusy fruit
backed up with hints of musk and spice. It has a powerful taste and leaves the palate cleansed
and invigorated. $15+
Special: Wolf Blass Black Label Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 2001: The flagship of Wolf Blass is a
blend of the best grapes of the vintage - the Shiraz from the Barossa, McLaren Vale and Adelaide
Hills, the Cab Sav from McLaren Vale. With its rich, ripe fruit characteristics and complex hints
of smokey oak, this velvety wine will be even better after 2011. $100$120

WYNNS VINEYARD, COONAWARRA, LIMESTONE COAST

IT SEEMS UNFAIR not to have three


pages solely devoted to South Australia,
as SA accounts for over half of Australias
entire wine output. But its not all about
volume. In the warm Barossa Valley the
ancient bush vines - well over 100 years
old and unirrigated in many cases - are the
grandfathers of the Australian wine industry
and produce incredibly intense and sought
after wines, especially inky-rich reds. On
the other hand, the state also has more than
its share of high altitude, cooler climate
regions such as Eden Valley and the Clare
Valley, traditionally home to Australias
most famous Rieslings. Its worth looking
out for Clare Valley labels in your bottle
shop, as the wines are often great value for
money, while still being very age-worthy.
The Shiraz is especially underrated, yet still
holds well in the cellar for over a decade.
The Adelaide Hills region is producing many
European-shaped wines that are finding
their way onto restaurant wine lists all over
the country, while McLaren Vale keeps a
lower profile, especially in relation to big
brother Barossa. McLaren Vale is a premium
red-wine region, and its Shiraz, Cabernet
and Grenache have less heat and power than
most Barossa reds, plus a fantastic balance.
They really are underrated. Its also worth
a look at the Coonawarra region, which is
world famous for its Cabernet that can last
up to 15 years and is well appreciated for its
intense blackcurrant flavours.
Wine lovers should be aware that South
Australia has a huge variation in weather
from year to year, which makes for big
differences from vintage to vintage. This just
further emphasises that theres always a new
experience to be had with South Australian
wines and more often than not, it will be a
great one.

BOTTLE PHOTOGRAPHY HELEN WHITE

SOUTH
AUSTRALIA

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