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EASTEEN LIFE AND SCENERY
VOL.
11.
Digitized by the Internet Archive

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EASTERN LIFE AND SCENERY
EXCURSIONS IN ASIA MINOR, MYTILENE,

CRETE,
AND ROUMANIA
WALKER
By Mrs.
IN
TWO
VOLIBIES
VOL.
LONDON:
II.
CHAPMAN AND EALL

Limited
188C
787553.
LowDOic:
PRINTED BT
J. 8.
VIRTTTK
AWD
CITY RUAD.
CO., LIMITSD,
CONTENTS TO VOL.
I.FESTIVITIES
II.
m THE HAREM.
The Talika, The Mistress of

Ceremonies. Zeheira. The State Couch. Scenic EfRich Presents. Jew Mountebanks. The Bastinado. Dinner. Bouyouroun. How to Vanquish a
Stuffed Lamb. Zerde-pillaw. Khoshab. From behind
the Cafesses." Tastes Diflfer."The Kiosk in the Vineyards. Rest
Preparations for the Festival.

fects.
II. THE BETROTHAL OF DJENANIAH CALPHA.

A Valuable " Halaik."Difficult Courtship and " Kismet."
Ceremony of the " Nikyah " (the betrothal). The
Imam's Questions. The Marriage Contract. The Shower
of Coin. Gifts of Jewellery. Fear of the Evil Eye
The
III.TAKING
Bridal
HOME THE
15
BRIDE.
and Bridal Furniture. -Oppressive Finery

the Face Jewels and the Grolden Veil.
Decorated " Talikas." The Bride's Throne. Free and
Candid Criticisms. The Prayer Carpet. A Peaceful
The New Name.
Gifts
Homo
21
rV. UNDERGROUND STAMBOUL.
Yere-Batan- Serai. The Mysterious Lake. A Palace of the

*'
Djinns." Lukium. The Cistern of the Hippodrome.
Bin-Bir-Direk. The Cistern of Theodosius. The
Cistern of Arcadius. Tchukur Bostin. The Cistema of
CONTENTS.
Ti
Bonus, of the Emperor Anastasius, of the Church of Vantocrator, of Boudroum Djami, of St. John Studius.
.
Massive Subterranean Remains. Fazli Pasha
29
v.TURKISH HOME LITE.

The Harem.
Slavery
VI.A
37
WINTER IN THE SUNNY EAST.
A Snowstorm.^The
Fancies and Facts. Â Dog's Luxury.

Hurricane.
Pleasure and Peril.
the Cry of the Night Guardian.
" Yangheun Varl''

A Half-Buried City.
Stagnation. The Fear of Famine. The Black Sacks,
The Snow-clothed "Sunny East.'' Great Disasters in
Asia Minor. Wild Boars and Wolves in the Suburbs.
The Fatal Snowdrifts. Disasters at Sea. An Impromptu
" Montague Russe." Street Modelling. A Thaw and a
Breath of Sununer
VII.THE
........
77
ART OF LIVING, ACCORDING TO

GREEK FOLK-LORE.
How to Dismiss a Visitor Politely.The

Further Value of Slippers.
" Na Na " Giving and Taking. SpUt Salt must be
Peppered. The Danger of a Half -open Door. Sad Consequences of Sitting on a Box. Unwinding a SpelL
The Risk of Tying up a Destiny. How Vinegar becomes
Musty. An Easy Way of Ensuring Custom. How to
Mend a Broken Head. Great Dangers connected with
the "Wash" of a Household. Three-legged Trivets
have Grave Responsibilities. Awful Result of Open
Scissors. The Three Cloves. The Danger of Hasty
Compliments. ^The Evil Eye
Baleful Day.
use of Salt in a Slipper.

!
VIII.BROUSSA
93
IX. THE BATHS OF BROUSSA.

NO.
I.
Contrast in Beauties of Broussa and the Bosphorus. Getting

on Board. ^Travellers and their Bags. The Harem of
85
vu
CONTENTS.
Boat. Our Small Party. The Princes' Islands.

The Gulf of Nicomedia. The Open Marmora. Dislocated Perspective. Collapse. The **Talika." WindingRoads and Leafy Lanes. The *' Durbend." Luxuriant
'* TcheVeg-etation.
Beautiful View from the Bridge.
kirghe."The Baths. "Hotel du Mont Olympe."
Giovanni. A String of Camels. Fine View from the
Hotel. Exploring Adventures. The Jews' Quarter.
The Ruined "Fabrika." In the Bazaars. Kutaya Pottery.
Sketching under Difficulties. Cream Ices. The
.110
Heavenly Valley. View from the Mills
the
X. THE BATHS OF BROUSSA.

NO. n.
TCHEKIBGHE.
The View and the Passers-by. The Trysting Tree. A Sober Traveller. A "Wild Zebek. A Santon. Hawks and Storks. A Start. The Mouradiyeh
Suburb. The Mosque and
Surroundings. An Aggressive Umbrella. Rustic Fountains. The "Kief."
Bademli Bagtche. Yeni-Kaplidja Hammam. Cypresses. Tchekirghe. Eski -Kaplidja Hammam. The
Mountain Trout.
its
Mosque of Mourad I. A Foimtain of Hot and Cold Water.

The Sultan's "Tonghra." Interior of the Mosque.
The Ruined "Turbe." A Flowery Lane. A Rustic
Resting-place. The Mineral Waters of Eski-Kaplidja
XL BROUSSA
KG.
141
SILK.
I.
Eastern Method of Rearing Silkworms. Difficulties of InSensitiveness of the Worm. Value of Mulvestigation.
and of Silkworm Seed. Great Care Needed.

The First Sleep. A Healthy Appetite. The Sec-ond
The Third Sleep. Voracity. Repose and Work.
Sleep.
berry-leaves,
The Miniature Grove. A Fairy Hamac. The Cocoon.
Silk-rearing
Establishment at Demirdesch. Frames

used in Removal. The Moths. The "Graineurs."
The Riches of a Peasant that " Make themselves Wings."
The Public Ovens. The Quality of the Water used in
Washing
the Silk
170
VIU
CONTENTS.
XII. BROUSSA SILK.
NO. n.
THE
SPINNING FACTOEIES.
Spinning "Fabrika." Unpleasant Odour from the Boiling Cocoons.

Native Workgirls. Their Pay. Clever
Broussa Gauze. HandWorkers. The Finished Hank
kerchiefs. Towelling. The Bath Bomous.
" Burund180
jik"
XIII.THE
MINERAL BATH.
A Shifting Crowd. The
The Yeni-Kaplidja Hammam.
Djamekian, or Robing-room. The Hammamdji. The

Sookluk. Screened Compartments and Dwelling-rooms.
Great Heat of the Springs. Picturesque Scene in the
Djamekian.
Youth and Age.
Swing Cradles.
Ceremonious
Betrothal Party.
Two Brides Elect.
''Sela'ams." A Handsome Swimming-bath. Mosaics
and Coloured Tiles. A Beautiful Bather. Touching
186
Solicitude for an Aged Negress
XIV.THE PEARL OF THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO.

Mythology and Legend. The Home of Erinna. Genoese
Castles. An Open Roadstead. Fine View from the
A Prosperous Island Careful Cultivation

Lesbian Wine. The Harbours. Fine
Harbour of Hiera. Valuable Hot Springs. The Tomb
of Baatib Oglon. His Fate. A Ruined Teke and Cemetery. Curious Epitaphs. Bahhl Ghenghizz Khan, the
last Prince of the Crimea. Beauty of the Mytileniotes.
Promontory.
of
the Olive.
The Daughters and their Fortunate

Laws. Custom stronger than Law
Destiny.
XV.ROUMANIAN MONASTERIES,
no.
Unequal
.
i.
.19
.
XVI.ROLTtfANIAN MONASTERIES.
ADAM,
NO. n.
JASSY.
From Bucharest to Berlad. Jewish Coachmen. A "Foolwoman." Monastery of Adam. The "Fundarik."
The Maica.
The
Maica
The Call
Staritza.
to Servace
299
CONTENTS.
IX
by the ** Bar and MaUet." Interior of the Church and

Costume of the Nuns. Church Ornaments. Comfort-
able
Homes
of the Maicas,
their Confectionery,
their
The New Monastic Regiilations. In the Staritza's Gkrden. The Procession and
the Prayers for Rain. A worthy Lady Superior. An
Early Drive. An inevitable "Difficulty." SoothingScenery. At Jassy Great Jewish Population. BeautiIndustry, and their Dress.
ful old
Church, Trei Sfetitili.St. Nicholas
.216
XVII.ROUMANIAN MONASTERIES.
AND
NO. in.
The Monastery of Secu. The Parente
Arfimdrah. Hospitality. Foundation of Secu. Nestor
and Metrofana. Fortifications. The former importance
of the Monastery. The Refectory. "Mamaligu.'*
Start for Sikla.The Bullock Cart.Our Escort.
Parente Samuel. Armed Monks. Sylvan Glades. The
Forest. A Wild Mountain Track. Magnificent Scenery.
An uncomfortable Slope towards the Precipice. The
Monastery of Sikla. A Venerable Staritz. Origin of
the Chapel of St Theodora. A Peaceful Scene Parente
Samuel's Curls. A Movmtain Storm. Sohastria
Sfecu
8IKT.A
Charming Drive.
'2:i3
XVIII.ROUMANIAN MONASTERIES.
NO. IV.
DTmXjJf TOHAKLAn,
From Piatra. Picturesque
Environs.
THE
BIOTBTTZA.
The
Monastery of
Tomb of Alexander the Good. A Beautiful

Church. Bisericanu. Pingariciora. Village of Hangu.
Moldavian Peasantry. Costume. Difficult Mountain
Track. The Monastery of Durau. A Tradition of
Tourists. From the Little Balcony. Parente Hilarion
and the Neophyte. Transylvanian Peasants. Eidelweis.
A Little Miser. Floats along the Troughs. Repchiuni. Leisurely Construction of the Raft. Obstruc Lowering Clouds. The Master Raftsman.
Rain and Rapids. Skilfid Guidance. The Eddies.
A Sad Landing. A Compassionate Traveller. At
Piatra. Maritza. Zeckler Harvesters. Home w&rds
240
Bistritza.
tions.
COXTENTS.
XIX.IN CEETE.
NO.
CANEA AND
I.
ITS ENVIEONS.
In the Harbour of Canea. Rethymo. Brother Geronimo.

Arrival at Canea. The Convent Parlour. An Improvised Home.
A Street Scene. Our Opposite Neighbour.
The Grocer's Shop. Cretan Costume Funerals.
Twelve o'clock. The former Lords of the Island.
Ancient Costumes. Raouf Pasha. Unusual Visitors.
The Khiza and the White Mountains. Aloes
.
.270
XX. IN CRETE.
NO. n.
Church Mosques.
The
CANEA AND
ITS
ENVIEONS.
Ancient Arsenal of the Galleys.
Venetian Fortifications. The Negro Village. Arab

Street Carriages.
The Leper Settlement.
Huts.
Red Earth and Olive-trees. Mumies. Georghi, the
Honey and Travelling Bees. " LavdaCoffee-seller.
num." The Spring of Perivoglia. ^View from the TerThe Garden of Munir Agha. Fine Orange-trees.
race.
Kialepa
284
SKETCHES OF EASTERN LIFE
AND SCENERY.
I.
FESTIVITIES IN
THE HAREM.
Festival, The Talika. The Mistress of

Zeheira. The State Couch. Scenic Effects.
Rich Presents. Jew Mountebanks. The Bastinado.
Dinner, Bouyouroun, How to Vanquish a Stuffed Lamb.
Zerde pillaw. Khoshab. From behind the Cafeases.
"Tastes Differ." The Kiosk in the Vineyards. Rest.
Preparations
for the
Ceremonies.
At
the country house of
Pasha there are
great preparations for the festival of his three elder

sons.
This
a very important event in the life of
is
Mussulman family
are
made
for it;
long and costly preparations
all relations,
friends,
and even
acquaintances, are invited to share in the feasting
and
rejoicing,
and means
and
it is
to collect
neighbourhood
all
usual for persons of position
from the poorer families of the
who can
take part in and benefit
by the occasion.
We started from Pera (in acceptance of a pressing

invitation), driven
VOL.
II.
by poor old Eli, a Bulgarian, and

u
SKETCHES OF EASTERN LIFE AND SCENERY.
one of the best talika-drivers in Constantinople.
His was a rickety
vehicle,
and the old grey horse
looked almost past work, yet Eli being fortunately
we
sober,
collision
felt
that nothing short of an inevitable
could
upset
us,
and
we jumped and
thumped and swayed, and plunged resigned and

until at length we came to a halt on the
suffering
summit of a steep
hill.
Being accustomed
motion,
we had
method of
to this uneasy
seized
loco-
opportunities between the
convulsions to admire, in passing, the fresh country

in its bright
May
encampment the
;
where
the grassy, flowery
the black tents of a gipsy
rural lanes, the evergreen hedges,
ilex, myrtle,
ing screen, parting

little
garments
around Bebek
slopes
and scented bay form a glisten-
now and then
to
frame delicious
vignettes of the sapphire Bosphorus and the
violet hills of Asia.

Eli, leaving his talika to take care of itself for
a while, descends the steep slope with us, and pro-
ceeds to knock lustily with a large stone on a yellow
wooden gate which we suppose

the property of
sponse
result.
at
be the entrance to
There
Pasha.
more pounding with the stone
At length
man
bouring cottage window.

is
to
no restill
no
from a neighdughiun " (festival)
hails us
The
*'
the great yali near the
descend to the foot of the
is
hill.
water.
He
We
must
furthermore
FESTIVITIES IN
vouchsafes to lounge out
some
after
THE HAREM.
in course of time, and,
parley, consents to guide us
our bags for a consideration.
and
to carry
So we go down a
sort
of cataract of boulders and brambles, until at length,
with heat and exertion, we
faint
find
ourselves
landed at the harem door.
unknown woman
strange
welcome from the top of the

wears
white
active service
dress,
shouts a boisterous
flight of steps.
very short, as ready for

[
her eyebrows are painted to meet
in severe precision in the centre,
touched with
henna
*'
She
her eyelids are
surmeh " and her finger-tips dyed with
a mighty bunch of flowers on the forehead
denotes the festive character of the occasion.
She
proves to be the hired mistress of the ceremonies,
deputed to welcome the guests on their

to see that every
tion,
and
to
first arrival,
one receives a due share of atten-
keep up the
spirits
of the
company
generally.
The
comes forward
and
women and
hall is quite full of
gayest dresses
girls in their
amongst them Zeheira Hanum, who

to us,
affectionate
both hands extended in eager
welcome.
How
charming
graceful she looks, in a light dress of white
gold-coloured
muslin
on
her
head
and
and
a coronet
adorned with flowers, an ostrich plume, and some

very handsome diamonds
In a cool saloon overhanging the Bosphorus the
ladies of the family are assembled
tlie
Teze
Hanum
(the aunt), her witty daughter, the daughter-in-law,
and some
others, all richly dressed, principally in
white, and blazing with diamonds.
After the sweet-
the ladies wander
away into another
meats and
coffee,
room, where a heavy curtain has been stretched

across to screen off the entrance to the
From behind
the curtain a
sounds of music reach us

with
all
guests.
hum
the
many
of
little
selamlik.
voices
and
boys are there
the masculine portion of the family and
After spending some time listening to the
monotonous rasping of the native instruments, the
weary of peeping by turns round the edge

"
propose a visit to the
of the goats'-hair " perdeh
ladies
room where the

young brothers.
state
bed has been prepared for the
It is a magnificent construction
of rose-coloured satin
stiff
quilts laid about in profusion
formed of wreaths of
of
many
lets,
and
;
satin pillows
above, a canopy
artificial flowers,
with feathers
colours mingled with pearl ornaments,
and charms.
is
with gold embroidery, and
there are richly ornamented silk
and
the coverlet
feather fan
is
amu-
leaning in one
corner, and, at the back of the bed, very prettily
grouped, are clusters of imitation
and
little
beside the bed

presents.
fruit,
with grass
toy lambs and cows and birds.

is
heaped with oranges,
table
toys,
and
FESTIVITIES IN THE HAREM.

WTiilst
we
are yet admiring the delicate gold em-
movement amongst the com-
broideries, there is a
pany
we
the distant sound of music has ceased, and
are all invited to leave the room, which
is
divided
from the landing at the head of the staircase by a
Here
glazed partition shaded by curtains.
women
all
the
are crowded together to look on through the
transparent
muslin.
theatrical representation
decorated bed
is
has
It
the effect of
all
the empty room with the
the stage. First of
scene the Pasha
all enters
Jew mountebanks take up
next, a
their station in
and instruments
front of the bed, with tambourines
of music.
on the
he passes a slow an,d careful in-
spection of the preparations and withdraws

troupe of
After a long pause of expectation, they
receive a signal from
the selamlik and suddenly
burst into animation-^the cymbals clash horribly,

the tambourines jangle,
Turkish drums are
the
banged into a deafening discord

pause, another wild burst,
bearing Mustafa Bey in his arms.

the gorgeous couch.
expectation
There
is
the mothers of the
anxiously through the muslin,
weep
hysterically,
the
weeping for sympathy.

instruments, and
and
nurses
Again a
Ethem Bey
laid beside his brother.
then silence, a
and a man rushes
is
He
places
in,
him on
another pause of
little
are
beys, gazing
beginning to
and
elder slaves
fierce
clang of the
carried rapidly in
Every one
shouts, the
SKETCHES OE EASTERN LIFE AND SCENERY.
women
cry
**
Mashallah
"
several times,
and
before the shouts have ceased the third blast of
triumph heralds the arrival of Osman Bey, who
is
also placed upon the bed. Then the instruments and

the Pasha
shouts burst forth with renewed vigour
;
comes
and with the feather fan begins himself
in,
fan the children, and a negress, shrouded

ghost,
makes her appearance
to attend
to
like a
upon them.
Friends crowd round to present their offerings

they bring toys of
all sorts,
gold and silver cups and
spoons, jars^ of sweetmeats, a cannon, a large toy
anything, in
goat
beys,
and
who
satins
short, that
are nestled all in a
may amuse
the three
row amongst the
silks
and gold embroideries, their caps heavily
adorned with pearls and diamonds.
The children
are from eight to ten or eleven years of age.
All this time the Jews are dancing and playing

antics before
them
a small
mountebank boy, on the
shoulders of a man, strives to catch their attention
by
his contortions
the crash and din of the music
overpowers every other sound.
There
is
a pause in the performance, and the
men withdraw from
the room
the folding-doors are
thrown back, and the tearful mothers are

admitted into
it.
On
a nearer view,
at length
many
presents prove to be of considerable value.
mond
of the
A dia-
ring, a watch, or objects equally costly, are
very customary gifts from the father, whose fortune

FESTIYITIES IN
THE HAREil.
has on this occasion to meet heavy charges,
as, in
addition to the outlay of all kinds incurred for the

family, he
days
all
is
expected to lodge and feast for several
who
the children
monies and
festivities of
all their families
a present in
participate in the cere-
the "sunnet," as well as
besides which each child receives
money and
clothing.
It
may
be well
imagined that these occasions of almost boundless

hospitality
and expenditure are a
terrible
upon incomes already overburdened by
strain
a needlessly
numerous household.
The mountebanks being about

the
women
more
are
warned
to
resume work,
to vacate the premises
and we accordingly take up our
hind some movable
lattices stretched across the
ing of folding- doors.
once
stations be-
open-
Here we have an excellent
They
view of the puppets.
are
managed
cleverly
enough by the Jewish mountebanks, who are undeniably the most degraded type of humanity that
can be met with here.
man
sits
tall,
villainous-looking
cross-legged on one side of the dark curtain
that conceals his confederate.
He
wears a fantastic
peaked cotton cap and holds a tambourine.
The
chief wit of the puppets seems to consist in running

full tilt at
the
Jew and dashing
outrage they have
made
to lie
to
down, the
oflf
his cap, for
which
be bastinadoed on the spot

soles of their feet
turned up,
and the punishment administered with great science
One black puppet amongst
and evident experience.
them
manners
this
exceedingly ill-behaved and coarse in his
same
did not certainly receive his due share of
stick
but every one seemed
satisfied
and
delighted with the performance.
little
before sunset, escaping from the heat of
the crowded rooms,
we made an attempt
to visit the
gardens, through a door leading out on to the hillside.
The door was
fast locked,
however, the key
was nowhere, and we were obliged
to return into
the house, finding, at length, a cool retreat in a
room overlooking the water, where the pretty ladylike niece of
Besme Hanum came
to entertain us
with her conversation.
Dinner was served at
sunset,
on two tables in the
great marble hall, or rather on round trays, beneath
which, on the ground, was spread a white cloth embroidered in colours, the guests sitting around on
The numerous company could not, of

course, be accommodated at one time.
The custom
of eating from a dish placed in the centre makes a
cushions.
round table indispensable, and
it
must not be
so
large as to prevent a person from reaching the
middle of
to seat
it
with ease
more than
festive board.
consequently,
it is difficult
six or eight people together at the
Several tables are therefore spread in
the great hall, and the guests must be served in

relays,
the most honoured passing
first
in order.
They paid us
Water was poured
that compliment.
over our hands from
a slender
ibrik "
*'
into
" sayan/' or perforated basin, both vessels being of

silver, exquisitely
chased and ornamented
a soft
gold-embroidered Broussa towel was thrown lightly

over the hands by another attendant.
also as the dinner napkin,
the left shoulder
This serves
one end being passed over
and we were established
as
com-
fortably as could be contrived round a steaming
Dipping our
tureen of delicate white soup.

shell spoons into this
was easy
they do at Rome*' on these occasions

dish was embarrassing.
raisins,
and pistachio
nuts,
lamb
tortoise-
you must "do
as
but the next
stuffed
with
rice,
and roasted whole, was
borne along by two stout slaves and placed in the

centre of the dining-tray.
and most excellent, but
It is a
high
festival dish,
difficult of access
with no
other implements than a slender spoon and fingers.
When
dining with the family in this hospitable
harem, knives and forks are always provided for our

benefit,
but on this public occasion we had begged
that no invidious distinction
that
we should be allowed
war with our neighbours.

attack.
We
to share the fortunes of
But how
hesitate, reconnoitring.
to follow the lead of the lady
table
might be made, and

to
open the
It is our part
deputed to head the
and inaugurate the proceedings.
She has pro-
nounced the courteous "bouyouro(in," without which
"
SKETCHES OF EASTERN LIFE AXD
10
SCEIS'EIIY.
no well-mannered person begins
action.
" Bou3ôu-
bouyouroun " stouts the
official
mistress of
roun
the revels, hovering around and nodding her roses
and hospitable. "Bouyouroun!" murmurs a gentle and famished neighbour, anxious to

commence operations and too polite to rush on before.
at us, excited
But how ? From what limb of the formidable

can
we grasp and
secure with delicacy
pons
The
People are hungry.
my
shoulder
The lamb
energetically,
is
glass bangles,
;
the monkey-
on the opposite side
like fingers seize a leg, a guest
grasps a shoulder.
torn asunder briskly,
dismembered in an
stuffing,
slab of unleavened bread.
where
intended
so
The
use of one's
much
benevolently on
it
of
hospitality
is
and good- will were

certainly the
prompt
fingers in such emergencies, if
have a natural objection
to
my
Could one show Hesita-
readiest escape
own
mound
and the friendly negress selecting
a tempting piece, deposits
tion
Every
instant.
one rushes at once into the vanquished
meat and
for wea-
difficulty is solved
by two ebony arms, adorned by blue

that pass suddenly over
roti
and decorum
Adam's forks
a dripping portion with only
**
you
be fed by those of other
people.
The
repast was excellent
stuffed cucumbers, cheese
kinds,
the
gala dishes
the usual
amount of
puffs, vegetables of
of
" baklawa,"
many
" tawouk
mohalibe" (the white of chicken pounded into a

**
blancmange
of rice-flour, milk, and sugar), and
'*
the inevitable " zerde pillaw,"
ornamented with cinnamon,

nate-seeds.
11
made
of boiled rice,
saffron,
and pomegra-
This zerde pillaw
is also
an indispen-
sable delicacy at eyerj marriage feast.
invariably the last dish served;
it
Pillaw
by
followed
is
is
bowls of **khoshab"
(a
thin syrup flavoured with
dried fruits), which
is
frequently the only liquid
taken, although water
On
more presented
scented,
brought when asked
the water
and there
ported on
coffee,
is
for.
rising from table the silver ewers are once
is
is
warmed and
slightly
a delicate ball of soap sup-
the raised centre of
the basin.
The
tchibouks, and cigarettes are handed round
in the " sofa," the large central saloon on the first

floor.
The drums and tambourines could be heard from

work in the children's room, and
the company soon move off to secure the best posa distance hard at
sible places
behind the trellised screens.
It is very
trying to the unaccustomed eye, this peering through

the small apertures of the cafesses, but
we
did our
utmost to gaze with the best appearance of interest

that
we
could command, in order not to disappoint
our kind and gentle hostesses.
They, poor
were enchanted with the spectacle.

little to
women
There
is
so
vary the monotony of their lives that the
childish jugglery
and buffoonery of these miserable
SKETCHES OF EASTEEJf LIFE AND SCENERY.
12
was
jesters
them an amount
to
of entertainment
They put
that could hardly be sufficiently enjoyed.
us in the best places, but
we
soon contrived to yield
the position to more appreciative eyes, and I was
very near falling to sleep in a quiet armchair in

the
dim background.
effort,
still
This would not do.
A strong
The Jews are

the lighted chamber
and I rouse myself once more.
banging and clashing in
beyond the grating, and

sitting
six stout elderly pashas are
very solemnly on a row of crimson
seats,
smoking six long tchibouks, and gazing and nodding

grave approval of the show, which
representation of
The
Karaghenz
is
a modified
(the Turkish Punch).
old gentlemen sat through the whole of the
long performance with great steadiness and determination.
At midnight we
to a
at
length ventured to withdraw
room where mattresses
arranged upon the

fancy
it
floor.
It
for fourteen
the cabin of a crowded steamer, and
very well.
it
to
did
Certainly no care or attention had been
omitted by the hanums that might

agreeable under the
slept
had been
was only necessary
from utter
mained above
difficult
make our
circumstances.
visit
We
fatigue, but the native ladies re-
stairs until
the pale
dawn marked the
swelling outlines of the Asiatic shore, the music and

noise continuing also all through the night.
A few
weeks
later I paid, with a friend, another
THE HAREM.
FESTIVITIES IN
visit to
the harem of
13
Pasha, and found the
family installed for the hot months in a charming

kiosk nearly on the summit of the
and
vineyards
approach
gardens
enough
is rustic
hill,
the
of
amongst the
The
property.
a piece of string and
a latch give admittance to a pleasant garden, fragrant
A sound
with roses and clematis.
of voices drew us
through the shady paths to the neighbourhood of

the dwelling, where I came upon a black cook wash-
ing vegetables at a fountain
woman, with splendid

a joyous welcome
with
much
They were
cool
been
teeth gleaming as she uttered
She seemed
to
know me
were
to
be found.
room so
The kiosk has
seated in such a delightful
and breezy and flower-scented.
much improved
lately
ning round three sides of

westeria, jessamine,
and
well,
and beaming smiles explained
volubility
ladies
large fine-looking
her sable head was adorned with
scarlet blossoms.
where the
a broad verandah, run-
it, is
and roses
thickly draped with
perfumed bower,
from which you look out upon one of the most

glorious panoramas of this part of the straits.
massive towers of
of heaving foliage
Mahomet
;
II. rise out of a
a few brown and
red wooden
houses are dotted here and there amongst the
Lower down a wilderness
The
world
trees.
of sharp grey rocks
and
tangled shrubs, backed by the blue water and the

swelling lilac-tinted hills of the opposite shore
on
14
the left-hand,
form of
All
strong
in.
relief,
the gnarled and twisted
majestic pine-tree.
so
is
calm and
we
homelike, as
sit
restful,
there a
over the after-dinner coffee
so quiet,
little
;
and
soft,
later in the day,
the children are play-
ing in the verandah beyond the open windows
the
musical chant of a muezzim rises faintly from far

beneath, where the white minaret gleams amongst
the cypresses
bouring brow
a goat's bell tinkles from a neigh-
the insects hum drowsily.
unable to speak to the

soft pillows
ladies,
is
My friend,
nestled amongst
in the corner of a divan,
where the
breeze comes through the clustering jessamine; she
dozes gently, the elder

cigarette
Zeheira
of her necklace,
her
little
is
hanum smokes
a pensive
slowly re-stringing the pearls
which had served
to
deck the fez of
son on the occasion of the late festivity
and Leila Hanum,
the Pasha's second -daughter,
seated in a quiet corner with her frame,
is
at
work
upon a towel of Broussa stuff which she embroiders
papa.
in gold
at
either
end as a present
for
her
II.
THE BETROTHAL OF DJENANIAH CALPHA.

A
Valuable " Halaik."Difficult Courtship and Kismet/'

The Ceremony of the "Nikyah" (the betrothal). The
Imam's Questions. The Marriage Contract. The Shower
of Coin. Gifts of Jewellery. Fear of the Evil Eye.
Djenaniah
is
to be
What
cassian slave.
posed
how put
of,
are no
services
married.
can
it
out of the
families
of
is
is
It
where the halaik or slave
signifies a
a humble depen-
old-fashioned
those
only a Cir-
how she is disway, now that her
longer required
very great deal, for Djenaniah

dent of one
She
signify
is,
Mussulman
in her degree,
esteemed and cared for as one of themselves, for
whose welfare they are responsible, and towards
whom
the
through
tie of
life.
good-will and protection continues
Ibrahim Bey, the worthy master of
that household, had bought her, a tiny girl of three
years old, and putting her under the care
young
wife,
the
little
children of the house, to
brought to disturb
its
of his
grew up with the

which no second wife was
halaik
peace and harmony.
She
16
was trained
order
in habits of exquisite cleanliness
and
and the making of most of the garments
of the household, the embroidery of the linen, the
washing and ironing, the pickles and preserves, the
and the kadaif
zerde pillaw
for times of festival,
the sherbet and the delicate
creamy
coffee,
Ramazan
cauldrons of ashourah, and the
the
distribution
to the poor, all bore witness to Djenaniah Calpha's
careful
supervision
and labour.
She has
given a longer time of service than
is
indeed
generally
expected from a halaik, for she was too valuable to
be easily dispensed with
during
many
years she
nursed and waited on the bedridden mother of the

bey, but the old lady
now
is
to give the faithful, patient
liberty
dead, and
woman
it
is
time
her paper of
and a home of her own.
Ibrahim Bey
and
wife
his
made many and
anxious inquiries to find a good steady man, with
some small means and
band
settled
and
for their calpha,
Osman
Efiendi, the
imam
a claim to
face, a quiet
is
made
of a small
of the Asiatic villages of the
Djenaniah
employment, as hus-
finally
choice of
mosque
in one
Upper Bosphorus.
no longer young, and has never had
good looks
but she has a gentle, calm
manner and
soft voice,
and the imam
consents to take her as his wife on the report of her
good qualities and house-keeping

for the
benefit
of the
talents, as well as
connection with
the bey's
THE BETROTHAL OF DJENANIAH CALPHA.

Whether she be
family.
matter to be
left
pretty or otherwise
entirely to " kismet," for
it is
17
is
not
to be supposed that he could obtain even a glimpse
Djenaniah, however, has the advan-
of her features.
tage of
him
in this respect
there are
many chances
of observation through the cafesses or by the chink

of the perdeh of the harem door, so she
her intended
is
knows that
about thirty-five, with a pleasant
countenance, soft dark eyes, and an expression of

placid good temper.
It is the
men
day of the betrothal
a small group of
has assembled in the hall which separates the
harem and the
The party
selamlik.
consists of the
vakeel, or representative of the bridegroom, his

witnesses,
imam
and one or two near
relatives,
two
with the
of the quarter acting as civil magistrate, for
the nikyah, or betrothal, which
ceremony,
is
the only marriage
a civil rather than a religious rite.
is
On
the part of the bride, there are present her vakeel,
two
Ibrahim Bey, and his eldest son.
witnesses,
The door leading from the harem

companions,
is
stationed behind
recited a prayer,
and the
me
as
"Do
VOL.
II.
'^
The imam has

comes to the
you, Djenaniah,
your vakeel, to arrange the marriage
with Osman Effendi, the son of
Koyoundjik
it.
bride's vakeel
other side of the gap and asks,

accept
into the hall is
and Djenaniah, brought by two of her
slightly ajar,
There
is
Mahmoud Agha,
of
no answer, but a trembling

c
18
rustle
and agitated whisper from the
question
is
ceremony, for
"Yes"
it is
concludes this part of the
the correct thing for the fiancee
show the utmost reluctance and not
is
signed by the vakeels and the witnesses,
the amount of dowry stated, and a
upon
for the bride.
and she
to yield con-
Then the marriage
sent until three times solicited.
contract
The
repeated a second and yet a third time
before a faint
to
friends.
Djenaniah
will be called Ilafiza
is
new name agreed
no longer a halaik,
A messenger
Hanum.
has ridden off in hot haste to convey the news of the

signature of the contract to the bridegroom,
remains at home.
receives a
that
handsome
The bearer
present.
of good
It is to
be remarked
amount of dowry acknowledged
the
who
tidings
marriage contract must be paid to the wife
in
the
if
her
husband should wish eventually to divorce her, and

this
law often acts as a check to maintain her in her
position,
from which she could otherwise be but too
easily displaced.
Djenaniah
is
led back
to her
room, and the
mother and nearest female
relatives of the bride-
groom begin
the konak.
to arrive at
received at the entrance of the harem
They are
by an old
calpha acting as mistress of the ceremonies, attended
by a group of women.
She holds a
silver tray
on
which are a small dish with a piece of lighted charcoal
and a
silver filigree vase of incense.
She waves
THE BETROTHAL OF DJEXANIAH CALPHA.

this about the
threshold
hands of the
yashmaks and
19
visitors as they cross the
feradjes are then taken off
and the incenso-bearer precedes them up the staircase. She pauses on the top step, and the guests bow
their heads towards the
pass on into the sala.
posed to overcome
The
perfumed vapour as they

This use of incense
is
sup-
all evil influences.
now
visitors are
seated on the principal divan,
the bridegroom's mother in the place of honour, and
with a clashing sound of instruments a small procession
makes
Some
direction.
bourines,
from
appearance
its
girls
the
opposite
with violins, cymbals, tam-
and castanets are escorting the
bride,
who
approaches slowly, upheld on either side by the

kiayah and the hanum*s old nurse
arm above the elbow

ground without
as if she
As
this support.
a shower of small silver coin
they grasp her
must sink
to the
she enters the hall,
thrown into the
is
air
above her head.

Djeniiuiah
dressed in
is
be got together
all
the finery that could
a rich velvet antary and schalwars
embroidered in gold has been hired for the occasion

in the bazaars
the heavy mass of diamonds on her
head are lent by the hanum and by other ladies of

the family
the fine brilliant
on her finger
is
present from the bey, and the handsome jewelled

earrings a collective offering from the children of
the family.
She comes forward
to salute the ladies.
20
hem of their
kissing the
and rank, and
age
to
by
seated,
As
right, in
soon as she
is
robe or the hand according

is
then for the
first
time
the presence of her mistress.
placed, facing the
row of
her future mother-in-law steps forward to
ladies,
offer
her
gifts of jewellery.
The tambourine
and
castanet
round and round the bride
which
tlirown,
occasions
and noisy
vigorous
scramble amongst the spectators.
Refreshments are
handed and the day of betrothal comes

It
is
dance
downcast eyes, and coins are again
and
hands
players
as she sits with folded
exceedingly
dilBScult to
to
an end.
witness the ceremony
of betrothal just described, as the fear of the evil

eye, always
weighing on the Oriental mind, has an
overpowering influence on these occasions.
The
interval between the cerereony of the nikyah
and the taking home

fifteen
days,
of the bride is usually ten or
sometimes
the delay
is
much
Children are even occasionally betrothed
greater.
in infancy,
marriage
and must wait many years
for
their
festivities.
Widows
young
but
are re-married on a Sunday, after sunset
girls are
taken to
No
Thursday afternoon.
their
new homes on
marriage
takes
place
during the Ramazan or in the second month of the
Mussulman
year, Sefer
it is
considered unlucky.
III.
TAKING HOME THE BRIDE.
Bridal Gifts and Bridal Furniture. Oppressive

Decorated
"Talikas." The Bride's Throne. Free and Candid Criticisms. The Prayer Carpet. A Peaceful Home.
The New Name,

Finery
the Face Jewels and the Golden Veil.
Djenaniah
now
called Hatiza
Hanum
no
a halaik, but a nikyahli (a betrothed one),
new home
longer
was not
more than a fortnight

had passed since the ceremony of the betrothal and
taken to her
the marriage contract.
until
During
this
interval the
customary interchange of presents has been conscientiously
made.
The imam, Osman Effendi
(the
bridegroom), acquits himself of his obligations with

great propriety and a strict observance of the etiquette that regulates these offerings, bringing to the
door of the harem
fruits, flowers,
and sweetmeats
he was even found there, one morning, patiently

waiting with a boiled chicken in his hand as a
testimony of regard for his
as
yet unseen
be-
trothed.
On
the fourth day, however, a
bridal gift
made
its
more important
appearance, and was borne at
22
once into
tlie
inspection
presence of the buyuk hanum, for her
to be a
loosening the greeu
up the shrouding muslin,
handsome
it
proved
tray, bearing in the centre a vase
with inferior bonbons, surrounded by bottles
filled
of
On
and approval.
ribbons that tied
perfume and ornamental pots of mastic,
cardamums, and other spices

glory of the ofiering
appeared
gance
cloves,
but the crowning
the finishing touch of ele-
in the form of a solid pair of high-
heeled black leather boots
On
a previous day a
small bag of gold coins had been sent to the bride,

as also the
or bathing-clogs, inlaid with
naleyn,
mother-of-pearl, never omitted in the
list
of bridal
gifts.
The wedding furniture has been

ceremony,
to
the house in Stamboul where the
newly married couple are
to pass the winter.
greater part of this plenishing
vided by Ibrahim
of
the
taken, with some
marriage),
Bey (who
is
bears
all
the expenses
and some things are
friends of the family
there are
The
most liberally pro-
stuff's
and hangings, and camels' hair door curtains
handsome
store of
of
gifts
for the divans

;
bedding and household linen, with
every requisite for the bath, and

of the kitchen, everything as
all
the furnishing
much
as possible tied
up in coloured gauze, bedecked with
tinsel
and
streamers of ribbon, and carried in triumphal state
on men's heads, or in
talikas decorated with
gay

The simple
Stuffs.
home
an hour
iu
23
halaik's worldly goods are taken
the bridal furniture of a sultana
(some years since) was carried from the Seraglio to

her
new
palace in an uninterrupted procession last-
ing an entire week
On
the Tuesday before the marriage, Hafiza has
been taken in state
to the bath,
the ladies and serving

lingers
and
toes are
women
accompanied by
of the
harem
all
her
dyed with henna and her hair
perfumed, after which, completely draped in her new

takim, or set of bathing wraps, she clatters about on
her bright new clogs, to kiss the hands of
hanums
It is
all
the
in their order of precedence.
Thursday, the day of marriage.
tomary present of
fruit has
The
cus-
been sent in by the bride-
groom, and Hafiza, nearly crushed by the weight of

her ponderous bridal finery,
sits
Her
the signal of departure.
anxiously awaiting
dress
is
a crimson vel-
vet antary, embroidered in gold (hired for the occasion),
and,
in
addition
composing her headdress
four diamonds fastened on her face

cheeks, and chin.
threads, falls
head.
When
veil, like
on either
mass of jewels
the
to
(lent for the day), she has
side,
on the forehead,
a cloud of long gold
from the top of her
she prepares to quit the harem, she
wears no furAdje, and, instead of the yashmak, a

dark gauze handkerchief sprigged with gold entirely
conceals her features.
SKETCHES OF EASTERN LIFE AND SCEXERY.
24
The young daughter of a
family, as she leaves
her home, bends to kiss the father's hand and to ask
upon which he
his blessing,
clasps a girdle
round her
waist and leads her to the foot of the stairs
the
halaik respectfully kisses the hands
liberated
of
master and mistress, and departs in charge of an
dame, the kiayah or housekeeper of the
ancient
harem.
The wedding
procession
not very long, but the
is
duly ornamented with their
talikas are
bright stuffs
wound round
and witnesses, riding in
the lamps
strips
of
the vakeels
front, display gaily coloured
scarves, everything indicating a well-ordered bridal
party,
her
and the bride's carriage reaches the door of
new home
but here a difficulty
arises.
At
the
sound of the approaching carriages the bridegroom

has hastened to the entrance
hand
he stands
at the wide-
open door ready
to
back and at
refuses to leave the carriage.
first
in his bride, but she draws

It is
thought right and becoming that she should hesitate
and require great and respectful

entering her husband's home.
will boast
solicitation before
Some young
ladies
that they have kept their bridegrooms
standing on the pavement for an hour, in vain.

Hafiza, a
unassuming woman, steps down
gentle,
after a short delay,
the staircase,
Effendi,
held
her veil
and
is
supported very slowly up
under the elbow by Osman
still
closely
drawn down.
The
women
in the great hall through
the bride's head as she
and seated on a
which they pass
and money
hastily veil their faces,
25
is
thrown over
led into the principal
is
Having thus disposed
artificial garlands.
room
under a canopy of
sort of throne,
of his
veiled charge, the husband comes back, again scat-
tering money, and vanishes into the selamlik to

rejoin his friends
festivity
the rest of the day
and in going
is
passed in
mosque, accompanied by
to
the whole party.
In the harem,
The entrance
to
all
the gossips of the neighbourhood
making the most of
are
is
wander in
their golden opportunity.
woman who may choose

the bride, who sits im-
free to every
to criticise
movable and speechless, her eyes

hands crossed, and her
now thrown
veil is
feet
cast
down, her
The
tucked under her.
back, the gold threads carefully
arranged, and she must endure unflinchingly the re-
marks which are uttered with

though she were a lay
is true,
neighbour
eye
And
*'
mucb freedom
Mashallah
seen quite near she
looking as they say, but

left
as
figure.
is
is
not so bad-
there not a cast in that
the eyebrows
not fine and bushy, and
meeting on the bridge of the nose, but a thin

line,
quite
mean and shabby
Vai
Who
I see
vai
have done her face painting very badly
monds fine, do you say ?

I know a diamond when
as
yes, it
denies that ?
it,
The
soft
they
dia-
I think
respected neigh-
26
may not have my opportuniwho knows bow many banums bave lent
bour, thougli every one
but
ties,
tbeir jewels for tbe

she'll
lah
have when
wedding? And
all is
we must hope they
looks as
if it
would tumble
helping to hold
Munire
Hanum
off if that
A poor
me
to give
him
black girl wasn't
weak reed of a man, and
my Fatma,
than that for a son-in-law
crowd passes and

the
new
stares.
insbal-
seen the husband,
Old Ayesha
not half so well off as they pretend.
wanted
as,
Now, her head
will be.
Have you
up.
it
few enough
is
it
returned honestly,
"
They
but I look higher
And
so the shifting
discuss the trousseau,
house, the prospects of the household
and
the poor victim of stringent ways and customs must
remain thus until the muezzim
when
fifth
prayer,
up with folded hands,
devotions, the wife standing
looks
the
entrance, goes slowly through his
just within the
after
calls
the bridegroom, spreading his prayer-carpet
which he
raises
upon her
face,
her veil and, for the
time,
while he ofiers his marriage
Now,
gift of jewellery.
first
if
the bride
self-possessed, while the veil
is
quick and
being raised, and
is
before he has clearly seen her features, she

(says superstition)
her bridegroom's
must
advance her foot and tread on
toe, as a certain
means of securing
for ever after her ascendancy in the household.
freshments are immediately brought

bride performs
her
first
act
in,
Re-
and the
of wifely duty
in

handing
lady
to
her lord his pipe and
coffee.
of superior rank this ceremony
i8
Marriage
festivities frequently
27
is
When
continue for
during which almost open house
days,
the
omitted.
tliree
kept.
is
Zerde pillaw, sweetened rice coloured with saffron
and sprinkled with grains of pomegranate,
is
a dish
never forgotten on these occasions.
On
the day after the marriag?, a present of clotted
by the bridegroom
cream
is
bride,
and he comes soon afterwards
sent
spects to the
to the family of the

to
pay his
re-
gentlemen and to send in elaborate
messages of compliment to the harem.
A bride remains
may
but she
receive
home
month
her friends. Her
at
or six weeks,
first visit
must
be to her husband's mother.
The wedding
festivities of
our gentle Hafiza have
been as simple as could be consistent with scrupulous attention to every necessary detail.
important feature in the transaction

a husband
has
straitened means, are very
since
them
it is
orderly.
The most
the choice of
proved singularly fortunate.
imam, Osman Effendi, and his
We saw
in their
wife,
happy
The
though with
in their marriage.
modest home but a few days
a poor place, but exquisitely clean and
They have been married
a year, and
that time," said the worthy man, "
one difference of opinion
'*
we have
during
not had
"
not one unkind word
Hafiza has but one regret, but that
is
very keenly
28
felt
her longing to see once more the family of
Ibrahim Bey, now removed
to a distance.
" I have
been with them all my life," she said, with tears in

" the efPendi and the hanum have been my
her eyes
father and mother
and,
oh
grandchild, she never left
me
My heart
is
withering,
my
little
until I
Zeheira,
the
came away.
eyes ache to see them
once again."
We
dition
withdrew, musing. This aspect of the conand treatment of a " slave," a simple and every-
day experience in the great mass of Mussulman

households in this country, has
to honest
judgment and
it
not as good a claim
fair appreciation
as the
popular theory of neglect and ill-treatment so tenaciously clinging to the

fied
name
of
**
slave,"
and
justi-
only in the small minority of those harems that
are painfully striving to throw off their old rules of

life
without attaining to any higher and better prin-
ciples of
guidance
IV.
UNDERGROUND STAMBOUL.
Yere-Batan-Serai. The Mysterious Lake. A
Palace
of
the
"Djinns." Liikium. The Cistern of the Hippodrome.

Bin-Bir-Direk. The Cistern of Theodosius. The Cistern of
Arcadius. Tchukur Bostan. The Cisterns of Bonus, of
the Emperor Anastasius, of the Church of Pantocrator, of
Boudroum Djami, of St. John Studius. Massive Subterranean Remains. Fazli Pasha.
Were
necessary to strengthen the impression of
it
the culpable neglect with which the great question

of the water supply of Constantinople has been
until lately
it
would
left to
the chances of rain or drought,
suffice to visit
some of the ruined
cisterns
constructed for the benefit of the ancient city, and

to
note, even in
those
the abandonment and decay of
mighty works, the
startling contrast
between
the actual absence of all adequate provision, and

the costly labour and anxious care bestowed on this
important subject by the
Eoman and Byzantine
rulers of this great metropolis.
Amongst
these little-known remains of the stately
and beautiful
capital of the East, the cistern
by the Turks Y^re-Batan-Serai

paluce)
is
named
(the subterranean
the most remarkable for
its
solid con-
30
struction, the
the legends
mystery of
its
unknown
haunt
its
sombre wilderness of
that
The proper entrance even

up or destroyed by
granite columns.
known, probably
earthquake.
extent, and
filled
is
unor
fire
now reached through a narrow
It is
opening in the paved courtyard of a Turkish konak,
behind the "souterasi," or water-tower that overlooks the great square of St. Sophia, at a stone's
throw from the line of the tramway.
The master
konak
of this
is
obliging,
and his
servants alive to the advantages of backshish, so
that there
is little difficulty
and with some

struggle
down
slimy platform.
of the water.
weird
their
the irregular hole and reach a small
few steps descend to the level
Out
of the dark, motionless lake rise
and solemn
finely
in gaining admittance,
candle and a guide, you
of
bits
wrought
looming greyly in the
the
columns with
granite
Corinthian
capitals
livid darkness
here,
there, faintly
touched by some wandering ray streaming through
an opening in the
roof.
Far
as the eye
can reach,
the dark water, the massive pillars, and the trem-
bling threads of light, pass away into distance, as
The legends
the extent were indeed illimitable.
if
of
the place relate that one adventurous explorer started

in a
boat,
warned by
and was seen no more
that another,
unwound,
as
he
advanced, a cord fixed near the entrance, and
so.
his
mysterious
fate,
UXDERGROUND STAMBOUL.
31
after a long interval, returning in safety to the little
platform, told
how
for
hours he had steadily rowed
on and seen no limit to the dark silent lake.
Turkish superstition holds that djinns, and ghouls,
and malignant water- spirits hold gruesome revel in

the
These
this
unearthly
**
palace.'*
sinister ideas cling fittingly to the place,
and
distressing to find one authority who, defying
is
it
all
shadows of
fearful
thought of mystery, boldly ventures to
aflfirm
that " the roof rests on three hundred and thirtysix pillars, divided as to length into sixteen rows, in
breadth into twenty-eight
" but the statement can
neither be challenged, nor accepted, as
would seem
to
of this wonderful
all verification
The picturesque
be impossible.
work has much decreased
Those
rebuilding of that quarter of Constantinople.
who
visited
cleared
it
some years ago,
some openings
in the
effect
since the
after a great fire
had
upper earth, can never
forget the solemn majesty of the picture.
Yere-Batan-Serai
is
generally called the
**
Royal
Cistern of Constantino the Great," and thought to

receive its principal supply of water from a small
river at the head of the
rities
give
theory that
it
Golden Horn.
much more
it is filled
Some autho-
ancient date, and hold a
from a source
at a considerable
distance from the city.

Texier, in his description of Nicomedia, speaking
of a great ruined cistern in the neighbourhood of
32
that citj^ says
the
first,
The
*'
:
had three coatings
interior
ajDplied directly
ture of lime and cement
on the brick, was a mixthe second, a
powdered charcoal and lime
and the
compound of
third, a very
hard stucco made of pounded stone, lime, and oil/*

In White's " Constantinople," this mixture is called
" lukium,"
and
he remarks
quality of this mixture
is
" The
impervious
so efiicacious that,
some tanks are entirely beneath the
earth,
although
and thus
perpetually exposed to outward infiltration as well

as inward pressure
and
undoubtedly coeval with
the earliest Byzantine monarchs
yet there
is
no
record of their requiring repair, or of their having

ever leaked."
Several important reservoirs are grouped about

this,
the highest and central point of old Constan-
Leaving the " subterranean palace," you
tinople.
cross the ancient racecourse
western limit
pass
by the
the Atmeidan
to its
industrial schools
and
workshops, and entering the building in which the

Janissaries' costumes are exhibited, pause at the foot
of the staircase, where a small

like the entrance
wooden door looks
to a cellar or dustbin.
that door, a few feet along the
hand,
is
Behind
wall on the left
an opening through which the vaults and
pillars of a large reservoir,
occupying the circular
end of the hippodrome, can be distinctly seen.

little
door
is
now
The
jealously closed, and the people on
UNDEKGROUXD STAMBOUL.
83
the spot deny, perhaps ignore, the existence of this
monument.
But
further evidence
it is
is
line of the old wall
there nevertheless, and some
found by following the rounded
on the sea
One
side.
of our best
local authorities calls this a cistern of Constantine.
Turn back now, and climb
the short
ascent
towards the unbuilt ground behind the ruined palace

of the
German ambassadors.
Amidst the mounds of
stones and rubbish are openings fringed with rank
grass and tangled briers, through which a strange,
sad sound, a sort of mournful droning wail,

if
from the bowels of the earth.
It is the
rises,
as
hum
of
reeling wheels, and the -smothered stir of
We
voices.
are standing
human
above the " Bin
bir
The enthrough a mean doorway and down a steep

rough stone steps. The name of the thou-
direk" (the thousand and one columns).

trance
is
flight of
sand and one columns
misleading, there being
is
only two hundred and twenty-four.
They
are in
marble, of great height and divided into sections

the lower part
of earth
is
now embedded
and rubbish.
steps, the effects of light
ing.
This
Roman
is
in the accumulations
Seen from the flight of
and shadow are very
strik-
often called the cistern of Philoxenus,
senator
who came
to Constantinople in the
time of Constantine.
Quite near to this spot, in a northerly direction,

is
situated the ancient cistern of Theodosius, also
VOL.
II.
SKETCHES OF EASTERX LIFE AIH) SCENERY.
34
dry.
It
is
smaller tlian either of those already-
mentioned, and
is
chiefly remarkable for
some columns with
some hand-
Corinthian capitals.
fine
ruin was brought into notice by the great
When we
1865.
like cavity,
The
down
fire
of
into the gulf-
an ancient Turk was dreamily engaged
making twine
there in
looked
last
This
for fishing nets.
cistern of Arcadius, which, although not the
most extensive,
is,
in point of
workmanship and
careful finish, the handsomest of
remains of former splendour,
is
these wonderful
situated at a con-
siderable distance from the hill of the
Hippodrome,
near the mosque of Sultan Selim, that overlooks the
Golden Horn.
lies
up the
street,
Passing the Gul Djami, the way
valley, then,
winds past a
by a very steep and narrow
fine old
konak, beyond which and
still
dark red and green

higher up, a ruinous
brick building appears on the left hand, entered
through a heavy iron door.

possible,
You push
and a beautiful cluster of noble columns
and sculptured
capitals rises in the softened twilight
of the great vaulted enclosure.

of these columns
designs
on the
of the pillars,
The
is
remarkably
The workmanship
fine
and of varied
each pillar bears one or more crosses, some
capital,
effect is
this open, if
some on the
from the
shaft.
base,
The whole height

being
visible,
the
extremely majestic and imposing.
largest of the open reservoirs, called "
Tchu-
UNDERGROUND STAMBOUL.
kour Bostan " (the sunken garden)
higher up the same
Arcadius.
It
hillside,
35
found rather
is
beyond the cistern of
a square of about two hundred
is
yards, and serves as a vegetable garden and orchard.
The white mulberries grown there are singularly

The water of some fountains in
fine.
abundant and
this quarter of Sultan
Selim
is
the purest and best
in Constantinople.
Another Tchukour Bostan,

lies
also a market-garden,
near the side of the Divan Yol, not far from the
Adrianople gate.
of Bonus,
There
by some called the
It is
cistern
a patrician of the time of Heraclius.

again, a dried-up reservoir of the
is yet,
same
kind near the mosque of Ilekim Ali Pasha, in the

quarter of Silivria Kapoussi.
It is
thought to have
been built by the Emperor Anastasius.
Of the
large cistern built
by the tyrant Phocas,
Church of Pantocrator (Zeirek Dja-
close to the
missi), only the massive outer wall
The entrance
is
at present
can
unknown
now be
seen.
four rows of
Corinthian columns formerly supported the roof.
Below the Boudroum
Djarai,
looking the Sea of Marmora,
is
on the side over-
found a cistern built
during the reign of the Emperor Valens.

"
In connection with the once beautiful church and
monastery of
Emir Ahkor
rests
St.
John Studius
there
on twenty
now
the mosque of
exists a fine cistern
four
columns with
the roof
handsomely
36
wrought
It serves at the present time as a
capitals.
cowhouse and
stable.
Besides the cisterns, other underground remains

are
from time
demolition, and
to time
brought to view by
fire
important parts of the city
or
rest,
unsuspectingly, over vast subterranean vaulted passages, blocks of
masonry, buried columns, and other
evidences of long forgotten monumental structures.
This
is
the case in the neighbourhood of the Porte,
at the Seraskierate,
Fazli Pasha.
and in the quarter known as
In this last-named
spot, the
ground
near the mortuary chapel and tomb of the eminent

statesman,
Fuad Pasha,
is
completely honeycombed
with passages and walls of enormous thickness and

strength.
These were
visible
for a
short while
amidst the ruins of that fearful conflagration that
swept across from the Horn to the Marmora
they
have probably disappeared beneath the new buildings
now cover all

The site of the
that
that slope.
Seraskierate, and particularly the
space between the building and the western wall of
the enclosure, cover remains similar to those at

Fazli Pasha, but of
still
grander proportions.
the foundations of the present
War
Office
When
were
laid,
columns of marble, granite, and porphyry of enor-
mous size were disinterred, and lay for some months

upon the ground amongst fragments of richly
carved capitals, and heathen funereal tablets.
V.
TURKISH HOME
The Harem.
Notwithstanding
all
LIFE.
Slavery.
that has been written about
Turkey and the Turks, very
little
information has
been offered on the subject of Turkish home

to
which the most erroneous ideas
still
life,
as
prevail in
Western Europe.
An
intimate acquaintance with the daily
life
of
Turkish families shows us households where we find
much that is far below and grievously opposed to

own estimate of the beauty and sanctity of family
our
ties
nise
yet the impartial observer cannot

as
still
force
in
fail to
recog-
amongst them many old-
fashioned homely virtues which the hard fret and

strain
seem
of
to
our eager, hurried Western
life
would
have weakened and outgrown amongst our-
selves.
None but
residents in a
thoroughly realise
impossible
it is
how
Mussulman country can
difficult
it
may
be said
that even the most painstaking
how
and
conscientious of travellers or correspondents should
be able to form an unbiased and correct opinion on
38
the

diflScult
of Turkisti
subject
reason of the difficulty
non-Mussulman countries
is,
home
howeyer,
The
life.
obvious
in
intelligent travellers can
procure at least admittance into the native society,
and are enabled
to arrive at
some approximate idea
manners and ways of
of the
country.
life
peculiar to the
The opinions thus formed
are, doubtless,
any accurate knowledge of
superficial, for to gain
the home life of a people you must live amongst

them and with them and, more, you must meet
;
them half way on the road of human sympathy and

kindly feeling
you must endeavour honestly
to
judge them according to their opportunities, and

not according to our
wrong
but yet some idea
status of the different
hold.
In Turkey
tainable
visitors
own standard
may
of
right and
be formed of the
members composing a house-
this information
by the inquirer
of
even
is
unob-
the sterner sex, such
being rigorously excluded from the society
of the feminine portion of a
No husband
Mussulman household.
or master of a family would, under
any
circumstances, receive a friend within the limits of
the harem, and the information on domestic matters
can very rarely be gained but at second-hand, most

often from sources
inaccurate and untrustworthy.
This rule of rigid exclusion has been relaxed, only

within the last few years, in the case of medical
in the exercise of their profession.
men
TURKISH HOME LIFE.
Few
even
among
the Christian ladies resident in
Constantinople have time, opportunity, or inclina-
make themselves acquainted with the MusThe difference of re-
tion to
sulman homes around them.

ligion,
manners, and language form an insurmount-
able barrier
can be
little
to frequent intercourse
few subjects of
lish
while there
community of thought and
common
interest
lady and the Turkish
"
feeling
and
between the Eng-
hanum
" and so
it
frequently happens that intelligent and educated
women
will pass a great part of their lives in the
Turkish capital without acquiring one new idea to

correct those originally imported from their
Western
homes, to which they eventually return with the
supposed experience gained by their long residence
amongst the Mussulmans, and thus help unconsciously to confirm
But there
many
errors
on the
subject.
are travelling ladies eager, energetic,
truly desirous of gaining an insight into this secluded
harem
life.
They
are taken to pay a few visits in
some of the less " civilised " homes

sweetmeats ^nd
bouk or a
cofiee,
cigarette, get
they accept
endeavour to smoke a tchi-
through a somewhat tedious
amount of mild conversation with the help of a native

lady acting as interpretress, and the enthusiastic
travellers are supposed to
and rapid manner the

Turkey.
have mastered in
this easy
intricacies of female life in
40
Neither can a more truthful idea be formed of
Turkish
life
from the gay groups of veiled women
lingering in their carriages in the square of the
" Sultan Bayezid," or animating like
moving
flower-
meadows of the Sweet Waters of Europe
beds, the
These women do not represent the mass
and Asia.
The
of the feminine population.
ladies of a very
and orthodox Turkish household are seldom
strict
seen in the promenades frequented by the

inhabitants of the capital
''
ghiaour
some of them deem
"
it
almost a sin to pass, even in a carriage, through

the Christian suburb of Pera
little
about them, and forms
ject of
its
world knows
opinion on the sub-
Turkish households from such as are gradu-
ally adopting in
of the
so the
*'
some degree the manners and usages
Franks."
The
strictly
educated Turkish
lady shrinks from innovations so strongly opposed

to her sense of propriety, preferring as a safer rule
of life the law of seclusion in
which she has been
brought up.
Far from envying the
many Turkish hanums
liberty of the
Frank woman,
look upon the care with
which they are surrounded as a proof of the high

estimation in which they are held
relations
and they bestow a
by
their
male
half- contemptuous
pity on the Christian lady, whose life and occupations are so
untrammelled and so energetic.
Mussulman woman
is
The
generally content to lounge

TURKISH HOME LIFE.
through her existence, with
visits
made and
its
41
household duties, the
returned, the inspection of the wares
of female pedlars, and an occasional family picnic

in
some shady spot on the shores of the Bosphorus,
while those whose activity of mind takes a housethe homely cares
are busy with
wifely direction
which a numerous household must
make
or superintend the preparation of great stores
of pickles and preserves
the
They
entail.
making
included
they cut out and
of all the clothes of the
assist in
harem, slaves*
they embroider the towels, the coverings
for the pillows,
and many other
articles of daily use
and at certain times and seasons they superintend

the distribution of vast cauldrons of pillaw given to
the poor, and of ashoora, a sweet soup, which
pensed freely to
it
all
who
is dis-
present themselves to claim
on the tenth day of the month of Moharrem
the
first
month
of the
Mohammedan
year
at
which
time they commemorate the deaths of Hosein and

his followers at Kerbela.
great deal of time
is
in the examination of the
above-mentioned.
They are
for the
spent by Turkish
These women
infest the
harem.
most part Jewesses, and are the
principal source of the great
evil
penditure and debt which causes so
and ruin amongst them.

sulman women
women
goods of the female pedlars
to take
of lavish
much
ex-
distress
They encourage the Mustheir greatly overcharged
42
mercliandise on credit, and
all
the savings of the
manner
poor slave girls generally pass in this

their dishonest
hands
medium
are the
of
into
and, worse than this, they
unauthorised communications
with the outer world, and of intrigues, to which,

indeed, some Christians of Pera do not scruple to
lend themselves.
As may
naturally be imagined, the ceremony of
visiting forms an important element in Turkish
home
The most punctilious etiquette regulates this

method of killing time in the harems. Upon all
life.
occasions of festivity, public or private, visits are
interchanged, those of respect and duty taking the

place, children visiting parents,
first
younger bro-
thers and sisters their elders in the family, all de-
pendents hastening to compliment and to salute their

benefactors.
first
day
is
During the
festivals of
household, and nearest relations

those
less
Bairam the
devoted to the reception of the family,
on the other days
nearly connected with the family ofier
their congratulations.
The
slightest
change in the
daily routine supplies occasion for complimentary

visits
even the removal to summer quarters, or tne
return to town for the winter,

for the children
and friends
of the house on the auspicious
When
is
a sufficient reason
to felicitate the heads
change of residence.
a lady arrives on a visit she brings with
her, according to her position
and means, one or
TURKISH HOME LIFE.

She
two attendants.
43
received at the foot of the
is
staircase
by the superior women of the harem or by
the condition of the family admits of these
lalla, if
The
dependents.
visitor is
then carefully and slowly
assisted upwards, supported
on either side by the
elbow, and on reaching the head of the stairs her
yashmak and
feradje are removed.
be only a morning
call
The
may
visit
in that case the visitor fre-
quently retains a band of muslin across the fore-
head (a part of the yashmak) as a sign that she does

not intend to remain to dine, and, perhaps, to sleep
but, nevertheless the veil
is
which has been removed
carefully ironed out, the feradje neatly folded,
and
the whole out-door costume enclosed in a wrapper

until the lady
moves
pers are frequently
As
broidered.
to take leave.
made
These wrap-
of silk or satin, richly
the visitor advances into the
em-
room
she makes the salute called " temene," touching the
mouth and
She
forehead.
is
then seated on a line
with her hostess, who retains the seat of honour in

the comer of the divan, unless her visitor be of
decidedly superior rank
the temen^ are then recom-
menced, and minute inquiries are made after each
member
of the respective families.
In these inquiries
even the babies are included, with the ceremonious

title
of bey or
When
hanum.
the coffee
person will
make
is
handed round a well-bred
a slight t^m6ne addressed to the
44
hostess
cup
the same
desired to
repeated as the
is
show the utmost amount
and regard toward a

its
politeness
little
When
returned to the hand of the attendant.
is
it is
"yarf"
filagree or jewelled
"ca'imak,''
the cup
the tiny coffee-cup in
visitor,
daughter of the house
offered
is
creamy
the
of respect
by the
called
froth,
which usually forms on the surface of

poured
first
out, is considered as especially
complimentary,
Unmarried
even young married women^
girls, or
accompanying their mother or aunt on a visit, seldom

speak unless personally addressed, and then only in
a subdued and respectful manner.
younger
sister
never seeks to perform the duties of politeness which

properly devolve on the elder, but
is
found quite
prepared to do her part when, in her turn, she

arrives at the dignity of eldest
Young
girls
unmarried daughter.
do not in general take coffee or smoke,
those indulgences being considered as the privilege

of married or elder ladies.
enters or leaves the house
or two
without
No member
though
of a
harem
only for an hour
saluting the mistress of
it.
Chil-
dren kiss the hand of the hanum, then touch

with the forehead.
endeavour to
kiss,
Dependents
the
hem
kiss,
or
it
rather
of her robe, for good
breeding requires that the lady should withdraw her

dress from this salutation, as anxious to avoid the
act of
homage.
TURKISH HOME LIFE.

While praising much
that
is
45
admirable in the
manners and deportment of the young daughters of

well-conducted families,
we must
mode
up
that the
cially
of bringing
not omit the fact
little
children, espe-
of those belonging to the higher ranks,
is
sadly deficient in the careful moral training which,
with religious teaching,
we
in
England consider
are reared,
is true,
it
in habits of respect
as
They
the indispensable basis of sound education.
and sub-
mission towards their parents and elders, but no
healthy control
dispositions.
is
They
exercised over their minds and

are weakly indulged
by their mother and nurses,
in infancy
in childhood
by the
and the domestics of the selamlik, where
lallas
girls, until
freedom.
they adopt the yashmak,
They
little
may wander
in
are thus constantly in the society
and under the care of uneducated people, whose

excessive indulgence, as well as the conversations
carried on without restraint before the children, are
most
inj urious to
them
It is usual to accuse
dom and want

tion.
in every way.
Turkish
women
of great free-
of delicacy in this matter of conversa-
The blame may have been formerly
justified,
has been observed in this respect, although in
harems there
The
fully
but of late years a very great improvement
is
yet
much
above remarks
to be
many
amended.
apply more especially to
families that still retain the punctilious
and
stately
46
manner'* of
tlie
With
good old times.
the march of
progress some familiar usages and customs have been

relaxed, others altogether abandoned,
possible
civilisation
and
im-
it is
deny that in proportion as European
to
has made
way
its
into a household,
so
many habits and observances descriptively

known by Englishwomen as " nice ways of doing
also
things"
have
been
set aside, as old-fashioned
and
out of keeping with modernised ideas.
The Turks
This bright
well
known
as a people are exceedingly charitable.

trait of
to
the national character
is
too
need proof, yet I cannot refrain from
repeating the opinion of a French writer,
the East " the land of benevolence
who
calls
where pious
asylums are opened for science, for indigence, and

for sickness
where private charity has bordered the
public roads with fountains for the refreshment of
the wayfarer, and where the poorest village maintains

a
moosafirlik
may
'
or guests' room,
where the
traveller
and simple nourishment
find lodging
expense of the community."
at the
Beside the cloisters
where the imams and students are lodged, are found

the khans for the poor and the traveller, and the
hospitals for the sick;
libraries are also a
while colleges and public
dependence of the mosque that pro-
liberality," says a
Let the torrent of your

Turkish proverb, " flow from the
vides for their maintenance.
hand, so that the sound of
it
'
may not
reach the ear."
TURKISH HOME
47
LIFE.
In Turkish households, on every occasion of family

joy or grief the poor are remembered, and the
inmates of the harem are no
men
less
benevolent than the
The hanum, who seldom leaves

when she does so a well-
of the family.
her home, takes with her
alms-bag; and though the charity
filled
inate and often bestowed on
endeavours at least to
fulfil
is
unworthy
one of the
indiscrim-
objects, she
precepts
first
of her religion.
devout and scrupulous Moslem should perform
some
his
act of charity or benevolence

It is
life.
common
on every day of
here to see even the poorly
clad and rarely paid soldier drop, as he passes, his
mite into the bowl of the street-beggar.
no workhouses
ments for the
and, alas
There are
Stamboul; none of the establish-
in
relief of
poverty so liberally provided,
so insufficient, in our
own
country.
neither are they required in the same degree
the poverty
is less
But
not that
in proportion to the population,
but the charity exercised in the simplest and most

patriarchal form
poor
woman
is
unbounded.
arrives at the door of a
bundle containing
little
For
all
instance,
harem with her
her worldly possessions.
Perhaps she shows a few written words proving that

she
is
known
stranger, but
Her
place
is
to
some friend of the family
it is
she
is
enough. She enters unquestioned.
set at the
family table or amongst the
domestics according to her class in
life
mattresses
48
quilts are spread for lier at night,
and padded
and
she remains for several days a guest in the house.
On
her departure she receives a letter or recom-
mendation for another friendly harem, with some new

"
articles of clothing. It would be considered " ayib
(a disgrace)
to let her leave without, at least,
one
woman is frequently
entirely reclothed. There are many women, most of
them widows in very poor circumstances, who pass
new garment, and the poor
their lives
plorable waste of life
and
(until lately)
to
of
we should say in
But the utter absence
any attempt
habits of
A de-
time,'*
busy, hardworking England.
women
"
roaming from house to house.
to
educate Turkish
self-dependence and labour,
throws a vast class of the population upon the kindness of their richer neighbours,
and they might
perish but for the charity so ungrudgingly bestowed
upon them in these little-known Mussulman homes,

where many persons, especially women and children
who have
lost their natural protectors, are received
and supported permanently as members of the family.
At
tress,
this terrible time of bitter suffering
and
dis-
impoverished and
war
means
the homes of Stamboul
ruined though they be by the

to shelter, feed,
yet find
and clothe thousands of the starving
refugees from the Russian invasion,
whom
all
the
munificent charities of pitying Europe cannot suffice

to reach.
TURKISH HOME LIFE.
49
I can recall, as an instance, the admirable charity

of an excellent
Mussulman
lady, the wife of one of
the highest ministers of the State,
who received,
and sheltered forty of these unhappy
One woman amongst them,
more.
some
to
exiles.
terrible illness,
own
her
people,
fed,
She did
suffering from
was an object of repulsion even

and lay neglected and dying.
Did the delicate lady order her slaves to minister

the poor outcast ?
to
Calling one or two attendants,
own hands washed and
she went herself, with her
dressed the wounds, and soothed the last hours of

the unhappy " refugee " with the tenderest care and
pity.
The animals
also
have their part in the benevolent
nature of the Turkish character.
It is a
common
custom, especially at the season of Ramazan, to buy

a cage full of birds in order to liberate
them and
;
even the dogs, though accounted by Moslems as

impure, are never ill-treated by the Turkish inhabitants of the city.
They
them frequently
feed
their doors, provide a sort of litter
at
and a rude cover-
ing in winter for the mothers and their puppies, and
even in
many
cases leave
money
in their wills to
continue the distribution of food.
The Harem.
A
term
few words are necessary in explanation of the

**
VOL.
harem," as no word
II.
in
connection witU
50
Turkish homes has been more thoroughly misunderstood
by Western
nations.
literally " inviolable,
Harem,"
*'
sacred "
signifying
has two meanings.
It is used to express in a collective sense the
whole
feminine portion of a family, whatever the rank,

"
condition, and employment. By the word *' harem
we also understand
that part of a dwelling or locality
reserved for the residence or use of
Mussulman wo-
men, in contradistinction to the " selamlik "

place of salutation), inhabited solely
by the men of
There are harems in the steamers and
the family.
tramway
(the
carriages,
keeping the Mussulman
apart from the general
harems in mosques and dervishes'
tekes,
women
there are
passengers, as
where from
behind latticed screen-work they can participate unseen in the devotions of the hour.
A Turkish
konak when
dwelling of the better sort
in the city, a yali
when
is called
it is
residence on the shores of the Bosphorus.

ine, old-fashioned
konak
is built
and may almost be described

one
roof, the selamlik
as
a country
genu-
in two equal parts,
two houses under
and the harem
the gardens
also are separated.
The
position of the
harem may be
ascertained
by
the cafesses, or trellised wooden blinds, which are

fitted into
the windows on the outside.
These blinds
reach rather more than half-way up the
window
ground-floor windows are usually entirely screened.
TURKISH HOME
No harem windows
51
LIFE.
are without cafesses, excepting
such as are on the side of gardens from which they
cannot be overlooked.
Large wooden doors in the centre of the building
unpaved
access to a vast
give
coMres
to the poi'tes
similar
serving as renme
court,
for the carriages of the family
in France
four or five carriages
of different kinds, covered with sailcloth,

rally be seen standing
there
as in
may
gene-
France, the
family can thus enter their equipages under shelter.
The great
staircase leading to the selamlik faces the
entrance gates
on one
the door leading into the harem
side, protected
which shuts
it
harem
tall
lives in a
the door-porter attached to the
small room outside of
and near
it,
his quarters, fixed into the wall, is the pivot
which
all
is
wooden screen-work,
out from the view of the courtyard.
many konaks
In
by a
box
in
small articles called for from within are
deposited.
In the crowded quarters of the
city,
the lower
part of the konak towards the street, not required

for
the courtyard,
is
usually filled
by
shops, the
inhabited portion of the house being on the

floor
second story.
Between the selamlik and the harem
a large intermediary apartment

beyn.**
first
few of the old-fashioned dwellings possess a
It
may
is
called the
**
raa-
be used by either division of the
family, according to circumstances.
From
the term
52
mabeyn
is
derived the
mabeyndji, given to the
title
The kitchens
chamberlains of the Sultan.
of a
Turkish konak are mostly, but not always, attached

to the selamlik,
from which the meals are sent into
the harem twice a day.
In old-fashioned houses there are no rooms espe-
bedrooms
cially furnished as
the mattresses and
bedding, brought out at night, are kept during the
day in large
closets,
with which almost every room
You may
furnished.
is
frequently find also in
these dwellings of the olden time two large knobs
projecting from the walls at right angles, intended

for
suspending the baby's hammock.
Every
suite of
a " khazine "
treasury
rooms in a house
provided with
and great
in this all stores of clothing
supplies of bedding are kept.
particular value
room
is
(pronounced khaznah), literally the
Sometimes
articles of
are deposited in a fireproof stone
called the "
magaza."
The scrupulous
cleanliness that in a well-ordered
house regulates the smallest details of domestic
arrangement
is
very rarely to be met with elsewhere
out of England.
Nothing
is
prettier or
more dainty
than the white marble basin of ablutions, with
row of snowy towels suspended above

covered with a
of
Adrianople
" nalin "
gold-embroidered
soap standing
(high clogs),
on
it
its
and lightly
muslin,
one
a ball
side,
lined with scarlet
and
cloth.
TURKISH HOME LIFE.

ready to
the unslippered
protect
53
from the
feet
marble flooring.
In the apartments the invariable custom of leaving the outer shoes at the foot of the staircase keeps
the carpeting or matting free from
This
soil.
is
necessary, not only to secure the cleanliness of the

floor,
on which
any
stain
cutting out, spreading, and fold-
all
ing of garments
generally performed, but because
is
brought from the street would render
unfit for the use of the prayer-carpet.
household organisation
without which the
may
fires so
be
it
detail of
mentioned
here,
sadly frequent in Stam-
boul would be infinitely more numerous than they

are
at present.
It is
the duty that devolves on
the halaiks of large harems to pass the night, in

turn, as watchers.
The female "beckdji'' on duty
walks constantly about the galleries and corridors,
and but
for this precaution
few families would sleep
in safety.
When we
of a family
we
speak of a harem as applied to members
it
simply means the womankind.
Thus
use the word to indicate the feminine part of the
household of a sultana, in which
belong
to,
all
the
or are dependent upon, herself;
women
as we
speak of the harem of a householder, although several

of
its
members may be almost unknown
to
him
such as a brother's wife, some female relations and

poor dependents residing under his roof
yet they
54
form a part of the feminine division of his family,
and consequently of his harem.

Enthusiastic travellers meeting a procession of
carriages filled vrith veiled
contain the
harem of
women are
told that they
a bey or pasha.
with take careful note,
They
forth-
and eventually discourse on
the supreme felicity of the omnipotent owner of

so
much
Those who can see behind the
beauty.
yashmak know
terribly old
that
several
that the veiled group so

mystery comprises the " kiaya,"
and wrinkled
fascinating in
its
or housekeeper, an old nurse or two,
proportion of negresses.
prettier
women
are
of these houris
and
a plentiful
There are younger and
in the party, but
it is
possible that
they may, for the most part, belong to the rich

mistress of the household, in which case the master
himself
is
not entitled even to look upon their un-
veiled faces without the consent of his wife,
who
often holds steadily and jealously to her rights in

this particular.
No Mussulman may see

woman of his own faith
any very near
slave, or
the uncovered face of any
except his wife, his

relative within
own
the pro-
hibited degrees of marriage, such as mother, sister,
daughter, niece, or daughter-in-law.
Mohammed
;
of
allows to his followers four legally wed-
ded wives and as

purchase
The law
many
slaves as his
means can
but the doubtful privilege of polygamy
TURKISH HOME LIFE.

is
now
very rarely exercised, and
day extremely unusual
it is
65
in the present
meet with more than one
to
wife in the household of a Turkish gentleman of
moderate fortune.
In
many
of these harems the
halaiks, or slaves, are simply the attendants, per-
forming
the duties of domestic servants.
all
duties are light, as the labour
is
much
These
subdivided,
while for the heavier work of the house rayah women,
Greek or Armenian, are employed.
Polygamy
to be
is still
met with, though
as the
exception, not the rule, at the two extremes of the

social scale,
amongst the very great and wealthy and
amongst the poorer

second wife
may
With
classes.
these latter a
be taken in order to obtain the
money or of her labour, and there is

an ungallant proverb which declares that " the
benefit of her
acquisition of a
woman
acquisition of an ass
baggage
takes
more useful than the
is
"
Sur^djis,
horses, for instance,
them
to
men
in charge of
and others whose duty
two or three places in succession, will
be provided with a wife at either end of

to
make a home and look

In the harems of
men
fcbeir line,
after their interests.
of wealth
and high position
the possession of two or three wives and of a very
numerous retinue
is
regarded as a mark of rank and
importance, although there are well-known exceptions to this
day.
among
the
first
statesmen of the present
In these lavish establishments each lady must
56
SKETCHES or EASTERN LIFE AND SCENERY.
have
lier
separate dwelling, her carriages, and ser-
The
vants.
cost of this style of living
is
very great,
and the man of limited fortune cannot venture on

such extravagance. He is fond also of "kief" (repose),
and dreading
(as
who would not ?) the quar-
heartburnings, and jealousies of a multiplied
rels,
menage^
he
placidly
settles
down
respect-
into a
own
able domestic character, even according to our
standard of respectability.
Many
a quiet patriarchal
harem could be named where the one wife and

mother of the family
is
truly the house-mother,
looking after the welfare of children and slaves with
unremitting care
she
of her household, but
is
the undisputed mistress
she
the
is
first to
set the
example of tender and dutiful respect towards the

aged grandparents, of almost boundless charity to
the poor, and of hospitality to the " stranger within
the gate."
Gentleness towards
little
children and
amongst the most pleasing
respect for age are
tures in Turkish family
life.
The
little ones,
fea-
even
though they may be only halaiks, are never, under
any provocation, treated with roughness

filial
man
love and care with which
while the
a world- worn
soothes the declining years of his parents, par-
ticularly his
all
many
who
mother
the valide
is
well
known
to
are acquainted with the daily life of the
harem.
With regard
to
feminine
titles
and designations,
TURKISH HOME LIFE.
may
a short explanation
takes which are so often

title
of sultana
is
help to correct the mis-
made by
mother of the reigning
to the
It is never borne
Padishah.
The
strangers.
given exclusively to daughters and
and
sisters of sultans
57
by those
who
ladies
occupy the recognised position of his wives, as the
and excep-
sultan does not (except under very rare
go through the ceremony of
tional circumstances)
marriage, and his partners, of
whom
seven are per-
mitted, as officially acknowledged, are simply called
kadinn.
The mother
the highest rank,
is
of the eldest prince, taking
styled bash (head) kadinn
follow the second, third, etc.
then
After the kadinns
four ikbals, or favourites, hold a sort of titled pre-
cedence over the rest of the
monarch
this
is
women forming
the
The mother of the reigning
imperial household.
called the valide sultana
she acquires
rank on her son's accession, becoming at once a
personage of great importance and influence in the

State, in
which she holds the second
place,
and
enjoys immense revenues drawn from the Civil List.
In the harems of pashas and private gentlemen the
mother of the master of the house,

with her son,
is
and the head of

it
is
the wife
buyuk hanum," or great lady,

the harem
if there be no mother
;
who
is
styled
case of a second wife the
the
little
lady
she reside
if
the "
is
used
buyuk hanum.
title
" kutchuk
and the same
In the
hanum
is
**
applied to
58
the daughters of the house, or they
by
their
may
name, followed always by the
This style
is
maintained
in
family
be addressed
title
hanum.
intercourse
parents will frequently, but not always, use to an
unmarried child the simple name, but children, even
when grown
up, never mention their parents with-
out affixing the designation of respect, best expressed
by the French " Monsieur mon pere," " Madame

mere,''
and
and
it
ma
invariably used between brothers
is
an elder
sister being always addressed

spoken of by a younger as " abla," an elder
brother as " agha bey."
sisters,
or
In
all
matters of domestic etiquette and pre-
cedence the strictest rules are observed, and the

respect due to age never set aside
ters,
sons and daugh-
though they be themselves heads of
invariably rise
quits the room.
admirable in
Turks
to a
when
the father or mother enters or
This respect for the parental
many
cases, is yet carried
length which
among
for instance, a
tie,
the
we should think incom-
patible with the due freedom of reasonable
women
families,
men and
married daughter continues
always subject to the control of her father, and custom,
if
not law, forbids her to enter on any under-
taking, even with the willing consent of her hus-
band,
when
is easily
the father refuses his sanction.
obtained
Divorce
a husband needs only to pro-
nounce the words of separation, without the neces-
TURKISH HOME LIFE.

sity of assigning
case,
however, he
divorced wife
any reason
called
is
the
sum
In
for the act.
upon
of
59
to
pay over
this
to the
money which he has
acknowledged in the marriage contract as her dowry,
and in needy families

secures to the
A wife also
hanum
this
frequently
obligation
the continuance of her position.
can claim the right of divorce, but some
reason must be assigned for the
demand
amongst
the reasons defined by law, the impossibility in which

a
man may
find himself of maintaining his wife in a
style suitable to her rank, is regarded as sufficient

to justify
it.
liberated halaik
must, from the time of her
liberation, veil herself in the presence of her
master.
He may
as a free
woman, and not
his wife,
entitled to see her features,
those of a stranger.
been for
man
many
former
be the father of her children, but
As an
he
is
no longer
more than he would

instance,
Hourie had
years the devoted companion of a
of some position, and the careful and loving
mother of several children.
Their eldest daughter
married, and upon this occasion
it
was fully expected
that Hourie would receive the nikyah, or pledge of

espousal,
and gain the name, as she had
for
many
years faithfully fulfilled the duties, of his wife.
It
The pusha, with a harshness loudly

condemned by his friends and by the *' neighbourhood," gave the poor woman her liberty. She lives
was not
so.
60
in a small dwelling apart
from
that was once her home, and
her former husband

in the shrouding
it
tlie
if
can be
onlj^
yashmak and
handsome house
she sometimes sees
when enveloped
feradje.
Slavery.
The word
''
slave," so frequently in use
ing of a Turkish household,
is
when speak-
a term conveying to
mind an impression very different to its

true meaning in this country.
A Circassian slave
should be, according to Western ideas, a beautiful
the English
girl torn
from the arms of her distracted parents and
happy mountain home,
carried off from their
to pine
and die in the gilded prison of a Stamboul harem.
The picture may be filled in by the figure of a black

harem agha in untiring exercise of his cruel ''courbash "
of rhinoceros hide.
This estimate of the
condition of slaves in the East
and yet
it
is
not entirely
brated " half a truth."
sometimes seek
its
The courbash does
victims.
Circassian
sometimes decoyed or stolen from

but
it
does not
manner
false,
bears a strong affinity to Tennyson's cele-
so
all
come
their
to pass in the
dear to novelists.
in reality
women
are
homes,
dramatic
I turn to notes
and
information collected with great care and with no

small difficulty, as
it
rarely happens that a halaik,
TIRKISH HOME LIFE.
61
or slave, will consent to explain to a foreigner the
circumstances connected with her

country.
arrival in this
first
If the girl has been bought in infancy, all
remembrance of her Circassian home has passed from

her mind, but
if
she was brought here at a later age
she invariably asserts that she was stolen

of pride and
shame forbid her to
own
a feeling
that she
was sold by her own people, although careful inquiry will establish the fact in most cases.
cassian
husbands
not
home and
wives from
unfrequently
sell
them
years since.
ceased, as the
into
Turkey
decoy their
to the slave-dealers,
who dispose of them in Stamboul

The traffic in slaves, or rather,
Circassians for sale,
Cir-
as wet-nurses.
the importation of
was forbidden by law a few
The importation
has, in fact, nearly
mass of the Circassian people emigrated

after the occupation of their country
the Russians, but the internal
on as vigorously
as ever.
The
traffic
by
in slaves goes
Circassians, indeed,
as a rule, rear their offspring with
no other object
than to get out of this live-stock the best possible

profit,
sending them from miserable homes to make
their fortunes in the capital.

to their personal
They have an eye
also
advantage in this venture, for
if
the daughter should chance to become the wife of a

good, benevolent man, he
many such
and
may
probably (there are
instances) seek out her relatives to assist
benefit them.
The parents
are then cared for,
SKETCHES OF EASTERN LIFE AXD SCENERY.
62
the brothers and sisters educated and maintained

the whole family gets a
lift
in the world.
Halaiks are usually bought very young, at three

or four years of age, and, as the
ially
Turks are proverb-
tenderhearted towards children, these
are treated with great care
and kindness.
ones
little
They
are
the pets of the household, and are not unfrequently
adopted by the hanura, in which case they become

free,
sharing in
all
the advantages of the children of
the family, and in due time are suitably married.
pretty, intelligent slave girl or adopted daughter
is
very often chosen and carefully educated to become

the wife of a son of the house.
who
Little slaves
continue to be halaiks are brought up as servants.
All receive a slight smattering of education, d
la
Turque, being taught to recite some portions of the
Koran and sometimes, in great households,

little,
when,
education
is
if
to write a
they show remarkable aptitude, their
continued in order that they
may become
readers and writers of a more advanced order or kiayas housekeepers. They learn
in time, kiatibs
also to
embroider and to make their
own
clothes,
while some are taught music, dancing, and a
little
French. These accomplishments increase their value

considerably, and
it
becomes with some people a
matter of revolting speculation to educate batches of

little
Circassians,
as
you may fatten rabbits
for
market, buying them cheap in their infancy and
TURKISH HOME LIFE.

them a few years
native dirt, and selling

all
63
later,
The
acquired graces, at a high price.
their
value of a halaik begins at about
80
with
100;
or
an accomplished musician or dancer may bring her
owner nearly ten times as much.
When
slave
little
arriving,
it
may
newly brought into a harem
is
be,
from Circassia or from some
miserable hovel in the interior

is
to put her into a bath
receives, at the
and
the
first
thing done
to cut off her hair.
same time, a new name of a
She
fanciful
and descriptive kind, and, thus cleansed, dressed, and

transformed, she
handed over
is
to the care of
an
elder slave. If newly separated from the " distracted
parents," she must be for a few days very miserable,
poor
little waif, for
and as the
as
she can only speak " Tcherkess,'*
dialects in that
the tribes,
it
is
house can understand her

ish rapidly,
tongue are as numerous
probable that no one in the

;
but she learns the Turk-
and quickly becomes a member of the
family, sufficiently contented with her lot,
which in
many
In great
respects
houses,
is
an elder
by no means a hard
slave,
direction of others), will
three of the children.

trains
them
clothing,
one.
a calfa (one
who has
the
have the charge of two or
She teaches them
to work,
in household duties, looks after their
and takes care of them generally, receiving
in return all the services that they can perform.
They
clean and arrange her
room
(if
old enough),
64
wash and iron
and wait upon
lier clotlies,
The
her.
child in process of time becomes a calfa in her turn.
In imperial harems (those of married members of

the Sultan's family) there are frequently as
women and
a hundred
girls
many
as
the labours of the
household are consequently almost nominal duties

for
many
of them, but a large retinue of slaves being
considered indispensable to the maintenance of high

rank, eight or ten
women
are required to get through
the work that one stout, active, maidservant in our
own country
In quiet
could accomplish with ease.
families of moderate fortune the
of course, very
much
number
of halaiks
smaller, but even then,
only two or three persons require attendance,
appear necessary to have
five or six
it
is,
where
would
handmaidens and
;
the mistress herself frequently takes an active part

in domestic matters.
of labour the
life
It follows that
of a slave here
laborious than that of
any one
on the question
infinitely less
is
of our maids-of-all-
work, and (setting aside that which should never be

lost sight of
the very great moral wrong of the whole
system) their advantages
may
to be considerably greater.
hold
is
well-fed, lodged,
be
said, in
Every
one sense,
slave in a house-
In very rich
and clothed.
harems they are surrounded with much comfort and

even luxury, and in these households
to
make
it is
very usual
presents of money, sometimes to a consider-
able amount, for dress, ornaments, etc.
These sums
TURKISH HOME
being distributed montbly have come in

to be regarded in
the
65
LIFE.
many
light of ailik, or
houses
monthly
wages, although slaves are not, of course, entitled to
The
wages from their owners.

they are
made
gifts are voluntary;
partly from natural generosity and
kindly feeling, in order to gain the attachment of the

household, partly in order that
it
may make
a hand-
some appearance, and contribute, with other property
carriages
family.
and horses
maintain the state of the
to
It is usual to double the
customary present
when two
at the festival of Bairam,
or three
new
dresses are also given.
Handsome
gifts are
great family rejoicing.
made upon all occasions of

In a harem which might be
named, the eldest daughter,
still
unmarried, has
about ten halaiks belonging to her, and a younger

sister
has three as her personal attendants.
mansion the chief

500/?.
lalla,
In this
or black guardian, receives
54 per annum), the kiaya

women and
amounts, down to 50/;. a month given
per month (about
nearly the same sum, and the rest of the

girls various
to the little ones.
In another establishment of high
much
rank, the kiaya receives as
than 9) a month
same
liberal scale.
as 10 liras (more
the rest of the harem, on the
In this family, as
the case with others of the same
who
is
frequently
class,
the slaves
have been married and settled out of the house
continue to receive a
VOL.
II.
sum
F
for
maintenance, piid
66
These engagements are regarded as bind-
montlily.
ing in honour
if
not in law, and should circumstances
occur to stop for a time the regular payments, they

are considered as a debt to be discharged as soon as
practicable.
There
is
a deep sense of faithfulness in
the Turkish character, a strong clinging to old ties
and
associations,
and in well-conducted families those
friends or dependents
who have once known
them
are very rarely
or served
unless for serious reasons
set aside or forgotten.
little
When
ceremony in connection with the
the
tion of
new
may
dresses
distribu-
be mentioned here.
the stuffs are brought into the harem, the
mistress of the family will direct the selection
and
allotment of them, according to the age, complexion
and known
taste of the wearer.
humble negress and the

are not overlooked.
little
Then the
In
this matter the
newly- arrived halaik
stuffs are
spread upon
the ground to be cut out, and the lady or her kiaya,

or perhaps the head calfa, with an
scissors,
immense pair of
inaugurates the work for each garment, sayfirst cut, " Bismillah " (in the
ing as she gives the
name of God).
As already mentioned, the white slaves
are seldom called
upon
to
in a
harem
perform any of the rough
They wash their own and their

mistress's linen, work for her and for themselves,
serve the table, and sweep the rooms.
"When scourwork
of the house.
TURKISH HOME
67
LIFE.
ing and house- cleaning are required,
it is
either
done
by the negresses or by women hired by the day.
The meals
are most usually cooked in the selamlik
and sent into the harem

ever food
women,
cook,
in covered dishes.
When-
dressed within the dominions of the
is
almost invariably a negress
it is
and she
is
who
is
the
sure to appear on the scene before
the end of the repast to receive the compliments of
the guests on her achievements, which are by no
means inconsiderable.
There
is
no legal limit
by halaiks to
very
much
their owners
to
;
the term of service due
the customary time varies
in different families.
slave
bought in
infancy, being of no great use in a house before the
age of ten or twelve,
them
it is
very usual to exact from
after that time several years of active service.
Slaves begin to expect their liberty after seven years

of work, but they do not often obtain
it
may
be not at
clever,
and
all,
it
so speedily,
especially if they are bright
their attendance has
and
become valuable
to
Some ladies will, however, forego

own comfort in justice to a girl who has
their mistress.
their
behaved
well.
She
is
considered as having gained
her paper of freedom, and

if
opportunity
is
married from the house
Handsome presents are made

marriage, in money and furniture,
offers.
at the time of the
and they remain humble friends of the family,
coming frequently
to
visit their
former home and
68
whom they
companions, from
welcome.
If a calfa
who
always receive a hearty
many
has been
years in a
house does not marry, she remains with the family

very
it
much
at liberty to
do whatever she
likes,
and
often happens that a halaik will refuse to leave a
home where
she enjoys comfort and abundance, for
the liberty of a house of her
means of
existence.
own with
its
humbler
In many harems the rooms of
the slaves are exceedingly comfortable, and even

luxurious, carpeted and
ciently furnished.
warmed in
The
winter, and
suffi-
women, such
principal
as
the kiaya, the nurse, and the bash or head calfa,
have apartments given to them which many ladies
might be glad
The kiaya
to occupy.
is
a personage of great importance in
the household, and holds a post of much responsibility.
She
the female house-steward
is
looks after the
change of houses between town and country, makes

all
the important purchases for the family, negotiates
matters of business in the department of the harem,
and pays
visits
with her mistress, or alone, as her
vakeel or representative.
harem has her own carriage

table,
often her separate
where she receives the guests of secondary
degree.
her.
kiaya in a very great
She has two or three halaiks
It is usually
this office of kiaya.
some elderly
free
The wet nurse
to attend
upon
woman who fills

of the hanum
the sud'ua, or milk-mother (from " sud " milk and
TURKISH HOiTE LIFE.

" ana
**
mother)
69
no home
ties of
by her
also a great lady, treated
is
foster-child with every consideration.
If she havo
her own she continues to live with
her as an honoured friend, and even when married

out of the house, she
former
home on
is
more often
a long
visit.
to be
The
found in her
dada, or nurse,
enjoys almost the same consideration and influence.
The bash
calfa is the mistress of the slaves.
her duty to see that the
women and
girls
Some
their part in the household labours.
slovenly,
is
establish-
ments are admirably ordered and regulated

are careless and
It
perform
others
depending generally on
the degree of efficiency of the bash calfa.
The preceding remarks apply

numerous harems, not
to those
to
wealthy and
more modest homes
where the mistress and her daughters take their

active share of domestic supervision.
slave
oblige her
who
owner
often exercised.
is
unhappy and discontented can
to sell
her again.
This right
is
not
Slaves of an imperial household
are never resold, but
if
a sultana wishes to part with
one of her women, she either makes a present of her

or
sends her
away on a
visit
to
some friend or
dependent, in whose house she remains until they

find her a husband, or she returns perhaps to the seru i.
Slaves are not often beaten
by command of the
master or mistress, unless for very grave offences

then the punishment
is,
indeed severe, and the black
70
harem agha, usually a mild and good-natured member of the household, does not spare the strokes of
his terrible courbash
upon the almost uncovered form
of the delinquent.
But
floggings,
day these
in the present
which are not of very common occurrence,
are usually due to the jealousy or tyrannical temper
unknown
when they have
of a kiaya or a bash calfa, and are inflicted

to
the heads of the house, who,
cause for serious displeasure, will either
the
sell
offending halaik or give her away.
very great proportion of the Circassian girls
and a
die early of consumption,
harem whose
life
despaired of
is
In
of the house to die.
tenderness
is
slave in a great
shown, and
it
is
cast forth
her brief
always sent out
mercy or
then that the poor

her destiny.
halai'k feels the full bitterness of

is
is
this matter, little
She
from the home where she has lived out
life
not
unhappily
breath amongst strangers

as quickly as possible.
or whose loving care
the dying girl
it
to
draw her
last
a burden to be shaken
There
is
may be
off"
no one whose duty
to cherish
and soothe
perhaps some one of her companions,
more pitying than the

nurse and tend her, but
rest,
it is
may
devote herself to
most often to the simple,
warm-hearted negress the motherless, forsaken halaik

turns for comfort in her dark hour of pain and trouble.
Mohammedan marriage does not imply community

of property, and
it
follows that if a slave, the pro-
TURKISH HOME LIFE.
71
perty of the hanum, should bear a child, the infant

(even though the father be the master of the family)
is
born her
and
slave,
may
be sold by her at will
but the child borne by a slave to her master
is
legitimate and entitled to all rights and privileges
hanum
equally with the children of the
upon the acknowledgement of the

sometimes withheld.
father,
which
is
frequently happens that
It
the master's fancy seems to incline towards one
of his wife's attendants, the halaik

of the house under
practicable, the lady
some pretext,
is
this willingly
either sent out
or, if
that be not
makes a virtue of necessity and
They sometimes
presents the slave to her husband.
do
in both
however, a child's claim to paternity depends
cases,
when
an instance occurs to
me
in the
family of an imam, which consisted of an elderly
lady and a younger one, the mother of two children.
The
elder lady, the first wife
and mistress
house, finding herself childless,
Hagar
to her
Abraham, and she exhibited quite a
grandmother's fondness for the

they
said,
in great
law
and
little ones, living,
harmony with the second
Such harmony, however,
is
custom,
resents
claims to her husband's
diminution of her
inheritance.
own
wife.
rather the exception than
The Mussulman woman,
the rule.
of the
had presented a
in despite of
indignantly
affection,
as
all
rival
well as the
children's portion of the
72
If the child of a slave-mother dies,
as
sold,
it is
customary
woman away in marriage she cannot be

all these women become virtually, if not
to give the
They take rank from
actually, free.
their children,
and are known not by any distinctive name of their

own, but as the mother of such a young bey or
hanum.
her
own
halaik
is
not of
people, not from
morality in her condition of
no
She
social rank.
is
much
account amongst
any feeling of a lack of

life,
but because she has
always mentioned with a
certain degree of contempt, even
by those who were
themselves hala'iks before some rich man's choice

raised
them
wedded
free-born
is
an
to
the position
of free
women and
To be a "schehirle" hanum (a
woman, literally a lady born in the city)
wives.
acknowledged
many men
title
of
respectability
of rank and high station
yet
marry halaiks
in order to avoid the trammels of a wife's family
connections.
These Circassian women, having a remarkable
power of adapting themselves
to a higher position,
prove quite equal to the occasion, and become as

ladylike
and well-mannered
as the
most undeniable
" city-born " dames.

lady, particularly
The demeanour of an Eastern

when receiving visitors in her own
much
of that self-possession and repose
house, has
which with us
is
thought
to
be inseparable from
good birth and gentle breeding.
TURKISH HOME LIFE.
We
have spoken hitherto of white
negresses
what
id
The
Nubians and Abyssinians are on a some-
different footing.
fact of
slaves.
For the white
girls,
the
being brought to Stamboul and there sold
is,
according to their ideas, a fulfilment of a natural

destiny, which
tion,
may
lead
them
to the highest
promo-
and through which they may aspire even to
the imperial rank of Valid^ Sultana
but the poor
negress has no such golden dreams to soften the

bitterness of slavery.
Circassians
embark
willingly,
nay, joyfully, for the scene of their anticipated success
and triumph
merciless
down by the
negroes are hunted
slave-dealers,
carried off
by
force,
and
seared and scored like sheep, to be driven in gangs,

of which less than one-half survive the journey.
The abominable cruelties of the African slave trade

it is
are too well known to need any comment
;
happy for those poor victims who live to reach Stamboul that a more merciful and humane treatment
them in the homes of the Ottoman capital.

Once domiciled they are secure, with few exceptions,
of a sufficiency of food and clothing, with duties and
awaits
labour which are not unduly heavy

naturally bright
while their
and joyous natures make them
quickly forget the past suffering, and
many
speedily
gain by their gentleness and fidelity the consideration
and love of the family.
The value
of a black slave
is
considerably less
74
Being destined exclu-
than that of a white one.
sively for domestic service, they receive
tion
no educa-
they are trained as nurses and as cooks, for
which they have a peculiar aptitude, and they are
employed in the coarser and rougher labours of the

house.
As
nurses they devote themselves to their
infant charges with a tenderness that nothing could

surpass,
and
it
from them that the sick or the
is
sorrowing white girl finds sympathy, and consolation,
and gentle, loving
On
care.
the other hand,
the excitable negro nature, as easily open to evil

as to
good impressions, makes them the chosen
in-
struments of punishment, and sometimes even of
There
vengeance.
is
the Abyssinians and the

parts of Africa
marked
women
while an Abyssinian girl

:
is
and woolly
lips,
hair,
frequently a model of
delicate featured, with small aquiline
nose, long tresses of raven hair,

like
Nubia and other
these last show the well-known
type of broad noses, thick
dusky beauty
difference between
of
an antique bronze.
and a figure moulded
They
are very delicate,
however, and consequently expensive and rare, and

the strong, uncomely, but good-natured-looking negress
the
useful household drudge
is
the sort of
coloured property the most often to be met with.
Another
aghas or
class of slaves, the black eunuchs, called
lallas (guardians), are
seldom found in the
present day but in houses of the
first
rank, where
TURKISH HOME LIFE.
75
they are an indispensable part of the wealth and
grandeur of the family.
carriage or seated on the
walking beside a
lalla
raised
part of a
after
caique, denotes the social position of the veiled ladies
whom
they accompany
while a
lalla
who
displays
a strip of blue silk round the collar of his coat, pro-
claims the passage of
members of the imperial house-
These blacks, who are apt to be haughty and
hold.
overbearing in public, while in charge of the harem,

are gentle
They
and good-natured enough
act as commissioners
in private
life.
and messengers between
the outer world and the inmates of the harem, and

their
most often-recurring duties seem
to consist in
conveying long and ceremonious compliments to the

ladies
from members of the family and friends who
are not privileged to deliver their polite sentiments
The
in person.
lallas also are especially
as guardians of the children
employed
when walking,
driving,
or riding, and they submit only too indulgently to
the tyranny and youthful wills of the
little
beys
and hanums.
usually a porter an
whose special duty consists in attend-
In the better houses there

elderly
man
is
ing to the door of the harem.
He
not only carefully
questions and scrutinises all
who
pass in and out,
but he must be constantly on the watch for messages
from the unseen feminine population within.

attention
is
called
His
by an uncouth sound of thumpiug
76
on hollow wood, proceeding from a wooden receptacle inserted in the wall beside the great door
is
open on one
side,
it
and, turning on a pivot, receives
various articles which are thus twisted round into
the harem precincts without exposing the
women
to
but their voices and unlimited requirements

leave the old " kaboudji baba " little repose or kief.
view
The aiwass
house
is
the general useful servant of the whole
several are
carrj^ the dinners,
employed in large families
to
they
execute commissions, and do most
Aiwass are frequently called
of the hard work.
upon
accompany
parties of the
women and
chil-
dren who are not entitled to expect the escort of a

lalla.
These aiwass are mostly Armenians, free
vants receiving wages

greater number,
if
not
the same
all,
may
ser-
be said of the
the white male domestics
and attendants, the blacks only being purchased

slaves.
VI.
Fancies
A WINTER
and Facts. A
THE SUNNY
IN
Luxury.
Dog's
EAST.
Snowstorm.
The
Hurricane. Pleasure and Peril. " Yangheun Var!'* the

Half-Buried City. StagnaCry of the Night Guardian.
tion.The Fear of Famine.The Black Sacks. The Snowclothed "Simny East." Great Disasters in Asia Minor.
The Fatal Snow An Impromptu Montague

Modelling. A Thaw and a Breath of
Wild Boars and Wolves

drifts.
Disasters
Russe."
Street
at
in the Suburbs.
**
Sea.
Summer.
"When one speaks of the ** sunny " East, imagination

pictures a warm and luminous country, sparkling
with sunlight, pleasantly refreshed, after the great
summer
heats, with breezes
perfumed by groves of
The East is the enchanted land

romance, the home of poetic reverie, of luxury
orange and citron.

of
and pleasure.
Beside this fantastic dream
let
us
place a reality, passing in review some of the days
which have just gone by in
this
year of grace
1874.
Until the end of January the weather had been
such as
is
most usual
sunshine and of rain,
melted
some sudden
at Constantinople
some
squalls,
falls
of
days
snow,
varied by
of
soon
summer
SKETCHES OF EASTERJf LIFE AND SCENERY.
78
Such are our usual winters, but from
brightness.
when the
time to time, particularly

tern Europe
is
season in "Wes-
exceptionally mild, the hurricane
and the snowstorm descend upon our Eastern land

with redoubled severity.
In the
first
days of February a considerable
snow whitened the
city, to the great
of the wandering dogs

stance rapidly spread
fall
of
astonishment
but as the beautiful sub-
its soft
down upon
open-air couches, they soon found
their hard
delightful,
it
and
rolled with joy in this unusual luxury.
snowed gently
It
and great
coast,
one,
flights
making
from
at intervals
during several days,
of birds were
this,
Men
balls,
keep
persistently
slept
last,
would
it
off epidemics, fertilize the
put on their fur coats
But, at
Every
it
was
fill
our
predicted severe weather, but
rather a benefit than otherwise

cisterns,
seen to quit the
for the interior of the country.
country.
the dogs, in round furry
every one was resigned.
the wind began to play
its part,
and
then a real snow tempest, driven straight from the
Russian steppes, wrapped the town as in a winding sheet.

stopped
possible.
The harbour
is
invisible
the boats are
the circulation of carriages becomes im-
Now
and then a
foot passenger,
braving
the tempest, climbs with difiiculty the street exposed

to
the northern blasts
the daylight fades
pale and flickering street- lamps are
the
extinguished
A WINTER IN THE SUNNY EAST.

by the hurricane, each instant more
^9
violent,
more
sinister.
There
is
a ball to-night at the palace of the Aus-
The robust Armenians who carry
trian Embassy.
the sedan-chairs will hardly consent to take charge

of their usual burdens
the service
along the steep and slippery

loving public cannot forego
streets,
is
dancing
around.
The wind
charge of cannon
wild
gaiety
dancing, there below
sinister hush.
there,
It swells,
Ah
unhappy
cry,
striking the
guardian,
it
they are dancing
and from the Black
the gathered power

roars, it bursts
merciful
Heaven
in
It
stifled
is
sound of a club
the club of the night
gives warning of
fire.
It
bums with
fearful violence on the neighbouring hill-top,
those
have
and the
snow.
who
are
souls that struggle with the
terrors of that fatal shore
loud
They
where the lights tremble
Sea comes a low rolling sound
dis-
then, suddenly, nothing
amidst flowers and perfumes
pity on the
filled.
on our house like a
feebly across the wild darkness
thousand thunders
partly
snow, hail, and wind mingle in
an ominous,
of the tempest.
is
and the storm rages wildly
falls
whistling shrieks
not a breath
dangerous
amusements; fabulous
its
prices are offered, and the ball-room
There
is
but a pleasure-
who remember the
tremble with anxiety
terrible catastrophe of
and
1870
but here the thick snow
SKETCHES OF EASTERN IJFE AXD SCENERY.
80
renders good service
the sparks
fall,
hissing,
In spile of the wind, the
are extinguished.
and
fire is
soon mastered.
The next day, the tempest continuing, the town

is
It is scarcely distinguishable
half buried.
the frozen panes

so
the neighbouring street, usually
man
animated at this hour, shows us one
courageous than his fellows

slope, slowly
and
who
more
climbs the steep
^'Milk" in
painfully, crying out
" Soudji, soudji," the cry reaches
a stifled voice.
U8, sad
through
and mournful,
like the cry of a perishing
soul.
That day the

is silent,
street cab
life
The telegraph
of the city stops.
the railway, the tramcar, the omnibus, the

!
Nothing moves
as well as the
banks and
the
Exchange
is
closed,
Some
Galata.
offices of
shops, open for a short while, are quickly shut again,
and in the midst of
this sad
perplexity there are
serious fears of the failure of provisions
No
stores are
and
firing.
made here against a season of excepOne lives from day to day and if
tional severity.
these tempests should endure yet a short while,
famine and the

doors.
last
degree of misery would be at our
The municipality
is
aroused
they discover
that the charcoal merchants are hiding their fuel to

raise the price,
at first,
and an order
but soon afterwards
to authority,
is
issued.
It is resisted
perhaps in submission
perhaps through fear of an early cessa-
A WINTER IX THE SUNNY EAST.

tion of the cold
the
point
whiteness of the street
is
and the sad
yielded,
spotted
is
81
day by an
all
irregular procession of black sacks carried
up slowly
by the labouring " hamals."

Some days later sad news comes
from the
environs, and, above
in
The
from the provinces.
all,
snow tempest, which passed lightly over Southern

has descended with overwhelming violence
liussia,
on Asia Minor, Greece, and even Syria.

mountains, the Parthenon,
classic
snow.
are draped in
Jerusalem witnesses the rare spectacle of
streets spread
is
all
Athens, the
with this unexpected substance
on Anatolia that the heaviest calamities have
The
and
its
but
it
fallen.
post expected from Koniah does not arrive,

it is
feared that the caravan, sometimes number-
ing forty men, with their horses, must be

snowdrifts
the flocks in
all
lost in the
that part of the country
have perished by thousands, and, to complete the

misery, the wild boars and the wolves, driven from
the forests by hunger, have ventured even to the
environs of Pera and Stamboul.
tragedy
is
related,
and
(all
Every hour some
allowance
exaggeration) enough remains to
fill
made
for
one with the
deepest pity.
It is said that
some milk-carriers, crossing
at early
dawn a ravine that nearly touches the last houses of our

outskirts,
were attacked and devoured by the wolves
that on these rare occasions

VOL.
II.
come down from the
82
forest of Belgrade
workmen on the
Many
fate.
railways, have
persons also
family of twelve
have
snow without food or
The same
pelago,
In the
and from the Balkans.
sportsmen, shepherds with their flocks,
environs,
terrible
in
met with the same

one
whole
case
been found dead
the
in
fuel.
news reaches us from the Archi-
and especially from Crete, where several
mountain
villages
have been suddenly cut
of misfortunes seems never
Accounts from the sea
The wrecks
tressing.
from
off
The long
communication with the outer world.
list
full.
are, if possible,
are innumerable.
more
dis-
During
the night of the great tempest, the finest steamer in

the Russian service broke
Bosphorus
brought to land by the
and
down
happily without
lifeboat service
men
at the
mouth of the
loss of life, as all
were
of the admirable rocket
under Mr. Palmer
but
many
down far from all possibility of

and the number of those victims must ever
smaller boats went

help,
remain unknown.
The storm has exhausted its fury the wind has

but the snow remains, and the steep streets of
Pera are enlivened by a slipping and sliding crowd.
A narrow and rugged pathway before our house
;
fallen,
shows the comic side of this strange winter scene,

with
many
variations.
Now
it
is
a group of chil-
A WINTER IN THE SUNNY
who rush down
dren, in wild spirits,
the slope on
wooden frames, that they usually keep

lights of slippery
mud
then
for the de-
a Turkish
it is
83
EAST.
woman,
or perhaps a negress carrying some heavy bundle.
After patient but vain attempts at the usual method

of descent, she avoids the risk of falling by bravely
subsiding on to a corner of her cloak, and in an

instant
is
down
the slide in safety.
Some Europeans
plant the feet firmly, and descend with an air of
The
calm majesty.
Oriental, incapable of so bold a
deportment, hesitates, clings to the rough stones,

wavers, and often reaches the bottom unexpectedly,
and rather upside down.
At Stamboul and
at
Pera the great heaps of snow
have developed in the population a new taste for

modelling.
Every open
by a
some other beast of unknown form and
lion or
species,
not
bit of
ground
ornamented
is
while snowballs are flying about, though
always
well
received
by the unaccustomed
native.
Some days
later.
The wind
south, the sun shines, the air
rapid thaw.
Much
white
is
is
is
blowing from the
heavy
there
is
yet seen on the opposite
mountains and plains of Asia; much yet remains

even in Constantinople
but such
is
of temperature here, that the weather
the inequality
is
hot, stifling.
People begin to talk of their summer arrangements
and
to seek for
country houses.
During u month or
84
two we
shall
have some rain and much
mud
then,
without transition, the summer, the radiant summer

of the Bosphorus
and of
all
this
deluge of snow
with which Turkey has been visited, there will only

remain, as a souvenir, some patches of eternal whiteness on the distant summits of
Olympus above the
beautiful range of mountains that borders the Gulf
of jSîcomedia.
VII.
THE ART OF
LIVING, ACCORDING TO
GREEK
FOLK-LORE.
The use
Further Value of Slippers. Na
" Giving and Taking, Spilt Salt must be Peppered.
Baleful Day.
How
to Dismiss a Visitor Politely.
of Salt in a Slipper.
Na
**
Sad Consequences of SitUnwinding a Spell. The Risk of Tying up

a Destiny. How Vinegar becomes Musty. An Easy Way of
En.suring Custom. How to Mend a Broken Head. Great
The Danger
of a Half-open Door.
ting on a Box.
"Wash"
Dangers connected with the
of a Household.
Awful
The Danger of
Tliree-legged Trivets have Grave Responsibilities.
Result of Oipen Scissors. The Three Cloves.

Hasty Compliments. The Evil Eye.
During the many years
in
which
have been living
in contact with the unlettered classes of this country,
I have found frequent
amusement
items of their folk-lore as came in
in gleaning such
my
path.
Some
of these are very quaint, as the following samples,

collected chiefly from
Tuesday
which
is
Greek
sources, will show.
considered a most unfortunate day on
to begin
any kind of work
from the cutting
out of a dress to the sailing of a ship,
wrong
the dress will not
ferment, the house will be
fit,
weak
all
must go
the sweetmeats will

in its foundations,
the ship will most certainly be wrecked.
One hour
86
SKETCHES OF EASTERX LIFE AND SCEXERT.
out of the twenty-four
especially baneful, that
is so
grow
a child beginning life at that time is sure to
up
and unmanageable.
vicious
knows exactly which
is
Tuesday-born children
may
one, however,
]Nô
the fatal period, and all
enjoy the benefit of the
doubt, until their perversity betrays the malignant

influence that overshadowed their birth.
If you wish to dismiss a visitor without incurring
the painful necessity of hinting that the visit
unwelcome,
let
some one quietly
slip a
pinch of
into his goloshes, left outside the door, and
the unconscious
diately
You may then with
guest resolves to
him
safety entreat
the pleasure of his society
him
nothing
is
death
of
is
only a
little salt
is
is
taken as
Here
neighbourhood.
the
that
prolong
to
easier than to avert the omen.
toe of a slipper,
you may
in
depart.
to leave.
In many counties the howling of a dog

sign
salt
imme-
nothing can withstand
the subtle power that compels
is
required
put
which you turn gently
Again,
it
in the
it
over,
and
rest in peace.
slipper
is
should always
a strangely
be
one
at
useful
hand
article
there
for emergencies.
Terribly bad luck will befall a family if one of
its
members is allowed, unchecked, to grind the teeth

when asleep quickly strike the mouth of the
;
offender with a slipper three times and the family
misfortunes are avoided.
;;
THE ART OF LTVIXG.

The mysterious
beds are moved to
influences that hover round our

evil
by other grievances besides
the gnashing of teeth.

the head of a sleeper
the
is
black handkerchief on
thoughtlessly so bound
interest in the sleeping sinner,
Na
Na! " take
There
flight for evermore.
During twelve days before Christmas,
carefully avoid giving anything to
come
of
it
member never
and
if
at all
any one, or harm
times and seasons, re-
to give either salt or ashes
take what they need
but
will cast off all
and with the gesture
great danger in giving and taking in-
is
cautiously.
will
up
her good destiny peeping in at the door
and seeing the sombre headdress,

"
Woe to
an abomination.
woman who may have
her brows
87
of those
let
people
homely substances,
you give them, your house
will inevitably be
burned down.
Never take a piece

the giver lay
let
it
of soap from a friend's
down, and you
may
take
hand
it
up
with safety, and thus avoid the bitter quarrel which
would surely follow the
neglect
of this
trifling
precaution.
To
but
if
spill either oil or spirits is
wine
is spilt
fairly rejoice in the
If salt
is
by a genuine
most unfortunate
accident,
you may
happy prognostic.
spilt unintentionally, it is sufficient
scatter a little
pepper upon
it
to
to arrest the evil con-
sequences which would otherwise follow.
88
A half-open door may
occasion serious misfortunes.
If the door of the house
corpse
carried past,
is
it
standing open when a
is
must be shut in
all haste,
or the uneasy spirit that has so lately left its earthly
tenement
is
up
will glide in to take
On
not desired.
its
abode where
it
the doorstep of the house from
which the poor body has been
so hastily
removed, a
vase or bottle of wine must be thrown
down and
broken, that
lost
it
may
not, at least, seek to re-enter its
home.
If the door of a cupboard

visitor
may happen
worldly goods
disastrous
partially open, a
is left
to glance unconsciously at the
up within
stored
but the most
results will follow the innocent glance,
as the property
wiU gradually but surely
slip out of
the possession of that family by the fatal power of

the " evil eye."
A person
who
sits
down
to rest
upon a box
filled
with clothing may, quite unwittingly, hinder the
happy marriage of the young

are packed up there
tainly prevent the old
girl
whose belongings
adverse influences will cer-
woman, whose business it is

from coming to tliat family
to negotiate marriages,
to seek for a bride.
Again, any one
who
of those passing in
sits
on the ground in the way
and out of a room, occasions
much needless trouble; for the unthinking person

who may have hurriedly stepped across the obstruc-
THE ART OF LIVING.

must
tion
in spite
of haste
step over a second time,
and
OH
instantly
return, to
unwind the
so
spell
otherwise the one stepped over will, ere long, shrivel
up and
perish.
You may
be tired, or
reflective, or
standing with the arms crossed
to
do
up
so is to tie
good fortune in your destiny.
all
Be
sure to
buy vinegar before the sun
sold afterwards
aware of
The
money taken by
should be rubbed
A
it
the
but
down,
if
not
it is
that time, as the bakals are
at
it
is
this necessary precaution.
first
amount
become musty
will
it
easy to procure
Is
perhaps in a
mood, nevertheless carefully abstain from
defiant
of
all
custom
a dealer in the
morning
over the face, to ensure a good
for the rest of the day.
child falls and cuts its head on a rough stone.
the
first
wound
must
That
first
care of the mother to wash and bind
find
is
an
after consideration.
up
She
the exact spot where the accident
occurred, and, turning her head away, pour on
it,
over her shoulder, a libation of wine or sugared

water,
then
round.
By
go
quickly
this wise
away without
measure
all
looking
bad consequences
and the hurt can be looked
will be avoided,
to at
leisure.
The
of
careful Eastern housewife enjoys the guidance
many
rules of
which others are deprived by ignor-
ance and want of
faith.
She
is
especially attentive
"
90
to the
phenomena that
wash of the household
affect the
bougatha, or great
linen, carefully taking out the
pieces of half- burnt
wood from beneath the copper
when
and placing them aside
all is finished,
out gradually.
is
If,
to die
from a fatal idea of economy, she
rash enough to extinguish them in water, the
house and family will infallibly decay from that

time.
A
is
fine display of cleanly
washed and snowy linen
a cheering sight after all the labour bestowed
but beware
the
of
false friend
treacherously admires
in,
beautifully
the
"How
it.
bougatha has succeeded! how spotless! how white
Can anything be more cruel
who, coming
Soon afterwards the
unfortunate washerwoman feels a sharp pain in her
She has been struck by the "
finger.
there
is
but one remedy
worn jacket
some
neighbour's dress
burn
it
to cut off
evil eye,"
some part
her well-
frajêd tatter of
in the candle,
and
of the
and apply
it
to
the aching finger.
Cooks have a responsibility connected with the

three-legged
iron trivet on which
wanted, they must be careful

standing,
When
but to place them with the
zontally, otherwise
family a
they set their
when no longer
not to leave them
saucepans over the charcoal stove
visit will
any
feet hori-
relation likely to
pay the
be prevented from coming.
a pair of scissors
is left
gaping on a table.
THE ART OF LIVING.

it
is
said that the
91
Archangel Michael's mouth
is
member
of
open, ready to take the soul of some one

the family.
There
is
a simple and easy method of overcoming
remedy
the malignity of the "evil eye"; the
is
valuable in proportion to the injury inflicted by the
unconscious glance.
Take three
them solemnly on a
pin,
cious
wave them about
in
If one of the cloves bursts, the effect is
air.
attained;
mence.
stick
cloves,
burn them a moment in
the flame of the candle and
the
fine
if
take another three
not,
and recom-
The bad influences must be indeed tena-
(or the spice
box unusually damp) that can
prevent the desired explosion of the clove, always

provided the
trial
be made with the needful patience
and with unwavering
A person
the
faith in its efficacy.
invited to two marriages taking place on
same day, must only accept one of the
tations.
invi-
To attend both weddings would bring
misfortune on the second couple.
Do
not be too eager to compliment a mother on
the birth of an infant, but remain at least half an
hour in the house before entering her room,
lest
rejoicing should turn to lamentation.
Such
number
nelves,
evident
and similar
superstitions,
is infinite, trivial
possess
as they
which the
may seem
certain interest,
derivation
of
some
from sources of the
in
them-
in
their
highe^t
92
antiquity, others in their connection with like beliefs
amongst the peasantry throughout Europe, every-
where modified and shaped by

but
all
local circumstances,
springing from the same dread of
and mysterious
influences, of
which the most potent
and the most universally feared

" evil eye."
unknown
is
the power of the
VIII.
BROUSSA.
Broussa, which
is,
after
Smyrna, the most impor-
tant city of Asia Minor, has been, from very early

times, celebrated for its mineral waters, and, subse-
quently, for
The
its
production of silk and silk fabrics.
city is beautifully situated
slopes of
on the northern
Mount Olympus, that rises 6,400 feet from

The highest peaks, clothed with snow
the plain.
during the greater part of the year, are clearly
visi-
ble at Constantinople, about seventy miles distant.
On
the bold spur of rock rising at the entrance to
the city,
may
the
site
of the ancient town
line
on the southern side towards the mountain,
be seen some remains of the citadel,

;
the walls, a double
strengthened by towers and a broad moat, are of
Greek construction, of the thirteenth century, but

some blocks of masonry both on the
of the plateau seem to show a
Of the
much
east
and west
earlier date.
ancient city of Prusa, founded about two
centuries before the Christian era, and, according to
some
historians, at the suggestion of Hannibal,
by
94
Prusias,
King
whom
with
of Blthynia,
the cele-
brated Carthagenian general had taken refuge, there
remains to-day scarcely any vestige repeated sieges,

;
fire,
and earthquake have done their work of ruin
effectually
they could not, however, destroy the
legendary interest in the surrounding country that

goes back to mythological times, for the noble mountain
summit that enters
into all the finest points of
view, rising from the opposite limit of the plain, and
now
called the
Mount
Katirli,
answers to Strabo's
description of the Arganthonios, where Hylas, the

friend of Hercules and one of the crew of the Argo,
was carried
Katirli,
off
by the Nereids.
the town,
At
the foot of
on the shore of the Gulf of
Ghemlek, stands on the
site
of Cius, founded
by
another of the Argonauts.
Towards the end of the

Bithynia became a
the
Roman
first
century of our era,
province, and in 103 a.d.
Emperor Trajan appointed
as governor of the
united provinces of Bithynia and Pontus, Pliny the
Younger, whose celebrated
letters to his
imperial
master prove his solicitude for the welfare of the

country under his care, and the untiring zeal with
which he promoted every useful public

"Writing from "
foot of
my
Olympus," he obtains
for the "
Prusenses
"
new bath on a site conquarter now called Hissar.

Pliny
the permission to build a

tained within the
enterprise.
apartment at Prusa, at the
95
BROUSSA.
much anxious thought
has
also on the subject of
the Christians, already very numerous in his pro-
He
vince of Bithynia.
cannot see the justice of the
accusations of their enemies, and his long letter to
Trajan on this topic
is
esteemed by the Church as
a strong testimony in favour of the oppressed com-
munity.
From
the tenth to the fifteenth century, Broussa
was several times besieged, taken, pillaged, and

abandoned
the city was attacked in vain by the
Latins in the eleventh century, and at length, in

1327, after a ten years* siege, opened
the Ottoman Turks,
its
under Osman and
gates to
his
son
In the beginning of the fifteenth century,
Orkhan.
Broussa was once more sacked and burnt by the

Tartars under Tamerlane, but again, after an interval
of civil war, arose from its ruins, and
Sultan
Mehemed
unhappy Bajazet, who endowed

its
it
was the
Tchelebi, son and successor of the

his native city with
most beautiful and interesting monuments.
For the Ottoman Turk, Broussa

city
is
almost a holy
the cradle of their empire, and the last rest-
ing place of their most celebrated men, of
hundred
more than
five
Olympus
sultans,
lie
whom
under the shadow of
vezirs, saints
and enthusiasts,
legislators, poets,
musicians and doctors, renowned
for their learning
and their
of the city are
piety.
The
older parts
crowded with picturesque buildings.
96
erected as pious, learned, or charitable institutions
now mostly fallen into decay
and many a legend
clings about these crumbling stones, adding a poetic
halo to the picturesque beauty of this most charm-
ing spot.
The majestic slopes and wooded gorges also of

Olympus were peopled with historical personages
;
wild enthusiasts, santons, abdals, dervishes, poets,
and philosophers, the successors in their
cells
and
hermitages of the Christian martyrs and recluses,
whose memory survives in the Turkish name

given to the mountain
Monks.
tain of the
Many
still
Keschich-Daghy, the Moun-
celebrated works on theology, law, and medi-
cine were written in the deep repose of those solemn

groves,
and thence issued strange
times of struggle and

below.
We
by Orkhan
crisis
fantastic beings in
in the troubled city
read of Abdal-Murad, who,
to the siege of Broussa,
digies of valour with a
summoned
performed pro-
wooden sword
of fabulous
dimensions, with which he destroyed monstrous ser-
pents that infested the country.

are seen high
His
cell
and tomb
up upon one of the boldest spurs of the
mountain.
There
is
the legend of a venerable dervish of Con-
stantinople,
who
finding himself unable to meditate
calmly in the turmoil of a great
city,
transported
himself each evening to the solitudes of the holy
BROUSSA.
97
mountain, never failing, however, to be found at his

teke before the early morning prayer.
Then again
there
is
Gheikli-Baba (the Father
with the Deer), issuing from his peaceful hermitage,

at the call of
Orkhan, mounted on a stag and wield-
ing a sword weighing a hundred and
The greater number
of the
old
fifty
pounds.
monuments of
the foundaand with the
Broussa are connected with this period

tion of the
persons
Ottoman Power
who
a half of
its
existence
may have some
fore,
illustrious
flourished during the first century

;
a glance backwards, there-
interest.
It will suffice to
the modest origin of the Ottoman

toral
and half-savage manner of
cessors of
and
dynast)'',
life
show
the pas-
of the prede-
Osman, and the rapidity with which he
founded and enlarged a kingdom by his valour, and

consolidated
life
it
by his wisdom.
In referring
to the
of Osman, I do not intend (to borrow the words
of the quaint old author Knolles),
faigned pedigree to set
him out
**
of
with a long and
Noah
his arke
but only so far as shall be pertinent unto our purpose."
Turkish tradition, indeed, goes back to the
time of Abraham, and claims Oghuz
Khan
founder of Turkish power and civilisation.
as the
Accord-
ing to this legend, he lived at Yassa, at that time

the capital of Turkestan, and
some of the
later inhabitants,
into Moldavia,
VOL.
II.
it
goes on to say that
Usbegs, penetrated
where they formed a settlement, and
98
gave to the capital of the new country the name of

their native city.
In the twelfth century we begin to read of the

Seljuk Sultans of
Roum, the
largest principality of
Asia Minor, having Iconium (now Koniah) as

Ala-eddin
capital.
country
I.
its
appears as a benefactor to his
notwithstanding his wars with Djenghiz
Khan, he found time
to establish
many
useful
and
charitable institutions in the various towns of his
small kingdom, and he solicited for them the
man
of an inscription from the
talis-
hand of the most
venerated of Oriental mystic poets and saints
Mew-
lana Djellaleddin of Boukhara, founder of the order

of
Mewlevi dervishes.
This Sultan of Iconium (who used the crescent as
an emblem before the time of the Ottoman dynasty)

gave shelter to a crowd of learned
men
flying from
the East before the ravages of Djenghiz Khan,
bringing with them to the extreme west of Asia

the literature, science, and arts of Turkestan and
Persia.
The same scourge was the remote cause

foundation, not long afterwards, of the
Empire,
for,
disturbed also in his distant
Mahau, on the
frontiers of Khorassan,
of the
Ottoman
home near
by the same
Djenghiz Khan, Soliman Shah, a descendant of
Oghuz and
chief of a
Turcoman
tribe,
wandered
westwards, " his people," says Knolles, " with their
99
BROUSSA.
wives and children, after the manner of the Tartar
nomads, their ancestors, following him in

tents
cloth,
and
carts,
poore
covered with a very coarse kinde of
being indeed nothing else but a- very rude
kinde of sturdie herdsmen."
This Soliman, at the head of the
clan Kai
little
forming part of the great tribe Kaisak
wandered
some time in the plains of Anatolia, but
for
at
length, unable to endure this exile from his country,
he decided,
at the death of
Djenghiz Khan, on
re-
turning whence he came, and was drowned whilst
attempting the passage of the Euphrates at Djaber.
His
tribe dispersed
Eastern homes
some pushed forward to their
some went into Syria and parts of
Asia Minor, where their descendants
may
be seen to
day following precisely the nomad, pastoral

manner of life of their ancestors their black tents
this
are even
now
often
met with about Smyrna and the
Dardanelles, in the plains of the Troad, and

the rugged slopes and valleys of
are
known
as
Mount
Ida.
among
They
Turcomans or Uruks (nomads).
Ertoghrul, one of the sons of Soliman Shah, with

four hundred families, his immediate adherents,
his
way slowly back once more towards
made
the north-
western coast, where he finally obtained a settlement
on the borders of Phrygia and Bithynia, at Suguet,

on the banks of the river Sakharia, and at the foot of
the western branch of the range of
Mount Olympus.
100
This concession was made to him in return
'for
warlike service rendered to the Sultan of Iconium.
and we read that
ing to enlarge his borders he, with

the world as
sity,
so far
'*
tents of
from seek-
patience, taking
came, and making a virtue of neces-
it
and contenting himself with
kindly towards
A.D. 1289.
by the
in peace, surrounded
Here he dwelt
his pastoral tribe,
all
men," and
little,
bare himself
peacefully, he died
so,
His tomb, in the neighbourhood of Suguet,
much visited by Mussulman pilgrims.

Othman or Osman, one of the three sons of
Ertoghrul, displayed a much more adventurous spirit.
is
He
was by no means inclined to " take the world as

sought a vaster
field of
action than the modest colony of herdsmen.
Long
it
came," his energetic
spirit
before the death of his father, being elected
mon
acclamation to the
he had commenced a
command
series of successful exploits in
the adjacent provinces of the
Byzantine Empire
by com-
of the small clan,
weak and
tottering
to repulse the inroads of the
Greeks on peaceful bordering
cities,
he began by
a battle, in which he vanquished a certain captain

of E'inegheul,
who was
flocks
and herds of
their
summer
in the habit of harassing the
his tribe
on their way between
pastures on the mountains and their
winter quarters on the banks
Having obtained
for
them
of
a peaceful
the
Sakharia.
enjoyment of
their rights, he turned his attention to another small
101
BROUSSA.
neighbouring
and put
there.
castle, surprised it
sword
to the
all
by night, burnt
it,
the Christians he found
This naturally roused the anger of the
neighbours, who, joining together, complained to the

captain of Kara-Hissar, that those
many
years before
**
Turks,
who
not
had been from pity received
poor herdsmen into the country, were
as
now beginning
to take violent possession of the ancient lands of the
Christians."
They besought him,
therefore, to join
with others " to ex pulse those unthankful, encroaching,
and merciless strangers out of their countries."
The unfortunate people
little
knew
that from this
very small beginning and encroachment the power

of
these same
poor
Turcoman herdsmen would
strengthen and increase with such amazing rapidity

that a century and a half later would see the descen-
dant of Osman on the throne of the Caesars, absolute

master of the Empire of the East.
The onward progress

checked.
Aided by
of
Osman was
not to be
his suzerain lord, the Sultan of
Iconium, he took possession of several strong
castles,
after which, having inspired his neighbours with a
wholesome fear of his prowess, he concluded that
was now wiser

them.
Osman
to enter into friendly alliance
it
with
proceeded, therefore, to set the affairs
of his little dominion in order, building mosques,
establishing independent courts of justice (the

at Kara-Hissar),
and opening markets
first
in the great
SKETCHES OF EASTERN LIFE AXD SCENEEY.
102
towns, to n-hich he attracted trade and supplies
by
the equity and moderation with which he treated

ah'ke both
which
Mussulman and
was the
Nicea
fell
first
Christian.
city
of
great importance
before the resolute sword of Osman.
treasures found
The
there he distributed amongst his
receiving for himself, from his suzerain,
warriors,
Ala-eddin IL, every possible mark of approval and
honour
but the modesty of
from appropriating the
Osman prevented him
full rights
of a sovereign
(which some of these honours conferred) until after

the
death of Ala-eddin, the last of the Seldjuk
Sultans of
Koum.
He
then for the
first
the year 1300), caused prayers to be
name
in the
time (about
made
in his
mosque of Kara-Hissar, and money
be coined with his symbol. This event
is
to
considered
by many authorities as the act of foundation of the

Ottoman Empire, although some prefer to date it
from the nomination of Osman, some years earlier,
Bey or Commander of Provinces,

new dignity was proclaimed with banner,
to the dignity of
when
kettle^
this
and drum, in the towns of Kutayia, Balik-
hissar, Aidin, Sivas, Sinope,
Osman
and Kastamouni.
continued to enlarge his borders, extend-
ing them even as far as the castles of Anatoly and

the shores of the Black Sea, sometimes, however,
hindered by the gout
sometimes pausing
to
busy
himself zealously about his subjects* welfare, estab-
103
BROUSSA.
lishing such a quiet and wise
flocked to
him
to live
government that people
under his rule
then, bursting
out again into fresh conquests, until, in his old age,

the
him
pursuit of a Prince of Bithynia led
to
Broussa.
Being unable
to take the city
by
assault,
Osman
ordered two large forts to be built on the principal
approaches to
it
(one of these was at Eski Kaplidja,
now
the other on the spot

Consulate), and
after
occupied by the Italian

resistance
of
Broussa was reduced by famine to open
Mohammedan
the
Osman,
of
ten years,
its
gates to
conquerors led by Orkhan, a son
in the year
1327
but the aged chieftain
was then on his death-bed. By his own wish his
re-
mains were conveyed to Broussa and buried under

the
dome
of
the
principal
cathedral, afterwards called
building there
the
Daoul Monastir.
The name of Osman Ghazi
is
venerated by
all
Ottomans as a type of chivalrous heroism,
true
justice,
and moderation.
It is observed of his extra-
ordinary career, that his great moral power was lo

less
remarkable than his rapid and unvarying mili-
tary success
for the
beauty of his character was so
universally acknowledged, that although only possessing a tenth part of the territory of
some neigh-
bouring princes, he held the highest place amongst

them.
His charity was unbounded
he never omit-
ted to succour the orphans and widows amongst his
104
subjects,
and in his palace tables were spread for the
whom
poor,
he often assisted to
them himself with the
The founder
relieve,
serving
greatest kindness.
Ottoman dynasty bequeathed
of the
to his successors a great
name and a
sovereignty ex-
tending over the greater part of Asia Minor, with
an army which, composed originally of only four
hundred and sixteen horsemen, had increased
number
perty he
of six thousand warriors.

left
wonderfully
little.
to the
Of personal pro-
It is curious to read
the simple catalogue of his possessions
"
He
left
neither gold nor silver, only a spoon, a salt-cellar, an
embroidered caftan, and a new turban

red muslin, a stable full of
in
some yoke of oxen
some
flags
excellent horses,
for the labours of the field,
and
choice flocks of sheep," the ancestors of the imperial

flocks
which feed
at this present time in the rich
pastures at the foot of
Mount Olympus.
The name of Orkhan
is
more intimately connected
with Broussa than that of his father, as he conducted the ten years' siege
it
was at Bounar Bashi
that he planted his victorious banner.
Orkhan
founded numerous
edifices
mosques and
public
throughout the kingdom, and revived the ancient
custom of ornamenting these buildings with poetical

inscriptions.
the
first
Empire
It
was Orkhan
also
who
established
Medresseh, or College, in the Ottoman
he founded
at
Nicea the
first
imaret, or
105
BROUSSA.
soup-kitchen, for the poor.
In every
district there
known by the
Orkhanlar, which were established by him
exist,
even
name
of
to the present day, villages
for the benefit of refugees.
Orkhan died
find
it
at the age of seventy-five,
and we
recorded that his long reign of thirty-five
by barbarity
years was unsullied
that his wise measures
gained for him the
title
and
or violence, and
political
institutions
Numa
of the Otto-
of the
mans.
The
fell at
Mourad
I.
in the
mosque founded by him
of the fine
he
Osman were
four immediate successors of
interred at Broussa
at
also
mausoleum
Tchekirghe
Kossova, and his remains were brought
back to his native place and
capital.
Bajazet (Yil-
derim), the son of Mourad, as celebrated for his
magnificence and prodigality as for his heroic but

disastrous struggle with Tamerlane (Timour Lenk,
or the lame Timour), died a prisoner of the victorious

Tartar,
and
his body, brought back
by
his son Musa,
was buried in the beautiful but half-ruined turbe

that bears his name.
Mohammed
I.,
surnamed Tchelebi, on account of
his love of the arts of peace, lies in the
attached to the most beautiful of the
mausoleum
monuments
of
Broussa, the celebrated Yeshil Djami.
Mourad
II.,
father of
Mehemmed
Ghazi, the con-
queror of Constantinople, was the last whose resting-
106
place
is
found in
this,
the cradle of his empire and
of his dynasty.
Amongst the illustrious persons huried at Broussa,

and who flourished during the first period of the
Ottoman power, we must remark Alla-eddin, the
eldest son of
Osman.
sion to his brother
He
yielded his right of succes-
Orkhan, but none the
less
was
he actively employed in the organisation of the
He
infant State.
other matters
many
regulated the coinage, and
of importance,
together with
and,
Orkhan, realised the project of a standing army, the
most notable element of which was the troop composed of young Christian captives
the great dervish
Hadji Bektasch bestowing his benediction on them,
named
this
troops).
military body
They
known
are
Yeni Shery
to us
(the
new
by the familiar name
of Janissaries.
The memory
of Soliman, a son of
in great veneration
first to
Orkhan,
by the Osmanlis.
establish a footing in Europe,
is
He was
held
the
by the conquest
of some strongholds in the neighbourhood of Sestos.
His tomb
is
at Boulair, not far
from the town of
Gallipoli.
Broussa contains the tombs of some princesses

noted in history for the munificence with which they
enriched the city and the province with important
monuments and
Khatoun, the
charitable institutions.
first
Niloufer
wife of Sultan Orkhan, deserves
107
BROUSSA.
especial mention as the foundress of one
eleven of these beneficent works
It
one of the
finest
was in the
mosques
in the
them are
to this prin-
castle of that city that Niloufer

life
retirement, and she was there visited
who
brated traveller, Ibn Batoutah,

**
of
Ottoman Empire.
toun passed the latter years of her
hundred and
many
town of Nicea owes
in Broussa, but the

cess
Kha-
in peaceful
by the
cele-
speaks of her as
pious and excellent princess."
Broussa in the present time

renovated.
is
a city restored,
Those only who knew
it
and
in its former
desolate
condition can fully appreciate all that
owes
the
to
Ahmet Vefyk
Pasha.
it
governor of the province,
energetic
By
the terrible earthquake of
1855, Broussa was shaken to
its
foundations: the
and minarets half thrown down, large
mosques
spinning factories destroyed, even the course of the
mineral springs disturbed
and ruined.
At
that time,
the city was impoverished
no better means of con-
veyance existed than miserable talikas on an almost

impassable track, and one hotel sufficed for the small
number
of adventurous travellers.
to-day has arisen from
its ruins.
The Broussa of
Gradually, the fine
remains of monuments that once adorned this cradle

of the empire have been repaired with the utmost
taste
and
skill,
while the welfare of the modern city
has been studied with equal solicitude.

carriage road from
Mondania
is
good
continued through
108
the entire length, of Broussa

in constant use
excellent carriages are
several hotels have been opened in
quarters, to suit the convenience of the
different
the invalid,
tourist,
the
or
commercial
traveller.
But the most important work has been the drying

up
of the marshes
fields,
by the suppression
of the rice-
that caused the fever and ague from which
the inhabitants formerly suffered severely.

less valuable
to the
introduction of the rose culture.

of the refugees of the last
most celebrated
climate and
The greater number
war are from the
for the rose
soil
Scarcely
country has been the recent
perfumes
districts
they find the
around Broussa in every respect
suitable to this sort of cultivation,
and
in conse-
quence several thousand rose-trees have been planted

within
the
past
two years.
Seven
of
colonies
refugees have been located on every available open
ground
its
each has
school.
which by
the
silk,
its little
mosque,
By the same wise care

its
its
fountain,
and
a supply of water,
peculiar quality enhances the value of
has been brought from a source high up on
the mountain to the spinning factories in the western
suburb of the
city.
The market
is
provisioned than formerly, and the

interior,
when completed,
now much better

new road to the
will still further develop
the resources of those fertile but hitherto almost

inaccessible regions.
It
is
impossible to mention
all
the improvements due to the indefatigable exertions
109
BROUSSA.
of
Ahmet Vefyk
note with
Pasha, but
gratitude the
we must
fact
not forget to
the Christian
that
schools and orphanage at Broussa have always been

steadily protected
all
those
and encouraged by him, and that
who need
it,
the
widow and orphan, without
distinction of creed or race, never fail to
prompt and certain
help.
We
may
also
add that
vigilant governor, the terror of brigands

factors,
meet with
this
and male-
has endowed this beautiful spot with a degree
of peace
and safety quite unknown
in
the
great
metropolis of the empire.
Broussa contains one hundred and
five
mosques,
of which twenty-five are in ruins.
There are fifty-four spinning
factories, that
employ
from two thousand to three thousand women and

girls.
The
beautiful Broussa silks
much esteemed
for their delicacy
woven, as are also the towel
stilffs,
and gauzes
in private houses
on hand-looms of the most primitive kind.

these
may
so
and strength, are
Many of
be seen at work in the neighbourhood of
the bazaars, behind the great
mosque Olou Djami.
IX.
THE BATHS OF BROUSSA.

NO.
I.
Nicomedia. The Open Marmora. Dislocated Perspective.

Talika." Winding Roads and Leafy Lanes.
Collapse. The
The Durbend. Luxuriant Vegetation. Beautiful View
from the Bridge." Tchekirghe. "The Baths." Hotel du
Mont Olympe." Giovanni. A String of Camels. Fine
View from the Hotel. Exploring Adventures. The Jews'
Quarter. The Ruined " Fabrica." In the Bazaars.
Kutaya Pottery. Sketching under
Cream Ices.
The Heavenly Valley. ^View from the Mills.
Contrasting Beauties of Broussa and the Bosphorus. Getting on

Board. Travellers and their Bags. The Harem of the Boat.
Our Small Party. The Princes' Islands. The Gulf of
'
'
'
'
Difficulties.
Almost
at the
very gates of Constantinople, within
an easy summer-day's journey of that much-visited

capital, lies a region of sylvan beauty, so exquisitely
endowed with
all
the charms of the most perfect
combination of mountain, wood, and water (which

people frequently travel so far to seek and to enjoy),
that one
is
struck with wonder at the general igno-
rance concerning this sweet spot
north coast of Asia Minor

that,
until
with the contradiction
Broussa, on the
it
is
inherent
remembered
in
human
Ill
nature, blessings easily attained are lightly esteemed,
and that a place which may be

rarely visited at
visited
that the people of this country care
where elaborate
treat
and incessant
day
any day
is
It is not, perhaps, astonishing
all.
little for
a re-
formal promenade?,
toilettes,
visiting cannot be the order of the
that they prefer to seek out the gay, gambling
mineral baths of Western Europe
ing waters which nature here

unnoticed; but
is
it
leaving the heal-
offers to
them almost
greatly to be regretted that
intelligent tourists should so often leave Constanti-
nople without seeing this neighbouring city, the

cradle of the
attractions
Ottoman Empire,
rich in those rural
which are most wanting in the far-famed
The charms
actual capital of the East.
do not, however,
claims of the other
by comparison with the
suffer
:
of the one
they are widely different.
The
shores of the Bosphorus are bright, sparkling, and
graceful
the clear blue water reflecting the fairy-
like palaces
and "
yalis "
which overhang its depths,
the blooming and highly cultivated gardens revealed
through every opening, the

glancing caiques, have
own
all
softly swelling hills, the
a brilliant beauty of their
but people are apt to feel disappointed at the
low proportions of the background to this picture,

and, above
foliage.
all,
at the
general want of wood and
Broussa, spread out at the foot of
Mount
Olympus, and nestling among the hanging woods of
112
lower slopes, can boast of the grandeur and sub-
its
limity of tbe wildest forests and mountain scenery,
with such a luxuriance of vegetation, such bowery
nooks and grassy dells, such tumbling rushing waters,

such gushing fountains, such giant trees and wonderful creepers draping the sides of the dark gorges
of the mountain, as I have never seen surpassed.
Broussa also
is
more Oriental
infinitely
in cha-
Here the grand type
racter than Constantinople.
of the genuine Asiatic Turk, comparatively so rare
on the European shore,
is
constantly
met with
lofty swelling turban flourishes, while the
fez is the exception
the
modern
wild beings from the interior
of Asia conduct long strings of camels laden with

the raw produce of those remote districts, and the
very plants by the wayside indicate what I have
heard called a semi-tropical region.
May
Sth.
Off" at last
The steamer
for
Broussa
being advertised to start at eight in the morning,
my
husband and myself had hurried considerably on
our road to the bridge, and threading our

the narrow lane which
in this quarter,
is
way along
the principal thoroughfare
we avoided
as best
we
could the
heavily-laden animals and the dangerous contact of

the flour sacks, and of huge blocks of firewood bound
to the sides of staggering horses,
vade this particular street
by the
little
who
seem, to per-
then, turning the corner
Turkish confectioner's (where they make
113
we wound
such excellent rahatlokoum),
ourselves
through the crowd of Circassians (most of them

slave-dealers)
hanging about the neighbourhood of
theTophaneh market-place, and
highway
to that part of
name
Box
of
Street.
side are occupied
which they
boxes.
tive to
by the unpoetical
Here the open shops on each
by the workers
use chiefly
for
in cypress wood,
rough- looking square
These are considered as an
infallible preven-
moth, and the pungent aromatic smell of the
wood on entering
this
neighbourhood
to be at times quite sickening
not perceive
We
it.
so strong as
but to-day we did
which usually
thence, was standing some

caique,
is
hastened on to the bridge to
find that the Broussa boat,
so along the bustling
called
it
way
starts
from
out in the harbour.
however, soon took us alongside, and,
clambering up the narrow ladder of the steamer (an

Austrian, and the best of the two boats on the line),
we have struggled through all the inevitable bustle

and confusion of the moment of departure towards
There are no
the quarter-deck.
my
as yet, but
any kind
husband, aided by our Greek man-
servant, has
made the
my
and they have
comfort,
seats of
best possible arrangement for
has ceased to ring, and I
left
am
in haste, as the bell
to start
on
my journey
alone.
Now
the anchor
and wakes
VOL.
II.
to life
is
up.
The machine
with a shudder
I
palpitates
the great wheels
114
begin slowly to revolve, and yet there are loiterers

still
clinging to the lowered steps of the companion-
The boatmen scream ^nd
ladder.
gesticulate in their
frantic efforts to regain possession of their passengers
returning to land.
its
The heavy Maltese boat pushes
clumsy form amongst the
frail caiques, like a
porpoise amid a flock of sea-gulls, scattering
on every
The water tumbles,
side.
leaps, dances, or
There are
laps around the sides of the steamer.
movement and
The
agitation all around.
travellers begin to settle themselves
Amongst them
property.
who
perceive
In
nothing of the confusion around them.
moving picture they
and their
there are some, perhaps,
leaning over the side of the vessel,
all
the
see but one small black spot,
dancing on the waves and

distance.
them
They watch
it
fast
disappearing in the
with tearful gaze
with the
heart rather than the eye they see the waving signal
of farewell
and the sad unspoken adieu
blessing and a sigh

passes out of sight.
But there
no room
for
at once a
it
are few of these sad-
dened travellers on board the Broussa

is
follows that tiny speck until
boat.
There
sentiment, for the quarter-deck
is
crowded with most practical-looking heaps of boxes
and bundles,
osier baskets,
covered with a stout,
reddish-brown leather, or even with the untanned

cow's-hide,
and travelling-bags of every possible
description,
from the well-appointed bag in black

leather, strapped, buckled,
the experienced tourist,
115
and locked, belonging
down
to
to the native sack, in
coarse striped cloth of goats' or camels' hair, which
by
displays
nature of
its
its
gaping mouth the heterogeneous
contents, such as a loaf of black bread,
a paper of tobacco, some cheese, a candle, a pipestem, a water-melon, a bunch of raw onions,
and
a few other light and elegant necessaries for the
Lying around,
voyage.
also, are several birdcages,
a dog in a basket, with
garden of shrubs in
its
puppies, a miniature
cases, a
good many corpulent
umbrellas, and plenty of ropes and cords everywhere.
The
tresses
women
native
are spreading out their mat-
on the flooring of the deck
jars, pipes,
children, water-
and provisions being placed about them
An
conveniently.
Oriental family
is
soon comfort-
ably installed.
I
am
in the
distinction
men
tion.
is
harem
division of the boat, but the
not strictly kept up, as some gentle-
are seated near the entrance without opposi-
My
nearest neighbour on the right hand,
shares with
me
who
the advantage of leaning against the
large heap of bedding covered with a crimson rug,

is
a Nubian, dressed in the costume of Egypt, with
which every one
is
now
calico cloak covering the
familiar
head and
a large white
figure,
long, thick calico veil fulling straight
and the
from below
the eyes, supported by a stiffened, narrow stripe
SKETCHES OF EASTERN LIFE AND SCENEHY.
116
down the middle
of
tlie
Her
forehead.
dress
is
scrupulously clean, and her only discernible feature,
the dark, soft eyes, look pleasant and good humoured
but she
sits
very
silent, for I
think she hardly under-
stands the Turkish spoken around her
tongue
is
A poor woman
the Arabic.
little,
her familiar
crouched on
In the intervals of conversation
the deck close by.
she begs a
is
evidently just to keep her hand in,
for she soon turns to another subject, or caresses her

child, a very pretty
but sadly dirty
from whose dangerous
little
Ottoman,
much as
women and
vicinity I shrink as
circumstances will permit.
Several other
children are grouped about, and have already com-
posed themselves to sleep on the mattresses spread
There
on the boards.
is
an independent youth
also,
who takes
mamma's repeated
belonging to a party established near,

intense pleasure in answering his
calls
with precipitate haste, in order to brush aggres-
sively past
me
but they are
on the whole, and the
lad's
all
quiet and friendly
manoeuvres are infinitely
amusing.
Another party of Mussulman women has just
emerged from the
cabin.
attention, for three of
Their appearance excites
them are young, and
fore supposed to be good-looking.

for
them, and in a
composed
I
am
as
still
moment they
there-
Stools are placed
are as thoroughly
though they had been here for years.

alone, the captain of the steamer
having

consented to call for
my
friends off
and now, as the vessel begins
117
Moda Bournou
to deviate
ing where we can be going. It

explanation, as the distance
are
now nearing
we
stop
needless to attempt
is
very short
in fact,
we
the point, and there are the caiques
shooting from the

hate
is
from the
me wonder-
direct course, I hear all the people around
little
I see turbaned
stone scala.
they dart rapidly alongside, and I
discover that the large party I had expected to join
has melted to four
with a severe
his
Aunt Sally, Uncle Ben, Colonel
and Fanny.
arm
fall,
Poor Uncle Ben has
spraining
with some
He
difficulty.
is
met
ankle and dislocating
liis
up
so that he is helped
lately
into the steamer
going to Broussa to
complete his cure by the use of the sulphur baths.
We
are altogether a little party of
five,
besides
Uncle Ben's Armenian servant Joseph. Many regrets

exchanged as we meet, but yet
we make up our minds to enjoy our trip thoroughly,
and I think we may fairly expect " good times.'* I
for the absentees are
know
that
Aunt
Sally
is
a delightful travelling com-
panion, and our two gentlemen are both proverbial

for their
good temper, a special blessing on a journey.
Poor Uncle Ben, patient as a lamb under his misfortune, never dims our spirits
by complaint, but takes
things as they come, and
sits
in a state of quiet
enjovment of the passing scenery; while Colonel
bright, cheerful,
and
active,
an indefatigable
118
and clever
sketclier, a universal referee, full of in-
formation and anecdote, ever on the alert to perform
some act of kindness and

those around him,
Now we
as
is
the
start again
we begin
promote the pleasure of
and soul of our party.
they put on the steam, and
to enter the
rain-clouds roll
to
life
open Marmora the heavy
away, the water becomes azure and
I see the great blue
transparent.
palamede
fish,
in
shape resembling mackerel, but as large as salmon,
running races with the steamer
the porpoises are
rolling about, the people are all chatting cheerily
deck, savoury odours
and sounds of preparation
on
arise
from the cabin, the steward has brought up the campstools
am
of bedding
faithful to
and we
my
all feel
travelling
bag and heap
ourselves thoroughly in
- kief."
"We are passing the Princes Islands on our

Prinkipo, the most distant of the group
gone, bare and uninteresting
jagged
cliffs
We pass
guish the buildings on Plate,
beautiful
still
the
rich ochre-
sufficiently close to distin-
now known amongst
the English as Bulwer's Island

cluster,
and
left
then Anti-
and nearer
of Proti, of flaming red
coloured earth.
and, last of the
the bold wild granite peak of
Oxeia towers from the water, desolate, rarely visited
by man, the home of cormorants and

are circling
now
in
hundreds round
sea-gulls,
who
its crest.
We have been called to luncheon in the cabin, but
119
We
returned on deck as soon as possible.
turn our
attention to the long line of noble mountains border-
ing the Gulf of Nicomedia, which
are, apparently,
passing before us in a slowly moving panorama.
These majestic and beautifully formed heights, which

serve as a
dreamy background
views from
to all the
Constantinople southwards, lose nothing of their
grandeur on a nearer approach.

spots of soft green
But
for the rare
which came into view, a few
goats,
a tiny wreath of curling smoke, a desolate tchiftlik

or two, one might conclude that the whole of this
vast tract of neglected land
nature.
There
to a gorge
is
is
abandoned
utterly
to
a scattered hamlet at the entrance
which might be glorious
if
the swelling
now it is all deso"

Soon we are rounding Armout Bournou"
lation.
(Pear-tree Point), named from a solitary pear-tree
uplands were clothed with trees
on
its
summit, and then the scenery appears more
smiling and attractive the aspect changes

;
as
it
boul
we enter,
were, another region, not discernible from Stam-
we are
passing before the northern slope of
the mountains, their sides become cultivated, then

fertile
and luxuriant
but we forget to notice this
feature of the landscape

site
any longer.
On
the oppo-
shore of the Gulf of Mondania, the summit of
Olympus, in
all
the solemn majesty of
its
snowy
coronal of peaks, towers before us to the sky.

observe, although
we
are yet
many
miles distant,
120
that the range of lower mountains, rising
imme-
diately behind Mondania, is rich to luxuriance, abun-
dantly clothed with wood, in which the soft tint of

olive groves is distinctly visible,
broken by the sharp

the wind
dark point of an occasional cypress and

;
has freshened considerably, as we are passing the
roughest part of the gulf, and I begin to perceive

that the scenery
fancied
it.
is
not nearly so interesting as I had
I find that I prefer to gaze on the straight
boards of the deck; they are not picturesque, but
they at least seem steady, while
all
other lines of
perspective have become frightfully dislocated.
and houses on the
trees
coast,
with the masts and cordage of the steamer, are
ing about in the wildest manner. Olympus,
be
all
very well, but I
am
The
viewed in connection
sadly afraid
it
roll-
too, ma}^
bores me.
I feel an utter conviction that " there's nothing new,
nothing true, and

I think
it
doesn't signify,"
and I think
I would rather not think about
it,
or about
anything whatever any more.

I
am
sitting at length in a talika, in a
narrow
village street, under the glaring reflection of a long
white wall.
We
have landed at the wooden scala
of Mondania (the steamer continuing her course to
Ghemlik, at the head of the gulf j
we have passed
through the large shed which serves as custom-house,
and
after
some trouble have succeeded
three talikas and two pack-horses, but
in obtaining
we
are not oif

at once
121
by any means. Uncle Ben has been heaved,
poked, pushed, and pulled with difficulty into his
when Aunt
vehicle, but
Sally endeavoured to follow
the floor gave way, and she stepped through quietly
on
ground
to the
for the
The
as she said, laughing,
"If
it
weren't
honour of the thing one might as well walk."
driver
merry, good-humoured ragamuffin,
with twinkling blue eyes, a mouth in a perpetual

grin,
and about sixteen years old
took
rence as quite a matter of course
the occur-
he got a large
stone and knocked the boards in again
thought we should
start,
but no, there
then we
a certain
is
amount
of shouting to be got through before the
baggage
is
and then
it
readjusted,
settled
on the packs.
One heap is formed,
tumbles to pieces again
while
lumbering along
road, so horses, packs,
property begins
all
the building
over again.
mind a French proverb,

sait attendre
is
the high
and baggage are quickly hud-
make room, and
dled aside to
It is
good
up
is
settled at length,
mometer would have marked 100
am
at the very least.
Uncle Ben's carriage leads the procession,
lies at
first
and
sure a ther-
and myself are in the second, and Colonel
Our way
of our
to bear in
" Tout vient a point, a qui
" the business
leave this burning spot, where I
the third.
being
they must pass through the thick
of the confusion, for this narrow passage
we
it is
some heavily-laden bullock arabas come
F
in
along the shore,
]22
where the cool breeze comes most refreshingly across

the crested waves, and I return to the conviction
that
Olympus
is
really very beautiful after
all,
crown-
ing the curve of the lovely bay with the snowy
summit which we
that half
way
shall soon lose sight of, for I
know
across the plain the topmost point dis-
appears behind the peaks which constitute the second

region of the mountain
gaze at the beautiful
so I
picture to the utmost, with great regret that I should
have been unable to make even a slight sketch. The

colour of the sea on our left hand
lazuli,
an intense lapis
is
while on our right rises a high
hill
covered
with rich vineyards, mulberry groves, and olive

gardens.
the
Soon we turn
sea-shore, plunge
at a sharp angle,
into
and leaving
this verdure,
winding
through a leafy lane, reminding us of Devonshire,

till
we
are brought back to the East
a party of Turkish
women,
in
by glimpses
yashmak and
of
feradje,
riding astride, taking a short cut through the fields
and by the wayside fountains, where children are

waiting with cups of pure fresh water, and with
little
bunches of wild flowers, which they throw into the

carriages, of course in expectation of backshish.
Somewhere amongst the vines and
olive groves, to
the right of the road, and at a short distance behind
Mondania, we are told that ruins of the ancient
town of Apamea may
still
be discerned, but the
luxuriant foliage around us, the
tall
Indian corn, the

waving
vines,
123
and leafy mulberry trees prevented our
seeing anything of
them from the
carriage.
We go very merrily on the air is full of song

which the nightingale takes a distinguished
and fragrant with the breath of the wild
also, perhaps,
(in
part),
flowers,
and
with the blossom of some early vines,
than which I know no sweeter scent
we
not shake us more than
the talikas do
expected, and
bottom of Uncle Ben's conveyance
if
the
occasionally falls
through, there are plenty of stones at hand, and his
merry young driver considers

have to
settle it
again in
a capital joke to
it
This youth has a
its place.
peculiar fashion of driving, for though
we
are going
along at a good pace, he rarely looks at his two
skinny
little ponies,
but
persistently with his
sits
back to them, turning round to laugh and jeer at the

driver of our carriage, which
It is
now directly
is
behind.
wonderful that we meet with no catastrophe.
have inward un confessed tremors
at
many
points of
the road, but nothing worse has happened than dislocation to our parcels,
rest for a
and we are
all
drawn up
station of rural police
on the summit of the pass,
about two hours distant from Mondania.

bring us
to
few moments at the Durbend, the small
little
cups of
coffee,
which are passed
They
to us
quite handily through a large hole in the window,
and while we are sipping

travellers gallops
up and
it
a party of Turkish
stops.
It is the Pasha's
124
harem, our fellow-travellers on the steamer, and

there is the young hanum herself, mounted on a
handsome grey horse and on a European saddle.
This
a most unusual sight, and confirms
is
pression that she
makes her horse

little
is
my
not of Mussulman origin.
fret
and curvet
im-
She
for awhile at a
distance on the soft turf, then goes off at a
graceful canter
down
the road in front.
We resume
our jolting progress, and begin to descend the other

slope of the
mountain towards the great plain of
Broussa, which spreads out before us rich in
wood
and water and groves and park-like clumps of
trees.
"We are
all in a
state of
exclamation and delight
at the sight of this luxuriant foliage, these leafy

trees with their lower branches
so
sweeping the ground,
very refreshing to our English eyes, wearied with
the barren burnt-up hills in the neighbourhood of

the capital.
We
have just reached a second very old stone
bridge, and paused to
enjoy the distant view of
Broussa nestling at the foot of the purple mountain,

partly bathed in its shadow, partly touched with
golden and ruby light, flashing from dome and

minaret, from bath and kiosk, then softening to a
rosy haze as
it
reaches the plain, and melting away
in the soft vapours that cling about the distant

tain ridges.
moun-
I can faintly trace the castle heights
overhanging the clustering buildings of the
city,
and
125
the minarets of the Olou Djami catching a sparkle

of brightness from out the solemn shadow of the
mountain
deep in this shadow a pale bluish tinge,
winding and disappearing into
its
depths, reveals
the opening of Gueuk-dereh (the Heavenly Valley).
Beyond the shadow,
from the clustering dwell-
far
ings, the sun's rays linger caressingly
and sadly on
the desolate mosque and tomb of the unhappy Bajazet,
and farther
flashes
still
towards the north a spark of
fire
from the gilded crescent on the dome of Emir
Sultan Djamissy.
long been
The snowy
lost to us,
crest of
Olympus has
but some patches of dazzling
white linger about the highest visible peaks, and as
we
advance, and the distant city sinks into grey
shadow, these peaks
still
glow and sparkle
in all the
glorious effulgence of an Eastern sunset.
The bridge near which we have

built
by Niloufar, the
Orkhan, whose name

river
is
beautiful
is
Greek
the one
wife
of
given to this day to the
which passes beneath
Missikeny, and spreads
halted
it
from out the gorge of
its silver
windings across the
landscape.
We continue our way, and soon, on the
right hand,
rising considerably above the level of the plain,
we
can distinguish the village of Tchekirgh^ (the Grasshopper), the

its
first
immense khan
of the line of mineral baths, with

for the
accommodation of
Our plans have been changed, and
patients.
instead of pro-
126
ceeding to the inferior hotel at this village,
it
has
been agreed that we are to go to Loschi's, in the
Muradyieh suburb of Broussa, where rooms had

been previously engaged
the journey, turn
off
leading upwards, and

figure
who had kept near
party,
hanum and her
but the
us for the most part of
taking a lane
to the right,
we
lose sight of her graceful
and flowing draperies under a leafy canopy of
hanging boughs.
We
pass the baths of Eski-Kaplidja, Kukutlu,
We
Yeni-Kaplidja, and others of smaller pretension.
know
we
them now,
that
note of
roadside,
shall see
them again,
so
we take small
or of the marble fountains
by the
framed in the natural setting of leaves and
wild flowers.
street of the
Avoiding the picturesque but ill-paved

Muradyieh, and passing smoothly
for a
short while under the arching boughs of walnut, elm,
and beech
trees,
high above
us,
we turn
and
to the right,
see perched
on the edge of a grey line of jagged
rock, our place of rest, a modest-looking rose-coloured
house, bearing on the signboard, " Hotel
Olympe, tenu par Joseph

very tired
and weary, and
Loschi.'*
as
we
of this unpretending " locanda,"
We
du Mont
reach
it
alight at the door
we
are welcomed
by the present mistress of the house. Marietta, and

by our old friend the waiter, Giovanni
We
Gillardi.
were soon installed in some of the best rooms
everything seems so familiar to
me from my happy

here four years ago
visit
then
all is quite
127
the same as
the same scanty but clean furniture, the same
simplicity about the arrangements, the
with
same people,
ust a touch of those four years about
Marietta
is
formerly
more buxom and more
trifle
them
florid
for
and Giovanni, the head- waiter, manager,
purveyor, and factotum of the establishment,

patient,
than
civil,
and active as ever, has a plainer mixture of
grey in his dark hair as he stands there in the sala

in his best black satin waistcoat, a flaring candle in
his right hand, his feet in the first position, bowing,
" Mesdames, la soupe est sur la table," for dinner
and gongs are several steps in advance of the
bells
Arcadian simplicity of the Hotel Loschi.

Besides the table, some straw chairs and a chintz
divan compose
the
all
the furniture of the dining-hall on
but the table-d*h6te dinner is excellent,

himself was a noted " artiste " in the
first floor,
for Loschi
culinary department,
and
his
traditions
remain,
although he has quitted the house.
May
softly
9th.
away
brisk tinkling of
in the distance,
I hastened to the
many
awoke me
bells,
this
window to see a long string

down the winding road
camels slowly progressing

front of the hotel.
dying
morning
of
in
There may have been about forty
of these ungainly but picturesque animals, with their
heaving walk, their awkward
feet,
humps, red
and uncouth, wild-looking cameleers.
tassels,
They were
128
bringing sacks of corn to be ground at tbe mill,
which stands quite near us on the right hand.
Each camel,
the building,
it
came up
little
off,
the road across the
rest,
relieved of their
and disappeared
off,
little rustic
music
plain, the
direction of the
then
down once
ranged in a row, to
number having been
burdens, they rose, slowly filed
down
gateway of
be unloaded,
to
for a successor, knelt
farther
until a certain
to the great
down
knelt
make room
rising to
more a
as
bridge, in the
of their bells
mingling with the song of hundreds of nightingales,

long after the drooping branches had hidden them
from our
sight.
once more
was glad
to see a string of camels
they give such a thoroughly Oriental
character to a place.
On my
stantinople, one used often to
first
arrival in
Con-
meet the huge animals
laden with charcoal from the forest of Belgrade,
heaving their ungainly forms along the high street

of
Pera, to the terror of the horses and, I must
confess, the great inconvenience
sengers; but they

thence,
and
are,
of the
foot
pas-
have almost disappeared from

even now,
scarce in Stamboul
their presence here at Broussa is quite in
with this thoroughly Asiatic
"What a lovely view
harmony
locality.
of the Castle hill
right-hand window of our room

the great French flour-mill
is
square and gaunt-looking,
still
from the
In the foreground,
the prominent object,
bearing traces of the
;;
129
battering which
it
hurled against
from the mountain-side during the
it
received by the maases of rock
great earthquake of 1855.
the building
we can
On
numerous torrents
turned by one of the
wheel,
the farther side of
see part of the gigantic black
which rush impetuously from the gorges of Olympus
and beyond
this mill the road,
mosque and turbe, disappears
winding by a
shadow
in the grey
of a small Turkish cemetery, and comes to view
again in the
warm
figures dotting
it
sunshine of the hillside, bright
with cloak, and caftan, and feradje
of every possible tint.
school of small children
straggling along under the guidance of two

in grey
and green caftans and snowy turbans
a party of mounted zebeks, gorgeous as
then quiet traders and loitering,
listless
is
moUahs
;
next
macaws
women,
trail-
ing their canary -coloured slippers along the dust.
The road branches
off after leaving the
suburb of
the Muradyieh, the main thoroughfare entering the
town under the

a
castle heights,
which
rise abruptl}-,
confusion of grey rock and profuse vegetation
half
way
up, a long-deserted silk factory, propped
by powerful beams,
of the earthquake.
see
is
another evidence of the force
Near
this tottering building
wo
some natural caverns amongst the underwood,
and on the summit of the
cliff
stands the unpre-
tending wooden konak of the Pasha, beside the

ruined square tower of the old castle.
VOL.
li.
130
The
principal portion of Broussa
is
hidden from
us by the gentle slope from the foot of the Castle

hill
we
see only a part of the
Jewish quarter, an
irregular mass of houses buried in trees.

this rise the noble forms
Behind
of Olympus, the peaked
summits changing in aspect with every changing

cloud
now shrouded
in vapour,
golden or ruby-coloured,
lilac,
now
and now a rugged
colour, with
now
flashing out
a deep purple or a pale
crest
of the faintest dove
some touches of dazzling snow lingering
in the deep fissures
and amongst the dark pine-trees
of the second region.
Breakfast over,
our rambles, and
who had
we
so,
are impatient to set out
business in the town.
and myself determined
to
Aunt Sarah, F
employ the time in explor-
ing those tempting-looking caves on the
which we fancy we can trace

start therefore
upon
while waiting for Colonel
hillside, to
a little pathway.
We
under the guidance of an old Jew
hanger-on of the house, or rather attended by him,

for
we
soon discover that he knows nothing of any
proper way, and that
we must
steeplechase for ourselves.
organise a kind of
Turning upwards from
we get at first
young mulberry- trees. Here we
the broad path leading into the town,

into a plantation of
wandered
for a time
amongst the slender boughs,
admiring the gigantic periwinkles which carpeted

the ground with dark -blue stars, and yet with an
131
we must
certainly be
uncomfortable feeling that
and that the old Jew
trespassing,
But
protest.
coming
is
resigned under
those caves had to be reached,
so,
to the brink of a very steep little path, pro-
mising to lead in the right direction, Aunt Sarah

in advance,
tive
and
we found
perfectl}'^ safe
down on our
we had
that
to adopt a primi-
method of descent,
we
echoed our laughter as
sat
for to
The
was impossible.
feet
go
hillside
down, and grasping
firmly at the masses of periwinkles on either side,

steered our
way one
platform below
down
in the
said
I,
to
Jew behind was coming
same manner, with the look of a patient
" Are
martyr.
after another to the small grassy
the old
call
we not
Frangs
deli
(mad Franks)
upon the poor pale
a smile
"Zarar yok, Madama "
**
(It
is
face.
of no consequence),
said he, with grave resignation.
After
much
all
our trouble, having previously been too
above,
we found
ourselves
the entrance to the cave
now
equally below,
we never reached
after straying into the private
it,
and
garden of an Arme-
nian house, frightening and being frightened by a

large watch-dog, and
disturbing a party of people
we quietly
we could dis-
placidly seated in a rose-covered arbour,
turned homewards by the shortest way
cover, consoling ourselves with the handfuls of lovely
wild flowers and fragments of glittering
After a
little
rest
we
stalactites.
btarted once more, the
Jew
132
carrying the sketching blocks.
Ben
patiently seated at the
We left poor Uncle
window
to
watch our
departure, and preparing to beguile his captivity
taking a sketch of the Castle
hill.
by
Another day,
when he may be able to move so far, we shall place

him in the jessamine arbour beneath, from which he
good view of turbaned Moslems, and
will have a
other attractive
while
"subjects," passing along,
enjoying the cool plashing of a tiny fountain in the

little
hotel garden.
We wave our handkerchiefs and
parasols at the last point visible from the window,
and disappear into the Jewish suburb.
Here the
remarkable cleanliness and brilliancy of the windows

of all the houses
class of
would have revealed
to
me
the
the inhabitants, had other evidence been
wanting, for I have always observed in Turkish
towns
that,
whatever
may
be their shortcomings in
the matter of cleanliness in other respects, the dwellings of the Israelites
may always be known by
wonderful brightness of their window panes.
women
the
Several
looked out at us from these windows, their
headdresses, a gauze or painted handkerchief, orna-
mented with a flower drooping near the
men wear
in the waist,
the
fez,
ear.
The
long straight dresses of cotton, very short
and a shawl girdle
they mostly adopt
which they bind round the brows with a
painted handkerchief.
At
the end of the Jews' quarter, and before enter-
"
133
ing that part of Broussa inhabited by the Greeks,
and immediately beneath the Castle
hill,
you come
upon an open space on the right of the road, where

the tangling creepers and
masses
work.
This spot
rubbish are varied by
masonry and crumbling brick-
of fallen
is
one vast grave, for
was here
it
that a large spinning factory stood on the slope of
the
hill,
and was utterly destroyed by the great
earthquake, partly shaken to the ground and partly
overwhelmed by the huge crags detached from the

overhanging
at
cliffs
work there
bodies have
was happily
a
young women were

them perished, and the
or sixty
fifty
every one of
never been disinterred.

at the
The
factory
time on half work, or more than
hundred persons would have been buried in
its
fall.
Leaving
this sad spot,
we
pass for some distance
along a raised pathway, covered by the projecting

first-floors
wooden
way
is
of the wooden houses, supported by high
posts.
The precaution
of raising the path-
probably taken on account of the heavy floods
of water which at times
middle of the
rush
tearing
street, particularly at the
down
the
season of
the melting snows.
We turn
the bazaars.
to the left,
and are
Here we come
at the entrance of
to a halt, for all are
simultaneously struck with a most effective

of
bazaar scenery
the low shops right and
**
left
bit
with
134
their
stores
of brightly coloured vegetables, heaps
of fresh spinach, pale green " coloketheas," glowing
tomatos, and bundles of gigantic leeks
then the
cooks* shops, with well burnished pans and bubbling
water in the middle of the paved
jets of
saddler's,
lets
with a great display of ornamental frontbufialoes,
for
floor
richly embossed
with
gaudy-
coloured beads, and high-peaked saddles bound and
mounted
in brass
the turbaned vendors are lazily
on their counters, or lounging in easy con-
sitting
versation with their neighbours.
are in the soft
roof
shadow thrown by the high raftered
but a few yards farther
roof ceases,
All these things
is
with a downward
boarding (picturesque to the
a break where the

flap of half-broken
last
degree, with its
garlands of vine branches), and a golden stream of
joyous sunshine pours on a marble fountain, the
trunk of a twisted elm-tree, the drooping thread-like

streamers of a weeping willow, and the brightlydressed figures about the primitive alfresco establish-
ment of an
light
is
This charming bit of
old cofiee seller.
brought out in strong
relief
by the gloom of
the farther streets of the bazaars stretching
from that point in several
Such a subject was not
away
directions.
to be lost,
and Colonel
planting himself firmly in the right spot,
as such a bold sketcher should be
utterly regardless
of
wondering eyes and gaping mouths, commenced

work
while
Aunt
Sally,
135
and myself,
at-
tended by Joseph, wandered away to see what was to

be seen, and, after a few turnings, came upon some
shops of Goarse native earthenware.
made
at
execution,
mony
This ware
is
Kutaya, and although exceedingly rough in

is
not without merit in the form and har-
in the colouring
the
prevailing tint
is
bluish-green, with the pattern picked out in black.
We bought for a few paras a-piece, mugs,

children
some
and
saltcellars,
pipe-shops,
ingenious
we made
after this,
ink-bottles,
little
toys
for
a descent upon the
where the long jessamine and cherry-
wood stems are
set
up
in bundles against the wall,
and the smaller wooden
pipes,
mented with amber and
more or
glass
less orna-
mouthpieces
and
wooden ** lules,'' repose in the glass cases. Some of

these wooden pipes are very prettily adorned with a
barbaric sort of traced pattern in colours.
Our shopping
cornelian
over,
including some strings of
charms purchased for a few pence, we
wended our way back towards the weeping willow,

a landmark where five or six roads meet. We discovered the Colonel,
still
sketching vigorously, sur-
rounded by an admiring and appreciative crowd of

natives.
I stationed myself beside
or two of the figures.
him
to take
The people behaved very
well. It is true they leaned oppressively close to
shoulder,
one
and I could not doubt that they made
my
free
136
use of the leeks and onions wliicli grow here to sucli

perfection
but they were so good-tempered that I
endured the
and
it
man was
view.
infliction
with the best grace possible,
was quite amusing
to see
how anxious each
that his neighbour should not impede our
One ragged
individual constituted himself
master of the ceremonies, lamentably frustrating our

efforts
seize the effect of the quiet dignity of
to
some genuine old Asiatic Turk, or the lounging

swagger of a passing zebek, by announcing the
to the victim in
the tchelebi
or,
is
" Ibrahim,
right eye
triumphant haste
fact
*'Now, oh Mustafa,
making your picture ; stand still "
:
my
soul
the Cocona
is
may
look round that she
doing your
"
see
it
well
the effect of which, of course, was that the Ibrahims
and the Mustafas immediately

which we
lost
the
position
were trying to perpetuate, dropped their
arms straight down, turned out their
toes,
and looked
But we struggled on, resigned

and when we shut up our books
to the inevitable
and resumed our progress through the bazaars, we
had the satisfaction of feeling that we had furnished
intensely sheepish.
;
the good folks of that quarter with an interesting

topic of conversation over their pipes
and
coffee for
the next day or two.

I had undertaken to pioneer
my
friends towards
the Gueuk-dereh (the Heavenly Valley), the most

beautiful of the gorges of
Olympus.
The way
for
137
THE BATHS OF BR0U8SA.

some distance
not interesting
is
you follow an
interminable street of private houses, or rather of

their garden walls, varied only
by the
police station,
with a group of brilliantly bedecked zebeks and

zaptiehs lounging round the gate,
At one
sional fountain.
and by an occa-
Colonel
of these.
paused to take a sketch, his attendant Jew holding
The
the umbrella over his head.
contrast between
the firm attitude of the free-born Briton, and the
bending, timid air of the patient Jew, was

I took a note of
tible.
it
in
my
irresis-
sketch-book
after
which, seated on the stone ledge roimd the base of a

small mosque,
we stopped an ice-man who was
ing, with his ice-pail
swathed in
flannel,
pass-
and his gay-
looking stand covered with tiny saucers and arrow-
shaped spoons, and decked with

flowers.
His
ices
little bunches of
proved to be the " Caimacli dou-
dourma," or cream
ice
compound of
delicious
sweet cream, salep, sugar, and rose-water, which he

served out liberally heaped up in the gold and blue
saucers, at the rate of
We
one penny each.
reached the valley at
last,
after
and winding, following the course of a
many
rill
a turn
of clear
water which was tumbling and bubbling down the
The
some distance by
centre of the wonderfully uneven pavement.
gorge
is
fringed on both sides for
the houses of the

to leave
human
Armenian quarter
but hastening
habitations behind us,
and passing
138
beyond a
little
wooden bridge thrown lightly over
the ravine, turned upwards on the right-hand bank
along a lovely mountain path (reminding me strongly

of a similar
pathway
Grande
in the Desert of the
we reached the neighbourhood of

They are rough-looking flour-mills, worked
Chartreuse) until
the mills.
by a small but impetuous torrent which

course
its
is
guided in
by a succession of dilapidated and wildly
picturesque troughs, mounted on high wooden piles,

and, as
it
were,
dripping leaves, sparkling with
falling drops all over the neglected decaying structure.
We
wards far
stop,
but the path goes winding up-
away among
blushing rose-bushes,
crags,
blossoming
round
shrubs and
threatening granite
and blocks of the purest white marble,
till it
passes out of sight in the vapoury chasms of the
noble mountain.
The view from the
mills of
Gueuk-dereh
(at
the
point where the rugged path turns abruptly round
the trunk of a large walnut-tree)

beautiful about Broussa.
is
one of the most
The foreground
is
the
deep leafy ravine, clothed with every variety of

foliage,
from the great elm, and walnut, and moun-
tain-ash,
our
whose topmost branches are almost beneath
feet, to
the soft blossoming elder, the wild vine,
the hop, the broad-leaved rhubarb, the rich green
masses of the wild angelica, the thyme, the mint,
which spring luxuriantly
all
around.
The
opposite
THE BATHS OF BR0US8A.

side of the gorge rises dark,
139
and stem, and gloomy
on a small plateau, capping a projecting mass of
immense cypress shoots upwards,
granite rock, an
tall
and
straight, casting a long blue
shadow over
a few irregular tombstones, which cluster round

the grey trunk, and over a party of bright
little
Turkish children, flickering in and out of the sun-
shine.
down from
below
noisy stream of water comes tumbling
the upper regions of the mountain
wooden
bridge,
it
far
through the solemn gloom of
us, it rushes
the deep chasm
as
it
passes beneath
the light
catches some sparkles of bright-
ness from between the dense masses of boughs and

creepers, then loses itself in the darkness of a ruined
stone arch.
Beyond
this,
some of the buildings of
the city appear, embosomed in trees,
among which
white minarets, pink, blue, yellow, and dove-coloured

houses, peep out here
and there
and we can
dis-
tinguish the
domes and minarets of the Yeshil Djami.
Then
is
there
purple,
and
a broad space of shimmering tints of
rose,
and gold-colour,
in
which we make
out the rich plain of Broussa, with villages and
mulberry groves, sleeping in the evening sunlight

the panorama finishes with a range of lilac-tinted
mountains.
It is a scene to look-
upon and
to store
memory for ever.

made a somewhat hasty retreat from this wellnamed " Heavenly Valley," for being seized with a
in one's
I
140
SKETCHES OP EASTERN LIFE AND SCENERY.
spirit of investigation, I
bottom of the ravine.
undertook to explore the
I was getting on pretty well,
with the assistance of Joseph, when, crossing a small

dyke, I contrived to step, not across, but into the
pool,
so
on
that
rejoining
moment
enthusiasm for the
was decided
our party,
my
with
considerably damped,
it
to return at once to the hotel, a distance
of two or three miles.
On our
road back through the Jews' quarter,
observed the
working.
one and
women
They were mostly making
all
window, hard
at
sitting
silk buttons,
One delicate,
were busily employed.
young Jewess was
we
in groups outside their doors,
and
pale
on a couch near her
work; there was a tiny baby,
whose hammock-cradle, suspended
in the
doorway,
was being swung vigorously backwards and
for-
wards
We
no one
apparently setting
it
in motion.
found that the industrious young mother, in order

to leave her
hands
by a string fastened
at liberty,
to
much-abused people cannot

of idleness.
was moving the cradle
one of her
at
feet.
any
I think these
rate be accused
X.

NO.
TCHEKIRGHE.
II.
Mountain Trout. The View and the Passers-by. The Trysting

Tree.A Sober Traveller.A Wild Zebek.A Santon.
Hawks and Storks. A Start. The Mouradiyeh Suburb.
The Mosque and its Surroundings. An Aggressive Umbrella. Rustic Fountains.The " Kief."Bademli Bagtche.
Yeni Kaplidja Hammam.
Cypresses.
Tchekirgho.
Fountain of Hot and Cold Water.The Sultan's " Tonghra."

Interior of the Mosque. The Ruined Turbe."
Flowery Lane. 'A Rustic Resting-place. The Mineral
Eski Kaplidja
Hammam. The Mosque
of
Mourad
I.
**
Waters
We
of Eski -Kaplidja.
are very merry at our breakfast table, talking
over our excursion of the previous day, and laying

out our plans for
hours.
vanni,
We
making the most
who has
just brought
pail full of lively trout, taken
the summit of
many
coming
Gio-
for our inspection a
from a small lake near
Mount Olympus.
have the monopoly of

there are not
up
of the
moment by
are interrupted for a
Some Armenians
this supply,
and I imagine
of the inhabitants
who would
wish to infringe their right of fetching them from

almost inaccessible altitudes.
may as well mention
that oil extracted from the trout
an
infallible
remedy
in
is
cases of
considered here
rheumatism and
142
stiff joints
high
used at the baths, and
it is
is
sold at a
price.
trout dismissed to the lower regions
"Well, the
of the house,
whence they
will
emerge
at dinner-
time considerably sobered, we begin once more to
"We weigh the comparative merits
discuss our plans.
of horses and donkeys, with a decided leaning towards
the former
be had easily
but,
on inquiry, finding they are not
to
number having been sent

from Mondania
we resign
the greater
off to fetch the travellers
ourselves to the humbler style of locomotion, and,
while waiting the convenience of the very inde-
pendent donkey boys, we turn for a moment to that

lovely scene of wonderful fertility, which induced
one author to remark that "the Moors, when exiled
from Andalusia, which they

Paradise
the
the terrestrial
tribes
later,
to seek a refuge
their fate,
man
still call
who,
and Jewish
under
and came
thought they had found new Grenada
shared
the Otto-
sultans
in this rich and beautiful country."
The weather
is
delightful
soft fleeting clouds
tone across the landscape.

float slowly, first
bright and breezy, with
which throw cool patches of purple
"We watch them as they
over the broad expanse of woodland
and mulberry grove, with walnut, chestnut, and

plane-tree,
waving poplar and
stately cypress, which,
beginning at the foot of the crag under our windows,

stretches
away
to half the
width of the plain
then
143
the shade softens for an instant the glowing brilliancy
dimming
of the rich cultivation beyond,
as
the silvery sparkle of the winding Niloufar
the
little river flashes out,
it
passes
but soon
bright and joyous in the
sunshine, and the purple shadow
is
creeping away
gently up the noble mountain range which bounds

the view
the
Mount
Katarli {Arganthonios). Some-
times, as these shadows of the clouds
over the
flit
rock-bound gorges, or the light vapours rest on the
summit of the mountain,

and majestic
it
looks all sombre, solemn,
then, as the sun again, touching
the points, gradually bathes
it
up
in a soft radiance,
bright patches of cultivation spring into view, climb-
ing high up to the foot of the granite crags, nestling
even in the
little
dips and dells between them, with
here and there a winding horse-track, a scattered

hamlet, or a solitary tchiflik
around the base are
hedgerows and patches of rich red and yellow earth

above, in the distance,
peaks and summits of
rise,
blue and shadowy, the
Mount Samanli, on
the farther
shore of the Gulf of Mondania.
The northern end

by two high
of the Katarli range
is
pointed
fantastic masses of granite rock, over-
hanging the Greek village of Fillardar, and below

it
many
other villages, half buried in their mul-
berry groves and vineyards
which
to
is
give
the principal
Demirdesch, celebrated for

life to
the landscape.
its silk
To the
among
help
south, the
SKETCHES or EASTERN LIFE AND SCENEEY.
144
mountains,
rise
and
bounding the
still
fertile
luxuriant plain,
with exquisite variety of outline, until
fall
they melt away in the blue distance towards Kutaya,

Yeni-Shehir, and the wild regions of the interior of
Asia Minor.
But our
is
soon attracted from the rather
dreamy contemplation
of primeval hills to the living
attention
and breathing beings who enliven the foreground of
The
our picture.
the baths
hotel stands on the highroad to
behind the house, the grey rock
rises so
abruptly that the ground floor of our next-door
neighbour's wooden tenement projects
beams
close
its
under the corner of our
supporting
roof,
while in
front the narrow stony road, with its low parapet,
On
quite overhangs a large dilapidated flour-mill.
the other side of the low wall a pomegranate in full

blossom, a myrtle-bush, and a fig-tree covered with
its
young
into sight
fruit, just
;
raise
their topmost branches
then the grey rock
falls straight
down,
draped and festooned with creepers of every form
and
all
colour, to a small platform of neglected
ablaze with scarlet poppies
it
ground
dips again, to
nearly the level of the plain, very abruptly
much
so,
can almost distinguish the

squirrel
who
is
soft fur
of
the
so
we
little
gracefully winding about the top-
most branches of a
the road.
indeed, that without raising our eyes
lofty poplar
on the other side of
145
Directly in front of the entrance to this broad
turning road, which seems to plunge into a wilderness of leafy shade, a hundred yards or so farther
on
is
a halting-point for those
who
welcome the
**
coming," or " speed the parting guest."

here in the shelter of a
Some
chestnut-tree
large
whom
the right, to take leave of the friends
have escorted thus

for those
fur
from the town
who may come
into sight from under the
the people as they pass either way.

:
to
they
others, to wait
green canopy of the overhanging boughs.
has arrived and stopped
stop
We watch
Greek party
there are three horses well
laden with baggage, bedding, and carpets, with large
panniers for the children,

several
men and women
say a few last words
who
are already installed
are on foot
they pause and
the horses' girths are examined,
the baggage readjusted, the soft carpets folded more
commodiously on the top of the heap

is
little
into their
leave-taking, two
places
on
the
between the panniers, a
women
carpeting,
man
onwards
till
then there
half
gets into
position above the third horse,
follow on foot,
are hoisted
up
astride
a similar
two or three more
and the small procession moves slowly
the friends watch
them from the corner
they disappear behind the drooping boughs of
an enormous walnut-tree.
Now other
figures pass across the space,
emerging
from under those same walnut boughs; a stately

VOL.
11.
146

ample bright green
venerable Turk, wearing an
turban and a dove-coloured cloak, with wide hang-
He
ing sleeves.
rides a sleek donkey, with plenty
of red tassels and a general air of comfort about
him, and
by
followed
is
his
servant on another
donkey, carrying his master's long pipe in his hand,
and his small travelling pack on the back of the

saddle.
They
steadiness,
are jogging on with imperturbable
and
it is
well that the road
is
very broad
comes now, rushing helter-
at this part, for there
skelter past them, a wild-looking individual,
urging his fiery

head
is
Arab with
who
his shovel stirrups
is
his
covered with the brilliant crimson and gold-
coloured Syrian haik,
its
his breast and shoulders
long fringes floating over

the coils of his shawl -girdle
cover one-third of his body, his belt bristles with
many
sword, yataghan, pistols, and
other weapons,
and in his right hand he grasps a formidable match-
He is
lock.
a zaptieh, or policeman, sometimes here
called a zebek, a kind of half-tamed brigand.
Something
ward
of
else
comes slowly and totteringly
into the patch of sunshine
mulberry boughs
for the
it
is
for-
a huge mass
silkworms, and
we
at
length make out the motive power, in the tiny hoofs

of a feeble
among
little
donkey.
It has a
head somewhere
the leaves, but undiscernible
with bare legs and a new red

like a gigantic
fez,
a dirty boy
which bobs about
poppy among the green
leaves,
is

poking the animal on from behind.
talikas rattle
by
full of
147
Next, three
Turkish women, and accom-
panied by two shabbily-dressed mounted servants

it is
the harem of a small Pasha,
stantinople for the bathing season.
Turkish
women
in thick white
come from Con-
Then
follow
some
yashmaks, worn out-
side the feradje, according to Broussa fashion; they
with a child's head peeping contentedly
sit astride,
above the edge of the pannier on each side of the

horse.
Behind them, a heavy bullock-cart
is
moving
ponderously along, with a pleasant jingle of bells
from the animals' heads, and a deep bass accompani-
ment of ghastly groans from the creaking,

ing wheels.
This
is
followed at a short distance by
some camels, who have

different tune,
and
suffer-
bells also,
their footfall
but which ring a
is noiseless.
Presently comes an old Greek priest, on foot
he
has a long snow-white beard and a high black hat
without a brim
then a party of Mussulman der-
vishes, with tall caps equally brimless, but
yellowish
felt,
and looking
like inverted
made
of
unbaked
them is a wild-looking Santon, who

mahogany and streaming black hair.
flower-pots; with
has a face like
He
is
clothed in a wondrous mass of tatters, which
must take him a full month to adjust, and, once

hung together, they are never afterwards disturbed.
At a short distance behind the Santon, who is hobbling forward, proffering occasionally his begging-
148
dish,
resembling a small antediluvian canoe sus-
pended from chains, there passes down the road the

other
way
a restive and very vicious-looking donkey,
carrying a Greek lady to the baths.

like the Turkish women, but plus the
must account
She
any way, put
astride
crinoline,
for the animal's capers
objects to being, in
is
which
perhaps
when we
are deep in this profound speculation
he
"We
into a cage.
sud-
denly perceive that the space that we have so long
been watching
is
empty
for a
moment, and we have
time to note that, in addition to the cool sound of

the rushing mill-stream, the song of the nightingales
is
unceasing
the voices of
There
who
is
it rises
many
all
around
mingling with
us,
other feathered choristers.
a great twittering of the swallows also,
are building their nests in the corners of our
windows, but just now they seem disturbed, and are

wheeling round and round in a confused, purposeless
kind of way.
Ah
there
is
the cause
swooping swiftly towards us
speck
is
close,
and we
see a large
hawk with
beak, and vicious-looking claws
under
its
happy
breast,
little
its
now
He
brown
it
passes
strong hooked
drawn tightly up
ready to pounce upon the
victim.
first
un-
has of course, nothing to
say to the fine stone eagle, soaring loftily and solemnly
towards the rock-crowned summit of Mount Katarli,
nor will he venture an encounter with that ungainly

stork
who comes
sailing heavily along, his thin
neck
149
stretched out, and his long legs hanging helplessly
downwards, intent on reaching the dwelling which

he has erected on the broken top of the ruined
turbe, close to the
mosque
Mourad
of
II.
The stork's
reminds us that we are going in the same
flight
direction ourselves, for the donkeys are at the door,
and the time

There
is
is
too precious to be wasted.
little diflBculty at first
about the start-
ing, as here thick-padded cushions only are used,
and the animals object

do not
fit
to our English saddles; they
them, and the donkey-boys never manage
But we are
to fasten the girths properly.
length, after
one
is
much laughing
decidedly too large for one's conveyance, and
must inevitably topple
over,
we
start
on our
Tchekirghe, the village of the iron baths
having taken
Jew
off at
and, with a feeling that
for the proper
care, as
he
visit to
Colonel
said, to charter a
conveyance of the sketching
blocks.
Turning
to the left
from the door of the hotel, our
small cavalcade winds, stumbling along, over the
rough, uneven road, through a part of the village,

or rather suburb, called the Mouradiyeh, from the
mosque of Sultan Mourad

northern extremity.
II.,
We came
ing the ruined tomb of a
saint,
which stands
to
it
at the
soon after pass-
supporting the house
of our friend the stork.

I
have rarely seen anything more thoroughly
150
Oriental than this old mosque witli
its
surroundings,
and the figures lounging and grouped about the

open space in
but
it
The mosque itself is not
front.
by various
During
fantastic patterns in brickwork.
the late restorations,
has undergone an amount of
it
whitewashing which has not improved
I liked
it.
tints painted
All about
left
by time on
it
is
its
neglected surface.
caffe,
To the
delightfully in keeping.
of the mosque, at the entrance of the

old
it
and red
better formerly, with the green, yellow,
little
large,
has a fine colonnade, the architrave ornamented
street, is a
frequented by wild zebeks, bending
under the weight of their warlike

with their hideous
and imams, who
hats,
felt
sat
dervishes
belts,
and venerable mollahs
smoking long pipes and nod-
ding their enormous turbans at each other as we

passed.
An
old
Turk was pounding
his corn in the
public mortar in the centre of the green.
In one corner of the court of the mosque there

a most remarkable group of cypress-trees
of gigantic height,
and bend a
little
is
they are
forwards over
the road, some of the large branches being gnarled
and twisted in an incredible manner.
On
the right side of the open square stand some
antique Turkish houses painted a pale green, with

small pointed windows
and beyond them, on a line
with the principal building,
work entrance
is
the massive brick-
to the enclosure containing the
tombs

of
Mourad and
151
Farther on, another build-
his family.
ing, also of fine brickwork, is a part of the original
foundation, which included, besides the mausoleum,
a school, a khan, and a kitchen for the poor.
The bright masses
of crimson roses seen through
the grated openings of the wall of the enclosure,

the
faint
deep cool shade of the lofty plane-trees, the
murmur
of a plashing fountain, almost tempted
us to dismount and visit this interesting burial-place.
But we
resisted
the
fascination
for to-day,
and,
pushing forwards towards Tchekirghe, were soon in

a lovely winding lane
except the pavement

stones
and
lovely, indeed, in everything
that
seems as
if
large formless
had been flung down by some giant hand,
left
to settle themselves as
Some people
will tell
best
they might.
you that these roads were
formed by Hannibal, by way of beguiling his exile;
and as they have, doubtless, received
little
or
no
care since that remote period, their present state

quite in the natural order
of
things.
however, of the condition of the

our
feet,
which, after
more than
all,
In
is
spite,
ground beneath
concerns the donkeys
we thoroughly enjoy our
their riders,
progress.
Colonel
leads the van.
Strong in the pos-
session of those sketching blocks, he presses gallantly

on, prepared to
if
commit the whole country
need be, inch by inch
to paper,
but the conscious dignity
SKETCHES OE EASTERN LIFE AND SCENERY.
152
of the advance
is
sadly
dimmed by the unruly
con-
duct of a large old umbrella (spread open for the

sun),
which absolutely refuses
to
do duty otherwise
than inside out, shooting up at the same time
and aggressive
sive
points,
which entangle in
oiOfen-
all
the
bushes by the wayside.
We
pass some rustic marble fountains nestled in
the luxuriant vegetation by the roadside.
Close to
one of these, of rather higher pretensions, a small

police station has been established, outside of
they have erected a
kief, or place of repose.
which
The
arrangements are quite primitive. Some leafy boughs

rudely bound together, and supported on slight poles,
form the roof
few squares of matting are spread
on the earth, and a cafedjie has formed, in a hollow

of the bank, a miniature fireplace of stones,
he
boils his tiny pot of coffee
where
he has also hollowed
out a shelf in this bank, and ranged his painted

waiter, his little cups,
upon
it,
and even a narghile or two
with perfect order.
His pincers for taking
the live coal to the smokers are pendent from a nail

in the trunk of a tree
it,
and a clean
soft
a tchibouk
is
leaning against
towel droops from one of the
lower branches.
Three of the policemen, picturesque personages,

with
fierce
moustaches and formidably armed, with
very
much
of the brigand about them, are enjoying
a smoke and a quiet chat as they lounge upon the
153

matting
but a few low stools are standing about for
the benefit of such customers as pretend to ultra refinement, and they really look so inviting under the
flickering green
mine
shadow of the
to rest there for a
that
we
deter-
few minutes, the more espe-
cially as a peasant has just

full of
kief,
splendid cherries
come up with a basket
so
we take
possession of
the stools and eat cherries, while the cafedjie bustles
about with the excitement of distinguished
visitors.
The awful-looking brigands have proved benignant

neighbours.
gained the good graces of one of
them by bestowing some of my cherries on his funny

little dog, who ate the fruit and put out the stones
quite like
I
was going
to say a
human
being, but
must rather say much better than the human beings
of these parts ; for here every one,
baby, eats cherries, stones and
down to the smallest
all,
with perfect un-
concern, which proves that the air of Broussa
is
wonderful for the digestion.
Soon
after
leaving this pleasant kief, the
hedge on the right-hand side of the road
ceases,
tall
and
a beautiful view of the fertile plain opens out at
some distance below.
In the foreground there
is
broad terrace of greensward, upon which stands a

dismantled Turkish house.
This spot
is
known
as
Bademli Bagtche (the garden of the almond- trees).

It
gives
its
name
to
the mineral springs which
supply the sulphur baths clustered together a
little
154
SKETCHES OF EASTEEN LIFE AND SCENERY.
below the grassy plateau, the largest and most important of which
is
you look down upon
Haramam
the Yeni Kaplidja

its
massive buildings,
domes, and solid stone walls.
its
noble
Still lower you can

Kara Mustafa Ham-
just perceive the roof of the
mam, reserved for the exclusive use of women.

Resuming our way along the high road, we passed
two other sulphur baths, neither of them remarkable from an architectural point of view, but
much
The
large
esteemed for the quality of the springs.
octagonal building, painted of a pale green, which

stands near the gate of one of them,
Fatma
Sultana, a daughter of
is
the tomb of
Mehemet Ghazi.
After passing this group of baths, our road dipped

for a while
under a canopy of over-arching boughs,
then into the denser shadow of a grove of splendid

cypress-trees
graceful,
such
spreading,
lofty,
have met with nothing
in Constantinople.
but very
and majestic. They are not unlike a certain
kind of cedar.
them
cypresses
inferior,
may
to equal
few trees of this
sort,
be seen in the Turkish burial-
ground near the Oc-meidan.
The grove
is
a cemetery
turbaned tombstones,
mostly in the form of columns, and the yet more

ancient
square,
granite, all grey
upright
blocks
of
rough-hewn
and mossy with age, lean about in
every stage of neglected decay over the

turf, or
soft,
fresh
prop themselves against the knotted trunks

The gay
of the trees.
in this spot,
155
flowers have ceased to glow
where everything has a tinge of gentle
melancholy, which might be
all
too sober without
the bright occasional glimpses of the distant plain,
gleaming here and there through the grey

ground, like flashes of
The earth
fore-
golden and azure "light.
here, as in
many
parts about Broussa,
but more especially in this neighbourhood,
is
of a
deep red colour, varied with patches of bright yellow
and orange, betraying the buried mineral wealth

which
lies, alas
unheeded and unsought
for
by the
careless masters of the land.
Emerging from the gloom

grove,
side,
we came
of the little cypress
out once more upon the open hill-
and dismounted on a grassy knoll fragrant with
thyme and bespangled with
daisies.
The
village of
Tchekirghe rose before us, crowning a steep
embosomed
in
trees.
The
graceful
and
hill
mosque
of
Mourad I., with its tapering minarets, points the

summit of the slope then pink and red and blue
and pale- green houses, half -buried among clustering
;
vines and swelling plane-trees
the
hill,
and
at the foot of
the fine collection of buildings called the
Eski Kaplidja
Hammam,
with two cupolas and a
basement of solid antique masonry.
The view was
too beautiful to be passed
in defiance of the
to
work, Colonel
by
so,
burning sun, we settled ourselves
under the memorable um-
156
brella,
reduced to order, and meekly held over his
head by the patient Jew.
made
We remained
we observed two
and
one on each side of the road,
looking like the
Perhaps these may
some remains of the strong
Orkhan, as historians
and
at the foot of the
large blocks of wrought stone,
foundations of a large portal.
be
we had
careful sketches of the spot, after which,
before entering the village,

hill,
until
us, at
tell
tower built by
Eski Kaplidja, for
the reduction of Broussa.
We reached the mosque
that built
I have already mentioned
by Mourad or Amurath
successor of Orkhan.
It
is
side of the principal facade stand
Oriental
rivalling
plane-trees
that
I.,
the son and
a majestic pile.
On
some of the
one
finest
have ever met with,
the lofty building in their height, and
spreading their giant arms across the broad terrace

in front,
which commands an admirable panoramic
view of the
fertile
groves, orchards,
champagne country, covered with
and vineyards, stretching away
to
the foot of the purple mountains.
A covered kief
of this terrace.
has been erected at the extremity

Several Turkish ladies were loung-
ing there on our arrival, enjoying the charming

prospect and the fresh breezes which sweep across
the plain; their ferMjes, of every hue of the rain-
bow, greatly enhancing the exquisite beauty of the
whole picture.

Adjoining this
kief,
and directly
157
in front of the
principal entrance to the mosque, a circular marble

basin, with a jet of water in
pleasant drowsy
the centre, adds
murmur, although on a
its
close exami-
nation I cannot say that the waters have a cooling

eSect, for this particular fountain has the
able
human
remark-
among
(not considered meritorious
attribute
beings) of " blowing hot and cold with the
The water flowing
same breath."
in the basin
steaming, while that bubbling up in the centre
and pure as
"We
is
is
cold
crystal.
turned
to
mosque,
the
visit
seeing
the
guardian, key in hand, waiting to conduct us, on
we
condition that
slipped
ing the threshold.
and
We
off"
our shoes before pass-
all
did this accordingly,
after crossing a lofty colonnade
and through a
handsome arched doorway, we stepped upon the

soft carpets
which covered the whole
floor of
rich
the
edifice.
This beautiful mosque was built by the orders of
Amurath during an
after
interval of repose at Broussa,
conquest of
the
Adrianople,
Philippopolis,
The architect was a prisoner of

Ottoman fleet a Greek or Frank
and Apollonia.
war
of
Christian
liar
the
;
and
this accounts doubtless for the pecu-
plan of the building, in the form of a cross,
which has led some persons
to
believe
been originally a Christian church.
it
to
have
Around the
158
SKETCHES OF EASTERN LIFE AND SCENERT.
base of the
dome
lie
constructed
sixteen
small
rooms, to serve as a school for students.
In the same year (1365) which saw the beginning

of this fine work
was commenced that wonderful
serai or palace of
still exists,
and decay.
Amurath,
though in the
Amurath
at Adrianople,
which
last stage of dilapidation
also completed
and enlarged
the buildings of the ancient Greek bath, near the

foot of the hill of Tcherkirghe.
He
built another
small mosque in the " Heavenly Yalley," besides

schools
and
hospitals.
This apparent favour towards pious and learned

institutions did not
prevent Amurath from being
profoundly ignorant.
He
and when called upon
could not sign his name,
to affix his signature to a
commercial treaty concluded with the merchants of
Ragusa, he adopted the simple expedient of plunging his hand into the ink, and dabbing
it
down
at
the top of the paper, with the three middle fingers
thumb and little finger stretched

This infantine mode of placing " Amurath,
united, the
mark," originated the

manual.
ward, as
monarch
toghra,
or imperial
out.
his
sign-
The form was adopted from that day forintended to signify the name of the reigning
;
a scribe, styled Nischandji Baschi,
or
secretary of state for the signature of the sultan,
being appointed to write beneath, in legible characters, the actual signification for the
time being.

It
may
still
169
be traced at the present day, rendered
elegant by flourishes and various delicate caligraphic

conceits.
The
interior of the
the exception of
its
mosque
at Tchekirgh^, with
peculiar form,
that of any other mosque, in
very
is
its quiet,
the small " mimber," or pulpit, with

staircase;
like
hushed aspect
its
straight little
the monstrous wax-light at the farther
end, on either side of the
which the Koran

Arabic
much
letters
is
**
mirhab," or niche in
deposited
round the
and the gigantic

forming the names
walls,
most venerated by the Mohammedan worshippers.

These massive characters
effect,
particularly
when
imposing
contrasted with the deliglass lamps
cate coronals of slender

glittering
have a very
and trembling from the
which hang
lofty cupolas of
the roof.
The imam who acted

and obliging.
as our guide
was very
civil
Indeed, the civility and good-humour
of the inhabitants of Broussa generally, as well as
the apparent absence of fanaticism, and the ease
with which
all
religious
establishments
visited, is a subject of universal
to this city.
little
It greatly
be
enhances the pleasure of our
excursions, to feel that
looks and kindly
may
remark by travellers
words,
we may expect
rather
repulse which often meets one
pleasant
than the rougli

in
rambles about
Constantinople, although even there there
ia
much
160

kind than casual travellers are
less difficulty of the
apt to imagine.
After our examination of the ground floor of the
mosque, which was soon terminated, as the whole
may
building
be seen at a glance, our guide con-
ducted us up a very dirty, rough-looking staircase to

the lone suite of prison-like rooms situated around
the dome.
There are sixteen of these dismal
cells,
We
with low doors and heavily grated windows.

just
peeped into the
cells,
rendered yet blacker
and more repulsive by the occupation of the

cassian refugees
years ago, and
from them and
who spent some time here

we were all right glad to
Cir-
a few
escape
more in the happy
to breathe once
sunshine streaming over the broad stone terrace
The narrow
above the portico.
staircase leading
up
the minaret, which opens from one corner of this

terrace,
tempted us to ask
if
we
could be per-
mitted to ascend to the exterior gallery, but the
guide declared
it
has been so
severely injured
rocks and threatens to
much
fall
declared, could only ascend
and
at the risk of his life
a minaret
had
to be
is
over.
dislocated,
it
The minaret
by the great
quake, that whenever the wind
consequently
any one not
to be impossible for
well accustomed to climb like a cat.
earth-
rather violent
The
it
staircase is
and he himself, he
with stockinged feet
so the idea of ascending
abandoned, and we
left
the
THE BATHS OP BROUSSA.

mosque
the tomb of the founder, on the
to visit
Here, again, the terrible
opposite side of the road.
earthquake had been at work
handsome turbe
folding,
161
is
the interior of the
a ruin, blocked up with scaf-
lumbered with masses of
fallen
marble
general scene of dust and desolation.
The handsome porphyry and verde-antiqae
co-
lumns, which formerly supported the roof, are some

of
them standing,
to pieces, they
it is
true, but
having been shaken
have been patched up again, bound
with hoops of iron to keep them
together,
and
covered with plaster.
Formerly, they say, the sword of Amurath was

preserved suspended over his tomb, together with
the cuirass which was dyed with his life-blood at
the great battle
Lazarus,
ment,
King of
some
as
of Cossova,
relate,
in
his
war against
In the heat of the engage-
Servia.
and
before
victory
was
declared for either party, a Servian noble, Milosch,
up suddenly from a heap
starting
of
dead and
dying, pretended that he had a secret to confide to
Amurath leaned eagerly forward to listen, and fell, mortally wounded by the
Servian's dagger.
The dying Emir * had strength
the Ottoman leader.
enough
left to
give orders which decided the victory
in his favour.
* It
was not
that the
VOL.
title
II.
until the reigfn of Bajazct, the son of
of Sultan
was adopted.
Amurath,
162
The death
of
Amurath
originated another peculiar
usage of the Ottoman Court
it
became, from that
time, an established custom that all persons about

to
be favoured with
an audience of the sultan
should be divested of their weapons, and led into the

presence securely held on each side by the chamber-
whose
lains,
office it is to
"We gazed
introduce strangers.
into the half-ruined turbe
from the
entrance door, wondering which might be the last

resting-place of the grizzly conqueror, or which,
either, the
tomb
of
his
if
slaughtered son, Sandschi
Bey, who was at one time governor here at Broussa
He
during his father's warlike campaigns.
after-
wards joined with the young Greek Prince Andronicus in an attempt at revolt.
was in
It
turbe
this
Tchekirghe
of
that
the
remains of the founder's grandson Musa were deposited
he had perished miserably in a marsh,
grievously wounded, from an
with the
partisans
Mohammed.
The
of his
more powerful brother
arrival of this funeral
Broussa produced a startling

of Caramania,
flying,
struggle
ineffectual
effect
train at
upon the Prince
then engaged in the burning and
destruction of the outskirts of the town, and

especially in a sacrilegious outrage on the
Bajazet, the father of the dead prince.
It
more
tomb of
seemed
to
the Caramanian to be a direct warning of divine
vengeance, and he fled in abject terror
nothing
THE BATHS OF BR0U8SA.
163
softened, however, for one of his faithful followers
observing that,
he thus took
if
flight before a
Ottoman, he could scarcely expect to
him
savage had
the trembling
living,
dead
resist
the
instantly
strangled on the spot.
We
mounted again, and having turned
are
after leaving
left,
the turbe,
to the
we have paused
at
the meeting of two roads, to select the one which
may
take us the quickest out upon the mountain's
side.
Before us
is
the large entrance gate of part
of an hotel which has been
kirghe
the other
the other side of the road.

this latter building a
watching
the
women who
the doorway of
group of European loungers
is
inhabit the other half for the bathing
difficulty
and some
European fashion
horse a
little
looking
veil.
her party
is
she
screaming, for an
little
One lady
in
than
young
when
a pale blue fer^dj^ and gos-
She continues
ready to
sitting
It is the
even more graceful
in
is
keeps her beautiful grey
apart from the rest.
we saw her before

samer
Round
proceedings of a party of Turkish
excursion on horseback.
hanum
opened at Tche-
and are now getting under weigh, with
season,
much
lately
half of the establishment lies on
start,
at a short distance until
then dashes forward at
a canter, and takes the lead.
Her women
follow,
with a brigand-looking cavass or two, and we, concluding from their manner that they quite
know
164
the
way
(whicli
we do
not),
promenade cannot
their
and that the scene of
fail
be a pretty spot,
to
determine to bring up the rear, at least until we are

fairly out of the straggling village,
and can see our
road before us.
We
were not deceived
a few windings brought
us to the entrance of a beautiful shady lane
but
here our donkey-boys showed symptoms of mutiny,

declaring that having been engaged to bring us to
We
Tchekirghe, they would go no farther.
knew
that the excursion was well within the powers of all
we
concerned, biped and quadruped, so

severed, tugged our animals into
went merrily
way,
on, along a little
arched
rose-bushes,
honeysuckle
here
again
file,
and
mazy, heathery path-
over with trees
struggle past
stoutly per-
single
and
We
shrubs.
and long branches

the
elder
of
and sweet-
scented privet strew their snows upon our head, and
we crush
donkeys'
the bright blue periwinkles beneath our

feet.
Up
and down went the
up and down, up and down, and

a sharp scramble, until
kief,
we came
finally
little
path
upwards, by
to a stop at a rustic
called the Kadi Kiosk.
Once before
along this
little
(it
was years ago) I came riding
pathway
then
(for it
was
earlier in
the year) these rose-bushes were heavy with sway-
ing pink clusters, the air was truly "
lilac- scented,"
as these beautiful bushes formed a leafy wall on either
165
entangled with honeysuckle and jessamine,
side,
of which any garden might be proud
the large
highly perfumed bunches of blossom were there in
One can hardly give too high an
perfection.
the exceeding
floral
not, I think, be surpassed
The
on
fortnight in April
last
May
idea of
beauty of this spot, which canthis side of the tropics.
and the
week
first
in
perhaps the best period for seeing the wild
is
flowers in perfection.
Below us the
slope of the
mountain is clothed with
mulberry, walnut, chestnut, and fruit-trees, varied
with rich vineyards and occasional patches of Indian

wheat,
it
till
reaches the plain, where the silvery
Niloufar flows swiftly and silently on towards the
antique stone bridge.
Near the banks are
timber which have been floated

forests of
carried
until
it
Mount Olympus, and

at the
off"
the plain
down from
proper season.
are waiting to be
Beyond the
breaks into a gorge of wondrous beauty,
gorge
lies
its rise.
spring upwards on the
and
somewhere
Within
the village of Missikeny, near which
the Niloufar takes
of rock
river
grassy for a while, then wooded again,
is
entering the very heart of the mountain.

this
piles of
the dense
left
Olympus continues
hand
forest scenery, while far
in the blue
and town of ApoUonia.
away
vapoury distance,
We are
to
in all the majesty
lie
in front,
the luko
not yet sufficiently
high up upon the mountain to distinguish them.
166
I think
it difficult
for
any person more thoroughly

ham,
to appreciate the simple comfort of chicken,
and Palmer's biscuits, with the addition of mohalib^,

ices,
and
bought on the spot of itinerant
coffee,
vendors, than did our small party, as
we reposed
in
the rustic shed, with the beautiful picture before us,
and refreshed by the music of a tiny fountain, which

bubbled up within the kief from amongst tufts of
and other wild
soft grass, bright daisies,
flowers.
The mohalibedjie and the iceman had wandered up

to this favourite halting-place, in hopes of a stray
customer or two
the coffee was furnished by the
who
turbaned proprietor of the shed,
smoking a narghile,
washed his
spring.
little
on a mat
sat
after supplying our wants, or
cups in the running water of the
All was very primitive, very peaceful.
After a long rest
we
left it
with some regret and a
strong determination to return.
how
By-the-bye,
often do travellers express a positive and unalterable

intention to revisit this or that lovely spot, and
how
very, very rarely
But
we
is
the intention carried out
certainly will return to the
cannot leave Broussa without a
Inkaya, higher up the mountain
"We took a
different
we
on a lower slope of the
hill,
was damped, not
Kadi Kiosk,
visit to
for
we
the cave of
side.
road homewards
the village altogether,
avoiding
struck into a shady lane
but here our enjoyment
to say annihilated,
by the
atro-
167
ciously bad pavement, varied with mudholes,
which
made the progress something between a stumble

and a flounder, until we landed once more in the
usual highway, just a degree less bad, near the great
iron bath of Eski Kaplidja.
beautiful blue bird, very large,
unknown
was clinging
to us,
grey stonework
his
and of a kind
to a projection of the
mate flew in and out the
heavy draperies of green
ivy, covering a part of the
The cupolas have been lately defaced

(admiring natives deem them ornamented) by a
lower wall.
coarse blue design on whitewash
a sad
eyesore on
that part of the building.
The mineral waters and baths of Eski Kaplidja

were celebrated in very early times
much
or, as
the domes and
of the superstructure were built by Amurath,
he
is
really called here,
Mourad
I.,
but the
foundations and basement story, as well as the bath

itself,
are old Greek
work of wonderful
solidity.
Passing downwards below the level of the wooden
rooms
for patients,
which cling to the east front of
the building, and are further supported on high
wooden
piles (which,
by the way, give the whole
thing a most picturesque
effect
from a distance), we
came upon a white marble gateway, ornamented with

small columns and other signs of former care and
adornment about
chamber
filled
it.
This led us into a large vaulted
with steam rising from a seething
68

narrow
rivulet whicli mslies tumultuously through a
channel in the ground, whence, tumbling down the

hillside, it is lost in
The ground
a wilderness of trees and shrubs.
of this open vault
is
formed of
layers of mineral deposit, which has raised
solid
con-
it
siderably above the original level, and a conical mass
of the same substance, issuing from the inner wall
of the building, looks like a petrified cataract
round aperture
now
the water
is
completely blocked up by
finds its escape
We
vaulted chamber.
the
it,
and
from within a second
were drawn there by the
roaring sound of the torrent, but the heat and thick
steam made
survey.
it
impossible to take more than a rapid
The waters
of Tchekirghe have at times
quite an inky tinge.

objection to crossing
it
My
donkey had a particular
as
bubbled down the road,
it
however small or insignificant the
On
rill
might
be.
way back towards the entrance to the

Aunt Sarah stopped to take from the grey
our
village,
wall of the bath some tufts of exquisite maidenhair fern, which grows there in profusion.
of ferneries
may
find
A lover
great treasures here;
Aunt
Sarah's collection, as well as her book of wild flowers,

is
rapidly becoming valuable
some of the specimens
are extremely rare.
Our
return from Tchekirghe was
marked by no
greater incident than that a group of pretty

girls at play in the
little
open ground before the mosque

of
Mourad
sweet
II.,
saluted our passage with stones.
little dot,
grasping a
as long as herself,
down F
my
*8
169
muddy
was calmly preparing
dress,
when
wipe
to
the
little
creature
shrank back, but the moment I was at a safe

tance a sharp stone flew past
me
my own
hand
dis-
with great force,
considering the tiny hand from which

cut
it
I prevented her, raising
parasol in pretended anger
slightly.
One
old shoe nearly
it
came
it
Such a blow on the face
might have been unpleasant.
But
these incidents
are matters of course at Broussa, where all the little
children are pretty, and

particularly
at
all
throw stones
at strangers,
Franks, most especially at
the youthful population being, I
am
ladies,
sorry to say, as
notoriously rude and ill-mannered as their elders are

civil,
good-humoured, and obliging.
XI.
BROUSSA
NO.
SILK.
I.
of InvestigaSensitiveness of the Worm, Value of Mulberry-leaves,

and of SUkworm Seed. Great Care Needed. The First
Sleep.A Healthy Appetite.The Second Sleep.The Third
Sleep. ^Voracity. Repose and Work. The Miniature Grove.
A Fairy Hamac. The Cocoon. Silk-rearing Establishment at Demirdesch. Frames used in Removal. The Moths.
The "Graiaeurs." The Riches of a Peasant that "Make
themselves Wings." The Public Ovens. The Quality of the
Eastern Method of Rearing Silkworms.
Difficulties
tion.
Water used
The method
in
Washing the
Silk.
of rearing silkworms in this country-
does not essentially differ from that in use in the

south of France, yet the silk produced at Broussa
and throughout Asia Minor being in great request

at
some of the largest manufactories
examination of the Eastern
some
It
system
at Lyons,
may
an
discover
details of interest.
must be observed, however, that such examina-
tion is
by no means an easy matter
are mostly raised
the silkworms
by the peasants who, with
superstitious dread of the evil eye, seek

possible
means
to
their
by every
guard their precious nurslings
BROUSSA SILK.
171
from the noxious glance of strangers
but into one
or two large establishments at Demirdesch, a few
miles from Broussa
ened masters
the property of more enlight-
visitors are
sometimes admitted with-
out reserve.
The silkworm's
seed, are
eggs, called, in trade, silkworm
produced on sheets of paper or squares of
The
linen cloth.
seed brought from Japan
always
is
on coarse linen, upon which the moth has fixed

eggs so closely and firmly, that
it
its
may be washed
several times without risk of detaching them.
The extreme
delicacy of the silkworm, its sensi-
tiveness to all outward influences, renders the rearing
of this creature difficult and uncertain
all
atmo-
spheric changes, noise, bad odours, damp, oppressive
weather, or great heat

particularly injurious;
paring to spin,
make
it
wlQ refuse
it
it
suffer
a storm
takes fright, and

to climb
up
if
is
pre-
into the
branches, and quickly perishes.
During the
first
to note the anxiety
mind
this time the precious
passing through the stages of
Every one
existence.
most serious tone
An
it is
curious
which weighs upon the public
At
at Broussa.
weeks of summer
six
its
worm
nervous and
is
fragile
discusses the weather in the
no other conversation
is possible.
overcast sky brings a corresponding cloud on
the brow
heartiest
man, and a threatened storm or a
great heat unstrings the nerves of the

slight
172
roll

of
thunder produces
Many merchants
risk
general
consternation.
heavy sums in the purchase of
the seed, and one hour of tempestuous weather
be
sufficient to ruin
There are few large establishments
silkworm
for
Demirdesch
rearing, such as the one visited at
more customary
may
them.
it is
the merchant to speculate in
for
the purchase of seed, which he distributes to the

peasants,
receive in
who
worms
in their cottages,
and
a proportion of the cocoons.
If
raise the
payment
the peasant does not
own
merchant provides the
a mulberry plantation, the
leaves, which,
from the enor-
mous quantity devoured by the worms before they

reach maturity, cost a very considerable
sum
of
money.
The mulberry-leaves
tation or
by the
are sold either
load.
The
according to circumstances
been known to
sell for as
ing badly.
The
price varies greatly,
the load of leaves has
much
have an almost nominal value
by the plan-
as
if
T., while
they
the eggs are hatch-
price of the silkworm seed
is
cal-
culated not only according to quality, but according

to the prospects of the season.
It varies
francs to 2,000 francs the ocque (rather
2f
from 800
more than
lbs.)
At Broussa it is commonly said that the nourishment of the worm does not affect the colour of the
silk, which depends entirely upon its species. When
173
BROUSSA SILK.
there
a scarcity of mulberry-leaves, they give
is
lettuce to the
young worms, but
must not be long continued
weak and
valueless.
this sort of food
it
Some people
makes the
silk
use the very ten-
der oak- leaves even in preference to the mulberry.
The
best kind of mulberry-tree
was brought from
Italy and grown at Broussa by the late Mr. Sandison,
who was
the
first
English consul in this
city.
Silkworms just hatched require the most minute
and constant
care,
good workman
with a gentle and even heat.
sets the
heated to a given temperature.
worms, scarcely larger than

into
eggs to hatch in a chamber
The
ants, are
a room slightly cooler
little
black
then carried
they give them the
youngest and tenderest leaves chopped as finely as

possible.
Two
or three times a day the food
newed by sprinkling
it
lightly
is
re-
the worms, already
very voracious, climb quickly up into the fresh

green.
At the end of eight days

has grown rapidly, while
lighter,
its
makes
the young worm, which

its
its first sleep,
colour has become
during which
it
casts
skin and comes forth, at the expiration of the
term
from twenty-four
to thirty hours
invigorated
and embellished, to feed again with renewed appetite.
It
supplied
now devours
the leaves whole, and they are
more frequently.
extraordinary feeding powers.
healthy
worm
has
During the period
SKETCHES OF EASTERN LIFE AND SCENEKY.
174
of sleep the
worms have
a strong
mark on the
fore-
head.
Another
with a fresh change of skin, takes
sleep,
place at the end of a second interval of eight days,
and the worms
issue
from
it
more hungry than
After the third sleep, leaves no longer suffice
ever.
small
branches are placed upon the trays and rapidly
Some
stripped.
species of the silkworm sleep three,
others four times

eats
after the last
no more, but prepares
In a chamber
grove of
little
for
sleep
work in
set apart for the
worm
the
earnest.
cocoons a miniature
branches and twigs of dry oak has
been prepared, by fixing them around the walls and
upon light frames
all
over the
and the worms
carried in,
lose
The
floor.
no time in
trays are
installing
They climb all about, select their restand begin by making a tiny fairy hamac,
themselves.
ing-place,
in
which they gradually disappear, enveloped in the
beautiful tissue of the cocoon, which

colour, gold, or amber.
a pale
lilac
is
white, straw-
Sometimes they are found of
or of a bluish tinge
the white
is
the
most esteemed.
Forty days
is
the period usually required for rear-
ing the silkworm
workman
till it
begins to spin, and a capable
will take care that it shall
have consumed
in that time a given quantity of food.
If the insect
does not eat sufficiently, the quality of the silk
weak.
When
the
worm
is
idle
is
and delays the
175
BROUSSA SILK.
spinning time until the hot days of July, the silk
Twenty- two degrees (E.)
becomes almost worthless.
make the worm sicken.

Amongst the numerous dangers
of heat will
frail
ant
and precious
may
to
which these
workers are exposed, the
little
be reckoned as the most formidable, and
requires minute attention to preserve

sting of their enemy, which
it
them from the
is fatal.
In the great silk-rearing establishments at Demirdesch we found vast chambers perfectly aired, but
sheltered from draught,
and the temperature would
have been agreeable but for the sickening odour of

millions of little worms,
lost
who were making up
The building was
of wood, considered preferable
to stone, as less liable to absorb

it
for
time after their second sleep.
and retain damp
had the appearance of a large barn.
Most of the
rooms were carpeted with trays about a yard long,
and rather narrow, upon which a multitude of worms

were devouring the freshly spread
and
noisily
for the noise
merable collection of tiny jaws,

is
almost inconceivable.
leaves, vigorously
produced by this innuall
working
at once,
Every two or three days
the trays are emptied and cleaned.
In order to remove the worms they use here long

bands of netting strained upon open frames
these
are spread with fresh food and placed lightly above
the worms,
who
thus easily transfer themselves to
176
their
new bed
as
it
This
of leaves.
is
an excellent plan
avoids the necessity of touching
Many worms
creatures.
are destroyed
the
little
when they
by hand, or even by an instrument,
are removed
however carefully used.
The amount
of
work required
rearing establishment
culation that
may
in a great silkworm
be estimated by the cal-
the produce of one ocque of eggs
(2| lbs.) needs the unremitting attention of forty

persons, in order that the
and equally
fed,
and
also
worms may be regularly

(no less important)
kept
scrupulously clean.
In ordinary years the cocoons are ready to be

collected in the early part of June.
tity is reserved for the eggs, and, in
laoth
away
pierces
short
its
small quan-
due time, the
its
beautiful
prison-house,
life,
and
leaving on the square
dies,
flutters
of paper or linen hundreds of eggs, fastened in close
and perfectly symmetrical rows, looking like minute

seed pearls.
The moths chosen for this end are selected with

Each one is taken lightly, and
the greatest care.
the head and eyes examined
only those that show
every sign of perfect health are allowed to finish

their career in peace.
When
the silkworms are beginning to spin, some
amongst them refuse

inactive
these are
ill
to work,
and
and remain behind,
will soon die.
177
BROUSSA SILK.
The remains of dead worms

by fowls, but
are eaten with avidity
nourishment gives a bad
this sort of
flavour both to the poultry
and
to their eggs.
Immediately after the cocoon
the
harvest, all
roads and bywiiys of Asia Minor as
well as the
southern parts of European Turkey, are overrun by
busy
travellers.
little
more dangerous parts
to
Pedlars ?
tourists ? Certainly not.
have no pack and
who
are these
village?
Simple
stranger will ask
men, hastening from village
Still less, for
they
baggage, and yet in the
of the country they
strong escort, heavily armed, which
still
prevent frequent mishaps, for the brigand
have a
does not
who
dis-
dains to molest a modest traveller in search of the

picturesque, keeps a keen look-out for these myste-
They
rious wayfarers.
graineurs,"
are called in French
'*
les
men whose
fresh silkworm seed.
business it is to buy up the

The peasants with whom they
trade understand nothing of cheques, and the pur-
chaser must carry
all his
fortune in solid coin, which
makes him a valuable prey.
The cocoons intended

must be exposed
for a
either to the sun or
for the
spinning wheels
few minutes to a strong heat,

in ovens constructed for the
purpose, in order to kill the grub before
a moth.
is
thrown upon the cocoons
used.
VOL.
Any
II.
it
becomes
In some of these ovens a jet of hot vapour

;
in others, dry heat
is
delay in destroying the grub causes the
178
loss of the cocoon,
which once pierced,
cast aside as
is
useful only for the most inferior tissues.
Formerly, in the province of Broussa, as throughout Anatolia, the necessity for a rapid and forced
sale of their cocoons caused great loss to the poorer
the ovens being in the spinning fac-
peasants
tories, a
high charge was made for their
all
could the poor
do,
whose whole fortune con-
few bushels of cocoons, and hope
sisted of a
little
donkey, and
set off for
the nearest
town, along a road ablaze with hot sunshine.
not
unfrequently happened
that
He
them on the
baskets in hot haste, packed
filled his
mule or
man
What
use.
It
heat
the great
hastened the development of the unlucky moth,
which issued joyfully from

in
its
silken
tomb
to revel
newborn freedom, while the unfortunate country-
man, waking perhaps from a nap under a shady

sees his baskets
which thickens and increases

in frantic
tree,
crowned by a fluttering white haze
haste
his riches,
made themselves wings.

Some years ago, this
as
he pushes forward
which have
difficulty
literally
was overcome by
the establishment of public ovens built along the
high roads of the province of Broussa. The

of this beneficent and useful scheme
untiring energy of
Broussa
is
indebted
thropic works.
is
initiative
due
to the
Ahmed Yefyk Pasha, to whom

for many valuable and philan-
These public ovens are the property
BR0U8SA SILK.
179
of the village schools, and the small charge

for the use of
of cocoons),
is
made
them (about a farthing per kilogramme

within the means of the smallest purse,
while by the immense quantity of cocoons brought,

a small income
derived for the benefit of the
is
schools.
The
cocoons are preferred.
first
Four oques of
cocoons should yield one oque of good

proportion
The
has an
is
silk,
but this
uncertain.
quality of the water used in washing the silk

effect
on
its
value
the spring which flows
from the heights of Sultan Selim, on the side of
Mount Olympus, and is brought to the quarter called

Hamsa Bey, is the finest for the purpose. Silk washed
in this water gains
stream
is
so heavily
20 per cent, in the market.
charged with mineral substances,
that the pipes through which
it
flows
down the moun-
tain are quickly filled with incrustation,
the incline
is
This
extremely rapid.
although
XII.
BROUSSA
NO.
IT.
SILK.
THE SPINNING FACTORIES.
Spinning "Fabrika." Unpleasant Odour from the Boiling

Cocoons. Native Workgirls. Their Pay. Clever Workers.
-^The Finished Hank. Broussa Gauze. Handkerchiefs.
Towelling. The Bath Burnous.
" Burundjik."
Strangers
the
visiting Broussa naturally conclude,
name "fabrika" given
to the lofty
dowed buildings grouped together
from
many- win-
at the
two ex-
tremities of the city, that the beautiful gauze for
which
this place is celebrated is
these workshops.
It is not so,
are exclusively spinning factories

in private houses, principally
manufactured in
however
;
the fabrikas
the silk
is
woven
by women.
Let us enter a large Armenian fabrika that

situated behind the Mouradiyeh suburb.
great entrance-door
is
Near the
many groups of women and
girls
are lounging in the shade of noble chestnut-trees
that overhang a neglected
courtyard.
Some
are
crouched on the grass, eating a scanty breakfast of

bread and hard white cheese
others, leaning
on the
grey mossy stones of a ruined wall, are laughing
and whispering
as they take note of the strangers
BR0U8SA SILK.
who
are gazing at them.
rest,
and we must wait
gong
recalls the
181
It is " paidos,'* the
hour of
until the clash of a great
workwomen
We
to their duties.
quickly follow them into a vast room, running the
whole length of the building.
The
noise of the wheels
at first
some resolution
is
to
deafening, and
hundred wheels,
fifty
This gallery contains a
on each
The
in,
As the new
they are winding
girls are
worked by steam,
side,
but half of them only are in use.
not yet come
requires
and heavy vapour
influences of the sickening smell
from the boiling cocoons.
it
withstand the unpleasant
silk
has
last year's cocoons.
mostly Greeks, with three or four
Turkish girls amongst them, wearing an apology for

a yashmak.
There
the city which
is
is
a factory in another quarter of
worked entirely by Turkish women.
The Mussulman women of Broussa
are very indus-
they do a great deal of heavy work in the
trious
fields
and amongst the mulberry plantations
weave a great proportion of the

stuffs,
and you may frequently
silk
see
they
and cotton
an energetic
countrywoman bringing her dairy produce
in
from
her distant homestead, or bearing a heavy load of

leaves for the silkworms, for sale in the market.
Working hours
to sunset
in the factories are from sunrise
consequently, the pay
is
higher in summer
than in winter. It ranges from three

a day (6d. to Is. 4d.).
to eight piastres
182
Eacli girl sits before a square trough of boiling

water, kept at
50
injected into
from time
it
Reaumur by means
to time.
provision of
cocoons hangs in a bag before each trough

is
of steam
a bunch
taken out and beaten lightly with a whisk in a
basin of boiling water

children.
It is
work
this
done in order
is
given to the
ends of
to detach the
the gossamer threads, after which the cocoons are
The spinner
thrown into the great trough.

a cluster of the threads,
number
generally four
together between
collects
and separating the required
moment
rolls these for a
her palms, and
passing them,
doubled, through two small porcelain buttons in
they join, and are carried over two wire
front,
hooks above her head, then again over two other

hooks, and the spinner pressing
a large canvas cylinder which
it
it
is
with her finger on

revolving rapidly,
catches the delicate silken thread, and the skein,
once begun, continues without break until the required weight

fectly
is
obtained.
The
fine thread is per-
even and regular. The talent of a good spinner
consists in the adroit placing of
cocoon
is
exhausted.
new threads
The machinery
is
as each
so arranged
that each cylinder winds two skeins at once, the
worker using
right and
same time the cylinders
to the
left.
strict
factories
at the
superintendence
overseers, both
is
maintained in these
men and women,
are con-
BR0D8SA SILK.
stantly passing
up and down before the wheels,
remove instantly the finished hank.

siderable ability
183
and experience
to
to
It requires con-
do this exactly at
the right moment, as they must judge by the eye

of the weight of silk
moving
wound
The skeins
it.
into a skein before re-
are then carried into another
part of the building, where they are weighed, essayed,

classed,
in
and
finally twisted into the beautiful hanks,
which form they are ready for the
silk
bazaar
and the weaving looms.

After the real
silk threads
have been wound
ofi*
the cocoon, there remains the interior covering of the

grub, colourless and uneven in texture.
use of as
**
spun
silk,"
and
This
is
made
for articles of inferior
quality.
The
attitude of the silk-spinner
girls, as is
delicate
is
graceful.
The
the case with most Eastern women, have
and well-formed hands, and their arms much
adorned with bangle bracelets, worthless but picturesque
but they
suffer terribly
from the boiling
water in which their fingers are constantly plunged,
and
to relieve
them
in
some degree they have a basin
of cold water always ready.
bathe their fingers with
In the evening they
vitriol.
The beautiful silk gauze, which is now so well

known throughout Europe, is woven in rough handlooms in private houses. The genuine Turkish article
is very narrow, and it requires a considerable number
184
of yards to
make
The
a dress.
about six or seven piastres

Is. 4d. to Is. 6d.
cost at Broussa is
tlie pic,
equivalent to
In Stamboul the price
a yard.
is
higher.
In
spite of its light
Broussa gauze
is
and diaphanous texture, the
silkiness
The
When
extremely strong.
the material, while losing
its
washed,
evenness, acquires a
and softness much preferred by many people.
prettiest gauzes are those with white or maize-
coloured stripes, as the silk has always a yellowish

tinge
blue and pink stripes are never so clear and
true in colour.
Black gauzes, striped with black or
white, are also very successful, and from the durability of the material are less expensive
of the light fabrics of English or
than most
French manu-
facture.
Very good handkerchiefs, also,
are
made at Broussa,
not unlike our India-silk handkerchiefs, as well as a
mixture of
silk
and
cotton, cool
and strong, much
used for light summer clothing for men.

Passing from the silk trade to the cotton manufactures,
towel
we must especiall}^ notice the

The soft fluffy Broussa towel
stuff.
celebrated
is
made
in
the rudest and most primitive-looking looms, scattered about in the cottages, but principally in a low
quarter of the bazaars.
We visited
a mean-looking
dwelling, where, in a rough room on the ground

floor,
seven looms had been set up.
Five of them
185
BROUSSA SILK.
were being worked by three
men and two
boys,
who
threw the shuttle with marvellous dexterity, while

another boy was busy winding spools of coloured
silk,
These
ready to be woven into the borderings.
towels,
when
of a superior kind, are expensive, even
at Broussa, costing as
about
5s.
the pair
but the quality

the imitations
in the soft,
much
they are
is
as thirty piastres, or
always sold in pairs
immeasurably superior to any of
made
in England, which utterly
fail
spongy, absorbent texture that forms
the great charm of the genuine fabric.
The bath burnous, in the same downy material, is

known to need description. It is a modern
too well
innovation
the old-fashioned bath takim, or
consists of one
immense towel
or
set,
wrapper about two
yards long, and wide in proportion
3'ard long, to envelop the shoulders,
of another a
and a
third,
rather smaller, for the head.
The burundjik, a
beautiful material used for the
best sort of caikdjis shirts, looks like a very thick
cream-coloured crape with silky stripes. It
woven
is
largely
at Broussa, as also throughout all this part of
Asia Minor.
XIII.
THE MINERAL BATH.

Hammam.
The Yeni - Kaplidja
Shifting
Crowd.
The
The
Robing -room.
The Hammamdji.
Sookluk. Screened Compartments and Dwelling-rooms.
Great Heat of the Springs. Picturesque Scene in the
Djamekian. Swing Cradles. Youth and Age. A Betrothal
Party. Two Brides Elect. Ceremonious " Sela'ams."
Handsome Swimming-bath. Mosaics and Coloured Tiles.
A Beautiful Bather, Touching Solicitude for an Aged
Djamekian,
or
Negress.
The Yeni -Kaplidja Hammam,
the largest and hand-
somest of the Broussa baths, was embellished by the

Sultana Mirhimah, a daughter of Soliman the
nificent
and wife of his grand
her name
fine
is also
vizier,
Mag-
Rustem Pasha
celebrated as the foundress of the
mosque near the Adrianople Gate of Stamboul.
In our own day the perfect restoration of YeniKaplidja

of
is
due
to the indefatigable zeal
Ahmed Vefyk Pasha.
west side of the
beyond the
last
city,
is
and labours
situated on the
about a quarter of a mile
houses of the Mouradiyeh suburb,
and below a projecting

as the
This bath
bluff of the
mountain known
Bademli Bagtch^ (the almond garden).
the edge of this plateau you look
From
down upon
the
THE MINERAL BATH.
187
domes of the large building covered with thick
glass
bubbles, serving as windows, which give the effect

of a violent eruption on the metal surface, produced
might be fancied) by the intensity of the heat
(it
beneath.
The entrance
from
this,
is
through a shabby wooden portico
by a very short passage, you
in the presence of a
women and
of
boys
also,
moving, shifting, talking crowd
matter of dress.
to
and indeed some very small
girls,
in every stage of decomposition in the
One
at first, feeling that

like to
find yourself
is
many
little
of
uncomfortable just
them may not
quite
be gazed at by strangers, but as no one seems
mind
it
in the least, it is needless to be over-con-
siderate.
We had come a
small party of ladies
with
intention of trying the effect of the baths

first
the
but the
glance into the djamekian, or robing-room, was
enough.
The
heat, the unpleasant odour (arising
principally from the mineral waters), the sloppy,
dirty state of the floor, but, above

unattractive
crowd
with
all,
the very
whom we must
have
mingled in such close communion, was too much

our
spirit of enterprise,
quiet
and we sought
comer where we might
look around, quite abandoning
rest a
all
for
for
some
moment and
idea of becoming
sharers in the delights of the place.
bath consists of three principal divisions
the
188
djamekian,
some there
the
is
reached from the
is
The djamekian
Hammam
is
furnished
there
is
round with a
all
feet
from the
a marble fountain of cold water in
the centre of the hall.
In this
chamber, the
first
bathers rest on their arrival, and they return to
wrapped up in
towels,
When
is
the bath
after
little
The bathers
smoking and sipping
off,
when they can
the outer air with safety
dress
lie
cofiee, until
hammam
the efiect of the great heat of the
have passed
is
mattresses covered with
the striped sheets of the country.

for a time,
it,
leaving the water.
used by men, the platform
neatly furnished with
down
yarakan (sudatorium).
wooden platform, raised about two

ground
In
a fourth chamber of intense heat, for
vapour baths, which

it is called
and the hammam.
sookluk,
shall
and encounter
but at such times as the
bath
is
given over to the women, everything of the
kind
is
carefully removed, as the ladies
it
from early morning the place
is
make a day of
They
crowded.
bring their babies and their dinners, and create such
an amount of
litter
and
dirt that the
hammamdji
does wisely in leaving them nothing but the bare

boards, on which they spread their
own
mattresses
must be observed that we are

speaking of women of the humbler classes.
and
carpets.
The sookluk
It
is
an intermediary chamber, through
which you pass into the hammam.
THE MINERAL BATH.

The djamekian
is
189
by small windows,
lighted
The sookluk
placed very high up towards the roof.
and the
hummam
a subdued light from
receive
the glassy bubbles before mentioned.
The hammamdji,
pies,
or mistress of the bath, occu-
on the left of the entry, a raised platform,
from which she commands a view of the

receives the entrance
money
hall.
She
as the bathers arrive,
and superintends from her elevation the order and

general working of the establishment.
women
Several bath-
are employed under her.
Looking about
for a resting-place,
we
discovered
a small unappropriated space on the edge of the

platform, near the little hearth where the coffee was
being prepared; and, encouraged by a good-naturedlooking negress,

sion,
we
who seemed
installed ourselves
to hold partial posses-
and began
to
examine
the novel scene.
At
the farther end of the vast hall some high
wooden
partitions enclosed
rooms
let
out for the use
of persons of a superior rank, and near us, on each

side of the entrance door, the platform
and screened from the public by

pied in a similar manner.
raised higher
cafesses
was occu-
There are also built
round outside the bath several apartments, which
may be
hired for the bathing season.
They command
most exquisite views of the surrounding country, and

are exceedingly cool
and
airy.
190
For wealthy
for a fortnight or
seldom
if
is
sometimes hired
at a time.
Ladies of rank
families the bath
more
hammam.
ever frequent the public
At
Constantinople every house of importance contains a

private bath, occasionally
more than
one.
At Broussa
the better class of ladies either go to the mineral
bath at an hour when they can secure

selves, or the
water
is
brought
closed barrels, the heat of

80 great that the water
evening
is
to the
it
to
them-
houses in great
some of the springs being
brought in the course of the
not of a proper temperature for use before
the following morning.
The scene we gazed upon
in the
djamekian of
Yeni-Kaplidja was strange and decidedly picturesque.
The price of admission being very trifling, Turkish

women, Greeks, Armenians, negresses, and even
gipsies, crowd the place, and we could not but remark that, considering the very motley nature of
the assembly and the low class of the greater
of the bathers, there
was much
sense of propriety than
number
less to ofiend one's
might have been expected
under the circumstances.
The
pied.
places in this great robin g-hall were all occu-
From
long beams stretching round the room,
at a height of six feet above the platform,
those running into the wall,

peries of all sorts
and
hung
colours.
feradjes
Little
and from
and dra-
hammock-
cradles were fastened about in every direction wher-
THE MINERAL BATH.
191
ever a cord could be conveniently fixed, and the poor

babies were being violently
I never before
forwards.
Some
tossed.
set the little
hand, some with the foot
pened by chance
thought
upon
it
to get a
and
if
moment*s
one hap-
little
rest,
a passer-by
it
again
and away went the hammock more
A very pretty young
furiously than before.
couches
so ruthlessly
beds in motion with the
her neighbourly duty to send
its travels,
woman
swung backwards and
saw infants
Turkish
near us had her baby in one of these vibrating

;
a very tastefully embroidered silk coverlet
was thrown across
its
feet; a broad band,
worked
in
gold and ingeniously secured by bits of wood, served

to
keep the infant from
was guarded from the
falling, while its tiny face
flies
by a gaily ornamented
gauze handkerchief.
Around us the
parties of
women on
the platforms
were eating, drinking, smoking, sleeping, dressing

or undressing, according to fancy.
At
the
handsome
white marble fountain in the centre some bathers,

just returned from the hotter rooms,
their heads
and faces
were bathing
in the cold water, or drinking
from the metal bowl attached by a chain to the

basin.
Others eat
vendor,
who
is
the fountain.
women
ices,
standing round a female ice-
crouched on the
floor at the foot of
The dripping forms
clattered
of the bathing
by on high wooden "naelin"
to
and
from the hammam, poising on their heads a dry
192
bundle of the
soft
soap in the metal
Turkish towels, or perhaps the

**
tass "
Some women
or bowl.
returning from the water were enveloped in the

burnous, or in the bathing takim or " set," consisting of a large
wrap folded round the waist and
falling below the knees, a smaller one covering the
shoulders,
and a third winding round the head like
a fantastic turban.
to the
Those who intended returning
plunging-bath wore only the large wrapper,
which being of
of the wearer,
silk or cotton,
is
according to the means
always striped, most usually in broad
bands of red and orange, which greatly increases the

picturesque effect of the clinging draperies.
Most
of the girls were adorned with necklaces of rough
cornelian charms, and wore bangle-like bracelets.
Some small children walked
about, very
airily
simply and neatly dressed in a couple of gourds tied

to the waist as floats
two or three years old

its
nurse
and one sweet
left
little fairy
alone for a
moment by
stood carefully wrapping a towel about
head and shoulders, displaying the
of
its
prettiest little
pink and white form imaginable.
On
the whole, there was not
much beauty to be
women were fair,
remarked. Some few of the young
and
attractive
enough as they lounged with
grace chatting with their friends.

ladies
No,
it is
But
careless
then, the old
impossible to describe them.
thing more apish, more shrivelled, more
Any-
mummy-
THE MINERAL BATH.

like than
193
some of those ancient matrons, with their
and partly a
scanty, straggling locks, partly grey
pinkish scarlet,
it
would be
they are only equalled,

specimens
If
if
difficult
imagine
to
not surpassed, by the stout
they were a sight not to be forgotten.
"a thing
of beauty
is
a joy for ever,"
be the result of gazing upon a
the East in her bathing costume
what must
elderly
fat,
woman
of
we were able
make our quiet ob-
Opposite to the spot from which

ourselves almost unnoticed
to
had taken up
servations, a Turkish bridal party
station for the day.
It consisted of
its
two young be-
trothed girls about to be married, with several relations
and some
One
slaves.
of the brides, though scarcely pretty, was
bright and rosy-cheeked
They
in any way.
arrival, resting
the other not remarkable
sat for
some time
and conversing, as
were to display their
after their
if their sole object
toilettes, for
they were hand-
somely dressed, and seemed to belong to a respectable

class of society
but at length they began to prepare
The
for the bath.
slaves extended
two
feradjes,
which served as a perfect screen, until the brides
emerged from the
handsome striped
shelter carefully enveloped
silk wrappers,
in
which passing over
the bosom and close under the arms, and falling

nearly to the ankles, formed a very modest and
cient covering
VOL.
II.
the hair
fell
suffi-
over the shoulders in
194
The improvised curtains just mentioned

were held up by their slaves for most of the women
long
plaits.
In almost every case
of a respectable standing.
the robing and unrobing were managed with great
decorum.
When
the two brides were fully ready, they pro-
ceeded to salute their immediate relations, kissing

their
hands and putting them
to the forehead
then
"
they slipped from the platform into their *'naelin

(clogs)
which were quite new and richly inlaid with
On
mother-of-pearl.
hall,
these they clattered across the
and went through the same ceremonies
respectful
salutation with
seated near us,
two groups
whom we
and
After the per-
formance of these duties, the young

their slaves,
went
off
women
supposed to be the
families of the bridegrooms elect.
by
of
of
girls,
attended
through the sookluk to the
hammam.
In about half an hour, flushed and panting from
the heat of the steaming pool, they returned to the
djamekian,
more
other
all
went
through
the
salutations
once
round, spent some time in eating ices and
dainties,
hammam.
and again disappeared into
Eastern
women
are not content
the
with
a moderate use of the water, but go in and out for

hours, eating between whiles
themselves with smoking.

retire
the old ladies solace
The bathers begin
about an hour or two before sunset.
to
THE MINERAL BATH.
We
195
hall, pro-
passed into the sookluk, a large
vided, like the djamekian, with a marble fountain
There
in the centre.
is
an oblong tank to the right
of the doorway, especially destined for the use of
People were lounging and walking
sick animals.
about here, waiting a few minutes before encounter-
The tem-
ing the cooler air of the robing-room.
perature, charged with sulphurous vapours,

to
be from 28 to 30 R.
was suffocating;
It
and on passing through the low doorway

bath-room,
great
it
said
is
required some
into the
resolution
to
induce us to remain a sufficient time to take in the

features of the scene, as the floor
hot water,
was deluged with
women were crowding
in
and
out,
the odour of the heavy vapour was sickening.
temperature can be lowered
away a few
It
desired,
The
by taking
of the glass bubbles in the roof.
The hammam
notice.
when
and
is
of Eski-Kaplidja deserves minute
exceedingly handsome, of an octagonal
form, and having a vast basin or swimming-bath

in the centre, in
down
which three circular steps lead
into the water.
The
floor of the hall is
com-
posed of a mosaic of exquisite coloured marbles, and

the walls, to a certain height, are lined with beautiful
while
porcelain tiles from Nicea, coloured and

all
above
is
gilt,
of the purest white marble.
Facing the principal entrance, a large entablature

of even richer coloured and gold tiling, surrounds a
196
delicate white
marble fountain
each of the eight sides
is
so
set in
the wall, while
formed as
to enclose a
small chamber provided with a fountain and jet of
water between the clusters of colonnettes supporting

the open archway
and again, between these cham-
bers, at each of the angles, there is a jet of water
and marble basin for ablutions.
The hot springs
that supply Yeni-Kaplidja issue
from a mass of incrustation of carbonate of lime,
The spring
a few yards distant from the building.

is
stated to
mark 68 R.
The great bath

out and
at
is
refilled, so
emptied every evening, cleaned
that bathers
who
are the
first to
arrive on the following morning, have the benefit of
perfectly pure and clean water.
As we entered the hammam, the marble lake was

women and girls floating about, some of them
full of
supported by
gourds.
They looked picturesque
enough, seen by the half light from the mysterious

little
windows in the
Some were
lofty cupola.
splashing about, their long hair streaming behind
them, while others sat on the margin wringing their

dripping tresses.
full
One handsome
girl
was lying
at
length on the burning marble pavement in an
attitude of such exquisite grace that
admiration.
The charm
fully heightened
we stopped
in
of the picture was wonder-
by the broad
stripes of
her wet
silk
wrapper, her cornelian necklace, and bright blue
THE MINERAL BATH.

hand
bangles, as, with one slender
ing her head, her d irk hair
197
slightly support-
back in a stream of
fell
glistening ripples.
But we could endure no longer stay
that
in
atmosphere and hastening through the sookluk into

;
the djamekian, took

coffee-stand.
up our old
Whilst waiting
cool to risk once
station near the
become
to
more the outer
air,
sufficiently
we were much
interested in watching the proceedings of a party on
A poor
the opposite side of the hall.
old negress,
hideously ugly and very feeble, was being tenderly
by two white
led along from the inner rooms
when they reached

by
the part of the platform occupied
their family, all the
invalid
girls
was helped on
women
rose,
and the poor
to the mattress
been prepared for her with as

she had been a pasha*s lady.
much
which had
gentle care as
Most
likely she
if
was
who had brought up the hanum or her

The little incident was quite touching
daughters.
the nurse
in its simple evidence of loving
and kindly feeling
towards the humble, unattractive black
slave.
xiy.
THE PEARL OF THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO.
Prosperous Island. Careful Cultivation of the Olive.

Lesbian Wine. The Harbours. Fine Harbour of Hiera.
Valuable Hot Springs. The Tomb of Kiatib Oglon. His
Fate. A Ruined Teke and Cemetery. Curious Epitaphs.
Bahhl Oenghizz Khan, the Last Prince of the Crimea.
Beauty of the Mytileniotes. The Daughters and their
Fortunate Destiny. Unequal Laws. Custom stronger than
Mythology and Legend. The Home of Erinna. Oenoese Castles.

An Open Roadstead. Fine View from the Promontory.
Law.
IssA, Pelasgia, Lesbos, Macaria,
celebrated
names
for
an island measuring but eighty-
one miles in length and forty-eight in width

yet,
might we venture
venerable from
named
"
its
The Pearl
many
Mytilene how
to
great antiquity
it
And
add one more to this
list
would be
of the Eastern Archipelago,"
the brightest jewel in the graceful chaplet of islands

sprinkled on the blue waters that bound the shores
of Asia Minor.
To the
island
of
Lesbos, the rival of Athens,
mythology owes some of

It
was on these
its
most poetical legends.
shores, dear to Apollo, that the
head
and the lyre of Orpheus, driven by the currents to
THE PEARL OF THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO. 199

the neighbourhood of Antlssa, were piously placed
same tomb, from which the head continued
in the
to utter oracles, while the mysterious tones of the
enchanted lyre had power to influence even the

stern
and rugged rocks of the
Was
it
island.
not to Lesbos that Arion, floating on his
dolphin, returned to his native land and raised a
The remains
statue in the temple of Apollo?
that famous temple are

coins,
visible,
still
of
and ancient
with the impress of Arion on the fabulous
dolphin, are not rare at Mytilene
but the accents
the mysterious lyre have been silent for long
of
centuries,
and the nightingales, no longer subjugated
by the powerful charm, sing
to please themselves,
without care for legend or fable.
Lesbos was renowned in ancient times for the

beauty of
its
women,
their wit, their delicate needle-
work, and their easy morality.
It is the land of
At Lesbos was born Sappho,
poetry.
before the Christian era
six centuries
and there her
pupil, the
gentle Erinna, died at the age of nineteen, leaving

to posterity the three
"
The
Distaff," *
hundred
lines of her
poem,
composed while spinning in the
* This
poem has not been preserved, but it is mentioned and

highly praised by several of the poets whoso lines form the Greek
anthology
the following extract, translated by a friend, is a
specimen of one of these sonnets
' There is a little sweet Lesbian way of Erinna's, but it is all
;
mixed with honey from the Muses her three hundred lines are
equal to Homer's, and she a maiden of nineteen years a worshipper
;
200
humble cottage of her
motlier,
who disapproved
her gifted child's poetic fancies.
of
She submitted
breathed out her soul to the movement of her spindle,
and passed away in the dawn of her genius and

renown.
Alceus, and divers poets, philosophers, and writers
of renown
Lesbonay, a sage in the time of Augustus,
who held
a class of rhetoric
Rome, and was the cherished
friend of Tiberius,
and Potamon,
at
have
It
all
his son,
contributed to the glory of their native
was
stantinople
was married
to
the daughter of the
Genoese Prince Gateluzzi, who was the

prince of Mytilene.
The
last Christian
island passed under the
yoke of Persia soon after the

Empire.
fall
of the Greek
The Genoese occupation of Mytilene has

numerous and important
and
forts,
credible
isle.
emperor of Con-
at Lesbos that the last
left
traces in remains of castles
of which local historians state the in-
number
at
thirteen thousand.
But the
great fortress that overhangs the principal town of
the island, and gives
it its
name
of Castro,
would
alone suffice to bear testimony to the past grandeur

of
its
Genoese princes.
It
is
a majestic pile, covering
the high promontory with immense towers and bastions,
within two lines of high crenellated walls. This
was touching the distaff in fear of her mother,

Erinna is as far above Sappho in hexameters, as Sappho is above Erinna in lyric verses."
of the Muses, she
who
stood at the web.

imposing mass, half ruined at the present time, closes
one side of the harbour.
eftect is admirable,
and
Viewed from the
as the harbour, that
it,
should give hospitality to ships of the largest

is
now, through neglect, so much
The
filled
size,
up that only
traffic
can find a refuge
fine steamers of the
Austrian Lloyd's
the lightest vessels of local

there.
the
have only too good
travellers
an opportunity of enjoying
sea,
and of the Egyptian
line
do not attempt
to enter
they remain in the open roadstead, to the great
dis-
comfort of their passengers and the serious detriment

of the cargo to be discharged.
sometimes in the winter, that

to disembark,
it
It
is
happens even
found impossible
and the steamer continues
towards Smyrna.
its
route
Occasionally in stormy weather
the vessel slackens speed without casting anchor.
The boatmen
of the great lighters, forced to brave
every danger, and accustomed from childhood to this

perilous service, display an almost incredible
amount
of strength and daring.
A few years since I arrived in this roadstead, under

the shadow of the fine Genoese castle. We had
stopped at Gallipoli, at the Dardanelles, and at
Tenedos
a small
island
renowned
for its wine,
but
offering no attraction to the traveller in the picture
of
its
burnt and arid slopes,
its
eight sad-looking windmills.
poor fortress, and
its
Farther, on the right
hand, Imbros and the pale majestic silhouette of
202
Samothrace melting into the
soft
evening haze
the picturesque and rugged coast of Mytilene
then
is fol-
lowed, until at sunset the steamer casts anchor before
the city.
The
arrival of the Austrian mail steamer is the
event of the week, and
all
the society of the place
meet on the summit of the rocky crag that overhangs the harbour.
At
clined, a lover of scenery
the same time,
may
graceful pictures imaginable.
so in-
if
enjoy one of the most
The town
of Mytilene,
that covers the isthmus at the foot of the hill on
which the
first
southwards to the
castle stands, stretches
slopes of a fine range of mountains.
The
sides,
clothed with luxuriant vegetation, show, amidst the
dark green of orange groves, or the pale foliage of

the olive, white villages, church steeples, pretty villas,
hamlets, and farms
then woods of chestnut, beech,
and plane vineyards, meadows, and upland pastures.

;
One
is
almost reminded of the bay of Naples and
of the rich slopes of Pansilippo.
Seen from the port, the town wears an aspect of

prosperity that
is
rarely
met with
in the East.
closer examination does not destroy this first im-
pression.
The
island of Mytilene rivals the neigh-
bouring island of Schio for richness and
and surpasses
fine race, of
exclusively.
it
in the industry
fertility,
and energy of the
Grecian origin, that inhabits
In a population of
it
almost
100,000
souls.

In
20,000 only are Mussulmans.
80,000 Greeks, 300
They
are,
may
this estimate of
be considered as foreigners.
with few exceptions, natives of the Ionian
Islands.
The
inhabitants of Mytilene are for the most
part landowners.
There are few large estates
on the other hand, extreme poverty
is
but,
unknown
in
The property of the Baltazzi family is

the most important, owing to the extreme care with
which it is cultivated and the labour bestowed on
the island.
the olive groves that form
its
principal wealth.
many
on
stiff
places, particularly
mountain
slopes,
the olive-trees require expensive and difficult
agement.
Each
separated from
tree,
must have a wall on the lower

earth around the roots.
In
may
vated the olive-roots
its
neighbours,
often
some idea of the importance of the
may be
tion of oil
stated that
amounted
the
less well
culti-
be
above
seen
ground, but the crop suffers in proportion.
it
man-
side to maintain
fields
In
To give
olive in Mytilene,
some years since the exportato
300,000 quintals.
Oranges and lemons are also much grown, although

this culture is less practised
ing island of Schio.
than in the neighbour-
Mulberry-trees
for
the use
of the silkworm, formerly so abundant that 100,000
ocques of cocoons could be exported

to
add a shade of tender green
the island.
The commerce
now serve merely
to the rich foliage of
in silk has ceased through
204
a
malady
of the worms,
and
little
use
is
now made
of this branch of industry.
The wine
times,
of Lesbos,
celebrated in
so
far from meriting at the present
is
The unfortunate custom
renown.
berries for colouring,
ancient
day
its
old
of adding elder-
and of rubbing the inside of
barrels with resinous plants, in the hope of preserving
the wine, give
it
an acrid and disagreeable flavour
that only natives appreciate.
The
island of Mytilene possesses natural advan-
tages which might, under a wise administration, go

far to restore its ancient importance.
three harbours
Kalonia
the largest
that of Sigri
but the large
inlet,
is
is
found on the west coast
known
as the
Harbour of the
Olives, or Hiera, distant only four miles
principal town,
is
There are
called the harbour of
from the
regarded as one of the most im-
portant in the Archipelago.
This arm of the
sheltered
by high mountains, runs
the land
sea,
fifteen miles into
the largest fleets of Europe might
lie
there at ease.
The abundance
of running water
springs, the pine-forests that
fresh sea breezes perfumed
that clothe all
climate of
East.
and of mineral
crown the heights, the
by the aromatic plants
the uncultivated land, render the
Mytilene one of the healthiest in the
The natural hot baths
are at present only
used by the inhabitants, as the total want of proper

accommodation makes a residence there impossible
for strangers
but the mineral springs have lost
nothing of their old healing virtues, and the erection of a simple but well- organised bathing estab-
lishment could not
One
fail to
be a successful speculation.
known
of these springs,
which the water gushes at
as Polichnito,
100, is used
from
by the neigh-
bouring peasants for cooking their food. They simply
plunge their caldrons into the stream, and the dinner

is
quickly ready.
Mytilene counts sixty-four towns and villages,

divided amongst
three districts
Castro, Molivo,
and Kalonia.
Castro
the capital of the island, and the resi-
is
dence of the Governor and of the consuls.
Turkish garrison occupies the great

complaint
is
made
of
this
castle,
but no
neighbourhood.
At
Mytilene the Mussulmans live in peace with the

Christian population, and the military band of the
regiment
is
highly appreciated by the loungers in
the elegant cafe and
garden at the base of the
fortress.
Near
to this spot,
and on the edge of the high road
that crosses the isthmus,
tomb surrounded by a
fine cypress.
local celebrity.
Bey
may
be seen a Mussulman
gilt railing
and shaded by a
This tomb recalls the tragic fate of a

Kiatib Oglon was the last Dereh-
of Smyrna, where his good looks,
agreeable
206
manners, and
immense fortune procured him
degree of popularity that gave umbrage to the

Sultan
Mahmoud
hand was not
The exact reason

departure
serious cause for displeasure.
not known, but one fine morning

fleet,
having received a hint on
from Constantinople,
cast
anchor
The Governor and the Admiral
before Smyrna.
exchanged
had
is
the admiral of the

his
Perhaps the sovereign, whose
II.
light,
visits,
and Kiatib Oglon accepted with
pleasure an invitation to dine on board.
named
that on the eve of the day
It is said
for the festivity
a mysterious friend sent to the Dereh-Bey three

presents
To
a horse, a gun, and a waist-scarf.
the Oriental mind the interpretation was, " Fly, or
you
will
meet a tragic death " Kiatib Oglon either

!
did not understand, or scorned the mysterious advice.
He
went on board, dined sumptuously, and
many compliments and

his boat
after
salutations, descended into
but he sees with amazement that, during
the progress of the feast, the great ship has quietly

glided
away from the
the far distance
shore,
and that Smyrna
they are nearing Mytilene.
is
in
The
rowers draw once more towards the vessel, and urge

the Dereh-Bey to regain the deck by the companion
ladder used by the sailors.
then fully comprehends his
he resigns himself
to
it,
The unfortunate man

Without a word
fate.
and the cord has soon
accomplished the terrible will of Sultan Mahmoud.

They
built
him a
beautiful tomb, turning, according
to custom, the inscription inwards, as
On
hill that
we
south,
overhangs the town towards the
an old cemetery shaded by some
find
cypress-trees.
a sign that
by superior authority.
the death was a violent one
small teke existed here, raised in
honour of a direct descendant of the Prophet, named
He
Ebul-Hassan-Ben-Hassan.
" cheriff
*'
The teke
stones
fresh
and
now
is
in ruins,
their marble
owing
time
and the handsome head-
and the
to the purity of
disjointed
left,
was at one
of Mecca, and died in exile at Mytilene.
gilt inscriptions still
the air
lean
to right
and broken, half buried
in
ram-
pant weeds and nettles, in the sad-looking enclosure.
And what sombre and

revealed by these epitaphs
one of the
sanguinary histories are

!
It is to
Kemal Bey,
most learned literary authorities in
Turkey, that the discovery of most of these inscrip-
They
tions is due.
fill
up an important void
in the
national history.
Some
of these records are before me.
narrates the fate of an exile
Mytilene.
who, four
who
The
first
died by poison at
The second is the epitaph of a personage

times Grand Vizier under three sultans,
strangled the heir to the throne to gain favour with
Osman
and himself perished in
III.,
same manner.
death.
The
One only on
the
exile in the
list attests
a natural
subject of the epitaph had a remarkable
208
man who
name, "The
Genghizz Khan, the
no onions."
eats
deserves notice
inscription
last
it
speaks
The last
Bahhl
of
reigning prince of that
who was named Khan
family in the Crimea,
of
He was
Bessarabia, after the Russian invasion.
where he died of
afterwards exiled to Mytilene,
grief in the early part of this century.
The
well made, and vigorous
more
delicate model,
dark,
wavy
hair, long
of a bluish-grey
the women, on a
have expressive
dark lashes shading
fine eyes
they have a majestic carriage, and
And
the case, for Mytilene
young
moment
the
with
features,
seem convinced of a fortunate destiny.
From
men
natives of Mytilene are a fine race, the
tall,
is
the paradise of
such
is
girls.
of her birth, the marriage
and
future prospects of a daughter are the subjects of
The eldest
They begin at
highest interest to the entire family.
daughter
particularly favoured.
is
once to spin, weave, and work, in order to provide

for
her trousseau and her household.
The mother
begins upon immense pieces of linen and cotton

stuffs
she makes vast lengths of woollen material
she embroiders the garments

thing.
As
she prepares every-
the sisters gradually grow up, they also
assist at the
loom.
spinning-wheel, the
distaff,
and the
All work for the eldest, but on each piece
of finished
stuff,
some lengths are reserved
younger daughters.
It
is,
for the
however, always the
THE PEAEL OF THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO. 209
who
eldest
receives the larger portion
inherits the family
mansion
the prosperous future of a daughter

so far, that
will give
it
up
she
it is
who
and the anxiety for
is
even carried
not unfrequently happens that parents

their
home and
its
comfortable ease, in
order that their child, on her marriage,
may
at once
be established there, going themselves to end their
days in some mean lodging.
When
ficiently rich to encounter the outlay,
man
is
suf-
he will build
a house for each of his daughters, preparing and

furnishing
it
entirely.
At the death of a father, it is the eldest brother

who is expected to support his sisters and to provide
He must not think of marriage for
their dowry.
himself until these sisters have been suitably estab-
When
lished.
there
is
the uncles even consider
neither father nor brother,

it
their duty to provide for
female relations as far as their means will
their
allow.
These usages, that give advantages to the daughters,

to the prejudice of the sons of a family,
may be found
they
although
in a lesser degree in the
manners
and customs of the Greeks, are far more stringent

Attempts have been
at Mytilene than elsewhere.
made
in vain to obtain
work with more

strong,
The
some modification that may
justice for
all.
Old habits are too
and very little improvement has been
effected.
traditions of the island date the origin of these
VOL. u.
I*
210
peculiar customs from the time of the conquest of
Mytilene by the Turks, when

persed or perished.
all
the
men were
dis-
The women and children alone
support for the desolate
man a protector,
home, who might be also
remained, and the arrival of a
husband for the daughter, was the aim and object

of their prayers.
What
emotions, what rivalries,
agitated all this feminine population
when a
boat
from Schio or from the mainland was discerned on

the
horizon
religion
to
It
and of their
endow the
race.
of their
Each family hastened
eldest daughter with all the finery that
could be procured.
garments
might bring husbands
She was dressed in her gayest
jewellery was borrowed on
all sides
and
they led her to the shore, anxious to present to the
view of the new arrivals the most beautiful and

attractive of those expectant brides.
XV.
ROUMANIAN MONASTERIES.
NO.
I.
In these days of eager exploration
it
would seem
incredible, but is nevertheless perfectly true, that a
beautiful region of civilised
unknown and
traveller.
artistic
unvisited
Europe remains as yet
by the ubiquitous English
country rich in attractions for the
and intelligent
tourist
a land of mountain
and stream, of forest-clad heights, and valleys of

luxuriant
fertility,
pitable race, in
inhabited by a simple and hos-
whose language, manners, and super-
stitions the traditions of their
Roman
origin can be
clearly traced.
This new " playground
*'
may
be reached, from
London, in three days, and the cost of a few weeks'

wanderings
other tour.
is less
than would be neeeded for any
I allude to the eastern slopes of the
Carpathian Mountains, where a month was lately

spent by a small party of English in visiting principally the monasteries
and convents of Moldavia.
The language of the Roumanians would prove a
212
many, being mainly de-
subject of deep interest to
rived from the
Roman
colonists settled in Dacia
by
Trajan in the beginning of tbe second century.
They introduced " a Latin which was no longer that

of
Rome, but a primitive and already corrupt
....
lect
dia-
there are words belonging to the ancient
Doric, to that popular idiom that had ceased to be
Rome
used in
in the time of Yirgil
and
Cicero.*'*
The curious salt mines at Okna and elsewhere,

the numerous mineral springs, and the great mineral
wealth of the country, might prove attractive to
many
while for the
of nature, there
artist,
the botanist, the lover
inexhaustible enjoyment in the
is
grandeur of mountain summits and mysterious depth
wooded gorge, in virgin
of
known
forests of almost
extent, in lovely valleys
of exquisite softness
and beauty, and
wealth of blossoms that carpet the
most
fertile
striking
un-
and woodland glades
countries in Europe
in the
soil
;
amazing
of one of the
and, lastly, the
and beautiful costumes worn by the Wal-
lachian peasantry form an additional attraction in

this
scheme of a novel holiday excursion.
To the
who can
traveller
some inconvenience
and
cheerfully submit to
no traveller
is
worthy
of
visit to
the mountain
monasteries of the Carpathians
may be
accomplished
the
name who cannot do
with the greatest
ease.
so
There
* Ubicini.
is
no necessity to
213
engage rooms beforehand, no heavy reckoning
damp
the
enjoyment of your short
stay.
country where hotels exist only in the
cities
to
In a
and
great towns near the line of railway, the wanderer

into the interior seeks his shelter in the monastery,
both men's and women's convents being equally

prepared to receive guests.
in a vehicle
You
simply drive up,
drawn by four horses harnessed abreast,

gateway you are at once
to the great entrance
received without question, installed in the guest-
house, and hospitably entertained for three days, an
allowance being made by the State for the reception
No
of travellers.
liberal
present
to
remuneration
is
exacted, but a
the hospital, the church,
the
schools, or the poor is thankfully received.
The
writer, with
two friends and an interpreter,
were, with one or two exceptions, the
people to
visit
beautiful wilderness in
ated
first
English
these monasteries and to explore the
which they are mostly
situ-
but very soon the extending lines of branch
much
Those who wish
railways will open up the country and destroy

of
its
to see
native and simple beauty.
Roumania while the " glamour "
turies of picturesque
fetill
lingers,
of past cen-
costume and antique usages
must not long delay their
visit.
The usual method of travelling, after leaving the

railway station, is, as we have already mentioned, a
carriage drawn by four horses harnessed abreast.
214
Saddle horses
may
doubtless be procured, but ladies
should in that case take their
own
The
saddles.
car-
riages are of all sorts, generally light four-wheeled
hooded
with
chaises,
sufficient
room
a small movable seat in front, but this
seat is usually ill-placed
excursions
and
on a
The
it is
and fatiguing.
On some
necessary to employ bullock waggons,
very customary to descend the river Bist-
it is
ritza
two persons,
A third traveller
with a servant beside the driver.
may occupy
for
raft.
carriages cost
from 17 francs to 20 francs
a day, with a present to the driver.
An
arrange-
ment may be made when the carriage is engaged

for several days.
The driver is supposed to feed
his
own
horses.
It
was estimated by our party of
three that three francs a day for each person produced
what might be considered
in those parts as a quite
satisfactory present to the monastic charities.

is
It
not usual to exceed the term of the third day.
Most of the native
excursionists,
and they are nu-
merous, come on the Saturday to spend the Sunday
with their relations and friends in the monastery,
and take their departure on the Monday.
For a
lengthened stay, furnished cottages in the precincts

of some of the monasteries
may be
rented at a very
low charge.
Two
or three
ladies
travelling alone,
with
thoroughly trustworthy servant as interpreter,
may
visit all parts of the
215
country with perfect ease and
The climate among the mountains
safety.
lightfully cool,
is
and waterproof coverings are
de-
indis-
pensable.
The currency
same
as the
is
very easily mastered, being the
French decimal system
gold twenty-
franc pieces, francs, and bani.
The
entire cost of one month's travelling divided
amongst three persons amounted
for each person to
about 16.
During
were
and more than a week was spent
visited,
this
time eleven monasteries

in
hotels at Bucharest, Jassy, Folticheni, Baltateshti,
Curtea d'Aghish, and Piatra.
When
is an object it may be useful to remark

"
that the
Orient Express " reaches Bucharest in
time
three days, having sleeping carriages and an excellent " restaurant " in
fares
the train.
All railway
may be easily
may be roughly
between London and Bucharest
ascertained.
Those in Roumania
estimated at two francs an hour, second class (very

comfortable carriages) and the ordinary train
francs an hour the " accel^re," or fast train.
three
XYI.
NO.
ADAM, JASSY.
IT.
From Bucharest to Berlad. Jewish Coaclim en. A "Fool-woman."

Monastery of Adam. The " Fundarik." ^The Maica. The
Maica Staritza. The Call to Service by the " Bar and
Interior of the Church and Costume of the Nuns.

Church Ornaments. Comfortable Homes of the Maicas,
their Confectionery, their Industry, and their Dress. The
New Monastic Regulations. In the Staritza's Garden. The
Procession and the Prayers for Rain. A worthy Lady
Superior. An Early Drive. An inevitable "Difficulty."
Soothing Scenery. At Jassy. Great Jewish Population.
Mallet."
Beautiful Old Church, Trei Sfetitili. St. Nicholas.
We
left
Bucharest
in
June,
train, losing nothing, as the
tion
is flat
and uninteresting.
by a night
1884,
country in this direc-
In the course of the
night we change at Marachesti and at Tekutch, to

arrive at Berlad at eight o'clock.
We
had picked
up, at one of the stations, the interpreter, whose services
were kindly lent by a
friend,
standing that his care of us should in

fere
on the underno way inter-
with the business for which he usually travels
The aim
217
of
our wanderings
being, not the highways, but the
byways of Rou-
in these
provinces.
The
mania, an interpreter was indispensable.
worn out
enthusiasm had we been
all travelling
own unaided
to our
bar-
alone haTe
gaining with Jewish coachmen would
resources,
remember with gratitude
this
and we
left
shall always
worthy man's exer-
tions on our behalf ; but I regret to say that in the
hurry of progress we
general
had irreverently
shortened his name, Barnescu, to Bar, and as such
he has since remained in
We
my
notes and memories.
leave the railway at Berlad, the end of an
eastward branch from the main line running north-
ward through Moldavia, and, passing

shabby
little station,
a lively contest between all

of
the
and dilapidated barouches
the cranky chaises
Rattling up to the centre of
waiting to be hired.
interest,
each shambling carriage adds
of dust
and vociferous
made with
across
made the centre of

the tattered Jew drivers
are quickly
offers, until
its
proportion
an agreement
is
a crafty-looking coachman, the owner of
the most roomy vehicle
disputing, feints to drive
and further
been
settled.
four
little
but
it is
not without
away with
parleys, that the
sum
much
disdain, return,
of 25 francs has
It is a shabby old carriage, with its
horses
harnessed
abreast
seeing the baggage strapped up, or
wherever there
is
but,
after
hung about
we enter
a convenient projection,
218
with a
it
Not
of relief that the clamour
sigli
at all
Our Jew, having driven on
five minutes, deposits
is
over.
for about
us at the door of a small inn,
where some refreshment may be obtained.
It is set
out in a rustic parlour, pretty enough with
its
row
of bright geraniums in the little windows, but pre-
sently poor
Bar
The
having secured his victims, now demands
driver,
arrives with a troubled countenance.
He
35 francs to continue the journey.
has been
by another of his race more crafty than himThey make a great show of unstrapping the
luUage to deposit it in the muddy road. The other
joined
self.
vehicles have all disappeared, so there

it
we must bend
to the inevitable
no help
is
make
for
a fresh
bargain and start again with the hope of reaching
This exasperating bar-
our destination in peace.
gaining and the bad faith of the Jewish coachmen
was the only
infliction in
our happy journey, and
they were repeated more or

to
less
every time we had
engage a fresh carriage.
The Jews
evil,
the
called.
**
in
Roumania
are a great
and
serious
leprosy " of the country, as they are often
Their injurious influence
peasantry, whose land
by
is
most
felt
by the
slow, but sure, degrees
they get into their power by means of mortgages
and bad debts, luring them

of vice and degradation.
Roumania
is
to drink
Almost
and every
all
sort
the trade of
in the hands of the Jews, and, although
the Government
is
doing
evil, it is difficult to
219
utmost to modify the
its
overcome a subtle power that
has been growing for centuries.
Our coachman, an expert

cal
driver,
was
also a typi-
specimen of the race in these parts, dressed in
a long greasy black gaberdine, with a tall hat, and

straggling ringlets on either side of his crafty face.
The road
after leaving the outskirts of Berlad
nothing to recommend
had
except an abundance of
it
We noticed with pity several
beautiful wild flowers.
great herds of cattle, pent in open enclosures on the
bare hillside, utterly without shelter from the burn-
ing sun.
More than half-way

under the shade of the
that
we have met with
our destination,
to
first
;
it
is
hay has
also
spreading plane-tree
cart filled with
paused at the same spot
under the charge of a
stop
overshadows a swing-
well for watering the horses.

trusses of
we
soldier,
and
is
it
returning
from conveying what our worthy Bar calls a " foolwoman " to the hospital for lunatics in the Monastery of
Adam, which
place
is
reached after a drive
of three hours and a half, the latter part over a more
undulated country, with pretty patches of woodland

scenery.
child holds open the gate of the rude
enclosure of a poor-looking village,
turning to the
left,
and the
carriage,
climbs the summit of the hill on
which the monastery
is situated.
An
arched gate-
220
way under a massive tower leads to a large quadrangle. As in most similar establishments, the princhurch occupies the centre
cipal
lings surround
it
on three
the monastic dwel-
and on the fourth,
sides,
adjoining the entrance tower,
we
darik," or guest-house, for the
find
the
"fun-
reception of tra-
vellers.
It looks very clean
and very pretty, with tiny
gardens on either side of the short flight of steps

leading to the broad verandah that runs round three
sides of the building, the projecting roof supported
on white columns.
The monastic
cottages have also
their verandahs, their white columns,
garden
We
while
plots,
see lace curtains
and their
little
some are much ornamented.
and bright flowers
through
the open windows handsome rugs, photographs, and
many
little
adornments supposed to be inconsistent
with severe monastic rules
who
but these good ladies,
are all long past their youth, are not at all
The community reminded one strongly

*'
at Ghent.
Men, principally
peasants coming on business, walk about freely in
cloistered.
of the " Beguinage
the enclosure
and several of the " maicas " inhabit
cottages outside the quadrangle,
but within the
outer boundary wall.
We have
sent no notice of our approach
we have
simply driven through the archway and stopped

near the door of the fundarik
but a kindly re-
221
ception seemed quite a matter of course, and the
Maica Fundaria comes forward beaming a welcome

"
quickly instals us in the best rooms, brings " dulces
and
coffee,
and,
not long
dinner in another apartment
afterwards,
;
up
serves
part of this consists
of curds and cream.
Our
inka,
**
cheerful, obliging hostess,
was baptised
religious life "
name.
it
as Caliope.
is
now called KatOn entering the
customary to take another
This, our maica for the
time being,
brisk, energetic old lady, very anxious to
comfortable.
is
make us
She has a barefooted servant, and
they bustle about, bringing in great heaps of padded

quilts
and pillows, which are quickly spread on
the broad divans;
and the very clean, comfortable
beds are most welcome after the fatiguing journey
from Bucharest.
"Buon^
Before, however, wishing us the
nocte," she carries into the
room a large
tray of dulces and fresh water for our solace during

the night.
Our
first visit
was paid
to the
Maica
Staritza, the
Superior of the monastery, the Reverend Mother
Xenia Manou, a very small, elderly
lady, related to
the Stourdza and Mourousi families, a most gentle,
winning, and ladylike person, looking delicate and

fragile,
but with a calm dignity of manner that
is
remarkable, considering the seclusion in which her

life
has been passed
for she
was brought
to the
SKETCHES OF EASTERN LIFE AND SCENERr.
222
monastery when
led
up
is all
flat.
There
the
She
infant.
The dwelling
by a small garden.
to
on one
more than an
little
very pretty, comfortably furnished rooms,
lives in
is
the call to afternoon service in the church
bar struck by the mallet.
penetrating as a
plicity to
bell,
and seems
The sound
as
is
in its quaint sim-
harmonise with the rustic-looking cottages
of the enclosure.
The
interior of
the church
is
handsome, and the screen gorgeous; but the heat,

increased
by many
tapers,
standing very exhaustive.

officiating,
was
stifling,
One
and the long
or two priests were
but the maica and two of her ladies took
the Psalms or lessons pro-
some part in the service

bably.
The costume
of the nuns on these occasions
dignified and graceful
over the usual dress of brown serge;

plaited folds
it
falls
in
from the shoulders, and being very
long, the effect
is
or velvet, according
One end
Round
exceedingly good.
head they drape a thin black
wearer.
is
a long black cloak worn
veil over a
circumstances of the
to the
of the veil
the
cap of serge
is
thrown over the
left
shoulder.
The
service appeared to consist of alternations of
chanting and intoned reading.

'*
The
late arrival, the
fool-woman," was there, looking not at
all
"fool,"
but immensely profuse in bowings, crossings, and
223
prostrations, afterwards kissing all the faces,
and
feet of all the pictures
herself incessantly
hands
round the screen, crossing
and having utterly exhausted
these aids to devotion (an arduous undertaking), she
suddenly, with a defiant
air,
marched out of the
church.
We were
shown the vestments and church orna-
ments in a chamber behind the sanctuary

nificent cross in
wrought gold
set
mag-
with jewels, several
splendid vestments embroidered in gold and brilliant colours,
two mitres, and some large bands of
velvet covered with ofierings of jewellery, bracelets,

necklaces, rings, for the
adornment of the priestly
vestments on occasions of great ceremony.

After this rather wearying exhibition
for a
round of
visits
we went
amongst the maicas, beginning
with a very bright, energetic lady, the Maica Yustina Fil^bîu, one of the heads of the community.
I think she
is
the Maica Economa, treasurer and
superintendent of the financial and worldly interests.
Up some
steps,
and crossing the verandah, you
enter a very neat and well-arranged dwelling.

either side of a little entry,
On
which ends in a bright
garden and orchard, you find the drawingroom and dining-room, with two good rooms at back
vista of
behind these again a kitchen with several outhouses,
and a room where Maica Yustina's hand-loom
A piece of brown
cloth
is
is set
up.
in course of manufacture.
224
The
ladies in
Houmanian convents
are celebrated
for their confectionery, particularly in the matter of
dulces, the sweetmeats to be taken before the glass
of water
and the cup of
custom
and Maica Yustina's sweets were in no wise
coffee, a
universal Eastern
behind the monastic reputation. Most of the
articles
worn by herself or decorating her rooms were also

the work of her industrious hands the long black
:
veil,
of the finest and softest grenadine
sleeved cloth pelisse, her usual attire
bright-coloured
carpet,
as
and
the widestrips of
well as the handsome
covering thrown over the divan.

ladies rear silkworms,
some
Many
spin, weave,
of these
and work up
the material.
The next
cottage under the verandah belongs to a
very attractive and particularly sprightly maica,

Natalia Yralui.
She
is
rich
and wears a handsome
velvet cloak over the serge dress.

nastic toque
veil
is also
Her round mo-
draping her head and shoulders
becoming
The elegant
of black velvet.
to the beautiful
is
wonderfully
complexion and bright
dark eyes of this lady, whose dwelling
is
furnished
with lace curtains to the windows and rich

the soft divans.
The
floor is
stuffs
on
handsomely carpeted,
the glasses for water beautifully cut, the spoons for

the " dulces
side-tables
elegant
in heavy wrought silver.

One or two
and " etageres " display, amongst other
'*
trifles,
a large collection of photographs.
225
Considering that these ladies can obtain permission
and friends
to visit their relatives
in the various
monasteries and convents almost as often as their
means
will allow of the expenditure, one
clude that conventual
in
life
must con-
Roumania
is
not an
existence very hard to endure.
One
of the sweets offered with the water in this
house was of a rather
uncommon
with vanilla
sort
delicious
unformed walnuts flavoured
preserve of very small,
elsewhere
we found
pieces of angelica
cut like large nuts and floating in syrup.
Our sprightly
for the
entertainer, after giving the recipe
walnut " dulce "
we blundered through
the
explanation by the help of Maica Yustina's few
words of French
brings
out for admiration some
hanks of silk of her rearing and spinning, a most exquisitely delicate work, intended for a grenadine veil.
Each of
these ladies has a servant received into
convent on this condition
the
them 148
francs a year
the community at
were
Adam,
received as very
known no
other
life,
came
into force in
fresh
member under
the State allows
the richer
own
the community have their
members
property.
of
Most of
as in similar monasteries,
little
children,
and have
but since the new regulations
1864
it is
forbidden to accept any
forty years of age
men must
be sixty before they can take the monastic vows.
These rules tend, of course,

VOL.
II.
to the rapid decrease,
226
and eventual extinction, of monastic
life
througli-
out Eoumania.
There are
houses in the quadrangle at
fifteen
The community counts about one hundred and fifty women,
Adam, comprising a
village school.
both those in the enclosure and in the surrounding

cottages.
After the conclusion of our
visits,
the energetic
Yustina, with one of her companions, conduct us to

the Staritza*s garden on the slope of the
hill,
somewhat wild and neglected domain, where we
a
sit
on a bench overlooking the neighbouring tree-clad

heights besprinkled with cottages, and are amused
by
their reminiscences of
an English family from
Galatz that spent some time (fifteen or twenty years

ago) in this peaceful retreat, seeking relief from the
Lower Danube. The

member of
little
party,
this
and asked after them by name or
by description, which I clearly recognised. This
was almost the solitary instance in which we could
discover any trace of the passage of English travel-
intolerable sultriness of the
maicas had a vivid recollection of every
lers in the monasteries
during a
five- weeks'
fairly claim for
and places that we visited
sojourn in Moldavia
our
little
party that
it
and I may
should be
regarded in the light of a modest pioneering enterprise.
The
bell,
or the bar, was sounding at intervals
Early on Sunday morning
throughout the night.

all
the bells
227
seemed jangling together, and presently
a procession was seen to issue from the church to
pray in the
(N.B.
fields for rain, that
The
downpour
clouds were
promising a convenient
The procession wound

nun carrying a long wooden
any moment.)
at
First a
over the grass.

bar,
was much needed.
which she
strikes with
a mallet in a jaunty
kind of measure, bells ringing

the tower above the gateway
all
the time from
then follow strong
maicas or soras, some carrying banners, others the

principal pictures from the church.
Five priests
head the procession of a large body of nuns and a

following of villagers.
They
are absent for an hour,
holding a service on one of the grassy slopes, and

the return
heralded by a delirious jangle of bells
is
the " bar " more frolicsome than ever.
There
is
great
jubilation, for after a short delay the thunder-clouds
resolve into a
effective?
heavy
But the
prevented our
visit
Was
rain.
not the procession
rain, otherwise
to the
so
beneficial,
lunatic asylum
under
charge of the monastery, a circumstance much to be

regretted.
Towards evening we make the

to the
Lady
visit
of farewell
Superior, the Maica Staritza,
who has
taken great pains to collect information about our

farther route, especially
difficult
recommending the rather
ascent to the mountain retreat of Siklu.
228
We
We
eventually visited this place.
had known
these kind " religieuses " for two days only, but I
think there was a mutual friendliness, and we

feel sure,
experienced a
Staritza kissed
human
pang
little
and blessed us
probability
we should
all,
of regret, as the
at parting, that in all
see that gentle face
no
more.
We
afterwards learnt that this estimable
had had many
difficulties to
woman
contend with in estab-
lishing a firm and wholesome discipline in place of
the more than relaxed practices which formerly prevailed in
Roumanian monasteries, but she has held
to her better principles,
in her charge
and the
little
community
may, perhaps, regret the days of her
wise government,
when
a brisk
and more worldly
ruler shall have succeeded to her staff of authority.
The drive next morning was
delightful
the earth
refreshed by the heavy rains of the previous night,
the abundant wild flowers sparkling with dew.

left
Adam
at four in the morning,
We
and reached the
railway station at Berlad in four hours.
Here there
was, of course, a "difficulty " with our driver.
The
Jew, although leaving us as early as eight in the
morning, wanted to extort payment for three whole
days.
grand altercation ensued, during which
our worthy Bar, in impotent wrath, stamps about

the
station
seizes
the
with sounding heels, and the driver

opportunity to purloin
box.
Bar
who
appeals to the policeman on duty,
What
affair of his.
Our
shortly expected.
summons the
a bargain
paid, the
says
The
it is
springs into a carriage,
The
in the town.
though highly unsatisfactory, but
and vehement expostulation on both

is
no
train is
energetic friend, Mrs. N.,
interpreter,
polite
is
after rapid
done
to be
to the " Mairie "
and dashes
oflScial
is
229
sides,
concluded for forty-eight francs, hastily
box
restored,
and our friend rushes up
to
the station as the passengers are getting into the

train.
to
It is a comfortable carriage,
smooth our
normal
state of placid
The scenery
meadow-land
The
ruffled feathers
is
as
we
and we need
and return
it
to our
enjoyment.
roll leisurely
pleasant, but
over the grassy
by no means exciting.
majestic Carpathians are far
away on our
left-
we must not just yet turn our steps in

that direction.
Our present aim is Jassy, the former
capital of Moldavia.
The line branches off at Pashkani, and it is not until ten o'clock at night that we
hand, and
reach the station, and, taking a small carriage, drive

to the Hotel de Paris.
have gone to bed.
After
Here everyone seemed
much ringing and
to
delay,
a sleepy waiter appeared, and consented to help
down the luggage, which he
deposited beside us in
a small room on the ground-floor, being apparently

in a hopeless state of bewilderment.
We
insist,
however, upon the presence of the landlady,
to
230
whether we can really remain in this
ascertain
sleepy place, and she at length appears, evidently
The
awakened.
just
attendants,
aroused to the
exigencies of the situation, show us rooms, bring
up
and in the end we find ourselves exceed-
tea,
Notwithstanding the unpromis-
ingly comfortable.
ing arrival,
Paris
is
we
clean
decided that the Hotel de
finally
the mistress, a
obliging,
the
excellent,
and the charges
service good,
Frenchwoman, very
the
But we are disappointed in

dition,
indeed, would
ham
most
Jassy, one of the
ancient cities in this part of Europe.
tribe migrated
most
restaurant
fairly reasonable.
Turkish tra-
ascribe its foundation to
from Turkestan in the time of Abra-
but Roumanian
any earthly being
belief, that persistently
ignores
more remarkable than Trajan,
as
prefers to date the origin of Jassy as due to that
celebrated conqueror.
At
the present day the principal streets are pain-
fully modern, well laid down in asphalt, with
shops on either
side,
and the
last Paris fashions dis-
There are several
played on the pavement.
fine
hotels,
the most imposing building of the sort being the
Hotel Trajano.
and cheap
riolet,
The
small, clean, one-horse cab-
going like the wind, for
pence) the " course."

or
street carriages are convenient
you get a
Two
from the railway the
fifty
centimes
(five-
To
Amongst
horses cost one franc.
fare is doubled.
231
the advantages of Jassy the ices must not be forgotten

first
fifty
centimes
is
the charge for one of the
quality, as large as three ordinary ball-room
ices.
At
Jassy literally swarms with Jews.
the time
of our passage there, forty families were leaving to
emigrate to America^ and the crowds thronging the

streets
towards the railway station to see them
off
appeared composed of nearly the entire population

of the city.
The
old church of Trei Sfetitili, or Tre'i lerahi
by Basile Lupo, Voivade

of Moldavia, by whom it was dedicated to St. John
Chrysostom, St. Gregory, and St. Basil. It is one
(the three saints),
was
built
of the most beautiful examples of church ornamentation in the East.
It
had been
set
on
fire
outside at
one time by the Turks to melt down the gold lavished
on the exquisite mouldings, and thirty years ago
was much shaken by an earthquake that caused a

great fissure in the wall of the apse.
It
has since
remained a partial ruin and unused, until the French-
man who
is
engaged on the renovation of Curtea
d'Arghish undertook to restore,
monument.
As
far
as
it
also, this beautiful
was possible to judge
through scaffolding, the work
is
being well and
tastefully carried out.
The whole
exterior of the church
is
covered with
a network of raised carvings, like a rich lace veil
232
thrown from top
to bottom, with mouldings, cornices,
and courses of the richest colours mingled with gold.
Many
beautiful fragments of twisted columns lie
The
around.
interior
is
not easily seen at present,
but large frescoes covered by canvas for preservation

is
still
remain, and above the entrance door there
row of exquisite heads of
vaulted recesses,
are
also,
Some low
saints.
framed by beautifully
It is almost worth the
twisted carvings in stone.
journey to Jassy to see this fine monument of Eastern

art.
Another ancient church,
St. Nicholas,
was
by Stephen the Great in the latter half of the
built
fifteenth
Side chapels were added at a later date,
century.
now being taken down, and the original

only will be preserved. Some carving also
but these are

building
on the outer wall
being carefully cleared of
is
The narthex
disfiguring whitewash.
is
unusually fine and
its
of this edifice
lofty.
longer stay would doubtless have shown us
some other objects of

for the mountains,
Jassy, with
and
its fine
interest,
felt
but I was yearning
tempted rather to neglect
terraced hills beyond the town
sparkling with villas set in their blooming gardens.
The wood
of Briazo, at the extremity of the plateau,
was the refuge of Codrean, a brigand hero

)f
Roumanian
ballad.
a haiduk
XYII.
EOUMANIAN MONASTERIES.
NO.
III.
SECU AND SIKLA.
The Monastery of Secu. The Parente Arfun Hospitality. Foundation of Secu. Nestor and
Metrofana. Fortifications. The former Importance of the
Monastery. The Refectory. " Mamah'ga."^-8tart for Sikla.
The Bullock Cart. Our Escort. Parente Samuel. Armed
Monks. Sylvan Glades. The Forest. A Wild Mountain
Track. Magnificent Scenery. An Uncomfortable Slope
towards the Precipice. The Monastery of Sikla. A Venerable Staritz. Origin of the Chapel of
Theodora.
Peaceful Scene. Parents Samuel's Curls. A Mountain
Storm. Suhastria.
Charming Drive.
darah.
St.
About a week
after leaving Jassy
we were
at Bal-
mineral bathing establishment in
teteshti, a small
Upper Moldavia, and, leaving one of our party
to
rest in the very comfortable hotel attached to the
baths,
two of
us,
with the interpreter, started for a
two days' excursion

Sikla
taking
to the monasteries of Secu
no luggage, we are able
to
and
en-
gage a good carriage and pair for seventeen francs

a day.
Our way
lies
along the road to Monastir Niamtz,
234
turning
tery.
left
before reaching the monas-
is beautiful
woodland scenery through
off to
It
which we pass
the
the usual
wealth of wild blossoms
enamelling the ground, sparkling and waving over

After a three hours' drive we
every sunlit hillock.
stop to rest and to water the horses at one of those
picturesque swing-wells so
common throughout E,ou-
mania, in as lovely a forest glade as can well be
imagined
the deep shadows of the noble oaks and
beeches relieved against the distant wooded heights

that glowed with every tender tint of blue and
purple.
On
through shady winding lanes
again,
across a few shallow streams
more
stony track,
then, entering on a
we endure
by
the fortified walls of Secu come into view,
We
drive
up
rough-headed
have visited this
its
metal-
where a
receives us, rather doubtfully
at first, for, as usual,
tion,
a peasant,
silver.
to the arched entrance,
monk
and
a few jolts,
presently passing a barrier held open
covered cupolas gleaming like
and
we
are the
spot, but, after
first
English who
an instant's inspec-
he appears to conclude that we are neither
nor dangerous
he leads the way up an outer
case, and, depositing
verandah, goes off to
evil
stair-
our small bags on the broad
summon
the Parente Arfun-
darah, or manager of the guest-house.
This
official
presently arrives, a very burly and altogether jovial
r
f
235
personage, with a moist twinkle in his eye, that
seemed
to appreciate the arrival of foreigners as a
source of eventual benefit.
We
are
shown
into the best
rooms the guest-
house contains, not by any means luxurious, but in

it is wisest to think that " variety is
travelling
charming," and while dinner

first
pay a
visit to
is
being prepared we
the Staritz, or Superior
a very
benevolent and very subdued old gentleman
then proceed to
visit
ing precincts.
As
and
the church and the surround-
in all
Roumanian
monasteries,
the church occupies the centre of the quadrangle

the guest-house adjoins the cloportnitza, or entrance-
gate (usually on the
left
hand), and the monastic
dwellings complete the rest of the enclosure

of the
monks
several
also inhabit detached cottages outside
the monastery proper, but within the outer encircling palisades.
We did
not ascertain the date of the foundation
of the monastery, but

earlier
it
was in the days of the
Hospodars that a great Government
official,
Nestor, coming with his wife Metrofana to bathe in
the fine mountain spring, finds here only a solitary

hermit.
erects the
The
sick
man
is
cured, and, in gratitude,
church and monastery, endowing
sixteen villages.
it
with
The reigning Hospodar comes
also to this wonderful spring, is greatly benefited,
and doubles the
gift of the
founder
thus Secu at
236
a very hand-
Nestor and Metrofana returned here
in their old
one time possessed thirty-two villages
some provision.
and die in the odour of
age, to pass their last days

sanctity.
time.
Metrofana survived her hushand for some
In the strong corner tower they show a room
where the foundress passed the three last years

life,
and where she
church, in which
They are both buried in the

them as
died.
is
a picture representing
In the
offering the building.
dark cavity painted in fresco
The
on either
choir,
a panel can be removed behind a
of Nestor
of her
stall,
side,
showing a
these are the tombs
and Metrofana.
fortifications of
Secu appear to have been at
much
one time very strong, but they have been
damaged and
During the troubles in
destroyed.
connection with the Greek
War
of
Independence
(1821), which, in the Principalities, resulted in the
overthrow of the Phanariot rule and the reinstal-
ment of the native

fiercely besieged
but
princes, this
it
The tower on the
until reduced
by famine.
hand, which
extremely strong,
loopholed,
at
is
monastery was
held out against the Turks
and capable of a stout
is
uninjured
resistance.
left
it is
It
was
Secu that Georgaki, an Albanian, one of the
chiefs of
the
movement organised by
Ypsilanti,
" after extraordinary feats of courage and daring,
blew himself up with the remnant of his wild
troop.'* *
237
This Georgaki was
the
concerned in
assassination of Vladimiresco.
very talkative old
monk
pointed out to us an
we
inscription let into the wall of a dry moat, but

failed
to
make
out
meaning
its
when information was not
Bar, as usual,
quite clear, opining that
our informant was a " fool-man."
Sû now
numbers sixty monks.
round the quadrangle, and

which
testifies to its
large
wander
great refectory,
vanished importance
only on festival days.

tables
visit the
We
;
it is
used
room with two long
and heavy wooden benches; a gilded and
coloured pulpit projects from the wall at one end,

raised high above the tables, for
preacher or reader.
the use of the
The kitchen adjoining has an
immense vaulted-roofed chimney, with a gigantic

cauldron for making the universal national dish
the
"mamaliga;" but
lected, as if the
it all
looked poor and neg-
monastery had seen better days, and
as if the thirty-two villages were undoubtedly a
memory of a distant past.

Our own maraaliga is smoking on the board,
and we are summoned up-stairs by Parente Samuel.
The dinner is very good, considering the limited
resources
of
the
establishment;
throughout Roumania
fowls well cooked, the
the bread
exquisitely delicate,
mamaliga
XJbiciui.
soft.
as
the
It id cus-
238
tomary
is
to serve this
stiff
on a platter, and to cut
porridge of maize-flour
with a string.
it
There
a certain art even in this simple preparation, and
not everyone
it is
mamaliga
who can
succeed in
making the
Layers of new cheese are sometimes
soft.
introduced into this maize pudding.
The burly
old gentleman (I think he was Parente
Seraphim) had certainly superintended our repast,

if
not actually cooked
it,
for
he came up heated and
beaming, evidently expecting the compliments which

heartily greeted his exertions.
After dinner
our
coffee,
much
we
sit
on the broad verandah
as possible of the history of the place, given
through our interpreter.

also
to sip
while endeavouring to understand as
well-kept
through several
The Parente showed us

Looking back
- book.
find only Roumanian
visitors'
years,
names, with two exceptions
French lady and
gentleman who had visited Secu a fortnight previously,
and one other Frenchman several years
before.
They have already told

sion to Sikla
noon
it
us that the further excur-
would be impossible
for
that after-
would require three or four hours, and
to
pass the night in that solitary spot would be dangerous.
There are only three monks, and the sojourn of
strangers might tempt the brigands

rior has
but the Supe-
promised that on the morrow an ox-cart
ROUMANIAN MONASTEEIES.
shall
be ready early, and that he will give us two
monks, mounted and armed, as an
On
the following day
freshness of a
still
239
morning
we
escort.
leave Secu in the early
on a
in July, to reach Sikla,
higher summit of the Carpathians.
On the wide
burnt-up plains bordering the Danube, the heat at

Here, the fresh mountain
this season is intense.
breezes, the luxuriant pastures, the
heavy dew,
as
we
brush through the tangled branches of the almost
unbroken
are
forest,
wonderfully refreshing and
invigorating.
Our
little
party and escort
is
thus composed
two
ladies seated in a long
narrow cart of wooden
jointed planks, which
drawn by four of the beau-
tiful
oxen of
this
is
country
cream-coloured,
wide-branching horns, and large
soft eyes.
dis-
with
The
cart
has a thick lining of hay raised at one end, where
it
with a carpet and then by a
soft
mattress, forming a delightful seat, although
the
is
covered,
sitter
first
must struggle against a tendency
in a heap in the centre of the
other end of the cart
whom
is
vehicle.
to subside
At
the
crouched Parente Samuel,
the Superior of S^cu has sent as our special
attendant.
There
is
a driver to each pair of oxen,
and we are further protected by two powerful -looking

monks, mounted and armed
he discharges
one with a
pistol,
which
at intervals for the intimidation of
possible brigands, the other with a large dagger-
240
knife thrust into his high boot and delicately shaded
These men are dressed
by a checked handkerchief.
in thick
brown
and wear brown

also
by a
serge, fastened at the waist

felt
cord,
Our interpreter,
brimless caps.
mounted, hovers round the party.
We roll along
very pleasantly at
flowering
tall
through rippling streamlets and up and
grasses,
down a
over mea-
first,
dows glowing with wild blossoms and
The movement
gentle bank or two.
of the
formed of loose planks that yield and sway with
cart,
every undulation, softened,

cushions,
is
delightful.
by the hay and
We enter the forest in high
Soon the branches,
spirits.
also,
so gently
waving in the
more open country, become obtrusive
as the path
narrows, but Parente Samuel carefully guides them
Gradually the surroundings take a wilder
away.
and more rugged
and we begin
look,
to ascend a road
deep ruts and dark marshy bogs
full of
sometimes,
a large grey boulder, over which the oxen drag the

cart
it
strains
and shivers in every plank
then a
deep hole into which we plunge, while the drivers
goad or encourage the oxen for the reascending

Parente Samuel has leapt out some time
effort.
before
he hangs on
to the
upper side of the cart
whenever the wheels appear too near the edge of the

track.
Our mounted
escort has separated
one rides
in front carefully watching the steps of the oxen and
the passage of the front wheels, while the other as
movement
carefully watches the
shout directions to the drivers
241
They
in the rear.
the drivers scream
at the oxen.
The scenery is wildly grand.

birch,
then
and oak tower above us
firs
trunks
fallen,
and pine-trees only.
some with
Gigantic lime-trees,
to
an amazing height
On every side immense
their spreading branches
and must decay
as they
lie,
^have
half-buried in
One
grey mosses and hoary beard-like lichens.
monarch
had stretched
of the forest
length across the track

to
remove
More
it
it
its
has been sawn through,
was impossible.
fearful dips
and agonized jerks upwards, as
the oxen strain every nerve and muscle.
mountain
splendid
falls
away
Now
in a steep precipice on the
and amidst boulders,
the
left,
rocks, mudholes, quagmires,
tangled branches, and fallen trunks,
we go
slowly on,
ever and again with a tendency to overhang the

for the
precipice,
track slopes gently towards the
outer edge, and the
sodden leaves.
California
shirts.
way
is
slippery with fallen
and
seems like some forest- clearing in
the drivers are not unlike squatters in
broad
their
It
The
slouch
and linen wide-sleeved
hats
directing
'*
fathers "
still
one in front,
one in the rear, watch more carefully now, for we

have reached the worst ** bit " of the road a short
but
very steep ascent,
with that
slope towards the precipice.

VOL.
II.
uncomfortable
More screaming of the
242
drivers,
more straining
efforts of the
goaded beasts;
hurried orders, a sickening feeling that a false move,
down
a broken tire-pin, might send us hopelessly

into that measureless abyss
and we are safe
There
more bogs, more boulders, more turnings and

windings, and suppressed terrors, but Parente
are
Samuel has quietly resumed

and we know that danger
is
Bar, to reassure us, relates
and
ladies,
his place
amid the hay,
over until our return.
how
a party of Boyards
some time before, were on their way
Sikla in a cart
drawn by
point a tire-pin broke
six oxen.
At
this
to
same
the cart was gently slipping
to the verge of the descent,
when one
of the drivers
from the convent, an immensely powerful young
man, stopped the movement with his shoulder

few seconds, while the
selves out
territied
on the opposite
side.
for a
party threw themIt
was comfortable
to feel the present safety, but not pleasant to reflect
that
it
was necessary
to return
by the way we had
come, and that the same slight accident might hap-
pen without the help of the Samsonian shoulder.
At length the
fired off to
rustic barrier is passed, a pistol is
announce the approach of guests, and on
a grassy plateau in the midst of the forest, stands the
poor
little
monastery of Sikla.
A mild-looking
''
father,"
who proved to
Economo, and Parente Arfundarah

forward to greet
us,
all
be Staritz,
in one,
came
while a pale and rather tattered
243
neophyte helped in releasing the wearied oxen and

unloading the
cart.
They are three in this dreary solitude, besides a

few young boys attending to the cattle these are all
;
He
brothers and the nephews of the Staritz.
kindly old man, not in the
venerable and
fluttered
by the arrival of " European"
though the
he has ever seen.
first
He
is
leasf
ladies, al-
leads us to a
very shaky wooden balcony, where we find a rough

" He has,"
log table and some planks as benches.
he says, " nothing to
ofier us
good mountain
and pure water."
brings us a
little
his precautions,
'
air,
milk
but a kindly welcome,

Later,
he
but Parent^ Samuel has taken
and produces luncheon. They make
mamaliga " there is fresh cheese,

;
delicate bread,
and a bottle of Father Seraphim*s " eau de melisse,"

which, sipped incautiously, nearly takes away the
roof of
We
my
mouth.
wander on the
of Sikla
is
a poor
wooden planks
wood
building, entirely of grey
the roof also formed of thin strips of
laid closely
style of roofing
The church
hillside to sketch.
little
row upon row.
This
is
commou
The small
throughout the country.
monastery, containing three or four apparently unfurnished rooms above the rude cowsheds
a covered
fountain, one or two barns, and a strong log fence
occupy the whole of the grassy clearing in the
On
forest.
the right, between the richly clothed mountain
244
peaks, you see the blue vapoury outline of the plain
On
towards Niamtz.
the
left
rises the bold
crag, draped with creepers
and mountain
overhangs the monastery
little
on
its
ash,
grey
which
summit are the
chapel of Saint Theodora and the Hermit's
Cave.
The
origin of the chapel dates from a very early
Who
time.
this saintly penitent
did not learn.
The name
of
may have
Theodora
is
been we
generally
associated in Byzantine history with records of vice
and crime
at length,
and retired to
but this recluse seems to have repented

this wild
and beautiful sum-
mit of the Carpathians to end her days in sanctity
and
solitude.
She lived in a natural cavern, and
many
peaceful shelter.
cano,
after her death
hermits in succession availed themselves of
One day a
its
certain Joanitzo Pash-
and one of the Cantacuzene family, wandering
over the forest in search of game, came upon the

rustic hermitage, and, struck
situation,
which
is
with the beauty of the
they caused to be built the tiny chapel,

so small that
it
can only accommodate ten
persons.
Whilst waiting
to the
for the party,
summit of the
who have gone up
crag, I sit in the calm shade
of the church-porch and speculate on the extraor-
dinary strength of the enclosure and

insufficiency as a protection.
The
its
perfect
fences in these
made
forest districts are
as
it
245
of entire logs of pine
were together with alternate angles
scarcely high
enough
asked.
"Do
robbers ever come here
is
is
nothing
" was
left to
take
a few years ago, carried off every portable
thing, and destroyed the
All
the
sort of stairway for
" Not now, there
they came
they are
to be a defence against wolves,
and would form a nice

brigands.
woven
rest.'*
very peaceful now.
There
is
the gentle
dripping of the fountain close at hand, a
little
farther off our oxen are reposing on the soft grass,
and Parente Samuel,

employs the
sitting
on a shaft of the
soft leisure of the afternoon in
his beautiful raven curls.
cart,
combing
They are a rare adornment
and, probably, the secret pride and happiness of his

sad, colourless, uneventful
life,
for this Parente
one of the saddest-looking of men.
seem impossible
to that
is
smile would
woe-begone countenance,
but he has undoubtedly beautiful curls, hanging
round from beneath the brown

black as
jet, soft
and glossy as
felt cap.
satin,
They
are
and there must
be an intense hidden satisfaction in the possession of

the shining ringlets, for (to judge by appearances)
this care of
them
is
an almost unprecedented ex-
perience in the conventual life of
On
for
Roumanian monks.
the return of the party, whose voices I have
some time heard echoing above,
good Staritz has picked
for
I find that the
my benefit
a large bunch
246
of wild strawberries
and
leave,
and
bilberries
but
time to
it is
after looking into the cburch,
which can
be seen at a glance and contains nothing remarkable,
we make
which he
a small present to the

is
very grateful.
the church register, that

their prayers,
good old man, for
He writes our names in

we may be remembered in
and a merry peal of
bells (an
unusual
compliment) echoes through the forest as our oxen

once more draw us into
its
wild and tangled shades.
From the monastery of Agapia there is a way to

Sikla much shorter than that from Secu, but it is a
rough and probably
difficult horse-track.
Our road
required about three hours.
In descending, two oxen only were used, the others

following, while one driver, with a stout pole, locked
Sometimes a short dip
the hind wheels of the cart.
would be
so steep
that only the tails and hind-
The sudden
quarters of the beasts would be visible.

effort
and scramble up the opposite bank just saved
us from falling over them.
The worst
is
past.
We
are once
more on
level
ground and brushing through the trailing branches.
Our
team,
complete
again,
few heavy drops begin

the leaves.
dragging us as
to force their
way through
storm, long threatening, has burst
then a steadier downpour.

tically,
are
road will permit, when a
briskly as the tortuous
The thunder
rolls
majes-
echoing from every mountain peak, nearer
ROUMANIAN M0NA8TERIRS.
and nearer, and the
are not far from the
sort of
247
Happily we
rain, a torrent.
little
" chapel of ease
" skite
**
of Sohastria
depending on Secu.
'*
We
turn in that direction, and our team breaks into a
we
splendid gallop as
tear over a broad
meadow
and arrive in grand
style at the enclosing fence.
There
This
is
no gateway.
logs are removed and
down another
is
easily
remedied
we dash through
division), to
some
(crushing
remain for some time
under the archway waiting for a sign of welcome

from the inhabitants.
The
place
is
seven monks, but they are apparently

the fields or in the forest, and
seat to wait
may
we
inhabited by
all
absent in
leave our moist
on the covered balcony until the storm
pass.
There
freshly
is
mown hay on
the greensward
around the church, and great trusses of sweet-smelling
hay
piled on a distant colonnade for shelter.
All these the oxen and the horses proceed to de-
molish with great
relish.
The injury
is
not serious,
and we would gladly have compensated any one
coming forward with the customary welcome, but

the absence of the usual cup of
the solitary old man,
who
coflfee
showed that
at length flitted across the
shadows in the background, preferred. to ignore our

presence, so there
was no remedy, and we took the
opportunity to learn the names of our beautiful Mol-
davian oxen
Douman, Pluvan,
Yello,
and Tchokolan.
248
After an hour's stay,
we
jolted comfortably back
to Secu, intending to leave again immediately
but
Parente Seraphim's hospitality could not be neglected.
very comfortable dinner had been provided,
must be
visit
it
eaten, the coffee taken reposedly, a farewell
paid to the Superior, and, above
all,
the grati-
fications distributed.
Before leaving, our beaming entertainer contrived

to sell
me, for two francs, an old wooden rosary
which would have been dear
must
sacrifice
rary
home where, without
at
two
piastres; but
one
something for the good of the tempocharge, the stranger as
well as the native receives shelter, a kindly welcome,
and entertainment
fishing trap
for three days.
was bought by
A beautiful little
my friend, which Parente
Seraphim claimed as of his own invention, and

have been in one of the great exhibitions
We purchased
and a
bottle
also
of
to
at Paris.
some very rough wooden spoons
what he
called
eau de melisse,
equally concocted by himself.

It
was not until the sun was throwing long
shadows across the mountains that we
finally
from the
The drive was
fortress
delightful,
monastery of Secu.
the horses
fresh,
the
road
turned
excellent.
Passing the outskirts of Niamtz, we followed the
high road leading south, and reached Balteteshti

late in the evening.
XVIII.
NO. IV.
DURAU,
TCHAKLAU, THE BISTRITZA.
Picturesque Environs. The Monastery of Bistritza.

of Alexander the Good. A Beautiful Church.
Bisericanu. Pingaraciora. Village of Hangii. Moldavian
Peasantry. Costume. Difficult Mountain Track. The Monastery of Durau. A Tradition of Tourists. From the Little
Balcony. Parente Hilarion and the Neophyte. Transylvanian Peasants. Eidelweis. A Little Miser. Floats along
the Troughs. Repchiuni. Leisurely Construction of the
Obstructions. Lowering Clouds. The Master Raftsman. Rain and Rapids. Skilful Guidance. The Eddies.
A Sad Landing. A Compassionate Traveller. At Piatra.
Maritza. Zeckler Harvesters. Homewards.
From
Piatra.
Tomb
liaft.
The
four
little
horses had heen tinkling their bells
and shaking their rope harness since three o'clock
in
the morning before the door of the Bistritza Hotel at

Piatra
they had been ordered for
hour precisely we are ready

of the restaurant had brought
five,
to start.
and
at that
The gar9on
up small cups of the
with fingers of bread, and Maritza
very weakest
cofiee,
helps to stow
away our
light travelling gear into the
shambling, disjointed sort of hooded chaise that
is
250
to
convey us partly up the ascent of
peak in this
some 8,000
district of the
feet
We rattle
Carpathians
tlie
highest
Tchaklau
ahove the sea-level.
down
the almost deserted street, cross-
ing the untidy market-place, and, passing round the

base of the old fire-tower, are quickly in the fresh,
cool
suburbs.
The breeze from the rapid
river
comes over gardens laden with the perfume of roses
and mignonette; the birds are
trilling joyously;
the bees issue from their hives under the broad
verandahs
as,
here and there, a peasant's cottage
gleams out like snow against

orchard and
leafy slopes,
its
background of
the invariable columns
supporting the deep-eaved roof, the walls of the
dwelling and the broad clay seat beside the door

looking as fresh as the last coat of whitewash could
make them, with the embellishment

marking the square
farther side of the river

tains rise
and
fall
of a blue band
of the tiny windows.
the Bistritzathe
On
the
moun-
with broad meadows and sunny
homesteads on the lower slopes
then thick forest
growth of oak and beech, and, finally, the pine-clad

summit.
Beyond
all this
the pale grey peaks and
crags of Tchaklau tower above the mountain range
and melt into the vapoury distance.

good, the expedition
is
The road
is
delightful.
Less than an hour's drive brings us to a shady

road sloping upwards on the right hand, and
we
see
251
the bright cupolas of the large monastery of Bistritza
We alight in
in a setting of forest-clad mountains.
the grassy precincts of the church, unwilling to dis-
turb the monastic inhabitants at this early hour
but our arrival
immediately known, and
is
it is
not
long before the Superior comes down to welcome the

unlooked-for guests, while an attendant
the tray of " dulces " and coffee.
The monastery
portant of those
of Bistritza
still
is
monk hands
one of the most im-
existing in Roumania.
It
founded by Alexander the Good (Alexandru
was
celti
Bunii), " Domnu,'* or Yoivade, of Moldavia in 1430.
His tomb, as well as that of his
first wife,
Domna
Ana, may be seen on the left-hand side of a large
and richly decorated ante-chapel.
The tomb
of a
son of Stephen the Great stands on the right of the

entrance.
The church of
Bistritza is very handsome, painted
and gilded throughout, even to the summit of the

cupolas
but this
stalls
the screen
is
relieved
and by the
is
a blaze of gold and colours,
by the rich brown of the carved

soft
tone
of
the
beautifully
sculptured doorways and finely carved arch of the
windows.
The Superior
of the convent
is
a good-looking
and very courteous man in the prime of

sylvan retreat is
place
is
much
life
his
by no means a seclusion, as the
visited
by Roumanians.
Its neigh-
252
bourhood
to Piatra
a busy, populous town
the fresb beauty of tbe scenery, render
it
and
a favourite
point for excursions and holiday-making.
Not
so the large
monastery that came into view
round the next spur of the mountains as we

Bistritza,
left
and turned once more into the high road.
It looked beautiful: the shining cupolas
and whitened
towers of the irregular building, like a cluster of
snowdrops in billowy masses of rich foliage

Bisericanu
is
prison, as is also another edifice
wooded height
fortress,
but
no longer a monastery, but a convict
on a neighbouring
turreted,
grey
once the monastery of Pingaraciora.
We
strong-looking,
passed a prisoner on the road, manacled, between
two
soldiers.
mania have
Yery many
since the
property in 1864
of the convents in
secularisation
been
Rou-
of nônastic
converted into hospitals,
prisons, or asylums.
We
continue our
way
clad mountains, on the
left,
on the right the

at
forest-
some distance below,
the river Bistritza, swirling and seething over some

slight rapids, along
which the
rafts are
shooting
with a sure and steady but rapid movement.
We
are to return to Piatra on one of these rafts, and are
not sorry to watch the skilful
way
in which they are
handled.
The road has been
fairly good, crossing the water
two or three times on good solid bridges, until we
reach the straggling village of
violent storm
never long
drives
inn.
It is also a " bakal's " shop,
us for shelter to a rough wayside
(including
sold
when a
Hangii,
absent in these mountain
passes
is
253
English
mustard), except the
and Colman's
starch
necessary of
first
The people would appear
where everything
to feed solely
life
bread.
on mamaliga,
with an abundance of rich milk.
Butter
known
salted cheese,
the only preparation of
and sometimes sweet curds.

eat meat, but they
frugal diet
women
rustic
environs,
us as
men
to
is
un-
I doubt if they ever
do very well on their
are strong and vigorous, the
upright and healthy-looking, taking more
than their
the
seem
it is
full
share in
all
heavy manual labour.
wedding was going on somewhere in the
and several peasants
we endeavoured
in gala dress
to sketch the scene
watched
from the
pillared platform in front of the " locanda "
some
low-roofed cottages, a wandering irregular fence, a
swing-well with
its
bold graceful curve, and the
grey peak of Tchaklau towering into the clouds as

a background.
Mrs.
bought of one of the
young women a complete costume,

drove a very successful bargain.
for
which she
It consisted of
a long linen garment embroidered about the throat
and sleeves
a large
stiff
apron, also embroidered,
and much adorned with spangles

colours, several strings of be^ds,
a girdle of
many
and a long
scarf-
254
wound about
veil that is
and becomingly.
There
the head very gracefully
much
is
less of
costume to
be met with in Moldavia than in Wallachia, where
Queen
the wise and patriotic example of the
en-
courages the retention of the national dress, which

is
one of the most beautiful in Europe, although
there
is
a hard struggle against the encroaching
influence of
The
French
rain clearing
fashions.
off,
we
start
once more on our
we
road to the secluded monastery of Durau, where
intend to pass the night and the folio wing day, Sunday.
Here begins the more
progress.
difficult p5i.rt
The well-made road ceased
at
of
our
Hangu,
to
give place to a rough, stony mountain track intersected
by innumerable streamlets
these
are
not
deep, but, as the driver seems uncertain of his road
and misty in
his
judgment
carrying the shaky
little
as to the proper fords,
carriage over impossible
boulders and across rotten planks, two of us jumped

out to lighten the strain for the weary
little horses.
They had been almost without food the whole day,

and became at length so weak that they stopped and
would have
slid
back at every
rise in the
necessitating on each occasion a rapid

nified descent into the
We now pass a large
mud.
saw- mill in
full activity,
which the freshly hewn planks are

the river in
ground,
and undig-
floated
wooden troughs, raised about a
from
down
foot
to
from
255
Sometimes a workman will take pas-
the ground.
sage on one of these planks, balancing with wonder-
and shooting out of sight
ful dexterity,
like light-
ning.
We leam
at the mill that the
half-an-hour's
assured that
distance, but it
we have not
convent
is
is
still
at
cheering to be
strayed in this beautiful
but interminable wilderness, and before long a rustic

barrier proclaims the entry of the monastic domains.
Here
respectability requires a dignified advance.
broad meadow
is
smooth and
flat
savage dogs, and we creep for the
hooded
nitza,
cabriolet, drive
The
the driver hints at
last
time into the old
solemnly under the cloport-
and stop in the grassy precincts of the church.
We have
been accompanied across the
meadow by
magnificent dog, not unlike a St. Bernard.
showing enmity, he
first
Far from
inspects the party with
anxious and careful inquiry, decides that
we
are in-
nocent and friendly, and ends by escorting us to the
door of a balconied dwelling where a venerable and

slightly astonished " padre "
come
us.
The greeting
is
comes forward
to wel-
kindly, calm, dignified, but
The Staritz
nil.
The monastery of Durau does
of other monasteries, draw any
the possible accommodation almost
explains the situation.

not, as in the case
allowance from the State for the entertainment of

strangers.
family,
It stands
on the property of the Stourdza
and having been long utterly neglected and
256
forgotten by the proprietor
owner of untold millions

is
reduced to
its
own
lately dead in Paris, the
the poor
community
little
resources for a bare subsistence.
Strangers rarely visit the place
foreigners
They have
tourists are legendary.
and
a tradition that
about five-and-twenty years ago a shooting party of
gentlemen from Galatz came here and climbed the
summit of Tchaklau. It happened that I was able

to identify two of these sportsmen, and, meeting
them the other day
in
London, they were interested
to learn that after this quarter of a century they
are
still
remembered in
convent of the
this distant
Carpathians, where no subsequent arrivals of our
countrymen have occurred
May we
tion.
of that little
men
to confuse the recollec-
dwell as pleasantly in the memories
group of kindly, simple-hearted old
The community numbers twenty monks, living

embowered
in the precincts and in detached cottages

in orchards.
They gave us
of their best, but
it
was needful
here to put in stern practice the wisest theory of a
genuine traveller
able inconvenience.
cured, no
cheese,
drite,
cheerful resignation to unavoid-
There was no bread
meat, no fowl
and a few eggs.
Our
host,
an archiman-
prepares the dinner, waits upon us at table
and
with the help of a neophyte

for
to be pro-
only mamaliga, milk,
company.
then
sits
with us
257
From the wooden verandah before our windows

we look upon scenery of mountain and primeval
forest, the majestic ruggedness of Tchaklau, now
shrouded in tossing vapours, now lighted with dazzling sunshine as
it falls
on the granite peaks, or on
the velvet sward carpeting the narrow gullies
be-
low, the encircling belt of sombre pine-forest, shut-
ting in the monastery as in an amphitheatre
then
the brighter tone of chestnut, beech, and oak breaks

into clearings of
meadow-land, across which
soft
rude fences wander, and so on to the peaceful oases

of the convent enclosure.
right,
It breaks
away on the
behind the deep-eaved cottages, where the
rush of unseen water rises from the leafy ravine.
On
the left of our verandah stands the inevitable
whitewashed church.
It
blot in the picture, but
is,
we
as
an
object, the only
try to forget
it
in the
charm of sylvan beauty around the humble

fountain in front
bell- tower
the
little
farther back
behind that, again, the cloportnitza.
On
either
side the monastic cottages with their broad verandahs,
some with the basement and the grey wooden

ters half
tall
smothered in pink and crimson
white heads of
lily
and
roses,
pilas-
with
trailing wreaths of
clematis ; all sweet odours that mingle with the scent
of
new-made hay from the grassy
Now
slopes in front.
and then a dark-robed figure wanders over the
grass; he goes, perhaps, to the church, or to
VOL.
II.
fill
258
" cofitza " at the ever-dripping fountain; they are
mostly very old and infirm.
Parente Hilarion, in
the next cottage to ours, has a distressing cough.
As we
sit
on his verandah and endeavour
in our sketch-books the

rest,
memory
to retain
of this calm sweet
he can be heard between his paroxysms
structing a
young neophyte
The boy, Georghi, having
nastic literature.
his lesson,
in the elements of
comes out
to stare at us,
in-
mo-
finished
and remains
calmly enough while we turn the pencils on him.
Soon
figures
after this our scene is
women.
animated by brighter
a dozen or so of Transylvanians,
They have
men and
crossed the border, very near
to this part, in search of harvesting
work
sleep one night in the monastery, go to
they will
mass in the
morning, and pursue their road over the lower spurs
There
of Tchaklau.
is little
difierence in dress to
distinguish these people from the Roumanians, but
the race
is
fairer
and blue eyes
man and
two of the women had light hair
coin to stand
one was exceedingly pretty.
his wife were persuaded

still
for a
by the promise of
few minutes, but they were
impatient to follow their friends,
who with bags slung

way across
over their shoulders were wending their
the grass, so the sketch was hastily finished, the coin

grasped, and the whole cheerful party disappeared
through the broad archway of the cloportnitza.
The next
day, Sunday, a time of perfect rest
at
by the
intervals the deep silence broken
the wooden bell-tower, or the
prayer
monk
259
more
bell
from
familiar call to
passing slowly round the church
wood with a
striking the long bar of
Then
mallet.
some worshippers gather from the cottages around,

adjusting their black veils before entering the sacred
There
edifice.
a poor old
is
with age and rheumatism
man
nearly bent double
another
who
may
himself as well as
for a
little pupil,
Some one had
lame
shrouds
be from the drenching rain,
heavy mountain shower
lowed by his
is
He
then the possessor of that fearful cough.
falling
is
he
is fol-
Georghi.
sent us in the
morning a splendid
lily
stuck in a piece of honeycomb.
was
this Parent^ Hilarion.
He
is
good Staritz of Sikla, who had
think
it
a cousin of the
sent,
by
us,
many
messages of friendly greeting.
We
had given up the attempt
to climb to the
rocky summit of Tchaklau, the highest peak in this

part of the Carpathians,
preter to go
but advised our inter-
up with a guide, both mounted,
for the great iron cross said to

it.
to search
have been erected on
Towards evening he came back, reporting the
way very
He had
difficult.
seen the iron cross, but
the return road was so steep and slippery that he
made the whole
of
it
on
foot.
have been
the view from the highest point, looking
a forest of needle-like crags,
is
told that
down upon
most remarkable.
260
Our envoy brought back witb him large tufts of

flowers, amongst them several specimens
moss and
of the eidelweis.
Whilst waiting for the ox-cart which

us away early on
inspect the
new
is
to take
Monday morning, we go up
to
building, intended as a guest-house,
over the arched gateway of the enclosure.
The
guests probably are almost entirely composed of the
peasants
work.
pacsing across the frontier in search of
The dwelling
consists of four rooms, very
solidly constructed of pine planking.
value here, and the labour
By
eight o'clock
is
Wood has little
supplied on the spot.
we have once again mounted

drawn by only two beasts.
presents of lilies, and have
into an ox-cart, this time
We
have received fresh
taken a regretful leave of our host, the Staritz, of
one or two of the poor old fathers, and of the beautiful dog,
who throughout our
his cordial,
though
strangers.
visit
has expressed
dignified, approval of the unusual
Our worthy
interpreter was so
much
impressed by the piety and charity of the Staritz

that he could hardly tear himself away,
and we saw
them, as the cart turned into the leafy
forest, ex-
changing the kiss of peace and of farewell.
Can
nothing be done to give this neglected community in

the heart of the Carpathians some small particle of
the glittering millions that the lord of these vast
forests could not carry
with him to his grave ?
The
cart jolts on, but not unpleasantly
than the weakly cabriolet of our
all sorts
of ruts
and
pitfalls
We follow the beautiful
little son, at first in
trees,
and
tall grasses
safer
heavy
and the cart can
without upsetting.
forest road, with its turns
and windings among thick

carpeting of
it is
arrival, for the
rains have swollen the streamlets,
stand
261
with the luxuriant
The
ferns.
driver's
pursuit of a refractory cow, gives
up the chase and devotes himself to opening the

barriers, for which eventually he receives a small
silver piece,
presumably
the first silver that
he has
ever seen, for after a look of astonishment, he sinks
upon the ground, in a

treasure from his
futile
attempt to secrete the
mamma, who
is
now
seen striding
The
over a hedge from a neighbouring cottage.

conflict is sharp
but short
the mother whips up the
infantine miser under one of her sturdy arms,
and
carries him, wildly struggling, to his home.
We
have passed the saw-mills, and the road
bounded on one
side
by the
raised trough
is
down
which the planks are rushing towards the river

Bistritza,
where the
wood thus conveyed

the Danube.
floats
are
made
Galatz.
Every now and then there
trough;
the planks
it is
is
sets
them again upon
their travels.
to
shipped at
a block in the
when hard
workman soon
accumulate, and,
pressed, tumble over, but a passing
and the
and thence
to the Sereth,
great proportion of
up,
262
Before reaching E-epchiuni we stop the
cart,
and
go up through a neglected orchard to inspect a halfruined building, which proves to be the " skite " of
Hanghu.
so rich
It has a
round tower, and in a country
in beautiful scenery the
remarkable.
situation
is
not
A peasant who had charge of the
place
He had
appa-
talked incessantly to our interpreter.
rently some interminable grievance to narrate, but,

I
am
sorry to say, his listener, not quite
making out
the wearisome complaint, expressed his usual senti-
ment
We
he was a " fool " man.
were further
informed that this place was the supposed refuge of
some heroine in one of Dumas' novels.
At 11.30 we
arrived at Repchiuni, where
missed our escort, and sat

to wait for the raft.
forester
who had
We
dis-
outside a rude hut
had previously met the
upon us
at Piatra
He came with
us to the
so kindly called
and planned out our route.

starting-place,
down
we
gave orders that everything should
be properly arranged, directed that his best raftsman

should go with
us,
and took a
polite leave, saying
that the construction of the raft would require an
hour, and that in about three hours from the time of

starting
We
we
should reach our destination.
wait tranquilly and patiently, but after a long
time we begin vaguely to perceive that the

not of the same mind as the master.
passed, yet there
is
An
men
are
hour has
scarcely any progress in our
come
First they
float.
two men are sent
263
to a standstill for wood,
and
some distant point up stream
to
they do not return, and our energetic friend, starting

across a broad
them
meadow
to discover the reason, finds
quietly seated on the brink of the river smok-
They start up and pretend
ing.
very hard to build.
float is
it
malities have to be
gone through
of the
wood
to be verified,
but the registrar

pedition
The clouds
we begin
We beguile the
It is very long,
loosely
we done
so,
sides,
much
of
and a very
us,
last
down
way
in
had
This platform should

is
no sun to
and we forego that embellishment,
though regretting the
float
our subsequent tribulation
have been roofed with boughs, but there
incommode
at
between
where natives would have crouched
might have been avoided.
At
time in
In the centre a broad platform had
pegs.
seat,
more
and worked
attached
been arranged with raised back and
deep
Another exofficial
are lowering ominously, and
by paddles
both ends
wooden
raft.
the consignment
the missing
to feel anxious.
examining the
for-
and a signature obtained,
not to be found.
search of
in
patience
is
our
and
announced that some
apparently ready,
is
still
all is finished
haste, but
When
At
loss of the picturesque effect.
we start, and
when something gives
past three o'clock
for about a mile,
the paddle serving as rudder.
We
are
pulled to shore, steadied by a heavy stone on the
264
rope,
and
lose another half-hour while the
leisurely repairing the mishap.

all
It
is
the
life
in the
first
neces-
After events threw some light on
sary of existence.
down the
these repeated hindrances to our progress

Bistritza,
are
fortunate that
is
three travellers are well acquainted with
East, where inexhaustible patience
men
and we have
since concluded that our
men
did not intend to reach Piatra that evening, but had
agreed between themselves to stop at a wayside hamlet,
where some great
Our
festivity
was going
on.
principal raftsman was, without doubt, ex-
Although quite a small young
ceedingly skilful.
man, he had wonderful muscular power in his tiny

bronze-coloured hands, and bare
He
a slender girl's.
feet,
and ankles like
The man
looked like a gipsy.
who worked the rudder was an unkempt, rough

being, who, our little
man
was not a " maestro "
(skilled raftsman).
Now
begins the
first
declared with contempt,
serious trouble in our otherIt was, to the day, one
wise prosperous journey.
month
since
we had
that our little expedition

a pioneering party
and we
started,
we might
had been
bright and successful
cease
in such torrents that

;
but no,
it
continues
we think
it
the rain, a disaster
in our exposed situation, begins steadily.
down
thankful
almost call
hitherto exceptionally
now
but
felt
it
it
It pours
must soon
continues for hours,
and two of us are drenched through and through.
We
sit
in pools of water
water eddies up over our
baggage
feet; our small
265
This heavy
soaking.
is
downpour streaming from the mountains on

sides has "
rapidity,
making
had expected.
we
it
much more
rious,
" rough " than
It is well to try to
are taking a pleasure trip
tritza,
(!)
bathed in evening sunlight.
even seen through the
remember that
glo-
It is very fine,
The mountains, grandly
rain.
to the water's edge, leave
a narrow gorge.
we
on the lovely Bis-
and that the scenery should have been
wooded
all
churned up " the river with wonderful
sometimes quite
There are windings innumerable,
and many rapids which increase in strength as we

advance, and the Bistritza
is
swollen by the wild
The
rushing waters of the Bicassu.

the appearance of a miniature
rapids have
boiling
sea
with
curling wavelets, hissing and seething round the

points of rock; they
float.
seem
to advance to
Suddenly the front
man
is
meet the
churning the
waves with a circular sweep of the long paddle. One

leg high in air, every nerve and tendon quivering,
the whole weight of the

is
thrown on
little, lithe,
to the pole, that
to snap with the
strain
instantly, the paddle
muscular body
bends and threatens
then a swirl round, and
immovable
and calm, swift
gliding onward.
Hours pass
of the river.
on,
and
still
Now we
we turn bend
after
bend
are running straight for a
266
great
buttress of
before our fiail raft

tossed
float
rock rising menacingly
black
the
and seething, round
current rushes,
swift
its
base
the point of the
almost touches the dark, jagged headland,
is
caught by the descending rush of foaming waters,
and sent quivering, but safe, almost into mid-stream.

Then more eddies, with the planks of the raft gleaming through the froth and foam.
In our course we had passed many smaller

stranded and more or less dilapidated
float in less skilful
some
and our
hands might well have met with
but at length our gipsy declares that
disaster,
we cannot reach
Piatra that night
landed at the nearest convenient spot.
we must be
Protest was
The day was fast sinking gloom was setdark and drear over the swollen river and the
useless.
tling
rafts
In sad
forest-clad mountains.
steered on to a
muddy
silence the raft is
bank, up which a forlorn and
bedraggled party climb and stumble to reach a small
hamlet on the high-road.
Here they
tell
we may perhaps
us that
get a con-
fortunate enough to capture
veyance into the town
if
a passing vehicle, and
we
enter meanwhile a cottage
of very questionable appearance to wait for this slen-
der chance.
It is
crowded with
soldiers in undress,
some peasants, and a group of pretty Moldavian

girls.
We
The
place reeks with
conclude
that
this
"raki" and smoke.
festive
gathering
has
267
been the real aim of our raftsmen throughout the

day.
small chaise comes rattling along, and stops for
a minute.
conveyance
Can we find place there ?

the owner sits behind
;
the small space remaining
make room
but he will
ladies;
It is a private
crowded with
is
one.
for
we must go together
We
or not at
remain in that uncanny drinking-house

thought
The owner
of.
coachman
his
of the
parcels,
are three
all,
is
yet to
not to be
little chaise,
with a
kindness that will be long remembered, compassionates our distress,
three should be.
and we crowd up
Happily the
not break down, and the
five
where
carriage does
wiry horse trots along
little
with his increased load as
frail
nothing unusual had
if
happened.
It
is
ten
we reach
o'clock before
fearfully limp
and
pectedly collapsed,
helpless condition.
am
Piatra, in a
had unex-
put rapidly to bed with hot
bricks to the feet, and the compassionate landlady
proceeds to energetic remedies
strong
vinegar to restore circuLition.

tiring vigour over all
my
friction with
She works with un-
various bruises until I
groan with agony, for one cannot get up and down

bullock-carts quite unscathed.
They
are all very
kind, however, and do their utmost for us, accord-
ing to their lights.
Not
least
among
the small trials of the succeeding
268
days of weakness was
tlie
band
infliction of a brass
in the garden of the restaurant belonging to the
There were times when
hotel.
it
" executed," with
short intervals, during the whole day and evening, the
" repertoire," decidedly limited
which are in themselves
chiefly native
airs,
beautiful, but this render-
ing was excruciating.
On
down the
we prepared to leave Piatra to seek medical
advice and rest among the comforts and civilisation
of Yienna, giving up with much regret the latter
the eighth day after our wet voyage
Bistritza
part of our scheme of travel.

to turn southwards
to visit
It
had been planned
the mineral baths of
Slanik and the great salt-mines of Okna, and so by

carriage to Krondstadt and Hermandstadt to visit
the Southern Carpathians, and reach the Austrian

capital
We
by the Danube.
left Piatra
good-will.
with
many mutual
The expenses
expressions of
of our stay in the Hotel
Bistritza were very moderate,
and we
felt
really
sorry to say good-bye to these worthy people, particularly to the household drudge, Maritza,
tears in her eyes as she looked after us
doorstep.
feet,
She generally pattered about with bare
and her usual
order
who had
from the
attire
might have been more
in
but a very gentle, loving heart beat beneath
that faded cotton jacket.
"We gave her our photo-
graphs in a group (done on the premises). ^'Tare
BOUMANIAN MONASTERIES.
bin^
bin^
tar^
molte fnimosi " she exclaimed

!
over and over again as
and
was slipped into her pocket,
it
I verily believe that the
remembrance as much
had
fee she
269
poor soul valued this
as the very substantial parting
so well earned
by her untiring and
cheerful service.
It
was an extremely
but otherwise fairly
dirty,
good, carriage that took us to
Romdn, the nearest

The country is
on the railway to Vienna.
station
undulating and well cultivated, but the beautiful
mountain peaks are fading in the distance, and the

wealth of wild flowers has diminished.
We
chiefly note the passage of large parties of
Zecklers,
winding along the road in their slow bul-
lock-carts,
women
in
search
of
work.
harvesting
The
are very fair, with masses of flaxen hair,
which the unmarried
girls arrange in the
tesque fashion, tying
it
most gro-
very high up, where
divided, twisted tightly round
some
stifi"
it
is
band, and
then forms two monstrous rings, standing as wide

out from the head as possible.
We
ing as
reach
we
Roman
after a drive of five hours, pay-
pass the barrier the toll that
the entrance of
all
time the coachman
Roumanian towns
is
from the horses* heads.
is
exacted at
at the
same
required to remove the bells
XIX.
IN CRETE.
NO.
In
CANEA AND
I.
ITS
ENVIRONS.
Canea. Rethymo. Brother Greronimo.

The Convent Parlour. An Improvised
Home. A Street Scene. Our Opposite Neighbour. The
Grocer's Shop. Cretan Costume. Funerals. Twelve
Lords of the Island. Ancient
o'clock. The former
Costumes. Raouf Pasha. Unusual Visitors. The Rhiza and
he Wbite Mountains. Aloes.
the
Harbour
of
Arrival at Canea.
One
bright
entered
tlie
May moming,
the
since,
harbour of Candia, on board a steamer
of the Austrian Lloyds
tween
a few years
massive
the anchor was cast be-
battlemented
walls
the
of
Venetian fortifications that formerly protected the

entrance of the port.
What
a picturesque scene
What
mingling of East and West does

ofier to the spectator
of
the
arsenal
this port of
the
vanished
Venetian galleys that once found

St.
Candia
Mark
its
ruins
glories
of
there;
shelter
boldly sculptured on
the wall of the great bastion seems
the dreamy East, with
singular
The immense vaulted
recall
while the Lion of
still
golden sunlight,
to
its
defy
palm-
IN CRETE.
271
here and there above the battlements
trees, seen
the turbans, the veils, the languor, the neglect, the
decay of
all
The
surrounding objects.
little
boats
make no
scattered over the blue waters of the port
choice between these contrasting claims, and elude
the question by
painting,
on either
side of
the
rudder, the lion of the past and the crescent of to-
day.
At the
cannon
foot of the great tower
the shore,
haK
some old bronze
Venetian occupation
relics of the
on
lie
buried in fallen stones and sand
few Turkish soldiers are seated on them, swinging
and munching their lumps of black bread
their feet
other idlers, grouped on a block of masonry that
has lain there for centuries, gaze vacantly at the

steamer
and
all
reflected
is
in water
of
the
deepest azure, that sends a joyous sparkling ripple

across the streak of sunlight.
The boat
that carries the weekly mails between
Syra and the Cretan

harbour a
city, the
(the
sufficient
coast,
Greek name of which
Great
Candia, a
Fortress)
name
which the Turks
remain in
does not
time to allow of visiting the
the
that
call
is
is
Megalo Kastron
Venetians
called
it
used also for the island,
Kirit,
and the Europeans,
either Candia or Crete, indifferently.
Some hours
stead before
later the boat stopped in the road-
Rethymo,
at the
foot of
the fortress
272
that crowns a high rocky eminence on
the west
two or three palm-trees, and some minarets, varied
by
glittering church crosses,
Around the bay
the town.
show the
a few
position of
swelling hills
pleasantly wooded, country houses, olives and vine-
upon the
yards, a small fort
amongst the clouds

Ida,
compose
of E-ethymo,
all
shore,
and
the vague outline of
far off
Mount
the impression that can be formed
before yielding once more
to
the
agitated character of these Cretan waters.
At length
the
rolling
the
slackens;
breeze,
always, at this season, strong during the afternoon,

sinks as the sun nears the horizon
who may be
interests,
a bad sailor
the traveller
comes back
mundane
to
and climbing on to the deck, quickly loses
remembrance of past discomfort under the reno-
all
vating influence of the cool starry heavens, and the
mysterious vapoury outlines of the coast.
group of persons, talking briskly in
drew me
that
to that part of the deck,
we have taken on board
at
Italian,
and I discover
Candia a Latin
archbishop, going to Canea, with three Franciscan
brethren in
and
sandals.
full
costume of woollen robes, girdles,
The worthy archbishop
gently and rather slowly, that
is
explaining,
Canea
does not
possess a hotel for travellers, but he proposes to offer
us the use of an empty house, in the enclosure of the

convent, and beside the dwelling occupied by the
273
IN CRETE.
This
Sisters of St. Joseph.
by Brother Geronimo a
merry, and most obliging
harbour
is
offer is briskly
quick,
Sicilian,
who,
urged
active,
soon as the
as
reached, superintends the disembarkation
amount of luggage, which he passes
of a large
through the custom house without examination, as

goods going to the convent. It
it
was then the rule that
may be
all
observed that
goods arriving in a
Turkish port, destined for the use of a religious

house or of a Christian mission, were entirely exempt
from duty.
In a few
we
minutes
quietly threading,
are
towards midnight, the silent streets of Canea

procession of two
little
escorted
friars
ladies,
with
servant,
by an archbishop and by three barefooted
The great door of the convent is soon

and we are conducted to the reception-
reached,
room, where the reverend Father Superior receives

us with the greatest politeness.
served
and conversation,
Black
coffee is
at first animated, begins
to languish, then continues
with long pauses, during
which we ask ourselves, wearily, what can have
become of the promised house, the longed-for

Alas
we hear
rest ?
a whisper that our dwelling
is,
as
absolutely empty
The telegram sent from
Rethymo had preceded our arrival only by a few
yet,
minutes
to
the
VOL.
What was
inevitable ?
II.
to
be done
Doubtless
T
? resign ourselves
for
the
Sicilian
274
brother
He
is
rushing about, hastening the preparations.
carries off part of the simple furniture of the
convent
he borrows of the
Sisters, of the
neighbours
he arranges and disposes everything, with
so
much
and good-will, that one could not show im-
activity
The next day, other
patience.
furniture, hired in the
neighbourhood, completed our installation.
The
first
pointment
glance from the window

there
is
no view
of azure mountains promises fine scenery

real subject of the picture is a
principal artery of
commerce
a disap-
is
small side glimpse
narrow
in Canea.
but the
the
street,
Well,
let
satisfied,
even with these limited attractions.
The passers-by
in a strange country are always inter-
us be
esting,
and the sketch of one morning will serve
to
describe all the mornings during our six weeks* stay,
and prosperous seems the
so quiet
life
here, in spite
of political agitations and of the restless, discon-
tented nature of the Cretan population.
At
fixed
ways.
six o'clock the street begins to awake.
heavy shop shutter

then other
few
is
thrown up with a clang and
shutters,
some fastened
foot passengers, donkeys,
clatter along the
rough pavement.
heavy, irregular rumble
it is
side-
and mules
One hears
the dust-cart, for the
chief streets of Canea are carefully kept.
There
out.
On
is
talking under our
window
let
us look
the opposite side of the street stands a
well-built house.
three shops
The
cafe.
IN CBETE.
275
The ground
floor is divided iuto
and a small
a chemist's, a grocer's,
first floor
stands back in the shadow of a
broad balcony, but towards seven o'clock a glass

door opens, and the lady of the house, a Greek,
comes out and leans upon the balustrade. She wears

a French dressing-gown, and her splendid hair
upon
in thick braids
sips
her black
of little
falls
her shoulders, whilst she slowly
coffee, indifferent to
the early studies
hands that are playing, somewhere in the
background, an
air
from " Norma," followed by "La
Mere Angot," quite out
of time
and with numerous
false notes.
Beneath the balcony the grocer's shop gradually

becomes animated.
and leather
fill
On
the open front, olives, soap,
the places of honour, sustained by
rolls of cord, barrels of rice, slices of dried
and clusters of candles.

lessly seated
whilst a
little
on a sack of
little
The grocer
flour,
Arab blacks
Arab, wearing
mutton,
himself, care-
reads his newspaper,
his great boots
yellow-white
a real
turban.
mountaineer from Sphakia examines the squares of
He
leather.
sack,
is
tall,
handsome youth,
and energetic; he
vigorous,
straight,
carries a goat's-hair
hanging round the neck, and has boots up
the
the knees
sively supple,
to
yellow boots of the country, exces-
and supposed
to protect the
wearer
from the bite of serpents. The Cretan costume, with
276
the exception of these high boots, differs

that of the other inhabitants of the
little
Greek
from
islands
a sleeveless waistcoat, laced in the back and very
much open on
cotton,
the breast, wide pantaloons in blue
and the red
fez, soft
and long, with a great
blue tassel hanging on the shoulder.
Two
or three idlers crouched
on small
stools at
the door of the cafe are smoking, while they discuss

the news freshly arrived from Syra and Athens, or
listen
open-mouthed
to a
Greek peasant in "
fusta-
nelle " and long shoes, their points strongly curved
upwards and adorned with large black

Suddenly everyone moves
tassels.
at the cry of a
group
of negro hamals,
who advance slowly and with
culty, carrying,
suspended between long poles, a
great bale of leather, which nearly
fills
and sways in an alarming manner.
by a
porters encourage their effort
dijffi-
the street,
The negro
sort of
measured
howl.
The population of Canea is by this time in moveThe Arab women flit by enveloped in white
ment.
winding-sheets
the negresses display their gay co-
louring amid their floating draperies
the Turk wears
the turban or the fez, according to his preference for
ancient
or
modern customs
over the stones
coaches roll noisily
there are equipages and even street
carriages at Canea.
A chant which
reaches us from the neighbouring
277
IN CRETE.
mosque announces the passage of a Mussulman

This procession
funeral.
differs
from those at Constantinople
in
many
respects
they seem to have
preserved here some customs of the Christian rite
the coffin
and
is
preceded by two boys carrying incense,
followed by a great crowd of Greeks and of
is
Mussulman
The
Cretans.
bier
covered with red
is
and gauze, above the usual shawls, and a
silk veils
garland of
artificial flowers,
mixed with
gold, sur-
rounds the pointed end which marks the head and

is
carried forwards.
while
it
It
'is
a woman's funeral, and
passes a monotonous chant
funeral train.
at every
The
minute
and a meritorious
is
kept up by the
porters of the bier change almost
for
them
it is
both a sacred duty
action.
Funeral processions are frequent in this

that leads from the great
mosque
and the Mussulman cemetery adjoining.
city
later
time
and the funeral chant

it is
is
street,
to the gate of the
A little
again heard.
This
a man's bier, recognisable by the turban
on the high point of the
coffin,
which
is
covered in
black cloth embroidered in large Arabic characters.
man
carrying two bunches of flowers fixed in
earthen pots opens the procession
by the
he
is
followed
incense-bearers.
In the neighbourhood of our house the sonorous

voice of a large clock announces the Turkish hour.
On
the stroke of twelve (sunset)
all
the shops are
278
closed as if
by magic
down, deep silence

profound peace
is
shutters are again clapped
on the busy
falls
street,
and the
only broken at rare intervals by
the roll of a belated coach, the whistle of the night
watchman, or the feeble tremor of the telegraph

wires.
Caneacalled by the Turks Khania

of
government
for the island.
You
is
the centre
find there the
konak, or residence of the governor, the consulates,

the
steamboat
The
houses.
offices,
and the chief commercial
consuls, as also
some families of wealthy
merchants, have their private dwellings at Khalepa,

a village covering a rising
ground
at half-an-hour's
distance to the south-east of the city.
The
principal streets
especially those inhabited
by the Mussulmans, the most ancient portion of
Canea
bered.
are well paved and clean
named and num-
In these old quarters many of the massive
stone houses
still
bear the coats-of-arms of their
former Venetian occupants, sculptured above the

great entrance- gates, most of the old Cretan families
having had a Greek or Italian origin. The language

in general use is Greek.
The island of Crete, so celebrated in the fables of

mythology and in the Greek and Roman annals, was
sold to the Venetians in
1204 by Baldwin, Marquis
was colonised half a century
of Montferrat.
It
The Venetians
raised the fine fortifications that still
later.
279
IN CRETE.
surround the town, and Canea became at that time a

place of considerable importance.
In 1669 Crete
and
fell
at a later time
to the celebrated
Egypt.
of the
under the Turkish domination,
was given by Sultan Mahmoud
Mehemet
It subsequently
Ali Pasha, Viceroy of
became once more a part
Ottoman Empire.
The principal wealth
of the island consists of olives,
oranges, wine, soap, and the cheeses of Sphakia
all
these articles are largely exported throughout the
Levant.
Canea
is
the centre of Cretan commerce,
but the chief industry of the city appears to be the
manufacture of leather boots and shoes, which are
renowned
for their durability
women, both Mussulman and

weave a strong
cloth, as well as
and
The
softness.
Christian, spin
and
very handsome many-
coloured striped coverlets of woollen or cotton.
In the
tions,
districts
removed from European innova-
some of the old costumes may
be found
still
women's garments, richly embroidered
in colours,
the designs bearing evident traces of Venetian taste
and
style ; but these curious relics of high-art needle-
work are not much
who
prefer any
in favour with the Cretan dames,
modern
tinsel to the
dours of their grandmothers.
H.B.M. Consul
in Crete,
heavy splen-
Mr. Sand with,
lately
made, during his long
resi-
large and
beautiful
collection of these ancient embroideries,
bought at
dence in the island, a very
280
a very higli price, for the Cretan peasant
knows how
woman
a large profit on her " anti-
make
to
by them
quities," if she sets small store
as wearing
apparel.
Canea owes much of
its
present comfort and pros-
Raouf Pasha, who has been three times
perity to
where
Vali, or Governor, of the island,
conciliatory rule gained
him
universal
Amongst other important undertakings

establishment
good roads
he has bestowed on the town
garden outside the
that
fortifications
especially leading to the
natural harbour of Suda
Bay
carriages, very well organised,
some
great
a service of street
and
(if
I mistake not)
the electric telegraph, street lighting,
minor improvements.
conferred
good-will.
such as the
and encouragement of schools and
industrial enterprises
a fine public
his gentle,
and other
These signs of progress have
on Canea an appearance of
civilisation
that the traveller would scarcely expect.
A good hotel is
Crete
without
it
still
tourists can
charming and healthy

yacht will cast
visitors
its
wanting in
spot.
this capital of old
make no stay in this

From time to time a
anchor in the port of Canea
the
skim over the environs, and probably ex-
amine the arsenal
at Suda, but
they do not extend
their excursions to the mountains,
embarking, the yacht spreads

other shores.
its
and shortly
re-
white wings for
Strangers, especially ladies, coming
281
IN CRETE.
with the intention of making a few weeks*
to Crete
stay, are so unusual, that
our installation produced
an extraordinary sensation, which served the gossips

for conversation
and conjecture
startled the town.
until a fresh event
A gen-
Surprises came thickly.
tleman had landed the previous night from the

steamer
an English
tourist,
who was
also
en-
deavouring to find a lodging for a few weeks
What
new-comer began
make painted
the country
but
mean ? The
the most inofiensive manner to
could these unexpected arrivals
in
studies of the types
and costumes of
he was perfectly quiet and unobtrusive;
butin
Crete
short, what can have brought him

Very evidently there was a mystery.
to
I have as yet spoken only of the town, but I
longed to
see, to explore,
those sun-bathed slopes,
that the small opening in the street displayed under
a thousand fairy-like tints
ment
to
have a nearer enjoy-
of those aromatic plants that
perfumed even
the narrow roadway of the city; and one balmy

evening, soon
after our
arrival,
I took
an open
carriage at the station beyond the ramparts, and

rolled easily along the
had
rough
left
street,
good road towards Suda Bay.
the town, passing at
first
through a
and by the sombre vaulted passage
under the Venetian
fortifications,
which
is
at all
times encumbered by horses and mules, by Cretans,

Levantines, Arabs, negroes, and negresses
on the
282
outer side
a small market-place
is
The road
vegetables.
follows for a
and
for fruits
few minutes the
by a sudden turn to the right

But one can have
the public garden.
line of the moat, then
brings you to
no thought
be
however pretty
for this garden,
the open country spreads before us
beauties, dazzling,
may
fall
villages
tance.
majestic, or tender, as the eye
on the beautifully wooded plain, with
its
and " tchiftliks " half buried in the rich
masses of foKage
E-iza,
may
it
its illimitable
or rise to the high uplands of the
clothed with a verdure tenderly veiled by dis-
Above
these heights again the eye follows
with delight the gigantic
outline of
the
White
Mountains of Sphakia, every golden crag and peak

rising from the azure
and
violet
gorges, and reposes at length

mits, scarcely traced
haze of
deep
its
upon the highest sum-
upon the blue heavens by
lines
of eternal snow.
The high
road,
as also
many
smaller lanes, are
bordered by hedges of aloes, which here attain to an

extraordinary height and strength
these hedges,
frequently mixed with cactus, form a perfectly im-
penetrable barrier.
Many
of the aloes were on the
point of flowering, throwing

tall
up
their flower-stalks,
and straight as the masts of a small
ship,
already budding with yellow- grey blossoms.

stalks reach to 15 or
flowers measure
20
feet of
height
and
These
the massive
more than half a yard in diameter.
283
IN CRETE.
The
great abundance of the aloe in Crete,
makes
one regret that the inhabitants should not, as
have turned the
fibre to profitable use. It is
by the women of Cephalonia
to
make
yet,
employed
a delicate but
rather perishable sort of lace.
The Cretans regard
as a fable the idea so gene-
rally received, that the aloe blossoms but once in a
century
they declare that the plant produces
flowers with an interval of a few years
but they
add a fable of their own invention, according

which they predict misfortunes and public
its
to
disasters
whenever the aloe hedges are more than usually

flourishing.
aloes around
During the summer of our
visit the
Canea were loaded with blossom.
XX.
IN CRETE.
NO.
II.
CANEA AND
ITS
ENVIRONS.
^Venetian
The Ancient Arsenal of the
The Negro Village. Arab Huts. Street
Carriages. The Leper Settlement. Red Earth and Olive Mumies. Yorghi, the Coffee-seller. Honey and
Travelling Bees. "Lavdanum." The Spring of Perivoglia.
View from the Terrace. The Garden of Munir Agha.
Fine Orange-trees. Khalepa.
Cliurch Mosques.
Gralleys.
Fortifications.
trees.
Three
cially
of
tlie
principal mosques of Canea are espe-
worthy of notice as having been formerly
Christian churches.
That in the high
street,
once
the cathedral of the city, stands near the Latin
The
convent.
narrow.
of the nave
interior
It is separated
with sculptured capitals
from
;
is
its side aisles
long and
by
pillars
the exterior shows remains
by small columns.
The second church-mosque, which still bears traces
fine Gothic work, has been almost destroyed by
of a square tower, ornamented
of
earthquake
but the third
monument
that
we visited
possesses a side chapel in such good preservation,
with
its
high pointed arches and groined
roof, that
IN CRETE.
285
one almost expects to hear the solemn strains of a

Christian chant, and, quitting the twilight of the
sunshine of the
deserted chapel for the hrilliant

portico,
On
it is diflBcult
at first to realise the situation.
one side of this half-ruined monument are found
the remains of an ancient monastery, and of a cemetery surrounded

It
by Gothic
cloisters.
in the harbour of
is
Canea that the
finest
remains of those high vaults, built by the Venetians

for the use of their galleys,
may
still
be seen.
Nine
of these, in good preservation, form two sides of the

interior basin,
and serve as an admirable foreground
to the picturesque masses of the ancient city
its
houses of old stone, bronzed by the burning sun of

this southern climate
rose-coloured
its
its
wooden dwellings, blue or
terraced roofs or spreading eaves
all this
warmth and
waters,
and backed by the majestic range of the
snowy mountains
The Venetian
On
still
of Sphakia.
fortifications still
the south and east

bastions.
brilliancy repeated in the
defend Canea on
by moat and rampart and noble
the massive tower that protects the
a stone entablature displays St.

"
"
Mark's
in his most bellicoee aspect
he
Lion
eastern entrance
hurls defiance at the negro village grouped at the

foot of the southern fort.
This village, composed of small, square, flat-roofed

houses,
is
inhabited by the negro colony originally
286
transported hither by Meliemet Ali, of Egypt.
small mosque occupies the centre of the
ment. It
is
whitewashed
all
little settle-
over (as are the houses),
with the exception of the minaret, that shoots up-
wards coloured a flaming

village,
red.
belonging to brothers
Two
houses of the
who had enriched
themselves by their work, put forth some pretension

to superiority. All this negro population is industrious.
The negroes have planted their village on the seaThe Arabs, faithful to their native taste,
shore.
constructed theirs on a great bare space of sand,
rather farther inland and on the other side of the
high road between Canea and Khalepa.

wattled and deeply thatched, are
Here and there an Arab,
rounded by palisades.
majestically
Their huts,
sometimes sur-
draped in
a dirty
contem-
blanket,
plates the stranger for a distance without deigning

to
manifest curiosity
or
Benghazi passes with a

beautiful
surprise.
floating
native
movement
of
of his
creamy bournous; some children, neatly
dressed in earrings and necklace of glass beads,
make mud-pies and clamour
for " backshish," appa-
rently for the trouble of having looked up.

little
It is a
morsel of Africa, transported to Crete to give
one more touch of exotic originality to the plains at

the foot of the lofty peak of Akrotiri.
Let us turn now towards the west, following the
moat of the great Venetian ramparts.
We are
soon
287
IN CEETE.
at the office for street carriages, established
by Raouf
These coaches can be taken by distance or
Pasha.
by the hour the fares are exceedingly moderate

and strictly regulated. It is high civilisation and
;
if
you do not propose to pass beyond the Bay of
Suda or the immediate environs of Canea, the roads

and the conveyance are
perfect.
But
which
you attempt
if
to follow the ancient tracks, the fearful
plunges with
all travellers in
the East are familiar, begin at
However, the
real traveller will resign him-
once.
self willingly to this suffering, that is leading
him
towards points of beauty unknown to the fastidious

tourist.
"We will leave the smooth highway, and
traverse, without unnecessary delay, the third hamlet
To the inhabitants
in the environs of the city.
these sad dwellings,
more even than
negro and Arab settlements,
is
forbidden to live
may
These miserable people
in the town.
much
it
as enter
it
the leper village
it is
of
to those of the
not so
Small white cottages bordering a lane hedged by

aloes
and cactus
some
lofty trees
a beautiful open
country, with white and snowy mountains in the dis-
tance
here and there a horse, a donkey, or a goat
cropping the
ing about
shine,
soft grass
under the hedge
some pretty children playing
and even young
girls
fowls peckin the sun-
neatly dressed,
who
suspend their household labours to gaze at the passing stranger
such
is
the
scene, that
causes
an
288
impression of pleased surprise, too soon, alas
A second
pated.
dissi-
glance will reveal the sad aspect

Afflicted beings enve-
of this abode of misfortune.
loped, in spite of the great heat, in thick cloaks of
coarse wool, the hoods pulled low over the face, drag
their feeble limbs, or crouch on matting or in the
Some ask alms
begging vaguely.
dust,
pation, for the
Government allows
large loaf a day, and some amongst

olive-fields, vineyards,
which
is
The
for occu-
to each leper
one
them have owned
and property, the produce of
brought to them by friends.
lepers assembled at the gates of
been brought from

soon as the
first
all
Canea have
the surrounding districts.
symptoms
of this fearful
As
malady
become evident, the person so terribly afflicted is

doomed to leave, at once and for ever, home and
family,
to make his abode amidst those living

Young women are here, still preserving
and
spectres.
an appearance of youth and personal attractions;

children are born here, rosy and fresh, and seemingly
in rude health.
All, alas
The
hideous decay.
takes a livid hue
are
doomed
to slow
and
skin becomes discoloured and
the fingers, the hands, the features
gradually disappear, eaten by the leprosy, and the

last
form
sad state of a being

is
hidden from
all
who has no
longer
human
eyes by the enshrouding
cloak and the concealing hood.
In the centre of the poor hamlet there
is
a well
289
IN CRETE.
used by the lepers, and
their offerings
The people
it is
down
here that friends lay
they cannot be otherwise given.
of this country attribute the existence
of leprosy principally to the unwholesome food of

the mass of the population, and particularly of the
They
Greeks.
and
fish,
live almost entirely
on salted meat
and use immoderate quantities of
They take
this
bread even
is
with everything
oil
never eaten without
olive oil.
a morsel of
Oil
it.
one of
is
the chief products of Crete, which can be procured
with fatal ease.
The town
of
Candia, and
Eethymo, have outside
also
(as
believe)
gates leper villages
their
similar to that at Canea.
One breathes more

homes
is
the open country
freely after leaving these sad
Ah
of suffering.
!
how
fresh and beautiful
The road
crosses a little bridge
turning in the direction of the Rhiza
the green
and smiling spurs of the high Sphakiote mountains.
The
air is
fragrant with the scent of thousands of
aromatic plants that carpet the rough ground
you reach vast

as
forest
fields
trees
of olives
that throw
tall,
the
full,
and
shadow of
spreading branches across the bright red earth.

red, indeed, is
it,
then
leafy
their
So
that the tuft of grass or the shoot
young corn appears by contrast tinged with a fine

I have nowhere remarked earth so deeply
sky-blue.
of
red as that of Crete

VOL.
II.
may
u
it
be for this reason that
290
the olive here attains a height and strength far

superior to the olive growth in southern France or
Many
Italy?
the stately trees date from the
of
Venetian times
they
may
be recognised by their
enormous trunks, bent and twisted into a thousand

strange and picturesque
The
coils.
road soon afterwards sinks between orange
plantations, protected
by hedges where the
aloe
and
cactus are mingled with high bushes of myrtle in

full flower
hills,
and as we gradually draw near the
the deep ravines (at present dry) blush with
the rich colouring of the oleander

the gully the waving plumes of
on the edge of
and
ferns
tall
of
the dwarf palm complete the graceful picture.
We reach the village of

stops
under the vine
to a rustic
*'
Murnies, and the carriage
trellis
The
cafe."
that serves as entrance
comes out in
''cavedji'*
haste; he wears the Cretan dress: sleeveless waistcoat, large red waistband, the soft fez,
yellow boots.
He
prectdes the coffee
and the
flower,
offers
;
it
is
and the high
the glass of water that
perfumed with orange
coffee itself partakes of this national
tsence, which harmonised but badly with
its
natural
spirit,
uniting
aroma.
Tbis
many
man
is
callings,
an active, enterprising
as
an inspector of ruial
police, the
guide of occasional strangers, the master of the

village coffee-house,
and the owner of various houses
IX CRETE.
and gardens,
and
orange
291
When
groves.
olive
troubles broke out in Crete, in 1866, Yorghi icent
away
(as
dition of
they say here, to indicate politely the con-
an insurgent), and
perhaps even from

was
fired
it
was from
hand
his
this village
that the
When
which began the war.
firbt
shot
peace was
made he came home, married, and seemed to settb

down. They gave him a small post of authority, in
order to keep him in hand.
His friends affirm that
and the orange groves, and
in spite of the wife,

official
dignity, the fiery
go away again at the
Yorghi
first
is
his
quite ready to
opportunity
but, whilst
awaiting a more brilliant destiny, he discharges his

peaceful duties as " cavedji
*'
and guide,
plete satisfaction of the public. It
is
to the
com-
evident, however,
that recollections of past struggles often recur to
him
they are especially vivid before the ruins of a
chapel, where thirty of the
He
boasts of having
made
enemy had taken

three prisoners,
took to the mountains; " but he did not

explains a friendly apologist
remembering that
he,
refuge.
whom
kill
he
them,"
and Yorghi, suddenly
an inspector of
police, is tread-
ing on dangerous ground, adroitly changes the con" I can show you the most beautiful
versation.
fountain
in
these parts,'*
beautiful water
those lime-trees."
It
is
"
Oh
such
quite near, in the shade of
What
a peaceful fountain?
said he.
can be more innocent than
It is infinitely
more delightful
292
to contemplate
and
than the scene of a bloody struggle,
the dangerous reminiscences
Much honey
made
is
are forgotten.*
in the environs of
and of Perivoglia, a charming
Murnies
on the moun-
village
embosomed in orange groves, plane-trees,

and olives. The hives are baskets, reversed, and
tain side,
thatched with heather.
The quality
of the honey
most excellent, for the peasants, not
satisfied
is
with
the great abundance of aromatic plants that cover

the ground, send their bees in their hives, for change
of air
and nourishment,
perfumed slopes of
to the
the Akrotiri.
In
this part of the
very luxuriant, and
country the myrtle hedges are

(in the
the delicate perfumed blossoms

principally scents the air,
in profusion, is
covered with
season)
;
but the shrub which
and which
is
found here
the " lavdanura," mentioned by old
authors as a Cret
production.
The
shrub exude a thick gum, which
is
leaves of this
collected
whipping the branches with leather thongs.
gum
is
by
This
supposed to possess medicinal virtues.
Above the
village of Perivoglia
you may
see the
spring of water that supplies Canea and the environs

rushes from the heart of the mountain into a
it
A few years later,
was again
in Crete,
and once more
visited
the beautiful slopes of Perivoglia. Yorghi was there, looking verymuch dilapidated, and with a great sword-cut disfiguring his
left
cheek
interval.
he had evidently
been
away
to
some purpose in the
IX CRETE.
293
natural basin at the end of a
short subterranean
passage, and thence into the plain
On
well-constructed conduits.
the spring a
little
by a
series of
the terrace beside
caf^ has been established in the
angle of a grey rock, where a large vaulted niche,

partly natural, shows, as the key -stone of the arch,
a sculptured head which seems of ancient date.

is
said that this
spot
is
the
site
It
summer
of the
palace of the Venetian governors.
This terrace of Perivoglia
a favourite rendez-
is
vous for holiday-makers from Canea.

ful to rest in the
shadow
It
is
delight-
of its spreading plane-trees,
soothed by the cool ripple of the spring, and to gaze
down on
the heaving billows of foliage that cover
the slopes and spread out at the foot of the
moun-
tain until they melt in the broad stretch of yellow
sand that marks the shore and completes the exquisite
colouring of the picture by
its
contrast with the
deep ultramarine of the wide expanse of the MediAgainst this azure background the red
terranean.
ramparts and snowy minarets of Canea stand out in

clear relief
on the right, the chain of the Akrotiri
stretches its bold promontory,
and ends
in a majestic
crag of extraordinary beauty of outline.
One
of the finest gardens near Murni^s belongs
to a certain
politely
Munir Agha, whose
showed us over
vast as the property of
it.
son, Ali
This garden
Hamdy
Bey, most
is
not bo
Bey, that everyone
294
agrees to extol, but
The
it is
infinitely better cultivated.
bordered with rose-trees
patbs,
heavy with
blossom, surround large square plots, where oranges

in every variety, lemon, citron, apricot, peach, plum,
and nectarine,
flourish in perfection.
Orange-trees here
reach the
of 45
height
or
much according to
may give two or three hundred oranges, as it may produce at another time
three thousand.
Ali Bey showed us a tree that had
once yielded as many as five thousand oranges.
The fruit, which is of the finest quality and flavour,
50
the
is
The crop
feet.
season
varies very
tree
sold on the spot for one Turkish
the thousand
it
is
Constantinople and to
The extreme purity

by
all
travellers,
pound
(18s. 2d.)
exported in large quantities to

all
the ports of the Levant.
of the air in Crete
is
remarked
and the invigorating, vivifying
nature of the climate of the hills and the breezy
uplands can scarcely be surpassed
but a residence
in the low-lying grounds, in the midst of beautiful
but rank vegetation,
is
extremely unhealthy
the
winter torrents rushing from the mountains form

(during several months of the year) stagnant swamps,
the inevitable source of intermittent fevers.
In the environs of Canea the

brious air
is
stony, rather
found
wanting
at
finest
Khalepa, a
in trees,
riant vegetation of the plain
and most
hillside
compared
salu-
rather
to the luxu-
and of the lower slopes
295
IN CRETE.
of
theRhiza; but
this bareness is forgotten before
the magnificent panorama of the bay of Canea and

of the point of Suda.
From
a healthy eminence,
scented by a multitude of aromatic plants, that rises
behind the English Consulate, the view

cent
and those who have once gazed on
may have
is
magnifi-
it,
and who
enjoyed the frank and cordial hospitality
of that stone house in the midst of the heather, will
carry with them from Canea, and above
all,
from
Khalepa, a happy and imperishable remembrance.
THE END.
ytUMTKD BV
J. .
VlHTVX AMD Cu^ LtMtTKO, CITY BUAU, VOMUst*.
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Henrietta Street^ Co vent Gardss,
JV.C.
ApRiLy 1886.
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Neio Edition of
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Messrs.
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I.
THE FORTNIGHTLY REVIEW.

Edited by T.
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THE FORTNIGHTLY REVIEW

every month, and a
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TTie following are
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ESGOTT.
S.
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is
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RUTHERFORD ALCOCK.
CLIFFE LESLIE.
T. E.
MATHEW ARNOLD.
JOHN LUBBOCK,
THE EARL LYTTON.
SIR
PROFESSOR BAIN.
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PROFESSOR H. N. MOSELEY.
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SIR GEORGE CAMPBELL, M.P.
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EMILIO CASTELAR.
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L. H. COURTNEY, M.P.
G. H. DARWIN.
WALTER
SIR GEORGE W. DASENT.

PROFESSOR A. V. DICEY.
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EASTEEN LIFE AND SCENERY

Digitized by the Internet Archive

2007 with funding from

EASTERN LIFE AND SCENERY

EXCURSIONS IN ASIA MINOR, MYTILENE,

CHAPMAN AND EALL

The Talika, The Mistress of

Preparations for the Festival.

II. THE BETROTHAL OF DJENANIAH CALPHA.

and Bridal Furniture. -Oppressive Finery

The New Name.

rV. UNDERGROUND STAMBOUL.

Yere-Batan- Serai. The Mysterious Lake. A Palace of the

v.TURKISH HOME LITE.

WINTER IN THE SUNNY EAST.

Fancies and Facts. ^A Dog's Luxury.

" Yangheun Varl''

ART OF LIVING, ACCORDING TO

How to Dismiss a Visitor Politely.The

use of Salt in a Slipper.

IX. THE BATHS OF BROUSSA.

Contrast in Beauties of Broussa and the Bosphorus. Getting

Boat. Our Small Party. The Princes' Islands.

X. THE BATHS OF BROUSSA.

Mosque of Mourad I. A Foimtain of Hot and Cold Water.

and of Silkworm Seed. Great Care Needed.

The Miniature Grove. A Fairy Hamac. The Cocoon.

Establishment at Demirdesch. Frames

Spinning "Fabrika." Unpleasant Odour from the Boiling Cocoons.

The Yeni-Kaplidja Hammam.

Djamekian, or Robing-room. The Hammamdji. The

XIV.THE PEARL OF THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO.

A Prosperous Island Careful Cultivation

The Daughters and their Fortunate

by the ** Bar and MaUet." Interior of the Church and

Church, Trei Sfetitili.St. Nicholas

From Piatra. Picturesque

Tomb of Alexander the Good. A Beautiful

In the Harbour of Canea. Rethymo. Brother Geronimo.

Ancient Arsenal of the Galleys.

Venetian Fortifications. The Negro Village. Arab

SKETCHES OF EASTERN LIFE

Festival, The Talika. The Mistress of

the country house of

Pasha there are

great preparations for the festival of his three elder

a very important event in the life of

long and costly preparations

acquaintances, are invited to share in the feasting

usual for persons of position

from the poorer families of the

take part in and benefit

We started from Pera (in acceptance of a pressing

by poor old Eli, a Bulgarian, and

SKETCHES OF EASTERN LIFE AND SCENERY.

one of the best talika-drivers in Constantinople.

His was a rickety

and the old grey horse

looked almost past work, yet Eli being fortunately

that nothing short of an inevitable

thumped and swayed, and plunged resigned and

opportunities between the