RESIDENTIAL CONSTRUCTION SPECIFICATIONS

Construction drawings focus on a buildings shape, appearance, and dimensions, while the
written construction specifications, or specs, focus on what materials will be used and how
they should be installed. What information goes in notes on the drawings, and what goes in
the specs is up to the designer, but a good set of detailed specs goes far beyond what could
possibly be put into a drawing. Its OK if the same information appears in both places, but if
there is a contradiction, the specifications generally take priority, at least legally.
At a minimum, building specifications list what materials to use, and call out any special
installation requirements. Specs are much more valuable if they go farther and provide
detailed installation requirements and establish quality standards for the materials and the
workmanship. Equally important is providing a measurable way to determine whether the
work has met the standard.
On a large job, the specs will be broken down by trades, so there will be specs for the
painting, roofing, concrete work, flooring, and so on.
On a small remodeling job, the roofing specs might be as simple as:
Existing asphalt roof shingles shall be removed and disposed of by contractor. New shingles
shall be 25-year architectural shingles with 36-inch-wide Grace Ice-and-Water Shield, or
approved equal, at eaves. Underlayment shall be 15-pound tar paper. Aluminum drip edge
to be installed at eaves and along gable ends, and an approved aluminum vent at ridge.
On a high-end new home designed by an architect, the roofing specs might go a lot farther
stating that the roof shingles must meet specific standards (UL) for fire resistance and
(ASTM) for wind resistance, that the tar paper underlayment meet a specific ASTM
standard, and that the drip edge must be of a certain minimum thickness of aluminum. It
may go further to state that the shingles must be installed within a certain temperature
range, which may be more restrictive than the manufacturers requirements. For example:
Existing asphalt roof shingles shall be removed and disposed of by contractor. Site shall be
left free of nails and other debris. New shingles shall be GAF Timberline Series 30 year
architectural shingle, or equal acceptable to owner, installed as per the written
manufacturers instructions, and within the temperature range recommended by
manufacturer. All eaves shall be lined with 36 in. Grace Ice and Water Shield. Grace Ice and
Water Shield shall also line all valleys and any roof areas with a slope of 3:12 or less.

Underlayment shall be ASTMD226 TypeI or II asphalt-impregnated underlayment or an

approved synthetic underlayment, lapped min. 6 in. at horizontal seams and min. 4 in. at
vertical seams. Nails shall be double hot-dipped galvanized roofing nails of sufficient length
to fully penetrate roof sheathing. Use step flashing at all roof penetrations; Flashing shall be
.032 in. aluminum or 16 oz. copper or lead-coated copper. Use .032 in. aluminum drip edge
at all eaves and gable ends. Install Air Vent Shingle Vent II at ridge, as per manufacturers
written instructions.

HOW MUCH TO SPECIFY

Many construction jobs are done with no or minimal written specifications. The customer
doesnt really know what he or she is getting, and often is often disappointed with the
results. In the absence of a written spec, you will often get so-called builders grade
products, a euphemism for cheap and basic. Builders-grade windows are typically solid
vinyl with very cheap screens that are difficult or impossible to remove without breaking
them I know, as I have some in my current home and previous home. Builders-grade
doors, floor coverings, tubs, showers, bathroom fixtures, and cabinets share the same
minimal price and quality.
If you want better, and if you want to know ahead of time what you are getting from a
contractor, you need at least basic written specifications, identifying the products that will
be used, how many coats of paint or floor finish you are getting, and so on. Otherwise, its a
complete crap shoot. If you are working with a quality-minded, conscientious contractor, you
may get an excellent job, but why leave it up to chance?
You cant and dont want to spec every nail. But reasonably detailed specs will reduce your
risk of getting substandard materials or workmanship, and it will reduce the risks of disputes
over the completed work quality since the standards for material type, quality, and
workmanship are spelled out in black and white.
How detailed a spec should be depends on the complexity and requirements of the job. Id
recommend basic specs, such as listing the products to be used by brand and model for
just about every product and material to be used on the job. For paints and coatings, you
will want to know what prep work will be done and how many coats applied.
Beyond that, youll want detailed specs for portions of the job that are very costly (or costly
to fix, such as the foundation), critical to the success of the project, prone to problems (like
radiant floors), or require specialized products or workmanship that may be unfamiliar to the
tradespeople doing the job. If problems show up after the work is done, you will be in much
stronger position to get the work repaired if you have a written spec to fall back on.

Examples of products or systems that should have detailed installation specs, and issues to
cover in the specs, include:

Foundations Concrete mix, strength, reinforcing

Concrete slabs Concrete mix, strength, reinforcement, flatness, finish,

expansion/movement joints, allowable cracks

Roofing Type, weight/thickness/warranty period of roofing; type of underlayment,

flashing, and fasters. Carefully spec details for low-slope roofs, and for complex roofs
with hips and valleys, detailing how valleys will be waterproofed. Get detailed material
and installation specs for roofing materials such as wood, metal, tile, slate, and
composite materials.
Windows and doors Specify type, model, and energy efficiency. Also provide

flashing details around doors and windows to prevent leaks, which are common here.
Skylights Prone to leaking. Make sure installation follows manufacturers specs.

Extra membrane flashing around skylights recommended in freezing climates.

Insulation and air sealing If you care about energy performance, youll need to

spec this carefully.

HVAC systems A lot can go wrong here. System can be oversized, undersized,

uneven, noisy, leaky (ductwork), and inefficient due to installation errors.

Radiant heating Needs careful specifications by an experienced designer or

installer.
Wood flooring Moisture content, substrate, fasteners, vapor barriers (over slab),

finishes. Follow the recommendations of the National Wood Flooring

Association (NWFA).
Ceramic tile Follow the methods and standards in the TCNA Handbook if you want

trouble-free installations. Floor must be stiff enough. Also pay attention to substrates,
adhesives, and movement joints.
Special construction for wind or seismic loads: This includes wind-resistant roofing,

impact-resistant windows, engineered framing fasteners, and shear wall requirements.

Metal components in coastal areas: Make sure that any exposed metal flashing,
fasteners, or hardware is stainless steel, copper, brass, lead, or double hot-dipped
galvanized. Other metals and finishes will not last long due to the corrosive power of
salt spray.

Over the years, Ive learned to assume nothing about a job where the scope of work is not
in writing. If the work description or construction drawing is not specific, you wont really
know what youre getting until the job is done. You may be happy with it or not, but
changing it mid-job or after completion is always expensive and who will pay for the
changes will always be contested.

If you know what you want, specify it. Do you want the nail holes filled with a color-matched
putty on your natural woodwork if so, put it in the contract. Otherwise you might find
yourself filling several hundred holes by yourself after the job is done.
While you cant spec every last nail, there are times when you have to spec things as small
as nails. For example, I once built a gambrel roof using site-built trusses fabricated with
plywood gussets. The nails in the gussets had to be a specific size, length, and number,
and installed in a specific pattern for the engineered design to work. Using the proper type
and size of nails and fasteners is also critical in truss hangers and other engineered framing
connectors, as well as with tile backerboards, drywall (to prevent nail pops), and many other
building materials. So, in many cases, it does make sense to specify the nails.

TYPES OF SPECIFICATIONS
Specifications may cover the properties and installation of products and materials, and
systems. They are either written as product specifications, installation specification, or
performance specifications.
Product specifications. These can name specify a specific brand-name product, such as:
Foundation insulation shall be 2-inch tongue-and-groove Dow Styrofoam, or equivalent. To
give the contractor more flexibility it may provide a technical spec, such as Rigid foam
insulation to be 2-inch-thick extruded polystyrene with tongue-and-groove edges, with a
minimum compressive strength of 25 psi.
The first type of spec, that names the product is certainly the simplest no question about
what is to be used. Language such as or equivalent or or similar are OK as long as you
state in your contract that any such substitutions must be approved by owner or owners
representative. In some cases, like with extruded foam insulation above, all major brands
are pretty much the same. With other types of products, such as paint, doors and windows,
siding products, and composite wood products, equivalency is harder to determine. Youre
better off finding the product you like and speccing just that.
Highly technical specs are probably overkill for most residential products, except in high-end
jobs, and in instances where the design or code calls for specialty products. For example, if
you are putting Styrofoam insulation under a slab or foundation, you will need a higher
compressive strength than what is typically found in the lumberyard. If you are in an area
where the code requires impact resistant windows, wind-resistant roofing, or special
structural connections to protect against earthquakes or high winds, then technical
specifications are essential.

Installation specifications. Most contractors and tradespersons have their own way of
doing things. In the building trades, youll often hear things like This is how Ive always
done it and Ive always done it this way and havent had any problems. Thats exactly
what the contractor told me who installed a Velux skylight in a shallow roof, violating the
manufacturers specs, and guess what it leaked until I removed it and reinstalled it per the
manufacturers instructions.
Unfortunately the way weve always done it may not work anymore due to changes in
materials, codes, energy standards, or other factors particular to your job. The goal of
installation specs is to avoid these kinds of problems. These describe, in detail, how a
product is to be installed or applied. For example,
Install 2-inch Styrofoam extruded polystyrene insulation over interior side of basement wall
by attaching wood furring strips vertically over the foam insulation at 16-in. or 24-in. on
center. Fasten 12-in. or 24-in. furring strips through the foam insulation and into
basement wall using Tapcon or similar screws that penetrate about 1-1/4 into the concrete
wall. Use 4 screws per 8 ft. furring strip.
Quality standards. Installation specs for visible finish work often contain quality standards
as well (see also Quality Standard contract language). Quality standards are only useful if
they provide an objective, measurable way to determine if the standard has been met. For
example, a Level 4 drywall finish, from US Gypsum, based on the standards of the Gypsum
Association is as follows:
All joints and interior angles shall have tape embedded in joint compound and shall be
immediately wiped with a joint knife or trowel, leaving a thin coating of joint compound over
all joints and interior angles. In addition, two separate coats of joint compound shall be
applied over all flat joints and one separate coat of joint compound applied over interior
angles. Fastener heads and accessories shall be covered with three separate coats of joint
compound. All joint compounds shall be smooth and free of tool marks and ridges. The
prepared surface shall be covered with a drywall primer like Sheetrock first coat prior to
the application of the final decoration.
While this goes into great detail about the installation, the only standard about the quality of
the visible finish is that the joint compound should be smooth and free of tool marks and
ridges. How smooth and free of tool marks is pretty vague.
A better quality standard is provided by the National Association of Homebuilders (NAHB) in
their book of Residential Construction Performance Guidelines. This provides both

performance guidelines and corrective actions. For drywall finish to meet their standard it
must not have any of the following:

Any joints visible from a standing position, facing the surface at a distance of 6 feet

under normal lighting conditions

Any nail pop, blister, or other blemishes that are visible from a standing position

facing the surface at a distance of 6 feet under normal light conditions

Any drywall cracks greater than 1/16 inch in width
Any defects resulting in cracked corner bead, trowel marks, excess joint compound,
or blisters in tape

This seems like a reasonable standard, although Id apply the same standard to cracks as
to other defects: Any drywall crack visible from 6 feet under normal conditions should be
fixed.
Performance specs. This type of spec describes the standards that must be met, rather
than the specific product of system to be used. The contractor will propose a product or
system, which must then be approved by the owner or owners representative, such as an
architect or construction manager.
Performance specs are often used for heating, air conditioning, and other mechanical
systems. They may also be used for wells, septic systems, or other building components
where the performance is more important than the specific products and materials used. In
general, this is a practical and economical approach that puts the responsibility on the
subcontractor or vendor to design the system. They have the expertise to do this efficiently
and are accustomed to putting out proposals. They may offer some suggestions that differ
from your specs, which are generally worth listening to.
A performance spec for an air-source heat pump might read:
Air-source heat pump shall cool all rooms in the house to 76F degrees in summer with
outdoor temperatures of 93F, and heat all rooms in winter to 70F with outdoor temperature
of 25F. First and second floor shall have separate heating and cooling zones. All ductwork
to be galvanized sheet metal or insulated duct board, fabricated, sized, and installed in
accordance with applicable ASHRAE and SMACNA standards. All ductwork joints shall be
sealed with duct mastic (and fiberglass tape on ductboard). All ductwork in unconditioned
spaces shall be insulated. Heat pump to be Energy Star certified.

Special conditions. This type of specification would cover an special measures required
on the job due to poor weather (too hot or too cold), difficult access, very steep or wet sites,
environmental concerns, etc.
Special words and phrases. Certain phrases are commonly used in specs. Some are
good, some not so good. The main ones to watch for are:

Workmanlike manner. It never hurts to specify that work be done in a workmanlike

manner, but the definition is pretty fuzzy.

Manufacturers written instructions. Always include in you specs, where relevant,

that all materials and products will be installed in accordance with manufacturers
written instructions. Most manufacturers provide detailed installation instructions, which
tend to be strict as they do not want to see product failures. If your contractor does not
follow these instructions, any product warranties may be voided.
Match existing. This is commonly used in remodeling work. Its best to find the

matching product before you start. If your contract requires the contractor to match
existing, make sure it contains a reasonable way to determine if it meets the standard,
preferably that the match must be approved by owner or owners representative. (See
also Match Existing contract clause.)
In accordance with all applicable codes. It doesnt hurt to include this language

and it might come in handy on occasion. For example, if the building, plumbing, or
electrical inspector rejects a portion of the work for whatever reason, and the contractor
claims that it will be an extra to bring the work up to code, you have a leg to stand on
here. Building inspectors have a fair amount of discretion in how they interpret the
code, so surprises like this do occur.
Or equivalent. Or phrases such as or equal or or similar often wind up in
specs and can lead to many problems if not accompanied by language stating that
the substitution is approved by owner or owners representative. Once piece of
drywall or fiberglass insulation may be as good as another, but the same is not true for
most building products. A shorthand way to write this type of spec is or approved
equal. Make it clear who has the authority to approve a substitution.

CONSTRUCTION SPECS: GOOD AND BAD EXAMPLES

Here are examples of good and poor specifications:
Poor: Composite-type decking, Trex or equivalent, fastened with hidden fasteners.
Good: Decking to be 1-inch-thick Trex Transcend composite decking installed with the Trex
Hideaway Hidden Fastener System, in accordance with the manufacturers written
instructions. Color to be selected by owner.

Poor: All exterior trim to be primed and painted with Benjamin Moore latex paint, or
equivalent.
Good: Before painting, exterior trim to have exposed knots sealed with shellac or
equivalent sealer. Exposed corners to be lightly sanded. All trim shall be primed on all six
sides with Benjamin Moore Latex Primer 169, and receive two top coats of Benjamin
Moore ExteriorAcrylic Latex SemiGloss K588.
Poor: Ceramic wall tile be installed over tile backerboard with thinset mortar. Grout shall be
installed with movement joints, as needed, and sealed upon completion
Good: Ceramic wall tile to be installed with latex-modified thinset mortar over 1/2-inch
Hardibacker fastened to wood framing with corrosion-resistant screws, in accordance with
the backerboard manufacturers written instructions. All Hardibacker edges to be backed by
solid framing. Grout color to be approved by owner. Grout shall be polymer-modified and
sealed with Aqua Mix Sealers Choice Gold, from Custom Building Products. At all corners,
tub edges, and changes of material, tile joints shall be grout-free and sealed with a resilient
caulk to match the adjoining grout. All work shall be done in a workmanlike manner.

WHERE TO GET CONSTRUCTION SPECS

If you are working with an architect, he or she will provide specs as part of the design
process. Most architects use a system called Master Spec, a comprehensive specification
system developed in conjunction with the AIA (American Institute of Architects). Master
Spec is overkill for most small jobs e.g., the short-form spec for residential wood flooring
is 7 pages long but it certainly covers all the bases and can be edited as needed (see
Master Spec sample).
If the designer does not provide specs, they generally come from the contractor as part of
his proposal and are often very minimal. For example: Install architectural shingles over
roofing felt as per plan.
If you are writing your own specs, you should start by identifying as many products as you
can by brand name and model. Perhaps you want Marvin double-glazed windows with
argon and Benjamin Moore paints. For many of these products you can specify that they be
installed according the manufacturers printed instructions. Its better if you take a look at
these instructions and include in the specs the most important details.

Most mainstream building products have detailed instructions from the manufacturer. For
generic products, such as ceramic tile, you will find extensive product and installation specs
published by trade associations for the industry (see list of construction trade association).
Construction industry standards. Trade organizations publish extensive standards for
installing plywood, hardwood flooring, ceramic tile, wood shingles, and similar generic
products that may not have instructions from the individual manufacturer. A stronger
approach than just referencing industry standards is to cite a specific industry
specification. For example: Ceramic tile and backerboard to be installed according to
the 2010 TCA Handbook for Ceramic Tile Installation. Even better is to specify a specific
standard such as Install ceramic tile according to TCA Standard RH110-10: For Radiant
Heat on Concrete: Hydronic System. These standards go into great detail about the
preparation, materials, site conditions, and installation techniques required for a
professional job.
They may also cite specific quality levels. For example, the Gypsum Association (GA), in
conjunction with three other trade associations publishes detailed specs for installing
gypsumboard. If you specify a Level 4 Gypsumboard finish, then All joints and interior
angles shall have tape embedded in joint compound and two separate coats of joint
compound applied over all flat joints and one separate coat of joint compound applied over
interior angles. Fastener heads and accessories shall be covered with three separate coats
of joint compound. All joint compound shall be smooth and free from tool marks and ridges.
Even if you have no idea what the standard states, if there are problems with the
installation, you have a solid, written standard to rely on to establish whether the product
was installed correctly. See list of trade associations that publish standards.
Other published standards. Some contractors cite a specific minimum quality standard
such as the Residential Construction Performance Guidelines, published by the National
Association of Homebuilders (NAHB). These standards cover the entire building from
foundation to roof, establishing quality standards for everything from foundation cracks to
painting quality. Each entry also includes commentary and corrective actions. A couple of
examples follow:
Concrete Slabs: Concrete floors in living areas will not have pits, depressions, or areas of
unevenness exceeding 3/8 inch in 32 inches. Corrective Measure: The contractor will
correct or repair the floor to meet the guideline.

Drywall: Any joints that are visible from a standing position of 6 feet under normal lighting
conditions are considered excessive. Corrective Measure: One time only during the
warranty period, the contractor will repair affected areas.
The first standard for concrete slabs is pretty lax in my opinion. It falls well short of
the TCNA Standards for ceramic tile, which call for no more than in. variation in 10 ft., but
may be suitable for some types of floor coverings such as thick carpeting.
The second standard seems pretty reasonable to me. However, I would ask for a one-year
warranty on the repair in the event that the repair is inadequate, or that the building
continues to move and settle after one year generally not a good sign.
Many of the standards, for example, allowing a inch gap allowed where cabinets fit to a
wall, are pretty lax and would not meet the standards of most custom builders. Although this
book is a mixed bag, and was written by a contractors organization primarily to protect
contractors from unreasonable claims, at least it does the job of establishing objective
measures of quality.
For a homeowner unfamiliar with the nitty-gritty details of construction, the book can provide
a good introduction to the many types of quality issues that come into play and can serve as
a starting point for establishing minimum quality standards acceptable to both parties. If a
particular aspect of the job for example, the interior woodwork, is of particular importance
to you, it may make sense to establish a specific standard, borrowing from the style, if not
the specific dimensions, of this book. The book allows 1/8-inch gaps in interior trim if you
are paying premium rates for custom trim, maybe a 1/16-inch gap is more reasonable.
In most cases, the standards established by individual trade organizations for drywall,
ceramic tile, hardwood flooring, wood siding, etc., are more stringent than in the NAHB
Guidelines, so referencing the individual standards would be preferable. If you are using an
architect, he is likely to reference industry standards through the Master Spec or a similar
spec writing system. Also most custom builders would aim for higher standards in their work
due to professional pride, and their desire to satisfy their customers and get repeat work
and referrals. Thats the contractor you want to hire.