Modeling the Clinchfield, the ET&WNC, the Little River, steam in the garden, rail photography, and remembering N&W #611 and
#1218.
CUBICLE TRAIN
Introduction
How it is controlled
Timer Circuit
HO CUBICLE TRAIN
G CUBICLE TRAIN
Linking to this Website
G Cubicle Train
The train runs back and forth along your cubicle walls. It stops briefly at both ends of the track, and then runs backwards in the opposite
direction. You can build my control circuit for about $10-15 or you can buy a controller from LGB or Aristocraft (They will work with your
HO trains, too.) Control is simple and does not require any wires running along your cubicle walls.
HO Cubicle Train
I have installed cubicle trains in HO and in G. So read about them both and pick the one thats right for you. Both of them can use the same
controller. That is described below. Then visit the HO or the G page to learn how you can install your own cubicle train!
Before you start, be sure you ask permission of your neighbors. I have never had anyone refuse my request. Usually they just want to be
Cost
# of cars without being too
noisy
Frequency of track
cleaning
HO
$150-$300
$300-$650
2-3 weeks
Weekly
Other
The trick is to bridge the gap for each block with a diode. The diode is installed reverse biased. The reverse biased diodes blocks power
from each end block. When you reverse the power to the track, the diode becomes forward biased and allows power to your train so that it
can move in the opposite direction. For less than a dollars worth of parts, it couldnt be simpler.
Now all you need is a timer to periodically reverse your track power. I put the power pack and the timer circuit in one of my enclosed
cabinets. Most cabinets are open in the back you can run wires to power your train without drilling any holes.
The reversing timer consists of your basic 555 timer circuit powered by a basic power supply and voltage regulator circuit. The 555 is
capable of driving a "highly sensitive" relay.
Part
Description
Radio Shack
P/N
Z1
276-1152
U1
NE 555 timer*
C1
272-1047
C2, C4, C5
272-131
C3
272-1029
D1
276-1101
K1
275-249
S1, S2
275-1556
Ra
271-1118
Rb1
271-1130
Rb2
271-1133
Rb3
271-211
U2
276-1771
box
270-1806
circuit board
276-170
knob
Terminals
276-1388
* Radio Shack does not carry the NE555. They do carry the LM556. You can use that. Only the pin numbers are different. The Radio Shack
p/n for the NE556 is 276-1728. The pin outs are as follows:
NE555
LM556
14
Radio Shack also carries the TLC555. This is not 100% directly compatible with the NE555. I will redesign the circuit to use the TLC55 if
there is enough interest.
You can make all sorts of changes to Ra, Rb, and C1 to get different ranges of time. But rather burden you with equations, I have picked
values that should provide an adequate range of times for everyone. I suggest you leave Ra as is. The lower value ensures a nearly 50/50 duty
cycle. Rb1 can be lowered if the minimum time is still too much. Rb2 can be lowered to give you less total time. Rb3 was selected because
that it what Radio Shack sold. Radio Shack's next smaller potentiometer is 100k-ohm. That is too small.
The forward and reverse buttons are not required. They are there for convenience. Pushing either button will interrupt the timer and force
your train to come toward you so that you can put it away at the end of the day. If the train does not move forward when you press the
forward button, reverse the wires going to the track.