SUMMER INTERNSHIP REPORT

{23rd May,2016 15th July,2016}

Training in the esteemed garments manufacturing company

MOHAN CLOTHING COMPANY PVT. LTD.

Under the guidance of :
Mr. SANJAY SONI
(Sr. Manager, Fabric Deptt.)
Submitted By:
MOHIT SONI
[Roll No: 13EMBTT071]
Of

M.L.V. TEXTILE & ENGINEERING COLLEGE, BHILWARA

Table Of Contents
1. Acknowledgement
2. Company Profile
3. About the Company
4. Products
5. Format for Sale
6. Working Protocol of MCCPL
7. Working Teams of MCCPL
8. Different Apparel Categories
9. Working of Different Departments
10.
Fabric Sourcing
11.
Design Department
12.
Tech Design Department
13.
Ware-House
14.
Inhouse Manufacturing Units
15.
Krishna Label Pvt.Ltd.
16.
Plant Layout
17.
Sampling Department
18.
Fabric Store
19.
Pattern Making
20.
CAD Department
21.
Cutting Department
22.
Sewing Department
23.
Quality Department
24.
Finishing Department
25.
Packing Department
26.
Industrial Engineering Department
27.
Maintenance Department
28.
Power Department
29.
Illumination System
30.
Record Maintenance
31.
Store Activity & Inventory
32.
Safety & Security Department
33.
Communication Format
34.
Minor Project

Acknowledgement
It was a great oppotunity for me to work with MOHAN CLOTHING
COMPANY PVT. LTD. In the department of Fabric Sourcing. I am extremely
grateful to all those who have shared their expertise and knowledge with me and
without whom the completion of this project would have been virtually impossible.
Firstly I would like to thank HUMAN RESOURCE & MANAGEMENT
Department for allowing me to do summer internship in the admired company.
Then I must not forget to thank the FABRIC SOURCING team who has been
a constant source of inspiration for me during the completion of this project. They
gave me invaluable inputs during my endeavor
to complete this training.
I am indebted to all the staff of KLPL and AVM for their valuable cooperation
and support during the entire tenure of this training. Not to forget, all those who
have kept our spirits surging and helped delivering our best.
At last I would like to thank all the respondents met in the preparation, who
gave their valubale time to provide me required information and their honest to
complete my project in time.

MOHIT SONI

COMPANY PROFILE
Company Name
Address

Telephone
E-mail
Website
Year of establishment
Directors
Annual Turnover
(FY 2015-2016)
Monthly Production
Capacity @100% eff

Mohan Clothing
Company Pvt. Ltd.
Plot No.76,Udyog
Vihar,Phase 1,
Gurgaon,Haryana122016 (India)
0124-4648800,2348873
blackberrys@vsnl.com
www.blackberrys.com
1991
Mr. Nitin Mohan
Mr. Nikhil Mohan
800 crores INR
Trousers 115000 pcs
Suits 30000 pcs
Shirts 38000 pcs

ABOUT THE COMPANY

With a strong hold on varied market segments across the world MOHAN
CLOTHING COMPANY PVT. LTD. are recognized as a reputed garment
manufacturing company.
Incepted in the year 1991, they have acquired immense design expertise that helps
us in meeting the diverse requirements of their global clientele.
These facilities assist us in producing a quality assured range of garments for their
valued clients.
Ever since its inception, Blackberrys has never looked back.
In the 25 years since we entered the Indian fashion scene, many things have
changed.
One thing, however, has remained the same: our clear focus on providing the young
Indian male with truly sharp wardrobe solutions, across all his lifestyle needs.
Be it a pair of crisp khakis for lounging about at a movie hall, or a flamboyant shirt
for an evening painting the town red, or a power suit for that big-deal business
meeting, he has always relied on Blackberrys to come up with the goods.
So what is sharp?
Sharp is the boldness of our designs, that allows him to make an emphatic statement
about his own attitude.
Sharp is the precision of our construction that each Blackberrys garment boasts.
Sharp is the craftsmanship and attention to detail that we lavish on our apparel,
which put that unmistakable seal of elegance on his personality.
With a presence in over 200 exclusive brand outlets, besides 1000+ multi-brand
stores, and retailers such as Shoppers Stop and Lifestyle, Blackberrys is even more
easily accessible to the fashionable young man whose motto is: 'go sharp.'

 Catering to the self assured and confident youth

Strong image of Sharp Edged Clothing
U.S.P. of Company:
Blackberrys prides on itself on its ability to spot trend first &
bring them onboard before anyone else .
Sharp,Smooth and Structured garments
Innovations: Khakhis {cotton casaul trousers}
Sharp and Slim fit clothing
Its ceaseless passion of innovation is reflected in the theme collection
they launch twice a year.
A high recall value
Perceived as Premium Clothing brand.

Brand's Tag Line : Go Sharp

Go Energy, passion, today's youth
Sharp Extension of a charismatic personality

PRODUCTS

Shirts
Trousers
Khakhis
Suits
Jackets
Accessories
Footwears
Knitwears
Innerwears

FORMATS FOR SALE

{Customers can buy from}

Exclusive Brand Outlet (EBO): Company own showrooms,190+

showrooms in INDIA , completely set by MCCPL(Visual Merchandiser)
Also include 25 Gold Stores
High revenue
More space
More profit gain

Multi Brand Outlet (MBO): More than one brand, Not company own
(Distribution Basis), Further divided in two categories
1. Traditional
2. Shop and Shop

Large Format Retail (LFR): Blackberrys tieup with

1) Lifestyle
2) Central
3) Shoppers Stop

VALUE SALE (VS): Products which are not sold in previous season,
Left over pieces . Discounts throughout the year .
E-COMMERCE: Tie-up with
And Blackberrys offical website

Working Protocol of MCCPL

Mill Week
{Invitation to Fabric Suppliers}
Supplier's Collection's Presentation
Selection by Product & Design department
Sample Yardages order
Garments Sample Preparation by Sampling Dptmt
Those samples are displayed for selling purpose in

TRADE SHOW
Order Booking
Fabric & Trimms Team places order for Bulk Production
Production Planning team plans for manufacturing units
(Inhouse or Outsource)

Different teams of MCCPL

Design
Product
Fabric
Production
Ware-house
Sales
Finance
Customer Care

Different Apparel Categories

BLACKBERRYS
Mainline

Urban

Luxe

NOS

MAINLINE
Shirts
MS

Trousers

Khaki

DLT

Suit Jacket T-shirts/Sweaters

KH

CS

URBAN
(Fashion Forward for young age group 18-30)

Shirts

Jacket

Khaki

US

UJ

UT/UD

T-shirts/Sweaters

LUXE{LX}
(Premium Category,European Fabrics)
Shirts

Trousers

Jacket Suits

NEVER OUT OF STOCK (NOS)

Shirts

Khaki

Jackets

Further all these categories are divided in :

Casual {BT}- Leisure
Formal{BP}- Business
Partywear{NL}- Nightlife
Products which are manufactured inhouse :

Suits n Jackets
Dressline Trousers
Khaki Trousers
Shirts

Products which are manufactured outsource: Accessories

Footwears
Knitwears
Innerwears
T-shirts
Sweaters
There are four manufacturing units in Gurgaon & two Ware-house units in IMT
Manesar .

Working of Different Departments

FABRIC SOURCING
Fabric sourcing department is basically engaged in determining how and where its
merchandise i.e fabric will be obtained. It looks after the delivery of the required
goods within the scheduled time and cost. A fabric sourcer must have a knowledge
about all varieties of fabric in order to execute their function effectively. Fabric
sourcing is done by the Fabric Sourcing (Head Office) and Trimms Sourcing is done
by the Tech Design Department, once the design is prepared, then the pie sheet is
created based on that information.
MCCPL source fabric for garment sample development and for the bulk production.
In some orders fabric sourcing process start from fabric development stage. On the
other side when MCCPL source fabric for the repeat order or basic types of fabrics
dont need to go for development.
Finished Fabric Sourcing Procedure for Sampling
Mill Week:
Fabric sourcing department organises a Mill week in which invitation is send to
different fabric suppliers. Their timings are set and Slots are booked accordingly.
Suppliers' Presentation:
Here suppliers' present their samples and are selected by Fabric. Product and Design
team.
Hanger Call:
Hanger call is made for suppliers for selected samples. First hanger in 15 days,
shipment by post.
Hanger Collection is shared with Product and Design team.
Yardages Request:
With request form yardages are requested by Product and Design team with Design
Number.

Yardages Call to Suppliers:

Suppliers are asked for sending yardages of 10 mtrs with Quotations for Bulk price.
Garment Sampling:
The yardages are received and send to sampling department for making samples
which are being presented to buyers in Trade

show

Further fabric sourcing is done for bulk production of all the styles booked in the

Trade show
Finished Fabric Sourcing Procedure for Bulk Production

Research for fabric suppliers:

Fabric sourcing department research for available suppliers and shortlist some of
them to work with for their fabrics.
Send fabric specification:
Sourcing department sends fabric sample or fabric specifications such as count and
construction, GSM, weave structure and fabric width to the supplier.
Price negotiation and payment terms:
Fabric sourcing department requests for the best price quote from fabric supplier
and negotiate for the best price. Negotiation is also done for delivery lead time.
Once cost negotiation is done, factory confirm supplier for lap-dip development.
Raising fabric requisition note:
Factory merchants calculate average fabric consumption and raise fabric requisition
note for the complete order. Fabric requisition note is approved by authorized
person and handed over to sourcing department for further processing.
Raise PO for bulk order:
Fabric sourcing department sends purchase order (PO) to the fabric supplier. In

some cases supplier ask for advanced payment (part of total invoice).
Received fabric delivery:
Fabric supplier sends fabric to the garment manufacturing factory fabric store in roll
form.
Quality and quantity checking:
Once fabrics are received, factory checks for quantity and quality of the fabric
whether those are as per requirement. Quality means fabric properties such as
shrinkage, dimensional stability, fabric weaving and processing defects etc. In case
there is variation factory intimate fabric supplier and send back for reprocessing if
required. Or raise a debit note if fabric quality is poor than the quality ordered at the
time of contract.
Fabric approval for bulk production:
Fabrics passed in quality inspection and testing are stored for bulk cutting.
Payment is sent to the fabric supplier:
Factory releases final payment for the fabric supplier once fabric is found ok.

Fabric Vendors
Raymond
Rishabh Apparel Pvt.Ltd.
Grasim Textile
Trinity Tex Trade
PD Fshion Pvt.Ltd.
Auro Textile
Mandhana Group
R.C. Velvet
Nahar Industries
Arvind
Aditya Birla Group

Jagannath
Banswara
Bharat Vijay Mills
Soktas

Fabrics used
Polyester
Cotton
PolyesterViscose
Terylene Rayon
PolyesterWool
PC Blend
Cotton Lycra
Linen
Wool
Denim

FABRIC & TRIMMS SOURCING

Trims are sourced by the units themselves and the fabric is sourced by the
Fabric sourcing department.
The fabric procurement process takes place twice a year during the mill week.
The mill presentation is followed by the process of yardage call from suppliers
as 8-10 meters per color/design for sampling.
40% of fabric is imported from international sources while 60% sourced from
domestic suppliers.
Lead time for fabric procurement from domestic suppliers is 45-60 days and
from international suppliers is taken about 100 days.

Standard Operating Procedure For Bulk Fabrics

For Fabric Suppliers
Signed Copy of Sales Contract against each orde with fabric delivery date
(Ex-Mill for Domestic and On Board date for Imported Fabrics)
Count/Construction/Content/Width/GSM.

Orde Time and Action Plan dates for Khaki followed by other categories.
Orde Status Chart on basis of agreed T & A every 15 days.
Pre-shipment sample (2/3 mtr for Shirt/Khaki/DLT/CS/Urban) each color to
MCCPL for shade and hand-feel approval for bulk approval.

Post Pre-shipment sample approved Garment Vendor (Nominated) will be

requiring (5 mtr each shade for Shirts & 10 mtr each shade for
KH/DLT/CS/LX Trouser/LX CS from bulk) fabric each color via courier to
vendor before bulk fabric dispatch.

Initial yardages (FPR) requirement across category will be 10 mtr each

shade through courier in case fabric shipped to MCCPL.

Fabric test and Fabric Inspection reports through mail from Supplier to
Garment Vendor copy to MCCPL before bulk dispatch(In case Nominated
vendor) else to MCCPL.

Detailed packing list with roll wise quantity to garment vendor copy to
MCCPL before dispatch.

Bulk fabrics to ship on receipt of PO from Garment vendor in case of

Nominated vendor (within 3 days)

 No part dispatches or color wise dispatches are allowed until prior written
approval and confirmation.

For nominated vendor P/I Copy to garment vendor Copy to MCCPL and
after dispatch original firs copy of commercial Invoice copy for Finance
Department.

LR copy or B/L copy via mail to garment vendor in case of Nominated

vendor else to MCCPL.

Bank to Bank documents submission courier detail for all import fabrics.
Purchase order number on every commercial invoice.
For MCCPL
Review and approval of Pre-shipment samlple(Visual) as per agreed
format/Signed off by PD fabric and category.

Mill fabric Inspection and test reports to review by fabric & shared to warehouse & Quality with comments.

MOQ per color have to be clearly defined as per Capacity Planning

Format and tolerances required to be agreed in case order not meeting
defined MOQ per color.

Pre Informing Stores on Fabric Receipt Plan on 25

th

of every month for the

proceeding month.

Plan Uniform Landing of fabrics at the stores in Line with The available
storage and checking capacities.

 Mill Visit by Gabric Q.A. to monitor T & A milestone dates.

Quality issue on fabric has to be resolved within 4 days.
All Sea Shipments minimum two shipping line options always to faciliate
and catch agreed On Board Dates.

Suppliers SWOT abd OTIF report and analysis on the basis of:
Delivery
Price
Quality
Adherence of agreed SOP(Point No.1,3,5&7 from Suppliers' SOP List)
Capacity Planning / Allocation and Booking as per agreed format and
adherence to fabric ordering as per OC dates.
Upon arrival of fabrics checking instruction to fabric ware-house as per
priority set by Planning/Product.
Freeze acceptance on bulk fabrics allowed after receipt of Inspection
Reports from ware-house and Q.A. team.

TESTING:-

Testing on bulk Domestic and Import fabric have to be done on Preshipment sample received from Supplier.
Fabrics are allowed to ship from mill after receipt of Pass test reports.
Fabric and Qualtiy Team need to ensure and monitor timely submission and
reports from Lab to ensure no delay in bulk dispatches.
All Style all colors to rest from BUREAU VERITAS Dark shade for full

package and Balance for additional color way as per our Protocol with
validity period of three month each report.
Repeat Styles in same colors/Same season are exempted for testing
provided previous report is Passing with no major failure.
Repeat style with new add on color need to test for additional color ways.
Fail Parameter has to be signed jointly by Fabric/Category Manager &
Quality Head & GM before using the fabric.
Re-testing of any failed parameter has to be done at the cost of supplier or
alternatively if supplier agrees he may re-test from BUREAU VERITAS.

Blackberrys Inspection Manual

INTRODUCTION
Textiles used in the manufacturing of Blackberrys' Apparel products are required to
be inspected, in conducting this inspection Blackberrys uses the Four Point System
as a method of grading defetcs.

INSPECTION POLICY
It is the responsibility of both the textile supplier and garment manufacturer to
inspect all textiles to ensure their compilance with Blackberrys standards.
The textile Purchase Order allows a tolerance of 5% on the order quantity.
Failure to fulfill the order quantity commitment may require that the textile mill
accept financial responsibility of unused trimms, quota or any other related damages
resulting from fabric shortages.

INSPECTION PROCEDURE
Information regarding a fabric purchase order shall be recorded using the metric
system. This applies to all aspects of the program including order quality, roll
length, construction, cuttable width, overall width and weight.
Penalty Point Evaluation
Defects in both the warp/weft directions will be assigned points using the
following criteria:
Defects upto 3 inches : 1 point
Defects > 3 inch < 6 inch: 2 points
Defects > 6 inch < 9 inch: 3 points
Defects >9 inches
: 4 points

Penalty Point Grading

The following penalty point grading standards are to be used for inspections of
all Fabrics.
Running Defects
Any running defect will be assigned four (4) penalty points for each mtr
in which the defect occurs.
Any eoll having a running defetc through more than three continuous
mtrs shall be rejected, regard less of point count.
Fabric Weight
Fabric weight will be measured under climate controlled conditions at
20'C with R.H.65% when possible. A tolerance of 5% will be allowed
for all fabrics.
Fabric Odour
No roll Shall be accepted that exhibits objectionable odours.
Holes and Dropped Stitches
A hole consists of two or more broken yarns and is consiered to be a
defect.
A hole or a Dropped stitch, regardless of size, shall be penalised a
maximum of four points.
Roll Length
Min roll length allowed is 20 mtr quantity below 50 mtr roll length
dhould not exceed more than 10% of total quantity for 100% cotton and
cotton blends.
Roll Identification
The mill must attach identification tags to the end of each roll, on the
outside of the wrapping, adjacent to the tube.
The tag must contain the folloeing information: Vendor Purchase Order Number

Fibre Contents
Fabrics Description and Textile Mill Reference Number
Color Name and Number
Shade group Identifier
Number of metres
Roll number
Finished Width

DESIGN DEPARTMENT
The Company has an in-house design team with qualified professionals from
leading fashion technology institutes. The companys focus on product innovation
and design has been instrumental in introduction of new styles and concepts in the
Indian market such as khakis, wrinkle free trousers, open length trousers, hanging
delivery of garments and sewing accessories with the garments.
The design department is at the Head Office. The tech pack & sketch (shirts) is sent
to CAD department at KLPL and AVM. The sampling and pattern making for all the
styles in a season is done here, and then sent to different manufacturers for SMS
production.
Every season at least 1000 designs are made for the different Blackberry
collections. Blackberry has a number of designers for its different collections.

TECHNICAL DESIGN DEPARTMENT

The technical design team is a part of the design department in Blackberrys. This
department works from the Head Office. The technical designers are the garment
engineers of the company. They are responsible for preparing the technical details of
the design created by the designer. Following are the functions carried out by the
Technical design team:
After presentation of the new theme, fashion forecasting is carried out. The
designers then prepare a range of apparels (along with a raw tech pack) on the basis
of the forecast to be launched in the upcoming seasons.
The sampling department prepares the Salesman Samples (also known as
SMS).These samples are sent to the buyers/dealers to understand the market
demand. These buyers/dealers then place the order for products at the time of
booking event.
Here comes the role of the Tech. design team.
They provide technical specifications for each design and finalize the Tech
pack prepared by the design team.
The average fabric consumption is determined.
Trim card is prepared that contains details of the respective trims to be used in
various styles and blocks.
Preparing PIE (Product Information Exchange) sheet that includes the tech
pack, trim card, mini marker average, combo fabric, etc.
Bill of Material (BOM) is prepared in RAMCO software.
A meeting takes place, Product Information Exchange (PIE) meeting where the
product order, styles, fabrics, trims etc. are discussed. The production managers then
decide if it is possible and feasible to carry out In-house production.
If yes, proto samples are made, 2 for each BLOCK and substitute similar
fabrics and trims can be used. Material Requisite Planning (MRP) is also
carried out in the unit.
If not, another PIE meeting is organized, costing is discussed with the
outsourcing department and the vendor is chosen and proto samples are
prepared.
Tech design receives the samples for approval. The proto sample contains a

blue seal. The issues are reported to the sampling department (if any) along
with the specifications. These issues need to be corrected before the actual
production starts and approved again.
After approval, the size set or First Production Report (FPR) is prepared and
sent for approval to the Tech design team.
The product is reviewed according to the design. Green/red seal are put to
these samples.
Green- approved
Red-rejected (with specifications)
Function of this department terminates with this.
The actual production starts after receiving the approval.
Blackberrys works 90% on pull demand basis and 10% push demand basis.

WAREHOUSE
Warehouse is situated at Manesar, Gurgaon
It operates for all the manufacturing units (In-house as well as Outhouse) of
Blackberrys.
Workforce 250
Software used RAMCO & WMS (Warehouse Management System)
Shelf life of a garment is approximately 4 months
25% of the total fabric is inspected using 4 POINT Inspection System for
defects
Fabric is inspected mainly for Color Center to Selvedge within width & Color
Shade Variation from each roll
Garments are inspected for Measurements, Labels, Appearance and
Construction
For finished goods, LEVEL I is carried out for Inhouse and LEVEL II for
Outsourced Goods
GSM, Count & Shrinkage tests are done in the warehouse

1. Before Bulk Received 10 Mts of yardage goes for FPT(Fabric performance

Test) according to fabric and demand of customers.
2. At ware-house(Fabric Store) Unloading of material is done with details ExRoll Mts against bill and cutting details GRN is prepared.
3. Cutting sample is matched with the Standard given by the Head Office of
MCCPL.
4. Inspection is done as per the SOP (4 Points inspection system is followed)
Shirting-25% of total the total lot/Material goes for inspection if there is rejection
then 50% or 100% materials may go under the inspection.
Others- 50% of the total lot/Material goes for inspection if there is rejection then
100% materials are inspected.
Note: - Rejection is done on the basis of Total Points/Square Mts (It should be less
than 28)
5. Inspection Report is prepared is prepared of all the checked goods and is
shared with concern people.
6. CV(Color Variations) and CS (centre to selvedge variation) are checked :CV- Color variation is checked for all the rolls and if variation is there, sample is
send for the approval (Ex- Printed fabrics are having more CV than rest others)
CS- Centre to selvedge variation is checked of those rolls only which are taken for
random inspection.
7. If GRN is cleared material moves forward for garment manufacturing.

Inhouse Manufacturing units

KRISHNA LABELS PVT. LTD.
Plot No.162, Udyog Vihar, Phase 1, Gurgaon [Suits and Jackets]
Plot No.82, Udyog Vihar, Phase 1, Gurgaon [Trousers]
AVM PRINT PACK PVT. LTD.
Plot No.62-63, , Khandsa [Bottoms(DLT/KH)]
Plot No.130, Udyog Vihar, Phase 1, Gurgaon [Shirts]

KRISHNA LABELS PVT. LTD.

Established in 2001,
Major Product - Mens Jacket (2 Lines)
Production capacity- 30000 Jackets per month
Total Area 20000sq.ft.
Work Force 830
Factory Head - Md. Niamat Ulla
General Manager - Mr. Sanjay Anand
Plot No.162, Udyog Vihar, Phase 1,
Gurgaon
Activities:
Fabric Store
Fabric Inspection
Cutting
CAD
Stickering
Fusing
Sewing top part-Jackets only

Plot No.82, Udyog Vihar, Phase 1,

Gurgaon
Activities:
Sewing Trousers
Waist coats for three pieces suits
Sampling for all except Coat Suit
Entire Finishing:-Trousers
Jackets
Coats
Packing and Delivery to Ware-house

Plant Layout
Basement
Part Change Table

Pinning
Table

Band
Knife
Machine

Bundling
Table

Stickering
Table

Cut Part
Checking

Lay
Table 4

Stickering
Table

Lay
Table 1

Lay
Table 2

Fusing
Setting
Table

Lay
Table 3

Lay
Table 6
(Fusing)

Lay
Table 5
(Lining)

Fusing
Machine
Fusing
Setting
Table
Fusing
Machine

Dispatch
To 82

Store
Fabric Inspection

Personnel
Department

Ground Floor
macpi
Checking
Sleeve
Vent making
Macpi

Sleeve
Attach

Sleeve
Lining
Attach

Checking

Checking
Collar

Shoulder
Pad
Attach

Bartack

Buttonhole
Stitch

Checking
Collar
Sleeve
Attach
Checking
Sleeve
Fall

Checking
Final
Garment

Buttonhole
Stitch

PickStitch
@Front Collar
Edge

Checking
Final

Sleeve
Final

Assembly I
PickStitch
@Front Collar
Edge
Collar
Attach
PickStitch
@Front Collar
Edge

Bartack

Pick Stitch
Checking

Conference
Room

Pantry

Factory
Head's
Office

CAD

Reception

Accounts

First Floor
Input
O/S-I and II
Out
Shell

APW
For
OS-I

Chest
Piece
Attach

Checking
Front

Front
Edge
Checking

Lapel
Peak
Pressing
Bridal
Tape
Stitch
Body Roll

Checking
Side
Shoulder
Seam

Under
Body
Back
Press

Preparatory
Collar

Flap making
AutoJig

Shell and
Lining
Attach

Lapel
Edge
Trimming

Body Roll

Lapel
Peak
Pressing

Preparatory
Back
I and II
Checking
Ready
Collar

Bridal
Tape
Stitch

Front
Edge
Checking

Input
Back
I and II

IE
Department

Conference Room

Director's Room

Under
Body
Back
Press

Second Floor
Input
Sleeve
I and II

Sleeve
Seam Burst
Open

Sleeve Preparation
Button
Attach

Imitation
Buttonhole

Output
Sleeve
Input
Chest Piece

Button
Attach

Lining II

Sleeve
Seam Burst
Open

APW for
Lining II

Sleeve
Buck Press

Checking
Ready
Sleeve
Sleeve
Buck Press

Output
Chest Piece

Input for Lining II

APW
For
OS-II

Input for Lining I

Lining I

Checking
Front &
Back
D-Bartack

Checking
Final

Checking
Lining
Front

D-Bartack
Checking
Final

Chest
Piece
Attach

Company Work Flow

A File is sent by Sourcing
Department
Tech Design Department receives
the file
Complete Study of file
File is transferred to Sampling
Department
Sampling Stage
Sewing
If Sample gets
approved

Not
Approved

In-line checking
Final checking

If approved

Pressing

PIE meeting

Final touch up & Finishing

Purchase order is prepared

Final inspection

Fabric & trims received

Packaging & Dispatch

Fabric inspection
Fabric issued to the cutting according
to requirement

Cutting of the fabric

Role of Departments
Fabric Sourcing
Trimms Sourcing

Sourcing
Department
Sampling
Department

Samples confirmation

Purchase
Department

Orders materials on order

confirmation

Fabric and
Trimms Store
Cutting
Department
Re -cutting

Sewing
Department

Alteration

Receives goods,
Inspects and stores

Issues goods from store

Spreading
Cutting
Bundling
Ticketing
Inspection

Sleeve
Lining
Collar
Prep. Back
Outer Shell-A
Outer Shell-B
Assembly

Finishing
Department

Pressing
Piece Packing
Inspection

Warehouse
Packing
Container Loading

SHIPMENT TO
Stores

SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
BASIC WORK FLOW;
In any garment industry, the sampling department is one of the most important
departments and it plays a vital in the uplifting of a unit.
Sampling department directly co-ordinates with the sourcing and production
department. Sampling is done to see how the product will look like when produced
in bulk and to check whether there are any discrepancies in the pattern are made
according to the buyers specification.
Sales team procures order from the buyer. The Tech Design team sends spec
sheet, sketches, fabric details, embellishment details, stitch type etc to the Product
team. Product team files this information along with the details regarding costing,
average, proto, fit, correction, size set and approval in to a style package and hands
it over to the Sampling department head.
Sampling is the product development stage. It is a process by which a small
number of garments are made so as to match the buyer requirement and to get
approval from the designers so as to start off the production. The sampled garments
represent the accuracy of the patterns and quality of production skills and
techniques. The samples not only serve the purpose of communicating correctly
with the buyer regarding their styles and products, but it also helps to calculate the
fabric consumption along with that of thread and other accessories used.
It is different from bulk production as here each tailor is multi skilled. This
department makes samples on the basis of specifications and requirements sent by
the designer in the tech pack.

TYPES OF SAMPLES
Proto Sample:
Fit Sample:
Pilot Run Sample:
Pre Production Sample:
Pre Size set:
Size Set:
TOP Sample:
Shipment Sample:
Sales Sample:

1. Proto Sample: This samples are proto type of new design created by designers.
This is the first sample in product development stage. Proto sample is made to
communicate the design of a style or a line or to present garment structure. In proto
samples fit and fabric detailing is not been considered.
2. FIT Sample: Once proto sample is approved, FIT is being made with actual
measurement. Modification on the pattern is done to get desired fit of the garment.
FIT is one of the most important factor to be considered during sample
development. FIT sample is being tested on live model or Dress form for to verify
garment fit and fall.
3. Salesman Sample: Salesman samples are made to put on display in the retail
showroom. Salesman sample (SMS) are displayed for assessing customer's feedback
and according to customers response buyers forecast demand of an particular style.
Sales samples are made with actual fabric and trims and accessories. Buyer pays for
salesman samples to the developer.

4. Size set Sample: The purpose of the size set is to check fit of the garment in
different sizes. In this stage factory develops samples in multiple sizes. Generally,
buyers ask size set sample in jump sizes, like S, L, XXL. Buyer check size set
sample and give feedback to factory if anything need to be corrected.
5. Pre-production Sample: All the above samples are made in sampling
department. Buyer wants pre-production sample (PP sample) to be made in actual
production line, so that operators know what are they going to make. This sample is
made with actual fabric, trims and accessories and made by sewing line tailors. PP
sample must be approved by buyer or buying house merchants (technical persons)
prior to proceeding actual production.
6. Top of Production Sample (TOP sample): Once production is online, few
pieces is taken out in the middle of the production. Production pieces are sent to
buyer as TOP sample. All buyers does not asked for TOP sample. Purpose is to
cross-check whether factory is following PP sample specification or not.
7. Shipment Sample: When style is being finished and packed for shipment, 2-3
finished and packed pieces with all packing details are kept for future reference.
Shipment sample is kept by factory merchants and buyer's merchant. The approved
shipment is sent directly to warehouse and merchants at the buyer do not get garment
out of the shipment. That is why they keep shipment sample for future reference.

The Details Attached to the Garment Sample

After the confirmation of order, each sample sent to the designer has the following
details attached to it, with the help of a tag. It contains the details pertaining to both,
what the buyer has demanded and what supplement fabric/trim etc they have used
(if applicable).

Ref no.
Color
Fabric
Composition
Description
Quantity
Style no/ Size
Store

FABRIC STORE WORK FLOW

Fabric Inhouse
Fabric receive invoice/challan
Unloading after checking the quantity physically
Tally with supplier invoice for quantity
Goods Receipt Note(GRN)
Receive fabric in store
Forward fabric for inspection
Inspection report sends to the sourcing department
After comments reentry in the system with final comments if rejected or accepted
If accepted
Freeze in store
Modified SCO comes from MCCPL,exact SFA quantitiy
Factory generates Production Order for internal working
Issue against Production order to Cutting Department

FABRIC INSPECTION
Fabric is the main raw material for garment manufacturing and it involves 60-70%
of total garment cost. To ensure that only quality fabric is used in garments, factory
takes precautionary measures and set up fabric inspection department with qualified
personnel. Standard procedures of fabric inspection, preparing inspection report
following international or national standards are followed by MCCPL.
As per quality standards, prior to bulk production cutting, factory prepares
following three reports and takes approval from authorised person.
1. Fabric inspection report
2. Fabric shrinkage report
3. Shade band report for 100% fabric rolls.

The above three reports are submitted for approvals within 48 hours of fabric
inhouse. According to Standard procedures (SOP), initially only 10% of the fabric
rolls is inspected on 4-Point System. If there is any doubt on acceptance further 10%
of total fabric rolls are Inspected. Some manufactures prefer doing 100% fabric
inspection in order to get ensure that only quality fabric is cut and fed to the line.
During 100% inspection fabric inspectors mark all the defects so they can identify
them during spreading and replace the parts after cutting.
If fabric is cut without being inspected, complete responsibility will be on fabric
quality inspection department as it is a violation of a critical aspect. Reports are
submitted to PPC & the relevant sourcing department.
1. Fabric Inspection Report
Purpose: To decide acceptance or rejections of fabric roll (For Woven). Fabric
inspection is done using 4-point system. Inspection procedure has been explained in
the following table.

Activity
Requirement
1. Select rolls
Roll to be chosen at random
2. Check the roll as per
4 points system.
3. Give penalty points
for defects
4. Calculate index for Points / 100 sq. mtr =
each individual roll.
(Total points in roll *
39.37 * 100)/ (Total length
in mtr * width in inches)
5.

Calculate final
average index for the
total no. of rolls
inspected.
6. Decide acceptance or
reject of the fabric
Penalty Point Evaluation
Defects in both the wrap and weft directions for woven and course/wale directions
for knits are assigned point using the following criteria:
Points
1 Point
2 Point
3 Point
4 Point

Inches ()
Defects up to 3 inches
Defects > 3 inches < 6
inches
Defects > 6 inches < 9
inches
Defects > 9 inches

(mm)
Up to 75mm
Defects > 75mm<
150mm
Defects > 150mm<
230mm
Defects > 230mm

A continuous defect running 9 inches / 230mm or longer is assigned four points for
each meter that occurs within the shipment. Other important parameters to be
considered during fabric inspection are i) Length of the faults is to be measured in the warp or weft direction and the

direction in which the fault is longest is the fault direction. However when the warp
and weft length are same and when the penalty of the shorter direction is heavier,
take the fault of the direction in which the penalty is heavier.
ii) When the fault in the warp direction is over 1yd, the part which is over 1yd is
deemed as fault of the same kind of others.
iii) When two or more faults overlap, apply only the faults which penalty is the
heavier.
iv) When there are two or more faults within the length of 1yd and the penalty
points come over 4 points, the points over 4 points are not added.
v) The inspector needs to be at a distance of 3 feet away from the inspection table
and the linear speed of inspection not to be less than 0.1 meters per second when
inspection is done on fabric inspection machine.
Standards for Passing Fabric
Average index for inspected rolls not to exceed 28 points / 100yd
Maximum index for any roll not to exceed 40 points / 100yd
Centre to selvedge variation
A Layer of complete width is cut in the starting of roll . Further variation in color
shade from centre to selvedge is noted dowm. If found major CS then CSV marker
is used for marker making.
Colour Bleeding
Whwn touch by hand, fabric leaves color or color get attached to body moving over
it.

2. Fabric shade band report:

For styles those required garment washing, before and after wash blankets is
submitted ( 3 sets each ) covering all rolls and it is attached in the shade continuity
card .
A 100% shade band covering all rolls & all colors pertaining to a certain style /
Consignment is made and get approved prior to cutting of bulk Fabric.
Shade band preparation Process
No sooner the fabric is inhoused, the quality department collects fabric panels
representing all rolls within 6 hours from store.
Cut 6 inches from end of each roll. Join all panels by cover stitch in correct
grain line direction to be in a blanket form.
If the style is a non-wash program two sets is prepared.
If the style consists of a certain wash, then 4 blankets is prepared - 2 blankets
non-washed and 2 blankets with the exact approved wash of the style.
Once the shade bands are ready, dye lot or color segregation is done. If the
Shade Band consists of 2-3 different shades, such shades should be segregated
into families marked A, B, C Etc. A copy of the segregation of shades is
handed over to the store, cutting room, merchandising and production
departments. Stores will issue and cutting and production department will
proceed as per the segregated shades without getting mixed.

3. Fabric shrinkage report:

A 100% Shrinkage report is submitted for all styles and the washing shrinkage has
to be performed as per the wash type required for the bulk.
Garment fit is a very important factor in the purchase decision of the customer.

Misfit at any stage of the life of garment can lead to premature rejection and earn a
bad perception for the brand. A garment is supposed to be washed after every use
and expected to retain the same fit and appearance during the lifetime of the
garment. To fulfill this fabric has to be tested for dimensional stability. For this
shrinkage tests are carried out is order to manipulate the patterns in the same ratio to
avoid any measurement problems after garment washing.
Shrinkage Templates (25cm*25cm or 50cm*50cm) are used in industry to gauge the
shrinkage % directly.
Features of Shrinkage Template and Scale:
To determine directly the % dimensional change (shrinkage) in all types of
fabrics.
Fine calibrated Shrinkage Template with 25cm x 25cm" & 50cm" x 50cm"
benchmarks length-wise & width-wise.
Calibrated scale to evaluate shrinkage and stretch directly Up to 15%.
Two fine tipped black and yellow fabric markers are used for accurate marking
on light and dark colour fabrics.
How Shrinkage Template and Scale works?
The marking template should be placed on the specimen to be tested, making
sure that the fabric is in flat position before marking.
Hold the template firm, and carefully mark the fabric through the eight slots of
the template, to ensure that it does not move.
Now put the fabric in the washing machine or Dry Cleaning.
Dry the sample as per specified method. It can either be Line Dry or Flat Dry
or Tumble Dry.
To find the dimensional change read the Shrinkage/Stretch on 3 points on the
Wrap side and 3 points on Weft Side.
Get the mean value of wrap-wise and weft wise readings to get the Accurate
Shrinkage or Stretch.

Parameters checked in Fabric store

o Shade band
o Defects
o Center to selvage
o Shrinkage
o Face side approval
o Color fastness
o Shade swatch
o Nap direction
o Width

Most commonly found defects on fabric roll are:

o Foreign yarn
o Hole
o Missing yarn
o Shade Bar
o Contamination
o Different color yarn
o Knots
o Slubs
o Broken ends
o Broken pick
o Double end

o Floats
o Holes & cut
o Lashing in (pouring)
o Distorted weave
o Missing end
o Missing pick
o Oil mark/ stains
o Reed mark
o Slough off(mire effect)
o Shuttle smasho
oSnarls
oStitches
o Pin Mark
o Weft bar

PATTERN MAKING
A marker is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern pieces for sizes of a
specific style that are to be cut from in one spread.
Marker making is the process of determining a most efficient layout of pattern
pieces for a style, fabric and distribution of sizes. In manual marker making to make
an efficient marker one need time, skill and concentration. Marker making is mostly
done by CAD systems which give accuracy, increase control over variables and
reduces time required in making markers.
Marker efficiency is defined as a ratio of area of marker used in a garment and area
of total marker.
Marker efficiency is determined from fabric utilization, the percentage of total
fabric that is actually used in garment parts.
Marker efficiency and Fabric utilization is not same thing. In marker efficiency
calculation fabric wastage due to end bits and end loss is not included but in fabric
utilization calculation all kinds of fabric wastage are included.
Marker efficiency% = (Area of marker used for garments / Area of total
marker) * 100
Area of marker used for garments: In case of CAD marker, CAD system
automatically calculates total area of garment pattern pieces placed in a marker. So
you get area of marker that is consumed by garments from CAD system.
Total Marker Area: To calculate total marker area simply multiply marker length
by marker width.
In manual marker it is difficult to measure surface area of garments patterns in a
marker. You can use a mechanical device, Planimeter, to calculate the surface area
of pattern pieces from outlines of the pattern pieces.

COMPUTER AIDED DESIGN

Computer Aided Design (CAD) becomes an essential tool for pattern making and
related jobs in garment industry. In apparel industry CAD Software is used for
pattern making, Grading of pattern, marker making and digitizing manual patterns.
Pattern making
A pattern of general size (usually 40'' and42'' for Suit Jacket and 32'' for trousers ) is
made from the software AccuMark Pattern Design Software by Gerber Technology.
Digitizing
For manual patterns, an instrument named Digitiser is used for scanning the manual
patterns and save them on system.
Grading
The basic size which is saved on software is now graded to all different sizes which are
required for the style.
Marker making
Marker is planned as per size ratio. Accordingly Lay Length is decided as how many
pieces are to be cut by a single layer.
Plotter
The device which give print to the marker planned by software Optitex Pattern Design
Software by Optitex.

The markers made by the CAD department are for the following:
Shell Fabric
Body Lining
Sleeve Lining
Microdot Fusing
Lapel Fusing
Pocketing
CAD PROCESS FLOW
Sample Approval

Receive order sheet from Sourcing Department

Cut Order Plan is Prepared

According to Cut Order plan marker is made

Development of CAD Pattern

Marker is sent to cutting department

CUTTING DEPARTMENT
Garment production starts with the cutting process. In this process, fabric is being
cut into components (shapes or patterns of different garment parts, i.e. front, back,
sleeve, collar shapes etc.). In mass production multiple layers of fabrics are laid on a
table and large number of garments is being cut at a time. The laid fabric stack is
called as lay. The cutting process includes number of sub-processes and flow of the
processes is as following. Each process is briefly explained in the following.

Cutting department is responsible for cutting fabrics and feeding the sewing
department with cuttings. The cutting departments capacity is planned based on the
daily feeding requirement of the sewing lines. The cutting department is set up with
a cutting department head, cutters, spreaders, quality checkers and helpers for
sorting, ply numbering and bundling.

1. Pattern / Marker: According to the design and fit, patterns of different garment
parts are made on the pattern paper and cut into pattern pieces. For manual marker
these pattern pieces are used for marker making. On the other hand in CAD system
patterns are made in computer. Later using a plotter markers are made on sheet. In
the second case cutting department receive ready marker.
2. Cut ratio receiving: Prior to cutting, cutting department get a job sheet from
planning department or merchandiser or production manager that includes total
quantity of garment pieces to be cut, sizes ratio of the garments and colour-wise size
break up. According to the size and colour ratio cutting team prepare one marker or
multiple markers. Marker length and number of lay to be cut are planned in this
stage.
3. Fabric receiving: Fabric requirement for an order is calculated according to the
average consumption of the fabric from the marker. In case of multiple colour order,
colour wise requirement is made. Fabric department issue fabric to cutting against
the fabric requirement (generally requisition slip is used).
4. Fabric relaxation: This process is optional. Specially used for knits fabric.
During rolling of fabric it get stretched. So it is essential to bring the fabric on stable
form otherwise garment would shrink after making. To relax the fabric roll or thn is
opened and spread and kept for about 24 hours.
5. Spreading (Fabric Layering): In this stage fabric sheet is layered one above
another maintaining pre-defined maker length and correct ply tension. Fabric is
layered up to a certain height to avoid cutting quality problem. Spreading is done by
manual layering or automatic layering machine can be used. During layering of the
fabric, fabric edge is aligned at one side.
6. Marker Making: After layering of a lay, pre made paper patterns (or ready
markers made by plotter) are placed on the top layer of the lay. In manual marker
making, marking is done around each pattern shape using marking chalk. This
process is called as marker making. In a marker all garment components are placed.
7. Cutting: Lay is cut following the marked lines on the top of the lay. Cutting is
done using straight knife or other cutting means. In cutting process garment
component are separated. On the basis of pattern shape different cutting method/
machine are selected.

8. Numbering: Separated garment components are numbered to ensure that in

stitching all components from same layer are stitched together. It is important to
avoid shade variation in a garment. Between the cutting and sewing processes cut
components may be passed through other processes like printing and embroidery.
There is maximum chance of mixing of the components. If there is layer number in
each component then at the time of stitching only correct components will be
stitched together.
9. Sorting: According to production system (Make through, progressive bundle or
one piece flow system) cut components are sorted. In sorting all component of a
garment placed together. Size wise sorting and in case multiple colours are cut in a
single lay, colour wise sorting will be required.
10. Bundling: As per the production line requirement a certain number of pieces
with all component are tied together. This process is known as bundling. Each
bundle is marked with bundle number, style name, size number and quantity of
pieces in that bundle. At this stage cutting are ready to send to production line for
stitching.
End Bits
Before cutting, a fabric roll is opened and laid on the cutting table. The lay length is
set at certain length (known as marker length). The fabric at the end of each roll
which cant be laid on the marker due to short length of the fabric ply is called as
end bits. Remember it is not possible that you would get all rolls which length is
multiple of marker length.
End Loss
While layering fabric on the cutting table, cutting allowance is taken at the both
ends of the ply. The allowance of fabric in length is called end loss. End loss can be
also defined as length of fabric of a lay that dont get covered by marker.
By increasing marker length, fabric wastage due end loss can be reduced. Standard
cut allowance is 2-4 cm per layer depending on the fabric and cutting equipment to
be used.

SEWING DEPARTMENT
The production floor will receive the details like,
the style or the garment,
number of operators required,
the batch for which the style has to be installed,
any extra kinds of machines that are to be used for the particular style,
target for each day
Breakup of the production quantity.

Once the cut parts is received from the cutting and sorting section then the
parts are prepared and assembled according to the line that is planned. After the
assembling of the parts is done then there will be a line checking, where the shade
matching and the measurements are checked and sent.
During the process of garment making there exists two types of checking, they
are
In-process checking.
Endline checking. Here there exists both AQL audit and normal checking.
The garment making is divided into three different stages and at these three stages
the checking is done.
The flow of material in the production floor is through the bundle system and
each operator gets a bundle containing similar pieces and there will be about 15
pieces in each bundle and the operator completely finishes the job and sends it to the
next operator to do the next operation on them. Each bundle will contain same

component of different garments. The movement of the materials within the

operators in the batch/line is generally Chain motion which is followed. The
checking person will be present at a position where the garment is partially finished.
The supervisor plays a vital role in the production floor. He manages the
entire batch which is been allocated to them and they have the following functions
to perform,
1. They have to convey the proper stitching method to the operators.
2. Guide the operators when they face difficulty in making an operation and
teach them the most suitable and an easy method of performing the task.
3. Check if the entire operator in the batch/line is busy with the work being
allocated to them.
4. If the operator does not have any material to work on then the supervisor has
to get him/her their material and ask them to work.
5. Complain the production managers if the operators are not performing their
best.
6. Have to maintain a proper communication between the operators and the
management.
7. Should be in a position to tell the manager about each operators skill level
whenever asked for.
8. When any operator is on leave then the supervisor has to make sure who can
be a better person to fit into that vacant place.
9. At times the supervisor himself sits and performs the operation if necessary.
10.

The supervisor should be in good terms with all the operators by having

a friendly approach to them and also must make sure that none of them
create any trouble for the factory at any time.

The production managers help the planning department during planning or

allocating a particular line for the style by telling them the capacity of the line and
also telling them about the skills of the operators.

Start
Bulk Production
Cut parts received from
cutting
Sewing process begins
Assembly
In-Line
checking

End line checking & AQL

audit
Button & button hole/ Bar tack

Washing
Rough checking
Ironing
Final checking
Measurement checking
Tagging
Packing
FSA Audit
Auditing by buyer QA
Truck out

End

Stitching Operation
JACKET
Front
1. Dart Cutting
2. Dart StitchingSide panel Attach
3. Stitch press by Iron
4. 10mm cotton tape attach
5. Flap Pocket Bag & Bone Attach by APW m/c
6. Bone Tucking
7. Wallet attach
8. Bone and wallet press
9. Wallet Zigzag Stitch
10. Pocket Bag Closing
11. Chest-piece Attach
12. Checking
13. Under Body Buck Press, Stapling
14. Cut extra part
15. Blind Stitch
16. Bridal Tape Attach
Back
1. Centre Back Stitch
2. Vent Making
3. Stay Stitch
Collar
1. Collar Band Stitch
2. Seam Open / Bursting and Fusing attach
3. Felt Impression Stitch
4. Zigzag Stitch
5. Collar point Stitch
6. Final Pressing
7. Checking

 Body
1. Side Stitch
2. Shoulder Stitch
3. Seam Bursting
4. Bottom Fold
5. Bottom Fold (2)
6. Checking
7. Matching the number of lining and body shell
8. Body Roll
9. Cutting extra part
10. Lapel Edge Trimming
11. Lapel Peak Pressing
12. Final Pressing
13. Front Edge checking
Sleeve
1. Mock Button hole
2. Hand Arm Stitch
3. Vent Making
4. Vent Creasing
5. Button Attach
6. Forarm Stitch
Sleeve Lining
1. Hand Arm Stitch
2. For arm Stitch
Sleeve Shell and Lining Match
Final Pressing
Elbow Taking
Final Checking

 Lining
Front
1. Piping attach to lining
2. Lining attach to French Facing
3. Side panel attach
4. Facing Press
5. Saddle Stitch
6. Pocket wallet by APW (Lining Pocket Bone Making)
7. Press
8. Bone Taking
9. Wash Care and Bar Code Attach
10. Brand Label, Fit Label
11. Pocket Closing, Triangular Flap Attach
Back
1. Centre Stitch
Front and Back Number Matching and Checking
Side and Shoulder StitchingPress
D-Bartack
Final Checking
Assembly
1. Body input
2. Body to Collar Matching
3. Collar Attach (Collar Hold)
4. Collar to Neck Lining Attach
5. Collar Zigzag
6. Saddle Stitch
7. Collar Final Press
8. Collar Checking
9. Vent Making
10. Bottom Close
11. Lapel Rolling
12. Body to Sleeve Matching
13. Sleeve Attach
14. Shoulder Pad and Sleeve Head Roll Attach
15. Pad Taking

16.
17.
18.
19.
20.

ArmHole to Sleeve Lining Close

Checking
Button Hole
Pick Stitch
Ready Garments send for Audit
TROUSERS

Back
1. Dart+Sticker Stitch
2. Panel 3-Thread Overlock
3. Back Panel Fusing
4. Lower Pocket Bag Attach
5. Panel fold+ Numbering matching+ Overlock extra thread trimm
6. APW
7. Bone Taking
8. Bone Pressing
9. Jet Piece Attach
10. Back Pocket Bag 1/8 Stitch (For cutter m/c)
11. Back Pocket Bag+ 1/4 Top Stitch
12. Upper Jet piece attach
13. Pocket Bag Hold Stitch
14. Final Checking
Front
1. Front Sticker Stitch+ Double Fly Lining Attach
2. Jet Piece Attach (Ficing)
3. Front Pocket Bag 1/8 Stitch
4. Pocket Bag Reverse
5. Panel Fusing
6. Pocket Bag 1/4 Top Stitch + Opening Marking
7. Pocket Bag Close
8. Sticker Remove and Numbering Matching
9. Pocket Bag Matching Two Panel
10. 1/8 Top Stitch by Presser Boot
11. Upper Jet piece Hold Stitch

12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.

Front Pocket Opening taking

Front Panel Overlock
Wash Care and Barecode Attach
Single Fly and Zipper Attach
Right Side Zip Attach to Right Panel
Final Checking

Belt
1. 10mm Cutting
2. Waist Band Cotton Attach through two folder with Stiffner
3. Belt Zigzag
Loop
1. Loop fusing attach
2. Blind Hem, Loop Making with a stiffner
3. Fusing m/c
Assembly
1. Back and Front Matching
2. Side seam and in seam stitch
3. Side seam Bursting
4. Croch Seam Stitch
5. Four Loop Attach
6. Belt Matching to Panel
7. Belt Attach Left Side
8. Belt Attach to Right Side
9. Double Fly Stitch (Lining)
10. Belt Pressing
11. Double Fly Stitch (Final)
12. J Stitch
13. Seat Joint
14. Seat Seam Stitch
15. CrochPiece Attach
16. Seat seam Bursting
17. Inline Checking

18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.
26.
27.
28.

Waist Band Cotton Stitch to Centre

Button hole
Button Marking
Button Attach
Blind hemm Belt Finish
First round Bartack
Six Loop Taking
Bottom Overlock (4 Thread)
Loop Bartack
Final Bartack
Final Checking
WAIST-COAT

Front
1. Dart marking
2. Dart making
3. Dart Pressing
4. Saddle Stitch
5. APW Bone making
6. Bone taking
7. Bone Pressing
8. Pocket Making
9. Pocket hold Stitching
10. Checking
Back Lining
1. Dart Making
2. Centre Joint
3. Centre Press
4. Chalk marking
5. Chalk making
Fashion Lining
1. Bottom attach

2. Fashion Pressing
3. Label Making
Assembly
1. front Shell and Fashion attach
2. Stickering opening
3. Front Press
4. Back Lining and Front attach
5. Side Stitch
6. Arm hole Stitch
7. Shoulder Joint
8. Neck attach
9. Piece Turn
10. Checking
11. Button hole marking
12. Button hole making
13. Bartack on joints and Button hole
14. Mouth Closing
15. Final Checking

FINISHING DEPARTMENT

Sequence of Operation
JACKET

Garments
From
Stitching

Master
Collar

Armhole
Blocking

Packaging

Inspection
for minor
alterations

Sleeve Press

Lining Press

Auditing

Back Press

Front Press

Shoulder
Press

Button
Marking &
Button
Attach

Sleeve vent
tack & fit
label attach

Lapel Rolling

Final
Rechecking

Final touch
up

TROUSER

Seam
Bursting

Pocket
Bag,Front
Fly Pressing

Legger
operation

Centre
Front Crease

Final
Checking

Final Touch
up

Topper Area

Double
Legger

WAIST-COAT
Bottom
Press

Shoulder &
Arm Hole
Pressing

Lining Press

Final Touch
up

PACKING DEPARTMENT
Indivdual piece finishing and send to packing departments
Pairing is done, according to number given during layering in Cutting Department
{For preventing Color Shade variations}
Example :
For 40'' size Jacket
40'' size Waist coat
34'' siz Trouser
First Trouser Pairing
and for Three Piece, then Waist-coat
Barcode Attaching
(2/3 barcodes are attached in sewing)
Price tag or price sticker is attached here
Scanning of Barcode and Price Tag
Wrong piece pairing is detected here
(That means 40'' size Jacket is paired with 34'' sizd Trouser or not)
(Cutting Size ratio also being detected as the number of pieces cut for a particular
size are equal to number of pieces scanned or not)
Send For Audit when Total SFA Quantity is reached
Untill all PO quantity pieces are not scanned, it is not send for Audit
If PASS, then FINAL Packing
DISPATCH to ware-house Manesar against Challan

QUALITY DEPARTMENT

Checkers being appointed in every sections

Like in Cutting, for parts inspection
In Stitching Floor, for Front, Back, Body Shell, Shoulder Sleeve, Lining
Checked parts assembled in Assembly
Final Checking in Assembly who checks every piece
Send for AQL Audit
If passed, then send to Finishing
Checking by Checkers
Button Attach
Checking by Checkers
AQL,Audit
Send to Ware-house
Audit (Final)
Showroom
(If found fail at any place, it is sent back for alteration)

Inline Checking
1st CHECKER
Line: Body Preparatory
Final Checking
(After complete preparation of Front)
Left Front
Wallet Shape, Width, Thread, Zigzag Stitch and Pick Stitch
Dart Dimple, waviness & 15mm Distance from Bone
Bone Taki & Bone Width
Flap shape, Pick Stitch, Lining visiblity & Flap mouth sealed
Front Panel Seam & CV problem
Right Front
Dart
Bone
Flap
Front Panel
Turn reverse Side
Sticker Number of Both Front
Seam margin of Dart, Front Panel, Seam & Pkt Bag
Removing Strength of Bridal tape on-off
Fusing, Bottom, Vent, Front edge peak/ notch point
Bottom round marking lapel peak point
2nd CHECKER
Line: Body Preparatory
Final Checking
(After complete preparation of Outshell )
Front Edge Checking/ Lapel Front Checker
Front Edge Shape & Edge Press
Lapel Peak / Point Up & Down
Front Edge Length Both Front
20mm Bridal Tape & Blind Stitch Impression

3rd CHECKER
Line: Sleeve
Final Checking
(After complete preparation of sleeve)
Sticker Checking of Both pair
Sleeve Hand arm Checking
Vent Checking
Sleeve Button & Mock Kaj Checking
Sleeve Lining Attach
Sleeve Forarm Checking
Sleeve Lining without folder
Lining Back tack & Seam margin
4th CHECKER
Line: Lining Preparatory
Final Checking
(After complete preparation of lining )
Both Front of Lining Keep on Checking Table
Left Front upward direction
Left Front Checking
Checking Facing Shell Fabric Problem, French Lining,
Piping Width & Saddle Stitch
L.P Bone Taki Pkt & Bag Closing
Size & Barcode Label
Facing Panel Seam
Right Front Checking
L.P Bone
Triangular Flap & Kaj
Main Label
Reverse Side
In Side Sticker Number
Pkt Bag & Seam Margining
Centre Back Seam Checking & Back Matching

5th CHECKER
Line: Assembly
Final Checking
(After complete preparation of collar )
Edge of Collar, Zigzag Stitch
Shoulder Point, Collar, Lapel point & Shape
Check Lining & Saddle Stitch
Put on Dummy
Collar Felt Visiblity & Lapel Setting
Collar Height & Extra Fullness Under Lapel

6th CHECKER
Line: Assembly
Final Checking
(After complete preparation of Side and Shoulder )
Pieces put on Checking Table Upward Direction
Checking Stay Stitch on Lapel Break Point
12mm away from Edge there should be a middle notch
Open From Reverse Side
Side Vent
Bottom Round
Bridal Tape
Chest piece Blind Stitch on Bridal Tape
Turn to Right Side
Visiblity of Blind Stitch
Hanged on Hanger
Shoulder Seam Fullness
Basting neck, Armhole, 5mm Cotton Tape
Pieces turn to Back side
Centre back, Centre seam, Side seam
Loose seam fullness
CV issues, Fabric problems

7th CHECKER
Line: Assembly
Final Checking
(After complete preparation of Sleeve Fall)
Seam Allowance, Notch matching, Fullness Equalisation
Equal Sleeve Fall Left & Right CV Sleeve to Body
Sleeve Form Seam Equal Form Panel Seam to both side
Fullness on Sleeve Crown
Pad Attach
Pad Attach stotch not visible
2mm gap Stitch to Stitch
Sleeve Roll & Pad Shoulder not fold
Cotton Tape Shoulder not visible
8th CHECKER
Line: Assembly
FINAL CHECKING
Reverse Garment put on hanger & Keep on Table back side up
Collar Loop, Back Pleet, Armhole of Back side Sleeve Lining Handarm Stitch
Back centre seam, Side seam, Bottom taking, Bottom Lining Close
Pieces turn to Front Side
Right Side
Front armhole Sleeve Lining from & Sleeve Closing
Facing seam, Saddle Stitch, L.P Bone Bartack, Triangular Flap & Kaj
Main Label from Bottom Closing, Bottom taking
Left Side
Checking Size & Barcode label (Same as right side)
Pieces turn to Right Side with Full insert by Hand
Check Left Front
Peak, Wallet, Dart, Flap, Bone, Bottom Round
Check Rightt Front
Collar & lapel shape (Same as Right Front)

Turn to Back Side

Back Collar, Armhole Side seam
Back Centre seam, Vent sleeve, Vent up & down, Sleeve button kaj
Centre Left Front Peak, Wallet, Dart, Flap, Bone, Bottom Round
Check size & PO with Barcode Label
FINAL CHECKER'S CHECKING POINTS & INSTRUCTIONS
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.

Check Front Edge Top Stitch or Pick Stitch at Front & Collar Edge
Check Sleeve by Putting Hand in Both Left & Right Sleeve
Check Sleeve Inner Lining Seam of Armhole, Sleeve Lining Closing Seam
Check Bottom Hem Lining Seam Loose and Skip Stitch
Check Body Lining Shorter or Longer than Body Shell vertically
Check Sleeve Lining Shorter or Longer than Body Sleeve vertically
Check Inside Lining Pocket Label and Back Lining Checking
Pass or OK pieces must be signed by Final Checkers
Without Final Checkers sign, garment piece cannor pass in Final QA Audit

Final Checking
Statistical Quality Control works on AQL- Acceptance Quality Level
Statistical Quality Control (SQC) is the term used to describe the set of statistical
tools used by quality professionals. SQC is used to analyze the quality problems and
solve them.
Statistical quality control refers to the use of statistical methods in the monitoring
and maintaining of the quality of products and services.
All the tools of SQC are helpful in evaluating the quality of services. SQC uses
different tools to analyze quality problem.
1) Descriptive Statistics
2) Statistical Process Control (SPC)
3) Acceptance Sampling
The acceptable quality limit (AQL) is the worst tolerable process average (mean)
in percentage or ratio that is still considered acceptable; that is, it is at an acceptable
quality level. Closely related terms are the rejectable quality limit and rejectable
quality level (RQL). In a quality control procedure, a process is said to be at an
acceptable quality level if the appropriate statistic used to construct a control chart
does not fall outside the bounds of the acceptable quality limits. Otherwise, the
process is said to be at a rejectable control level.

SAMPLE SIZE
TOTAL NO OF SAMPLE
READY FOR
INSPECTION
51-90
91-150
151-280
281-500
501-1200
1201-3200
3201-10000
10001-35000
35001-150000
150001-50000
500001+More

LEVEL
I
5
8
13
20
32
50
80
125
200
315
500

II
13
20
32
50
80
125
200
315
500
800
1250

2.5
III
20
32
50
80
125
200
315
500
800
1250
2000

I
0
0
1
1
2
3
5
7
10
14
21

II
1
1
2
3
5
7
10
14
21
21
21

III
1
2
3
5
7
10
14
21
21
21
21

AQL Standard discoverd by United States of America

Standard according to maximum number of deffective piece allowed .
MCCPL use 2.5 Leve; which include major and minor defective units.
Example:
Suppose for 51-90 pieces, For 2.5 Level, 1 major and 1 minor defects are allowed to
be passed.

Sample size also decide by Level I,II,III.

For 51-90 pieces, Level I 5 pieces are checked
Level II 13 pieces are checked
Level III 20 pieces are checked
Not all the pieces are checked, because it is very time consuming
Level I recommend for Inline or Final Inspection
Level II Final Random Sample
Level III Special Case
Parameters:
1. Trimms according to Green Seal Standard (according to BOM)
2. Colour Matching
3. Measurement of Garments
4. Workmanship (Stitching)
5. Fabric Defects
INSTRUMENTS:
Slant table
Flouroscent Lights
Inch Tape

Top Five Defects in Checking reports

1. Broken & Skip pick Stitch in garments
2. Yarn Pull inside Lining
3. Collar to back Stitch out
4. Inner edge visible outerside
5. Fullness at Sleeve area
6. Sleeve vent up and down
7. Sleeve mock kaj not even
8. Collar & back centre stitch out
9. Dart Shape wavy
10. Lapel Shape wavy
11. Needle mark in Garments
12. Lapel pick stitch angle not identical
13. Needle mark cut pick stitch area
14. Inside D-bartack placement out
15. Inside main label observes slant
16. Collar felt visible at collar front area
17. Broken pick stitch at lapel area
18. Yarn pull at sleeve button area
19. Back vent observed little bit up and dowm
20. Lapel pick stitch angle not identical both side
21. Pick stitch observed excess at bottom area
22. Uncut thread visible from inside lining
23. Pick stitch wavy at dart, collar & lapel area
24. Yarn pull at front dart pick stitch area
25. Broken inside saddle stitch
26. Waist bone pkt width found not proper
27. Puckering at collar upper area
28. Fabric defect at back panel
29. Collar cut and sew with observed 8 mm but required 10mm
30. Inside bone closing raw stitch obserevd very poor
31. Ditch at armhole back area
32. Sleeve button gap found not idetical
33. Color variations
34. Presser mark at collar area
35. Bartack density not proper

Two types of quality checks are done:

Attribute Visible quality checking
Variable Measurement
Defect Classification
The client defines the AQL and the maximum number of defective goods allowed in
the Sample Size.Defects Detected during visual inspection are usually classified
within 3 categories:
Critical, Major & Minor
CRITICAL -defined as dangers or safety issues which may cause injury or
faults which contravene current legislation
MAJOR-defined as faults likely to cause the product to breakdown or result in
customer complaints and / or returns
MINOR- doesnt reduce the beyond the defined quality standard products.
An individual with defect(s) is called defective sample. In the inspection process,
one defective sample is counted one for the most serious defect, no matter how
many defects are there in the said sample.

The Blackberrys quality manual specifies what points are minor, major or critical in
a defect classification check-list together with the inspection criteria and product
specification.

INDUSTIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT

Industrial engineering is a branch of engineering which deals with the
optimization of complex processes, systems or organisations. Industrial engineers
work to eliminate waste of time, money, materials, man-hours, machine time,
energy and other resources that do not generate value.
they figure out how to do things better, they engineer processes and systems that
improve quality and productivity.
Industrial engineering is concerned with the development, improvement, and
implementation of integrated systems of people, money, knowledge, information,
equipment, energy, materials, analysis and synthesis, as well as the mathematical,
physical and social sciences together with the principles and methods of engineering
design to specify, predict, and evaluate the results to be obtained from such systems
or processes. While industrial engineering is a longstanding engineering discipline
subject to (and eligible for) professional engineering licensure in most jurisdictions,
its underlying concepts overlap considerably with certain business-oriented
disciplines such as operations management.

PROCESS
-The work of an IE department starts with sample re-engineering at the proto-stage
so as to get to best possible construction and the use of folders and attachments in
the style i.e. Doing proper R&D for order.
-Target setting- IE Department has to find out exactly how many machines and
manpower is needed in the style. For this time motion study is done using the proper
method and rating is done.
-Final operation bulletin and layout- After motion study the final operation
breakdown and layout is made with which the number of manpower and machines
required to meet the targets are known. This operation bulletin and layout has to be
cross checked by I.E head and then it is passed to production manager.
-Make line plan as per order.
-Line setting- Line setting is the implementation of the layout and operation
bulletin, which is done in conjunction with line in charge, supervisor, mechanic,
Q.A and technician.
-Bottle neck identification- After line setting the next job is to know the bottleneck
of the line due which targets are not met and balance line accordingly.
-Use of modern equipment- To know and develop attachments and folders, which
can be used on production floors to enhance productivity and also to make sure the
proper utilization of machines and equipment on the production floor.
FUNCTIONS
-Increase efficiency and productivity.
-Reduce cost per garment setting SAM for each operation.
-Performing method improvement by doing time and motion study of various
operators and operations.
-Projects- Besides all the above activities we are also handle projects on plant
layouts, settings up

WORKING
-Maintain excel sheets and every detail related to time study, motion study and
scanning of work done by each operator.
-Take follow up of machines folders attachments, dies, profiles whether they are in
house or not before the production starts and to be in correct with concerned
persons for that and to make sure everything in house before the production.
Reports for:
Target setting
Operation bulletin
Line balancing
Time motion study & method study
Operation breakdown
Monitoring production & provide solutions
Check the hourly production
-The efficiency reports deduced by I.E department from Excel sheets are:
Divisional Efficiency report
Factory Efficiency
The formulae used in calculation are:
Productivity (per operator) = Output / No. Of operators used
Efficiency = (SAM x Production / No. Of operators used x 480) x 100
Reports Generated
Operation breakdown with rate
Piece rate report
Efficiency report
Bundle list
SMV for operations
Order-wise follow-up

Operation-wise follow-up
Operator wise follow-up
Line wise follow-up
Industrial engineering department is the brain of any industry and garment industry
is no other exception. The industrial engineering department is responsible for all
the factory operations. The operation of this department starts from the receipt of the
order from the HO. Once the customers place the order the merchandise department
forwards the order to the industrial engineering department for the processing. They
then prepare the CM cost (cut make cost). This includes Operational run:
SAM (standard allocated minute) for each individual operation
Cost per machine hour is calculated
Standard achievable efficiency, etc are calculated and forwarded back to the
merchandise department
The operation continues once the order is confirmed. The Approved Production
Sample is given to the department, here the sequence of the process is studied, and
the necessary suggestions for changes are made if required. And also in the receipt
of the confirmed order the complete operation bulletin is prepared, along with all the
attachments, guidelines and files the documents are forwarded to the production
department with all other accessories.
They also have certain functions like going to the line while the batch is set, during
menu style loading and so on. They ensure the process is running smoothly the go
for continues checking till the first product comes out. After that they will have a
periodic check for line balancing exercise for productivity improvement. They also
monitor the manpower allotment. The finally the reports generate and the
performance is evaluated as per the actual target and the achievement and the
same report is sent to the management. The industrial engineering department also
under takes projects, setting up lines maintenance &utility, R&D activities etc

MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT
The department is responsible for all the maintenance activities in the organization.
This department does all sorts of maintenance, the machine maintenance, utility
equipment maintenance, and other maintenance in the lines.
TYPES OF MAINTENANCE FOLLOWED
1. PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE
The maintenance department follows 3 codes, under preventive
maintenance: Code-A The operator checks the machines with every 15 days regularly.
Code-B The fitters checks all the machines with an interval of 30 days regularly.
Code-C - The senior mechanics checks all the machines in every line with an
interval of every 2 months regularly.
2. MACHINE BREAKDOWN MAINTENANCE
The machines are corrected, as soon as the machine breaks down by the
fitters and the senior mechanics. The head Mechanic Mr. Anwar ensures the uptime
of machines and looks after the health of machinery.
When a fitter or a mechanic maintains or corrects a machine, he makes a
maintenance note, where he notes the details of his maintenance job.
Working:
Servicing of machine.
Checking of Boilers for steam.
Electricity supplyif power is gone then starting of generator.
Building maintenance.
Oil change.
Replacement of defective parts
Servicing of Motor.
Checking of Motor.

PERSONNEL DEPARTMENT
The personnel department is an important department in relation to the employees
benefits, recruitment, and documentation purpose.
Objectives:
To maintain the personnel documents.
To ensure employees benefits timely
To recruit new staff, employees etc.
To receive and solve employees grievances.
Daily/Monthly Reports Generation
Attendance report
Absenteeism report
Missing punch report
Over-time report
Leave report
Wages & salary report
Performance report
Time-loss report etc.
PERSONNEL Department Facilities
Continuous recruitment
Insurance facility
First-aid / medical facilities
Bonus plans
Paid holidays

POWER DISTRIBUTION
All Power is supplied by HARYANA STATE ELECTRICITY BOARD (HSEB) and
is generated by generator of BLACKBERRYS.
Power is distributed by DB box on every Floor.
There are six DB boxes on a floor, three for front and three for right.

DB
Ceiling
(Single fitting tube,
Fan, Cooler)

Tubelight fittings
(Double)

Sewing m/c

There is one MCB for three sewing machines.

For Air Conditioners, TPN 100A MCB
Ground Floor Ducting Separate panel
Maximum Consumption Sewing machineries
Total Consumption of complete plant = 275 A
160 watt @ 8.30
Generator electricity 1:2
for 10:20
electricity:rupees
ILLUMINATION SYSTEMS
In Stitching Floors, Philips Tubelights with 1 foot gap between each tubelight

RECORD MAINTENANCE
1. TNA-Time and Action Plan
It includes information about the upcoming styles to be produced according to the
Time and Action Calendar as well as production capacity provided by the factory to
the PPC department.
AW15-Autumn Winter
SS15-Summer Spring
2. SFA-Sales Forecast Analysis
It is prepared based on the sales forecast data provided by each store throughout the
country. Quantities of production are decided accordingly.
Each month is divided into 2 halves: M1 and M2.
3. PIE Sheet
It is prepared by the Technical Design department.
It consists of fabric and trim details.
4. FPR-First Production Report
It states the beginning of sampling and is prepared by the Production department.
Yardage is sent from the warehouse for the same.
Yardage is the fabric used for production of samples. It is usually 10-15 meters of
fabric. In case of garments that requires washing; samples from each roll are cut and
sent for shrinkage test to the warehouse and the rest of the fabric is used for FPR.
5. SCO- Subcontract Job Order
It is prepared by the Production Planning and Control department.
Thread approval takes place.
6. FPR (Approval or Rejection)
It states whether the samples have passed or failed.
Problems (if any) are identified to be corrected and changes to be made

STORE ACTIVITY & INVENTORY

Material - Inhouse
Inventory
Issue to respective deptt. On requisition slip
Stock Inventory 6-7 Lakhs
Working:
Requisition Slip
Quotation
Purchase Order to Vendor
Material received
Issue to deptt.
Stock being physically checked after every 7-10 days.
Small Machinery parts like needles, thread guider, looper (that are regularly used)
are regulaly kept.
List of materials in store:
Packed garment cartons
Fabric rolls
Various types of Fusing
Sewing threads
Embroidery threads
Buttons
Needles
Hangers
Neck sizer
Price tag
Hang tag
Collar Gatta Patti
Butter paper
Collar traveler
Butterfly

Belly band
Layer paper
Paper foam
Presser foot
Bobbin
Hook set
Blades
Emery belt
Cutter blade
Ink roll
Thermostat
Pins
Pulley cover
Machine belt
Fan regulator
Marking chalk
Stickers
Spray
Adhesive tape
Seal strings
Size labels
Button spacer
PO completion books
Requisition slips
Gate passes
MP sheets
Cutting summary book
Sticker record sheet
Extra time work
OD slips
Registers

Intra and inter-department communication formats

Landline phones: used for inter-departmental communication within the unit
as well as with other units.
LAN system: used for e-mails.
ERP
Challan Book
Safety and Security Department
Fire alarms (in process)
Fire extinguisher 12-14
First-aid facility
Normal generic medicines available for small injuries, fever, cough cold
Emergency call for severe injury
In Cutting, Gloves are provided to prevent injury
Masks are given to avoid breathing problems
Reports generation
(staff,house keeping) - Attendance
Checking of dispatching &in housing items

Use of Computers in Various Department

A computer is a device that can be instructed to carry out an arbitrary set of
arithmetic or logical operations automatically. Their ability to follow a sequence of
operations, called progam, make computers very flexible and popular. Such
computers are used as contol systems for a very wide variety of industrial and
consumer devices.
Garments industry is taking high advatages of computers
1. Store: Quotations
Purchase Order
Bill of Vendors
Inventory
2. Human Resource: Salary, Attendance
Quotations for working of admin related
3. Cutting: Intello cut Software
Tablet for Lay planning (saving paper)
4. Stitching: Daily Report Making of Number of pieces manufactured
Daily Quality Report (DQR)
5. Accounts: All works related to Finance are done on computers
6. CAD: Digitising
Grading
Marker making by computer
Printing by Plotter

Project Title :
To Study the Identified Suits n Jacket and Khaki styles of AW'16 season
from start to end from Imported and Domestic Fabrics
Objectives
Objective means the purpose of this project. The objectives of this project are as
follows:
To achieve a thorough knowldege of Working of a Garment Industry.
Concepts developed about Garments manufacturing.
Comparison between class room learning and practical learning
To know about the management and technical process of apparel industry.
To know the management Procedure in Garments Industry.
To mark a comment over the whole Internship Report.
To comment over the fabrics sourced by different suppliers.
Make easy data for SWOT analysis of fabric suppliers.
To identify CUT to PACK ratio for different styles.
To find out the cause of rejection of garment pieces.
Introduction
For every industry or business, to get increased sales and better name among
consumers and fellow companies it is important to maintain a level of quality. In the
garment industry quality control is practiced right from the initial stage of sourcing
raw material to the stage of the final finished garment. For apparel industry product
quality is calculated in terms of quality of fibers, yarn, fabric construction, color
fastness, surface designs and the final finished garment products. However quality
expectations for manufacturing are related to the customer segments and retail
outlets.
There are number of factors on which quality fitness of garment industry is
based such as Performance
Reliability
Durability
Visuals
Perceived quality of the garment

 Overall look
Fit and feel
Right formation of the garment
Fall of the garment
Physical properties
Color fastness
Finishing properties
Quality needs to be defined in terms of a particular framework of cost. There are
certain quality related problems in garment manufacturing that should not be
overlooked:
1.SEWING DEFECTS- Like open seam, wrong stitching techniques used, same
color garment but usage of different color thread on the garment, miss out of
stitches in between, creasing of the garment, erroneous thread tension and raw edges
are some sewing defects that could occur so should be taken care of.
2.COLOR DEFECTS-Color defects that could occur are difference of the final color
of the garment produced to the sample shown, accessories used are of wrong color
combination and mismatching of the dyes among the pieces.
3.SIZING DEFECTS-Wrong gradation of sizes,, difference in measurement of a
garment part from other, for example, if the sleeve XL size is attached to body of L
size.
4.GARMENT DEFECTS-During manufacturing process defects could occur like
faulty zippers, irregular hemming, loose buttons, raw edges, improper button holes,
uneven parts, inappropriate trimming and difference in the fabric colors.

Areas to cover in Project:

SFA Order Quantity
Order Average
Fabric Width (Finish/Cutable)
BOM averages
Cutting averages
Marker Used (Plain/CSV)
Fabric Inspection Report
Number of Garments cut
Number of Garments stitched
Number of Garments Finished
Final approval pieces shipped to ware-house
Rejected pieces if any with reasons

Scope of Study:
Fabric inhouse , GRN, Store
Fabric Inspection
Cutting
Stitching
Washing
Prefinising
Finishing
Packing

Styles of AW'16 which are being tracked during project

BP-KYLE
BT-TONBRIDGE
BP-WEBLYPL
BP-KEN
UT-CROSBY

BP-KYLE
FABRIC DETAILS

Supplier

Auro Textile

Blend

98% Cotton/ 2% Spandex

Count

50com*20Spx

Construction

226*96

GSM

250

Width

55''

Finish

LA + Soft

Type

P/D

Weave

4/1 Satin

FABRIC INHOUSE DATE

Expected: 4th June,16

Actual: 7th May,16

Fabric Quantity (in mts)

SFA Quantity

SCO Quantity

Required

Ordered

Actual

Choco Brown

1078

1130

1120

869

761

Sand Khakhi

1768

1857

1935

1426

1328

Dew Beige

1339

1406

1465

1080

1003

Ash Grey

1107

1163

1215

893

831

Midnight Blue

1993

2092

2192

1607

1506

Jet Black

2241

2353

2461

1807

1692

SFA Month- Jul16M1

FABRIC INSPECTION REPORT
Width

Points per sq. mtr

Remarks

Committed

Actual

Choco Brown

55''

52.5''

7.83

5 checked, 4 unchecked

Sand Khakhi

55''

52''

10.6

7 checked, 8 unchecked

Dew Beige

55''

51.5''

9.29

6 checked, 8 unchecked

Ash Grey

55''

52''

7.5

5 checked, 7 unchecked

Midnight Blue

55''

52.5

9.28

9 checked, 10 unchecked

Jet Black

55''

52''

8.43

10 checked,10 unchecked

AVERAGES
Order Avg

BOM Avg

FPR Stage Avg

CAD Avg

Final Avg

1.24 at 55''

1.24

1.30 at 52''

1.28

1.46

Remarks

Cutting Issue Date : 10th June.16 with PO-2043

Number of Garment pieces
SCO Qty

Actual Cut

Sent to Ware-house
Fresh

Prod Cat B

Prod Cat D

Finish Cat A Finish Cat B

Choco Brown 761

783

743

36

Sand Khakhi

1328

1370

1308

10

49

Dew Beige

1003

1012

916

87

Ash Grey

831

822

757

60

Midnight Blue 1506

1556

1480

63

Jet Black

1719

1649

64

1692

PACK TO CUT RATIO

Garments pcs cut

Fresh

Pack to Cut Ratio (%)

Choco Brown

783

743

94.89

Sand Khakhi

1370

1308

95.47

Dew Beige

1012

916

90.51

Ash Grey

822

757

92.09

Midnight Blue

1556

1480

95.12

Jet Black

1719

1649

95.93

BT-TONBRIDGE
FABRIC DETAILS

Supplier

R.C.Velvet

Blend

98% Cotton/ 2% Spandex

Count

40x30st+2/40's

Construction

148*138

GSM

270

Width

52''-53''

Finish

Soft

Type

P/D

Weave

Corduroy

FABRIC INHOUSE DATE

Expected: 3rd June,16

Actual: 4th June,16

Fabric Quantity (in mts)

Jet Black

Required

Ordered

Actual

3915.41

4111

4187.75

SFA Quantity

SCO Quantity

3083

2684

FABRIC INSPECTION REPORT

Width
Jet Black

Committed

Actual

52''

52''

Points per sq. mtr

Remarks

12.11

31 checked,13 unchecked

SFAMonth -JulM1
AVERAGES
Order Avg

BOM Avg

FPR Stage Avg

CAD Avg

Final Avg

1.27 at 56''

1.27

1.35 at 53''

1.35

1.35

Remarks

Cutting Issue Date : 17th June.16 with PO-2040

Number of Garment pieces
SCO Qty

Actual Cut

Sent to Ware-house
Fresh

Jet Black

2684

2827

Prod Cat B

2654

Prod Cat D

Finish Cat A Finish Cat B

10

52

111

PACK TO CUT RATIO

Jet Black

Garments pcs cut

Fresh

Pack to Cut Ratio (%)

2827

2654

94.94

BP-WEBLYPL
FABRIC DETAILS

Supplier

Auro Textile

Blend

100% Cotton

Count

2/60's*30's

Construction

184*100

GSM

235

Width

55''

Finish

LA + Soft

Type

P/D

Weave

Dobby

FABRIC INHOUSE DATE

Expected: 27th May,16

Actual: 4th May,16

Fabric Quantity (in mts)

SFA Quantity

SCO Quantity

Required

Ordered

Actual

Dew Beige

1297..2

1362

1421

940

964

Jet Black

1331.7

1398

1346

965

911

Sand Khakhi

1124.7

1180

1180

815

799

True Navy

1313.76

1378

1309

952

886

FABRIC INSPECTION REPORT

Width

Points per sq. mtr

Remarks

Committed

Actual

Dew Beige

55''

56'

6.46

5 checked, 6unchecked

Jet Black

55''

56'

11.7

6checked, 5 unchecked

Sand Khakhi

55''

56''

13.44

5 checked, 6unchecked

True Navy

55''

56'

8.91

5 checked, 5 unchecked

AVERAGES
Order Avg

BOM Avg

FPR Stage Avg

CAD Avg

Final Avg

1.38t 55''

1.23

1.4 at 56''

1.4

1.4025

Remarks

Cutting Issue Date : 27thMay,16 PO-2025

Number of Garment pieces
SCO Qty

Actual Cut

Sent to Ware-house
Fresh

Prod Cat B

Prod Cat D

Finish Cat A Finish Cat B

Dew Beige

964

944

883

15

13

33

Jet Black

911

888

790

16

74

Sand Khakhi

799

778

706

12

53

True Navy

886

867

794

11

57

PACK TO CUT RATIO

Garments pcs cut

Fresh

Pack to Cut Ratio (%)

Dew Beige

944

883

93.54

Jet Black

888

790

88.96

Sand Khakhi

778

706

90.75

True Navy

867

794

91.58

BP-KEN
FABRIC DETAILS

Supplier

Nahar Industries

Blend

C/SP 98/2

Count

30's*20's

Construction

174*78

GSM

250

Width

55''

Finish

Peach

Type

P/D

Weave

3/1 Twill

FABRIC INHOUSE DATE

Expected: 3rd June,16

Actual: 18th May,16

Fabric Quantity (in mts)

Jet Black

Required

Ordered

Actual

2988

2989

2892

SFA Quantity

SCO Quantity

2197

1965

FABRIC INSPECTION REPORT

Width

Points per sq. mtr

Remarks

Committed Actual
Black

55''

54.5''

27.63

SFAMonth -May16M2

32 rolls checked
Contamination (Foreign Article)

Marker-CSV
AVERAGES

Order Avg

BOM Avg

FPR Stage Avg

CAD Avg

Final Avg

1.238 at 55''

1.23

1.37 at 56''

1.37

1.37

Remarks

Cutting Issue Date : 14th June.16 with PO-2047

Number of Garment pieces
SCO Qty
Black

1965

Actual Cut
2002

Sent to Ware-house
Fresh

Prod Cat B

Prod Cat D

1778

12

Finish Cat A Finish Cat B

203

PACK TO CUT RATIO

Black

Garments pcs cut

Fresh

Pack to Cut Ratio (%)

2002

1778

88.81

UT-CROSBY
FABRIC DETAILS

Supplier

Arvind Limited

Blend

96.5 % Cotton + 3.5% Lycra

Count

40S CC X 20 SK+70D

Construction

214*99

GSM

265

Width

54''

Finish

Carbon

Type

P/D

Weave

4/1 Satin

FABRIC INHOUSE DATE

Expected: 2nd June,16

Actual: 18th May,16

Fabric Quantity (in mts)

SFA Quantity

SCO Quantity

Required

Ordered

Actual

Neutral Green

1060.8

1114

1138

816

830

Oyster Khakhi

1690

1780

1831

1300

1334

FABRIC INSPECTION REPORT

Width

Points per sq. mtr

Remarks

Committed

Actual

Neutral Green

54''

52''

12.31

7checked, 8 unchecked

Oyster Khakhi

54''

52''

9.76

10checked, 11 unchecked

AVERAGES
Order Avg

BOM Avg

FPR Stage Avg

CAD Avg

Final Avg

1.30 at 52''

1.30

1.37 at 51''

1.30

1.30

Remarks

Cutting Issue Date : 27thMay,16 PO-2025

Number of Garment pieces
SCO Qty

Actual Cut

Sent to Ware-house
Fresh

Neutral Green 830

840

669

Oyster Khakhi 1334

1346

1102

Prod Cat B
2

Prod Cat D

Finish Cat A Finish Cat B

11

54

106

16

216

PACK TO CUT RATIO

Garments pcs cut

Fresh

Pack to Cut Ratio (%)

Neutral Green

840

669

79.64

Oyster Khakhi

1346

1102

81.87

FINDINGS
Why SCO Quantity varies from SFA Quantity ?
SFA Qty is calculated by required fabric divided by BOM average, but SCO Qty
calculated by PPC is Actual Fabric received divided by FPR stage average.
These are varied so much because Tech Design doesn't add Shrinkage in BOM and
the actual fabric have a lot of variation due to shrinkage, defects and width.
Why Averages Changes ?
Defects : More than Wastage Tolerance, More part change
Shrinkage: More Fabric Shrink, more Average as the measurement of size must be
equal to the standard norms, so avg consumption is increased to achieve required
size.Also Tech Design doesn't add shrinkage in BOM
Width: Width is indirectly proportional to Average.
Width increase Average decrease,
Width decrease Average increase

Causes of Rejections
Production Cat B: Minor Defects like Belt CV, Needle mark in Bottom area, Yarn
pull, Bartack Fault, Button Hole, Weaving, cut by scissor, Stain
Production Cat D: Major Defetcs which cannot be altered, or no fabric available for
alteration,So the pieces are unstitched and panels are send unstitched to ware-house.
Finish Cat A: Rejected piece as per Brand Standard but cannot be identified by
Customers. Faults in Bottom, Measurement variation. These pieces are sold in
VALUE SALE.
Finish Cat B: Major Defects After washing. It can be observed by Customer. These
include Fabric Defects. Cuts, Holes, Big stains, Needle marks, Leg Twisting,
Weaving, Major CV. These pieces are sold in Surplus Sale.

Comparision among Styles

PACK TO CUT RATIO %
BP-KYLE

94.37

BT-TONBRIDGE

93.88

BP-WEBLYPL

91.26

BP-KEN

88.81

UT-CROSBY

81.02

CUT PIECE TO SFA QTY %

BP-KYLE

94.53

BT-TONBRIDGE

91.70

BP-WEBLYPL

94.69

BP-KEN

91.12

UT-CROSBY

103.31

FRESH V/S SFA QTY %

BP-KYLE

89.21

BT-TONBRIDGE

86.08

BP-WEBLYPL

86.41

BP-KEN

80.93

UT-CROSBY

83.70

Recommendations
Fabric Inhouse Date: Fabric must come on the prescribed date. Otherwise they
disturb the Prod Planning of Factory, also difficult to deliver in SFA month
Stock Increase
Early Payment
Floor Space needed
Inventory increase
Research on Capacity of Supplier's Production
If found Fabric Defective, it must not be Freezed, But should send a Debit note to
Fabric Vendor. Because it will lead to a very high number of garment rejection.
More strict parameters should be set for Fabric Inspection, so that no defetcs are
passed on to higher stage. As maximum rejection in Finishing is due to Fabric
problems like hole and weaving.
Inline Checkers should not be under Production control, They should not be
Production bounded of 60pcs/hr or such that.
For Higher Quality and Less Rejection in Garment Stage, strict parameters must
be set in Inline Checking because there part change is an easy task as compared to
Final Garment Checking.
Skilled Workmanship should be taught as a higher proportion of Rejection in
Garment stage is due to needle marks, cuts, Oil stain
For Minimising Color variation:
Fabric Inspection
Preparing Shade band
Communicate with clear information
Fabric Layering
CSV Marker
Numbering of layers
Bundling movement in Sewing
Number matching and Material handling

For minimising Leg Twisting:

Quadrant Cutting
Continuous Pair Spreading
Face to Face (Pair Back Spreading)
Cutting- Operator should not cuts off line from the marker or tilts knife,
resulting in over-sizing, or short or long panels.
Proper Sewing Cycle: No miss alignment
Sewing Panels Cut in the Same Direction
Washing Don't overload washing machines or don't stretch and
twist garments while removing the garments from the washing machine.
Fabric must be conditioned for 48 hrs before cutting.

WHY ARE WE LOSING SFA QUANTITY ?

SFA Quantity = Required Fabric
BOM Consumption
The ordered fabric is somewhat higher than the required fabric. Also the actual
fabric received is higher . Then also company is not able to meet SFA Quantity.
The reason behind this is BOM consumption,
Tech Design gives averages on the pattern marker.
They do not add other factors such as Defects, Shrinkage and Width which varies
very widely in the same style or also in the different rolls of same lot.
So for more Cut pcs to SFA Qty ratio, BOM consumption or averages given by Tech
Design should add the other factors like wastage, defects, width and shrinkage
because if these are added at the very initial stage, there will be no loss in SFA Qty
further the size ratio will also be distributed equally as required.
To blaze a trail

THANKYOU!