Surfactants, Emulsifiers

and Gelling Agents range

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Surfactants, Emulsifiers and Gelling Agents

Surfactants, co-surfactants, emulsifiers, coemulsifiers and gelling agents are used in
almost all cosmetic products. The selection
of these ingredients very much depends on
whether the formulation is natural/organic
or synthetic, the performance required and
product category.
We at Infinity Ingredients are pleased to
summarise the materials we have for this
product category below.

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Surfactants & Co-Surfactants

Dermosoft decalact liquid

(INCI: Sodium Caproyl/Lauroyl Lactylate;

Triethylcitrate) is a low viscous convenience
blend based on Dermosoft decalact for
easy handling with analogous antimicrobial
properties.
Recommended use level: 0.7 1.2%

Dermofeel G 10 DI

(INCI: Polyglyceryl-10 Diisostearate) is a

non-ionic surfactant made from natural raw
materials.
Recommended use level: 1 10%

Dermofeel G 5 DO

(INCI: Polyglyceryl-5 Dioleate) is a non-ionic

surfactant made from natural raw materials.
Recommended use level: 1 10%

Dermofeel G 5 L

(INCI: Polyglyceryl-5 Laurate) is a coemulsifier made from natural raw materials

with excellent cosmetic properties. Due to
its excellent good eye and skin compatibility,
its pleasant skin-feel and outstanding
detergence, Dermofeel G 5 L can be used
for baby care products and facial cleansing,
as well as a solubiliser for alcohol-free
solutions (i.e. perfumes), and for natural bath
oils.
Recommended use level: 1 2%

Dermofeel G 5 O

(INCI: Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate) is a non-ionic

surfactant made from natural raw materials.
Recommended use level: 1 6%

Dermofeel G 6 CY

(INCI: Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate) is a multipurpose, non-ionic surfactant. It is an

excellent oil solubiliser with good wetting
properties. Made from renewable raw
materials, it is used as food additive and is
fully bio-degradable.
Recommended use level: 1 3%
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Dermofeel G 10 LW

(INCI: Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Aqua) is a

co-emulsifier made from natural raw materials
with excellent cosmetic properties in form of
a 50% watery solution. Due to its excellent
eye and skin compatibility, its pleasant skinfeel and outstanding detergence, Dermofeel
G 10 LW can be used for baby care products
and face cleansing, as well as an emulsifier
for low-viscosity O/W-emulsions and roll-on
emulsions.
Recommended use level: 1 2%

Dermosoft GMC

(INCI: Glyceryl Caprate) is a multi-functional

cosmetic raw material that acts as fatting,
wetting, moisturising, and co-emulsifying
agent. It is very skin friendly and effective
for the biological stabilisation against yeast
and bacteria. It can be incorporated into the
either the oil- or water-phase.
Recommended use level: 0.5 1%

Dermosoft GMCY

(INCI: Glyceryl Caprylate) is a skin friendly

multi-functional cosmetic raw material which
acts as a fatting, wetting, moisturising, and
co-emulsifying agent. Also it is effective for
biological stabilisation against yeast and
bacteria and can be incorporated into the oilor water-phase. Why not try this material in a
PEG-free self-emulsifying bath oil?
Recommended use level: 0.3 1%

Dermosoft Octiol

(INCI: Caprylyl Glycol) is a multi-functional

additive which can be used as a viscosity
regulating and wetting agent. Its compatibility
with many cosmetic ingredients and its pHindependent broad efficacy against germs
allow for the use in rinse-off-products and
emulsions.
Recommended use level: 0.3 1%

Dermosoft SLL

(INCI: Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate) is a coemulsifier and stabilisation agent for foams
which is useful for a wide range of cosmetics.
It can be added to boost preservative
efficacy against gram-positive bacteria and
yeast.
Recommended use level: 0.5 0.8%

Emulmetik

(INCI: Lecithin/ Hydrogenated Lecithin)

are natural Lecithins and Phospholipids
with various Phosphatidylcholine contents.
Used as co-emulsifiers, wetting agents or
active ingredients, they improve all types
of formulation with a unique sensorial and
natural approach. Emulmetik 320 increases
the longevity of fragrance and enables the
fragrance level to be reduced (good for
allergens). See the Lucas Meyer Emulsion
de Parfum concept that shows enhanced
fragrance longevity (even after washing).
EmulmetikTM is naturally compliant (if using
essential oils) and provides an ultra-light
texture. Emulmetik 930 is best for wipes,
make-up removal and the reduction of pore
size.
Recommended use level: 0.25 - 15%

Specifeel EM

(INCI: Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Sodium

Cocoamphoacetate, Lauryl Glucoside,
Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, C12-C13
Alkyl Lactate). Specifeel EM is ideal for
formulating very mild toiletry products;
resulting formulas are transparent with a
pleasant creamy foam and good viscosity.
Skin is less irritated, as the superficial barrier
is not completely damaged during washing.
Specifeel EM is a specially formulated

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base that can be used immediately by a

simple dilution with water (as easy as 50%50%) to formulate instant toiletries. The use
of preservatives is also reduced or even
eliminated thanks to its self-preserving
nature.
Recommended usage level: 25 - 50%

Specifeel SolPlus

(INCI: Trideceth-9, PEG-40 Hydrogenated

Castor Oil, Polysorbate 20). Effective at low
doses, Specifeel SolPlus solubilises high
percentages of perfumes, essential, vegetal or
synthetic oils and lipo-soluble preservatives in
water-based products.
Recommended use level: 0.5 - 7%

Symbiosolv XC

(INCI: Caprylyl/Capryl Wheat Bran/Straw

Glycosides, Aqua, Fusel Wheat Bran/Straw
Glycosides, Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate, Sodium
Cocoyl Glutamate, Glyceryl Caprylate)
consists of a mixture of surfactants and
wetting agents that are all naturally derived
and show excellent performance for
solubilisation. It can be employed in a variety
of cosmetic products. It yields transparent
solutions of most perfume oils and essential
oils in aqueous formulations, making it
invaluable for tonics and oral care products.
Symbiosolv XC does not contain any
alkoxylated species. Therefore it is PEG and
PPG-free. In comparison to the industrys
gold standard (PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor
Oil) Symbiosolv XC showed a superior
performance.
Recommended use level: 1 3%

Emulsifiers & Co-Emulsifiers O/W

HLB values are the stoichiometric value and relationship between the lipophilic and
hydrophilic parts. In summary:
HLB 3 8 = W/O
HLB 8 -15 = O/W
HLB 11 15 = light skin feel
HLB > 15 = solubilisers and co-emulsifiers such as G10L and G10 LW
Amisol Soft

(INCI: Behenyl Alcohol (and) Glyceryl

Stearate (and) Lecithin (and) Glycine Soja
(Soybean) Sterols) is an optimised blend of
Phospholipids, Phytosterols and vegetable
Lipids which forms lamellar O/W emulsions
for soft applications. This Biomimetic
structure is particularly suitable for sensitive
or stressed skins. Amisol Soft maintains the
protective function of the Stratum corneum,
reduces TEWL and optimises hydration. Ideal
for sensitive skin, baby, suncare and makeup applications.
Recommended use level: 3 - 6%

Amylomer EMU PF

INCI: Aqua, Polyquaternium-75, Sodium

Lactate; Urea, Sodium Chloride, Lactic
Acid, Glycerin, Levulinic Acid, p-Anisic Acid)
is a conditioning agent with emulsifying
properties. Especially suited for leave-on and
rinse-off hair treatments. Improves combing,
gloss and manageability of hair. Supports the
water resistance of emulsions.
Recommended use level: 1 5%

Biophilic

(INCI: BIOPHILIC H: Hydrogenated

Lecithin (and) C12-16 Alcohols (and) Palmitic
Acid; BIOPHILIC S: Lecithin (and) C12-16
Alcohols (and) Palmitic Acid) is a patented
natural lamellar O/W system based on the
emulsifying properties of Phospholipids
combined with other vegetable Lipids.
The lamellar emulsion mimics the Lipid
structure of the Stratum corneum for a
perfect affinity. It acts as a second skin
and therefore helps restore the cutaneous
barrier of damaged skin. Two grades exist:
Biophilic H (hydrogenated Lecithin) and

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Biophilic S (non-hydrogenated Lecithin

and so a chelating agent and anitoxidant is
required). The emulsion melts on the skin for
a sophisticated skin feel during application
and forms a restructuring film which reduces
TEWL.
Recommended use level: 3 - 6%

Dermofeel Easymuls Plus

(INCI: Glyceryl Oleate Citrate). A powerful

O/W-emulsifier for low viscosity and sprayable
concepts. A single ingredient emulsifier that is
cold-processable and effective at low dosage,
without any co-emulsifier. Based on sunflower
oil, it is suitable for palm oil free and vegan
formulations.
Recommended use level: 1 4% (as main
emulsifier) and 0.5 - 1% (as co-emulsifier)

Dermofeel G 10 L

(INCI: Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate) is a co-emulsifier

made from natural raw materials with excellent
cosmetic properties (see also Dermofeel G 10 LW
for a 50% watery solution). Because of its excellent
eye and skin compatibility, its pleasant skin-feel
and its outstanding detergence, Dermofeel G 10
L can be used for baby care products and face
cleansing, as well as an emulsifier for low-viscosity
O/W emulsions and roll-on emulsions.
Recommended use level: 0.5 1%

Dermofeel GSC

(INCI: Glyceryl Stearate Citrate) is a PEG-free

emulsifier, ideal for the prevention of phototoxical
effects in sun care products and products
exposed to sunlight. The high melting point
provides extra thermo-stability.
Recommended use level: 1 4%

Dermofeel GSC palm oil free

(INCI: Glyceryl Stearate Citrate) is a PEG-free

emulsifier based on Rape Seed oil that is ideal for
the prevention of phototoxical effects in sun care
products and products exposed to sunlight. The
high melting point provides extra thermo-stability.
Recommended use level: 1 4%

Dermofeel PO

(INCI: Glyceryl Oleate) is a highly effective

emulsifier with outstanding consistency properties
for O/W and W/O preparations.
Recommended use level: 0.5 1%

Dermofeel PP

(INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 Palmitate) is a highly effective

emulsifier. Due to its chemical structure it covers
a wide HLB-range and that causes a very large
stability of emulsions. Why not try this material in a
PEG-free self-emulsifying bath oil?
Recommended use level: 3 6%

Dermofeel PS

(INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate) is a very effective

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emulsifier. Due to its chemical structure it covers

a wide HLB-range to provide excellent stability to
emulsions. Because of its high melting point the
formed gel- and net-structures are also stable at
higher temperatures. Can be used in combination
with Dermosoft Octiol to regulate viscosity.
Recommended use level: 2 4%

Dermosoft DGMC

(INCI: Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate) is a co-emulsifier

that can be used as a deodorant active ingredient
due to its activity against gram-positive bacteria.
Recommended use level: 0.5 1% (Rinse-off
formulations); 0.3 - 0.5% (Leave on formulations)

Emulmetik

INCI: Lecithin/ Hydrogenated Lecithin) are

natural Lecithins and Phospholipids with various
Phosphatidylcholine contents. Used as coemulsifiers, wetting agents or active ingredients,
they improve all types of formulation with a unique
sensorial and natural approach. Emulmetik
320 increases the longevity of fragrance and
enables the fragrance level to be reduced (good
for allergens). Emulmetik 320 is the alcohol-free
version that provides fragrance longevity (even
after washing), is naturally compliant (if using
essential oils) and provides an ultra-light texture.
Emulmetik 930 is best for wipes, make-up
removal and the reduction of pore size.
Recommended use level: 0.25 - 15%

Heliofeel

(INCI: Glyceryl Stearate Citrate (and)

Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate (and) Hydrogenated
Lecithin) is a natural emulsifier for the formulation
of O/W emulsions. Easy-to-use, it is compatible
with a large variety of oils and forms particularly
stable emulsions in the presence of electrolytes
and other destabilising agents. Polyvalent,
it allows the formulation of a wide range of
textures leaving a soft and velvety touch. Ideal
for sprayable to cream emulsions, wipes, sun
care (HeliofeelTM is not lamellar and so doesnt
penetrate) and make-up applications.
Recommended use level: 3 - 6%

Olifeel TD7525

(INCI: Triolein, Glyceryl Dioleate) is a unique

synergy of highly purified olive triglycerides
and diglycerides with a soft, non-greasy touch.
Benefits include higher skin penetration due
to the biocompatibile triglycerides, increased
stability due to polar diglycerides as well as an
enhanced resistance to oxidation. Highly stable
and good for producing shower creams with
moisturisation claims. Triglycerides remain on the
skin providing a caring and moisturised effect.
Does not impact on foam. Suitable for emulsions,
body care, sticks, mascaras, shampoo, hair
masks, colour foundation, lip gloss, sun care, wet
wipes, liquid soap and bar soap.
Recommended use level: 0.5 60%

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Symbiomuls GC

(INCI: Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Cetearyl

Alcohol, Glyceryl Caprylate) consists of Glyceryl
Stearate Citrate, Cetearyl Alcohol and Glyceryl
Caprylate, supplied in a small pellet format
for convenience and easy dosage. Glyceryl
Stearate Citrate is a well-known and powerful
anionic emulsifier. Cetearyl Alcohol is widely
used as a co-emulsifier and consistency
enhancer. Glyceryl Caprylate can be found in
many formulations and is used for its wetting
properties and antimicrobial effectiveness. This
product also provides a number of surprising
additional technical advantages, including
better dispersibility at lower temperatures
and quick formation of homogenous and
fine dispersions at temperatures of 40C and
above. All components are produced from
sustainable materials and in accordance with
all relevant natural cosmetic standards. On
top of its excellent emulsifying properties,
Symbiomuls GC provides a basic antimicrobial
effect that enables you to lower the amount of
preservatives. In many cases, the additional use
of Dermosoft products offers possibilities to
formulate without traditional preservatives.
Recommended use level: 3 6%

Symbiomuls Rich

(INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Behenyl

Alchohol, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate Helianthus
Annuus Seed Cera, Glyceryl Caprate,
Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Helianthus
Annuus Seed Oil) is a naturally-derived, easy
to use O/W-emulsifier blend. Each blend
component contributes to the rich texture,
skin feel and the caring sensorial profile of
the resulting emulsions. There is no need
for further stabilisers or co-emulsifiers in the
oil phase and it provides an antimicrobial
boosting effect. Its exceptional performance
allows to form stable emulsions within a wide
range of viscosities and oil-concentrations.
Recommended use level: 5-7%

Emulsifiers W/O
Dermofeel GO soft

(INCI: Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquioleate) is a natural

food-approved emulsifier for W/O formulations.
In general, W/O concepts are frequently used
for Sun Care and Baby products as well as for
intensive skin care, mature skin and protective
concepts. However, W/O products are not very
popular due to their sensorial profile. The rich
and caring concepts are generally perceived as
heavy and greasy on the skin by the consumer.
Dermofeel GO soft is a versatile W/O emulsifier
with a unique skin feel. It converts W/O creams
into soft and pleasant formulations that are easily
applied on the skin. The heavy and traditional
sensorial profile of W/O formulations will soon be
a thing of the past if Dermofeel GO soft is used.
Dermofeel GO soft is also economic to use and
the concentration needed is very low.
Recommended use level: 0.5 4%

Dermofeel PGPR

(INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate) is an

extremely effective emulsifier with high skin
compatibility for W/O emulsions that contain
up to 80% water. Its stability against radical
oxidations makes it a highly interesting material
for sun care products.
Recommended use level: 4 6%

Dermofeel PO

(INCI: Glyceryl Oleate) is a highly effective

emulsifier and refattening agent for W/O emulsions.
Recommended use level: 0.5 1%

Olifeel E-Nat

(INCI: Olive Glycerides). Olive oil has been used

throughout history for its precious cosmetic
properties, as they are very close to skin lipids.
Olifeel E-Nat is an innovative and natural W/O
emulsifier and emollient resulting from 100%
patented green technology. The interesting
sensorial profile is linked to the excellent skin feel
and unique, long-lasting and nourishing activity.
Olifeel E-Nat can be used in bodycare, suncare
and babycare.
Recommended usage level: 12 - 15%

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Olifeel E-Nat W/O

(INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate). This 100% natural

and Cosmos compliant W/O emulsifier is produced
from the non-edible part of Olives used to produce
Olive Oil. Cold processable, easy to use and
requires no co-emulsifier. Ideal for decorative
(mascara, foundation), dry skin, mature skin, baby
and natural suncare.
Recommended usage: 3 6%

Olifeel TD O/W

(INCI: Triolein, Glyceryl Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-3).

Supplied in pellet form, this natural O/W emulsifier
is derived from the non-edible part of Olives used to
produce Olive Oil. This 100% natural and Cosmos
compliant O/W emulsifier provides a light skin feel.
Recommended usage: 3 6%

Symbiomuls WO

(INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Sorbitan

Sesquioleate, Cetyl Ricinoleate, Glyceryl
Caprate, Cera Alba, Magnesium Stearate,
Aluminium Tristearate) is an emulsifier blend for
W/O emulsions based on Dermofeel PGPR. This
100% natural, PEG-free W/O emulsifier is highly
versatile and very easy to use (one pot, hot or
cold). Cream to body milk formulations can be
easily produced.
Recommended use level: 5 10%

Symbiomuls W/O AF

(INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Sorbitan

Sesquioleate, Cetyl Ricinoleate, Glyceryl
Caprate, Cera Alba (Bees Wax)), Magnesium
Stearate) W/O emulsifier blend with a synergistic
mixture of emulsifiers, waxes and stabilisers that
is free of Aluminium compounds and naturally
compliant. Balanced for optimum performance
and stability it can be used in hot, cold or onepot manufacturing processes to provide a cream
texture. Compatible with all cosmetic oils at a
range of concentrations.
Recommended usage level: 5 -10%

Gelling Agents
Dermofeel viscolid

(INCI: Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil) is a natural

oil thickener supplied in a powder format with
a melting point of approx. 60C. It is used to
convert liquid oils into soft, creamy textures.
The resulting product is an elegant soft oil
paste that is easily applied on the skin without
smearing and dripping. It can be used in
jars or with a pump dispenser. A gel texture
is essential to obtain stable formulations.
There is no influence on the sensorial profile
of the oils which makes it ideal for massage
oils. Dermofeel viscolid has been tested with
various oils and is compatible with plant oils
as well as ester oils, mineral oil and silicones.
The thickening effect is based on a delicate
network of fine lipid crystals that, upon contact
with the skin, melt and form a liquid phase with
the sensorial profile of the oil mixture used.
Recommended use level: 0.5 10%

Ecogel

(INCI: Lysolecithin (and) Sclerotium Gum (and)

Xanthan Gum (and) Pullulan) is a patented
optimised combination of natural origin
ingredients derived from a green process
(contributing to the sustainable preservation
of the environment): Lysophospholipids,
Xanthan gum, Sclerotium gum and Pullulan.
Its performances make it the first natural and
organic Phospholipid-based gelling-emulsifying
agent on the market. It allows the creation of
natural gel-creams with an ultra-soft and light
skin feel. Ecogeloffers an excellent silicone-like
slip ideal for skin, hair and lubricants. Electrolyte
tolerant.
Recommended use level: 0.3%: Skin feel
enhancer; 1%: Stabiliser and viscosity adjuster
for all kind of emulsions; 1.5-2%: Main gelling and
emulsifying agent for gel-creams.

Heliogel

(INCI: Sodium Acrylates Copolymer (and)

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene (and) Phospholipids
(and) Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate (and) Helianthus
Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil) is a patented
gelling ingredient with emulsifying properties

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conferred by the presence of Sunflower

Phospholipids. It thickens within a wide pH
range and emulsifies all types of oil phases.
Gel-creams can be formulated with an innovative
skin feel, non-tacky and non-greasy. Heliogel
is the solution to combine performance and skin
sensation. Ideal as a viscosity adjuster, stabiliser
and emulsifier for gel-creams (from 1%).
Recommended use level: 0.2 - 3%

Lecigel

INCI: Sodium Acrylates Copolymer (and)

Lecithin) is a gelling agent with emulsifying
and cooling properties (ice-cube-like sensation
pleasant and safe alternative to Menthol and
Alcohol). It allows the increase in the stability
of formulas. Suitable for both cold and hot
processes, it also helps to adjust the viscosity
at the end of the formulation process. Easy
to use and stable to pH 12, it is compatible
with most emulsifiers and is stable over a
wide range of pH. Especially adapted for
the formulation of gel-creams, it provides the
typical Phospholipid touch with a cool, soft
and non-greasy skin feel.
Recommended use level: 0.2 - 4%

Olifeel Pearls

(INCI: C10-18 Triglycerides) is a patented,

non-hydrogenated rheological thickener for
anhydrous systems. Can thicken natural,
synthetic and silicone formulations as well as
offering suspension. Viscosity (linked to the
polarity of the oil used) significantly increases in
a dose-dependent mannner. Provides a creamy,
comfortable and non-greasy touch. Easy to use.
Suitable for use in emulsions (O/W stabiliser),
creams, conditioning, sticks, butter, mascara and
masks.
Recommended use level: 0.5 - 40% (< 2.5% offers
a creamy feel without viscosity, > 2.5% provides
more viscosity and structure).

Interested?
Then please call one of our
team for more information...

Andrew Goodwin
Managing Director

T: 01344 397 768

M: 07969 078 557
E: andrew.goodwin@infinity-ingredients.co.uk
Clare Goodwin

Technical Sales Director

T: 01344 397 768

M: 07899 662 727
E: clare.goodwin@infinity-ingredients.co.uk
W: infinity-ingredients.co.uk