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APPAREL INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP

AT

AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED


CHENNAI

SUBMITTED BY:

SHISHIR GUPTA
UDAY SHANKAR JHA
Bachelor of Fashion Technology
(Batch 2004 08)

DEPARTMENT OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY


NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION
TECHNOLOGY
HYDERABAD
INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI

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CERTIFICATE

This is to certify that the following students of Fashion Technology Department


specializing in Apparel Production

Shishir Gupta
Uday Shankar Jha

had carried out Apparel Industry Internship at Ambattur Clothing Limited, Chennai
from 21st May 2007 to 13th July 2007.

Centre Coordinator

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

The quest for knowledge provokes man to undertake many journeys in life. Through
his pursuit, there are various people who extend their invaluable support to make it a
success we would like to extend our sincere gratitude to those people whose help and
guidance made our apparel internship at ACL possible.
First of all we would like to thank Mr. Indevar Pandey (Director NIFT, Hyderabad)
and Dr. P Krishna Mohan (Registrar NIFT, Hyderabad) for giving us an opportunity
to have first hand experience of the Apparel Industry. We sincerely thank our course
co-ordinator Mr.Sanjay Shrivastava and Mr Rajasekhar (RIC,NIFT,Hyd) who took
pains in arranging for the internship and ensuring its success .
We are extremely thankful to Mr. S.V.Srinivan (HRM), Mr. Amaan, Mr. Bala and
Mr. Sairam for their cordial warmth and support that they have extended.
We are extend our sincere and heartfelt gratitude to Mr.Radha Krishnan (factory
manager), Mr. Shiva Kumar (Production Executive), Mr. Vasu Devan and Mr.Ajay
for their continuous, encouraging and patient support. Without their practical advice
and valuable experience and expertise, we would never have completed this report.

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PREFACE

The Industry internship is a means to provide fresh college student a practical


knowledge about the industry work culture. The internship acted as a interface where
we experienced how the theoretical learning and input of three years of education in
NIFT can be applied to real life situations. This experience was indeed made
wonderful with the help and support given by people from Indias one of the best
manufacturing unit Ambattur Clothing Limited.
ACL is a place where best brands are manufactured with great care and customers are
looked upon as god. Gap, Banana Republic, J Jill, J Crew, Old Navy, Ann Taylor,
Espirit, Levis, Diesel are some of the brand names which would obviously require no
introduction. Working with such a big name was really an achievement.
The document describes the structural and functional working aspects of a Garment
manufacturing unit through our experience in Ambattur Clothing Limited.

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TABLE OF CONTENT

Sr. No.

TOPIC

Pg. No.

COMPANY PROFILE

1.1

INTRODUCTION

1.2

COMPANY FACT FILE

1.3

CAPACITY

1.5

LOCATION

1.4

PRODUCT RANGE

3-4

ORGANISATION CHART

2.1

CORE MANAGEMENT

2.2

PRODUCTION

H.R. AND WELFARE DEPARTMENT

3.1

ACL MISSION

3.2

WELFARE MEASURES

MARKETING AND MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT

4.1

ORGANISATION HIERARCHY

4.2

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT DEPARTMENT

10

4.2.1

A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DIFFERENT STAGES

11-23

PRE PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT

24

5.1

PATTERN DEPARTMENT

23

5.1.1

ORGANISATIONAL HIERARCHY

24-25

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5.1.2

FUNCTIONS

25

5.2

CAD DEPARTMENT

25

5.2.1

FUNCTIONS

25

5.2.2

PM AND GRADING DETAILS

25-26

5.3

SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

27

5.3.1

COMPONENTS OF THE SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

27

5.4

MARKER DEPARTMENT

27

5.4.1

FUNCTIONS

27

R & D DEPARTMNET

28

6.1

FUNCTIONS

28

6.2

COMMENTS FROM BUYER

28-29

MIS DEPARTMENT

30

7.1

BUSINESS MANAGEMENT CENTER

30-31

7.2

PRODUCTION MANAGEMENT CENTER

31-32

CENTRAL INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT

33

8.1

OBJECTIVES OF CIED

33

8.2

FUNCTIONS OF CIED

33-34

EXPORT DEPARTMENT

35

9.1

PRE-SHIPMENT DOCUMENTATION

35

9.1.1

AEPC DOCUMENTATION

35

9.1.2

CUSTOM DOCUMENTATION

35-36

9.2

BUYING HOUSE DOCUMENTATION

36

9.3

BUYER DOCUMENTATION

36

9.4

LETTER OF CREDIT

37

10

MATERIAL MAINTAINENCE CENTER

38

10.1

FABRIC STORE

38-39

10.1.1

FABRIC QUALITY CHECKING

39-41

10.2

TRIMS STORE

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41-42
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11

WASHING UNIT

43

11.1

WORK FLOW IN THE WASHING UNIT FOR BULK PRODUCTION

43-45

11.2

LAUNDRY MACHINERIES DETAIL

46

12

PRODUCTION UNIT: ACL SP 10/8

47

12.1

INTRODUCTION

47

12.2

FACT SHEET: ACL SP 10/8

47-48

12.3

ORGANISATIONAL CHART: SP 10/8

49

13

LAYOUTS

50

13.1

CUTTING DEPATMENT LAYOUT

50

13.2

SEWING DEPATMENT LAYOUT

51

13.3

FINISHING DEPATMENT LAYOUT

52

13.4

PACKAGING DEPATMENT LAYOUT

52

14

STORES

54

14.1

FABRIC STORE

54

14.1.1

A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE PROCESS FLOW

54-55

14.2

TRIM STORE

56

14.2.1

A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE PROCESS FLOW

56-57

15

CUTTING DEPARTMENT

58-60

15.1

A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE PROCESS FLOW

61-64

15.2

M/C & TABLE DETAILS

65

15.2.1

TABLES

65

15.2.2

MACHINERY

65

15.2.3

MISCELLANEOUS

65

15.3

QUALITY CHECK IN CUTTING ROOM

66

15.3.1

S.O.P. FOR SPREADING AUDITOR

66

15.3.2

S.O.P. FOR CUTTING SUPERWISOR

67

15.3.3

S.O.P FOR FUSING MECHANIC

68

16

SEWING DEPARTMENT

69

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16.1

LINE SECTION

70-72

16.2

KAJA SECTION

73

16.2.1

A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE PROCESS FLOW

73-74

16.3

QUALITY CHECKING IN SEWING ROOM

75-76

16.4

MACHINE ANE EQUIPMENT DETAIL

77

16.4.1

MACHINES

77

16.4.2

MISCELLANEOUS

77

17

FINISHING DEPARTMENT

78

17.1

A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE PROCESS FLOW

78-81

17.2

MACHINE AND EQUIPMENT DETAIL

82

17.2.1

MACHINES

82

17.2.2

MISCELLANEOUS

82

18

PACKAGING DEPATMENT

83

18.1

A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE PROCESS FLOW

83-84

18.2

EQUIPMENT DETAILS

84

18.3

POLY BAG, BARCODE, CARTON STICKERS DETAIL

85

19

QUALITY CONTROL DEPARTMENT

86

19.1

LIST OF THE DETAILS TO BE CHECKED

86-87

19.2

LIST OF THE DEFECT CHECKED

87

19.3

AUDIT FIOW CHART IN ACL

88

19.3.1

SAMPLE SELECTION TECHNIQUES

88

20

MAINTAINENCE DEPARTMENT

89

20.1

PREVENTIVE MAINTAINENCE PROCEDURE

89

20.1.1

MECHANICAL MAINTAINENCE

89

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20.1.2

ELECTRICAL MAINTAINENCE

89

20.2

BREAKDOWN MAINTAINENCE

90

20.2.1

MECHANICAL MAINTAINENCE

90

20.2.2

ELECTRICAL MAINTAINENCE

90

20.3

SPARES INVENTORY

90

20.4

ARRANGEMENT OF MACHINES & ATTACHMENTS

90

20.5

GENERAL MAINTAINENCE

91

20.6

WORKSHOP

91

21

PROJECT

92-97

22

CONCLUSION

98

APPENDIX
ANNXEURES

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1. COMPANY PROFILE
1.1 Introduction:
Ambattur Clothing Limited was incorporated in the year 1981 by Mr. Vijay
Mahtaney (VIJU), who is a first generation entrepreneur. The company was started
with a single factory with a work force of around 150 employees. In just 2 decades
the organization has become the fifth largest exporter of garments in India, with a
total workforce of over 15000 people employed in nine production facilities managed
by the company.
ACL has a very high reputation in the global market for its commitment to Quality
and delivering within the stipulated time equipped with the latest state of the art
technology. ACL specializes in the manufacture of Shirts, Trousers, Ladies wear,
Jackets etc. ACL clientele includes GAP, BANANA REPUBLIC, J JILL, J CREW,
OLD NAVY, ANN TAYLOR, ESPIRIT, LEVIS, DIESEL to name a few. COLOR
PLUS which has a very high reputation in the domestic market was a part of the
ACL group. CLOTHES ENCOUNTER is a retail division of ACL, which has got
its showrooms in 7 locations across India.
In a highly demanding industry like Apparel Exports, where competition from both
domestic and abroad is fierce, Human Resource and Infrastructure decides sustenance
and success of any key player. ACL has the positive edge in both the factors, which is
the prime and sole reason for its success.
Over the years, ACL has come to signify the best in the service and dependability for
many of its clients. This resulted as a great achievement for the organisation as last
year it has crossed an annual turn over of 140 Million US dollars. The organisation
has also been rated as Best client in India by IDBI bank.

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1.2 Company Fact File:

Name of the Company

Ambattur Clothing Limited

Head office
Establishment Year

86/ E2, Industrial Estate, Ambattur,


Chennai
1981

Managing Director

Mr. Vijay Mahtaney

Nature of Business

Export

Product Category

Product MiX

Main Export Market

USA, Europe, Canada, Middle East

No. of Workers

15000

Annual Turnover

140 Million US Dollars

1.3 Capacity:

Location

Capacity (2005-06)

Capacity (2006-07)

ACL, Chennai, India

8 Million pieces

9 Million Pieces.

ACL, Bahrain

3 Million Pieces.

3 Million Pieces.

Total

11 Million Pieces.

12 Million Pieces.

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1.4 Location:
Ambattur Group
Ambattur
Chennai, India

2000 Machines

Export Zone
Chennai, India
2 Production Facilities
500 Machines

ACIL
Bahrain
1 Production facility
600 Machines

1.5 Product Range:


Ambattur provides a wide variety of products. It manufactures bottoms from basic
chinos, to denim, to classic wool pants. The factories are well equipped to sew, wash
and pack the diversified range. Even in tops, it makes the basic shirts (mens &
ladies) going on to dress shirts and fitted garments in fabrics ranging from polyester,
linen & Voile.

Buyer wise product range distribution is described as follows:


Product

Buyers

Woolen pants

Banana Republic, Gap, Liz Claiborne, Tommy Hilfiger

Two Ply Twill Chinos

Banana Republic, Next, Esprit, Gap, Kohls, Eddie Bauer

Cotton / Lycra Stretch

Banana Republic, Ann Taylor, Liz Claiborne, Lauren

Polyester / Blends

Jones NY, Banana Republic, Levis, Ann Taylor.

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Cotton Shirts / Tops

Banana Republic, Arrow, Liz Claiborne, Eddie Bauer, Ann


Taylor.

Linen Shirts / Pants

Banana Republic, Liz Claiborne, Marks & Spencers, Gap

Woolen Jackets

Banana Republic, Gap

Jackets Moleskin/ Cotton

Banana Republic, Esprit.

Products range categorization on the basis of volume of manufacturing:

Product-mix

Others
5%

Tops
35%

Bottoms
60%

ACL product range can also be categorized product wise as follows:

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Product Range

Mens wear

Womens wear
Shirts

Top

Trousers

Skirts

Jackets

Pants

Shorts

Dresses
Jackets
Shorts

2. ORGANIZATIONAL CHART
2.1 Core Management:

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Mr. Vijay Mahtaney


Managing Director

Production Units

Operational Functions

Support Functions

Ms.Ambika/ Mr.Bopanna
Mr.Behram K
Director - Production

Director
Merchandising/
VP - Merchandising

Mr.T Rajendran
Head Human
Resources
Administration

Mr.Darius K
Head R&D
CAD/CAM/Sampling
Quality Assurance

Mr.T Subramaniam
Finance & Accounts
MIS, Projects & IT

Mr.Vinayak T
Head - MMC

Mr.V Paranthaman
Head - Commercial

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2.2 Production:

Mr. Behram K
Director

Mr. Manohar K
Babu Genreral
Manager

Mr. .Ganapathy S
General Manager

Mr. Gopinath
General
Manager

Mr. Krishnan, FM
Mr. Sekar/Mr.
Mani, PM
SP 53

Mr. Anandraj, FM
Mr. Raja, PM
69 B

Mr .Dave, FM
Mr. Shaji, PM
B 12

Mr. Narasimhan,
FM
Mr. Balakrishna,
PM
B 13, B 15

MEPZ Division

Mr. Anand, FM
Mr. Prince, PM
( B 9)
Mr. Rajendran PM
(B 10)

Mr. Pawan /
Mr. Sudhakar,
FM

Mr. Srikanth, FM
Mr. Gopalan, PM
D 26

Mr.Radhakrishnan
, FM
Mr.Shankar, PM
SP 10/8

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3. HUMAN RESOURCE AND WELFARE DEPARTMENT

ACLs human resource policy stems from the underlying belief that human resource
is one of its greatest assets. These assets appropriately motivated developed and
above all professionally managed will be source for the advancement of ACLs
corporate plans. Corporate personal policy strives to secure job satisfaction for all its
employees. It is ACLs vision is to be the MOST PREFERRED EMPLOYER in
garment industry and the means employee towards this end includes:

Ensuring value driven management

Highly contemporary HR practices

Focus on candidates short term and long term plans

Flexibility towards horizontal and vertical movement within the organization

3.1 ACLs Mission

To evolve a corporate work culture supportive of every individuals pursuit of


dreams, equality of human dignity, ownership of organizational effectiveness
and open communication for collaborative and cohesive team work

To constantly foster strong customer orientation, highly accountable role


holding and total performance alignment across the organization

To incorporate the most effective and progressive training and development


policy which strives to meet the rising demands of the organization, wherein
every employee in the organization will undergo a minimum training on
technical and behavioural areas in a given calendar year

To constantly foster a congenial working environment which motivates every


employee in the organization to facilitate maximum output

To align with the changing Business Demands and Goals and accordingly
institutionalize the key performance areas of the functional departments and
every individual.

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Employee Welfare is a continuous process and Department emphasizes on


developing suitable welfare measures, which are on par with the best industrial
practices.

3.2 Welfare Measures Provided To Employees:

Medical facility: The organization has its medical centre located in SP-24,
which has an in house medical practitioner, with renowned specialist visiting
regularly. The service is totally subsidized and the employees have to pay a
very nominal amount for registration. The centre also provides medicines at
very nominal rates.

Crche facility: The organization also offers crche facility to the employees
children in the age group between 1-6 yrs of age. Certified and well trained
personnel in childcare manage this facility. The centre also provides periodic
health checkups for the children.

Library facility: The organization has a corporate tie-up with British council
library for taking care of the library needs of the employees and the
organization. Every employee is eligible to avail this service and borrow
books, periodicals, magazines, videos for a period of 2 weeks.

Transportation facility: The organizations provide transportation facility


where ever it is feasible. The HR department makes all the necessary
arrangements.

Company functions: Employees are called upon to participate in the any of


the companys functions, either conducted in the premises or outside the
premises on various occasions, including physical activities conducted
regularly.

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4. MARKETING AND MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT


The company has exclusive teams of merchandisers for each buyer like GAP, Diesel,
Eddie Bauer, Levis, Banana Republic and J- Jill respectively. The major functions of
the department can be summarized as follows:

Identification of selling avenues and Buyers

Maintaining buyers faith and promises.

Promotion or marketing the brand to the right audience at the right time.

Coordinates different departments to achieve production within lead time.

4.1 Organizational hierarchy of the Department:

BMC HEAD
(MANAGER)

MERCHANDIS
ER
(PRODUCT
DEVELOPME
NT)

Jr.
MERCHANDISER

(P D)

Sr.
MERCHANDIS
ER
(PRODUCTIO
N)

Sr.
MERCHANDIS
MERCHANDIS MERCHANDIS
ER
ER
ER
(PRODUCTIO
(SOURCING) (SOURCING)
N)

Jr.
Jr.
MERCHANDISER MERCHANDISER
MERCHANDISER MERCHANDISER
(TOPS)
(TOPS)
MERCHANDISER MERCHANDISER
(P D)
(P D)
(BOTTOMS)
(BOTTOMS)

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4.2 Product Development Department


Product development department comes under marketing. The company has inhouse design studio to anticipate and react to market trends and buyers orders.
The product development department takes care for the steps of conversion of design
from paper to garment with actual fabric.

Design
on
paper

Garment
with actual
fabric
Garment design

Proto

Printing &
development

Wash trials

Adoptio
n
Franchise

Critical fit

Production

Diagram showing the sampling stages from design to bulk production of the garment

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4.2.1 A brief description of different stages:


Proto/ Early Book sample: It is the first sample from paper to fabric. In this the
main points which are looked into are Pattern, fit, drape, fall of the garment.
Substitute trims can be used. Then it is sent to buyer for approval. Fit comments are
sent by buyer. Measurements should be within the tolerances.
Wash trials: It is done after the fit is finalized for proto. It is the same style which
can be done on different fabric. Finalize type of wash for fabric. Sleeve modes, leg
panels, shirt mocks etc are made to test for wash trials.
Developments: Initially it is done in the form of sketches on the piece of the sample.
It is done in order to check the capacity of vendor. It is submitted to buyer for getting
the feedback on the sample.
Adoption sample: It is very important stage of production of styles in different fabric
of different colour. It should contain actual aesthetic appeal. It has actual trims and
approved wash standards. It is representative of Ambattur to the buyer. Final order
placement by the buyer is done only after the acceptance of adoption sample.
Critical fit: After the proto fit buyer would give comments, which would be
incorporated in adoption stage. In adoption stage presentation is covered, in critical
fit all specifications should be within tolerance to assess the fit of the garment. It is
sent to the buyer for confirmed order; all specifications are followed in this.
Franchise: Marketing team of buyer sends all styles of the sample to the different
retail units to predict the market response. Here, the aesthetics of the garments is
important to them than measurement.

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Buyer Tracker

GSS
BOM
Pattern

CIED
DD
S
A
M

Research &
Development

Pattern request

Sample request

Marker request

Research & Development


Comments

Wash request
(If applicable)

Costing

Sample
Basic procedure in Product development
Tracker: It is the excel chart from the buyer which mentions styles allocated to
different vendors. It is a comprehensive chart which is circulated among all SVD
offices (Supplier Vendor Development office), indicating entire status of adoption
sample for a particular season. It has all the details of the styles to be made with like
fabric, colour and the wash.
Garment specification sheet: It is made by the designers and sent to SVDs.
Designers provide details such as sewing, construction details, which are required to
make the garment diagrammatic introduction. It includes buyer block / pattern to be
followed for shapes and the measurement/ specifications of all the parts of a finished
garment. As soon as GSS is received, it is checked if any extra information is needed
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or not. For any extra information the CSP (customer supplied product) will be
circulated to CIED (central industrial engineering department) and R&D (research n
development).
BOM (Bill of materials): It contains the details of shell fabric, labels, buttons,
interlinings, threads, prints, embroidery, wash specifications, packaging details etc.
Trims ordering should have following details:

Supplier name

Buyer ref no.

Trim description label, button, colour, size, quantity

Buyer Bloch: It is the soft copy of the pattern which is necessary for pattern making
on paper.
Pattern request: After GSS, BOM and Buyer Bloch, pattern request is issued for the
preparation of computerized or manual pattern. Communication with this department
is only through marker request form.
These are the following detail in the pattern request form:

Version of pattern

Size

Fabric type

Enclosed GSS, BOM, Sample and Pinned sample

R & D comments: When the pattern is ready, the pattern department will send
merchandising department comments. They will also give costing comment which
can be done on style without affecting design and style. These comments to be
enclosed with sample request.
Sample request: As soon as fabric and trims are required sample request is issued,
which contains following details:

Style no

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Pattern version to be used

Main fabric details with swatch

Labels detail

Button detail

Other detail like zip, tape, lace

Colour, size wise quantity of samples required

Wash details

Special instructions

Enclose the copy of GSS, BOM and R&D comments.

Once sample request is given the following sequence is followed:

Store has to handover the fabric and trims required for a sample request

Pattern cutting: Here the cutting of fabric as per the pattern takes place

Embroidery and printing(if applicable)

Lining issual

Buttons, Hooks, Contrast thread required issued

Washing(if applicable)

Finishing: After washing samples will be checked for quality, ironed and
packed

After samples reaches merchandiser (Product development team) it is needed to cross


check the samples with GSS and BOM and fill the details of the sample on its label
and tag. Now sample is ready to be dispatched to the buyer.
Wash request: After sample is stitched it has to be sent for washing. It is sent with
an enclosed wash request form to instruct the washing department with the wash
required on sample.
Costing: Before sample is dispatched it is needed to give costing for the same. The
costing of the sample is done in each stage of the sample like proto adoption etc.
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The following points are considered while costing:

Fabric consumption and price

Trims consumption and price

Wash price

Printing and embroidery price

SAM given by CIED

Marker request: After receiving the details about the fabric for a particular style
merchandising department has to determine the consumption of a fabric which is
given by CAD/CAM (Marker department).
The Marker request should contain the following details:

Style no.

Pattern to be used for marker

Cuttable width of the fabric

Repeat size of the fabric with swatch

Placement of fabric

Matching standard for stripe and plaid(checked) fabric

Add information such as NAP up down fabric, one way or two way fabric

Based on above details, marker department will give the consumption (wastage is
added with this and called yield yardage) of the fabric for that particular style.
Matching standard:

For stripes and plaid fabrics, Banana republic has some

matching strategy at various parts of a garment to give nice appearance while


wearing. Those standards have big impact on yield yardage. It is always better to give
a swatch to avoid confusion.
To finalize the costing of sample following factors are taken in consideration:

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Fabric factor- Fabric consumption * Fabric price + Wastage (Varies from 5%10%)

Contrast fabric factor- Contrast fabric consumption * Fabric price + Wastage

Trims factor-Trims consumption * Price + Wastage

Printing and embroidery prices

Washing

Cutting and manufacturing charges(CM)

Flow Chart for Production

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Bulk GSS, BOM &


ACT

CPS

Fabric booking
Trims ordering

Proto
AD sample
No

Rev M

Yes

No
Approval

Approval

Yes

GPT sample
Yellow tag

Green tag

Size Set sample

PCD
Trim card approval,
Thread approval,
shade band approval
Interlining report, FTP, GCR

PP meeting

Shipment sample

Wash sample

Final Inspection

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Shipment

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Top sample

PRODUCTION
After adoption is over, buyer will start placing order through ACT (All channel
trackers). It is an excel format which has the details about confirmed styles, orders
quantity and delivery etc. after that final GSS and BOM is sent by the buyer. Then
the costing is done again and it is very tight to BOM. The costing is done in CPS
format which should be very tight & competitive. The Product Development
department has to hand over the samples to the concerned production merchants to
carry over.
Confirmed Program Sheet: After receiving the bulk GSS and BOM, the costing for
bulk is done and same is sent in a format called CPS to the buyer. This includes all
the details about product like fabric details with price, delivery details and mode and
Time & Action (T&A) plan of that style.
Quantity Indication: Once orders are confirmed, indication of the new order to
management, import & export department to plan for production & spacing is given.
For that we have to give details like style no, colour ways, SAM, order quantity per
colour way, delivery date, and mode of delivery.
Time & Action Plan: This is the plan through which merchandisers commit the exit
dates of various samples such as (Proto, Revised M, yellow tag, green tag,
advertisement sample & shipment sample) to buyer to meet the delivery required by
them. Buyer will give the delivery as IN-DC date. So, we have to work backward &
give the dates for sample exit. From the given details we can have the idea to give
dates & will change time to time for different cases:-

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Ex-country: - 35 days back from In-DC.

Ex-factory:-6 days for sea-shipment and 2 days for air shipment.

PCD (package date):- 35 days from Ex-factory for a regular cut n sew
program and 45 days for an O/D (over dye) program.

Yellow tag exit date: - 12vdays before PCD.

Revised M exit date:-20 days before yellow tag ED(exit date)

Proto Exit date:-20 days before revised M ED.

PP meeting: - 10 days after PCD.

TOP exit date:- 2 weeks before shipment

Order Registration: For order registration Software called Business Management


Centre (in house development) is used. All the details about all the orders from
sampling to the shipment and all the data/ status required can be immediately seen
from it.
Fabric Booking: It includes arranging material required for the production. The
fabric required for the particular order is ordered based on yield yardage received
from CAD/CAM. Since Ambattur Clothing Ltd. (banana republic dept) is dealing
with nominated supplier, SVD will give the indication (in form of fabric cutter/ fabric
order confirmation) FOC about the fabric quantity to the mills which should be cross
checked and confirmed to the mill by the department and then have to follow up,
cross check some of the internal procedures like Material Required Chart (MRC),
Raw Material Order (RMO), Performa Invoice (PI) from the mills and purchase order
(PO). While ordering the fabric for bulk, the quantity and delivery of tailoring /
sample yardages (for making the samples) are also specified.
Trims Ordering: Trims like interlining, labels, tags, buttons, price tags and packing
materials to the concerned purchase department through MRCs (Material
requirement charts). The MRCs are raised by PPC (production & planning coordination) and merchandisers have to overview the internal procedures like PI
(purchase invoices) from suppliers and POs (purchase orders).

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BOM & GSS Classification: As soon as the department receives the BOM and GSS,
it has to be studied carefully and asked about the classification within 48 hrs.
Shrinkage Sample: When washed fabric shrinks, it needs to be measured and
examined properly to maintain the specification that buyer wants for the wash
programs. Normally the shrinkage is checked in both warp and weft direction of the
fabric which will be added in the pattern so that it meets/hits the specifications
required by the buyer. It is very important to study the shrinkage on different roles of
the fabric as it will differ from roll to roll or takka to takka. Normally one shrinkage
study sample is made before doing any sample valid for specification/fit to avoid the
last time rejection due to measurement problems and this is totally for internal
purpose.

Proto Sample: After getting the classification for GSS & BOM merchandisers
arrange the samples to be sent to the buyer. First stage sample of production in base
size which is only meant for fit, specification and fabric. In this sample Trims are not
actual. Buyer will review the sample and give their approval or comments on fit.
Revised M Sample: If buyer is giving his comments to a proto, another sample in
the same base size incorporating all the comments is made and sent for approval
which is known as Revised M sample. Again buyer will review the sample and give
their approval which will be called as Revised M. Again buyer will review the
sample and give their approval or comments.
Wash Sample: In tailoring yardage, sample in base size (normally in 4 pieces) is
made with actual wash required for wash approval. The same will be sent to SVD,
Delhi and then approved and then forwarded to the buyer. The approved wash should
be maintained till the end of the order.
Garment Package Test (GPT) Sample: This is exclusively done for Banana
republic as the buyer has set some standards for their products in all the aspects.

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Banana republic has nominated some laboratories like ITS Mumbai and BY/MTL
Bangalore. So before starting production the garments to be tested and passed for its
qualities like fabric, trims and stitching quality from those laboratories. Here they
will test the sample for fabric weight, fabric content, flammability of fabric, tear
strength, tensile strength, pilling resistance, rain test, belt loop test, pocket attaching
strength, button attachment strength, snapping/unsnapping strength and various
colour fastness tests. To ensure the quality of the product the department has to make
and send the sample as per the labs requirement (4 pieces in dark colour way + 3
pieces in other colours -all in basic sizes).
Yellow Tag or Sealer Sample: Once proto/ Revised M is approved by buyer, the
department has to make a sample same as the Revised M with actual fabric and trims
to get it sealed by SVD Chennai. That is meant for all actual trims, specifications and
washes and to be followed by factory for production.

Green Tag Sample: There are times when all the trims required to make the yellow
tag sample are not received. In that case the department makes the yellow tag with
substitute trims and get SVD sample in any colour with actual trims and wash. This is
basically done to reduce the production delay.
Advertising Sample: In the meanwhile the department has to send the advertisement
samples (12 pieces) as instructed by the buyer for their catalogue/Marketing team. It
is for presentation purpose so it contains actual trims and fabric.
Size Set: All samples made till this stage After PCD (Production commencement
date- Date on which factory starts working on an order) are made in the base size
only. Therefore, before starting the production factory under goes pilot run that is
doing a trial production and making garments in all sizes. And one piece from each
size will be sent to SVD office to set the approval. The department should get the
approval for size set by pre-production meeting.

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Pre Production Meeting: After pilot run and before starting the production the PP
meeting is been conducted at SVD offices to discuss the critical points of the
particular order.
Top of Production (TOP) Sample: As soon as the production starts TOP samples in
base size (4 pieces) are sent to SVD offices and then to buyer to show them the
production product quality. If no comment is received within 48hrs then the
production will continue.
Shipment Sample: Samples from bulk are sent to SVD covering all sizes to
represent the shipment. It will contain the actual trims and packaging material and
exact wash.
Package File: Normally factory will be located away from headquarters so in turn to
avoid wastage of time in asking the classifications from merchants and to avoid
making mistakes. It will have to give all the details regarding the particular order for
which there is a checklist which were generated from the past experience. All the
details should be put in the package file.

PRODUCTION PACKAGE FILE CHECKLISTS:

1. Approved Yellow Tag(Sealer)/Pre production sample


2. Full size set pattern and version written on index ( If the style carries
embroidery or print the layout has to be passed on to the size set patterns
while sending to the factory with grading).
3. Index
4. R & D package comment
5. Final updated buyer BOM with CSP date
6. Update internal BOM(ACL)
7. Final GSS with CSP date
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8. All fit comments and buyer approvals highlights for constructions


9. Sealer comments and R&D reply for sealer comment
10. Trim cards approved by buyer merchant BMC containing:
a. Thread trim card with all thread qualities, colours, shade approvals
and placement
b. Label trim card with all labels required for all constructions
c. Layout for reference
d. Buttons, snaps, tapes, elastic, zippers etc
e. Price tickets, match books, stickers, hang tag etc.
f. If there are many trims missing from the above mentioned details of
the trims are given
(i) Fabric swatch card (Approved by buyer merchant)
g. Fabric swatches (shell, pocketing, lining, binding, contrast etc). In all
colours with selvedge and right side and nap direction marked on it
(where fabric is plaid or striped then centre front line to be marked).
h. Approved shade bands for fabrics, if not available attach the option
sent for approval.
i. Interlining swatches
(i)

Work order

11. POs (work order) with CSP date


(i) Reports
12. Fabric package test report for all fabric qualifies (for small quantity where it
is not required, attach the waiver)
13. GPT report
14. Interlining test report
15. General conformance report for styles having snaps, hook with mocks
16. Thread advisory report
17. Fabric shrinkage report
APPROVALS

Wash approval/band

Digitals for folding instructions of a garment approved from buyer

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Pressing standard

Labels and packing trim placement approval with digitals

Print/Embroidery/Swatch with approval for placement, color, artwork


appearance and technique

Matching standard and mini marker for stripes and plaid fabrics

Zipper grading

Any other style specific issues

Internal BOM: It is a system generated BOM in BMC which has all the details
about the particular order like fabric detail, trim detail, order style, PO and the status
of the raw material etc. Shortly it has the complete up to date status of that particular
order. This is circulated to the factory, stores (SP-76) by PPC at time of production
for the follow up.
Trim Card: This is swatch card which has the swatch or samples of all fabric and
trims such as labels, buttons, zipper, thread, interlining; tape etc. a set of swatch card
has to be sent to the SVD offices before starting the production and get their
approval. Same will be sent to factories along with the package file for their
reference and to avoid confusion.
Thread Advisory Report: Some fabrics are sent to the thread supplier and the
quality of the thread which is to be used for that fabric is taken. Based on that PDD
have to match the thread for fabric and get approval from buyer. The approved
thread panel should be kept in the package file.
Shade Band: Since the yarns for bulk will be dyed more than once, the scope for
different shades of colour is more. As soon as the company receives the fabric, fabric
stores will segregate the shade, inform the quantity per shade, and then send the band
(collection of different shade swatches) to buyer and get the approval.
Interlining Report: To check the operating temperature and pressure of the
interlining to a particular fabric and to choose the correct interlining supplier and get
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their suggestions/advice for the interlining which should be included in the package
file.
List of forms used at different stages:

Sample request form

Wash request form

Pattern request form

Marker request form

Short Quantity: After package file is handed over to the factory, factory will start
pilot run, size set samples, TOP samples and shipment samples. At the time of
production or end of the production, factory will inform us the short quality to the
actual required quality, the same to be informed and get approved from buyer
beforehand.
Final Inspection: Once the goods are ready, QA from SVD will come and inspect
the goods. Once it is approved, the goods can be moved from the factory premises to
the buyer nominated forwarder and then the goods will be shipped to the buyer.
Shipment Advice: Once the goods are shipped, the details about the shipment like
invoice, delivery challan, Bill of shipping or Air fare & vessel / flight details etc to
the buyer is taken care by Export department. They are also taking care of payment
related activities.

5. PRE PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT


The pre production department is the assemblage of four different departments which
work in coordination. A brief description of the different component is given below:
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5.1 Pattern Department


It is headed by Mr. Chandrasekhar, Mr. Gopal Kumar and Mr. Ganesh Kumar who
handles different buyers such as GAP, Diesel, Eddie Bauer, Levis, Banana Republic
and J Jill.
5.1.1 Organizational hierarchy of the Pattern making & CAD Department:

Technical head

Senior pattern maker

Junior pattern maker

Assistant pattern maker

The basic procedure followed in the department for a new order can be summarized
as follows:

New patterns are made

Buyer amendments are incorporated

Shrinkages are added

Grading is done

These patterns are used in sampling and sent to the buyer for approval, and
also sent to factories for production

Pattern tracking system prevails with version numbers for every amendment.

5.1.2 Functions

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The senior pattern makers work on styles like jackets, outerwear, shirts,
trousers, dresses etc.

The junior pattern makers help out in adding shrinkage to existing patterns,
grading and amendments

The pattern assistants trim the tracing received from the buyer and make
templates

Consumption of lace, webbing tapes draw-cord etc are also given by this
department

All factory amendments are also done by the pattern department

5.2 CAD Department


This department is affiliated to the pattern department. The entire computer aided
patterns, amendments, shrinkage and markers are done in this department.
5.2.1 Functions

The senior CAD technicians work on the new patterns, amendments,


shrinkage and grading.

The junior CAD technicians work on digitizing the patterns, tracings,


duplications etc.

5.2.2 Pattern making and Grading details:

Time taken to make a new pattern : 4 hours(Manual), 6 hours (computerized)

Time taken in grading: 8 hours (Manual), 6 hours (computerized)

Total time taken by marker department to give final pattern : 2days

Software used by CAD department : GGT (Gerber Garment Technology)

Type of marker planning: Mixed marker

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Working flowchart of the Pattern making & CAD Department

Merchant gives pattern request form

Pattern version-A is made and given to the merchandisers

Merchant gives changes as per buyer

Pattern version-B is made (if required)

Cross checking

Costing (to book the order) and sampling patterns

Adding shrinkage factor

Checking

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R
e
j
e
c
t
i
o
n

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Quality Audit
.

5.3 Sampling Department


This department is headed by Mrs. Prasanna kumari. T. This department is equipped
with state of art machineries. This department is self sufficient with a stores, cutting
section, button, and button hole section, finishing, home laundry and embroidery.
This department is segregated buyer wise and each unit is self sufficient with a
sampling supervisor and a quality person who understands the quality standards for
their particular buyers.
5.3.1 Components of the Sampling department:

Stores- The stores in sampling keeps account of all the sampling fabric and
trims issued to them. They issue the same to cutting as per the sampling
requests.

Cutting section- This department is equipped with personnel who cut fabrics,
pocket interlinings.

Sewing section

Button and button hole section

Finishing/pressing/checking section

5.4 Marker Department


This department works on markers done at costing, amendment and final stages to
derive on the fabric consumption of a garment. All factory lay markers and centrally
issued from marker and CAD department, markers are taken at costing and fit stage
5.4.1 Function

The senior marker will maintain the centralized record from sampling, pattern
and markers

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They will file all Patterns by buyer wise and the pattern request form also

Marker maker they mainly concentrated on costing, they have responsibility


to check out the consumption level.

6. RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT DEPARTMENT

The research and development department has different roles in case of different
buyers. However the basic functions of research & development department can be
summarized as

6.1 Function

Review the Tech pack for producing a fusibile trims details.

Reviewing a fit for the samples.

Giving an alternative option for some difficult operation.

Giving a fit comment properly to the production people.

Updating the tech pack regularly.

Giving guidance for factory production.

6.2 Comments from Buyer

Fit comment it special for fit of the garment.

Construction comment.

Specification comment.

Trims details.

After getting the GSS and BOM from buyer this will send to three department
Research and development department and CIED department and patter making
department.
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In research and development they will make costing for each and every
process.

They will check the capacity of machines and ability of the workers of factory
for a particular style.

Whether the design and trims of the garment

is feasible or not .if the

style is feasible how can will do it in a effective manner .

From sampling development to the end of the production

R&D department

have a responsible in each and every step.

While production if the factory people have any doubt in the operation
R&D department will come and clear the doubt regarding the production and
productivity

If there any technical problem

R&D department will analysis the problem

and find a proper solution for that problem.

While sending the sample to the buyer we have to attach the comment from
R&D department.

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7. MIS DEPARTMENT
The company uses centralised information system which is developed by the core IT
team of the company. The company has two tier integrated information system to
track the over all production with the management, planning, Sourcing and inventory
facilities. All the production and the support facilities are interconnected by optical
fibre on LAN network.
The information system can be divided in two parts i.e.
1. BMC (Business Management Centre ) and
2. Production Management System

7.1 Business Management Centre


It is the data entry software package used by the Merchandizing and marketing
Department. Each employee of the department has a separate user Id by which they
can access the system. The range of access is pre- defined so that no one can interfere
outside their Domain. The Package function details are pictorially shown below in
the screen shots of the package interface:

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Screen shorts showing different menu options of BMC


In this merchandiser can click on any of the menu option in the interface according to
the need. E.g. if he clicks on the Order Registration again following interface will
Come with all the order registration details along with the list of people who are
responsible for the job and can do data entry. For all other users it is read only
facility.

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7.2. Production Management System: It is also a data entry software


package used to record information at production facilities. This Package function
details are pictorially shown below in the screen shots of the package interface:

Screen shorts showing Login Screen


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Screen shorts showing different menu options of PMS

8.

CENTRAL INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT


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Industrial Engineering department acts as the bridge between the corporate office and
the production floor. It helps marketing people in understanding the complexity of
the product for accurate negotiation of manufacturing cost with buyer against the
production cost involved for the product based upon the factory efficiency.

8.1 Objectives of Central Industrial Engineering Department

Establish standard method for the operation.

Establish standard work content for a garment.

Reduce the work content there by reducing the manufacturing cost.

Increase utilization of available resource like man, machine and work


space.

Making production system more effective.

8.2 Function of Central Industrial Engineering Department

Analyzing the work content of a garment at pre-proto stage for CMS


(Cutting and Manufacturing Charges) with option to negotiate for CMS

After order confirmation the evaluation garment is reanalyzed for better &
economical methods to reduces the negotiated CMS in order to stay in
safe margin

At production stage the factorys achievements are being closely


monitored and recorded, there by creating the awareness of factory status
and requirement to improve its standard and in benchmarking its
achievements.

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Role of Central Industrial Engineering Department

Buyer

Merchandizing

R&D

Planning

CIED

Factory
Sampling

HRD
MIS

Accounts/
Finance

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9. EXPORT DEPARTMENT
Export department receives delivery schedule from marketing department and
confirm the product category, quantity, delivery date and destination of orders with
the concerned merchandiser. The following documents are been prepared.

9.1 Pre Shipment Documentation


9.1.1 AEPC (Apparel Export Promotion Council) Documentation
(a) Preparation of following documents and submitting the same to AEPC

Commercial invoice

Shipping bill

Visa format

AEPC annexure

(b) Ensure that the above documents submitted not later than two days before
shipment
(c) Follow up with AEPC and receive following documents

Endorsed shipping bill

Visa with necessary entries

(d) Ensure that the above documents submitted not later than two days before
shipment
9.1.2 Custom documentation
(a) Selection of C & F (Carriage & Freight) agent
(b) Coordinate with C & F agent and decide on shipping line
(c) Preparation of following documents and the same shall be handed over to the C &
F agent days before the planned shipment:

Customers invoice

GRI

Packing slip

Shopping bill

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Order copy

(d) Follow up with the C & F agent and ensures that the above documents are
submitted to the customs days before the shipment.
(e) Coordinate with C & F agent and receive the following document from him

Bill of lading/ airway bill

Freight cargo receipt

GRI duplicate

9.2 Buying House Documentation


Preparation of following documents and sends the same to buying house not later
than days before shipment
(a) Invoice
(b) Packing list
(c) Visa copy
(d) Bill of lading/ airway bill
(e) Single country declaration
(d) QC report
Follow up with buying house and receive inspection certificate not later than days
before inspection.

9.3 Buyer Documentation


Preparation of following documents and forward to buyer
(a) Commercial invoice
(b) Packing list (colour wise and size wise quantity)
(c) Inspection certificate
(d) Bill of lading/ airway bill

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(e) Any other declaration required by buyer (e.g. Certificate of origin, single country
declaration)
(d) Ensuring the above document reach buyer in time and receiving feed back
(e) Providing any other information required by the buyer.

9.4 Letter Of Credit (LC)


After issuing PO buyer will approach to their bank to open LC and accordingly buyer
bank will issue LC and same will be send to manufacture bank. Then the
manufacturers bank will hand it over to the manufacturer.
Then the manufacturer will go through the LC and if all the terms and conditions are
correct manufacturer will ask their bank to send message to the buyers bank as LC is
accepted.

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10. MATERIAL MAINTENANCE CENTRE


ACL has a centralized fabric and trims store known as Material Maintenance centre
(MMC), situated at SP-76, Industrial Estate, Ambattur. It is one of the most specious
facilities in the company. Its function starts from receiving the fabric and trims, their
inspection, checking the shade variation and shrinkage percentage roll length
verification till the fabric and trim issue to the respective production unit.
Department receives the purchase order of the fabric and trims, purchased by the
purchase department. Goods entered at the gate are checked physically as per the
Purchase Order. It has two separate departments for receiving the fabrics and trims
respectively. The basic work flow in the MMC can be described as follows:

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Fabric / Trims Receiving

Fabric / Trims checking

Fabric / Trims test report

Fabric / Trims issue

10.1 Fabric store:


After verification with concerned merchant, Pre GIN (Goods Inward Notes) is raised
against the supply invoice. Material is received in forms of bales. Each bale carries
100-200 fabric rolls. Now bales are opened and all the data is entered in the computer
and based upon Pre Gin a particular bar code no is assigned to each roll which is
called GIN. Rolls are stored width wise and colour wise in racks.
Total rolls are checked any if there is any shortage, information is sent to Purchase
department.
The MMC has in-house fabric testing laboratory, which is equipped with high
precision and state of art machinery. Lab makes the FIR (First information report of
the fabric received). With in three days of receiving of fabric, lab has to perform all
the tests and has to submit the report to the head. After all the tests, report is made
and sent to merchant whether to accept it or to reject it. After his remarks, swatches
are made and sent to the reputed labs for same tests. After passing from them the
fabric is distributed to the production factories. List of the tests performed by the
MMC lab are as follows:
TEST
Count Determination
Construction
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Pick glass
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Washing fastness
Perspiration fastness
Crocking
Pilling test
Tearing strength
Flammability
pH
Colour matching

Laundromat
Perspirometer
Crocking meter
Pilling tester
Tearing strength tester
Flame Burner
pH meter
Visual Matching

10.1.1 Fabric quality checking: The universally accepted 4-point inspection system
is used to check the fabrics. After receiving the fabric half a meter, full width fabric is
cut. Fabric swatch is cut from this piece for shade identification and to find roll wise
shrinkage. Roll no is marked on each swatch for identification. The fabric is scanned
for all the defects. All the detail of defects with the Non Conformance Report is made
and is issued to concerned merchandiser for the approval. A minimum 10% checking
is done of each received lot.
Checking process: the checking process constitute following steps which are as
follows:

Fabric is being checked as per standard fabric swatch approved by the


merchandiser.

Fabric rolls are checked both in the flat table as well as machine so that the
faults, which could not get detected in the flat table, can be detected on the
machine and vice-versa.

Fabrics are being checked for selvedge to selvedge and centre to selvedge
shade variation.

Defective

samples

are

sent

to

concerned

merchandiser

for

approval/disapproval.

Preparation of Non Conformance Report, which highlights all the defects and
characteristics of the fabric, is issued to the concerned merchandiser. He
decides whether to accept or to reject the fabric roll.

Fabrics are inspected and all defects are marked with stickers for
identification.

Checked are classified as sounds, seconds or rejected.

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Shade identification: The unit has a separate section for fabric shade
identification. Where fabrics are segregated into different shades. It is done by
experts based on their experience.

Shrinkage checking: A square piece of fabric (45 X 45 cm.) is taken for


shrinkage checking. Over locking is done on all four sides to avoid edge
fraying. Four points are marked using a template to check both warp wise and
weft wise shrinkage. After washing in desired conditions the specimen is
taken back to checking section and distance between the two points is noted
by a shrinkage scale.

Width checking- Width of the roll is checked with the help of specimen cut
from the roll and record is maintained.

Note:

Before sending bulk fabric, supplier has to send a pilot yardage of same fabric
to us where the defects and quality of the fabric is analyzed. If this pilot
yardage is meeting the buyers standard, only then bulk order is given to the
supplier, otherwise report is sent to concern merchandiser to sort out the issue.

List of few fabric defects generally found:


S.No.

defects

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1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.

weaving defect
broken warp
oil stains
slubs
warp line
crease marks
stopping marks
knots
holes
broken weft
weft line

10.2 Trims store:


After receiving trims the department raises the Goods Inward Note (GIN) against the
Purchase order of each item. Makes the swatch card with all necessary information
like - PO No, GIN no, buyer, supplier and style. It is sent to the concerned merchant
for approval. After verification Quality checking department checks the quality of
trims received as follows:

Checks 2% of received quantity, if it is ok, trims are sent to issue department


to issue it to production units.

Otherwise checks 5%. In this 5%, if rejection is less than 2%, forward it to
issue department.

Again if checking fails it Checks 10%. In this if rejection is more than 2%,
NCR (Non Conformance Report) is made and sent to concerned merchant.

Note:

A report at each stage is sent to the concerned merchant for


approval/rejection.

For rejected trims, debit note is made and sent to accounts department
mentioning P.O no, quantity, rate, amount.

Thread consumption: Department also finds out the thread consumption. After
finding out thread consumption it is confirmed with the concerned factory.

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Factory finds out the consumption at its side. Comparison of both is done and
approval is given to the minimum.

11. WASHING UNIT


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The Company has recognized the importance of having state of the art wet processing
facility to backup its world class production facility. To achieve this goal, the
company has brought experts from other countries to develop washes and to manage
the laundry. This is also complemented with Capital investment in buying world class
washing equipments.
The company has centralized washing unit to fulfil its all washing and wet processing
needs, located at D-16, Industrial Estate, Ambattur.
In general the quality of the laundry is related to many factors such as:

Quality of the equipment used: washer, dryer etc

Quality of the chemical used: all imported from Europe

The follow up and proper execution of the laundry procedure with well
trained workers and staff, the quality of finished goods get enhanced.

11.1 Work flow in the washing unit for the bulk production
Goods Reception : All the goods after receiving are 100% checked for quality and
entered to the laundry production control systems into the daily washing status
sheet using this system we are able to know and control how many garments are
received, washed, issued and in progress for wet process as well as dry process.
Unwashed Quality Audit: Goods received into laundry for wash are checked before
wash for any quality issue such as fabric defects, sewing quality, uncut sewing thread
etc. 100% check need to be done for 1 st bulk including 32 pieces, and 10% for normal
production. Only when the goods are perfect it will be cleared for wash. If any
defects are found, it will be registered into the Pre-wash quality check reports
sheets, and the defective garments are kept aside. The Pre-wash audit form is then
signed by the quality assurance manager from the laundry and forwarded to
manufacturing manager and QC manager along with the defective goods for their
inspection. We wait for the comment from the sewing plant whether we can proceed
with wash or return the goods for the repair work. After getting approval from the
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manufacturing plant, the pre-wash quality check report form get signed by FM and
QM and returned back to laundry than the goods are proceed for wash.
First bulk wash: No garment is allowed for washing without the approved wash
standards and the shade bands for the same style, after receiving all this, the wash
recipe is taken from the technical laundry department. The production and quality
control work sheet and recipe worksheet is created by the laundry systems in charge,
attached to the goods and handed over to the washing supervisor for the wash. Only
for the first bulk wash, the work sheet printed is green in colour for auditors
identification. On the first bulk, it is 100% quality check up for shade, hand, feel etc.
Bulk wash: Few garments representing the shade range from the first bulk will be
forwarded to the merchandiser for approval before laundry proceeds into further
wash. For any other issue not related to washing, they will inform the factory
accordingly for future care.
Merchandiser will sign the first bulk wash garment and will be accordingly to the
laundry for containing the bulk wash. The final production and quality control
worksheet, repair worksheet and chemical registration slip will be created into
systems for the balance bulk production.
Post wash quality: After drying, the goods are subjected to quality check at the
laundry by QC team. The goods are checked for the shade, hand feel, defects etc. the
% of the total garments check is starting from 20% for the basic wash ( rinse wash,
soft wash) up 100% for stone wash, dyeing and denim. The goods, which are not
satisfying the shade, hand feel, are sent back for re-wash, the number of the rewash
garment is mentioned in the final QC report as correctable pieces, for the goods
satisfying the approved standard and shade are packed and sent to manufacturing
plant.
After that the travelling work sheet will be finalized and saved into laundry quality
systems computer.
Rinses and softener wash 20% check
Enzyme wash, enzyme stone, denim and dye 100% check

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In general for the major defect as shade, holes, streaks etc. They stop washing until
the problem get resolved by looking again through the washing recipe and doing
trails in sampling before proceeding for bulk.
Quality Department: The data from travelling work sheets are saved into the
systems that automatically generate the final QC report for daily production.
The laundry QC supervisor will analyze the final quality report of each order and
update the laundry on the quality issue and get it signed from QC manager and FM
for further action if it needs to be taken.
This final report allowed the production people to control better what they are
producing and stop the problem in the earlier stage. By this method the % of reject
due to washing are minimized.
Chemical Stocks: By using the chemical requisition slip, the quantity of all
chemicals has been saved through laundry systems, and automatically they will be
able to check and control their chemicals stocks daily.
List of washes given in the unit:
S.No.

WASH

S.No.

WASH

1
Enzyme wash
22
Soda wash
2
Enzyme wash-mild
23
Soap wash
3
Enzyme wash-heavy
24
Water wash
4
Bio wash
25
Crinkle wash
5
Band wash
26
Distress wash
6
Detergent wash
27
Colour fixing wash
7
Stone wash
28
Mud wash
8
Bio polish
29
Paper effect wash
9
Anti pilling bio wash
30
Caustic wash
10
Softner wash
31
Leather finishing wash
11
Denim wash
32
Rubber finishing wash
12
Denimax wash
33
Desize wash
13
Dip wash
34
Starch wash
14
Silicon wash
35
Ice wash
15
Ball wash
36
Feather finish wash
16
Silicon ball wash
37
Silky wash
17
Rubber ball wash
38
Carbonised enzyme wash
18
Optical brightness wash
39
Zinc vodka wash
19
Vintage wash
40
Acid wash
AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI
20INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP
Tea stain
wash
41
Stone enzyme washPage 60
21
Bleach wash

11.2 Laundry Machineries Details:


Machine Type
Bulk Wash
Tenello
Ramson
Ramson

M/C Capacity

Machine Type
sample Wash
Ramson
Ramson
Ramson
Ramson
Tonello

M/C Capacity

Machine Type

Dryer Capacity

Ramson

100 kg

400 kg
200 kg
150 kg

35 kg
20 kg
5 kg
3 kg
17 kg

Wash Capacity of
Goods
120 kg
60 kg
60 kg

No of M/C

Wash Capacity of
Goods
15 kg
10 kg
3 kg
2 kg
10 kg

No of M/C

Wash Capacity of
Goods
60 kg

No of Dryer

4
2
4

4
3
2
1
1

24

Note:

In general garments are dried between 55 to 60 degree centigrade and for the
delicate fabric the temperature followed would be 50 degree centigrade.

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12. PRODUCTION UNIT: ACL SP 10/8


12.1 Introduction:
The second stage of our internship includes the study of manufacturing processes in
the Production unit. We had been allotted to carry out our study and project in the SP
10/8.
The Unit is located on the third main road in the Ambattur industrial Estate at a
distance of 2.5 Kilometres from the Head office. It was earlier known as Southern
Garments taken over by ACL in April, 2000. The unit is a bottoms manufacturing
Facility with the production capacity of average 2000 pieces per day.

12.2 Fact Sheet - Ambattur Clothing Limited - SP - 10/8

Total Area & Dept - Wise Area Of Facility


DEPARTMENT

AREA ( SQ FT )

CUTTING

7268.19

PRODUCTION

11698.66

FINISHING

5550.83

COMPRESSOR & BOILER ROOM

748.52

GENERATOR ROOM

769.97

LADIES TOILET

734.37

GENTS TOILET

174.94

CANTEEN

2152.95

TOTAL AREA ( INCLUDING UNUSED )


APPROX
HEIGHT OF THE COMPOUND WALL ( in feet )

INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI

29098.43

7.5

Page 62

Dept - Wise , Sex Wise Employee Strenght Of Facility


WORKERS
MEN
WOMEN
0
0
10
16
4
28
14
4
2
20
3
0
5
4
4
0
27
202
3
2
3
1
1
21

DEPARMENT
ADMINISTRATION
CHECKING
CUTTING
IRONING
KAJA BUTTON
MAINTENANCE
PACKING
PRODUCTION
SEWING
STAIN - REMOVING
STORES
TRIMMING

TOTAL

76

298

STAFF
MEN
4
1
3
0
0
5
4
1
9
0
2
0

WOMEN
2
0
2
0
1
0
0
0
1
0
0
0

29

TOTAL STRENGHT OF THE FACTORY

409

Amenities Provided In The Facility


TOTAL NO OF FIRE EXITS

11

TOTAL NO OF FIRE EXTINGUISHERS

53

INDUSTRIAL TYPE EMERGENCY LIGHTS

13

FIRE ALARM POINTS

13

FIRST AID BOXES ( FULLY LOADED )


TOILETS (MEN)
TOILET (WOMEN)
CANTEEN CAPACITY
MEDICAL CENTRE

6
6
20
150
CENTRALIZED AND PROVIDED AT SP-24

DAY CARE CENTRE

CENTRALIZED AND PROVIDED AT SP-24

Committees
No. OF MEMBERS

FREQUENCY OF MEETING

GRIEVANCE COMMITTEE

13

BI-MONTHLY

CANTEEN COMMITTEE

15

BI-MONTHLY

SAFETY COMMITTEE

14

BI-MONTHLY

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12.3 Organizational Chart- SP 10/8

Mr. Mohan K
Babu
General
Manager

Mr.
Radhakrishnan
Factory
Manager

Mr. Christopher
Franklin
Quality
Manager

Mr. Shankar
Production
Manager

Mr. Wilson
Store
Incharge

Mr. Mohan
Cutting
Incharge

Sewing Line
Incharge
(3)

Supervisor
( 4 per line)

Mr.
Ramakrshna
Finishing
Incharge

Mr. Babu
Ironing
Incharge

INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI

Mr. Miller
Packaging
Incharge

Mr. Sigamani
Button and
Button hole

Mr.
Vasudevan
Defect
Analyser

Quality
Controller /
Checkers
(5)

Page 64

13. LAYOUTS
13.1 Cutting Department Layout:

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13.2 Sewing Department Layout

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13.3 Finishing Department Layout

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13.4 Packaging Department Layout

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14. STORES
The unit has in-house store for the fabric and trims issued from the MMC which
stores the goods for the production period. The store is divided into two sections:
1.

Fabric store

2. Trims store

14.1 Fabric Store:


Process flow:
Fabric received from MMC

Fabric storage

Fabric issue to cutting

14.1.1 A brief description of the process flow:


Fabric receiving: Fabric required for the production is issued from the MMC in the
roll form. The factory maintains Goods receiving note (GRN) for the every issue. The
GRN contains following information:

Buyer no:

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Style no:
Colour:
Width:
Date

Factory

Delivery

Length(in

challan no.

metres)

Grand Total

Total no of
Rolls

Fabric storage: The fabrics received are first shade wise segregated and placed on
the storage racks. However, final segregation is done according to the shade as well
as the shrinkage percentage. The fabric rolls contains specification stickers which
contains following information:
BARCODE
PO No.( purchase order number)
Code
Bale/DC
Po Width
Weight
Supplier code No.
Fabric Description
Count
Takka No.

Lf No.(Ledger folio no.)


Colour
Qty/Mtr
Actual width
Less:0.5:
Batch
Construction
Buyer code

The shade and shrinkage family name is manually written over each roll after
receiving the shrinkage report from MMC.
Fabric issue to the cutting Department: Now according to the time and action plan
(in which cutting date is mentioned), the fabric is issued to the cutting department
and log book is maintained in the cutting department which contains following
information:
Style No. :
Buyer Name :
Fabric Colour :
Fabric :
Garment Description:
Order quantity :
Fit of the Garment:
Fusing to be used :
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FABRIC
SAMPLE

Page 70

Warp shrinkage (%):

Weft shrinkage (%):

14.2 Trims Store:


Process Flow:
Trims received from MMC

Trims storage

Trims release for the sewing

14.2.1 A brief description of the process flow:


Trims receiving: According to the style and order quantity trims and accessories are
issued from the MMC and received to the production unit. Here also, Goods
receiving note is maintained, which contain following details:
D.C. receiving date

D. C. No

Style No

Items

Nos.

Trims storage: According to the type and quantity trims and accessories are kept in
the designated racks placed in the store. The list of different types of trims and
accessories are given below:

Labels:
Main label (contains brand name and trademark)
Tab label (contains detail about company)
Care content label (contains content of the fabric)
Size label (size of the garment)
Wash care label (wash care instructions)
Vendor ID label (contains name of the vendor)

Buttons

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Zippers

Locker loop

BTW tape

Trims release: A trim card is made for each and every order containing all the
qualitative and quantitative trims specifications needed for that order. Exact
samples for each item are also attached on the card for identification. It also
includes the information about the buyer, style, ACL style, GMT (garment),
Quantity. The accessories are matched with the samples and then issued to the
sewing department.

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15. CUTTING DEPARTMENT


The department receives marker plan from the E2 unit which consist of following
information:

Marker length

Marker width

Buyer name

Version

Sizes

Marker efficiency

According to the marker plan spreading is planned and a Lay Slip is maintained in
the following format:
Format no
Version
Lot no
Book no
Style no
Name of buyer
Counted by
Name of cutter
QC name & checked by
H.O.D

Item code
Fabric width
Lay length
Colour
No of layers
Sizes
Lay starting time
Lay finishing time
Shade

Lay starting and lay finishing time helps the supervisor in monitoring the hourly
target for the spreading:
Target

40 plies/hr (approx.)

Spreader also maintains the spreading particulars in Lay Info slip as following:
Date

Cut no -

18/5/07

Lay length

5.23 mts

Lay width

51

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Sizes Colour Roll no


Black 5404

XS, S, M, L
Quantity
61

Shade Takka no
A

No of plies
11

Balance Lay sequence


3.70
1

Process flow in Cutting Department:

Roll segregation

Roll opening

Fabric inspection

Fabric relaxation

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Spreading

Lay relaxation

Cutting
Ticketing and
bundling of cut parts
Fusing

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Cut part inspection

Approved bundle

Cutting storage

Disapproved bundle

Bit end storage

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Damage cutting and


replacement

Cutting storage

15.1 A brief description of the process flow in Cutting Department:


Roll segregation: The fabrics issued for the production are first numbered. Pre wash
and after wash samples are taken from each roll and they are categorized in the three
families that are A, B and C. The categorization is based on the number of factors
like colour, shade, shrinkage. But the major factors considered here are shrinkage
percentage (max. 2.5%*1.0%) and shade variation.
Fabric opening and inspection: At this stage the fabric rolls are put on the clamp
placed on the inspection table and the rolls are opened in the opposite direction so
that the fabric can slide down easily and simultaneously the inspection is also carried

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out and the fabric is being kept in relaxed / loose form on fabric relaxation trolley for
2-5 hours.
Spreading and relaxation: In this process, first a brown paper is spread over the
table which is fixed on the table by the cellotape. After that the fabric is laid flat over
the table so that the uniformity in the fabric can be obtained while cutting. For this
purpose, generally wooden scales are used to remove the wrinkles and crimps. Lay
weights (iron blocks) are also used for keeping the correct fabric alignment. The
spreading table used are made up of wooden base with plywood surface mounted on
the

steel

stand.

The

dimensions

of

the

table

are

11m*1.5m*1m

(length*breadth*height).The ply cutting or the lay cutting for the spreading purpose
is done by the rotary cutter. Generally 75-125 lays are put in one spread and average
height of the lay is 3.75 inches. The lays are kept for the period of 5-12 hours for the
proper relaxation. However, the relaxation time depends on the nature of the fabric,
temperature and relative humidity at the work. In spreading, the lay length and fabric
consumption calculation are done on the basis of CAD marker.
Cutting: The CAD marker needed for the cutting comes from the E2 / E3 units, are
actually size set samples markers. These markers are further manually modified by
the cutting master as per the modification needed for the bulk production. Now, are
placed over the spreaded lay and cutting is carried out with the help of straight knife.
Band knifes are also used for cutting smaller and complicated parts while Drill
markers are used for making holes for the marking purposes.
Fusing: The fabric cut parts which require fusing before the stitching are sent to the
fusing section. It has two fusing machines. The temperature of fusing machine is set
according to

The type of thermal shrinkage of the shell fabric

The type of interlining used

The type of fusible resin (polyethylene, polypropylene, polyester etc)

The type of fusing whether it is double, reverse or sandwich fusing.

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The section also maintains the Daily Fusing and Bonding Strength Report in the
following format:
Buyer style-BR-514519
Temp
Sample
F Noon
A Noon

Pressure

Date-31/05/07
Time

Bonding strength

Sec
11
11

GMS
800
800

C
Kg/sq cm
125
1.5
125
1.5
Factory ACL-SP 10/8

Length in inches
Before
4
4

After
4
4

Width in inches

Change
Before
3
3
Interlining-P*313

F Noon Sample

After
3
3

A Noon Sample

The fusing equipment must provide control over three major factors as instructed by
R&D Department:

Time

Temperature

Pressure

Machine setting is also checked after every two hours and recorded in Fusing Report:
Date
31/05/07

8:30
125C

10:30
125C

12:30
125C

3:00
125C

5:00
125C

Signature

Any other

Signature
CE

Fusing defects are also checked and record is maintained as


Date

Setting
FN

AN

No
bubbling
F N AN

No colour
change
FN
AN

Bonding
strength
FN
AN

FN

AN

31/05/0
7

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Change
-

Ticketing and Bundling: After that the cut parts are allotted with ticket number and
stickers are used for this purpose, which consist whole description about the part and
now the bundling is done. The cut parts of similar types are put in one bundle.
However, the number of cut pieces in a bundle varies with the production runs and
the sizes. The stickering operators are issued with the list of numbers, which has to be
stuck on the cut parts. Each operator has the following info to stick the tickets issued
by the department. Example:

Lot no
Destination
Style No.
Colour
Lilly rose

Size
XS
S
M
L

Version
Cut no
Lay length
Takka no
4962(D)83, 3930(E)85
4962(D)309, 3930(E)311
4962(D)227, 3930(E)229
4962(D)83, 3930(E)85

Date
Time
Page No.
Bundle no
7192450
7192454
7192458
7192462

Pcs
20
20
20
20

FPLY
83
309
227
83

TPLY
102
328
246
102

Operators adjust their ticketing gun according to the numbers issued to them and
three different stickers are put on the every cut piece. The placement of label/sticker
on the cut pieces is pre decided in the pre production meeting.
Sticker Details:
324702
ZB500267 * 3/2/
USA/ SHADOW

Style number
Destination / Colour

8208344 31/30
[71-73] 3
5 - Fly

[Ply No.] No. of pieces

ZBJO33742 (B)

Takka No. ( Shade)

Lot No. * Cut No. / Size serial /

Bundle No. Size / Inseam

Parts name

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Cut part inspection: The cut parts are inspected as per the damages and the ticket
number and if any discrepancies are found they are sent to bit end storage section
other wise bundle is approved and sent to the sewing department by the trolleys. For
confirming proper cut quality 100% panel checking is done as well as from each cut
block top, middle and bottom panel are matched against original pattern as well as
each other for the exact and even measurements.
Bit end storage: Here end bit of the fabric which is in production run are kept and if
any damage part in the bundle is found then according to the shade again parts are
cut and damaged parts are replaced in the bundle. Thus, again the same ticket number
is allotted to that particular cut piece and sent to the sewing departments.

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15.2 Machinery and Table details in the Cutting department:


15.2.1 Tables:
Tables
Spreading table
Inspection table
Cutting table
Damage cutting
Ticketing
Bundling

No.
5
2
2
1
1
1

No. of worker/table
2
4
3
5
3
7

15.2.2 Machinery:
Machine
Straight knife
Band knife
Drill marker
Rotary cutter
Fusing machine
Rod Clamp
Stickering machine

No.
2
2
2
1
1
2
2
1
5

Operators/machine
1
1
1
1
3
3
2
2
1

Make/ Model
Eastman machine Co.
Blue Streak BS2
KM bk-700
Eastman machine Co. CD3
Ngai Shing NS-71
Hashima
Kannegiesser
Local
BlitzTextile Mod.2234

No.
5
10
5
10
10
10

Make
Local
Local
Orient/Usha
Elite
Gec Alsthom
Local

15.2.3 Miscellaneous:
Items
Racks
Trolleys
Fans/Table
Tube light/Table
Exhaust fan
Lay weights

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15.3 Quality Checking In Cutting Room


15.3.1 Spreading operator procedures for Spreading auditor:
S.NO.
1

WHAT
Narrow
goods

WHY
To ensure that all
the plies extend
beyond the
marker line.

count

Leaning
edge

Marker

Marker
placement

To ensure correct
quality of the lay
as well as to
ensure that plies
extend to the
table marking
line at both
sides/ends.
To ensure that
one edge of the
lay is square to
the table.
To make sure that
marker is not
over torn, over
lapped, creased,
damaged or
altered
To ensure that all
cut part are
complete

Tension

To ensure that
spread is not
slack or tight,
very much
important for
knits and stretch
fabrics.

HOW
Visual
inspection by
checking far
edge of the lay
with marker line
By counting
plies at both
ends of the lay.

WHO
Quality
controller

WHEN
At random during
laying and after
the completion of
lay before cut.

Quality
controller

After spread is
finished and
before the cut.

Visual
inspection

Quality
controller

Visual
inspection and
check against
original patterns

Quality
controller/
supervisor

At random during
the laying and
after completion
of lay before cut.
After marker is
put on lay and
before cut.

Marker should
be placed
parallel to
selvedge of the
lay i.e. visual
inspection
Visual
inspection

Quality
controller/
Cutter

After marker is
put on lay and
before cut

Quality
controller/
spreader

At random during
laying

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15.3.2

Standard

operation

procedures

for

cutting

supervisor:
S.No.
1

WHAT
Check actual
temperature

Check actual
time

Visual check

Bond
strength test

Durability
wash

Mocks of
fusing parts
(interlining
placement)
Fusing
specification

WHY
To check against
RnD
specification for
conformity
To check against
RnD
specification for
conformity
To ensure no
discolouration,
no adhesive, no
bubbling coming
out shell
To ensure
durability of
bonding
To check bond
strength and
variation in
shrinkage
As a ready
reference for parts
that are to be
fused
As a ready
reference

HOW
Thermal stripe/
digital meter

WHO
Quality
controller

WHEN
Once in 2
hours

Stop Watch

Quality
controller

Morning and
evening

Visual

Quality
controller

Once in 2
hours

Spring balance/
manual

Quality
controller

Morning and
Afternoon as
per the
buyers
specification
Once in a day

Quality
controller
Visual display

Cutting
supervisor

During entire
run of the
style

By interlining test
report or approved
fusing specification

Cutting
supervisor

During entire
run of the
style

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15.3.3

Standard

operation

procedures

for

fusing

HOW
Stripe/
digital meter

WHO
Mechanic
/ Quality
controller

WHEN
Morning
and after
noon

Stop Watch

Mechanic
/ Quality
controller

Morning
and after
noon

Control
knobs

Mechanic
/ Quality
controller

Morning
and after
noon

As per the
manufacture
rs manual
guidelines

mechanic

As
stipulated
by the
manufactur
er

mechanic:
S.No.
1

WHAT
Temperature

Time

Pressure

Machine
cleaning

WHY
To set the fusing
machine as per the
RnD or approved
specification
To set the fusing
machine as per the
RnD or approved
specification
To set the fusing
machine as per the
RnD or approved
specification
Daily maintenance

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16. SEWING DEPARTMENT


The sewing department consists of the actual work floor in the production unit. The cut
parts are received from the cutting department and data is recorded in the following
format:

Style:

Date:

Country:

Time:

S. no.
1.
2.

Cut no
3
3

Prepared by

Marker
3
4

Colour Size
Black M
Black L
Issued by

From bundle
7192827
7192837

To bundle
7192836
7192846

Received by

F Ply
277
180

T Ply
476
379

Cutting supervisor

After receiving the cut parts they are again counted by the receiver to counter check. The
setting and process flow of the sewing department changes with every order. Before the
execution of the order, the operation breakdown of the garment is done and operation
bulletin is made. The operation bulletin acts as the tool for the line balancing and helps in
production target achievement. According to this breakdown the sewing line is set so that
the through put time can be reduced for the smooth production flow. The production
bulletin prepared for the sewing comes from the CIED department.
All sewing operators are provided with a production slips (time sheet) in which bundle
stickers are stuck as soon as bundle operation gets completed. The work slips are counted
after every two hours to prepare the manual production report as well as the barcode are
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scanned and hourly production status is fed into the production management system. It
helps to check the efficiency of each operator at regular intervals. At the end of the day
total production report is made.
There are five checkpoints in each line to check the quality. If any problem occurs the
production manager and executives gets into immediate action and rectification is done for
producing any quality garment.

The sewing department is divided into four parts:


1. Line A
2. Line B
3. Line C and
4. Kaja Section

16.1 Line Section:


Lines A, B, and C are general sewing line which execute all the main sewing operations.
The workflow of the section has been described below with the help of ANN TAYLOR
ladies bottom order which was running during our tenure.
The garment style has been divided into nine groups and further subdivided into detailed
production procedures. The Operation breakdown for the style is as follows:
1.FLY
Make Flybox
Turn Flybox
Press Flybox
Serge Fly & Flybox
Topstitch Flybox
Tack Flybox O/L Threads
2.WAIST BAND
Make Top Waistband Face
Attach Top Waistband Middle Waistband
Join Waistband Panels (3 Pc)
Dummy Stitch Waistband
Press Waistband
Attach Inner Waistband To Outer Waistband
Mark Waistband
Make Waistband
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Turn Waistband Face


Attach Tunnel Patch to Waistband
Make Lable
Attach Lable To Back
3.SIDE POCKET
Serge Pocket Facing
Serge Front Pocket Bag

4.BACK FLAP
Make Flap
Turn Flap (Rectangular)
Topstitch Flap
Ready Cut Flap
Attach Tab to Flap

5.FRONT
Serge Front Rise
Attach And Topstitch Fly
Attach Zipper To Fly
Attach Flybox To Zipper
Topstitch Front With Flybox And Zipper
Attach Facing Scoop Pocket to Front
Turn And Press Front Pocket
Topstitch Front Pocket Mouth
Attach Pocket To fornt
Stay Stitch Front Pocket At Side And Waist
Sew J-Stitch
Sew Front Rise

6.BACK
Mark Back For Welt Pocket And Dart
Sew Darts
Press Back Dart
Topstitch Dart All round
Serge Pocket Facing
Make Welt Pocket
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Turn Welt
Press Welt
Tack Welt
Topstitch Down Welt
Topstitch Top Welt
Serge Welt Pocket Bag
Pattern Stitch On Welt Pocket Bag
Attach Back Pocket Flap To Back
Topstitch Back Pocket Flap

7.SUB ASSEMBLY
Match Front With Back
Sew Side Seam
Topstitch Side Seam
Sew Inseam
Sew Back Rise
Topstitch Back Rise
Topstitch Back Rise
Attach Label at Side

8.ASSEMBLY
Mark Body For Loops & Waistband
Match Waistband With Body
Attach Waistband To Body
Close Waistband Face
Topstitch Waistband All around
Hem Bottom

9.FINISHING
Attach Button to Waistband
Keyhole Waistband
Attach Button To Back
Keyhole Flap
Bartack Crotch & Fly
Bartack Front Pocket
Bartack Welt Pocket
Attach Snap To Waistband (Female)
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Attach Snap Button (Male)

16.2 Kaja Section:


Process Flow:
Kaja Marking

Kaja Making

Button Marking

Button attach

Button shank wrapping

Button and Kaja checking

Sticker removing
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16.2.1 A brief description of the process flow:


Kaja Marking and Making:

This Section receives the sewn garments. Initially

templates and pins are used to mark the kaja position. Now kaja are made the marked
position by the specialised machine.
Button Marking and Attaching: Similarly with the help of button attaching machine
buttons are attached at the marked positions.
Button Shank wrapping: Now the button shank is wrapped by the button shank
wrapping machine to provide strength and tight hold to the buttons on the fabric surface.
Button and Kaja checking: There is a separate inspection table for the kaja section where
proper button and kaja placement and alignment are checked. If any discrepancies found
they are again sent back for correction.
Sticker Removing: Now finally stickers are removed from the garments and they are
further sent to the washing or the finishing department.

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16.3 Quality Checking In Sewing Room


Each production step is followed by a quality checking point. The quality parameters that
are taken into consideration at each quality check points for bottoms are described as
follows:
Quality Checking Scope for Front:
1. SPI: 7 for top stitch and SPI: 10-12 for attaching.
2. Front pocket opening should be both ways (horizontal and vertical)
3. J- stitch width 1 3/8 and J- stitch should be per pattern shape with 1/4 DNLS
4. Front rise attaching should be on curve and avoid puckering.
5. Front pocket top stitch should be even and avoid puckering.
6. Front top stitch and front pocket opening should be 5/16 DNLS.
7. Front pocket shape should be as per the pattern and both ways identical, avoid high
and low.
8. Down fly shape should be as per the pattern.
9. Front pocket opening should be 1/8 loose.
10. Front pocket bag seam piping should be even all around.
Quality Checking Scope For Back:
1. SPI: 7 for top stitch.
2. Back pocket dart DNTS distance should be 5/16
3. Flap should be centred to welt with 5/16 DNTS.

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4. Back welt pocket should be balanced both sides.


5. Back pocket DNTS should be 5/16 even all around and as per the pattern shape.
6. Button hole should be centred to the flap.
7. Back welt pocket smiling not allowed
8. Back pocket bag seam piping should be even all around.
9. Avoid pocket high low both ways (horizontal and vertical).
10. Flap tab should be centred to the flap.

Quality checking scope for side attachment:


1. SPI: 7 for top stitch.
2. Side seam DNTS width should be 5/16 even in both the panels.
3. Side seam over lock quality should be neat and clean with SPI: 10
4. Edge stitch should be on the right side of the wearer.
5. Avoid loose and skip stitches at the double needle top stitch.
6. avoid puckering at inseam over lock and SPI should be 14
7. Back rise DNTS should be and avoid puckering and loose stitches.
8. Front rise should be single needle edge stitch.
Quality Checking Scope For Waist Band Attachment:
1. SPI: 7 for top stitch.
2. Waist band joint and side seam should match.
3. Waist band attaching seam margin should be even.
4. Avoid puckering while waist band attaching.
5. Waist band high low is not allowed.
6. Waist band centre front should be straight.
7. Crotch joint should match.
8. Main label should centre to the waist band at centre back.
9. Back pocket and lip high low should be avoided.
10. Face closing should be straight and avoid run off stitches.
Quality checking scope for end of the line:
1. SPI: 7 for top stitch.
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2. Waist band height 1 even all over.


3. Waist band finishing should be proper , avoid puckering and roping.
4. Waist band high low not allowed.
5. Waist band roping inside not allowed.
6. Waist band top stitch should be even avoid joint stitches.
7. Waist band should be straight at centre front between hem height double fold
while roping and puckering should be avoided.
8. Waist band lip should be even all around.
9. Eye let placement should be as per the sample

16.4 Machine and Equipment details in sewing department:


16.4.1 Machines:
Machine
SNLS (without UBT)
SNLS (with UBT)
3- Thread overlock
4- Thread overlock
5- Thread overlock
Welt pocket maker
SNLS Edge cutter
Chain stitch
Double needle lock stitch
Snap attaching
Feed of arm
Bartack
Keyhole (kaza)
Button attach
Button hole
Button shank wrapping

No.
18
2
120
20
4
3
15
2
18
10
2
40
4
2
7
2
2
3
1
1

Make
JUKI
Brother
JUKI
Brother
JUKI
JUKI
JUKI
Beiser
JUKI
JUKI
Brother
JUKI
Ngai Shing
JUKI
Brother
Brother
JUKI
JUKI
Brother
Ascolite

No. of operator/ machine


1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1

16.4.2 Miscellaneous:
Items
Checking tables

No.
18

INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI

Make
Local
Page 94

Hangers
Fans
Tube light
Exhaust fan
Chairs

9
90
312
7
270

Local
Orient/Usha
Elite
Gec Alsthom
Local

17. FINISHING DEPARTMENT


The machine setting and work flow of the finishing department also changes with the
order and style. The process flow described below is according to the ANN TAYLOR
ladies bottom order.
Process Flow:

Washed Garment received

Draw cord

Trimming

Inside Checking

Stitching repair

Stain removal
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Page 95

Thread suckering

Bulk ironing

2nd Garment checking

Security label attaching

Tag attaching

Final stain removing

Belt tieing

Final ironing and folding

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Draw cord tacking

Measurement Checking

Security label attaching

Tag attaching

Final stain removing

Belt tieing

Final ironing & folding

17.1 A brief description of the process flow in Finishing Department:


Washed Garment Receiving: The unit do not have the in-house washing department so
the garments are sent to the central washing unit at D-16. Generally, it takes one day for
the washing and washed garments are received after one day.

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Draw Cord: This step is for this style only as per the design requirement.
Trimming: After this the garments are sent to the trimming table, where extra thread is
trimmed from the garment and a trimming report is also maintained as follows:
S. No

Name of
Operator

9:15 10:15

11:15

...

5:00

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.

22
22

22
10

22
20

13.

22
242

10
235
477

20
240
2190

Total
Grand total

Inside Checking: After receiving the garments, inside checking is done to check out
defects like broken stitches, skip stitches and uncut threads etc. After checking the
garment each checker has to stick a sticker at each garment, inspected by her. Each sticker
has a particular number assigned to that checker to track out which garment is being
inspected by which checker. A set format is given to each checker to maintain the record
of defects at various areas like A/H, cuffs etc. It also helps to find out the total garments
inspected by the checker and percentage defectives found.
Stitch Repairing: In case of any sewing defect the respective garments are sent back to
sewing line to repair it immediately. However, finishing department has its own tailors to
repair the minor faults. To rectify defects, checker puts the clip at the defective garments
after tying the defective area with the help of thread. Each clip has a particular no assigned
to each checker. After repairing the garments are sent back to the respective checker to
recheck
Stain Removing: As each garment suffers multiple handling right from receiving the
fabric to the finishing, it leads to stain marks on the garments. So, the garments are sent to
stain removal section to remove the stains from the garments. These stains are removed by
stain removal guns in which white petrol is used to remove the stains. Sometime they also
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use stain removing sprays. Here, also each operator sticks the particular sticker assigned to
her to track out the garment handled by her.
Thread suckering: Now the garments are exposed to the thread sucker machine where
the left over cut threads are sucked from the garments.
Bulk ironing: The department has fourteen pressing work stations, where the garments
are passed for the pressing.
2nd checking: Now the garments are sent to 2nd checking to find out fabric defects, shade
variation, shape distortion (bottom shape, cuff and placket shape etc.), minor stitching
defects etc. After checking the garment each checker has to stick a sticker at each garment,
inspected by her. Each sticker has a particular number assigned to that checker to track out
which garment is being inspected by which checker.
At the 1st checking stage, major concern is stitching defects and extra threads only.
Draw cord tacking: This step is also style specific as per the design of this garment only.
Measurement Checking: The garments are now sent to the measurement checking table
where all critical measurements are taken and matched according to the specifications and
tolerance.
Security Label attaching: This is also a buyer specified attachment as in this style RFID
security labels are attached.
Tag attaching: Here price tags and wash care labels along with the extra buttons are
attached with the garment.
Final Stain removing: Again stain removing is done by the sprayer before final packing.
Belt tieing: This is also specific to this style only as per the buyer specification.
Final folding and packing: It is the final step in which garment is folded as per the
packing instructions and packed in the poly bags.

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All garments are passed to needle detection machine to meet the safety compliance
of the buyer before the packing. But it is done for a few buyers only.

17.2 Machine and Equipment details in finishing department:


17.2.1 Machines:
Machine
Needle detector
Pressing work station
Thread sucker

No.
1
14
1

Operators/machine
2
1
1

Make/ Model
HASIMA/ HN740 G

Ramsons Veil
Ramsons

17.2.2 Miscellaneous:
Items
Checking tables
Storage bin
Fans
Tube light

No.
55
3
48
143

INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI

Make
Local
Ramsons
Orient/Usha
Elite

Page 100

18. PACKAGING DEPARTMENT


Process Flow:

Receive finished garment

Shade checking

Placing shade sticker

Garment alignment check

Packet concealing

Barcode scanning

Size sorting

Packing in carton

Sent to store

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18.1.1 A brief description of the process flow in Packaging Department:


The finished garments kept in the polyethylene bag are sent to the packaging Department,
where firstly shade checking is done in order to the matching the shade written on the
polyethylene bag with the actual garment pieces. Shade checking is done on a ordinary
wooden table with tube light mounted on the top by the stand and the inspection area is
enclosed from three side by thermocol sheets. After that packets are sent to another table,
where an operator puts shade sticker on the approved packets and another worker conceal
the packet after checking the proper alignment of the garment inside the packet. Now, the
barcode scanning of the packed garment pieces is done and all data are fed into the
computer. Scanned pieces are stacked and separated on the basis of sizes and shades on
the other table, where garment polybags are kept in the cardboard cartons and cartons are
concealed by the adhesive tape. Only 10 pieces of garments are kept in one carton. These
cartons are again sent to the stores by the trolleys and one trolley has the capacity of 18
cartons. The carton dimensions and specifications are given by buyer. Generally two
dimensions are used i.e. for bottoms 37*30*18 cm3 and for shirts 66 *39* 22.5 cm3.

18.2 Equipment Details in packaging Department:


Items
Tables
Barcode reader
Weighing machine
Fans
Tube
Exhaust fans
Trolleys

No.
3
1
1
6
12
6
5

INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI

Model/Make
Local
ARGOX
F6AP/ ATCO
Usha
Philips
Usha
Local

Page 102

18.3 Polybag, Barcode, Carton Sticker Details


Descriptions printed on the Polybags:
Example:
DEPT
STYLE
COLOUR
SIZE
P.O.
SHADE GROUP

#69
#208993
#7440
#6P
#971875
B

Barcode details fed in the Computer per carton:


Example:
CTN NO.
389
389
389
389
389
389
389
389
389

SHADE
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A

COLOUR
SEA- SIDES
SEA- SIDES
SEA- SIDES
SEA- SIDES
SEA- SIDES
SEA- SIDES
SEA- SIDES
SEA- SIDES
SEA- SIDES

SIZE
OOP
OP
2P
4P
6P
8P
10P
12P
14P

ACT PCS
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1

SCAN PCS
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1

Sticker details on the carton:


Example:
P.O.(Purchase order number)#
DEPT
STYLE
COLOUR
SHADE LOT
SIZE
QTY
PACK SKU
DIM
GROSS WEIGHT
NET WEIGHT
PACK RATIO

972130
59 - MISSY
203860
1295
A
10 pcs.
81230815
37*30*18 cms
4.450 Kgs.
3.700 Kgs.
OOP/1 OP/2 2P/3 4P/2 6P/2 8P/2 10P/2 12P/1
14P/1 TTL/14

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19. QUALITY CONTROL DEPARTMENT


To ensure the right quality of the product is one of the important objectives of the
company.

Therefore, Quality control is applied at every stage of the garment i.e.

spreading, cutting, sewing, washing, finishing and packaging..


There is 100% inline inspection and end line inspection for the garments. Hourly reports
are made for the checking and follow up of the repairs.
Statistical process control technologists are employed to improve on the quality standards.
In ACL Statistical process control starts from laying and cutting. An Statistical process
control checker fills up the spread quality report and control quality report, there reports
indicates any defects or imperfections in tension of lay, pattern sizes, width variation etc.
In sewing Four Statistical process control checkers carry out Statistical process control
checking at 4 critical points, also the factory quality control team go on taking rounds of
line. The merchandiser, buyer, quality checker and R&D people come for inspection too.
AQL (Accepted Quality level) is set as per the buyer recommendations.
The number of inline checkers and end line checkers are as follows:Inline checkers: 3
End line checkers: 2

19.1 List of the details to be checked in Cutting Department:

SL. NO

Version

Style No

Fabric

Cut No

Lay Length

No. Piles

Table Marking

Marker Placing

Ends

Marrow Goods

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Leaning

Tension

Counts

Marker

Total Defects

Sign QC

Cutting Super

19.2 List of the defects checked during the inline and end line checking,
and the quality audits:

fabric defects

colour shading

broken stitches

skip stitches

uneven SPI

loose stitches

insecure button/snap

high low

raw edge

needle holes

unwanted pleats

missing operation

run off stitch

incorrect labels

stains/dirt marks

stickers

uncut thread

out tolerance

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19.3 Audit Flow Chart in Ambattur Clothing Limited

Before Wash Audit

After Wash Audit

Before Packaging Audit

External Audit by R&D


Department

19.3.1 Sample Selection Techniques at different stages of the Quality Audit:


Type of Audit
before finishing
Before wash/ after
finishing
After wash

No of
samples
7

Total no of the samples

Rejection level

Total production one


hour
500

500

2 minor/ 1 major
defect
2 minor/ 1 major
defect
2 minor/ 1 major
defect

NOTE:

After external audit is done buyer representative is invited for the audit. The AQL
depends on the buyer. E.g. the AQL for Levis is 2.5 whereas for J-JILL it is zero
(0).

All the quality inspection sheets are in the annexure.

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Page 106

20. MAINTAINENCE DAPARTMENT


The department is run by two senior mechanics and three helpers who ensure the smooth
running of the production. The responsibilities of maintenance department can be divided
as follows:
1) Preventive maintenance
2) Break down maintenance
3) Spares inventory
4) Arrangement of machines, folders and attachments
5) General maintenance
6) Work shop

20.1 Preventive Maintenance Procedure


Daily check schedule of mechanics (during working hours) includes:

20.1.1 Mechanical maintenance: on daily basis

Needle point sharpness, bent

Oil leakage

SPI

Seam quality

Thread path

Attachment positions / alignment

20.1.2 Electrical maintenance:

One electrician takes care of all the sewing floor and checks all the live lines for
insulation.

Weekly inspection and cleaning of all the electrical lines of any foreign materials

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and rectifying loose connections

Cleaning of panel boards on a fortnightly basis

20.2 Breakdown Maintenance


20.2.1 Mechanical maintenance:
Each line is attended by a mechanic who will take care of breakdown maintenance in that
line and his functions can be summarized as follows:

Reports to chief mechanic who looks after all the lines.

Maintains a breakdown log book where the machine down time is noted.

Machines with major problems are sent to the workshop.

Line mechanic also maintenance a log book for broken and blunt needles.

20.2.2 Electrical maintenance:


An electrician is also deputed to take care of electrical maintenance on the sewing floors
Any major problems are reported to head of breakdown maintenances.

20.3 Spares Inventory


It includes:

Following buyer compliance

Maintaining needle log book

Broken needle is affixed completely ( including the broken part ) in the prescribed
format

If the broken part cannot be traced, the garment around that particular area will be
passed through needle detector

Blunt and bent needles are collected in a sealed box and audited by the concerned
buyer the QC every so often.

Needle detector is calibrated twice a day with the gauges and readings are

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Page 108

documented.

20.4 Arrangement of Machines, Folders, and Attachments

The machines, attachments and folders requirement list for new style is given by
the production manager at pre production meeting

The requirement list is reconciled with the stores stock and items that are not
available indented giving the full specification of the purchase department

All the materials that are received from supplier are checked 100% for quality and
specification by the store keeper. The material stock is updated in the spares
registers with all the relevant details.

20.5 General Maintenance


It includes following:

Cleaning the machines completely from stand to machine head

Cleaning of oil ( taking the foreign materials from the oil reservoir)

All machines are provided with eye guard and finger guard

The band knife and cloth cutting machines operators are given metal gloves to
avoid accidents

All power points are provided with earthing to avoid accidents.

20.6 Workshop
Workshop involves the repair and fabrication of the damaged machine and machine parts.
Folders and attachments are as per the requirements of sewing line. Some of the
attachments fabricated here are also sent to other units of the company.

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21. PROJECT
AIM: Cutting and Sewing Department Process Analysis for increasing productivity in the
SP 10/8 unit.
DURATION: 7 days
METHODOLOGY APPLIED: Analysis of test reports and working procedures to find
out the deviation from the standard operating procedures.
INSPECTION AREA GIVEN BY THE FACTORY MANAGER:
In Cutting Department:

Shrinkage and shade sorting

Fabric relaxation

Cut Quality

Damage Cutting

Production time

In Sewing Department:

Pre production operation

In line Problems

DATA COLLECTION AND ANALYSIS:


In cutting Department:

Shrinkage and shade sorting: The test report sent by the MMC is followed and
proper roll segregation is done. Therefore there is not any problem.

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Fabric relaxation: recommended fabric and lay relaxation time is given so problem
regarding uneven lay length and stretching is not found. Lay checking is also
carried out and the bowing is corrected by making notches as well as pulling the
fabric in opposite direction.

Cut Quality: lay height is set according to the buyer specification as well as the
nature of the fabric. For confirming proper cut quality 100% panel checking is
done as well as from each cut block top, middle and bottom panel are matched
against original pattern as well as each other for the exact and even measurements.
So, there is no problem regarding the cut Quality.

Damage Cutting: End bit of the fabric which is in production run are kept in store
and if any damage part in the bundle is found then according to the shade again
parts are cut and damaged parts are replaced in the bundle. Thus, again the same
ticket number is allotted to the cut pieces and sent to the sewing departments.

Production time: There is no time lag has been found in the cutting room. All
orders are cut before or on the scheduled time.

Suggestions:

The marker efficiency is generally 70% so there is no measures have been taken to
utilize waste fabric in constructive way. Those can be used for the operators
training as well as for their stitch practices.

Whenever new blade is fed in the straight knife frayed edges and wavy marks are
seen on the lay sides. This should not be ignored.

The capacity of the cutting room is under utilization, it can take approx. 5% more
orders.

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Page 111

In Sewing Department:
1. Pre production operation:

Production manager, executive and supervisor make the operation breakdown


according to the CIED recommendation as well as the convenience and comfort of
operators. This is done 3 days before the production in the pre production meeting.

Operators and tailors are assigned for the each and every operation in one day
advance.

List of the machineries and folders required for the production are given to the
maintenance department three to seven days in advance.

Capacity of the operator: at the time when any critical operation or bottleneck is
found in the line, then by time study operators capacity for an hour is calculated
by production manager/ executive.

Production executive / supervisor also analyses the way of stitching and operators
feedback may suggest some new innovative ideas for doing that operation.

Therefore nothing objectionable found in the preproduction operations.


2. Inline Problems:
Absenteeism: Through out the period of our internship we observed it as a one of the
major problem in order to increase productivity. This leads to major line imbalancement
and every day undesirable time and production is lost due to this. Therefore some time it is
INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI

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difficult to overcome the start up losses. However, a full function line can produce up to
850 pieces per day but it is rarely achieved. It also causes non uniformity in the stitches as
different people have different way of stitching. Due to absence of a skilled tailor, stitch
quality also deteriorates as well as that place has to fill with two semi skilled operators.
Absenteeis

Workers

Date

m%

present

7-Jun-07
8-Jun-07
9-Jun-07
11-Jun-07
12-Jun-07
13-Jun-07
14-Jun-07
15-Jun-07
16-Jun-07
18-Jun-07
19-Jun-07
20-Jun-07
21-Jun-07
22-Jun-07
23-Jun-07
25-Jun-07
26-Jun-07
27-Jun-07
28-Jun-07
29-Jun-07
30-Jun-07
2-Jul-07
3-Jul-07
4-Jul-07

12.94118
10.58824
7.058824
16.47059
12.94118
10.58824
11.76471
11.76471
11.76471
11.76471
11.76471
11.76471
11.76471
11.76471
11.76471
11.76471
11.76471
8.235294
8.235294
8.235294
8.235294
8.235294
8.235294
10.58824

74
76
79
71
74
76
75
75
75
75
75
75
75
75
75
75
75
78
78
78
78
78
78
76

The absenteeism percentage in Line A is given below for the reference.

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Graphical Representation of Absenteeism percentage in Line A

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18
16
14
12
10
8
6
4
2
0
7- 8- 9- 10- 11- 12- 13- 14- 15- 16- 17- 18- 19- 20- 21- 22- 23- 24- 25- 26- 27- 28- 29- 30- 1- 2- 3- 4Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun- Jul- Jul- Jul- Jul07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07

There is very less technical knowledge about the machine and stitches to the
workers.

There is not proper IE support to the production managers and the executives in the
unit.

Suggestions:

Absenteeism is major problem. Existing incentive scheme of Rs.600 for 100%


attendance is not enough to handle this problem So, the incentive scheme should
be in such a way that it should attract majority and should be achievable for them.

Recommended Incentive Scheme


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Leave per Month


No Leave
1 day
2 days
3 days
More than 3 days

Incentive
Rs. 600 + Medical Facility
Rs. 400 + Medical Facility
Rs. 250 + Medical Facility
Medical facility
No Medical Facility

There should be one hour training programme for the new operators after every 15
days.

There should be monthly general meeting between high authority and the operators
so that there problems can be seen from the grass root level.

New operator should spend every day first five minutes on the practice stitches and
these should be submitted as an assignment of the training programme.

There should be easy access to the IE tools and services for the production
managers and supervisors, so that their time can be effectively and efficiently
utilised.

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22. CONCLUSION

The industrial internship in the Ambattur Clothing Limited has exposed us to the different
and vivid facets of the garment field. Apart from the theoretical and practical knowledge
the internship has given us the opportunity to use our knowledge and skill in solving the
problems on the production work floor. The practical experience imparted by the
internship has helped us to visualize and analyse the ground level details in order to
understand the complexity of any problem. At the one end industrial experience had
conveyed the importance of professional and corporate approach towards the work and life
mean while at the other it helped us to understand the importance of emotional quotient in
increasing the productivity. It helped us to realize the importance and need of team work
in order to achieve success.The two months stay at Chennai has also given us the
opportunity to interact with the people of different culture, language and background.
Altogether it was a wonderful experience and memory to be treasured life long.

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