Quality System

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APPAREL QUALITY MANAGEMENT
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QUALITY SYSTEMS IN ARVIND, BANGALORE
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SUBMITTED TO:
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MS. PRIYADARSHINI
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SUBMITTED BY:
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K.DIVYA PRAKAASH(08)
MD. SHAD ANWAR(09)
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DEPARTMENT OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, SEMESTER V
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
We would like to thank Ms. Priyadarshini, our subject faculty of Apparel Quality
Management, who guided us and cleared all our doubts in creating the documents. We
would also like to thank Mr. Shakeel Iqbal, Coordinator, Department of Fashion
Technology for lending out their help and support.
NATINAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, HYDERABAD
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CONTENTS
S.NO.
TITLE
INTRODUCTION
COMPANY PROFILE
FABRIC QUALITY
MANAGEMENT
LABORATORY
CUT ROOM QUALITY

CHECK
QUALITY IN SEWING
FLOOR
CONTROLLING QUALITY
IN LAUNDRY
MAINTAINING QUALITY
DURING FINISHING OF
GARMENTS
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INTRODUCTION
It is the objective of any manufacturer to offer his customers first quality
merchandise. The purpose of the quality control program is to assist manufacturers in
meeting their high standards. In addition quality control program can help them in their
operations quality control program, spot and reject Defective items and more
importantly pinpoint production operations that need special attention thereby reducing
the future production failures. This type of
quality control provides a basis for
management decisions in the plant.

Quality is:
Fit for use

Conformance to requirements
When customer is satisfied and encouraged to buy When it is defect free
When it has a long life
When it has good wear ability and wash ability
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2.COMPANY PROFILE
2.1.Inception
The year 1930 was when the world suffered the great depression. At about this time,
Mahatma Gandhi championed the Swadeshi Movement and at his call, people from all
across India began boycotting fine and superfine fabrics, which had so far been
imported from England. In the midst of this depression one family saw opportunity. The
Lalbhais reasoned that the demand for fine and superfine fabrics still existed. And any
Indian company that met this demand would surely prosper. The three brothers,
Kasturbhai, Narottambhai and Chimanbhai, decided to set up a mill to produce
superfine fabric. Next they looked around for state-of-the-art machinery that could
produce such high quality fabric. The best technology of that time was acquired at a
most attractive price. And a company called Arvind Limited was born. Arvind Limited
started with a share capital of Rs 2,525,000 ($55,000) in the year 1931. With the aim of
manufacturing the high-end superfine fabrics Arvind invested in very sophisticated
technology. With 52,560 ring spindles, 2552 doubling spindles and 1122 looms it was
one of the few companies in those days to start along with spinning and weaving
facilities in addition to full-fledged facilities for dyeing, bleaching, finishing and
mercerizing. Steadily producing high quality fabrics, year after year, Arvind took its place
amongst the foremost textile units in the country.
2.2.Reno-vision
In the mid 1980s the textile industry faced another major crisis. With the power loom
churning out vast quantities of inexpensive fabric, many large composite mills lost their
markets, and were on the verge of closure. Yet that period saw Arvind at its highest level
of profitability. There could be no better time, concluded the Management, for a rethink
on strategy. The Arvind management coined a new word for it new strategy Reno
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vision. It simply meant a new way of looking at issues, of seeing more than the obvious
and that became the corporate philosophy.
The national focus paved way for international focus and Arvinds markets shifted from
domestic to global, a market that expected and accepted only quality goods. An in-depth
analysis of the world textile market proved an eye opener. People the world over were
shifting from synthetic to natural fabrics. Cottons were the largest growing segments.
But where conventional wisdom pointed to popular priced segments, Reno vision
pointed to high quality premium niches. Thus in 1987-88 Arvind entered the export
market for two sections -Denim for leisure & fashion wear and high quality fabric for
cotton shirting and trousers. By 1991 Arvind reached 1600 million meters of Denim per
year and it was the third largest producer of Denim in the world.
2.3.Expansion
In 1997 Arvind set up a state-of-the-art shirting, bottom weights and knits facility, the
largest of its kind in India, at Santej. With Arvinds concern for environment a most
modern effluent treatment facility with zero effluent discharge capability was also
established.
Arvind has carved out an aggressive strategy to verticalize its current operations by
setting up worldscale garmenting facilities and offering a one-stop shop service, by
offering garment packages to its international and domestic customers. With our
growing global footprints, Arvind has carved a niche with brand names like Arrow, Flying
Machine, USPA, New Port, Mega Mart and The Arvind Store.
Today, Arvind has diversified into other major segments like Fabrics, Garments,
Advanced Materials, Chemicals & Dyes, Retail, Engineering, Real Estate, Sustainable
Agriculture and Telecom.
2.4.VALUE AND VISION

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The underlying theme running across the broad spectrum of all business activities at
Arvind is that of enhancing lifestyles of people, across all diversities and demographics.
To serve that end, the corporate vision for Arvind states:
We will enable people to experience a better quality of life by providing enriching and
inspiring lifestyle solutions.
OUR PHILOSOPHY
2.4.1.WE BELIEVE
In people and their unlimited potential; in content and in focus on problem solving; in
teams for effective performance, in the power of the intellect.
2.4.2.WE ENDEAVOUR
To select, train and coach people to obtain higher responsibilities; to nurture talent, and
to build leaders for the corporations of tomorrow; to reward, celebrate and activate all
intellectual business contributions.
2.4.3.WE DREAM
Of excellence in all endeavors; of mutual benefit and prosperity; of making the world a
better place to live in.
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3.FABRIC QUALITY MANAGEMENT

3.1.Objective:
To identify and mark fabric faults on the fabric
Decision to cut the fabric lot or not
Increased productivity of the cutting department
Always Quality first products require quality piece goods. Even the most outstanding
manufacturing methods can not compensate for defective materials. Therefore it is
necessary to create an aggressive piece goods quality control programme and eliminate
many quality problems before starting the manufacturing process
3.2.Guidelines for Inspection:
As soon as the fabric reaches the store, fabric should be inspected.
Fabric should be stored in a clean moisture free environment
A swatch of dimension as specified by the laboratory has to be submitted to the

laboratory as soon as the fabric arrives so that fabric is checked for performance
standards as per the requirements
3.3.The Four Point System:

In textile and garment trade extensively accepted system of inspection is
THE FOUR POINT SYSTEM. This system is very easy to understand and implement.
Standards obtained / achieved in this system have proved as acceptable in garment
manufacturing..Hence this system is used for fabric checking
3.4.Fabric to be checked:
Usually we have to check 10% of the total fabric received.
In case this inspection passes we can accept the whole lot of fabric
Whenever the first 10 % of the fabric gets failed, we have to inspect entire
quantity
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and then take a final decision on accepting or rejecting a fabric.
However, wherever the requirement of fabric for an order quantity is less than
1000 meters, in such cases entire quantity of fabric should be used.
3.5.Roll Selection:
While selecting the rolls, please see that you cover all the colours in 10 % of the rolls
or select at least one roll in each of the colours even when the quantity selected
becomes over and above 10%
3.6.Classification of defects:
Length of Defect (To be measured either on length or width position ) : Penalty
Points
Fig.3.1. Four point inspection system
3.7.Woven Fabric Defects:

3.7.1.Burl Mark: When a slub or extra piece of yarn is woven in to the fabric, it is called
Burl Mark . This defect is usually rectified by a Burling Tool. However, this will leave an
open space in the fabric
----- MAJOR DEFECT
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3.7.2.Drawback: Caused by excessive loom tension gradually applied
by
some
abnormal restrictions. When the restriction is removed, the excess slack is oven into
the fabric. Usually ends are broken
----- MAJOR DEFECT
3.7.3.Dropped Pick: Caused by filling insertion mechanism on a shuttle less loom not
holding the filling yarn to be woven without tension. The filling yarn appears as " kinky "
there will also be areas of end out.
------ MAJOR DEFECT
3.7.4.End out: Caused by yarn breaking and loom continuing to run.The defect will
appear as a thin line.
------ MAJOR DEFECT
3.7.5.Fly: Usually caused by the spinning process. Small fibres are spun in to yarn of
another stock. Often caused by lack of precautions to prevent contaminations
------ MINOR DEFECT( But sever size and colour contamination could make this Major )
3.7.6.Harness Break down: Caused by harness straps breaking on a conventional
loom. There will be a definite pattern change in the weave.
----- MAJOR DEFECT
3.7.7.Jerk in: Caused by an extra piece of filling yarn being jerked part
way in to the
fabric by shuttle. usually the defect will appear at the selvage

----- MAJOR DEFECT or MINOR DEFECT ( depending on how close the patterns are
cut to edge the selvage )
3.7.8.Knots: Caused by tying spools of yarn together
------ usually MINOR DEFECT
3.8.9.Mixed End: Yarn of different fabric blend used on the warp frame resulting in
streaks in fabric.
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------ MAJOR DEFECT

3.8.10.Mixed Filling: Caused by the use of light weight yarn or different fibre blend
used in filling. Will appear as a distinct shade change.
----- MAJOR DEFECT
3.8.11.Slubs: Caused by an extra piece of yarn woven in to fabric It can also be
caused by thick places in the yarn. Often it is caused by fly waste being spun in yarn in
the spinning process.
----- MAJOR DEFECT or MINOR DEFECT
3.8.12. Smash: Caused by a number of ruptured warp ends that have been repaired
----- MAJOR DEFECT
3.8.13. Soiled Filling or End: Dirty oily looking spots on the warp or filling yarns or on
package of dyed yarns
---- MAJOR DEFECTS
3.8.14.Stop Mark: When the loom is stopped, the yarn elongates under tension.
Again when loom starts the slack is woven into fabric.
----- MAJOR DEFECT or MINOR DEFECT
3.8.15. Thin place: Often caused by the filling yarn breaking and the loom continuing to
run until the operator notices the problem.
----- MAJOR DEFECT
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4.LABORATORY
No sooner than the fabric is received at ware house, one meter length from every fabric
roll received will be sent to Laboratory for finding Dimensional Changes due to Style
wash & and shades evolved during Style Wash.
Based on the garment wash as required by the buyer ( Approved Standard ), fabric shall
be washed in the laboratory and necessary Taper Report is developed against the
shades evolved and shrinkage obtained after wash Further, Fabric is subjected to a
TEST called Fabric Package Test.
Under this test, before proceeding, Fabric Content and Weight are verified and then
following tests are conducted
4.1.FABRIC PACKAGE TEST
Skew
Tensile Strength
Tearing Strength
Colour Fastness to Perspiration
Colour Fastness to Crocking
Colour Fastness to Water
Fabric Weight
pH ( Power of Hydrogen ) using pH meter
Stretch & Recovery ( Only for Stretch Fabric )
Construction ( Visual)
Yarn Size
Before proceeding with the bulk, it is necessary that 2 nos. of garments produced in the
size set stage are subjected for Garment Package Test after Style Wash as approved
by the buyer under the following lines
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4.2.GARMENT PACKAGE TEST
Dimensional Stability to Home Laundering.
Appearance after Laundering
Tensile Strength
Attachment Strength
Seam Properties
Tearing Strength
CF to Accelerated Laundering
CF to crocking
Fabric Weight
Colour Fastness to Perspiration
Colour fastness to Water
Fibre Identification
pH Extract
Stretch & Recovery ( Only for Stretch Fabric )
The reports on these two above mentioned tests shall be forwarded to Quality,
Marketing & PPC departments for further actions.
QA Department has to thoroughly analyse these reports with respect to every parameter
checked.
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5.CUT ROOM QUALITY CHECK

Good Sewing begins with good cutting.
excessive
repairs
and
slowed
Bad cutting will result in sewing defects,
production.
The
Quality
Control
Inspector's
responsibilities include assisting the Cut Room Manager for taking correct steps and
corrective measures if required.
PO File with Tech Pack, before and after wash specs, Fabric shade band, shrinkage
details, Marker / Pattern details, Trim Cards
QA Specifications, Approved sample,
Visual Quality standards, PP meeting notes etc; are to be there in the section. Display
the items those are specified, on the display board. Before the spreading of the fabric, it
should be relaxed ( Especially Stretch fabric ) and report to be maintained.
In process sampling procedure used in the cutting room is same as used in sewing line.
Before starting spreading and cutting it is very much essential that the pattern recieved
should be inspected & checked for before wash measurements and notches for the
placement .
Every spreading and cutting should be audited in random. However, it is necessary to
have Pilot Cutting of about 50 garments before starting the bulk cutting. Further if there
are any interlinings are to be fused to the parts, in such of the cases fusing shrinkage
also should be checked both before as well as after wash
5.1.SPREADING:
5.1.1.Table Mark:
The Inspector should check for these marks as the table is marked off. Allow 1/4"
tolerance for marking according to the marker splices marked by the tracer.
5.1.2.Marker Placement :
Marker should be placed on the spread with front edge on the marker edge:( 1/8"
variance and 1/2" allowance on the end placement.)
5.1.3. Edging:
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After completion of the spread, check to see that straight edge from the marker line is
within 1/4" variance ( Wide or Narrow )
5.1.4.Ends:
After completion of the spread check , see that plies do not extend closer than 1/2" nor
more than 1" away from the marked end of the spread.
5.1.5.Splices:
After completion of the spread, check splice hem laps to see that
both
plies extend
past the marked splice by no less than 1/2" and no more than 11/2".
5.1.6.Narrow Goods:
After completion of the spread, check the far edge of the spread to see that all plies
extend beyond the marker line.
5.1.7.Leaning:
After completion of spread, check for leaning by standing a rule on the straight edge of
the spread. Check at least at three different places Tolerance is 1/4"
5.1.8.Tension:
Tension must be checked during spreading. This is very important especially on knit
fabrics. Tension can be recognised by the biased appearance of goods with a
reasonable amount of tolerance.
5.1.9.Count:
Count must be checked after completion of spreading and before cutting. count must
be made of all plies at both ends.
5.1.10.Remnants:
Check to see that remnants are no longer than the shortest splice.
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5.2.CUTTING:
5.2.1.Miscut:
Miscut measures the ability of the cutter to split the line. Tolerance 1/8"
5.2.2.Matching Plies:
Check top ply with the bottom ply. Tolerance 1/8"
5.2.3.Rugged Cutting:
This is a judgement defect. It is more important on critical parts. If the part has to be
re-cut, it is a defect.
5.2.4.Notches:
Check the notch location by placing the pattern over the top ply. Tolerance 1/8"
5.2.5.Check Pattern:
Compare the pattern to marker paper to ensure that the marker is correct
5.3.FUSING:
Before starting the fusing, it is necessary that Parameters under which parts are to be
fused should be decided by which the fusing standards are obtained. The Standard
should usually be given by the interlining supplier or in few cases buyer will suggest the
standard as well as the type of interlining to be used. Suggested standard should be
displayed near the fusing machine with all the details.
5.3.1.SET THE MACHINE:
The fusing machine has to be set for correct machine temperature and fuse line
temperature as required to obtain the required standard It is needless to say that the
fusing machine has to be maintained in perfect condition by regular check up and
overhauling.
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5.3.2.INTERLINING COMPATIBILITY:
Before starting the bulk fusing, it is necessary that the compatibility of the interlining with
the body fabric of the garment to be checked for fusing / bond strength before and after
wash. Also we have to verify visually for colour change and bubbling before as well as
after wash.
5.3.3.FUSING SHRINKAGE:
It is also essential that before staring the bulk, shrinkage of the fused part is found out
both before and after wash and if there is any considerable changes are there, same
has to be brought to the notice of QAM / Pattern section and other competent
authorities.
5.3.4.REGULAR QUALITY CHECK:
After all the above activities, we can take up the bulk fusing of the parts to be fused and
on regular intervals ( minimum twice in a day i.e.; once during morning sessions and
second time during afternoon session ) following parameters of the fused parts are to be
checked
a) Machine Temperature during fusing
b) Fuse line Temperature using strips and
c) Bond Strength The readings thus obtained should be recorded as and when
read.
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6.QUALITY IN SEWING FLOOR
Responsibility of Quality Assurance Department in SEWING FLOOR can be divided in

to three stages
They are;
Pre Production Stage
In Line &
End Line
6.1.Pre Production
It is nothing but preparing yourself for the new style to be sewn in the line / in the sewing
floor.
6.1.1.Know the Style:
It is the responsibility of the roving QA that he studies the style completely especially
with reference to fabric, trims, construction / required needle work.
To this end, the line QA / roving QA, Production Supervisor of the line, Line Technician,
Floor QA in charge, IE and Line Mechanic should have a detailed discussion on the
style requirement which is being loaded in the sewing line.
6.1.2.Set the line for Production:
After the discussion / pre production meeting with the concerned people of the line, it is
the turn of the IE and Line Technician along with the Supervisor to work out machine
lay out and line plan so that manufacturing of the garments are made easy to yield
maximum production with QUALITY.
At this stage it is the responsibility of the line Mechanic to check each machine in the
line and if require, overhaul the machines to perform well to the need of the fabric as
well as the style. Standard Stitch Per Inch to be set for each machine as required by the
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style and if there are any attachments to be used for parts like Waist Band, Belt Loops,
Pockets etc; same are to be attached to the respective machines and test parts are to
be sewn to ascertain the Quality Of the Parts those are being sewn in the line so that
there will not be any quality problem during Bulk Production.
6.1.3.Display :
Relevant details such as
Line Plan / Machine Layout
Tec pack / Construction details of the style
Measurement Chart
Trim Card
Approved Standard duly signed by QAM etc; are to be displayed at the end table
of the sewing line besides
weekly and monthly Quality performance of the
particular sewing line. It is also necessary that the names of the operators with
their grades shall be displayed at the beginning of every batch.
.
6.2.In Line Sewing
Before starting the actual sewing, each operator has to check the SPI of his / her
machine and in case the SPI is not as per standard, machine has to be set for required
SPI and locked for that SPI.
Line QA shall verify the SPI of every machine in the line on daily basis and such verified
sample mock for SPI to be displayed on the machine every day.
At the time of starting of a new style, it is necessary that QA discusses with IE and batch
technician about the machine layout, line plan and sequence of operations to make sure
that there will not be any problem with respect to right quality and smooth flow of
operations.
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Once the above is through, the new style can be loaded in the line for production.
At the beginning, the QA has to move along with the sewing operation right from the first
operation till the last operation as per the sequence of operations only.
It is advised, every operator before the start of sewing of the particular part/operation,
shall stitch a mock in the same fabric and this mock shall be reviewed by QA as well as
the line supervisor. After reviewing, the operator should be advised on the correctness
of the operation and also the requirement of the buyer so that what is acceptable and
what is not is understood by the operator. It is also advised that for the reference of the
operator, the right mock is displayed on the same machine in which the mock is
stitched.
Thus, the Roving QA has to move machine by machine as the stitching operation
continues till the complete finished FIRST GARMENT of the style comes out of the line.
QA and Supervisor shall review this FIRST GARMENT
that has come out for
CONSTRUCTION and MEASUREMENT. If satisfied, shall display in the batch with

their comments. Also, they can explain the operators once again about the style and the
requirement of the BUYER. / CUSTOMER.
After the review of the FIRST GARMENT, Roving QA has to get down to his regular
activity of ferrying in between the machines in the sewing line to inspect the sewn parts .
During inspection of parts, in case he finds defective sewing, immediately such
operation has to be stopped and the Line Supervisor has to be called and informed
about the defective sewing and in turn the Supervisor should act immediately to rectify
the defective sewing. It is better incase the Roving QA monitors and inspects the parts
after rectification continuously for about half an hour or till he ( QA ) is satisfied. After
satisfaction, he can move to other operations.(To monitor the sewing line QUALITY
ACTIVITY, there is a system called TRAFFIC LIGHT SYSTEM ).
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The Roving QA during ferrying in between the machines, should inspect the operations
of a minimum of 9 machines in an hour and he can increase his inspection to the extent
of 12 machines maximum in an hour only. Then only he can give justice to his work.
Further he should also verify the key measurements of at least 3 garment every hour.
However, his maximum concentration has to be on the sewing of CRITICAL

OPERATIONS. Roving QA should also take time to review the parts checked and
passed by in line checkers stationed at CRITICAL OPERATIONS.
In case of any
discrepancy in the passed parts, QA shall alert the checker immediately and take
corrective measures.
6.3.End Line
Stitched garments from the sewing line are received at END TABLE and these
garments are subjected for 100% inspection by Quality Inspector at END Table.
For VISUAL, CONSTRUCTION and KEY MEASUREMENTS.
Passed garments at this stage are AUDITED at 2.5 AQL and on passing, moved to
WASHING SECTION.
Quality Failed Garments shall be returned to sewing section for rectification and return.
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7.CONTROLLING QUALITY IN LAUNDRY

From Sewing Section, garments are sent to Laundry for further processing.
In
Denims /Jeans,
Wash Process is an integral part of Garments.
In laundry, wash process is divided in to two parts. They are Dry Process and Wet
Process.
Garments, before taking in to washing section are to be checked for uncut threads and
other garment defects.
Only pass garments after the said visual check are to be
accepted by the Washing Department.
Before taking up Wet Process, usually Dry
Process is carried out

7.1.DRY PROCESS:
In Dry Process, different types of processes through which the garments could be
passed are
Laser Printing
Resin Treatment
3D
Whiskering ( Moulding )
Hand Sanding
Tacking / Tying
PP Spray
Damages / Destruction
7.1.1.Laser Printing
Laser Printing is an electrostatic digital printing process that rapidly produces high
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quality
text and graphics by passing laser beam over a charged drum to define a differently
charged image
The drum then selectively collects charged toner and transfers the image on to the fabric
( dress / pant ) which then heated to permanently fix the image on the surface needed
In this process Quality Check Points mainly to be looked in to are
1)
Size of the Print
2)
Intensity of the Print
3)
Print Placement
4)
Back ground shade / intensity
7.1.2.Resin Treatment
Resin Treatment gives value addition to garments. We have been talking about Resin
and its use in Denim Garments Industry to create unique and vintage looks.This adds
value to Denim Garments and improves its salebility in the market.
Earlier Resins were used to give non press iron free trousers. Now we are using in
Denims to make wrinkles and creases to look natural vintage which stays after multiple
home laundries.
Method of applying Resin on Denim Garments
1) Dip Method:
Garments are dipped in the Resin solution and then cured in a perticular temperatue and
also with in the given timing.
2) Spray Method:
In spray method Resin is applied on to the garment by spraying during tumbling in an
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enclosed rotational device or in spray booth where garments are hung to inflated
balloons.
A measured quantity of Resin solution is sprayed on to it. A microprocessor is used
to meter the exact amount of chemicals and control the rotation time along with desired
wet pick up spray rate and process time.
During the process points of check are
1)
Concentration of Resin Solution

( Both solute and solvent should be taken exactly as per the given
standard)
( Mixing to be made by a stirring machine )
2)
Quantity that is to be sprayed on a garment
3)
Size of Inflated Balloon on which the garments are hung
4)
Garment Rotation Time
5)
Curing Time
7.1.3.3D Effect. (Optional)

This process can be taken under Resin Treatment for consideration. Under this process
permanent wrinkles are made on the garments after all types of wet process wash in dry
position.
We use Resin by spraying at garments on perticular / specific area by nozzle. Resin is being
used for achieving 3D (3 dimensional), rigid looks etc;. After application of resin solution in right
proportion, manual design is made as needed on thigh, hip or knee to get 3D effect.
After making the required design, it should be manually dried with hot press or hair dryer
and then to be cured under right temperature and tme as mentioned in the Resin Product
Manual.
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Points of check for 3D effect are

1)
Position and placement
2)
Intensity / Rigidness of effect
7.1.4.Whiskering:
On Denims, whiskers / moulds / moustaches / chevrons are nothing but the worn out lines /
impressions generated by natural wearing on hips and thigh area.
There are many designs & patterns available for this purpose.The activity is being carried out
manually with the help of sharp edge emery paper rolled and pasted on fine wooden stick.
Before starting execution, placements of patterns must be marked on garments. This will help
operators to execute the right pattern on the right sized garments to match the aesthetics of
garments. All the above mentioned operation has to be carried out width wise ( horizontal
direction ).
Hence its appearence will be intense than the hand sanding with less strokes because hand
sanding is carried out length wise ( vertical direction )
Quality Check Points during this process are
1)
Size wise verification of pattern / mould with respect to garment size
2)
Position and placement
3)
Intensity of the whiskering carried out
7.1.5.Hand Scraping / Sanding:

Hand Sanding is generally being done in rigid form of garments to get distress look. Locations
of scrapping can be front, thigh and back seat or it can be overall / global application as per
standard.
Emery paper is being used to scrape the garments on particular placement and design.
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( Emery paper is identified by different numbers which generally starts from 40 till 600 or above.
Higher the number finer the emery and lower the number, emery is coarser )
In garment industry, from 220,320 and 400 number papers are most popular & widely used.
The main purpose of this process is to make the garment to give used / worn out look.
Process check points of Hand Sanding are
1)
Selection of right numbered paper depending on the

fabric strength and required intensity
2)
Intensity
3)
Placement
7.1.6.Tying:
It is a process which is being done by swift tag machines with the help plastic or nylon
tag pins on rigid form of garment to get very heavy contrast ( rigid & washed ) on waist
band , bottom hem back pocket and front pocket corners etc;. After washing completely
nylon tag must
be removed before finishing.
Check points during the process are
1)
Tagging placement.
2)
Length of tag pin &
3)
Width of folding where tagged
7.1.7.PP Spray:
PP Spray is being done on denim garments to acieve local abraded area to appear
26 | P a g e
whiter than background indigo colour shade.

Potassium Permanganate Solution can be applied on to garment by spray gun or towel
dipped in to PP Solution and rubbed on desired area followed by neutralisation in wet
process. This process can be done in rigid form after hand scraping or in the middle of
wash after enzyme or bleach cycle to give more natural and white effect.
In the same way bleach solution also can be sprayed or rubbed on to the garment on
desired area. But this process is very complicated and hence need highly skilled
operators to execute it followed by immediate neutralisation.
Check points which need to be followed are
1)
Spray Gun Pressure
2)
Width / Area of spray
3)
Flow & way of spraying
7.1.8.Damages / Destruction:
This is one of the most popular distressing effects currently used. Destruction is an art
which makes denim look unique and used. To make destruction, pen type of stone tools
are used in mid wash process to apply on desired area. It can also be achieved by
cutting the warp
yarns by a knife and keep the weft yarn as it is to show white
thread. Holes also can be made by cutting weft and warp yarns.
These are all manual process and hence every garment will look unique and different
than one another.
Point of check are
1)
Size of the damage
27 | P a g e
2)
Position and place of destruction
After completion of Dry Process, garments are checked for visual defects which might
have occurred during Dry Process and then cleaned for dust particles. Cleaned
garments then are passed on to Wet Process area for Washing
7.2.WET PROCESS:
7.2.1.Objectives:
*
To develop softness on garments:

Size materials applied to the fabric during manufacturing are removed which
enhances
soft hand feel. Additional softness may be obtained by using softner.
*
To introduce fading effect:

Dyes / pigments are present in the fabric used during coloring are washed out
completely
or partially which results in fading or worn out effects in the garment.
*
To create new fashion:

Washing process of garments bring in different outlook ( faded,color tinted etc; ).
Thus
creating new fashion for new generation especially for teenagers.
*
To satisfy the customers:

As the contraction or extraction occur due to washing, the wearer can use the
garments
after satisfied purchases.
Advantages of garment washing:
28 | P a g e
Removal of starch or size materials make the fabric of soft hand feel
Softness can be increased by adding softner just at the last stage of washing
Dirts, spots, impurities, gum etc; if accumulated in the garments during

manufacturing could be removed
During washing, shrinkage may take place. Hence after washing no possibility of
further shrinkage.
Washed garments could be worn directly after purchase.
Faded or worn out effect could be introduced to the garment which creates new
fashion
*
Similar outlook can be obtained by different wash techniques.
Unavoidable changes which will happen during washing:

Size change: size change takes place due to shrinkage properties of fabric.
The amount of shrinkage properties of fabric determine the size change of
garment.
Hence this should
be taken care of during style pattern making
Size materials ( Pigment dyes ) partly removed: unfixed dyes may remain on
the
surface of the garments and it is necessary to remove completely after washing.
Important steps to be taken in the wet process of denim wash:
1)
Pre-treatment ( De sizing, Rinsing, Scouring etc: )
2)
Bleaching
3)
Enzyme wash
4)
Clean up to adjust the desired effect
5)
Tinting / Dying
6)
Stone wash
7)
Sand blasting ( This Process is discarded all over the world ) &
29 | P a g e
8)
Softening
7.3.Bleach Wash:
In this process, a strong oxidative bleaching agent like sodium hypochlorite is added
during washing with or without stone. Discoloration produced is usually more apparent
depending on strength of the bleach quality, temperature and time. It is preferable to
have strong bleach and less temperature and time Care should be taken for the
bleached goods so that they are adequately treated with anti-chloride or after washed
for with peroxide to minimise yellowing. Garments should be carefully stored before
processing for color uniformity.
Limitations of Bleach Wash:
1)
Process is difficult to control ie; difficult to reach the same level of bleaching in
repreated runs.
2)
When desired level of bleaching reached, the time span available to stop the
bleaching is very narrow. Hence due to harshness of chemical it may cause
damage to cellulose resulting in
severe strength losses and or breaks or pin
holes at the seams , pockets etc;.

3)
Harmful to human health and causes corrosion to stainless steel
4)
Requires anti chlorite treatment.
5)
Problem of yellowing is very frequent due to residual chlorine.
6)
Chlorinated organic substances occur as abundant products in bleaching and

pass in to effluent where they cause severe environmental pollution.
30 | P a g e
7.3.1.ENZYME WASH
This is eco friendly wash. It involves the application of organic enzymes that eat away at
the fabric i.e.; the cellulose. When the desired colour is achieved, the enzyme can be
stopped by alkalinity of the bath or its temperature. Post treatment includes final rinsing
and softening cycle.
Use of cellulose makes that the seams, hems and pockets more noticable.
7.3.2.ACID WASH
Acid wash is done by tumbling the garments with pumice stones pre soaked in a
solution of sodium hypochlorite or potassium permanganate for localised bleaching
resulting in a non uniform sharp blue white contrast.
In this wash, the color contrast of the denim fabric can be achieved by optical
brightening.
In this wash, advantage is only water saving because addition of water is not required
It consists of soaking pumice stones with chlorine and using the abrasive power of
pumice stones to bleach jeans in to sharp contrasts.
7.3.2.1.Limitations of Acid Wash
1. Acid washed indigo dyed denim has a tendency to become yellowish after wet
processing.
2. The major cause is residual manganese due to incomplete neutralisation in
washing or rinsing
7.3.2.2.Remedy
*
Manganese can be effectively removed during laundering with addition of

31 | P a g e
ethylene di-amine tetra acetic acid as chelating agent.

*
Acid washed jeans avoides some of the problems of stone wash but comes with
added danger, expenses and polution.
7.3.3.STONE WASH
In this process of washing freshly dyed jeans are loaded in to large washing machines
and tumbled with pumice stones or volcanic rock to achieve a soft handfeel and
desirable look, Variations in compositions, hardness, size, shape and porosity make
these stones multifunctional. This process is quite expensive and hence requires heavy
capital investment. Pumice tone gives the additional effect of a faded or worn out look
since it abrades the surface of jeans like sand paper removing some dye particles from
the surface of the yarn
7.3.3.1.Pumice Stone
These are rich viscous, high temperature melt product of explosive eruption during
ascent and expulsion of earth. These are light weight highly porous rockey substances
which will float in water. This is one of the important components in the process of
stone washing of apparels. It is used to abrade the surface of the fabric to obtain a
surface pattern effect with color contrast and softer hand feel. The degree of wash
effect depends on stone size, solvent ratio, duration of treatment , quantity of garments
loaded, GSM of garment.
7.3.3.2.Selection of stones
Stones should be selected of the proper hardness, shape and size for the perticular end
product. Large hard stones last longer and to be used for heavy weight fabrics only.
Smaller and softer to be used for light weight fabric. Stones can be re-used until they
get dis-integrated.
32 | P a g e
7.3.3.3.Problems caused by stones

*
Damages the wash machine and garments due to abration with machines.
Increases the labour to remove dust from finidhed garments.
Water polution during disposal of used solvent
Back staining and re-deposition
7.3.3.4.Back staining or Redeposition

Dye removed from denim material after treatment by this process may cause back
staining or Re-deposition . Re-coloration of blue thread and blue coloration of white
thread resulting in less contrast between blue and white threads.
7.3.3.5.Remedy for back staining
*
Adding dispersion / suspension agent to wash cycle.
Replacement of wash solvent
Using the alkaline detergent like sodium perborate with optical brightness as after
wash
7.3.3.6.Limitations of stone washing

*
Quality of abrasion process is difficult to control. Outcome of a load of jeans is
never uniform. Little percentage of garments always getting ruined by too much
abrasion.
33 | P a g e
Process is non selective
Metal buttons and rivets on the jeans in the washing machine get abraded.
Reduces quality of product and life of equipment and increases production cost.
Stones may turn in to powder during the process and the garment may become
grayish as well rough too.
Provides harder hand feel than the enzyme wash
Stones may create harm to machine parts.
7.3.4.BULK WASH:
The garments received for Bulk Wash are to be checked / audited 100% for before
wash stains, damages, fabric defects and construction faults.
If found defective,
garments are to be sent back for rectification. It is also mandatory that washing section
shall receive the garments fabric lot / shade wise only
7.3.5.PILOT WASH
After recieving the garments, before starting the wet process, a Pilot Wash of 100 Pcs
wherever the order quantity is above 3000 Pcs and 50 Pcs wherever the order quantity
is less than 3000 pcs shall be taken up. The Pilot Washed garments are to be checked /
audited for the following parameters.
1)
Shade
2)
Unwanted streak marks
3)
Measurements
34 | P a g e
4)
Damages
QAs also shall make sure that the recipe followed during PP is strictly adhered
with all other factors mentioned.
7.3.6.FINAL BULK
After approval of the Pilot Wash, the lot shall be taken up for Final Bulk Wash. At this
stage also Production Department shall maintain the records of the following factors for
every bath.
1)
No of garments in the bath
2)
Water level ( Quantity of water used for the bath )
3)
Hardness of water used for the bath
4)
pH value of the water used for the bath
5)
Temperature of the bath ( Under which the bath shall run )
6)
Timing ( Duration for which the bath should run. and adjust the time
regulator accordingly )
7)
Type of bath ( Recipe / Chemicals used )
8)
Quantity of Chemicals used for bath
( Quantity to be weighed and then mixed with the solvent / water before pouring in to the
bath drum )
QA s shall verify all the above factors before starting the bath / wash
Before drying, excess Water / liquid from the washed garments are removed from the
garments by transferring the garments to Hydro. Here also, the load limit of the Hydro
shall be strictly maintained.
35 | P a g e
7.4.QUALITY CONTROL DURING WET PROCESS ACTIVITY

Over all wash process can be divided in to 3 stages. They are
1)
Development
2)
Sampling &
3)
Bulk
7.4.1.Development
It is advisable that the QA Department involve themselves right from the Development
Stage and during the development, it is necessary that following factors are worked out
and the record is maintained in a Development Register
1)
Weight of the garment / load.
2)
Water level / quantity of water required
3)
Hardness of water used for the bath
4)
pH value of water
5)
Temperature of the bath
6)
Timing / Duration under which bath is given to develop the sample
7)
Type of bath ( Recipe / Chemicals used )
8)
Quantity / Weight of chemicals use
At this stage a minimum of 3 samples are to be developed. One to be forwarded to the

customer, another for Marketing / Development section ( to be retained and preserved
by the Merchant ) and third one to be retained at Washing Department. Two garments
retained with us are to be wrapped in a dark shaded bag so that the light /moisture will
not affect the shade of the garment.
The Developed Sample, on approval by the buyer, the factors involved to develop the
36 | P a g e
sample which are recorded in the Development Register shall be forwarded to the
Sampling Section.
7.4.2.Sampling:
7.4.2.1.PROTO
During Proto sample making the standard to be achieved is as that of the final finished
garment in Bulk Production Therefore from the Original Development Register, the
recipe shall be worked out to meet the Final Standard in Bulk.
Hence, in process
activity for Proto shall be tracked back to the Development.

THE USED RECIPE SHALL BE CODED AND WRITTEN ON A BIT OF SHELL FABRIC
ATTACHED TO THE GARMENT SAMPLE AND MAINTAINED AS RECORD.
7.4.2.2.SMS, FIT & PP SAMPLES
During making of above samples, Recipe used for Proto only to be applied. Usage of
any new recipe is strictly prohibited.
In case of any corrections / rework due to un avoidable reasons, such data also shall
coded ( in case Recipe is Revised ) and written on a bit of shell fabric attached to the
sample and named Revised Standard to that of Original Standard developed during
Proto
The duties and responsibilities of QAs here is to see that no where above
mentioned factors( under Development ) are also followed here and no where
deviated and they shall strictly follow all the Factors / Data highlighted in the
Development Stage.
QAs also should have the practice of making a daily report of the above.
37 | P a g e
38 | P a g e
7.5.DRYING:
Before taking up drying of the garments following parameters shall be strictly checked
and verified for the correctness.
1) Cleanliness: Before drying of every load it should be ensured that the drier is
very much clean
2) Mechanical Parts Check: Ensure all the parts are intact and ther shall not be
any loosely fitted parts
3) Time Gauge: Temperature gauge shall be adjusted for the required
temperature
4) Timer: Timer shall be adjusted as required and start, end time is recorded.
Garments washed and dried above are subjected for 100% visual inspection and then
an audit @ 1.5 AQL
7.6.MICRO SANDING
It is a finishing process where sand paper is used to make the surface soft without
streaks and and hair line. This can be performed before or after dying. In this process,
a series of cylindrical rolls in a horizontal arrangement either wrapped with an abrading
paper or chemically coated with an abrasive agent are used to create a soft and
smooth hand feel.
The denim is pulled over the face of the sand rollers creating a raised surface finishing
and there might be some color reduction on the surface.
This technique is followed in 3 different ways.
1)
Sand blasting.
2)
Machine Sanding
39 | P a g e
3)
Hand Sanding
We have discussed most common way in practice i.e.; Hand Sanding under dry
process.
We can also discuss Sand Blasting as under:
7.7.SAND BLASTING(This Process is discarded all over the world because it is
harmful )
This treatment removes color from certain areas either all over or as specified. This
gives the additional softness Sand is actually shot at the garment with a powerful spray
gun.
There are also automatic sand blasting guns / machines in which jeans hang and rotate
continuously.
This is purely mechanical process. No chemicals involved
It is a water free process and hence drying not required.
Variety of distress / abraded looks possible.
Any number of designs could be created by special techniques

This process is applied on denim garments to get heavy fading effects on particular
areas.
Sand blasting technique is based on blasting an abrasive material in granular powdered
or other forms through a nozzle at a very high speed and pressure on to specific areas
of the garment surface to be treated to give the desired distressed / abraded / used
look.
7.7.1.Process
40 | P a g e
1) Individual garment to be processed is taken on a table.

2) Air compressor is started and pressure is maintained between 3-4 Kgs / Sq.m
Air compressor then stores air in the macine cylinder.
3) Aluminium sand or silicon sand is then taken in the chamber of blasting
machine.
4) Sand and compressed air is then sprayed over the garment at specific points
by hand spray pipe.
5)Sand is passed in to the machine by regulating system. The machine
comprises a blasting regulator and a hand regulator to control the amount of
sand and compressed air respectively.
41 | P a g e
8.MAINTAINING QUALITY DURING FINISHING OF GARMENTS
8.1.Requirements :
PO file with Tech Pack etc; Wash Standard, Approved Shade Garments, Shrinkage
Details, Trim Cards, Fabric Test Report, Garment Test Report, QA Specifications,
Measurement spec, Approved Sample, Visual Quality Standards, PP Meeting notes,
Packing & Folding instructions are to be there in the section. Besides, it is better to have
Size Set and Pilot reports with buyers comments there on. Items which are to be
displayed on the Display Board Procedures followed in Finishing Section are to be
displayed on a Display Board as:
" PROCESS FLOW CHART "
8.2.Garment Receipt
Garment received in Finishing Section for finishing has to be recorded in an appropriate
ledger mentioning PO No., Buyer's name, size wise order quantity, size wise receipts,
wash type etc; Then compare with size wise cut qty and verify the product size mix In
case of variation in quantity, size mixture, take necessary action
8.3.Job description & Standards
Process Flow chart to be displayed. Any special instructions if available are to be
displayed Display board should have approved Garment, Trim Cards, Folding / Packing
method, Fabric defect standards ( marked with accepted / not accepted ), wash
standards, shade bands, Defect % as observed in finishing section. Ironing standard to
be available in the section.
Standard requirement to be explained to all Ironing operators like method of Ironing,
Temperature control, steam usage etc;
42 | P a g e
8.4.Quality checks on Garments

Inspection and Checking area to be provided with a minimum of 1200 Lux light level.
Whenever the lighting level decreases bulbs should be replaced. The table tops should
be white laminated. All relevant details as specified are to be kept at the checking area
8.5.Visual Check
All the garments are to be checked for Visual Defects related to stitching, Fabric, Trims
etc; Rejected garments during inspection are to be rectified It is advisable in case a
follow up card is attached detailing the nature of defect and remedial action taken is
also notified on the card.
This will ensure that the garment has been rectified and free from defect. Record to be
maintained for the % garments sent for alteration / rectification.
8.6.Measurement Check
All the Garments to undergo measurement checks at critical points at a separate
specified area Record of a minimum of 32 garments' measurements in every style are
to be recorded on daily basis or as specified by the respective buyer. In case of
measurement discrepancy, corrective action to be tracked by a follow up card and
record to be maintained for the alteration percentage. Diagram depicting
" How to
Measure " to be displayed in the Measurement Audit Area.

Garments passed through measurement check are to pass through IRONING
SECTION for GARMENT PRESSING AND FOLDING
8.7.Garment Pressing & Folding:
In Ironing Section, Pressing Standard should be displayed on each of the Pressing
Table and Ironing operator should be explained and well educated about the
requirement of the Buyer with respect to Pressing and Folding. Neatly pressed and
43 | P a g e
folded garments then shall be sent to Packing Section.

8.8.Garment Packing:
Folded Garments from Ironing section shall be passed through MD Machine to
ascertain that the garments are free from Metal Contamination. Packing section will
receive the garments passed through MD Machine.
On receipt of the garments Packing Section shall segregate the garments as under.
a) Color wise & Shade wise
b) Each Shade shall be further segregated in to different sizes.
Only then Tagging of the garments shall take place. After Tagging, garments shall be
stored /kept separately as per Color, Shade and Size.
Only then, Carton Packing shall be taken up as required by the buyer.
44 | P a g e

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CUT ROOM QUALITY

NATINAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, HYDERABAD

quality control provides a basis for

management decisions in the plant.

Fit for use

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2.4.VALUE AND VISION

NATINAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, HYDERABAD

3.FABRIC QUALITY MANAGEMENT

To identify and mark fabric faults on the fabric

Decision to cut the fabric lot or not

Increased productivity of the cutting department

As soon as the fabric reaches the store, fabric should be inspected.

Fabric should be stored in a clean moisture free environment

A swatch of dimension as specified by the laboratory has to be submitted to the

3.3.The Four Point System:

Usually we have to check 10% of the total fabric received.

NATINAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, HYDERABAD

and then take a final decision on accepting or rejecting a fabric.

Fig.3.1. Four point inspection system

3.7.Woven Fabric Defects:

NATINAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, HYDERABAD

3.7.2.Drawback: Caused by excessive loom tension gradually applied

fabric by shuttle. usually the defect will appear at the selvage

------ MAJOR DEFECT

NATINAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, HYDERABAD

Colour Fastness to Perspiration

Colour Fastness to Crocking

Colour Fastness to Water

pH ( Power of Hydrogen ) using pH meter

Stretch & Recovery ( Only for Stretch Fabric )

4.2.GARMENT PACKAGE TEST

Dimensional Stability to Home Laundering.

Appearance after Laundering

Colour Fastness to Perspiration

Colour fastness to Water

Stretch & Recovery ( Only for Stretch Fabric )

NATINAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, HYDERABAD

5.CUT ROOM QUALITY CHECK

Bad cutting will result in sewing defects,

QA Specifications, Approved sample,

NATINAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, HYDERABAD

NATINAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, HYDERABAD

6.QUALITY IN SEWING FLOOR

Responsibility of Quality Assurance Department in SEWING FLOOR can be divided in

Pre Production Stage

Line Plan / Machine Layout

Tec pack / Construction details of the style

weekly and monthly Quality performance of the

NATINAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, HYDERABAD

that has come out for

CONSTRUCTION and MEASUREMENT. If satisfied, shall display in the batch with

NATINAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, HYDERABAD

However, his maximum concentration has to be on the sewing of CRITICAL

NATINAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, HYDERABAD

7.CONTROLLING QUALITY IN LAUNDRY

Only pass garments after the said visual check are to be

accepted by the Washing Department.

Before taking up Wet Process, usually Dry

Process is carried out

NATINAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, HYDERABAD

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