GQ UK - October 2016

THIS IS
HISTORY
OCTOBER 2016
The greatest
rock gig
of all time
By Liam Gallagher
Noel Gallagher
Alan McGee and
Caitlin Moran
Solo Artist Of The Year

Story by Dorian Lynskey Photographed by Gavin Bond
The man who

invented
supermodels
The strange and

seedy world of
John Casablancas
Story by Robert Chalmers
Bella Hadid, Anthony Joshua, Amy Schumer

John Boyega, Mark Ronson, Ricky Gervais
Chris Pine
Discover more.
ARMANI.COM
AQUARACER CALIBRE 5
Kai Lenny is one of the top surfers to challenge
Peahi (JAWS) in the WSL Big Wave Event. Kai
means ocean in Hawaiian, the natural element where
#DontCrackUnderPressure is nothing but literal: like
TAGHeuer, it is his whole mindset.
www.tagheuer.com
39
141
Tony Parsons
Editors Letter
The loss of a father cuts unspeakably

deep, but the measure of a man is
how he deals with that pain.
53
Foreword
As the curtain falls on the Obama administration,
GQ salutes this embattled but dignied statesman.
147
BY CHARLIE BURTON
59
Dua Lipa blossoms; read yourself
Travel
147
Details
better; the GQ and Warner party; boss

fantasy football; the best family lms.
119
Taste
Palomars octopus
recipe; tee time at
Swingers; the
best eateries in
Bury St Edmunds.
139
Our Stuff
59
119
The worldly goods

of George Chesterton,
GQs Chief Sub-Editor.
101
Bachelor Pad
Bring Soho House home with a new line of
exclusive interiors from the members club.
103
My Style
Model and Spector musician

Thomas Shickle schools GQ
in the art of millennial cool.
109
Cars
The revolution will be motorised: Audis
Q2 hits Cuba; VWs new Tiguan roars.
109
GQs guide to dining and dancing in

Stockholm, the crown jewel of the
Baltic; London opens its doors to
CitizenMs new city base.
162
Michael Wolff
Behind the smoke and
mirrors of Donald Trumps
presidential campaign,
GQ shines a light on the
inuence and power of
his children and their
reality-TV lives.
204
GQ Preview
103
Products and events.
187
187
The Style Manual

Join the jet set with a black watch;
Smythson stationery inspires Jim
Chapman; Astrid Andersens street
life; hit the right top notes with
the best scents of the season.
162
OCTOBER 2016 GQ.CO.UK 17
All the fashion news you want.
Read WIRED UK on Apple News
Requires iOS 9. 2016 Apple Inc. All rights reserved.
All in one place.
Read British GQ on Apple News
Suit, 550. Shirt, 109.

Bow tie, 59. Cufflinks, 59.
All by Boss. hugoboss.com
264 Mark Ronson Hugo Boss Most Stylish Man 292 James Long
By Conrad Quilty-Harper. Photographed by Greg Williams Breakthrough Fashion Designer
268 Sir Michael Caine Legend
By John Naughton. Photographed by Greg Williams
270 Casey Neistat New Media Star

By Dylan Jones. Photographed by Gavin Bond
272 Jack Garratt Breakthrough Solo Artist

By Eleanor Halls. Photographed by Leo Cackett
275 Ricky Gervais Genius

By Dylan Jones. Photographed by Greg Williams
278 John Boyega Vertu Breakthrough Actor
By Robert Johnston. Photographed by Simone Lezzi
294 Bella Hadid Hugo Boss Model

By Jonathan Heaf. Photographed by Phil Poynter
298 Billy Connolly Inspiration

By Michael McIntyre. Photographed by James Stenson
300 Tame Impala Band

By Jonathan Heaf. Photographed by Jack Waterlot
303 Claudio Ranieri

Outstanding Achievement By Alastair Campbell
By Stuart McGurk. Photographed by Greg Williams
308 Nile Rodgers Icon

By Dylan Jones. Photographed by Gavin Bond
311 Amy Schumer Woman Of The Year

By Stuart McGurk. Photographed by Mark Seliger
312 Richard Caring Entrepreneur

By Paul Henderson. Photographed by Nick Wilson
314 David Bowie Editors Special Award

By Eleanor Halls. Photographed by Markus Klinko
317 Bear Grylls TV Personality

By Stuart McGurk. Photographed by Simon Webb
By Stuart McGurk. Photographed by Greg Williams
283 Alessandro Michele Fashion Designer
306 Aidan Turner TV Actor
I N A S S O C I AT I O N W I T H
318 Chris Pine International Man
By Robert Johnston. Photographed by Carlotta Manaigo
By Stuart McGurk. Photographed by Brian Bowen Smith
284 Anthony Joshua Sportsman
320 Calvin Harris Patrn Tequila Solo Artist
By Paul Henderson. Photographed by Hamish Brown
By Dorian Lynskey. Photographed by Gavin Bond
291 Sadiq Khan Politician
348 Grayson Perry Writer
By Charlie Burton. Photographed by Nick Wilson
By Jonathan Heaf. Illustrated by Anton Emdin
235
178
The Drop
Be here then
Desert Trip sets the festival

bar too high; Zaha Hadids
London legacy; footballs
Russian problem; being
Pablo Escobar; this months
cultural cornerstones.
Twenty years on from

Oasis at Knebworth,
GQ recalls the Brit-rock
supershow where two
battling brothers from
Burnage became the
musical gods of a
nations golden era.
249
Life
Get your grey matter
in gear; techs sexual
awakening; recover like
Bear Grylls; the hardesthitting boxing exercises.
BY
Kevin E Perry
346
Stockists
All the labels in this
months issue.
86
Features
178
The bad and

the beautiful
86
John Casablancas
invented the
catwalk superstar,
and yet the man
himself was no
model citizen.
BY
152
Robert Chalmers
Nothing you can see that

isnt shown
From John Lennons glasses to The Whos
Woodstock wardrobe, a new exhibition at the
V&A is telling stories from the Sixties the
decade that changed the world.
172
Is the soul of Sothebys,

Londons oldest auction
house, being sold to the
lowest bidder?
152
Simon Usborne
128
BY CHARLIE BURTON
Going, going,
gone?
BY
128
See it, click it,

wear it
Style.com is the new
online shop, brought to
you in association with
your fashion-forward
friends here at GQ.
BY ROBERT JOHNSTON
Editor
DYLAN JONES
PA TO THE EDITOR Lottie Stanners
DEPUTY EDITOR Bill Prince
CREATIVE DIRECTOR Paul Solomons
MANAGING EDITOR Mark Russell

SENIOR COMMISSIONING EDITOR Stuart McGurk
ART EDITOR James Ramsay
COMMISSIONING EDITOR Charlie Burton
ASSOCIATE ART EDITOR Oliver Jamieson
PHOTOGRAPHIC DIRECTOR Ger Tierney
FASHION DIRECTOR Robert Johnston
FEATURES DIRECTOR Jonathan Heaf
DESIGN ASSISTANT TO THE CREATIVE DIRECTOR Anna Gordon
PHOTOGRAPHIC EDITOR Ryan Grimley
STYLE & GROOMING EDITOR Jessica Punter
HEALTH & SPORTS EDITOR Paul Henderson
ASSISTANT PHOTOGRAPHIC EDITOR Anna Akopyan
FASHION EDITOR Grace Gilfeather
FASHION ASSISTANT Carlotta Constant
CHIEF SUB-EDITOR George Chesterton

DEPUTY CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Aaron Callow
GQ.CO.UK NEWS EDITOR Conrad Quilty-Harper
GQ.CO.UK PICTURE EDITOR Ale Baldwin
SUB-EDITOR Kevin Long
GQ.CO.UK INTERNS Ailis Brennan, Zak Maoui
CONTRIBUTING WOMENS EDITOR Katie Grand
JUNIOR SUB-EDITOR Holly Bruce
ASSOCIATE STYLE EDITOR Nick Carvell
GQ.CO.UK FEATURES EDITOR Matt Jones
ENGAGEMENT MANAGER Becky Lucas
STAFF WRITER Eleanor Halls
CONTRIBUTING FASHION EDITORS Luke Day, Elgar Johnson, Luke Leitch, Lou Stoppard
CONTRIBUTING ART EDITOR Adam Clayton
POLITICAL EDITOR Matthew dAncona
CONTRIBUTING STYLE EDITOR Sascha Lilic
EROTIC AFFAIRS EDITOR Rebecca Newman
LUXURY EDITOR Nick Foulkes
COMEDY EDITOR James Mullinger
PROGRAMME MANAGER Liam Keating
LITERARY EDITOR Olivia Cole
FENG SHUI EDITOR Tracey Emin
TABLET PRODUCERS Emma Dahlquist, Lucy Streule
Contributing Editors
Mel Agace, Andrew Anthony, Chris Ayres, Jason Barlow, Stephen Bayley, Tara Bernerd, Heston Blumenthal, Debra Bourne, Michael Bracewell, Jennifer Bradly, Charlie Brooks, Ed Caesar, Alastair Campbell,
Naomi Campbell, Robert Chalmers, Jim Chapman, Nik Cohn, Giles Coren, Victoria Coren Mitchell, Andy Coulson, Adrian Deevoy, Alan Edwards, Robert Elms, David Furnish, AA Gill, Bear Grylls, Sophie Hastings,
Mark Hix, JuliaHobsbawm, Boris Johnson, John Kampfner, Simon Kelner, Rod Liddle, Frank Luntz, Dorian Lynskey, Piers Morgan, John Naughton, Hans-Ulrich Obrist, Dermot OLeary, Ian Osborne,
Tom Parker Bowles, Tony Parsons, Oliver Peyton, Julia Peyton-Jones, Amol Rajan, Hugo Rifkind, David Rosen, Martin Samuel, Darius Sanai, Kenny Schachter, Simon Schama, Alix Sharkey, Ed Smith,
Ed Vaizey, Ed Victor, Celia Walden, Danny Wallace, Jim White, Michael Wolff, Peter York, Toby Young
Contributing Photographers
Miles Aldridge, Guy Aroch, David Bailey, Coppi Barbieri, Matthew Beedle, Gavin Bond, Richard Burbridge, Richard Cannon, Kenneth Cappello, Matthias Clamer, Dylan Don, Jill Greenberg, Marc Hom,
Benny Horne, Norman Jean Roy, Tony Kelly, Steven Klein, David LaChapelle, Brigitte Lacombe, Joshua Lawrence, Sun Lee, Peter Lindbergh, Steve Neaves, Zed Nelson, Mitch Payne, Vincent Peters,
Sudhir Pithwa, Rankin, Mick Rock, Mark Seliger, Sren Solkr, Mario Sorrenti, Mario Testino, Ellen von Unwerth, Mariano Vivanco, Matthias Vriens, Nick Wilson, Richard Young
DIRECTOR OF EDITORIAL ADMINISTRATION AND RIGHTS Harriet Wilson
INTERNATIONAL PERMISSIONS MANAGER Eleanor Sharman
EDITORIAL BUSINESS MANAGER Stephanie Chrisostomou
SYNDICATION syndication@condenast.co.uk
COND NAST INTERNATIONAL DIRECTOR OF COMMUNICATIONS Nicky Eaton
Publisher
VANESSA KINGORI
PA TO THE PUBLISHER Josielyn Edwards
ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Vikki Theo ADVERTISEMENT AND DIGITAL DIRECTOR Hannah OReilly SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER Lauren Maher
FASHION MANAGER Madeleine Wilson BUSINESS MANAGER AND JUNIOR RETAIL EDITOR Michiel Steur ADVERTISING ASSISTANT Manny Chadha
CREATIVE SOLUTIONS DIRECTOR Kristen Lazaric CREATIVE SOLUTIONS ART DIRECTOR JamesWarner CREATIVE SOLUTIONS ART EDITOR Nick Paterson DIGITAL DESIGNER Scott Wheeler
SENIOR CREATIVE SOLUTIONS MANAGER Alexandra Carter CREATIVE SOLUTIONS MANAGER Ottilie Chichester TALENT AND INNOVATION MANAGER Nicola Butler
RETAIL EDITOR Holly Roberts EVENTS DIRECTOR Michelle Russell REGIONAL SALES DIRECTOR Karen Allgood HEAD OF THE PARIS OFFICE Helena Kawalec
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NICHOLAS COLERIDGE
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DIRECTORS: Jonathan Newhouse (Chairman), Nicholas Coleridge (Managing Director), Stephen Quinn, Annie Holcroft, Pam Raynor, Jamie Bill, Jean Faulkner, Shelagh Crofts, Albert Read, Patricia Stevenson
Chairman, Cond Nast International
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HIGH-TECH CERAMIC. SERIOUSLY SCRATCH RESISTANT.
TIME IS THE ESSENCE WE ARE MADE OF
Cover 1. Calvin Harris

Photographed by Gavin Bond
wearing Canali
Cover 2. Bella Hadid
Photographed by Phil Poynter
wearing Boss and Boss The
Scent For Her
Cover 3. Mark Ronson
Photographed by Greg
Williams wearing Boss and
Boss The Scent
Cover 4. John Boyega
Williams wearing Boss
Cover 5. Ricky Gervais
Williams wearing Corneliani
and Boss
Cover 6. Anthony Joshua
Photographed by Hamish
Brown wearing Boss
Cover 7. Amy Schumer
Photographed by Mark Seliger
wearing Boss
Cover 8. Chris Pine
Photographed by Brian Bowen
Smith wearing Dolce &
Gabbana, Brunello Cucinelli,
Turnbull & Asser and Boss
his month sees the start of a new

chapter at GQ, with the launch of
Style.com, our luxury e-commerce
site. We like to think we already
bring you the most authoritative
menswear editorial, and now were offering the
ability to buy it too.
Style.com is the new one-stop shop from the
people who bring you GQ and Vogue. Its your
personal fashion concierge, embedding our most
knowledgeable insiders in one hi-tech hub that
learns your tastes and tailors its tips. Log on,
like and share in the future of smart retail. As
GQ Fashion Director Robert Johnston writes on
page 172, For more than a century, Cond Nast
has been in the vanguard of style and, through
the pages of GQ and Vogue, has created some of
the greatest imagery in fashion, featuring icons

such as Linda Evangelista, Claudia Schiffer and
Kate Moss, and remarkable men such as David
Beckham, Steve McQueen and Prince Harry.
Thanks to technology, these images can now
be brought to life and you can actually buy
the clothes that they and the creative teams
who dressed them inspired. So, if you like,
I N A S S O C I AT I O N W I T H
the experience of shopping will be a seamless

extension of the editorial experience.
As well as buying directly from the site,
Style.com can also be accessed from GQ.co.uk so
you can buy as you read. If you are on the GQ
website, a Style.com tab will appear to let you
know that a story is shoppable. Click the tab and
youll be shown the products you can buy, plus
recommendations based on what youre looking
at. As soon as you have nished shopping, you
just close the tab and go back to reading GQ.
The way I see it, inspiration starts on the
pages of GQ, says Style.coms President,
Franck Zayan, who was recruited from the
French department store Galeries Lafayette
to launch the company. What you see on the
pages of the magazine may help you to
Dylan Jones, Editor
40 GQ.CO.UK OCTOBER 2016
Follow us
@britishgq
@dylanjonesgq
Trump & Me by Mark Singer (Allen Lane, 9.99)

Ever since Donald Trump entered the presidential race he
has dominated headlines. Back in 1996, the New Yorker
writer Mark Singer was conscripted to prole Trump and
the result is the best aeroplane read youll nd all year.
Look for an exclusive extract in next months GQ.
My Ramones by Danny Fields

(First Third Books, 40)
Danny Fields is something of
a legend in the music industry.
Not only did he work with
The Doors and The Velvet
Underground, he also signed
and managed Iggy And The
Stooges and discovered The
Ramones. His new book
includes over 250 photos of
candid backstage pictures, as
well as electrifying live shots.
Heroes Of The Frontier by Dave

Eggers (Hamish Hamilton, 18.99)
The new novel from Eggers focuses
on a woman named Josie, who ees
a failed marriage. Without telling her
ex-husband, she takes their children
and rents an RV to set out on a road
trip. The New York Times called it a
cross between On The Road and
Henderson The Rain King with nods
to National Lampoons Vacation. Far
be it from us to disagree with them.
Swole Panda While studying at Kings College,

Oliver Slacke started learning about sustainable
development. This led to exploring alternative
resources for product development, such as
bamboo. The result is great sunglasses. Some
evenoat. 90. swolepanda.com
Vilebrequin Traditionally you

only see Vilebrequin mentioned
in conjunction with their
swimwear. But for the past few
seasons Ive been wearing their
shirts, too, as they are the kind
of classic styles that can be
worn on a beach, in a bar or on
somebody elses boat. So if
youre planning a sunny trip
thisautumn, look no further.
210. uk.vilebrequin.com
Photograph Danny Fields
make a decision on your future purchases. Style.com is the connection

between the inspiration and the transaction to create a bridge between
editorial and commerce.
The site offers a highly curated selection of products, and, as well as
menswear, youll nd womenswear, beauty and grooming products. Style.
com launches with some of the most iconic fashion brands in the world,
including Gucci, Burberry, Dolce & Gabbana, Valentino, Raf Simons and
Vetements, along with some exciting rising stars such as Casely-Hayford,
Petar Petrov and Bruta. From its very beginning, Style.com revolutionised fashion, making runway shows available to everyone, says Anna
Wintour, the Editorial Director of Cond Nast. Its tting, then, that the
sites newest incarnation will take that even further, giving us a glimpse
right now of how were all going to shop in the future.
To me, this makes perfect sense. What we are doing is the complete
opposite of what everyone else appears to be doing right now. Speak to
anyone who operates a transactional website and theyll no doubt start
boring you to death about how much content they are commissioning
these days. For some time now content has been the buzzword in our
industry and everybody seems to want some. It almost doesnt matter
what business youre in, at some point in the future youre going to start
wanting some content. If youre a business with a website, then youll be
needing some content; if you have any kind of social network presence,
then youll probably be in the market for some content; and if youve got
a video platform then youll denitely be in the business for some content.
Yadda, yadda, yadda.
Content has become so important that people dont really know what
it is theyre asking for; they just know they need some. Why? Because
people keep telling them they do, thats why. Instead of PR companies
offering bespoke solutions (PR) theyll be offering bespoke content.
Instead of advertising agencies offering tailored products (ads) theyll be
suggesting personalised content; and if you speak to any digital agency
(who will try to sell you anything they can get away with, as though the
internet were just some huge secondhand car market) theyll lean over their
desk (sorry, communal work station) and tell you that what you need
is a fully integrated, 360, digital, content-rich experience that engages
the customer as well as appealing to those free spirits who dont wish to
knowingly engage with anyone.
Or, in other words, content.
The thing is, while none of their suggested solutions are wrong, the two
fundamental problems are a) often the wrong kind of people are producing
the content and b) the content tends not to be very good (because the
wrong people are producing it).
So it makes sense that an editorially based content company like ourselves
should be moving in the other direction and adding a transactional element
to what we produce. Style.com is going to revolutionise the way you read
magazines, the way you read websites and the way you interact with your
phone. Happy shopping, and enjoy the issue, featuring our 19th annual
Men Of The Year Awards, in association with Hugo Boss.
learn with
boulevardier
origin
meaning
GANT
bool vard e ay
French
A stylish man about town.
the white shirt

Designed for the boulevardier who wings it with style.
Contributors
Greg WILLIAMS
Greg Williams photographed four of our Men Of The Year winners:
John Boyega, Sir Michael Caine, Mark Ronson and Ricky Gervais.
Williams concept for the shoots was old-school cool. Just like in the
Sixties, without over-lighting or retouching, says Williams. His best
moment? When Michael Caine arrived at my studio carrying his
own tuxedo, without publicists or assistants.
Simon
USBORNE
Michael
McINTYRE
Sothebys stakeholder
Daniel Loeb recently described
the auction house as an old
master painting in desperate
need of restoration. But, as
Simon Usborne argues in this
months feature on the auction
houses recent problems, Loebs
inuence may not be restorative.
Aggressive investors such
as Loeb are motivated by
short-term gains, he says,
rather than the heritage of
this 270-year-old company.
This month, Michael McIntyre

makes the case that Billy
Connolly, winner of this
years Inspiration award,
is still the best comedian
around. Growing up, it was
from Connolly that he learnt
much of his trade. There are
comedians who get laughs,
comedians who get rolling
laughs and then there are a
few comedians who can achieve
hysteria, says McIntyre,
and thats Billy Connolly.
AA GILL
Robert CHALMERS
John Casablancas is credited with creating
the supermodel, as founder of the Elite
agency. This month, GQ Contributing Editor
Robert Chalmers digs deep into Casablancas
hedonistic lifestyle and rise to fame. Some
say Casablancas invented the modern
celebrity, says Chalmers. Should we thank
him for that? Thats for the reader to decide.
Ger
TIERNEY
This year marks the
19th outing for one of the
most anticipated and starstudded celebrations in the
country: the GQ Men Of The
Year Awards. After a great
deal of consideration, we bring
together global talent with
an exceptional 12 months
behind them. GQ Photographic
Director Ger Tierney has been
instrumental in this process,
tasked with organising this
issues multiple covers. One
of my highlights was working
with John Boyega because
I loved Star Wars: The Force
Awakens, says Tierney. I
kept thinking, Its Finn!
Photographs Rex; Andrew Urwin
On GQ.co.uk, AA Gill recalls how he used

to eat peaches as a child, sucking them
until juice ran down his chin. Now, he cuts
them into quarters on a napkin. When did
I stop doing that? wonders Gill, realising
that although he aged without noticing, he
wants to stay middle-aged for the rest of his
life. Why? Find out online.
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Big blue: Barack Obama

accepts the Democratic
Partys presidential
nomination in Denver,
Colorado, 28 August 2008
THE LEGACY OF HOPE

As friends and foes voice their disappointment over Barack Obamas eight years in office,
GQ salutesa master of the long game who history will judge as a great president
STORY BY
n May, Shepard Fairey, the artist who created Barack Obamas

much-pastiched Hope poster, gave his verdict on the president. I
worked really hard for [Obama] so I had high hopes, he said. But
there were about six years where I think he could have done more.
Fairey is not the rst former supporter to feel disappointed. From
Matt Damon (I no longer hope for audacity) to Michael Moore
(He was the rst black president... OK, not a bad accomplishment, but
thats it), many have perceived a disparity between the promise of
Obama and what he has actually delivered. It has become a trope of his
presidency, and perhaps that was inevitable: when youre awarded the
Nobel Peace Prize after only nine months in ofce, how can you ever
live up to expectations? Whats surprising, however, is quite how poorly
he is regarded. Obamas average Gallup approval rating across his whole
term is the lowest of any president since 1953 bar Jimmy Carter. To be
clear: George W Bush was, overall, more popular.
Watching from afar in Britain, that statistic may seem absurd. Over
here, we wish some of our politicians had even a hint of the Obama
magic: that blend of whip-smart intellect with just-like-you authenticity; of measured demeanour (his nickname is no-drama Obama)
with outright swagger (he has somehow, remarkably, managed to
redene statesmanship as cool). Every time he appears on Jimmy
Fallon or releases a self-deprecating BuzzFeed video or smack talks
Photograph Getty Images
Charlie Burton
while playing basketball, the clips circulate on Facebook and our
country swoons.
The recent uptick in Obamas approval ratings as The Donald has
edged closer to the Oval Ofce is an acknowledgment from his countrymen that, true enough, the president is a class act. But showmanship
alone does not a great president make. For the last eight years, America
has been living with the political reality. The prison at Guantanamo,
which Obama promised to shut back in 2009, has endured. The right
to bear arms, despite the deaths of 20 schoolchildren at Sandy Hook
Elementary in 2012, remains sacrosanct. Obamas foreign policy, particularly in Libya and Syria, is viewed as a disaster, turning the former
into an Isis outpost and permitting the latter to spiral into chaos.
That record might seem damning. But dont write off his legacy too
fast. GQ would argue that history will commemorate Obama for more
than mere style. In fact, for all the noise about missed opportunities,
Obama may come to be seen as one of the countrys great presidents.
Heres the thing: if Hillary Clinton wins the election, her presidency
will underline the hard truth that many of Obamas supposed shortcomings were systemic rather than personal. Its not as if Obama lacks
the drive to deliver on promises such as gun control. His frustration
when he discusses the issue is obvious, but an unholy trinity of the ve
million-member strong National Rie Association, the supernatural
power of the US Constitutions second amendment and, since 2010,

a Republican-dominated Congress, has conspired to scupper his ambitions. Congress, again, is the reason that Guantanamo remains open.
And its precisely the obstructive behaviour of Congress that makes one
of his major achievements all the more astonishing. Despite corrosive
Republican opposition, Obama prevented a second Great Depression.
Its only in retrospect that hell enjoy full credit for rescuing the
economy; in the here and now its hard to appreciate the signicance
of things that dont happen. But when Obama arrived in ofce, he
inherited a problem that could have slipped into a crisis unlike any
since the Thirties. Towards the end of 2008, GDP had contracted by
8.9 per cent, the steepest quarterly plunge since 1958. A month into
his term, the US was haemorrhaging jobs at a rate of 800,000 a month.
George Soros described the situation as probably more serious than
anything in our lifetime. Obama chose to take a bullish course of
action: an $800 billion stimulus package, the largest in US history. Yet
the Republicans refused point blank to cooperate in moving it through
Congress. Before Obama had even had a chance to pitch it to the GOP,
the leadership had sent messages to members demanding they vote
it down (especially pernicious when one considers the Democrats
passing Bushs crisis bill only a few months prior). You have to hand
it to Obama that he not only decided to forge ahead regardless, but
managed to implement his plan in just six weeks. Sure, it required
careful negotiation with Republican rebels, sacricing, for instance,
resources originally intended for a schools programme, but through
force of will he found the 61 votes necessary in the Senate.
Americas greatest presidents Lincoln, say,
or Kennedy are considered as much for their
capacity to play a dud hand and nevertheless
win big. And the hands Obama was getting dealt
were particularly poor. Having triumphed on the
stimulus package, he had to solve the underlying
economic problem and again it was his chutzpah that saw him through. Millions of Americans
were living in properties worth less than their
mortgages, so lending was drying up. Some advisors were suggesting he
nationalise the banks. A wrong move could have proved catastrophic,
possibly causing a total collapse of the banking system, but the team he
convened to debate the issue could not agree upon the correct course
of action. How did Obama respond? He simply left the room and said
that by the time he was back from eating his dinner they had to have
an answer for him. The resulting decision to stress test the banks was
the right one; nancial institutions started issuing loans again.
Its that same mettle that lies behind his other major achievement.
Seven presidents before Obama had tried to expand healthcare to all
Americans and seven had failed. Although 45,000 people were dying
every year because they didnt have private health insurance, it had
become axiomatic that attempting reform was political suicide. Yet
Obama threw himself behind the policy. The Republican response
(Kill the bill! Kill the bill!) was almost religious in its zeal and the
party went into overdrive in its attempts to crush Affordable Care (aka
ObamaCare), which aimed to extend health insurance coverage to the
15 per cent of the American population that lacked it. Steering the bill
through was intensely convoluted, but Obama refused to back down
even when his own closest advisors said it would be impossible. His
doggedness paid off: the bill passed with 220 votes to 211 in the House
of Representatives. Admittedly, Obama failed in losing control of the
message, permitting Republicans to frame it as a trillion-dollar takeover
of government. Seen in the context of the great continuum of American
history, however, where the big picture matters more than petty politicking, ObamaCare will be enshrined as a landmark accomplishment.
Whereas ObamaCare and the economy were personal quests, there

are also signicant social changes that Obama didnt lead on but which
are predicated on his presidency. Some suggest that this was, in fact, a
deliberate strategy by Obama, because he knew his unpopularity would
undermine their chances. Without acting as their champion, he created
the climate within which cannabis decriminalisation and gay marriage
laws could come into effect. The former happened state by state marijuana reform has never been on Obamas policy agenda, but he has
done nothing to prevent it and has voiced sympathies with the movement and the latter is a victory that happened in the Supreme Court.
There are many past presidents whose legacies have beneted from
the passage of time. The most transformative policies often dont play
out within an election cycle. Even some of the countrys most maligned
leaders have later been judged more kindly. Lyndon B Johnson for his
social reforms, say, or Richard Nixon for bringing China in from the cold.
Obamas foreign policy will undergo the same reappraisal as its impact
comes to fruition. Its successes go well beyond the successful drone war
against al-Qaeda and the death of Osama bin Laden. Unlike many in
Washington who only seem to value that kind of muscular action, Obama
prefers, where possible, to wield soft power. Its less sexy, its less visible
but it can be crucial. Just look at Syria, which the received wisdom
calls his arch blunder. Theres no doubt that the crisis and its knock-on
effects have been disastrous, but its not clear cut that military action
would have solved the problem. What Obama did manage to achieve,
commentators have noted, is the removal of Assads chemical weapons
arsenal through careful negotiations with Russia. The planned air strikes
which he called off would have knocked out a
fraction of the stockpiles that by now might well
have fallen into the hands of Isis.
Similarly, his strategies with Iran and China have
all been about sustainability, patience and longtermism. In Iran, he has been pragmatic he knew
the only way to curtail its nuclear weapons programme was to negotiate and work towards a
realistic solution. His willingness to take the PR
pain and his resolve in getting the deal done is a valuable contribution
to the future stability of the Middle East. With China, his Strategic And
Economic Dialogue, bolstered by personal meetings with the leadership
particularly his two-day Californian summit with President Xi Jinping
have led to signicantly better cooperation between the two countries. Were already seeing the effects in, for instance, Chinas sanctions
on North Korea and, as the Far East grows stronger, Obamas investment
in Sino-American diplomatic relations will pay dividends.
In late April, just before Shepard Fairey made his critical remarks,
Obama had his nal White House Correspondents Dinner. As is traditional, he made a comic speech and, as is also traditional, whether he
was talking about Congress, CNN or Trump (The guy wanted to give his
hotel business a boost and now were praying that Cleveland makes it
through July!), behind every wisecrack lay an uncomfortable sincerity.
But no joke was more stonily honest than his opening line. His walk-on
music was Anna Kendricks cover of Lulu And The Lampshades Cups.
As Obama approached the lectern, the songs chorus rang out: Youre
gonna miss me when Im gone. You cant say it, said Obama, glancing
around the room, but you know its true.
Obama prefers to
wield soft power.
Its less sexy, less
visible... but crucial
MORE
FROM GQ
For these related stories, visitGQ.co.uk/magazine
Food, Inglorious Food (Yasmin Alibhai-Brown, September 2016)

The Schlock Of The New: How Digital Life Got Messy (Tom Goodwin, August 2016)
Real Men Do Do Therapy (Louise Chunn, July 2016)
Online store www.richardjames.co.uk Shop +44 (0)207 434 0605 Bespoke +44 (0)207 287 9645
HERMS BY NATURE
live in a members club
p.60
life upgrades
p.72
youtube invades hollywood
p.72
london goes late
p.78
gq intel
like rita ora,
dua lipa is of ethnic
albanian descent.
her career is tipped
to go in the same
direction.
THE
RISING
Photograph Andrew Woffinden
S TA R
IN her early teens, Dua Lipa

had a setback: she was
snubbed by the school choir.
My teacher said I couldnt
sing. I was heartbroken,
says the 21-year-old. Shows
what they knew. Today, the
British model-turned-singer
has a BBC Music Sound Of
2016 nomination to her
name, a belter in the charts
(Hotter Than Hell) and
racked up around 70 million
YouTube views for her 2015
hit, Be The One.
Dark of looks, smoky of
voice and fresh of sound (she
gives old school hip hop and
pop a tenebrous twist), its
no wonder Lipa is grabbing
attention. I love the
darkness rappers give, but
I want there to be a pop
chorus so people can dance,
she says. Imagine J Cole
crossed with Nelly Furtado.
Lipas debut album, out
this autumn, will be a lucky
dip in the memory box,
playing out mini-narratives
about love and heartbreak.
I want to be as truthful as
possible, she says. The
club shit can come later.
Eleanor Halls
E D I T E D BY
CHARLIE BURTON
Darkness visible:
Dua Lipa brings dusky
shades to oor-ller pop
All together now:

Anew co-living
toweris planned
forStratford, east
London; (below)
OldOak in northwest
London is the worlds
largest such space
FLY
AWAY!
Bad case of wanderlust?
Here are our favourite
co-living spaces abroad
Bali
Roam converted this
shared space from a
boutique hotel. It
features two dozen
rooms clustered
around a pool with a
co-working space on
the roof. roam.co
South Korea
The Gap house in Seoul
is a white block with
cut-out windows
giving way to an open
courtyard youll feel
like youre outdoors
even when youre not.
archihood.com
THE
DESIGN
PAG E
A COMMUNE, BUT NOT AS WE KNOW IT

How a new wave of upscale co-living spaces that blend amenities with
aesthetics are becoming the new des-reses for mobile millennials
ver wanted to set up home in a members
club? Thats the proposition behind the new
trend for co-living spaces: high-end, fully
serviced communes pitched at the digital
generation. The idea is to accommodate
groups of residents as if they were housemates, with
private bedrooms but luxe shared amenities, such as
dining spaces, roof terraces and spas. For millennials
frustrated with landlords, long contracts and time-poor
working weeks, this model is proving so popular
(versions are opening up across the globe), that Soho
House is considering entering the market.
A key selling point is beautiful design. Old Oak (above,
inset) is the worlds largest co-living space, and recently
opened in northwest London right by the Grand Union
Canal. It includes tness facilities, a games room,
cinema, library, bar, restaurant and three dining rooms.
Created by the adventurous studio PLP Architecture
for co-living property venture The Collective, it is a
striking eleven-storey block of luminescent glass, topped

by 700 square meters of landscaped gardens spread over
two roof terraces. The price? Rooms at Old Oak start
from 250 a week, including Wi-Fi and utilities. Next up
is a shimmering 112-metre co-living tower in Stratford,
intended to look like a beacon in the sky (pictured).
The Collectives CEO, Reza Merchant, founded the
company after failing to nd affordable yet comfortable
London accommodation. This venture works because we
are our own target market, says Merchant, who believes
people now value saving for holidays over saving for a
deposit, and settle down later than previous generations.
Old Oaks 546 inhabitants are free from deposits and
are treated to weekly social events, a 24-hour concierge
service, discounted massages, on-site maintenance
and housekeeping. Were offering all the social and
networking advantages of being part of a community,
he says, plus the convenience of a hotel. EH
thecollective.co.uk
Berkeley, California
OpenDoors rst
co-living property is a
revamped farmhouse
complete with
vegetable garden and
chickens. It prides itself
on jamming sessions
and community
dinners. opendoor.io
New York
Lower Manhattans
newest co-living
community features
hot tubs, a
launderette bar
andayoga studio.
Stays of any length
welcome. welive.com
THE
GAMING
GUIDE
REALISE THE DREAM TEAM

GQ has the six key tactics for managers looking to win
points and money in next-gen fantasy football
ITS the craze thats worth $26 billion across America

and Canada and now fantasy sports gaming has come
to the UK. Traditional fantasy football has long been
enjoyed in this country, but a raft of newly emerging
companies, such as FanDuel and PlayON, allows
managers to win money (rather than simply kudos)
if their teams do well. The platform with the most
buzz is DraftKings, on which, unlike conventional
fantasy football, you pick different players for each

match and can change your selections right up to the
last minute. It offers more nuance, too, as points are
earned on a greater number of plays, such as tackles
and crosses, as well as goals and assists. With the
new Premier League season getting underway, we
asked DraftKings high-roller Andy Aris for some
hard-earned advice for newbies...
THE
POWER
Go for the new boys
Full-backs from promoted teams often do well. In the DraftKings

system, keeping a clean sheet isnt the only defence metric. Defenders
in poorer teams will be busier than those in better teams so youll
accumulate high scores from small events like tackles and interceptions
instead. That can often end up meaning good defenders on bad teams
will outscore those on better teams.
Dont bother with centre-backs
If youve selected a striker from one team youre backing him to score.
That means someone else on his team will have to create chances for
him, so pick players that are likely to link together.
Leave it late
Conrm your team as late as possible. Whether its a freak rainstorm up
in Manchester or Harry Kane pulling a hamstring before a north London
derby, it always makes sense to keep your options open.
Follow the points
Target in-form, high-scoring players who are facing struggling teams.

You wont be able to afford many, as theres a budget limiting your
selection, but its important to swallow your pride when a player like
Sergio Agero (left) is on a roll.
Data is king
into
into
THE
LEMONHEADS?
HOT CHIP?
try
IZZY BIZU
A 29-year-old from
Missouri whose second
album, about the
complicated mess of
being a woman, is as
ballsy a record as youll
hear all year.
Blessed with a voice

like strawberries, this
22-year-old Londoner
has recorded a
dazzling debut R&B
album t to soundtrack
your summer.
Their songs slouch like

teenagers but listen
closely and youll hear
this London band have
an ear for melody and
lyrical turns-of-phrase.
My Woman
is out now.
A Moment Of Madness
is out now.
No Mind No Money
is out now.
try
BEACH BABY
try
BOXED IN
While producer Oli
Baystons vocals tend
towards the lugubrious,
theyre served up over
motorik rhythms and
heart-racing hooks.
Kevin E Perry
sp
Melt is out on
23 September.
o t ta b l
10
try
ANGEL OLSEN
h e po
w
is t
Do something
different this month;
tune into these
new sounds...
into
AMY WINEHOUSE?
10
BAND
into
CAT POWER?
GQ
Look at the average fantasy points per game stat, as you can often nd
an overlooked bargain, freeing you up to afford more expensive players
in other positions. Robbie Brady was one of those last season. Charlie Kind
draftkings.com
10
Photographs Alexis Dornier; Getty Images; Modelworks; PLP

Architecture; Will Price
o t ta b l
sp
Stack your team
THERE are some places

celebrities go to be
gawped at Sexy Fish,
for instance, where the
door is always aglow
with ashbulbs. The
polar opposite, you
might argue, is Blakes.
Its as much a mecca
for glitz but innitely
more discreet, tucked
away in the residential
backstreets of South
Kensington. The
boutique hotel has for
more than 30 years
served as a home from
home to everyone from
David Beckham to
Mickey Rourke. So its
no wonder that the
dining room is often full
of notables enjoying
some stolen moments
unmolested by the
press. That dining room
used to be hidden in
the basement but has
just reopened on the
ground oor. The
famous black cod is still
on the menu, alongside
the bellota Ibrico
steak and when Blakes
Bar relaunches this
month youll be able to
roll your power lunch
into a power cocktail
hour. CB 33 Roland
Gardens, London SW7.
blakeshotels.com
he po
is t
w
Full-backs are the highest scoring defenders. They tackle just as much
but will be much more likely to cross the ball or make an interception
further up the pitch.
R EGE N T ST R E ET
SL OA N E S QUA R E
L A M B S CON DU I T ST R E ET
R E D CH U RCH ST R E ET
IN THE HEAT OF ACTION, THERE ARE THOSE WHO TRUST THEIR LUCKY STAR AND THOSE
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BREITLING.COM
Moncler
This delicate wool-blend
shows the outdoor expert
can do wardrobe staples,
too. 415. At Browns.
brownsfashion.com
THE
TREND
Palm Angels
A hybrid of two of the
skate-inspired brands
most popular sweaters.
315. At Browns.
brownsfashion.com
Christopher Kane
The car-crash motif nods to
sculptor John Chamberlain.
395. At Browns.
brownsfashion.com
REPORT
Stone Island
ITS ALL GOOD

IN THE HOOD
Stone Islands pure wool/

wool-blend reversible knit
means you can turn heads with
the neon green or opt for the
classic all-black optioninstead.
Whether layered under a leather

jacket or worn as outerwear, the
hoodie is no longer menswears biggest
slacker. True, its taken a while even
the recent sports luxe renaissance
shrugged it off. Leave it to the gym
bunnies, the bone idle and the tech
titans, whispered the prevailing winds
of fashion. Theres nothing we can do
for it. Oh, but there was. A band of
forward-thinking designers decided to
reinvent the hoodie in a premium
guise, with attering cuts and ner
fabrics. So now, as the leaves start to
turn, its a style move you can deploy
without sending out the wrong signals.
Or looking like the Zuck. CB
295. stoneisland.com
PHOTOGRAPHS BY
Berluti
Eminently chic andperfect
for winterising a blazer.
680. berluti.com
Nicholas Kay
Fendi
The peel-off Velcro
letters are a clever
twist. 600. At
matchesfashion.com
Vetements
Worn by Kanye West and
A$AP Rocky, these sell
out fast. 630. At
matchesfashion.com
Brunello Cucinelli
A brown leather bottom
with a grey wool and
cashmere top, this feels as
expensive as it is. 4,140.
brunellocucinelli.com
bring your
a game
THE
MOVIE
TREND
no 22
LIKE FATHER LIKE...

As Luke (son of Ridley) Scotts directorial debut, Morgan, hits
screens, GQ pans across the new camera-wielding cine-dynasties
THE J-HOOK
Its the pro move for
nailing the neck during
your morning shave
brandon
cronenberg
1 Prelude: shave everything
down to your jaw using the
Gillette slide, whereby
you move the razor
diagonally downwards
while keeping it horizontal.
2 Now shift your razor grip

so that youre holding the
handle by your ngertips.
3 On the jawline, move

theblade in small J
motions. This will take
careof troublesome
grainvariation.
luke scott
NO CHILD OF MINE
jennifer
chambers
lynch
jason
reitman
asia
argento
Ivan Reitman
(Ghostbusters,
Twins).
Dario Argento
(Deep Red,
Suspiria).
famous
father
David Cronenberg
(The Fly,
A History Of
Violence).
career
high/low
Body-horror
Antiviral (2012)/
not directing
anything since.
Sci- short Loom

(2012)/crappy TV
show The Hunger*.
Serial killer
thriller Chained/
mega-op Boxing
Helena.
inherited
themes
Obsession with
viruses; gross-out
SFX; chilly
intellectualism.
Angry,
confused
replicants;
dystopian futures;
striking visuals.
A taste for
the perverse;
iffy quality
control; wacky hair.
pitfalls
to avoid
Getting his
workbanned,
la Cronenberg
Srs Crash.
Bloated epics, la
Scott Srs Exodus:
Gods And Kings.
Disappearing up
her own lost
highway, la
Lynch Srs
Inland
Empire.
Casting Arnie
with children, la
Reitman Srs
Kindergarten
Cop and
Junior.
what they
should
do next
Adapt
hisdads
(excellent)
novel,Consumed.
Exactly what shes

doing the
female-led
portmanteau
horror XX.
Not Ghostbusters
4: Id make the
most boring
Ghostbusters
movie.
Ridley Scott
(Alien, Blade
Runner).
Something
funny: the
Scotts have
never cracked
comedy.
THE INSTA CLASSICS
David Lynch
(Blue Velvet,
Mulholland Drive).
Indie smash
Juno/preachy
internet drama
Men, Women &
Children.
Kvetching
characters;
dysfunctional
families.
@ F * * *J E R RY
Sexual frankness
she appeared
topless in her
fathers aptly
titled Trauma.
Flirting with
self-parody, la
Argento Srs
post-2000 lms.
Shed make
abadass
Bondvillain.
MattGlasby
Morgan is out now.
Happy-snap your Instagram feed by following the grammers

behind this months three funniest macros.
4 For the neck, simply shift

the J-hook on its side.
5 Still have patches of

stubble? Try blade
buffing where you move
the razor rapidly in a
scrubbing motion, lifting
between strokes. Caveat:
dont try for the rst time
before a job interview. CB
Trailer-trash drama
The Heart Is
Deceitful Above All
Things/starring in
xXx.
@ B OYW I T H N OJ O B
@ B E TC H E S
*Also the name of a 1983 vampire lm by Ridleys late brother, Tony. Scott Srs other son, Jake, also directed an episode.
Photographs Alamy; Allstar; Getty Images; Rex
CHIP OFF THE OLD BLOCK
Seventh son: Matt Bomer

appears in Western remake
The Magnicent Seven
gq intel
THE
SHARP
SH
OOTER
PAST MASTER
How award-winning actor Matt Bomer made
cinematic history... on the small screen
Matt Bomers favourite podcast is You Must Remember This, a series
about cinemas heyday. Makes sense: the Golden Globe winner is right
at home portraying gures from Hollywoods past, whether its
Montgomery Clift (I saw myself in him) in an HBO biopic or Monroe
Stahr in Amazon Primes adaptation of F Scott Fitzgeralds The Last
Tycoon. He has an out-of-time quality about him that Amazon was
keen to protect. According to Bomer, when he shed 25 pounds for the
part the studio said, OK, stop. We still want you to look nice in your
suits. True to form, this month he stars in classic silver-screen remake
The Magnicent Seven. We wager hell t in like pistol to holster. CB
Photograph Victoria Stevens/thelicensingproject.com
the search
term most commonly
associated with matt
bomer is grey he
was fan favourite to
play christian grey in
the fty shades
adaptation.
THE
BOOK
CLUB
READ YOURSELF BETTER

Self-help books generate cynicism and sales in equal
measure, so GQ found the ones that actually work
Were as weary of self-improvement books as you are. Whether its the kind that offers a hard sell
right there on the cover or the type that provides public intellectuals with lucrative book tours,
each is about as tedious as the other. Yet there is also a third, rarer permutation: non-formulaic,
eye-opening, deeply researched and really worth your time. This month there are three...
see something extraordinary
Read: Atlas Of Improbable Places:
AJourney To The Worlds Most
UnusualCorners by Travis Elborough
andAlan Horsfield.
In a nutshell: A guide to the worlds most
curious locations, from architectural
oddities to floating worlds.
Why should you trust it? Co-author and
cartographer Alan Horsfield brings a
scientific rigour to its scope and design.
Something we learned: Arizona is home
to the original 1831 London Bridge, which
was shipped in pieces across the Atlantic
to Lake Havasu City in 1967. Out now
(20, Aurum Press Ltd).
write a novel
overhaul your career
Read: The Bestseller Code by Jodie

Archer and Matthew L Jockers.
In a nutshell: Theres an algorithm which
can predict which books will succeed.
Why should you trust it? Researchers at
Stanford used cutting-edge text mining
techniques on 20,000 novels to develop
their model.
Something we learned: The contraction
nt appears four times as often in
bestsellers, and ellipsis to indicate
unfinished thoughts is more common
insuccessful books. Adjectives and
adverbs abound in literary flops. Out
on20 September (20, Allen Lane).
Read: Designing Your Life by Bill Burnett

and Dave Evans.
In a nutshell: Find a job you love by
approaching your future as a designer
would a product.
Why should you trust it? It is based on
ahugely popular Stanford University
course and now its professors are
bringing its methods to the world.
Something we learned: In the same way
designers use prototypes to create a
mobile phone, you should prototype new
careers you are considering. Interview
those who already do it to get an idea. CB
Out now (14.99, Chatto & Windus).
Cover story: Alexi

Lubomirski cites 12
Years A Slave actress
Lupita Nyongo, who
appears on the sleeve
of his new book, as
one of his great muses
why the night of is about to take over your life

FROM Serial to Making A Murderer, weve become obsessed with real-crime podcasts and TV shows and used to revelling in
them, picking apart cases piece by tiny piece as we concoct our own theories along the way.
No shock, then, that a drama series wouldnt be far behind. HBOs The Night Of sees a young New Yorker (played, naturally,
by a Brit in Riz Ahmed) ending an unexpected night of debauchery with blood on his hands and a young girl dead. But did he
do it or can he really just not remember? Each episode takes us step-by-step through the New York City criminal justice
system. Let the wildly speculative amateur sleuthing begin. Stuart McGurk The Night Of is now showing on Sky Atlantic.
PLATFORM JUMPERS
Not content with just the web, YouTube stars have set their
sights on lm and TV. As two new projects led by online
phenoms hit our screens, we ask: which is right for you?
LAID IN AMERICA
HATERS BACK OFF
Elevator pitch: Two British teenagers on a US exchange
Elevator pitch: A Netix meta drama following the
programme vie to lose their virginity before ying home.

Cast: KSI (rapper/comedian) and Caspar Lee (vlogger).
Shrink-wrapped audience: 20.5m YouTube subscribers.
Sample dialogue: Lowering the quality raises the
quantity. Out on 26 September.
vs
character Miranda Sings, a rising star with negligible talent.

Cast: Colleen Ballinger, parody music video specialist.
Shrink-wrapped audience: 6.7m YouTube subscribers.
Sample dialogue: Haters, back off (natch). CB
Out on 14 October.
THE
PHOTO
ALBUM
Rosie Huntington-Whiteley
Jourdan Dunn
Bianca Balti
The Rosie Huntington-Whiteley

colour shot was based on an old
Helmut Newton setup in which
he would be in his own pictures
through his reection in the
mirror. So I photobombed it,
says Lubomirski. I always nd
it embarrassing with the clients
I shoot Rosie for, because I have
the perfect shot within three
takes. They look at me as if to
say, Is that it?
BEAUTY BEYOND
BOUNDARIES
Photographs Home Box Office Inc;

Alexi Lubomirski; Carol Segalll/Netflix
Cora Emmanuel
Toni Garrn
Photographer Alexi Lubomirskis new book is

a testament to his panoramic view of perfection
AS one of Mario Testinos
apprentices, Alexi Lubomirskis
rst job was the one nobody
wanted: holding the ash above
Testinos camera. But Lubomirski
was one step ahead. Mario said
to me, Youre the clever one. You
get to see my every mistake.
Twelve years on, Lubomirski has
shot everyone from Scarlett
Johansson to Jourdan Dunn.
The strong connections he
forges with his subjects form
the backbone of his latest book,
Diverse Beauty. It is prefaced by
the actress Lupita Nyongo, who,
for Lubomirski, epitomises the
most powerful form of beauty.
She smiles with her whole body,
he says. While Lubomirski toyed
with the idea of lling his
book only with black models,
he realised this would be
counterproductive. I wanted
to include everyone, not to
highlight one type of person over
the other. EH Out on 4 October
(Damiani, 35). All proceeds will
be donated to Concern Worldwide,
to work against extreme poverty.
The late late

show: Dance
the night away
at The London
Cabaret Club
THE
RUMOUR
MILL
by
alex wickham
THE
LONDON
SCENE
Now the night Tubes here, the last train home got a whole lot later.
Check out the capitals new crop of nocturnal pursuits
The bar
The curveball
The restaurant
The club
The tness fad
La Cabina
The Night Lounge

at The London
Cabaret Club
VQ Notting Hill
Sway
Midnight Runners
Why am I staying up?

Late-night dining
onsquishy leather
banquettes. In Gordon
Ramsays estimation,
itsthe best place there
is for a full English.

A 1,000-person capacity,
self-proclaimed adult
playground comprising
a restaurant, bar and
club all under one roof.

A mixture of running,
dancing and squats
across London with
150others to themed
playlists, including 007,
Carnival and Wimbledon.

Drinks till dawn if you
nd the entrance, that
is. La Cabinas door is
hidden in a phone booth.
Dial 2580 on the keypad
and youre in.
How late are we talking?
You mean early. By 5am,
The Rock has already
been in the gym an hour.
Peckish? Try tapas such
as Iberico ham, washed
down with a cocktail.
Welike the Rum Galleon:
Bacardi, coconut rum,
pineapple, marmalade,
passion fruit and cava.
Walk to Tube: 20
minutes (Bethnal Green).
232 Kingsland Road, E2.
Thursday to Saturday,
6pm to 5am.
la-cabina.com

Acrobats, pole-dancers
and barely dressed
women... What arent
you staying up for?
After midnight, the
cabaret turns into an
otherworldly club for
afurther three hours.
Peckish? The night starts
with a meal, with shows
between each course.
Then its cocktail oclock.
Walk to Tube: Five
minutes (Holborn).
Victoria House,
Bloomsbury Square,
WC1. Thursday to
Saturday, 8pm to 3am.
VIP tickets, 125. the
londoncabaretclub.com
Peckish? Since its

technically morning,
then its only right you
go for breakfast. Will
that be eggs Benedict
orFlorentine?
Walk to Tube: Two
minutes(Notting
HillGate).
A10
ing
ton
Par
kG
ard
Holborn
bro
ke
et
Lad
Stre
Row
Notting
Hill Gate
et
urnum Stre
Lad
Lab
ens
are
Squ
ue
en
St
ay
Holborn
tQ
gsw
or
ea
Kin
olb
rov
hH
G
ke
Hig
Gr
bro
Bethnal
Green

Depends on the
afterparty (the 10km run
ends at a pre-chosen
club) but usually 3am.
Peckish? You should
have brought snacks.
Plus, theres no point
wasting your hard-won
calorie decit.
Walk to Tube: Shouldnt
you be running home?
Eleanor Halls
61-65 Great Queen

Street, WC2. Friday to
Saturday, 12 noon to
3am. swaybar.co.uk
ton
mpton
et
Peckish? Sway is all

about the small bites
(cheese croquettes,
minichorizo sausages),
because how can you
enjoy deep house on
afull stomach?
New
Southa
s
Ken

Its another 3am curfew,
but you could very easily
spend your whole
evening there.
Walk to Tube: Three

minutes (Holborn).
24 Pembridge Road,
WC11. Thursday to
Saturday, 7am to 3am.
vqrestaurants.com
Bloomsbury
Square Gardens
Mill Row
Phillipp Stre

Until 3am. If you require
food later, head down to
the Chelsea branch.
Runs take place on

thelast Friday of the
month and are free.
midnightrunners.co
Ambitious Tory MP
Alan Mak wandered
into the Commons
tea room during the
leadership contest to
meet a group of senior
colleagues. Alan,
were all agreed, they
told him. We think
youre ready. We want
to run your campaign.
Alas, straight faces
could not be kept and
the prank was busted
to much amusement.
Jeremy Corbyns aides
are paranoid about
Labour plotters.
During a heated row,
a senior Corbynista
claimed members of
the shadow cabinet
had links to MI5.
Dont worry, Jez if
the security services
really were in on it,
the coup might have
been successful.
Remain campaigner
Anna Soubry suffered
one nal humiliation
when she lost her
cabinet post in the
reshufe. Who took
her desk? Only Brexit
champion and new
secretary of state
Liam Fox. Ouch.
Photograph Tanya Raab
STARLIGHT EXPRESS
Before leaving Number

Ten, David Cameron
chatted with then
leadership contender
Andrea Leadsom.
My 12-year-old is
concerned about
moving home, Dave
revealed. Mine is,
too! she replied.
Turns out she neednt
have worried.
Tinie Tempah
Taya and Amara Lane
Joshua Kane, Dougie Poynter

and Alistair Foster
Abbey Clancy
PARTY
SQUAD
GOALS
Photographs James Mason
Professor Green and

Darren Kennedy
Oliver Cheshire
Millie Mackintosh and Portia Freeman
Flash
Phoebe Fox and Laura Hayden
Ella Catliff
Bip Ling and Will Best
Max Lousada, Rita Ora and Ben Cook
IT might have been the evening of

a signicant Euro 2016 xture (we
wont mention it for the sake of a
certain Valleys-born staffer lets
say, hypothetically, it could have
been Wales vs Portugal) yet GQ
and Warner Musics annual summer
party at Shoreditch House was
packed to the gunwales. Well,
who wants to watch the football
when you could be partying with
Rita Ora, Tinie Tempah, Professor
Green, Abbey Clancy and Charli XCX?
Seb Chew
Tess Ward and Charlie Newman
PAG E
Sonya Kupriienko,
Sam Harwood,
Toby Huntington-Whiteley
and Anna Kupriienko
Charli XCX
Clara Amfo and Dua Lipa
THE
Create the campaign Star with Jordan pepemixitup.com
gievesandhawkes.com
BAD
THE
and the
BEAUTIFUL
Charming, hedonistic and
ruthless, John Casablancas
was the super-agent who
invented the supermodel,
turning a secretive world into
a whirl of public excess and
notoriety. Now, GQ examines
his controversial legacy,
from the cult of professional
celebrity to the damaged
lives of the women he loved
STORY BY
Robert Chalmers
PHOTOGRAPH BY
Patrick Demarchelier
JOHN CASABLANCAS
Papa Cass:
John Casablancas
and the Elite Model
Look class of 96,
which included
Ana Beatriz Barros,
Diana Kovalchuk and
Isabeli Fontana
Don Juan,
Casanova...
their whole
lives are
not equal
to one year
of Johns
old-school practitioners, who chaperoned their

young charges.
Eileen Ford, Casablancas complained,
wont even let her girls drink wine at parties.
Before I arrived, he added, the agent was
always trying to pretend that all the girls were
in bed by eight. I came along with a young,
European bad boy image. The gamble was that
it wouldnt appeal to some of the parents but
that the kids would like it. It worked.
When it came to other things that Eileen
Ford tried to discourage all-night parties,
casual sex and recreational drug use Elite
was perceived as maintaining a more relaxed
attitude. Eileen Ford is a prude, its founder
argued. I am not.
When Casablancas brought Elite to New York
in 1977, he instigated what became known as
the Model Wars, poaching young talent and
their bookers from the major agencies. While
his competitors represented hundreds of girls
(in modelling parlance there are only ever
girls, never women) he focused his attention
on a handful of pampered favourites models
such as Crawford, Christie Brinkley and Iman.
Casablancas promoted them as superstars and
Casablancas
encouraged
indulgence
in his young
employees
saw a woman without a shopping trolley) the

idea might have seemed a little less compelling.
Why should we be interested in a cinema-documentary about a dead agent?
Because he was a visionary, Bernard
says. And because his inuence extended
way beyond modelling. I believe that John
Casablancas was the man who invented professional celebrity. One of the most heavily
exposed people in public life today is Kim
Kardashian, he adds. She is the direct heir
of the vision that John pioneered.
Those of us whose admiration for Ms
Kardashian West has its limits, I tell Bernard,
might be tempted to respond, Well, thank you
so much for that. What meaning does fame
have if it can happen to just anybody?
John Casablancas asked himself what was
the potential of these models, apart from their
beauty? He understood that if you added other
dimensions their personal lives, sex scandals,
ghts then that would give them value. He
was the rst person to see models as a brand.
He was a marketing genius.
Bernards previous productions include
Lagerfeld Condential (2007), an acclaimed
portrait of the head designer of Chanel.
Probably his most unorthodox production
has been Rubber (2010), the story of a vengeful and sexually voyeuristic car tyre that rolls
unaided around a remote town in California,
where locals find themselves significantly
inconvenienced by its ability to emit ultrasound
vibrations that cause their skulls to explode.
That dark comedy might not be everybodys
cup of tea but it was undeniably bold, original and, as Bernard puts it, very ambitious.
invoiced the client accordingly. The controversy he provoked at the time created a news
story that, according to one American journalist, who may have suffered something of
a rush of blood, was bigger than Watergate.
The Man Who Loved Women is produced by
Gregory Bernard, a smart, dynamic, Paris-born
entrepreneur with a background in political
science. His diverse other ventures include a
string of pioneering tech start-ups and his own
international designer brand, Olympia Le-Tan.
We meet at Bernards offices near the
Louvre, adjacent to the former premises of Le
Chabanais, the most infamous brothel in the
citys history, whose clientele included Edward
VII, Cary Grant and Humphrey Bogart. Its not
hard, I suggest to Bernard, to see why a man
with his instinctive grasp of fashion should
have initiated a lm on Casablancas. He grew
up in the well-manicured 16th arrondissement
of the French capital. A sense of style must
have permeated him by osmosis. If hed been
raised in the part of Manchester where I grew
up (If Im frank, I tell him, it wasnt till I
was 15 and on a day trip to London that I rst
asablancas: The Man Who Loved

Women is a comparatively orthodox production, unswervingly
loyal to its subject. The agent,
according to Michael Gross
author of rather less reverent books on the
fashion industry, such as his 1995 classic,
Model: The Ugly Business Of Beautiful Women,
and his new book on photographers, Focus
fought tirelessly to control the narrative of his
own life. Woroniecki, the new lms director,
was a friend of the agent and worked with him
at Elite in New York from 1993 to 1997. The
executive producer is Casablancas Brazilianborn widow, Aline, who married him, aged 17,
in 1993. She was 33 years his junior.
The movie addresses, if not in great
depth, the unfortunate circumstances of
Casablancas departure from Elite, shortly
after the broadcast of a documentary made
by Donal MacIntyre and shown by the BBC in
November 1999 as part of his series, MacIntyre
Undercover. MacIntyre had spent a year
undercover in Paris and Milan, using concealed cameras. The footage he acquired
Photographs John Casablancas; Marco Glaviano; Claude Guillaumin;

Jacques Silberstein; Paul Slade/Getty Images
heres a scene in the lm Play It

Again, Sam in which Woody Allen,
in his role as a neurotic divorc
haunted by Humphrey Bogarts
character in Casablanca, is reminded
of the advantages of being single again.
Youre free, says his best friend, played
by Tony Roberts. Youll go out. There will be
girls. Youll go to parties. Youll have affairs
with married women. Youll have sexual relations with girls of every race, creed and colour.
Oh, Allen replies. You get tired of that.
There are some, however, who never weary
of such distractions. One such was the late
John Casablancas, founder of the Elite modelling agency. For Casablancas, indulgence in
what he called every mans favourite hobby
turned out to be not just a passion, but a living.
People unfamiliar with his history often
assume the Americans exotic surname to be
a pseudonym inspired by the iconic Bogart
lm, which was released in 1942, the year the
agent was born. But John Casablancas, like
Keith Moon or George Best, was simply one of
those legends born with a name that he suited.
When you start talking to people about the
man credited with inventing the concept of
the supermodel, its never long before someone
accidentally refers to him as John Casanova.
Its an understandable slip of the tongue. The
Daily Telegraph, in his obituary, abandoned its
habitual tone of demure understatement and
described him as having bedded more [beautiful women] than anyone else on the planet.
Don Juan and Casanova, explained photographer and model scout Jacques de Nointel, a
close friend of Casablancas, their whole lives
are not equal to one year of Johns.
The fashion entrepreneur, who died of
cancer in July 2013, is the subject of a new
lm directed by Hubert Woroniecki called
Casablancas: The Man Who Loved Women. The
movie, whose title deliberately recalls the 1977
Franois Truffaut lm of the same name, is narrated throughout by its subject, who explains
how he revolutionised the modelling business
in the Seventies and made international stars
of women such as Cindy Crawford, Naomi
Campbell and Linda Evangelista.
The film begins with him being lauded
by gures such as David Letterman, Oprah
Winfrey and the controversial boxing
promoter Don King, who called him, rather
alarmingly, a man after my own heart.
In his prime, Casablancas was a strikingly
handsome figure, despite maintaining the
kind of traditional playboy demeanour parodied in the Pink Panther lms by Inspector
Clouseaus suave alter ego, Guy Gadbois.
When he established Elite in Paris in 1972,
the global modelling business was dominated
by two large American agencies, run respectively by Eileen Ford and Wilhelmina Cooper:
JOHN CASABLANCAS
Model citizen (clockwise from top

left): John Casablancas with Linda
Evangelista at the models wedding
to his colleague Grald Marie, 1987;
Casablancas rst marriage ended
inthe wake of his 1983 affair with
teenage model Stephanie Seymour;
Iman (third from left) was among
thegirls Casablancas shaped into
supermodels; at his desk at Elite, New
York, 1978; with his Look Of TheYear
competition, Casablancas sought
modelling talent all over the world,
here in Mauritius, 1985; Casablancas,
whose son, Julian, fronts The Strokes,
at the piano in theSeventies; Elite
models mark the US agencys fourth
anniversary in 1981; the cohort of
1983s Look Of The Year now
EliteModel Look in Acapulco;
Casablancas with his roster at the
height of his Eighties glory days
JOHN CASABLANCAS
ex, drinking and other excesses at

Elite parties tend to be described in
Casablancas recollection of events
as fun a noun that recurs in
the Received Standard Version of
his life. But there are aspects of the industrys history that nobody could call amusing.
One former model, Gia Carangi, a bisexual
heroin addict from Philadelphia, wound up
working as a hooker and died of Aids in 1986.
Carangi, already notorious for her chronic drug
abuse by the time she joined Elite in 1981
(having made her name with Wilhelmina) was
played by Angelina Jolie in Gia, the 1998 biopic
written by Jay McInerney. The full detail of her
humiliating decline is recounted in Thing Of
Beauty, the biography by Stephen Fried, published in 1993.
Hubert Woroniecki, 48, is of Polish origin
but grew up in Paris. He is a bright, engaging
and likeable man who rst met Casablancas
in Ibiza in 1984. Theres no doubt, the director tells me, that there were tragic casualties
in the world of the supermodel.
But I think these people would have had
problems even if they had been chefs or gardeners, he says. I saw girls who might have
wound up working in a supermarket in Ohio
and going home at night to three kids and a
drunk who beat them all up. Instead, they met
John Casablancas and travelled all over the
world, meeting incredible people. Thats why
I wanted to make this lm. My job was to tell
this mans extraordinary story.
Casablancas was born in New York in
December 1942. His family, whose wealth
derived from his Catalan grandfathers patenting of a cotton-spinning device, had
ed Barcelona when the Spanish Civil War
broke out. He was educated at Le Rosey, the
exclusive Swiss boarding school whose list
of privileged alumni boasts generations of
Rothschilds, Prince Rainier III of Monaco, Dodi
Al-Fayed and Casablancas son Julian, singer
with The Strokes.
Theres a calm, reassuring tone to

Casablancas narration in the lm. The gentleness of his voice, rendered a little fragile by
the condition that would eventually kill him,
makes his whole life, and especially his youth,
sound a little bit like heaven. His sister dates
the Aga Khan, which is fun. Hes seduced by
many women, which is fun too. Even disgrace is enjoyable. He was disowned by Le
Rosey after he had sex with one of the schools
maids. That, as he recalls it, was great fun as
well, though what happened to the maid we
never discover.
My life was a dream, Casablancas said.
People say that if youre very good in one
life, you get a marvellous life in the next turn.
I must have been perfect the life before.
Theres a French adjective, pistonn, used
to describe somebody whose professional
ascent is rapidly accelerated by virtue of
wealth, privilege and family connections.
Casablancas attended law school in Spain and
worked briey for an estate agent in Barcelona.
A friends mother found him a marketing job
with Coca-Cola in Brazil. He stayed there for
John
understood
that sex and
scandal gave
models value
three-and-a-half years and married his French
girlfriend, Marie Christine, on the insistence
of her father.
His wifes family found him a PR job back
in Paris and it was in 1967, after the couple
had returned to France, that according to
Casablancas (a man who in the battle to
maintain monogamy suffered innumerable
crushing defeats) my marriage started falling
apart. He left his wife for a Danish model,
Jeanette Christiansen. A few months later,
Marie Christine was pregnant.
He said he had no intention of going back
to her, Christiansen said. He wasnt exactly
sorry. I had to accept it or leave it. I thought
Id see what happens.
With Christiansen and other Scandinavian
models he opened his rst ofce, Elyse 3,
in the prestigious Avenue George V in Paris,
with $100,000 donated by his father. When
the business began to struggle he left it in
the hands of his brother and opened Elite.
He liked the company name because it suggested sophistication, privilege and good taste.
He liked the logo because it was modelled
on a penis.
The term supermodel was rst used in

its modern sense in 1943, by Clyde Matthew
Dessner, a long-forgotten American agent. But
it was Casablancas who rst gave it meaning.
My inspiration, he said, was the
Hollywood system of the Forties. Theyd build
a star and control everything her look, her
personal life, her appearances. What was
lacking for models was public recognition.
[People would say,] Oh, I love that Revlon girl
but I dont know her name. [We pioneered]
the idea that a model could become a celebrity.
We had to build a mystique. That her value
would become much bigger was obvious. And
that became the credo of Elite.
he light-hearted, celebratory tone
of his narration in The Man Who
Loved Women is maintained even
in his least glorious moments. At
one point he relates how, in the
early days in Paris, his models are threatening
to leave. Casablancas, who was 6ft 2in and, in
those days, muscular and well-built, enters the
ofces armed with a baseball bat. As he recalls
threatening the frightened young women
with GBH, he sounds not so much menacing
as bold and mischievous. He boasts of wielding the weapon and telling the women, If
youre not out of here in 60 seconds, Ill start
beating all of you with this. At which point,
They started running around like chickens
trying to gather their things. (The question
of what things a chicken seeks to gather in
such urgent circumstances is never addressed.)
All except one stayed.
Elite survived, became a group and moved
to New York.
Once in the US, he set about aunting the
unwritten convention that forbade enticing
staff from larger agencies. He lured away the
best girls and administrators, notably Monique
Pillard, who had been Eileen Fords head
booker and would become Casablancas most
crucial collaborator. When Pillard left, Ford
famously sent her a Bible with a passage from
the Gospel of Mark, describing the treachery
of Judas, underlined in red ink.
Casablancas, meanwhile, persisted in
a more secular approach to his work. He
acquired stars like Christie Brinkley, Janice
Dickinson and Patti Hansen and was soon
paying them a minimum of $2,000 a day.
Where Ford had sought to curb and deny
her young employees interest in excess and
self-indulgence, Casablancas encouraged and
aunted it. He organised his notorious T-shirt
parties, where models were instructed to
arrive naked apart from their underwear and
a white shirt with the slogan Property of
John Casablancas.
How, I ask producer Gregory Bernard,
did feminists view Casablancas? As a
Gutter credit hereplease Gutter name here
suggested that drug taking, crass vulgarity and a sexual interest in vulnerable young
models were habits familiar to at least one
senior gure at Elite Grald Marie, then
head of the European operation. (Casablancas
himself was not followed by MacIntyre,
neither is there any suggestion that he or
the agencys hierarchy were complicit in or
condoned such activities.) That episode of
MacIntyre Undercover was the subject of legal
action, a case settled out of court by the BBC,
and the documentary has never been screened
since, though its gravest accusation namely
that these guys had lascivious interests in
girls who they should have been protecting
is also prominent in MacIntyres self-titled
book of 1999.
W W W. F A R A H . C O . U K - E A R L H A M S T R E E T L O N D O N
JOHN CASABLANCAS
kind of a devil, he says. Because he
was sleeping with all these women. But the
thing you have to understand is that he also
empowered them.
Dickinson was regarded as one of the wilder
characters at Elite no mean achievement
given the competition before she went into
rehab in 1982. I was the only model in his
agency that he hadnt slept with, she claimed.
He was sleeping with all of them, twosomes,
threesomes. But he had to take my orders. He
had to kiss my ass.
There were some girls, Michael Gross tells
me, that to quote Cindy Crawford you
just dont f*** around with. Because they are
money in the bank.
ohn Casablancas, the broadcaster
Jerry Springer observed, around
this time, is a hunter. He is pursuing big game.
Theres a common assumption,
according to Hubert Woroniecki, that John
opened Elite so he could sleep with beautiful
women. Actually it was the other way round.
He was already sleeping with them. The agency
was a commercial opportunity. He adds that
he believes his friend really did fall in love
with all of them.
How many women are we talking about?
I dont think he would have known.
Is that because he struggled to remember
numbers with more than four digits?
No. Its because he wasnt the kind of
person who would have kept count. I do
believe that he fell in love with them all, even
if it was only for six hours. Then he moved on
to another one.
I know about envy, gluttony and lust, I tell
Woroniecki, but I sometimes have difculty
listing every one of the seven deadly sins. How
many should you expect to encounter in the
world of modelling?
All of them, he replies.
The Danish-born model Bitten Knudsen
a close friend of Gia Carangi died in March
2008. Speaking to Michael Gross for Model,
she described Casablancas as a dog. He kept
following me around and I wasnt interested.
I said, Who is this creepy guy? Tell him
to stop.
This sort of testimony is unusual. By contrast
with some fellow agents, Casablancas is generally perceived, as one colleague put it, to have
seduced them in the right way.
Still, theres a commonly held perception, I
suggest to Monique Pillard, now retired, that
Casablancas was less concerned than Eileen
Ford about the welfare of his models?
To say that, she replies, is really unfair.
While John was travelling, my staff and I held
the fort and took care of our models... and at
times acted as surrogate parents in the way
that you suggest Ford did. That said, John did

date many of them, so he was never going to
pretend to be a father gure to them. I say that
having worked in both places.
One inescapable truth is that Casablancas
found a stable domestic life continually elusive.
He divorced Christiansen, mother of his
rock-star son, Julian, in the mid-Eighties.
Our marriage, he explained at the time,
did not resist some of the difficulties of
being married.
Prime among these unspecified snags
appears to have been his affair with Stephanie
Seymour, a schoolgirl from San Diego who
entered the rst Elite Look Of The Year, a televised beauty competition (now renamed Elite
Model Look) in Acapulco in 1983. Contestants
paid a $15 entry fee in the hope of gaining a
modelling contract. Casablancas was among the
judges. Other nalists that year included Cindy
Crawford, but it was Seymour who caught his
eye. The couple began dating when she was
16, and Casablancas was 42. On the advice of
her father, Seymour ended the relationship
after two years. (Seymour is now married to
He really did
fall in love
with them all,
even if only
for six hours
billionaire industrialist Peter Brant, a mere 21
years her senior.)
Of all the women in my life, Casablancas
said, Stephanie was the only one that really
broke my heart.
He met his third wife, the Brazilian Aline
Mendona de Carvalho Wermelinger, when
she entered Elites Look Of The Year contest
in Rio de Janeiro in 1992. When they married
in February the following year an alliance
that endured till his death Aline was 17 and
Casablancas was 50.
Such an age difference, he informed an
American chat show host, is a common thing
in Europe, where I come from.
Am I wrong, I ask Woroniecki, to nd the
idea of marrying someone young enough to be
your granddaughter just a little disconcerting?
It doesnt shock me, Woroniecki says, so
long as theyre happy. John was that way. Im
not. Ive been married for 15 years and Ive got
two kids. I never wanted to be that way and
thats why I left the busi... Woroniecki pauses.
If you ask me, its not very mature behaviour.
But he was that way to the end.
Sources including Casablancas former colleague Francesca Mugagliani are on the record
as asserting that he had relationships with
girls under the age of sixteen. Mugagliani is
dead. Casablancas always vigorously refuted
such allegations.
That the agent survived such potentially damaging gossip, Michael Gross tells me, indicates
what is really the most interesting thing about
Casablancas, namely what a hugely attractive
character he was, despite his, shall we say, predilections. He was funny. He was educated. He
was charming. This, remember, is a guy who
came into the business in 1969, just after The
Rolling Stones had released Stray Cat Blues
a song that includes the lines I can see that
youre 15 years old / No, I dont want your ID.
That way of thinking was not only accepted in
many circles it was winked at, if not admired.
John was a man of his time. His problem was
that the times changed and he didnt.
In the early years, Casablancas had likened
himself to Henry Higgins, personal consultant
in social climbing to Eliza Doolittle in George
Bernard Shaws Pygmalion, played by Rex
Harrison in the 1964 lm version of the plays
adaptation as a musical, My Fair Lady. With
time, as his best-known supermodels acquired
ever more fame, money and, in several cases,
a forthright attitude, he took to comparing
himself to another fictional character: Dr
Frankenstein.
We created our own monsters, he said.
We took them so high up that they started
getting attorneys and business managers.
In other words, Casablancas explained, We
lost control.
he most conspicuously volatile of
his creations was Naomi Campbell,
who had acquired a reputation for
stubborn intransigence on a level
that, by Casablancas account, was
impressive even by the standards of a diva.
(Campbell was allegedly red by Elite in 1993
she says she chose to leave but later rehired.)
In a conversation in 1997 with the
French magazine VSD, he was asked which
models he couldnt bear. All of them, he
replied. When a model starts to annoy me
I fire her with a kick up the ass. Ive run
out of patience. They are so arrogant. Its
become an epidemic. Professional models,
he argued, were unbearable, spoilt painsin-the-neck, surrounded by idiots and
leeches. Where Campbell was concerned,
he said, You cant imagine the pleasure it
gave me to sack Naomi. She was odious. She
didnt sleep. God knows what she did to stay
in shape. Heidi Klum, meanwhile, was a talentless German sausage.
It seems generally agreed, I suggest to
Hubert Woroniecki, that the lifestyles of
HUGOBOSS.COM
JOHN CASABLANCAS
It seems generally agreed, I suggest to
Hubert Woroniecki, that the lifestyles of
some models at some agencies didnt enhance
their potential for politeness or punctuality.
Casablancas openly admitted to four
weaknesses: women, tobacco, alcohol and
gambling. Given the slightly manic tone of
that outburst against the very stars whose
egos he had worked so hard to inate, was
there any other addiction that he should
have declared?
John, Woroniecki replies, had pretty
much every failing in the world. The one he
didnt have was drugs. He told me that at his
rst agency in Paris a girl arrived who had just
come out of prison. She gave him a big piece of
what she told him was chocolate cake. He ate
the lot. After she left the ofce, which was on
the ground oor, he spent three hours crawling
around on the carpet on all fours because he
was afraid of going near the window.
Well, weve all been there.
Of course. But most people enjoy the experience. He didnt. And I think thats to do with
his desire to remain in command of events.
I think thats why being left by Stephanie
Seymour affected him so badly. When she disappeared, he said, That was the only time I
lost control.
I tell Woroniecki that Im a big fan of an early
lm he made called Death Everyday..., shot
at the morgue in Lodz, Poland, a production
which demonstrates the directors great humanity and wit. In one unforgettably surreal scene
the morticians are dressing cadavers while they
listen to their horoscopes on the radio.
Woroniecki was still editing the new lm
when his subject was diagnosed with cancer.
Did he ever consider getting Casablancas to
confront the subject of his own mortality?
No. That wasnt what I wanted in this lm.
I wanted him talking about his life and the
evolution of the modelling business. John had
recovered from a rst treatment for cancer in
around 2000. We did the main recordings in
New York in 2011. In May 2012 he called me
and he said, Ive just left the doctors. I have
six months to live. As it turned out, he survived for more than a year.
aradoxically for Casablancas it
would be a series of glaring lapses
in self-control that would nish
him at Elite: failings not related
to his own character but that of
his close associate Grald Marie.
Where Casablancas made his conquests
through gentility and charm, Marie had long
had a more unpleasant reputation, damaged
further by allegations about his behaviour in
the 2011 memoir of former Elite model Carr
Otis, Beauty, Disrupted. Casablancas and Marie
had never collaborated and for years had
tested each others capacity to maintain a semblance of civility.

According to Casablancas, Marie once called
him arrogant, fat and dripping with bling.
But in 1985, fully engaged with his expanding business in New York, the Elite owner was
desperately in need of a seasoned professional
to run the Paris operation. Against his better
judgement, as he explains in The Man Who
Loved Women, he was persuaded to choose
Marie. The partnership, Casablancas said later,
was a deal with the devil.
Did it never occur to Monique Pillard to talk
Casablancas out of this decision?
Actually the opposite, she says. I thought
it was a good idea to hire Grald Marie. There
were obviously going to be some personality
conicts, but Grald, with all his issues, was a
great agent one of the best. So [I felt] it was
a risk worth taking.
Maries issues constitute the principal
focus of Donal MacIntyres controversial BBC
documentary. He emerges from MacIntyres
book as a cynical and boastful individual.
MacIntyre tells me he couldnt recall ever
John knew
what he lost
as a result of
the way he
chose to live
meeting Casablancas. That documentary is
now unobtainable, but Woronieckis film
includes one excerpt from it in which Marie,
in typically graceless mood, boasts over lunch
that, I have lots of little pieces of octopussy.
His work, he told MacIntyre, took him to a
world of pussy like strawberry tart.
John Casablancas was on holiday at Miami
Beach when he heard about MacIntyres lm.
I got this phone call, he explains in
The Man Who Loved Women. You know
that friend of Grald Maries? The photographer? He was an undercover journalist.
And he followed Grald around the world. I
knew Grald. So I was terried when I heard
that. I looked at this thing [MacIntyres
documentary]. I had tears in my eyes. I was
so ashamed. I was so disgusted by it. I called
Paris. I said, I want the resignation of this
asshole. Right away.
Initially, Casablancas said, They all agreed
Grald had to go. Then they hired a PR
rm who said he had been entrapped. And
that there had been an incredible amount
of editing, which was true. The BBC lm,
Casablancas added, was, a disgusting piece of
journalism. But it is fair. You have to assume

responsibility for these things that were said
by some Elite people.
In the end it was Casablancas who quit Elite,
by then the worlds leading agency, with a
turnover in excess of $100 million (62.5m).
Friends say that the circumstances in which he
left Elite, and in particular the litigation that
followed it, meant that he struggled to nd fullment in his later years, when he divided his
time between Miami Beach and Brazil.
Marie still works in the modelling industry,
as head of Oui Management in Paris.
f you had to choose one song to represent the trajectory of John Casablancas
career, you could do worse than Smokey
Robinsons classic, The Hunter Gets
Captured By The Game.
Its interesting, I suggested to Hubert
Woroniecki, that the main character in
Truffauts The Man Who Loved Women, played
by Charles Denner (Blake Edwards directed an
inferior remake in 1983) is a serial philanderer
but also a victim. His life is shaped by his compulsive pursuit of fresh conquests: a car hire
clerk, a baby-sitter, a classical musician, an
usherette, a switchboard operator, a homicidal
astrologer, a copyreader. The one who hurts,
Denners character says, gets hurt.
Does Woroniecki believe that Casablancas
was happy? People with less strenuous romantic lives might like to convince themselves that
when Casablancas was alone, in moments of
quiet contemplation, he experienced a terrible loneliness, something akin to a desperate,
aching void.
I think the answer to that is, honestly,
no, he didnt. He had a balanced perspective
on what he did. He knew, Woroniecki says,
what his mistakes were.
Namely?
Leaving Jeanette for Stephanie Seymour,
for instance. He didnt leave enough space for
his personal life. The job he did is a hard one,
especially as you get older. You spend your
whole life with the girls and the clients and
it is very difcult to establish a balanced life.
He knew what he lost, Woroniecki says, as
a result of the way he chose to live.
And there is just one moment, in his
otherwise consistently upbeat contribution to Woronieckis lm, when Casablancas
allows himself to pause, and engages in
serious reection. Does [my life and career]
add up to something meaningful? he asks.
That I really dont know. Nothing I have
done has changed the world. But, by God, he
adds, reverting instinctively to the comforting familiarity of his favourite noun, have I
had fun.
Casablancas: The Man Who Loved Women is
out now.
I am farsighted in #mycalvins
MARCHON U.K. TEL: 0800 72 20 20 E7:J17 CK8524
calvinklein.com
Mark MacEachen, Model
After 21 years spent kitting out

the worlds sharpest members
clubs, SohoHouse launches
itsown homewares hub
PHOTOGRAPH BY
Matthew Beedle
1
E D I T E D BY
AARON CALLOW
4
3
5
2
10
13
12
11
1 Table lamp, 225. 2 Vintage trunk table, 150. 3 Armchair by George Smith For Soho Home, 1,800. 4 Cushion, 50.
5 Basket, 65. 6 Books, from 20 each. 7 Bowl, 25. 8 Candles by Cowshed, from 25 for four. 9 Coffee table, 495.
10 Vintage rug, 525. 11 Armchair by George Smith For Soho Home, 1,300. 12 Vintage stool, 110. 13 Glass, 8.
All at Soho Home. sohohome.com
Rough-Out Suede is tough, water resistant and with each step

takes on a rugged distinction. Crockett & Jones most casual
material is available in Black, Dark Brown and Green.
MADE IN ENGLAND | SINCE 1879
LONDON
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11 EAST 55TH STREET
RUE DE NAMUR
LE MADELEINE
BOULEVARD RASPAIL
LE MARAIS
CROCKETTANDJONES.COM
WHAT I WEAR
P H OTO G R A P H BY
SIMON WEBB
Spectors bassist,
musician and model
Thomas Shickle,
masters a personal
mix of new hits
and nostalgia
WISH LIST
Shoes
These are hand-me-downs from my dad.
They were too scruffy to wear so I polished
them up. Im pretty lucky to be the same size
as him but Id still like my own pair.
By Prada, 470. prada.com
Suit
WISH LIST
Last summer, my dad was

invited to Buckingham Palace so
we bought suits together for the
event. We went to Cordings on
Piccadilly, which is one of his
favourites. This is a really classic
English suit. 595. cordings.co.uk
T-shirt
Most days, I wear a suit but Ill
always wear a T-shirt with it. Its
usually vintage but I like this one
because, growing up in London,
Wiley has always been around.
By Grime Tees, 30. grimetees.co.uk
Watch
Story Charlie Kind Photograph Jody Todd

Grooming Alice Howlett using MAC and Bumble And Bumble
I only wear a watch for

special occasions or when I
want to make an impression.
This was a gift for my 21st.
Carrera Calibre 5 by TAG Heuer,
1,409. tagheuer.co.uk
WISH LIST
WISH LIST
Watch
My dad wore this watch
when I was growing up
and I always remember its
shape and the smell of the
leather strap. Im not sure
whether I want my own or
just his. Monaco by
TAG Heuer, 4,050.
tagheuer.co.uk
Wallet
WISH LIST
Sunglasses
I normally go for large, square frames
because they suit my funny-shaped face.
Most expensive sunglasses seem too light,
but these ones actually weigh something.
By Saint Laurent, 225. ysl.com
I dont follow trends. I either

like buying good quality or fun
clothes rather than what Im
told is cool. This Comme Des
Garons wallet ticks both
boxes. 128. At Dover Street
Market. doverstreetmarket.com
Shoes
These Monkey Boots
were the original
skinheads choice.
I wear them most
days for smart and
casual looks.
By Grafters, 36. At
Shuperb. shuperb.co.uk
SAM & SHAKA

ARTISTIC DUO
THEKOOPLES.COM
E D I T E D BY
PAUL HENDERSON
Hero of the revolutions

GQs Paul Henderson
slips the blockade to take
the streets of Cuba in
Audis new crossover
classic, the Q2
PHOTOGRAPHS BY
Nick Wilson
Freedom rings:
In theshadow of Che
Guevara, Audi parks its
tank (well, subcompact
mini-SUV) on Havanas
Revolution Square
CARS
VWS BIG
GAMBLE
PAYS OFF
ORDINARILY, we dont really
bother with Volkswagens.
Yes, theyre very sensible,
very German and can weather
nuclear winters as well as
they can emissions scandals.
But its not a brand that really
sticks its neck out. Nothing
wrong with that, only its not
terribly GQ. But the new
Tiguans a bit different. This is
the companys volume seller
the moneymaker. The old
one sold 2.6 million in eight
years, which is more than the
Land Rover Defender sold in
its entire 67-year production
lifetime. Not a car to take
risks with, then.
Thing is, VW has. For once,
it looks good. Perceptibly
sporty, showing charisma
from all perspectives. Thats
how VW designers describe
it, but we wouldnt go that
far. More like reluctant luxury.
Theres chrome where there
used to be plastic, straight
lines where there were
apologetic curves and a
furrowed brow thats neatly
sliced by daytime running
lights. The volume of the
prole metalwork makes it
faintly toyish, but serious
enough to look grown up.
And a million miles from its
competitors, the Nissan
Qashqai (insect), Hyundai
Santa Fe (overweight
greyhound) and Renault
Kadjar (swollen).
OK, so there are cars that
combine load-lugging
practicality, speed and style
to more devastating effect,
but they cost at least three
times as much and are nearly
all built by Jaguar Land
Rover. The thing is, the
Tiguan scrambles the idea
that sensible, pragmatic
carshave to look miserable,
and because VW rolled the
dice and lost the fusty curves,
its built something that
belongs in the GQ car park
asmuch as it does the Ikea
multistorey. Matt Jones From
22,510. volkswagen.co.uk
Photograph Nick Wilson
ccording to Fabian Escalante, the former

head of the Cuban secret service, there
were 638 attempts to assassinate Fidel
Castro during his years in power. On
average, that works out at 13 attempts
on his life every year. More than one a month, every
month, for 49 years. From exploding cigars and toxic
fountain pens, to poisoned milkshakes and a wet suit
lled with deadly bacteria, El Presidente survived
more dastardly death threats than The Road Runner.
But all these CIA operatives and hired hitmen
missed a simple trick. If they had really wanted
to whack Fidel, all they would have had to do is
hand him the keys to a car and let him go for a spin,
because driving in Cuba is fraught with danger. The
roads are in such a state of chaotic disrepair that
drivers stick to the outside lanes in the hope of
avoiding potholes, pedestrians and wandering
livestock. Every other vehicle on the road including
trucks and buses is at least 50 years old, poorly
maintained and unreliable. And, rather than rely on
brakes, many Cuban motorists trust the magic of the
Afro-Caribbean Santeria rituals to protect them from
accidents. (Who needs a no-claims bonus when you
have good juju?) Old Fidel would have been lucky to
make it back from the beard trimmers in one piece.
So hats off to Audi for having the courage, the
bureaucratic patience (plus palm grease) and the
vast international insurance coverage to become the
rst automotive company to launch a new car in the
country since Chevrolet rolled one out just before the
revolution. You can still nd plenty of 57 Chevys on
the streets (as well as Buicks, Cadillacs and Chryslers),
but if you really want to turn heads it seems
something a little more modern is the way to go.
The Audi Q2 is a cute and stylish mini-SUV/
subcompact crossover, the newest member of the
Q-family, and Audi is pitching it at a younger,
smarter, more urban-orientated driver. In other
words, the near-mythical

millennial. So are we talking
a safe and steady city car? Not
quite, according to exterior
designer Matthias Fink. The Q2
has a powerful, edgy, slightly
rough stance, he says. Not
exactly a track athlete; more of
a youthful, crosst-type. Its
low, very sporty and yet robust
and solid. Its for someone
fashionable and nonconformist.
Sounds like our kind of guy.
Fortunately, you dont have
to be this perfect marketing
amalgam to appreciate some
of the clever, creative and
distinctly un-conservative
Castro GTX:
design touches. Across the top
The new Q2 joins
of the doors, there are unique
pre-embargo
Yank tanks on
hexagonal concave panels
Cubas taxing
along the shoulder line that
thoroughfares
lead the eye up to the windows
and emphasise the wheel size.
There is also a long roof spoiler
and a subtle oating blade
C-pillar (in a contrasting
colour) that makes the Q2
look lower and longer than it
actually is. Its a neat trick
that calls to mind the Range
Unusually for
Rover Evoque, but improves
Audis,the Q2 will
aerodynamics and doesnt
be available in 12
colour options,
compromise visibility. At the
withplenty of
front, the new polygon face
scopefor individual
will soon be rolled out over the
customisation.
entire Q range... so they are
Options include
atwo-tone roof
obviously happy with it.
andcoloured
Inside, the Q2 has much in
dashboard inserts.
common with the A3, but offers
ENGINE
the cutting-edge connectivity
148bhp, 1.4 litre
and technological options that
PERFORMANCE
have become synonymous with
0-62mph in 8.5secs;
more expensive Audis: the
top speed, 129mph
virtual cockpit, head-up display,
PRICE
Wi-Fi hotspot, driver assistance,
Around 20,230
trafc-jam assist, B&O stereo,
CONTACT
audi.co.uk
etc. Given Cubas appalling
satellite coverage and mobile
reception, a lot of this tech is redundant in Havana, but
it is nice to know you have it even if you cant use it.
As far as the ride goes, its difcult to say how good
the Q2 is; Cuban roads are so bad youd struggle to
get comfortable on a magic carpet. But one thing is
for certain: this might be billed as an SUV, but an
off-roader it is clearly not. It does handle impeccably,
though, making it more go-kart than slow-kart and
the 1.4-litre GQ drove around the island was more
than enough for the environment. However, back in
the UK we would probably want next years 2.0-litre
all-wheel drive Quattro version just to add a little
more spice, but as a chunky and charming city car it
is hard to think of anything better.
#BeAnOriginal | originalpenguin.co.uk
The new Panamera.

Courage changes everything.
Discover more at porsche.co.uk/panamera
Ofcial fuel economy gures for the Panamera 4S in l/100km (mpg): urban 10.2 10.1 (27.7 28.0), extra urban 6.8 6.7 (41.5 42.2), combined 8.2 8.1
(34.4 34.9). CO2 emissions: 186 184 g/km. The mpg and CO2 gures quoted are sourced from ofcial EU-regulated tests, are provided for comparability
purposes and may not reect your actual driving experience.
AVAILABLE AT CANVASBYLANDSEND.CO.UK - FOLLOW US
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PAUL HENDERSON
E D I T E D BY
The RESTAURANT
The BAR
The HOTEL
The CLUB
The PUB
The RECIPE
The ROUNDUP
The BOTTLE
The BOOK
TH E S E C R E T
There are many ways to
tenderise an octopus, from
cooking it with a wine cork
to smacking it against
rocks after catching it.
Palomar recommends
freezing it for 24 hours,
then defrosting.
TH E N A M E
Photographs Helen Cathcart
Palomar takes its name

from the period of Spanish
rule in California, from the
end of the 17th to the early
19th century, and means
dovecote a birdhouse
intended for pigeons
or doves.
Four legs good,

eight legs better
Winner of the rst GQ Food & Drink Best Restaurant

award, Palomar fuses avours from Spain, Africa
and the Levant with a refreshingly light touch
small bites
THE RECIPE
Where
Papis polpo story from

The Palomar Cookbook
Plucked from the ocean and prepped to perfection,
slow-cooked octopus reaches new depths of avour
has been eating

this month...
Ingredients
O800g-1kg octopus, inside
O1 tomato, cut into quarters
cleaned (Palomar recommends

Spanish ones)
O2 small onions, cut in half
O1 tsp black peppercorns

O1 small, unwaxed orange, cut
into quarters
O2 bay leaves

O 1 sprig of thyme
O2 unwaxed lemons, cut in half
OGenerous glug of red wine
Method
OFreeze your sea creature for 24 hours,
OFor the steaks, place a double layer of
then defrost it (this will help to

tenderise it).
OPre-heat your oven to 150 degrees
(or gas mark 2). Put the octopus in
a baking tray and add the rest of
the ingredients (except the red
wine). Cover the tray with baking
parchment and then foil.
OCook the octopus for 90 minutes.
OIncrease the oven temperature to
160 degrees (or gas mark 3) and
cook for another 90 minutes. Dont
add any liquid.
OWhen you unveil the octopus, you
will see that it is swimming in its own
juices. If, however, you want an
octopus with a dark red colour, add
the red wine for the last 20 minutes
of cooking time. Take the octopus out
of the tray and leave it to cool, unless
you want to make steaks, in which
case the octopus should be warm.
clinglm on a chopping board (leaving

it attached to the roll). Separate the
tentacles from the head (discard the
inside of the head and the beak).
Place four tentacles in a row, the thick
part on your left. Slice the head and
lay the slices on top of the tentacles.
On top of this, lay the other four
tentacles, the thick part on your right.
Roll the octopus/clinglm into a tight
sausage. With each rolling motion,
squeeze the air out of the sides.
OOnce it is tightly rolled up, poke a few
holes in the clinglm with a skewer
all the air needs to be released so
the sausage will be nice and tight.
Wipe with damp kitchen paper, then
wrap with more clinglm. Chill in the
fridge overnight and cut into steaks,
then remove theclinglm.
OThe Palomar Cookbook (Mitchell
Beazley, 25) is out now.
RANDALL & AUBIN

Celebrating its 20th anniversary,
this Anglo-French brasserie still
hits all the right notes.
standout dish
Slow-roasted Aubrey Allen pork
belly, with mash and apple sauce.
14-16 Brewer Street, London W1.

020 7287 4447.
randallandaubin.com
HANGER
This hanger-steak joint reveres
the butchers cut so-called
because its too good to sell.
standout dish
Charcoal-grilled hanger streak
with spiced macncheese.
BIRTHDAYS
Dalston favourite with residencies
from up-and-coming kitchens.
standout dish
Coqghters vodka and sesame
battered Korean-style wings.
Sucker punch:
Palomars octopus
steaks are a knockout
33-35 Stoke Newington Road,

London N1. 020 7923 1680.
birthdaysdalston.com
Photographs Helen Cathcart; Jody Todd
461 North End Road, London

SW6. 020 7386 9739.
hangersteak.co.uk
TASTE
Underground
bunkers: Pitch
up at Swingers
for above-par
crazy golf
THE BAR
Swingers
Crazy golf gets an urban makeover at this
ultra-competitive nightspot, which encourages
you to drink your cocktails on the course
IF you like bowling and
drinking, there is All-Star Lanes.
If you like darts and drinking,
there is Flight Club. If you like
table tennis and drinking, there
is Bounce. But what about all those poor souls
who are bonkers about crazy golf, especially
when it comes with a cocktail, delicious food
and no kids allowed?
Now, we know what youre thinking, but yes
these people do exist and no they arent all
locked up. In fact, you can now nd them in
Swingers. Stepping into this underground bar is
like opening the back of your wardrobe onto
a Narnian summer: 1,500 sq m of bright green,
rolling hills, ceilings laden with owers and
a clubhouse plonked right in the middle.
Youd think Swingers was more about food
and drink than golf, what with ve cocktail bars
THE PUB
The Ferry Inn,

Salcombe
Push the boat

out: Estuary
views at
the Ferry Inn
bringing drinks to
wherever you are on the course
(try the mint julep) and three street-food stalls
(Le Bab, Patty & Bun, Pizza Pilgrims) serving
tables on the upstairs gin terrace. But youd be
wrong. Two nine-hole crazy golf courses ank
the clubhouse and golng advisors march
around monitoring foul play. If you draw, youll
be led off to deliver the determining play-off
shot. At Swingers, competition is erce and
heartily encouraged. Its brought to you by the
Institute Of Competitive Socialising, so what did
you expect?
With great food, killer cocktails, a DJ spinning
hip-hop and funk and an 18-plus door policy,
this really is Londons new Friday night
hotspot. No, it really is. Eleanor Halls
O8 Browns Buildings, London, EC3. 020 3846
3222. swingersldn.com
WHILE Salcombes
other pubs slug it
out with revamped
venues and updated
menus, The Ferry
Inns prime real estate and enviable
views across the Kingsbridge
estuary continue to keep it on top
of the pile. With its agstoned
terrace set right on the water and
illuminated by festoon lights long
into the evening, this three-storey
pub and restaurant is a lively place
to watch the world sail by.
Sleepy during the colder months,
The Ferry Inn comes alive during
the summer, with prosecco and
jugs of Pimms ying out of the
lower bar to sate a beer garden
populated by pastel pink-clad
tourists, yacht crews moored in the

harbour and those locals not put
off by the London-priced drinks
menu. Although the craft-beer
revolution is yet to reach Devons
southernmost town, The Ferry Inns
range of Palmers ales and ciders
taste more than adequate straight
from the beach, while highlights
from the pub menu include mussels
cooked in cider and fresh-caught
crab. Expect a ght for your table
and another to fend off seagulls
when lunch arrives, but the payoff
is a spot at the towns ritziest
setting. Ben Olsen
OFore Street, Salcombe, Devon
TQ8 8JE. 01548 844000.
theferryinnsalcombe.com
THE BOTTLE
Ao Yun 2013
A story of plucky pioneers
pushing a brave new frontier
with basic techniques is rare
for the launch of a 225 wine, but this
is exactly what Mot Hennessy has
done with Ao Yun, its new cabernet
blend from Yunnan province, China.
Were on a learning curve in the most
extraordinary of places, admits
Jean-Guillaume Prats, president of
LVMH Estates & Wines. Its a unique
part of the world.
While some Chinese vines date
back to 4000 BC: the Ao Yun
vineyards claim a modest ten years
growth, butthe expertise of chief
winemaker Maxence Dulou and the
local villagers means they have
ourished quickly at unusual altitudes
(2,600 metres).
Making a wine with no precedent,
with basic equipment (in this case,
earthenware jars used for the local
spirit baijiu rather than temperaturecontrolled vats), Delou summons
serious elegance in the 2013 vintage,
the rst year of production. It drinks
superbly, with dark berries and a hint
offresh tobacco on the nose, followed
by a generous and persistent palate.
Ithas great ageing potential because
ofthe balance between the acidity
andthe tannin structure, says Prats.
Time to make room in your cellar for
anew Chinese revolution. Amy Matthews
OAvailable at Berry Bros from early
October, 225. bbr.com
you can never have

too many nuts
100%
nuts!
Protein, energy, deliciousness: nuts have got it all. Thats why at

Meridian we go to such crazy lengths to pack as many nuts into our
nut butters as humanly possible.
meridian: nuts about nuts
TASTE
Stys the limit:

The Pigs bar
(below) and
Georgian dining
area (bottom)
THE RESTAURANT
Anglo
Patriotic dishes are the order
of the day at an elegant
eatery ying the ag
for Great British menus
THE HOTEL
The Pig At
Combe, Devon
THE term derelict
chic may hint at
a new collection from
Zoolanders latte-hurling
nemesis Mugatu, but it also serves
asthe principal design aesthetic
ofThe Folly: the grand yet gritty
centrepiece of the latest Pig outpost
in east Devon, a Grade I listed
Elizabethan manor set in 3,500
rolling acres 15 minutes from Exeter.
As bets a Pig property, the
accent is on repurposing existing
grandeur by imposing contemporary
luxe, so The Folly ts as the relaxed
outside dining hub complete with
pizza oven. And the house itself has
lost all of its chintz but none of its
charm, with freshly installed bar,
snugs large and small (all with res)
and 27 rooms that expand on the
theme each one amasterclass in
reclaimed wood, objets trouvs and
the appliance of simple luxuries to
comfy environments. You might
balkat sleeping in converted stable
the Horsebox, but dont miss the
Hayloft (above): a super-sized room
with the attributes of a classic
country-house stay (such as a
walk-in monsoon shower) but
noneof the dull formality.
In the main house, enjoy views
over the Otter Valley rst seen by
William the Conquerors half brother,
who settled the site in 1086. Either
way, The Pigs locavore credentials
are wonderfully intact, thanks to its
kitchen garden and strict 25-mile
food-gathering radius. BP
ORooms from 155 per night.
Gittisham, Honiton, Devon
EX143AD. 0345 225 9494.
thepighotel.com
WHEN the Brexiteers were busy pulling

up the drawbridge, cancelling their Polish
plumbers and telling the EU where it
could stick its EuroMillions, did they
actually stop for a moment and spare
a thought for what they would be
having for dinner? Farage didnt (we
know, Nige, eating is cheating). Boris didnt
(too busy dreaming of being PM). And Roger
Daltrey didnt (Who? Sorry, couldnt resist... ).
So thats out with the curry houses, French
bistros, Italian restaurants and sushi bars. In with
shnchips, roast beef and, er... pie and mash.
But despite what the self-righteous Remainers
would have you believe, all is not lost for this
perdious Albion. Take Anglo, for instance.
English in name and a proudly British dining
room to boot, this new restaurant just off
Londons Leather Lane is a celebration of all
things Blighty (but in a good way). Home-grown
seasonal ingredients, simple and understated
dcor, and a talented local chef-patron in
Home cooking:
Anglos burnt leek
tart (above) and
halibut with white
asparagus (left)
Mark Jarvis, who has been planning this Brit

ne-dining experience for two years.
With a short la carte menu at lunch time
featuring starters such as English asparagus with
Berkswell cheese and mains of aged Hereford beef
with ceps and a reasonably priced seven-course
tasting menu in the evening (45), the food is
beautifully elegant and impeccably avoured.
It might not be quite enough to make you proud
to be British, but it is a very good start. PH
O30 St Cross Street, London EC1. 020 7430 1503.
anglorestaurant.com
THE ROUNDUP
Prime cuts Three venues putting the bar in barber
Blade Soho
The Bike Shed
Trade Union
26 Frith Street, London W1.

bladesoho.co.uk
384 Old Street, London EC1.

thebikeshed.cc
1 Thomas More Square, London

E1. trade-union.co.uk
The setup: This tiny Soho iHair salon

has iPads stationed at each chair and
a ristretto bar with a wide selection of
coffees, teas and fresh juices. Theres
also a members-only whisky and
cocktail bar hidden in the basement.
Eat this: Space is tight, and as GM
Stroo Olofsson points out: Hair
andfood dont mix. Wise words.
Drink this: Upstairs: pomegranate
juice (3.60), freshly pressed in an
industrial contraption imported
fromIsrael. Downstairs: a smooth
glass of Rittenhouse rye (4).
The setup: What began as a sportsbike blog in 2011 was hosting pop-up
motorcycle events by 2013. The Bike
Shed has since evolved into a bar,
restaurant, gallery and barbershop for
gentleman bikers, all tucked under
railway arches in Shoreditch. Members
include Tom Hardy and Idris Elba.
Eat this: The Bike Shed burger with
celeriac and radish slaw (10.50).
Drink this: The super-manly Harley
Davidson & The Marlboro Man (8.50):
a mix of bourbon, Cointreau and
homemade tobacco syrup.
The setup: This Wapping venue

combines a smart central bar and
kitchen, a coffeehouse, a orist
andDrakes Of London barbers.
Eat this: Bushwick Pizza Co brings
Brooklyn-style sourdough pizzas to
the table (but well away from the
hair). Try the Broccolini, with
silverbeet and truffle oil (from 7).
Drink this: The vast, seasonal cocktail
menu is adventurous and gin-heavy:
the tropical Jericho (Sipsmith gin,
orange bitters and passionfruit) hits
the spot (9). Jennifer Bradly
TASTE
TASTE
THE NEIGHBOURHOOD
Bury St Edmunds
Train:
London Liverpool Street
or Kings Cross, from 40
Book ahead for weekend

evenings where you can feast
on native lobster served with
artichoke, citrus and veal
reduction sauce. Oh, and the
cheese board is larger than
some London studio ats.
Directly opposite the ruined
From top: Afternoon tea, squid with
abbey in the centre of the town,
summer greens, and a romantic
(5) The Angel Hotel (3 Angel
suite at the Angel Hotel
Hill. 01284 714000. theangel.
co.uk) has hosted luminaires
from Dickens to Angelina Jolie
over the centuries, inside its ivycovered exterior. Rooms
are huge, with cowhide easy
chairs and impossibly deep
free-standing copper baths.
The Wingspan bar in the
basement features a counter
made of half of an aircraft
engine, and the potent cocktails
include the sublime Bronx made
with gin, sweet and dry
vermouth and orange juice.
A contender for the best
Gressingham
duck breast
Sunday roast in Suffolk can be
(above) at
found underneath the antler
Bens
Restaurant
chandeliers hanging from the
(right)
ceiling of (6) Bens Restaurant
(43 Churchgate Street. 01284
Y ST E
BUR
DM
762119. bensrestaurant.co.uk).
UN
Ben Hutton has his own farm
Bury St
nearby in Ixworth and, as
Edmunds
well as his own rare-breed
Station
pigs and sheep, theres
a phalanx of local
suppliers on the
menu. You simply
1
cannot leave town
2
without gorging on
his Suffolk guinea
fowl breast and
Arc
cont leg roast with
shopping
centre
all the trimmings
3
alongside a glass of the
5
surprisingly subtle Suffolk
4
Giffords Hall Baccus wine.
6
DISCREETLY hidden behind

the front doors of two small
terraced houses, (1) Pea
Porridge (28 Cannon Street.
01284 700200. peaporridge.
co.uk) is a rustic beauty full of
reclaimed furniture. It avoids
tweeness thanks to chef Justin
Sharps Suffolk-meets-Spain
menu which is high on air.
Dont miss the starter nibbles of
fried pigs ears or a cod llet
with grilled chorizo, monks
beard and tempura cod cheeks.
Just across the street lies the
(2)Old Cannon Brewery (86
Cannon Street. 01284 768769.
oldcannonbrewery.co.uk), where
the stainless-steel vessels next to
the bar stand testament to the
local provenance of the ales
on draught. The food is far
from an afterthought, with
chef Adrian Newcombes
menu including a glutenfree ham-and-egg hash,
and an ever-changing cheese
board with sticky Suffolk pickle.
At just 7ft by 14ft (3) The
Nutshell (17 The Traverse. 01284
764867. thenutshellpub.co.uk)
is the smallest pub in Britain.
Though theres still room for a
mummied cat hanging from the
ceiling, an aeroplane propeller
and a toothsome pint of Greene
King IPA hardly surprising as
the brewery is based in town.
Bringing a touch of joie de
vivre to the towns restaurant
scene this past 18 years, (4)
Maison Bleue (30 Churchgate
Street. 01284 760623.
maisonbleue.co.uk) is Pascal
and Karine Canevets cosy
celebration of French nesse
and local ingredients, which
swerves hushed reverence in
favour of ebullient bonhomie.
Rob Crossan
Photographs Amanda Curd
Roasted duck
breast and
stuffed leg
ballotine
(below)
at Maison
Bleue
(right)
Sandwiched between bombastic Essex and bucolic Norfolk is the Suffolk

market town of Bury St Edmunds. A handsome town of thriving and cleanly
appearance, wrote Charles Dickens and 21st-century visitors will nd that
little has changed. But inside the Georgian and Victorian frontages, is an
emerging restaurant scene as creative as it is (thankfully) low-key
0m
Old Cannon
Brewery
(above) and
mini pub The
Nutshell (left)
Taxi:
Eight to ten minutes,
around 7.50
10
Slow-braised
lamb shoulder
(left) at Pea
Porridge
(above)
Time:
One hour and
40 minutes
YOUR
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GUIDE
TO
THE
WORLD
OF
WAT C H E S
2017
W
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TE
S AND J
E
NE DE
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10TH
AG
ISSUE
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AZI
ANNIVERSARY
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Live life well
Ive been taking Wellman since

my twenties to support my
health and hectic lifestyle.
David Gandy
Made in Britain
It might have been an age of imagination,

but the material remains of the Sixties
social battlegrounds still hold great value.
As a new exhibition at Londons Victoria And
Albert Museum opens this month, GQ tells
the story of the counterculture in 26 objects
STORY BY
S John Lennons
spectacles, Sixties
Lennon rst appeared
inhis granny glasses
on6 September 1966.
They became an emblem
of The Beatles, a band
that the V&As exhibition
treats as a microcosm
forthe whole decade.
Charlie Burton
Photograph Josh Redman
Nothing you
can see that
isnt shown
he phone was ringing and the

hour was unsettlingly early.
Caroline Coon picked up the
receiver. George Harrison
was on the line and he was
in trouble. It was March
1969 and Harrison had been
busted by the drugs squad.
Coon was working for the drug-user charity
Release and if the police swooped she was the
person you called for advice. The thing is, I
keep my pot in a nice little box on my sitting
room table, Harrison told Coon. Whats upsetting me is that the police searched the house
and said they had found a big lump of pot in
my wardrobe and, honestly, that wasnt there.
It was something Coon had heard many times
before. If they were busting a pop star, she
tells GQ, nearly ve decades on, they didnt
want to come away with nothing. It was such a
shock that the Great British police The best
in the world, your honour were doing that.
This was the Britain of the late Sixties. A
place where pop stars dominated the culture,
where faith in the once-revered establishment
was crumbling and where self-exploration
through drug use was opening a new
intellectual frontier. It was a time of conict,
but also explosive optimism the time of
Swinging London as a young, wealthy, postwar generation reimagined the way they lived.
The upheavals that took place over just ve
years, from 1966 to 1970, would encompass
V&A
everything from gay equality to environmentalism, civil rights to consumerism, technology

to gender roles and are still playing out today.
A new show at the Victoria And Albert
Museum, You Say You Want A Revolution,
curated by Victoria Broackes and Geoffrey
Marsh the partnership behind the David
Bowie Is exhibition attempts to decode the
diverse impulses of that period. No mean feat,
but what brings it all together are the bands.
For the Renaissance, you look at Renaissance
painters, says Broackes, but for the 20th
century, youd probably look at music and if
you want to see the absolute moment where
theyre most intertwined, its the late Sixties.
The most important group were The Beatles, the
curators argue, because they tapped into such
a breadth of countercultural notions, from the
peace movement to Eastern mysticism, LSD to
avant-garde art, and had an overwhelming following. When Sgt Pepper came out and was
bought by 2.5 million people in its rst three
months, those ideas were being taken out into
an enormously wide audience, says Broackes.
At the heart of these ideas was an emphasis
on the individual and rejection of authority and
convention. This created an enabling environment, politically. In the UK in 1965, it was illegal
to be gay, women had to be married to obtain
the pill and plays were censored by the government. Not so by 1970. And it was no accident
that the US and Britain were experiencing an
upheaval at the same time. Cheaper commercial
air travel, in particular, helped ideas move back and forth

across the Atlantic. Anti-Vietnam War protests, for
instance, took root in Europe as much as in America
and protest artwork was repurposed between causes.
A poster designed for the May 1968 Paris uprisings,
say, might be adopted by student protests at Berkeley.
The ow of information became a value in itself. It
was the idea that knowledge would make you free, says
Marsh, and sharing knowledge was better than keeping it
to yourself. This gave rise, in San Francisco, to the personal computing revolution. Technology was seen by the counterculture as a tool to
facilitate its ideals, and ongoing debates today about le sharing, for
instance, can be traced back to the internets hippie origins.
Indeed, while plenty changed legally in the Sixties, many of the
issues that the decade brought to the fore remain unresolved. Whether
its equal rights (take Black Lives Matter) or the environment (the US
still has not ratied Kyoto), the problems clearly havent been xed.
The progress that has been made, however, owes a debt to that rare
moment of utopianism that has long since zzled out. As Hunter S
Thompson described those years in Fear And Loathing In Las Vegas,
We were riding the crest of a high and beautiful wave.
Heres an exclusive preview of the V&As show.
You Say You Want a Revolution? Records And Rebels
1966-1970 opens at the Victoria And Albert Museum from
10 September to 26 February, in partnership with
Levis and Sennheiser. vam.ac.uk
S Protest
badge, Sixties
This period was all about
standing up to be counted
for a cause, such as CND.
Says co-curator Victoria
Broackes: New techniques
and lower costs meant you
could easily print your own
small runs of badges.
V&A
S Keith Moons
drums, 1966
Railing against hippie
ideology, Moon would load
his custom Lily kit with
dynamite. One particularly
powerful detonation was
blamed for ruining lead
guitarist Pete Townshends
hearing though the
bands stack of Marshall
amps is a more likely cause.
Suit by
Mr Fish, 1968
The Sixties heralded a
peacock revolution in
menswear, reintroducing the
idea of costume to everyday
dress. Michael Fish became
famous for making
amboyant shirts, before
turning his eye to other
items, selling to a loyal
following from his store on
Londons Clifford Street.
S The Rolling
Stones by Terry
ONeill, 1965
ONeill had shot The Beatles
and the Stones wanted a
piece of the action, with this
image for The Daily Sketch.
X Mick Jaggers
jumpsuit, 1972
Jagger said wearing it got
him into the performance
spirit, says Broackes, of
the suitably androgynous
Ossie Clark design.
Photographs Josh Redman
W War Is
Not Healthy
poster, 1966
When Lyndon B
Johnson ramped
upthe bombing of
Vietnam in 1965, the
antiwar movement
became socially
entrenched. Posters
such as this anticipate
the peace and love
movement of 1967,
with its emphasis on
family and the planet.
W Twiggys
minidress, 1967
W Oz cover
art,1968
After Daily Express

fashion editor Deirdre
McSharry spotted
Twiggys headshot
ona hairdressers wall,
McSharry declared
herthe face of 1966.
When the mid-Sixties
hit, and teenagedom
hit the mainstream,
they needed young
models. I was that new
look, says Twiggy.
Although this iconic

underground magazine
was most famous for
its two indecency trials,
Oz was also a locus of
considerable aesthetic
endeavour. This
artwork is by Martin
Sharp, an Australian
who also designed the
famous Bob Dylan
poster with swirly hair,
says Broackes.
7. Blow-Up, 1966
Michelangelo
Antonionis lm
abouta fashion
photographer in
Swinging London
offers a counterpoint
to the period. It raised
questions about that
life, says Broackes.
8. Roundhouse
UFO poster, 1967
This poster for the
UFO club (pronounced
yoof-oh, as in
euphoria) by Martin
Sharp is a standout
piece of Sixties graphic
design, complete with
Mick Jagger lip motif.
1. Acid Test
poster, 1965-7
Wes Wilsons design

for Ken Keseys Acid
Test LSD parties in
San Francisco invited
the likes of Allen
Ginsberg and The
Grateful Dead to bridge
the gap between
Beatniks and hippies.
2. Nasty Tales
magazine, 1971
Towards the end of

theSixties, optimism
began to fade: the
1969 Charles Manson
murders, retold in this
issue of controversial
comic Nasty Tales,
undermined the dream
of the commune.
5. Headopoly
game, 1970
Hapshash And The

Coloured Coats silks
became collectible art,
this one for a Kings
Road boutique. They
were deliberately
hardto understand,
says Hapshashs
NigelWaymouth.
Satirical board game

Headopoly was a
pullout in Richard
Nevilles book Play
Power. One square
said F*** Communism,
which led to it being
banned in Australia,
says Broackes.
4. Black Panther
poster, 1969
6. Save Earth
Now poster, 1967
There were women in

the Black Panther Party
[BPP]. They were on
the front line in many
cases, notes Emory
Douglas, the BPP
culture minister, who
drew this image for the
Partys newspaper.
Another Hapshash
creation, this time an
ecological call to arms.
Environmentalism
was linked to the Cold
War, says Waymouth.
We were conscious of
screwing up the planet
with nuclear bombs.
Photographs Josh Redman
3. Hung On You
silkscreen, 1967
V&A
W Christine
Keeler
photographs,
1963
S The Cockettes
poster,1970
George Harris of drag group The

Cockettes was the boy in that
famous photograph, putting owers
in soldiers guns, says Broackes.
S George Harrison with
Caroline Coon, 1967
This photo, taken at the offices of

Release, shows Coon celebrating
with Harrison, who had just beneted
from the drug charitys help.
The affair between

warminister John
Profumo and the
model Christine Keeler
marked the end of
anera in which the
establishment
operated as it pleased
and signicantly
dented trust in
politicians. Lewis
Morleys nude
photographs of Keeler
were intended to
promote an unrealised
lm, The Keeler Affair.
Djinn chair,
1963
Designed by Olivier
Mourgue, this chair was used
by Stanley Kubrick in 1968s
2001: A Space Odyssey. The
cover could be taken off to
be cleaned, says Broackes.
Mourgue was interested in
recycling at a time when
people thought you just
threw things away.
S Printing plate, Isle
OfWight Festival
tickets, 1969
More than 150,000 people attended

the 1969 Isle Of Wight Festival
600,000 went the following year.
S Apple I, 1976
Counterculture spawned the early
computing industry, as Steve Jobs
and others absorbed techno-utopian
notions circulated by underground
publications in the late Sixties.
V&A
Guthrie inspired the folk revival of

the Sixties. His diaries functioned
as notebooks and this page
describes the famous message on
his guitar. Serving in the merchant
marines during the Second World
War, he didnt carry a gun but
used his Gibson to boost morale
among troops on the ship.
W George
Harrisons
SgtPeppers
suit, 1966
S Roger
Daltreys
Woodstock
costume, 1969
Harrison is most
associated with
therise of Eastern
mysticism. India is a
many armed goddess,
says his widow, Olivia.
Its the music and
philosophy and the
taste and the colours.
[With George] it had
to be all or nothing.
The Whos stage shows

are most associated
with smashed-up
guitars. But this
wasnot an act of
mindless violence,
says Broackes. It was
inuenced by exposure
to the radical ideas of
the destruction in art
movement.
S Harley-Davidson model, Sixties

Made by a Hells Angel member incarcerated at San Quentin
prison, this Harley represented an alternative lifestyle that came
to the fore in the decade. The Angels were connected to bands
such as The Rolling Stones, for whom they notoriously provided
security at 1969s Altamont Speedway Free Festival.
Photographs Woody Guthrie Publications; Josh Redman
Woody Guthries
diary, 1944
aving made a name for itself

in automotive style, Fiat has
risen to the challenge once
again with the new 500S.
Rather than taking a step
back to pure retro, the Fiat 500S has raced
forwards with a classic sport feel. The rear
spoiler adds a racing slant and the sport
bumpers set the 500S apart from the rest
of the range. Similarly, the side skirts and
bumpers help airow, ensuring more
comfort and, crucially, a more exhilarating
driving experience.
Inside the Fiat 500S, the 7in Uconnect
touchscreen will take charge of your
entertainment, working with the multimedia
devices in the car. On the dashboard, the
7in-TFT digital instrument display gives a
clear view of everything you need to know.
Once switched to Sport, the throttle-response
time is shortened and that TFT display reveals
a turbo-boost meter, as well as braking,
turning and acceleration g-force stats.*
Its smart, too: the Fiat 500S comes with
Fiats eco:Drive, which is designed to help
you save on fuel, as the cars CO2 emissions
can be checked in real-time. So, isnt it time
you stepped up with the Fiat 500S?
Sm
Italian icoarter, sportier, fas
te
n hitting
new heig r: the all-new Fia
hts in sty
t
le and pe500S is an
rformanc
e
G Partnership
FEATURES AS
STANDARD
ENGINE
0.9L TwinAir engine
105bhp, 5,500rpm
PERFORMANCE
0-62mph in 10 seconds
Top speed: 117mph
PRICE
Range starts
at 12,905
*Sport mode is only
available with the 0.9
TwinAir 105bhp engine
at.co.uk
Photograph
Wilson Hennesy
Hair and Makeup
Michael Gray at David
Artists, Using Sisley &
Bumble & Bumble
Models
Chris Peck at Models 1
TIGEROFSWEDEN.COM
F L A G S H I P S T O R E , 2 1 0 P I C C A D I L LY,
LONDON W1J 9HL
HOW WE LIVE
PORTRAIT BY
Mike Blackett
The guardian of the GQ galaxy reveals the building blocks of

life, from American satire to suits, via Vonnegut and the V&A
This month: GEORGE CHESTERTON, Chief Sub-Editor, GQ

GEAR
STIMULATION
To read: Global Crisis by
Geoffrey Parker (left)
To read again: Breakfast Of
Championsby Kurt Vonnegut
To listen to: The Trials Of Van Occupanther
byMidlake; Ambient 2: The Plateau Of
Mirror byBrian Eno and Harold Budd;
3+3 by The Isley Brothers
To drink: Boodles Gin (above); Picpoul de Pinet
To eat: The Wolseley (below); Lahore Grill London, E1
Bar: The Society Club, W1; The Palm Tree, E3
Magazines: Private Eye; History Today; Prospect
Galleries: The Frick Collection, New York;
V&A (pictured)
View: From Praa Sands, Cornwall
Locations: Venice; Ely Cathedral
To follow on Twitter:
@MichaelPDeacon
Gadgets: Apple TV;

PlayStation 4
Writing: MacBook Pro
Phone: iPhone 6 (below)
Apps: iPlayer Radio; Profanisaurus
Watch: Waterbury Chronograph
byTimex (below)
Cooking: Copper saut pan by Falk
Speakers: PLAY:3 by Sonos (right)
Kitchen gadget: SD-ZB2502BXC
Breadmaker by Panasonic
Headphones: ATH-CKR10
by Audio-Technica
(above)
Photographs Jody Todd
STYLE
AND GROOMING
Suit: Hugo Boss (pictured)
Wallet: Card holder by Aspinal
Of London (above)
Sunglasses: Cockpit by Ray-Ban
Jacket: John Lewis (right)
Skincare: Facial Fuel by Kiehls (right)
Shoes: Brogues by Joseph Cheaney
& Sons (pictured)
Fragrance: Grey Vetiver eau de
toilette by Tom Ford (right)
Trainers: Spezial by Adidas
Originals (below)
CULTURE
On the nightstand:
Yeah Yeah Yeah by Bob
Stanley; Museum Without
WallsbyJonathan Meades
On the stereo: Currents
byTame Impala (above); 3+3
Theatre: The Marriage Of Figaro
atthe Royal Opera House
Art: Something Going On Above
My Headby Oswaldo Maci
Podcast: Hawksbee And Jacobs Daily
TV: Real Time With Bill Maher (above);
Ben&HollysLittle Kingdom
Films: Ikiru; The Odd Couple (right)
Looking forward to:
StarWars:Episode VIII
LAST MAN STANDING

SLUG
A fathers death
is the ultimate
test of manhood
The funeral of the man who made you will bind you in unspoken grief. But while
theres still a place for stoicism, accepting the pain of loss will help you grow
ow will you play it at your fathers
funeral? I went for impassive stoicism and it seemed to go quite
well. While all around me the
many people who loved my
father were coming apart, I kept it together,
calm and controlled and resolutely dry-eyed
as I watched them lower his cofn into his
nal resting place. I had loved him as much as
it is possible for any son to love their father
he was my hero as well as my dad, although I
would not dream of describing us as friends
but I watched his burial without even a lump
in my throat.
Its what the old man would have wanted.
For what good would it have done him, or my
mother, or me, or anyone, if I had expressed
my true emotions at his graveside? If I had
cried the way I cried behind locked doors when
I knew the end was coming for him, and that
there was nothing left of his life except a few
more miserable days of morphine-fogged pain,
it would have made a black time even worse.
The free expression of your deepest emotions
does not necessarily make the world a more
wonderful place. Sometimes manly control
is the order of the day. And that is the public
face I wore to my fathers funeral, a day when
my heart was hurting like I never knew it
could hurt.
The emotional emancipation of men is all
At the age of 12, Prince Harry walked behind
his mothers funeral cortege from Kensington

Palace to Westminster Abbey. It is the most
searing image of that day in 1997 the tiny boy,
My dad was my hero

but I watched his
burial without even
alump in my throat
numb with grief, slowly walking through the

silent, crowded London streets with his father,
Prince Charles, his paternal grandfather, Prince
Philip, his maternal uncle, Earl Spencer, and his
big brother, Prince William.
In a country that had gone wild with very
un-British grief after the sudden death of
Diana, here was the ultimate expression of
classic British fortitude. When Dianas sons
had every reason to fall apart at the savage
unfairness of their fate, they were in control
of emotions that must have been overwhelming. Yes, Dianas young sons were clearly
shocked with grief, numbed by it, stunned
by it. But the watching millions saw two boys
who would not permit their grief to make them
fall to pieces. Somehow the sight of these two
newly bereaved children not crying had far
more emotional impact than if they had wept.
It was almost as if tears would not be enough
to express their sorrow.
As it happens, I reported on Dianas funeral,
and from my spot in Westminster Abbey
the press had been seated so that we looked
at the backs of the Spencer clan but directly
at the faces of the Royal Family I saw what
the cameras did not show, and that was two
young boys who sobbed their hearts out when
the world was not watching. Even the hearts
of hardened Fleet Street veterans went out to
William and Harry at that moment.
Illustration Sam Kerr
very well, and yet, even now, there is a place

for self-control, strength and presenting to the
world a stoical demeanour, even when your life
is coming apart especially when your life is
coming apart.
Men have a genius for bottling up our emotions. In our time, this has been presented as a
negative aspect of male behaviour. But manly
restraint still has a place in our lives and I
suspect that it always will. Because being too
aware of your feelings is dangerous and being
unable to rein in the wilder shores of emotion
is absolutely terrifying.
What are we afraid of? That is easy. My
fathers funeral was almost 30 years ago and
I can vividly remember what scared me as I
stood at his graveside: that if I started crying,
I might never be able stop.
LAST MAN STANDING

You see, there is a downside to putting a
cork in our emotions. Hosting an event for
the mental health charity Heads Together
this summer, Harry spoke of his regret at not
being able to talk about his mothers death
until three years ago. Think about it Harry
will be 32 this month, which means he went
from the age of 12 to almost 30 without being
able to talk about the most tragic event of
his life.
I really regret not ever talking about
it, Harry told Rio Ferdinand, whose wife,
Rebecca, died from cancer last year.
And here is the terrible downside of male
restraint. We bury our grief so deep that
in the end we cant even admit it is there.
There is much to be said for the vastly
underrated manly virtues of courage, stoicism and toughness physical, mental and
emotional toughness. These qualities do not
get the respect they warrant and we would
be fools to dismiss them as out of time. And
yet we men take them to absurd, selfharming lengths.
There is nothing wrong with being strong.
But there is everything wrong with denying a
heart that is breaking.
learned to hide my feelings from a

master. My father was a virtuoso at
hiding his emotions. He had neglected
to mention to anyone that he was dying
of lung cancer. He must have known for
a year there was a malignant tumour inside
him that was going to kill him. The symptoms
breathlessness, unexplained pain, an ashen
quality to his skin were there for a while.
But the rst his family knew of it was when
he collapsed at work and was rushed into hospital. And we my mother and I still didnt
get it. The doctors had to spell it out to us
because my father never would. Lung cancer,
they said. Terminal. Three weeks later we
buried him.
And through it all, he never shed a tear.
His grief must have been unbearable. He
was 62, looking forward to a few more years
of working and then all the precious stuff
we assume will never be taken away from
us growing old with the wife he had been
with since they were teenagers, watching his
grandson grow up, seeing me put my life back
together after my drug-soaked, divorce-ridden,
turbulent early and mid twenties. He wanted
more life! And how it must claw at your heart
to know that you are never going to get it,
how hard it must be to be told that you have

had your time.
When I learned he was dying I crawled
to my room like a wounded animal and sobbed
my heart out. The noise scared the life out
of our Finnish au pair. But after that private
expression of grief, I knew that I had to be in
control of my emotions. If I had cried like that
by my dads hospital bed or at his graveside
then everyone my father, my mother, my
aunts and uncles, my old mans Royal Naval
Commando mates would have been appalled.
There is a place for torrents of tears. And it is
always alone.
But this ability to hide our emotions makes
us men just like my father a man who
somehow kept terminal cancer a secret from
his family. How did he get away with it? In the
30 years since his death, I have thought about
it constantly. I would like to believe that he was
trying to protect his loved ones from a long,
drawn-out battle that he knew he would never
win. But I dont think thats true.
I wish that we my
father, me, all men
had the language
todiscuss grief
I think he simply did not have the words to
express his fear, his sadness and his grief at
having to say goodbye to the family he loved.
Like Harrys inability to talk about his
mothers death, the idea of my father confronting his unbearable sorrow was unthinkable.
Because my dad was afraid this scarred old
soldier, who I believed was afraid of nothing
afraid that the sadness would overpower him.
The manly virtues are to be cherished. And
yet we men take them to absurd lengths.
It is patently wrong that a 12-year-old boy
who has lost his mother feels unable to talk
about her death until he is almost 30, just as
its nuts that a son who loves his father thinks
the really important thing about a funeral is
getting through it without crying.
And it is absurd that a man whose life
revolves around his family feels incapable of
telling them that he is dying of cancer. Sorry,
dad its mad.
Every man should be wary of emotional
ination. If you cry at a disappointing sporting
event, then what do you do when you mother
dies? Its important just for your survival

to not fall apart too easily. There are harder
knocks waiting down the line than you can
ever imagine. Save your tears for them.
I am glad that I never saw my father cry. I
am proud he taught me how to be a man. He
knew that I loved him but the last thing he
would have wanted was me blubbing all over
his deathbed to prove it. There is a degree of
selshness in total emotional emancipation
as though it is only your strong feelings and
the indulgent expression of them that matter.
Our emotions have an impact on those we love.
Sometimes they prefer it if we put a cork in
them. Emotional reticence is never out of style.
But I cant hide from the fact that I wish,
with all my heart, that my dad had been able
to nd the words to tell me he was dying of
cancer. I wish that we my old man, me, all
men had the language to discuss grief.
We could have talked. We could have spent
time together. We could have gone to the
pub. We wouldnt have had to talk about the
cancer if he didnt want to, and if there were
no words. But I wish he had told me he was
dying, so that I could have helped him carry
the burden of his grief. There are things I
wanted to know about his childhood, about
his experiences in the war, about how he felt
when we cancelled emigrating to Australia
seven days before we were due to go because
my mum could not, in the end, leave her mum
(she told us through her tears, totally in touch
with her female feelings).
And I wish that I was enough of a man to
have shed a tear at his funeral and not stood
there in a self-inicted emotional coma, scared
witless of losing control in front of all those
people. I made no public admission of how
much I was going to miss him and doing so
would have been far healthier than watching
his funeral rites as though they meant no more
to me than a parking ticket.
Men do not feel loss, bereavement and liferending grief any less than women. We are just
incapable of showing it.
I am every inch my fathers son and I will
believe until the day I die that there is nothing
wrong with a man attempting to be strong. But
we urgently need to nd new ways of expressing grief. Because refusing to admit our grief
exists does not feel like an adequate way to
cope with a heart that is breaking. Control is
to be admired. But throttling our deepest feelings does not make us strong.
It makes us emotionally illiterate.
Sirpa Air - Rafale - Dassault Aviation
BR 03 AEROGT CHRONOGRAPH Bell&RossUK:+44(0) 2076 291 558 Boutique: Units 48 - 49 Burlington Arcade - W1J 0QJ - London e-Boutique:www.bellross.com
IN THICKNESS
AND IN HEALTH
Specially formulated to help reduce and prevent hair loss, Alpecin Caffeine
Shampoo supports your hair, making it look thicker and stronger
Grooming Jody Taylor at Premier using Taylored London

Model Tom Webb at Nevs Models
G Partnership
First thing in the morning your hair is

crying out for a caffeine hit just as
much as the rest of you. Daily use of
Alpecin Caffeine Shampoo can reduce
and prevent hair loss thanks to its
specially formulated Caffeine Complex,
which acts in two minutes from
application to rinse. Its also designed
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can improve after only a few washes.
Changing to Alpecin Caffeine Shampoo
before your hair thins out means it can
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THE FORD MOTOR COMPANY PRESENTS
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E D I T E D BY
BILL PRINCE
Take a trip to Scandinavias designer

destination. GQ samples Stockholms
best spa, bar and caviar to reveal
Swedens capital of contrasts
LAID-BACK but efcient, stylish but uninhibited, Stockholm
is the epitome of understated cool. And with Nordic cuisine
ever more popular, the time is ripe to go and sample the best
reindeer carpaccio and all. Throw in a proper Swedish
massage, a population of natural blondes and a trip to the
Abba museum and you have yourself one hell of a city break.
Heres how to eat well, rest up and party hard Scandi style.
WHERE TO STAY: Its the lounge that clinches it for
Stockholms Nobis design hotel. That and a near perfect
central location around one of the citys most show-stopping
squares. But really its all about the lounges combination of
contemporary, minimalistic furniture, particularly in contrast
to the historic faade of this 19th-century building. And dont
miss the adjoining Gold Bar, the yin to the lounges yang with
low lighting and dark, sultry interiors. The Scandinavian design runs through each of the hotels
201 rooms, until you get to the grander suites, that is. Then it is all dramatic, architectural
four-poster beds, ornate wood panelling and statement full-wall mirrors. nobishotel.se
Take Stock
(below, from top):
Steak tartar at
Niklas; enter the
Blofeld-approved
Grand Hotel spa
EAT LIKE A NORDIC NATIVE: Hit Niklas (niklas.se) for a modern take on traditional
dishes, including Swedish pulled pork, reindeer carpaccio and blackened Arctic char with
cloudberries. If you can get a table at Nosh And Chow (noshandchow.se/en) dont miss the local caviar
with pickled red onion and the venison cutlet with game sausage. And for the ultimate snaps and
smorgasbord experience, the spread at the Grand Hotel (grandhotel.se/en) must be seen to be believed.
SCRUB UP SCANDI STYLE: Speaking of the Grand Hotel, the spa here should not be
dismissed as a girly retreat. With a sunken UV-ltered and sand-puried pool surrounded
by ames it feels like walking into a Bond villains lair. Add in the freezing plunge pools and a
traditional, wince-worthy Swedish massage for some souped-up, masculine serenity. If you would
rather take it a little easier, sign up to the Nordic spa experience, where you will be presented with
everything you need, including a glass of vintage champagne and a chocolate trufe. Manly.
Court of appeal
(above, from top):
Expectantly
Scandi design
prevails in the
Nobis hotel
lounge; get past
the doormen for
a Nordic night
out at Riche
Photographs Niklas Alexandersson;

Louise Billgert
FIX UP, LOOK SHARP: Nightlife in Stockholm is a serious business. Relaxed, yes, but when
the Swedes go out, they go big. East (east.se), Riche (riche.se) and Judit & Bertil (juditbertil.se)
are all popular spots. But if you want to t in (and the doormen here are tough) theres a denite
look to keep in mind. Go out in the winter and you will be hard pushed to nd anyone wearing bright
clothes, as the locals embrace a uniform of black, grey and shades thereof. In the summer, beiges and
whites are added in to the mix. But neutral tones, and an androgynous look
for the girls, tend to dominate in the Stockholm style stakes.
ISLAND HOPPING: Made up of ve islands, Stockholms districts are
easy to identify not least because you have to cross bridges to get
from one to the other. The Old Town is worth a wander for its cobbled streets
and traditional coffee shops, boasting an array of sweet treats including the
iconic cardamom bun. Then there is the island of Djurgarden, home to many
of the citys cultural spots. If your instincts tell you to avoid the Abba Museum
(abbathemuseum.com/en) ignore them; its worth it. And if youre troubled
by how much you enjoyed it, stop off to see the incredible wreck of the
17th-century ship Vasa on the way back (vasamuseet.se/en). Emily Wright
Swede tooth:
Take a table at
Nosh And Chow
and sample the
local caviar
TRAVEL
CitizenM makes a stand

against Airbnb with a
new London opening
built around city-hopping
DONT call it the great Airbnb strike-back, but
former menswear buyer turned hotelier Robin
Chadha has clearly hit on something with his
CitizenM chain of affordable hotels. Starting
with Amsterdam (opened in 2008, before the
great logon-for-cheap-lodgings really got
underway) the CitizenM brand has gone on to colonise
Glasgow, New York, Paris, Rotterdam and now London to
the tune of two (soon to be three) properties, the second
of which opens at Tower Hill this month, on the opposing
shoreline to its Bankside debut. Majoring in simple solutions
to time-honoured travel problems ease of check-in (you do
it yourself), clean, safe rooms without complicated categories
(all 370 are the same, down to dimensions and amenities)
and reliable food offers (drop-in coffee shop and canteen
where guests can graze or gourmandise according to their
appetite or budget). True, theres minimal full-time staff (this
one will have just seven ambassadors charged with solving
guest issues directly) and even housekeeping is outsourced.
But Chadhas brought art into the equation, including a new
site-specic Julian Opie, and partnered with Vitra to create
uncommonly stylish communal areas.
Theres also a strong workspace vibe, with multiple
meeting rooms available to hire (nonresidents welcome).
Chada is clear in his approach and commanding in his
overview of 21st-century travel. Airbnb is ne for longer
stays and group travel, he notes, but if youre moving around
and needless amenities dont meet the value proposition
required, then CitizenM could well be the answer.
CitizenM Tower Of London, 40 Trinity Square, EC3. Rooms
start at 109 and capped at 269 this month. citizenm.com
Height of creativity:
CitizenM partnered with
Vitra, who furnished the
new hotels top-oor bar,
and artist Julian Opie,
whose work is displayed
in the lobby (inset)
GOOSE BARNACLE
MARTIN GREENFIELD
HEATONIST
WOODEN SLEEPERS
LILIA
At this Brooklyn Heights

favourite, owner David
Alperin stocks wearable
essentials from acclaimed
brands Soulland jackets,
button-downs by Etude
Studio, Svensson jeans and
a selection of art thats also
available to purchase.
goosebarnacle.com
Decades before Bushwick

became known for its graffiti
art and Robertas worththe-wait pizza, tailor Martin
Greeneld was making
bespoke suits for Americas
most powerful men, including
presidents. Its Savile Row
calibre, with prices to match.
greeneldclothiers.com
Located in the heart of

Williamsburg, the speciality
here is a hand-picked,
extensive array of hot sauces,
from mild to tongue-numbing,
mostly by small-batch brands.
To navigate the selection, a
so-called hot sauce sommelier
is always on hand with advice
and tastings. heatonist.com
Nestled among the appealing

boutiques on Red Hooks
VanBrunt Street, Wooden
Sleepers carries distinctly
American vintagewear in
impeccable condition. Its
open Tuesday through
Sunday, but stylists ock
hereduring the week.
wooden-sleepers.com
Michelin-starred chef Missy

Robbins opened this alwayspacked Italian restaurant in
aformer car repair shop in
Williamsburg earlier this
year.During the day, a cosy
nook serves perfectly drawn
espressos and focaccia-built
sandwiches to eat in or
takeaway.
lilianewyork.com
Insider Brooklyn: A Curated Guide To New York Citys Most Stylish Borough by Rachel Felder (Harper Design, 17.99) is out now.
Photographs Instagram/@goosebarnacle/@heritage_heatonist/
@lilianewyork/@martin_greeneld/@woodensleepers
Rachel Felder has compiled a list of 200 places to visit in BROOKLYN. Here, her favourite five...
LIVE DATES
Drambuie returns
with Brass & Crimson
for the second year running.
Manchester 21 September
London 6&7 October
nts.live/shows/
drambuie-presents
THE
SOUL PLAYS
Finding a shared inspiration in jazz, Drambuie brings
together some of the most exciting and forward-thinking
artists in the Brass & Crimson tour
PHOTOGRAPH BY
Matt Holyoak
G Partnership
Soweto Kinch at
The Brass & Crimson
sessions, the
Edinburgh Jazz &
Blues Festival
lessed with long traditions

winding through history, adding
inspiration and avour to
everything they meet, Drambuie
and jazz are natural partners.
Brass & Crimson is the perfect collaboration
a tour showcasing the best international
artists who share the same love of vibrant
fusion and soulful swagger; all reference jazz
in some form, but across a huge range of
styles and genres.
The tour began this summer with a
rapturous show at Edinburghs Jazz Bar with
Soweto Kinch, a musical trailblazer on both
sides of the Atlantic, with Mobo awards and
Mercury nominations in his effervescent
wake. Kinch shared the Brass & Crimson stage
with cutting-edge talent, Bradford songwriter
Laura Groves, drawing on folk and pop
inuences to suffuse her tunes with soul, and
Brass Gumbo, getting the crowd moving with
funk favourites in their New Orleans style.
Crossing the globe musically, Brass &
Crimson will give you a chance to hear some
of the music thatll dene your 2017. You can
expect to hear the self-assured soulful slow
jams of Ontarios Jessy Lanza and the
south-London-via-Sierra-Leone pianist Duval
Timothy. Support comes from two NTS Radio
favourites: Moxie, a DJ equally capable of
joining the dots between house to techno as
grime to disco, together with the irrepressible
Charlie Bones, the DJ and breakfast host
Raising the bar:

Laura Groves (Top)
at The Brass & Crimson
sessions, Edinburgh
Jazz & Blues Festival.
The Drambuie Fresco
behind the Do!! You!!! show. With gigs

throughout September and October,
including a showcase in London Cocktail
week, this is a chance to hear what the
future of jazz sounds like.
The eternal question remains: how does
one go about creating a classic? Think of
timeless jazz LPs such as Kind Of Blue or
modern classics such as To Pimp A Buttery
its an equation of the nest raw materials
crafted in the hands of true artists. The
bartenders of Sixties Manhattans legendary
21 Club did the same with Drambuie,
serving it up in the Rusty Nail. Walk into
any of the worlds best cocktail bars tonight
and theyll do the rest. In world-class bars
from London to New York, you can expect
either a new interpretation by a creative
bartender, or a classic cocktail in its original,
timeless form.
Drambuie is a drink thats full of surprises,
with unexpected depth of avour. Its blend
of Scotch whisky, heather honey and spices
lends itself to unexpected experiences this
autumn. Drambuie sits alongside these
world-class talents as naturally as it once did
the Rat Pack, providing a warm and nuanced
accompaniment in the Rusty Nail, or in a
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GOING,GOI
More than 80 staff

took redundancy.
Others walked out.
The departures
board was a roll call
of the biggest names
in the business
SOTHEBYS
NG,GONE?
After three centuries spent
rising to the challenges of
history, art and its rivals,
venerable auction house
Sothebys is facing mass
walkouts and a plummeting
share price. Is Daniel Loeb
new board member and
predatory Wall Street
hedge-funder about to sell
short his investment and
bring down the hammer
on an ancient institution?
STORY BY
Simon Usborne
n the early Eighties, an aspiring

nancier in New York stopped in his
tracks in front of a 382-year-old oil
painting at the Met. Daniel Loeb, a
surfer and schoolyard entrepreneur
from Santa Monica, had come to
Manhattan to study economics at
Columbia University. On a whim, he
had taken an art class on the side.
He remembers gawping at The
Abduction Of The Sabine Women, the Nicolas
Poussin painting in which Romulus orders his
men to abduct women in the pursuit of empire.
Soon the work came up in class. I put up
my hand and said, Thats Poussin. I know this
painting, Loeb told a group of students in
2009. The depiction of the founding of Rome
shows Romulus in red robes, calmly overseeing an act of brutality of his own making.
And all the prep-school kids were like, What
a jerk. I was excited that I knew this thing,
but they all knew so much more than I did.
Anyway, I got one of two As in that class, and
all the snotty prep-school kids didnt.
If the painting that inspired him came up
for auction today, Loeb who stayed in New
Photographs Alamy; Getty Images
Indelible Mark (left):

ARothko from the
private collection
offormer Sothebys
owner A Alfred
Taubman, which
sold for $20.4m
on4 November
2015; (right) the
auction houses
NewYork outpost
York after graduating to become a billionaire

hedge-fund manager and art collector on the
side could easily stick up his hand and buy
it. Yet the 54-year-old favours contemporary
pieces, by Warhol, Basquiat or Koons. In 2009,
he sold the 7ft Jeff Koons Baroque Egg With
Bow for $5.4 million at Sothebys. The buyer
was Larry Gagosian, the Manhattan dealer
from whose gallery Loeb had bought the same
piece ve years earlier for an estimated $3m.
But merely buying art was to prove not
enough for Loeb, whose personal wealth
Forbes estimates at $2.7 billion (at Third Point,
the hedge fund he founded and named after a
Malibu surf break, he manages over $16bn).
In 2013, he successfully bought a controlling
chunk of Sothebys itself. In an audacious

attack, he bombed his way into the boardroom
with a letter of mass destruction. These
humiliating paper missiles, typically targeted
at struggling chief executives, have become
his stock in trade, earning him a battalion of
enemies that includes George Clooney and a
string of slain CEOs.
But there has been major blowback at
Sothebys, which Loeb described in his letter
as an old master painting in desperate need
of restoration. Since he began his corporate
shakedown in an attempt to raise the value of
his shares, the auction house has been beset
by declining sales, a shaky bottom line, bitter
division and a desertion of big names, and
n 11 March 1744, a book dealer

in a powdered wig sold several
hundred scarce and valuable books
in all branches of polite literature
for his client, an ageing baronet.
Samuel Baker made 826 in the rst recorded
auction at what would become Sothebys.
Twenty-two years later, a charismatic former
naval ofcer sold a large quantity of Madeira
and high Flavourd Claret, late of the property
of noble personage (Deceasd) from his house
on Pall Mall. His name was James Christie.
For the rst 200 years or so, Sothebys and
Christies grew in happy coexistence. They
served the wealthy and the constant demands
of debt, death and divorce. Expanding salerooms became a xture in high society, but it
wasnt until the Fifties that Sothebys turned
selling into theatre and triggered a corporate
war. In 1958, the visionary new chairman Peter
Wilson hosted the rst black-tie evening sale.
Crowds lined up along New Bond Street to
catch glimpses of Dame Margot Fonteyn and
Kirk Douglas at the auction of works belonging to Erwin Goldschmidt, a racing driver and
banking heir.
The dappled light of impressionism is
caught in the glitter of the jewellery worn
by its new worshippers, the historian and
Sothebys board member Philip Hook wrote
of the sale in his book The Ultimate Trophy.
Everyone goes home elevated by contact with
the mysteries of great art, but they are also
energised by their proximity to huge nancial
transactions. Three Manets, two Czannes, a
Van Gogh and a Renoir sold for 781,000, a
record for a single sale. Wilson had shown how
art, aspiration and celebrity could combine to
lift prices and prots to heady new levels.
Yet for the rest of the 20th century the duelling companies still relied on old money. Two
per cent of clients drove 98 per cent of business, it was said. They belonged in Burkes
Peerage or came from European nobility and
so did the companies boards. Although Greek
shipping magnates sailed into the fray the old
two per cent wanted to deal in the 18th- and
19th-century treasures that had created them.
But the business has changed. Now its
Russian, Chinese and Middle Eastern new
money, says Edward Dolman, a Christies
porter in the early Eighties who rose through
Self preservation: Sothebys Damien Hirst
salestill holds the record for a single-artist
auction, Daily Mail, 16 September 2008
Management feasted
and imbibed at a
cost to shareholders
of hundreds of
thousands of dollars
the ranks to become its chief executive and

chairman. He now runs Phillips, the stalwart
challenger to the Sothebys-Christies duopoly.
Its hedge-fund guys and internet entrepreneurs and they have different aspirations.
In 2004, Oliver Barker, a slick young art
specialist, noticed something from the 94 bus
that would forever alter his industry Damien
Hirsts Notting Hill Pharmacy restaurant was
closing. He persuaded the artist to sell its contents with Sothebys, where he was part of
a edgling contemporary art department. A
pair of Martini glasses with an estimate of 70
sold for almost 5,000; by the end of the night
11m had changed hands, almost four times
expectations. The sale helped set the tone in
an era of extraordinary prices.
By 2007 there was this unbelievable gold
rush, says Marion Maneker, the respected
analyst at the blog Art Market Monitor. The
Russians were buying every Renoir ever made.
Hirst exploded. People were picking up art with
both arms as fast as they could.
The sale also helped Sothebys form a relationship with Hirst that led to an auction as pivotal
in the new era as the Goldschmidt sale had been
50 years earlier. At the end of a long summer in
September 2008, the gavel at Sothebys Mayfair
saleroom smoked after a two-day frenzy. This
time, Hirst sold a gold-hooved calf in formaldehyde for 10.3m. A tiger shark fetched almost
as much. The total haul for the sale, called
Beautiful Inside My Head Forever, was 111m
a record for a single-artist auction.
It was a major coup for Sothebys and a
sucker punch to its arch-rival. Francois Pinault,
the French luxury-goods tycoon and owner of
Christies, was furious about being outwitted.
He let it be known to management. It was all
you heard about in the pubs on King Street that
week, a source close to the sale says, referring
to Christies St Jamess address. All the top contemporary art specialists at Christies were told,
That sale should have been ours now were
going to take over this market.
However, as new money ew across the saleroom that opening night, Lehman Brothers was
in free fall, having led for bankruptcy on the
same day, 15 September. The nancial crisis had
begun, and while many at the top of the industry expected the lights to go out, the opposite
occurred. There was turmoil at rst, but months
later, under the wrought iron and glass of the
Grand Palais in Paris in February 2009, the
private collection of the late fashion designer
Yves Saint Laurent sold at Christies for 374m
(then 333m), 100m more than had been
expected. A Matisse went for a record 36m.
The consignment was an auctioneers dream,
but the huge sums revealed something else.
In the depths of a nancial crisis, this was the
rst real conrmation that the very wealthy
were viewing art as an asset, an alternative
Photographs John Frost Newspapers; Reuters
at a time of economic uncertainty, it is struggling to adapt to changing tastes and markets.

Loeb, a man infamous for his scorched
earth approach, is now in emergency rebuilding mode. In July, he convened a meeting of
senior staff that was without precedent in the
auction houses 272-year history: Tad Smith, the
51-year-old American chief executive installed
after Loebs attack, began proceedings in Monte
Carlo, where Sothebys was opening a Francis
Bacon exhibition. Smith, who has the smile
and salary of a primetime anchorman, held
court among his team at the Nikki Beach club.
Champagne owed and collars were loosened
as superyachts twinkled off the Cte dAzur.
The next morning, the team boarded helicopters and jets bound for Scotland. At the
five-star Gleneagles Hotel, where the best
suites cost more than 1,500 a night, they
played golf and shot clay pigeons. The men
wore made-to-measure kilts; the women wore
tartan sashes. It was a time to bond, but the
guest list revealed more was at stake than
18 holes. Smith joined his new chairman,
Domenico De Sole, the Italian former president and CEO of Gucci Group. De Soles deputy
chairman, the Duke of Devonshire, travelled
from Chatsworth, his Derbyshire estate.
And then Loeb landed. He took his position alongside Smith at a choreographed
Q&A session. According to several people
familiar with the trip, the chiselled American
newcomers to this august company, which
itself is older than the United States, had
come to Scotland with an urgent purpose to
unite and rally an institution in extremis. The
question on many lips: was a destructive billionaire from Wall Street on course to rebuild
the Sothebys empire or wreck it?
SOTHEBYS
currency, Maneker says. Proof came a year
later when the Brazilian socialite Lily Safra
bought LHomme Qui Marche I, the 1961
Giacometti sculpture, for $104m, more than
four times its estimate. Then, Christies sold
Picassos Nude, Green Leaves And Bust
for $106.5m, a record for the artist. Roman
Abramovich and at least two US hedge funders
were rumoured to have joined the bidding.
Emboldened by the sales, and protected
by Pinaults riches and the relative freedom
of private status (as a public company,
Sothebys is more open to scrutiny), Christies
marched ahead. But it was building a Potemkin
Village, where headline-grabbing sales concealed precarious nances. Since the early
Seventies, auction houses have competed for
consignments by offering higher guarantees. If
a painting has a guarantee of 100,000, calculated according to its estimated value, but sells
for 90,000, the house pays the seller the difference. Great for the seller, but costly for the
auctioneer. So the house often shares the risk
with a third party, who places an irrevocable
bid, in this scenario, of 100,000. If bidding
stops below that amount, the third party
typically a wealthy collector or investor buys
the painting. If it sells for more, the third party
gets a cut of the prot. That cut, and the huge
costs of marketing and staging auctions, can
leave precious little prot for the auction house
or none at all.
In 2014, the departure of Christies CEO,
Steve Murphy, who had arrived as an industry outsider in 2010 as the companys rst
American boss, shocked the trade. He paid the
price for a perilous business model and faltering attempts to make online auctions work.
But in one respect the assault had worked.
Christies was crushing its rival, particularly in
the booming contemporary and Asian markets.
In 2013, Christies outsold Sothebys by $200m
in the spring contemporary sales. The pressure
on Sothebys veteran 60-year-old CEO, William
Ruprecht, a former furniture makers apprentice, was intense. Something had to give and
soon a bloody corporate battle would begin.
former colleague of Daniel Loeb
describes him as a destructive child. He makes money
by smashing his way into struggling boardrooms, shaking
things up and selling when the share price
rises. Intentionally humiliating letters are his
wrecking balls, often written after lengthy
investigations. Another former colleague
describes him as a very odd duck, an urbane,
easily distracted egotist with a ruthless streak.
Loeb credits his early entrepreneurial
instincts to his great-aunt Ruth Handler, who
invented the Barbie doll. At his junior high
school, he paid a bigger classmate to be his
A year after ousting

Thompson at Yahoo,
Loeb sold up, making
a billion dollar profit
Chief concerns: After taking his place on the
board, Daniel Loeb began a campaign to
replace Sothebys leadership, from CEO down
bodyguard. Dans mouth would get him into

trouble, the boy, Robert Schwartz who now
works for Loebs venture capital unit in Silicon
Valley told Bloomberg in 2005. Loeb was
barely in his teens when he began dreaming
of big business. Any girls here? he asked the
student gathering in 2009. You know when
youre in school and you were in love with a
guy and you would write his name over and
over on a piece of paper? I used to write down
Third Point Partners over and over. Schwartz
said Loebs English teacher had nicknamed him
Milo Minderbinder, the amoral war proteer
in Catch-22.
Berkeley came before Columbia and an entry
to Wall Street. Loeb founded Third Point LLC in
1995. In 2004, he married Margaret Davidson
Munzer, a former yoga instructor and graduate of New York Universitys school of social
work. Four years later, the couple bought an
apartment overlooking Central Park for $45m,
then a record for the city.
Loeb practises Ashtanga yoga, competes in
triathlons and surfs all over the world. But he
is in his element when he is in or attacking a boardroom. In 2005, he called Irik
Sevin, CEO of Connecticut energy company
Star Gas Partners, one of the most dangerous and incompetent executives in America.
Having learned that Cornell University offered
a scholarship in Sevins name, Loeb added in
his letter, One can only pity the poor student
who suffers the indignity of attaching your
name to his academic record. He told the executive to retreat to your waterfront mansion in
the Hamptons where you can play tennis and

hobnob with your fellow socialites. He even
took aim at the executives 78-year-old mother,
whose seat on the company board displeased
him. Sevin was gone within days.
Later, in a dry run for his assault on Sothebys,
Loeb took on Yahoo, in which Third Point held
a 5.8 per cent stake. In May 2012, he wrote a
letter revealing discrepancies in the CV of the
companys new CEO, Scott Thompson. Ten days
later Thompson was out, too. Loeb took a seat
on the board and poached Marissa Mayer from
Google to be CEO. Whether the manoeuvre has
been a success for Yahoo is a matter for debate;
Mayers leadership had been criticised widely
before Verizon bought Yahoo for nearly $5bn
last July. But for Loeb, that hardly mattered;
a year after installing Mayer, he sold most of
his shares and walked away with a $1bn prot.
In the same year, Loeb wrote similar letters
to Sony after buying stock in the Hollywood
studio. The manoeuvre enraged George Clooney,
who called the investor a carpetbagger who
was dangerous to our industry. He said a
predatory hedge-fund manager trying to x a
Hollywood studio was like Walmart saying, Let
me x your town [then] putting in their store,
strangling all the small shops and getting everyone who worked in them to work for minimum
wage with no health insurance. Perhaps with
an eye on his social diary, Loeb responded with
uncharacteristic magnanimity. I believe our
interests are aligned in a way [Clooney] probably doesnt realise, he told Variety.
Sothebys was next on Loebs hit list. In
August 2013, he revealed that Third Point
owned a 5.7 per cent stake in Sothebys,
bought at a cost of more than $150m. William
Ruprecht, who had started out as a typist in the
rug department and later become well known
for his avuncular manner at the rostrum, knew
what was coming next. Despite Ruprecht having
worked at the auction house for 33 years, 13 of
them as CEO, Loeb launched a written assault
to oust him two months later, accusing him of
failing to modernise the business and of presiding over a culture of excess by taking a pay
package in 2012 of more than $6.3m (last year,
Tad Smiths package topped $20m).
Skewed compensation programs... inevitably
result in exactly the type of lackadaisical corporate culture evident at Sothebys today, Loeb
wrote. He singled out an extravagant lunch in
New York where Sothebys senior management feasted on organic delicacies and imbibed
vintage wines at a cost to shareholders of multiple hundreds of thousands of dollars. We
acknowledge that Sothebys is a luxury brand,
but there appears to be some confusion this
does not entitle senior management to live a
life of luxury at the expense of shareholders.
Loeb ended the letter by announcing his
intention to join the board and demanding
that Ruprecht resign. Then he twisted the

knife, revealing he had already been talking to
potential replacements.
The attack triggered a legal battle for control.
Sothebys put up a poison pill defence in
an attempt to block Loeb from buying more
shares and completing his boardroom invasion. Loeb sued the company to get the block
lifted. When the case came to court, in 2014,
a series of emails revealed how ugly the ght
had become. Ruprecht had told the board that
Loeb was driven by ego. [He] wants control
of our board. Our staff would hate that. Hes a
scumbag, he wrote. In emails to his side, Loeb
said his original letter was part of a holy jihad
to make sure all the Sothebys indels are
made aware that there is only one true God. It
was part of a Special Operation on Sothebys,
to shock and awe and undermine the credibility of Ruprecht. Loeb later said the remarks
were a joke and not intended to offend.
Loeb lost the lawsuit but won the war. Third
Point increased its stake to almost ten per cent
and Sothebys grudgingly welcomed him to
the board. In November 2014, Ruprecht was
nally red (ofcially, he resigned). The following March, De Sole became chairman and
Tad Smith took up his position as CEO. As
Loeb looked down on the smouldering battleeld, his charges set about convincing people
inside and outside the building that they could
rebuild the business. It wouldnt be long before
they faced an unexpected test.
dolph Alfred Taubman was a

dyslexic, self-made American
shopping-mall magnate and voracious art collector. If Smith, De Sole
and Loeb typied a new breed at
the top of the auction houses, they were following in Taubmans footsteps. He did more than
anyone else to turn Sothebys into a commercial giant after he bought the struggling auction
house in 1983. Taking up the old ght with
Christies with zeal, Taubman reportedly asked
friends to pledge allegiance. According to one
account, his wife, Judy, a glamorous former Miss
Israel, disowned her best friend, Princess Firyal
of Jordan, when she spotted a jewel belonging
to the princess being sold through Christies.
There were rumours executives sought to snuff
out romances that crossed the house divide.
According to a saying that circulated in
the early days of the great saleroom rivalry,
Since Loeb began

hisshakedown,
Sothebys has faced
declining sales and
bitter divisions
Photographs John Frost Newspapers
Costly mistake:
Sothebys collusion
with rival Christies
led to huge nes
and payouts, plus
jail time for owner
A Alfred Taubman
(pictured),
TheTimes, 26
September 2000
Christies were known as gentlemen pretending to be businessmen typically the younger

sons of peers whose elder brothers had inherited everything while Sothebys were businessmen pretending to be gentlemen. Now
its just businessmen and businessmen doing
battle, Christopher Mason says of the era that
Taubman ushered in.
By the Nineties, the rivalry had become
mutually destructive as the market and
margins shrunk. The solution would prove
costly. The company CEOs Diana DeDe
Brooks at Sothebys and Christopher Davidge
at Christies conducted a price-xing conspiracy, separating hundreds of millions from
unwitting clients. The FBI were on to them and
in 2000 a scandal erupted. Christies top brass
were safe from prosecution in London, but in
America, Brooks and Taubman were exposed.
They turned on each other. Taubman lost and
spent much of 2002 in prison.
In April last year, exactly a month after Loeb
had installed Smith as boss, Taubman, then 91,
died of a heart attack and his hitherto undocumented collection stunned the trade. Hundreds
of works spanning centuries, by Modigliani,
de Kooning, Rothko, Degas, Gainsborough,
Matisse and Picasso, were valued at more than
half a billion dollars. Sothebys secured the sale
and its marketing machine kicked into gear.
But what should have been a triumph turned
into a humiliating loss. Sothebys had agreed
to guarantee the auction for $500m, without
a third party. It was an unprecedented pledge
and huge gamble. The sales, which ended in
January this year, fell short, leaving a $3m
hole, plus several million more in expenses.
They had made an offer that hobbled them
and it put everyone in the company under
enormous pressure, one former insider says.
The failure heaped pressure on Smith, who
tried to reassure investors that the sale and
its guarantee had been a one-off. But more
bad news followed, with losses of $11.2m in
the last quarter of 2015 and $25m in the rst
quarter of 2016. Sothebys stock dipped below
$20 in mid February. At the start of 2014, it
had been as high as $53. Contemporary lots at
the May sales barely scraped over the lower
estimate. The impressionist and modern sale
was the worst for ve years.
More alarming were the reports of unrest
behind the rostrum. More than 80 staff took
voluntary redundancy at the end of last year.
Others walked out. The departures board was
a roll call of some of the biggest names in the
business: Alex Rotter, global co-head of contemporary art; Melanie Clore, chair in Europe
and co-chair of impressionist and modern art
worldwide; David Norman, vice chairman of
Sothebys Americas; Henry Wyndham, chairman of Sothebys Europe. The exodus followed the loss, after Loebs arrival in late 2013,
SOTHEBYS
of Tobias Meyer, the master of the gavel and
face of Sothebys contemporary art operation.
Canvass for opinion about the cause of disquiet inside Sothebys and the same words
come back: Amy Cappellazzo. The 49-year-old
had been the chair of postwar and contemporary development at Christies, but had left
in May 2013 to set up as a private dealer and
advisor at her new rm, Art Agency, Partners.
At the start of this year, Sothebys sensationally
poached her and her small team in a deal worth
$85m. Ex-colleagues and acquaintances describe
her as hugely talented, a force of nature and
one of the top players in the world. Yet the
nature and handling of her arrival at Sothebys
rufed feathers.
Many of Sothebys most senior hands woke
up to discover they had a new and very expensive boss; Cappellazzo, who wore a kilt and a
sash at the Gleneagles gathering, now oversaw
several departments, including impressionist
modern and contemporary art. By then, under
huge stress from the top to regain market
share, many were also losing faith in Smith.
Lots of people would have been eager to work
with Amy, but it was the way it was handled,
one insider says. It felt like, OK, theres just
no connection between us and you, and thats
when people started throwing in the towel.
Defections were once rare. Now theres a
revolving door, Ive never seen anything like
it, Dolman says. Cappellazzo will soon be
joined at Sothebys by Marc Porter, a giant
at Christies who announced his defection to
shocked colleagues last December. Rotter went
the other way; both men are enjoying lucrative periods of gardening leave.
Many clients feel left behind in the spin.
Collectors are saying to me, I cant believe
whats happening there. I dont have anybody
I can talk to anymore, one industry gure
says. Others fear a loss of institutional memory
and a neglect of the old families who built
Sothebys. If you needed a new roof on your
mansion and wanted to sell a couple of pictures
from the inherited collection, you could trust
Sothebys or Christies to come along and not
necessarily choose the best but help you make
enough money while not compromising the
collection, one veteran says. The sale rooms
offered a real service and the companies were
run by specialists with a certain connoisseurship. Today its purely about making money.
ummer had brought with it glimmers of hope. A contemporary sale

in London in June exceeded estimates, defying post-Brexit gloom
with a 52m haul. In July, the
auction house secured David Bowies personal collection, including works by Basquiat
and Hirst. A sale above the 10m estimate in
November will do much to restore condence;
Priced out
(clockwise from
right): The 2000
price-xing trial
slashed share
prices;smuggling
allegations hit the
auction house in
1997; then-CEO
Diane Brooks pleads
guilty but avoids jail
after the antitrust
investigation, 2001
Sothebys is now
largely in the
handsof its own
Chinese copycat
failure will be humiliating. Results for the

second quarter of the year, announced in early
August, were slightly better than expected,
and the share price, listed on the New York
Stock Exchange as BID, began climbing
above $30.
But, as GQ was going to press, a new, eastern
front opened up in Sothebys battle to survive.
Chen Dongsheng, a member of communist
nobility and Chairman Maos grandson-in-law,
sensationally announced that his company had
outspent Loeb to become the biggest shareholder in Sothebys. Taikang Life Insurance
sought its own seat on the board.
Chen had previously gawped at the record
$40m sale of Van Goghs Sunowers painting at Christies in London in 1987. The images
of the auction on television seemed inconceivably distant from my own life, he wrote
in his memoir. He later admitted copying
Sothebys and even quietly lmed a sale at
Sothebys Hong Kong. In 1993, he launched
China Guardian, an auction house that now
has annual revenues of half a billion dollars.
It also owns almost a quarter of Taikang Life
Insurance. Sothebys is now largely, and indirectly, in the hands of its own copycat.
The move gives each company a heavy foothold in the others main market. Both have
suffered, despite the aggressive investment
in art by Chinese buyers, who are wary of the
countrys shaky nance and property sectors.
Sothebys also gets access to the Chinese antiquities market it is banned from transacting in,
Maneker says. China Guardian gets Sothebys
brand and reputation. Its also a blow to the
state-backed Beijing Poly International Auction,
which had overtaken China Guardian to become
the worlds third-biggest auction house, despite
being founded only eleven years ago.
But its hard to imagine how the sudden
arrival of yet another interloper to Sothebys
board, even without Loebs scripted histrionics,
will play out. Chen may be playing a longer
game, but, according to form, Loeb will make
a swift and protable exit as soon as the share
price reaches an acceptable level.
Close to 300 years after a cultural institution
emerged from a London book sale, the future
of Sothebys is at the mercy of an unlikely
corporate power couple. Only a complete
upheaval of the business model is going to
create the value that they are demanding, one
insider says. But Im not sure anyone wants
to really take that risk.
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Trump fam
Rich, metropolitan
and elitist, Donald
Trumps children
are everything his
voters hate. But
these Kennedys of
reality TV have big
plans for the future
of their dynasty,
whether Daddy
daddy
wins or not...
STORY BY
Michael Wolff
Russ Tudor
ILLUSTRATION BY
MICHAEL WOLFF
ily values
Relatively normal
(clockwise from top left):
Donald Trump Jr, Donald,
Eric, Ivanka, Melania,
Barron and Tiffany
OCTOBER 2016 GQ.CO.UK
163
MICHAEL WOLFF
Donald Trump is a family man.

For the thrice-married, Eightiesstyle playboy billionaire, without
a discernable home life, this might
seem like another Trumpian bit
of preposterousness. And yet,
central to his business and political
life are his children, for whom he
is some combination of genius,
mad relation and himself the
intemperate child, and for whom
they are some kind of supporting
players, reliable executive pool
and dependable cronies.
t may not be quite a real family, as we
know real families but it is at least,
as sitcom fans might appreciate, a welldened family cast.
Certainly, it is beyond ordinary
experience, and perhaps outside of most
of the literature of dysfunction, to actually
imagine what Donald Trump ego-maniac,
self-created celebrity, inveterate cheater,
systematic liar, frequent bankrupt, a man most
of whose real life has occurred in the gossip
columns, and whose name stands for glitter
and superciality might have been like at
home and what his style of parenting is. In
fact, a tracking of Trumps nights out from the
gossip columns would reasonably indicate he
was largely absent.
But to no apparent negative effect. Three of
his adult children, Donald Jr, Eric and Ivanka,
have turned into seemingly straight-laced,
achievement-minded adults, and another,
22-year-old Tiffany, even though Kardashian
inclined, seems dedicated to the pursuit of
protable notoriety. The fth, Barron, dressed
often in photos in a Little Lord Fauntleroy
fashion, is ten. There are no drop-outs here or
evident psychiatric cases. They are quite the
Stepford Trumps.
They seem to have in mind to imagine themselves as a sort of instant political dynasty
or new social aristocracy, but without the
devil-may-care, borderline or proigate aspects
of, say, the Kennedys or the Bushes or, even,
the Windsors. Whereas those dynasties or
all dynasties are controlled from the top,
a dominant gure imposing duty, discipline,

and guilt, on naturally reluctant broods, the
Trump children seem to be eager heirs to their
status no rebellion here and often seem to
be trying to impose some order and tactical
sense on their father; a cute, if slightly clichd,
plot twist.
Thirty-four-year-old Ivanka Trump introduced her father more than a year ago at the
announcement of his presidential run at Trump

Tower in New York. But that then seemed fanciful on both of their parts another Trump
publicity stunt. It was only in the spring, when,
beyond anybodys expectation, likely including
that of all of the Trumps, it started to be clear
that he actually could be the nominee, that
his children began to step into the campaign.
They created a buffer between him and his letTrump-be-Trump advisors, most notably Corey
Lewandowski, his campaign manager, who had
forcefully egged Trump to ever-more attentiongrabbing Trumpian behaviour (not that that
seemed to be so difcult to do).
In this, you might see Trump as the madcap
promoter in the family business, the marketing savant with a hundred ideas, most terrible, but one among them a jewel. Or hes the
Maa don, who instead of being cautious and
circumspect, is, in Crazy Joey Gallo-style,
or like Dapper Don John Gotti, creating a
legend while risking getting the family locked
up or gunned down. Still, hes the patriarch.
What are children, particularly ones with an
economic incentive, to do?
Through role-model parenting, or by holding
the purse strings close, Trump has tethered at
least his three older children (the children of
his rst wife, Ivana Tiffany is the daughter
he had with Marla Maples, and Barron with
his current wife Melania) to the family name
and business.
His two sons have built behind-the-scenes,
none-too-taxing, careers for themselves as
managers of the familys mid-size real estate
portfolio and services business, running the
business that their father, concentrating
Family fortunes (from left): Tiffany Trump, Lara Yunaska, her husband Eric Trump, Barron, his
mother Melania, Donald Trump, vice president nominee Mike Pence and his wife Karen, their
eldest daughter Charlotte, Ivanka Trump and her husband Jared Kushner, take to the stage
during the Republican National Convention in Cleveland, Ohio, 21 July 2016
MICHAEL WOLFF
Trump had no
organisation,
other than his
children and his
Twitter account
on his television and now political career,

hasnt had time for. His daughter Ivanka,
while taking a role in the business, and also
assisting in reality shows, and developing
fashion and jewellery lines, is too a dedicated
Manhattan socialite, who, with her husband
Jared Kushner, himself a billionaire real estate
scion (to marry him, she converted to orthodox Judaism) has been climbing up the New
York power rungs. Rupert Murdoch and his
then wife Wendi, who lived upstairs from
them in a Trump building on Park Avenue,
adopted them as friends (in addition to his
family real estate business, Kushner bought
the New York Observer, a media-and-society
focused Manhattan newspaper, and dutifully
solicited Murdochs advice); they worship in
the private synagogue of Revlon billionaire
Ronald Perelman; and Ivanka is a friend of
Georgina Bloomberg, the daughter of Michael
Bloomberg, the former New York mayor and
the sixth richest man in the US, as well as most
other on-the-town heirs and heiresses.
he Trump children tted seamlessly,
and with rising prole, into New
Yorks clubby life of wealth and
social mixing and climbing that is,
until their father, defying all logic,
suddenly adopted the role of populist hero and
nativist provocateur, shaking his relationship
with the New York elite (at the Democratic
convention this summer, Michael Bloomberg
would call Trump a dangerous demagogue).
From the spring on, Ivankas husband,
Kushner, generally considered the brains of the
operation (raising the eyebrows of many who
know him), and the writer/editor of important (that is to say, not off-the-cuff) Trump
speeches, began accompanying him on the
campaign trail. During an interview I did with
Trump in early May in Los Angeles, Kushner
hovered at his side, a thin, reedy, quiet gure,
receding beside his towering, bulky and voluble
father-in-law. It would be too much to say
that Kushner was disapproving, but certainly
he seemed long-suffering. Kushner has been
forced to endure public condemnation from his
own reporters at the New York Observer, and to
try to publicly defend the support his father-inlaw has received from open anti-Semites and
to have suffered the Kushner familys opprobrium at this defence.
Still, the point is that the Trump children
(and in-laws) are rather stuck with the Trump
phenomenon, and the mind-boggling possibility that the titular head of the clan might
actually be president and all that that might
imply from a branding perspective.
And, if he fails to become president, well
something had better be salvaged here the
Trump name is their patrimony too. Hence,
there began a quite intense behind-the-scenes
push-pull with advisors who were either
encouraging him in his Trumpness or too
cowed to stand up to him. His three eldest
children seemed to be the only viable brakes
in his life. And, indeed, in June, Lewandowski,
who had arguably invented the most improbable electoral strategy in recent American
history just shoot from the hip was ousted
and replaced by theoretically more temperate leadership.
And yet, part of the problem here was that
there was not much to lead. Most campaign

managers control a campaign organisation,
which is what gives them power over egomaniacal or undisciplined candidates: a modern
candidate is a product run by large marketing
and nance departments requiring detailed
coordination. But Trump had no organisation,
other than his children, a few retainers, and
his Twitter account.
Trump was Trump and his family.
Almost the entire leadership of the
Republican party stayed home from the
Republican convention in July, ostentatiously
busy with other duties. This meant that the
four days of prime-time television were dominated not by a parade of party regulars, and
standard message bromides, but by an assortment of oddballs (many of whom seemed to
have been recently recruited off the streets)
with Trumpian-theme grievances, and, too, by
his snooty family.
It was hard to think which was odder, this
rough, bullying, end-times crowd, packing
guns and painkillers, or his children, prepped
out Richie Riches who Trumps base of angry
unemployed working men were being asked
to embrace.
It was their roll-out too. In a way, even more
than their father, the Trump children were
being formally introduced to the nation. It
was a Trump promotional two-for-one. The
party and its donors paid for this extravaganza
(although, given the resistance to Trump,
coughing up a lot less than usual), just as
banks and other investors paid for his buildings, and, as hed successfully done with
those properties, he put his name, and the
Aim high: Donald Jr,

Ivanka and Eric, Trumps
eldest three children
with his rst wife Ivana,
attend the RNC in
Cleveland, 19 July 2016
names of all his family members, all over

the convention.
Reports had it that, given the opportunity,
his children would have had an entirely
different convention, free of their fathers
outr inclinations. Instead they had a parallel
convention. There were the antics of the nativist riff-raff and then there was the coronation
of the Trump princelings.
An off note, or some suggested calculated
piece of inter-family undermining, was the
opening-night address by their step-mother
Melania, Trumps third wife, the Slovenian
former model. Although Trumps three oldest
children were themselves the children of
another Eastern European model, rst wife
Ivana, there were many reports of class
friction within the family the children of
the first Eastern European model looking
down on the second Eastern European model
(Trumps middle wife, Marla Maples, was a
model and actress from Georgia the US state,
not the Caucasus country). In her address to
the convention, Melania, who had so far been
carefully kept off the campaign trail (her iffy
background turns out to include a college
degree she appears not to have got), repeated
a paragraph verbatim from the speech that
Michelle Obama had given when her husband
was nominated in 2008 a speech that some
members of the Trump campaign said was
supposed to be vetted by Ivanka.
But getting down to real family business, on
the second and third nights of the convention,

Donald Jr and Eric, thinner, tter, chips off
the old block, each delivered the kind of
speeches that would have been at home at
any Republican convention of the Fifties.
Here were the popular opinions, and formal
slicked-back hair countenance, of any conservative businessman from New York at a
time when all businessmen in New York were
conservative and as far from the interests and
concerns of the working man (or the unemployed man) as it is possible to get. In fact, if
the Trump base had an ideal enemy, Donald
Jr and Eric, big game hunters in their spare
time, self-centred and self-satised, might
reasonably be it. But, as always in the greater
Trump story, as inconsistent and perplexing as
any story ever told, pay no attention to what
doesnt make sense.
Trump, the
beauty pageant
owner, named
eldest daughter
Ivanka as his
feminine ideal
Big deals: Wendi Deng and Ivanka Trump who lived on different oors of a Trump building in
Manhattan during Dengs marriage to Rupert Murdoch at the Glamour Awards, 9 November 2015
And then there was their half-sister Tiffany,

which all biographies identied as being raised
exclusively by her mother her father would
sometimes forget to mention her when he
recited his childrens names. Trump-like, she
claimed her due in a good-natured speech
promoting her singing career and her socialmedia ambitions.
But Ivanka, rather openly her fathers
favourite Trump, the beauty pageant owner,
has acknowledged her as his feminine ideal
was the penultimate gure of the convention, delivering what may actually have been
its most peculiar speech (and there were
many others). It was a speech, meticulously
rehearsed and perfectly delivered, that might
have been at home at any Democratic convention, a speech about equality, social responsibility, womens rights and working mothers (a
week later, when Chelsea Clinton introduced
her mother at the Democratic convention, the
joke went around that she should have just
used Ivankas speech). It also introduced her
father as a caring dad, frequently entertaining
his young daughter in his ofce, and always
taking her calls during the work day. (While
she was on the stage, Tony Schwartz, the coauthor with Trump of the book that contributed so much to the Trump mythology and
brand identity, The Art Of The Deal according
to Trump, the best selling business book of all
time tweeted that, in the 18 months he was,
on a daily basis, at Trumps side, he never saw
Ivanka once, or ever heard her father mention
her name.) But then again, it was not so much
the speech that was memorable, but her presence. She was like a kind of Disney gure, an
ideal confection, a product of animatronics,
with a poise not physically possible, and with
a distinctively pitched Disney voice, wholly
unnatural and yet oddly reassuring.
In the end, thats the stand-out thing: none
of them seem real. They are made-up gures
in the made up Trump life. An escape from
real life, which is perhaps why nobody at the
Republican convention took evident umbrage
at this sudden new circle of privilege and
royalty. They are a movie idea of the silly rich.
They are wedding-cake gures who it wouldnt
occur to anyone to really take seriously. How
could you? Unless their father becomes president. Then they will ll the cabinet and make
major policy decisions and generally, as their
father is distracted by other things, run the
nation. A ction, or, as it were, reality premise,
still wholly impossible to fathom.
MORE
FROM GQ
For these related stories,

visitGQ.co.uk/magazine
Break Up To Make Up (Michael Wolff, September 2016)

The Last Days Of Sumner (Michael Wolff, August 2016)
What Wendi Knows (Michael Wolff, July 2016)
Photograph New York Times/ Redux/ eyevine
MICHAEL WOLFF
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COUNTRY
CHECK
Sam Heughan, star of the hit series Outlander and
global brand ambassador for Barbour, shows GQ
howhe wears his country check
G Partnership
As a boy in Galloway in
southwest Scotland in the
Eighties, actor Sam Heughan
grew up just a short distance
from the farm where Barbours
original founder, John Barbour,
had lived a century earlier.
Now the star of hit time-travel
series Outlander, filmed on
location in Scotland, has become
the first global brand ambassador
for the clothing company, which
was founded in 1894. Heughans
Scottish roots and love of the
great outdoors make him the
ideal man to demonstrate
Barbours rugged line of waxed
jackets and iconic check shirts
in action.
Being Scottish, I grew up
with the brand and have always
been a big fan, says Heughan.
The company has a long
history and heritage and their
archive goes right back to 1910,
through many periods of
momentous history. Its so
intriguing to see how Barbour

has adapted yet retained its
strong identity.
Sam wears a range of
styles from the Barbour
Shirt Department a capsule
collection for all occasions,
built around the brands witty
proviso that every gentleman
needs a country check a
phrase that appeared in one
of Barbours early catalogues in
the Twenties. As well as wearing
Barbour, Heughan will also be
developing his own signature
capsule collection for AW17,
incorporating tartans based
on those of the Ayrshire district,
where the Barbour family
originated in the 13th century.
Just like in Outlander, it seems,
this is history coming to life.
SEE IT, CLICK

Introducing Style.com: the new
one-stop shop from the people who
bring you GQ and Vogue. Its your
personal fashion concierge, embedding
our most knowledgeable insiders in one
hi-tech hub that learns your tastes and
tailors its tips. Log on, like and share in
the future of smart retail.
Robert Johnston
STORY BY
Sell up: The launch

campaigns for new
online retail superstar
Style.com appeared
in Vogue and GQ
MANY YEARS AGO, in a different life, I moved

back to London after several years living in
Sydney and by chance found myself freelancing at GQ for a few months.
The editor in those days was Michael
VerMeulen, a larger-than-life character from
Chicago who was literally a legend in his own
lunchtime. He died in suitably dramatic style a
few years later but one of his throwaway comments has stuck with me ever since: GQ is all
about neat shit to buy.
I doubt, however, that back then in the
pre-web world VerMeulen knew quite how
prophetic that would prove to be. This month
sees the launch of Style.com, the latest project
from Cond Nast, GQ and Vogues parent
company. Put simply, it brings the pages of the
worlds most inuential fashion titles to life in
a curated luxury experience so you can now,
literally, buy all that neat shit.
The way I see it, inspiration starts on the
pages of GQ, says Style.coms President,
Franck Zayan, who was recruited to launch
the company from the French department
store Galeries Lafayette. What you see on the
pages of the magazine may help you to make
a decision on your future purchases. Style.com
is the connection between the inspiration and
the transaction to create a bridge between editorial and commerce.
For more than a century, Cond Nast has
been in the vanguard of style and, through the
pages of Vogue and GQ, has created some of
the greatest imagery in fashion, featuring icons
such as Linda Evangelista, Claudia Schiffer and
Kate Moss, and remarkable men such as David
Beckham, Steve McQueen and Prince Harry.
Thanks to technology these images can now
STYLE.COM
IT, WEAR IT
be brought to life and you can actually buy

the clothes that they and the creative teams
who dressed them inspired. So, if you like,
the experience of shopping will be a seamless
extension of the editorial experience.
The site has been built on three main pillars.
Number one is the world-class content of
GQ, says Zayan. The second is the amazing
assortment of brands. We want to be the place
where you nd all those amazing names that
you know, love and read about in the magazine
and on the website, as well as the labels of the
future. We will be out there chasing the new
designers. The third pillar is the experience we
want to provide, so weve invested heavily in
a range of technologies that will help the customer with recommendations and, eventually,
with a high degree of personalisation. For a
very long time, e-commerce was just about
selling products and now what were doing is
Screen stars: Point

yourdevice to Style.com
for a mix of original
content and stories
fromGQ and Vogue
Style.com will
blend human
expertise
witharticial
intelligence
Franck Zayan, President, Style.com
bringing that whole experience together: we

inspire, we guide, we offer and we sell.
The sites fashion director is Yasmin Sewell,
the Australian-born creative who has one of
the best CVs in the business, having headed up
teams at Browns and Liberty, as well as running
her own fashion label and boutique. She has
been described by the inuential fashion news
website fashionista.com as the street style star
even street style stars love.
Style.com will be the most exciting destination for menswear, and the best place to
nd the unexpected, she says. Well have a
unique brand mix that reects how men want
to look now. Its not about dressing headto-toe in one designer, its about mixing luxury
brands with streetwear and wearing established labels with newer designers. That mix
is really important to us and its at the heart
of who we are its all about taking a little of
this, a little of that and making it work for your
own style. You can always expect to nd something different.
THE POTENTIAL MARKET IS HUGE. By the
end of the decade it is predicted that global
sales of menswear will reach around 380
billion. In the UK alone the menswear market
is set to grow by over 20 per cent in the same
period. Indeed, when it comes to growth
in shopping, the boys are now outstripping
the girls.
As well as buying directly from the
site, Style.com can also be accessed from
GQ.co.uk so you can buy as you read. If you
are on the GQ website a Style.com tab will
appear to let you know that a story is shoppable. Click the tab and youll be shown the
products you can buy, plus recommendations

based on what youre looking at. As soon as you
have nished shopping, you just close the tab and
go back to reading GQ.
The sites product-recognition technology is a
unique blend of articial intelligence and human
expertise, says Zayan, and will curate a unique
portfolio of pieces. In other words, while you will
see a wide range of brands on the site, in reality
there will be a small number that you really like
and maybe even a couple that you have no afnity
with and would never dream of wearing. To make
life easier, the sites team is creating a recommendation engine that will progressively learn
your likes and dislikes through your interaction
with Style.com to help and guide you as well as
making suggestions and introducing you to new
designers and labels. And if there are particular
brands that you really cant stand it will remove
them from view.
The experience can be compared to going to your
favourite bricks-and-mortar store, says Zayan.
The site will ensure that you know your way
around and the personalisation element will feel like
you have access to a sales team that knows you well,
too, and knows what you like and what you dont.
And like a esh-and-blood sales team, the site will
help you nd alternatives. But this will be nothing
like the somewhat random recommendations you
might nd on other websites Amazon once came
up with a post-pregnancy work-out plan as the sort
of book I might be interested in. Instead, Style.com
looks at and compares the DNA of labels such as,
for example, nationality and whether they are big
on prints to give what could be described as a
subjective opinion.
One thing men have certainly come to expect
is a painless, seamless experience when theyre
shopping, insists Sewell. Theres nothing more
dispiriting than wading through product thats
irrelevant to what youre looking for, whether
youre in a store or online. So Style.com is going
to offer something different it will adapt to
each person who uses it, suggesting products and
brands specically for that customer based on what
theyve bought and liked before. Each time you use
the site, it will learn more about what you like, so
itll be able to make more recommendations the
site will curate itself around your taste. Itll make
riing through rails or clicking through endless
pages of product feel a little old-fashioned.
Ultimately, the plan is to extend Style.coms reach
into all the areas that Cond Nast covers worldwide,
such as design, travel, grooming and technology,
to make it a true lifestyle destination. With plans
for further expansion in the pipeline, Cond Nast
already operates in 28 markets across the globe and
reaches more than 350 million consumers, making
it one of the worlds leading multimedia companies.
This includes close to 100 websites engaging
more than 115 million unique users and more
than 200 tablet and mobile apps that will generate millions of downloads. With gures like
Each time you use

the site, it will learn
more about what
you like
Yasmin Sewell, Fashion Director, Style.com
Ring it up: Follow

Style.com on Instagram
for more unique content
PHOTOGRAPHS BY
Adam Whitehead STYLING BY Jessica Punter
What man has never

wanted a black leather
jacket? Give yourself
some updated Marlon
Brando credibility and
pair with great knitwear.
Shop
the
Look
1. Jacket: French label Ami isa current GQ favourite, thanks toits great quality menswear at fair
prices. This black leather will only get better with age. 1,040. At Style.com
2. Jumper: Again by Ami, this monochrome jumper is warm enough for the colder months but not
too bulky to wear under slim-cut jackets like this. 260. AtStyle.com
3. Trousers: Who says you cant wear black and brown together? These camel trousers by Bally
prove the combination can work perfectly. 525. At Style.com
STYLE.COM
Shop
the
Look
Get the most out of modern
tailoring by mixing suiting
with unexpected pieces,
suchas sportswear, to
givesmart dressing a
wholenew meaning.
Top
Sir Paul Smith is passionate
about bikes and he has taken
inspiration from cycling
sportswear to create pieces
such as this jersey zipped
topwith a houndstooth
check. 245.AtStyle.com
Suit
Take a more relaxed
attitude to tailoring
with Paul Smiths
Seventies approach,
which is very much
the fashion favourite
right now. Flared
trousers make
astrong style
statement. Jacket,
605. Trousers, 300.
Both at Style.com
Trainers
Emphasise that relaxed
vibe by wearing tailoring
with trainers. But keep the
style factor high with the
perfect pair of white
trainers, such as these
onesby Common Project.
265. At Style.com
STYLE.COM
Well have
aunique mix
toreect how
men look now
Shop
the
Look
Yasmin Sewell, Fashion Director, Style.com
Shop right there

For further information on the
website or todiscover more of the
best menswear, shoes,accessories
and grooming, and to startshopping,
go to Style.com or look for the Style.com
iconon stories at GQ.co.uk.
1. Coat: The degrade

effect, where different
colours blend into each
other, is very hot right
now and makes this
classic Valentino coat
areal fashion statement.
2,816. At Style.com
2. Jumper: Swedish brand

Our Legacy puts cool
into conservative with
its subtle reworking
ofwardrobe classics.
270. AtStyle.com
3. Trousers: Black trousers
are invaluable basics but
can sometimes make
you look like a waiter,
sostyle up these from
Pringle Of Scotland by
wearing so they just
touch the shoes and
adda flash of colour.
395. AtStyle.com
4. Shoes: Tim Littles
Grenson combines the
best of Northampton
shoemaking with a
well-honed fashion
sensibility. 210.
AtStyle.com
1. Jumper: You should

nolonger expect
thesuit to begin and
end inthe office, but
rathertake you from
aworking lunch to
weekend drinks. For
thelatter, ditch the
shirtand tie and
chooseflattering
knitwear, such as this
turtleneck by Ami,
foracool look with
aretrotwist. 179.
AtStyle.com
2. Jacket: This autumn
isall about the luxury
parka and they dont
come much more
extravagant than this
butter-soft version by
Bally. This is a classic
investment piece that
youll still love in years
to come. 3,895.
AtStyle.com
3. Suit: The British
father-and-son
designduo behind
Casely-Hayford
specialises in
fusingtailoring with
streetwear to create
anultra-flattering
slim-line silhouette.
Jacket, 624. Trousers,
325. AtStyle.com
A camel coat is
anideal addition
to any wardrobe
and is perfect
over a suit
or,foramore
casual look, ditch
jacketsin favour
of knitwear.
For a sleek
takeon winter
dressing, combine
a wardrobe
essential with a
classic twist on
sharp tailoring.
Style assistant Sophie Churchill Photography assistant Sam Henry Grooming David Wadlow at Premier using Unite, Babyliss
Pro UK and Aveda Digital technician Henry Huntingford Model Victor Norlander at Supa Shot at JJ Locations (jjlocations.com)
these, Cond Nast can claim to reach the top

ve per cent of the worlds adult population.
Not surprisingly, then, the team sees Style.com
as very much the future of retail. Were interested
in whats modern: how men are dressing now and
whats actually relevant to them, claims Sewell.
Realistically, most men are no longer spending every day in a three-piece suit, but they still
want to look grown-up, well-dressed and comfortable and they need clothes that will t into
their everyday lives. So our man could be wearing
tailoring or a tracksuit, but hes still going to care
about the detail, the provenance and the quality
of what hes wearing.
Style.com will also be creating its own unique
stories, from interviews with the worlds best
designers to trend guides, as well as travel pieces
and style directories. Much of the content will
also appear dynamically so if, for example, you are
reading a piece online about swimming shorts, an
article on the pick of the worlds best beach clubs
or summer grooming routines might appear next
to it. Or if you are looking at, say, the E Tautz area
of the site, an interview with Patrick Grant might
appear, with a gallery of men wearing the brand
and a trend piece on how to wear relaxed tailoring
anything that might be relevant to the brand in
question. The pieces themselves will be a mix of
original Style.com content as well as edits from the
pages of GQ. Unlike other e-commerce sites there
will be no formal divide between the content and
the shopping experience.
In addition, the site is setting up a dedicated
customer care team who will be able to answer
questions and help with requests. While we are
building incredibly powerful technology, this in
itself would not be enough if we didnt also add
human expertise to the experience, explains
Zayan. It is that element of human interaction
that makes it really powerful.
The team will also be trained to help nd particular items or direct you to specic articles that might
help. They will even help you match shoes to suits if
you so require but, as Sewell might suggest, dont
necessarily expect them to choose brogues.
Field days: Over one weekend

in August, 1996, 250,000
people came to Knebworth
Park to see Oasis and witness
a bright moment in British
music history; (opposite) to
Liam Gallagher, the crowd
was unbeatable
Be here
OASIS
Photographs Getty Images; Photoshot
Whats there
to be nervous
about? One
hundred and
twenty-five
thousand people
there to give
you love?
Knebworth, 1996: the ley lines of a resurgent

nation confident, swaggering, optimistic are
about to cross in a field in Hertfordshire.
Two brothers, not long absent from a Manchester
dole queue, will take the stage to stand front
and centre in a cultural revolution. Now, 20
years on, GQ speaks to Noel and Liam Gallagher
about a moment in time that belongs to
Great Britain and two nights in August that
guaranteed their names would live forever
then
STORY BY
Kevin E Perry
This is history.
Right here.
Right now.
This is history!
I thought this was Knebworth, deadpanned
brother Liam, standing front and centre.
What are you on about? Ah, were all going
to History for the weekend to watch Oasis. Its
not on the map, our kid...
Both brothers were, for once, right. Oasis at
Knebworth was history in the making. Those
two nights in a muddy eld near Stevenage
were the high-water mark not just for their
band but for a wave of British culture that
transformed the country at the end of the last
century. For better or for worse, the energy
of a whole generation was coming to a head.
The art, music, lm and television being produced, debated, adored and, yes, derided
would come to dene this country for the
next two decades.
The past year alone had seen Damien Hirst
win the Turner Prize with Mother And Child
(Divided) in formaldehyde, Ewan McGregor
become a junkie pin-up almost overnight
via his turn in Danny Boyles seminal
Trainspotting, Paul Gascoigne lift the ball over
Scottish defender Colin Hendry at Euro 96
and the Spice Girls tell the world what they
really, really wanted on the staircase at the St
Pancras Renaissance Hotel. There was a sense
that Britain was the new centre of the world, at
least creatively, and that same transformative
surge of national optimism would carry Tony
Blair to power in a landslide victory the
following May.
Nobody rode, or fuelled, the nations midNineties ego quite like Oasis. Just three
years, two months and ten days before they
swaggered out at Knebworth, Alan McGee
(Oasis savvy label boss) had stumbled across
the band playing to a nearly empty room at
the 300-capacity King Tuts Wah Wah Hut in
Glasgow and decided to sign them on the spot.
The speed of their rise was unprecedented and
is unlikely ever to be repeated. The Knebworth
shows, still the biggest rocknroll gigs in British
history, came just two years after the release of
their debut Denitely Maybe in August 1994.
Oasis got so big so fast that it was during
their headline set at Glastonbury in June 1995
that they debuted songs like Hello, Roll
With It and Morning Glory from their asyet-unreleased second album. Wonderwall
was rst introduced to the nation by Noel,
alone, with an acoustic guitar, live on Channel
Fours backstage Glastonbury coverage, with
a bleached-haired Robbie Williams mugging
for the camera in the background. When it
was released in October, (Whats The Story)
Morning Glory? sold a record-breaking 347,000
copies in its rst week and went on to spend
ten weeks at No1.
If you were a young man in Britain in the
Nineties, seeing Oasis live, or at least attempting to see Oasis live, was a rite of passage.
Without the collective voyeurism of social
media, the gig-goers experience back in the
mid-Nineties could only be shared, liked or,

indeed, lived by actually buying a ticket and
turning up. Oasis at Knebworth is one of the
very last large-scale concerts where the retort
You had to be there actually still applies. This
is, in part, why history has ring-fenced these
gigs with a sort of hallowed sanctity. A monobrowed mythology, if you will.
Demand for their two nights at Earls Court
at the start of November 1995 was so immense
that immediately after the shows the band
and their management began scouring the
country for a venue big enough to accommodate their adoring, sweary fanbase. There
was to be no Glastonbury in 1996, as Michael
Eavis announced a fallow year to give his cows
a break from Britpop, and arch-rivals Blur had
disappeared off to reinvent themselves after
the release of The Great Escape. The stage was
left for Oasis to make the summer their own.
The big question was where exactly that
stage would be. The Gallagher brothers were
taken to various sites across Britain, but as
soon as Noel visited Knebworth House in
March of 1996 he was convinced hed found
the place where theyd make history in part
thanks to Tim Burtons Batman. Knebworth
House is Batmans house in the films,
explained Noel, who along with his brother
Liam spoke exclusively to GQ about Knebworth
and the new documentary out next month
charting the bands rise, Supersonic, created by
Asif Kapadia and the Academy Award-winning
team behind Amy.
Did you know that? Well, when you see the
Batman lms and they drive through the big
gates, thats Knebworth House. So there I was
driving into Batmans house, right, in a RollsRoyce, off my head, and I remember driving
into this big eld and sitting on my Rolls-Royce
thinking I was Jimi Hendrix at Woodstock, and
nearly having a panic attack cos Id been up
all night drinking, and going, Yeah! Ill take it.
Where do I sign?
At this point, the band couldnt announce
gigs fast enough. At the end of April, they
played two nights at Maine Road, home to their
beloved Manchester City, in front of 40,000
people each night. If you were looking
Tonight, Im a rocknroll star (top left, from left):

Oasis Paul Bonehead Arthurs, Liam and Noel
Gallagher, Paul McGuigan and Alan White visited
Knebworth the day before a weekend that
represented Great Britain at its most optimistic.
The band returned by helicopter on the Saturday,
ying in over the heads of the 125,000-strong
crowd that had gathered since 2pm and included
professional footballers and Nineties It girls among
the 2,500 enclosured VIPs, 9-11 August 1996
Photographs Jill Furmanovsky
Just after 9pm on Sunday 11 August 1996,

NoelGallagher stepped on stage in front of
125,000 people for the second night running,
jabbed his index nger at them and bellowed:
OASIS
for an emblem of the renewed national

pride sweeping the country, Noel had turned
up playing a guitar emblazoned with the
Union Jack.
A little over a week later, on Tuesday 7
May, Oasis appeared on Chris Evans Radio
1 Breakfast Show at 8.15am to announce
theyd be playing two nights at Knebworth
the following August. When tickets went on
sale at 9am on Saturday 11 May, priced at
22.50 each, 2.6 million people rang in to the
phone lines one in 20 of the UKs total population. All 250,000 tickets sold out within
minutes, raising 5.6 million, and swelling the
Gallaghers planet-sized collective ego.
After the Maine Road concerts, and as Euro
96 got underway across England, the band
took a couple of months off from touring. The
Gallaghers were by now regulars on the front
pages of the tabloids. The band were so infamous, so popular, that a poll at the end of
June by industry magazine Music Week saw
Oasis not just named as the countrys All Time
Favourite Band but in doing so receiving nearly
twice as many votes as The Beatles. A statement by the band at the time described the
result as blasphemous.
They returned to touring at the beginning
of August, playing two dates in Scotland at
Loch Lomond in front of another 40,000 fans
each night although by now even these
huge shows were being considered merely a
warm-up for the main event. At Knebworth,
over 3,000 crew were involved in setting up
the staging for the concerts and at the time
the video screen backdrops were the largest
ever built. Noel claimed that his personal guitar
amp-rig for the shows was louder than the
sound of a jet taking off and able to be heard
ten miles away.
Simply getting 125,000 people on and off
site in a single day presented a logistical nightmare. Extra staff and security measures had to
be laid on at Stevenage station to cope with
the 30,000 fans who arrived via trains, including the Oasis Special from Kings Cross. On
top of that, there were so many coachloads
of fans arriving from across the country that
a holding pen had to be built to look after the
1,500 bus drivers waiting to ferry them home
again. When fans did get on site, organisers
Where do you
go after that?
The next step
was playing
on the moon
had to battle to keep up with their demand for

alcohol. Vendors sold 600,000 pints of lager
and went through over 2,000 beer barrels,
which they had to change every 30 seconds.
Even at that pace there were still hour-long
queues to get hold of a beer.
he VIP area alone held more

people than the Royal Opera
House. If you were lucky enough
to get your name on the 2,500strong guestlist it granted you
access to a backstage hamlet centred around
a vast marquee bearing the legend Creation
Records: World Class. The area served as
a physical manifestation of music industry
excess in the Britpop era. Nothing was not
available. There were magicians, caricaturists
and even, for some long-forgotten reason, an
enormous Scalextric track.
Support bands started at 2pm. On the
Saturday, the show was opened by The Bootleg
Beatles. The idea of having The Beatles at
the bottom of the bill showed the Gallaghers
typical mix of veneration and arrogance. They
were followed by The Chemical Brothers,
Ocean Colour Scene, Manic Street Preachers
and The Prodigy. Manic Street Preachers were
the only band other than Oasis to play again on
Sunday, joined this time by Cast, Dreadzone,
Kula Shaker and The Charlatans. Its quite a
humbling experience, noted Manics frontman
James Dean Bradeld on the day. Its [Oasis]
crowd and theyre there to see them alone.
You know youre basically an afterthought.
Everyone was, indeed, only really there for
one thing. Having already visited the site the
day before, for a photo call, Oasis arrived back
at Knebworth on the Saturday in a helicopter that had own them all the way up from
Battersea and brought them in over the heads
of the throng waiting to adore them. Just
before they appeared on stage a short video
played, opening with a shot of Noels already
iconic Union Jack guitar as The Swamp Song
blasted over the speakers.
The band gave the fans exactly what they
wanted: 20 songs that included most of
Morning Glory, half of Denitely Maybe, a few
B-sides and a couple of new ones that would
end up on Be Here Now, the groups third
album which would come out the following
summer. They nished the main set with Live
Forever, which concluded with a giant portrait
of John Lennon appearing over the stage. On
the Sunday, Liam kneeled before it in supplication while Noel instructed the audience to
Show your respect.
For their encore, they were joined on both
nights by The Stone Roses guitarist John
Squire for Champagne Supernova and their
closing cover of I Am The Walrus, a song that
The Beatles themselves never played live. We
truly didnt give a f***, explained Liam. We

were like The Pistols in that sense. The real
deal, not careerist pretend rock stars.
The sheer scale of the Knebworth shows
cemented Oasis status as Britains biggest
band. By way of comparison, even The Stone
Roses infamous outdoor concert at Spike
Island in May 1990, which the Gallaghers had
hoped one day to emulate, was only attended
by 27,000 people.
Knebworth, however, also came to represent a summit that, once scaled, could never be
matched. Mat Whitecross, director of the 2012
lm Spike Island and behind the camera again
for Supersonic, says that while interviewing
the Gallaghers he learned it was that weekend
20 years ago when things rst started to fall
apart for the band.
What was fascinating to me, he explained,
was that almost unanimously everyone said,
Yes, it was this amazing event, but actually
that was the beginning of the end. Whats
vital about a small band of ve working-class
mates on the road together the punk-rock
spirit is immediately lost when you become
this brand. Its like becoming IBM. Indeed,
in hindsight it seems like an obvious question: where do you go after playing to quarter
of a million people in a eld? As Mark Coyle,
Oasis early sound engineer and one of Noels
oldest friends, put it, The next logical step is
playing on the moon.
There were even those, like McGee, who
argued that the band should have split straight
after the gigs, but Noel says the band were
never that calculating in their decision-making.
To be that cool you have to be cool, Noel told
GQ. And to be honest we werent that cool.
Noel may not think so, but to a generation of
British men the Gallaghers were just that cool,
self-assured and utterly enviable. When they
played those two nights at Knebworth, Noel
was 29 and Liam was still just 22, but they had
already redened what it meant to be a young
man in Britain in the Nineties. For better or for
worse, every man worth his Clarks Wallabees
wanted their silly haircuts, their bow-legged
stances and their casual, trendy outerwear.
More than anything, of course, they wanted
their attitude. The Gallaghers had been saying
theyd be the biggest rocknroll stars on the
planet since they were signing on the dole in
Burnage. Two-and-a-half years later, standing
in a eld in Hertfordshire, the world nally
caught up with them. That, as Noel Gallagher
foretold, is history.
Supersonic is out on 2 October.
OASIS
Some might say...

Oasis at Knebworth, as seen by those who were there (and remember)
Noel Gallagher
Liam Gallagher
Alan McGee
At the time, I never gave Knebworth a second

thought. It seems ridiculous to say now, but it
was just another big weekend for me. Clearly
ying into your own gig in a helicopter over
that amount of people was a moment, but even
when it was all done and dusted I dont remember feeling, like, F***, wow! I just carried on
the party, writing and being drunk... which
would explain Be Here Now. I always knew
wed reach that level because as the songwriter I was always six months further down
the road than everyone else. When Denitely
Maybe caught re Id already written Morning
Glory so I knew what was coming. Our timing
was impeccable and once the people are with
you and you know you have the songs its easy.
Its more difcult to f*** it up... Mind you, the
singer had a good go at it, on a weekly basis.
Did the fans make it happen? I dont recall
the fans being there when the songs were
being written. I dont recall the fans being
there when the albums were being recorded
and I dont recall the fans being there when
we were rehearsing ve hours a night, ve
nights a week only 18 months previous. The
people that made it happen were on that helicopter. It would have been better had we not
got to Knebworth for another ve years but
that was our moment and you have no control
over it. The people demanded we play shows of
that magnitude and, for our sins, Oasis always
gave the people what they wanted.
Without sounding like an arrogant c***, I

wasnt surprised Knebworth happened that
quickly [two-and-a-half years after signing
off the dole]. I thought it would have happened a lot quicker. I knew we were going
to be massive; it was just a matter of time.
There were no nerves for me leading up to the
shows. I dont get nervous. If you get nervous
you shouldnt be doing it. Whats there to be
nervous about? One hundred and twentyve thousand people there to give you love?
Ill get nervous when no f***er turns up. It
felt great selling out any gig, but Knebworth
was just ridiculous. I still cant get my head
around it even to this day, but there you go.
It was beyond special and Id like to take this
opportunity to thank everybody for coming.
You were amazing. I live for big moments like
that. I cant remember anything about those
two days. I dont know where I slept or if
I slept. Id completely forgotten about those
f***ing stupid giant inatable footballs that
some bright spark gave us to kick into the
crowd. That could have gone tits up walking
on stage booting balls into the crowd. Good
job nobody slipped 125,000 people and you
end up on your arse. Greatest rocknroll gig of
all time? I would agree with them. Yeah, we
might have played better gigs or sang better
at other grounds, the sound might have been
better at others, but that crowd, as far as Im
concerned, were unbeatable.
Oasis manager, Creation Records

We could have done
16 nights at Knebworth,
thats how big the band
was at that point. Thats
beyond comprehension.
Ill tell you something: it
was full of football players.
It was right after Euro 96
and I was watching Stuart Pearce pogoing
with Dennis Wise in a f***ing eld. I could
barely watch the stage that night because
I kept thinking, How much am I going to get
sued for if someone gets a f***ing broken
leg here? At the very end, after the second
night at Knebworth, Meg [Matthews, Noel
Gallaghers then girlfriend] came and got me
and went, Noel wants to see you. We went
back and even though it was me, who found
the band, I had to go through three security
checks to prove who I was. We got back there
and it was one of the few times Ive ever seen
Noel Gallagher lost for words. We were in this
tiny, ordinary caravan. It wasnt a posh one,
just a wee caravan. Noel was sitting in the
corner, putting something in him. He looked
at me and he went, I dont know where we
go from here. Me being me, I was thinking,
Lets play Antarctica and do pay-per-view
but I couldnt tell him that at the time. Actually,
I did tell him later and he told me it was a
rubbish idea. But backstage at Knebworth he
tells me, Maybe we should go back and play
the 100 Club? Im thinking, Youve just played
Knebworth! What are you talking about?
I think it did his head in actually. I dont think
hell ever admit that. I think Knebworth did
Noel Gallaghers head in.
Stuart Pearce
Photographs Jill Furmanovsky; Getty Imges
Former England footballer
Paper gods: The set list included highlights from Denitely Maybe and (Whats The Story) Morning
Glory as well as I Am The Walrus, a track the Beatles never played live; other icons of Nineties Brit
rock joined Oasis earlier in the billing, including Manic Street Preachers, Cast and The Charlatans
I was with Nottingham

Forest at the time, and
o n e o f t h e yo u n g e r
players, Scot Gemmill,
was quite into his music,
as I am. I said to him, If
I can get tickets for this,
can you sort the transport? He said, Yeah, no problem at all. We
were away on a preseason tour and flew
back into Birmingham airport the morning of
the gig. Hed laid on a stretched white limo
for about eight of us from the Nottingham
Forest squad to go down in. The manager

was none too pleased at the time to see
half of us go away on the team bus and the
other half jump in a stretched limo with our
goalkeeper hanging out the sunroof with a
bottle of champagne in his hand. It was all
going swimmingly until we pulled into
Knebworth. It was raining at the time and
the limo ended up getting grounded. We all
had to get out and push. We had a great day.
We got back to Nottingham at about six in
the morning.
Caitlin Moran
Journalist
Im afraid my memories
are very minimal. I surfed
to Knebworth on an avalanche of cocaine and had
to hide under a table when
I got the fear, where
I met Creation signing
Trashmonk, AKA, Nick
Laird-Clowes from The Dream Academy, and
we talked about how much we hated drugs
while I quietly chewed my own head off.
Then I lost my Golden Circle wristband twice
and had to blag new ones from Johnny Hopkins
[Oasis publicist], who I remember simply
being a gigantic pair of angry eyes, oating
around the marquee like a cross between The
Cheshire Cat and a furious djinn. He seemed
to be the most powerful man in the universe.
Like he could order Tony Blair to simply be
thrown in the sea and it would happen. By
the time the band came on stage my entire
body was numb and I think I was wheeled
out into the Golden Circle on one of those
little trolley things they use in warehouses.
I remember Liam seemed very drunk and we
appeared to be in a world entirely made of men
between the ages of 17-35 shouting Geezer!
and looking like theyd temporarily forgotten about their heavy scheduling of murdering women. So I guess the music was a good
thing in that respect. It was a couple of days
off the murdering.
Andre Barreau
The Bootleg Beatles, support act
We were the very first
act on the rst day, so we
were soundchecking just
before we went on. We
were on stage when they
opened the gates, which
were miles away. It was
like they were in another
county. It looked like insects approaching us at
rst, but it was kids running to get to the front.
Wed already done two really big gigs with
Oasis at Earls Court in November 1995, then

we did Loch Lomond, Cork and Knebworth. It
was obviously a statement of intent. Theres
a whole thing about them sounding like The
Beatles, but they dont really. They just love
The Beatles songwriting and they love The
Beatles style. They nished their set with I
Am The Walrus. Again, that was a real statement: Were not coy about this Beatles thing.
They courted it. I remember The Chemical
Brothers were on immediately after us. They
were really pissed off because for the rst
three numbers of their set everyone was still
singing Hey Jude.
Martha Lytton Cobbold

Resident of Knebworth House
Oasis stayed in a sort of
glorified caravan at the
bottom of the concert
eld. One of the promoters
rang up and said, Is there
any chance of one of
the boys having a bath?
We said, Absolutely. No
problem at all. So Noel and one of his bandmates came up. We were expecting them
to arrive at the front door. My fatherin-law [Baron Cobbold] was terribly excited
and wanted to greet them very formally.
He was waiting at the front door, but they
went to the back door looking very scruffy.
Everyone assumed they were friends of my sister-in-law. They showed them upstairs to
one of the family bathrooms and when my
father-in-law caught up with them he, of
course, immediately altered that arrangement
and put them in the grandest bathroom
in the house. He demanded to take Noel
in a champagne tray. They assumed he
was our butler-in-waiting. We never told
them any differently until Noel came to do
some more lming here recently. He was telling
the story and he looked over at me and I said,
That was my father-in-law. Noel went, Youre
kidding! Actually, he used a different word...
Crispian Mills
Kula Shaker, support act
My first and most profound memory was that
there was a vast area in
front of the stage, the
size of a football pitch,
and then beyond that
football pitch there was
a long and very wide
barrier. It wasnt until we finished the gig
that we realised that the punters only came
as far as that barrier. In front of the stage,
which was enormous, were just guests VIPs.
It was this strange thing where the [actual

fans] were about 100 metres away from the
stage. I think for most people it wasnt really
about the gig as much as the occasion. It was
a moment, a mad moment in pop music. Oasis
are not, I think theyd probably be the rst to
admit, renowned for being this incredible live
band. Theyre certainly not a stadium band.
It was surreal to watch Oasis play Knebworth
because really they were a club band who
became massive. Theyre not Pink Floyd. Also,
it wasnt Live Aid. There wasnt any great
moral spirit to it or high-mindedness. It was
just a bit of fun, but so was Shea Stadium.
The Beatles took it and used their fame and
inuence to be creative and turn the world
inside out. With Oasis, the engines were
already on re by that point.
Simon Mason
Author
I met Oasis at their
rst London show at The
Water Rats in 1994 in my
capacity as the man who
could help you stay awake
all night. I spent a fair bit of
time in their company over
the next couple of years.
However, by the time they announced the
Knebworth shows I was deeply entrenched in
a heroin addiction. What I did notice, from my
privileged position of sitting in a transit van
with them less than two years previously, going
up to T In The Park and feeling in some very
small way a part of something, was that by the
time Knebworth happened you had a VIP area
and then a VVIP area. You were like, Whats
Tara Palmer-Tomkinson doing at an Oasis
show? They were supposed to be the band of
the people, but my recollection of Knebworth
was that you needed about 25 wristbands to
get into the inner sanctum. I remember thinking, I dont know if I get this anymore. I ended
up having to leave to go and score. Im kind of
glad that I didnt stay. Thats a strange thing to
say, because on the one hand you go, This is
amazing; half the country is trying to get tickets
to this, but on the other hand it takes four
hours to get a pint of warm beer and you have
to be a minor celebrity to get within 100 yards
of the photography pit, let alone the stage and
the band. I think that was the same week that
Bonehead [Oasis guitarist Paul Arthurs] went
to the opening of the Prada handbag shop
on Bond Street. You were thinking, What
the f***s happened here? When I walked out
of the backstage area there was some boy who
mustve been 16 or 17 trying to get his way
into the backstage area. I put my two laminate
passes around his neck and said, Go on. Fill your
boots, son. Theyre all c***s anyway.
OASIS
Did the fans

make it
happen? The
people who
made it happen
were all on our
helicopter
Photographs Getty Images; Jon Gorrigan; Rex
Band of brothers (from top): Noel and Liam Gallagher with Mat Whitecross, director of Supersonic, a new documentary about the Knebworth shows
S TA R T U R N S
Persols Cellor sunglasses date back
to the Fifties and are now available
in the original design. Think classic
Cinecitt style. 182. persol.com
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printsonleather biker jackets
tocrystal embellishments
onluxurybackpacks.
And they are all here
to save our world.
T-shirt by Philipp Plein,

570. plein.com
Backpack by Philipp Plein,
835. plein.com
JIM
CHAPMAN:
Rewrite your routine with a wealth
of bespoke stationery by Smythson
Photographs Nicholas Kay; Jody Todd
V E R S A C E
It can never be said that the Versace man
is backwards at coming forward, thanks to
Donatellas unique brand of maximalism.
This season she is reaching for the stars
with a new collection inspired by
astronomy and astrology. We love the
jewellery as well, which stays true to the
brands DNA with iconic imagery, such
as this Greek key-design ring.
Ring by Versace, 180. versace.com
Jacket by Philipp Plein,

3,970. plein.com
RECENTLY, I was having a conversation with someone who was utterly convinced that
human beings would soon forget the art of handwriting. It would stop being taught at
schools and Times New Roman would be the future of all written communication.
And I see his point. In recent years, people have been taking pen to paper much less
often and there is a greater emphasis on being procient typists at school.
I, for one, write a lot of notes and, when possible, I jot them down on paper. Mostly, these
scrawls are to-do lists, as I nd that adding them to the notes section on my phone doesnt
penetrate my brain in the same way. I have truly terrible handwriting, but there is something about etching words out that seems to cement tasks to memory. Also, the feeling of
scoring through a job once complete is one to which deleting a text cant hold a candle.
Mostly, I write in Biro on scraps of paper, but recently decided to visit the very superior
stationer Smythson Of Bond Street with the aim of upping my game with some bespoke
stationery. It was a luxurious experience and also an educational one. Much like having
a suit made, the depth of choice is staggering. The chances of bumping into another person
who has made the same decisions as you with regards to the type and colour of paper,
font and cover is roughly one in seven billion.
Stationery extends further than just a notepad, so I got some business cards made
too. Social media is my career, which means usually when Im mingling and someone
wants my details, I just point them towards my Twitter or Instagram. While in Smythson,
however, it occurred to me that a business card can speak volumes about its
owner and having a physical object to
give to someone makes you much harder
to forget. I added all of my social media
channels to the card to avoid the awkward
situation of watching my new acquaintance struggle to nd my prole when its
noisy and they cant hear me when I say,
@JIMCHAPMAN, before forcing them
to follow me.
Its definitely worth noting that not
all business cards are created equal.
Sometimes I will nish an evening with
upwards of ten cards from other people
and, for the most part, I wont be able
to recall whose is which. I have found,
though, that a card that is designed well
and complements its owner will dramatically improve my recall, and therefore I
will be much more likely to send an email.
Or maybe now a note.
Writing folder, 4,695. Red notebook, 135. Blue
notebook, 45. All by Smythson. smythson.com
Boots by
DrMartens, 115.
drmartens.com
Dr Martens:
Back in the Eighties when Morrissey was king
and boys carried copies of Derrida in their
backpocket, Dr Martens was the only shoe to
wear. But the once-ubiquitous brand suffered
asetback thanks to trainer culture. Now it has
just introduced the original AirWair DMs Lite.
This new, ultra-lightweight sole, blends athletic
performance with the brands iconic style to
help you walk on air again.
DARK
STARS
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Lets get lost.

The Timberline Valley Collection
The Timberline Valley Collection brings the deep, mossy colors of
the forest to life on our favorite timepieces with brushed metals,
smokey green dials and rich Horween leather.
nixon.com
ARMANI MEETS BUGATTI:
Photographs Jody Todd Grooming Anna Gibson using Caudalie and American Crew Models Austin and Bradley at Nevs
When the
masters of high fashion and sophisticated motoring pool resources for their first
capsule collection, precision-tooled tastefulness is practically guaranteed.
THOSE ITALIANS really do like to
stick together, you know, but when you
have a top-tier collaboration between
fashion giant Giorgio Armani and allconquering car manufacturer Bugatti you
can understand why they like to keep
it in la famiglia. Except that Bugatti, of
course, was founded by an Italian in what
was then Germany and is now France, so
it is the acceptable cross-borders exception that proves the rule.
The Giorgio Armani For Bugatti capsule
collection is as you might imagine all
about luxury, and it discreetly references
motifs from the Bugatti marque, such as
the iconic horseshoe grille and linings
in the famous Bugatti blue. The actual
palette is restricted to cognac, army green
and blue and the materials range from
luxurious cashmere on the sweaters to
extravagant crocodile on the ultimate
rocknroll blazer. The collection even
includes a pair of jeans, on which the
denim is as soft as velvet thanks to
the unique ocking. Now thats luxury
armani.com
for you.
From left: Jacket, 2,950.

Trousers, 790. Sunglasses,
867. Coat, 2,950. Polo shirt,
1,550. Trousers, 500. Bag,
31, 500. All Giorgio Armani
For Bugatti. Watch by
Emporio Armani, 299.
armani.com
Photograph by Olly Burn Stylist Grace Gilfeather
SMART CARDS
When it comes to leather, Aspinal Of
London represents the best of British, with
great pieces such as this slim cardholder in
orange lizard lined with cream suede.
45. aspinaloondon.com
P U T YO U R B E S T F O O T F O R WA R D
These boots were made for walking. But they also look great if you never go outdoors.
Boots by Michael Kors, 430.

michaelkors.com
Boots by Louis Vuitton, 950.

louisvuitton.co.uk
Boots by Moncler, 415.

matchesfashion.com
Boss:
Perhaps the biggest namein mens suiting

isnowreally upping its game with the launch of the new
full-canvas suit range strictly limited to arun of just
1,500pieces. Using the best-quality Italian cloth combined
withprecision German tailoring, the results come intwo
contemporary ts (regular and slim) and a well-edited
choiceof fabrics and colours.
The full canvas represents the bones of a great suit.
Crafted a touch illogically, perhaps in natural camel
hair,aspertrue Savile Row tradition, it allows the jacket to
beexible and drape correctly. Over time, it naturally takes
ontheshape of your body to ensure a better t than even
thebest engineering could promise. hugoboss.com
One of the highlights

ofJunes London
Collections Men
wastheMCM x
Christopher
Raeburn fashion
show. And it is the
backpack that is central
to this luxury leather
goods brand. The
slimline silhouette of this
Luxusbag in elegant
croc-embossed black
leather is the epitome
ofrestrained urban
elegance. Backpack
byMCM, 1,095.
mcmworldwide.com
From left: Suit,

1,100. Shirt, 85.
Trainers, 230. Suit,
1,000. Rollneck,
380. All by Boss.
At Hugo Boss.
hugoboss.com
SHACKED
UP:
Lou Dalton and

Jaegerjoin forces to explore
theirpolar attraction.
Shirt by Lou Dalton x Jaeger,

80. At Jaeger. jaeger.co.uk
Jacket by Lou Dalton x Jaeger,

250. At Jaeger. jaeger.co.uk
Above: Jumper, 120.

Trousers, 120. Both by
Lou Dalton x Jaeger. At
Jaeger. jaeger.co.uk
Photograph Jody Todd
LONDON DESIGNER Lou Dalton has long been

a favourite of GQ, and we claim credit for having
put her in touch with Jaeger to produce this mens
capsule collection that will arrive in-store this month.
And, having seen the fruits of the collaboration, we
can condently say that it was a brilliant idea.
Dalton, an obsessive storyteller, was inspired
by designs she discovered in the Jaeger archive
of actual pieces worn by polar explorer Sir Ernest
Shackleton and his team on the ill-fated Imperial
Trans-Antarctic Expedition in 1914. Dalton has
given the outerwear collection a contemporary
but classic twist to include a nylon trench with
drop-out annel gilet, a shower-proof stretchnylon hooded jacket and a mixed-gauge wool
sweater, as well as a balaclava, gloves and a snood.
Its the perfect kit for the modern adventurer
even if the only ice youre likely to come across
is in your drink.
jaeger.co.uk
massimodutti.com
BRITISH
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ON THE CASE
American bag designer Ui Minkoff
has aims to make the tech nerd
more stylish with his range of
briefcases and backpacks. And the
rest of us could benet, too.
280. At Farfetch. farfetch.com
I have wracked my brains but cant

recall the suggestion that a belt is
unnecessary. Quite the reverse. If
Iforget to put a belt on I feel quite
naked. However, I have to say that
inthis instance (and, I should add,
itismost unlike me to be so liberalminded), Iwouldnt go around foisting
this particular opinion on anyone else.
Ithink if you have belt loops you should
wear a belt, as otherwise they are just
extraneous bits around your waist.
Ithink that what the friend in question
may be thinking of is my penchant for
suit trousers that rely on side-fasteners
STYLE SHRINK
ROBERT JOHNSTON
I recently invested in a double-breasted blazer but then read that only tall
people should wear this type of jacket. As I am on the shorter side, should
I avoid wearing it? Paul-James, via email
Belt by Gucci, 260.

gucci.com
There are many urban myths about how certain things shouldnt be worn by certain body
types and the like. And many of these are just that myths. For example, it used to be
widely believed that while horizontal stripes emphasised any weight issues you might
have, vertical bands would slim you down. In fact, as you might have seen on QI, when
this theory was tested scientically by Dr Peter Thompson at the University Of York,
it turned out that the optical effect was the reverse of this. So dont believe everything
you read on Google (unless, it seems, Stephen Fry is being quoted). What you might
have heard is that double-breasted blazers can make you look wider, which can be less
than ideal if you are lacking in the height department. But the truth is that the classic
DB is a wardrobe staple and can be very attering, too. The peak lapels give your torso
the impression of width that makes you appear more V-shaped. One problem can be that
the overall shape is boxy but most modern styles will be more tted. If you have concerns
about the t, visit a decent tailor and ask for advice. I see absolutely no reason why
you shouldnt wear your new double-breasted blazer with pride.
rather than a belt. This is how most

Savile Row bespoke suits are designed
and I think it looks smarter. With jeans
etc, however, I am a big belt fan and the
bigger the better I have always loved
the line in David Bowies The Width
OfA Circle on The Man Who Sold The
World, where the devil showed... the
leather belt round his hips. And talking
of desire, one of the rst things that
Alessandro Michele did when he took
the reins at Gucci was to update the
double-G logo and make this (above)
the new, cool buckle on the block.
BGK7050 Body Grooming Kit by

Braun, 39.99. At amazon.co.uk
Photograph Jody Todd
EDITED BY
I recently went to a wedding

accompanied by a school
friend who refused to wear
a belt with his suit and blamed you
for his decision, claiming that you
had vetoed them at some point
as unnecessary. He looked foolish.
Did you really say this?
John, via email
I have noticed that a lot of

men now clipper their chest
hair and I imagine beyond.
I am what you might describe as very
hairy so was wondering if I should
do this, too.
Ed, via email
I cant imagine what it must be like for

Ed as I am one of the most hairless
people I have ever met. Indeed, I have
so little body hair that I may be slightly
further up the evolutionary ladder than
the rest of you. Anyway, enough about
Above left:
Blazer by
PaulSmith, 600.
paulsmith.com
me, back to monkey men. We live

inaworld of excessive vanity, so
lookingrough and ready is no longer
acceptable. Look around any gym
changing room and you will quickly
clock that you these days you have
toinvest in some clippers to keep your
body hair in check. Some men feel
itsabit, well, you know, lavender, but
itisbetter to go for a dip in Lake
Metrosexual than to have curly hairs
peeping through your shirt like a waiter
in a Greek taverna. Ask any woman. The
new Braun BGK7050 Body Grooming
Kit comes very highly recommended

and it epilates, trims and shaves so you
can even go bare if you dare. I would
recommend, however, that you dont
gotoo plucked make it look like you
are keeping it under control, if you get
my drift. I wouldnt go as far as waxing,
but if the problem is on the shoulders
and back, then a quick visit to a male
grooming salon should sort you out.
You might also consider keeping the
hair on your head very short, as this
helps balance everything out and will
stop you looking too simian.
BY
Luke Leitch
Crafting nonconformist streetwear with real

swagger, Danish designer Astrid Andersen
ismaking waves all across the capital.
IT IS THE EVE of London Collections Men and Astrid Andersen,
whose show is at 7pm the following day, has been sabotaged by the
haphazard Gatwick Express. Her commute from Copenhagen has
run seriously late and she still has to pick up her collection shoes
as ever lent by Nike, for whom she consults before heading for a
run-through and nally decamping with her team to their Airbnb in
Shoreditch. No worries: Andersen, 31, remains serene and makes time
for rodbetssallad and prawn and egg smorrebrod at Londons excellent
Scandinavian Kitchen. We are here to trace her journey from a small
town in Denmark to becoming one of the most inuential designers
of upscale avant-garde streetwear in the world. Not heard of her?
If you had to boil Astrid Andersens aesthetic down to one
line, then the brief she gave to the graphic designer who
worked on her popular logo works perfectly. I said
I want it to be a mash-up of Everlast and Versace.
Because thats what I do, I guess.
London, LCM and Lulu Kennedy of the capitals Man menswear incubator have all played
key roles in her rise. As has Andersens mother,
plus a rich seam of hip hop tastemakers from
Nas to A$AP Ferg. But perhaps the greatest
architect of Andersens fortune apart
from herself is a man called Lasse. So
lets rewind.
Andersen was raised in Vejle a town of
60,000 in the southeast of the Jutland peninsula and was always particular about
clothes. I could never nd clothes I felt
comfortable with. I didnt want dresses
Shoot from the hip: Andersen

(above right) and her rap- and
basketball-inspired collections
for AW16 and SS17
Jumper by Astrid Andersen,
320. astridandersen.com
Photographs Helle Moos; Jody Todd
BEST
OF
BRITISH
because I always played more with the

boys. But I didnt want to wear boys
clothes either. So I started telling my
mother what I wanted and she would
make it for me.
This refusal to conform to established
categories would eventually contribute
to Andersens success. But first there
was Lasse. He was my rst boyfriend.
And he was a basketball player. So I was
introduced to that scene when I was 13
years old. As she talks hoops, Andersen
enthuses. Its the whole way they carry
I wanted
themselves. And, you know, basketball is
my logo to
probably the only sport where what they
be a mash-up
wear makes no sense in terms of function
of Everlast
it is a style choice.
and Versace.
A decade down the line (following
Because thats
a year after school working behind the
what I do
bar in a Piccadilly pub, then learning
fashion in Denmark) Andersen made it to
the Royal College Of Art in London. On her previous course, teachers
had compelled her to consider the tradition of tailoring in her work
but Andersen wasnt that interested. At the RCA they urged her to
follow her passion for sportswear and hip hop culture. That was very
liberating, she says. Suddenly I didnt have to tick boxes to conform.
And from there, well, everything happened really fast.
Right off the bat, following her graduate show in 2010, Andersen
found an audience. That collection majored on luxed-up, fur-trimmed
devor basketball shorts and vests, because for me those are the
sexiest pieces a guy can wear. Buyers agreed and Andersen produced
the collection before returning to Denmark for her rst show as an
independent designer. Which is when Lulu Kennedy called: She said
what are you doing in Copenhagen? You need to be in London! After
showing with Man, Andersen was handed a spot on the LCM schedule. And everything has just rolled on from there.
Early in her rise, just after she had commissioned her logo, the rapper
Nas wore her pieces in a shoot. When I saw that I felt like all the dots
that dened where I wanted to go were joining up. Ive always found
what rappers wear inspiring. Im drawn to the condence they have to
bring to their performance and how clothes contribute to that. Then there
was the new wave of artists like Rocky, Ferg and all the A$AP guys,
who are so interested in fashion and want to redene how they look.
An element of the Andersen proposition that appeals to her fans is
the boldness with which she heaps richness and ourishes such
as fur, lace and silk embroidery on to streetwear. Even if you
just buy a logo T-shirt, youre buying into a sense of sensuality. Its not that Andersen dislikes tailoring, however,
its more that its not relevant to her. These clothes
are so ingrained in our generation now, she says.
Theyre not going to go away, because they are
part of our lifestyle. The tracksuit is now a piece
thats going to be in the wardrobe forever like
the tailored suit. Or at least it will be for the boys
that I nd interesting.
astridandersen.com
G Partnership
Scenes from
Room No.8,
an immersive
theatrical and
dining experience
staged by GQ and
The Ritz-Carlton
IMMERSE YOURSELF
IN THE RITZ-CARLTON
The outstanding service provided for guests at
The Ritz-Carlton hotels often dees belief, and its now
being celebrated in a new immersive theatre experience
A swimsuit-clad actress is wringing sea water
out of her hair while images of turtles and sea
anemones are projected across surrounding
walls and mirrors. Over the sound system you
can hear splashing waves, the gurgle of
bubbles, and cawing seagulls. Seven guests
look on bemused as they dine on lobster
bisque and Caribbean cocktails. What on
earth is going on?
Unusual though it sounds, what they are all
witnessing is the theatrical re-enactment of
real-life events that had happened at The
Ritz-Carlton hotels in Cancn, Los Angeles
and Muscat, Oman. At the latter, for
example, one of the hotel guests had lost his
underwater camera in the ocean. Hotel staff
(or Ladies And Gentlemen, as they are
known) had gone diving and found it for him.
Even more unusual is the fact that this
Room No.8
was staged in
a discreet gallery
space near Londons
Covent Garden
re-enactment is being played out in a gallery

space near Londons Covent Garden.
Its all part of a collaboration between GQ
and The Ritz-Carlton, called Room No.8
an immersive theatrical and dining
experience that was staged for special guests
during the summer. Those guests enjoyed a
thrilling sensory experience of food, drink,
theatre, dance, sound and light. Among the
experts involved in the project were
Bernardo Varela and Karl Sadler, who have
previously worked on music videos for the
likes of Beyonc and The xx.
The rest of the 15-minute show comprised
scenes based on other real-life stories about
The Ritz-Carlton Ladies And Gentlemen who,
at one time or another, have helped their
hotel guests. Such as the day they joined in
planting forest trees in Spain (Hotel Arts,
Barcelona), or when they enabled a younger
guest to perform in a piano concert (The
Ritz-Carlton, San Juan), or when they
salvaged a guests wedding plans threatened
by a freakish blizzard (The Ritz-Carlton,
Philadelphia). All proof of the extraordinary
lengths they will go to in their efforts to make
every hotel visit extra-special. ritzcarlton.com
The Ritz-Carlton
has more than
90 hotels around
the world including
The Ritz-Carlton,
Cancn (above top)
and Hotel Arts,
Barcelona (above).
ritzcarlton.com
Note Di Colonia I, II and

III eau de cologne by
Acqua Di Parma, 280
each for 150ml. At
Harrods. harrods.com
GROOMING:
Upgrade
yourcolognes with the latest offerings from
AcquaDi Parma and Prada. Plus, cut out
the middleman with a shaving subscription
that delivers razors to your door.
EDITED BY
JESSICA PUNTER
PHOTOGRAPHS BY
WA S H AWAY C I T Y G R I M E
Air pollution is the skins number
one enemy. Fight back with this
extra-deep cleansing mask.
Urban Blue Detox Clay Mask by
Lab Series Skincare for Men,
26 for 100ml.
labseries.co.uk
MITCH PAYNE
t was a trip to
London (and
GeoF Trumper)
that inspired
Count Carlo
Magnani
tocreatehis
ownscent that
reected the
personality of
Italian style. Onhis return
toParma he created
AcquaDiParma Colonia
andwent on to sellhis
signature cologne exclusively
through boutique Italian
tailors. Its hard to believe
that was 100 years ago
because Colonia looks and
smells as relevant today as
ithas ever done.
For a fragrance that has
never relied on splashy
marketing campaigns,
likesonsocial media or
boasting about its famous
fans (such as Cary Grant),
itmust be good to have
survived and continued
tothrive for an entire
centuryalmost entirely
onword-of-mouth and
passing between generations.
Today, the brand prefers
toalign itself with high-brow
Italian culture over celebrity
faces. Guests at the three-day
centenary celebrations in
Parma in May watched
performances by ballet
dancer Roberto Bolle and
aperformance by actor
Massimiliano Finazzer
Floryas Giuseppe Verdi.
To celebrate this
impressivemilestone,
AcquaDi Parma has
createdNote DiColonia,
athree-piece collection
inuenced by Italian opera.
Note Di Colonia I is inspired
by Verdis La Traviata, II by
Puccinis Nessun Dorma
from Turandot and III by
theMarcia Trionfale in
VerdisAida. And just like
anopera, they build with
intensity over three acts.
Choose from the lighter
notesof bergamot, neroli
andlavender in I to
sandalwood and gaiac in
IItothe deeper notes of
olibanum, tonka bean and
cistus labdanum in III. The
labels are hand-applied,
theribbons hand-tied
andtheacon is modelled
onthe veryrst bottle
thatthe original Colonia
camein.
If we had to guess what
our great-great-grandson
might wear 100 years from
now, wed put our money
onAcqua Di Parma. JP
Save on your shave

So we keep hearing that men are shaving less,
but that didnt stop Unilever shelling out an
eye-popping $1 billion (760 million) for Dollar
Shave Club (the US-based razor subscription
service launched off the back of a viral
YouTube video) earlier this year. Its a condent
move and a reminder that for every bearded
hipster in Williamsburg, or Shoreditch for that
matter, theres a few more men out there who
still shave and without setting foot in a shop.
Plus, lets face it, shaving clubs are growing
because who doesnt like a regular discount on
their razors with a hassle-free service thrown
in? Sign up here...
1.Grum
This edgling grooming service launches this

month and offers a comprehensive range of
own-brand shaving products, moisturisers,
cleansers and even beard care for non-shavers,
along with its own-brand razors, all available
inkits tailored to your needs you can even
pick the colour of the razor handle. From 6.
gruum.com
2.Gillette Club
Gillette has hooked up with the big retailers to

deliver blades direct to your door for the best
price. Head to gillette.co.uk/gillette_club,
choose your favourite (Mach 3, Fusion,
ProGlide or ProShield), select your frequency
and then shop for the best deal via Amazon,
Superdrug or shaveandsubscribe.co.uk.
3.Cornerstone
Here you can sign up as a daily, now

andthen or not often shaver, and by
addingthevery reasonably priced natural
facescrub, shave gel and post-shave
balm,youcan get the full barbershop
experience for30 in minimal, recyclable
packaging. JP From 14 a week for six
blades.cornerstone.co.uk
PRADA:
Stand out from the crowd with a

newsignature scent built around peerless basenotes.
CONVENTIONAL is not exactly a word
we associate with Prada, so when we
heard there was a new mens fragrance in
the pipeline we had a hunch it wouldnt
be another of the predictable me too
kind. Prada is a universe that I perfectly
understand and relate to, says Daniela
Andrier, the perfumer behind LHomme
Prada, the brands new scent for men. I
consider myself to be like a translator and
if I understand a brand I love to translate
that into smell.
No stranger to mens fragrances,
Andrier has worked on countless other
Prada creations that have come from her
long-standing collaboration with label chief

Miuccia Prada.
Prada has never had a clich vision of a
man, she continues, which goes some way to
explain the prominent notes of iris and amber
in LHomme Prada, which rarely appear in the
traditional fougre (the classic template for
most modern mens fragrances), but fans will
recognise as a common signature in many other
Prada scents. Mixed with neroli, geranium and
patchouli it smells manly, but, you know, just
not like every other bloke out there. JP
LHomme Prada eau de toilette by Prada,
69 for 100ml. At Selfridges. selfridges.com
The G Preview:October
E D I T E D BY
HOLLY ROBERTS
3
7
1
Shoes by GH Bass, 130. ghbass-eu.com 2
Jumper by Brunello Cucinelli, 780. brunellocucinelli.com
Dylan Blue fragrance by Versace, 100ml for 66. At Harrods. harrods.com 4
Jacket by Original Penguin, 140. originalpenguin.co.uk
5
Watch by Larsson & Jennings, 325. larssonandjennings.com 6
Shirt by New Look Men, 24.99. newlook.com
Trainers by Churchs, 250. church-footwear.com 8
Jacket by H&M Studio, 59.99. hm.com 9
Shoes by Clarks, 95. clarks.co.uk
Junior Retail Editor Michiel Steur
Bringing you the very latest in fashion, grooming, watches, news and exclusive events
PREVIEW
We love
Photograph Sun Lee
Laid-back luxe by Dior Homme

Menswear is loosening up, and at the forefront of this movement
in luxury fashion is Kris van Assche, creative director at Dior Homme.
In his latest collection he questions the traditional perception of
luxury by taking inspiration from low-key skater style, while
maintaining the houses sophisticated craftsmanship. With
embroidered jeans, cashmere sweaters and quilted nylon
accessories, the skate ramp has never looked so good.
Trainers, 490. Jeans, 700. Shoes, 670. Sweatshirt, 1,650. Belt,
490. Sunglasses, 300. Bag, 1,050. All by Dior Homme. dior.com
PREVIEW
WATCH AND
JEWELLERY WEEK
3 - 7 OCTOBER
Head to The Royal
Exchange and enjoy
brands including:
Bremont, Boodles,
Georg Jensen,
Herms, Links Of
London, Montblanc,
Omega, Tateossian,
Theo Fennell,
Tiffany & Co, Watches
Of Switzerland and
Watchnder.
1. Regatta AC in
Stainless Steel by
Bremont, 4,995
WEDNESDAY
5 OCTOBER
6PM 8.30PM
2. Constellation
Globemaster by Omega,
4,750. At Watchnder
3. East West 2-Hand by

Tiffany & Co, 3,050
GQ Reader Event
Edited by Holly Roberts
Join Team GQ at The Royal Exchange for the ultimate watch and jewellery shopping event
Located in the heart of the City
of London, The Royal Exchange
was opened by Elizabeth I in
1571 and is today one of the
capitals top destinations for
luxury watches and jewellery.
On Wednesday 5 October
between 6pm 8.30pm, as part
of the Royal Exchanges annual
Watch And Jewellery Week,
GQ will be hosting an exclusive
event for readers. To give a
avour of whats on offer at the
Royal Exchange, GQs editors will
be doing an exclusive edit of the
very best of the best, where you
can join us to enjoy our top picks
and get an insight into the
timepieces that truly make us

tick. So come along to meet the
team and hear what we have to
say while shopping at your
leisure and indulging in a
selection of canaps and
bubbles. To whet your appetite,
heres an exclusive preview of
our top picks that will be
available to buy on the night.
Building on its renowned
partnership with the Americas
Cup, (1) Bremont has created
the latest addition to its
chronograph collection, the
Regatta AC in Stainless Steel.
Designed with the importance of
the countdown functionality
when racing in mind, this

timepiece delivers in both style
and substance.
Watchnder prides itself on
reclaiming beautiful pre-owned
watches and this (2) Omega
Constellation Globemaster is no
exception. Boasting a 39mm steel
and rose gold case, blue baton
dial and crocodile bracelet, it
epitomises timeless style.
For a contemporary take on
classic sophistication, head to
(3) Tiffany & Co to bag yourself
the East West 2-Hand 25mm.
Blending both elegance and edge,
this stainless steel and alligator
design is destined to become an
eveningwear essential. On top

of the nest watch selection,
The Royal Exchange will present
the very best in luxury jewellery
by prestigious brands such as
Tateossian and Theo Fennell.
The perfect addition to your new
timepiece, yet still special enough
to stand out on their own.
TICKETS ARE LIMITED

AND WILL BE ALLOCATED
ON A FIRST-COME
FIRST-SERVED BASIS
REGISTER AT
rsvptheroyalexchange
@condenast.co.uk
Ditch the
tie to make
your suit
instantly
after-hours
appropriate
Mac, 39.99. Blazer,
59.99. Shirt, 12.99.
Trousers, 24.99.
Socks (pack of ve),
7.99. Shoes, 44.99.
All by New Look Men.
newlook.com
T H E
R U L E S
O F
S T Y L E
With dress codes becoming ever more uid, the traditional
guidelines of getting ready no longer apply. Weve teamed
up with New Look Men to rewrite the rules
STYLING BY
Holly Roberts
G Partnership
Win winter:
slip a track jacket
under your
tailored coat
Coat, 74.99. Track top,
19.99. Vest, 4.99.
Jeans, 29.99.
newlook.com
Bomber jacket,
39.99. T-shirt, 4.99.
Joggers, 19.99.
newlook.com
G Partnership
Bomber jacket, 39.99.

Shirt, 19.99. Trousers,
19.99. Trainers,
29.99. Bag, 29.99.
newlook.com
Blazers are the

ultimate smart
casual dress
code cracker
Blazer, 39.99. Jumper,
19.99. T-shirt, 4.99.
Trousers, 14.99.
newlook.com
G Partnership
Texture adds
a rugged
edge to tonal
winter layers
Jacket, 59.99.
Jumper, 24.99.
T-shirt, 4.99.
Trousers, 24.99.
newlook.com
Grooming Michael Gray

at David Artists using Verso
skincare and Bumble And
Bumble Haircare
Model Guy Robinson at
Squad Model Management
T HE NE W
AUDI R8
T H E F U T U R E S B R I G H T,
THE FUTURES SOLAR ORANGE
How to actually drive like a Le Mans racer // The fastest quattros of all time //
Am I there yet? Taken for a ride by a self- drive A7
THE MEASURE
OF A MAN
I S W H AT H E
DOES WITH
P OW E R
So said Plato (as in the Greek
philosopher, not Jason the British
racing driver and TV personality)
and, some 2,400 years after he
wrote it, his wise words sparked a
debate around this very subject in
the GQ Power ofce.
Is there such a thing as too
much power?
In the 21st century, who
can handle power better: man or
machine?
Can the control, harnessing and
handling of power be taught?
And, if you have a car that can
travel from 0-62mph in 3.2
seconds, is it ever acceptable to
demonstrate that power at a set
of trafc lights?
Hopefully between us and Audi,
over the next 20 pages we will
have the answers to these
questions and be able to convince
you with our reasoned arguments,
compelling discourse and
enlightened perspective.
Or, as Plato put it in relation to
our cover star, the Audi R8: This
car is gobsmacking. Ave some of
that! (That was Jason.)
THE MIGHTY
GERMAN
POWER
RANGERS
Audis stake in the power game isnt something it shouts about. Yes, it builds
monumentally fast cars, but most of the time theyre only distinguishable by
wheel arches that look like theyve had a mild allergic reaction, and a little red
RS badge. So here, for the rst time ever, we run down some of its discreet
achievements in the horsepower arms race.
Editor-in-Chief Dylan Jones

Editor Paul Henderson
Art Director Warren Jackson
Chief Sub-Editor George Chesterton
Managing Editor Mark Russell
Contributors Jason Barlow,
Ailis Brennen, Charlie Burton,
Alex Godfrey, Matt Jones
Publisher Vanessa Kingori
Business Manager Michiel Steur
Cover photograph Alex Howe
paul henderson, editor
This concept
car, built for the
spangly 2013
Frankfurt Motor
Show, carries
the weight of
the classic 1983
quattro concept
on its shoulders,
but theyre plenty
broad enough. As
well as a 552bhp
4.0-litre petrol V8
engine, theres
AUDI SPORT
QUAT TRO CONCEP T
690bhp
an electric motor
hidden between
the engine and
transmission
adding the
remaining 138bhp.
All it needs now is
a Group B rallying
reprisal and
someone to dust
off Walter Rrhl.
AUDI R18
1000bhp
This is Ingolstadt muscle
at its most severe meet
the most powerful Audi
race car ever created.
Honed from more than
a decade of top-tier
endurance racing
know-how, this Le Mans
Prototype combines a
turbocharged 4.0-litre V6
diesel engine and electric
motor to devastating
effect. During testing, this
875kg death star made
more than 1,000bhp
before it even entered
the 24-hour race. Theres
no reason to give the rest
of the grid a chance...
AUDI
RS6
PERFORMANCE
597bhp
The number of rivals this vastly powerful,
four-wheel drive estate has can be counted
on the ngers of no hands, but its far better
than a car with no competition needs to be.
The 597bhp wagon gets from 0-62mph in
3.7 seconds and on to 189mph, but lets let
those numbers live thats an exact match
for the Ferrari 458 Speciale, and you cant
get a Labrador with all its legs attached in
the boot of that.
AUDI SPORT
QUAT TRO S1 E2
591bhp
One of the many wonderful things about this uncompromisingly psychopathic evolution of Audis rally icon is that nobody really knew quite how much power it
could make. Thanks to some clever turbocharging tech and malleable rallying regs, it made anything north of 591bhp, depending who you asked. That got the
short-wheelbase 1,090kg car to 62mph in just 3.1 seconds, carving four rings into the motor sport history books.
AUDI RS5 DTM

500bhp
AUDI R8
The Deutsche Tourenwagen Masters is a German race series in which the

nations biggest premium carmakers race some deeply fast, deeply terrifying
versions of their road-going models. Naturally, Audi has a big presence. The
4.0-litre V8 RS5 DTM may only pack 500bhp, but the hand-built mostly
carbon racer weights a pifing 1,110kg and, as you
can see, gets rather a lot of downforce.
matt jones
602bhp
Its one of modern civilisations all-time best ways of getting
somewhere sitting down and, if you prod it, itll get you there in
a deliciously uncivilised fashion. The 5.2-litre, naturally aspirated
V10 engine, featherweight 1,555kg mass and quattro all-wheel
drive system dispatches the 0-62mph sprint in 3.2 seconds and
it wont stop until it hits 205mph, all while youre ensconced in
leather-lined luxury.
On the right road, its playfulness at

low speed is matched only by its balance
as the speedo reaches three gures
6
FROM THE RACE TRACK TO

HOLLYWOOD, THE GAME-CHANGING AUDI R8
IS THE EVERYDAY SUPERCAR THAT
CONTINUES TO SET NEW STANDARDS
TEN YEARS AFTER IT REVVED
ON TO OUR ROADS
Photographs by
Alex Howe
BODY OF PROOF
The shell of the R8, which,
when completed, can reach
speeds of 205mph, making
it the fastest road-going
Audi ever built
DREAM FACTORY
Opened in 2014, the
Audi Bllinger Hfe in
Heilbronn, south-west
Germany, is where the
R8 is assembled and
tested to perfection
Can it really be a decade since the R8 arrived?

Trailed by 2003s visionary Le Mans concept
and a starring role in the Will Smith movie
I, Robot, Audis 21st-century rebirth reached
a zenith for me personally on a road roughly
an hours drive outside Las Vegas.
Sin Citys neon was a glitzy sideshow to a car
that was instantly as brilliant as anything Audi
had ever previously magicked up. Honestly,
a few roundabouts near Milton Keynes would
have done the trick. Still, Red Rock Canyon
looked great that day; the rust-coloured
landscape serving up the sort of roads America
isnt supposed to be any good at fast and
undulating, decent but not over-long straights
punctuated with sweeping fourth-gear corners
and trickier hairpins. Billiard-table-smooth
surfaces intermingled with tarmac that
wouldnt have passed muster on the moon.
Only the best could survive this sort of test

and the R8 was mighty.
At one point we were airborne over a crest,
yet the R8s expertly calibrated suspension just
shrugged it off. The all-new mid-engined Audi
supercar might have looked like a showbiz
spaceship, but as well as a paddle-shifting
semi-auto the new orthodoxy it was also
available with an old-fashioned and six-speed
manual gearbox. And a while later, the V10
version arrived.
Maybe it shouldnt have been that much
of a surprise. Back in 2007, Audi was mid-way
through a domination of endurance racing,
and 24 Hours Of Le Mans in particular, that
motorsport titans like Ferrari may never
match (nine wins, the last in 1965), and was
challenging even Porsches tally (to date, 18
plays 13). Le Mans remains a laboratory that
is ideal for developing new technologies,
Audis head of motorsport Dr Wolfgang Ullrich
told me. The relevance for production cars is
always of great importance for us.
Success at the top level of endurance racing
wasnt the only impetus for the original R8,
although it was the most conspicuous. Audi
knew it had work to do on its driver appeal,
too. Despite a history stretching back to
the fearsome Auto Union Grand Prix cars
that dominated motorsport in the Thirties
(engineered by one Ferdinand Porsche before

he launched his own company), and the arrival
of the all-wheel drive quattro coup in 1980
(developed by Porsches grandson and future
Volkswagen Group chief, Ferdinand Pich),
Audis reputation for driving entertainment
had wobbled. Beautifully engineered and
better built than any other brand, yes, but
saddled with narcotic steering and leaden
chassis dynamics.
The R8 represented a signicant step-change
for the company, says Roland Schala, head of
project management, Audi R8. It was our rst
super sports car with quattro and a mid-engined
layout. It had the task to increase the sportiness
and prestige of the Audi brand. A memorable
moment occurred the rst time we presented
the R8 at a dynamic test drive to our board of
management that was an important milestone
Illustration Bruno Betti
Audi occupies a unique

position. With the R8
we are giving the Audi
brand an even more
progressive character
for us. The R8 project really started to grow

prior to this it was a small project with a small
number of people working on it.
After that, the R8s mission was demanding
but clearly delineated. Our cars are never
brazen in their styling but neither do they
deny their performance potential, Schala
continues. Audi occupies a unique position,
more than ever before. With the R8 we have
continued to sharpen our prole with the
aim of giving the Audi brand an even more
progressive character.
In 2016, the sharpening and shapeshifting
has become sharper still. That DIY gearbox
has gone, as has the entry-level 4.2-litre V8.
The choice now is between two versions of
the excellent 5.2-litre V10, the lesser of which
runs a mere 533bhp, while the V10 Plus makes
602bhp at a thrilling 8,250rpm. That equates
to a top speed of 205mph, and a 0-62mph time
of 3.2 seconds, making it the fastest road-going
Audi ever. In fact, there arent many cars that
can break the double-tonne, so the R8 V10Plus now takes its place alongside a permavaping Leo DiCaprio and La Seydoux in the
VIP inner circle of your dreams. Meanwhile,
rival everyday supercar manufacturers will
be having nothing but nightmares.
Props also to Audi for sticking to normal
aspiration when everyone else is inging
themselves headlong down the turbocharging

route. Tightening emissions rules and the
desire for more socially acceptable levels of
fuel consumption have made this unavoidable,
but Audi has managed to persist with a freebreathing engine in its banzai supercar. The
V10 engine is the most powerful engine
Audi has ever built. It is characterised by its
linear response and a wide range of available
power, says Schala with possibly unintended
understatement. The V10 is a very accessible
motor at all speeds you have immediate
control of the power delivery.
No kidding. The Audis seven-speed auto
is as seductive as it is scientic. Its harnessed
to an all-wheel drive system that uses an
electronically actuated multi-plate clutch
to channel all 602bhp to the rear wheels
when youre on a dry road, elevating the
entertainment experience to 8K Imax levels
of intimacy and interactivity. When you dont
fancy your chances against Mother Nature,
the R8 brings the front axle into play, offering
face-bending levels of grip even in a monsoon.
In fact, safety car driver and former Le Mans
winner Yannick Dalmas gave a perfect
though improvised demonstration of this
during a rain-sodden Thursday night practice
session ahead of this years Le Mans, when he
hit a wall of water exiting the Dunlop Bridge.
Keeping the R8 on the island is a task made
much easier thanks to a mostly aluminium
chassis, although theres carbon bre in the
transmission tunnel and rear rewall. The
latest R8 is 40 per cent stiffer while being

up to 50kg lighter than its predecessor, and
also shares half of its componentry with its
endurance racing iteration. The road and GT3
race versions were co-developed, which says
much for the synergies described by Dr Ullrich.
The R8s powertrain really is a gem, each
ick of the gearshift paddles dropping you into
a never-ending vat of power and torque. If you
can nd the right road, or better still racetrack,
the cars playfulness at low speed is matched
only by its sublime balance as the speedo goes
deep into three gures, and its aerodynamic
cleverness manifests itself without you even
noticing. It has downforce. A nod, too, to the
R8s carbon ceramic brakes and unbelievable
laser LED headlights; as much as I enjoy
nudging a car up to the fabled ragged edge,
I also like arriving home again in one piece.
In terms of ease-of-use, the R8 is as userfriendly as it is fast.
Its also fun at zero mph. Thats the speed
I recommend until such time as youve fully
mastered the virtual cockpit, which uses
Nvidia processing repower to perform
8.5 billion calculations per second. This gives
the driver a sat-nav display of supernatural
clarity, and the ability to cycle through
various media and entertainment modes,
including a blistering audio system. Although
it has its work cut out challenging the sonic
reworks generated by that 10-cylinder
engine, whether youre in Red Rock Canyon
or Runnymede. jason barlow
GRAND BEST AUTO

A u t o U n i o n Ty p e C ( 1 9 3 6 )
SEVENTY YEARS BEFORE THE R8, DID AUDI INVENT THE SUPERCAR?
More than 20 years before it
was taken up in Formula One,
German engineering pioneer
Ferdinand Porsche relocated
the engine from the front to
the middle to create the allconquering Auto Union Grand
Prix cars, optimising weight
distribution, performance
and traction. When Hans
Stuck hit the Avus track in
Berlin in 1934 in the Type A,
he immediately set a new
world speed record, and he
later reached 199mph on
an Italian autostrada driving

a remarkable streamlined
version of the car. Two years
later, the Type C featured
avast 6.0-litre, 16-cylinder
engine, and produced
520bhp. Auto Unions won
25 races between 1935
and 1937, and were driven
by some of the greatest
namesinmotorsport, Tazio
Nuvolari, Bernd Rosemeyer
and Achille Varzi among
them. Superhuman, the lot
ofthem. jb
SECRET FORMULA
Bernd Rosemeyer (1909-1938) on his way to winning the Donington Grand Prix in 1937 in an
Auto Union Type C. He died the following year during a land speed record attempt
HANDS-FREE CALLING
(Clockwise from
main) Autonomous
driving in the Audi
A7; activation via
the steering wheel;
the LEDs that
display the system
AUTONOMOUS CARS ARE ON THEIR WAY, SO GQ POWER

TAKES A RIDE WITH THE COMPUTERS THAT CAN DRIVE BETTER
THAN MOST HUMANS. SIT BACK AND RELAX
CRUISING down the Autobahn on
a sunny Wednesday afternoon,
I glance for one last time at the
cars around me, take a deep
breath and lift my hands off the
steering wheel. Were on the A9,
the main artery between Munich
and Berlin, and today its packed.
I check the speedometer its
just hit 120kmh then watch
apprehensively as we drift into
the fast lane. Yet this is probably
the safest part of the trip: the car
is intelligently driving itself.
Inside the boot of this
converted Audi A7 Sportback,
known affectionately to its
creators as Jack, is a computer
10
analysing data from six

radar sensors, two lasers and
ve cameras integrated into
the chassis. This allows it
to accurately read the road
situation and react accordingly.
Not that the system cuts out
human input entirely. Jack only
offers to activate autopilot on
motorways, where there are
clear road markings and limited
trafc variables. You still have
to set the route on the cockpits
video display and drive manually
until an alert indicates that
autonomous driving is available.
Want to switch it on? Just press
two buttons on the steering
wheel simultaneously. A tone will

sound as a row of LEDs below
the windscreen turn turquoise
and the steering wheel retreats
a few centimetres from your grip.
Then sit back, read your emails
or just gaze out over the Bavarian
countryside. Doesnt matter
Jacks in charge.
Our autonomous experience
lasts for eight minutes until we
have to leave the motorway and
return to Audi HQ at Ingolstadt,
near Munich. In that time, Jack
has reached its capped speed
limit (130kmh), effortlessly
overtaken other vehicles, slowed
as we approached trafc and
negotiated merging lanes with

a certain, well, politesse. As
someone who has only recently
passed my test and never
driven on the Continent before
I cant help thinking, when
the time comes to take back
control, that I trust Jack rather
more than myself. And thats
exactly the point. Autonomous
cars, which have lurked in the
technological imagination since
early experiments as far back as
the Thirties, claim safety as their
standout virtue. Human error
via distraction, misjudgment and
aggression all of that can be
removed from the equation. They
Past, present and future
2009
A driverless Audi
TTS sets a world
speed record
for autonomous
vehicles of
210kmh on the
Bonneville Salt
Flats of Utah.
2010
2013
2014
A piloted Audi TTS

called Shelley
conquers Pikes
Peak, driving
its 156 curves
using a GPS with
an error margin
of only 2cm.
At the Consumer
Electronics Show
(CES) in Las
Vegas, an Audi
A7 is displayed,
demonstrating
parking and trafc
jam autonomy.
A driverless
Audi RS7
named Bobby
completes a hot
lap of the German
Hockenheimring
track in just over
two minutes.
also have the potential benets

of reducing trafc congestion and
lowering carbon emissions. Thats
why manufacturers from Toyota
to BMW, Ford to Mercedes,
alongside tech companies such
as Google and Tesla, are all
working on their own versions.
Audi doesnt expect Jacks
motorway pilot function
to translate into commercial
vehicles for another eight to
ten years and imagines that
a more advanced city pilot for
use within urban areas is yet
further off. However, it will drip
feed situation-specic systems
into their cars starting with
2017s Audi A8, which will offer

a trafc jam pilot for driving
autonomously in congestion.
The technology we saw today,
according to Markus Hoffmann,
Audis pre-development engineer
of automated driving functions,
still has a way to go. One ongoing
problem, for instance, is truck
behaviour on the Autobahn.
In Germany theyre indicating
and changing position at the
same time, he says. So from one
second to the other the situation
is changing totally. The answer
is to help the computer make
predictions; just as people
observe a car driving close to
the lane marking and expect an
imminent manoeuvre, so Jack is
learning to read the same cues.
At the moment were driving
with a lot of human drivers
around us, so Jack thats the
reason we gave him a name has
to behave like a human. Indeed,
Jack, according to journalists
who have tried other companies
equivalents, is remarkable for its
smooth, un-robotic driving style.
Condence in the safety of
autonomous vehicles, however,
recently took a knock. In
May, a Tesla in Florida had
an accident that left its driver
dead. It was the rst ever
2015
A piloted Audi
A7 drives itself
the 900km
distance from
San Francisco
to Las Vegas in
time to appear at
the years CES.
2017
The Audi
A8 will offer
customers a
trafc jam pilot
feature to allow
for autonomous
driving during
congestion.
fatality involving an autopiloted

vehicle. However, commentators
point out that while there is
one death on average per 100
million miles driven in the US,
so far autonomous driving has
accumulated 130 million miles,
vindicating articial intelligence.
When we meet, a week before
the tragic news, Hoffmann is at
pains to emphasise Jacks safety
measures. A secondary algorithm
also analyses the sensor data.
The computer checks its ndings
against those of the primary
driving algorithm, so if theres
a mismatch ie, evidence of
a fault the car can move to
a safe position. Jacks able to do
emergency brakes and everything
else thats needed.
Still, if an accident were to
happen, whos responsible the
driver or the car company?
Christian Hartmann, Audis
spokesperson for piloted driving,
says that aviation has provided a
solution. Therell be a so-called
black box which will record how
everything happened.
2024
A motorway
pilot feature
will become a
commercially
available and
optional extra
for all future
Audi models.
The other perennial debate is:

people love driving, so do they
actually want this technology in
the rst place? Hoffmann elds
this one. Our customers like to
drive in a lot of situations but,
for example, if you drove for the
last three hours in a trafc jam
and its really boring, now you
can turn the pilot on and do side
tasks like watch a football game.
The enduring appeal of sitting
at the wheel is precisely why he
doesnt believe that in the future
roads will look much different.
Although the Seventies imagined
cities adopting vacuum tubes
and maglev tarmac, Hoffmann
thinks the major overhaul will
happen in the prosaic arena
of parking. Multi-storey car
parks will have elevators to take
autonomous vehicles to dedicated
oors, where they will be able
to park themselves better than
a human could. So we wont
change the infrastructure that
far, he predicts. We will just
have a safer environment.
charlie burton
If youre in a trafc jam and its really

boring, now you can turn the pilot on
and watch a football game
11
IF ANYONE KNOWS ABOUT

DRIVING IN DIFFICULT
CONDITIONS, IT IS AUDI
SPORT RACING DRIVER
IF OLIVER JARVIS. FRESH FROM
MAKING IT ON TO THE PODIUM
AT THE 24 HOURS OF LE MANS
2016, GQ POWER PICKED
THE BRAINS OF THE BRITISH
ENDURANCE RACER TO FIND
OUT HOW TO DRIVE LIKE
A LE MANS PROFESSIONAL
ON AND OFF THE TRACK
GQ POWER: Throughout the 24-hour race
period, how do you cope with the fatigue?
OLIVER JARVIS: People think of it as
24 hours, but actually from when we get up
on the Saturday morning to when we go to
bed on Sunday night, its actually 40 hours.
Before the race starts we take part in a warm
up, then there are interviews and press before
the race itself starts. During the race we do
try and sleep, but its so difcult you dont
have long enough to leave the circuit so we
try to sleep at the track, but with the constant
noise of the cars its hard. Also, even though
youre not driving, it is still your car out on
the track, and so youre naturally interested.
You want to know how it is getting on and
whats happening. Its so difcult to switch
off and to really get some quality sleep.
When youre racing, do you actually
feel tired?
I think thats the great thing about adrenaline:

when youre in the car youre so focused,
and the adrenaline is pumping, you dont feel
tired at all. If you did, it really would be an
issue, because thats when you start to make
mistakes, and mistakes in Le Mans can be the
difference between winning the race or ending
up in the wall.
Taking breaks and making sure you are eating
and drinking well must be vital
The body needs to stay hydrated, but you

also need fuel to stay concentrated because
to focus in a race car or any car for that length
of time requires energy. You are burning

calories; people dont realise but its extremely
physical. Its draining, not just physically,
but mentally.
What about coping with the changing driving
conditions do you change your driving style
to adapt to that?
I love driving in the dark. Its amazing,

especially at Le Mans. You really feel at
one with the car. The way you drive is really
fascinating we have very good headlights,
but you are also very reliant on picking out
markers. For example, brake boards: you have
to pay so much attention to minor details like
the brake boards because you cant always
read them. Were approaching at over 200mph
and if you were to mistake the 100m board
for the 200m youve braked 100m later,
which means by the time youve realised,
youre off the track.
Is driving at dusk and dawn the hardest
to deal with? Do you have tips for coping
with that?
It is extremely difcult driving as the sun

comes up and goes down, because it creates
a glare on the windscreen and reduces
visibility signicantly. Its probably even
harder at these periods than it is at night.
For us in the race car we dont have the
option to slow down. We really do have to
stay at out, and just make sure that, where
possible, you look ahead and see what
trafc is ahead and see how far you have
FOUR SEASONS IN ONE DAY
From left: Oliver Jarvis Audi R18 returns to the
pits during the night of 18 June; the pit crew get to
work; the R18 in full ow two hours into the race
15
We have to take a lot of risks, because without risks

youre simply not going to be quick enough
car up out of the water and as a driver you

have very little control but in a race car you
need to push to the limits because we just
simply cant afford to lose time. However,
youve always got to leave that margin for
error and youve always got to err on the
side of caution because simply braking too
late, whether it will be into a corner on a
race track or into a roundabout, means you
havent fully understood the conditions and
it can result in a crash.
Another big issue, in particular at Le Mans,
is dealing with a lot of traffic. How do you
manage that problem?
got to the corner and try to judge it. As a

normal road car user, my advice would be to
make sure youve got the proper equipment;
sunglasses or special driving glasses and also
to have the sun-visor down.
How do you cope with signicant changes in
the weather over 24 hours?
For a driver, the most difcult conditions are

when you never know what to expect from
one lap to the next. On one lap you can
enter the end of the straight and its almost
dry, and you arrive there on the next lap
and there can be standing water. Standing
water is the most dangerous, whether it be
in a road car or in a race car, because you
run the risk of aquaplaning. That is where
you simply lose control of the car. It lifts the
At Le Mans were constantly in traffic.

I had laps where I overtook 15 or 16 cars
and, as a driver, youre trying to plan.
When you see the traffic ahead youre
trying to judge how quick they are, how
quickly youre going to catch them, and
therefore the best place to overtake them.
Theres no point arriving at a corner
extremely quick and catching a car in the
middle of a corner because youll lose so
much time on the exit. So youre better
to have a slight lift earlier, and then get
a good exit, and pass them on the exit.
But we have to take a lot of risks, because
without risks youre simply not going
to be quick enough. You can lose two or
three seconds simply by staying behind
a car when you should have overtaken.
So it has always got to be calculated risk.
RACING CERTAINTY
From left: The Audi R18 is put through its paces during a practice session at Le Mans, 5 June;
Lucas di Grassi waits to replace Oliver Jarvis during the race, 18 June; the R18 of Audi Sport Team Joest
crosses the nishing line in third place, 19 June; Di Grassi, Loc Duval and Jarvis on the podium
16
How would you apply this racing knowledge

to normal driving conditions?
I think when you are driving a road car, it is

a similar situation to us on the track in the sense
that you have to assume that not everyone
has seen you or is aware of you. You have to not
just think about what you are doing but also
appreciate that they may not be as competent
as yourself, and therefore you have to be able
to react quickly in case they havent seen youre
overtaking or, as you arrive, you have to be
aware that they might pull out in front of you.
What about on the other side of things, if
yougot someone following you for example
driving right up behind you howdo you
deal with that situation?
I mean if youve got someone behind

you on the track, generally they are trying
to overtake you, so you know for racing
drivers its simple because we just want
to go as quick as possible. Plus, were also
trying to defend; you know we dont want
them to pass. So, it is about covering the
racing line or going for the inside into
a corner, making life as difcult as possible.
That is obviously not the case for normal
drivers. My advice on the road is the
complete opposite. If youve got someone
who is tailgating you and driving erratically,
the best thing to do is actually not to push,
not to go at out. Its just to drive nice and
slow at your own pace, and let the car behind
you pass. ailis brennan
Illustration Getty Images
AFTER GENERATIONS OF SCIENCE-FICTION FANTASY,

AUDIS IMMERSIVE, CONNECTED A5 COUP IS A MATTER
OF FACT. GQ POWER PUTS THE FUTURE TO THE TEST
WE were promised robot butlers.

From Metal Mickey to the one
who brought Paulie his beer in
Rocky IV, weve been teased,
and this year, our tech pioneers
are nally getting to work. Elon
Musk is developing one to
perform basic housework, while
Mark Zuckerberg is also currently
building one to run his home. The
rest of us might have to wait a
little longer, but until then, the
new Audi A5 Coup is a start.
As driver or passenger,
youre practically pampered.
The electrically extending and
retracting seat-belt feeders
especially helpful for the coups
long doors give you a helping
hand. For the rst time in the
A5, the seats offer a surprisingly
soothing pneumatic massage.
Theres an embedded SIM in
this car, so the internet is your
oyster. Meanwhile, Audis virtual
cockpit boasts among myriad
user-friendly embellishments
a Google Earth sat-nav, and
you have no idea how incredibly
helpful that is until youre using
it. Everything in this car makes
your drive easier, effortless
and entertaining.
GQ was testing the A5 in
Portugal, where the world-class
roads seem made for doing just
that. The quattro four-wheel drive
system and new damper control
give you the feeling of absolute
control, which was particularly
helpful when monstrous logging
lorries came hurtling around
Portugals narrow winding
mountain passes without warning
or, it seemed, care for mortality.
This car is a cocoon. But its the
tech toys thatll win you over.
The virtual cockpit lives behind
the steering wheel on a 12.3in
monitor, vibrant as youd want,
thanks to a resolution of 1,440

x 540 pixels, the image refreshed
60 times a second for supreme
smoothness. Other than the
standard fuel and speedometer
displays, everything is here
steering wheel switches toggle
you through menus for music,
radio, phone, sat nav and traffic
updates, while along the bottom
edge you have the mileage,
outside temperature and warning
symbols. This all works alongside
a central 8.3in multi media
interface (MMI) on the dash,
a great secondary, touchpad
display, so you can have what
you need in front of you while
the front passenger pinches to
zoom in and out, and DJ on the
four Bang & Olufsen speakers,
including a 180-watt subwoofer.
The Audi connect SIM card,
permanently embedded and
connected within, gets you online
incredibly swiftly, while the
integrated Wi-Fi hotspot allows
up to eight mobile devices to do
whatever you want them to do,
and you can hook your phones
calendar and map destinations
to the MMI screen. And having
Google Earth for your sat-nav
really does make a world of
difference. Being able to see
exactly where youre going
rather than the blocky illustrative
representations were used to
makes you feel so much more
comfortable with where you are
and whats ahead. It just provides
a natural visual synergy between
what the computer is telling you
and whats actually happening
around you. Going back to a
regular sat-nav after that is like
switching from a PlayStation 4 to
a Commodore 64. Similarly the
head-up display, at the perfect
distance and placement in front
of your eyes, is wonderfully

undistracting. This is the rst
time the A5s had a HUD, and
what a joy it is for a subtle,
oating windshield signal to
let you know the speed limit
has just gone from 90kmh to
120kmh. Off you go.
This car is here to help. But
robots can only do so much.
Audis Traffic Jam Assist, a
semi-autonomous driving system,
monitors and moves with trafc.
The Side Assist acts like a second
pair of eyes and warns you (via
ashing LEDs) of blind spots and
helps you to avoid obstacles and
collisions. At one point, however,
with our colleague behind the
wheel, GQ looked up from the
phone only to see us speeding all
too quickly towards a car in front.
With rapidly increasing volume we
warned, Careful, careful, careful,
CAREFUL, CAREFUL!!!
Our driver swerved in time
hed seen the Pre Sense warning
sign and felt the brakes tapping
automatically, but wondered what
it was trying to tell him. Theyre
good, these robots. They just dont
fear for their lives like we do.
alex godfrey
17
ELECTRIC
AVENUE
AUDIS HYDROGEN/BATTERY-POWERED
A7 SPORTBACK H-TRON COULD BE THE NEXT
GIANT LEAP IN HYBRID ENGINEERING
time to fully
re-fuel
kilowatts of power
behind the A7
of hydrogen is enough to cover
62.1miles
miles per hour

top speed
869,919.7
number of miles
covered and
analysed
as part of
the Electric
Mobility
Showcase
individual cells are

built into each main
fuel cell
miles purely on
battery mode
maximum hydrogen
tank storage
of torque
miles in range
from one tank of fuel
IT may only be a concept at the moment, but the Audi A7 Sportback h-tron could be the future of alternatively fuelled vehicles.
With a front-mounted, hydrogen-powered engine supplying the electricity that powers the car, backed up by a chargeable plugin lithium-ion battery, this is innovative hybrid engineering at its best. The numbers speak for themselves...
18
Free your sockets

and charge all your devices
SMART
USB
CONNECTIVITY
Single or
double sockets
2.1A 3.1A 4.2A
CHARGE
SHARED
White moulded and decorative proles

with nishes to complement any decor
www.usbeautiful.co.uk
CHARGE
SHARED
CHARGE
SHARED
Heart of darkness:
Speech Bubbles
(Black), 2009, by
Philippe Parreno
Photograph Stefan Altenburger/Kunsthalle Zrich
H A LL O F H E RO E S
The Turbine Hall, featuring
works by heavyweights
such as Louise Bourgeois,
Anish Kapoor and Ai
Weiwei, has been visited
by more than 60 million
people since 2000.
TURBINE POWER
Philippe Parreno at Tate Modern
WHAT French avant-garde artist Philippe Parreno will do with the Turbine Hall is anyones guess, but
his celebrated H {N}Y P N{Y} OSIS exhibition at New Yorks Park Avenue Armory (2015) fused lm,
light, live and recorded sound, performance and technology to create a dramatic sensory journey. Its
safe to say no one puts ghosts in the machine with more magic and wit than Parreno, who creates
kaleidoscopic environments through the uid interplay of media. Architecture is recongured, rooms
bleed into one another, while the viewers attention is encouraged to meander, assaulted and assuaged
by visual surprises and strange apparitions. Parreno sees himself as a producer and his exhibitions are
conceived as a coherent whole rather than a series of objects. London is certainly lucky to have him.
Music, Sport,
Tech, Politics,
Film, Books
and the best
opinion for the
month ahead...
hyundai commission, turbine hall, tate modern 4 october - 2 april. tate.org.uk

TWILIGHT
OF THE GODS
The line-up of Coachellas Desert Trip is what

bucket lists were made for. But why does it
remain so difficult for the next generation of
festival headliners to step out of the shadows
cast by Dylan, McCartney and Jagger?
STORY BY
Dorian Lynskey
n the evening of 7 October, the most all-killer, no-ller

festival line-up ever assembled will unfold on the grounds
of the Empire Polo Club in Indio, California. Desert Trip,
from the brains behind Coachella, will bring together Bob
Dylan, Paul McCartney, Neil Young, Roger Waters, The Rolling Stones
and The Who for a boomertastic weekend which Paul Tollett, CEO of
concert promoters Goldenvoice, pitched as
one of the greatest shows of all time. Its also
the oldest, with the highest median age of any
festival bill in history (71.7). Desert Trip feels
like a weak title for such a momentous gathering. Id suggest The Last Hurrah or Buy Now
While Stocks Last. Or perhaps they could have
riffed on Roger Daltreys unintentionally grim
description: the greatest remains of our era.
Im sure that, for anyone lucky and afuent enough to attend, Desert
Trip will be a blast but theres an air of nality to the thing which is
echoed elsewhere. Black Sabbaths 2017 farewell tour is titled The End.
Steven Tyler says Aerosmith will be bowing out next year (although
guitarist Joe Perry has back-pedalled). Paul Simon has strongly hinted
that hes retiring even though his latest album, Stranger To Stranger, is
his strongest since Graceland: I am going to see what happens if I let
go. None of the Desert Trip stars have announced plans to quit I can
imagine some of them playing until their bodies disintegrate from under
them but all the key players are over 70 and nothing is guaranteed.
Forgive me if I sound morbid but the premature deaths of Bowie and
Prince this year have focused the minds of fans of older artists. One
friend says he plans to follow Neil Young around the country on his
next tour because he cant bank on there being another chance. Within
the next decade we are going to see what happens when we let go of a
whole generation of giants.
Of course, nothing lasts forever and more iconoclastic music fans would
say its a good thing that rock will emerge from the shadow of its (overwhelmingly white, straight and male) Greatest Generation. It would be less
of an issue if a younger generation was taking
their place, but festival promoters have been
talking for years about a headliner crisis. This
years Glastonbury was bookended by Muse
(for the third time) and Coldplay (the fourth),
with Adele the only new arrival. Reading and
Leeds featured Biffy Clyro (second time) and
Red Hot Chili Peppers (fourth), promoting only
Oxford art-rock heavyweights Foals.
The premature deaths of

Bowie and Prince have
focused the minds of fans
Illustration Ben Jennings Photographs Getty Images; Hufton+Crow
Trip of a lifetime:
Coachellas new
festival will bring
together rocks
greatest living icons
Smaller events, such as End Of The Road and Green Man, can manage
with Joanna Newsom or James Blake but festivals accustomed to bigger
sh struggled last summer. Latitudes headlining trio of New Order, The
Maccabees and The National was unusually low-key. V sacked off rock
completely, plumping for Justin Bieber and Rihanna. The Isle Of Wight
Festival appeared to suffer a complete collapse of the will to live, with
The Who, Queen + Adam Lambert, Stereophonics and Faithless topping
a desperately out-of-date bill.
If you dene a serious headliner for a major festival as someone who
can sell out Londons O2 Arena, then the options appear perilously thin.
Last year, a Music Week survey found that
the years 2001-05 had produced 20 new
This years
headliners for Britains ve biggest festivintage
vals, while for the period between 2006In 2016, of the ve major
15, only ve acts who released a debut
UK festivals, only four
of 15 headliners have
album went on to headline, one of them
released debut albums
being Noel Gallagher in a different guise
in the past ten years
and another two being the DJs Calvin Harris
and Avicii. That leaves just Mumford & Sons
and Florence + The Machine. Even if you
love those bands with the re of a thousand
suns, its not quite enough, is it?
Im by no means pinning the crisis on
younger artists, nor suggesting that theyre
inherently weaker than their elders. Rather,
1
its the inevitable result of industry upheavCALVIN HARRIS
als. It takes time to become a proper headFestival: T In The Park
liner. You need a deep bench of songs and
Debut album: I Created
Disco (2007)
years of stage experience to really pull it
off. Foals have got bigger and better with
each album but thats a rare achievement
when ckle, Spotify-hopping audiences
and nervous record labels conspire to stie
slow-build careers. I dont think people are
given the chance any more, Muse bassist
Chris Wolstenholme told me earlier this
2
year. You see so many bands come and go.
ADELE
So well done, Foals. But lets say youre
Festival: Glastonbury
not a Foals fan. How many of their songs
Debut album: 19 (2008)
can you name? Now that mainstream radio
playlists are oppressively narrow, its hard
for rock bands to reach the masses with
a killer single. At recent Glastonburys,
afternoon acts such as Madness and Lionel
Richie attracted bigger crowds than some
headliners because they have hits that
3
everybody knows without trying. If
a headliners job is to unite a vast crowd,
FOALS
singing along in unison, then the splinterFestival: Reading
ing of listening habits makes it increasingly
and Leeds
Debut album:
difcult. Its leading to the point where
Antidotes (2008)
every band will be a cult band; its just
that some cults will be bigger than others.
When Desert Trippers gather in Indio in
October, they will be paying their respects
to the old lions of rock music. But when
they sing along to My Generation, (I
Cant Get No) Satisfaction, Comfortably
Numb, Hey Jude, Heart Of Gold and
4
Blowin In The Wind, they will also be
JUSTIN BIEBER
re-creating a lost era when, it seemed,
Festival : V
everyone was together and everyone knew
Debut album:
My World 2.0 (2009)
the words. deserttrip.com
A WOMAN
SCORNED
Six months on from Zaha Hadids death,

is London nally ready to embrace the spirit
of its most controversial architect?
STORY BY
Emily Wright
MEN dont listen to me... thats

why I have to give them hell.
Zaha Hadid, in her own words,
was no pushover. So when she
died suddenly in March, the
Iraqi-born British architect left
more than just a Pritzker
prize-winning legacy in her wake:
she also left a reputation for
beingdifficult, inexible, and
uncontrollable. It is a reputation
that many who knew her would
argue was misunderstood. But
itwas one that blighted her
practices attempts to win work
inLondon for decades.
For years Hadid tried, and
failed, to conquer London after
opening her practice in the city
in1979. Finally, after nearly three
decades, she was able to make
her mark with the Serpentine
Gallery and, more permanently,
the Aquatics Centre in the
Olympic Park. As for schemes lost

well, its more that she wasnt
ever invited to compete for them.
I think Zahas public persona
and the way people saw her
didprevent us from getting
commercial work in London, says
her closest friend and the man
who has been forced to pickup
the threads of Zaha Hadid
Architects (ZHA) following her
death 54-year-old ZHA partner
Patrik Schumacher. We signalled
interest again and again
andtherewas this overriding
perception that her personality
was just too strong.
Unsurprisingly, Schumacher
remains staunchly loyal to Hadid
She was so misunderstood.
What a lot of people thought
ofher was just not right but
hismessage now is clear: I
hopeLondon developers can
seethatwe have a great team
ofpeople many of whom are
understated, quiet.
Quiet? The use of the word
is telling: Well, its true,
laughs Schumacher. The
practice is full of very
different people. It was
never just Zaha.
The prize ghter:

Zaha Hadid; (inset)
the Aquatics Centre,
Olympic Park
STORY BY
Sophie Hastings
ABSTRACT expressionism was

a watershed moment for 20thcentury art, at least as signicant
as cubism, yet there has been no
major survey since 1959, says
Edith Devaney, co-curator of the
Royal Academy exhibition that
unveils more than 150 paintings,
sculptures and photographs
brought together from public
andprivate collections across
theworld. Because its been
sucha long time coming, the
collectors were easily persuaded
to lend us their jewels, works
suchas Jackson Pollocks
monumental Mural (1943),
which is juxtaposed with
another of his iconic
paintings, Blue Poles
(1952). It is unlikely this
pairing will happen again.
Most of the American
artists linked with abstract
expressionism were refugees who
ed Europe after the First World
War and enrolled in President
Roosevelts Works Progress
Administration. This shifted the
art worlds focus from Paris to
New York, explains Devaney.
Artists associated with the
movement include Willem de
Kooning, Franz Kline, Joan
Mitchell, Robert Motherwell,
Barnett Newman, Jackson
Pollock, Mark Rothko, David
Smith and Clyfford Still, and
they have always been divided

into two groups: the colour eld
painters, such as Rothko and
Newman, versus the gesture
oraction painters epitomised
by De Kooning and Pollock.
The latter was agged as the
Great American Painter by a
patriotic US press, who wanted a
local to represent the movement.
But abstract expressionism was
about freedom, breaking
boundaries in art and in life, as
Pollock pointed out. The idea of
an isolated American painting
seems absurd to me the basic
problems of contemporary
painting are independent
of any one country.
The exhibition explores
another factor that
contributed to abstract
expressionism becoming the
rst international art movement.
It was very macho, says
Devaney, but they recognised
the talent of several female
artists, including Joan Mitchell,
Barbara Morgan and [Pollocks
wife] Lee Krasner. This diverse
group talked about art and ideas
constantly and its fascinating
how their individual personalities
are palpable in their works.
Abstract Expressionism is at the
Royal Academy Of Arts until
2 January. Piccadilly, London W1.
royalacademy.org.uk
Life lessons
from literature
No4
Dont commit crimes

against language
Home res:
Fans clash in
Moscows Eduard
Streltov Stadium,
September 2012
THE WORLD
CUP IS
THE NEW
COLD WAR
With fear already deterring
many fans, negativity around
Russia 2018 has turned it into
a crisis waiting to happen
STORY BY
Martin Samuel
he morning of Tuesday 28 October

1997, and Im fourth in a queue
of journalists looking at a closed
entrance in the club ofces of the
Dynamo Stadium in Moscow. Our attention
is focused on a small leather-studded door,
behind which sits the man in charge of the
accreditation for the following days World
Cup play-off game with Italy.
This is where England would have been if
they had not drawn 0-0 in Rome to top the
group. This is our Sliding Doors option. Russia,
away, creeping towards winter. Wet, cold,
inhospitable. The door remains shut. Outside,
a hatchet-faced ofcial stands guard. Finally,
he motions towards the rst man to enter. The
door closes behind him. Silence, then raised
voices. Soon after, he exits. No ticket. After
a short interval the second journalist is summoned. The same process unfolds. A brief
argument, a sharp exit, no ticket. Eventually,
it is my turn. I have witnessed three strikes
out of three, so far.
I hand the seated administrator a copy of our
accreditation request. He looks at it, looks at
me. Looks at it, looks at me. Daily Express, he
Photographs EPA/Photoshot; Getty; Joe Ziolkowski
The abstract expressionism of Pollock, Rothko

and De Kooning is long overdue its major
reappraisal at the Royal Academy
Cecil Day-Lewis, quoted in Cameron McCabes The Face On The Cutting Room Floor, rst published in 1937 and reissued this month (Picador Classic, 8.99).
RETURN OF THE
ACTION MEN
Jargon by its general resemblance to the slang of

backward schoolboys gives a remarkable impression
of the arrested development of the criminal mind
Different strokes: Vawdavitch

(1955) by Franz Kline
A troubled history:
1. Vladimir Putin with former
Fifa president Sepp Blatter
(right) in Moscow, 2014
2. Sochis Olympic Stadium,
a 2018 venue built for the
2014 Winter Games an
event tainted by reports of
state-sponsored doping
3. The Sun reports on
Englands Euro 16 match
with Russia, 12 June 2016
1
Whatever one thinks

of English supporters,
Russia upped the
ante this summer
3
2
says. I nod. England. I nod again. He thinks

about this. Tell me, he says. Halifax Town
how are they this season? Good?
So heres the story. The BBCs Moscow correspondent back then was a Halifax Town fan.
Based in Russia, he liked to watch the local
football, too. He would apply for press tickets
at Dynamo Moscow, where he met our man,
who spoke excellent English. They became
friends. He introduced him to Halifax Town.
And, yes, at the time, Halifax Town were doing
well. They were top of the Conference. Geoff
Horseld was banging them in. I left with a
ticket. Apparently Henry Winter, reporting for
the Daily Telegraph, offered up a non-league
football handbook he happened to be carrying in his briefcase. He got a ticket, too. Later,
the BBC man told us that our new friend, like a
number of the ofcials at Dynamo, was in the
KGB. Anyone of his age, who speaks English
that well usually is, he explained. He cant be
KGB, I scoffed, he seems like a good bloke.
Why do you think hes in charge of football
tickets? he replied. Not much call for genial
Halifax fanciers in the jump-leads-on-thescrotum department.
So my experiences of Russia are not all

bad; but theyre not all good, either. Henry
couldnt get to his seat the next day because
the heavy mob had taken over the press box
and they werent moving. The corruption is
obvious in everyday life, as is the suspicion of
outsiders, particularly those of colour. There
are too many racist incidents in Russian club
football, too much denial, too many specious
allegations of western smears. And football
is one of the sports least tainted by recent
scandals. Athletics has been brought to its

knees by systemic Russian doping; the Olympic
movement has been similarly scandalised. And
this is no longer just Russias problem.
This month, Europes football nations are
taking their rst steps towards the 2018 World
Cup, in Russia. But if anything is going to curb
enthusiasm it is the prospect of a Russian
World Cup. This feels like a chore, not a prize.
The fans are already reticent. How will
they view the next tournament destination
after events in Marseille? Whatever one may
think of the behaviour of English supporters
in the past, there is no doubt Russia upped
the ante this summer. Some Putin watchers
even argue that having the toughest, most
violent hooligans is part of the presidents
hybrid war on the west. Certainly, there were
as many ofcial comments appearing to celebrate the violence, as condemn it. The ghting between Russian fans and English, that is
a disgrace, Putin told an economic forum in
St Petersburg. But I truly dont understand
how 200 of our fans could beat up several
thousand English. His audience applauded
loudly. Were they clapping his moral stance,
another insinuation of western conspiracy,
or the knowing wink: were the tough guys
of Europe; come and have a go if you think
youre hard enough?
And if all you want to do is watch a bit of
football, why risk the aggravation? Everyone
knows staunch, decent England fans who
will not be making the trip in 2018. I met
plenty in France. The nancial cost was already
prohibitive, but the human cost is potentially
terrifying, with one supporter still in an
induced coma from being attacked, long after
his team had departed.
And if this mood seeps into the England
dressing room, what effect could that have
on performance? England players are normal
people. They have friends, families, they
know fans, they hear what is being said.
Any thoughts about a Russian World Cup are
already negative. In Chantilly this summer,
farewell drinks were held for one of the travel
personnel who has been on every England trip
for as long as I can remember. He began as a
member of staff at the Football Association
and was latterly employed by the company
that looks after the media. Hes getting out
because he doesnt want the hassle of Russia,
so is the correspondent from Sweden who
came over with Sven-Gran Eriksson in
2001 and didnt go back ten years ago when
Eriksson left because his newspaper had such a
fascination with English football. Same reason.
Our electrician never misses an England away
game, goes to all the tournaments, travels
around, makes a holiday of it. Not Russia. No
fear. Who can blame him? Not everybody is as
nice as those chaps at the KGB.
HELL TAKE
MANHATTAN
Empire state of
mind: In Bright,
Precious Days
Jay McInerney
revisits lead
characters from
previous novels
Jay McInerney is back with his

latest love letter to New Yorks
high society. GQ meets the
novelist who blurs art and life
to devastating effect
STORY BY
Olivia Cole
ike his hero F Scott Fitzgerald in

the Twenties, in the Eighties and
Nineties, Jay McInerney seemed
to both exemplify his tribe and the
distance, sensitivity and sobriety required to
tenderly skewer it. In Bright Lights, Big City
(1984) he famously shared the misadventures
of an aspiring young writer, his oundering relationship with airhead cover girl Amanda and paid
purgatory in the Department Of Factual Verication
of The New Yorker, where McInerney himself once
toiled. The protagonist suddenly feels old, embarrassed
by his callow, shallow dreams, such as checking into the
Plaza Hotel. Getting out of the taxi next to the famous
fountain, he writes, you seemed to be arriving at the
premiere of the movie which was to be your life.
Publication delivered on these ambitions, catapulting
McInerney into the spotlight: a 29-year-old writer with
good looks and a personal life to ll gossip columns.
Leader of the hedonistic literary generation known as
the Brat Pack, McInerney had already had a brief rst
marriage to a model who went to Milan Fashion Week
and never came back. Then there was the end of his
second marriage to Merry Reymond the inspiration for
his character Corrine Calloway, who returns in his new
novel, Bright, Precious Days and a tabloid frenzy over
his affair with model Marla Hanson.
Today a devoted father (his twins with third ex-wife
Helen Bransford are now 21) and happily married to his
fourth wife, Anne Hearst, McInerney has at times, he
says, modelled my life somewhat on that myth... of
the writer as someone who pursues danger, adventure,
someone who doesnt settle down. I think thats one of
the reasons Ive been interested in exploring this monogamous couple over time, because they have chosen that
path and it kind of fascinates me.
The would-be monogamous couple are Russell and
Corrine Calloway, whom he wrote about in Brightness
Falls (1992) and revisited in The Good Life (2006) as a
way of addressing 9/11, in the process delivering one of
the few credible ctional treatments of that time.
Cool, clever and mysterious (even to the man who
married her) Corrine may have been inspired by his
second wife, but 20 years on McInerney thinks of her as
being more real, more tangible to me than my ex-wife.
Russell, an editor at a high quality but struggling publishing imprint, has the career to which McInerney had
he not been a writer might have graduated after the
Department Of Factual Verication.
Depending on your view, McInerney has, by virtue
of his own success, either become one of the rich are
Stranger
than fiction
Somewhere in the
madnessof McInerneys
early years in New York
wasa brief spell dating
Rielle Hunter, ventriloquised
to tragicomic effect in
hissecond novel, Story
OfMy Life (1988), with an
exhausting, self-obsessed
rst-person commentary,
voiced to parodically
annoying effect through
thecharacter of Alison.
Rielle/Alison resurfaced
19 years later, exactly as
hehad described her to
throw John Edwards 2008
presidential campaign
off-course with the
revelation of their love
child. The National Enquirer
hounded McInerney to get
more information about
thegirl he once dated.
There is no question,
hesays today. Alison is
based on Rielle Hunter.
[She] was just another
NewYork party girl when
Iwrote the book, it never
occurred to me that Id be
answering these questions
28 years later. Its so weird.
Its just bizarre.
different characters he writes about, or occupies a

uniquely placed position to observe them. For example,
fellow Brat Packer Bret Easton Ellis has had some gripes
in this department. Our talk turns to Fitzgerald, famously
savaged by critics for still writing about socialites and
dilettantes after the Wall Street Crash. Denitely, there
is a bias against a certain class of people in literary ction
he says. Does anybody seriously wish that Fitzgerald had
written about construction workers? I sure as f*** dont!
The challenge to the Calloways relationship in Bright,
Precious Days is banker Luke McGavock, with whom
Corinne had a war-time affair during the aftermath
of 9/11 in The Good Life. McGavock returns somewhat
Gatsby-like, convinced that money can get you everything
you want. Close scrutiny of a banker couldnt be timelier.
Bright, Precious Days closes with the election of Barack
Obama in 2008, which McInerney recalls as a great
moment, a redemption of 2001, and yet is also brilliant
on the nancial crisis and its rippling impact on the lives
of his characters. People like Luke are incredibly inuential in determining the way that the world operates.
Bright, Precious Days is part of a slew of writing in
recent years on the subject of money the making
of it and its corrosive effects from Vicky Wards The
Devils Casino to Michael Lewis The Big Short, and most
recently Billions. But, of Obamas election, he says, By
the time I started to write this book it was possible to
look back on that moment and see in many ways [its
promise] had not been fullled. It was a false dawn.
Bright, Precious Days (Bloomsbury, 16.99) is out now.
Photographs Beta Films; Collection Christophel; Getty Images;

Gutierrez/Netix; Netix
I modelled
my life on
that myth of
a writer as
dangerous
BLOW BY BLOW
COVERAGE
As the new series of Narcos drops on Netix,
charting the last year of Pablo Escobars life, we
talk to the man who plays him, WagnerMoura,
about legalising drugs, disagreeing with Sean
Penn, and the drug lords horrible taste in jumpers
STORY BY
Stuart McGurk
ou ate your way to the Pablo gut for the rst series
same again here?
No, we had to use a prosthetic suit, because hes even

bigger. And gets bigger still. I just couldnt eat enough! Its
like 10kg heavier than the rst one. I could never do it. All my doctors
were like, Dude, stop!
Life of Pablo (from

top): Narcos stars
Pedro Pascal, Cristina
Umaa, Wagner Moura
and Paulina Gaitn
Its handy he dies at the end of this series, then
I know! Otherwise I would have died!

Pablo wears some truly terrible jumpers in the
show do you have a favourite?
Oh, yes, and I kept it. Its his jumper from

the last episode of the rst series, with the
knotted rope on it. Oh, man, its the ugliest
outt ever. Its almost like a kids jumper.
You were nominated for a Golden Globe
for your performance in series one
what was that like?
It was actually the day after they caught

[Mexican drug lord] El Chapo, so of course
thats all people asked about. I was one of
the only people who said that [unlike Sean
Penn] I would never have met him. Hes a
bad criminal. I dont want a relationship with
him. I dont need to in order to portray a character like him.
Whats the solution to the drug war?
All drugs should be legalised. It should be controlled by the

state. People should pay taxes on it. The war on drugs is a big op. It
should be treated as a health problem, not a police problem.
Is it true you once broke someones nose on a lm?
Its not something Im proud of. It was for the rst Elite Squad, and
special forces guys were training us to portray them. As Im a naturally
calm person, they felt I should be more aggressive. And their methods
of making you angry are really effective. A guy said something about
my family and so I broke his nose. But it was crazy, because they were
all celebrating! Like, this guys face was covered in blood and he was
screaming, Yeaaaah! Yeah! Thats good! He was so happy.
Narcos series two is on Netix now.
Streamings
greatest
(mob) hits
From Netflix hoods to
Amazon wiseguys,
point your browser to
these boss criminals.
NETFLIX
NETFLIX
NETFLIX
AMAZON
PRIME
BETT ER CALL SAUL

The Breaking Bad spin-off may
be about slippery lawyer Saul,
but by the end of series two
his world is the underworld.
PEAKY BLINDE RS
Cillian Murphys gang moves
from Birmingham to London as
they expand operations in the
wake of the First World War.
MARS EILLE
Political intrigue, gangsters
and Grard Depardieu as
mayor Marseille charts
thecorruption of a city.
G OMORRAH
A rare instance when the TV
series is better than the lm,
Gomorrah takes us into the
grimy Naples underworld.
GATHERING
STORMS
Contentious, unpredictable
and sectarian, this years party
conference season will only add
to the sense of a nation in ux
STORY BY
Matthew dAncona
his years party political conference season will be

very different to the annual ritual of tribal choreography that administers an adrenaline shot to wake the
body politic from its summer torpor. For the political
class, there was no true holiday, no collective siesta to be ended with
a noisy klaxon. The vote on 23 June to leave the European Union
and its fallout saw to that.
Despite the resulting wave of resignations and sackings that swept
through Westminster, arguably of much greater importance was Jeremy
Corbyns decision not to give up the Labour leadership, even when
his front bench resigned en masse and Labour MPs voted against him
in a condence motion. The result of the contest between Corbyn and
Owen Smith will not be announced until 24 September, the day before
the partys annual gathering opens in Liverpool.
For many years, media coverage of conference season has been a threepart travelling circus. Warm-up week has been provided by the Lib Dems
earnest, eccentric and mostly irrelevant, with the conspicuous exception of the coalition years (2010-15), when Nick Clegg was not only the
exhausted facilitator of a fractious, Balkanised hyper-democracy, but also
deputy prime minister and David Camerons partner in power. After the Lib
Dems 2015 electoral rout, its new leader, Tim Farron, inherited only eight
MPs a loss of 49 and a ticket to the edge of the abyss. There Farron
still stands, fending his activists away from the lip of the pit, searching
for a new brand that will at least keep the threat of extinction at bay.
In the year since he was elected Labour leader, meanwhile, Corbyn has
made no impact upon party political debate, the Tory partys ascendancy
or Labours failure to woo sections of the electorate outside its traditional
embrace. If, as expected, he sees off Smiths challenge, he will have a thoroughly enjoyable conference. Its a milieu that suits his instincts as an
activist, placard-waver and left-wing sectarian, much more than the cutand-thrust of the despatch box or the heavy lifting needed to prepare
a party for ofce. In Liverpool, he should prove himself ready to do
whatever it takes to unite his party which, only 15 years since its
last landslide, is now irting with a historic split into Parliamentary
Labour and Grassroots Labour, or, even worse, an ignoble and
protracted death by attrition, erosion and growing irrelevance. Parties
that play house in their comfort zones can expect nothing better.
At the same time, the much-predicted realignment has already taken
place, in the rise of nationalist parties and the surge of English nativism that, far more than constitutional axioms, motivated the break from
Brussels. The Scottish National Party, which is meeting in Glasgow from 13
to 15 October, holds 54 seats in the Commons, compared to the Lib Dems
eight. Why, its supporters ask, is it not treated by the media as the UKs
third party? A reasonable enough question. The UK Independence Party
which would more accurately call itself the English Nationalist Party
won 12.7 per cent of the vote in the general election, a performance bettered only by Labour and the Tories. Yet Ukip
was rewarded with only one seat. In its next
Great divide: The major
conference, the party will surely seek to claim
parties will attempt to
regroup after the shock
ownership of Brexit and to translate referenofthe EU referendum
dum victory into a winning electoral strategy,
result and a change of
especially in areas where Labour is faltering.
prime minister
GQs political insider,

Alex Wickham, spills
the secrets ahead of the
party conferences
Want to have lunch
with the prime
minister during Tory
conference?
TheConservatives
are cashing in on
their new leader
by selling access
to TheresaMay
for 2,750-a-plate.
Thats a ten per cent
hike on what they used
to charge for the
chance to shake hands
with David Cameron.
Meanwhile Labour
fundraisers are
offering tickets
to a swanky
business lunch
for a bargain
1,100-a-head.
Just one problem:
they cant get
Jeremy Corbyn
to conrm hell
attend. Almost
as if Jez has a
problem with
wealth creators.
Back in Birmingham,
therell be heightened
security measures after
hard-left protesters
attacked Tory
delegates last year.
Still, the real
endangered species are
journalists at Labours
conference. Some have
private security to
protect them from the
Corbynistas...
As for the Tories, what might have been a post

mortem of what went wrong on 23 June, will
now be a celebration of the new government
and of its determination to pursue radical social
reform, as well as the best possible terms for
Britains departure from the EU. Such are the
dividends of our constitution, which looks
presidential (power seems to ow from
one person), but remains parliamentary (it
actually ows from the Commons).
That said, the new PM will be seeking an
implicit mandate from the party membership,
which was denied the chance to choose
between two candidates in the last round of
the leadership contest. In 2002, May found
herself at odds with the Tory grassroots for
pointing out quite truthfully that some
people called them the nasty party.
However, last year, she was a conference hit:
the home secretary tough enough to take on the
police, who delivered a barnstorming speech
on immigration that in retrospect seems
all part of a plan to beat the boys to the top
job. In Birmingham, I suspect, she will be
hailed as an all-conquering heroine. This
mood wont last forever, of course, and the
fringe meetings will be a blizzard of clues
and hints about trouble ahead. Her reshufe was remarkable in its fearless range, but
undoubtedly stored up trouble for later.
So often, the conference season is a formality, an extended welcome back from holiday.
But this year, to adapt one of Tony Blairs
best-known lines, The kaleidoscope has been
shaken, the pieces are in ux. So they are, and
so they will be for some time to come. The only
certainty is that absolutely nobody can be sure
what is coming next.
Illustration Ben Jennings Photographs Getty Images; Rex
Conference
confidential
NAVIGATOR
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Frieze London at
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6-9 october
Set your cultural compass

Bringing together the worlds
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and presenting work from over 30
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an immersive light show by James
READ
Turrell and a sculpture by Philippe
Here I Am by
Parreno that responds to his Tate
Jonathan Safran Foer
installation. A new gallery section,
out now (hamish hamilton)
The Nineties, re-creates seminal
Once dubbed the young
exhibitions from that decade,
pretender to Philip Roths
featuring a Wolfgang
literary crown, the
Tillmans show (1993) and
author of Everything
performances by Pierre
Is Illuminated (2002),
TO THE LETTE R
Joseph (1991-95).
Jonathan Safran Foer,
Jonathan Safran Foers fans
This years nonprot
will delight in his return
nally follows up his
commissions for Frieze
as well as his email
excellent Extremely
correspondence
with
Projects are by Coco
Loud And Incredibly
Hollywood star Natalie
Fusco, Julie Verhoeven
Portman, published by
Close (2005) with
and Operndorf Afrika.
the NewYork Times.
a sprawling family
SOPHIE HASTINGS
frieze.com
WAT C H
Deepwater Horizon
out on 30 september
Hard to know what to expect

from this, as there were no
previews at the time of going to
press. An autobiographical look at
the 2010 drilling rig explosion and
subsequent oil spill in the Gulf
of Mexico, its directed by Peter
Berg, which could be bad (2012s
Battleship) or brilliant (2013s
underrated Lone Survivor) and
stars Mark Wahlberg, John
Malkovich and Kate Hudson.
Expect high-octane rather than
deep thought: The Poseidon
Adventure on stilts. STUART McGURK
saga that reaches

back into the 20th century
and an imagining of modernday Washington DC, which he
presents as reeling from Israel
having been invaded and the
Middle East devastated by
an earthquake. OLIVIA COLE
to this months pole stars
HEAR
True Detective (Nic Pizzolatto) and

the presence of Denzel Washington
and Chris Pratt as the men in hats
who get called upon to protect a
village in need. Is it difcult?
asks Pratt. Impossible, says
Washington. Yup, this is essentially
a retro Avengers Assemble and
theres nothing wrong with that. SM
Unsongs by Moddi
SEE
out on 16 september
(propeller recordings)
Frieze Masters at
Regents Park, London
The Norwegian singer-songwriters

smart cover versions of songs which
have been banned, censored or
otherwise suppressed around the
world isnt just thought-provoking.
Moddis sensitive reimaginings
(including Kate Bush and Pussy
Riot) have a haunting beauty and
an often startling emotional kick.
DORIAN LYNSKEY
WAT C H
The Magnicent Seven
6-9 october
Brilliant juxtapositions and good

lighting have made Frieze Masters
incredibly popular and many
VIPs were shocked to discover
they couldnt get in last year.
Encompassing art and antiquities
from the ancient era to the late
20th century, Frieze Masters 2016
presents talks with artists, critics
and solo presentations of female
modern masters. SH frieze.com
out on 23 september
HEAR
The original 1960 rootin tootin

Western itself an interpretation
of Seven Samurai gets a modern
update via the director of Training
Day (Antoine Fuqua), the writer of
Skeleton Tree
by Nick Cave And
The Bad Seeds
Up the revolution:
Bastilles second album
marks the storming
return ofDan Smith
out on 9 september (bad seed ltd)
Cave and his bands 16th album

is shrouded in mystery until its
debuted on the eve of release via
the documentary One More Time
With Feeling, but it promises to be
devastating. Recorded after the loss
of Caves teenage son, its described
as an artist trying to nd his way
through the darkness. DL
READ
Selection Day
by Aravind Adiga
out now (picador)
Nobody can write with such dark

wit about the social tumult of
contemporary India like Aravind
Adiga, who won the Booker prize
for his 2008 debut, The White Tiger,
and proved equally entertaining
with Last Man In Tower. Four years
on, his characters voices still jump
off the page in Selection Day, set
in the world of professional
cricket in Mumbai. OC
READ
A Rage For Order:

The Middle East In
Turmoil From Tahrir
Square To Isis
by Robert F Worth
out on 22 september (picador)
The New York Times correspondent

makes good on the paradox explicit
in the title as he travels through
the region, attempting to unwind
the contrails of fear, fury and
factionalism that continue to feed
the bloody aftermath of the Arab
Spring. A journey seemingly
without end. BILL PRINCE
LI K E A B O S S
A new album of old
and unreleased
Springsteen tracks
accompanies his
autobiography, out
on 23 September.
WAT C H
Blair Witch
out on 15 september
A mere 17 years after the original,

which spawned a host of foundfootage imitators and, hard to
believe now, rumours at the time
it was genuine the Blair Witch is
back. Unlike the forgettable sequel
(Book Of Shadows), Blair Witch
goes back to its found-footage
origins (this time in HD), after a
brother has reason to believe his
sister is still alive in the wicked
woods and sets out with his
friends to rescue her. Does it all go
according to plan? It does not. SM
HEAR
Wild World by Bastille

out now (virgin/emi)
Dan Smiths bedroom solo project has grown into a platinum-selling,

festival-headlining band, albeit a slightly anonymous one. This time,
Smiths stirring songs pack a bigger punch thanks to a timely political
subtext. Expansive anthems about trying to keep your head in a
basket-case world. DL
READ
Born To Run
by Bruce
Springsteen
out on 27 september
(simon & schuster)
There are several

approaches to the true
rock-star memoir you can take
the money then think better of
it and return the advance (Mick
Jagger), take the money and ask
someone else to write it (Keith
Richards collaborated with author
James Fox on his award-winning
Life) or you can even write it
yourself. Good news: Springsteen
has chosen the route Bob Dylan
took on Chronicles and written
his own. Bad news: there were
no proofs available as GQ went
to press. OC
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E D I T E D BY
PAUL HENDERSON
MENDING YOUR OWN MIND
Illustration Hayley Warnham
From meditation and music to exercise and laughter, GQ shows you

the actual mental leaps you need to make to train that brain
Veni, vidi, Vedic:

Make mental
wellbeing your
daily mantra and
think your way
to a better life
BRAINS ON THE BRAIN
Mind-altering experiences
Get more from the little grey cells with ve
ways to give yourself a kick up the cranium
Meditate your
way to elitehood
YOURE bombarded with advice to strengthen your cardiovascular

system, lose weight and chisel out a marble six-pack. But thats to
neglect your nervous system, which is responsible for every action
you take. And the good news is, youre not stuck with what genetics
served you. A few tweaks can produce a neurologically better you...
2
Get t
by drinking
caffeine
Customised
training
Training by heart rate is nothing
new but training by heart rate
variability (HRV) is and it
could well be your path to
weight loss and a happier life.
HRV is a measurement of the
parasympathetic branch of the
nervous system, which controls
recovery and repair and essentially
gauges the variation in heart rate
between when you exhale and
inhale. Simply, higher levels of
stress result in a lower HRV,

says expert Marco Altini.
Still, measuring stress is one
thing beating its another.
Thats where daily HRV
measurement comes in. There
are a number of HRV training
tools on the market, such as
Omegawave, and apps that
gauge your daily HRV, which
can prescribe your days
exercise. If your HRV is high, it
means your body is unstressed
and you can push hard that
day. If life results in a low HRV,
take it easy. Itll mean a
healthier you because you
wont dig too deep when your
body needs recuperation.
We havent paid
enough attention to
the psychobiological
reason why most
people dont engage
inphysical activity:
humans dont like to
exert effort. With type
2 diabetes and obesity
at record levels, the
University Of Kents
director of exercise
research, Samuele
Marcora, has a point.
Its also why Marcoras
proposing sofadwellers should begin
doping. Psychoactive
drugs such as caffeine
and modanil are
proven to reduce
discomfort and
perception of effort
during exercise.
Its all down to
neurology. Caffeine
impacts the system in
the brain and spinal
cord involved in pain
processing. The idea
isthat caffeine
willmake exercise
seem easier and so
encourage sedentary
folk to do it more. Just
two cups of coffee
should provide the
neurological stimulus
you need.
Be one step ahead of the

competition is a good maxim to
live by if youre seeking peak
performance and now you can
be thanks to mindfulness. Martin
Paulus at the University Of San
Diego examined the brains role in
performance with a breathing test
on US Navy Seals, elite adventure
racers and civilians.
We informed them that their
breathing would be inhibited
around ten seconds before we did
so, explains Paulus. We noticed
that with the Seals and elites there
was extra activity in the part of the
brain known for resilience and
decision-making. Essentially, the
elites prepared themselves.
This differed to the civilians, who
panicked, affecting subsequent
decision-making. Paulus put the
civilian subjects through a 12-week
course of mindfulness training. It
was amazing 12 weeks later they
were recording similar results to
the elites, he says. The takehome? Improve decision-making
and reactions with meditation.
LIFE
GET SMART
5%
Illustrations Hayley Warnham
Run to Einstein
Exercise natures
proven medicine to beat
a host of ailments. But
did you know that
striding out also boosts
brain power? Studies
have shown that
running stimulates a
phenomenon known
as neurogenesis,
explains Larissa True at
State University Of New
York. Essentially this
means growth of new
brain cells. The reasons
why arent yet fully
understood but
increased bloodow and
raised hormone levels
are leading contenders.
Exercise also reduces
stress, which inhibits
brain cell growth
due to cortisol.
Recent work by
a team from the
University Of Finland
set out to investigate
whether different types
of exercise increased
neurogenesis to
differing degrees.
A group of rats either
undertook six weeks of
running, high-intensity
training or resistance
training, with the rats
that were running two
to three times longer
than their rodent
contemporaries seeing
twice the neurogenesis.
So hit the hills, not the
gym, for a brainier you.
The amount the brain declines in

volume each decade from the age
of 40. The rate increases from 70
Nervous healing
If you break a limb or have a metabolic
disorder, such as coeliac disease, one of
the lesser-known side-effects is damage
to your nervous system. Nerve damage
often occurs when the myelin sheath
that covers and protects the nerves, like
the encasing surrounding electrical
wires, deteriorates. (As an aside, the
thickness of myelin has been mooted as
one of the secrets to elite success.)
Thats where vitamin B12 comes in.
Studies reveal that foods swimming in
B12, including calfs liver, venison,
scallops and halibut, help heal damaged
myelin. Clearly, though, prevention is
better than cure. Enter Omega-3.
Researchers from the Queen Mary
University Of London showed how
foods high in this healthy fat were
talking salmon, walnuts and ax seeds
prevented and protected nerves from
injury. In short, look to your diet to
keep neurology on track. James Witts
BOOST
YOUR
BRAIN
POWER
Five simple ways to raise
your Mensa score...
1 Antioxidants sweep up
freeradicals from metabolic
processes heightened when
exercising which can cause
inammation and prevent
brain neurogenesis. So
consume a diet brimming with
colour, like blackberries and
even red wine, to clear up
those bad metabolites.
2 Through periods of fasting,

studies have shown that your
brain cells become more
resistant to stress and clean
out old cells to make way for
the new. Doing this in daytime
can lead to irritation and
distraction, so focus on a
good nights sleep. That
means sheets instead of a
duvet for thermo-regulation,
no smartphone in bed and
complete darkness.
3 Brain training doesnt

require consuming a thesaurus
or spending the day with
Rachel Riley. Its been shown
that variation and novel
challenges can strengthen
your grey matter, which
includes the most innocuous
of tasks. This can be anything
from driving home a different
way to cleaning your teeth
with the wrong hand.
4 More sex, please. US

scientists studied a group
ofsexually active rats with
rodents who had sex twice a
month. They discovered that
the Warren Beatty rats had
signicantly increased the
number of brain neurons over
their less-active cage mates,
especially in the regions
responsible for memory.
5 Close Facebook and read

nonction. Thats the secret to
increased brain power.
Research has shown that using
your imagination gives you a
mental workout because it
forces your mind to picture
what youre imagining. JW
SCIENTISTS, as they do, disagree about many things to do with brain

health, but are unanimous about aerobic exercise being the number one,
top of the list, best thing you can do to keep grey matter in good fettle.
Exercise increases oxygen to the brain, oods it with good stuff, such as
glucose and serotonin, and promotes wellbeing. No pain, no brain.
MENTAL HEALTH
Heads you win
4 Take a
chill pill
Blow your mind:

As a drummer,
Jack Garrett
hasmore grey
matter than the
average person
Cortisol the hormone

produced by stress
is bad news for the
noggin, killing brain
cells and stopping the
production of new
ones. University Of
California scientists
have even found that
permanent changes in
brain structure can be
caused by cortisol.
Again, exercise is a
good antidote but also
look at better time
management and bin
the nicotine.
1
Instrumental as anything
As well as making you annoying/popular at parties, playing an
instrument will boost your brains plasticity and its ability adapt to
new experiences. Numerous surveys have shown that it creates more
neural connections, which will also serve as protection in later life.
Musicians even drummers have more grey matter than most. Fact.
2 Beat the conundrum
Heres where scientic opinion really polarises. Do brain training games

have a benecial effect upon concentration, verbal reasoning and memory?
Findings by Cambridges Medical Research Council, among others, suggest
not, but there are strong advocates for their benets, particularly to the old
and young. At worst, they cant do any harm.
5 Have an
MOT
Conditions which
affect other parts
of the body have
ahabit of harming
the brain as well,
so an all-round
health check
makes sense.
Diabetes, sleep
apnoea, even heart
disease all impair
cognitive function.
As does the stress
linked to worrying
about them. Get
itchecked.
Drunk not disorderly
7 Talk like an Egyptian. Or a

Spaniard, Italian, Greek...
Try a daily dose of Duolingo to become uent in
another language and see grey matter in your left
inferior parietal cortex soar. Tests at University
College London comparing language learners with
the monolingual proved this to be the case and
the younger you can do it the better.
8 Have a chuckle sandwich
Big laughs be they dumb or clever are

benecial for the brain, stimulating areas of the
organ (Im here all week) associated with learning
and creativity, helping reduce cortisol while
boosting dopamine and serotonin. Theres also
evidence that a guffaw helps short-term memory,
although being able to forget Mrs Browns Boys
DMovie would be a blessing.
9 Sleep on it
Regular excursions on the steam train to mental

oblivion remain unsurprisingly bad news for
the noodle, but University Of Copenhagen
researchers suggest moderate alcohol
consumption can lower risk of death from
Alzheimers disease by 77 per cent. This ties in
with studies suggesting a strong social network
is an effective protector of the top storey. Pub?
Unsurprisingly, a solid nights kip works

wonders for brain health. Quality sleep sees the
hippocampus talk to the neocortex, effectively
transferring memory from short-term to
long-term storage. Moreover, studies at New
York and Peking Universities both support the
idea that sleep creates new synapses, helping
creativity and problem solving. John Naughton
Where is the brain going?
THE FUTURE
1 Erasing memories
It may sound like the plot
of Eternal Sunshine Of
TheSpotless Mind, but
scientists believe they can
now remove memory by
altering certain proteins in
the brain.Israeli scientists
have shownthat they can
erase memories associated
with drug addiction, though
wiping out bad relationships
maytake longer...
Food for
thought
2 Controlling thoughts
Research has shown that
people can control their
thoughts better when they
observe how their brain is
working via a real-time
brain scan, helping them
stay on track with tasks.
Of course, its only a small
step from this to having
your daydreams shared on
a giant monitor for the rest
of the office to see.
3 Ending depression
Maybe not immediately,
but massive progress is
being made in this area
thanks to advances in
genomics. A gene called
ACP1, which produces
too much protein in the
brains of people who
have attempted suicide,
is just one example of the
payback from mapping
the human genome.
4 Banishing fear
Dutch scientists recently
attempted to remove a
group of arachnophobes
fear of spiders. They did
this by blocking the ght
or ight chemical
norepinephrine with
a drug called
propranolol.
They were
startlingly
successful.
5 Introducing telepathy
Experiments suggest that rats
could inuence each other
after microelectrodes were
implanted in their brains let
them communicate without
language. Its an idea
whichhas led Mark
Zuckerberg to argue
that thoughts will
oneday be shared
telepathically on
Facebook. OMG. JN
Photographs Getty Images
The big-hitters in
ahealthy diet for
your body are also
the ones that keep
your internal
computer OK. Thus,
oily sh (replete with
Omega-3 fatty acids),
nuts, whole grains,
seeds, sage, broccoli
and blueberries are
all proven defenders
against dementia. B
vitamins 6 and 12
particularly plus
folic acid are also
recommended.
G Partnership
SURVIVAL
INSTINCT
Time to meet the ultimate plant survivor
that just gets better with age with the
botany heroes at joyofplants.co.uk
EVERGREEN
The Chinese Evergreen
can grow with its leaves
coloured pale green or with
a silver or red pale glow.
Despite the name, the
natural home for the plant
is actually in Indonesia,
Thailand and Malaysia
where it thrives under the
canopies of large trees.
Its the Harrison Ford of the plant world; striking, longlasting and pretty much impossible to destroy. Ever
adaptable, just like Ford, the Chinese Evergreen is the
perfect plant for those shorter days and earlier
sunsets of autumn.
Needing the absolute bare minimum of love and care
(just make sure to water it once a week and give it a little
bit of natural sunlight) the Chinese Evergreen is more than
just an easy-on-the-eye good looker. Recent studies by
Nasa have shown that the plant helps purify the air
wherever its standing and is especially good at ghting
the benzene in detergents and the formaldehyde found
in cosmetics. Put it in the bathroom and let the evergreen
get to work.
But as durable and striking as the end result is, this is a
plant that can put up with you giving it the cold shoulder
now and again. Draft, heat, humidity and under watering
dont bother the Chinese Evergreen too much. So get
acquainted further with this most eager to please of plants:
the evergreen doesnt ask for much, but boy does it
give a lot in return.
Stimulating company:
Fiera uses suction
to increase female
sexual response
Fiera: a
revolution
infemale
pleasure?
Californias tech pioneers
have nally woken up to
human desire get ready
for the era of pre-arousal
SILICON Valley. Its getting sexy. And I dont
mean network comedy Silicon Valleys
horse-related shenanigans. Nor the top
investor being sued by a former stripper
for allegedly keeping her as his sex slave.
Rather, the tech entrepreneurs transforming
how we shop, hail a cab, harness solar
energy etc, are at last turning their minds
to how we can make more and better love.
Not long after Jawbone creator Alexander
Asseily launched the award-winning Elvie (a
smart pelvic-oor exercise tracking device),
comes Fiera. Created by Dr Josh Makower
consulting professor of medicine at Stanford
University and a wildly successful biotech
pioneer this palm-size, clitorally focused
device is designed to be a pre-arouser: she
uses it before sex begins, or even before a
date, to maximise her chances of being in the

mood and whirling into fabulous orgasmic
bliss. Welcome to the world of before-play.
Makower holds more than 200 medical
device patents and is CEO of ExploraMed,
a medical device incubator. So much of
our bodies are electrical, thermal, uid
and mechanical, he says. Its natural we
would approach solving some of medicines
biggest problems using technology.
But why did he turn his mind to turning
women on?
I prefer to invent in spaces that others
are afraid of. I was struck by the passion
of physicians working in womens sexual
health and by the lack of clinically validated
products. This lack is remarkable given the
gap between how much sex women would
like to have (lots) and the amount they
actually have (lots less).
Leah Millheiser is director of female sexual
medicine at Stanford and chief scientic
ofcer at Fieras parent company, Nuelle.
She tells me that research suggests some
50 per cent of women have a sexual concern.
It usually happens when youve been with
somebody for several years, she explains.
There is relationship fatigue, a lack of
novelty. The research we did showed that
women didnt want to feel medicalised,
they didnt want a drug. They just wanted
something to kickstart their sex drive.
Happily, our understanding of the female
sexual response is becoming more and more
sophisticated. In 1966, sexologists Masters
and Johnson articulated a sexual response
path for men and women that moved from
arousal to orgasm and then resolution. For

years, that was how we looked at arousal, a
linear and very male construct. Then, in 1998,
Viagra came out and men found themselves
back and ready to go and there were all these
Viagra divorces as men wanted more sexually
interested partners. This lead to an explosion
of research into female arousal.
We have now reformulated the female
sexual response cycle. Many women do not
experience spontaneous sexual desire. This
is not dysfunction. It could be due to stress,
fatigue, long-term relationships, all sorts.
However, once a woman begins sex it can
be great: responsive sexual desire develops
during the act. Says Makower, The
prevailing theory of female sexual response
is like a circle, where sexual stimulus and
arousal are on the circumference. Triggering
one can lead to the other and vice versa.
Using this knowledge, Makowers team
investigated how to encourage this cycle, so
women who wanted to be in the mood could
do something about it. The result is Fiera.
The device looks like a small, ergonomic
computer mouse. Flip it over, and there
is a suction circle. Attach this to the clitoris,
and it feels, well, strange to start with.
Not unpleasant, but unusual. It works by
creating a focused zone of suction around
the clitoral region, increasing blood ow to
the genitals. It can also be used hands-free.
Nic White, a 31-year-old fashion designer
living in Los Angeles, tells me: Ive always
been sexually active. I used to be so puzzled
when people would talk about not being in
the mood. Ive been living with my partner,
Photographs Art+Commerce; Getty Images
SEX
LIFE
Todd, for three years and although we adore
each other, when it actually came down to
making out I never wanted to engage. But
Fiera has changed that. It took a few times
to get the hang of it. Usually I put it on when
I am doing my make-up: I prefer to use it
when Im by myself. But I denitely have a
more intense climax if Ive used Fiera. Todd
jokes he might hide it from me: sometimes
now its him who wants an early night!
So, will this pink plastic sucker currently
only available in the US (188. era.com), but
with a UK launch aimed for 2017 transform
our lives? As ever, its not that simple.
Professor Barry Komisaruk, author of The
Science Of Orgasm, is doubtful. Increasing
blood ow to the clitoris has been the aim
of some research using Viagra on
women and the effect on sexual
desire seems to be minimal, he
says. Consequently, I would
not expect the Fiera device
to be any more effective.
But if a woman feels that it
of women admit to lying about
snooping on their partner. As
induces desire and/or helps
Oscar Wilde said, Deceiving
her in any way, then who is
others. That is what the
anyone else to refute that?
world calls romance.
Could the Fiera, in fact, be a
placebo, merely moving the mind to
a more sensual sphere? Or is it enhancing
libido in the same way that a vibrator does?
Debby Herbenick, an author and researcher
who has spent years studying desire issues
in long-term relationships and who sits on
Fieras scientic advisory board, is pragmatic:
The way I think about the Fiera is that it
helps to have options. No single product or
strategy is right for everyone. There may
be times a woman nds it helpful to wear
lingerie or use sex toys. Other times, it may
be that using an arousal-enhancing product
gets her in the mood.
Given the vigorous debates surrounding
female sexuality and the newness of research,
Fiera was never going to be a miracle cure.
However, it is a marvellous prompt to
continue a critical conversation. It is drug-free
so unlike the much-derided female Viagra
Flibanserin it wont cause physical side
effects and reviews online are positive.
Perhaps the best thing, therefore, is to
think of Fiera as another arrow in ones
quiver for those times when life is not
crackling with eroticism. Maybe she nds
Fiera an easy way to switch gears. Maybe
shed prefer you to make crme brle and
serve it in your Bjrn Borgs. Or maybe you
both nd a weekly reason to come home
early, open a bottle of Jean Philippe Moulin
vintage champagne and make the most of
those magical hours between 5pm and 7pm.
In the words of John Lennon: Whatever
gets you thru the night. Rebecca Newman
BOXING FITNESS
Train like
a champ
SHANE McGuigan (son of Barry)
is the most in-demand boxing
trainer in the UK. Having guided
Carl Frampton to a world title,
he now coaches David Haye and
George Groves using modern
strength and conditioning
techniques. Here are his ve tips
to get you ghting t...
3 CV
To develop an aerobic base,
do 20-40 minutes of running or
swimming once a week at 6080 per cent of your max heartrate. This is good for stamina
and cardiovascular tness. If
running puts too much pressure
on your joints, try a machine
like the Versaclimber.
1 Small circuit
For strength, you cant beat
body weight exercises so
chin-ups, press-ups and
weighted squats/or deadlifts.
Do 5 to 8 reps of each, with a
two-minute rest between. By
set 4, you should be struggling.
Thats a 20-minute killer.
4 Abdominal work
Core strength is vital for
boxing and general tness. The
best exercises are planks, side
planks (hold for a minute) and
weighted inclined leg raises
(2 seconds up, then lower for
3). Do 8-12 reps, with a short
recovery 5 sets is plenty.
2 Tabata bag work

This is brilliant for all-round
tness. We call it dead weight
and its exhausting. Try 20
seconds of hard punching
(either straight punches or
uppercuts as hard as you
can) and then 10 seconds rest.
Repeat 6 times for a short
3-minute HIIT workout.
5 Hill sprints
Great for explosive speed.
Find a steep hill 100 metres
long and run up it, at out, for
30 seconds. Walk down and
recover for 90 seconds. Uphill
means low-impact, so no joint
damage. Do it 8-10 times. PH
Contact McGuigans Gym at
info@mcguigansgym.com
Labour of glove: Coach

Shane McGuigan trains
boxer George Groves
BEAR GRYLLS: #17 BEATING INJURY
How to recover
from anything
Even the most serious physical setback can lead to
a positive transformation of both body and soul
WHEN I was in my early twenties, I broke my
back in a parachuting accident (a long, painful
journey that I talk about in my autobiography Mud, Sweat And Tears). In the weeks and
months that followed, when I didnt know
for sure whether I would even walk again,
I learned a lot about the recovery process and
how to deal with it.
The rst thing to remember is that there are
many brilliant doctors out there, but they are
not the ultimate authority. Winston Churchill
said that experts should be on tap, not on
top, which means that you should never rely
on just one professional opinion. A friend of
mine he was only 19 and his dream was to
join the Royal Marines had an accident and
even after surgery was told hed need crutches
for the rest of his life. He was devastated.
We helped him get some more opinions and
after several consultations he found another
surgeon who told him that he had been given
the wrong size plates in his initial surgery. Hed
have to have it re-operated on. It would take a
couple of years to x, but he was going to be
OK. Hed be able to join the Marines and hed
still be only 21. His life was just beginning. If
hed given up after his rst diagnosis, he would
never have walked unaided again.
He learned something that I had learned

after my own accident: when you are recovering from serious injury, you have to play
the long game. If youve had a bad accident,
there will denitely be some major bumps on
the road to recovery. Sometimes it will feel like
youre even taking several steps backwards.
Your condence can become as broken as your
body and you have to develop the will to ght.
When I was spending months in and out of
the amazing military rehabilitation centre at Headley Court,
strapped up in braces, there
were certainly moments when I
thought: Im getting worse, not
better. I became disheartened.
But like my friend with his leg,
I was learning an important life
lesson. Sometimes you have to
lose a few battles in order to
win the war. I was learning to
play the long game. I decided
to make my recovery a mission
and to attack it positively and
with purpose. But that can be
easier said than done.
Playing the long game means
that one of the biggest battles
Once Id been
reminded
how fragile
life is it
became
something
more the
pain gave
me the fire
Photographs Ben Riggott; Discovery Communications
From the jaws

of defeat: Bear
Grylls says his
recovery from a
broken back took
him to a new
level of focus and
determination
you will have to ght is not the physical one.

Its the mental one. You can become so focused
on rebuilding your physical health, stepby-step, day-by-day, that its easy to ignore the
effect all this is having on your mental health.
Its not unusual to lose sight of your ultimate
goal. When that happens, we get frustrated,
and so often take things out on the very people
trying to help us. I saw that happen at times
at Headley Court, where the kind, dedicated
staff often had to bear the brunt of much frustration from the recovering soldiers. We need
to guard against that and not be afraid to lean
on those closest to us.
So how do we keep our eye on the prize?
It might sound strange, and difcult, but we
have to focus on the positives of the situation.
Its a clich, but truly, every cloud has a silver
lining. A friend of mine called Joe lost his leg
in Afghanistan. If you speak to him now, hell
tell you hes glad it happened. As a result of
his injury, hes learned more about life, friendship and going for goals than he would ever
have learned back on easy street. So much
so that he trained as a Paralympian and now
travels the world working and instructing on
our Survival Academies.
I experienced something similar: breaking my
back gave me the focus, drive and determination to go through everything that eventually
led to climbing Everest. Before then, it was just
a childhood dream. Once Id been reminded
how fragile life is and I was on my back,
stripped of so much of what I felt was my identity and skills it became something more. The
pain gave me the re. It truly is struggle that
develops our strength.
I sometimes nd myself getting frustrated
at those things in my body that dont work as
well as they used to because of injuries. And,
of course, while we all want to be as well as
we can be, we dont have to be perfect. We
live in a society where everyone seeks perfection. But imperfections are a sign of living.
I dont want to reach the end of my life in a
perfectly preserved body. As
Ive often said, I want to come
ying in sideways, covered in
scars, beaten up and screaming,
Yahoo! What a ride!
As a man of faith, there is a
Bible verse that sums it all up
for me. For I know the plans
I have for you, declares the
Lord, plans to prosper you and
not to harm you, plans to give
you hope and a future.
Sometimes, when the future
is uncertain, I find that sentiment so powerful. So keep
going when it is tough and,
above all, remember: never
give up!
LIFE
PERSONAL TRAINER: #9 MOUNTAIN BIKING
Wheel to power
WHETHER you are a recreational rider out to make the most of
off-road routes or thinking of racing competitively, spending time
in the gym will help you get the best out of being in the saddle and
prevent injuries. Upper-body strength and endurance can give you a
competitive edge when negotiating the many obstacles encountered
on both cross-country and downhill courses. With cross-country
races lasting anything from one to six hours, building endurance in
the arms, chest, back and shoulders is vital if you are going to stay
in control over rough tracks and technical terrain. Downhill courses,
usually lasting no longer than ve minutes, incorporate jumps, drops
and rock gardens where upper-body strength and endurance will
improve shock-absorption and manoeuvring. Jonathan Goodair
For more information, visit jonathangoodair.com, homehouse.co.uk
Exercise 1
The plan
Exercise 2
Inverted row/push-up
Step bound
Performing the following upperbody exercises on a suspension

trainer, such as TRX, will not only
build strength in the chest, back,
shoulders and arms, but will also
work the stabilising muscles in your
shoulders and core muscles of the
torso and hips.
Since power on a bike is delivered

one leg at a time, it makes sense to
train using a single-leg exercise.
Step bounds do that and because
its a single-leg exercise the balance
is tested, increasing stability in the
ankle, knee, hip and core.
Move 1 inverted row method

Lying on back under xed horizontal
bar (with bar high enough to allow
straight arms), grip the bar slightly
wider than shoulder width.
Maintaining alignment through
ankle, knee, hip and shoulder, pull
body up to bar. Return to start
position under control, maintaining
body alignment, and repeat.
Move 2 push-up method
Hands shoulder-distance apart,
body in plank position with legs
straight, balancing on toes or knees,
depending on ability. Maintain
alignment through ankle, knee, hip
and shoulder slowly lower chest to
oor over 3 seconds and push back
to start position and repeat.
The pyramid Start with 5 reps of
horizontal rows followed by 5
reps of push-ups, then 4/4, 3/3,
2/2, 1/1. Then go back up
again, 2/2, 3/3, 4/4, 5/5. If
you can complete the full
pyramid add one rep
onto the pyramid.
Method Stand facing a weights

bench or plyo box with right foot
onbench/box. Engage your
abdominals and drive through the
right foot and hip jump as high as
possible. Land on the same foot and
repeat with a small pause between
reps to ensure upright posture.
Complete 5 sets of 5 reps each leg.
Exercise 3
Side-lying pikes
A strong and stable core will give
you better control over your bike
and make you more effective at
delivering power to the pedals. A
strong core will also help reduce
the incidence of lower-back pain.
Method Lie on your right side,
lefthand behind head, right arm on
oor with palm down just in front of
torso. Roll back slightly maintaining
alignment, lifting legs and upper
body, pivoting on right elbow, until
left elbow and left knee touch.
Return to start position and repeat.
2 sets of 20 reps each side.
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AR2506 by
Opposite: AR1974 by
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AR2502 by
All watches available
at Ernest Jones ,
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Stylist Francesca Pinna
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Steering wheel
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This is the awards ceremony that all other awards ceremonies

want to be. Over the next 52 pages, we celebrate the comedian
responsible for the years biggest comeback, the worlds most
famous DJ (with the most famous ex), the mayor helping unite the
capital, the TV star favourite to be the new Bond and the funniest
woman on the planet. Whats more, weve got everyones favourite
stormtrooper, the Enterprises maverick captain and a certain
acting legend who doesnt need to tell you his name is Michael for
you to know his surname. Ladies and gentlemen, in association
with Hugo Boss, the 19th annual GQ Men Of The Year awards.
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
Something old, something new, something borrowed.

This creative powerhouse and music obsessive
applies the same immaculate standards to his effortless
style as he does to his Grammy-winning recordings
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MEN OF THE YEAR 2016

vintage-style suits sent 5,000 miles from the
workshop of little-known Japanese tailor
Kyosuke Kunimoto, Ronson has been earnestly
diving into his personal style for a long time.
As his music evolved, so too did his clothes:
from playing in bands aged 13, he latched
onto the Madchester thing, matched with
his love of Blur; later, when rave was taking
hold in New York, he combined his love of
the Beastie Boys and hip hop by showing off
with ridiculously baggy jeans and Seventies
vintage Pumas with fat laces; then, when Hedi
Slimane took over at Dior, everything changed.
The French fashion designer revolutionised
the way young men dressed and Ronson was
committed to that revolution. I remember the
rst really expensive thing I bought was a Dior
leather jacket, he says. It was $2,300. I dont
regret it. He makes jackets that you could wear
down to the store and see Daft Punk wearing
on stage.
Slimane is an appropriate fashion icon for
Ronson: joining Saint Laurent as creative director in 2012, he took inspiration from the music
world, ripping up the brands Seventies vibe
and replacing it with a skinny, grungy, rockstar-chic look. His designs were equally adored
by the public and the critics, sending prots
soaring. Sound familiar?
Ultimately, though, its not all about the label.
When I think of incredibly stylish people, that
could be Serge Gainsbourg in a jean jacket. Its

not just Bryan Ferry in a wonderful three-piece
suit, says Ronson. The most important thing
that unites stylish people is that because they
love what they do so much, they automatically
look cool.
For Ronson, style is inextricably linked to
music, but its also important not to try to think
too hard about it. I know when I hear what Im
looking for. Its the same with style. You know
it when you see it. You know when you kind of
put shit together sometimes by accident, youre
like, Oh, thats good. Maybe Ill rock with that
for a minute. When he started working with
Amy Winehouse on Back To Black, hed get
dressed up in my Phil Spector suit and walk out
with my f***ing brilliant ingnue artist [Amy],
with her amazing look all of her own that was
part-Camden, part-The Ronettes.
Clothes seep into you. You cant be standing in front of a band or a horn section with
this old-school arrangement wearing a f***ing
T-shirt and baggy jeans, especially when that
audience isnt just a band, but two million
people who watch the Uptown Funk music
video every day, or the 115 million Americans
who tuned in to see his sparkly bomber jacket
steal the show at the Super Bowl. In his own
words, Style is about having something and
owning it, and Marks been there, done that,
bought the vintage T-shirt.
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ark Ronson made the job of

picking the Hugo Boss Most
Stylish Man very easy this
year, and its almost all down
to one particular outfit he
wore at an American sporting event. Who else
could we pick, other than the man who opened
Bruno Mars set at the Super Bowl wearing
a high-shine, sparkly gold-and-black Saint
Laurent bomber jacket? With just the right
mix of ashiness, sportiness and style, that
outt set the standard for menswear this year.
For a man who spent most of his early career
either producing seminal albums, such as Amy
Winehouses Back To Black, or mixing records
behind the decks in a DJ booth, 2016 was the
year Ronson strode emphatically onto centre
stage and looked damn good doing it, too.
As GQ learned when we stepped into his
walk-in wardrobe on the third oor of his west
London townhouse, Ronsons style formula is
the same as his music: select the best items
from a particularly cool era, mix it all together
with condence and out pops a song (or outt)
which is greater than the sum of its parts. He
says his style is not about just looking the part
to fool people. If I get into something I dive into
it wholeheartedly. You want to be about that
thing, right?
As is evident from his wardrobe, lled with
Saint Laurent, Gucci and two or three bespoke
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SIR MICHAEL CAINE

What is this British icon looking forward to after 50 years and 115 films
as a global superstar? His next job. Different class...
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LEGEND
he bloody hoses have screwed up again, Sir

Michael Caine chirrups as he steps into his
Surrey home from the garden where a manyheaded hydra of Hozelocks has caused him
momentary grief.
The experience has not visibly dampened his enthusiasm
for the classic retirement pursuit, although quite where the
recipient of GQs Legend award nds time to tend to his
hollyhocks amid looking after his grandchildren and being
constantly in demand to make lms is not clear.
Last lm I made? he ponders. That would be Going In
Style with Morgan Freeman and Alan Arkin. Its a comedy.
They tell me there wasnt room in the schedules for it this
summer so were going to see it next Easter.
This latter is uttered with a raised, wry eyebrow, worthy
of his great friend Sir Roger Moore and betting a man who
has seen and done everything in cinema for 60 years. But
theres nothing but optimism in his eyes when discussing
his next project.
Thatll be Four Kids And It, he declares with an excitement that belies his 83 years. Im doing that for my grandchildren [Taylor, seven, and twins, Allegra and Miles, six].
Caine is clearly besotted with these most recent additions to his family, but as a man who has worked with both
muppets and Muppets, which does he prefer?
Puppets are much better to work with than actors, he
laughs. Actors are bombastic, loud and all over the place,
whereas puppeteers are quiet people and very nice and
friendly and quite like their puppets, cuddly and sweet.
That was a fantastic journey for me.
Caine came to the forefront of the lm industry at a time
of peak social mobility when his fellow Mayfair Orphans
Story by
Photograph by
nightclub owner Johnny Gold, photographer Terry ONeill,

and tailor Dougie Hayward were succeeding in their professions. The fact that fewer working-class actors make the
grade these days clearly troubles him.
All the stars used to be working class, he recalls, citing
Peter OToole, Albert Finney, Terence Stamp and himself,
among others. All the top actors now seem to be middle
class so you do wonder where theyve all gone.
Class, of course, has been a constant in Caines conversation throughout his career, but whats striking is how easily
he seems to move between the different strata of society.
His conversation can switch in seconds from the traitor
Kim Philby I knew before anyone else he was a spy. I
saw him on television and I knew he was lying. Actors can
always tell to his friendship with John Lennon: I knew
John very well. We rst met at the Cannes Film Festival.
I would say, This is Mr Lemon and he would say, This is
Mr Micklewhite. Thats how we got through Cannes Film
Festival without being recognised!
Earlier this year and as a result of heightened airport
security, Caine ofcially changed his name from Maurice
Micklewhite to the one he is known by the world over.
Otherwise, youre liable to end up in the nick for three
hours, he explains. So my passport is the same name
as me. My name really is Michael Caine. I hope my dad
forgives me!
He laughs once more. And, to be fair, he has a lot to
laugh about.
I cant think of anyone who has a better life than me,
he declares matter-of-factly. I am so happy. People say to
me, Do you believe in God? And I say, If you had my life
youd have to believe in God.
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NEW
M E D IA
S TA R
NEISTAT
arrived at Casey Neistats Lower
Manhattan HQ just before 9am on a
blisteringly hot Thursday in the middle of
July and there was already a small crowd
outside. His online fame is so huge
every time he posts a vlog on YouTube its seen
by approximately three million people (including me) its largely impossible for him to walk
around Manhattan without being pounced on
for seles. In this department he has become
something of an expert, too, and when an hour
or so later I stood up to go, the picture he took
of us was micromanaged with speed and grace.
Dont lean in. There, just there. Got it. When
people say Sele instead of Hello, you need
a way to respond as slickly as possible.
I have to be quick, as I only have 50 minutes
with my daughter every day, he says. When
Im racing out of my ofce and there are 60
kids out there, thats eight minutes of time,
or more, and thats 30 per cent of my time
with my daughter. I scream, Im so sorry,
I have to get home right now! I get on my
skateboard and take off. And I see on Twitter
people saying they came all the way from
Hong Kong and theyre crying. But my priority has to be my family.
Having become an overnight sensation in
Story by
2003, when he posted a three-minute lm

titled iPods Dirty Secret, criticising Apples
lack of a battery replacement programme for
the iPod, hes gone on to create viral hits on
everything from bike lanes (crashing into
every bike lane obstacle in New York to show
how useless they are; it made Times Top 10
Creative Videos of 2011) to a video for Nike
in which they asked him to shoot something
on the hashtag topic #makeitcount (and he
truly made it count by spending all the money
on travelling the world rather than the video
itself; it was viewed over three million times
in ve days), he is now the poster boy for
online content.
He is 35 and in the 13 years hes been
famous has become his own brand ambassador,
someone whose taste, passions and personal politics continue to transform an industry
that still doesnt understand itself. In our new,
mediated digital world, Neistat is not so much
a tastemaker as a talisman. As well as being a
YouTube personality, lmmaker and co-founder of social media company Beme, he has cornered the market in branded videos, being
one of the few people working in this area
who understand that transparency is often
all people want as long as the message, the
Photograph by
Styling by
medium, the execution and the subtext are

exactly as they should be.
I got approached the other day by some
really smart publicist and one of the things
they said was, We can help make sure you
get invited to the best events, and as theyre
saying this I think to myself, I have a channel
that has four million subscribers. I have an
audience of three million a day. The one thing
Im not lacking is the ability to be seen.
There is also nothing manufactured about
him and, while he has become more than adept
at marketing himself, his work is completely
character-driven. If you care about Casey then
youll probably care about what he says.
As for his enthusiasm, it is completely infectious. Well, I mean, I love it. I love it more
than anything. It makes me wildly happy and
I would say eight to ten hours of work a day is
me staring at a computer and I like that. I view
it sort of like an artist looking at a canvas or a
musician writing notes thats the time when it
turns from nothing into something and I really
enjoy that. I do it mostly when everybody else
is asleep. My familys asleep. I dont socialise. I
dont party. I dont go out or do dinners. I dont
hang out with friends. Its family and work and
nothing else.
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With an insta-audience of millions and viral-ready videos highlighting everything from taking
on Apple to spending Nikes money, the New Yorker is the poster boy for online campaigning
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I HAVE AN AUDIENCE OF
THREE MILLION A DAY.
THE ONE THING IM NOT
LACKING IS THE ABILITY
TO BE SEEN

ack Garratt didnt think he would necessarily win the Junior
Eurovision Song Contest, but he certainly didnt imagine
hed come eighth, either. Out of eight. Garratt, who admits
his 14-year-old self was very condent, very arrogant,
thought his song The Girl had more potential. Now aged 24,
Garratt realises it was shit.
These days, however, failure is as alien to GQs Breakthrough Solo
Artist Of The Year as the teaching profession he left behind four
years ago following a quarter-life crisis. In the last 12 months the
multi-instrumentalist, who produces all his own material and performs completely solo (switching from guitar to keyboard to drums
all the while trilling falsetto vocals and toying with effects on his
laptop), was dubbed the BBCs top newcomer in its Introducing
poll, before winning the hugely inuential Sound Of 2016 list. The
crowning glory was when Garratts skippy but soulful electro-pop
won him this years Brits Critics Choice Award, following in the
footsteps of James Bay and Sam Smith.
It wasnt so long ago that Garratt was living in a tiny

Buckinghamshire hamlet, practising owl noises and skipping
school. Now, the pop wunderkind counts Sia and revered record
producer Rick Rubin among his fans and spends more time at
Heathrow Terminal 5 than in his own apartment. He spent the
last year performing sell-out shows in the US and Australia,
supported Mumford & Sons for their UK tour and has played at
almost every British festival this summer, including Glastonbury, as
well as headlining Lost Village and Barn On The Farm. In February,
Garratts debut album, Phase, shot to No3 in the charts.
For Britains most hotly tipped artist of the moment, this years
success is just the start. It bafes me when musicians say theyve
achieved their potential, that theyre content with where
theyve got to, says Garratt. If thats true, why are they waking
up tomorrow? I hope I never feel like Im the best. Say what you
like, Jack, but second-best doesnt win GQs Breakthrough Artist
Of The Year now, does it?
BREAKTHROUGH SOLO ARTIST
JACK GARRATT
From teenage wunderkind to Brit Award-winning festival headliner in just two years,
this 21st-century one-man band could be the saviour of British pop
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o celebrate Ricky Gervais is to celebrate a man who

has made the world bend to his predilections cue
David Brent looking directly at the camera before
his eyes dart away, knowing hes just said something
potentially risqu, but not wanting to dwell. A man
who has gone from accidental late-night gag-man, to noughties
TV behemoth, US primetime presenter, lm star, cultural icon,
and, just in case you werent listening, friend of David Bowie.
To meet Gervais in 2016 is not that different to meeting him in
2001, the only difference being that the world has got smaller
as hes got bigger. In this respect, we now live in an entertainment universe that has been changed in part not just by Gervais
unique brand of comedy, but also by the unique nature of his
success. To wit: you can look at the career of many British
comedians who have pursued fame and fortune in the US and
usually see some element of compromise, whereas with Gervais

this simply isnt true; one only has to watch his performances
at the last four Golden Globes go on, click on YouTube again
to see how powerful he has become. How powerful, and how
very particular.
This year he has had yet more success, with a new stand-up
tour, a new lm (Special Correspondents on Netix, which he
wrote and directed) and a full-length spin-off from The Ofce,
David Brent: Life On The Road. This hilarious and excruciating
mockumentary proves that not only is Gervais still in command
of his innate comedic skills, but also that he can continue to
revisit his greatest hits without them becoming stale. If you look
at the way in which Steve Coogan continues to revive Alan
Partridge, for instance, you could be forgiven for thinking that
Coogan has started to resent his most famous comedy
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RICKY GERVAIS
From the return of his greatest creation to ruffling the feathers of Hollywoods
sensitive souls, this comedy colossus follows only one rule. No compromise
creation; whereas you get the sense that

Gervais loves David Brent more and more with
each passing year.
Perhaps the worst thing you could say
about Ricky Gervais is that he knows his own
worth, but then what could possibly be wrong
with that?
On David Brent: Life On The Road:

I think theres been enough time for me to
have a new perspective on the world, even
though a lot of my comedy is about foibles and
excruciating social faux pas and ordinary
people trying to do something. Brent is that
classic British sitcom staple: a delusional
middle-aged man, holding onto everything,
holding onto youth, credibility, and weve
mixed it with every ordinary persons crazy
quest for fame. These days fame is different.
Fame is insatiable. Now people like their life
like an open wound to stay on TV. Now people
invite cameras into their homes because they
I dont go up there to ruin peoples nights, I

dont go up there to shock people, and I dont
go up there to undermine the moral fabric of
America. The question I asked was, Do I
pander to the 200 people in the room or the
200 million people watching around the
globe. And there was no competition, because
theres nothing in it for them. Winning awards
is not a spectator sport, so I tried to make it
one. If its going to be televised then lets make
it interesting. Why am I watching someone cry
and thank God? Get over it. I go up there with
a beer, I pretend Im drunk, and I pretend Im
a loose wire, and I pretend I despise all these
people. Now I know half of them and theyre
all right, but Ive got to be the outsider.
Imagine it I went, Hey, Brad. Thanks,
George... Ive got to be the bloke at home
getting drunk in his pants. Ive got to have a
go at NBC. Ive got to do that and luckily I like
doing that.
When he came over to England, he invited

me to dinner with some very old friends so
my girlfriend and I went along to this place
in Richmond, and there was us, these
people, David Bowie, Richard E Grant, Pete
Townshend, all having dinner. The night
before Id been on Paul Mertons Room 101
and theyd showed a clip of Seona Dancing,
the new romantic band I was in 30 years ago,
which is me basically doing a Bowie
impression. So at dinner the next night, David
Bowie comes up to me and says, Seems I owe
you an apology. I saw you on TV last night and
I think Ive been ripping you off for the last 30
years. I went, Yeah, all right, calm down, it
wasnt just me. It was everyone else in 1983
ripping you off.
It was just really sweet, do you know what
I mean? I remember asking him about things
and asked him a few things about his work or
I think I told him once that he was my
favourite and then never again. Then I plucked
up the courage to ask him to be in Extras. I
said, I thought the joke would be that I bump
into you and youre just really awful to me. I
thought wouldnt it be funny if he was an
arsehole? He liked the idea and so I sent him
the lyrics for Little Fat Man. I then called him
up and said, Can you do something retro, like
a Life On Mars type thing? And he said, Oh
sure, Ill just knock out a quick f***ing Life
On Mars for you. I just started laughing, like,
who am I to be telling Bowie what to do?
A few years later he was curating a festival
for the High Line in New York, and he asked
me to be the headline act at Madison Square
Garden. I was a bit worried, so I said, Have
you seen my stand-up? Can I just do
anything? And he said, You can do anything
as long as its delightfully offensive. What a
thing to say. Delightfully offensive.
After his heart problem I was in a very
dark place I went to his at downtown. The
little concierge there said, Oh, are you here to
see Mr Jones? And I went, Oh yeah, Im here
to see Mr Jones. David Bowie doesnt exist.
And we went in and his apartment was
beautiful, just beautiful. He asked if I wanted
a coffee and then when he reappeared from
the kitchen he was shaking and fumbling as
though he was really ill. He wasnt taking it
seriously. There was this pewter or steel statue
right in the middle of the oor. And he went,
Yeah, the artist was trying to do in 3-D what
Picasso tried to do with 3-D in 2-D, but in 3-D,
but anyway my daughter likes to hit that with
a hammer. So anyway thats why we got on.
On Bowie:
We became pen pals, and started exchanging
funny emails about art and everything.
Brent on Brexit:
It depends who hes talking to. He tries to run
with the fox and the hounds.
want to auteur something. Ive always wanted

to do exactly what I want. When I had no
money, I spent everything I had on rent, on
the smallest at in the world, but it was in
Bloomsbury. I insisted on final edit when
The Ofce started life. I was a nobody on
the street who demanded final edit and I
think the only reason I got it was because it
was low risk; I didnt cost much. They stuck it
out on a Monday night in July. When people
ask, What scares you? I just say, Oooh
spiders; nding a lump, but actually its not
being in charge.
On the Golden Globes:

They keep inviting me back. I suppose
because its network clickbait. They once said
that if I carried on insulting celebrities, then
they wouldnt come. As if an actor would give
up the chance to win a Golden Globe,
especially if someone has already paid for it.
Ill always go with whats funnier and, also,
WHEN PEOPLE ASK WHAT SCARES

ME I JUST SAY OOOH SPIDERS OR
FINDING A LUMP BUT ACTUALLY
ITS NOT BEING IN CHARGE
think itll sort everything out. Some people
dont exist if theyre not reading about
themselves in the paper or tweeting a picture
of themselves naked. Andy Warhol could
never have known how pathetic his statement
was. So even though Brents 55, hes slightly
more desperate, slightly more tragic, but still
trying... Hes more likeable because everyone
around him is an arsehole. Since The Ofce,
weve got The Apprentice where people get on
that show by saying, I will destroy anyone
that moves, anyone that stands in my way. Its
this new strange rhetoric of destroying
competition and being the best and kicking
people off the life raft. Weve got possibly the
future president saying things like, Take him
out. Id like to punch him in the face. When
did Eisenhower say that?
On not working with Stephen Merchant:

Everything in The Office was [written]
50/50, but Brent was always 100 per cent my
character. Well, thats not why I did it. I
couldve done it with 50 writers if I wanted to.
But I think the older you get, the more you
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Even a galaxy isnt vast enough

to contain this rising star, who is
as comfortable in arthouse drama
and biting satire as he is in the
planets best-loved franchise
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ost actors, when theyre plucked from obscurity to be a global star when they,
say, take one of the lead roles in the comeback of a much-loved space adventure,
one that went on to gross over $2 billion worldwide and reduce grown men to
tears at the sight of a Wookiee in a ship that can do the Kessel Run in less than 12
parsecs they dont often, how can we put this, necessarily go on to great things.
Sequels? For sure. Action toys? You bet. But a career? Just ask Mark Hamill.
Yet for the 24-year-old, Peckham-born John Boyega, who played Finn in
a certain lm called The Force Awakens, its a little different.
For one, unlike his co-star Daisy Ridley, he wasnt coming from a standing
start, having cut his teeth in indie hits such as Brit sci- Attack The Block and
the prestige Nigerian Civil War drama Half Of A Yellow Sun (in which he played
Chiwetel Ejiofors houseboy).
And for another, he didnt waste any time chalking up other projects to show
hes no one-lightsaber-pony, from The Circle, the adaptation of the Dave Eggers Silicon Valley satire, alongside Tom
Hanks and Emma Watson, to starring in Kathryn Zero Dark Thirty Bigelows forthcoming lm based on the 1967
Detroit race riots, to landing the lead in the ghting-robot extravaganza sequel Pacic Rim: Maelstrom, taking over
from Idris Elba by playing his son. Hes even found time to voice a rabbit in the remake of Watership Down (he
plays Bigwig).
Oh, and yes, theres also the small matter of Star Wars: Episode VIII, which he shot this summer and which is set
for release at the end of next year. Who else could even come close for GQs Vertu Breakthrough Actor Of The Year?
Its a different take, darker, bigger, is what Boyega will say of the latest instalment, while adding simply of Finns
rumoured romance with Ridleys Rey, Its not going to go the way you think its going to go. Boyega, of all people,
should know about that.
THE NEXT STAR WARS

WILL BE BIGGER AND
DARKER. ITS NOT GOING
TO GO THE WAY YOU
THINK ITS GOING TO GO
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The creative force behind Guccis

new golden age pulled off the
seemingly impossible: blending
his playful genius with the pure
power of international fashion
hen Alessandro Michele was asked
to step up to be Guccis new creative director in January 2015 it was
literally days before the new mens
collection was due to be shown to the worlds press.
In less than a week, Michele and his team organised every last detail from the clothes to the model
casting and the seating plan from scratch. And, just
like that, the world went mad for Gucci. It was a
triumph and a harbinger of greater things to come.
Rarely has a star been born so fully formed and
so talked about.
In fact, Michele, now 43, was working for Fendi
when he was rst hired at Gucci by Tom Ford in
2002, to work alongside him at his London studio.
Michele worked his way up through the company
until he was assistant to Fords successor, Frida
Gianinni, before being crowned as her successor.
It was like starting at Gucci again for the rst
time. Even though I knew everything about the
company, it was suddenly like looking at it from
a great distance. It was as if you had worked your
entire life in the cinema and suddenly youre the
director of the movie its completely different.
And it was a clean break from the past. Micheles
fashion-nerd androgyny hit a nerve and suddenly
it stood for what modern fashion is all about
a young, fresh mix of boys and girls where the
wearer makes up the rules, not the label. I have
to nd the right attitude and nd the right way to
dress guys and girls. Its like starting a new trip. Its
not about me wanting to convince you about the
length of hemlines. Its a whole world.
Unlike his mentor, Tom
Ford, who made every
collection a high-octane.
one-season-only event, a
Michele collection is more
like discovering a fabulous
dressing-up box in the attic. Tuxedo. Shirt. Bow
tie. Socks. Shoes.
You can keep what you All custom made by
have bought for years and Gucci. gucci.com
its chic, he explains. I love
to put something old into a new show. A wardrobe should be full of beautiful things that are not
just for one season. I think that people really can
recognise something thats authentic.
Michele is also very keen on allowing his customers to, well, customise. His Gucci DIY concept
allows you to create unique pieces. Its fun to play
a little. We are a big company so its difcult for us
to develop just one piece that is different from the
others but in this way you have a chance to create
gucci.com
something completely personal.
Story by
ALESSANDRO
MICHELE
FASHION DESIGNER
Photograph by
Trousers (as part of suit)

byBoss, 550. hugoboss.
com. Shoes byCrockett &
Jones. crockettandjones.
com. Socks by The
London SockCo, 12.
londonsockcompany.com
SPORTSMAN
Story by
Photographs by
Styling by
ANTHONY
JOSHUA
In the year he claimed the world
heavyweight title, we salute the
style and swagger of a British
boxing superstar. But a warning
for the rivals looking to cash in
on his success... he says he can
be twice as good as he is now

Suit, 550. Shirt, 109.
Bow tie, 59. Pocket
square, 35.All by Boss.
hugoboss.com
avile Row tailor Ozwald Boateng likes to take breakfast

meetings at Roux At The Landau in the Langham Hotel.
He prefers a private booth, out of the way, with a window
overlooking the top of Regent Street. Today, however, his
usual spot is occupied and he is a little annoyed about it...
until he spots who has taken his favourite table. Anthony
Joshua beams as Boateng comes over and, after a pound
hug and a brief chat, the suit-maker heads reluctantly for the second-best
table in the restaurant. Everyone, it seems, wants to meet the champ.
Joshua turns, laughs, then leans over slightly sheepishly. Oh, man,
heres me telling you and GQ about how humble I am and then Ozwald
comes over and ruins it for me! And he laughs out loud again. The IBF
heavyweight champion of the world, it has to be said, is a happy man.
When we meet, it is two weeks since the 26-year-old boxers successful
defence of the title he won in April at Londons O2 Arena. Having beaten
belt-holder Charles Martin in two rounds, Joshua was made to work
harder against Dominic Breazeale, eventually knocking him out in the
seventh. It was only the second time in his 17-ght pro career that an
opponent had survived close to 20 minutes in the ring with him. Future
challengers to Joshua should consider that the good news. The bad news?
I am only at 50 per cent of my potential right now, he says. I still
make silly mistakes, I dont get enough sleep, my diet could be better...
At the moment, I live like an ordinary man, not a full-time athlete.
You wouldnt know it to look at him. At 6ft 6in tall, weighing in at just
over 17 stone of solid muscle and with a punch that has separated all his
rivals from their senses, if Joshua wasnt so polite, friendly and charming,
hed be utterly terrifying. His story is also one of a bad boy made good.
Having had a few brushes with the law as a teenager in his home town
of Watford, Joshua took up boxing in 2007 at the age of 18. Five years
on he won gold at the London Olympics. Like his hero, Muhammad Ali,
Joshua won a world title just four years after turning pro.
And, also like the Greatest Of All Time, AJ is fast earning himself a
reputation as the peoples champion. He frequently responds to fans
on social media, he visits schools, signs autographs galore, always puts
his mum rst... he would probably kiss a baby or two if you asked him.
But his attitude is no PR exercise. It bafes me that people want a
picture with me. In my mind I am just an ordinary Joe Bloggs who
happens to box, he says. I dont feel special. Id like people to realise
we are all equal. Sportsmen, celebrities, musicians... were not gods,
were not superheroes. We are just human and we make mistakes.
People are people and the public shouldnt follow the hype. They should
follow the realness, follow the struggle. Because that means something.
For Joshua, that means even bigger ghts down the line. Tyson Fury,
Deontay Wilder and David Haye are just a few of the big men with big
names clamouring for a punch-up and a pay day with the champ. But
before he gets back in the ring again in November, there is one more
title up for grabs: GQ Sportsman Of The Year. Oh, that really is the big
one! he says. But this is just the rst GQ award for me. Remember,
Im only 50 per cent. Im going to be around for a while. I want to be
a GQ Man Of The Year every year. Im going to be a GQ man for ever!
WERE NOT GODS, WERE NOT SUPERHEROES
Dressed to impress:
Flanked by security,
Anthony Joshua
prepares to defend
histitle at Londons
O2Arena against
challenger Dominic
Breazeale, 25June
Grooming Davide Barbieri Special thanks to Coq dArgent
PEOPLE SHOULD
FOLLOW THE
REALNESS AND
THE STRUGGLE.
THAT MEANS
SOMETHING
Shirt, 109. Bow tie,

59.Cufflinks, 59.
AllbyBoss.
hugoboss.com
Opposite: Trousers
(aspart of suit) by Boss,
550. hugoboss.com.
Belt, Anthonys own
Simply
Elegant
Unmistakable face. Distinctive hands. Undeniably Swiss.
The renowned Official Swiss Railways Clock skillfully reproduced
as a watch.
Available from John Lewis and selected watch specialists nationwide.

For an illustrated catalogue and details of your nearest stockist telephone
0116 234 4656 or email info@bml-watches.com
Lucerne
Jacket, 600. Shirt,

179. Trousers, 225.
Bow tie, 49. All by
Boss. hugoboss.com.
Shoes, 695 by
Christian Louboutin.
christianlouboutin.com
He has been a leading light during Labours

darkest days and now, with the capital in his
capable hands, things can only get better.
The mayor of London gets our vote
POLITICIAN
SADIQ KHAN
Story by
adiq Khan knows a thing or two about winning. After defeating

erce competition from the bookmakers favourite, Tessa Jowell,
to secure the Labour London mayoral nomination, he faced a
Conservative campaign that had inuential media backing and
played dirty with dog whistle tactics. Yet his victory was unequivocal. My vindication was the results on 5 May: the biggest personal
mandate in the history of [UK] elections, he says. Thats the single
biggest mandate any individual has ever received.
So when GQs Politician Of The Year (Im really chuffed) delivers his
analysis of the EU referendum result, he does so with understandable
conviction. I thought the campaign was poor, says the pro-Europe
mayor, sitting in a meeting room at City Hall. There are a number of
reasons why I thought it was lost. I think youve got to give people
Photograph by
Styling by
an optimistic vision of hope. We allowed it to be portrayed as status

quo versus change, the change being leaving. He emphasises that he
wasnt involved in the campaign until right at the end. And then,
Unfortunately, because Jo [Cox] passed away, we suspended campaigning for a few days, which meant I couldnt do further trips around
the country. But Khan says there is no point complaining about what
happened during the referendum, Youve got to abide by the result.
Khan campaigned for Remain alongside David Cameron, who just
weeks earlier had attacked his mayoral credentials by accusing him of
sharing a platform with Sulaiman Ghani, an alleged Isis-supporting Imam.
The accusation was false, prompting Cameron to apologise to Ghani.
And also to the new mayor? No, he didnt, Khan says. But he shrugs
this off as less important than the endorsements Cameron did later give
him while on the EU campaign trail. Khan is clearly disappointed that
his own leader, Jeremy Corbyn, shunned such cross-party activity. I
think the Labour leadership should understand there are some things
bigger than tribal differences and party politics and whether we remain
or leave the EU is one of those things.
As we meet, the Labour party is riven by a vicious leadership contest.
Khan is guarded over whether it should split if Corbyn wins again, simply
stating that Labour should pick the candidate most likely to regain
Number Ten. I dont believe in heroic failure, he says. My concern is
if the Labour movement believes that somehow its OK to come second
I DONT BELIEVE
IN HEROIC FAILURE.
IT IS NOT OK TO
COME SECOND IN
AN ELECTION
in an election. Its not OK. Does he speak to Corbyn much? It has been
a while. Ive been extremely busy recently being the mayor of London,
as youll appreciate. So... no, we dont.
Khan has previously excluded himself from any future Labour leadership run, but can he rule out returning to parliament? Yes, he says. I
love being the mayor of London. Building a lasting legacy could require
a signicant amount of time in ofce. Boris Johnson was very lucky that
he cut the ribbons on projects begun by Ken Livingstone the Olympics,
the cycle hire scheme. I wont get to do that, he says, pointedly.
Despite their rivalry, Khan reveals, Johnson was swift to offer him
advice after his victory. Boris tried to ring me the next day and then
texted me. When they eventually spoke it was an incredibly generous
conversation. The piece of advice he gave me was, Dont rush to make
appointments. He regretted doing that in 2008. And so Ive taken on
board that advice.
While Johnsons Downing Street ambitions were scuppered, the
unlikely US presidential candidate, Donald Trump, seems to be
worryingly close to Pennsylvania Avenue. Khans support for Hillary
Clinton is well documented and he was a vocal critic of Trumps promise
to blanket-ban Muslims from entering the US. It being a two-horse race,
however, there is a very good chance he could win. Some of Trumps
policies might be bafing, but it is a choice for Americans to make,
he says. Well deal with whatever hand were dealt.
Robe, 250. Shirt,

130. Trousers, 190.
All by James Long.
jameslonguk.com.
Shoes by Gucci, 450.
At matchesfashion.com
BREAKTHROUGH FASHION DESIGNER
ames Longs career so far has run parallel to the reinvention

of London as the worlds premier menswear destination
thanks to LCM. When I rst started in menswear there
really werent many of us so we all had to stick together, he
says. Now it is crazy to see how much is happening.
Long was brought up in Northampton and studied for his MA
at the Royal College Of Art. He started his own label immediately after graduating in 2008, rst showing as part of the
Man initiative. He describes his style as slobulence
Its comfortable but theres glamour to it, he explains. His
collections are also coloured by a tongue-in-cheek sense of
humour and have gained a cult following Lanvins Lucas
Ossendrijver has described Long as his favourite young designer.
As well as running his own brand, Long is now creative
director at the Italian label Iceberg. It was a complete surprise,
he admits. But I have been completely wowed by its archive
and all the amazing techniques that date back to the Seventies.
I love it. And the best thing is that I can take so much away from
Iceberg to bring to my own label.
JAMES
LONG
Story by
Photograph by
Having been catapulted to catwalk megastardom after her show-stopping appearance

at Cannes this year, the Californian supermodel now has the world at her heels
THIS YEAR HAS BEEN

UTTERLY CRAZY.
IVE NEVER WORKED
SO HARD. I MEAN,
THAT RED DRESS...
HUGO BOSS MODEL
SPONSORED BY
Fragrance, Hugo Boss The Scent For Her, 50 for 50ml by Boss. hugoboss.com
Bella Hadid, 19, is precisely where she wants to

be: dainty feet up in her Los Angeles fortress,
with the whole of summer stretching out
before her like an endlessly rejuvenating yoga
pose. Hadid is always happiest when she is lost
and lazy in this part of the world, not only as
SoCal is where she grew up, but its also where,
more often than not, she comes to unplug from
life in fashions fastest lane: Im on holiday
now, she says grinning, curling herself up in
an effort to contain her bliss. Im probably the
luckiest person ever. Just sitting in my house,
no need to go anywhere, just me, my boyfriend
and Im all good...
In the space of just 12 months, Hadid has
become one of the worlds most successful
models, a rise that even her much in-demand
older sister, Gigi, would nd hard to match for
sheer gradient. Since September 2015, she has
been throwing all the right shapes for all the
right industry eyes from catwalk to couture
in a gallop to styles top table that has climaxed
this month by being honoured as GQs Model
Of The Year in association with Hugo Boss.
Its a rise that has left her with more than a
touch of vertigo. This entire year has been
utterly crazy, she giggles, unable to suppress
her wonder. Ive had so many opportunities;
the Givenchy campaigns and my work with
Ricardo [Tisci], the magazine covers Ive been

able to complete, my Dior Beauty contract.
My time at the Cannes Film Festival was also
pretty special. I have never worked harder. I
mean, that red dress...
If youre wise to the lingo youll know that
models tend to underplay their successes
by calling various projects opportunities.
What they really mean, behind all the hastily
erected modesty scaffolding and media spiel,
is, Oh, yeah that thing I did with such and
such a brand? I slayed it. You only have to
take a glance down Forbes highest earner list,
for example, to see how many opportunities
someone like Gisele Bndchen clocked up this
past year. If you missed Hadids opportunity
on La Croisette back in May, trust us, its worth
a moment of your screen time. Wearing a red
Alexandre Gauthier couture gown, Hadid hit
the French Rivera like a cross between Michelle
Pfeiffer in Scarface and Jessica Rabbit. If not a
career-dening turn for Hadid it was certainly
career-announcing: under the white rain of a
thousand ash bulbs the world suddenly had
its interest piqued.
If you know anything of Hadid, then youll
know her familys parallels with another set
of famous women from the same part of the
entertainment word: the Kardashians. Just
like the Kardashian clan, Bella Hadids career
roots lie in the realm of reality television, as
her mother, Yolanda, became a star of the
Real Housewives Of Beverly Hills back in 2012.
Yet, if Kris Jenner is cited as the pushy svengali momager behind the careers of Kim,
Kourtney, Khloe, Kendall and Kylie, then
Bellas mother, although herself prolic, did
all she could to keep her children, Gigi, Bella
and younger brother, Anwar, out of the media
spotlight. In fact, before being diagnosed with
Lyme disease a few years ago, Hadids hopes
had been pinned to equestrian sports, having
reached national level with a shot at representing the US at the Rio Olympics this summer not
being out of the question.
Yet for Bella, with the diagnosis came the
crushing realisation that a professional sporting
life would be more than difcult: the effects of
Lyme disease can include bouts of deep fatigue,
fever, chills, body ache and all manner of debilitating symptoms that would not only hamper
an athletes life but make the tour and torture
of combative competition next to impossible.

Instead, Hadid decided to follow her creative
spirit, moving to New York and enrolling to
study photography at Parsons School Of Art,
where she was able to nurture her interests at
her own pace, away from the harsh glare of
fame that was building back in Los Angeles.
I went to school for a year, Hadid explains
of her experience. I wanted to go to college
and I loved photography and it just made sense
at the time. Of course, the genetic lottery
gives as much as it takes away: horse ridings
loss was to be become fashions gain and soon
enough those opportunities would come
calling. Modelling just sort of came up. With
those rst jobs I took I never knew how long
I would last, so I always bugged the hell out
whichever photographer I would be working
with. I wanted to learn. I used to get in their
faces and ask as much as I could; I would be
the annoying model asking loads of technical
questions about lenses.
Was Hadid apprehensive about stepping foot
in a world renowned for its ckle toying with
new fresh talent? I was nervous. Seeing [the
fashion industry] from the outside I didnt
know what to expect. It is a really scary business, without being in it. But you work your
way up and you learn to deal with stuff.
Today shes more secure being part of the incrowd. As well she should be. Perhaps having
a famous R&B boyfriend, Abel Makkonen
Tesfaye AKA, multi-Grammy winning recording artist The Weeknd helped with her segue
into style superstardom? Sure. I think I keep
people around me that are grounded. I dont
run with a new crowd now. Its the only way I
can stay sane. That and grilled cheese it seems:
Oh, man, Im a grilled cheese freak. I know the
best place in LA whenever you are in town.
One woman Bella Hadid can always rely
on, however, is her older sister, Gigi: Shes
my big sister. We are so close. We dont even
have to talk and we just know. I learn from
her every day. She has changed so much
as a person in a good way. She is so free
and so loving. She taught me: be condent,
but not too condent. We calm each other
down. Another year and Gigis mindfulness
should come in handy. Without doubt Bellas
is a bright fashion star that has only just begun
to burn.
hugoboss.com
GIGI IS SO FREE AND LOVING. SHE

TAUGHT ME HOW TO BE CONFIDENT
I DIDNT KNOW WHAT

TO EXPECT, BUT AS
YOU WORK YOUR WAY
UP YOU LEARN HOW TO
DEAL WITH STUFF
Fragrance, Hugo Boss

The Scent For Her, 50
for 50ml. By Boss.
hugoboss.com
illy Connolly has always helped

me he helped me to become a
comedian and he helps me when
I get slightly confused about what
Im supposed to be doing. He can
make anything funny.
He gets laughs out of every story. He allows
himself to go down any road. He gets himself
into a ow and the audience is just along for
the ride. He can reach hilarity like nobody else.
There are comedians who get laughs, there
are some who get rolling laughs and there are
a few who can get hysteria. Billy Connolly is
the last of these. He is tear-wiping hysterical.
I remember watching his Audience With
and at one point hes talking about adverts,
and theres a bit about incontinence trousers
that you do up from the bottom. He mimes it
out and its just hysteria. Thats the difference.
A lot of comics, theyre hanging on the laugh
and waiting for the next one theyll get their
laugh and move on. He never does that.
I remember in one bit he talked about

Toblerone ten minutes on eating a Toblerone
and it was just brilliant. When you can nd
that much humour in shared experiences that
people dont even know theyve observed and
you can get a whole room of people laughing
hysterically and hanging on every word, it gets
me excited again. It really does.
There are not many punchlines in his standup. Or rather, he almost nds his punchlines
by accident. What youre really laughing at is
just his completely natural comedic expression
of everything and anything.
Billy Connolly plays the rooms he likes. Ive
always admired that. Ill do the arenas because
its great nancially, but Im always thinking I
should just be playing my favourite rooms and
becoming better. He plays his favourite rooms.
He plonks himself down there because it helps
him to go into his own world.
And hes doing it because its something
he needs to do. So many people move from
comedy into lm and TV and stuff and hes

done all that, but he just loves being in front
of a live audience. Otherwise, why would he
do it? Hes a true artist. Its like David Bowie
you just keep working, dont you? Hell keep
going to his last breath. He has an endless
amount to say because he nds the world
funny. Were all privileged to live with him
and enjoy it.
Stand-up seems really silly and every now
and then I ask myself what am I doing? Does
anyone care? Then I watch Billy Connolly and
I just think, oh, its art. It can be art.
I met him once at an awards event. He was
just rifng away, just being Billy Connolly. Id
done a cover on Time Out with a picture of
me standing on London that said The King
Of Comedy. He said, Youre the king of
comedy! Who the f*** is that guy? F*** off,
youre the king of comedy! That was actually
a lovely moment. And I would like to say that
he is the king of comedy.
INSPIRATION
Simply the stand-up by whom all others are judged. Michael McIntyre explains how the
comedians comedian is still going strong and finding the humour in everything
Story by
Photograph by
Jumper by Boss, 129.

hugoboss.com
HELL KEEP GOING TO HIS

LAST BREATH. HE HAS
AN ENDLESS AMOUNT
TO SAY BECAUSE HE FINDS
THE WORLD FUNNY
BAND
TAME IMPALA
ou used to not know who Tame
Impala were. Sure, youd drop
their name every once in a while
to impress the cute barista coldpressing your morning cortado, but
lets face it, you couldnt name one of their
albums. Then came summer 2015, somewhere
lying on a yacht off Formentera synching your
Spotify up with the local Wi-Fi you heard
Currents, the bands third long player, and all
of a sudden the cool, shoegazey, secret little
band you liked from Australia that had that
far out, psychedelic sound were everywhere.
We used to be flightless birds jumping
and frantically apping our wings, explains
Kevin Parker, the GQ Band Of The Years main
songwriter, lead singer, multi-instrumentalist,
chief producer and all round sonic auteur.
Now were these big pelicans that can soar
about the clouds and just stay up in the air as
Y
From left: Jay wears suit,
1,395. Shirt, 225. Both
by Burberry. burberry.
com. Sunglasses by
Oliver Peoples, 285.
oliverpeoples.com.
Kevin wears suit,
1,440.Shirt, 345.
Both by Gucci. gucci.
com. Shoes by Paul
Smith, 275. paulsmith.
co.uk. Sunglasses by
Tom Ford, 232. At
sunglasseshut.com.
Julien wears suit by
Burberry, 1,395.
burberry.com. Shirt by
Ralph Lauren, 145.
ralphlauren.co.uk
Shoes by Sperry, 150.
sperry.com. Dominic
wears suit, 1,295. Shirt,
225. Both by Burberry.
burberry.com. Cam
wears suit by Ralph
Lauren Purple Label,
3,745. ralphlauren.
co.uk. Vest by Calvin
Klein, 26. At Asos.
asos.com. Sunglasses
by Ray-Ban, 125.
ray-ban.com
long as we like, man. Parker, who started the

band back in his bedroom in Perth in 2007, is
something of a dreamer. His use of a creative
metaphor betrays a love for pop songs that
not only sound good, but take the listener
somewhere else. The vibe that resonates
through a Tame Impala live show is one of
mind-bending togetherness. Big grins abound.
I feel weve jacked it up a notch this year,
Parker concurs. Its like weve turned the
volume up. A year or so ago Id write the
album then take it on tour with the band, just
clamber up on stage and get through it. Now
its like a cross between a ying spaceship and
a theatrical performance. Ever since the age of
14, Ive wanted to be rock star. Its as simple
as that. Success doesnt make it any more
complicated, it just adds more dimensions.
And Im cool with that. And you know what
Kevin? We are too.
Grooming Joey George at The Wall Group
The Australian quintets latest album has taken them from cult psychedelic
dreamers to mainstream success and critical adulation. Let it happen...
Silver fox:
Claudio Ranieri raises
the Premier League
trophy with Leicester
City, 7 May 2016
OUTSTANDING ACHIEVEMENT
CLAUDIO RANIERI
Photograph Rex
GQ hails the mastermind behind the most improbable victory in the history of football
t is amazing what you can accomplish

if you do not care who gets the credit.
The quote itself, which ought to be the
teamship philosophy of every organisation in the world, is from former US
President Harry Truman. But the sentiment is
pure Claudio Ranieri.
No matter how hard you try to get him to
blow his own trumpet, the 64-year-old Italian
resists taking the plaudits for one of the greatest
sports stories of this or any other decade,
namely Leicester Citys rise from 5,000-to-one

outsiders relegation favourites, in fact to the
Premier League title. The Thai owners, the fans,
his 96-year-old mum, Renata, and above all, of
course, the players and coaches and support
staff... he sprays the credit around liberally. Not
for him the monotonous machine gun rattle of
the rst person singular; in Ranieris world, it
seems, we comes before I.
He insists: I dont know how it happened.
You must know, you did it?

Yes, but there is no secret. Just great
players, a great team.
When Ranieri was offered the job, the
reaction of the clubs most famous fan, Gary
Lineker, summed it up for many Claudio
Ranieri? Really? Not least because Ranieris
last post, as coach of Greeces national side, had
seen them beaten by the Faroe Islands, population 48,200. Did the criticism upset him? No.
People can have opinions; this is no problem.
He does recall, however, that the only league
he topped at the start of the season was the
bookmakers rst manager to be sacked odds
table. He ended the season not merely with
the Premier League title, but also the Italian
Order Of Merit.
This is a leader who really does seem to
live by his favourite line from the Rudyard
Kipling poem If, which he has been known
to recite to his players:
If you can meet with Triumph and Disaster/
And treat those two impostors just the same.../
Youll be a Man my son.
consistency and they didnt. Chelsea were

champions, but it did not work out well for
them. I dont know why they did so badly
and I dont know why we did so well. For sure,
something happened in the players. They were
good players, but they became better. You take
a player like [NGolo] Kant. He was amazing.
He is worth two players in one team. He is
everywhere. [Jamie] Vardy I liked. I always
knew he could score goals, but he scored so
many and [Riyad] Mahrez, I liked him but felt
he could be even better on the right side, so
we moved him there.
He pays tribute to the recruitment policy
that preceded him. Vardy had looked set for
a journeyman career when four years ago
he was with Fleetwood Town. At the same
time, Kant was playing for lowly Boulogne,
heading from Frances second to their third
division. And Mahrez was playing for Le Havre
reserves. From that to the PFA Player Of The
Year. Sometimes this happens, that one player
plays well and it makes others play well and
IN AN ERA OF MANAGERIAL
MIND GAMES AND TANTRUMS,
RANIERI HAS SHOWN THERES
ANOTHER WAY: WE BEFORE I
Triumph did not gure in his expectations
when he rst moved to the East Midlands.
He felt that if they could survive for two
successive seasons, then they could plan for
the next stage of development, perhaps aim as
high as a mid-table nish and, eventually, if all
went well, they might be able to think about
challenging for a place in the Europa League.
Yet now Champions League football is on its
way to the King Power Stadium.
As likely as Elvis being found alive, was
how Sports Illustrated headlined this great
soccer romance.
It is beautiful, he says. A beautiful story.
I think only football can do this. I love the
emotion of the game and when things like this
happen, I am a very lucky man.
It is a further sign of his modesty and
humility that he admits to luck being a big
part of the success. For some reason, none
of the big clubs could get consistency. When I
looked at the teams at the start of the season,
Chelsea was most likely to win the title. There
were many strong teams but not Leicester
nobody thought Leicester. But we found
the team starts to do better. We won more and

more games, everything seemed to work for
us, and then we started to believe anything
is possible. The spirit was unbelievable. There
was no fear. They wanted to play, they loved
to play. All of them. The spirit was so special.
It was a spirit, he says, that he rst noticed
shortly after taking the job. Unlike many new
managers, he focused less on what he might
change than all the things he wouldnt change
at all. I liked what I saw. Not just the quality
of the players, but the atmosphere, the ambience between them. There was something
really special there, I didnt want to change it
too much. He said that when he arrived, he
sat down and watched videos of all the games
in the latter part of the season, when former
manager Nigel Pearson presided over what
became known as the great escape. Bottom
for most of the season, they went on a run that
didnt just avoid the drop: six wins in eight
games was anything but relegation form. I
watched these games and saw so much good
football, says Ranieri. I thought, how have
they been so low in the league for so long?
He has had a fair amount of both triumph

and disaster in his many club and country
managerial positions. But this surpasses it all.
Even weeks afterwards, when we talk, he is still
buzzing with it. Everyone in football knows
it is a great feeling to score a goal. This is like
scoring a goal all the time. Most people in football will tell you this is the best league in the
world, because of the money, because of the
depth, the competition. So to win it, yes this is
the greatest success. Even then, though, note
how he says the greatest success, not my.
n an era when football managers have

become so much more than coaches,
when some are as high profile as
Hollywood stars and prime ministers, when they have become as well
known for their mind games and their tantrums as for their tactics and their coaching
methods, Ranieri has shown there is a different way. Modest. Humble. We before I. No
monopoly on credit. No attacks on opponents.
Unfailingly polite to the media. I respect everyone and I hope they respect me. When he
was presented, inevitably, with the Manager
Of The Year award by the League Managers
Association, his acceptance speech was all
about the players, the coaches, the owners,
the fans. Team, team, team.
He knows it will not be easy to repeat the
miracle. In an ideal world, he would keep all
the players together, but that is easier said than
done. Kant has left for Chelsea, Arsenal have
shown interest in Mahrez and Vardy remains
the subject of speculation despite signing a
new contract. Of course, this is normal, maybe
they can make more money. Before we had a
salary cap, now we have to give more to keep
them, but I dont want to lose the spirit. Also
to be in the Champions League means we need
virtually two teams, so of course we have to
buy new players. I want to keep all my players
but we need to bring in new ones and that is
a big part of this job, doing that but in a way
that doesnt damage the spirit we have. There
was a special link with these players. I cannot
describe it. Even when I speak in Italian I
cannot describe it. It is something you can
only feel. I have always had good links with
players in the different jobs I do but this was
different. This was something very special. This
is a special group.
It is because of what he led that group
to achieve, and his steadfast refusal to say
it is all, or even mainly, down to him, that
he is a worthy winner of the Outstanding
Achievement award. The David and Goliath feel
to Leicesters triumph was one of the reasons it
became such a big, and popular, story around
the world. The fact it was with a patently nice
guy at the helm was another.

TV ACTOR
AIDAN TURNER
With Poldark returning for a second bare-chested
series, the all-conquering period drama has made
the Irish anti-thesp favourite to be the next Bond
oldark star Aidan Turner has a
policy. When people spot him on
the Tube, glancing up from his
picture in the paper to see him
standing there in the flesh, he
doesnt act bashful, doesnt go all RedmayneCumberbatch golly-gosh modest; rather, the
33-year-old Irishman goes out of the way to
freak them out and make the situation even
more awkward.
Yeah. If they recognise me on the Tube,
I tend to wind people up quite a bit!
He even did it when he was sitting next to
a woman who opened a page in the Metro,
which displayed his Poldark character with
Ed Milibands head Photoshopped on (I may
have leaned over and said something to her).
Still, that moment displayed more than
Turners easy-going nature: when your
costume alone is famous enough to have the
then Labour leaders head transplanted onto
it and for people to get the joke, following a
topless scything scene that heralded Turner as
an instant tabloid heartthrob youve made it.
Even Turner admits the BBC One drama
was an unlikely one to make him a star as a
moody 18th-century landowner who ended
the rst series having lost a child, with his
marriage on the rocks and his business kaput,
and facing the death penalty for murder, it
sure isnt breezy yet peaking at 9.4 million
viewers, it was a smash.
But the genre isnt something thats on
TV now, he says of Poldark, which returned
earlier this month. You know, were not
Downton Abbey. Were not like other shows.
When GQ talks to Turner he is sailing on
a boat in the Adriatic (I mean, how bloody
glamorous is that?), which, if you believe the
bookies, is appropriate, as hes currently the
favourite to be the next Bond.
Yeah, I just dont entertain it at all, he says,
Im not interested in the gossip and stuff.
Fair enough. Though, of course, thats exactly
what an MI6 super-spy would say.
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Style assistant Jake Pummintr Grooming Carlos Ferraz at Carol Hayes
ICON
A glittering history of funk and pop supremacy was only the beginning for the master
collaborator, who continues to lend his vision to the planets mightiest musical talents
pend an hour in Nile Rodgers company and the
conversation veers from Chic, Sister Sledge and
Diana Ross through to Daft Punk, Pitbull and
Madonna via the inevitable chat about David
Bowie, whose album Lets Dance Nile produced
back in 1983. The most prolic man in pop has also worked
with Sam Smith, Lady Gaga, Avicii and Pharrell Williams,
though hes always open to more work. If youve got
talent, if youve got the right attitude and maybe some
money, then Ill listen to what you have to say. Im lucky
enough to be able to work with who I like.
Rodgers is famously the busiest man in show business,
and when he isnt playing guitar, writing, producing,
performing, collaborating or rehearsing, he can be found,
well, asleep. There just arent enough hours in the day
for the man who invented the funkiest guitar sound in
history and hes getting busier the older he gets (hes
Story by
Photograph by
currently 63). Five years ago he also penned a wonderful

book about his extraordinary life Le Freak: An Upside
Down Story Of Family, Disco And Destiny a life that was
actually more extraordinary before he started making
music. Rodgers was raised among bohemians, criminals
and drug addicts in Lower Manhattan, the Bronx and Los
Angeles by his African-American mother, white Jewish
stepfather and both biological grandmothers. And he
never looked back.
His book hasnt escaped the notice of Robert Fox who
produced the David Bowie show Lazarus who wants to
turn it into a full-blown stage production. I said that was
all very well and good, says Rodgers, smiling (he never
does anything but smile), but whos going to write it? And
Robert says that he wants me to write it, so Im going to
have to nd some time to do that too. After Ive nished
collecting my GQ Award, that is!
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WOMAN OF THE YEAR
From stand-up to television to film and now autobiography, GQ laughs long and loud
with the funniest woman, sorry, the funniest human being in the world
my Schumer has a cold. Well, actually,

she has a lot more than that. Shes
sick. Shes been in and out of her local
hospital, had blood taken and then taken
again. Photoshoots have been cancelled, ights
postponed, panicked emails sent and the entire
Story by
crew of the lm shes shooting in Hawaii with

Goldie Hawn are all on standby. But such
are the high-class problems that emphasise
the 35-year-olds remarkable rise, from her
smash-hit lm, Trainwreck, to her Peabody
Award-winning TV show, Inside Amy Schumer,
Photograph by
to her lthy-funny, hold-nothing-back sell-out

stand-up shows.
She is, simply, the funniest woman in the
world right now and, actually, just the funniest person. She is also GQs undisputed Woman
Of The Year.
Styling by

I guess its a sign of how well youre doing that one sickness spins
all these other things out of orbit...
Why didnt I look at it like that? Yeah. Maybe I wasnt even really sick and I
just wanted to remind people you know, you f***ing need me, you know?
If Im not here, guys... guess what? Nothings happening.
Youve got a new book, The Girl With The Lower Back Tattoo, whichis
both very funny and moving about your family. Why did you want
to write it?
Moooney. But more like I have kept journals from every moment of every
day of my life, from the ages of 12 to 23. So, actually, its not that much
when you break it down...
You took your mum to your rst stand-up set what were the jokes?
One of the rst things I asked was, Who here has an STD? and then I
raised my hand. So there were elements [of her future stand-up] in there.
Do people confuse your stage persona and you?
A little... but its not as bad as I was afraid it was going to be. But also, you
know, I dont want to take like a shot with you. I really dont drink that much.
Has your stand-up changed? Is the persona getting closer to you?
Yeah, more and more. In the early years there probably would have been a
good percentage of people who probably would have been voting for Trump
or that sort of a person and now I dont think theres many left. I mean, the
possibility of Trump being elected is so upsetting, to the point where I dont
know if I would want to bring kids into this world.
A highlight of your TV show was the full-episode 12 Angry Men
parody, where theyre debating if youre hot enough for TV. Was
that hard to get made?
Um, well, I just lied. I lied! They said to me, You cant only be in it for one
second. And I was like, Oh yeah, Ill show up throughout. So I lied to the
network. But they were cool. Then they were like, We cant afford to build
the set. I was like, Were building the set. I will buy it.
ver the past decade or so, Richard Caring has quickly

and condently developed the most glamorous and
successful hospitality portfolio in the world.
It started with the acquisition of Caprice Holdings
(Le Caprice, J Sheekey) and the Birley Group
(Marks Club, Harrys Bar) and continued with investment in the
Soho House chain. But it didnt end there. If one of his dining
landmarks needs a refurbishment (The Ivy, Scotts), Caring
spares no expense. If theres an opportunity for brand expansion
at home (as with The Ivy Collection in London and most
recently in Bristol) or abroad (Cecconis in LA, Daphnes in
Barbados), he grabs it with both hands.
And if he wants a restaurant that doesnt exist, well, Caring
will simply invent it. From the instantly iconic 34 Mayfair to the
launch of the stunning Sexy Fish a gloriously inexplicable
explosion of art, onyx, aquariums and crocodiles late last year,
which instantly became the capitals hottest dining destination,
Caring has a natural instinct for what works.
As GQ Contributing Editor AA Gill summed up, Caring is
creating the restaurant equivalent of LVMH. If that doesnt
deserve our entrepreneurial recognition, nothing does. Plus, if
it helps us get a table...
RICHARD CARING
ENTREPRENEUR
You had to write insults about yourself for that was that weird?
Well, its weird when the laugh is too big, you know? On the set of this
movie, we were joking about what Trainwreck would be called in Italy. I said
it would be Fat Girl And The Old One. And people just exploded in laughter.
I was like, God damn it.
In the book its clear your fearless humour comes from your dad.
Whats an example?
At the hospital he lives in [he has MS], the most formal dining room is on
the rst oor. But he eats on the second. And so my sister and I are like,
Youre not ready for the rst oor, Dad. You know, like, youre not a rst
oor guy. And this woman walks by with a walker, like an hour later, and
hes like, Seventh oor. Hes still got it.
Some of the funniest parts of the book are about the things you do
to torture your poor agent...
I use every opportunity to humiliate him. In a room full of comedians, Ill

always give him the oor: Alan, do you want to say some words? Hes so
shy. One night we went out for dinner and we asked the waiter if he could
tell him his card is declined, but all of them. He must have gone through like
30 cards. He was sweating. So he doesnt tell me what hes doing anymore.
You know, because if he told me, Im doing a triathlon, at the nishing line
Id have booked jugglers and people to come out with a cake.
Youre still good friends with people back home in Long Island. Is it
true they made you introduce them to Jennifer Lawrence?
No, it was because my girlfriends and I have a beach house, so I said to

Jennifer, Why dont you come? and she said, Im gonna f***ing come.
Were your friends freaked out?
No, its a part of what I love about them. They all act like, Yeah, Jennifer
Lawrence would be so lucky to hang out with us. There was never a reaction like, Oh my gosh, Jennifer is gonna hang out with us not for one
second. Anyway, shes the kind of person where if she walks into a room
and sees a baby, then she will be holding the baby for the rest of the night.
There are no boundaries or formalities.
The Girl With The Lower Back Tattoo (Gallery Books, 7.99) is out now.
Suit by Tom Ford. 2,190. At Harrods. harrods.com. Shirt, 119.

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Watch, Richards own
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EDITORS SPECIAL AWARD
He was the exception to the

rule and so is this award:
remembering British musics most
fearless artist and his indelible
contribution to our culture
ts tempting, when a much-loved celebrity passes away, to mistake our sadness
for grief and amplify cultural loss to
personal. Yet when David Bowie died
in January this year, aged 69, we could
all be forgiven for confusing the two. We
knew there would never be another like him
someone who revolutionised the very idea
of what a musical artist could be and strive for,
who itted between personas as he challenged
the very nature of sexuality, fashion, art and
music, leaving an indelible mark on all our
lives. He sold 140 million albums worldwide,
but his real achievements cannot be quantied.
This is what grief is: the feeling of genuine loss.
There was also no one but David Bowie who
could make photographer Markus Klinko ignore
the three unbreakable rules that governed his
work: no celebrities, no men and no black and
white. In August 2001, Bowie asked him to
shoot the cover for his album, Heathen. Bowie
wanted it in black and white. Thats not what
I do, said Klinko, distressed. Youre going to
do a great job, Bowie replied. Because thats
what you do. A week later, Klinko shot the
male pop star in black and white and his three
rules have remained broken ever since.
Ever the actor (the Saturn Awards 1976 Best
Actor for The Man Who Fell To Earth), Bowie
arrived at Klinkos studio armed with props:
books, paper, pens, cigarettes and crosses on
chains. His vision was precise: a frustrated
writer who has given up on religion. He was
like a method actor, a scientist, says Klinko.
He was enlightened. When Klinko heard
Bowies nal album , he was again struck
by his vision. It was brilliant, says Klinko.
Artistically, he made the most of death.
Klinkos fondest memory of Bowie was when
Bowie came to the studio to see the photographs of himself from 2002s GQ Men Of The
Year shoot. He bumped into a ock of halfnaked women from another shoot on the stairs.
He just stared at them, says Klinko. Then
he broke into a huge smile and said, Now this
reminds me of the Seventies. And, with his
signature quick wit, Bowie added, Not that I
remember the Seventies.
It was just perfect, says Klinko. A little
snapshot of Bowie that Ill never forget.
There will never

beanother like him
someone who
revolutionised what
a musical artist
could be
Postproduction Koala
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TV PERSONALITY
BEAR GRYLLS
Grooming Chloe Botting using Schwarzkopf
Whether hes convincing film stars to eat unspeakable things or coaxing Barack Obama into
grizzly country, this wilderness whisperer reigns supreme on the small screen
ity the poor celebrity who assumes

that a weekend away with Bear
Grylls will be nothing more than a
bracing trek in the woods, possibly
some climbing, almost certainly a
Thermos flask. Exertion? Sure. But not real
exertion. Theyre Hollywood A-listers after all.
They cant be seen to sweat. What would the
make-up artists do?
Its perhaps part of the global success story
of Running Wild With Bear Grylls, then, that
Americas nest dont just get put through hell
running until they think theyll pass out in the
snow, scaling sheer rock faces, making camp in
caves but that he also makes them eat it too.
Weve had Zac Efron chowing down on worms
Story by
and eggs in the Catskill Mountains, Kate Winslet

eating worms without even the eggs on the side
in Snowdonia, and Channing Tatum forced to eat
a delicious meal of scorpion and rattlesnake in
Yosemite, which theyd recently been forced to
kill. Its the Im A Celebrity... challenge for people
who actually are celebrities.
The zenith came earlier this year when Grylls
somehow convinced the leader of the free world,
one Barack Obama, to take part (to be fair, he
only had to eat a wild salmon in Alaska that a
bear had chewed on). It had 3.3 million viewers
and was Channel 4s highest-rating 8pm show in
three years. In the States, it airs on NBC and is
currently on its third series, for which the likes of
Vanessa Hudgens, Nick Jonas and former Friends
Photograph by
star Courteney Cox were served up something

utterly diabolical by the GQ columnist.
Its perhaps Cox who got the worst deal, after
they came across a rotten sheep full of maggots,
meaning they couldnt eat the sheep, but could
eat the maggots; they transported them back to
camp in the sheeps testicle sack. When GQ gets
in touch with Cox, she says that wasnt even the
worst part. No, rappelling down a sheer cliff
on a very windy day was. I thought I might die
just getting to the rock where we could tie off.
So what made her take part in the rst place?
At rst, I thought it was a good opportunity
to go to Ireland and learn where my partner,
Johnny, is from. And now? I should have
watched more episodes!
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Set phasers to stun: our

International interplanetary
Man Of The Year is staking
his claim on every genre going
INTERNATIONAL MAN
ts one thing as Chris Pine has done to star

in one of the best received Star Trek lms to
date, one that even the august New Yorker
said is not just a blast, but, at moments, a
thing of beauty. But to then star in a lm which
is an antidote to such spaceship-blasting, teethchattering, megaplex-migraine fare, in the form
of modern Western Hell Or High Water a stunning Seventies throwback which, for GQs money,
is the best lm of the year so far almost feels
like cheating. Variety called it the movie of the
summer, and theyre not wrong.
Luck and talent played its part in the rst no
bad gig, reviving the swaggering Kirk for a new
generation in one of the most iconic franchises
of all time but to star a few months later in the
kind of lm that basically doesnt exist anymore?
And get rave reviews for your role in it? For that,
theres only one accolade that will do and thats
GQs International Man Of The Year.
Its a great honour, says the 36-year-old. Im
happy to join the ranks of the gallant gentlemen
that came before.
If Star Trek Beyond sees Pine once again as the
noble, clean-shaven captain who always does
whats best, its indicative of his evolution that,
despite boasting the kind of pretty-boy looks
that made him a brand ambassador for Armani,
hes slipped seamlessly into character-actor
respectability, helped by no small talent, some
mid-thirties grizzle and the kind of moustache in
which it would be impossible to play anyone any
way other than morally ambiguous (he plays one
of two bank-robbing brothers in West Texas, but
then you probably guessed that from the tache).
Next up, Pine is back in blockbuster mode
this time, feminist-friendly love interest mode
playing Wonder Womans other half, Steve
Trevor. Truly, a man for all genres.
Photograph August
I WROTE THE
RIGHT SONGS
AT THE RIGHT
TIME. I PICKED
THE RIGHT
GENRE OF MUSIC
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Outshining all earnings lists, commanding six-figure sums a show, and working with Rihanna
and yes Taylor Swift, this years musical superman stands alone as the DJ king of EDM
ix years ago, Calvin Harris decided to
start again. Three years into a moderately successful career, he was
fed up with singing, touring, doing
interviews and reading reviews that
were invariably unkind: everything, really. I
was just pissed off, he says now. The frustration became unmanageable. So he chose
to sack it off and spend all his time in his
Islington studio, making tracks and nally
learning to DJ.
This, it has become abundantly clear, was
the smartest decision of his life. Harris commitment to DJing led to a tour with Rihanna,
which led to her recording his song We Found
Love, which topped the Billboard Hot 100
for ten weeks, which enabled him to sign
an exclusive DJ deal with Wynn Las Vegas
just as the EDM industry was going nuclear,
which made him, in 2013, the worlds highest
paid DJ. Its safe to say that he is no longer
pissed off.
I got lucky in different ways, he says
evenly. I wrote the right songs at the right
time, I picked the right genre of music, I started
DJing in the US at the right time. If I hadnt
made all of these reckless decisions, I wouldnt
have been put in that place. Every time I play
in front of people Im celebrating the fact I got
Story by
out of that situation.

The career of GQs Patrn Tequila Solo Artist
Of The Year demands superlatives. His 2012
album, 18 Months, was the rst ever to feature
nine UK top ten singles. Last year, he topped
Forbes list of Electronic Cash Kings for
the third year running, earning $66 million
(44m), nearly twice as much as his nearest
rival, David Guetta, and eclipsing even Jay Z
and The Rolling Stones. While he was dating
Taylor Swift (well get to that), he was one-half
PATRN TEQUILA SOLO ARTIST
SPONSORED BY
Photographs by
of pops highest-earning couple. This year

alone he became the rst DJ to headline the
Coachella festival and scored another global
mega-hit with Rihanna, This Is What You
Came For. His CV could convincingly be
reduced to a long chain of dollar signs and
exclamation marks.
But the man himself is disarmingly low-key.
Sitting in the Beverly Hills home he purchased
when he began his Vegas residency (since
switched to the rival Hakkasan Group), Harris
is an unappable, drily humorous 32-year-old
with a mild Scottish accent and the nonchalant air of someone with nothing left to prove.
I expected more ambitious intensity from a
man who swapped London for LA, transformed
himself from a skinny electro-pop geek into a
bronzed Action Man, dated one of the worlds
most famous women and has a tattoo reading
Enter With Boldness: a line from Robert
Greenes Machiavelli-on-steroids book The 48
Laws Of Power. Thats pretty old, he says,
slightly embarrassed. I might get it removed.
People think, Shit, this must be a massively
crucial life motto! But no.
OK, but surely the Charles Atlas makeover
that made him the body of Emporio Armani
underwear betrays an intense will to power?
Not at all, he insists. You go to a town where
Styling by
Shirt, 129. Trousers,

149. Both by Boss.
hugoboss.com
IM BECOMING
A PRODUCT OF MY
SURROUNDINGS.
MY PERSONALITY
HASNT CHANGED
Suit, 2,150. Shirt, 360.

Tie, 125. All by Dior
Homme. dior.com
working out is a daily occurrence for 90

per cent of people, you turn into that. The
same way as if I go back home to Scotland Ill
get a burger at 4am. Its really just becoming
a product of your surroundings. My personality
hasnt changed. Ive grown up. Thats all it is.
Can becoming the unchallenged emperor of
dance-pop really be that simple?
s a teenager in Dumfries, Adam
Wiles (all his friends still call him
Adam) loved Britpop, house music
and, especially, Fatboy Slims poptastic breakbeats. His rst two
albums are basically the blueprint for everything I ever wanted to do, he says.
He thought he should be releasing dance
records himself. I thought I was f***ing
awesome and deserved a record deal when I
was 17, which wasnt true. I was bad. Once
youve got your 100th rejection letter, you
begin to think, You know, maybe Im not that
good after all. Maybe my condence was misplaced. Had I got a record deal back then Id be
Following an intensely prolic year or so

in his Islington bunker (I felt like everything lined up), the blockbuster success of
18 Months led to another psychological turning
point. Everything I achieved exceeded my
expectations to the extreme, he says. I knew
that if it ended the day after I won an Ivor
Novello for Songwriter Of The Year [in May
2013] Id be happy with what I did.
Harris manager, Mark Gillespie, and agent,
Joel Zimmerman, were instrumental in pushing
him to the front of the EDM pack. Managers
and booking agents can be kingmakers in
dance music, says Matt Medved, dance music
editor at Billboard magazine. Thats not to
take away from Calvins achievements hes a
talented producer/songwriter and a bona de
hitmaker but his top-notch team helped him
reach the top.
Of course, not everybody loves what Harris
does. To the dance music cognoscenti, hes
the face of big, dumb, commercial EDM, a
style as lucrative yet divisive as disco was 40
years ago. I love EDM, Harris counters. I
WITH TAYLOR, I WAS PROTECTING

MY ONE TALENT BEING
BELITTLED. THINGS WERE PILING
ON TOP OF ME AND I SNAPPED
an unbelievable prick right now, so Im grateful that I didnt.
Harris moved to London in 2003 to crack
the music industry but soon ran out of money
and returned to Dumfries, where he was no
longer convinced of his f***ing awesomeness.
Working in M&S and a sh factory will do that
to an ego. But his perseverance eventually paid
off and, with 2007s wry electro-pop bauble
Acceptable In The Eighties, Harris was on
his way.
Harris was good at making pop records
he had four top ten hits but pretty bad at
being a pop star: shy, over-sensitive, a bit
testy. He did daft things like waging war with
the editor of the NME and rushing the stage
on The X Factor with a pineapple on his head.
I was so off-key and awkward, he says. I
wasnt a sociable person. Take a guy like that
and even talking to people you havent met
before is wild.
It was producing Dizzee Rascals 2008 No1,
Dance Wiv Me, that made Harris realise he
was happier working with vocalists instead of
doing it all himself. That was a lifeline, he
says. I always said to myself that this would
be a year, max, and then things would go back
to normal. I thought Id had my run.
love Nineties rave videos of people in a eld

in Amsterdam wearing ridiculous clothes and
having an amazing time. Everything going on
now is all from that. Its just the newer, shinier,
American version and Im ne with it.
Harris is so successful as a DJ, producer and
songwriter because hes a sincere populist who
uses his deep knowledge of dance music to
make supersized pop records for people who
might know nothing about dance music. He
has no aspirations to make an earnestly experimental album for cool points. If I released a
self-indulgent album now, who wants to listen
to that? Nobody. What, Im going to try and
release an album to get good reviews? Why?
He laughs pointedly. Theyd pan it anyway.
Obviously, Harris people-pleasing instincts
have certain benets, which brings us to the
indelicate question of his gazillion-dollar
income. Are there moments when, given his
modest origins, getting $300,000 a night for
playing records feels utterly absurd?
Im not sure how I feel, he ponders. If
someone had come up to me in the sh factory
and given me $300,000 I dont know what I
would have done. But it doesnt work like that,
does it? Its life. Things change. Im not going to
drive myself insane thinking about it.
Harris life these days is fairly simple. He

avoids distractions and craves routine. Every
weekday, he wakes up, goes to the gym, has
breakfast and spends the whole day in his
home studio.
Im definitely happier just hanging out
on my own in a room, he says. Ever since
Ive been a kid thats the case. I still have
no hobbies. At some stage it would be great
to learn to do something else. I have a very
limited repertoire.
nly one event this year has shaken

Harris composure and it was a big
one. In June, his 15-month relationship with Taylor Swift came
to a seemingly amicable end, but
a few weeks later Swifts camp leaked the fact
that she had co-written This Is What You
Came For under a pseudonym. Harris, who
wrote everything except the lyrics, blew up on
Twitter: I gure if youre happy in your new
relationship you should focus on that instead
of trying to tear your ex-BF down for something to do.
Because Swift is to the gossip industry
what great white sharks are to the Discovery
Channel, Harris tweets caused an online
restorm that instantly made him wish hed
kept schtum.
It was completely the wrong instinct, he
says, sighing. I was protecting what I see as
my one talent in the world being belittled. It
felt like things were piling on top of me and
that was when I snapped.
He pauses. Its very difcult when something I consider so personal plays out very
publicly. The aftermath of the relationship
was way more heavily publicised than the
relationship itself. When we were together,
we were very careful for it not to be a media
circus. She respected my feelings in that
sense. Im not good at being a celebrity. But
when it ended, all hell broke loose. Now I
see that Twitter thing as a result of me succumbing to pressure. It took me a minute to
realise that none of that matters. Im a positive guy. Another pause. For both of us it
was the wrong situation. It clearly wasnt
right, so it ended, but all of the stuff that
happened afterwards... The sentence drifts
off into oblivion.
Usually when someone insists that he is a
positive guy and doesnt care about criticism
you suspect the opposite is true, but Harris
really does appear to be eerily well-adjusted.
If he wasnt a musician, hed make a pretty
convincing life coach. Hes found the one
thing hes good at, he loves it to death and he
does it as often as possible. The rest is noise.
I know who I am and I know what I do, says
dance musics Sixty-Six Million Dollar Man.
Ive nally got it down.
Shirt by Louis Vuitton,

310. uk.louisvuitton.
com. Jeans by Philipp
Plein, 550. plein.com
EVERYTHING
GOING ON NOW
IS THE NEWER,
SHINIER,
AMERICAN
VERSION OF EDM.
AND IM FINE
WITHTHAT
Suit, 2,090. Shirt, 220.

Bow tie, 125. All by
Dolce & Gabbana.
dolcegabbana.com
IF I HADNT
MADE RECKLESS
DECISIONS,
I WOULDNT
HAVE BEEN PUT
IN THIS PLACE
Shirt, 210. Trousers,

330. Both by Canali.
canali.com. Sunglasses
by Barton Perreira, 375.
At matchesfashion.com,
Cufflinks by Boss, 125.
hugoboss.com
Production
Michael Skiny Power
Production manager
Sarah Kim
Grooming
Candice Birns at Crosby
Carter Management
using Oribe Haircare
Digital technician
Dale Gold
Style assistant
Paul Mintzer
Special thanks to The
Beverly Hills Hotel
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
FROM GQ! INTERACTIVE EDITIONS

Available to download from the App Store and Google Play
DRINKS
Raise a toast to this years winners with this sparkling mix of conversation lubrication
he 19th annual GQ Men Of The Year Awards were not only a chance for the Tate
Modern to host the best and brightest names in fashion, lm, television, sport, politics, music and literature but also for guests and award winners to share an evening
of rened conversation.
And, of course, it didnt hurt that our chief drinks sponsor is Patrn Tequila,
who were serving not one, not two, but three cocktails on the night the classic Patrnic
with tonic water and an orange peel twist, a Perfect Patrn Margarita and, for a mid-evening
pick-me-up, their Espresso Martini. Of course, there was something for every palate: so
there was also Laurent-Perrier Brut for those who wanted to toast their success in style,
there was great white wine (Berry Bros & Rudd Chilean Sauvignon Blanc by Vina Quintay),
brilliant red (Berry Bros & Rudd Good Ordinary Claret), Asahi lager, Whitstable Bay ales and
a choice of soft drink for everyone else. After all, even famous people have a job to go to.
These ranged from the nest water (Acqua Panna and San Pellegrino) to original cola (CocaCola and Diet Coke) to Schweppes Tonic Water and Soda to, nally, Luscombe soft drinks in
the most enticing of avours (Sicilian Lemonade, Cranberry Crush and Hot Ginger Beer) to
match our most enticing of guests.
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
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A
Corneliani
corneliani.com
@corneliani_official
Harvey Nichols
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@harveynichols
AG Jeans
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@agjeans
CP Company
cpcompany.co.uk
@cpcompanyuk
Herms
hermes.com
@hermes
Astrid Andersen
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@cpcompanyuk
Alexander McQueen
alexandermcqueen.com
@worldmcqueen
Bally
bally.co.uk
@bally_swiss
Belstaff
belstaff.co.uk
@belstaff
Berluti
berluti.com
@berluti
Birkenstock
birkenstock.co.uk
@birkenstock
Bluemint
bluemint.com
@bluemint
Bottega Veneta
bottegaveneta.com
@bottegaveneta
Brioni
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@brioni_official
Brunello Cucinelli
brunellocucinelli.com
@brunellocucinelli
Daks
daks.com
@dakslondon
Sunspel
sunspel.com
@sunspelclothing
Herschel Supply Co
herschelsupply.com
@herschelsupply
House Of Fraser
houseoffraser.co.uk
@houseoffraser
AG Heuer
tagheuer.co.uk
@tagheuer
Hugo Boss
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Tateossian
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Hunter
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Taylor Morris
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WC
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Moncler
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Prada
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Thomas Sabo
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Dolce & Gabbana

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Jaeger
Mondaine
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Pringle
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Montblanc
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Rado
Timberland
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DSquared2
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Dune
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@dune_london
jaeger.co.uk
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J Crew
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Native Youth
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@rado
@brunellocucinelli
Jimmy Choo
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native-youth.com
@native_youth
Ralph Lauren
ralphlauren.com
@ralphlauren
John Smedley
johnsmedley.com
@johnsmedleyknitwear
Next
next.co.uk
@nextofficial
Ray-Ban
ray-ban.com
@rayban
armani.com
@armani
John Varvatos
johnvarvatos.com
@johnvarvatos
Nixon
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@nixon_now
Reiss
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Ermenegildo Zegna
zegna.com
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Junghans
junghans.de
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Oliver Peoples
Richard James
richardjames.co.uk
@richardjamesofficial
Etro
etro.com
@etro_official
it And Ace
kitandace.com
@kitandace
Oliver Spencer
oliverspencer.co.uk
@oliverspencer
Lacoste
Omega
omegawatches.com
@omega
Dunhill
dunhill.com
@alfreddunhill
Emporio Armani
GH Bass & Co
Gieves & Hawkes
gievesandhawkes.com
@gieveslondon
Calvin Klein Collection
Giuseppe Zanotti
giuseppezanottidesign.com
@giuseppezanottiworld
Giorgio Armani
armani.com
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Gucci
gucci.com
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H&M
Churchs
church-footwear.com
@churchs
Hackett
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Citizen
citizenwatch.com
@citizenwatch
Hardy Amies
hardyamies.com
@hardyamieslndn
Coach
coach.com
@coach
Harrods
harrods.com
@harrods
hm.com
@hm
Lanvin
lanvin.com
@lanvinofficial
Louis Vuitton
louisvuitton.co.uk
@louisvuitton
Oris
oris.ch
@oriswatch
Orlebar Brown
orlebarbrown.co.uk
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RM Williams
rmwilliams.com.au
@rmwilliams_official
Russell & Bromley
russellandbromley.co.uk
@randbman
Tods
tods.com
@tods
Tom Ford
tomford.com
@tomford
Tommy Hilger
uk.tommy.com
@tommyhilger
Topman
topman.com
@topman
Turnbull & Asser
turnbullandasser.co.uk
@turnball_asser
Uniqlo
uniqlo.com
@uniqlo_uk
Versace
Pal Zileri
uk.versace.com
@versace_official
Vertu
vertu.com
@officialvertu
Victorinox
victorinox.com
@victorinox
Lyle & Scott

lyleandscott.com
@lyle_and_scott
palzileri.com
@palzileri
Paul Smith
paulsmith.co.uk
@paulsmithdesign
ysl.com
@ysl
Philipp Plein
plein.com
@philippplein78
Salvatore Ferragamo
ferragamo.com
@ferragamo
histles
whistles.com
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Sand
sandcopenhagen.com
@sandcopenhagen
William & Son

williamandson.com
@williamandson
Seiko
seiko.co.uk
@seikowatchofficial
Woolrich
woolrich.eu
@woolrichpeople
Selfridges
selfridges.com
@theofficialselfridges
Wooyoungmi
wooyoungmi.com
@wooyoungmiofficial
ackintosh
mackintosh.com
@mackintoshofficial
Marks & Spencer
marksandspencer.com
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Massimo Dutti
massimodutti.com
@massimodutti
matchesfashion.com
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Michael Kors
michaelkors.com
@michaelkors
@mackintoshofficial
Christopher Ward
christopherward.co.uk
@chriswardlondon
lacoste.com
@lacoste
oliverpeoples.com
@oliverpeoples
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Bulgari
bulgari.com
@bulgariofficial
Burberry
uk.burberry.com
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Canali
canali.com
@canali1934
Sunday Somewhere
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Dior Homme
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@dior
ghbass-eu.com
@ghbass
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@calvinklein
Smythson
smythson.com
@smythson
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cne Studios
acnestudios.com
@acnestudios
October 2016
Saint Laurent
Vilebrequin
uk.vilebrequin.com
@vilebrequin
The winner of
major awards
GQ is the only magazine in Britain dedicated to bringing you the very best in style,
investigative journalism, comment, mens fashion, lifestyle and entertainment.
British GQ is the magazine to beat
2015
DMA Mens Lifestyle Magazine Of The Year
2015
FMJA Stylist Of The Year (GQ Style)
2014
BSME Digital Art Director Of The Year
2014
DMA Designer Of The Year
2014
TCADP Media Award
2014
FPA Feature Of The Year
2014
2014
2014
2014
2013
2013
2013
2013
FPA Journalist Of The Year

Amnesty International Media Award
PPA Editor Of The Year
FMJA Online Fashion Journalist Of The Year
EICA Media Commentator Of The Year
DMA Mens Lifestyle Magazine Of The Year
BSME Editor Of The Year
FMJA Outstanding Contribution To
London Collections Men
PPA Magazine Writer Of The Year
Mark Boxer Award
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The Maggies Magazine Cover Of The Year
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,:)?16/
WV \PM XI[\
Detail of ceiling decoration drawn by Francis Terry
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Architect Francis Terry is

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Badgers in Great Caneld, Essex,

was designed by Quinlan and
Francis Terry. Price on application.
Contact Savills on 020 3581 3581;
www.savills.co.uk
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The Clock House Chelsea SW3
An iconic landmark in Chelsea located between Kings Road and Fulham Road on this historic street in the heart of Chelsea.
Entrance Hall Drawing Room Formal Dining Room Kitchen Breakfast Room with Family Dining Family Sitting Room Master Bedroom Suite
Three Further Bedroom Suites One Further Bedroom with Roof Terrace One Further Shower Room Games Room and Wine Wall Cinema
Study Gym/Playroom Sauna Laundry Room Staff Kitchen, Sitting Room and Rest Room Staff Shower Room Commercial Kitchen
Service/Dining Room Lift (between Ground and Lower Ground Floors) Three Guest Cloakrooms Off Street Parking Front Garden
West-Facing Landscaped Rear Garden Storage Room EPC Rating F
F R E E H OLD
P R IC E O N A P P L I C AT I O N
020-7225 0277
www.russellsimpson.co.uk
Wilton Row Belgravia SW1
An architecturally-acclaimed, low-built double fronted house facing south and situated on possibly Belgravias prettiest private mews courtyard.
Entrance Hall Drawing Room Dining Room Study Kitchen Breakfast Room/Garage Master Bedroom with Bathroom and Dressing Room Ensuite
Bedroom Two with Bathroom and Dressing Room Ensuite Two Further Bedrooms Bathroom Shower Room Cloakroom Two Terraces EPC Rating D
Guest Flat: Sitting Room Two Bedrooms Bathroom Kitchen EPC Rating E
F R E E H OLD
JS A S av i l l s 020 7730 0822
020-7225 0277
www.russellsimpson.co.uk
P R IC E O N A P P L I C AT I O N
8:78-:<A 8:757<176
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The neo-baroque Villa

Kampffmeyer, surrounded
by parkland, in Potsdam
Berlin was identified last year by the accountancy

company PwC as the best property investment
prospect in Europe. Its annual Emerging
Trends in Real Estate report notes that
buyers are swarming to the German capital,
attracted by relatively inexpensive prices and
a booming tech industry.
This activity has extended to the suburbs too,
in particular the affluent city of Potsdam, which
directly borders Berlin. Potsdam is where, pre
First World War, the Prussian nobility lived, in
ornate palaces surrounded by parkland. In the
1910s and 1920s, bankers as well as movie stars
followed, building mansions in idyllic lakeside
settings. Then, in 1961, with the near-instant
construction of the Berlin Wall, everything
changed, as the city found itself cut off behind
the East German border.
Now Potsdam has come full circle. Once
again it is home to some of Germanys wealthiest
people, who have been lured by the big houses,
the sound of birdsong and a centre that
resembles West Londons Notting Hill, with
the added bonus of being surrounded by five
imperial palaces.
One of the most desirable addresses in
Potsdam is Villa Kampffmeyer, a substantial
neo-baroque property that has recently come on
the market through Savills estate agency. Built
in 1923-1924 for the biggest mill owner in
Germany, Kurt Kampffmeyer, it overlooks a
lake, two castles and the notorious Glienicke

Bridge, also known as the Bridge of Spies,
where captured spies would be exchanged
during the Cold War.
This property stands out for three main
reasons. First, its size: designed to echo the royal
palaces that surround the property, it measures
15,000 square foot, set within two acres of
parkland and an extensive lake frontage.
Second, its history: its architectural grandness
there are baroque, classical and rococo
influences reflects a time of economic
prosperity in keeping with Potsdams imperial
past. The property later found itself on the front
line of the East-West demarcation, with the
Berlin Wall running through the garden. And
third, its location: at the heart of a UNESCO
World Heritage Site, yet a mere 30-minute
drive from central Berlin and its two main
airports a rare thing indeed.
The house has been subject to an extensive
renovation project that has lasted more than 10
years, which has seen the alterations made
during the Russian years painstakingly removed
and the property restored to its original glory.
Now the interior design includes wood panelling,
silk wallpaper and parquet flooring.
It is extremely rare for these ultra-prime
properties to come on to the market in Germany,
as they tend to stay in the same family for
generations, explains Jelena Cvjetkovic,
associate director of international property at

Savills. This home would suit someone who is
after extraordinary entertaining space and
who needs to be close to a city with a thriving
property market.
Villa Kampffmeyer is on the market with Savills. Price on
application. For further details contact Jelena Cvjetkovic
on 020 7016 3754 or jcvjetkovic@savills.com
facebook.com/struttandparker
twitter.com/struttandparker
struttandparker.com
Greater London, Orpington

A private sanctuary tucked away amidst the
London green belt.
Orpington Station 2 miles | London Biggin Hill
Airport 4 miles | M25 (Jct. 4) 5 miles
Central London 15.5 miles
About 111 acres
Lakesview 4 Reception rooms and 5 ensuite
bedrooms | Secondary 6-bedroom house
Beautiful gardens and grounds | 3 Lakes
Swimming pool | Tennis court | Garaging with
1-bedroom at | Stables | Grass paddocks
Private golf course
Country Department
020 3773 2980
will.whittaker@struttandparker.com
South East
020 7318 4668
matthew.sudlow@struttandparker.com
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Hazy Days
SOMETIMES WHEN YOU LOOK AROUND YOU, ITS HARD TO
BELIEVE THAT YOURE IN LONDON; AND WHEN YOU LIVE AT
CARLOW HOUSE, NW1, YOU CAN BE ENJOYING THE SUMMER
GREEN OF PRIMROSE HILL AND THE REGENTS PARK IN MINUTES
YET YOURE LIVING IN THE HEART OF THE BUZZING, BRILLIANT
AND VIBRANT NEIGHBOURHOOD OF CAMDEN, WHERE HAZY,
LAZY DAYS AND NIGHTS ARE SIMPLY PART OF THE FABRIC OF LIFE.
THIS IS YOUR LEGACY, YOUR CAMDEN YOUR HOME.
SUITES AND 1 & 2 BED APARTMENTS

SPECTACULAR FOUR STOREY
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DAYTIME CONCIERGE
WITH BESPOKE INTERIORS BY WORLD
RENOWNED DESIGNER RABIH HAGE
VIEW FROM PRIMROSE HILL
PRICES FROM
699,000
CARLOWHOUSENW1.COM
CARLOW@GALLIARDHOMES.COM
020 3770 2196
81;<-;1,-
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www.abellandcleland.co.uk
Proud to be a member of the Berkeley Group of companies
#OTL
...with GRAYSON PERRY

Perry has spent a lot of time recently
thinking about men specically the dire
state of British masculinity. You may have
seen his recent Channel 4 series, All Man,
and the accompanying book, The Descent
Of Man, arrives in November. GQ enjoyed
or our lunch date, Grayson Perry
it so much that we decided to honour him
isnt Claire. That is to say, today,
with a coveted GQ Men Of The Year Award,
the artist and keen mountain
specically Writer Of The Year. Lucky me,
biker isnt wearing a dress. Hes
chirps Perry of the honour, with genuine
got no make-up on, his ngerpride, using a wedge of toast to mop up
nails are unvarnished and his hair isnt
the soupy, eggy mess pooling before him.
adorned with a large baby-blue bow or
Writing is much harder than art. Theres
fuchsia-pink puffy scrunchy. As he opens
no coasting. Writing is bloody hard work in
the creaky green wooden door to his buncomparison to making a few pots.
galow studio, where hes worked for the
Perrys book is a siren call for men to
past two years it was previously a watchsort themselves out emotionally before
making atelier in a pea-green T-shirt,
we destroy the world around us. Mans
faded dad jeans, a red-and-black annel
unchecked, power-hungry masculinity is
overshirt and kaleidoscopic Nike Flyknit
a terrifying thing. He also feels women
trainers, its not so much that I am surprised
have to stop expecting men to live up to old
as a little disappointed. Its like coming to
male stereotypes. Does this mean I can now
see Father Christmas in midsummer and
legitimately shirk putting up those shelves?
catching him wearing chinos and a wifeIts male oppression, isnt it? Got to resist
beater or seeing your boss in shorts.
it, mate. Tell her, Im not going to be the
The costume might be absent but the
one that protects you. Or provides for you.
artist is well and truly present. Leaving his
Let [women] do it for a change. If women
studio, we walk through the leafy streets
want f***ing equality let them be the proof Barnsbury, Islington, once New Labours
tectors and providers. Thats the deal that
ground zero. En route to our destination,
men have to understand. It feels so alien
WRITER OF THE YEAR
he comments on the current state of the
to us to give up control, but if you want
party. Perry is a supporter and in the past
equality theres a down as well as an up.
has even raised funds for Labour, though he obviously feels that Corbyn
The current state of male vanity comes under particular scrutiny. All
has long overstayed his welcome. [Hes] the pin-up for dreamers with
male aesthetics ride on the back of a function. So a six-pack is a funcno chance of winning an election. Theres something so old-school male
tional thing that workmen would have had because of work. Its like
about his I am right stubbornness. As we stroll, I notice the location of
dressing up in a uniform but its under your skin. Going to the gym is
merely a pantomime of labour. It isnt manly to be seen to be taking it
the 1994 Blair-Brown deal is but a hundred metres from where well be
easy. All those guys cycling to work dressed as Chris Froome in Lycra,
dining. Since then, Granita has become, somewhat tellingly, Desperado,
its like driving a Ferrari in a trafc jam. Pointless. Men suffer for their
a Mexican restaurant. The irony makes the back of your knees itch.
vanity nowadays. Its shameful, really.
Perry eats lunch at Workers Cafe on Upper Street about three times
I go to the till to pay, contemplating whether theres any hope at all
a week. When I moved in, I asked the local workmen to tell me which
left for men in Perrys worldview. Perry is more optimistic: All it takes
was the best greasy spoon they should know, right? We sit at his
favourite table, a wooden two-seater to the right of the door and up
is for men to accept change. Gender is a uid thing, even for lads or as
against the glass. As we talk, we gaze at the caravan of Sancerre-fuelled
I call them The Flowery Shirted Banter Brigade, who are now so frowned
north London mums and Polish builders on a break from excavating the
upon that theyd have trouble getting laid. Men, trust me, if you want
to get laid, become a feminist. Perry and I exit the caf and segue into
areas endless iceberg basements. We order sausage, chips and baked
beans for me, bubble and squeak, fried egg, baked beans and tomatoes
Islingtons bourgeois slipstream drifting back towards his studio. Its
for him. We both have cups of tea and tap water. Unannounced, Perrys
not illegal to have a cock, the artist cackles. Well, not yet.
large oval plate arrives with the addition of chips. Oh, well, he grins.
Workers Cafe, 172 Upper Street, London N1. 020 7226 3973.
Three types of carbo proper man food!
workersislington.co.uk
The potter-turnedpolemicist recasts

theart of manliness at
Islingtons Workers Cafe
VERDICT Strength +++,, Aggression ++++, Control +++,, Bravery ++++, Assertiveness +++++ Bants +++++ Overall +++++
Illustrations Anton Emdin; Zohar Lazar
Trust me, if you want to

getlaid, become a feminist
Conduit Street
j o h nv a r v a t o s . c o m
HOZIER: Singer/Song writer, 2016

GQ UK - October 2016

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The loss of a father cuts unspeakably

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OCTOBER 2016 GQ.CO.UK 17

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Suit, 550. Shirt, 109.

270 Casey Neistat New Media Star

272 Jack Garratt Breakthrough Solo Artist

275 Ricky Gervais Genius

278 John Boyega Vertu Breakthrough Actor

By Robert Johnston. Photographed by Simone Lezzi

294 Bella Hadid Hugo Boss Model

298 Billy Connolly Inspiration

300 Tame Impala Band

303 Claudio Ranieri

By Stuart McGurk. Photographed by Greg Williams

308 Nile Rodgers Icon

311 Amy Schumer Woman Of The Year

312 Richard Caring Entrepreneur

314 David Bowie Editors Special Award

317 Bear Grylls TV Personality

By Stuart McGurk. Photographed by Greg Williams

283 Alessandro Michele Fashion Designer

306 Aidan Turner TV Actor

318 Chris Pine International Man

By Robert Johnston. Photographed by Carlotta Manaigo

By Stuart McGurk. Photographed by Brian Bowen Smith

284 Anthony Joshua Sportsman

320 Calvin Harris Patrn Tequila Solo Artist

By Paul Henderson. Photographed by Hamish Brown

By Dorian Lynskey. Photographed by Gavin Bond

291 Sadiq Khan Politician

348 Grayson Perry Writer

By Charlie Burton. Photographed by Nick Wilson

By Jonathan Heaf. Illustrated by Anton Emdin

OCTOBER 2016 GQ.CO.UK 21

Desert Trip sets the festival

Twenty years on from

The bad and

Nothing you can see that

Is the soul of Sothebys,

See it, click it,

OCTOBER 2016 GQ.CO.UK 23

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Paul Solomons

MANAGING EDITOR Mark Russell

COMMISSIONING EDITOR Charlie Burton

ASSOCIATE ART EDITOR Oliver Jamieson

PHOTOGRAPHIC DIRECTOR Ger Tierney

FASHION DIRECTOR Robert Johnston

FEATURES DIRECTOR Jonathan Heaf

DESIGN ASSISTANT TO THE CREATIVE DIRECTOR Anna Gordon