International Journal of Chemical and

Natural Science
Vol. 3, No. 2 (2015): 249-252
Review Article
Open Access

ISSN: 2347-6672

NATURAL DYES - prospects for entrepreneurship

S. Lokhol Singh1*, R.K. Ramananda Singh2 and Neema Moirangthem3
1

Associate Professor & Head, Dept. of Chemistry, Thoubal College, Thoubal, Manipur.
Part Time Lecturer in Chemistry, Thoubal College, Thoubal.
3
J.R.F. in Thoubal College Biotech Hub.
2

* Corresponding author: S. Lokhol Singh; email: swearmanipur@yahoo.com

Received: 25 January 2015

Accepted: 20 February 2015

Online: 01 March 2015

ABSTRACT

The people in the country have been considered as forerunners in the art of natural dyeing. Further, due to increased
awareness on environment and health hazards associated with synthesis, processing and use of synthetic dyes an
international interest has arisen in natural dyes that comprises of colorants obtained from animal or vegetable
matter without any chemical processing. During the last decade Natural dyes from animal or vegetable matter
gained momentum and find use in the colouring of textiles, drugs, cosmetics, etc. Owing to their nontoxic effects,
natural dyes are also used for colouring various food products. More than 450 plants are available in the country
that can yield dyes. In addition to their dye-yielding characteristics, some of these plants also possess medicinal
value. North eastern region is rich in such natural dye yielding plants and can create entrepreneurship out of this
natures boon.

Keywords: Natural Dyes, Entrepreneurship.

1. INTRODUCTION

Human race has been fascinated by colour. As early as

180,000 B.C. the Neanderthal tribes prepared their
dead bodies for burial by coating with red ochre (Ferric
Oxide).Their successors made cave paintings using
yellow and red iron oxides, black manganese dioxide
and white clay. For tens of thousands of years humans
obtained colouring materials exclusively from salts,
rocks and earth tones until weaving was invented.
1.1 Classification
Natural dyes are classified as 1. Animal Dyes
2. Vegetable Dyes
3. Synthetic Dyes

1.1.1 Animal Dyes

One of the earliest and most important of the Animal
dyes came from several species of snails found in the
Mediterranean extracted by crushing the shellfish and
boiling in salt water for ten days.
Tyrian purple, discovered by the Phoenicians in about
1500 B.C. was one of the most important dye of the
civilizations.
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Cloth was dipped in the solution, then exposed

to sunlight; yellow colour changed to greenish
blue then to purple.
The Roman Emperors prized the dye and
decreed that only members of the royal family
could wear clothings coloured by it and hence
the expression born to the purple.
Among those who wore Tyrian purple were
Alexander the Great, Julius Caesar and
Cleopatra.
Other animal dyes were kermes obtained from
the insect Coccus ilicis a tree scale that lived
on oak.
Another dye very similar to kermes discovered
by the Mexican dyers at around 1000 B.C. was
Cochineal derived from another scale insect
Dactylopius coccus that lived on cactus.

1.1.2 Vegetable Dyes

Vegetable dyes are found in almost any plant.
Three of the most important were :
Madder (Rubia tinctorium), a bright
red dye;
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Woad, a blue dye from the European

plant Isatis tinctoria;
Indigo from the plant Indigofera
tinctoria

1.1.3 Synthetic dyes

The synthetic dye industry began with a
serendipitous discovery.
In 1856, William Perkin, an 18 year old student
of the Royal College of Chemistry, London was
trying to synthesize Quinine by reacting
Aniline sulphate with Potassium dichromate
thereby obtained a black paste which when
extracted with alcohol gave a violet residue
that dissolved in water to give a brilliant
purple colour.
Initially, the British were the leaders in factory
produced dyes but the Germans soon
dominated the field obtaining 950 patents
between 1880 and 1900.
Today more than 6000 synthetic dyes are
available and most are cheaper and more
effective than the dyes found in nature.

Only after 1856 the development of synthetic

dyes came into existence and still dominates
the entire dyestuff industry.
These synthetic dyes have received faster
acceptability due to its ease in dyeing
reproducibility and cost factors.

1.2 Development of Natural Dyes

However, in late 1994, Germany struck a
severe blow to dyestuff industries and
subsequently other European countries also
executed ban on import of textiles and
garments coloured with a series of azo dyes
made from aromatic compounds which are
carcinogenic,
allergic,
poisonous
and
detrimental to human health.
With the present national and international
awareness on environmental ecology and
pollution controls, natural dyes appear to be
the ideal choice since they are chosen from non
toxic lot and can be handled very easily and
safely.

1.3 Differences between Chemical Dyes and Natural Dyes

Chemical Dyes
With exposure to light all colour fades
Chemical colours are easy to use and can
produce good results, but have certain
drawbacks, in that they can look hard or
garish; some fade very quickly and others
fade unevenly leaving blotches.
Chemical dyes are pure; for example, a
chemical red dye will only contain red
pigment.
Evenness of a synthetically dyed carpet is
flat and uninteresting.

Natural Dyes
Natural dyes fade or mellow leaving lighter
tones that are just as beautiful, if not more
so, than the original colour.
Natural dyes are more compatible and
harmonious with one another.
Natural dyes are not pure; for example, a
natural red will include blue and yellow.
The impurities of natural dyes, which may
comprise 5 to 25 percent of the dye,
consist of other hues that are similar to the
main one, and it is these mixtures that
make natural dyes beautiful and create
their harmony with neighbouring natural
colours.
Natural dye, precisely because of its
unevenness, makes colour vibrate or
sparkle. And for some people, this
imperfection, a sign of the artists hand
working natural substances from the
garden or fields, has spiritual overtones.

1.4 Some more about Natural dyes

Natural dyes make different shades at different
time of the day. When exposed to light they
leave lighter tones which makes them to look
beautiful in a different way than their original
colours.
Natural dye enthusiasts see mellow hues
that sparkle and glow which give esthetically
comfortable feeling. But to be able to see these
features one needs, perhaps, a passion for
colour.
Natural dyes are substantially less destructive
to the environment than the chemical dyes .

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Synthetic dyes used in textile dyeing generally

cause environmental pollution and health
problems in humans.
Each plant provides an amazing diversity of
shades. From one plant, one may obtain 5-15
varying colours and shades. These colours and
shades are subtle and tend to harmonize with
one another. The resulting fabrics are now
original pieces and it is extremely difficult for
anyone to duplicate exactly, even the dyer.
Natural colour is inherently more muted than
chemical colour, which looks very stark, and so
if chemical colours are used while the desired
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effect is for the natural look, it will be

necessary to mix a variety of colours in
imitation of nature.
Colour created from natural elements lasts
much longer than that created from chemical
dyes.

1.5 Why interest on Natural Dyes

From the above facts, a detailed investigation
including elucidation of chemical composition
1.7 Some Dye Plants of Manipur

Name
Bixa orellana Linn (Ureirom)
Carthamus tinctorius (Kusumlei)
Clerodendrum odoratum (Kuthap)
Curcuma domestica Valeton syn. (Yaingang)
Emblica officinalis Gaertn(Heikru)
Pasania pachyphylla Kurz (Kuhi)
Strobilanthes cusia (Nees)Imlay syn (Kumna)

2. Extraction Methods
The extraction of natural dye basically depends on
medium in which the dye is extracted. Mainly, there are
four methods used in the extraction of natural dyes.

Aqueous Method:
Known amount of the dye stuff is boiled in water at
1000 c, filtered the dye solution and optical density is
recorded.

Alkaline method:
1 % solution of Sodium Carbonate/Sodium hydroxide is
prepared. Dye material is entered and heated at 1000c.
Filtered and optical density is recorded.

Acid method:
1 % acid solution is prepared with HCl in water. Dye
material is entered and heated at 1000c. Filtered and
optical density is recorded.

Alcohol method:
50 % Alcohol Solution is prepared. Dye material is
added and boiled. Dye solution is filtered
2.1 Requirements for Natural Dyeing
To make a good dye, it is not enough for a compound to
be colourful. It must also be soluble in water so that its

of the natural dyes available in the plants of

Manipur has become important
1.6 Gaps identified in the Field
Identification of natural dye yielding plants of
Manipur have been conducted by Botanists in
different institutions of the state.
Identification of chemical composition of the
different colourants obtained from these plants
are, however, done by a few for a few plants.
Colour

Reddish
Pink dye
Light green
Yellowish
Dark colour
Dark brown
Kum machu

solution can penetrate the fabric. Once in the fibers, it

must become insoluble, ort attach tightly to the fibers
so that it does not wash out.These requirements led
natural dyers to use Mordants and Vat Dyeing

2.1.1 Mordant
A mordant is a coupling agent, usually a metal ion. It
must be soluble in water so that its solution can
penetrate into the fabric. It attaches to both the dye and
fiber and forms a link between them otherwise come
off in the wash. Some effective mordants are
Potassium
Alluminium
Sulphate
Kal(SO4)2 Alum
K2 Cr2 O7 Chrome Mordant
FeSO4 Iron Mordant
CuSO4 Copper Mordant
SnCl2 Tin Mordant
2.1.2 Vat Dyeing
Because Indigo is insoluble in water, a multistep, Vat
dyeing is applied. Insoluble indigo is reduced by
Sodium hydrosulfite and make soluble. Cloth is soaked
in this pale yellow solution then skyed by hanging in
the air whereby oxygen in the air oxidises indigo back
to the brilliant blue form which is insoluble and difficult
to dislodge from the fibers.

2.2 Marigold dye with different mordants

With Ferrous sulphate mordant

With Alum mordant

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With Tin mordant

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3. Natural dyes in the North Eastern Region

Natural dyes are used in some places of Manipur, Nagaland, Meghalaya and Arunachal Pradesh. Kum (Strobilanthes
flaccidifolius) dyeing is in practice in Manipur, Nagaland and a few parts of the NE Hill region.
3.1 Units using natural dyes in the NE Region
Sl.

Place

Total No. of
Units

% of units
using natural
dye

No. of units
using
natural
dye

Estimated
production
MT/day

Annual
production
in Lac MT

Assam

350

15%

52

2600

7.80

Manipur

300

25%

75

3750

11.25

2
4.

Meghalaya
Arunachal
Pradesh

250
150

3.2 Natural Dye consumption state-wise

7.
8.
9.

10.

1100

3.30

Andhra Pradesh

52.50

Requirement
raw material
Tonnes
2620

Assam

600

18.00

105.00

5250

3.

6.

22

7.50

Qnty. Of dye
used Tonnes

5.

15%

2500

Expected length
of cloths dyed
m/yr
10.50

State

4.

50

No.
of
artisans
engaged
350

Sl

2.

20%

Orissa

Arunachal Pradesh
Manipur

Meghalaya
Rajasthan

Karnataka

Himachal Pradesh
Uttaranchal
TOTAL

550
400
300
300

1000
400
250
150

4300

16.50
12.00

75.00

9.00

45.00

9.00

45.00

30.00

150.00

12.00

60.00

7.50
4.50

37.50

127.00

4. Marketing Aspects
Following are the reasons for a good marketing
aspects of Natural dye
From natural sources vegetables,
animals and minerals
Eco friendly
Hygienic and skin friendly
Least environmental problems in
manufacturing and application
5. Applications
Textile industry (coloration of fabrics and
yarns)
Food Industry (sweets, confectioneries, bakery
items)
Leather
industry
(coloration
of
footwears/garments)
Cosmetics industry (soaps, creams, powders,
lotions, lipstics, etc.

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82.50

22.50

675.00

of

4120
3750
2250
2250
7500
3000

1870
1120

33730

6. Limitations of Natural Dyeing

Tedious extraction of coloring pigments from
the raw materials with low coloring pigments;
e.g. to get 14 gms. of dye 1200 mollusks are
required.
Limited number of suitable dyes, allow only
dyeing wool, linen, natural silk and cotton.
Inadequate fastness properties as compared to
synthetic dyes.
Great difficulty in blending.
Non standardized method.

7. NEED for Natural Dye Development

To develop method to improve colour yield of
natural dyes while using environment friendly
extraction techniques without extensive
application of organic solvents.
To improve fastness properties of natural dyes.
To develop natural dyeing technologies that is
applicable for industrial as well as domestic
levels.
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8. Chemical structures of some important natural dye colorants:

Structure of Indigo dye

Synthesis of Indigo dye in plants

Coloring compound present in Henna Lawsone,

2-Hydroxy-1,4-Naphthquinone

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Coloring material in Turmeric

Curcumin

9. Sources of different colours from some plants:

Colour
Red Dyes

Botanical Name

Parts used

Mordant

Safflower
Caesalpina*
Maddar
Lac

Carthamus
tinctorious
Caesalpinia
sappan
Rubia
tinctorium
Coccus lacca (insect

Flower
Wood chips
Wood
Twigs inhibited by these
insects

Flower
Wood chips
Wood
Twigs inhibited
these insects

Leaves
Leaves
Seed pods
Mature berries after frost
Rhizomes

Alum & Iron

Iron & Acid

Yellow Dyes
Bougainvillea*
Golden
rod
Teak
Marigold
Parijata
Blue Dyes
Indigo
Woad
Suntberry Pivet
Water lily
Black Dyes
Lac*

Alder
Rofblamala
Custard apple
Hard
Brown Dyes
Caesalpina*
Bougainvillea*
Balsam*
Marigold Black
berries
Green Dyes
Tulsi*
Bougainvillea*
Lily
Nettles
Orange dye
Bougainvillea*
Balsam*
Dahlia
Annatto

Bougainvillea*
Golden rod
Teak
Marigold
Parijata
Indigofera tinctoria
Isatis tinctoria
Acacia nilotica
Ligustrum vulgare
Nymphaea alba
Coccus lacca (insect)
Alnus glutinosa
Loranthus pentapetalus
Anona reticulata
Terminalia chebula
Caesalpinia sappan Bougainvillea
glabra
Impatiens balsamina Tagetes
species
Rubus fructicosus
Ocimum sanctum
Bougainvillea glabra
Convallaria majalis
Urtica diocia
Bougainvillea glabra
Impatiens balsamina
Dahlia specie
Bixa orellana

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Flower
Flower
Flower
Flower
Flower

Twig inhibited by
Insect
Bark
Leaves
Fruit
Fruit
Wood chips
Flower
Flower
Flower
Berries

Leaves
Flower
Leaves & Stalk
Leaves
Flower
Flower
Flower
Seeds

by

Flower
Flower
Flower
Flower
Flower

Ferrous sulphate
Ferrous sulphate
Alum
Chrome
Iron
Ferrous sulphate
Ferrous sulphate
Alum
Chrome
Iron
Ferrous sulphate
Alum
Ferrous sulphate
Alum
Tin/Alum
Tin
Alum/Chrome
-

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10. CONCLUSION

The commercial importance of natural dye has been

widely recognized during the recent past. In India,
various types of climate and soils are available, hence
natural dye plants and herbs can be grown naturally all
over the country. Though the value of raw materials
may be less, but processed products can be sold with
higher rates which may be done even on small scale
industry.

12. REFERENCES

Natural dye plants and dyes produced by these plants

have a very good demand in the national and
international markets now a days and use of such
plants/herbs for dyeing our cloths is as old as our
history. Importance of Natural dyeing industry may be
studied as they are fairly non-polluting except the toxic
chrome mordant, automatically harmonizing and rare
colour ideas (subtle colours that one might not
normally think of.).

11. Acknowledgements

The authors thank the Department of Biotechnology (DBT),

Government of India, New Delhi, for funding; Principal,
Thoubal College for providing laboratory and equipments
and teaching and non-teaching staffs of the Chemistry
Department, Thoubal College, Thoubal for their maximum
assistance and co-operation.

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