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eat in7eat out7eat away

TRIPLETESTEDS
RECIPE

+
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JULY 2013
C 100

India

clever comfort food


7Lotus-stem pakodas
7Spinach rarebits
7Harissa lamb stew
7Achari meatballs
7Cherry trifle

pudding

French fries
reinvented
Cooking with
Indian berries
READER OFFER!
20% off on

4
Royal cherry trie p 15

Preeta Mathurs new


book The Courtly Cuisine

MAGZTER
COPY

(T&C apply - see p 99)

EAT OUT

Breakfasts
on trial

Chez Ninis
signature
Poutine

EAT AWAY
Eat like a
Vietnamese

Street Food
Congress,
Singapore

MASTERCLASS
ERCLASS

Diego Palladino's
alladino's
Club 9 pizza
izza p 144
144
14
FREE!
AUGMENTED
REALITY
VIDEO
FOR
INSTRUCTIONS
ON HOW TO VIEW,
TURN TO P 20

Modern comforts
Pakodass and chai is a match made in monsoon heaven. Likewise,
P
whats more reassuring than a bowl of gooey pasta when its
w
pouring, right? The magic of the rains is incomplete without such
p
ffeel-good favourites.
The beauty of these beloved classics is that they never fail to
please. But we think tweaking the tried-and-true is exciting
too. Sometimes, a single ingredient change can feel like a
total makeover. This month we take comfort fare to new,
mouthwatering heights. From bhee (lotus stem)pakodass to
poutine, from cake pops to cherry trie, weve got wickedly
clever dishes that hit all the right spots.
Chips with chops Its true. Anything plus French fries guarantees a
Chip

ADDICTED TO
FRENCH FRIES?
We show you how
to get your fix.
P 84
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meal polished clean. Countless recipes the world over are devoted to this fast food icon, an

SWEET COMFORT
This upside-down
cherry torte is
unapologetically
rich. Mmm. P 108

indicator of our collective spud obsession. Fried, baked, spicy, cheesy, we bring you seven
knockout spins on the fry, even daring to take it beyond potatoes. I love the Skinny Carrot

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Photograph GARETH MORGANS

Fries livened up with tarragon, so tasty (and forgiving).


Berries and drupes This month we show a bit of love to jamun and
d shehtoot,
luxuriant in their abundance right now. I know you might be a bit nervous about
cooking with these local berries but Assistant Food Editor Kainaz Contractors rocksolid recipes show you how to get the best out of them. We also celebrate cherries
with some ultra-dreamy desserts. A spoonful of silky Double Cherry Semifreddo will

spirit to desserts. Make the most

of them with our showstoppers

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Great balls of meat Fried for a Danish frikadeller, tucked as a kofta


a in a roti wrap or
steamed for a classic Cantonese dim sum, let us count the ways we love meatballs.

So what distinguishes this comfort food across various cuisines? Nuances of texture and
avour. We bring you six zippy takes on this rustic dish loved the world over. Oozing with
juice and loaded with avour, these hearty winners will satisfy all your meaty cravings.

THE ADORED
I never met a
cake pop I didnt
like. P 25

Kayastha food Preeta Mathurs unique home-style Kayastha recipes lovingly documented
in The Courtly Cuisine: Kayastha Kitchens through India will take you on an exotic culinary
journey. Our eight exclusive recipes from the newly released book prove that good things
(like the skill-intensive Riconch from Uttar Pradesh) come to those who are patient. Good
rst bite
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news, trends, shoppin

first bite
We x cake pops

After all, what could be


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POT LUCK
Find time to make
this fall off-the-bone
tender chicken. Its a
snap to master. P 100

tha cake on lollipop


ous than
scrumptious

, Proprietor, Yogurtbay
CHA
i ROBIN CHATTERJEE
Recipe

Food
d readers get a 20 per cent off the cover price of this fascinating book. Grab it!

sticks?

Photographs RITAM BANERJEE

I hope this issue hooks you. As always, our recipes draw inspiration from around the world
and encourage you to explore new cuisines, cooking methods and ingredients.

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Badi bauwa ki handia


(recipe on p 100)
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Make a splash this rainy season. Happy monsoon.


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2 BBC GoodFood

Sona Bahadur, editor


JULY 2013

Chief Executive Officer


Editor

Tarun Rai
Sona Bahadur

Features Editor
Senior Features Writer

Vidya Balachander
Priyanka Hosangadi

Associate Food Editor


Assistant Food Editor
Consulting Editor

Amit Pamnani
Kainaz Contractor
Camellia Panjabi

Assistant Art Director


Senior Graphic Designer
Trainee Writer
Trainee Stylist
Editorial Coordinator
Brand Publisher
Marketing Manager
Senior Brand Manager (Events & IPs)
Brand Manager (Digital)
Assistant Brand Manager (Magazines)
Assistant Brand Manager (Alliances)
Assistant Marketing Administration Manager
Chief Financial Officer
Publisher, Print and Production Controller

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MAKE
OUR
COVER
RECIPE!

Contents

154
Royal cherry trie
Serves 8 Q1 hour 5 minutes +
chilling Q EASY
cherries 450g, reserve a few
for the top and stone the rest
cherry jam 340g (try Hero
available at gourmet stores)
Madeira orr sponge cake 450g,
cut into 1cm-thick slices
Kirsch orr brandy 100ml
(available at premium liquor
stores)
amaretti biscuits 5, broken
double cream 300ml, whipped
lightly
THE CUSTARD
caster sugar 50g
cornflour 50g
vanilla extract 1 tsp
eggs 2 large + 1 egg yolk
milk 300ml
double cream 300ml
QFirst, make the custard
by tipping the caster sugar,
cornour and vanilla into a
mixing bowl. Add the eggs
and egg yolk. Whisk with a
hand whisk until smooth and
blended.
QPour the milk and double
cream into a pan and heat
gently until hot, but do not
boil. Pour this over the egg
mixture and immediately whisk
until blended. Wash the pan
to remove any scum from the
milk and pour the custard back
into the clean pan. Heat gently,
4 BBC GoodFood

stirring constantly until thickened.


Dont panic if the custard starts to
look lumpy as it thickens, just continue
to heat and whisk until the custard
is thick and smooth. Pour into a jug
and cover the surface of the custard
with cling-lm to prevent a skin from
forming. Set aside to cool.
QTip the stoned cherries into a pan
with half the jam or conserve and
cook over a medium heat for 5-10
minutes until softened and saucy.
Remove from the heat and leave to
cool slightly.
QSpread half the slices of the Madeira
cake generously with the remaining
cherry jam. Sandwich with the
remaining cake slices, then cut in half.
QPour the Kirsch or brandy into
a shallow bowl, dip each sponge
sandwich into the liqueur, then
arrange in the base of the trie dish
(you will need a shallow, straightsided, 20cm round glass dish about
5cm deep). Line the edges of the dish
rst to create a stripey effect, then
ll in the centre with the remaining
sandwiches, pouring over any
remaining liquid.
QSpoon over the cherries and any
juice from the pan, then scatter over
the broken biscuits. Pour over the
cooled custard, then spread whipped
cream over the top. Decorate with
fresh whole cherries and chill for a few
hours, or make it a day ahead and chill
for up to 24 hours before serving.
Q PER SERVING 886 kcals, protein
10g, carbs 94g, fat 50g, sat fat 29g,
fibre 1g, sugar 75g, salt 0.9g

90

118

eat in

eat out

Inspiring, seasonal recipes that


work every time

Restaurants on trial and cafs


with character

58 7 MEALS FOR ` 700

118 RESTAURANT SPY

A weeks worth of stylish


meals

66 LUNCHBOX
Snappy lunchbox ideas

68 READY IN 30
Quick recipes ready in a
jiffy

75 IN SEASON
Cooking with jamun and
shehtoot

Breakfasts on trial

126 PRO VS PUNTER


The Flying Elephant,
Chennai

128 OFF THE EATEN


TRACK
The National Lodge,
Chennai

132 SIGNATURE DISH


Chez Ninis Poutine

84 MODERN VEGGIE
French fries with a twist

90 WEEKEND
Meatballs from around
the world

98 ENTERTAINING
Try a Kayastha meal at
home

106 SHOW OFF


Sophisticated cherry
desserts

150 SUBSCRIBE to
Good Food India

MAGZTER COPY
PRO vss PUNTER
Feel like the average diner
doesnt always agree with
professional reviews?
Become our punter in the
Pro vs Punter section
and review a restaurant
along with a seasoned pro.
To apply, write to us at
bbcgoodfood@wwm.co.in.

JULY 2013

July 2013
38 FOOD ISSUE
BBC Good Food
investigates palm oil

42 BOOKS AND COOKS


Julys must-read food
tomes

masterclass
143 COOK LIKE A PRO
Sharpen your chopping
skills with a mezzaluna

134
eat away
Foodie holiday ideas and
recipes from around the world

144 MASTERCLASS
Diego Palladinos stepby-step Club 9 pizza

148 DO IT YOURSELF
Dress up your brekkies
with jamun jam

70

Smoked salmon and asparagus fettuccine

149 WINE GUIDE


134 EAT LIKE A LOCAL:
VIETNAM
Authentic avours from the
former French colony

140 POSTCARD FROM


SINGAPORE

Robust and full-bodied


Tuscan reds

154 SHOWSTOPPER
Decadent Royal cherry
trie

Out & about


JUST A FEW GOOD PLACES TO EAT FEATURED THIS MONTH

Karen Anand visits the


World Street Food Congress
Delhi

rst bite

Q Q

25 FIRST BITE
Cake pops are the dessert
du jour

28 NEWS, TRENDS AND


SHOPPING
New restaurants, trends we
like and more

34 ON TEST
Frozen chicken nuggets
and potato mashers

36 BARGAIN HUNTER
Best value foodie events,
meals and deals
JULY 2013

10 OVER TO YOU
Reader recipes, comments
and letters

Singapore

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Mumbai
Bengaluru
Chennai

THE BBC GOODFOOD LEGACY


7BBC GoodFood is the UKs largest selling food magazine with
a readership of over 1.1 million.
7bbcgoodfood.com is the UKs most popular recipe site
attracting 3.7 million unique users per month.
7The hugely successful iPhone & iPad apps have had over
70,000 downloads till date.

BBC GoodFood 5

Over to you
For top restaurant, recipe and travel tips, we ask you,
our readers, to keep us on the pulse

Write to us!
We love hearing from you. Email us your feedback,
your favourite recipes and your comments at
bbcgoodfood@wwm.co.in. Lets be in touch!

GOOD
FOOD
STAR
RECIPE
Chuki sabut mattar
(tender and spiced pea
pods)
Serves 8-10 Q30 minutes Q EASY
Make sure you select tender and young
green peas. The full pod is cooked with
tangy masala. While eating, the whole
pod is put in the mouth, holding one
end of the pod with the fingers. It is
clenched between the front teeth, then
pulled out, leaving the peas and the
tender pod skin in the mouth.

REALLY

REALLY
ghee 2 tbsp
EASY
asafoetida (hing) a big pinch
cumin seeds 1/2 tsp
young pea pods 1kg, washed and
drained
6 BBC GoodFood

salt to taste
garam masala powder 1 1/2 tsp
red chilli powder 1 tsp
dried mango powder (amchoor)
3-4 tsp
QHeat the ghee in a wok; add the
asafoetida and cumin seeds. When the
seeds start crackling, add the whole
pea pods.
QSprinkle salt, garam masala and
red chilli powder. Reduce the heat
and cook. Sprinkle water, if required.
When the peas are tender, sprinkle the
mango powder and mix well. Serve hot.
Q PER SERVING 137.88 kcals, protein
7.01g, carbs 18.58g, fat 4.33g, sat fat
2.24g, fibre 6.49g, salt 1g

Good Food reader Iti Mittal dishes on her


favourite eateries in Ghaziabad
7BREAKFAST Udupi Krishna (+0120
4376813) at Navyug Market is perfect
for a wholesome breakfast. The fuss-free
vegetarian eatery serves a superlative rawa onion dosa
prepared with pure ghee. Do not forget to ask for extra
rasam on the side. Meal for two, ` 400.
7LUNCH Head to the multi-cuisine restaurant, Cinch (+91
8527000224) at Raj Nagar for Mediterranean, Chinese or
North Indian fare. The dal makhani is to die for, mopped
up with mirchi lachha paratha. Skip the
Indianised Chinese and opt for the hearty
Moroccan Pot Roast Chicken instead. They
also offer vegetarian and non-vegetarian
mezze platters. Meal for two, ` 800.
Madan Sweets and Food Point (+0120
2719314) is a must visit for a post-lunch
sweet treat. Try the raj bhog (` 30 for
two pieces) and warm jalebis (` 12 for 100
grams). Dont miss out on the seasonal
moong dal halwa during the winter months.
7DINNER Visit Raja Dhaba, (+0120
2322794) a tiny, no-frills eatery for
authentic Punjabi and Mughlai fare. Sample the juicy kaju
chicken with missi rotis right off the tawa. The anda paratha
is a must-have. Meal for two, ` 350.

HOW YOU PIMPED IT


This recipe is perfect for a quick weekday
dinner. I substituted pea pods with frozen
peas since they werent in season and boiled
them till soft before cooking. The amchoor
gives this dish a lovely tangy punch. The dish
is extremely simple to make but packed with
delicate avours and can be served with roti or eaten by itself
as a snack. Priyanka Gothi is a digital marketing professional
with a leading food company who loves cooking and food
photography. She lives in Gurgaon.

JOIN OUR TASTE TEAM


Our Taste Team comprises readers and home cooks
who try our recipes and give us feedback on what
they liked and what they would do differently. Write
to us at bbcgoodfood@wwm.co.in to join us.
JULY 2013

Photograph MAYANK SONI

FOOD NATIONGhaziabad

over to you
readers write

Pa
ako
koda
da
as

Pizz
Pi
zza
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a

INSIDERS
POLL

17.65% 20.58%
Fren
Fr
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Bhutta

Whats your
favourite
comfort snack
on a rainy day?

LETTER
OF THE
MONTH
A yeaar ago, for
f me, BBC
BC Go
GGood
ood FFood
od
oo
Dear Editor,

was a magazine
i th
that
h contained
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fabulous recipes, reminiscent of restaurantstyle dishes. Since most of the ingredients were

READER RECIPE OF THE MONTH


Good Food
d reader
Mugdha Goud is
a Mumbai-based
management consultant
who enjoys cooking. She
shares the recipe for
Melon trifle with us.

not available easily in the small town where I

Melon trie

live, the issues had to be filed away for future

Serves 4 Q20 minutes + refrigeration


Q EASY

use. But of late, the recipes for flavoured butter,


flowery sherbets, delicious ice creams and quark
cheese have kept me happily busy in the kitchen.
Each and every recipe has ingredients that are
locally available, yet has an interesting twist to it.
Thank you for showing us the way to use our local
produce in several imaginative ways.
- Alka Bhayana, Hisar, Haryana
The winner of the letter of the month for this
issue wins a special festive hamper worth ` 5,000
from Foodhall. The hamper is filled with tempting
goodies like Kalamata olives, extra virgin olive
oil, penne rigate, basil crackers, chocolate
fondue, Lemnos jalapeno cream cheese
and Jamie Olivers chilli salt.
To write in to the
magazine, email us
at bbcgo
g odfood@
wwm.
m co
co.in and
include yo
your
address
s an
and
telephone
number.

JULY 2013

Spoon a layer of cut fruit in the glasses,


followed by a layer of cream. Top with
another layer of fruit and chill.
QFor the topping, mix 30g polenta,
25g almonds, 30g sugar, 1/4 tsp
cinnamon powderr and 35g butter
in a mixer until crumbly. Spread the
mixture on a baking tray and bake at
180C for 10 minutes. Cool. Add 2 tbsp
of the crisp topping on each trie just
before serving.

QCut 2 small
muskmelons and 1/2 a
watermelon into small
cubes and preserve the
juice. Add 2 tsp sugar
to the fruit and chill.
Use pieces of half a
muskmelon and grind into
a pure along with the
excess juices. Add 1 tsp
lemon juice and 2 tsp
sugar.
QWhip 150ml cream till it
holds soft peaks and fold
in the muskmelon puree.

The winner of the Reader Recipe of the Month wins a special


gift hamper worth ` 2,000 from Dalmia Continental Pvt Ltd
(DCPL), a leading company of premium wellness foods.
The hamper contains an array of products from DCPLs
Leonardo brand, such as extra virgin olive oil, olive
pomace oil, whole wheat pasta, premium pasta, premium
pickle in olive oil, pimento stuffed olives, black sliced
olives and two recipe booklets.
Interact with other Good Food readers on Facebook
at facebook.com/GoodFood MagazineIndia or follow
us on Twitter at twitter.com/goodfoodmagin.
BBC GoodFood 7

In this issue
TRACEY LISTER


DIEGO PALLADINO

After spending more than 20 years as a chef in Melbourne,


Australian cookery book author Tracey Lister took a sabbatical
in Hanoi along with her husband Andreas Pohl. Based in
the Vietnamese capital, she runs the successful Hanoi
Cooking Centre, which offers cooking classes and courses in
Vietnamese cuisine. Lister and her husband and co-author
published their rst book KOTO A Culinary Journey through
Vietnam in 2008, followed by Vietnamese Street Food
d in 2011.
Tracey takes you on a culinary tour of Vietnam with a menu of
authentic recipes in Eat like a Local on p 134.


NIRA SINGH

Chef Diego Palladino is the


International Brand Owner of the
UK-based Pizza Metro Pizza chain.
He set up its rst Indian outpost in
Mumbai in 2012. After working with
establishments like The Ritz in London
and Lido in Paris, he acquired Pizza
Metro Pizza in 2003. The trattoria has
since won the UK PAPA (The Pizza
Pasta & Italian Food Association) award
and Hardens award for best pizza in
London. He teaches you how to make
the chains popular Club 9 pizza from
scratch in Masterclass on p 144.

Nira Singh is the proprietor and chef


of Chez Nini in Delhi, a restaurant that
bears her childhood nickname and
specialises in French-Canadian cuisine.
Born and brought up in Montreal,
Singh considers growing up in the city
a culinary and cultural privilege. She
trained to become a professional chef
at the ITHQ (Institute of Hotel and
Tourism of Quebec) and completed
her training at several restaurants
in Montreal. Singh shares the recipe
for Chez Ninis signature Poutine in
Signature Dish on p 132.

ASHWIN RAJAGOPALAN

PREETA MATHUR

hwin Rajagopalan is a Chennai-based freelance writer


d blogger with a passion for travel and food. His writings
ve appeared in GQ India and other publications. By his own
scription, he goes the extra mile to discover a new culinary
perience but is equally fascinated by traditional cuisine and
dacious reinterpretations of classic dishes. Rajagopalan
gives Chennais unassuming but excellent National Lodge
the status it deserves in Off the Eaten Track on p 128.

Preeta Mathur is a Noida-based food columnist whose rece


book is The Courtly Cuisine: Kayastha Kitchens Through Ind
Mathur, who belongs to the Kayastha community, pays trib
to her culinary legacy in this book that brings together
Kayastha dishes from across India. Uncover the earthy
avours of her distinctive recipes in Entertaining, on p 98.
8 BBC GoodFood

JULY 2013

Get to know us
Our five easy-to-navigate sections enable you to find exactly what you are looking for.
Heres what you can expect to see in every issue of Good Food India:
rst bite
news, trends, shopping

rst bite
itt
news,, trends, shopping

pop stars

first bite
We x cak
ake
e pops

7First Bite

Want to
o indulge, yet practice
practice porrttion control? The
These
bite-sized
ze cakelets are
are perfect!

After all, what could be more ado


Afte
orable
able a
and scrumptiou
scrumptious than
tha cake on lollipop sticks?

Cake pops
Makes 30 Q50 minutes + baking +
cooling QEASY

Recipe ROBIN
OBIN CHATTERJEE,
CHAT
Proprietor, Yogurtbay Photographs RITAM BANERJEE

brown sugar 165g (try Mawana


available at gourmet stores)
unsalted butter 225g
eggs 2
self-raising flour 150g (try Bluebird
available at gourmet stores)
cocoa powder 30g
dark cooking chocolate 200g,
chopped (try Morde available at
gourmet stores)
dark compound chocolate
375g, chopped, for melting (try
Callebaut available at gourmet
stores)
vegetable oil 1 1/2 tsp
white compound chocolate
120g, chopped, for melting
(try Callebaut available at
gourmet stores)
chocolate chips and
chocolate sprinkles to
decorate
bamboo skewers
30 small
Styrofoam block 1

SWEET TALKERS
Incredibly
ncredibly
ibly
y easy to make,, these
th
hese
petite creation
creatio
onss are
a e a cross
be
between
a mini
ni cake
ake
ke
e and
an a
lollipop.
ollipop.
pop.
p. T
The chocolate
ocolat
colate
e shel
shell
s
frosting
g gives
giv
giv way
y to
o moist,
moist
st
crumbly goodness
goodness ass you
y bite
bi
in. Impart
m
finishing
hing
ng touches
ess by
decorating
ing them with sprinkle
sprinkles
es,
cchocolate chips
c
, fondant,
ant
ant,
flavoured
voured icing or candy. Wer
Were
e
eyeing the dark chocolate
ocolat
cake pops from
fr
Kishi A
Aroras
Foodaholics in Delhi, along
with Mumbai-based
Mumbai-based Not Just
unusual peanutt butte
Desserts unusual
er
cake
ake pops. They make for
or th
the
cutest
utest little treats
treats at picn
picnics, baby
showers or birt
birthday
hday parties.
Whats not to love?
love?

QPreheat the oven to 180C.


Grease and line the base and sides
of a 20cm round cake tin with
butter paper. Line a large oven tray
with butter paper too.
QUsing an electric mixer beat the
sugar and 125g butter in a bowl until
pale and creamy. Slowly add the eggs,
beating well between each addition.
Sift the our and cocoa powder over
the butter mixture, and stir to combine.
Spoon into the prepared pan and
smoothen the surface. Bake for 35-40
minutes or until a skewer inserted into
the centre of the cake comes out clean.
Turn onto a wire rack to cool completely.
QMeanwhile, combine 200g dark
cooking chocolate and the remaining
butter in a medium bowl over a
saucepan of simmering water (do not
let the water touch the base of the
bowl). Stir the mixture occasionally with
a metal spoon, for 5 minutes or until
smooth and glossy. Remove from heat,
and set aside for 30 minutes, or until
slightly thickened and cooled.
QBreak the cake into pieces and place
them into the bowl of a food processor.
Process until the mixture resembles ne
breadcrumbs. Place in a large bowl and
add the chocolate mixture. Stir until well
combined.
QRoll tablespoons of the cake mixture
into balls and place on the lined tray.
Refrigerate for 3 hours or until rm.
QPlace the other 375g dark compound
chocolate in a bowl over a pan of
simmering water and stir with a spoon
so that it melts. Add vegetable oil and
stir to combine.
QDip the end of one skewer in the
chocolate then insert into a ball. Return
to the tray. Repeat with the remaining
balls, and rest for 5 minutes or until set.
QDip a cake ball into melted chocolate,
turning to coat, and tap gently on

TIPS
QThe cake
pops should
ideally be dipped
in compound
chocolate
rather than pure
chocolate, since
the former doesnt
need tempering
and will not melt at
room temperature.
QIf you are pressed
for time, you can
use Pillsburys
Funfetti Cake Pop
Mix, available on
zansaar.com.
(Sprinkles and
other decorating
material is
available at Arife
Stores in Mumbai,
or on websites like
gourmetco.in and
bakersmart.co.in)

the side of the bowl to remove


excess. Insert the skewer in the
Styrofoam to set. Repeat with
remaining balls and chocolate. Set
aside for 30 minutes to set.
QTo make pops with a white chocolate
coating, place the white compound
chocolate in a bowl over a pan of
simmering water and stir with a spoon
so that it melts. Remove from heat and
set aside for 5 minutes to cool slightly.
QSpoon a little melted chocolate
over the top of each cake pop. Top
with some white chocolate. Decorate
with chocolate chips and chocolate
sprinkles. Return to Styrofoam to set
completely.

Our opening section is the perfect appetiser for the pages that follow.
First Bite brings you the months freshest food buzz new launches,
events, great bargains, supermarket sweeps, health tips on food and
more. In every issue we spotlight local produce in season in Need To
Know. And our Good Food Investigates pieces delve deep into important
food issues to bring you insights that really matter to you. P 25

eat
ea
e
at in
in
show
how
w off
o

7Eat In

Recipe
Recipe
cipe
pe
e JANE
JA
ANE
E HORNBY
H
HOR
OR
RN
NB Photograph MYLE
YLES
LES
ES
S NEW
NEW
WS
Styling
yli g LISA
LIS
SA
A HARRISO
H
HARRISON
HA
HARR
Food styling
styling JANE
JA
AN
NE
E HORN
HORNBY
HO
OR
RNB
BY

Juicy cherries bring a summertime spirit to desserts. Make the most of them with our showstoppers

The largest section of the magazine, Eat In is packed with fabulous recipes
with little tips and tricks that are perfect for the home cook. Each recipe is
triple-tested by us so you get it right the very first time you make it. Weve
got everything covered from easy everyday dinners and show-off menus
for the weekend to modern veggie dishes and kid-friendly recipes bursting
with flavours. P 57
Upside-down
pside-down
side-down
de-down
e-down
e-d
d wn
n cherr
c
cher
he
h ry torte
tto
orte
rrte
(recipe
ecipe
cipe overleaf)
overleaf
overlea
overl
erlea
rle
e )

eat out
restaurant reviews

vs
Does an average diner reach the same conclusions about a restaurant as a food pro who might
be recognised and get special treatment? Good Food
d reader Jaya Chaturvedi and food writer
Karen Anand have their own takes on The Flying Elephant in Chennai
THE RESTAURANT

THE PRO

Karen Anand is a
Pune-based food
writer, entrepreneur
and consultant. She
recently organised the
Indian chapter of the
international Taste
festival in Mumbai.

THE FLYING ELEPHANT


The Flying Elephant at Park Hyatt is an opulent
ne dining restaurant offering inventive Turkish,
Southeast Asian and Indian fare. It is spread over
seven levels including a private lounge area, a
vibrant al fresco dining space and six interactive
kitchens. The menu features delicacies such as
Chilean sea bass, a range of Turkish grills, Chicken
Satay with Peanut and Chilli Sauce, Chestnut
Tagliatelle, pavlovas and an eclectic list of
Prohibition-era cocktails.
QThe Flying Elephant, Park Hyatt Chennai, 39,
Velachery Road, Near Raj Bhavan, Chennai.
Tel: +91 44 71771234. Daily 7 pm onwards. Average
spend for two: ` 3,000.
Pushy table turning? No
Regular water offered? Yes
Veggie options?
? Plenty to choose from

THE PU
P NTER

Jaya Chaturvedi is a
Chennai-based banker
who eats out regularly
and keeps tab of trends
in food and dining.

Pan
Pa
aneer
neer ttiiikka
k
kka

Mussels
ussels
els with
th whit
white
h te wi
wine
wine,
w
ine ch
chilli,
chilli
hil
ffen
fenne
fenn
ennel,
e
garlic and parsl
arsley
ley

Signature chocolate cake

FIRST
S IMPR
P ESSI
SION
NS

THE SERVICE

THE FOOD

THE VERDICT

THE BILL

Much has been written about


The Flying Elephant since its
launch in March this year. Given
the whacky name, the press blitz
and Hyatts reputation for great
food, my expectations are high.
But The Flying Elephant is quite
different. Boasting six interactive
kitchens and a culinary theatre, it
resembles Studio 54 in New York:
a multistoried vision in glass with
seating, bars and open kitchens
on all oors and staff that belt out
the chorus of a popular song. Its a
happening place that could well be
in NYC something I least expect
to nd in Chennai. It is calculated
carelessness in an orchestrated
ve-star sort of way, and it works.

As expected, the service


is efcient with wellinformed managers
on hand and chefs
happy to step out of
their designated areas
to help you navigate
through the food menu
and speakeasy-inspired
cocktail menu.

This is really where The Flying Elephant reigns supreme. If you can get past
the theatrics of the vertical dining, the blanket of glass and staff singing away,
the food is outstanding. There are tasting menus for the uninitiated. The
menu itself is simple enough appetisers, soups, vegetarian main courses,
shellsh, pizza, poultry and so on. I share the Peruvian Green Asparagus with
Trufe Salsa and Parmigiano Reggiano shavings. Priced close to ` 1,000, it
isnt cheap but is perfectly executed: thick batons of juicy green asparagus are
lightly grilled and the trufe salsa isnt overpowering. We also try the Pan Fried
Calamari with Chorizo, Artichokes and Bell Peppers. It reminds me of southern
Spanish tapas. The raw artichokes are thinly sliced, lightly grilled and drizzled
with a little olive oil. The quality is superb and the simplicity, stunning. For
mains, I have the Pan Fried Chilean Sea Bass with Fresh Fennel and a Lemon
Sabayon, which tastes like a light hollandaise emulsion. The portion is large
for such an expensive sh but is so delicious and so perfectly cooked that I
actually manage to nish it! No room for sides, cereals or any dessert. Instead, I
treat myself to another cocktail. The Fallen Angel, with champagne, elderower
liqueur and lychee is a winner. I then try Happily Ever After, a long drink with
crushed grapes, Chardonnay and Absolut vodka.

The food is outstanding


and the ambience is
highly charged and
especially exciting on a
Saturday night. However,
the food is not the lone
star here the overall
happening vibe shines
as well.

Anands meal for two including


two cocktails, appetisers and
a main course was ` 4,000
excluding taxes.

The restaurant, located at the


lobby level of the Park Hyatt, is
exquisitely designed. Spanning
multiple levels, the lowermost
one is a lounge area while the
rest exudes a very casual vibe.
The outdoor seating is lovely but
tends to get a bit warm during the
Chennai summer. The tables in the
lounge remind me of a warm and
cosy English bar, but the DJ belting
out club tracks is a bit of a damp
squib and the soundtrack does
not complement the otherwise
charming ambience at all.

The service is a tad


lacklustre, though the staff
is extremely courteous.
There is a need for more
efciency it takes me
quite a few minutes to
catch a servers eye for
something as simple as
a rell of ice and we are
left to fend for ourselves
in the interim. The service
doesnt keep pace with the
pleasant ambience and
doesnt justify the money
that one has to shell out
for a meal.

The restaurant serves Indian, Mediterranean and European cuisine. We


Dining at The Flying
order the Warm Mezze Platter that includes stuffed phyllo, zucchini fritters,
Elephant doesnt live
falafels, dips and pita bread. The falafels are crisp and make for an excellent
up to my expectations.
accompaniment to the pita bread. The zucchini fritters are my pick from this
While the ambience
platter, which has great avours but is not innovative enough. For mains, my
is excellent and the
companion orders Chicken Biryani that is very sportingly prepared by the
food is reasonably
chef, even though it is not listed on the menu. It is avourful and perfectly
good, the service is
spiced. We also order the Paneer with Spinach and Pistachio in a Roasted
average. The menu
Onion Gravy, which is creamy and delicious. The fresh avour of the spinach
largely leans towards
is complemented by the earthiness of the pistachios and the richness of the
European cuisine, and
onion gravy. The Dal Makhani is creamy but needs more spice. The dessert,
offers more variety
however, is awless. The Tiramisu is perfect, with the coffee and mascarpone
to a non-vegetarian
in perfect harmony. Overall, the food appears appetising and tastes good too,
than a vegetarian. The
but is slightly bland for those who
club music is
Want to review a restaurant?
have a preference for spicy fare.
denitely a
For a chance to become Good Foods
Though the avours are perfect,
mood killer.
next punter, email a 200-word review
no dish grabs my attention and the
of any restaurant youve visited,
waitstaff are not forthcoming with
with the heading Pro vs Punter, to
bbcgoodfood@wwm.co.in with your
suggestions either.

FOOD: 9/10
ATMOSPHERE: 8/10
SERVICE: 8/10
TOTAL: 25/30
GO AGAIN?
For sure!

Chaturvedis meal for two


including an appetiser, two
mains and a dessert was
` 3,000 excluding taxes.

FOOD: 6/10
ATMOSPHERE: 9/10
SERVICE: 6/10
TOTAL: 21/30
GO AGAIN?
Not really. It is too expensive,
the food is average and the
service slow.

7Eat Out
This section stands out for its uniquely-positioned restaurant reviews
and features that are authoritative, objective and reliable. A novel approach
to restaurant reviews, our Pro vs Punter section enables a Good Food India
reader to go undercover and rate a restaurant together with an expert. Plus,
we get leading chefs from around the country to simplify their signature
recipes to make at home. P 117

contact details. You could be the


lucky one!

ea
eat
e
att a
away
aw
awa
wa
Viettnam
Vi
Vietnam
nam
nam

eat like a local

7Eat Away

VIETNAM
With its perfect balance of hot, sweet, spicy and sour elements, Vietnams
stunning food is best enjoyed on its chaotic streets

Our seasoned travel journalists and food experts (who often live in the
featured locations) arm you with insider information and recipes from
the worlds most exciting food destinations. Eat Like A Local brings easy,
authentic menus from around the world while Budget and Blowout shows
you how to get your wallets worth when travelling. And City On the Plate
features the insiders food guide to an Indian or international city. P 133

Text, recipes and photographs adapted from VIETNAMESE STREET FOOD and KOTO: A CULINARY JOURNEY
THROUGH VIETNAM by TRACEY LISTER and ANDREAS POHL Photographs by MICHAEL FOUNTOULAKIS
Published by HARDIE GRANT BOOKS

t is often said that life in


Vietnam happens on the streets.
This is particularly true in
the overcrowded inner cities,
where it sometimes seems that the
Vietnamese conduct their daily life, if
not exclusively on the sidewalk, then in
plain view of the streets. Eating on the
street also plays an important part in
daily life.
The Vietnamese version of alfresco
dining is such a natural extension of
street life, so widespread and common,
that it is easy to overlook how fairly
recent the phenomenon of the so-called
com bui, literally dust meals, really is.
Traditionally, family meals at home
were sacred, but historical upheavals
and changes in work practices created
an eating culture with roving food
vendors and street stalls to feed the
hungry masses away from their houses.
The wars for national independence
against the French and the Americans
from 1945 to 1975 displaced scores of
people. These changes revolutionised
not only the way the country was run,
but also the way the country ate.
Kerbside dining ts Vietnams
collectivist culture of doing things
together. Eating alone is frowned upon.
Even if one eats alone, one isnt lonely,
but connected to fellow diners and the
surrounding community.
The shift from eating at home or in
more upmarket restaurants to casual
kerbside dining also marks a transition

from a feudal, class-ridden society to a


more equal one a new society where
peasants and civil servants, students
and shop owners can share a bench and
slurp their noodle soups side by side.
Pho bo or beef noodle soup is
probably the closest the country has to
a national dish. Said to have originated
in the northern Nam Dinh province, it
consists of rice noodles in a rich broth,
topped with nely sliced beef, shallots,
beansprouts, basil and a generous
dollop of chilli sauce. Phoo with chicken
((pho ga) was initially considered a soup
for women and children, and before
1945, only one stall in Hanoi made
pho ga. Nowadays, the soup is a wellloved alternative to the heavy pho bo,
particularly during summer. Although
phoo is originally a northern Vietnamese
dish, it has been adopted by the south
and the recipes changed in the process.
Hot on the heels of phoo is the bun
cha
a chargrilled pork patties oating in
a tangy dipping sauce, served with cold
vermicelli (bun) and an assortment of
herbs and salad leaves. It is often served
with nem ran, fried spring rolls, on a
separate plate. While phoo is traditionally
a breakfast or early dinner, bun cha
rmly occupies the lunchtime slot.
The French left Vietnam in 1954,
but they left behind an enduring love
for fresh, crusty baguettes, banh mi.
Here, baguettes are made from a wheat
and rice our mixture, which results
in very airy bread that has a thin, crisp

MENU FOR 6
7Noodle soup with
chicken
7Green mango salad
7Lemongrass tofu
7Caramel fish with
galangal
7Fruit cups

Pho bo or beef noodle


soup is loved by all

Nood
N
oodle
oo
ood
odle
dle
le
es
soup
so
sou with
w chicke
chicken
hicken
icken
cken
ken
ke
en

Caramel fish
with galangal

A local stall heaped


with fresh artichokes

Noodle soup with


chicken
KOTO: A Culinary
Journey through
Vietnam
m is
available from
flipkart.com for
` 2,006.
Vietnamese
Street Food
d is
available from
amazon.com for
` 1,120.

Serves 6 Q1 hour 10 minutes +


simmering QEASY
Pho ga was invented during the
Japanese occupation in the 1940s
when beef was very hard to come by,
which is why this dish is sometimes
considered the poor cousin of the more
famous beef noodle soup, pho bo. This
is a lighter, easier variation of pho.
red Asian shallots 8
ginger, a 4cm knob, halved
whole chicken 1.6kg
salt 1 tsp
cinnamon 1 stick
star anise 4
sugar 2 tbsp
fish sauce 1 tbsp (try Ayam available at
gourmet stores)
noodles 300g, raw
spring onions 3, sliced + 3, cut into
strips

masterclass
chef skills

DIEGO PALLADINOS

Masterclass
Chef Diego Palladino, International Brand Owner of Pizza Metro Pizza, guides you step
by step on how to make the pizzerias innovative Club 9 pizza
Recipe DIEGO PALLADINO Photographs PAROMA MUKHERJEE

Club 9
Makes 2 large pizzas Q 30 minutes +
resting Q MODERATELY EASY
The pairing of okra and potato in a
pizza is unusual, but it definitely works.
The fried okra provides a wonderfully
crisp contrast to the mushy potatoes
and the salty cheese.
yeast 3 tsp
warm water 1 1/2 cups
extra virgin olive oil 1 tbsp
strong plain flour 4 cups, sifted
salt 2 tsp
THE TOPPINGS
olive oil 3 tbsp + extra for greasing
fresh mozzarella 100g, chopped (try
Impero available at gourmet stores)
onions 60g, sliced and fried
potatoes 6, cubed and oven roasted
with olive oil and rosemary
okra 50g, fried to a crisp
basil leaves 6 + 6 more to garnish
green chillies 3-5, nely chopped
breadcrumbs a handful
goats cheese 20g
parmesan 2 tbsp, grated

PIZZA MAKING TIPS

E!
IVIPES
EP REC
EXCLUS
Y-ST
video
STEP-B
a bonus

Watch Metro Pizzas


of Pizzaomba pizza.
Cicciob on p 20
Details

Q The resting time for the dough


depends on the weather. Colder
climates demand longer proving
hours while warm climates call for
15 minutes or less.
Q Knead the dough well and make
it springy enough to stretch it out.
Q If it looks too wet initally, dont
add extra our. Wait until all the
our is evenly mixed into the yeast
and then add more if required.
Avoid drying out the dough.

7Masterclass
Learn to cook like a pro in our Masterclass section. Pick up cooking lessons
directly from culinary masters in India and abroad. Make restaurantperfect dishes and pick up fine dining finishing touches of chefs through
illustrated step-by-step recipes in Chef Skills. We also feature nifty kitchen
gadgets that sharpen your kitchen skills and our 10-minute wine guide is
perfect for wine lovers. P 144

How to get the best


from Good Food India
Why
y you
y can cook our
recipeswith confidence

What our symbols


mean

All the recipes in Good Food are tested


thoroughly, so theyll work the rst
time for you at home. Most of our
recipes are developed in the Good
Food test kitchen by our cookery
team or come from food writers and
chefs. We aim to make our recipes
as practical as possible, keeping
ingredient lists to a minimum and
avoiding lengthy preparations.

EASY Recipes everyone can make,


even beginners. These dishes are
usually quick, often on the table within
20 minutes.
MODERATELY EASY These require
a bit more skill for example making
and rolling out pastry.
A LITTLE EFFORT
Recipes aimed at experienced cooks
who cook for pleasure and like a
challenge.
CAN BE FROZENUnless otherwise
stated, freeze for up to three months.
Defrost thoroughly and heat until
piping hot.
VEGETARIAN Meat-free dishes.
JAIN Suitable for Jain cooking.

How we triple
p test
our recipes

1
2
3

The rst time is by the recipe writer,


who tests the recipe in a domestic
kitchen.
Next, a member of the cookery
team makes the recipe in the
Good Food India kitchen.
The recipe is then tested at our
photo shoot. Some recipes are
tested a fourth time at home by
individual members of the Good Food
editorial team were all keen cooks
and often cant resist trying out a
recipe we particularly love, as soon as
weve discovered it.
Testing our recipes three times or
more may seem over-cautious, but
mistakes can be costly, so we think it
makes sense to ensure you get the
right result every time.

Over to you
Have a family recipe to
share or think you could
add to our recipes? Email
us at bbcgoodfood@wwm.
co.in and let us know. Were
always on the look out for
new places and food stories
and would love to hear about
great places to eat in your
hometown.

LOOK OUT FOR


THESE HIGHLIGHTS
R
REALL
Y
REALLY
EASY
Y

Those recipes marked with


this stamp are the simplest
and require very little effort.

REALLY
REALLY
QUICK
K

Recipes that can be made


under 20 minutes. Perfect
for hectic weekdays.

with the cloves, cinnamon


, green
cardamoms and
rice.
QCook the rice and
drain in a colander.
Remove the whole
spices. Heat the
one-strand sugar
syrup. Add the rice
and stir gently for
a minute. Cook for
10
minutes till all the
liquid is reduced.
QAdd the khoya,
dried fruits, ghee
and
saffron mixture. Serve
garnished with
silver leaves (optional)
.
Q PER SERVING
973.5 kcals, protein
8.42g, carbs 180.55g,
fat 27.23g, sat fat
16.41g, fibre 0.42g,
salt 0.1g

Phirni (thickened
rice
pudding)
Serves 6-8 Q35

full-cream milk
1l
rice 3 tbsp, soaked
in water for 1 hour,
drained, and ground
to a paste
sugar 250g, powdered
green cardamoms
5, powdered
raisins 10
rosewater 1 tbsp
saffron a big pinch,
soaked in 2 tbsp
warm water
almonds 20, blanched,
skinned and
slivered

Meetha chawal
(sweetened rice)

Serves 8-10 Q1 hour

Q EASY

This sweet and fragrant


rice dessert
is cooked with dry
fruits, sugar and
flavoured with saffron.
A delicious
alternative to milky
rice kheer!

FOR
SKILLED
COOKS
S

Show-off recipes when you


fancy a challenge. These
recipes require a little effort.

minutes Q EASY

Cold phirni served


in earthen bowls
l
with nuts is an excellent,
cooling
dessert. The aroma
of the clay bowls
lends a unique earthy
flavour.

THE ONE-STRAND
SUGAR SYRUP
sugarr 750g
waterr 300ml
saffron, a pinch dissolved
in warm
water
THE RICE
cloves 8-10

cinnamon a 1-inch
stick, halved
green cardamoms
10
REALLY
R
basmati rice 3 cups
REALLY
khoya 250g, crumbled
EASY
Y
dried fruits (almond,
pistachios and
charoli) 2 tbsp, slivered
ghee 200g
saffron a big pinch,
dissolved in 7-8
drops of screw pine
water (kevda) or
rosewater
QTo make the syrup,
boil the sugar
and water together.
Stir constantly to
avoid the sugar from
crystallising. Add
the saffron mixture
and keep aside.
This will take 30
minutes.
QBoil 2 1/2 litres
of water along

pistachios 10, blanched,


skinned and
slivered
QBoil the milk in
a heavy-bottomed
pot; add the rice
paste. Stir constantl
y
with a whisk, so that
there are no
lumps.
QWhen it is thick
and creamy,
y add the
sugar and cardamom
powder. Add the
raisins, rosewater
and saffron mixture;
mix well.
QPour into earthen
bowls (shakoras)
or silver bowls. Serve
sprinkled with
slivered almonds
and pistachios.
Q PER SERVING
236.63 kcals, protein
5g, carbs 42.49g,
fat 5.66g, sat fat
3g,
fibre 0.5g, salt none

For a list of stores that stock gourmet ingredients, turn to p 153


10 BBC GoodFood

THE GOOD FOOD INDIA


PROMISE
We hope you enjoy our lively mix of recipes, restaurant
reviews and travel features. We attempt to make them
fun to read, but we are also serious about eating well and
doing it sustainably. Heres what you can expect from this
and every issue:
TRIPLE-TESTED RECIPES All our recipes are tested
at least three times. For great results, we recommend
you use standard level measuring spoons, and dont mix
imperial and metric measures.
EASY RECIPES Most of Good Foods recipes are quick
and simple to follow and can be made using easily
available ingredients.
THE ODD CHALLENGE Weekends are perfect for
elaborate meals and entertaining. Weve included a
smattering of show-off recipes for those who enjoy a
good challenge.
GOOD VALUE Look out for our recipes that aim to make
the most of your budget 7 meals for ` 700. We also use
full packs, cans and jars where we can, to avoid waste,
but if thats not possible we aim to suggest ways of using
up leftovers.
SEASONAL EATING We love using seasonal ingredients
in our recipes because they give the food a distinct
avour and add seasonal freshness. This month, were
eating a lot of jamun and shehtoot.
HEALTHY EATING We reckon the 80% sensible, 20%
indulgent way of eating is best which is why we support
our recipes with nutritional info. Well also tell you how to
give popular recipes a healthy makeover.
PROVENANCE MATTERS Where possible, we use
humanely reared meats, free-range chickens and eggs,
sustainably sourced sh and unrened sugar.
INTERNATIONAL SAVVY
Y Sometimes, recipes call
for ingredients that arent available locally and cant be
brought to India without notching up air / sea miles. Its
your choice whether or not you use them.
CHEAP EATS AND SMART TREATS Hole-in-the-wall
eateries and ne dining restaurants theres room for
both in Good Foods Eat Out pages.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE The Eat Away section arms
you with insider info and recipes from the worlds most
exciting food destinations written by on-the-ground food
journalists.
BIG ISSUES Preaching doesnt come naturally, so we
wont tell you what, or what not to eat. Instead, we keep
you up-to-date with issues and debates in the food world
in our Good Food Investigates feature. We tell you why
palm oil consumption is a matter of concern on p 38.
JULY 2013

How to make sense of Good Foods


augmented reality (AR) special
View our AR feature embedded
in this issue with three easy-as-pie steps:

Video PAROMA MUKHERJEE

Get the ALIVE app:


Give a missed call to
18001023324
or visit aliveapp.in

eat in7eat out7eat away

TRIPLETESTED
RECIPES

80+

JULY 2013
C 100

India

clever comfort food


7Lotus-stem pakodas
7Spinach rarebits
7Harissa lamb stew
7Achari meatballs
7Cherry trifle

pudding

French fries
reinvented
Cooking with
Indian berries
READER OFFER!
20% off on

4
Royal cherry trie p 15

Open the ALIVE app on your phone and scan the


cover or the Masterclass page (p 144) with the
ALIVE logo by focusing your phones camera on it.
Android/iPhone: Hold still and it will scan
automatically.
BB/Symbian: Go to Options, then capture image.
Windows: Tap on screen to capture and hold still
over image.

Preeta Mathurs new


book The Courtly Cuisine
(T&C apply - see p 99)

EAT OUT

EAT AWAY

Chez N
Ninis
inis
is
signat
gnature
ure
Poutine

St
Street
Food
o
Congress,
Congre
ss
ss,
Singapore

Breakfasts
on trial

Eat lik
like a
Vietn
etnam
mese

MASTERCLASS
ERCLASS

Voila! Watch your


favourite recipe,
Pizza Metro Pizzas
Cicciobomba pizza,
come ALIVE on your
mobile device. You will
get various options
thatll enable you to
view, save and share
these features.

Dieg
Diego
eg
g Pa
Pa
alladino's
lladino's
Club
C
lub
ub
b 9 piizza
zza p 14
144
FREE!
AUGMENTED
REALITY
VIDEO
FOR
INSTRUCTIONS
ON HOW TO VIEW,
TURN TO P 20

Available on selected devices: Android version 2.2 and above, iOS version 4.3 and above,
BB version 5.0 and above, Symbian version S60 and above, Windows version 7.5 and above

Augmented Reality video in this issue


eat in7eat out7eat away

TRIPLETESTED
RECIPES

80+

JULY 2013
C 100

India

clever comfort food

masterclass
chef skills

DIEGO PALLADINOS

Masterclass
Chef Diego Palladino, International Brand Owner of Pizza Metro Pizza, guides you step
by step on how to make the pizzerias innovative Club 9 pizza
Recipe DIEGO PALLADINO Photographs PAROMA MUKHERJEE

Club 9
Makes 2 large pizzas Q 30 minutes +
resting Q MODERATELY EASY

7Lotus-stem pakodas
7Spinach rarebits
7Harissa lamb stew
7Achari meatballs
7Cherry trifle

The pairing of okra and potato in a


pizza is unusual, but it definitely works.
The fried okra provides a wonderfully
crisp contrast to the mushy potatoes
and the salty cheese.
yeast 3 tsp
warm water 1 1/2 cups
extra virgin olive oil 1 tbsp
strong plain flour 4 cups, sifted
salt 2 tsp
THE TOPPINGS
olive oil 3 tbsp + extra for greasing
fresh mozzarella 100g, chopped (try
Impero available at gourmet stores)
onions 60g, sliced and fried
potatoes 6, cubed and oven roasted
with olive oil and rosemary
okra 50g, fried to a crisp
basil leaves 6 + 6 more to garnish
green chillies 3-5, nely chopped
breadcrumbs a handful
goats cheese 20g
parmesan 2 tbsp, grated

pudding

French fries
reinvented
Cooking with
Indian berries
READER OFFER!
20% off on

4
Royal cherry trie p 15

PIZZA MAKING TIPS

Preeta Mathurs new


book The Courtly Cuisine
(T&C apply - see p 99)

EAT OUT

EAT AWAY

Chez Ninis
Ni i
signature
ignatur
atur
Poutine

Street Food
Fo
Congress,
ngres
gres
Singapore

Breakfasts
on trial

Eat like
ike
ea
Vietn
etnam
mese
mese

MASTERCLASS
ERCLASS
Diego Pa
Dieg
Pa
alladino's
lladino's
Club 9 p
pizza
izza p 144
144
14
FREE!
AUGMENTED
REALITY
VIDEO

STEPa bonus video

Watch Metro Pizzas


of Pizzaomba pizza.
Cicciob on p 20
Details

Q The resting time for the dough


depends on the weather. Colder
climates demand longer proving
hours while warm climates call for
15 minutes or less.
Q Knead the dough well and make
it springy enough to stretch it out.
Q If it looks too wet initally, dont
add extra our. Wait until all the
our is evenly mixed into the yeast
and then add more if required.
Avoid drying out the dough.

FOR
INSTRUCTIONS
ON HOW TO VIEW,
TURN TO P 20

P1
Scan our cover with the ALIVE
app and watch Chef Diego
Palladinos masterclass of Pizza
Metro Pizzas signature recipe.

JULY 2013

E!
IVIPES
USREC
EXCL
-BY-STEP

P 144 Masterclass
Alternatively, you could scan the
Masterclass page to watch Palladinos
pizza lesson on video.

CICCIOBOMBA PIZZA ON VIDEO


Pizza with meatballs, you say? You heard us right.
This month were showing our love for meatballs,
and this unusual pizza with meatballs, mozzarella,
tomato, ham, salami, black olives, mushrooms and
sausage is just the antidote for a rainy day. In all its
excessive glory, this pie is unbashedly meaty, yet
the crisp pizza base never gives way. Take note and
watch Pizza Metro Pizzas International Brand Owner
and Chef Diego Palladino as he rustles up one of the
chains signature recipes in the authentic Italian way.
Buon appetito!

BBC GoodFood 11

Privilege Programme
goodfoodprivileges.in

HOME

RESTA
AURA
ANT OFF
F ERS
S PARTNER UPDATES

SHO
OP ONLINE
E

VENTURES
S
GASTRO
ONOMIC ADV

THAI TIME

The next time you have a craving for Thai, treat yourself to
a meal at celebrated chef Ian Kittichais famed restaurant,
Koh at The Intercontinental, Marine Drive. Start with
the Koh Signature Bloody Mary or the Smokey Black
Mojito, classic cocktails given an Asian twist. Then sample
Kittichais signature dishes like Crispy Rock Shrimp Koh
Style, Poached Fillet of Vietnamese Sea Perch, Morning
Glory and Lamb Massaman, all of which are cooked using
traditional methods, but styled to look contemporary
and of international standard. Ingredients are own in
from across the world, including vegetables and silken
tofu from Bangkok and Chiang Mai, Australian lamb
chops, and mushrooms from Japan.
Kittichai also unveiled the latest
edition of his pop-up menus
known as Whats New At
Koh. This includes Asian
Salmon Tacos, Long Chilli
Braised Young Bamboo
Shoots, Spiced Tiger Prawn
Soup, Clay Pot Chicken
and Reconstructed New York
Cheesecake. There are healthy options
too, such as Fresh Tofu and Field Mushroom
Broth and Basil Chilli Brown Rice for the
calorie conscious. Admire the modern
Asian decor and appreciate the
calm vibe of the restaurant as you
tuck into your meal.

All about BBC Good Food Indias Privilege Programme


At BBC Good Food India
a, we believe no reader of ours should ever have to sit down to anything less than a kings feast. Which is why when you
subscribe to our magazine, you receive an exclusive Privilege Card that allows you to live out all your food fantasies through a host of special offers.
You can swing by over 150 hand-picked ne dining restaurants and enjoy special prices, welcome drinks and complimentary desserts. Or head out on
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To subscribe, SMS GFPC to 58888 or log on to mags.timesgroup.com/good-food.html


12 BBC GoodFood

JULY 2013

rst bite
news, trends, shopping

x
After all, what could be more adorable and scrumptious than cake on lollipop sticks?
Recipe ROBIN CHATTERJEE, Proprietor, Yogurtbay Photographs RITAM BANERJEE

SWEET TALKERS
Incredibly easy to make, these
petite creations are a cross
between a mini cake and a
lollipop. The chocolate shell
frosting gives way to moist,
crumbly goodness as you bite
in. Impart finishing touches by
decorating them with sprinkles,
chocolate chips, fondant,
flavoured icing or candy. Were
eyeing the dark chocolate
cake pops from Kishi Aroras
Foodaholics in Delhi, along
with Mumbai-based Not Just
Desserts unusual peanut butter
cake pops. They make for the
cutest little treats at picnics, baby
showers or birthday parties.
Whats not to love?

rst bite
news, trends, shopping

pop stars
Want to indulge, yet practice portion control? These
bite-sized cakelets are perfect!
Cake pops
Makes 30 Q50 minutes + baking +
cooling QEASY
brown sugar 165g (try Mawana
available at gourmet stores)
unsalted butter 225g
eggs 2
self-raising flour 150g (try Bluebird
available at gourmet stores)
cocoa powder 30g
dark cooking chocolate 200g,
chopped (try Morde available at
gourmet stores)
dark compound chocolate
375g, chopped, for melting (try
Callebaut available at gourmet
stores)
vegetable oil 1 1/2 tsp
white compound chocolate
120g, chopped, for melting
(try Callebaut available at
gourmet stores)
chocolate chips and
chocolate sprinkles to
decorate
bamboo skewers
30 small
Styrofoam block 1

QPreheat the oven to 180C.


Grease and line the base and sides
of a 20cm round cake tin with
butter paper. Line a large oven tray
with butter paper too.
QUsing an electric mixer beat the
sugar and 125g butter in a bowl until
pale and creamy. Slowly add the eggs,
beating well between each addition.
Sift the our and cocoa powder over
the butter mixture, and stir to combine.
Spoon into the prepared pan and
smoothen the surface. Bake for 35-40
minutes or until a skewer inserted into
the centre of the cake comes out clean.
Turn onto a wire rack to cool completely.
QMeanwhile, combine 200g dark
cooking chocolate and the remaining
butter in a medium bowl over a
saucepan of simmering water (do not
let the water touch the base of the
bowl). Stir the mixture occasionally with
a metal spoon, for 5 minutes or until
smooth and glossy. Remove from heat,
and set aside for 30 minutes, or until
slightly thickened and cooled.
QBreak the cake into pieces and place
them into the bowl of a food processor.
Process until the mixture resembles ne
breadcrumbs. Place in a large bowl and
add the chocolate mixture. Stir until well
combined.
QRoll tablespoons of the cake mixture
into balls and place on the lined tray.
Refrigerate for 3 hours or until rm.
QPlace the other 375g dark compound
chocolate in a bowl over a pan of
simmering water and stir with a spoon
so that it melts. Add vegetable oil and
stir to combine.
QDip the end of one skewer in the
chocolate then insert into a ball. Return
to the tray. Repeat with the remaining
balls, and rest for 5 minutes or until set.
QDip a cake ball into melted chocolate,
turning to coat, and tap gently on

TIPS
QThe cake
pops should
ideally be dipped
in compound
chocolate
rather than pure
chocolate, since
the former doesnt
need tempering
and will not melt at
room temperature.
QIf you are pressed
for time, you can
use Pillsburys
Funfetti Cake Pop
Mix, available on
zansaar.com.
(Sprinkles and
other decorating
material is
available at Arife
Stores in Mumbai,
or on websites like
gourmetco.in and
bakersmart.co.in)

the side of the bowl to remove


excess. Insert the skewer in the
Styrofoam to set. Repeat with
remaining balls and chocolate. Set
aside for 30 minutes to set.
QTo make pops with a white chocolate
coating, place the white compound
chocolate in a bowl over a pan of
simmering water and stir with a spoon
so that it melts. Remove from heat and
set aside for 5 minutes to cool slightly.
QSpoon a little melted chocolate
over the top of each cake pop. Top
with some white chocolate. Decorate
with chocolate chips and chocolate
sprinkles. Return to Styrofoam to set
completely.

need to know
news, trends, shopping

CUPBOARD LOVE
MAYONNAISE

THE JURYS OUT


Garlic
THE CASE FOR
Garlic is my go-to ingredient
when I want to jazz up a
savoury dish. Once you get past
the smell (I actually love it), the
avour garlic adds to a dish is
heavenly. Better still, this smelly
bulb is endlessly versatile. Toss
up a avour-packed aglio olio
or a delish garlic raita garlic
sexes up almost anything
instantly. Even
a humble
dal tastes
sublime with
a tadka of
crisp browned
garlic and
chillies. Flavour apart, this
smelly bulb has some stellar
health benets. Like its
antioxidant properties which
are legendary. Okay, so its
tedious to peel and chop, but
the effort is so totally worth it.
Let garlic-haters carp. I cant
imagine food (or life) without
this wonder ingredient!
-PRIYANKA HOSANGADI

How to use up
THE CASE AGAINST
I owe my garlic aversion to
its complete lack of subtlety.
Throw in a few cloves of
garlic in a pesto and it ends
up taking centre-stage,
overwhelming the otherwise
delicate and nutty avours
of the pasta sauce. But
pungency is far from my
only grouse against the bulb.
Chop a few cloves and your
hands reek of its
strong stench.
Garlic might
be touted as
a powerhouse
of antioxidants
and a remedy
for several ailments,
but I cant comprehend
how anyone can get over
its offensive odour. Even
the strongest mint or the
proverbial saunff served after
a meal at an Indian restaurant
cannot remedy foul-smelling,
garlic-infused breath. Yuck!
-KHORSHED DEBOO

7Baby potato and sundried tomato


salad Cook 500g baby potatoes
in boiling, salted water until tender.
Drain and cool under cold running
water. Remove the skins and keep aside.
In a bowl, mix 4 tbsp hung curd, 4 tbsp
mayonnaise and 1 tbsp olive oil with a
pinch of sugarr and seasoning. Stir in
8-10 sundried tomatoes, 1 tsp chopped
parsley
y and 2 chopped spring onions. Add the
potatoes and coat in the creamy dressing. Serve.
7Egg, mayo and watercress wraps Hard-boil 3 eggs for 10 minutes,
then drain and cool under cold water. Peel, roughly chop and put in a
bowl. Roughly chop a handful of watercress, and stir it into the eggs
with some salt, pepperr and 4 tbsp mayonnaise. Divide the lling
between 2 bread rolls.
7Bay scented prawns with basil mayonnaise Soak 4 wooden
skewers in water for 30 minutes. For the basil mayonnaise, place 30g
basil leaves into a pan of boiling water for 1 minute, then remove and
put into a bowl of cold water. Drain and squeeze out excess water from
the leaves and put into a food processor with 2 tbsp
olive oil. Whizz for 1-2 minutes until you have a ne
paste. Add 125g mayonnaise and a squeeze of lime
juice. Blend until smooth, transfer to a bowl and chill.
Thread 4 prawns and 3 bay leaves onto each skewer.
Brush all over with more oil. Season well. Barbecue
for 4-5 minutes, turning once until tender. Serve warm
with the basil mayo.
7Try American Garden available at gourmet
stores like Foodhall, ` 175 for 237g.

SUPERMARKET SWEEP
Pop into the supermarket for a speedy weeknight meal

+
+

Spiced prawn and mango noodles Serves 2 Q40 minutes Q EASY

TOTAL CO
ST

` 305

Cook 100g Blue Dragon fine egg noodles (`


(` 135/250g) according to pack instructions and drain. Stir-fry prawns (`
(` 80/250g) with Blue Dragons
chilli coconut shot (`
(` 140/115g). Add 1 tsp of nely chopped coriander (`
(` 5/bunch). Peel and slice 1 mango (`
(` 150 /6 mangoes). Toss everything
together, garnish with chopped coriander and serve.
JULY 2013

BBC GoodFood 15

Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE


Photograph GARETH MORGANS

need to know
news, trends, shopping

10-MINUTE PUDDINGS
Get your sugar fix in double-quick time with
these sweet recipe ideas
7 Iced berry Eton mess Whizz a pack of frozen berries in a
blender with a splash of orange juice. Swirl whipped cream with
crushed meringues and pile into glasses.
7Lemon and ginger layers Mix Greek yoghurt with lemon zest
and a squeeze of lime juice, then swirl in some lemon curd. Crush
ginger biscuits to crumbs then layer up the biscuits and lemon
yoghurt in pretty glasses.
7Hot fudge brownies Put 50g butter, 50g unrefined brown
sugar and 75ml double cream in a pan. Heat until the sugar
dissolves, then boil for 4-5 minutes until thick. Warm 4 brownies in
the microwave. Top with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and the fudge
sauce.
7Almond affagato Scoop vanilla ice cream into a bowl. Top with
a shot each of Amaretto and espresso and sprinkle over flaked
toasted almonds.
7Pain perdu with cinnamon sugar Dip sliced brioche bread in
beaten egg then fry in butter. Sprinkle with a mix of golden caster
sugar and cinnamon.

CLASSIC

CASUAL

Get your first taste of the hottest new restaurants on the block

COSY

TABLE HOPPING

THREE WINDOWS, DELHI

THE WHITE OWL, MUMBAI

SATTVAM, BENGALURU

Housed within the alternative art space, Khoj


Studio, the interiors of this chic bistro are
swathed in stark white, creating an illusion
of space. With just two tables and a bench,
the menu includes both wholesome dishes
as well as comfort food from a refreshing
gazpacho and falafel burgers to the classic BLT
and Victoria sponge cake, with a few salads
and quiches thrown in as well. Free Wi-Fi lures
freelancers and gallery hoppers from the
precinct, who ock especially for the special
weekend brunch.
Khoj Studio, Khirkee, Malviya Nagar;
Tel: +91 11 65655873

The humungous ceiling ornaments, dim


lighting and exposed brick walls at this bar
give it a grungy yet slick appeal. Slightly
dingy, this is the kind of place you would
seek refuge at after work. The list of heady
Owltails, a spin on cocktails, includes the
Biddy (a potent concoction of whiskey, triple
sec, orange chunks and egg white) and the
Socialista (vodka, fresh pomegranate and mint
juice). With a microbrewery in the ofng, were
hoping this sprawling space doubles as an
upcoming gig venue soon.
One Indiabulls Center, Tower 2B;
Tel: +91 22 24210231

This elegantly designed split-level vegetarian


eatery dishes out Sattvic fare (sans onion,
garlic, ginger and caffeine), but highlights
uncommon ingredients in novel ways. The
inherent philosophy is to serve freshly
prepared food that promotes good health.
Favourites include the aromatic Broccoli Apple
Shorba, Singhada Pepper Fry, Kamrakh (star
fruit) curry and Fruit Sondesh Brlee. Besides
the extensive la carte menu, the restaurant
is gradually gaining popularity for its buffet
spread, with more than 75 dishes on offer.
35, Sankey Road, Sadashivnagar;
Tel: +91 80 23608000

16 BBC GoodFood

JULY 2013

need to know
news, trends, shopping

FRESH ON
THE SHELVES

COCKTAIL
OF THE MONTH

Whats new in
supermarkets this month?

Vinedo Italian spritz

` 45 for 200g
Kale is the newest
leafy entrant
in the Indian
supermarket.
From the cabbage family,
kale leaves are a dull green in colour and
have smooth or crinkly leaves. We love the
herbaceous intensity raw kale lends to salads
but its mellowed bitterness in stir-fries is just as
delicious. Rich in vitamins C and K, kale is also
packed with nutrition. Try kale chips and youll
never look at a leafy green the same way again!

Fill a large wine glass with ice


cubes and add 50ml sangiovese
red wine, 25ml Campari, a
dash of orange juice and 25ml
sparkling wine. Stir and garnish
with a slice of orange.

Recipe courtesy bargalante.com Photograph LARA HOLMES

KALE FROM
TRIKAYA AGRO

Serves 1 Q5 minutes QEASY

SOULFULL RAGI
CEREALS ` 190 for 300g
Like pellet-sized Chocos sans
the sugar, Soulfulls ragi cereal
is a guaranteed guilt-free way
to start the day. Although
the cereal we try is cocoaavoured, it has only the
barest hint of sugar. The glutenfree pellets are addictively
crunchy, which makes them
perfect for midday snacking.
Add some milk and chopped fruit to make a
complete breakfast.

CANTINA MEXICANA
GUACAMOLE MIX ` 95 for 25g
We are expecting to open this packet, add
some water and have a readymade guacamole.
Instead, the instructions tell us to chop up two
avocadoes and a tomato, with the mix only
providing additional avouring. Considering that
the appeal of guacamole
lies in the buttery
avocado, we think this
mix defeats the purpose.
The dried vegetables
and herbs simply add a
strange savouriness. We
say skip this shortcut
and go for the real deal.

JULY 2013

LUST HAVE
Royce Chocolates
When you open a box of Royce Chocolates and see the
perfect squares of dark chocolate dusted with chocolate
powder inside. you realise why this Japanese
brand has acquired such a global cult
following. Luckily for us, the rst retail
outlet of the brand, located at the
Palladium mall in Mumbai, is set to open
in early July. Goodies on offer will
include Nama chocolate, innovative
Potatochip chocolate or potato
chips coated with chocolate,
straightforward chocolate bars
and salty popcorn coated with
chocolate. However, all this TLC comes
at a price. Prices at the Indian store will
start at ` 494 for a chocolate bar, going up
to ` 1,665 for a box of assorted Amande or
roasted almonds coated in chocolate.

BBC GoodFood 17

need to know
pantry basics

ON TEST Frozen chicken nuggets


Nothing says comfort snack like chicken nuggets. We put five brands to our taste test to see which
one truly satisfies
Words KAINAZ CONTRACTOR Photographs SHREYA GUPTA
VENKY S ` 75/ 200g
Venkys nuggets are a pleasing golden brown
n
with a juicy and sparingly avoured chicken
lling. The thin layer of breadcrumbs adds
texture without being overwhelming. Thanks
to their mild taste, these nuggets are ideal
to pair with innovative dips or even toss in a
stir-fry.
AL KABEER ` 70/150g
With the longest recommended
cooking time of four to six
minutes, this brand of nuggets
comes in assorted shapes. Like
all of Al Kabeers other frozen
meat products, this one too has
halal chicken and comes laden
with additional spices. The
raw nugget is bright orangebrown in colour, but thankfully
this does not translate into a
heavily spiced and Indianised
nugget. The overpowering
crumb crust leaves a
distasteful synthetic
aftertaste, a pity given
the juicy inside with its
unadulterated chicken
avour.

LOVES

GODREJ YUMMIEZ ` 140/ 300g


Godrejs Dinoz brand owes its name to the nuggets that
vaguely resemble dinosaurs. Stick to the instructions at
tthe back and theres no way you can falter. We try both
the deep-fried and pan-fried options. Both the nuggets
co
ome out perfectly crisp on the outside and succulent on
th
he inside, sans excess oil. We prefer the pan-fried ones as
theyre healthier without compromising on taste or texture.
th

ZORABIAN ` 120/ 250g


While the packaging claims
the nuggets are a healthy
alternative, the only listed
cooking method is deepfrying. Since our baking
attempts are a failure, we
assume they mean the
nuggets are pre-baked. But
we are pleased to report
that the gnocchi-shaped
fried nugget has a lovely
outer texture from the
baked breadcrumbs and
the chicken is avoured
with dried oregano. This
is the only brand that
recommends thawing the
nugget before cooking.

SUMERU ` 65/ 200g


Sumerus reasonably priced nuggets have a distinctly Indian taste with spices
such as turmeric, coriander and pepper. Fried to a perfect
crisp within two minutes, we like their onion and garlicheavy avour. However, the nugget oddly has as much
minced chicken as onion. Unlike Yummiez, this brand only
recommends deep frying. But the spices cause the fried
nuggets to brown much faster than the others.

Potato mashers
FOO
OD MILL ` 650
This one might look
unconventional but we
effortlessly mash
h a pot full of
potatoes without the slightest
pa
ain. The me
m chanissm, involving
blades off varying sha
arpness, is quite
complex, but it consissts of a vertical
LOVES
plate that stops food from moving
aro
ound to make mashing easier. The only
manual labour required is to rotate the lever in
a clockwise direction and spoon through the
grated potatoes to achieve a ne mash.

18 BBC GoodFood

NYLON MASHER ` 50
This heat resistant potato masher
is a great addition to any kitchen.
The nylon body of the masher is
safe for all non-stick nishes so
you can mash the potatoes directly
in the pan you intend to heat the
mash in. The up-curved edges
leading to the handle of the
masher aid in efciency but
the metal handle with
sharp edges may leave
your hands sore.

METAL MASHER ` 45
This durable, old school steel masher
does the job of smashing potatoes
to a smooth paste rather efciently.
The only downside is the handle,
which can get uncomfortable
when mashing a large batch of
potatoes. The oversized base is
designed to t into large pans and
works with large volumes, while
the mashers holed design
at the base provides
leverage and efciency.

JULY 2013

need to know
news, trends, shopping

pp g

BARGAINHUNTER
Good Food
d tracks down this months top foodie events, meals and deals

All prices
PER HEAD
excluding taxes
and travel

Words KHORSHED DEBOO

` 239-A-HEAD DINNER
PARTY FOR FOUR!

7 Pumpkin salad with soy


balsamic dressing (p 71) ` 246
7 Chicken with coconut and cashews (p 62) ` 327
7 Cherry pie and vanilla cream (p 110) ` 383
Total ` 956
(`` 239 per head)

` 995 POWER LUNCH AT


EKAYANA, MUMBAI

Office goers
deserve a break
from humdrum
dabbass and insipid
canteen food. This
is exactly why
Ekayanas power
lunch ts the bill
perfectly its
worth every rupee.
Housed within
the luxurious
Shangri-La, smack in the middle of the bustling office district of Lower
Parel, Ekayanas lunch spans across North Indian and Lebanese fare.
The four-course lunch includes a choice between two appetisers or the
chefs special soup, followed by a choice of main course dishes such
as Lebanese Pizza, Mutton Kolhapuri or Paneer Rasmissa. We suggest
you pick the Masala Chai Crme Brlee for dessert and nish off with
a beverage. With a meal so comforting, the power lunch tag is a tad
baffling to us. But such deals are hard to come by. We certainly arent
complaining! Tel: +022 61628000; Weekdays, 12 noon 3 pm
JULY 2013

CITIBANK CHEFS TABLE


WEEK, DELHI

After a super successful outing


in March, Citibank Chefs
Table Week in association with
BBC Good Food
d is back in
Delhi with a remarkable lineup. Participating restaurants
include Dakshin at the
Sheraton, Indian Accent,
Sakura, La Riviera, Konomi
and Travertino. Citibank
Premier Miles and Ultima card
customers can take advantage
of a customised six-course
tasting menu at each of the
restaurants, attractively priced
at ` 2,500. However, the
absence of a set menu is what impresses us. Each chef will dish out what
suits his fancy, taking you by surprise. The icing on the cake one gets
a chance to interact with the chef behind this stellar menu. We suggest
you book pronto in order to avoid disappointment. From 1st to 7th July
2013. Visit chefstableweek.com to make reservations.

` 599 THREE COURSE PRIX


FIXE LUNCH AT OLIVE
BEACH, BENGALURU

Loyalists enchanted by Olive Beach,


the citys most adored ne dining
space, now have more reason to cheer.
Conceptualised by Executive Chef
Manu Chandra, the three-course
Mediterranean prix xe lunch at
a fraction of the cost, undoubtedly
merits a try. The set lunch at this
charming restaurant comprises a
starter, a main and dessert, with a
plethora of options to choose from.
Starters include the popular Baked
Brie stuffed with caramelised onions,
Horiatiki, and a rich Wild Mushroom
Tart made with fresh puff pastry, herbed goats cheese and wild
mushroom ragout. Mains comprise Mustard-crusted Reef Cod, Stuffed
Chicken, and Beetroot and Goats Cheese Risotto. Ending the meal with
the Banana Toffee Cake or Yoghurt Panna Cotta will keep you satised
until dinner. Spare an afternoon to unwind, youll thank us.
Tel: +080 41128400; Monday to Saturday, 12 noon 3.30 pm
BBC GoodFood 19

investigates

Palm oil

Joanna Blythman finds out where this mystery ingredient is coming from, how were
consuming so much more of it than we realise and what the consequences are

hen youre making


up your shopping
list, its a safe bet
that palm oil doesnt
appear on it. In fact, you may not
even be aware that you are eating
it, or using it in your home.Yet this
obscure, tropical ingredient turns up
in one in every10 processed foods.
Its in everything from crisps, instant
soup, biscuits and chips to ice cream,
margarine and chocolate, as well as
being a common ingredient in fast
food. Some of the most beloved
foods in the world contain palm oil
including Nutella spreads, which
contain nearly 20 per cent of this
saturated fat and even breakfast cereals.
Palm oil is a slippery customer
because it is rarely listed as an
ingredient on food labels, more often
being subsumed under the anonymous
heading of vegetable oil or vegetable
fat. Most of us also use it unknowingly
in products such as detergent, soaps,
toothpaste, eyeliner, lipstick, shampoo,
and even as fuel. We need to know
more about this mystery ingredient
because when we eat or use palm
oil for cooking, we could indirectly
be aiding the destruction of tropical
forests, the extinction of endangered
animals and human rights abuses.

PALM TREES VS
FORESTS
Palm oil is an ancient oil derived from
the eponymous tree. Where once it
was grown in a traditional way to
20 BBC GoodFood

provide a source of food and income


for small growers, in recent years, its
production has expanded. Nowadays, it
is cultivated on vast plantations owned
by large companies. The problem is
that whole swathes of virgin forest in
Malaysia and Indonesia have been
cleared or burnt down to make way for
palm oil production. This peaty forest
is one of the most concentrated stores
of carbon on the planet; clearing the
forest on top, draining the peat and
burning it releases vast amounts of
greenhouse gases.
Land clearance for palm oil
plantations has seen indigenous people
and small growers displaced from their

urgent intervention, the palm oil trade


will make the species extinct within
a decade. The Sumatran tiger is also
threatened.

RISING DEMAND
Despite all the issues surrounding
palm oil, demand for it continues to
soar. It is the cheapest oil available to
food manufacturers, which makes it
very attractive. In recent years, Indian
imports of both crude palm oil and the
rened kind, which is used for cooking,
have soared. In fact, along with China
and the EU, India is one of the largest
importers of palm oil in the world.
While India imported 7.67 million

We need to know more about this


mystery ingredient because when we eat
or use palm oil, we could indirectly be
aiding the destruction of tropical forests,
the extinction of endangered animals and
human rights abuses
land and according to environmental
groups, suffer human rights abuses
as a result. Rare wildlife has also paid
a price for palm oil expansion. The
only orangutans now left in the world
live in Borneo and Sumatra where the
lowland forests that sustain them are
being rapidly destroyed as Malaysia
and Indonesia vie to become the
worlds biggest supplier of palm oil.
Wildlife groups warn that without

tonnes of palm oil in 2011-12, that


gure is expected to jump by as much
as 17 per cent in 2013, to a projected
9 million tonnes, according to a Reuters
report.
Now that health campaigners
have largely succeeded in getting
companies to remove artery-clogging
trans fats from their foods, palm oil is
more in demand than ever as a cheap
replacement for chemically hardened
JULY 2013

Photograph NUI7711/123RF

need to know
food issues

need to know
food issues

GREENING UP PALM OIL


In 2004 the Roundtable on Sustainable
Palm Oil (RSPO), a non-prot
organisation that represents all the
stakeholders involved in the palm
oil business, was created in Zurich,
aiming to encourage producers to
grow more responsibly, while retailers
and manufacturers undertake to buy
palm oil that comes from sustainable
sources. Aware of their inability to say
where their palm oil came from, many
supermarkets and food manufacturers
signed up to the scheme. It aims to
promote and certify palm oil that
is grown in a responsible way. For
instance, rainforests cannot be cut
down, there can be no carbon-releasing
burning, the palms must be managed
using natural fertilisers rather than
pesticides and harvested using buffalo
instead of heavy equipment that would
damage the soil.

MAKING PROGRESS
This initiative, in tandem with
campaigning by environmentalists,
has had some success. By 2006, the
Indonesian government abandoned its
plans to create a palm oil fence running
the length of the Malaysia-Indonesia
border in Borneo. This mega-plantation
22 BBC GoodFood

which would have been equivalent to


one and a half times the size of Wales
(making it the worlds biggest and
most destructive agricultural project)
would have sounded the death knell for
the remaining orangutans on the island.
Currently, several leading
supermarkets in Britain have made
very public commitments to use only
sustainably sourced palm oil in the near
future. They are moving over to using
only RSPO-certied oil that comes
with green palm certicates. However,
in India, there is still very little
awareness about the environmental
tradeoff involved in producing cheap
palm oil for consumption and cooking.
NGOs such as World Wildlife
Fund India have been campaigning
to increase consumer and corporate
awareness about palm oil. A few
companies have sat up and taken
notice. For instance, toeing the line
of its parent company Unilever a
long-time member of the RSPO
Hindustan Unilever is one of the
rst Indian companies to commit to
procuring certied sustainable palm oil.
However, environmental groups say
that despite the RSPOs interventions,
the problems associated with palm oil
are still far from resolved. They claim
that even apparently sustainable oil
may not be what it seems. Greenpeace
palm oil campaigner Ian Duff says that
powerful palm oil-growing companies
have pressurised the roundtable to set
standards that are too weak and not
properly enforced.
Besides, food labelling regulations
dont stipulate that palm oil be labelled
separately. If this was done, it could no
longer be included anonymously under
the generic vegetable oil and fat labels,
and people would know they were
eating it.
Five years ago, very few people
knew about the controversy
surrounding palm oil. Now, it is on our
radar. But it may be some time yet, it
seems, before the worlds last remaining
orangutans can snooze blissfully
under the forest canopy without being
disturbed by the approaching hum of a
chainsaw.

HOW TO MAKE PALM OIL


MORE SUSTAINABLE
Q Avoid products that list vegetable oil, margarine or
fat of unspecied origin as an ingredient. Opt instead
for those that use butter, or one specic oil such as
olive, sunower, corn or peanut oil.
Q If you do buy food containing vegetable oil, look at
the nutrition label to see whether or not it contains
saturated fat. If anything more than minimal amounts
of saturated fat are listed, there is a high chance that
you are buying palm oil.
Q Stop buying non-food products containing palm
oil. Look at the label palm oil has to be listed, but it
appears under its botanical name, elaeis guineensis.
Q Check out the World Wildlife Funds scorecard that
rates supermarkets and manufacturers according
to how progressive they are on using palm oil from
sustainable sources. Visit tinyurl.com/ykjvpg
QIn India, companies that have committed to buying
eco-friendly or green palm oil from the RSPO include
Godrej Industries, Adani Wilmar and Ruchi Soya,
among others.

JULY 2013

Photograph CHARLES KREBS/CORBIS

hydrogenated fats such as dalda. Unlike


other vegetable oils, palm oil is solid at
room temperature, making it perfect
for use in the food industry as it allows
products to have a longer shelf-life.
Being cheap and easy to grow,
palm oil also makes a perfect crop
for biofuels. This means that the hunt
for less environmentally destructive
alternatives to petrol and diesel is
pushing further palm oil expansion.
Palm oil is increasingly stepping in to
compensate for fast depleting fossil
fuels. In 2010, the European Union set
the goal that requires that 10 per cent
of all transportation fuel should come
from sustainable or renewable sources
by 2020. As a result, palm oil is being
used to make petrol and diesel in the
UK and elsewhere. Now more than
ever before, palm oil is playing a bigger
and bigger role in our lives.

need to know
books

books & cooks


The lowdown on this months top foodie reads
Words KHORSHED DEBOO

The Married Mans Guide to


Creative Cooking by Samar
Halarnkar
With its raw, unassuming appeal,
engaging trivia and a sprinkling of
humour, this cookbook isnt just
useful for men but for any rsttimer in the kitchen. The author
narrates how he validates his
cooking by getting his six-monthold daughter to try it and also
shares his surprisingly successful
attempts at pleasing his vegetarian
wife. The Goan Fish Curry we tried
was ready in eight minutes, just as
the author promised. The recipe
for Srinagar garam masala seems
particularly interesting. However,
the book is more an essay on
Halarnkars personal cooking
journey than a married mans goto guide to the ABCs of cooking.
Available from Westland for
` 495

The Hummingbird Bakery


Home Sweet Home by
Tarek Malouf
If we had to summarise this book
in a word, wed say comforting.
With beautiful photographs
that trigger hunger pangs and
inspiration to bake on a damp,
rainy afternoon, this well-curated
collection of classic treats from
the authors London-based
Hummingbird Bakery is apt for
home bakers. While the Peach
Cobbler we tried was a tad
too sugary for our liking, the
Flourless Chocolate Cake, a basic
recipe involving no more than
ve ingredients, turned out so
gratifyingly delicious that we
almost had a slice for every meal.
The cookies and tray bakes are
next on our baking list.
Available from Harper Collins
for ` 999

300 Calories or Less


As the title suggests, each dish
in this compilation contains
300 or less calories per serving.
This collection of 50 healthy
yet delicious recipes covers
breakfast, lunch, dinner, snacks
and dessert. The introductory
pages are a bit preachy and
they ideally belong in a health
magazine. We dont like the fact
that almost all the recipes call
for vegetable oil spray since not
many home cooks prefer it as
a cooking medium. The book
is accompanied by a daily food
tracker in booklet form but were
a bit unsure why anyone would
religiously jot down their food
intake and work out the math
when several apps can perform
the same task in a jiffy.
Available from Parragon Books
for ` 395

Try this recipe!

Coconut macaroons
Makes 30 Q1 hour QEASY

Recipe courtesy THE HUMMINGBIRD BAKERY HOME SWEET


HOME Photograph KATE WHITAKER

JULY 2013

Preheat the oven to 160C and line three baking trays with
parchment. Mix together 370ml condensed milk, 370g desiccated
coconut and 1 tsp vanilla extract. Whisk 2 egg whites until they
form stiff peaks. Fold the egg whites into the coconut mixture.
Spoon the mixture onto the trays roughly 1 tablespoon per cookie.
Keep them about 1 1/2 inches apart. Bake for 20-30 minutes or until
golden brown. Cool completely before serving.

Cocktails for a Crowd by


Kara Newman
This one is handy for those who
host house parties regularly
but nd themselves trapped
behind the bar. An entire chapter
devoted to speedy techniques to
stir up concoctions, a list of nifty
equipment and unusual garnishes,
along with a practical guide to
measuring liquids, lends credibility
to the recipes that follow. The tiny
volume of 40-odd versatile recipes
is good enough for a leisurely drink
by yourself or a lavish get-together.
Available from Chronicle Books
for ` 1,088
Yes, Chef A
Memoir by Marcus
Samuelsson
with Veronica
Chambers
This memoir-style
book chronicles
popular chef Marcus Samuelssons
life story from his grandmothers
kitchen to his arrival as a chef in
New York. An orphan from Ethiopia
who was adopted by Swedish
parents in NYC, he reminisces
about his childhood, lending a whiff
of nostalgia to the narrative. This
account of a modest celebrity chef
is a quick read and is accompanied
by sepia-tinted photographs right
from his childhood to his days as
guest chef at the White House.
Available from Random House
for ` 918
You can buy this months
books online at flipkart.com
and landmarkonthenet.com.

BBC GoodFood 23

Advertising feature
1

Host like a pro


Good Food Indias live masterclass with Chef Nimish Bhatia of The Lalit
showcased lip-smacking party dishes that are simple yet impressive
Words PRIYANKA HOSANGADI Photographs INDIA EVENTS

t was a Saturday well spent for over 40 food


lovers who got a chance to meet renowned
chef Nimish Bhatia at Good Food Indias
live masterclass at The Lalit in New Delhi. The
event was held in May at Baluchi restaurant in
association with Nestle Milkmaid, Shakti Bhog
basmati rice and Goldiee spices. Chef Bhatia
demonstrated six delicious dishes that the
participants could easily make at home. He
made the session more interactive by asking
volunteers to help him prepare the dishes.
Chef Bhatia began with Lettuce Wrappers,
an ideal heat buster. An enthusiastic
participant helped him assemble the crunchy
iceberg lettuce rolls that were stuffed with
cottage cheese, red, yellow and green peppers,
orange segments and coriander and drizzled
with a mixture of yoghurt, olive oil, honey,
salt and pepper. Chef Bhatia then proceeded
to help a volunteer prepare another batch of
rolls, giving her suggestions on how she could
improve the dish.
Next he demonstrated Channe ke Kebab
with Caramelised Walnuts and Coriander Root
Relish. The patties were made of mashed
chickpeas mixed with various spices and
chopped coriander, ginger, green chillies,
toasted garlic, onions and caramelised
24 BBC GoodFood

walnuts. What made the kebabs interesting


were the different textures and the stufng
of hung curd and browned garlic. They were
served with a relish made of garlic, coriander
roots, green chillies and lemon juice.
Chef Bhatias third recipe, Jhinge ki
Chappali, which has its origins in Persia, is
among the most popular dishes at Baluchi.
He mixed coarsely chopped prawns with
lemon juice, rock salt, ginger, garlic, coriander,
green chillies, cumin seeds and various
Goldiee spices including zaatar, amchoor,
mace and yellow chilli powder. A little egg
was added as a binding agent. The mixture
was then shaped into patties and a prawn tail
inserted into it. After ash grilling the kebabs
on the tawa, Chef Bhatia served them with a
creamy radish relish.
Next followed the Trio Mushroom Ravioli
with morels, button and porcini mushrooms.
Chef Bhatia quipped that women would
nd this dish interesting since morels have
anti-ageing properties. The ravioli was stuffed
with a mixture of chopped mushrooms
sauted with garlic, onions, celery, leeks
and cream. The cooked pasta was then
tossed in chopped onions, garlic and olive oil.
What set this dish apart was the hot mango

JULY 2013

10

11

1. Chef Nimish Bhatia introduces the session


2. A volunteer helps Chef Bhatia make Channe ke
Kebab 3. Participants note down recipes 4. Channe ke
Kebab with Caramelised Walnuts and Coriander Root
Relish 5. Participants taste the Channe ke Kebab
6. Participants listen attentively 7. A participant cooks
Jhinge ki Chappali 8. Lettuce Wrappers or iceberg
lettuce rolls 9. Participants try the Trio Mushroom
Ravioli with hot mango relish 10. Chef Bhatia with the
Worldwide Media team 11. Chef Bhatia adds rice to the
Nazuk Murgh Kofte ki Biryani 12. Chef gives some tips
on cooking biryani 13. Jhinge ki Chappali with creamy
radish relish 14. Chicken koftas with kaala masala

8
12

13

14

JULY 2013

relish, which Chef Bhatia said was similar to


a Mexican salsa verde, but made with ripe
mangoes instead of green tomatoes.
After a quick lunch break, the participants
assembled to try out the Nazuk Murgh Kofte ki
Biryani. Chicken koftas made with mince and
kaala masala or blackened spices were cooked
along with Shakti Bhog basmati rice. While
preparing the dish, Chef Bhatia explained
m cooking originated in
how the concept of dum
Lucknow. He also described the various kinds
of biryani that are found throughout India.
The masterclass ended on a sweet note
with Aam Ras ki Rabadi aur Churi, a delicious
dessert that can be made in a jiffy. Flour was
kneaded with ghee, salt and sugar and then
roasted to make the churi. The rabadi was
made by heating mango puree and Milkmaid.
This was layered with crushed churi in a glass
and then chilled. This was the most popular dish
that participants rushed to try!
The lively event saw Chef Bhatia banter
with the crowd and give them useful tips
like how to make pasta at home or why
lemon juice is usually added to seafood.
Several children were also spotted among
the participants,
p
indicating how cooking
iss increasingly becoming popular with
tthe little ones. The event ended with
participants going home with goodie
p
bags from Goldiee.
b
BBC GoodFood 25

eat in

52 pages of inspiring ideas, from jamun and shehtoot treats to


hearty meatballs and classic Kayastha cooking

IN THIS ISSUE

7Seven meals for ` 700, p 58


7Quick lunchbox recipes, p 66
7Ready in 30-minute dishes, p 68
7Cooking with jamun and shehtoot, p 75
7New takes on French fries, p 84
7Comforting meatballs, p 90
7Classics from the Kayastha kitchen, p 98
7Make the most of cherries, p 106

Classic Swedish
meatballs p 94
BBC GoodFood 27

meals
for `700
A weeks worth of
sstylish, great-value
m
meals

R
Recipes
JANINE RATCLIFFE
Photographs LARA HOLMES
P

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28 BBC GoodFood

MONDAY
Spinach rarebit melts
Serves 1 Q15 minutes Q EASY
spinach 50g, chopped
spring onion 1, nely chopped
butter 1 tbsp
wholegrain mustard 1/2 tsp (try
Tracklements available at gourmet
stores)
cheddar 50g, grated
egg 1/2, beaten
salt and pepperr to season
crusty bread 2 slices, toasted
QWilt the spinach and spring onion
in butter, then take off the heat and
stir in the mustard, cheddar and egg.
Season well, then spoon onto the
toast. Grill until bubbling and golden.
Q PER SERVING 431 kcals, protein
23g, carbs 26.5g, fat 24g, sat fat
13.2g, fibre 3g, salt 2.3g

gr

grou
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nut mi
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TUESDAY
Bhee pakodas

ca

ash
shew
ewnu
ew
wnu
nuts
ts
s

Serves 1 Q30 minutes Q EASY

turm
turmer
tu
rm
mer
eric
ic
c

3
`69
L FOR

TOTA
*
7 MEALS

Recipe AMIT PAMNANI


lotus stem (bhee) 100g, washed
and peeled
fresh coriander a bunch, nely
chopped
ginger-garlic paste 1 tsp
salt to taste
dried mango powder (amchoor)
1/2 tsp

garam masala 1/2 tsp


chilli powderr 1 1/2 tsp
besan 30g
oil 50ml
QWash and peel the lotus stem and
cut into 1-inch pieces. Place them along
with water in a pressure cooker.
QBoil the lotus stem until tender,
approximately 3-4 whistles. Drain and
cool. Meanwhile, mix the chopped
coriander with ginger-garlic paste, salt,
amchoor, garam masala and 1/2 tsp
chilli powder. Pound using a mortar
and pestle and make into a coarse
paste.
QSlice the cooled lotus stem into
halves, lengthwise. Apply the coriander
paste to the lotus stem halves and join
together like a sandwich.
QCombine the besan, salt, 1 tsp chilli
powder and water to make a thick
batter. Coat the stuffed lotus stem
pieces with the batter. Deep fry in hot
oil until the batter is set. Remove from
oil and cool. Flatten each lotus stem
between the palms of your hands.
QDeep fry the pakodas in hot oil until
golden and crispy. Serve hot.
Q PER SERVING 627.75 kcals, protein
7.98g, carbs 32.83g, fat 52.15g, sat fat
3.2g, fibre 7.75g, salt 0.4g
*Recipe costings are based on the
amounts of ingredients used, eg 125g
butter is costed at half the price of a 250g
pack. The store cupboard ingredients are
not included in the costing; we assume
that these are consumed daily and do not
need to be specially purchased.
JULY 2013

Styling LUIS PERAL Food styling SAL HENLEY

Ph t
Photograph
h DAVID MUNNS

INGREDIENTS
CHECKLIST

Photograph PRATEEKSH MEHRA

eat in
everyday

THURSDAY
Chargrilled aubergine
and pepperonata salad
Serves 1 Q30 minutes Q EASY
Pepperonata is a Mediterranean pepper
stew that can also make a base for a
lovely salad.

WEDNESDAY
Pea and pancetta
carbonara
Serves 1 Q20 minutes Q EASY
linguine 75g (try Delverde available at
gourmet stores)
green peas 50g
pancetta 35g, diced (try Can Calet
available at gourmet stores)
garlic clove 1, crushed
egg yolk 1
crme frache 2 1/2 tbsp (try President
available at gourmet stores)
parmesan 15g, nely grated
salt and black pepper to season
QCook the linguine following the pack
instructions, adding the peas for the

last 2 minutes of cooking. Cook the


pancetta in a frying pan until golden.
Add the garlic and cook for a couple
of minutes. Whisk the egg and crme
frache with most of the parmesan.
QDrain the pasta and peas, keeping
2-3 tbsp of the cooking water. Tip the
pasta, peas and cooking water into the
pancetta pan and toss together over
the heat. Take off the heat then stir
through the crme frache mix. Season
with black pepper and serve with the
rest of the parmesan.
Q PER SERVING 636 kcals, protein
25.1g, carbs 57.4g, fat 33.7g, sat fat 17g,
fibre 4.8g, salt 1.4g
MORE IDEAS: Use broad beans along
with the green peas for an added dose
of veggies.

aubergine 1/2, thinly sliced lengthways


olive oil 1 tbsp
salt and pepper to season
roasted red peppers from a jar
2 pieces, roughly torn (try Jamie Oliver
available at gourmet stores)
capers 1 tsp, rinsed and drained (try
Lindsay available at gourmet stores)
red onion 1/2, nely chopped
rocket a handful
THE SALAD DRESSING
red wine vinegar 1 tbsp whisked with
1 1/2 tbsp olive oil
QBrush the aubergine slices with olive
oil and season. Heat a griddle to hot,
then cook the aubergines on both sides
until grill marked, softened and cooked
through.
QMake the dressing by combining the
vinegar and olive oil together.
QToss the peppers, capers, onion
and dressing together. Arrange the
aubergine on a plate and top with
the peppers. Scatter over the rocket to
nish.
Q PER SERVING 253 kcals, protein 4.7g,
carbs 11.8g, fat 20.8g, sat fat 3g, fibre
6.7g, salt 0.3g
MORE IDEAS: Add some grilled
halloumi for a heartier salad.

eat in
everyday

SATURDAY
Courgette
g
and rosemary
pizza
Serves 1 Q30 minutes Q EASY
pizza base 1
mascarpone 2 tbsp (try Zanetti
available at gourmet stores)
garlic clove 1/2, crushed
salt and pepperr to season
courgette 1, cut into long ribbons
rosemary 1 tsp, chopped
olive oil 2 tbsp

VEG IT
Substitute
aubergine for
chicken to make
a vegetarian
curry

FRIDAY
Chicken with coconut
and cashews
Serves 1 Q45 minutes Q EASY
oil 1 tbsp
cumin seeds 1/2 tsp
onion 1, halved and thinly sliced
salt a pinch
ginger 1/2 tbsp, nely grated
garlic clove 1, crushed
red chilli 1, sliced
ground coriander 1/2 tsp
turmeric 1/2 tsp
chicken thigh fillets 2 skinless,
quartered
coconut milk 90ml
cashewnuts a heaped tbsp
chicken or vegetable stock 75ml
basmati rice cooked, to serve
32 BBC GoodFood

QHeat the oil in a frying pan. Add


the cumin seeds and cook for a few
minutes until they crackle. Add the
onion and a pinch of salt and fry until
softened. Add the ginger, garlic, chillies
and the rest of the spices and cook for
a couple of minutes. Stir in the chicken
and turn over in the spices and onion
until white.
QWhizz the coconut milk and cashews
in a blender or food processor. Pour
into the pan with the stock. Simmer for
15 minutes then stir in the coriander
and serve with rice.
Q PER SERVING 490 kcals, protein 35g,
carbs 12.1g, fat 34.2g, sat fat 16.1g, fibre
3g, salt 0.8g

QHeat the oven to 200C. Put the


pizza base on a heavy baking sheet.
Beat the mascarpone to soften it then
beat in the garlic and lots of seasoning.
Spread over the pizza base leaving a
small border. Toss the courgette and
rosemary in olive oil, season then
arrange over the base.
QBake for 10-12 minutes until golden,
puffed and cooked through.
Q PER SERVING 629 kcals, protein
18.9g, carbs 68.6g, fat 30.8g, sat fat
11.9g, fibre 3.9g, salt 2g
MORE IDEAS: Add some shredded,
cooked ham or salami for a heartier
pizza.

The flavours of the recipe come


together beautifully, in a very
subtle and elegant way. It tastes
very different from the traditional
pizza but in a good way. The
addition of mascarpone gives
the pizza a whole new dimension
and is definitely worth a try. I
made a thin crust pizza with
a dash of additional oregano,
chilli and basil seasoning. The
outcome totally justified the effort.
However, I would love to beat in a
bit of chilli tomato sauce into the
mascarpone for a spicy twist.
Maaninee Reddy
y is a student
from Hyderabad who is passionate
about food.

JULY 2013

eat in
everyday

eat in
everyday

SUNDAY
Harissa lamb stew
with orzo
Serves 1 Q1 hour 15 minutes Q EASY
oil 2 tbsp, for frying
boneless lamb 150g, cut into chunks
onion 1/2, nely sliced
harissa 1 tbsp (try Al Fez available at
gourmet stores)
tomatoes 200g, chopped
lamb stock 100ml
chickpeas 100g
orzo or rice 50g (try Barilla available
at gourmet stores)
mint a small bunch, chopped
parsley a small bunch, chopped
spring onions 2, chopped
lemon 1/2, juiced and zested
salt and pepper to season
QHeat the oil in a pan and brown the
lamb all over. Scoop out then add the
onions and cook until softened and
browned. Add back the lamb with the
harissa, tomatoes and stock and bring
to a simmer. Cook for 45 minutes with
a lid on then add the chickpeas and
cook for 15 minutes with lid off.
QCook the orzo following the pack
instructions then drain and toss with
most of the herbs, spring onion, lemon
and some seasoning. Serve the stew
with the orzo and scatter the rest of
the herbs on top.
Q PER SERVING 688 kcals, protein
48.3g, carbs 58.5g, fat 27.9g, sat fat
10.2g, fibre 8.5g, salt 1g
MORE IDEAS: Serve the stew with
mashed sweet potato instead of
the orzo.

FOR A LIST
OF STORES
THAT STOCK
GOURMET
INGREDIENTS,
TURN TO P 153

eat in
lunchbox

Its lunchtime!

Give packed lunches a makeover with these snappy recipes


Photograph STUART OVENDEN

Carrot and hummus


rolls
Serves 2 Q10 minutes QEASY
Recipe ROSIE REYNOLDS
Spread 200g hummus between
4 tortilla wraps. Coarsely grate
4 carrots and scatter on top of the
hummus, nishing each wrap with
2 handfuls of rocket leaves and some
seasoning. Roll up and pack.
Q PER SERVING 355 kcals, protein 10g,
carbs 37g, fat 19g, sat fat 3g, fibre 6g,
sugar 8g, salt 1.09g

hummus mixture into the toasted pitas,


along with 1 julienned red bell pepper
and 1 julienned cucumber.
Q PER SERVING 295 kcals, protein 13g,
carbs 64g, fat 12g, sat fat 2.8g, fibre 4g,
sugar 6g, salt 2.03g

Caesar salad with


crispy chicken

parmesan and 1 crushed garlic clove,


then season well. When ready to eat,
add 4 sliced, cooked chicken thighs,
40g croutons and 8 torn lettuce
leaves. Mix well and sprinkle with extra
parmesan, if you like.
Q PER SERVING 368 kcals, protein 28g,
carbs 21g, fat 19g, sat fat 5g, fibre 2g,
sugar 5g, salt 1.9g

Serves 2 Q15 minutes QEASY


In a large bowl, mix 80g mayonnaise,
the juice of 1 lemon, 1 tbsp
worcestershire sauce, 40g grated

Chicken soba noodles


Serves 2 Q15 minutes QEASY
Cook 170g soba noodles, drain well,
then toss with 1 tbsp of sesame oil.
Finely slice 15 snow peas, cut
2 carrots into matchsticks and deseed
and slice 1 red chilli. Add to the noodles
with 2 tbsp toasted sesame seeds
and 2 handfuls of shredded and
cooked chicken. Pack with a small
portion of soy sauce.
Q PER SERVING 373 kcals, protein 16g,
carbs 29g, fat 14.9g, sat fat 4g, fibre
3.4g, sugar 9g, salt 2g

Minted hummus
pockets
Serves 2 Q5 minutes QEASY

Pour 240g hummus into a small bowl.


Finely slice a few basil leaves, then
stir into the hummus. Toast 4 pita
breads, then split them in half. Stuff the

Carrot and hummus rolls

Styling JO HARRIS Food styling KATE CALDER

Recipe JANE HORNBY

Ready
in 30
Hearty and satisfying, these speedy meals
are ideal for weeknights

Lemon and dill sea bass


with ciabatta, tomato
and olive salad
Serves 2 Q30 minutes QEASY

dill a handful, roughly chopped


lemon 1, zested and juiced
olive oil 2 tbsp
salt and pepper to season
sea bass 2 llets, skin on
ciabatta 2 thick slices
tomatoes 2 large, sliced
black olives a handful, pitted and
halved (try Fragata available at
gourmet stores)
basil a handful

chop into bite-size pieces. Toss with


the tomato, olives and basil. Divide the
salad between 2 plates.
QHeat another tbsp of oil in a nonstick frying pan over a high heat. Wipe
the marinade off the sh and then
add to the pan, skin side down. Cook
for 3 minutes or until the skin crisps
up. Turn the heat down a little and
ip the sh over for another minute
of cooking or until cooked through.
Put a llet on each plate and pour the
remaining dressing over the sh and
the salad and serve.
QPER SERVING 387 kcals, protein
27.8g, carbs 25.3g, fat 19.4g, sat fat
2.3g, fibre 4.8g, salt 1.2g

Recipe KATE CALDER Photograph LARA HOLMES

QMix the dill, lemon zest and juice,


1 tbsp of oil and some seasoning in a
small bowl. Pour half over the sh and
leave to marinate for 10 minutes.
QToast the ciabatta, then roughly

Recipe KATE CALDER Photograph LARA HOLMES

eat in
everyday

Hot and sour aubergine


with sticky rice
(recipe overleaf)
BBC GoodFood 37

Hot and sour aubergine


with sticky rice
Serves 2 Q30 minutes QEASY

sushi rice 150g (try Blue Dragon


available at gourmet stores)
onion 1, halved and sliced
aubergine 1, chopped into bite-sized
pieces
vegetable oil 1 tbsp
golden caster sugar 2 tbsp (try Tate
& Lyle available at gourmet stores)
red wine vinegar 2 tbsp
soy sauce 2 tsp + extra to serve
cornflour 2 tsp
French beans 100g, halved
red chilli 1, shredded + extra to serve
QCook the rice following packet
instructions. Fry the onion and
aubergine in the oil in a wide shallow
pan with a lid on until golden and
softened. Stir every few minutes.
QMix the sugar and vinegar in a
small bowl. Add the soy sauce and
stir until the sugar dissolves. Add
the cornour and stir until it has
dissolved.
QAdd the beans and red chilli to
the pan and cook for 4 minutes with
the lid on. Add the sweet and sour
mix, stir and continue cooking for
a further 2 minutes with the lid on.
Serve with the rice and extra soy and
chillies on the side.
QPER SERVING 515 kcals, protein
10.8g, carbs 92.6g, fat 8.3g, sat fat 1g,
fibre 10g, salt 1g

Smoked salmon and


asparagus fettuccine
fettuccine 200g (try Barilla available
at gourmet stores)
asparagus 100g, halved
olive oil 2 tbsp
garlic clove 1, sliced
crme frache or hung curd 6 tbsp
(try President available at gourmet
stores)
lemon 1, zested + a squeeze of juice
salt and pepper to taste
smoked salmon 160g, broken into
rough pieces
38 BBC GoodFood

JULY 2013

Photograph LARA HOLMES

Serves 2 Q20 minutes QEASY

eat in
everyday
QCook the pasta following packet
instructions. Add the asparagus
3 minutes before the end of the pasta
cooking time.
QHeat the oil in a wide, shallow nonstick pan and gently fry the garlic until
softened.
QDrain the pasta and asparagus
and tip into the garlic pan with
the crme frache, lemon zest and
lots of seasoning. Toss everything
together then add the salmon and
toss gently. Serve with a squeeze of
lemon juice.
QPER SERVING 513 kcals, protein
34.9g, carbs 55.4g, fat 16.8g, sat fat 7g,
fibre 1.2g, salt 3.6g

Pumpkin salad with soy


balsamic dressing
Serves 4 Q25 minutes QEASY

Recipe JENNIFER JOYCE Photograph SIMON WHEELER Styling PENNY MARKHAM Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE

pumpkin 1kg, peeled and cut into 2cm


cubes
olive oil 1 tbsp
salt and pepper to season
puy lentils (masoor dal) 100g
arugula leaves 100g
sesame seeds 1 tsp, toasted
spring onions 6, sliced
THE SOY DRESSING
olive oil 5 tbsp
balsamic vinegar 3 tbsp
soy sauce 1 tbsp
red chilli 1, seeded and chopped
garlic clove 1, nely chopped
honey 1 tsp
QHeat the oven to 200C. Put the
pumpkin on a baking sheet, drizzle
with olive oil and season. Roast for 20
minutes or until tender, shaking the
tray a couple of times to keep it from
sticking. Simmer the lentils for about
15 minutes or until al dente, then
drain. Whisk together the dressing
ingredients. Put the arugula leaves
in a serving bowl and arrange the
lentils and pumpkin on top. Pour the
dressing over and top with sesame
seeds and spring onions.
QPER SERVING 342 kcals, protein
10.3g, carbs 37.1g, fat 17.9g, sat fat 2.4g,
fibre 7g, salt 0.72g
MAY 2013

BBC GoodFood 39

Chargrilled
g
lamb with
lentils, broad beans
and feta
Serves 2 Q30 minutes QEASY

lamb chops 4 large


olive oil 2 tbsp + extra for greasing
salt and pepperr to season
puy lentils (masoor dal) 100g
broad beans (papdi) orr edamame
beans 100g
shallots 4, thinly sliced
mint a handful, chopped
parsley a handful, chopped
feta 50g, crumbled (try Apetina
available at gourmet stores)
red wine vinegar 2 tbsp

Apple
pp and g
goats cheese
salad with warm g
dressing
Serves 4 Q25 minutes QEASY

mixed salad leaves (arugula,


chicory, iceberg lettuce, lollo rosso)
500g
apple 1
goats cheese 100g, sliced
walnuts 50g, toasted and chopped
THE FIG DRESSING
dried figs 4
balsamic vinegar 75ml
extra virgin olive oil 2 tbsp
salt and pepperr to season
40 BBC GoodFood

QTo make the dressing, simmer


the gs in boiling water in a small
saucepan for 10 minutes. Drain, chop
and put back in the saucepan with
the balsamic vinegar, olive oil and
seasoning. Cook for a further
5 minutes until syrupy and then cool
slightly.
QArrange all the leaves on individual
plates or one big platter. Thinly slice
the apple without coring. Layer a few
slices of apple with the goats cheese
on each salad. Sprinkle with the
walnuts and pour the dressing over.
QPER SERVING 298 kcals, protein 9g,
carbs 18.6g, fat 21.3g, sat fat 6.3g, fibre
3.3g, salt 0.5g

A surprising Sunday dinner


became an instant hit and a family
favourite. Since fresh broad beans
were not in season, I substituted
them with peas. The sweetness of
the lentils and the creaminess of
the feta cheese made for a lovely
combination and enhanced the
simplicity of the lamb. The dish
was uncomplicated and ready in
30 minutes. Its a sensational dish
that rescues you when you have
unexpected guests.
Sharmishtha Dey Yadav
v is a
homemaker and food blogger
who enjoys playing around with
traditional ingredients and recipes.
She lives in Thane.

JULY 2013

Recipe JENNIFER JOYCE Photograph SIMON WHEELER Styling PENNY MARKHAM Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE

QHeat a griddle or pan to smoking


hot. Rub the lamb chops with oil and
then season. Griddle for 10 minutes
on each side or until cooked to your
liking. Meanwhile, cook the lentils.
Q Put the broad beans in a sieve in
the sink and pour over a full kettle
of boiling water. Let them cool and
then pod, discarding the skins. Boil for
about 2 minutes and then drain.
QMix the lentils and broad beans with
the shallot, mint, parsley, feta, 2 tbsp
of oil, the red wine vinegar and some
seasoning. Serve with the lamb.
QPER SERVING 805 kcals, protein
43.6g, carbs 27.3g, fat 57.5g, sat fat
25.6g, fibre 10.4g, salt 2g

eat in
everyday

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Recipe KATE CALDER Photograph LARA HOLMES

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Quick tomato soup with


cheesy garlic dippers
Serves 2 Q25 minutes QEASY

THE DIPPERS
ciabatta roll 1 medium, halved
garlic clove 1, halved
salt and pepper to season
mozzarella 125g, shredded

Warm Mexican rice


salad with kidney beans
and avocado salsa
Serves 2 Q30 minutes QEASY

basmati rice 75g


garlic cloves 2, chopped
chipotle paste or harissa 1 tbsp (try
La Costena available at gourmet
stores)
kidney beans (rajma) 400g, boiled
and drained
vinegar 2 tbsp
honey 1 tbsp
salt and pepper to season
avocado 1 small, diced
red onion 1/2, sliced
jalapeos 1 tbsp, roughly chopped (try
Lindsay available at gourmet stores)
lime 1, juiced
fresh coriander leaves a small
handful

QCook the garlic with the chipotle


paste for a couple of minutes in a
non-stick pan. Add the beans, vinegar,
honey and some seasoning. Cook for
5 minutes until the avours come
together.
QMix the avocado, red onion,
jalapeos and lime juice together.
QDivide the rice between two plates,
spoon the beans over and top with
the salsa. Scatter over a few coriander
leaves before serving.
QPER SERVING 378 kcals, protein 13g,
carbs 58g, fat 12g, sat fat 2g, fibre 9g,
sugar 10g, salt 0.92g

QPut the tomatoes, sugar, stock and


sauces into a medium pan and season.
Simmer for 5-10 minutes. Stir in the
mascarpone and blend to a smooth
soup. Return to the pan and keep
warm while you make the dippers.
QHeat the grill to high and toast
the ciabatta until golden. Rub with
the garlic, season, then top with the
cheese and grill until melted. Slice
into ngers and serve with the soup,
sprinkled with basil leaves.
QPER SERVING 414 kcals, protein 19g,
carbs 38g, fat 22g, sat fat 13g, fibre 3g,
sugar 15g, salt 2.13g

Recipe ROSIE REYNOLDS Photograph WILL HEAP

Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE Photograph MYLES NEW Styling JANINE RATCLIFFE Food styling SONJA EDRIDGE

cherry tomatoes 400g


caster sugar 1 tbsp (try Tate & Lyle
available at gourmet stores)
vegetable stock 100ml
tabasco and worcestershire sauce a
dash each
salt and pepper to season
mascarpone 2 tbsp
basil leaves a handful, torn (optional)

QCook the basmati rice until tender,


then drain and keep warm in a
covered pot.
42 BBC GoodFood

JULY 2013

eat in
in season

Jamun
and
Shehtoot
Make the most of these pretty-in-purple Indian
berries bursting with colour and flavour
Recipes KAINAZ CONTRACTOR Photographs PRATEEKSH
MEHRA Prop Courtesy SANCTUM, LE MILL and FREEDOM TREE

Jamun and shehtoot


(Indian mulberries) are
quintessential Indian
berries. Seldom eaten in any
other form except whole,
I have tried to elevate
these vibrant-hued local
beauties by exploring their
considerable potential
in desserts as well as
savoury dishes.
-Kainaz Contractor,
Assistant Food Editor

minutes. Pat the sh dry with a kitchen


towel. Heat the remaining oil in a pan
and pan sear the sh; 5 minutes on
each side depending on the thickness
of the llet.
QIn the meantime, make the sauce
for the sh. In a small pan, add the
jamun butter and garlic. Once it melts
on a slow ame and the garlic begins
to cook, add the wine and lemon juice.
Allow this to bubble for 2 minutes.
QRemove the sh from the pan. Pour
the sauce over and serve with the
sauted vegetables.
QPER SERVING 642.5 kcals, protein
46.28g, carbs 4.4g, fat 47.63g, sat fat
18.6g, fibre 0.2g, salt 0.3g

Jamun granita
Serves 6 Q15 minutes + churning and
freezing Q EASY
Heres a spin on the classic kala khatta
golas weve all grown up eating. The
cooked jamun sobers down the fruits
astringency while the kala namak
adds a salty tang to this stunning deep
purple granita.
ripe jamun 3 dozen
caster sugar 8 tbsp
kala namak 1 1/2 tbsp
lime juice 1 1/2 tbsp
chilled water 1 1/4 cup

Fish with jamun and dill


butter
Serves 4 Q20 minutes Q EASY
This jamun butter is absolutely
addictive yet ridiculously easy to make.
The jamun and dill combo adds an
uplifting zing to the white wine sauce,
which goes beautifully with the panseared fish. Lemon butter sauce will
never be the same again.
ripe jamun 1 1/2 dozen
butter 100g, softened
dill 2 tsp, chopped
olive oil 6 tbsp
salt and pepper to season
rawas 4 llets, 250g each
44 BBC GoodFood

garlic cloves 4, sliced


white wine 6 tbsp
lemon 1, juiced
French beans and mushrooms to
serve, sauted
QTake the jamuns and press each one
down with your palm until the seed
pops out and the esh remains. Very
nely chop the jamun. Mix the softened
butter with a spoon until it attains a
smooth, paste-like consistency. Mix this
with the jamun and dill. Keep aside if
using immediately or refrigerate for
later use.
QMix 2 tbsp olive oil, salt and pepper.
Take each rawas llet and smear with
the oil mix. Leave to marinate for 15

REALLY
REALLY
QUICK

QTake each jamun and press it down


with your palm until the seed pops
out and the esh remains. Cook the
jamun esh in a pan for 5-7 minutes.
The jamun will reduce and let out some
natural water. Cooking the fruit helps in
removing its astringency.
QCool the cooked jamun. Transfer
to a mixer-blender and whizz until
you get a rough pure. If you enjoy
the astringency of jamun you could
even blend them raw with the sugar.
Transfer the jamun into a water jug,
add the remaining ingredients and stir.
You can add more black salt if you like.
You may feel that the mix is too sweet
but the sugar prevents the sorbet
from turning into a block of ice. The
sweetness will also reduce once frozen.
Chill for an hour.
JULY 2013

eat in
in season

If you dont have


an ice cream maker, use
a fork to scrape the frozen
mix and return to the freezer.
Continue to do this every hour
for the next 4 hours. Scoop and
serve. If the sorbet is too hard,
allow it to soften slightly at
room temperature
before scooping.

THE JAMUN SALSA


onion 1/2 small, very nely chopped
tomato 1/2, blanched, skin removed
and very nely chopped
jamun 12, deseeded and roughly
chopped
jalapeo 1 small, nely chopped
mint 1 tbsp, nely chopped
coriander 1 tbsp, nely chopped
lemon juice 1 tbsp
salt to taste
caster sugar 1 tsp
extra virgin olive oil 1 tsp

QTip the granita mix into the ice cream


maker and churn for 30 minutes. The
granita should be fairly soft. Freeze for
another 2 hours. Use a fork to scrape
the surface and bring the frozen edges
to the centre, scoop out and serve.
QPER SERVING 75.17 kcals, protein
0.13g, carbs 18.9g, fat 0.03g, sat fat
none, fibre none, salt 0.5g

Keema samosas with


jamun salsa
Makes 20 small samosas
Q40 minutes Q EASY
Try this quick canap idea, perfect for a
relaxed evening with family and friends.
46 BBC GoodFood

The jamun salsa offers a cooling and


flavour packed contrast to the fresh-offthe-fryer keema and jamun samosas.
jamun 2 dozen, roughly chopped
oil 2 tbsp + extra for deep frying
garlic cloves 6, sliced
onion 1 small, nely chopped
minced mutton, lamb or beef (keema)
250g
cumin powder 1 1/2 tsp
chilli powder 1 tsp
coriander powder 1 1/2 tsp
salt and pepper to taste
pine nuts 3 tbsp, toasted
samosa pattis 10 (try Switz available
at gourmet stores)

QTake each jamun and press it down


with your palm until the seed pops out
and the esh remains. Roughly chop
the jamun; the chunkier the better.
Keep aside.
QIn a pan, add the oil and garlic. Once
the oil starts to heat up and the garlic
sizzles, add the onions and let them
brown. Add the mince and cook until it
turns brown. Now add the spices and
cook for another 10 minutes until the
keema is cooked. Season to taste. Add
the pine nuts and jamun and cook for a
minute. Leave to cool.
QMix all the ingredients for the salsa
together and chill. Take each samosa
patti and place about 1 tsp of the
keema mix at the edge of the patti,
making sure to get 2-3 pieces of jamun
on the patti and fold into a triangle.
Seal the samosa with oil (or with a mix
of water and all-purpose our) to hold
the samosa together.
QFry the samosa until golden and
crisp and serve immediately with the
chilled jamun salsa.
QPER SERVING 279.25 kcals, protein
9.45g, carbs 13.73g, fat 20.79g, sat fat
3.35g, fibre 1.88g, salt 0.1g

Pork with mulberry


sauce
Serves 4 Q50 minutes + marinating
Q EASY
The combination of pork and mulberry
lives on in this slightly retro dish with
meltingly tender meat smothered in a
spicy and fruity sauce. All it needs is a
dollop of mash.
JULY 2013

eat in
in season

10 minutes. Shake the dressing off


the pork and pan fry for 8-10 minutes
on each side on a medium ame.
Keep the dressing aside. Remove the
tenderloin, place it on a plate and
leave to rest.
QIn the same pan, using all the
fatty juices of the pork, prepare the
mulberry sauce. Tip in the reserved
dressing and red wine.. Now add the
mulberries and season to taste. Let it
simmer for 10 minutes. Add the honey.
If the mulberries are sweet you could
avoid adding the honey altogether.
Add the cornour to thicken the
sauce. Cook for 5 more minutes.
QIn the meantime, prepare the
potatoes by mashing them with a
masher until smooth and lump free.
Add the remaining ingredients and
mix thoroughly until all the remaining
ingredients are evenly incorporated
in the mash. Now heat this up on the
stove or in the microwave.
QTo serve, slice the pork into
medallions and top with the sauce
along with a side of creamy mash
potatoes.
QPER SERVING 592.25 kcals, protein
30.08g, carbs 38.88g, fat 35.05g, sat
fat 8.28g, fibre 3.55g, salt 1.6g

Jamun cheesecake
Serves 6 Q60 minutes + refrigeration
Q EASY

pork tenderloin fillets 500g


garlic cloves 6, minced
birds eye chillies 2-3, nely chopped
soya sauce 4 tbsp
oil 3 tbsp + 3 tbsp for pan frying
ginger 1 tbsp, minced
star anise 2
salt 1/2 tsp
black pepper 1 tbsp

red wine 1/2 cup


honey 2 tbsp
cornflour 1 tsp

THE MULBERRY SAUCE


mulberries 2 cups

QMarinate the tenderloin with the rest


of the ingredients. Leave for about

48 BBC GoodFood

THE MASHED POTATOES


potatoes 350g, boiled
butter 2 tbsp, softened
cream or milk 4 tbsp
salt and pepper to taste

Blueberry cheesecake is so pass.


Youll be surprised at how beautifully
the flavour of jamun goes with the
mascarpone and cream cheese. For
a lighter cake, you could also use a
yoghurt base instead of the whipped
cream. We for one cant get enough of
the cheesecakes striking purple hue.
jamun 5 dozen + a handful extra for
garnish
caster sugar 3 tbsp, heaped
Mc Vities digestive biscuits 10
butter 50g, melted
cornflour powder 1 tsp
mascarpone cheese 400g (try
Impero available at gourmet stores)
cream cheese 100g (try Kraft
available at gourmet stores)
JULY 2013

eat in
in season

Mulberry panna cotta


(recipe overleaf)

whipping cream 100g


icing sugar 6 tbsp

add a sour contrast to this otherwise


sweet dessert.

QTake the jamuns and press each


one down with your palm until the
seed pops out and the esh remains.
Finely chop the esh. Cook this in a
pan with 2 tbsp sugar for 5-7 minutes.
The jamun will reduce and let out
some natural water. Cooking the jamun
helps in removing the fruits inherent
astringency. Place in a sieve and press
the juices out so that they drain in a
bowl. Leave aside to cool.
QIn the meantime, whizz together
the biscuits until they resemble ne
breadcrumbs. Pour the melted butter
in and whizz again. Press the biscuit
base into an 8 inch round spring form
pan with a detachable base. Spread
the cooled jamun esh evenly over the
base. Refrigerate.
QTo make the jamun glaze, take the
drained juices of the jamun and heat
it with the remaining sugar. Mix the
cornour powder with 1 tbsp of water
and add it to the jamun juices. You will
get a viscous glaze. Leave to cool.
QIn a bowl, whisk the whipping cream
with an electric whisk until light and
airy. Add the mascarpone and whisk
further until smooth. Now add the
cream cheese and icing sugar and
whisk again until light and uffy. Take
the biscuit and jamun base and top
with the cheese mix. Smoothen out
the top of the cake with a spatula.
Refrigerate for an hour.
QRemove the cheesecake from its
mould and spread an even layer of the
jamun glaze on top of the cheesecake
and decorate with jamun slices in the
middle of the cheesecake.
QPER SERVING 634.5 kcals, protein
6.72g, carbs 43.52g, fat 47.43g, sat fat
8g, fibre 0.5g, salt 0.1g

gelatine 2 1/2 tsp


warm water 6 tbsp
cream 500ml
caster sugar 7 tbsp
blueberries 1 cup
mulberries 3 cups

Mulberry panna cotta


Serves 4 Q30 minutes + refrigeration
Q EASY
Creamy panna cotta, plump mulberries
and glistening ruby red mulberry
compote make a drool-worthy dessert
with very little effort. The blueberries
50 BBC GoodFood

QIn a large bowl, mix the gelatine and


the water. Keep aside for 5 minutes. Oil
the panna cotta moulds with neutral
avoured oil. Take a pan, heat the
cream and 6 tbsp sugar until the sugar
melts. Add half the blueberries and the
mulberries. Lightly mash the berries.
Do not let the cream boil. Cool for 5
minutes. Add this warm mix to the
gelatine and stir until it dissolves. Cool.
QPour the mix into the moulds and
refrigerate for 4-5 hours until set. Take
1 cup mulberries and cook it with the
remaining sugar. Pure the mulberries
and pass through a sieve. Return
to the stove and add the remaining
mulberries and blueberries. Keep aside
to cool. Refrigerate.
QTo unmould the panna cotta, dip
the moulds in a bath of hot water for
2 seconds and place a plate on top.
Upturn the mould so that the plate is at
the bottom. Give it one rm shake and
unmould. Serve immediately with the
mulberry compote.
QPER SERVING 326.5 kcals, protein
9.1g, carbs 41.53g, fat 14.68g, sat fat
9.18g, fibre 2.68g, salt none

Mulberry pie
Serves 6 Q45 minutes + chilling and
baking QMODERATELY EASY
This simple pie is made to be shared.
The pucker-inducing sweetness of the
mulberries takes centre stage and
stands out as the star in this dessert.
Serve with ice cream or a dollop of
fresh cream.
all purpose flour (maida) 1 1/4 cup
butter 75g, chilled and cubed
salt a pinch
icing sugar 1/4 cup
iced water to bind

butter 1 tsp, softened


mulberries 2 cups
lemon 1, juiced
caster sugar 2 tbsp
cornflour 1 tsp, mixed with water
egg 1, whisked
QIn a bowl, mix together the our,
butter, salt and icing sugar until they
resemble breadcrumbs. Youll need to
break through the chilled butter cubes
with your ngers. Now add enough
chilled water to form a dry dough.
Make sure you add little water at a
time to ensure its not too wet. Knead
for around 5 minutes. Refrigerate the
dough for 30 minutes.
QPre-heat the oven to 160C. In a pan,
melt the butter and add the mulberries.
Cook for 5 minutes and add the sugar
and lemon juice. The mulberries will let
out some of their natural water. Add
the cornour mix. Let the mulberries
bubble for a bit until the sauce
thickens. Leave to cool.
QTake out the dough and divide it in
the ratio of 3:1. Roll out the bigger ball
of dough and use it to line an 8 inch pie
dish. Keep a little extra dough hanging
and crimp the edges along the rim of
the dish. Chill for 30 minutes; this will
prevent the dough from shrinking in
the pie dish. Blind bake for 20 minutes
at 160C. Remove beans and bake for
10 more minutes with an egg wash.
This will prevent the base from getting
soggy when you put the mulberry
lling.
QIn the meantime, roll out the other
ball of dough and cut into long strips.
Remove the pie from the oven Add the
mulberry mix and top the pie with the
strips. First place them horizontally and
then vertically along the surface of the
pie. Now take a butter knife and slice
off the dough hanging off the edges.
Crimp them along the edges so that
they dont hang loose. Brush with the
egg wash and bake at 180C for 20-25
minutes until golden brown.
QPER SERVING 400.5 kcals, protein
6.83g, carbs 56.53g, fat 17.15g, sat fat
10.45g, fibre 2.7g, salt 0.2g

JULY 2013

eat in
in season

eat in
modern veggie

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Photograph GARETH MORGANS

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eat in
modern veggie

Healthy fries
Serves 4 Q35 minutes Q EASY
These baked fries are half as calorific
but just as delicious as their deepfried cousins. Use this recipe as a
base to innovate with other dishes.
Poutine (see recipe on p 132) or chilli
fries perhaps?

Recipe
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potatoes 750g, peeled and sliced


into thick chips
plain flour (maida) 2 tbsp
sunflower oil 2 tbsp
salt to taste
QHeat the oven to 200C. Boil a
large pan of water, then add the
potatoes and boil for 2-3 minutes
until the outsides are just tender but
not too soft.
QDrain well, then tip onto a large
baking tray with the our, oil and
salt. Gently toss together until all the
potatoes are evenly coated and the
our is no longer dusty. Roast for 25
minutes, turning occasionally, until
the chips are golden and crisp. Serve
with tomato ketchup and mustard.
QPER SERVING 440 kcals, protein
8g, carbs 83g, fat 31g, sat fat 6g,
fibre 2g, sugar 1.8g, salt 4.1g

Baked skinny fries


(recipe overleaf)

Sweet potato fries

Cheesy chips

Serves 4 Q1 hour Q EASY

Serves 8 Q40 minutes Q EASY

These healthy fries make for great


party nibbles. Serve with a sharp blue
cheese dip for contrasting flavours.

A real guilty pleasure, these parmesantopped French fries with a creamy


cheese, mustard and chive dip will feed
a crowd in fine fashion.

Recipe DAVID ROOD Photograph DAVID MUNNS

sweet potatoes 700g, peeled


oil for deep frying
smoked paprika to garnish (try
Ahumado available at gourmet stores)
sea salt to garnish (try Roland
available at gourmet stores)

Baked skinny fries


Serves 4 Q40 minutes Q EASY
A simple side dish of homemade chips
isnt always a crime this version coats
the potatoes in spices too.
vegetable oil 1 tbsp
polenta 2 tsp (try Valsugana available
at gourmet stores)
paprika 1/2 tsp (try Keya available at
gourmet stores)
garlic clove 1/2, crushed
salt and pepperr to season
potatoes 2 large, cut into 1cm-thick
chips
QHeat the oven to 200C. Pour the oil
onto a baking tray and put in the oven
for 3 minutes. Mix the polenta, paprika
and garlic together and season. Toss
the chips in the mix, then tip onto
the tray. Shake well, then cook for 25
minutes, shaking halfway through, until
crisp and golden.
QPER SERVING 118 kcals, protein 3g,
carbs 20g, fat 3g, sat fat none, fibre 2g,
sugar 1g, salt 1.7g
54 BBC GoodFood

QCut the sweet potatoes lengthways


into thin 1/2cm chips. Put in iced water
for about 15 minutes, then drain and
pat dry with a kitchen towel.
QSet the deep fryer at 170C or heat
the oil in a saucepan no more than
1/3 full. Heat until a cube of bread
browns in a minute. If using an oven,
heat to 180C.
QDeep-fry the chips until golden
brown then drain on a kitchen towel,
sprinkle with salt and paprika and
serve.
QIf using an oven, put the sweet
potato chips on a baking tray, toss in
3 tbsp vegetable oil and roast until
golden. Finish as above.
QPER SERVING 310 kcals, protein 2.1g,
carbs 34.8g, fat 18g, sat fat 2.2g, fibre
5.6g, salt 0.4g

These cheesy chips were quite


pleasing and spot on. I substituted
mustard powder with dijon
mustard for a lighter flavour and
used homemade garlic salt, which
I made by adding garlic powder
to sea salt. The sea salt made the
fries crispier. The parmesan added
depth to the fries and the dip was
comfortingly cheesy and gooey.
I used fresh rosemary instead of
chives since I like the combination
better. If you want to satiate your
craving for cheesy fries in a jiffy,
then this recipe is your best bet.
Tarjani Bhatt is a recipe developer
who specialises in flavoured butter.
She lives in Mumbai.

frozen skinny French fries 700g (try


McCain available at gourmet stores)
parmesan cheese 25g, grated
garlic salt 1/2 tsp (try Roland available
at gourmet stores)
THE DIP
plain flour (maida) 25g
English mustard powder 1 tsp (try
Colemans available at gourmet stores)
milk 300ml
cheddar cheese 140g, grated
salt and pepperr to season
chives a few leaves, snipped
QTo make the dip, heat the our,
mustard powder and milk in a
saucepan and gently cook, whisking
constantly, until smooth. Carry on
bubbling and stirring until thickened.
Turn off the heat, stir in the cheese
until melted, then season to taste.
Scrape into a microwave-proof bowl
and put some cling-lm directly on the
surface.
QHeat the oven to 220C. Spread
the fries on 1-2 big baking trays and
cook for 10 minutes, then scatter over
the parmesan and garlic salt use
tongs to toss and coat all the chips
in the cheese, then carry on baking
for 5 minutes more until golden and
crisp. If the chips arent crispy enough,
increase the temperature to 240C for
a few minutes.
QGently reheat the dip in the
microwave until warm, stir in the chives
and serve with the hot chips.
QPER SERVING 361 kcals, protein 10g,
carbs 32g, fat 21g, sat fat 10g, fibre 3g,
sugar 3g, salt 1.4g

JULY 2013

Recipe SARAH COOK Photograph DAVID MUNNS Styling SUE ROWLANDS Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE

eat in
modern veggie

Parmesan potato skins


Serves 4 Q1 hour 25 minutes
Q EASY
Bake up crispy potato skins with
cayenne pepper, paprika and cheese
then serve with a dip for a movie night
nibble.
potatoes 4 large
olive oil 1 tbsp
cayenne pepper 1/2 tsp (try Keya
available at gourmet stores)
paprika 1/2 tsp (try Keya available at
gourmet stores)
salt 1/2 tsp
parmesan 2 tbsp, grated

Harissa sweet potato


wedges
Serves 4 Q35 minutes Q EASY
Sweet potato chips make a healthy,
high-fibre alternative to traditional
chips, but taste just as good (if not
better!)

REALLY
sweet potatoes 1kg, scrubbed R
REALLY
and cut into wedges
EASY
Y
harissa paste 1 tbsp (try Al Fez
available at gourmet stores)
soured cream and chives to serve

QHeat the oven to 200C. In a large


bowl, combine the wedges with the
harissa. Transfer to a baking tray and
cook for 25 minutes until the potatoes
are tender and crispy at the edges.
Serve with soured cream mixed with
snipped chives.
QPER SERVING 224 kcals, protein 3g,
carbs 54g, fat 1g, sat fat none, fibre 6g,
sugar 14g, salt 0.32g

Recipe ALLY BRIGHT Photograph DAVID MUNNS Styling VICTORIA ALLEN Food styling LIZZIE HARRIS

QHeat the oven to 180C. Bake the


potatoes for 50-60 minutes. Once
cooked, cool slightly before halving and
scraping out the middles, leaving about
1-cm of potato in the skins. Cut each
skin into 3 and toss on a baking sheet
with the olive oil, cayenne pepper,
paprika, salt and grated parmesan.
Bake for a further 10-15 minutes until
crisp and golden.
QPER SERVING 173 kcals, protein 5g,
carbs 22g, fat 5g, sat fat 2g, fibre 5g,
sugar 1g, salt 0.8g

eat in
modern veggie

Skinny carrot fries


Serves 2 Q40 minutes Q EASY
Want to eat healthier but cant give
up chips? Try these low-fat, crispy
baked carrots with tarragon.

Recipe EMILY KYDD Photograph LARA HOLMES Styling SUE ROWLANDS Food styling KATY GREENWOOD

carrots 500g
cornflour 1 tbsp
black pepper a pinch
vegetable oil 1 tbsp
salt to taste
fresh tarragon 1 tbsp, nely
chopped

QHeat the oven to 200C. Cut the


carrots into fries, about 1-cm thick,
and mix with the cornour and a little
black pepper. Toss with the vegetable
oil, spread in a single layer on a baking
tray lined with parchment, and bake
for 25-30 minutes, turning halfway.
Mix a little salt with tarragon and toss
through the cooked fries.
QPER SERVING 164 kcals, protein 2g,
carbs 25g, fat 6g, sat fat 1g, fibre 8g,
sugar 18g, salt 0.4g

eat in
weekend

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ball
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weekend

Nothing perks us up
quite like a bowlful
of hearty tomatodrunk meatballs with
spaghetti. But this
simple and inexpensive
dish is so versatile,
nearly every country
on the planet has a
spin on it. From the
fiery Thai beef minced
ball and Moroccan
lamb meatballs with
couscous and harissa
to our very own achari
meatballs with classic
Indian flavours, we
celebrate meatballs
from across the globe
with our simple yet
innovative recipes.
Vegetarians, take
heart, we have a veggie
meatball just for you!

Red Thai meatball curry


Serves 4 Q40 minutes Q EASY
Try this colourful and zingy meatball
curry bursting with Thai flavours. And
its a wonderful family-style dish too.
lean beef orr lamb mince 500g
red chillies 2, 1 chopped + 1 sliced
ginger a thumb-size piece, grated
egg 1
salt and pepper to season
sunflower oil 1 tbsp
Thai red curry paste 1-1 1/2 tbsp (try
Blue Elephant available at gourmet
stores)
coconut milk
k 400ml
bamboo shoots 225g (try Blue Dragon
available at gourmet stores)
French beans 125g, trimmed
lime 1, juiced + extra wedges to serve
JULY 2013

basil 20g
basmati rice or rice noodles to serve
QPut the mince into a large bowl with
the chopped chilli, ginger and egg, then
season generously. Mix well with your
hands, then shape into 20 meatballs.
They can be made and chilled up to a
day ahead.
QHeat the oil in a large non-stick
frying pan, then brown the meatballs
for 5 minutes. Tip onto a plate. Add the
curry paste, fry for 1 minute, then pour
in the coconut milk and half a can of

water. Bring back to the boil and stir to


make a smooth sauce.
QReturn the meatballs to the pan with
the bamboo shoots and beans. Simmer
for 5 minutes until the beans are just
tender and meatballs cooked through.
To serve, season the sauce with salt,
pepper and lime juice, then tear in the
basil leaves. Scatter with sliced chilli
and serve with rice or noodles and
more lime wedges for squeezing over.
QPER SERVING 371 kcals, protein 31g,
carbs 4g, fat 26g, sat fat 13g, fibre 2g,
sugar 3g, salt 0.79g
BBC GoodFood 59

water and the garlic and stir well. Add


the lamb, lemon juice, crushed spices,
egg and most of the mint. Season well.
Mix well, then shape into 16 balls. Chill
for 30 minutes.
QHeat the oil in a frying pan. Fry the
balls for 6-7 minutes, turning now and
then, until golden brown and cooked.
Keep warm. Put the couscous in a large
heatproof bowl, then rub in the butter,
harissa and lemon juice. Pour over
400ml boiling water, cover and leave
for around 10 minutes. Fluff up and
season. Shred the remaining mint, then
mix through. Serve with harissa and
yoghurt.
QPER SERVING 651 kcals, protein 33g,
carbs 50g, fat 37g, sat fat 16g, fibre
none, sugar 2g, salt 0.84g

Achari chicken meatball


wrap
Serves 4 Q30 minutes Q EASY
Recipe AMIT PAMNANI Photograph
PRATEEKSH MEHRA

Serves 4 Q55 minutes + chilling


Q EASY
This dish combines all the flavours of a
tagine in meatball form, with the kick of
harissa-spiced couscous and a cooling
dollop of yogurt.
cumin seeds 2 tsp
coriander seeds 2 tbsp
breadcrumbs 50g
garlic clove 1, crushed
lamb mince 500g
lemon 1, juiced
egg 1, lightly beaten
60 BBC GoodFood

mint 20g, chopped


sunflower oil 2-3 tbsp
yoghurt 150ml, to serve
THE COUSCOUS
couscous 300g (try Tipiak available at
gourmets stores)
butter 50g
harissa 2 tbsp, to serve (try Al Fez
available at gourmet stores)
lemon juice 1 tbsp
Q Heat a heavy-based pan over a low
heat. Add the spices to the pan then
toast for 2-3 minutes until fragrant.
Crush using a pestle and mortar. Set
aside.
QMix the breadcrumbs with 2 tbsp

THE ACHARI GRAVY


oil 1 tbsp
fenugreek (methi) seeds 1/2 tsp
mustard seeds 1/2 tsp
saunf 1/2 tsp
jeera 1/2 tsp
onion seeds 1/2 tsp
onions 2, chopped
ginger-garlic paste 1 tsp
turmeric 1 tsp
chilli powder 1 tsp
coriander powder 1 tsp
tomatoes 2, chopped
salt to taste
JULY 2013

Recipe JOHN TORODE Photograph DAVID MUNNS

Moroccan lamb
meatballs with harissa
and couscous

THE MEATBALLS
chicken mince 250g
breadcrumbs 3 tbsp
egg 1
ginger-garlic paste 1 tsp
chilli powder 1 tsp
coriander powder 1 tsp
turmeric powder 1 tsp
green chilli 1, chopped
coriander a handful, chopped
salt to taste
garam masala powder 2 tsp
oil to deep fry

eat in
weekend

Puttanesca meatballs

THE TOPPINGS
oil 1 tbsp
onions 2, thickly sliced
yoghurt 1/2 cup
salt to taste
mint a handful, chopped
jeera powder 1 tsp
chapatis or tortillas 4
lettuce a handful, shredded
cheese cube 1, grated

Classic Swedish
meatballs
Serves 4 Q35 minutes Q EASY
This delicately flavoured Swedish
meatball dish with dill is comforting
62 BBC GoodFood

This Italian dish uses rigatoni or penne


instead of thin, pasta-like spaghetti so
that it absorbs all the meaty sauce that
is flavoured with fennel. Using a mix of
beef and pork mince in this recipe gives
a juicier meatball.

on a rainy day. Serve with some warm


bread to soak up all the meaty juices.
lean pork mince 400g
egg 1, beaten
onion 1 small, nely chopped
fresh white breadcrumbs 85g
dill 1 tbsp, nely chopped + extra to
serve
salt and pepper to season
olive oil 1 tbsp
butter 1 tbsp
flour 2 tbsp
beef stock 400ml
QIn a bowl, mix the mince with the egg,
onion, breadcrumbs, dill and seasoning.
Form into small meatballs about the size
of walnuts you should get about 20.
QHeat the olive oil in a large non-stick
frying pan and brown the meatballs.
You may have to do this in 2 batches.
Remove from pan, melt the butter,
then sprinkle over the our and stir
well. Cook for about 2 minutes, then
slowly whisk in the stock. Keep whisking
until thick, then season and return the
meatballs to the pan and heat through.
Sprinkle with dill and serve with
cranberry jelly, greens and mash.
QPER SERVING 301 kcals, protein 26g,
carbs 22g, fat 13g, sat fat 4g, fibre 1g,
sugar 2g, salt 1.73g

beef mince 250g


pork mince 250g
onion 1, grated
parmesan 25g, nely grated
garlic cloves 3, 1 crushed + 2 nely
sliced
salt and pepper to season
olive oil 2 tbsp
chilli flakes a large pinch
fennel seeds 1/2 tsp
tomatoes 800g, chopped
red wine 1 glass (optional)
sugar 1 tsp
olives 10, halved (try Fragata available
at gourmet stores)
capers 1 tbsp (try Lindsay available at
gourmet stores)
rigatoni or penne pasta 400g, cooked
to serve (try Garofalo available at
gourmet stores)
QPut the beef and pork mince, onion,
parmesan and crushed garlic in a
bowl. Season well, then form into small
meatballs. Heat a tablespoon of olive
oil in a non-stick frying pan then cook
the meatballs until browned all over.
Scoop out of the pan.
QAdd another tablespoon of oil to the
pan, cook the sliced garlic for about
2 minutes then add the chilli akes and
fennel and cook for a minute. Tip in the
tomatoes and wine, if using, with the
sugar. Simmer for 10 minutes or until
thickened. Add back the meatballs with
the olives and capers and simmer for
another 10 minutes. Serve with the
pasta.
QPER SERVING 356 kcals, protein
29.8g, carbs 9.4g, fat 22.4g, sat fat
8.5g, fibre 3g, salt 0.95g

JULY 2013

Recipe SARAH COOK Photograph DAVID MUNNS Styling CYNTHIA INIONS Food styling SONJA EDRIDGE

QTo make the meatballs, mix all the


ingredients together except the oil to
form a homogenous mix. Divide the
mixture into small balls.
QHeat the oil in a wok. Fry the
meatballs on a medium heat till
golden brown. Keep aside.
QFor the achari gravy, heat oil in a
pan. Add the methi seeds, mustard
seeds, saunf, jeera and onion seeds.
Let them splutter, then add the
onions. Saut for 5-6 minutes until
light brown. Add the ginger-garlic
paste and saut for a minute. Add
turmeric, chilli powder and coriander
powder and cook for about
30 seconds. Add the chopped
tomatoes and cook for 10 minutes.
Season and keep aside.
QFor the topping, heat the oil in a
pan and saut the sliced onions until
caramelised. Keep aside. Whip the
yoghurt with salt, mint and jeera
powder.
QTo assemble, take a chapati or a
tortilla. Put some shredded lettuce in
the centre. Place caramelised onions
on top of the lettuce. Arrange the
meatballs on top of the onions. Pour
the gravy on top of the meatballs.
QTop with grated cheese and drizzle
the mint yoghurt. Roll tightly and
serve immediately, wrapped in foil or
secured with toothpicks.
QPER SERVING 422.75 kcals, protein
21.75g, carbs 27.43g, fat 24.55g, sat fat
1.43g, fibre 5.23g, salt 0.4g

Serves 4 Q45 minutes Q EASY

Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE Photograph GARETH MORGANS Styling CYNTHIA INIONS Food styling SONJA EDRIDGE

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Prop courtesy FREEDOM TREE

green chillies 2, slit lengthwise


soya sauce 1 tbsp
ketchup 1 tbsp
vinegar 1 tsp
chilli sauce 1 tbsp
water 1 tbsp
spring onion greens 1 tbsp, chopped
black pepper a pinch

Chilli and garlic soya


meatballs
Serves 4 Q30 minutes Q EASY
Recipe AMIT PAMNANI Photograph
PRATEEKSH MEHRA
oil 300ml, for deep frying + 2 tbsp extra
THE MEATBALLS
soya mince 1/2 cup (try Nutrela
available at gourmet stores)
64 BBC GoodFood

water 2 cups
ginger-garlic paste 1 tsp
green chilli 1, chopped
garam masala 1 tsp
breadcrumbs 1 cup
salt to taste
pepper a pinch
spring onion bulbs 2, sliced
red pepper 1/2, sliced
garlic cloves 1 tbsp, chopped

QBoil the soya mince and water


together for 5 minutes. Drain the mince
and refresh with cool water. Squeeze
out any excess water and keep aside.
QMix the meatball ingredients
together and form a rm dough. Divide
the dough into small balls.
QHeat the oil in a wok and deep fry
a soya ball, taking care that it doesnt
disintegrate. In case it breaks, add
some breadcrumbs to bind it. Fry
another meatball and check. Once it
fries easily without breaking, fry the
rest of the meatballs. Keep aside.
QHeat 2 tbsp oil in a pan. On a high
ame, add the sliced spring onion, red
pepper, garlic and chillies. Saut for a
minute. Add the soya sauce, ketchup,
vinegar, chilli sauce and water. Mix well
and then add the meatballs.
QCook for a couple of minutes, add
a tablespoon of water if required.
The sauce should be of a coating
consistency. Once the meatballs are
heated through in the sauce, garnish
with chopped spring onion greens and
black pepper. Serve hot.
QPER SERVING 357 kcals, protein
12.3g, carbs 33.03g, fat 19.68g, sat fat
1.13g, fibre 1.58g, salt 0.5g
JULY 2013

Kayastha cooking
Discover a treasure trove of home-style recipes from the aristocratic Kayasthas famed for their
unique culinary traditions. Adapted from Preeta Mathurs Kayastha Kitchens Through India
Recipes PREETA MATHUR Photographs SANJAY RAMCHANDRAN

Badi bauwa ki handia


(recipe on p 100)

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EXCLUSIVE!

GOOD FOOD
READER OFFER!

Kayastha cuisine
holds a vast, largely
untapped richness
of family tradition;
tenaciously guarded
recipes that are
passed down from one
generation to the next
but rarely documented.
This compilation is
a personal culinary
expression of what I
learnt from my mother,
and she from hers.
In todays busy life,
the skilful blending of
ingredients and the
use of subtle cooking
techniques including
dum, bhuna, and
dhungar (charcoal
smoking) would be
somewhat daunting.
Yet these facets that
raise Kayastha cooking
to a sublime art form. I
hope you enjoy them as
much as I have.
Preeta Mathur, Author, Courtly Cuisine
Kayastha Kitchens Through India.
JULY 2013

Dont miss our fabulous reader offer


20 per cent off on Preeta Mathurs
Kayastha Kitchens Through India.
Just show your copy of BBC Good
Foods July issue at the book shops
cash counter and ask for your
discount. Please note that this offer
is only valid at CMYK stores across
the country until 1st August, 2013.

Chuki sabut mattar


(tender and spiced pea
pods)
Serves 8-10 Q30 minutes Q EASY
Make sure you select tender and young
green peas as the full pod is cooked
with tangy masala. While eating, the
whole pod is put in the mouth, holding
one end of the pod with the fingers. It is
clenched between the front teeth, then
pulled out, leaving the peas and the
tender pod skin in the mouth.

REALLY
REALLY

ghee 2 tbsp
EASY
asafoetida (hing) a big pinch
cumin seeds 1/2 tsp
young pea pods 1kg, washed and
drained

GOOD
FOOD
STAR
RECIPE
salt to taste
garam masala powder 1 1/2 tsp
red chilli powder 1 tsp
dried mango powder (amchoor)
3-4 tsp
QHeat the ghee in a wok; add the
asafoetida and cumin seeds. When the
seeds start crackling, add the whole
pea pods.
QSprinkle salt, garam masala and
red chilli powder. Reduce the heat
and cook. Sprinkle water, if required.
When the peas are tender, sprinkle the
mango powder and mix well. Serve hot.
Q PER SERVING 137.88 kcals, protein
7.01g, carbs 18.58g, fat 4.33g, sat fat
2.24g, fibre 6.49g, salt 1g

BBC GoodFood 67

THE LENTIL STRIPS


husked black lentils 250g, soaked for
2-4 hours in water, drained
asafoetida (hing) a big pinch
red chilli powder 1/2 tsp
coriander powder 1/2 tsp
oil 100ml, for frying
THE GRAVY
oil 2 tbsp
bay leaves 2
ginger-garlic paste 2 tbsp
onion paste 2 tbsp
tomato paste 1 tbsp
yoghurt 1 1/2 tbsp
coriander powder 1 tsp
turmeric 1/2 tsp
red chilli powder 1/2 tsp
salt to taste
garam masala powder 1 tsp
THE GARNISH
coriander 1 tbsp, chopped

Badi bauwa ki handia


(earthy-avoured
chicken)
Serves 4-6 Q50 minutes + marinating
time Q EASY
This preparation is cooked in a new
earthen pot, which gives the chicken
a unique earthy fragrance and flavour.
You could even use a heavy pan.
yoghurt 250g
salt to taste
ginger and garlic paste 2 tbsp each
green chillies 6, 3 ground to a paste +
3 slit and deseeded to garnish
chicken 1kg, cut into 8 pieces
ghee 2 tbsp
bay leaves 3
black cardamoms 3
cinnamon a 1-inch stick
black peppercorns 6
cashewnut paste 125g
saffron a generous pinch, dissolved in
2 tbsp warm milk
flour dough to seal
cream 2 tbsp
garam masala powder 1 tbsp
QBeat the yoghurt in a bowl with
salt. Add half the ginger and garlic
paste and all of the green chilli paste.
68 BBC GoodFood

Marinate the chicken in this mixture for


2-3 hours.
QHeat the ghee in an earthenware pot
or a heavy-bottomed pan; add the bay
leaves, black cardamoms, cinnamon
and black peppercorns. When slightly
aromatic, add the remaining ground
ginger-garlic paste and stir.
QAdd the chicken mixture, cashewnut
paste, and saffron mixture; mix well.
Cover the pot with kneaded our
dough to seal in the fragrance. Cook
on low heat for 30 minutes or till the
chicken is done.
QJust before serving, break open the
dough seal. Garnish with slit green
chillies, cream and garam masala
powder. Serve hot with parathas.
Q PER SERVING 354.17 kcals, protein
40.13g, carbs 8.62g, fat 16.05g, sat fat
4.38g, fibre 0.45g, salt 0.2g

Riconch (deep-fried
lentil strips in tomato
gravy)
Serves 4-6 Q50 minutes
Q A LITTLE EFFORT
This is a traditional dish from
Daryabad in Uttar Pradesh. I am
grateful to my friend Anila for
demonstrating it.

QFor the lentil strips, grind the lentils


with the asafoetida, red chilli and
coriander powder. Beat the mixture till
light and uffy. To check the lightness of
the batter, drop 1/4 tsp in a bowl of water.
If it rises, it is done and if it settles down
it needs to be beaten more.
QSpread 1 tbsp of the lentil batter on
your wet palm. Cut into rectangular
strips, about 1 1/2 -2 inches in breadth.
Trim off the uneven edges with a knife.
QHeat the oil in a wok; deep-fry the
strips until brown. Remove and drain the
excess oil on a kitchen towel.
QFor the gravy, heat 2 tbsp oil in a wok;
add the bay leaves. Stir in the gingergarlic paste. Add the onion paste and
saut till golden brown. Add the tomato
paste and yoghurt. Stir in the coriander
powder, turmeric powder, red chilli
powder and salt.
QAdd the garam masala and saut till
the oil separates. Pour 2 cups of warm
water. When it starts boiling, lower the
heat and add the lentil strips. Cook on
low heat till the gravy thickens. Remove
and serve hot, garnished with coriander
and accompanied with phulkas or rice.
Q PER SERVING 369.33 kcals, protein
13.42g, carbs 31.87g, fat 21.97g, sat fat
1.25g, fibre 9.57g, salt 0.1g
JULY 2013

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Garlay (recipe overleaf)

Lazeez meen dum


(sh chunks cooked on
charcoal re)
Serves 6-8 Q1 hour + overnight
refrigeration Q EASY
Chunks of fish are cooked on charcoal
fire in a wide open pateela or lagan (a
round and shallow copper pan). Live
charcoals are placed on the lid, which is
sealed with flour dough.
fish chunks (surmai) 1kg, with one
central bone, smeared with 1 tsp salt
and 1/4 cup vinegar, lightly pricked
with a fork and pat-dried
ghee 200g
onions 200g, thinly sliced
flour dough to seal
coriander 15g, chopped
almonds 2 tbsp, toasted and chopped

Garlay (deep-fried gram


our and lamb balls)
Serves 6-7 Q1 hour 15 minutes
Q MODERATELY EASY
Garlay or garelu in Telugu is a popular
snack, referred to as ghazak in
Hyderabad. Given the Andhraites
penchant for chillies, the fieriness
has to be adjusted in this preparation
according to taste and preference.
lamb mince 250g
red chilli powder 1 tbsp
salt to taste
oil for frying
coriander 30g, chopped
green chillies 2-3, chopped
THE SPICE PASTE
coriander 1/2 cup
mint leaves 1 tsp
green chillies 2-3, deseeded
ginger a 1-inch piece, scraped
garlic cloves 8
THE THICK BATTER
gram flour 250g
salt to taste
red chilli powder 1 tsp

70 BBC GoodFood

THE THIN BATTER


gram flour 3 tbsp
salt to taste
QBoil the mince with red chilli powder,
salt and water till it is cooked through
and the mixture is completely dry. Remove
and keep aside to cool. When cool, grind
to a paste.
QFinely grind all the ingredients of the
spice paste together until coarse. Keep
aside.
QIn a bowl make a thick batter with gram
our, salt, red chilli powder and the spice
paste. Heat the oil in a wok on slow heat;
lower 1 tbsp of the batter mixture into the
oil and deep-fry, in batches, to make crisp
brown balls. Remove and drain on a kitchen
towel. Repeat till all the mixture is used up.
Allow them to cool so that they turn crisp.
QCrush the balls well with your ngers.
Mix the ground mince with the crushed
balls. Sprinkle some water if required. Add
the coriander and green chillies; mix. Make
walnut-sized balls and keep aside.
QMake a thin batter with gram our and
salt. Dip the mince balls in the batter and
deep-fry till golden brown. Serve hot.
Q PER SERVING 352.43 kcals, protein 17.1g,
carbs 23.31g, fat 20.84g, sat fat 2.81g,
fibre 3.26g, salt 0.1g

THE MARINADE
garlic cloves 1 1/2 tbsp, chopped
ginger 1 1/2 tbsp, chopped
black cardamoms 2 tsp, seeds only,
ground
red chilli powder 1 tsp
almonds 8, 6 ground with 2 tbsp water
+ 2 chopped to garnish
lemon 1, juiced
cream 120ml
meetha ittar 2 drops
screw pine water (kevda) 1 tbsp
saffron a pinch, dissolved in 2 tbsp
warm milk
salt to taste
QMarinate the sh chunks with all the
ingredients of the marinade. Cover and
refrigerate ovenight.
QHeat the ghee in a heavy-bottomed
pan; add the onions and fry till golden.
Add the sh along with its marinade.
Close the lid and seal it with our
dough.
QPlace it on a charcoal re or a gas
stove. It should be slow cooked. If
cooking on re or gas, place red hot
embers on the lid.
QBreak the seal just before serving.
Garnish with coriander and almonds.
Q PER SERVING 409.63 kcals, protein
24.58g, carbs 5.36g, fat 32.1g, sat fat
17.79g, fibre 1.39g, salt 0.4g
JULY 2013

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Bhuna zimikand (spiced


yoghurt yam)
Serves 4-6 Q1 hour Q EASY
This recipe can also be made with raw
banana or jackfruit. To make this dish
with raw bananas, peel and cut them
into small roundels and fry them.
For jackfruit, use a greased knife and
greased hands to remove the peel and
cut the jackfruit into 1 1/2 inch pieces.
Do not remove the seeds.
oil for deep frying + 3 tbsp extra
yam (suran) 500g, peeled and cubed
onions 2 medium, sliced
ginger a 1-inch piece, nely chopped
garlic cloves 6, peeled and chopped
red chilli powder 1 tsp
turmeric powder 1/2 tsp
coriander powder 2 tsp
salt to taste
yoghurt 4 tbsp
coriander leaves to garnish
garam masala 1 tsp, to garnish
QHeat the oil in a pan and fry the yam
pieces till golden. Remove and keep
aside.
QIn another pan, heat 3 tbsp oil and
fry the onions till brown. Stir in the
ginger and garlic and saut. Add the
red chilli powder, turmeric, coriander
powder and salt. Sprinkle water if
required and saut further.
QAdd the fried yam. After a minute,
pour the yoghurt. Cover and cook on
low heat. Add 3/4 cup water and cover
again. Let it simmer for 10 minutes.
(If the yam needs to be cooked more,
add 1/2 cup warm water and cook for
another 5-7 minutes.)
QGarnish with chopped coriander and
sprinkle garam masala before serving.
Q PER SERVING 349 kcals, protein
2.62g, carbs 28.07g, fat 25.6g, sat fat
1.53g, fibre 4.98g, salt none

JULY 2013

BBC GoodFood 71

with the cloves, cinnamon, green


cardamoms and rice.
QCook the rice and drain in a colander.
Remove the whole spices. Heat the
one-strand sugar syrup. Add the rice
and stir gently for a minute. Cook for 10
minutes till all the liquid is reduced.
QAdd the khoya, dried fruits, ghee and
saffron mixture. Serve garnished with
silver leaves (optional).
Q PER SERVING 973.5 kcals, protein
8.42g, carbs 180.55g, fat 27.23g, sat fat
16.41g, fibre 0.42g, salt 0.1g

Phirni (thickened rice


pudding)
Serves 6-8 Q35 minutes Q EASY
Cold phirni served in earthen bowls
with nuts is an excellent, cooling
dessert. The aroma of the clay bowls
lends a unique earthy flavour.
full-cream milk 1l
rice 3 tbsp, soaked in water for 1 hour,
drained, and ground to a paste
sugar 250g, powdered
green cardamoms 5, powdered
raisins 10
rosewater 1 tbsp
saffron a big pinch, soaked in 2 tbsp
warm water
almonds 20, blanched, skinned and
slivered
pistachios 10, blanched, skinned and
slivered

Meetha chawal
(sweetened rice)
Serves 8-10 Q1 hour Q EASY
This sweet and fragrant rice dessert
is cooked with dry fruits, sugar and
flavoured with saffron. A delicious
alternative to milky rice kheer!
THE ONE-STRAND SUGAR SYRUP
sugar 750g
water 300ml
saffron, a pinch dissolved in warm
water
THE RICE
cloves 8-10
72 BBC GoodFood

cinnamon a 1-inch stick, halved


green cardamoms 10
REALLY
REALLY
basmati rice 3 cups
EASY
khoya 250g, crumbled
dried fruits (almond, pistachios and
charoli) 2 tbsp, slivered
ghee 200g
saffron a big pinch, dissolved in 7-8
drops of screw pine water (kevda) or
rosewater
QTo make the syrup, boil the sugar
and water together. Stir constantly to
avoid the sugar from crystallising. Add
the saffron mixture and keep aside.
This will take 30 minutes.
QBoil 2 1/2 litres of water along

QBoil the milk in a heavy-bottomed


pot; add the rice paste. Stir constantly
with a whisk, so that there are no
lumps.
QWhen it is thick and creamy, add the
sugar and cardamom powder. Add the
raisins, rosewater and saffron mixture;
mix well.
QPour into earthen bowls (shakoras)
or silver bowls. Serve sprinkled with
slivered almonds and pistachios.
Q PER SERVING 236.63 kcals, protein
5g, carbs 42.49g, fat 5.66g, sat fat 3g,
fibre 0.5g, salt none

JULY 2013

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Juicy cherries bring a summertime spirit to desserts. Make the most of them with our showstoppers

Recipe JANE HORNBY Photograph MYLES NEW Styling LISA HARRISON Food styling JANE HORNBY

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Upside-down cherry torte


(recipe overleaf)

Serves 10 Q1 hour 20 minutes Q EASY


unsalted butter 200g + extra for
greasing, softened (try President
available at gourmet stores)
raspberry or apricot jam 2 heaped
tbsp (try Bonne Maman available at
gourmet stores)
cherries 500g (pitted weight)
golden caster sugar 200g (try Tate &
Lyle available at gourmet stores)
orange 1, zested
almonds 100g, ground
self-raising flour 150g
salt 1/2 tsp
vanilla essence 1 tsp
Greek yoghurt 100g + extra to serve
(try Himalya Fresh available at gourmet
stores)
eggs 4 large
QHeat the oven to 160C. Butter a
23cm round springform tin and line the
base with baking parchment. Spread
most of the jam over the bottom of
the tin and then add the cherries in an
even layer.
QPut the butter into a mixing bowl,
add the remaining ingredients and use
an electric beater to mix everything to
a smooth, thick cake-like batter. Do not
overbeat once its come together.
QSpoon the batter evenly over the
cherries, level the top, then put into
the oven, making sure theres a tray

underneath on the shelf below as the


cherries can drip a little. Bake for about
1 hour, or until golden and risen and a
skewer comes out clean when inserted
into the middle of the cake (if not, give
it another 10 minutes). Cool in the tin
for at least 30 minutes, then unclip and
turn upright onto a cake plate.
QWarm the remaining jam and brush
it over the top of the fruit. Serve
slightly warm, with dollops of Greek
yoghurt, if you like.
QPER SERVING 422 kcals, protein 7.5g,
carbs 42.8g, fat 25.8g, sat fat 12.1g, fibre
1.2g, salt 0.51g

Merry cherry zz
Serves 6 Q5 minutes Q EASY
cherry brandy liqueur 50ml
kirsch 50ml
amaretto 50ml
vodka 100ml
grape juice 500ml
soda 250ml
cherries 12
QPour the cherry brandy liqueur,
kirsch, amaretto and vodka into a jug
or cocktail shaker and mix well. Divide
between 6 tall glasses and top up with
grape juice and soda. Add 2 cherries to
each glass and serve.
QPER SERVING 328 kcals, protein
none, carbs 19g, fat none, sat fat none,
fibre none, sugar 19g, salt none

Photograph PHILLIP WEBB Styling JO HARRIS Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE

Upside-down cherry
torte

Recipe JOHN TORRODE Photograph GARETH MORGANS Styling CYNTHIA INIONS Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE

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Cherry pie and vanilla cream


(recipe overleaf)

juice and then stir back into the juice


in the pan. Bring the juice to a simmer
and cook until it thickens. Cool. Put the
fruit in the pie base and pour over the
thickened juice.
QRoll out the rest of the pastry, cut
a circle big enough to cover the pie,
crimping the edges to seal. Brush with
milk and scatter with sugar. Cut two
slits in the top.
QPut on a baking tray and bake for
about 25 minutes. Softly whip the
cream with the vanilla extract and
serve with the pie.
QPER SERVING 585 kcals, protein
4.9g, carbs 60.2g, fat 37.8g, sat fat 18.1g,
fibre 1.7g, salt 0.67g

Cherries in ros wine


and vanilla syrup
Serves 4 Q1 hour Q EASY
ros wine 425ml
vanilla pod 1, split lengthways
demerara sugar 100g (try Bluebird
available at gourmet stores)
cherries 500g

Serves 8 Q1 1/2 hours Q A LITTLE


EFFORT
flour 450g, sifted
butter 300g, chilled and cubed
icing sugar 50g (try Bluebird available
at gourmet stores)
cherries 700g, pitted
apples 2, peeled, cored and chopped
vanilla sugar 100g (or use normal
sugar mixed with a drop of vanilla
extract)
cornflour 1 tbsp
whole milk 3 tbsp, for brushing
golden caster sugar 1 tbsp (try Tate &
Lyle available at gourmet stores)
double cream 300ml
vanilla essence 1 tsp
78 BBC GoodFood

QFor the pie base, mix together the


butter and our by hand or in a food
processor until it resembles rough
crumbs. Add the sugar and knead into
a dough. Wrap in cling-lm and let it
chill for 30 minutes.
QHeat the oven to 200C. Roll out half
the pastry and line a dish about 23cm
across and 4cm deep. Cover the pastry
with baking parchment and baking
beans and then bake for 15 minutes.
Take out the paper and beans, and
cook for 5 minutes. Cool.
QMix the cherries with the apples and
vanilla sugar in a baking dish and cover
with foil. Bake at the same temperature
for 20 minutes. Take out of the oven
and drain off the juice into a saucepan.
Cool the fruit.
QMix the cornour with 3 tbsp of the

Double cherry semifreddo


Serves 8 Q35 minutes + freezing
Q MODERATELY EASY
cherries 1kg, pitted
double cream 400ml (available at your
local dairy)
icing sugar 100g (try Bluebird available
at gourmet stores)
JULY 2013

Recipe MARY CADOGEN Photograph ROGER STOWELL

Cherry pie and vanilla


cream

QTip the wine into a medium pan, then


add the vanilla pod to the pan with the
sugar. Bring to the boil, then reduce the
heat and simmer until the sugar has
dissolved.
QStone the cherries if you want, or
leave them as they are. Add to the pan
and cook gently for 6 minutes. Remove
with a slotted spoon to a bowl. Increase
the heat, then boil the liquid for about
8-10 minutes until slightly syrupy. Pour
over the cherries and serve warm or
cold in glass bowls.
QPER SERVING 199 kcals, protein 1g,
carbs 43g, fat none, sat fat none, fibre
1g, sugar 43g, salt 0.02g

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eggs 4, separated
biscuit wafers to serve (optional)

Recipe JOHN TORRODE

QSet aside a handful (about 50g)


of the pitted cherries. Place the
remainder in a large pan set over a
medium heat with the cream and 50g
icing sugar. Bring to the boil, then
gently simmer for 5 minutes until the
cherries start to soften. Carefully whizz
in a blender, then pass through a sieve.
QPour a little of the hot cherry cream
over the egg yolks, whisk well, then
pour back into the pan. Cook for about
5 minutes more or until the mixture

has thickened a little and coats the


back of a wooden spoon. Pour through
a sieve into a bowl; cover the surface
with cling-lm and then leave to cool
completely.
QWhisk the egg whites until stiff peaks
form, then whisk in the remaining 50g
sugar, 1 tbsp at a time. Keep whisking
until the mixture is stiff and resembles
shaving foam. Stir a third of the
mixture into the cooled cream, mix
until it is well incorporated, then gently
fold through the remaining mixture
twice.
QLine a loaf tin with cling-lm. Pour

the mixture into the tin, then cover


with cling-lm and place in the freezer
for about 3 hours until just starting
to freeze. Stir the whole cherries into
the semi-frozen mixture, then return
to the freezer for at least 8 hours or
preferably overnight. Serve cut into
slices with some berries, or sandwiched
between wafers.
QPER SERVING 400 kcals, protein 5g,
carbs 29g, fat 30g, sat fat 16g, fibre
none, sugar 28g, salt 0.15g

Choc-cherry fudge torte


with cherry sorbet
Makes 10 slices Q1 hour 10 minutes +
soaking Q A LITTLE EFFORT
sour cherries 100g, dried
brandy 5 tbsp
flour 300g
cocoa 85g + extra for dusting
soft brown sugar 200g (try Tate &
Lyle available at gourmet stores)
baking powder and bicarbonate of
soda 1 tsp each
sunflower oil 150ml
milk 350ml
agave syrup or honey 150ml (try
Sunny Bio available at gourmet stores)
icing sugar for dusting (try Bluebird
available at gourmet stores)

Cherry ripple ice cream


Makes 1.3l Q45 minutes + freezing
Q EASY
cherries 300g, pitted and chopped
golden caster sugar 3 tbsp (try Tate &
Lyle available at gourmet stores)
vanilla essence 1/2 tsp
double cream 500ml (available at your
local dairy)
THE VANILLA CUSTARD
vanilla pod 1
milk 250ml
double cream 250ml
egg yolks 5
golden caster sugar 120g (try Tate &
Lyle available at gourmet stores)
QTo make the custard, split the vanilla
pod in half and scrape the seeds out
with a knife. Place the pods and seeds
in a medium pan with the milk and
cream. Bring to the boil slowly then
take off the heat and leave to stand.
80 BBC GoodFood

QLightly whisk the egg yolks and


caster sugar until pale and thick. Whisk
in the vanilla-infused milk sh the pod
out rst then wipe the pan (to get
rid of any milk that has caught on the
base) and strain the custard mixture
back in. Put it back on medium heat,
stirring continuously until the custard
thickens enough to coat the back of a
wooden spoon. Dont let it overheat or
boil or the egg will curdle. Set aside.
QCook the cherries with the caster
sugar until they begin to soften. Softly
whip the vanilla custard and vanilla
essence together. Pour the cream and
custard mix into an ice cream maker
and churn (or freeze in a container)
until softly frozen youll need to be
able to stir the cherries through. Spoon
into a large container and stir through
the cherries to make a ripple effect.
Freeze until needed.
QPER SERVING 154 kcals, protein 1.1g,
carbs 7.7g, fat 13.6g, sat fat 7.7g, fibre
0.1g, salt 0.04g

QFor the sorbet, whizz the jam with


the sugar until smooth, then tip into a
container. Freeze until solid.
QMix the cherries and the brandy and
leave to soak for a few hours. Heat
the oven to 160C. Line the base of a
round, 20cm loose-bottomed tin with
baking parchment. Mix the our, cocoa,
brown sugar, baking powder and soda
bicarbonate in a big bowl. Whisk the oil,
milk and agave syrup or honey, then
add to the dry ingredients and stir in
with a wooden spoon. Add the cherries
and any brandy, then scrape into the
tin. Bake for about 35-45 minutes until
crisp on top but fudgy in the centre.
Cool in the tin.
QCarefully lift the torte onto a serving
plate. Dust with cocoa and icing sugar,
and serve with the cherry sorbet.
QPER SERVING 582 kcals, protein 4g,
carbs 101g, fat 18g, sat fat 3g, fibre 3g,
sugar 71g, salt 0.7g

JULY 2013

Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE Photograph AMANDA HEYWOOD Styling ROSIN NIELD Food styling CATHERINE HILL

THE CHERRY SORBET


cherry jam 2 jars, 600g each (try
Bonne Maman available at gourmet
stores)
caster sugar 200g (try Tate & Lyle
available at gourmet stores)

Recipe SARAH COOK Photograph DAVID MUNNS Styling LUCY HARVEY Food styling LIZZIE HARRIS

eat in
show off

eat out
Breakfasts on trial, plus Chez Nini's Poutine to try at home

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32

On trial

Breakfasts
No meal matters more than breakfast. We size up the brekkie offerings
of six eateries to figure which ones truly rise and shine

HOW WE DID IT Culinary binges are pardonable so long as you unleash at breakfast. The rst meal of the
day is the most signicant after all morning is the time you need to give your body a nutritional boost. In this selection
youll nd six eateries that have a dedicated breakfast menu or offer a selection of dishes and beverages that are most
suited to breakfast. In keeping with the relaxed nature of the meal, we have picked cafs with a casual vibe rather than fulledged restaurants.

MONKEY
BAR, Bengaluru

With its unorthodox menu, unusual


avour combinations and relaxed
dcor, Monkey Bar created a new
segment for the gastropub when it
opened in the summer of 2012. Less
than a year later, it raised the bar
further by introducing a weekend
breakfast thats quite unlike anything
else available in Bengaluru and,
possibly, the country. In the mornings,
Monkey Bar is still working up to its
high-energy post-noon avatar: the
music is muted, the much-coveted

84 BBC GoodFood

booths are actually available for walkins and, it may be my mistake, but even
the excellent waitstaff team isnt quite
bouncing off the walls. The mellow
mood is just what we need when we
come in after a hard night, sunglasses
hiding our bleary eyes.

QTHE SPREAD
Expect the unexpected. That adage
sums up executive chef and partner
Manu Chandras menu very well. But
some things work better than others.
Over multiple visits, we have never
been disappointed by any dish built
around bread. Baked in-house, the
muffins, the challah (plaited bread

of Jewish origin), the croissant, even


the pita and the pav are stars in their
own right though they usually play
supporting roles to egg and meat.
The classic Eggs Benedict English
muffins served with a slice of ham,
poached eggs and generous lashings of
the smoothest hollandaise is always
a winner, as is the Toast to France, a
jazzed-up French toast using challah
with notes of orange, cinnamon, honey
and vanilla. The Pandi & Pita a
shredded pork curry with undertones
of kachumpuli, served quirkily with
Middle Eastern bread hits the spot
as well. The monster-sized croissant
redenes decadent; one bite and you
expect to have butter running down
your chin. Excellent by itself or topped
with the house marmalade and jam.
The ambitious Morning Quickie
section, though, is a bit of a hit-andmiss affair. Even if youre feeling
adventurous, a couple of the dishes
really have no place at breakfast: the
Tikki of Joy (bekti cutlets served with
kasundi) and the Pickled Beef, in
fact, are lifts from the regular menu.
One or two other dishes leave us
underwhelmed. The handvo, a Gujarati
veg-and-lentil pancake, lacks the
oomph a domestic staple needs for
a place on a professional menu. The
Rujak, a sweet-and-sour salad of fried

Left: Monkey
Bars warm
interiors are
replete with
spacious
benches,
eclectic
artefacts and
retro-pop
posters; Facing
page: Monkey
Bars traditional
English
breakfast is fit
for a king

JULY 2013

eat out
restaurant spy

prawns, tofu, sprouts and pineapple,


is too undistinguished in terms of
taste to work. The biggest gripe is
the dearth of vegetarian choices and
options for non-red meat eaters.

CAF TERRA,
Bengaluru

From the outside, Caf Terra isnt


much to look at. A handful of tables
are arranged in a small rst oor room,
adjoining which is the kitchen. Despite
the limited space, efforts have been
made to make it cosy and warm. The
side that faces the road is glass lined,
giving the caf an airy feel. The tables
lining this wall are ideal to watch life
go by. Another wall has shelves lled
with comics, magazines and books so
solitary diners dont feel the lack of
company. The caf has only a couple
of waitstaff, who are helpful but a little
reticent. It gets crowded during the
weekends at breakfast time, but since
breakfast is served all day along with a
regular lunch and dinner menu, theres
a constant ow of diner traffic.

QBESTSELLERS
Eggs Benedict, Lord Cubbons Vice
(the traditional English breakfast),
Kheema Bao, Red Velvet Pancakes,
Eggs in a Blanket, Akuri, Toast to
France, French Press coffee

QPROVENANCE
Everything is locally sourced, except
the maple syrup, which is imported
from the US.

QWHAT TO DRINK
The fruit juices are fresh but
exorbitantly priced. The French Press
coffee is uneven, excellent on some
days and unimpressive on others.
Of the four cocktails, the Bloody
Monkey a take on the Bloody
Mary, with a choice of vodka, gin or
rum is certain to revive the party
animal after the wildest Friday night.
The classic cocktail also features
in the signature Bloody Breakfast,
served with skewers of baconwrapped sausages, mushrooms,
chicken and potato skins.

QINSIDER TIP
Ask nicely and they can customise
your order to a certain extent, as in
add or subtract an ingredient.

QDETAILS
14/1 Krishna Manere, Ashok Nagar,
Bengaluru. Tel: +91 80 4111 6878.
Timings: Weekends 9 am 12 pm.
Breakfast dishes ` 155 onwards;
drinks ` 70 onwards.
86 BBC GoodFood

QTHE SPREAD

Quality: 9/10
Choice: 7/10
Provenance:
9.5/10
Atmosphere:
8.5/10
Value: 7.5/10
Total: 41.5/50
Sumana
Mukherjee

Caf Terra is known for its continental


breakfast but on the face of it, the
menu is not too impressive. It offers
three breakfast combos (Belgian,
English and Ham basket), nine kinds
of omelettes, four kinds of crpes and
an assortment of sides. Unfortunately,
pure vegetarians get the short shrift:
theres nothing of substance for them
except for beans on toast and a couple
of sandwiches. The Belgian breakfast
with waffles, muffin or cake and grilled
potatoes is a fantasy for those with a
sweet tooth. Soft, uffy, golden brown
and dusted with sugar powder, the

waffle is substantial and delicious


accompanied with either maple or
chocolate syrup. A slice of warm
Banana and Walnut Cake adds to the
sugar high. However, the two pieces of
grilled potato are greasy and soggy and
strike a discordant note that resonates
in the other dishes that they are
served with. The Spinach and Tomato
Omelette is sure to get Popeyes nod;
it is full of spinach and still manages
to be spongy and light. Although it
benets from the goodness of veggies,
the Spinach, Tomato, Corn & Garlic
Frittata is severely under-seasoned
and no amount of salt and pepper
can elevate it beyond the ordinary. A
side order of Sausages with Sauted
Onions is executed well; the chicken
sausages are crisp on the outside and
juicy within while the caramelised
onion slivers add a nice texture to the
dish. The Tomato, Cheese and Basil
Grilled Sandwich, one of the few pure
vegetarian choices on the menu, is not
remarkable.

QBESTSELLERS
Belgian breakfast, Garden Omelette,
Spinach and Tomato Omelette

QPROVENANCE
The restaurant works with very basic
and simple ingredients, all of which are
procured locally.

QWHAT TO DRINK
The choice extends to a couple of
canned juices, a handful of coffees,
iced tea, a banana yoghurt smoothie
and a few coolers. Of the coffees, the
cappuccino is refreshing and ticks all
the boxes though the quantity is a bit
JULY 2013

Photographs DIPTI DESAI

eat out
restaurant spy

overwhelming. The iced tea with a hint


of lemon is delicious and apt for a hot
morning. The smoothie has a mushy
texture and leaves a bitter aftertaste.
But the Strawberry Slush is a crowd
pleaser that would work better later in
the day.

QINSIDER TIP
Though the menu lists only crpes,
guests can also ask for pancakes with
their choice of accompaniments.

QDETAILS
V3 Trinity, 1020 1st Floor, 80 ft Road,
1st Block, Koramangala, Bengaluru.
Tel: +91 80 4131 3553. Timings: Daily
8 am 10 pm. Breakfast dishes ` 70
onwards; breakfast combos ` 100
onwards; drinks ` 45 onwards.

Quality: 6/10
Choice: 5/10
Provenance: 6/10
Atmosphere: 5/10
Value: 8/10
Total: 30/50

Clockwise
from facing
page: Monkey
Bars Toast to
France is made
of pan-fried
challah; Caf
Terras spacious
interiors; Pasta
Arrabiata;
Belgian crpes
with banana
and chocolate
sauce make for
a sumptuous
breakfast;
Waffles
accompanied
with chocolate
syrup at Caf
Terra

Anita Rao-Kashi

JULY 2013

BBC GoodFood 87

Salt Water Cafs sumptuous Spanish omelette


Cereal with fruit is perfect
for fitness fiends

SALT WATER
CAF, Mumbai

QBESTSELLERS

If we were to include Bandras Salt


Water Caf in a word association game,
chorizo, eggs, sangria, John Dory and
Swine Dining are likely to emerge as
the top contenders. Though breakfast
wasnt always the draw at this all-day
restaurant, their current spread of
breakfast sandwiches, gourmet egg
dishes, pancakes, waffles and fresh juices
has cultivated a sizeable fan following.
Located on an arterial road, the cafs
large glass windows allow plenty of
sunlight to stream in and offer an
uninterrupted view of the street. Though
Spartan, the predominantly wooden
dcor is edgy in design and aesthetic too.

QPROVENANCE

QTHE SPREAD

A range of goodies up for


grabs at the deli counter

88 BBC GoodFood

With brekkie mainstays and a few meaty


and gourmet twists to perk up egg
classics, the strength of Salt Water Cafs
offerings lies in the attention to detail.
Whether it is the seriously addictive
whipped butter that accompanies each
dish, the tomato jam that comes with
scrambled eggs or the roasted tomato
with crispy green breadcrumbs that is a
side to our eggs, these little touches offer
a clever play on avours and textural
contrast. Our Cured Chorizo with two
eggs sunny-side-up is cooked perfectly
with comfortingly runny egg yolks and
whites studded with crisp fried cubes
of chorizo and potatoes. But given
the cafs affinity for chorizo, were a
bit disappointed with their frugality.
We have no complaints from our next
order. The Eggs Benedict has pillowy
poached eggs sitting comfortably on an
English muffin topped with thin slices
of ham. The revelation in this otherwise
classic dish is the brown butter barnaise
sauce served in place of the classic
hollandaise, which adds a nutty punch
to the dish. Similarly uplifting are the
Assorted Berry Pancakes redolent with
plump blueberries and raspberries. The
pancakes arent as uffy as wed like but
smeared with maple syrup and some
more of that delicious whipped butter,
they hit our sweet spot perfectly.

Waffles, Assorted Berry Pancakes, Eggs


Benedict, Eggs Florentine, croissants
and muffins
Most of the produce used in the cafs
breakfast selection is sourced locally,
except for the cheeses and cold cuts,
which are imported.

QWHAT TO DRINK
Unlike most establishments that tend
to have a stepmotherly approach to
their non-alcoholic beverage selection,
the menu here is well curated and
borrows inspiration from Mochas
extensive range of teas and coffees. Our
Monsoon Malabar Coffee is a smooth
brew and has a unique mellowness.
This is attributed to the monsoon
winds of the Malabar Coast, which
cause the beans to lose their inherent
acidity. Served in a French press
with biscotti to dunk into the coffee,
we arent too pleased with the coffee
grounds that repeatedly make their way
into our cup. Pick their muffins over
the doughy croissants to go with the
coffee. From their noteworthy fresh
juice selection, we pick the uber healthy
Apple, Grape, Coriander and Arugula
juice. The sweet fruit juice has a
peppery undertone to it and is elevated
by just a hint of coriander at the end.

QINSIDER TIP
Since the service at Salt Water Caf
tends to crack under pressure, its best
to avoid hunger pangs by getting an
early start and avoiding the 11 am
brunch crowd.

QDETAILS
Rose Minar Annexe, Chapel Road,
Bandra (West), Mumbai. Tel: +91 22
26434441. Breakfast timings: Daily
9 am 11.59 am. Egg dishes ` 160
onwards, breakfast sandwiches
` 190 onwards, fresh fruit juices ` 165
onwards.

Quality: 7/10
Choice: 9/10
Provenance: 7/10
Atmosphere: 9/10
Value: 8/10
Total: 40/50
Kainaz Contractor
JULY 2013

eat out
restaurant spy

LLOYDS
TEA HOUSE,
Chennai

Reecting not just the name of the


bustling Chennai street that it is nestled
into but also its British-inuenced
aesthetics, Lloyds Tea House is a cosy
and quaint new eatery that oozes old
world charm.Your senses are soothed
soon after you enter by the pastel blue
walls and contrasting dark tea boxes
lining them. Coupled with vintage map
print upholstery and antique suitcases
that double as shelves, this caf that
specialises in teas from around the world
makes you yearn for a perfect cuppa
and a sumptuous English breakfast.
Luckily for us, Lloyds Tea House
takes its chai very seriously. The
menu boasts 63 aromatic varieties
of tea that arrive at your table in an
innovative automatic decanter together
with delightful mini hourglass timers
to ensure that your tea is brewed
to perfection. In addition to all day
breakfast specials, an array of appetisers
and toasties, the caf also serves salads,
pasta, pizzas and sandwiches.

Photographs SUMANTH KUMAR

QTHE SPREAD
The classic Eggs Benedict is the king of
a wholesome breakfast this rich and
avoursome dish consists of perfectly
poached eggs and warm, cooked ham
served on top of an English muffin,
smothered in a creamy hollandaise
sauce. The key to its success lies in
the sauce, which should harmonise
and balance the rest of the ingredients
while also cutting through the richness
of the ham. While this is where most
restaurants crumble, Lloyds homemade
hollandaise is truly delicious with the
emulsion of hot butter and egg yolks
complementing the avour of the ham.
The subtle lemon notes in the sauce
distinguish it from run-of-the-mill
variants. However, the English muffin
is replaced with crunchier bread.
Although it pairs well with the sunny
egg yolk and the creamy hollandaise,
the bread is initially hard to cut into.
Without ham but with the addition of
JULY 2013

creamy spinach, the Eggs Florentine is


equally delicious.You cant go wrong
with either option at this Victorian tea
house.

Eggs Benedict

QBESTSELLERS
American Breakfast served with Chilli
Herb Bread, Rosti Platter, Franconian
Peppermint Tea

QPROVENANCE
Given the quality of the meat served,
it comes as a bit of a surprise that the
restaurant sources most of its produce
locally with some cuts brought in
from Bengaluru. However, the teas
are sourced from different parts of the
world including China, Japan, South
Africa and Sri Lanka.

Cottage cheese toasties


with barbecue sauce

QWHAT TO DRINK
This can be the most daunting part
of your meal given that you are so
spoilt for choice. Green, white, black
and Oolong teas, herbal infusions and
fruit mlanges are just a few of the
varieties on offer. If you were to pick
just one, try the Lloyds Tea House
blend, which is a ne fusion of Nilgiri,
Darjeeling and Assam tea, that gives
it a copper tone and strong avour.
The Lemongrass Tea and the fruity
Zen Garden Tea are also extremely
refreshing, with the latter served both
hot and cold.

QINSIDER TIP
A must-try dish that isnt on the
breakfast menu is the Rosti Platter.
It consists of crisp, gratinated hash
browns accompanied by vegetables in
a creamy bchamel sauce, topped with
mozzarella and cheddar cheese. This is
the perfect bite-sized indulgence and a
great option for vegetarians.

QDETAILS

Old world charm at


Lloyds Tea House

179, Lloyds Road, Gopalpuram,


Chennai. Tel: +91 44 4552 4231. Daily
11 am 11 pm. Breakfast dishes
` 150 onwards; breakfast combos
` 200; drinks ` 40 onwards.

Quality: 8/10
Choice: 7.5/10
Provenance: 6/10
Atmosphere: 9/10
Value: 9/10
Total: 39.5/50
Suhail Chandhok
BBC GoodFood 89

We could have also done with more


cheese and hollandaise. The Maple
Marvels pancakes a stack of three
uffy pancakes made with buttermilk
and served with generous lashings
of maple syrup, a dollop of delicious
maple butter and cinnamon sprinkled
on top are not only delectable but
also generous enough to serve two.
The Classic Breakfast Crpes come
stuffed with bacon, gruyre cheese,
caramelised onions and freshly diced
tomatoes, with two poached eggs on
top. This dish is also executed perfectly
the crpes are light and the freshness
of the tomatoes balances out the grease
of the bacon.

QBESTSELLERS
California Benedict, Eggspectation
Waffle with Chocolate

QPROVENANCE
Cheese and maple syrup are imported
while the bread and sauces are made
in house.

QWHAT TO DRINK
Opt for the coffee, available in a variety
of styles, over the mocktail and juices.
Many of the juices used in the coolers
are canned. Our Mint Cooler is said to
have fresh melon and mint mixed in
with thin yoghurt. The drink, loaded
with mint, is cooling for the summer
but we cant detect any melon avour.

QINSIDER TIP

7EGGSPECTATION,
New Delhi
In a city that sorely lacks quality
breakfast options, Eggspectation is a
welcome exception. This is one of the
few places in Delhi where you can
get a real Eggs Benedict or pancakes
with authentic maple syrup. Part of
a Canadian chain that started in the
1990s in Montreal and has outlets in
the US and Canada, the restaurant,
as the name suggests, specialises in
egg-y dishes, including an interesting
Parsi-style akuri. Since it also serves
as the coffee shop for the three Jaypee
hotels in the NCR, coffee shop staples
90 BBC GoodFood

Clockwise
from top:
Eggspectations
salmon
crostini is an
unconventional
breakfast
option; The
restaurants
spacious
iteriors;
Crpes feature
regularly on the
breakfast buffet

have been added to cater to a diverse


audience. The restaurant is spacious.
It is a good idea to choose a quiet
table by the window. Skip the usual
buffet spread and order from the la
carte menu that features various egg
preparations, waffles, pancakes and
crpes served all day. The service is
quick, a denite plus when you are
eating the rst meal of the day.

QTHE BREAKFAST SPREAD


The Eggs Benedict are a must-try in
our opinion. We choose the Country
French variation of this classic, which
has a layer of apples on toasted whole
wheat bread, along with brie, a dash
of hollandaise and poached eggs, in
a portion thats good enough for two
people. The eggs are perfectly done
though the bread is a tad over-toasted.

Most people mistake Eggspectation


to be a regular caf and dont know
about the breakfast specials on the la
carte menu. This menu is much more
rewarding than the buffet spread and
also available all day, while the buffet
winds up by 10.30 am.

QDETAILS
Jaypee Vasant Continental, Vasant
Vihar, New Delhi. Tel: +91 11
26148800. Timings: 24 hours daily.
Breakfast dishes ` 400 onwards; drinks
` 325 onwards.

Quality: 9/10
Choice: 9/10
Provenance: 7/10
Atmosphere: 8/10
Value: 7/10
Total: 40/50
Anoothi Vishal
JULY 2013

eat out
restaurant spy

QPROVENANCE

THE ALL
AMERICAN
DINER,
New Delhi

No organic ingredients are used.


Almost everything, including the pork
products, is procured locally. Some
imported vegetables are sourced from
local suppliers.

QWHAT TO DRINK
Part of the artsy India Habitat Centre,
the All American Diner is located
adjacent to a lush lawn and offers
indoor as well as al fresco seating.
From the black and white chequered
oor and booth-style seating to the
memorabilia adorning the walls and the
casual, friendly service, the restaurant
is reminiscent of an old fashioned
American diner.
It opened in 2002, when breakfast
fare like pancakes and waffles were
either not available in Delhi or limited
to coffee shops at ve star hotels.
Steering clear of fancier options like
Eggs Benedict and Florentine, The
All American Diner continues to
serve what it does best pancakes,
scrambled eggs and omelettes.

The choice includes malts and shakes,


tea and coffee, and an extensive list of
alcoholic drinks. The Healthy Start in
a Glass smoothie has more fruit than
yoghurt and hence tastes more like
juice than like a mixed fruit smoothie.
The Chocolate Milk Shake is a thick
blend of ice cream and milk, but it
can do with more chocolate. The Cold
Coffee is just right non-creamy,
strong and perfectly sweet.

Photographs SAURABH SISODIA

QTHE BREAKFAST SPREAD


We start our breakfast binge with a
banana and walnut muffin. We cant
taste the banana in the muffin but it
is warm and light with just the right
crunch from the walnuts.
While most of the breakfast
selection includes eggs in one form
or another, vegetarians have ample
choice too. The spicy cheese toast has
little triangles of white bread topped
with molten cheese mixed with nely
chopped jalapeos and bell peppers.
Served with potato crisps, this dish
is delicious any time of the day. Try
the mushrooms on toast if youre
looking for something non-cheesy. Two
unbuttered slices of wholewheat toast
are topped with a generous helping of
mushrooms in a avourful mushroom
sauce. They are served with a crisp and
non-greasy hash brown.
The popular Sunrise Skillet
comprises two pancakes, scrambled
eggs, bacon and sausages. The
scrambled eggs are done perfectly.
When we request for the bacon to be
made crispier, it is done promptly.
JULY 2013

QINSIDER TIP

Clockwise from
top: Sunrise
Skillet with
pancakes,
scrambled
eggs, bacon
and sausages;
The Ultimate
Omelette is a
popular dish;
The restaurant
is designed like
an old-style
American diner

However the accompanying pork


sausages are disappointingly bland. The
Ultimate Omelette, made with three
egg whites upon request, is uffy and
stuffed with a huge helping of sauted
chicken (or pork) sausages, onions, bell
peppers, mushrooms, cheese and ham.
Served with two slices of toast, it is very
tasty. The Belgian Waffle Combo we
try last comes with two waffles; a single
fried egg, a hash brown and grilled
tomato with cheese. While the waffles
are crisp, the batter can be a little
lighter to make them uffier.

QBESTSELLERS
Sunrise Skillet, The Ultimate Omelette,
Make Your Own Omelette, pancakes

Go for the Gluttons on the Table


offer. Valid daily from 7 am to 11 am,
this unlimited offer lets you order
anything from the breakfast menu for
` 525 per person.

QDETAILS
India Habitat Centre, Lodhi Road,
New Delhi. Tel: +91 11 4366 3162.
Timings: Daily 7am midnight.
Breads ` 75 onwards; cereal ` 110
onwards; sides ` 80 onwards; desserts
` 115 onwards.

Quality: 7/10
Choice: 7/10
Provenance: 7/10
Atmosphere: 8/10
Value: 7/10
Total: 36/50
Shibani Bawa
BBC GoodFood 91

vs
Does an average diner reach the same conclusions about a restaurant as a food pro who might
be recognised and get special treatment? Good Food reader Jaya Chaturvedi and food writer
Karen Anand have their own takes on The Flying Elephant in Chennai
THE RESTAURANT

THE PRO

Karen Anand is a
Pune-based food
writer, entrepreneur
and consultant. She
recently organised the
Indian chapter of the
international Taste
festival in Mumbai.

THE FLYING ELEPHANT


The Flying Elephant at Park Hyatt is an opulent
ne dining restaurant offering inventive Turkish,
Southeast Asian and Indian fare. It is spread over
seven levels including a private lounge area, a
vibrant al fresco dining space and six interactive
kitchens. The menu features delicacies such as
Chilean sea bass, a range of Turkish grills, Chicken
Satay with Peanut and Chilli Sauce, Chestnut
Tagliatelle, pavlovas and an eclectic list of
Prohibition-era cocktails.
QThe Flying Elephant, Park Hyatt Chennai, 39,
Velachery Road, Near Raj Bhavan, Chennai.
Tel: +91 44 71771234. Daily 7 pm onwards. Average
spend for two: ` 3,000.
Pushy table turning? No
Regular water offered? Yes
Veggie options? Plenty to choose from

92 BBC GoodFood

THE PUNTER

Jaya Chaturvedi is a
Chennai-based banker
who eats out regularly
and keeps tab of trends
in food and dining.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS

THE SERVICE

Much has been written about


The Flying Elephant since its
launch in March this year. Given
the whacky name, the press blitz
and Hyatts reputation for great
food, my expectations are high.
But The Flying Elephant is quite
different. Boasting six interactive
kitchens and a culinary theatre, it
resembles Studio 54 in New York:
a multistoried vision in glass with
seating, bars and open kitchens
on all oors and staff that belt out
the chorus of a popular song. Its a
happening place that could well be
in NYC something I least expect
to nd in Chennai. It is calculated
carelessness in an orchestrated
ve-star sort of way, and it works.

As expected, the service


is efcient with wellinformed managers
on hand and chefs
happy to step out of
their designated areas
to help you navigate
through the food menu
and speakeasy-inspired
cocktail menu.

The restaurant, located at the


lobby level of the Park Hyatt, is
exquisitely designed. Spanning
multiple levels, the lowermost
one is a lounge area while the
rest exudes a very casual vibe.
The outdoor seating is lovely but
tends to get a bit warm during the
Chennai summer. The tables in the
lounge remind me of a warm and
cosy English bar, but the DJ belting
out club tracks is a bit of a damp
squib and the soundtrack does
not complement the otherwise
charming ambience at all.

The service is a tad


lacklustre, though the staff
is extremely courteous.
There is a need for more
efciency it takes me
quite a few minutes to
catch a servers eye for
something as simple as
a rell of ice and we are
left to fend for ourselves
in the interim. The service
doesnt keep pace with the
pleasant ambience and
doesnt justify the money
that one has to shell out
for a meal.

JULY 2013

eat out
restaurant reviews

Pane
Pa
n er tik
kka
k

Mu
uss
ssel
els
s wi
with
t whi
h te
te win
ine,
ine
e, chi
h ll
llii,
fe
enne
el, garlic and parrsl
sley
ey
y

Signature chocolate cake

THE FOOD

THE VERDICT

THE BILL

This is really where The Flying Elephant reigns supreme. If you can get past
the theatrics of the vertical dining, the blanket of glass and staff singing away,
the food is outstanding. There are tasting menus for the uninitiated. The
menu itself is simple enough appetisers, soups, vegetarian main courses,
shellsh, pizza, poultry and so on. I share the Peruvian Green Asparagus with
Trufe Salsa and Parmigiano Reggiano shavings. Priced close to ` 1,000, it
isnt cheap but is perfectly executed: thick batons of juicy green asparagus are
lightly grilled and the trufe salsa isnt overpowering. We also try the Pan Fried
Calamari with Chorizo, Artichokes and Bell Peppers. It reminds me of southern
Spanish tapas. The raw artichokes are thinly sliced, lightly grilled and drizzled
with a little olive oil. The quality is superb and the simplicity, stunning. For
mains, I have the Pan Fried Chilean Sea Bass with Fresh Fennel and a Lemon
Sabayon, which tastes like a light hollandaise emulsion. The portion is large
for such an expensive sh but is so delicious and so perfectly cooked that I
actually manage to nish it! No room for sides, cereals or any dessert. Instead, I
treat myself to another cocktail. The Fallen Angel, with champagne, elderower
liqueur and lychee is a winner. I then try Happily Ever After, a long drink with
crushed grapes, Chardonnay and Absolut vodka.

The food is outstanding


and the ambience is
highly charged and
especially exciting on a
Saturday night. However,
the food is not the lone
star here the overall
happening vibe shines
as well.

Anands meal for two including


two cocktails, appetisers and
a main course was ` 4,000
excluding taxes.

The restaurant serves Indian, Mediterranean and European cuisine. We


Dining at The Flying
order the Warm Mezze Platter that includes stuffed phyllo, zucchini fritters,
Elephant doesnt live
falafels, dips and pita bread. The falafels are crisp and make for an excellent
up to my expectations.
accompaniment to the pita bread. The zucchini fritters are my pick from this
While the ambience
platter, which has great avours but is not innovative enough. For mains, my
is excellent and the
companion orders Chicken Biryani that is very sportingly prepared by the
food is reasonably
chef, even though it is not listed on the menu. It is avourful and perfectly
good, the service is
spiced. We also order the Paneer with Spinach and Pistachio in a Roasted
average. The menu
Onion Gravy, which is creamy and delicious. The fresh avour of the spinach
largely leans towards
is complemented by the earthiness of the pistachios and the richness of the
European cuisine, and
onion gravy. The Dal Makhani is creamy but needs more spice. The dessert,
offers more variety
however, is awless. The Tiramisu is perfect, with the coffee and mascarpone
to a non-vegetarian
in perfect harmony. Overall, the food appears appetising and tastes good too,
than a vegetarian. The
but is slightly bland for those who
club music is
Want to review a restaurant?
have a preference for spicy fare.
denitely a
For a chance to become Good Foods
Though the avours are perfect,
mood killer.
next punter, email a 200-word review
no dish grabs my attention and the
of any restaurant youve visited,
waitstaff are not forthcoming with
with the heading Pro vs Punter, to
bbcgoodfood@wwm.co.in with your
suggestions either.

FOOD: 9/10
ATMOSPHERE: 8/10
SERVICE: 8/10
TOTAL: 25/30
GO AGAIN?
For sure!

Chaturvedis meal for two


including an appetiser, two
mains and a dessert was
` 3,000 excluding taxes.

FOOD: 6/10
ATMOSPHERE: 9/10
SERVICE: 6/10
TOTAL: 21/30
GO AGAIN?
Not really. It is too expensive,
the food is average and the
service slow.

contact details. You could be the


lucky one!
JULY 2013

BBC GoodFood 93

Classic Andhra meals

The National Lodge


A part of Chennais cityscape for over 60 years, National Lodge enjoys a shrine-like status among
seekers of home-style vegetarian Andhra cuisine
Words ASHWIN RAJAGOPALAN Photographs VINAY ARAVIND

Patrons line up for


National Lodges
authentic Andhra fare

94 BBC GoodFood

JULY 2013

eat out
off the eaten track

ts almost impossible to conne


SN Deepak to his tiny cabin for
more than 15 minutes. Thats
about the same time his waitstaff
take to nish serving a ve-course meal
and get the next diner in front of a fresh
green banana leaf. Its been exactly
61 years since Deepaks maternal
grandfather, Kota Ethirajulu set up
National Lodge in Chennai. Today, it
continues to be a refuge for both locals
as well as visitors from Andhra Pradesh
seeking an authentic, home-style
vegetarian Andhra banana leaf meal.
Having been a part of Chennais
cityscape for so long, National Lodge
has been witness to the citys evolution.
When it opened in 1952, the state of
Andhra Pradesh hadnt yet been carved
out of the Madras Presidency. In north
Madras, thanks to proximity to the
present day Andhra border, Tamil and
Telugu identities merged seamlessly.
To this day, the citys unique brand of
Madras Tamil is generously ecked
with Telugu words.
This was a time when a community
called the Komti Chettys ruled the
roost in the citys trading and nancial
circles. Although this enterprising
community shares its name with
another trading community from Tamil
Nadu the wealthy Chettiars the
similarity ends there. The Chettiars
trace their roots to southern Tamil
Nadu and their cuisine is best known

where the British Empire in India took


wings. Although it is no longer a retail
hub, it continues to be the trading and
wholesale focal point of the city. The
area hasnt changed in decades its
almost impossible to nd a parking
spot anywhere and even more difficult
to tread these historical streets on
foot.Yet, its obscure location amidst
electrical stores that cram the narrow
Govindappa Naicken Street in George
Town doesnt deter people from all
corners of Andhra Pradesh from
making the trip to National Lodge.
Although the lodge has 35 non airconditioned rooms targeted primarily
at businessmen and traders, the
mainstay of the enterprise is clearly the
boarding. While the full meals cost 4
annas (or 25 paise) back in 1952, you
can now buy the same meal for ` 70 or
` 95, depending whether you choose
to sit in the non air-conditioned or the
air-conditioned dining area. Until his
demise in 1994, Kota Ethirajulu ran
the business in his hands-on style. The
baton was then passed directly to his
grandsons Deepak and Dwarak. We
havent changed anything and run
the place just like our grandfather did.
The basic formula continues to be our
grandmothers recipes and thats what
brings diners back says Deepak.
The restaurants layout is a maze
just like the streets that make up
George Town. There are a total of 84

Even with just over 80 seats, National


Lodge manages to clock more than a 1000
meals per day. The restaurants traditional
base has also grown to include staunchly
vegetarian Marwari businessmen
for its meaty delicacies while the Komti
Chettys are avowed vegetarians who
hail from modern Andhra Pradesh.
Most of the streets in George Town,
where National Lodge is located, take
their names from illustrious members
of the Komti Chetty community. From
textiles to steel, each street has its
special niche. George Town is located
close to Fort St George, which is
JULY 2013

The restaurant occupies pride of


place in Chennais George Town area

The accompaniments
change daily

The sambar also varies


according to the day of the week

Brothers Dwarak and


Deepak run the show

seats spread out in a haphazard manner


across oors. So if you are looking at
bonding with your companion over
lunch, this is clearly not the place. The
service sequence is more action-packed
than a Telugu or Tamil potboiler.Your
banana leaf will be full even before you
roll up your sleeves. Like quite a few
banana leaf meals in south India, this
one also starts on a sweet note. Theres
BBC GoodFood 95

eat out
off the eaten track

Keeping tabs on the


thriving daily business

WHAT
WE
LIKE
The gunpowder
is truly special
and assumes
an even
more piquant
flavour once
blended with
the tamarind
chutney and
decadent
homemade
ghee. The
restaurant
also sells this
signature
gunpowder in
sealed packets.
These serve
as excellent
reminders of
your meal.

96 BBC GoodFood

The spicy gunpowder


is a house special

a traditional sweet dish on the menu


everyday usually a sweet pongal (a
rice dish made with milk and jaggery)
or rava kesari (semolina pudding).
Deepak is convinced it was his
grandfather who coined the term
gunpowder to describe Andhras
most popular food item. A ubiquitous
dish on every Andhra thali, the spicy
lentil powder mixed with rice is usually
the rst course. At National Lodge,
the customary gunpowder gets an
interesting tweak. Deepak and Dwarak
egg on the uninitiated to mix the rice,
ghee and gunpowder with a chintakaya
or raw tamarind chutney and pair the
mixed rice with crunchy raw onions.
The base for this tangy tamarind
chutney is made every November and
stored in large vats in the restaurants
dim storage area. The traditional
avakkai or spicy, Andhra-style mango
pickle is also mass produced in May.
Each meal has ve accompaniments
a stir-fried vegetable preparation
called the thalimpu; a deep-fried
appalam or papad; a pappu or
dal; chutney and a raita. These
accompaniments are rotated according
to a daily schedule that regulars keep
track of. The sambar of the day is

An array of chutneys
add flavour to the meal

dynamic as well. One of the bi-weekly


specials is the vada sambar that keeps
the loyalists coming back for more.
The sambar is the rst of ve courses
that include a rasam, challa chaaru (or
spiced buttermilk) and a guddilu pulusu
(or a spicy vegetable gravy). The last
course is reserved for palate cleansing
curd rice paired with a ery stuffed and
fried chilli, christened an atom bomb
by the restaurants founder.
Even with just over 80 seats,
National Lodge manages to
comfortably clock more than a 1,000
meals every single day. The service
team has the onerous task of turning
around tables in record speed without
compromising on the warmth that
diners have come to expect here. The
restaurants traditional base has grown
beyond just Telugu-speaking diners to
include most of the areas staunchly
vegetarian Marwari businessmen.
Its almost impossible to nd a seat
here on a Saturday most of the
markets in the area work on credit and
cash payments are typically made on
Saturdays. But the teeming crowds
havent tempted the owners to get
ambitious with the pricing. We always
want to appeal to our loyal audience

and will continue to operate on thin


margins, asserts Dwarak.
Its this philosophy of contentment
that has deterred the brothers from
expanding or franchising the brand.
A smaller, satellite outlet with 44 seats
opened on Mount Road, Chennais
most famous arterial road, about
10 years ago and thats as far as the
brothers want to go. However, since
that branch doesnt have a kitchen, all
the dishes are transported from George
Town. Both Dwarak and Deepak
spend an intense four hours at the
restaurant during lunch and one of
them returns for a quick visit at dinner.
The dine-in option is not available
on Sundays but its not unusual to
nd serpentine queues outside the
restaurant around lunchtime for a
meal parcel. National Lodge also sells
packed meals that feed close to 1,500
people every Sunday. Its clear that this
Chennai institution is showing no signs
of slowing down. Thanks to its avourpacked food, the legacy of the Komti
Chetty community continues to stay
alive in the city.
Address: 235, Govindappa
Naicken Street, George Town,
Chennai. Tel: +91 44 2536 9397.
JULY 2013

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eat out
restaurant recipe
Helmed by chef-proprietor Nira
Singh, the elegant Chez Nini is a
brasserie offering French-Canadian
cuisine. Located in Delhis
Meherchand Market, a humungous,
glowing metal tree takes centre
stage at this charming restaurant,
which exudes a casual, laidback
vibe. The menu showcases
authentic, flavourful dishes like
French onion soup, a hearty Coq au
Vin prepared using the sous vide
method, Duck Confit, scrumptious
meatloaves, crispy croquettes
and a range of cold cuts, artisanal
breads and petit gateaux.

Signature dish

Chez Nini
Poutine
Serves 4 Q1 hour 40 minutes +
overnight freezing Q MODERATELY
EASY
THE FRENCH FRIES
potatoes 2 large
sunflower oil 3l
THE FIVE SPICE MIX (grind these
together in a spice grinder)
coriander seeds 1 tsp, toasted
black peppercorn 1 tsp
coarse salt 1 tsp
yellow mustard seeds 1 tsp, toasted
cumin 1 tsp, toasted
dried garlic cloves 1 tsp, chopped
THE GRAVY
butter 5 tbsp
onions 10 medium
white wine vinegar 2 tbsp
vegetable stock
onion powder 1 tsp
salt to taste
THE CHEESE CURD
raw milk 1.8l
lemon juice or white vinegar 1/4 cup
kosher salt 1 tsp
QTo make the fries, peel and cut the
potatoes to about 1/4-inch wide chunks.
Add them to salted water and bring to
98 BBC GoodFood

a boil. Bring down to a simmer and cook


the fries through completely.
QOnce they are cooked through, strain
them and lay them onto a cloth-lined
tray. Refrigerate overnight to dry.
QThe next day fry the fries to a light
brown colour, strain and lay out on a
tray again. Freeze. Once cooled, they are
ready to fry. Season with the spice mix.
QFor the gravy, melt the butter in a
heavy-bottomed pan and cook the
onions until light golden brown in colour.
Add the vinegar, heat until the liquid
boils, lower the heat and simmer until
the liquid has reduced by half.
QAdd the stock, onion powder and salt,
then lower heat to a simmer and reduce
for about 10 minutes. Strain through a
mesh strainer.
QTo make the cheese curd, pour the
milk into a saucepan. Heat on medium
until almost scalded, but do not boil. Stir
occasionally to ensure even heating.
Remove from heat when a skin starts to
form on the surface of the milk, or small
bubbles form around the edge of the pan.
Allow to cool for a couple of minutes.
QAdd lemon juice or white vinegar. Stir
gently but completely. Stop stirring and
watch the hot milk separate into the
curds and whey. Allow to cool further.

QLine the sieve with a few layers of


cheesecloth. Pour the curds and whey
through the sieve to catch the curds.
Discard the whey.
QUnwrap the curd. Add the salt to
the curd and stir thoroughly. Fold the
cheesecloth over the top of the salted
curds with your hands. Enclose the
curds tightly in the cheesecloth. Top
the cheesecloth-wrapped bundle with
a plate. Place a can (used as weight) on
top of the plate. Place the bowl in the
refrigerator and allow the curd to sit
under the weight overnight.
QRemove the curd from the
cheesecloth. Pull gently into large
pieces with your hands. You now have
fresh cheese curds for the poutine.
QBefore serving, pile the fries on a
plate. Top with the cheese curds and
then pour the gravy.
JULY 2013

eat away
Fabulous foodie destinations from around the world. Go on a food trip!
IN THIS ISSUE
7Eat like a local: Vietnam, p 134
7Postcard from Singapore, p 140

Noodle soup is a way


of life in Vietnam p 135

eat like a local

VIETNAM
With its perfect balance of hot, sweet, spicy and sour elements, Vietnams
stunning food is best enjoyed on its chaotic streets

Text, recipes and photographs adapted from VIETNAMESE STREET FOOD and KOTO: A CULINARY JOURNEY
THROUGH VIETNAM by TRACEY LISTER and ANDREAS POHL Photographs by MICHAEL FOUNTOULAKIS
Published by HARDIE GRANT BOOKS

t is often said that life in


Vietnam happens on the streets.
This is particularly true in
the overcrowded inner cities,
where it sometimes seems that the
Vietnamese conduct their daily life, if
not exclusively on the sidewalk, then in
plain view of the streets. Eating on the
street also plays an important part in
daily life.
The Vietnamese version of alfresco
dining is such a natural extension of
street life, so widespread and common,
that it is easy to overlook how fairly
recent the phenomenon of the so-called
com bui, literally dust meals, really is.
Traditionally, family meals at home
were sacred, but historical upheavals
and changes in work practices created
an eating culture with roving food
vendors and street stalls to feed the
hungry masses away from their houses.
The wars for national independence
against the French and the Americans
from 1945 to 1975 displaced scores of
people. These changes revolutionised
not only the way the country was run,
but also the way the country ate.
Kerbside dining ts Vietnams
collectivist culture of doing things
together. Eating alone is frowned upon.
Even if one eats alone, one isnt lonely,
but connected to fellow diners and the
surrounding community.
The shift from eating at home or in
more upmarket restaurants to casual
kerbside dining also marks a transition

100 BBC GoodFood

from a feudal, class-ridden society to a


more equal one a new society where
peasants and civil servants, students
and shop owners can share a bench and
slurp their noodle soups side by side.
Pho bo or beef noodle soup is
probably the closest the country has to
a national dish. Said to have originated
in the northern Nam Dinh province, it
consists of rice noodles in a rich broth,
topped with nely sliced beef, shallots,
beansprouts, basil and a generous
dollop of chilli sauce. Pho with chicken
(pho ga) was initially considered a soup
for women and children, and before
1945, only one stall in Hanoi made
pho ga. Nowadays, the soup is a wellloved alternative to the heavy pho bo,
particularly during summer. Although
pho is originally a northern Vietnamese
dish, it has been adopted by the south
and the recipes changed in the process.
Hot on the heels of pho is the bun
cha chargrilled pork patties oating in
a tangy dipping sauce, served with cold
vermicelli (bun) and an assortment of
herbs and salad leaves. It is often served
with nem ran, fried spring rolls, on a
separate plate. While pho is traditionally
a breakfast or early dinner, bun cha
rmly occupies the lunchtime slot.
The French left Vietnam in 1954,
but they left behind an enduring love
for fresh, crusty baguettes, banh mi.
Here, baguettes are made from a wheat
and rice our mixture, which results
in very airy bread that has a thin, crisp

MENU FOR 6
7Noodle soup with
chicken
7Green mango salad
7Lemongrass tofu
7Caramel fish with
galangal
7Fruit cups

Noodle soup with


chicken
KOTO: A Culinary
Journey through
Vietnam is
available from
flipkart.com for
` 2,006.
Vietnamese
Street Food is
available from
amazon.com for
` 1,120.

Serves 6 Q1 hour 10 minutes +


simmering QEASY
Pho ga was invented during the
Japanese occupation in the 1940s
when beef was very hard to come by,
which is why this dish is sometimes
considered the poor cousin of the more
famous beef noodle soup, pho bo. This
is a lighter, easier variation of pho.
red Asian shallots 8
ginger, a 4cm knob, halved
whole chicken 1.6kg
salt 1 tsp
cinnamon 1 stick
star anise 4
sugar 2 tbsp
fish sauce 1 tbsp (try Ayam available at
gourmet stores)
noodles 300g, raw
spring onions 3, sliced + 3, cut into
strips
JULY 2013

eat away
Vietnam

Pho bo or beef noodle


soup is loved by all

No
oo
od
dle
le soup
oup wi
witth chi
hick
ck
ken
n

Caramel fish
with galangal

A local stall heaped


with fresh artichokes

onion 1/2, thinly sliced


coriander leaves a handful
kaffir lime leaves 4, cut into thin strips
lime 1, cut into wedges
red chilli 1, nely sliced
fish sauce to serve (try Ayam available
at gourmet stores)

Groundnuts and other


produce on sale
crust and looks like an oversized, rectangular roll. The bread
is peddled by roving street vendors carrying bamboo baskets
covered with burlap sacks to keep the baguettes warm, or
from street stalls. The banh mi is particularly popular in Ho
Chi Minh City, where vendors cram them full of delicious
llings, ranging from a whole array of cold meats, to omelette
and sh patties, all spiced with pickles, sh sauce and chilli.
Rice features in virtually every Vietnamese meal. The
grain is a true culinary all-rounder. It can be steamed, boiled
or fried, turned into our, paste, paper or noodles, and it can
even be made into a powerful wine, ruou. Rice paper rolls
form the basis of Vietnams most famous contribution to
world cuisine: the spring roll. Much variation can be found in
this seemingly simple dish in Vietnam. Hanois cigar-shaped
spring rolls are a hearty and lling affair, stuffed with a rich
crab-and-pork mixture and fried until crispy. In Hue, spring
rolls are served with a lling of sweet potatoes, wrapped in
fresh rice paper, and topped with prawns. And in the south,
where the food is sweet and tropical, spring rolls are lled with
sh, pineapple and cucumber.
Vietnamese street food culture remains a bastion of
cultural identity against culinary globalisation. Despite the
advent of food chains in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi,
and the disappearance of traditional markets, stalls on every
corner continue to offer the uniquely Vietnamese version of
fast food cheap and cheerful, fresh and nutritious, seasonal
and local, for a people perpetually on the move.
102 BBC GoodFood

QChargrill the shallots and ginger over


a barbecue or gas burner for about 5
minutes, or until fragrant.
QWash the chicken under cold running
water. Place it in a saucepan, cover
with cold water and add salt. Slowly
bring to the boil, removing any scum
that rises to the surface. Immediately
reduce the heat, then add the shallots,
ginger, cinnamon stick and star anise to
the pan and gently simmer for 1 hour,
regularly skimming the surface. To
ensure a clear broth and moist, tender
meat, do not boil the chicken.
QRemove the chicken from the broth.
The juices should run clear when a
skewer is inserted into the thigh. Set
aside to rest while you prepare the
broth.
QStrain the broth through a ne sieve
and discard the aromatics. Return
6 cups of the broth to the saucepan
and add the sugar and sh sauce.
Gently simmer over low heat while you
prepare the chicken and noodles.
QCut the breasts and legs from the
chicken. Remove all the meat from the
bones and slice it into strips.
QBring a large saucepan of water to
the boil and cook the noodles for about
20 seconds, stirring with chopsticks to
separate them. Drain the noodles and
then divide them among six bowls.
QPlace the chicken on top of the
noodles and then add the spring
onions, white onion, coriander and lime
leaf. Ladle in the hot broth. Serve with
the lime, chilli and sh sauce.

Green mango salad


Serves 6 Q35 minutes QEASY
In the tropical south, mangoes grow in
abundance. This is a classic Vietnamese
salad and is quite rightly one of the
countrys most recognised dishes. It
is a great example of the balance of

flavours on which Vietnamese cuisine


is based.
vegetable oil 150ml, for frying
beef fillet 900g, fat and sinew
removed
green mangoes 6, peeled and sliced
into strips
beansprouts 300g
red Asian shallots 12, thinly sliced
red chillies 3, deseeded and nely
sliced
garlic cloves 3, chopped
coriander sprigs a handful, roughly
chopped
unsalted peanuts 9 tbsp, roasted,
chopped
shallots 6 tbsp, fried, to garnish
THE DRESSING
caster sugar 175g (try Tate & Lyle
available at gourmet stores)
lime juice 150ml
fish sauce 4 1/2 tbsp (try Ayam
available at gourmet stores)
QHeat the oil in a frying pan over
medium heat and cook the beef llet
for 3 minutes, or until browned all over
and medium rare. Remove from the
pan and allow to rest for 10 minutes
before thinly slicing it.
QCombine the mango in a bowl with
the beansprouts, red shallots, chillies,
garlic, coriander, peanuts and beef
slices.
QFor the dressing, combine the sugar,
lime juice and sh sauce, stirring until
the sugar has dissolved. Pour the
dressing over the salad ingredients and
toss gently. Serve in a bowl sprinkled
with the fried shallots.

Lemongrass tofu
Serves 6 Q45 minutes + standing time
QEASY
Tofu readily absorbs other flavours
and it is used to its best advantage
in this dish with a simple marinade
of lemongrass, garlic and chilli. When
storing tofu, make sure you change the
water daily to maintain its freshness.
firm tofu 900g (try Mori-Nu available
at gourmet stores)
JULY 2013

eat away
Vietnam

Colourful ethnic
decorations

Green mango salad

Lemongrass tofu

A streetside vendor
sells strawberries

lemongrass stems 3, white part only,


roughly chopped
garlic cloves 4, roughly chopped
red chillies 3, roughly chopped
salt 1/2 tsp
caster sugar 1/3 tsp (try Tate & Lyle
available at gourmet stores)
vegetable oil for frying
THE SOY AND CHILLI DIPPING
SAUCE
soy sauce 90ml
lime 1/2, juiced
caster sugar 1/2 tsp (try Tate & Lyle
available at gourmet stores)
red chilli 1, thinly sliced

Makeshift eateries by the roadside


can be found all over Vietnam

MINI-GUIDETO VIETNAM
EAT
QDrop by the family-run Pho Huyen (31, Chau
Long, Ba Dinh, Hanoi) a street side stall in the
national capital to savour the taste of authentic
pho ga (chicken noodle soup).
QHead to local TV personality and
octogenarian Pham Bangs stall (Hang Giay
Street, Hanoi) for banh troi sweet dumplings
made using rice our. Bang makes two types of
dumplings: one lled with grated coconut, the
other with black sesame seeds.
QAt Citadel Hotel (32, Truong Chinh Street,
Hue) in the southern Vietnamese city of Hue,
the cordial Mrs Ho puts her in-depth knowledge
of Hue cuisine to good use, and assisted by her
daughter, she produces elaborate 10-course
feasts in an impossibly small kitchen.

DO
QVisit the famous Old Quarter in Hanoi a
rabbit warren of 36 narrow streets and even
narrower lanes. All the streets are named after
whats selling in the shops, for example, Silk, Toy
and Bamboo streets.
QDrop by the famous December 19 market
in Hanoi, also known as the Ghost Market as
it was built on the site of a war cemetery for
Vietnamese who died in the 1946 uprising.
Shop for knobby lime-green gourds, spiky red
rambutans and prehistoric-looking dragon fruit.
QStop at one of the many bia hois street-side
watering holes selling cheap fresh beer called

bia tuoi across Hanoi. The pub grub served in


bia hoi includes boiled peanuts, very salty dried
cuttlesh and nem chua or raw sour pork eaten
with a chilli-based dipping sauce.

MINI ESCAPES
QCha Ca La Vong has evolved from its humble
street food beginnings at the end of the 19th
Century into a small restaurant and a Hanoi
institution. The only dish that has ever been
served in Cha Ca La Vongs long history is
pan-fried Red River sh with turmeric, dill and
peanuts on cold vermicelli noodles. The current
proprietor, Ms Loc, is rumoured to be the only
person who knows the secret recipe for the
unique turmeric marinade, which she learned
from her mother-in-law in the early 1970s.
QWith a length of more than 4,500 km, the
Mekong is one of the worlds largest rivers.
The Mekong delta is crowded with boats of
all shapes and sizes transporting produce.
Laden with mountains of mangoes, jackfruit
and pineapples, these boats crowd together
on early mornings at the Cai Rang floating
market, near the city of Can Tho in southern
Vietnam. This is a wholesome market where
farmers from surrounding villages bring their
produce to sell to stallholders from the smaller
local markets throughout the city or to the food
factories on the riverbanks for distribution to
the rest of Vietnam.

QWith a sharp knife, score the surface


of the tofu in lines about 1cm apart.
Cut the tofu into 4-5cm pieces and set
aside.
QPut the lemongrass, garlic, chilli, salt
and sugar into a mortar. Pound with a
pestle to form a coarse paste.
QRub the paste onto the tofu pieces
and sit for 20 minutes, to allow the tofu
to absorb the avours.
QHeat the oil in a frying pan over high
heat. When hot, add the tofu pieces
and reduce the heat to medium to
prevent the marinade from burning.
Cook the tofu for 23 minutes on each
side, or until a light golden brown.
QTo make the dipping sauce, combine
the soy, lime juice and sugar in a
bowl, mixing until the sugar dissolves.
Transfer to individual dipping bowls
and add the chilli.
QTransfer the tofu to a serving platter
and serve with the dipping sauce.

Caramel sh with
galangal
Serves 6 Q45 minutes + marinating
QEASY
This dish is prepared using carp at
roadside stops in the Mekong Delta.
Along Vietnams almost 3,000 km
coastline, it is made with mackerel. This
version uses galangal and coconut milk,
and is typical of the southern beach
town of Nha Trang.
mackerel fillets 12, approx 2-3cm thick
red Asian shallots 3, nely diced

eat away
Vietnam
fish sauce 2 1/2 tbsp (try Ayam
available at gourmet stores)
black pepper 1/4 tsp, freshly ground
sugar 1 1/2 tbsp
oil for frying
coconut milk 150ml
galangal a 3cm knob, peeled and cut
into thin strips
red chilli 1, cut into 5mm rings
black pepper a pinch + extra, freshly
ground
spring onions 4, sliced
coriander sprigs a handful
QCombine the mackerel with the
shallots, 1 tbsp of the sh sauce and the
pepper and set aside to marinate for
20 minutes.
QMeanwhile, put the sugar and 1 1/2
tbsp water in a heavy-based saucepan
over medium heat and stir until the
sugar has dissolved. Bring to the boil
and then cook until the sugar attains
a rich golden colour. Pour in 250ml
of water, standing away from the pan.
When the spluttering has stopped, stir
until the caramel sauce is smooth.
QPreheat the oven to 180C. Heat oil
in a frying pan and brown the mackerel
on both sides. Add the caramel sauce,
coconut milk, galangal, chilli and the
remaining sh sauce. Bring to the boil,
then remove from the heat.
QTransfer the sh and sauce to a clay
pot or casserole dish, cover and bake
for 10 minutes. Remove the lid and
bake for a further 45 minutes.
QServe the sh in the clay pot,
sprinkled with the extra pepper, spring
onions and coriander.

Fruit cups
Serves 6 Q15 minutes QEASY
The fondness of the Vietnamese for
sweetened condensed milk is another
culinary legacy of colonial rule. Dairy
giant Royal Friesland Foods, one of
Vietnams biggest milk producers,
for example, is able to trace back its
involvement with the region to 1924,
when they first imported 150 cartons
of canned, sweetened milk for the
homesick French in Hanoi.

JULY 2013

mixed seasonal fruits 1kg, diced


mint 1 tbsp, chopped
crushed ice 2 cups
thick plain yoghurt 600g
coconut milk 6 tbsp
sweetened condensed milk 1 1/2 tbsp
mint sprigs 6
QPut the diced fruit and chopped
mint in a large bowl and toss gently
to combine. Put the crushed ice in the
bottom of six tall glasses, then spoon in
the fruit.
QCombine the yoghurt, coconut milk
and condensed milk in a jug, then pour
over the fruit. Serve garnished with the
mint sprigs.

MUST BUY
CELLOPHANE NOODLES Made
from starch, these skinny noodles
are produced from mung beans.
Also known as glass noodles.
SESAME RICE CRACKERS
Usually dipped in salads and
stir-fries, these thin rice crackers
topped with black and white
sesame seeds also make a great
snack.
WOOD EAR MUSHROOMS Mildtasting and chewy, they can be
purchased fresh or dried.
TAPIOCA FLOUR Fine our
made from the root of the
cassava plant, it is favoured for its
high starch content.

MENU DECODER
CHE This thick, sweet drink
consists of layer upon layer of
red kidney beans, lotus seeds and
crushed mung beans, served over
shaved rice with coconut milk.
GREEN RICE Young, sticky rice
scented with pandan leaf, it is
used to give pork mince a silken
texture or sh cakes a crispy
coating when fried.
BANH HOI Very ne noodles
with delicate strands interwoven
into small squares, they are
served cold, often topped with
roasted or barbecued meats.

Fruit cups

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
QA typical family dinner in Vietnam would consist of rice
plus two or three other dishes: most likely braised meat
such as caramelised pork, some stir-fried water spinach (rua
muong), and possibly a salad such as banana ower salad.
The family gathers around communal bowls or plates lled
with food placed in the centre of the table or on a round tray
on the oor. Family members then help themselves, topping
the rice in their individual bowls with morsels picked up from
the communal dishes. And at the end of the meal, when all
the dishes have been eaten, they polish off the remaining rice
with a light broth called canh.
QThe com binh dan (literally, food for the working people),
is probably best described as a Vietnamese lunch buffet. At
these street side eateries, staff heap mounds of steamed
rice onto plates. Diners then select what they would like to
have piled on top of the rice, usually choosing from a dozen
or more trays of pre-prepared dishes. The cost of the meal
depends on what and how much was ordered. Food choices
range from the very simple, such as roasted, salted peanuts
or the ubiquitous xao mong (sauted water spinach), to more
elaborate fare such as sh in caramel sauce and beef in betel
leaf. It pays to arrive early, as com binh dan eateries often
run out of the more popular dishes. Also, there are usually no
bain-maries, thus an early lunch means a warm lunch.
BBC GoodFood 105

RA
RASAPU
Photograph courtesy

Singapore
Karen Anand waxes delicious from the World Street Food
Congress in Singapore
Words KAREN ANAND

RLD STREET

Food writer,
entrepreneur
and gourmet,
Karen Anand
has journeyed
across
the world
writing about
gastronomy.

Photograph KAREN ANA


ND

RESS
FOOD CONG

At the World Street Food jamboree,


the stalls are varied and the portions
are tasting-size but very reasonably
priced between 3 to 16 SGD per plate.
Singapores famous dishes such as
rojak (a sweet-spicy fruit and vegetable
salad) chicken rice, bak kut the (a soup
made of pork ribs) and curry puff,
are all available under one roof. It is
interesting to note that the Asam laksa
from Malaysia (more sour and shy
than its Singaporean counterpart) is
represented here, and not the famous
Singaporean version. Theres plenty
from across Asia too mee siam (sour
seafood and noodles with sambal)
from Malacca, nasi ulam (aromatic
rice with mackerel and coconut, which
is difficult to nd outside Peranakan
homes), hoy tordd (crispy seafood

courtesy WO
Photograph

am in Singapore to attend the


Singapore Street Food Congress
(wsfcongress.com), an initiative
by Makansutra, the organisation
headed by renowned television
personality and self-confessed food
buff KF Seetoh. He has been actively
trying to promote the citys hawkers
and street food culture in an attempt to
encourage them to continue and even
expand. (Alas, some old timers have
shut shop, as I nd out, on account
of high rentals and family members
unwilling to continue the trade.) Its
a 10 day-long extravaganza featuring
street food from 10 countries, spread
out across 37 stalls, demos and talks at
the not-so-glamorous but convenient
F1 Paddock and Pit building next to
the Singapore Flyer. He has roped in
celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain and
Saveurr editor and Top Chef judge,
James Oseland, along with Singapore
Tourism and several culinary institutes.
All of this adds heft to the event.

pancakes) from Bangkok (the owner


of the stall has been cooking this dish
from a cart along Sukhumvit Soi 55
for over 40 years) and banh da tom
hai phong seafood noodles from
Vietnam that are quite a mouthful.
India is well represented with batata
puri, pav bhajii and chicken 65.
However, the American entries such
as shrimp and grits and smothered
chicken dont really do much for me
with all the spice around.
I love the local food and am
trying to taste as much of it as I can
despite the occasional downpour.
Not surprisingly, the locals go for the
American and Mexican street food on
offer, such as crunchy tostadas, the soft
shell crab burger from the EuroTrash
Food Cart from Portland, Oregon and
the very popular porchetta (or pork
belly) from an American food truck
called the Peoples Pig. The pork belly
is brined overnight, then roasted for
four hours so that the fat is rendered
and you are left with a lovely, crisp
crackling. It is sprinkled with fennel
pollen, the new buzzword in Singapore,
and served in a ciabatta sandwich with
arugula. I taste many familiar avours
treated a little differently in every Asian
corner, such as Indonesian kerak telor, a
roadside rice pancake with egg topped
with dried shrimp. Dried shrimp
is an ingredient common to Thai,
Singaporean and Malay dishes and is
used to lend depth of avour to dishes.
Hoy tordd or oyster and clam omelettes

from
fr
om
omT
m Tha
haililan
illan
and,
d a qui
d,
uint
ntes
nt
esseent
es
ntia
iall ro
ia
road
adsi
ad
side
si
dee
sn
nac
ack,
k, aree alsso re
repr
pres
pr
esen
es
esen
nte
ted.
d The
d.
here
re is a
plet
pl
etho
et
hora
ho
ra of no
nood
o lees on
od
o offeer, bot
o h dr
dryy
and
an
d so
soup
upy,
up
y, from
ro
om Vi
Viet
etna
et
naam,
m,T
Tha
h illan
nd an
a d
Chin
Ch
in
na.
a My fa
favo
v ur
vo
urit
itee is the
it
h Vie
i tn
nam
messe
ba
anh
h da tom
tom ha
to
haii ph
p on
ng, a
t re
r d ri
r ce
c
nood
no
od
dle
less seervved
d in a sp
picy
iccy br
b ot
o h.
Fo
F
or th
thee la
l zy
y and
d luxur
ux
xur
uryyy--lo
lovi
vviing
ng
f od
fo
die
ie,, a pllac
acee to
t nd verry go
g od
qual
qu
alit
al
ityy lo
it
loca
caal di
dish
shes
sh
es in ai
es
airrr--co
ond
ndit
ittio
oned
ned
ne
surr
su
rrrou
rrou
ound
ndin
nd
in
ngs is Ra
Rasa
saapu
sapu
p raa at th
thee
M ri
Ma
rina
na Bay
y sho
hopp
ppin
pp
ing
in
g mall
maall (rraasaapu
pura
ra..
ra
com.
co
m.sg
m.
sg
g).
) Unl
nlik
ikke ot
othe
heer fo
h
food
o cou
od
o rtts in

whic
wh
ich
h is han
andy
dy sin
nce man
anyy ha
h wk
wker
er
stal
st
alls
al
lss in Si
Sing
Sing
ngap
apor
ap
orre ar
aree no
not op
open
en in th
he
ev
ven
enin
ings
in
gs or haave sim
impl
plyy ru
pl
run
n ou
outt of
food
fo
od!! Mo
od
Most of th
thee fo
ood staallllss he
h ree arree
aw
war
ard
d wi
w nn
nnin
in
ing
ng so it
tss di
diffic
fficcul
ultt to pic
ick.
k
k.
The di
Th
The
dish
shes
sh
es to tr
tryy ar
aree th
thee baarb
rbec
eccue
u
sseeaffoo
ood,
d, esp
d,
pec
ecia
ialllllly
ia
ly th
he st
stin
in
ngrray
a coo
o ke
ked
d
in a ban
in
nan
a a le
leaf
a an
af
nd
d serrve
ved
d wi
with
th
h

Most of the food stalls here are award winning


ones so its difficult to pick. Dishes to try are the
barbecue seafood, especially the stingray cooked
in a banana leaf and bak kut the. This is one of
my favourite Singaporean dishes a peppery
herbal soup with pork, high on avour
shop
sh
oppi
op
ping
pi
ng mallls,
ls,
ls
s, Ra
Rasa
sapu
sa
pu
p
ura is a laarg
r e,
airy
ai
ry and ple
ry
leas
asan
as
ant
an
nt sp
spacce that
th
haatt loo
ooks
ks likke a
vev
e-st
estar
a coff
ar
offee
ee sho
h p
p.. Som
omee of the oth
her
er
fo
ood cou
ourt
r s in
n Sin
inga
gapo
ga
apore
p re tend
po
en
nd to get
quit
qu
itee cl
it
clau
aust
au
stro
st
r ph
ro
p ob
obic
ic and
ic
d the clear
leear
lea
aran
aran
ance
nce
c
o tab
of
a le
less is
is oft
ften
en
n slo
ow.
w So
Some
mee stall
taallllss aatt
Raasa
s pu
pura
raa staay op
open
e 24 ho
en
h urrs a da
day,
y,

JULY 2013

B keet Me
Bu
M rah.
raah. Sin Kee
ees
ss chi
h ck
cken
e
en
rice
ri
cee is ma
made
d usi
de
sing
ng a fam
mililyy re
reci
ciipe
it
i fea
eatu
t res
tu
res de
delililici
ciiou
ousl
usl
slyy te
tend
nd
der
poac
po
ache
ac
hed
he
d ch
c icke
icke
ic
ken
n seerv
rved
ed witth frres
eh
ging
gi
nger
ng
er, ch
er,
hilllii gar
arliliic saauc
u e,
e swe
weet
ett
soyy an
so
and
d ch
chic
icke
kkeen br
brot
oth.
ot
h Las
h.
astl
tlly,
y, a
new
ne
w di
disc
scov
sc
over
ov
eryy wo
er
wort
rtth sa
samp
mplilil ng
mp
g
iss currry ric
icee fr
f om Haiin
naan.
n. The
n.T
vveerssio
ion
n fr
from
om Lau
u Di Fa
Fang is
Fang
ssci
c sssor cut
ut. Thi
hiss me
mean
anss th
an
t att the
he
n od
no
odle
less an
le
and
d me
meat
at are cut int
n o smal
sm
mal
alll
piec
pi
ecces
es,, wh
w ic
ich
h ma
make
kess th
ke
thee d
diish
h eas
asie
ierr
ie
to eat
at. Th
They
eyy als
lso
o ha
have
vee strree
eett fo
food
food
from
fr
om
m Mal
alay
aysi
ay
siaa (t
si
(the
h beeef re
he
rend
nd
ndan
dan
ng at
th
he n
na
asi pad
a an
angg staall is si
simp
mply
mp
l the bes
ly
est)
t),,
t)
Ital
It
tal
a y,
y Ind
n iaa, Vi
Viet
etna
et
n m an
na
nd Ja
Japa
paan, if yo
you
m na
ma
nage to te
tear
a you
ar
o rs
rsel
ellf aw
a ay fro
r m th
thee
lo
oca
cal te
cal
temp
mpta
tati
ta
t ons.
ti
on
ns.
s
Iff you
u don
nt min
ind
d an occ
ccas
asio
as
iona
io
nall
na
wild
wi
ld
d goo
o se cha
hase
se in se
sear
sear
arch
ch
h of re
real
al
sttreeet foo
ood,
d the
d,
h se are my pi
pick
ckss fr
ck
f om
m
this
th
is tri
rip.
p Mos
p.
o t of the
hem
m ar
aree si
simp
mple
mp
mple
plac
pl
lacces
e witth pl
plas
asti
as
ticc cu
ti
cutl
tler
tl
ery,
er
y, cro
rock
cker
ck
erry,
y
ch
hop
opst
stiic
st
icks,
icks
ks, ta
tabl
bles
bl
ess and cha
hair
irs.
ir
s Non
s.
onee
of the
of
the
h m iss air
ir-c
-ccon
ondi
diti
di
tion
ti
o ed
on
ed,, so
some
me
aree ttu
ar
tuck
ckked
cked
d aw
aw
waayy in
n alllleys
eyss an
ey
aand
d so
some
omee
owne
ow
ners
ne
rs don
ntt spe
p akk mucch E
Engl
En
glis
gl
ish,
is
h, but
u
t ey
th
y all offe
fferr me
memo
m ra
mo
rabl
blee ex
bl
expe
peeri
rien
e ce
en
ces,
s,
in
ntr
ntrigui
trig
igui
ig
uing
u
ng con
nveerssat
atio
ion
io
n an
nd g
grea
gr
reaat fo
food
ood
d.
Beeca
caus
usee th
us
this
is is
is
is Si
Sing
S
ngap
ng
gapore,
apor
ap
o e,
or
e, th
hey arre al
hey
a so
o
sp
pot
otle
less
le
sssly cle
l an
an..
Ch
har
ar Kw
Kwa
way
y Te
T ow
w Th
This
iiss is a d
dish
di
sh
h
of bro
road
ad,, wh
ad
whit
hit
h
ite,
iit
te,
ee, at
att rice
ric
icee noo
nood
no
odle
od
dles
les,
le
s, alo
ong
n
w th
wi
wit
h thi
hin
n ye
yellllllow
ow noo
o dl
d es
es,, ba
baby
b claams
by
ms,,
C in
Ch
Chinese
inesse sau
saus
sa
usag
u
ages
es and bea
e ns
nspr
prouts,
p
rou
outs
t , all
ts
al
al
stir
st
ir-f
-fri
fri
ried in po
ried
pork
orkk lar
ork
lar
ard
d and
an
nd a
avo

avour
vour
vo
u ed
ur
w th sh sau
wi
a ce
ce,, so
ome
meti
time
ti
mess so
me
some
me chi
h lllli,
i,
i,

Photograph court
urtes
esy
y RA
R SAPURA

AND
KAREN AN
Photograph

WORLD STRE
Photograph courtesy

SS
RESS
GR
G
ET FOOD CONG

needea
to
at know
away
news, trends, shopping
postcard

s mb
sa
mbal
all and
and
n ba
bak
k ku
kutt th
thee. Th
hiss is one
one o
of
my fav
vo
vou
ouri
ou
rite
ri
te Sin
inga
gapo
ga
pore
po
reea
rean
ean
n dis
i hes
hes a
he
larg
la
rge,
rg
ge,
e pep
e,
eppe
pery
pe
ryy herba
erba
er
ball soup
soup witth bi
so
b ts of
pork
po
pork,
rk,, hi
rk
high
gh on a
vo
vour
urr and he
healthy
ealt
ea
lthy
lt
hy to
to
boot
bo
b
ot.. Al
ot
Also
s tryy the
so
he chi
h cken
ckkeen ric
icee fr
from
om
ma
sttal
a l kn
know
know
own
n as Sin
n Kee
e , wh
whic
ich
ic
h al
also
s hass
so
an
n out
utle
lett in
le
n the
h ciitty an
a d an
anot
othe
ot
herr on
he
onee at

C oc
Cl
ockw
kwis
kw
ise
is
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fro
om
m
faci
fa
c ng pag
ci
a e:
N si pad
Na
adan
an
ng
cons
co
cons
nsis
is
sts
t of ri
rice
ce
and
an
d a va
vari
r et
ri
ety
y
of veg
eget
ettar
aria
ia
an
and
an
d me
meat
a -bas
at
-b
bas
a ed
Indo
In
done
do
ne
esi
s an
n
dish
di
shes
sh
es;; Ma
es
M ud
ude
e
Stt Kwa
way
y Te
Teow
ow
is a hol
olee-in
ein
nttheth
e-wa
e-wa
wall
ll e
eat
ater
at
a
ery;
er
ry;
y;
V si
Vi
s to
tors
rs thr
hron
o g
on
t e Wo
th
Worl
rld
rl
d St
S re
reet
et
Food
F
Fo
od
d Congress;
on
ngr
gres
ess;
es
s
Ba
ak ku
ut th
the
e at
at
Rasa
Ra
apu
pura
ra;; Lo
ra
Loo
os
o
s
is
s fa
am
amou
mo
ou
ous
us fo
or
H in
Ha
i an
anes
es
se curry
c rr
cu
rry
y
rice
ri
ce;; Po
ce
Poli
liti
li
tici
ti
cian
ci
an
S. Is
S.
swar
swaran
aran
an iin
n
co
onve
nv
ver
ersa
ersa
sati
t on
ti
on
w th Antho
wi
ntho
nt
hony
ny
y
Bour
Bo
urda
ur
dain
da
aiin
n and
n KF
Seet
Se
etoh
et
oh
o
h

BBC GoodFood 107

masterclass
Smart ways to improve your kitchen skills

In this section
7D
7
Diego Palladinos
Die
Club
ub 9 pizza
maste
ster
terclass p 144
7DIY Jamun
un
n jam
jja
p 148

Words KAINAZ CONTRACTOR Photograph DAVID MUNNS

7Robust Tuscan reds


eds
ds
p 149

MEZZALUNA
We dont know about you, but
weve been lusting after the
mezzaluna ever since we rst
spotted it on Nigella Lawsons
cookery shows. After having used
this odd sickle-shaped knife, we can
now see why shes so addicted to
them. Though at rst appearance it
seems perfectly suited for lazy and
imprecise cooks, it is in fact great
for nely chopping ingredients
together. For the uninitiated, the
centre of the curved blade must
touch the chopping surface, while
the handles on either side aid in
the to and fro movement while
chopping. It can sometimes even
work better than a food processor
as it lets you have full control over
the size of your chopping. When
purchasing, make sure the blades
are ne and razor sharp as they
may end up crushing the food
rather than chopping it otherwise.
Try the Living Kitchen Herb
Chopper available at zansaar.
com for ` 3,485.

ED
V
O
R
P
AP

DIEGO PALLADINOS

Masterclass
Chef Diego Palladino, International Brand Owner of Pizza Metro Pizza, guides you step
by step on how to make the pizzerias innovative Club 9 pizza
Recipe DIEGO PALLADINO Photographs PAROMA MUKHERJEE

Club 9
Makes 2 large pizzas Q 30 minutes +
resting Q MODERATELY EASY
The pairing of okra and potato in a
pizza is unusual, but it definitely works.
The fried okra provides a wonderfully
crisp contrast to the mushy potatoes
and the salty cheese.
yeast 3 tsp
warm water 1 1/2 cups
extra virgin olive oil 1 tbsp
strong plain flour 4 cups, sifted
salt 2 tsp
THE TOPPINGS
olive oil 3 tbsp + extra for greasing
fresh mozzarella 100g, chopped (try
Impero available at gourmet stores)
onions 60g, sliced and fried
potatoes 6, cubed and oven roasted
with olive oil and rosemary
okra 50g, fried to a crisp
basil leaves 6 + 6 more to garnish
green chillies 3-5, nely chopped
breadcrumbs a handful
goats cheese 20g
parmesan 2 tbsp, grated

PIZZA MAKING TIPS

!
VCIE
I
S
ES
P
U
L
E
EXCY-STEP R
B
STEPa b-onus videaos
Watch a Metro Pizz
of Pizz omba pizza.
Cicciob on p 20
Details

110 BBC GoodFood

Q The resting time for the dough


depends on the weather. Colder
climates demand longer proving
hours while warm climates call for
15 minutes or less.
Q Knead the dough well and make
it springy enough to stretch it out.
Q If it looks too wet initally, dont
add extra our. Wait until all the
our is evenly mixed into the yeast
and then add more if required.
Avoid drying out the dough.

JULY 2013

masterclass
chef skills

In a mixing bowl, add the yeast to the


warm water. Mix well until the yeast
dissolves and the lumps disappear.

Add the olive oil and mix again.

Gradually add the our to the yeast and


mix well.

Add the salt and knead further for


about 8-10 minutes until you obtain a
smooth and elastic dough.

Sprinkle some our on a clean working


surface and transfer the dough. Knead
again.

If you nd the dough too sticky, just add


a little more our.

The dough is ready when it feels


springy. Press a nger into the
dough, if it is elastic, it will spring
back and not leave behind a hole.

Divide the dough into two balls of


equal size.

Cover with a clean, wet kitchen towel and


leave to rest for 30 minutes. The dough
should double in size.

112 BBC GoodFood

JULY 2013

masterclass
chef skills

10

Preheat the oven to 200C. Sprinkle some


our on a clean work surface and spread
one piece of dough in to a circle, about
40cm. Make it as thin as a pancake, but
make sure you dont tear it. Repeat with
the other ball of dough.

11

Oil two large at baking trays and place


the pizza bases on them. Spread the
edges out so that they are evenly spead
across the tray.

12

Now add the chopped mozzarella all over


the pizza.

13

Top with the fried onions and rosemary


potatoes.

14

Now add the crispy fried okra, basil,


green chillies and breadcrumbs.

15

Drizzle half the olive oil over the pizza


and leave to rest for 5 minutes.

16

Put the pizza in a 200C oven for


10 minutes.

17

Remove from the oven, add basil leaves,


goats cheese, parmesan and olive oil
and return to the oven for a minute.

18

Using a pizza cutter, slice through the


pizza to create 8 equal triangles.

JULY 2013

BBC GoodFood 113

masterclass
diy

make your own

JAMUNJAM
Make jamun season last all year with this riot of a homemade jam. Wicked!
Recipe and photograph CHINMAYIE BHAT

Jamun jam
Makes 250g Q45 minutes QEASY
jamun 250g, ripe
sugar 200g
vanilla pod or cinnamon stick 1
(optional)
QWash the jamun well and drain all
the water. Place the sugar and jamun
in a heavy-bottomed pan and heat on
medium ame. Within a few minutes
the sugar will melt and the fruit will
release purple juices. Slowly bring the
mixture to a boil.
QMash the fruit with a spoon for the
seeds and skin to separate well. At
this stage you can choose to avour
the jam with a pod of vanilla or a stick
of cinnamon. After boiling for 5-10
minutes it will turn into a thick syrup.
QThe mixture will continue to thicken
after it cools down so do not boil it for
too long. Let the mixture cool a little
and sieve it to get rid of the seeds and
the skin. Pour the jam into a clean
glass jar. It can be refrigerated for up
to a year.
QPER SERVING 138.13 kcals, protein
0.24g, carbs 36.19g, fat 0.08g, sat fat
none, fibre none, salt none

Wine expert Ruma Singh picks out eight robust Tuscan reds
Ruma Singh is a
lifestyle writer and
has been the only
woman president of
the Bengaluru Wine
Club. She writes,
tweets and blogs
about wine, food
and travel.

JULY 2013

uscany is home to
some of the worlds
most beloved red grape
varieties. It is dominated
by Sangiovese, the native grape that
creates elegant, drinkable wines such
as the Chianti and Chianti Classico.
Arguably Tuscanys most well known
creations, Chianti and Chianti
Classico are made from at least 75 per
cent Sangiovese with a permissible
percentage of other grapes like
Canaiolo Nero and Malvasia.
The other world famous red wines
that come from the Chianti region
are informally called Super Tuscan
wines. The Italian classication system
introduced in the 1960s was very rigid.
Many winemakers in the region wanted
to add international grape varieties
like Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon
and Cabernet Franc into their wine
but were unable to do so because of
stringent rules. Thus was born the
IGT wine (Indicazione Geograca
Tipical), unofficially known worldwide
as the Super Tuscan. IGT wines
predominantly use local grapes, but can
include international varieties too. They
are lush, expensive wines with a long
ageing potential and are an expression
of the winemakers skills.
Another well-known Tuscan red is
the Vino Nobile de Montepulciano, also
predominantly Sangiovese. This fruity
wine derives its name from the fact that
it was once beloved of the nobility.
Tuscany is also famous for Vin
Santo, or holy wine, said to have
been created in the 14th Century by
a Franciscan monk as a cure for the
victims of the plague. Available in both
red and white variants, Vin Santo is
today served as a dessert wine.

Luce della Vite Lucente IGT 2010


( 4,760, available at T3 arrival
(`
terminal, Delhi airport)
With 75 per cent Merlot and 25 per
cent Sangiovese, this Super Tuscan has
notes of coffee and deep red berry and
a smooth, long nish. It pairs well with
grilled or roasted meats and game.

TO DS
W VERE
HOSERAN
SC
TU

Tuscan reds

wl
by A
bo st ere he. C.
u th
t

ed
a
ap s m id,
re -18
sh las liqu to b 15
g
n
geg he l of g it ee
or . T m in etw
0
al op
ow b
ov e t -60 all ved
d
5
r
an th
29 an se
at
th
wi bit for sily hen
a
w
ss
m ea
gla ows roo ine est
e a arr gh e w s b
Us t n nou l th aste
a
r
th ve e swi ed t
ha to an r
y
u sc
all yo
ide ing d Tu
ow die
all l-bo
l
fu

10-MINUTE WINE GUIDE

Querciabella Chianti Classico


DOCG (`
(` 4,763, available from
WineKart.com)
Made from organically grown grapes,
this 95 per cent Sangiovese wine has
light fruity notes and a medium nish.
It pairs well with pasta, charcuterie and
even Bistecca alla Fiorentina.

Gaja Promis IGT Ca Marcanda


(` 4,690, available at Drops, Bengaluru)
(`
The elegance of Merlot in this wine
blends perfectly with the fresh acidity
and power of the Sangiovese. Pair with
pasta and grilled meats like lamb or
tenderloin.

La Brancaia TRE IGT (`


(` 3,362,
available from WineKart.com)
This is a blend of three grapes
Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet
Sauvignon. A delicate blend of berries
and oral notes, try it with risotto,
pastas, grilled vegetables or meats.

Marchesi di Frescobaldi Brunello di


Montalcino DOCG Castel Giocondo
(` 5,790, available at Reliance Fresh,
(`
Mumbai)
Garnet red with notes of blackberry,
spices and leather, pair this wine with
beef and aged but not strong cheeses.

Bibi Graetz Cassamata Rosso


(` 2,212, available at Madhuloka and
(`
Wineyard, Bengaluru)
This value-for-money Tuscan red has
light tannins and black fruit, owers
and spice. It goes well with light cheeses,
kebabs and tomato-based pastas.

Castello Banfi Col di Sasso IGT


(` 1,300, available at Reliance Fresh,
(`
Mumbai and Drops, Bengaluru)
Made from Cabernet Sauvignon and
Sangiovese grapes, this wonderfully soft,
fruity red complements light white meat
and pasta.
p

Zonin Chianti DOCG (`


(` 1,590, available
at Madhuloka, Bengaluru)
With scents of cherries, wild berry fruit
and violets, this Chianti complements
richly-avoured dishes when young,
and goes well with game and stewed
meats once aged for 3
meats,
3-4
4 years.
years

BBC GoodFood 115

7 VEGETARIAN 7READY UNDER 30 MINUTES 7LOW FAT

STARTERS, SNACKS AND SOUPS


7777 58
Bhee pakodas
7777 66
Carrot and hummus
rolls
7777 136
Green mango salad
7777 66
Minted hummus
pockets
7777 134
Noodle soup with
chicken
7777 74
Quick tomato soup
with cheesy garlic
dippers
7777 58
Spinach rarebit
melts

SIDES AND SAUCES

MAINS
Egg
7777 28

DESSERTS, BREAKFASTS AND

Meat
7777 72

7777 94
7777 102
7777 64
7777 78
7777 92

7777 60
7777 78
7777 94
7777 91

Poultry
7777 92
7777 100
7777 66
7777 62

7777 66

7
132
7777 86
7777 74
7777 72
7777 148
7777 78
7777 80
7777 138
7777 71

BAKING
7777 30
7777 26
7777 110

Egg, mayo and


watercress wraps

Chargrilled lamb
with lentils, beans
and feta
Classic Swedish
meatballs
Garlay
Harissa lamb stew
with orzo
Keema samosa with
jamun salsa
Moroccan lamb
meatballs with
harissa and
couscous
Pea and pancetta
carbonara
Pork with mulberry
sauce
Puttanesca
meatballs
Red Thai meatball
curry

Achari chicken
meatball wrap
Badi bauwa ki
handia
Caesar salad with
crispy chicken
Chicken with
coconut and
cashews
Chicken soba
noodles

Fish and seafood


7777 28
Bay scented prawns
with basil
mayonnaise
7777 138
Caramel sh with
galangal
116 BBC GoodFood

7777 112
7777 112

7777 42
7777 110
7777 30
7777 30

82
7777 76
7777 102
7777 68

7777 70

7777 28

Vegetarian
7777 92
7777 28

7777 86
7777 103
7777 60

7777 86

Fish with jamun and


dill butter
Lazeez meen dum
Lemon and dill sea
bass with ciabatta,
tomato and olive
salad
Smoked salmon
and asparagus
fettuccine
Spiced prawn and
mango noodles

Achari gravy
Baby potato and
sundried tomato
salad
Baked skinny fries
Bhuna zimikand
Chargrilled
aubergine and
pepperonata salad
Cheesy chips

7777 72

7777 96
7777 144
7777 62
7777 88
7777 85
7777 70

7777 136
7777 88
7777 132
7777 71
7777 100
7777 89
7777 86
7777 74

Apple and goats


cheese salad with
warm g dressing
Chilli and garlic soya
meatballs
Club 9 pizza
Courgette and
rosemary pizza
Harissa sweet potato
wedges
Healthy fries
Hot and sour
aubergine with sticky
rice
Lemongrass tofu
Parmesan potato
skins
Poutine
Pumpkin salad with
soy balsamic dressing
Riconch
Skinny carrot fries
Sweet potato fries
Warm Mexican rice
salad with kidney
beans and avocado
salsa

7777 82
7777 30
154
7777 108
7777 112
JAIN
7777 110

Cheese curds
Cheese, mustard and
chive dip
Cheesy garlic
dippers
Fig dressing
Jamun jam
Jamun salsa
Mulberry sauce
Soy and chilli
dipping sauce
Soy balsamic
dressing

Almond affogato
Cake pops
Cherries in ros
wine and vanilla
syrup
Cherry ripple ice
cream
Choco-cherry fudge
torte with cherry
sorbet
Coconut macaroons
Double cherry
semi-freddo
Iced berry Eton mess
Lemon and ginger
layers
Mulberry panna
cotta
Pain perdu with
cinnamon sugar
Royal cherry trie
Upside-down
cherry torte
Vanilla custard

7777 112
7777 99
7777 139
7777 30
7777 80
7777 76
7
104
7777 12
7777 82
7777 104

Cherry pie and


vanilla cream
Cherry sorbet
Chuki sabut mattar
Fruit cups
Hot fudge brownies
Jamun cheesecake
Jamun granita
Meetha chawal
Melon trie
Mulberry pie
Phirni

DRINKS
7777 108
7777 32

Merry cherry zz
Vinedo Italiano spritz

JULY 2013

Photograph PRATEEKSH MEHRA

Recipe index

Shop talk
AHMEDABAD
Organic Haus
Oriental House, S V Kinariwala Road,
Law Garden
Tel: +91 79 26445593
BENGALURU
Foodhall
MG Mall, Trinity
Ulsoor
Foodworld Gourmet
301, Gottigere village, Uttarahalli
village, Bannerghatta Main Road
Tel: +91 80 32466586
Gourmet Food World
No 88, Shariff Bhatia Towers,
MG Road
Tel: +91 80 41474789
Natures Basket
#755, 80 Feet Road, 4th Block, Next
to Costa Coffee, Koramangala
Tel: +91 80 41317401
Sorbet The gourmet food store
No 287, Varthur Road,
Siddapura, Whiteeld
Tel: +91 80 28543245
CHENNAI
Amma Nana
Chamiers Road, opp Park Sheraton
Hotel, Nandanam
Tel: +91 44 24350596
Mercado
No 64, Rukmani Road, Kalakshetra
Colony, Besant Nagar
Tel: +91 44 28173965
Nuts n Spices
New no. 75, Mahatma Gandhi Road,
Nungambakkam
Tel: +91 44 28268180, 42039351
HYDERABAD
Natures Basket
Urmila Towers, Road No. 10,
Opp. Rainbow Hospital, Banjara Hills
Tel: +91 40 23355399
NEW DELHI
A- Mart
A-1, Mahipalpur Extension, NH-8
Tel: +91 11 26789999
Ahuja Vegetable Store
Shop no.- 37, INA Market
Tel: +91 11 24644116
Allied Fruits and Florists
58-B, Khan Market, Lodhi Road
Tel: +91 11 24642509
Ashok General Store
113, Main Market, Opposite Dilli Haat,
INA Market
Tel: +91 11 24617561
Dubden Green
4-A, Near Electric Sub Station,
Shahpur Jat
Tel: +91 11 32905310,
+91 9810131343

JULY 2013

Where to find everything from mulberries to mayonnaise

Flanders Dairy The Cheese Ball


31 Mehr Chand Market, Lodhi Road
Tel: +91 11 24653789
Fortune Gourmet
144/9, Ground Floor, Kishangarh,
Vasant Kunj
Tel: +91 11 65642270/ 9868899956
Gogias
280, Main road, INA Market
Tel: +91 11 24624809/ 24644618
INA Market
Aurobindo Marg, INA Colony, Opposite
Dilli Haat
Le Marche
58, Basant Lok, Vasant Vihar,
Near Priya Cinema
Tel: +91 11 43232100/41669111
Masters Bakers
G-33, Usha Chambers, Community
Centre, Ashok Vihar
Tel: +91 11 27419061/ 27430734
Modern Bazaar
18-B, Community Centre, Basant Lok,
Vasant Vihar
Tel: +91 11 41669777
Natures Basket
Ground oor, D /15,
Between BP Petrol Pump
and Defence Colony. Flyover
Tel: +91 11 46698777
46, Basant Lok, Vasant Vihar,
Ground oor & basement
Tel: +91 11 40571919

Palkit Impex
C-82, Basement, Shivalik, Malviya
Nagar. Tel: +91 11 26673437
Passion Cheese
Select Citywalk Mall,
District Centre, Saket
Tel: +91 11 40599916
Pigpo
9 Jor Bagh Market
Tel: +91 11 24611723/ 24626930

Gourmet Gallery
27/9C, Chandi Ghosh Road,
Regent Park
Tel: +91 33 23818510
MUMBAI
Country of Origin
Maneesha Building, 69/A, Napean Sea
Road, Malabar Hill
Tel: +91 22 23642221
Dolce Vita
Ground Floor, Grand Galleria, High
Street Phoenix, Phoenix Mills,
Lower Parel
Tel: +91 22 24964307
Food Bazaar
Innity Mall, Raheja Classic, New Link
Road, Andheri (W)
Tel: +91 22 67583090
Foodhall
Palladium, High Street Phoenix,
Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel
Tel: +91 22 30264581
Garden Fresh
391/7, Circle House, Bhaudaji Road,
Kings Circle, Matunga
Tel: + 91 22 2403 5345
Gourmet West
Westside, Army and Navy Building,
148 M.G. Road, Kala Ghoda
Tel: +91 22 66360499
Hypercity
Ground Floor, Malad (W)
Tel: +91 22 40501300
Lallu & brothers
Shop no 1&2, Pali Market,
Pali Hill Road, Pali Hill,
Bandra (W)
Tel: +91 22 26409295

Yamato Ya The Japanese Store


B-6/9, Safdarjung Enclave,
Near Deer Park
Tel: +91 11 41650164

Natures Basket
227, Samarth Vaibhav Building,
Opposite Tarapur Towers, Adarsh
Nagar, Lokhandwala, Andheri (W)
Tel: +91 22 26300766
2-5 Parul Apartment, Juhu Tara
Road, Juhu
Tel: +91 22 26117893
Plot no. 29, 56 Hill Road, Bandra (W)
Tel: +91 22 26425050
Opp. Mahalaxmi Temple ,
Warden Road, Mahalaxmi
Tel: +91 22 23526775

GURGAON
Kims Mart
DT Mega Mall, LG 36, Gurgaon
Tel: +91 124 2562189

Patel stores
Near Mehboob Studio,
Krishnachandra Marg, Bandra (W)
Tel: +91 22 26558909

Natures Basket
S-201, 2nd Floor, Ambience Mall,
Ambience Island, NH-8
Tel: +91 124 4665753

Ratna stores
Haware Parekh, Sion-Trombay Road,
Opposite Union Park, Chembur
Tel: +91 22 25203389

Steak House
13/8 Jor Bagh Market
Tel: +91 11 24611008/ 24611129
The French Farmer
Tel: Call Roger Langbour
+91 9810166196, +91 11 26359701

KOLKATA
Afraa Deli
City Centre, Salt Lake
Tel: +91 33 23581111

Regal Plus
1, Lourdes Haven,
10/A, Pali Naka,
Bandra (W)

Tel: + 91 22 26041204/ 26041208/


26465070
Reliance Fresh
Crystal Paradise Mall, DuttaJi
Salavi Road, Off Veera Desai Road,
Opposite Janaki Centre, Link Road,
Andheri (W)
Tel: +91 22 26743750
Framroze Court, Phalke Road,
Dadar (E)
Tel: +91 22 24155017
Sant
Shop Number 1, Sahina
Apartments, Pali Market,
Bandra (W)
Tel: +91 22 40060020
Spencers HyperMarket
1406A/28A, Malad (W)
Tel: +91 22 42686130
Tutto Bene Delicatessen
Spencers Hyper Market,
Ground Floor, Located in
Inorbit Mall, Malad (W)
Tel: +91 9823485988

PUNE
Dorabjee & Co Pvt Ltd
B-1, Moledina Road, Camp Cantonment
Tel: +91 20 26052883
Natures Basket
Mansur Ali Tower,
3, Galaxy Society,
Max Mueller Lane,
Near AXIS Bank,
Dhole Patil Road
Tel: +91 20 26160540
Shop No. 155/1A, Kumar Crystal
Aundh
Tel: +91 20 25889530
Providore
GF 104, Anand Park, Baner
Road, Aundh
Tel: +91 20 65601551
Tutto Bene Delicatessen
Shop No 1, Princeton Flair,
Lane No 8, Koregaon Park
Tel: +91 20 66077193
Tutto Bene Delicatessen
G 14 Sacred World Mall, Wanowrie
Tel: +91 20 26806933

Gourmet Websites
Delicious Now
deliciousnow.com
Farm2kitchen
farm2kitchen.com
Foodesto
foodesto.com
Gourmet Company
gourmetco.in
Houseproud
houseproud.in
Local Banya
localbanya.com
Olive Tree Trading
olivetreetrading.com
Pesca Fresh
pescafresh.com
Zansaar
zansaar.com

BBC GoodFood 117

good food loves


showstopper

Sweet ending
Surrender to the charms of this moreish cherry trifle that has
eat me now written all over it
Royal cherry trie
Serves 8 Q1 hour 5 minutes
+ chilling QEASY

custard is thick and smooth. Pour


into a jug and cover the surface
of the custard with cling-lm to
prevent a skin from forming. Set
aside to cool.
QTip the stoned cherries into a
pan with half the jam or conserve
and cook over a medium heat for
5-10 minutes until softened and
saucy. Remove from the heat and
leave to cool slightly.
QSpread half the slices of
Madeira cake generously with the
remaining cherry jam. Sandwich
with the remaining cake slices,
then cut in half.
QPour the kirsch or brandy into
a shallow bowl, dip each
sponge sandwich into

the liqueur, then arrange in the


base of the trie dish (you will
need a shallow, straight-sided,
20cm round glass dish about 5cm
deep). Line the edges of the dish
rst to create a stripey effect,
then ll in the centre with the
remaining sandwiches, pouring
over any remaining liquid.
QSpoon over the cherries and
any juice from the pan, then
scatter over the broken biscuits.
Pour over the cooled custard,
then spread whipped cream
over the top. Decorate with fresh
whole cherries and chill for a few
hours, or make it a day ahead and
chill for up to 24 hours before
serving.
QPER SERVING 886 kcals,
protein 10g, carbs 94g, fat 50g,
sat fat 29g, fibre 1g, sugar
75g, salt 0.9g

Recipe MARY BERRY Photograph DAVID MUNNS Styling VICTORIA ALLEN Food styling LIZZIE HARRIS

cherries 450g, reserve a few for


the top and stone the rest
cherry jam 340g (try Hero
available at gourmet stores)
Madeira or sponge cake 450g,
cut into 1cm-thick slices
Kirsch or brandy 100ml
(available at premium liquor
stores)
amaretti biscuits 5, broken
double cream 300ml, whipped
lightly
THE CUSTARD
caster sugar 50g
cornflour 50g
vanilla extract 1 tsp
eggs 2 large + 1 egg yolk
milk 300ml
whipping cream 300ml

QFirst, make the custard by


tipping the caster sugar, cornour
and vanilla into a mixing bowl.
Add the eggs and egg yolk. Whisk
with a hand whisk until smooth
and blended.
QPour the milk and double
cream into a pan and heat gently
until hot, but do not boil. Pour
this over the egg mixture and
immediately whisk until blended.
Wash the pan to remove any
scum from the milk and pour the
custard back into the clean pan.
Heat gently, stirring constantly
until thickened. Dont panic if the
custard starts to look lumpy as
it thickens, just continue to heat
and whisk until the

MAY 2013

BBC GoodFood 118