Conde Nast India 7/14

THE LAST WORD
IN TRAVEL
JUNE-JULY 2014 | 150
INDIAN EDITION
oon
Honeymplanner
From Koh Samui to Bora Bora to Peru,
where to goand how to do it differently
HOT LIST
THE 50 COOLEST NEW HOTELS

IN INDIA & AROUND THE WORLD
VOTE & WIN

READERS TRAVEL
AWARDS 2014
FATIMA
BHUTTO
ON THE MAGICAL NORTHERN LIGHTS
EUROPES
BEST ISLANDS
SANTORINI, IBIZA, CAPRI, SKYE
PARTY, EAT, LAZE & SPOT THE STARS
TORONTO AFTER SUNSET + SHOPPING IN DELHI +BARCELONA FOR KIDS
cartier.com
Haute Joaillerie collection
Contents
June-July 2014
On the cover
78 The honeymoon planner Whether you want to 144 How to be alone in Iceland In her pursuit of
laze on a Caribbean island or explore the vineyards
of Switzerland, Jasreen Mayal Khanna nds the trips
that will leave you with a lifetime of memories
104 Children in Barcelona With mini-musicals,

puppet shows and a magical zoo, this is a great
holiday spot for kids. By Rhonda Carrier
108 25 hip boutiques in Shahpur Jat Your allyou-need-to-know guide to this New Delhi
shopping hub
the aurora borealis, Fatima Bhutto discovers a land

of magic, stars, light and love
160 Europes best islands From a foodies

heaven in France to a party hotspot in Spain,
Laura Griffith-Jones picks the isles you must
visit this summer
176 High time A boho-chic vibe, cutting-edge

restaurants and a buzzing nightlife are just three
of Torontos many secrets, says Dominic Wells
126 The Hot List 2014 Indias 10 coolest new hotels
PHOTOGRAPH: WILLIAM HEREFORD
and 40 more from around the world
Children playing on
the beach at The
Ritz-Carlton, Aruba
June-July 2014 Cond Nast Traveller 9
Contents
June-July 2014
In this issue
26
28
46
28
48 108
nds that loneliness can be

a powerful travel companion,
but his wifes presence makes
the journey more memorable
Informer The superhero star
of X-Men, Hugh Jackman, speaks
about his trip to Montreal and
why theres no city like Sydney
Agenda With its soaring
mountains and unique culture,
says Anupama Chopra, Bhutan
is enchanting Plus The best
gelaterias in Rome and why the
monsoon is the perfect time
to explore Goa
Word of mouth Whats hot
around the world, from glamping
in Indias most remote regions
to New York Citys best rooftop
and underground bars Plus
Everything you didnt know
about Swedens ICEHOTEL
65 Where to stay Sneak peeks
78
108
124
186
191
192
196
209
210
102
at the Shangri-La Hotel, At

The Shard, London, The Corner
Courtyard in Kolkata and Aloft
Bengaluru Cessna Business Park
Plus Bed-hopping with
grandmaster Viswanathan Anand
and Room Service Johannesburg
View An insiders guide to scoring
those impossible-to-get table
reservations; Suhel Seth on why the
Augusta Masters tournament, in
the US, is about more than just golf;
what to expect in Premium
Economy Plus Sheetal Mallar and
Lisa Haydon debate whether its
better to capture your holiday on
camera or savour the moment
Wear to go Architectureinspired statement jewellery;
unisex watches that add romance
to your honeymoon Plus The
essential travel medical kit
Diary Our pick of the music
events you should not miss
this season
What to pack For a music
festival or on your honeymoon
Experts The perfect playlists
for your road trip, city break,
mountain escape or cruise
RSVP The bigwigs of the
hospitality industry gathered for
the annual HICSA 2014
Contest Win a three-night at
The LaLiT Temple View Khajuraho
That was then We look back
to the rst ever FIFA World Cup
Room with a view The Alpina
Gstaad in Oberbort, Switzerland
68
THIS ISSUES COVER

A view of Agios Ioannis Katiforis
church from Grace Santorini hotel
on the Greek island of Santorini.
Photograph by Paul Metcalfe
12 Cond Nast Traveller June-July 2014
PHOTOGRAPHS: ANSHUMAN SEN; MARTIN WESTLAKE; GETTY
24 First Word Author Akhil Sharma
cntraveller.in
IN FOCUS THIS MONTH: WOMEN & TRAVEL
GO,
GIRL
Inspiration and advice on how to

make that solo trip happen: where
to go, the best way to plan, how to
stay safe and, most importantly,
how to have a great time.
Dear Ms Business Traveller
From packing to people, heres how to deal

with everyday annoyances on a work trip.
Cutting through
forests, up and down
hills, alongside the
beach and around
lakeswe tell you
the best places for
a cycling holiday.
EAT LIKE
A LOCAL
IN VENICE
Its easy to be lured to

the tourist favourites,
but where do you go
if you want to dine like
a Venetian? We tell you.
ALL THIS
AND MORE
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INDIAN EDITION
INDIAN EDITION
Honeymoon
planner
HOT LIST

n
Honeymoo
planner
HOT LIST

VOTE & WIN

READERS TRAVEL
AWARDS 2014
FATIMA
BHUTTO
EUROPES
BEST ISLANDS

VOTE & WIN

READERS TRAVEL
AWARDS 2014
FATIMA
BHUTTO
EUROPES
BEST ISLANDS

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Contributors
We asked our contributors: What was the last book you read
or lm you watched that made you want to travel?
Who: FATIMA BHUTTO What: CNT contributing editor
and author of several books, including Songs of Blood and Sword
(Penguin India; 699) Where: Iceland, p144 A: Seeing The Grand
Budapest Hotel made me want to visit the Republic of Zubrwka,
even though it doesnt exist.
Who: JAMES BEDFORD What: British travel photographer

Where: Iceland, p144 A: In 2007, I went on my honeymoon in
Vietnam. We decided to go to Ho Chi Minh (Saigon) because of
Graham Greenes 1955 novel, The Quiet American, and we even stayed
at one of the authors favourite haunts: the Hotel Majestic Saigon.
Who: ANUPAMA CHOPRA What: Writer, lm critic and host

of The Front Row on Star World Where: Bhutan, p28 A: I recently
re-watched Brokeback Mountain. The staggeringly beautiful
locations underlined the profound tragedy of the lm and also made
me desperately want to be somewhere in the mountains again.
Who: ANSHUMAN SEN What: Delhi-based photographer

Where: Shahpur Jat, Delhi, p108 A: The last book I read, Ranjit
Singh: Maharaja of The Punjab by Khushwant Singh, made me
really want to visit the city of Anandpur Sahib in Punjab.
Who: JASREEN MAYAL KHANNA What: CNT lifestyle

writer Where: Honeymoon planner, p78 A: Jhumpa Lahiris The
Lowland, set in old-world Kolkata, was an inspiring read. Shortly
after nishing the book, I visited this charming city and even
stayed at the same Tollygunge Club she describes.
PHOTOGRAPHS: PAMELA HANSON/TRUNK ARCHIVE; JAMES BEDFORD; ANSHUMAN SEN; UMA BY COMO PARO; JULIEN CAPMEIL
Who: AKHIL SHARMA What: Author of several books, including

his new novel, Family Life (Penguin India; 499) Where: First word, p24
A: Reading Damned to Fame: The Life of Samuel Beckett, I wanted
to trace his footsteps down the grungy Left Bank of Paris, through
the villages around Dublin, along the knotted lanes of Florence...
Editors letter
Divia Thani Daswani Editor

editorcntraveller@condenast.in
Twitter @diviathani
Now, you can read the magazine on your tablet and smartphone. Download here: CNTraveller.in/DigitalEdition
Unlike other magazines or newspapers, Cond Nast Traveller does not accept complimentary travel press trips.
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TRUTH IN
TRAVEL
All information and travel details are correct at the time of going to press, and may have altered after publication. Unless otherwise stated, hotel prices and airline
fares are for the months of publication. Currency conversions are correct at the time of going to press, and may be rounded up.
PHOTOGRAPHS: JAMES BEDFORD; FARROKH CHOTHIA; DIVIA THANI DASWANI
ost days, my job is woefully dissatisfying. No matter how much I travel, there
are always too many places still to see and too little time in which to see them.
Compiling our annual hotel Hot List (p126) is particularly depressing: its
almost as if 50 new spots are added to my bucket list each year, just like that. See, until
now, I had no real desire to visit Newfoundland; but looking at images of the amazing
Fogo Island Inna sleek, sexy take on a fishing shack on stiltsI simply dont think I
can make it through life without taking this approximately 32-hour journey out into the
middle of nowhere. And whatever was I thinking letting a colleague visit Vana, Malsi
Estate, near Dehradun, instead of going myself? I laugh at the term FOMO (Fear Of
Missing Out), but its an apt way to describe what guides our passionate team of Cond
Nast travellers: we do not allow ourselves to miss out on amazing, enriching travel
experiences, no matter how outlandishand we wont let you, either.
Of course, sharing these experiences with others is integral to the joy of travelling.
Thats why we conduct our annual Readers Travel Awardsto learn what you found
most memorable and which hotels, spas, restaurants, cruises, travel companies and apps
made your cut. Please vote and recognise your favourites. Voting also gives you the
opportunity to win a holiday and strike another amazing place off your bucket list.
Log on to www.cntraveller.in/rta or fill in the enclosed form and send it to us.
Finally, on to what I find most exciting about this issue: our
honeymoon special always makes me think about how to bring
romance into the issue in surprising ways. Youll discover this in
Fatima Bhuttos haunting piece on chasing the Northern Lights in
Iceland (p144), Laura Griffith-Jones list of Europes best islands
(p160) and Akhil Sharmas melancholy essay on the difference
between travelling the world with and without your beloved (p24).
And, of course, theres our essential Honeymoon Planner (p78),
full of ideas that come from the hearts (and first-hand experiences)
of us travel-obsessed FOMO sufferers.
For instance, right now, I am sitting on We do not allow ourselves
the deck of my suite at Grootbos Private Nature Reserve to miss out on amazing
in South Africa, watching the sun set over the place where
the Atlantic and Indian Oceans meet and whales come to travel experiencesand
mate. The beach glows pink; the milkwood forest around we wont let you either
me is lush and green. This morning, I spotted sharks
in blue waters from high above, in the front seat of a
Cessna aircraft; this afternoon, I was inches away from
them underwater, separated only by a slim cage. Tonight,
I will enjoy a five-course meal in a toasty, beautiful wine
cellar with a dozen people, some of whom I know well
and others not at all, but hopefully theyll be interesting.
Travel is always romantic, regardless of whether youre
long married, newly wed or never-to-wed. It is always
to be treasured. Yes, most days my job can be woefully
dissatisfying. I am grateful that today is not one of them.
luxury is a carefully crafted expression.
Personal. Refined. Engaging.

For reservations call +91 44 7177 1234
or email us at chennai.park@hyatt.com
39 Velachery Road, Near Raj Bhavan, Chennai 600032, India
The trademarks HYATT, PARK HYATT and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt International Corporation 2014 Hyatt International Corporation. All rights reserved.
First word
WITH (AND WITHOUT) YOU
he Lodge at Doonbeg, massive

and appearing to be centuries old,
looks out over the North Atlantic
Ocean. It is in County Clare, in one of the
less-travelled corners of this less-travelled
portion of Ireland. The skies here are
enormous and grey; in the elds by the
ocean, the grass is all bent one way; and
at night, when you lie in bed and hear the
waves roar, you experience a powerful
awareness of timethat the sea roared like
this a thousand years ago and will probably
do so a thousand years from now.
At least that was my feeling the rst
time I visited the hotel. I was travelling alone
and I was lonely for my wife. The second
time I came, she was with me. On this visit,
we did the things that couples usually do at
Doonbeg: we played golf; we rode horses;
we fell asleep while getting massages and
I woke up drooling.
In many ways, the experience of being

at Doonbeg this second time, with my
wife, was less intense, probably because
loneliness and misery are more powerful
than loving companionship. But when
I try to remember and compare these two
trips, the rst one seems more generic.
I have been to many places where the ocean
roars and where the sky is so big that I feel
like I am at the bottom of an ocean; during
the rst trip, I was mostly in my head. The
memories of the second trip are more
specic and special. I remember how my
wife and I sat by a peat re and that her
hair smelled both of peat (almost like a ne
Scotch) and of the shampoo she uses.
Racehorses often have companion
animals placed in their stalls: a goat or dog.
This is because animals, especially highstrung ones, need company. I think this is
true for humans, too. Or, at least, it is for me.
The rst journey I made to Tokyo, I went

with my wife. We stayed at the Palace Hotel
Tokyo. We were as far into the heart of the
city as it is possible to be, and everything
we saw was new and wonderful: the strange
obsession that the Japanese have for
shaved ice, the neighbourhood where the
sumo-wrestling schools are located, how
tightly packed the graveyards are. Despite
all the excitement, though, there was
a certain ordinariness to the experience.
Something always appeared to be missing.
It was like watching a movie with the sound
turned low. I think it was simply the fact
that when I travel with my wife I am much
more grounded. I am less likely to slip into
a fantasy. I dont walk through some
beautiful quarter and wonder what it
would be like to live there.
The second time, I visited alone and
continued to nd the city fascinating. The
concierge at The Peninsula Tokyo pointed to
so many idiosyncratic shops, museums and
parks that I was constantly confronted by
how varied human nature is. Unlike the rst
visit, however, when the city had felt solid,
now, because I could slip into my thoughts,
there was a thinness to the experience.
I was seeing things, but I was mostly lost
in my own thoughts. It was similar to how
when you jog while listening to music, you
are as much inside the music as you are
inside the physical landscape.
When I told my wife this, she rst said
the obvious: You are a worrier. You like to
live in your own head where you can worry
peacefully. And then she said the less
obvious: OK is OK. Indeed.
Since she said this, I have been trying
hard to remember these words. And I try to
be especially kindI leave bigger tips, open
doors for people and help the elderly. It
grounds me and I no longer feel alone.
Akhil Sharmas second book, Family Life
(Penguin; 499), is out now
When I travel with

my wife, it is like
watching a movie with
the sound turned low
PHOTOGRAPH: PAMELA HANSON/TRUNK ARCHIVE
Author Akhil Sharma nds that loneliness can make for a powerful travel
companionbut the presence of his wife makes the journey more memorable
Informer
Q&A
In conversation with
HUGH JACKMAN
The superhero star of X-Men speaks about his recent trip to
Montreal and why theres no city like Sydney
Which is your road most travelled?
Ive been in Montreal lming X-Men: Days of

Future Past.
Without a doubt, Byron Bay in New South
Wales, on the east coast of Australia.
Id say Europe and North Africa. My family

is from the UK, so since I was a teenager my
stopover was always England. For adventure,
food and panache, we headed south,
nishing in Morocco.
Name the place that most lived up to

the hype
Which is the smartest hotel youve

ever stayed in?
Paris, every time.
Burj Al Arab, in Dubai.
Where in the world have you felt happiest?
And how about the least?

I cant think of oneIm a glass-half-full
kind of guy.
Which is your favourite city, and why?

Sydney. Where else can you swim on the
best beach in the world before work, and
then have amazing restaurants and food all
on your doorstep? Oh, and I grew up there.
(A disclaimer: I may be biased, and hope my
wifes family who are from Melbourne dont
read this.)
Tell us about a great little place you know

It isnt really little, but its not well known
internationallyMargaret River, south of
Perth, in Western Australia.
26 Cond Nast Traveller Jun-July 2014
Id sit in the lighthouse

in Byron Bay, dreaming
of all the places I wanted
to go to all over the world
What do you pack rst?
Swimming trunks. Im a typical Aussieyou
cant get me out of the water.
Describe your favourite view

The one from the famous lighthouse in Byron
Baythe most eastern point of Australia
where Id sit and whale-watch, dreaming of all
the places I wanted to go to all over the world.
Describe a memory from one of your

childhood holidays
Dad always took us camping along the great
coastline of Australia. We would be in a veperson tent, and there were ve of us kids,
plus Dad. I discovered the real identity of
Santa at the age of eight, when my Dad was
trying to navigate stockings in the tent and
trod on my hair. Boy, did I get a shock.
Describe a holiday disaster

On the same trip that I discovered Santa
wasnt real, it rained for six days straight.
Thats when cooking, eating and sleeping
in a tent gets old faster.
Where did you go on your rst holiday

without your parents?
On a camping trip through the Blue Mountains,
near Sydney, for three nights. No way would I
let my kids do this, knowing what we got up to.
Sightseeing or sun-lounger? Barefoot

or bling?
All of the above Well, not really bling,
particularly on holiday.
FRANCESCA BABB
PHOTOGRAPH: STEWART SHINING/TRUNK ARCHIVE
Where have you just come back from?
watches
calvinklein.com
+91 9820078660/9871123247/9900940400
BEWITCHED
BY BHUTAN
With its soaring mountains, lush valleys and unique culture,
this tiny kingdom is enchanting, says Anupama Chopra
Early morning view of

Thimphu, Bhutans capital
Agenda
Your next holiday now + Rome + Goa
conflict in the state rendered home

unreachable, we tried to find solace
in a substitutea few vacations were
spent wandering through Switzerland,
but after a while, its clinical prettiness
got tedious. Then, one summer, a friend
suggested Bhutan. And that was 14
years ago.
I still recall the first glimpses as
the plane dipped and swerved. What
came into view were trees, scattered
houses and the airport terminal building,
which, too, was built in the traditional
architectural style that every building
in the country is required to comply
with. The tiny airport seemed like
a dolls house or leftovers of a film
set. With four check-in desks and
one baggage carousel, it set the tone

for the rest of the country: culturally
rooted and simple in the best sense of
the word. On that first trip, we drove
straight from Paro airport to Thimphu,
Bhutans capital, which is approximately
an hour away. We werent really sure
what to expect and staying in a city
seemed like a safe bet.
Of course, Thimphu wasnt like any
city we had ever encountered. Even
today, Bhutans biggest city is famously
the worlds only capital city without
traffic lightstraffic policemen suffice
to direct cars. Approximately 1 lakh
people live in Thimphu, which also
has several restaurants, cafs, shops
and museums. Among my favourites r
PHOTOGRAPH: MARTIN WESTLAKE
iven a choice, I would die

in Bhutan. I want to cease
breathing as I sit in Punakha,
taking in the snow-capped Himalayas,
the rows of prayer flags fluttering in the
cool breeze and the imposing 17thcentury dzong (palace), known as Druk
Pungthang Dechen Phodrang or the
palace of great happiness. I cant think
of a more fitting last visual.
Bhutan is the closest some of us will
get to heaven. My love affair with this
reclusive country started more than
a decade ago. My husband, film-maker
Vidhu Vinod Chopra, was born and
raised in Kashmir and three decades
in Mumbai havent dampened his love
for mountains. When the intractable
are the Art Caf, Ambient Caf

and Karmas Coffee (where
the coffee is so good that a sign
on the wall reads: Give me my
coffee and nobody gets hurt).
The Swiss Bakery is a Thimphu
institution where, says former
model Kelly Dorji (arguably
Bhutans most famous export
to India), nothing has changed
since he was a child: not
the menu, the dcor, the old
telephone booth or the speaking
monkey clock! Other major
sites include the National Textile
Museum, which showcases
Bhutanese garments and
weaving techniques from the
1600s onward, and the National
Institute for Zorig Chusum
(13 arts and crafts), a school
for budding sculptors, painters
and weavers.
The local zoo, Motithang
Takin Preserve, made a big
impression on my childrenit
houses the takin, a mix of goat
and antelope, which is the
national animal of Bhutan.
The zoo used to have more
animals, we were told, but it
was disbanded under the rule
of the fourth king, Jigme Singye
Wangchuck, because he felt that
imprisoning animals was against
the religious and environmental
philosophy of the country. Only
the takins remained because
even when they were set free,
they continued to roam around
the city and were put back in the
reserve for their own protection.
The Bhutanese people, most
of whom practise Vajrayana
Buddhism, have a deep, abiding
respect for their environment.
This explains why approximately
72 percent of the country is
covered by forests and 360
varieties of orchid, rare animals,
such as the snow leopard and
the red panda, and 650 species
of bird continue to thrive here.
Unchecked development,
conspicuous consumption
and rampant industrialisation
have no place here. Instead
of Gross Domestic Product
(GDP), Bhutan rates its progress
Clockwise from
top left: Two
men hiking up
to Tigers Nest;
monks at the
dzong in
Punakha; archery
at the Uma by
COMO, Paro;
Gangtey Goemba
by Gross National Happiness

or GNH, a measure of how
happy its citizens are.
This idea, too, was championed
by the fourth king, a visionary
who ruled the nation for 34
years and steered it towards
modernisation. Under him,
progressive healthcare schemes,
hydroelectric projects, tarred
roads and advanced education
systems were established. He
placed equal importance on
preserving the environment
(he designated about 60 percent

of the country as national parks
and other protected areas) and
on Bhutanese culture. Westernstyle buildings were banned in
favour of local designs and the
law continues to require citizens
to wear traditional costumes to
dzongs, schools, offices and
temples: the knee-length gho
for men and the ankle-length
kira for women.
These tenets, however, are
being tested, as Bhutan slowly r
PHOTOGRAPHS: MARTIN WESTLAKE; GENTL & HYERS; UMA BY COMO PARO
Agenda
Agenda
In 1999, Bhutan became the last
country on the planet to allow the entry
of satellite television. The Internet
arrived in the same year. When we first
visited, the country had one newspaper,
Kuensel, which was published once a
week. It now has around 15 newspapers
and magazines, and even a thriving
film industry. Bhutanese films are
largely bargain-basement Bollywood,
with romance, melodrama and song
sequences. But unlike India, a celebrity
culture doesnt exist and amplify the
actors. When filming is done, most just
go back to their day jobs.
In November 2008, Bhutan took
a big step: Jigme Singye Wangchuck
abdicated his throne in favour of his
28-year-old, Oxford-educated son,
Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck, r
The pristine natural

beauty and unbroken
silence of Bhutan soothe
the soul; they offer us
reason to pause
PHOTOGRAPH: UMA BY COMO PARO
opens its doors to the outside world.

Locally called Druk Yul or the Land of
the Thunder Dragon, Bhutan, roughly
the size of Switzerland, was off limits to
tourists till as late as 1974. Except Indian
government officials and a few BritishIndian missionaries, outsiders were kept
at bay. Even today, access continues
to be strictly monitored. Foreigners
(excluding Indians and Bangladeshis)
must make travel bookings through
a registered tour operator and pay a
minimum per-night tariff of 15,000
(includes agents, commission, food,
accommodation, guide services and
transport. The off-season tariff is
12,000). The fee is meant to keep out
backpackers on a budget, making Bhutan
one of the worlds most expensive and,
therefore, exclusive destinations.
Agenda
Outdoor seating at the

Uma by COMO, Paro
and moved the country towards

a constitutional monarchy, even
though his people were perfectly
content with his rule. In an
article in National Geographic,
even the countrys chief election
commissioner said that he would
prefer not to conduct elections,
but the strongest voice for
democracy was the Kings own.
Political parties were created
and the Bhutanese people were
actually taught how to vote. Such
efforts at globalisation, without
a loss of identity, are a delicate
negotiation. But through the
years, each visit to Bhutan has
reaffirmed my belief that this
country can accomplish it.
Thankfully, the shrillness of
the world beyond its borders has
yet to pierce Bhutans blanket of
calm. A sense of unhurried peace
and prayer suffuses the country.
Nowhere is this more apparent
than in the Punakha Valley, set in
lush forests east of the Dochula
Pass. Approximately a three-hour
drive from Thimphu, Punakha
is the winter home of Bhutans
monastic body. It is also home
to the majestic Druk Pungthang
Dechen Phodrang Dzong, a huge
white castle that stands at the
confluence of two riversMo
(Mother) and Pho (Father),
looming over the breathtakingly
beautiful valley.
What made Punakha even
more magical for me was the
Amankora lodge, which is
designed around a traditional
Bhutanese farmhouse and
surrounded by paddy fields
and fruit plantations. Built by
a former chief abbot of Bhutan,
the lodge can only be accessed
via a suspension bridge. It
overlooks rice terraces and
orange orchards, backed by snowcapped mountains. There are only
eight suites and meals are served
in the open courtyard at the
centre. The food is excellent
in fact, the stir-fried carrots and
beans were so fresh and succulent
that my children asked to see the
chef just so they could personally
thank him for making vegetables
Clockwise from
top left: an image
of the fth king;
the Uma by
COMO, Paro; a
meal at the hotel;
the interiors of
Amankora
Gangtey
edible. The crisp mountain air

and warm sunshine made the
food even more delicious.
Another Aman property, the
Amankora Gangtey, is situated
on a knoll that overlooks the
seemingly infinite Phobjikha
Valley and the Gangtey Goemba,
a 16th-century monastery.
Gangtey, a picturesque village,
is about a three-hour drive from
Punakha. Roads are the only
mode of transport within Bhutan
and since most are so circuitous
and often bumpy, its difficult to

drive more than 50km per hour.
We carried a portable DVD
player with us so the kids could
watch movies during these long
drivesfocusing on the screen
also seemed to help my daughter,
who sometimes gets carsick. For
us adults, the scenery was enough.
Wed spread out a blanket in the
most beautiful spot we happened
to come across, and break for
meals. One time, lunch stretched
into hours because my son was r
PHOTOGRAPHS: MARTIN WESTLAKE; UMA BY COMO PARO ARO
Agenda
Agenda
A view of
Tigers Nest
Paro is likely to be your first and last

stop in Bhutan. This gorgeous valley
is home to the famous Tigers Nest
or Taktsang Lhakhang, a monastery
perched on a cliff 10,240ft above sea
level and approximately 3,000ft above
the Paro Valley. The monastery was built
in 1692. Legend has it that the seer sage
Padmasambhava (or Guru Rinpoche, as
hes known in Bhutan), who is credited
with introducing Buddhism to Bhutan,
meditated at this spot for three years,
three months, three days and three
hours in the 7th century. Tigers Nest
is accessible only through a narrow,
winding road. The air is thin and the
climb, arduous. Tourist guides will r
The climb to Tigers

Nest is arduous, but the
views are so spectacular
that you will forget that
your calves are on re
PHOTOGRAPH: GENTL & HYERS
having so much fun throwing stones

in a river that he wouldnt leave.
That Bhutan is incredibly beautiful
is well known, but the Phobjikha Valley
in Gangtey takes it up several levels.
The undulating expanse of green is like
a balm for your eyes. Every winter, a
flock of rare, endangered black-necked
cranes arrive from Tibet. According
to the WWF, 11,000 of these cranes
survive in the wild and every year,
some 300 spend the winter in the
valley. We spent a day trekking through
the woods and spotting cranes. It was
such an adventure that even my sevenyear-old daughter walked for hours
without complaint.
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Agenda
tell you that it is a four-hour trek, but
chances are youll take much longer.
But the views that this climb offers
are so spectacular that you will, at
least for a bit, forget that your calves
are on fire.
For our family, the journey to
Bhutan has been unending. We try
to go every year. On each visit, we
retrace our earlier steps (say hello to
the takins, visit the Punakha Dzong)
and we discover new and wondrous
spaces. On some days, we do nothing
at all but sit and inhale the mountain
air. Even the silence has texture here.
The pristine natural surroundings
and unbroken silence soothe the soul;
they offer us reason to pause. There
is nothing rushed about a holiday in
Bhutan. I have yet to visit another
country like it.
NEED TO KNOW: BHUTAN

Fly to Paro with
Drukair (www.drukair.
com) from Mumbai or
New Delhi. Indian citizens
are granted entry to
Bhutan on showing their
passport or Voters Identity
Card. Special permits
can be arranged by
your hotel to visit
restricted monasteries
and monuments.
The National Museum

of Bhutan
Housed in a 17th-century
watchtower, the museum
showcases the nations
rich heritage. (www.
nationalmuseum.gov.bt)
Taktsang Lhakhang
Tigers Nests clifftop perch
offers some of the best
views in Bhutan. (www.
tigersnestbhutan.com)
PARO
THIMPHU
Uma by COMO, Paro

The villas here offer butler
service and activities such
as yoga and camping.
(www.comohotels.com)
Doubles from 27,130
Tigers Nest Resort
Close to the airport, this
hotel offers a direct view
of Tigers Nest monastery.
(www.tigersnest.bt)
Doubles from 5,500
Taj Tashi
The restaurants at this
hotel serve traditional
Bhutanese, Indian and
Continental food. (www.
tajhotels.com) Doubles
from 24,130
Hotel Druk
Located in the heart of
Thimphu, this four-star
hotel is close to all the
citys main attractions.
(www.drukhotels.com)
Doubles from 7,800
GOOD VALUE
Tshernyoens Caf
The best place in town for
coffee, cakes and muffins.
(+975 7725 2426)
GOOD VALUE
Bhutan Kitchen
Built in the traditional style,
this large restaurant serves

excellent local cuisine.
(+975 233 1919)
Ambient Caf
Coffee and pastries are
accompanied by free wi-.
(+975 1711 6661)
Art Caf
Bright and welcoming, this
is a great spot for cakes
and conversation. (+975
232 7933)
Karmas Coffee
It serves arguably the best
cappuccinos in town.
(+975 332 000)
The Zone
The yak burger here is
a must-try for adventurous
foodies. (+975 233 1441)
Swiss Bakery
This Thimphu institution
serves omelettes, cakes
and sandwiches. (+975
232 2259)
Bhutan Tiger Lounge and
Tiger Pub
Its USP is a karaoke
machine with a range
of music from K-pop
to Bollywood. (+975
1711 0021)
National Textile Museum

Discover textile techniques
unique to Bhutan. (+975
232 1516)
National Institute for
Zorig Chusum
See painters, weavers and
goldsmiths at work at this
shrine to Bhutans arts and
crafts. (+975 232 2302)
Buddha Dordenma
This 169ft statue overlooks
the Thimphu Valley. (www.
tourism.gov.bt)
Motithang Takin Preserve
It houses Bhutans
national animal, the takin.
(www.tourism.gov.bt)
Druk Pungthang Dechen

Phodrang Dzong
This palace is a holy site
for Mahayana Buddhists.
Trekking and river-rafting
Contact local tour
operators to arrange
your adventure activities.
GANGTEY
Amankora Gangtey
This lovely property
offers stunning views
of Phobjikha Valley.
(www.amanresorts.com)
Doubles from 47,325
PUNAKHA
Amankora Punakha
This beautiful lodge offers
great views and cuisine.
(www.amanresorts.com)
Doubles from 93,500
Meri Puensum Resort
Set above the Punakha
Valley, this serene hotel
offers excellent hospitality.
(www.meripuensum.
bt) Doubles from 2,200
GOOD VALUE
Gangtey Goemba
Explore ne Bhutanese
art and sculpture at
this monastery. (www.
tourism.gov.bt)
WHEN TO GO
From March to
May and September
to November are the
best times to visit.
The Bhutanese currency,
the ngultrum, is on par
with the Indian rupee.
MAP: GARIMA GUPTA
GETTING THERE
Agenda
ICE, ICE, BABY

PLAN
NOW
Rome is the imperial capital of ice cream, with a cornet on every corner,
so how can you tell the magnicent from the mediocre? Acionado
Harry Pearson has the scoop on the best places to go this summer
A double-scoop cornet of
vanilla and forest fruits
at Vice gelateria
ce cream in Rome is special, capable

of making you widen your eyes with
delight. While other Italian cities may
claim to have the nations best gelateria
(Gelateria Perch No! in Florence, say,
or Antico Caff Spinnato in Palermo,
Sicily), none has as many legitimate
contenders as Rome. It is common here
to see gentlemen in immaculate suits
and silk ties brandishing cornets piled
high with ice cream, in much the same
way that alpha males in other places
would a massive Havana cigar. Ice
cream isnt just for children hereits
for everyone. Here, we pick seven of the
Italian capitals favourite gelaterias, and
tell you what to order where.
Agenda
ROMES BEST
ICE CREAM PARLOURS
PALAZZO DEL FREDDO
GIOVANNI FASSI
This is the place for those seeking the

avours of yesteryear. It was founded
in 1880, making it the oldest gelateria
in Rome, if not in Italy. The pistachio
ice cream is superb and the interior
looks so much like something from
Roman Holiday, its tempting to work
your way through all 30 avours
on the off-chance that at some
point Audrey Hepburn will walk in.
(www.palazzodelfreddo.it)
IL GELATO DI
CLAUDIO TORC
PHOTOGRAPHS: NATO WELTON; VINCENTE PAGANO/SCATTIDIGUSTO.IT; FRANCESCO LAGNESE
The man held to be the torchbearer for

the new wave of Roman ice cream is
Claudio Torc. He wows customers not
only with the all-natural splendour of
his chocolate, fruit and nut avours but
also with new theatrical efforts such
as celery, Gorgonzola and vinegar, or
habanero chilli. I arrived at 9.30am
and asked the sales assistant what
she recommended for breakfast.
She pointed me to a scoop of ice
and yoghurt with forest fruits, plus
another of Alba hazelnut. Until Torc
comes up with an ice cream featuring
mushrooms and hash browns, this will
certainly do. (Viale Aventino 59)
GELATERIA DEL TEATRO

In a cobbled lane so perfect it looks as
if its been created by a set designer,
Teatro was founded in 2006 by
Stefano and Silvia Marcotulli. You can
watch through a window as 40 avours
are made daily. Try the sheeps-milk
ricotta with almond and g, the
raspberry and sage, or bitter chocolate
with red wine. (Via di San Simone 70)
NEVE DI LATTE
Owner Ermanno Di Pomponios

family has been making ice cream
since 1946; the milk and cream come
from a biodynamic farm in Bavaria.
The zabaglione is excellent, as is the
stracciatella, made with Amedei
chocolate. You can sit at a zinctopped table and eat your ice cream
while contemplating whether to
nish off with a blueberry sorbet.
(+39 06 320 8485)
VICE
I have always felt that frozen yoghurt
is the dairy equivalent of non-alcoholic
beer: it doesnt taste nice, but at
least its good for you. Vices fantastic
buffalo yoghurt and cracked caramel
blows this notion away. The pine-nut
variety, with its dusting of toasted
kernels, is arguably even better.
(www.viceitalia.it)
AL SETTIMO GELO
Theres no reason to visit the wellto-do Prati neighbourhood, except
for the ice cream, but its worth it.
Everything here is special, says one
of the two ladies perched on stools
eating cornets, as I dither over what

to pick. Its impossible to disagree.
Al Settimo serves up unique avours
such as rose water and saffron, and an
excellent cardamom. The plum sorbet
captures the bitter aftertaste of the
fruit perfectly. (www.alsettimogelo.it)
Top right: The
snow-white
interior of Vice.
Bottom, from left:
A table at Neve
di Latte; classic
lemon sorbets in
a Roman gelateria
AND THE BEST ICED COFFEE

SCIASCIA CAFF
My favourite iced coffee in Rome is
served at this wood-panelled caf,
founded just after World War I by
a family of Sicilian Marsala-makers.
The Caff Shakerato is made by
pouring chilled espresso into a cocktail
shaker with cracked ice, sugar and
usually Baileys Irish Cream, giving it
a vigorous wave around, and straining
it into a stubby glass. It doesnt come
with cream, so those who feel their
cholesterol levels are falling dangerously
low can instead opt for a hot espresso
with a scoop of chocolate ice cream in
it. (www.sciascia1919.com)
FATAMORGANA
Owner Maria Spagnuolo was trained
by Claudio Torc, and her branch near
the Piazza del Popolo is the most
central. I got there having eaten four
ice creams already, and was feeling
that maybe that was enough. It wasnt.
The pineapple has spicy shreds of root
ginger in it; the Panacea comes with
mint, ginseng and almond milk, and
genuinely feels as though its perking
you up. Chocolate-and-tobacco ice
cream is one for after dinner.
(www.gelateriafatamorgana.it)
Agenda
GO
NOW
GOAS MONSOON
HIGHLIGHTS
The rainy season is the perfect time to explore Goas dense forests, rare wildlife
and unique festivals, says Raksha Kumar. Illustration by Himanshu Lakhwani
MHADEI WILDLIFE
SANCTUARY
Situated in the Western Ghats,
its forests are home to rare
primates, including the slender
loris, and endangered amphibians
such as the Malabar ying frog,
as well as black leopards, tigers,
king cobras and giant squirrels.
Trek through vast expanses
of moist deciduous forests,
lush with semi-evergreen and
evergreen trees, or rent a 4x4
and go on a long drive. With
its team of trained guides,
Wildernest (www.wildernestgoa.com), in the Chorla ghats,
makes for a great base.
TEREKHOL FORT
The Bhosale rulers of Sawantwadi,
now in Maharashtra, built the
fort in the 17th century as a base
for their sizeable naval eet. It
came under Portuguese control
in the 18th century and became
a part of their maritime defences.
The Church of St Anthony, in the
courtyard, is still in use. All rooms
at the Tiracol Fort Heritage Hotel
(www.nilaya.com), which occupies
a portion of the fort, come with
jaw-dropping sea views.
TALAULIM
This village in north Goas Bardez area

is at the epicentre of the colourful Sao
Joao festival. Celebrated on 24 June,
in memory of Saint John the Baptist,
it is rooted in pre-Christian pagan
customs. Young men, and increasingly,
women, wear oral crowns and parade
through villages, accepting shots of
feni and sweets from locals before
jumping into wells and ponds. Head
to the Chapel of Sao Joao in Pereira
Vaddo, Siolim, in the afternoon.
The nearby riverbank is the venue
of an annual rock concert. Stay
at the heritage Siolim House
(http://siolimhouse.com) hotel
for a ringside view.
Come 29 July, all roads lead to the

magnicent 17th-century baroque
Church of St Anne in north Goa. In
a fascinating ritual, hundreds of
Christians and Hindus ock here
to offer whole cucumbers at the
annual Touxeamchem Fest and pray
for male offspring. The belief that
St Anne will bless women with boys
is furthered by the many mothers
who return each year, with their
sons, to give thanks to the deity. The
Grand Hyatt Goa (http://goa.grand.
hyatt.com), on Bambolim beach, is
a 15-minute drive from the church.
DUDHSAGAR FALLS
& DEVILS CANYON
Dudhsagar is a milky-white torrent
that races down the Western Ghats
for more than 1,000 feet. Nearby,
Devils Canyon is a fascinating
rock formation carved by the
Mandovi River. Youll nd both
these attractions in the Bhagwan
Mahavir Sanctuary, which is home
to a variety of animals, such as
deer, hyenas, tigers and otters,
and more than 120 species of bird.
Also within the sanctuary is the
gorgeous 10th-century Tambdi
Surla Shiva temple, built by the
Kadamba Yadava dynasty.
(www.goa-tourism.com)
PHOTOGRAPHS: ALAMY
SIOLIM
TRAVELLER PROMOTION
THE ONLY WAY TO TRAVEL

THE SWISS WAY
An intricate 26,000km grid of trains, buses and ships makes

every scenic corner of the country accessible
here is a train for every mountainview you would like to see. A boat for
every Swiss lake you would like to
cruise. And a bus to transport you to every
quaint destination, which you would like to
discover. Hop off a ight and hop on to a
train or bus, to follow your hearts itinerary.
The Swiss Travel System is an incredibly
well-planned internal transportation
network, which is at your disposal to do just
that. And, whichever mode of transport you
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be seen out of your window, you can rest
assured the journey will be as rewarding as
your nal destination.
Its perhaps a reection of the fact that
worlds haute horlogerie industry nds
its roots in the Swiss Jura mountains, but
the buses, trains and cruises arrive and
depart like clockwork. You can certainly set
your watch to it. The systems punctual,
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part: once you have a Swiss pass in hand,
you can enjoy unlimited free travel on all
trains, buses and boats and also the public
transportation systems of 75 cities. The

pass also allows you to travel on famous
panoramic routes like Glacier Express and
Golden Pass with just a small reservation fee.
Whether youre in Switzerland on a short
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pick from 4, 8, 15, 22 or a month-long pass.
Besides fetching you a 50percent discount
on most mountain rail- and cableways, The
Swiss Pass also gives you free access to
over 470 museums across the country, a
15percent discount on room rates at seven
hotel chains and much more. Also children
up to the age of 16 travel free if travelling
with at least one parent - ask for the free
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SPECIAL OFFER: Exploring the Swiss
Alps has become even easier in 2014, with
the Swiss Travel Systems special Swiss
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with the 4-day Swiss Pass or 49 Euros
with the 8-day Swiss Pass youll receive 8
mountain excursions for free including Mt
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Chamba Camp, Thiksey,

in Ladakh
Word of mouth
Whats hot around the world +London + Mumbai +Paris
NOMADIC STYLE
Laura Griffith-Jones reports on the new luxury camps that will give
you access to some of Indias most beautiful and remote regions
f youve dreamed of glamping it up in the Indian wilderness,
The 12 colonial-chic tents are kitted out with private decks,
we have good news for you. The Ultimate Travelling Camp (www.
four-poster beds, hot showers and, of course, valets at the ready.
theultimatetravellingcamp.com), or TUTC, is setting up high-
And TUTC promises that you wont be starved for culinary variety
end camps in breathtaking locations such as Kohima and Srinagar.

Open from June to September, Chamba Camp, Thiksey overlooks
the colourful Thiksey Monastery in Ladakh, and is encircled by the
either; the chefs can rustle up anything from Thai-style steamed

prawns to tasty dosas. A ve-night all-inclusive itinerary costs
from 61,340 per person on a twin-sharing basis.
lunar landscape and dramatic peaks of this high-altitude desert.
Situated on the 100-year-old Pullaveli Coffee Estate near
You can join monks playing cricket, try your hand at archery, raft
Kodaikanal, Wander Land (http://wanderland.in) offers a more
down the Indus River and attend local eventstime your trip to the
affordable glamping option. At 3,000 per person per night, all-
33rd Kalachakra festival (www.ladakhkalachakra2014.com) on 3-14
inclusive, it offers Native American-style tepees with attached
July, which includes rituals led by the Dalai Lama, or the challenging
bathrooms. Bison and barking deer might be your neighbours,
ZENdurance Ladakh marathon (www.zendurance.co.in) on 19-20 July.
but thats just part of the experience.
Word of mouth
THE GREAT
BOMBAY BAKE-OFF
A new wave of bakers, from ptisserie pros to
sticky-ngered amateurs, is giving the city a fresh sugar fix
LE 15 PTISSERIE
Le Cordon Bleu
graduate Pooja
Dhingra churns
out jewel-toned
macaroons,
cupcakes, tarts
and more.
Star turn:
The darkchocolate macaroon
is the rst thing on
the menu to sell out.
(http://le15.co.in)
SWEETISH
HOUSE MAFIA
More smart car
than truck, this
mobile ptisserie
is stocked by an
anonymous baker
who announces
the contents and
location of its next
drop on Facebook.
Star turn: The moreish
Nutella Sea Salt cookies.
(www.facebook.com/
sweetishhousemaa)
ICING ON TOP
A master of
miniatures, Ayushi
Shah is the go-to
name for cake pops,
bite-sized cookies,
baby cupcakes and
other tiny treats.
Star turn: The
cinnamon minicookies. (www.
icingontop.in)
COUNTRY
OF ORIGIN
Known for innovative presentation,
this ptisserie whips up a host of rich
desserts, including traditional
French and German puddings,
many of which are served
cntraveller.in
in neat glass jars.
For more on
Star turn: The Haute
the city, read
Chocolate Jar layered with
our Mumbai
cookie dough and hazelnut.
city guide
(www.countryoforigin.in)
online
JASREEN MAYAL KHANNA
Bring back from... Dubai
Take home one of The Camel Companys cool collection

of novelty notepads. Theyre available in a number of
funky graphic designs, all depicting the city's impressive
skyline. (www.camelcompany.ae) From AED19 ( 310)
THIS
MATTERS
t was a two-week rickshaw journey
from Jaisalmer to Kerala that convinced
Renyung Ho and Yvonne Suner to found
Matter, a brand of chic, comfortable trousers
for travellers. Based in Singapore, this
socially conscious brand aims to create
better economic opportunities for artisans.
Its rst collection, called Freedom
(above), features designs inspired by
heritage patterns and traditional garments
such as the dhoti and Vietnamese ao dai,
and was loomed by hand in Rajasthan.
An important part of the brands mission
is to champion the stories behind the
clothes. For us, its really about where
and how something is made, says Ho.
From May to July, mini pop-ups, in the
form of stylish nomad carts, will travel
across Singapores key cultural and retail
spaces. (http://matterprints.com) From
US$80 ( 4,820) SAMANTHA KUOK LEESE
TEXT: CECILY WALKER
LA FOLIE
This new ptisserie
imports quality
ingredients from all
over the world to
create macaroons
and multi-layered
desserts that look
like works of art.
Star turn: The sweetsalty Innite Caramel
pastry. (www.lafolie.in)
TRAVELLER PROMOTION
HONEYMOON
HIDEWAY
One of the best parts of saying I do is the honeymoon

that follows. Make off to the Grand Hyatt Goa and make
it your romantic retreat
ne thing is certain about your stay at

Grand Hyatt Goa: youll be spoilt for
choice, as honeymooners should be.
28 acres of colourful tropical gardens, 312
luxurious rooms and suites with 77 rooms
that offer breath-taking sea views, seven
uniquely-designed bars and restaurants that
offer cuisines like home-style Indian, panAsian, Middle Eastern or Continental. Dont
miss the hotels signature seafood restaurant,
The Verandah now with a new menu crafted
by celebrated Chef Shane ONeil. And as you
lounge by the poolside, savour Pool Bar &
Grills comfort food, all day grilled dishes, fresh
salads, sandwiches, char-grilled burgers, pan
pizzas and more. Theres lavish arrangements
by the dozen. A complimentary continental
breakfast, evening cocktails and canaps
in the Grand Club, a private celebration

dinner al fresco-style amidst the cool breeze
of Bambolim bay and the beautiful sunset
backdrop and romantic sailing adventures on
the backwaters of Goa await you. But theres
more.
Theres the supremely indulgent 1,300
square-foot Shamana Spa. With 19 spa
suites on offer six are designed specially for
couples and come with petal-covered plunge
pools. Theres even a special Ayurveda suite
the space will leave you spellbound, as will
the award-winning spas bespoke Balinese,
Thai and Ayurvedic treatments. An absolute
must-try is the Hot Stone Candle Therapy,
new on the menu, the deep penetrating heat
will release all your muscle tension and leave
you feeling fantastically rejuvenated. Or go
for the June Jacobs signature treatment, a

conditioning and hydrating session for the
body, face, hands and feet. Rest assured, youll
be glowing and feeling great at the end of it.
Saving the best for last, the resort can even
arrange a private, specially-curated aromatic
bath in your suite. Whether its the sweet
seduction of the Rose Bath, or its the magical
effects of the Sandalwood Bath, both spell
romance and relaxation at its best.
For more information,
call 0832 301 1234 or visit
www.goa.grand.hyatt.com.
Word of mouth
Rooftop jaunts
The Rooftop Bar
The Roof
This hotspot has

recently opened on
the 22nd oor of the
boutique Archer hotel
in Midtown Manhattan.
Enjoy a variety of tipples
and culinary delights
while gazing over the
Chrysler and Empire
State Buildings. (http://
archerhotel.com)
Renowned design rm
Roman and Williams has
worked hard to make this
bar at The Viceroy New
York, on Manhattans
57th Street, look like a
luxury yacht. Guests can
enjoy cocktails and small
plates, as well as sweeping
views of Central Park.
(http://theroofny.com)
bar 54
Knickerbocker
Hotels rooftop bar
Located on the 54th

oor of the Hyatt Times
Square New York, bar
54 is now NYCs highest
rooftop lounge. All eyes
are on its unparalleled
views of Manhattan as
well as its innovative
menutry the signature
Miracle on 45th Street,
made with Champagne,
pisco, grapefruit
juice and homemade
lavender syrup. (http://
timessquare.hyatt.com)
Built in 1906, this iconic

Beaux-Arts building was
once a stomping ground
for the Times Square
glitterati. The original
hotel closed in 1921 but
its set to reopen this
summer after a huge
makeover. When it does,
its 7,500sq-ft rooftop
bar will be one of the
hottest wateringholes out there. (www.
theknickerbocker.com)
The view from The Roof

at The Viceroy New York
HEAVEN AND HELL

Theres an explosion of cool new rooftop bars and hot subterranean dens in New York.
Aarti Cooper picks the best of the City that Never Sleeps
Underground haunts
Sweetwater Social
At this new 3,000sq-ft
dive in Manhattans West
Village, the bartenders
conjure up top-notch
cocktails and streetinspired bar bites
selected from a menu
laid out on a New York
City Subway map. The
vibe here is non-fussy
and trendy. (www.sweet
watersocialny.com)
Botanic Lab
Cosy interiors
at Play
Mexican mixologist
Miguel Aranda is one
of the men behind this
Lower East Side cellar.
His deep knowledge
and mastery of spices,
creative mixology and
unusual ingredients
is evident in the bars
unique cocktail list,
including the Midori Tails
(gin, yuzu, edamame

pure) and the Tonka
Bean Manhattan, a spin
on the classic drink,
which uses a rare South
American pod that
adds notes of vanilla,
almond and spice.
(www.botaniclabny.com)
Play
This sexy bar opened
last year on Manhattans
East 27th Street. The
cosy seating areas are
divided by bookshelves,
giving each table some
privacy. The quirky
concoctions on the menu
(or Field Guide, as they
call it) are categorised
into Demure, Kinky and
Curious, and designed
to take you on a roller
coaster of tastes. (www.
willyouplaywith.us)
Your universe. In the heart of the city.

At Trident you are where the city converges and the world meets. With our bright and
well designed rooms, exciting cuisine, indulgent spa therapies and exceptional service,
we create your own personal haven. Thats the Trident difference.
C - 56, G Block, Bandra Kurla Complex, Mumbai 400051, Phone: 022 66727777
Stay at Trident, Bandra Kurla, Mumbai starting at Rs 8,500 per night

Earn 1000 Trident Privilege bonus points on booking online at tridenthotels.com
Bandra Kurla, Mumbai
Word of mouth
As cool as ice
To celebrate the upcoming 25th

birthday of the worlds rst ice
hotel, in Sweden, we list ve
things you didnt know about it
1. Every year, a group of designers and
sculptors are own in to build ICEHOTEL,
in the village of Jukkasjrvi, 200km north
of the Arctic Circle. Each art suite is
designed by different artists; Up There
(above), for example, is the masterful
creation of Luc Voisin and Mathieu Brison.
2. ICEHOTEL is only open between
December and mid-April and, in the
summer, it melts back into the River Torne.
3. You can get married in the Ice Church,
which can accommodate up to 45 guests.
4. The hotel is one of Virgin Galactics
Accredited Space Agents, so book a trip
on the worlds rst private space line and
experience space travel. (Note: it requires
three days training at the rst purposebuilt commercial spaceport in New Mexico.)
5. ICEHOTELs proximity to Abiskos Aurora
Sky Station offers a great opportunity to
see the Northern Lights from an overnight
camp, on horseback or on a snowmobile tour.
(www.icehotel.se) AARTI COOPER
To read more about the Northern Lights,
turn to Fatima Bhuttos account on p144
mong the young baristas ridding Paris of its

bad-coffee rep, Thomas Lehoux (below right) is
a bit of a star. He trained at La Cafothque de
Paris (www.lacafeotheque.com), one of the rst places in
Paris to roast and grind its own beans, and until recently,
manned the Marzocco gear at Ten Belles (www.tenbelles.
com). Now hes co-founded his own roastery, Belleville
Brlerie (www.cafesbelleville.com), in the edgy 19th
arrondissement. If you go to the usual corner cafs, its
still hard to nd good coffee, he says. But because of the
French relationship with wine and gastronomy, the great
thing is that as soon as Parisians understand that what
were doing is special, theyre in. The roastery supplies
beans from Guatemala and Honduras to cafs across
Paris, including new cocktails-and-coffee bar Lockwood
(www.lockwoodparis.com), run by Lehouxs brothers,
Olivier and Christophe (below left and middle). Every
Saturday, it is open to the public for tastings and some
of the best coffee in Paris. SOPHIE DENING
Paris
coffee tips
Dont know your
single origin from your
crema? Mon dieu!
(Thats beans from one
farm and the foam on
your espresso, FYI.)
Read on
DO note fruity, hoppy
and, yes, winey notes.
DONT ask for decaf
or soy milk.
DO slag off Italian
espressos. Old
rivalries die hard.
DONT expect to
get a decent coffee
before 8am. Where
do you think you
are? Melbourne?
DO ask for your
espresso bien
serr (strong).
DONT look shocked
if youre invited to
do some cupping
(analysing the
aromas by sniffing
and slurping).
DO look interested
in extraction times
(how long it takes
for your espresso
to be poured) and
reverse osmosis.
In full bloom
Celebrated jeweller Nirav Modis love of travel

has taken him all over Europe, from the Uffizi
Gallery in Florence to Muse dOrsay in Paris.
This Lotus Collection ring (right) is inspired by
his visit to Impressionist painter Claude Monets
gardens in Giverny, France, home to the artists
famed water lilies. (www.niravmodi.com)
NEW OPENING The luxurious Sourenee Tea Estate, near Darjeeling, offers activities such as tea picking, tasting and treks. (www.soureneetea.com)
PHOTOGRAPH: CHRISTOPHER HAUSER TEXT: JASREEN MAYAL KHANNA
SOMETHING
BREWING
A
TRAVELLER PROMOTION
ROMANCE IN AMAZING
THAILAND
From laidback luxury to beachside glamour and from outdoor adventure to city
splendour, Thailand presents your perfect honeymoon to you on a platter
hailand is often described as one

the worlds dream honeymoon
destinations, and it is easy to see
why. Thailand is one destination that
breathes romance. The most exotic beaches,
picturesque landscapes, luxury resorts,
warm weather, cuisine and culture make it a
dream destination for honeymooners.
Here are the countrys top honeymoon
destinations.
activities like windsurng, snorkelling and scuba

diving or even go for a luxurious romantic cruise.
KOH RACHA
Half an hour by speedboat (or approximately
two hours by normal boat) from Chalong
Pier in Phuket, this laidback island has cosy
hotels, powdery beaches and is a paradise for
snorkelling lovers.
KOH PHA NGAN

Just 30 minutes from Koh Samui by boat,
this is a white sand beach resort for anyone
who wants to escape the crowd. For fun
lovers, we suggest Haad Rin Beach, which is
famous for its Full Moon Party every month.
KOH MADSUM
This beach offers a panoramic view of the

Andaman Sea, a variety of boutique and
luxurious hotels and is approximately an hour
away from Phuket by normal boat.
Koh Madsum is an ultimate gateway for the

honeymoon couple, with pristine beaches
and a serene atmosphere. It will take only
20 minutes by longtail boat from Koh
Samui (and 10 minutes by speedboat) to
get there.
KHAO LAK
KRABI
About 45 minutes from Phuket international

Airport, youll nd a variety of white sand beaches
(such as Pakarang Beach, Bang Nieng Beach,
Bang Sak beach) here. You can easily escape to
Simiran Island for a one-day trip. There is a wide
range of hotels available here.
With its display of characteristic beaches and

the qualied soft coast of the Andamans, ne
white sand, warm clear water and lush tropical
greenery spilling onto the shore, it provides a
dramatic backdrop for an ideal honeymoon.
PHUKET
KOH SAMUI
The pristine beaches enveloped by the

turquoise waters of the Andaman Sea make
Phuket Thailands most popular honeymoon
destination. Couples can sip on sunset
cocktails at dreamy locations or indulge in
Crystal-clear water, grassy hills and swaying

palm trees provide a tranquil backdrop for
honeymooners. The island has magnicent
beaches, excellent dive spots, secluded inlets
and amazing restaurants.
The largest of the 50-plus islands in the local

archipelago, this relaxing paradise effortlessly
caters to all budget types with its west-coast
parade of peach sand each beach better
than the next. Fly to Krabi airport and transfer
to the pier by ferry or speedboat.
BANGKOK
Bangkok, the city of angels, is home to
the worlds nest luxury hotels, endless
shopping delights and extraordinarily
delicious local and international cuisine, all
presented with inimitable Thai panache. A
booming metropolis, Bangkok still manages
to retain its old-world charm and hospitality
that captivate and delight visitors from
across the globe.
KOH YAO NOI
KOH LANTA
TRAVELLER PROMOTION
Chiang Rai
Chiang Mai
Sukhothai
Bangkok
Pattaya
Rayong
Hua Hin Koh Samet
Koh Chang
Koh Phangan
Koh Samui
Khao Lak
Krabi
Phuket
CHIANG MAI
A charming city boasting ancient temples,
it is the perfect Thai honeymoon location to
explore the natural beauty and remote tribal
villages in the surrounding mountains and
valleys. Trek across the countryside on an
elephant and raft down a raging river before
enjoying a massage and a stroll through the
famous night market.
CHIANG RAI
Known as the jewel of the north, Chiang
Rai is a land of outstanding natural beauty,
where visitors looking to avoid the hordes
can visit remote hill tribes, spot exotic
wildlife, and check out the golden triangle,
the former centre of the worlds opium trade.
PRAN BURI
Just 2.5 hours by car from Bangkok (30
minutes further south from Hua Hin), you
can hide away on its unspoilt beaches and
variety of boutique and luxury hotels.
KOH SAMET
Known as a Magical Crystal Island on the
east coast of Thailand (approximately two
hours from Pattaya), you can hide away in its
crystal waters and white sand beaches. This
is also a paradise for fresh seafood lovers.
KOH KOOD
The island of Koh Kood is located 350km
southeast of Bangkok and 80km off the
Thai mainland. The fourth largest island
in the country, it remains remarkably

undeveloped. Untouched slopes, wild
interiors and immaculate beaches compose
its raw glamour, making it a real hideaway
destination for couples.
SI KAO TRANG
Experience the magic of a Si Kao holiday
just an hour south of Krabi International
Airport. This beautiful and idyllic destination
is an ideal choice for honeymooners. Take
a speedboat to the powdery white sands of
Koh Kradan and the nearby islands.
SUKHOTHAI
Hide away in the Dawn of Happiness province,
a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Sukhothai lies
approximately ve hours by car from Bangkok
to the north, or just 1.15 hours away by plane.
Loi Krathong is one of the most popular events
in Sukhothai. With the stunning backdrop of
this wonderful heritage site under the light of
the full moon night in the 12th lunar month (6
November this year), it is the most romantic
period of the year.
together doing something meaningful

by volunteering for an activity you are
interested in. This will be a powerful
bonding experience for you as a couple
which will deepen and affirm your
relationship. For more details,
visit www.honeyteeringthailand.com.
HONEYTEERING: WE GOT SO
MUCH LOVE TO GIVE
Volunteer activities that the couple can
experience during their honeymoon trip.
Planning a honeymoon or celebrating
an anniversary? Make it unique and
meaningful. Enjoy a romantic getaway
at a luxury hotel and share special time
For more information, visit the Tourism

Authority of Thailand website on www.
tourismthailand.org
www.facebook.com/tatnewdelhi
www.facebook.com/tatmumbai
Word of mouth
YUEN PO STREET BIRD
GARDEN, Hong Kong
This market is designed like
a traditional Chinese garden,
and has stalls selling hundreds
of birds, including a variety of
parrots, sparrows and bulbuls.
You can also buy beautiful
bamboo cages, porcelain water
dishes and other bird-related
paraphernalia here.
AALSMEER FLOWER
AUCTION, Netherlands
BAZAAR LOVE
Looking for a bamboo birdcage or a lacquer bangle?
Jasreen Mayal Khanna lists 10 quirky markets
Also known as Choodi Bazaar,

this market resides in one
of the main lanes off the famous
Charminar monument, and
sells millions of lacquer bangles
studded with colourful crystals.
SPICE BAZAAR, Istanbul

Turkeys Misir arsisi (spice
bazaar) has been around since
the Ottoman Empire, and sells
myriad spices such as aniseed,
saffron and nutmeg, dried fruits
and nuts, as well as desserts
including lokum (Turkish Delight)
and apple tea.
PONTE VECCHIO,
Florence
The oldest bridge in Florence
turned into a jewellery market in
1593, when Duke Ferdinand I
declared that only goldsmiths
and jewellers would be allowed to
have their shops here. There are
It showcases fresh Californian

produce and a variety of artisan
goods. Dont miss the most
popular stops: Blue Bottle Coffee,
McEvoy Ranch (for its extra-virgin
olive oil), Far West Fungi (for
speciality mushrooms), Pressed
Juicery and Recchiuti Confections.
numerous stores selling modern

and antique jewellery on Ponte
Vecchio. Try R Fallaci for Florentine
motifs and family-run Oro Due for
traditional, handcrafted pieces.
GOLD SOUK, Dubai

Located in the business district
of Deira, the Gold Souk is
a dazzling sight of more than
300 gold-jewellery stores from
established brands such as
Damas to smaller, local retailers.
TSUKIJI MARKET, Tokyo

This is one of the largest and
busiest sh markets in the world.
Get there at 5am to watch its
famed tuna auction, which only
allows 120 visitors per day.
KINARI BAZAAR,
New Delhi
Located off Chandni Chowk,
this market sells primarily fabric
borders (kinaris) and glittery
embellishments, created using
FERRY PLAZA FARMERS

MARKET, San Francisco
kundan, zardozi, sequins, thread

and lace. The place is especially
good for nding wedding
trinkets, but you can also buy
everything from carvings to
decorations that you can
attach to clothing.
SOUTH BUND FABRIC

MARKET, Shanghai
This indoor market has
multiple oors of fabric shops,
selling silks, cotton, wool and
more. Each store also offers
inexpensive tailoring services.
Top left and left: Laad Bazaar,

Hyderabad. Top: Yuen Po Street Bird
Garden, Hong Kong. Below: Fish on
sale at Tsukiji Market, Tokyo
PHOTOGRAPHS: TOM PARKER; ALAMY; AMANDA
HALL, ROBERT HARDING WORLD IMAGERY/CORBIS
LAAD BAZAAR, Hyderabad
The worlds largest ower market

is located in Aalsmeer, an hour
from Amsterdam. The sheer
quantity of colourful ora is an
awe-inspiring sight, with 200 lakh
owers being sold daily.
TRAVELLER PROMOTION
Classic Itinerary:Israel
Take in the sights and sounds of this historic country
with the help of our 10-day trip
EIN GEDI (Day 8)

Stay at a local kibbutz guest
house in this biblical oasis,
where David hid from King Saul.
This spot is on the western
shore of the Dead Sea and
has a unique climate and
atmosphere. You can choose
to hike here and have the
traditional Bedouin food, but
the majority of people come
here for its healing hot springs,
mineral waters and hot baths.
Dont miss: A visit to its nature
reserves, Nakhal David and
Nakhal Arugot. Here, you can
spot ibexes and other animals.
JERUSALEM (Days 1 & 2) Start your

Israeli trip with a visit to the holy city of Jerusalem.
Explore its rich culture by going to the Mount of
Olivesit offers panoramic views of the Old City. Also
take the Ramparts Walk and visit the Western Wall,
Judaisms most sacred site. Go to Mount Zion to
visit King Davids Tomb, the Jewish Quarter and the
Tower of David Museum. But dont leave the New City
behindit has the Israeli parliament (Knesset), the
Supreme Court building and the Israel Museum.
Dont miss: The Old Citys markets for some truly
vintage nds and tantalising aromasjust make sure
you bargain hard.
TEL AVIV (Days 3-5) Once youre

done seeing Jerusalem, move on to Israels
second most populous city. Start with Old
Jaffa, where you can explore the old lanes lled
with galleries and shops. Tour Tel Avivs White
City where you can see buildings of Bauhaus
architecture. This city is also the place to go to if
you like to party all night longclubs dont open
before midnight and only get going after 1.30am.
Dont miss: An evening in Sheinkin Street, which is
famous for its shopping and dining options as well
as the open-air Carmel fruit and vegetable market.
THE DEAD SEA

(Day 9) Drive down the
HAIFA (Day 6) Israels third-largest city

has the magnicent Bahai Shrine and Gardens,
but thats not the only reason its so popular with
tourists. Situated along the Mediterranean coast,
this is the ideal place for surng, windsurng and
other water sports.
Dont miss: The nearby walled Arabic port city,
Acre, which is well-known for its ancient bazaars,
mosques, and harbourside restaurants. Also see
the Templars Tunnel, where you can experience
the history of the Templar Order.
GALILEE (Day 7) The Galilee mountains are rugged

and beautiful, with a number of small towns in and around
them. Make the mountaintop city of Safed your base, from
where you can drive to and explore surrounding towns.
Baram has an ancient synagogue thats well worth a visit and
youll nd nature reserves and springs at Baniyas and Tel Dan.
Make sure you taste some of the native Druze cuisine in the
villages and visit the surrounding area of the sea of Galilee,
where Jesus walked on water.
Dont miss: A visit to Nazareth, the childhood home of
Jesusit has some magnicent churches and lively markets.
Jordan Valley to the Dead

Sea. The lowest place on
earth is a natural health spa,
where you can get treated of
various bodily ailments. Stop
at Qumran, the ruins of an
ancient settlement in whose
nearby caves the Dead Sea
Scrolls were discovered.
Dont miss: The therapeutic
mud, mineral and massage
treatments at Kibbutz Ein
Gedi Spa.
EILAT (Day 10) This is the last stop

on your trip to Israel. Youll nd a number
of activities on the Red Sea Riviera. You can
tour the Underwater Observatory Marine
Park, swim with the dolphins, ride a camel
into the mountains, hike, bird-watch, or
simply chill by the beach.
Dont miss: Scuba-diving along the coral
reef, which has some truly exotic Indian
Ocean marine animals.
To plan this classic itinerary to Israel,

call Thomas Cook on 022 66091255/1276/1296
or email indulgence@in.thomascook.com
Word of mouth
Shaking up Manhattans West Side, the High Line (www.the

highline.org) is a 1.6km-long park built on what used to be
a railway line. With the nal section opening later this year,
theres been a growth in High Line-inspired greenery across
the globe. Over on NEW YORK CITYs Lower East Side, architect James
Ramsey and former Google marketing executive Dan Barasch raised
money on Kickstarter to get the Lowline (www.thelowline.org) off the
ground, or more accurately, under it. The plan? To turn an abandoned
tram terminal into an underground park, using solar panels and breoptics to bring in the sun.
CHICAGO unveils its version of the High Line this year, too: The
Bloomingdale Trail (www.the606.org), along about 4.2km of a former
freight line.
In LONDON, Thomas Heatherwicks The Garden Bridge (www.
gardenbridgetrust.org) doesnt need to dig deep for a plot: it will stretch
367 metres over the Thames, from Temple to the South Bank.
And in place of the Rossiya Hotel next to Red Square, MOSCOW will
have Zaryadye Park (www.parkzaryadye.com) from Diller Scodio +
Renfro, the design studio behind the High Line. Just as the High Line
translates the unruly beauty that took root after the railway fell into
disuse, Zaryadye is inspired by the cobblestones of the Red Square
overgrown with nature, says Ricardo Scodio. The natural and the
articial co-habit to create a new type of park. FIONA KERR
WALK
ON BY
Q&A We ask tness

professional and author,
Rujuta Diwekar, how to
stay well on the road
Whats the ultimate wellness escape?

A: Theres no need to escape for wellness; its as
natural as breathing. But there are some experiences
where you feel more in touch with yourself, such as
hiking in a remote regionalthough, to me, trekking
is more than an escape; its a pilgrimage.
Do you have any tips or tricks for business travellers?

A: Eat local fruit, wherever you are, and walk as often as you can.
Always take the stairs rather than an escalator or lift. Book a Thai
massage to really relax. Dont switch on the TV as soon as you enter
the hotel room. Silence is restorative. And have the courage to switch
off your gadgets. The weight automatically drops off and life shapes
up like never before.
How should jet-setters stay healthy when travelling?

A: The key is to plan your meals in advance. What we eat and drink
and how much we move make a big difference to how bloated or
beautiful we feel when were on the go.
What would you recommend for an active family holiday?

A: The perfect break with children is trekking in the Indian Himalayas
(above). Exposing your children to a life beyond malls, fairground
rides and McDonalds helps them understand that happiness lies
in being close to nature, that freedom, discipline and respect for the
environment arent mutually exclusive and that leaves create better
music than loud speakers and parties.
DONT LOSE OUT, WORK OUT! by Rujuta Diwekar (Westland;
250) is out now LAURA GRIFFITH-JONES
Essential for kids
Travelling with your brood just got easier with this

new product from ZizzyBee Bags (www.zizzybeebags.
com; from US$15.99 or 960 for three). Quirky, compact
and zippable, these fun, transparent bagsavailable
in Emerald Dot, Tangerine Trees and Bright Stripes
(right)are perfect for containing your kids clutter.
PHOTOGRAPHS: JAMES CORNER FIELD OPERATIONS AND DILLER

SCOFIDIO + RENFRO. COURTESY OF THE CITY OF NEW YORK AND FRIENDS
OF THE HIGH LINE; INDIA PICTURE; GALEN ROWELL/CORBIS
Park life
HEALTH
DRIVE
ALL-NEW DELIGHTS AT
THE CHINA KITCHEN
Hyatt Regency Delhis The China Kitchen restaurant now has an all-new menu
f youre travelling to capital this season,

heres a meal you cant afford to miss. The
China Kitchen at the Hyatt Regency Delhi
has introduced an all-new menu, the largest
and most extensive since its launch in 2007.
Located adjacent to the hotels pool, The
China Kitchen has four separate areas: an
open kitchen, ve skilfully designed private
dining rooms, a wine wall and tea bar, and a
dining area. Done up in traditional Chinese
style, the restaurant resembles a local
house and is surrounded by double-glazed
walls on all sides.
The China Kitchen is well known in Delhis
high-prole circles for its exquisite Peking
duck, beggars chicken, Sichuan poached
sliced lamb and a variety of dumplings. But
now executive chef Marin Leuthard with
his brigade of highly skilled chefs, each a
craftsman in his own right have taken on
Chef Jack Aw Yongs new authentic Chinese
menu, which features specialities such as
steamed rice shao mai, steamed crispy
tofu, baked shrimp cabbage roll, traditional
pumpkin soup, slow-cooked peppery lamb
leg and sea bass sh papilliotte. Foodies can
choose from 31 types of dumplings and a
variety of creative desserts.
And lest you worry that its not all

authentic, this is bound to change your mind.
A large number of vegetables are organic and
grown on the hotels farms using traditional
Chinese seeds.
The private dining rooms, named after
the provinces of China, also point to the
chefs origins Sichuan, Hubei, Guangzhou,
Anhui and Hunan. Each room will offer you
special cuisine and a music menu. Theres
also karaoke equipment available if you seek
additional entertainment. The restaurant itself
is done up like a Chinese tea room and offers

a wide selection of aromatic Chinese teas. The
specially designed wine wall showcases the
extensive wine selection, stored at the correct
temperature to suit all connoisseurs.
So whether youre going for a business
lunch, a casual outing or a private dinner,
The China Kitchen is the ideal place to treat
yourself to some really good food.
For more information and reservations,
please call 011 6677 1334 or visit
www.delhi.regency.hyatt.com.
TRAVELLER PROMOTION
STYLISH TRAVEL WITH

SAMSONITE BLACK LABEL
Whether youre going on a business trip to Boston, a family holiday to
London, a bachelorette to Koh Samui or a wedding to Dubai, Samsonites
Black Label bags can full all your travel needs
amsonite embarks on another exciting

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adding a wickedly bold twist to their
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With so much going for it, the Python
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SAMSONITE BLACK
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Most suitable for: The modern
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Are you perpetually on the road, off again on
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Whether you need a tote bag, briefcase,
laptop backpack or mobile office spinner,
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Label Lider collection. Carrying your laptop
around town? The Lider laptop range comes
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the move but do not want to sacrice style
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From trip planning to the journey itself,

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Where to stay
Our picks in + Kolkata + Bengaluru +Johannesburg
A view of The Shard and

Tower Bridge, London
T
SHANGRI-LA HOTEL,
+ CNT EXCLUSIVE +
AT THE SHARD,
LONDON
SNEAK PEEK
Writing for Cond Nast Traveller India, Rick Jordan

summits the tallest hotel in western Europe and finds theres
a lot more to please the senses than just the view
he hushed expectation around the

opening of the Shangri-La Hotel,
At The Shard, Londonthe Hong
Kong-based groups rst UK hotelhas
been akin to that surrounding a mission to
Mars. Launch dates came and went: rst,
the Olympics in 2012, then last summer.
But in May, the nal fuel checks were done,
the crew briefed and the hotel cleared for
lift-off. So has it all been worth the wait?
Set in the Renzo Piano-sculpted
skyscraper, the tallest building in western
Europe, this hotel will always be described
in superlatives. The street-level caf-lobby is
a glass-insulated bubble, quiet and Zen-like, r
Where to stay
with the gentle chime of a shimmering
chandelier. The atmosphere is calm
and reassuring, much needed before
guests are sent hurtling up 420ft in
just 26 seconds.
Step out of the elevator on the 35th oor
and you may need to grab hold of a wall for
support. The views are staggering, giving
an almost aerial perspective of London:
the Thames and landmarks such as Tower
Bridge and the Gherkin. The sweeping
window-side staircase is set to appear in
countless wedding videos and, on the 52nd
oor, you can swim towards innity in the
pool, then climb out for a cocktail at the
adjoining G NG bar, which offers several
gins, including locally made Jensen's
Gin from Bermondsey. Try the signature
cocktails, which include Bermondsey
Bubbles (gin with Champagne, bitters, rose
and a sugar shard) and The Big Smoke (gin
with sherry, amaranto and orange bitters).
In some of the 202 guestrooms and
suites, the bathtubs are positioned for
optimum viewing; in others, the desks sit
by the precipice (could anyone really work
with the fascinating ebb and ow of the city
out there?). North-facing rooms overlook
the historic city and south-facing ones gaze
over the South London sprawl towards Kent
and Sussex. The rooms vary in proportion
(though even the smallest, at 322sq ft,
feels sizeable for London) and are as neat
as a well-cut cheongsam, kitted out with
binoculars, a Nespresso machine, heated
loo seats and bathroom ooring, mirrors with
integrated TVs and fragrant Aqua di Parma
bathroom amenities.
Guests will enjoy foraging at T NG, the
Asian restaurant where afternoon teas
Asian and Englishare a highlight, and
the mains include sea bass with butternut
squash in an Earl Grey sauce and Welsh
lamb with mirin, sake and soy glaze. The
chef is from Penang, so expect lots of
fragrant, spicy Malaysian dishes, too,
such as curry laksa (egg noodles).
If you want to dip into Londons sizzling
food scene, book a tour with one of the
chefs to Borough Market and bag up Isle
of Wight tomatoes, samphire, scallops
and even mangosteen, all to be cooked
at the restaurant later.
Because of its location, business guests
were always expected (high-speed wi- is
complimentary) at the hotel. But there has
been a surprising number of leisure and
family bookings (the 24-hour laundry
valet is sure to be kept busy). On second
A guest bedroom at the

hotel. Above: The interiors of
G NG, the Asian restaurant
The views give an aerial perspective of London:

the Thames, the Tower of London and the Gherkin
thought, though, that makes perfect sense.
Apart from the sheer thrill of altitude, theres
a roll call of London attractions at your feet:
the HMS Belfast docked on the Thames
below, as well as the Golden Hinde II, Tower
of London, St Pauls, Shakespeares Globe,
the Tate Modern and the London Eye.
Just look out of the window and plan your
adventure. When the sun shines, blackout
blinds unfurl down the windowsbut
I imagine most guests will reach for
the override controls.
THE SHANGRI-LA HOTEL, AT THE

SHARD, LONDON
31 St Thomas Street, London (www.
shangri-la.com) Doubles from 450
( 45,880)
GETTING THERE
Fly to London with British Airways (www.
britishairways.com) or Jet Airways (www.
jetairways.com) from all major Indian cities.
WHEN TO GO
Visit during the British summer in June,
July and August and hope for some sun.
Where to stay
THE CORNER COURTYARD

KOLKATA
A new boutique hotel in the heart of West Bengals capital is offering visitors a whole
new way of experiencing the city, says Janhavi Acharekar
ittle has changed in Kolkata since I

lived there as a child, wending my way
home from school, past the 110-yearold Chatterjee home at the corner of Sarat
Bose Road. Today, it is no longer the city of my
memories, but much remains the samethe
trams, colonial clubs, jhaal muri, breakfast at
Flurys and the Chatterjee home. The latter
has been restored as a charming boutique
heritage hotel and restaurant, appropriately
called The Corner Courtyard.
Located in the heart of the city, it has
seven rooms, each with a theme based on
the citys coloursVermilion with its Durga
Puja imagery; Cadmium Yellow for the
yellow Ambassador taxi; Charcoal White for
Rays black-and-white cinema. With period
furniture and Raj-era letter boxes, the rooms
are as attractive as their rates.
At its centre lies a cheerful, sun-drenched
restaurant and ptisserie, perfect for a
leisurely breakfast of fruit pancakes or a

ipped parfait. The menu offers everything
from pizza and de-constructed, overloaded
nachos to California-style crab cakes
and Thai red curry-spiced risotto balls.
For Bengali cuisine, however, you have to
turn elsewhere (Kewpies remains an old
favourite). The downer is that sundowners
are not served here, as the sale of alcohol
is prohibited within a 1km radius of schools
and there is one close by.
The service is enthusiastic: the hotel
will rent out cars for you to travel around,
but inform the staff in advance. Sights
such as the Victoria Memorial Hall, St
Pauls Cathedral and Park Street are within
easy reach. A little further down, theres
Jorasanko, with its Marble Palace, the
adjoining home of the Tagore family and the
narrow bylanes of Kumartuli, where potters
sculpt clay goddesses for the pujo season.
Care for a view of twinkling city lights from

over the Hooghly? TCC even has a 1949
Land Rover for an unforgettable (and gratis)
Kolkata-by-night drive.
THE CORNER COURTYARD
92B Sarat Bose Road, Kolkata (099039
99567; www.thecornercourtyard.com)
Doubles from 5,000 GOOD VALUE
GETTING THERE
Fly to Kolkata with Air India (www.airindia.
com) or IndiGo (https://book.goindigo.in)
from Mumbai or New Delhi.
WHEN TO GO
Avoid the hottest months (April and May)
and the monsoon (June to September).
Clockwise, from top left:
The red-brick interiors of The
Corner Courtyards Crimson room;
the Indigo room; the restaurant
and ptisserie
TRAVELLER PROMOTION
JW MARRIOTT NEW
DELHI AEROCITY
WINS HICSA
Left: Mr. Sushil Gupta, Chairman &

Managing Director Asian Hotels
West Ltd. Right: Mr. Sandeep
Gupta, Executive Director - Asian
Hotels West Ltd
Balan Paravantavida,
General Manager JW
Marriott New Delhi Aerocity
New Delhis most stylish hotel was awarded this unique honour in 2014
veryone knows that New Delhis JW

Marriott Aerocity is one of the most
stylish and popular hotels in the capital.
But it has now got a stamp of approval from the
leading organization of the hotel industry, Hotel
Investment Conference South Asia (HICSA).
The hotel won the award for Best Luxury Hotel
Opening in the Hotels of the Year 2014 awards
at the recently held 10th edition, all within six
months of being open.
JW Marriott Hotel New Delhi Aerocity is
a 523-room property with state-of-the art
amenities and a host of international, ne-dining
restaurants, plush banquet space, the holistic
Quan spa and a pool bar.
Attended by the whos who of the hospitality
industry, HICSA 2014 brought together diverse
hoteliers, investors, developers, architects
and designers from across the globe, giving
them an excellent opportunity to network with
each other. The annual conference facilitated
meetings with inuential decision makers and
felicitated the work of this industry. Stalwarts
from across the hospitality industry were
present at the event deliberating on challenges,
trends, and new opportunities shaping the
course of the sector.
Commenting on this honour, Sushil Gupta,
Chairman & Managing Director Asian Hotels
West Ltd, said, It is a proud moment for the
team at JW Marriott Aerocity to be felicitated
and recognised on this prestigious platform.

We are pleased that our property has found
relevance and acceptance in the Indian market.
Also excited with this win, Balan
Paravantavida, General Manager, JW Marriott
New Delhi Aerocity said, It is extremely
exciting to win accolades at the prestigious
HICSA awards in our opening year. It is a
testament to our service standards that are
maintained by my excellent team.
The JW Marriott Hotel New Delhi Aerocity
offers discerning international and domestic
travellers the famed JW sophistication
for the rst time in New Delhi. Styled with
elegant sophistication, the JW Marriott
Hotel New Delhi Aerocitys 523 luxurious
rooms and suites offer superlative comfort
and personalised service within a unique
environment designed to reect its location.
Situated in close proximity to the airport
and Gurgaon, the citys fastest growing
commercial hub, JW Marriott Hotel New Delhi
Aerocity offers one of the citys grandest
meeting and conference facilities with nearly
25,000sq ft of indoor banquet space, which
includes a 12,000sq ft pillar-less ballroom with
built-in, state-of-the-art technology.
The hotel presents the ultimate sensory
experience with exceptional dining options
including K3 (all-day dining showcasing
Tuscan, Cantonese and North Indian cuisine);
the Oval Bar, which offers premium spirits

paired with gourmet appetizers from around
the world; and Akira Back, the signature
Japanese restaurant with a Korean twist.
Delhi Baking Company (DBC), the hotel
patisserie, speacializes in a wide range of
grab-and-go gourmet products, including
baked goods, great coffee and culinary
lifestyle products, as well as a simple eat-in
menu, making it the perfect destination to
meet for business or leisure. The JW Lounge
is the heart of the hotel designed like an
exclusive living room with an exciting array of
food and beverage offerings.
The JW Marriott Hotel New Delhi Aerocity
is also home to the distinctive Quan Spa,
JW Fitness centre and an outdoor heated
swimming pool. With all this and more
on offer, its no wonder that the hotel was
awarded such a prestigious honour at HICSA
2014. Book yourself in to enjoy an experience
like no other.
For more information or reservations, visit
www.jwdelhi.com.
INDIA IS GOING ON
SAFARI
COMPLIMENTARY SUPPLEMENT WITH THE

COND NAST TRAVELLER AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 2014 ISSUE
Presenting the rst ever Wildlife and Safari Special, which will connect
premier safari vacation suppliers, destinations and products with Indian
readers, providing them with all they need to know to plan and book their
next wildlife excursion. This CNT-curated special will be a denitive and
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Where to stay
ALOFT
BENGALURU
CESSNA
BUSINESS
PARK
SNEAK PEEK
This hotel is
a perfectly pitched ode to geek
chic, says Kanchan Wadhwa.
Photographs by Jyothy Karat
magine youre a tech baron in the making

and youre scouting for your next coding
genius in Bengaluru. You check into the
shiny, new 191-room Aloft hotel at the Cessna
Business Park, an IT hub thats home to
companies such as Cisco, and feel right at
home. Everything about it spells geek, from
the high-speed wi- in public areas to the
electronic ticker in the lobby that scrolls fun
bits of triviadid you know that cluck and
grunt is slang for eggs and bacon?
As you sip an espresso martini at the
w xyzSM bar, you notice a retired Cessna
aircraft suspended from the lobbys ceiling.
Youre not seeing things. Aloft is a joint
venture between the Prestige Groupa
Bengaluru-based real estate company thats
built more than 51 million sq ft of real estate
and Starwood Hotels & Resorts, and the
aircraft is part of the hotels quirky aesthetic.
Looking around, you discover that there

are some great spots to work fromtheres
a rocking chair next to the blue pool table
at Re:mixSM lounge that doubles up as a
post-sunset hangout; and In-Touch, a space
equipped with Macs, which stays open 24x7.
You work up a sweat at the Re:chargeSM
gym and later, pitch your killer app idea to
a venture capitalist you met there. Lead him
to one of the hotels eight meeting places, all
called Tactic. If he doesnt buy your hard sell,
ply him with appetizers, such as Mongolian
tostadas and Amritsari tawa machli, at the
open-air dining area, Backyard. Or treat him to
dinner at Nook, where Indian cuisine is served
in Mumbai dabbawala-style tiffin boxes.
After a hard days work, you head back to
your airy room, with its plush platform bed,
42in LCD TV and plug-and-play docking station
that charges all your electronic devices. The
bed is welcoming, but sleep evades you.

You go to the w xyzSM bar at Re:mixSM lounge,
which hosts gigs by emerging bands on
Wednesdays and Fridays. Who knows, under
the inuence of some seriously good music
and potent cocktails, that venture capitalist
may just come around.
ALOFT BENGALURU
CESSNA BUSINESS PARK
Sarjapur-Marathahalli Outer Ring Road
(www.alofthotels.com) Doubles from
7,130 GOOD VALUE
GETTING THERE
Fly to Bengaluru with IndiGo (https://book.
goindigo.in) or SpiceJet (www.spicejet.com)
from all major Indian cities.
Clockwise, from top left: The wi--enabled
lobby; chef Dola Singh at work in the
kitchen; the Savvy Suite; seating in
the lobby; the elevator landing areas
Where to stay
Bed-hopping with
Viswanathan
Anand
HOTEL CONFIDENTIAL
LION SANDS TINGA LODGE

KRUGER NATIONAL PARK,
SOUTH AFRICA
The most exquisite afternoon tea with
quiche, pies and streusel cake is served
here. You can watch the Big Five in style
and, of course, enjoy excellent South
African wines. (www.lionsands.com)
Doubles from ZAR7,300 ( 41,800)
HALEKULANI
HONOLULU, HAWAII
This lovely, discreet hotel has a great
pool overlooking Waikiki beach. It provides
excellent butler service and is very
child-friendly, even providing minibathrobes for babies. (www.halekulani.
com) Doubles from US$520 ( 32,160)
The grandmaster reveals his

favourite places to stay, from
Turkey to the Cte dAzur.
By Namrata Bhawnani
HOTEL IBRAHIM PASHA

ISTANBUL, TURKEY
A lovely, quaint, family-run hotel
next to the Hagia Sophia, with
a view of the Sea of Marmara.
The concierge is very helpful here
and the hotel prepares amazing
sandwiches. (www.ibrahimpasha.
com) Doubles from 135 ( 11,510)
At Lion Sands
Tinga Lodge, you
can watch the Big
Five in style and,
of course, enjoy
excellent South
African wines
VISTA PALACE HTEL

CTE DAZUR CAPMARTIN, FRANCE
Located on a clifftop in the French
Riviera, the views of the Mediterranean
Sea are spectacular. And, of course,
you nd Provenal cooking at its
best here. (www.vistapalace.com)
Doubles from 151 ( 12,859)
If kitsch is your thing, this

hotel on Kurfrstendamm,
the main shopping
boulevard in west Berlin, is
perfect for you. Youll nd quirky
rooms, the friendliest staff
and delicious breakfast here.
(www.kudamm101.com) Doubles
from 58 ( 4,940) GOOD VALUE
PET PEEVE Hotels that dont have a good espresso machine or tasty chocolates with the turndown service.
Also, an excellent gym or lots of surrounding greenery for walks are a must.
PHOTOGRAPH: DUSKO DESPOTOVIC/CORBIS
KU DAMM 101
BERLIN, GERMANY
Where to stay
Johannesburg
ROOM SERVICE
Theres a newfound condence in this South African

city, with an edgy art scene and plush, toprate haunts. By Sarah Khan
Business
Classic
Good value
THE SAXON HOTEL,

VILLAS AND SPA
54 ON BATH
THE MUNRO
BOUTIQUE HOTEL
12 DECADES
ART HOTEL
In the ritzy northern
suburb of Sandhurst,
home to business magnates
and international consulates
Look
African chic set against

an earthy palette
from the cushions to the
tribal-inspired gurines
Crowd
Mandela stayed
here; leaders such
as the Clintons
continue to follow
Rooms
Eating &
drinking
Best thing
Worst thing
Price
Contact
MUST
DO
In the tree-lined suburb of

Rosebank; it is next door
and connected to
Rosebank Mall
An imposing 10-storey
brick faade, with interiors
in black, white, grey and mint,
and works by local artists
Savvy business
travellers and
celebrities looking
to keep a low prole
Cocooned in the oldmoney In the Maboneng Precinct,

a once-gritty enclave now
suburb of Houghton,
transformed into a hip arts
amid stately 1930s Arts
and cultural district
and Crafts houses
The opulent French
Chateau of an eccentric
aunt: the dining-room ceiling
features an elaborate mural
Like a modernart
museum, with a simple
check-in desk at the end
of an art-lled corridor
A sophisticated set after

a cosseting oasis in the city.
Apple co-founder Steve
Wozniak has stayed here
Photographers, musicians
and painters; neon trainers
Each of the 12 Decades

Rooms is designed by a
different artist to reect 10
years in the citys history
and asymmetrical haircuts

are par for the course
All 53 airy rooms and

suites are done up in creams
and browns, each with
contemporary sculptures
75 rooms, including 12
executive suites and three
There are just ve

sumptuous suites. The
luxury suites with

private terraces
Presidential Suite has

a sun terrace and sauna
The sixcourse Ruinart

Experience at ve
hundred restaurant pairs
Champagne with foie gras
The super-glamorous
Onrequest
dining is the
Rooms have
kitchenettes;
order of the day
the area is home to

innovative eateries
The smart technology:

inroom laptops and
hi-speed Internet
High tea, served in the

gardens or the lobby, which
has a white grand piano
The view from the

innity pool over the
citys lush landscape
Attention to detail: from

the lamps to the coat hooks,
everythings tasteful
The mirrors in the rooms

are badly positioned
and not very attering
The mall is being extended,

so for now, most rooms
The front desk is not
offer construction views
There are no lotions,

hairdryers, irons or
phones in the suites
Doubles from
Doubles from
ZAR3,250 ( 18,220)
Doubles from
ZAR4,950 ( 27,750)
ZAR3,300 ( 18,500)
Doubles from
ZAR870 ( 4,880)
36 Saxon Road, Sandhurst

(+27 11 292 6000; www.
thesaxon.com)
54 Bath Avenue, Rosebank

(+27 11 344 8500; www.
tsogosunhotels.com)
63 St Patrick Road, Houghton

Estate (+27 11 487 1420;
www.themunrohotel.com)
286 Fox Street (0861

226 787; www.urban
hiphotels.com)
Veuve Clicquot
Champagne Bar is
wonderfully over-the-top
manned after 10pm
An innercity tour with Past Experiences will give you an enlightening insight into another side
of this illreputed metropolisits buildings, art and more. (http://pastexperiences.co.za)
PHOTOGRAPHS: ALAMY; SHUTTERSTOCK
Location
Splurge
TRAVELLER PROMOTION
BEST FOR BUSINESS
The Bengaluru Marriott Hotel Whiteeld is all set to become the IT citys coolest MICE destination
he next time youre travelling to this

southern city on business, make sure you
book yourself into the Bengaluru Marriott
Hotel Whiteeld. Set in Indias Silicon Valley,
this premier luxury hotel blends contemporary
style and warmth to provide premium
accommodation for business travellers.
An epitome of sophistication and luxury,
the Bengaluru Marriott Hotel Whiteeld
has 324 rooms, including 17 suites that are
ergonomically planned and thoughtfully
designed with state-of-the-art amenities.
The well-appointed rooms promise to make
guests completely at home, while giving
them everything required to make their trip
successful. The executive lounge on the
15th oor offers an awe-inspiring view of
Whiteeld and is available to guests staying on
the executive oor to conduct business and
meetings or to simply relax.
Still not convinced why you should host
your business meetings here? The Benagluru
Marriott Hotel Whiteeld offers more than
10,000 sq ft of efficient meeting space,
carefully designed and equipped with the
latest audiovisual equipment, making it an
ideal destination for business conferences.
The Grand Ball Room has a spectacular ceiling
height of 7.8m, making it the ideal place for
fashion dos.
Be it business meetings
or social gatherings, events
at Bengaluru Marriott
are crafted around your
precise requirements. The
specialist event managers
can create a personalised
experience for their guests.
Besides this, the hotel
has seven meeting rooms
with more than 995sq
m of space, best in class
service for conventions and
social gatherings, wireless
internet-enabled meeting
rooms and a pillar-less
ballroom offering 625sq m of space. Theres
also a fully equipped Business Centre, an
Executive Floor and Lounge, and a helipad.
Leisure is not ignored here either, as the
hotel offers a number of amenities for those
looking to relax. The spa at Bengaluru Marriott
Hotel Whiteeld offers the best of therapies for
holistic rejuvenation and tranquil experiences.
Theres also a 24-hour, fully equipped tness
centre; three therapy suites, including a
couples therapy suite; an outdoor swimming
pool; and a steam, sauna and whirlpool.
With four restaurants serving a variety of
Indian and international food, theres always
something delicious on offer. Choose from the

all-day dining M Caf; the
M Bar lobby bar; the casual Italian Alto Vino;
and the deli and patisserie Whiteeld Baking
Company. Whether its meetings, conferences,
relaxation or dining, Bengaluru Marriott Hotel
Whiteeld truly has the best on offer.
For more information, visit
www.marriott.com.
PHOTOGRAPH: JULIAN CAPMEIL
Opposite: A sunset bonre at

Oyster Bay on Cambodias
Song Saa island
View
Why we travel+ The best Premium Economy + Children in Barcelona
HONEYMOON
PLANNER
2014
Whether you want to chase the Northern Lights or

laze on a Caribbean island, Jasreen Mayal Khanna
tells you all you need to know
View
MIAMI + a Caribbean island
ITALY: Classic vs cool

CLASSIC ITALY: With its olive groves and
sun-kissed farmland, Tuscany will make
your heart sing. Stay at Villa San Michele
(www.villasanmichele.com), a favourite with
honeymooners. Visit Chianti for wine-tasting,
Pienza for the cheese shops and Florence
to view Renaissance art. Take the train to
Naples and then hire a car to drive down the
enchanting Amal coast. Stop at Revello for
spectacular views of the Tyrrhenian Sea and
stay at the chic J.K. Place (www.jkcapri.com),
on Capri, a honeymooners delight.
THE COOL SOUTH: Theres more to Italy
than its historic cities and gorgeous coasts.
The Miami
skyline at night
Miami
Turks
Caicos
a Caribbean island
St Barts
The southern regions of Puglia and Sicily are

bustling with sexy new resorts, while chefs
are embracing local cuisine and developing
fantastic wineries. Live like a local in the
restored homes of the South: Donna
Carmela (www.donnacarmela.com) is
a 19th-century house inside Sicilys biggest
plant nursery, while Masseria Torre Maizza
(www.masseriatorremaizza.com), in Puglia,
is a farmhouse thats been converted into
a chic hotel.
SCANDINAVIA done 3 ways

NORTHERN LIGHTS: Time your holiday
for January or February to catch the elusive
aurora borealis or Northern Lights (get
inspired by Fatima Bhuttos experience
in Iceland on pg 144). Hotel Rang (www.
hotelranga.is) is a two-hour drive from
Keavk International Airport in southern
Iceland. (The staff even gives aurora wake-up
calls.) If youre looking for a more romantic
experience, spend a night snuggling in
the glass igloos of Kakslauttanen (www.
Cuba
kakslauttanen.), in Finland, while watching

the Lights overhead.
CRUISE: Nature lovers will cherish the
spectacular scenery on offer while cruising
through breathtaking Norwegian fjords.
Celebrity Cruises (www.celebritycruises.
co.uk) offers up-close views of soaring peaks,
crashing waterfalls and gigantic glaciers
while passing through Bergen, Flm and
lesund. Experience Nordic culture at
these quaint towns, with their lovely
museums, caf-lined streets and timber
houses clinging to the hillsides.
NORDIC FOOD: Sweden is being touted
as Europes newest culinary star, with some
cutting-edge Nordic cuisine in Stockholm.
Start your day with eggs topped with Baltic
shrimp at the boho-chic Bageriet Urban
Deli (www.urbandeli.org). Stay at the Grand
Htel (www.grandhotel.se), where star chef
Mathias Dahlgren runs two restaurants that
are known for their use of Nordic ingredients:
the wild duck with fried peppers at Matsalen
is divine. Enjoy a meal at Lisa Elmqvist r
PHOTOGRAPHS: MARGARET DUROW/TRUNK ARCHIVE; GEORGE H.H. HUEY, ANGELO CAVALLI/CORBIS
Americas sexiest seaside city is a great

place to start your honeymoon. Party with
the A-listers at Boli, where international DJs
such as David Guetta and Avicii are known to
spin through the night. You can set up digs at
The Betsy (www.thebetsyhotel.com), a grand
vintage hotel on the strip. Culture vultures
should head to the vibrant Wynwood Art
District, with its plethora of galleries, design
stores and cafs. Miami is also a great entry
point to the Caribbean, with direct ights to
more than 20 islands and multiple cruise
ships starting their itineraries here.
TURKS & CAICOS: Known as a divers
paradise, this island has the worlds third
largest barrier reef, with sheer drop walls
bursting with an incredible variety of marine
life. Youll spot eagle rays, sharks and turtles
and, if youre lucky, even a humpback whale
cruising by soft corals, gigantic sponges and
schools of sh. Rub shoulders with stars
such as Julia Roberts and Penelope Cruz at
the Parrot Cay by COMO (www.comohotels.
com) or enjoy complete privacy at Amanyara
(www.amanresorts.com), a favourite of
Padma Lakshmi.
ST BARTS: Home to high-end boutiques and
ne-dining restaurants, this stylish island, with
its distinct French culture, is where jet-setters
come to relax. Hotel Le Toiny (www.letoiny.
com) is a collection of one-bedroom villas
and its French-Creole restaurant, Le Gaiac, is
famous for its Sunday Champagne brunch.
CUBA: For a truly unique island experience,
Cuba offers old-world romance in Havana,
where you can enjoy cigars and salsa in
the seductive dancing halls. Drive further
west, in a vintage pop-coloured Plymouth
hired from Classic Cars in Cuba (www.
classiccarsincuba.com), to the beaches of
Varadero and Cayo Coco, where you can sip
Mojitos and sunbathe to a golden crisp.
View
The One&Only Reethi

Rah hotel in the Maldives
View
The One Only Reethi Rah is

an idyllic honeymoon resort
with gorgeous over water
villas and a divine spa
(www.lisaelmqvist.se), a legendary seafood

restaurant that offers traditional Swedish
recipes such as salmon with mustard sauce.
ASIA: pick your resorts

CAMBODIA: Song Saa (www.songsaa.com;
doubles from 99,560), literally meaning
sweet hearts in Khmer, is one of Asias
most exclusive private island resorts, with
a rainforest spa, villas with individual garden
terraces and secluded coves.
THE MALDIVES: For a luxurious beach
break thats within accessible reach, head to
the One&Only Reethi Rah (http://reethirah.
oneandonlyresorts.com; doubles from
78,780) in the Maldives. It has over-water
villas, excellent cuisine and a divine spa.
Theres also a wedding registry where
people can gift the couple massages, meals
and cruises during their honeymoon.
THE PHILIPPINES: The Philippines is
gaining popularity as a vacation hotspot
and the sophisticated DEDON ISLAND
(www.dedonisland.com; doubles from
63,030) is one of its swanky new
properties. The tariff includes all meals
and beverages (with alcohol), spa sessions,
water sports and picnics.
INDONESIA: Tiny Nikoi Island (www.nikoi.
com; doubles from 17,330) is a private
resort, just 80km from Singapore, that offers
luxury at affordable rates. The 15 rustic-chic
beach houses and warm service make this
the place to forget your worldly worries.
THAILAND: For a stylish yet affordable
honeymoon, look no further than Thailand.
Akaryn (www.akaryn.com; doubles from
9,300) is a new boutique resort located on
the secluded Hanuman beach. Sip a cocktail
or two at the sexy swim-up Wet Bar before
heading to Ochos, the ne-dining restaurant,
which offers modern Asian tapas.
PHOTOGRAPH: ANDERS OVERGAARD/TRUNK ARCHIVE
TUNISIA: with a stopover

Relatively unknown until now, this beautiful
North African country is suddenly on every
globetrotters bucket list. The historic capital
city of Tunis is a mix of ancient and modern:
meander through a maze of alleyways to
discover mosques, mausoleums and souks,
and enjoy superb Tunisian cuisine at Dar
El Jeld (www.dareljeld.com)an 18thcentury palace converted into a restaurant.
Nearby, the coastal town of Hammamet
offers fantastic nightlife and summer
music festivals. History and archaeology
buffs should not miss the exquisite ruins of
the ancient city of Carthage; stay at Villa
Didon (www.villadidoncarthage.com). r
View
GETTING THERE: While there are no
direct ights to Tunisia from India, we
recommend you make the most of your
layover and spend a few days in one
of these destinations:
FLY EMIRATES VIA DUBAI: Anantara
Dubai The Palm Resort & Spa (www.dubaipalm.anantara.com) is an oasis of serenity
in this frenetic city. The property has 18
over-water villas and a brand new spa that
is perfect for a quick bliss-x before you
continue your journey. Try the Arabian
massage, in which palms and elbows
are used to stimulate pressure points
throughout the body and ease stress.
FLY AIR FRANCE VIA PARIS: The city
of love has many romantic experiences to
choose from. You can go hot-air ballooning
in the countryside or indulge in a chocolate
body scrub at the iconic Four Seasons Hotel
George V (www.fourseasons.com). At One
by the Five (www.onebytheve.com), an
apartment suite, the kitchen is stocked with
aphrodisiacs for you to create your own love
potion and the bedroom recreates a starry
sky with the bed suspended in the clouds.
Boats lined up at
a pier in Tunisia
FLY TURKISH AIRLINES VIA ISTANBUL:

This culturally diverse city straddles Asia
and Europe on either side of the Bosphorus
strait. A private yacht cruise on these azure
waters is a must for honeymooners, as is a
cocktail at the iconic rooftop bar 360istanbul
(www.360istanbul.com). To get away from
the chaos, head to Heybeliada, one of the
Princes Islands, a short ferry ride from
Istanbul. No cars are allowed here, so the
best way to explore the monasteries and
churches is by horse-drawn carriage. Stay
at the Karamanyan (www.istanbulislands.
com), an Ottoman mansion that has been
converted into four stylish apartments.
Tunisia with a stopover in

Dubai or Paris or Istanbul
JAPAN by season
SPRING ITINERARY: In Tokyo, you can
start your day with a sushi breakfast at
Tsukiji, the largest sh market in the world.
Then, spend some time wandering around
the shopping district of Ginza and admire
Shinjukus neon lights at night. Kyotos
Shinto shrines are the perfect backdrop
for Japans cherry blossom season, which
runs from mid-March to April, bathing it in
gorgeous pink. This is also a good time to
catch the Miyako Odori (www.miyako-odori.
jp), a dance performance by geisha, and
participate in a tea ceremony.
AUTUMN ITINERARY: The cooler months
of the year bring Japans famous hot springs
to life. Hakone Ginyu (www.ryokancollection.
com) is a ryokan or traditional inn that gives

visitors a glimpse into the ancient Japanese
way of life. Located in the lush mountains
of Hakone, it offers hot stone baths with
panoramic views of the valley. A stay at this
property can also be combined with a Mt
Fuji itinerary that includes trekking on the
volcanic crater, sailing on the picturesque
Lake Ashi and spending a day in the hot
spring town of Shuzenji Onsen. Book your
trip with La Ditta Limited (+81 3 6412 7221).
AFRICAN ADVENTURES
From South Africa to Zambia, the continent
has a wide range of activities on offer
for thrill-seekers. Go shark-cage diving in

Gansbaaiyoure lowered into the ocean in
a cage as great white sharks swim all around
you (www.sharkcagediving.net); stay at the
gorgeous Grootbos resort (www.grootbos.
com) nearby, which is nestled between
the mountains and the sea. The town of
Livingstone in Zambia is the new adventure
capital of Africa: you can go white-water
rafting, bungee jumping and zip lining across
the river. For a smoother ride, pick an air
safari, in which you glide over Kenya's Masai
Mara in a hot-air balloon. Here, spend the
night in Cottars 1920s Safari Camp (www.
cottars.com) for an old-world experience.
View
PHOTOGRAPHS: BORIS BREUER; PHILIP LEE HARVEY; FOUR CORNERS; GAVIN HELLIER/CORBIS; ALAMY
The Morcote
Peninsula on Lake
Lugano in Switzerland
SECRET SWITZERLAND
This classic honeymoon destination also has
some little-known spots for an experience
that is well off the beaten path.
1 The town of Vals has healing thermal baths
and the Hotel Therme Vals (www.thermevals.ch) has secret grottos and steam rooms.
2 For truly royal treatment, head to the
opulent Badrutts Palace hotel (www.
badruttspalace.com) in St Moritz,
which is frequented by European royalty
and celebrities.
3 When the Swiss go on vacation, they head
to the Italian-speaking region of Ticino for
its beautiful lakes (one of the loveliest is the
famed Lake Lugano), unspoilt valleys and

a charming Mediterranean feel.
4 Switzerland has its own vineyards, set
in the mountains above Rhone Valley. Join
the annual Wii-Grill-Fscht in September,
when crowds hike the trail to almost 3,500ft
while stopping at a dozen points to drink
some excellent wine and eat delicious
cheese, salami and sausages.
5 The gorgeous Giessbach Falls are one
of Switzerlands natural wonders, gushing
down 1,640ft, across valleys, to meet Lake
Brienze. Stay at the Grandhotel Giessbach
(www.giessbach.ch), located at the base,
which has spectacular views of the falls.
SOUTH PACIFIC:
journey to Bora Bora
Bora Bora is one of the most popular tropical
island destinations on any honeymooners
list. However, getting there from India is not
easy and takes more than 24 hours of ight
time. To ensure you dont burn out on the
way, break up the journey and make the
stopovers part of your honeymoon itinerary.
HONG KONG: This cosmopolitan Asian
hotspot is perfect for city-lovers who
appreciate stylish hotels and modern
cuisine. Stay at The Upper House (www.
upperhouse.com), a minimalist hotel
with spacious rooms and jaw-dropping views r
View
of the skyline from every angle (including your
bathtub). High tea at The Peninsula is another
highlight. For a more casual experience, try
traditional dim sum at City Hall, where youll
also see couples lining up to make their vows.
AUCKLAND: A short ferry ride from the
mainland lies Waiheke, an island traditionally
known for its vineyards, that is now being
touted as the new bohemian capital. Couples
can stroll past the new crop of galleries
featuring local artists and tour some of
the boutique wineries producing exquisite
chardonnays. The Boatshed (www.boatshed.
co.nz), a nautical-themed luxury lodge, is
an idyllic place to feast on local cuisine and
spend hours lazing by the ocean.
PAPEETE: The capital of French Polynesia is
famed for its bustling markets. Shopaholics
must visit the Robert WAN Pearl Museum
(www.robertwan.com), which exhibits the
regions exquisite black pearl jewellery.
BORA BORA: Once you nally reach your
dream destination, check into the Four
Seasons (www.fourseasons.com). From the
oating breakfast brought to your water
villa in a canoe to snorkelling in the Ruahatu
Lagoon Sanctuary, where you can spot more
than 100 species of marine life, to getting a
massage in the Kahaia couples suite as sh
it around under the glass oor beneath you,
the resort staff leave no stone unturned to
make sure your long journey was worthwhile.
Machu Picchu. Below left:

Patrons at Cordano, a
well-known restaurant in
Lima. Below right: A dish of raw
llets of pejerrey, a Peruvian
sh, at La Mar Cebichera
Peru active or lazy
RUSSIA: When Peter the Great built the

city of St Petersburg, he got engineers and
architects from all over Europe to recreate
the splendour of its major cities. So theres
much to see here: royal palaces, celestial
parks and exquisite ballet at the Mariinsky
Theatre. May-July is a magical time to visit
the sun doesnt set and the city erupts in the
revelry of the White Nights festival. Stay at
the lavish Lobanov-Rostovsky Palace, now
redone as a modern Four Seasons (www.
fourseasons.com) and on our Hot List 2014,
too. (Visit www.cntraveller.in to read our
feature on Russia.)
CROATIA & MONTENEGRO: Sail down
the Croatian coast, stopping by Trogir and
Split to explore UNESCO World Heritage
Sites. On the island of Hvar, stay at Villa Fio
(www.villa-o-hvar.com) before driving to
Dubrovnik, nestled between the Adriatic
Sea and the Dinaric Alps. Then continue into
Montenegro. The ancient city of Kotor has
some wonderful heritage structures and
natural beauty. (For a detailed itinerary, read
our feature on Croatia on www.cntraveller.in.)
PORTUGAL: With its hedonistic nightlife

and superb cuisine, Lisbon is great for
honeymooners. Dine at the vibrant Sea Me
(www.peixariamoderna.com), a restaurant
in Bairro Alto and then go to the Pink Street
to party at Penso Amor (www.pensaoamor.
pt), an old building converted into a funky
bar. Golfers can take a trip to Sintra, a quaint
village with lush gardens and fairy-tale palaces,
and spend the night at Penha Longa Resort
(www.penhalonga.com) built on a golf course.
And further south, Vila Joya (www.vilajoya.
com), a boutique property on the pristine
Algarve coast, is close to 36 golf courses.
PERU: active or lazy

ACTIVE: Explore sun temples and outdoor
markets in the vibrant city of Cusco, and enjoy
stunning views of the Andes from the Sacred
Valley on horseback. Stay at the Sol & Luna
lodge (www.hotelsolyluna.com) to break your

journey and acclimatise. Trek up to the ruins
of Machu Picchu and spend a night at the
Inkaterra (www.inkaterra.com) strategically
located away from the tourist crowds.
LAZY: If strenuous activitys not your
thing, explore Perus culinary scene, which
is catching the attention of major chefs
around the world. Lunch at the renowned
La Mar Cebichera (www.lamarcebicheria.
com), in Lima, and then proceed to Huaca
Pucllana (www.resthuacapucllana.com),
where seductively fresh ingredients are
used to create dishes youll want to
Instagram immediately. In the south, the
White City of Arequipa has ZigZag (www.
zigzagrestaurant.com) serving llama steaks,
Crepisimo creating the lightest French
crpes and Nina-Yakus experimental
Asian-Peruvian cuisine.
PHOTOGRAPHS: LAURIE CHAMBERLAIN/CORBIS; GENTL & HYERS
EUROPE: off the beaten track
View
THE GREAT DEBATE

Should you capture your moment or savour it on holiday?
We dont remember
our experiences
exactlyphotographing
them is the closest
thing to capturing
them accurately
I enjoy travelling and exploring

new destinationsand a camera
is probably as important
an item in my bag as a wallet
is when I go out shopping.
When on a holiday, I have
often, in my mind, struggled
with both the concepts of
going with the ow as well
as interrupting it by quickly
grabbing my camera and
shooting it. And somehow
taking a picture at these
times felt like I was rationalising
something emotional. I believe
that memories are meant to
fade. We dont usually remember
our experiences exactly as
they were. In our minds, these
moments are intermingled with
emotions, which sort of distort
reality into a different version of
the same story. And I believe that
photographing an experience is
the closest thing that comes
to capturing it accurately.
So, at the risk of losing the
purity of a moment, I would
still prefer to take a picture
and be able to revisit it all
those years later rather than
having no memories at all.
LISA HAYDON, model
Posing for a photo

doesnt capture the
moment; it merely tries to
save a portion of the feeling
you were experiencing
in that moment
The pressure of capturing a moment is

one that I always talk myself out of. Why
cut that moment short by jumping up to
grab the camera, in the process causing
it to pass? Our thought pattern is broken
and we are immediately transported
from experiencing to frantically clicking,
just so we can go home and share. Our
photos may never convey what we were
feeling. After all, posing for a photo
doesnt actually capture the moment;
it merely tries to save a portion of the
feeling you were experiencing in that
moment. And how will I be in that photo
if I have to take the photo? So we call
in someone else to take it. And, then,
what do we get? A cluster of smiling
heads trying to convey joy. If we have
to capture the moment, it is the natural
action shots that steal my fancy. Ive
purchased an array of camerasa
Canon G12, Fujilms latest Polaroid (in
two sizes) and an underwater Olympus
with the best intentions. Ive packed
them religiously on tripsonly to come
home with my camera empty. Ive
realised that the process of capturing
and saving is not crucial enough to me.
I do occasionally take photos but only
when the camera is not too far away and
I dont have to break the ow to capture it.
As told to Anushka Patodia
PHOTOGRAPHS: KCS/SPLASH NEWS/CORBIS; FOTOCORP; SHUTTERSTOCK
SHEETAL MALLAR,
former model; photographer
TRAVELLER PROMOTION
Experience serenity
at Vagator Beach
25
TRAVELLER PROMOTION
Pay a visit to the

coastal state this
rainy season for a
truly magical
experience
reasons
to go to Goa
this monsoon
veryone goes to Goa in the summer

and winter, but many do not know
that the coastal state is charming in
the monsoons as well. Sure, you cant get
into the water and the sun does not shine
as brightly, but in return youll be rewarded
with uncrowded beaches, attractive tariffs
and a chance to experience local Goan
festivals. Still not convinced? Read on
to nd out why you must visit the state
this monsoon.
1 SAFARIS
So what if you cant go to the beaches?
Monsoon is the perfect time to go on safari
and spot the regions varied wildlife. Parks
include the Dr Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary
on Chorao Island (on the outskirts of
Panaji); the Bondla Wildlife Sanctuary (not
far from the Goa border); the Bhagwan
Mahavir Wildlife Sanctuary and the Netavali
Wildlife Sanctuary in Sanguem taluka; the
Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary in Canacona
taluka; and the Madei Wildlife Sanctuary in
Sattari taluka. Here, you can spot animals
including elephants, bisons, tigers, leopards
and wild dogs.
Witness Wildlife
Wonderland at
Cotigao Sanctuary
TRAVELLER PROMOTION
Indulge in White
Water Rafting on
Mhadei River
2 WHITE-WATER RAFTING
From July to October this year, Goa Tourism
will take you on a journey down the Mhadei
River to enjoy the thrills of white-water
rafting down the largest number of rapids
along any rafting stretch in peninsular India.
The river rafting with start at Ustem village
and will end at Sonal village in Satteri.
The route taken for the white-water rafting
will cover a distance of 10km and require 90
minutes to complete.
3 WATERFALLS
Monsoon is also the perfect time to enjoy
the many streams and waterfalls in Goa.
Dudhsagar, Netravali, Hivrem and Kesarval
falls are at their best during the rains. The
imposing Dudhsagar, 60km from Panaji, is a
denite must-visit.
4 NO CROWDED BEACHES
The summer and winter are peak tourist
seasons when beaches are lled to the brim
with visitors which is why going there in the
monsoons is great. This way you have the
beaches to yourself to relax languorously in.
Just dont get into the water.
5 COUNTRYSIDE VISITS
The rainy season is the ideal time to take
Experience bliss
at Basilica of Bom
Jesus, Old Goa
trips to the lush Goan countryside, which

gets a dreamy, romantic feel with the mist
and soft raindrops. Simply walk around the
area or go for a drive to soothe your senses.
6 PLENTY OF ACCOMMODATION
How many times have you wanted to book a
trip to Goa but had to cancel because there
was no accommodation available? In the
monsoons, you neednt worry about this as
foreign tourists will steer clear. Plus youll
get some great rates for your weekend (or
weekday) visit. Whats more, youll have
more (and better choices) as heritage
homes and homestays, which you wouldnt
have otherwise booked since they arent
close to the beach, become great options

to stay in.
7 A PICTURE-PERFECT DRIVE
The road to Goa is beautiful any time of the
year, but the rains add a certain charm to
it, which makes your drive to the state that
much better. Youll see sparkling waterfalls,
quaint villages, lush greenery and friendly
locals all through your ride there.
8 TEMPLE TRIPS
When you go on a beach holiday, this part
of Goas heritage is always ignored. But
now that youre visiting in the monsoon,
you can make trips to nearby temples such
TRAVELLER PROMOTION
as Mangueshi and Shantadurga, both of

which are big tourist attractions.
9 GROUP VISITS
During the monsoons, hotel availability is
ample and tariffs are much lower. Besides,
the cost to y to Goa is much lower. All this
translates to more people in your group
willing to visit it. Be it conference, leisure
groups or corporate incentives, Goa is a
popular choice in the monsoon.
10 HIKING THROUGH FORESTS

There are many places to trek in and
around Goa. The picturesque Ambolim
Ghats is one option. Not only will you
come by waterfalls but also little streams.
Since you will be travelling a fair distance,
it would make sense to spend a couple
of days here. Cotigao is another option.
Here, you can trek through the forest, go
for an elephant ride, and catch a glimpse
of wildlife. The Goa Trekking Association
is also very active in organising rockclimbing expeditions to some of Goas
famous mountainsides, including the
Chorla Ghat.
11 BIRDWATCHING
Sirigao village may be impacted by
mining, but it has large colonies of black
cormorants and sh catcher birds in the
wetland. The Dr Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary
on Chorao Island also houses a number
of exotic bird species.
12 SPICE PLANTATION VISITS

You can visit Goas famed spice
plantations, Savoi Plantation in SavoiVerem and Pascoal Farm in Khandepar.
13 VILLAGE WALKS
Experience local village life by taking
walks to nearby settlements. The villages
in Salcette have some ne architecture
that you can admire.
14 PANAJIS LATIN QUARTER

How many times have you had the time
to explore Panaji when youre down for
a beach holiday? With the monsoon
season, you have the perfect excuse
to look at the gorgeous architecture in
Panajis Latin Quarter.
15 EXPERIENCE NATURE AT ITS

MOST GLORIOUS
Watch the waves crashing against the
shore as you sip your hot coffee and
read that book youve been meaning to read

forever. In the rainy season, you can truly
experience nature at its most glorious.
16 MONSOON DELICACIES/
MONSOON FOOD FESTIVAL
Foods popular with locals in the rainy season
include estuarine sh and edible ferns. The
delicacies are decidedly different from those
served in summer and winter. Whats more,
Goa also organises Asias best Monsoon
Food Festival by decentralising the events in
all the 12 talukas in such a way that the full
monsoon food basket of Goa is genuinely
represented for the local, domestic and
foreign connoisseurs of good food.
17 SONGS, POETRY, DANCE

AND MUSIC
Goans, like most Indians, have a song, dance
and poem for every season and occasion. Be
a part of theirs and celebrate with them to
truly experience the joy of the monsoons.
18 SPOTTING FIREFLIES ON
NIGHT SAFARIS
This is an experience like no other. During
July and August in the Western Ghats, rey
watching night safaris are conducted where
whole forests get illuminated with millions of
reies. It is indeed a breathtaking sight to
see them light up the jungle.
Pamper the Soul with

Ayurvedic Therapies
at Devaaya
19 ROMANTIC RIVER CRUISES

Beaches may be off-limits but that doesnt
mean you cant go on a serene, romantic
Mandovi River cruise during the rains.
Besides offering you a peek at the scenic
surroundings all the way upto the tip of
the Aguada hill, the cruises have on-board
cultural entertainment and drinks counters.
20 SPA THERAPIES GALORE

They say monsoon is the perfect time to get
ayurvedic massages and spa treatments
done as the body responds wonderfully
to them. So sit back, relax and let the
therapists pamper you in one of the many
spas located in several ve-star resorts.
TRAVELLER PROMOTION
21 STOCK UP ON FENI
The monsoon is a great time to have
your ll of Goas famous liquor, feni.
Whether youre attending one of the
many festivals or simply having a local
meal, a glass of feni will be your perfect
accompaniment. Take your pick from the
cashew and coconut varieties.
22 GOAN FOLK FESTIVALS

This is something you absolutely cant
afford to miss! Some of the most
popular folk festivals like Sao Joao (24
June), Bonderam (August) and Ganesh
Chaturthi (September) take place
during the monsoon season. Coastal
villages also celebrate the day of Saints
Peter and Paul (29 June) by oating
down the river on rafts, followed by lively
celebrations. Numerous festive lights
light up the countryside during
this period.
The feast of Sao Joao is celebrated in
June by taking a plunge into overowing
traditional wells, and a canoe oats a
parade in the village of Siolim.
The shing community celebrates the
feast of St Peter in July with great pomp
and splendour, erecting oating stages
midstream atop Goas numerous rivers and
performing cultural programmes on board.
The traditional Bonderam festival is
celebrated on the Island of Diwar in the
month of August and is referred to as the
mini carnival. Live music, street oats
and a shower of colours are a permanent
feature of this festival.
Ganesh Chaturthi is the grand festival

where reworks displays, colourful
decorations and the singing of fugddis
and bhajans form an important part of the
devotion to the elephant-headed God of
Wisdom, Prosperity and Good Fortune.
23 HERITAGE CHARMS
From the unique Palace of the Adil
Shah of Bijapur in Panjim (the old State
Secretariat building) to the enchanting
Menezes Braganza Mansion in Chandor,
Goa is a heritage lovers treasure trove.
Ancient rock caves like the ones at the
Aravalim Waterfalls, near Saquelim, make
very fascinating stops for sightseeing.
Famous churches include the Sacred
Bom Jesus Basilica (which enshrines the
uncorrupt remains of St Francis Xavier, the
patron saint of Goa), the Se Cathedral, and
the St Augustine tower.
24 GOAN FORTS
Goa has a number of forts, including
Corjuem, Aguada, Chapora, each of which
is a great way to spend an afternoon
exploring. In the summers, the heat means
that you cant spend too much time
outdoors, but in the monsoon youll have
no such problems.
25 AN ECO-SPIRITUAL
EXPERIENCE
Goa provides you with the ideal ecospiritual experience. A break here in the
monsoons is self-purifying, mind charging
and mentally rejuvenating.
Revel in the Colours of

Sao Joao Festival on
June 24 2014
Feel blessed at the

Mangueshi Temple
Were sure youre convinced now of why

you should go to Goa on your next break
this monsoon.
For more information
Mail to: pro@goa-tourism.com,
md@goatourism.com
TRAVELLER PROMOTION
Bird Watching at
Dr. Salim Alis
Wildlife sanctuary
Enjoy Fun activities

at Mayem lake
View
KITCHEN
conf idential
The insiders guide to scoring those impossible-to-get restaurant reservations.
By Naomi Chrisoulakis. Illustrations by Chris Long
rom Michelin-starred establishments

to hole-in-the-wall icons, there are
some restaurants in the world that are
renowned for their reservation policiesor
lack thereof. Unlike here at home, where
dining at an A-list eatery is still merely
a matter of remembering to call the week
before, the chances of scoring a table at
places such as Spains El Celler de Can Roca,
Londons Dinner by Heston Blumenthal or
New Yorks Per Se are slim to none unless
you have months to plan ahead.
So, if youre unexpectedly in the same
city as the worlds best dishes, how can you
ensure you get the access youve come to
expect? Theres always a way to get a table,
says Raphael Pallais, chef concierge at The
Plaza hotel in New York. All is fair in love,
warand making restaurant reservations.
For hotel concierges such as Pallais, who

make reservations for guests every day,
the key to success is personal connections.
Our rst line of attack is to develop longstanding relationships with matre ds, chefs,
reservations staff and managers, he says.
Theres always a way to

get a table. All is fair in
love, warand making
restaurant reservations
This doesnt happen overnight or even in six
months. Its a long-term strategy of concerted
cultivation of relationships with people who
can get you that impossible table.
Lorena Ringoot, The Surrey NYCs chef
concierge, agrees. Ive been a concierge
for 27 years, and Ive known restaurateurs

from the time they were waiters. It means
that I can text or Facebook them, and theyll
sometimes put out an extra table for me. So
unless youve got David Chang among your
Facebook friends, your best bet is to strike
the right chord with your concierge.
Not staying at a hotel? Credit card and
luxury concierge services can offer a way
in. You may call a restaurant and they
will say its fully booked, but when we
ring theyll nd us something, says Steve
Edo, CEO of Montreal-based premium
travel and concierge company, Pure
Entertainment. The concierge can
negotiate what you cant. Just two days
ago, we got a call from someone in Russia
who wanted to go to Dinner by Heston
Blumenthal. He called on Tuesday evening r
View
and wanted to go on Thursday evening.
We made it happen.
But you dont always need a third party
to get you a place at the table. Sometimes
its just a matter of working the system.
When my wife wanted to book me into
Yves Camdebordes very-hard-to-get-into
Le Comptoir du Relais in Paris for my birthday,
she sneakily booked accommodation at
Madame Camdebordes charming Htel
Relais Saint Germain, which houses the
bistro and which offers a table to all its
guests, says Terry Durack, The Sydney
Morning Heralds restaurant critic. At
L'atelier de Jol Robuchon in Paris, if you
walked in the front door of the restaurant,
you joined the non-bookings queue. But if
you entered the hotel [Htel Pont Royal],
and then went into the restaurant from the
lobby, staff would assume you were a hotel
guest and prioritise you. The lesson: if the
restaurant is within a hotel, use the hotel
to get you a seat in the restaurant.
And theres no rule saying you cant try
your luck at the last minute. Even at tiny,
heavily booked Osteria Francescana in
Modena, Italy, which scored third place last
year in the Worlds 50 Best Restaurants list,
sometimes tables suddenly free up. I would
never exclude calling at the last minute.
All waiting lists are not

created equal. There are
secret waiting lists as
well as hierarchies
on those lists
Cancellations happen and so do lastminute bookings, says co-owner Lara
Gilmore. Another suggestion is to put
yourself on our waiting list. Our cancellation
policy at the restaurant asks guests to
conrm the table by phone, 48 hours in
advance. If we do not hear from our reserved
tables either to conrm or cancel within
24 hours, we begin calling our waiting list
to ll in the cancellations.
All waiting lists are not created equal,
however. There are secret waiting lists as
well as hierarchies on those lists, reveals
Pallais. People who have a relationship
with the restaurant go straight to the top.
Spend a lotUS$8,000 to US$10,000
( 4.88 lakh to 6 lakh) and pick the best
grapeand youll go to the top next time
you try and book a table. The restaurant
keeps a list of big spenders, and the
matre d will offer a complimentary
drink at the end of the dinner, along with

his personal card.
Even if you havent dropped that kind of
cash on a previous visit, charm can take
you places a platinum credit card cant. It
is possible to charm your way to what you
need, says Pallais. We send owers to
reservations staff, we invite them for bubbles
and even to our personal parties. Bribery, on
the other hand, wont get you far. It doesnt
work and its in bad tasteso is a Dont you
know who I am? attitude, says Amanda
Tomasello, restaurant specialist for luxury
concierge service, Quintessentially Lifestyle.
You get more with honey than you do with
vinegar: its all about being polite, following
up and being patient. There is a good chance
therell be a cancellation, and if youre the
nice person who they spoke to and not the one
being entitled and obnoxious, youll get it.
DINING
BY NUMBERS
12 MILLION
2,600
Number of hits the

website of Spain's
El Celler de Can
Roca got the day
after it was named
the Worlds Best
Restaurant.
(www.cellercan
roca.com)
Calls one blogger

made to get
a table at Thomas
Kellers The
French Laundry in
California. (www.
frenchlaundry.com)
1 MILLION+
People who
request a table
at Copenhagen's
noma each year.
(http://noma.dk)
25
Courses on
the set menu
at Restaurant
Vendme in
Germany.
(www.schloss
bensberg.com)
View
If you were organised enough to put
your name on the waiting list before you left
home, take your cue from the pros and follow
upat the right time. Generally, in New York,
restaurants reconrm their reservations at
4pm and let the table go by 5pmso Ill call
them at 4.30pm to check, says The Surreys
Ringoot. Find out your chosen restaurants
cancellation policy, and be persistentbut
not as persistent as one would-be diner at
Osteria Francescana, who called six times
and sent 10 emails requesting a table for
a Friday-night seating. As there wasnt a

table available, he had his hotel call three
times as well, says Gilmore. As if that
wasnt enough, his Italian colleague called
half an hour later begging us to nd a table.
The best we could do was to put him on
the waiting list. These situations always
make you feel uncomfortable because,
of course, wed love to be able to seat
everyone who calls. And an uncomfortable
reservations desk isnt going to be an
accommodating one. Do, however, keep
an eye on Twitter; both Copenhagens

noma and Melbournes attica have taken
to social media in the past to ll lastminute cancellations.
If all else fails, just show up. Most
restaurants will seat walk-ins at the bar,
says Durack. Luckily, I adore dining at the
bar or counter, so Ive eaten in some of the
worlds best restaurants that way. Tomasello
adds, The easiest way to become a VIP,
honestly, is to just go and have a drink or
meal at the bar, and be nice.
TOUGH
tables
PHOTOGRAPHS: PAOLO TERZI; FRANCESCO TONELLI;

COURTESY OF THE MANDARIN ORIENTAL TEXT: JENNY KING
With a slew of accolades, rave reviews and Michelin stars, these are the
in-demand restaurants every serious diner wants a seat at
OSTERIA
FRANCESCANA,
MODENA, ITALY
ELEVEN MADISON
PARK, NEW
YORK CITY
ATTICA,
MELBOURNE
Climbing to third on
the Worlds 50 Best
Restaurants list last year,
this three-Michelin-starred,
12-table favourite is
renowned for its artistic
yet eccentric menu.
Waiting list
A member of the esteemed

Seven Star Club (three
Michelin stars, plus four
The New York Times
stars), this Madison
Avenue eatery blends
modern French cuisine
with a Manhattan twist.
About three months
Waiting list
Head chef
Waiting list
Massimo Bottura
You can only reserve

28 days in advance.
Overlooking Hyde Park,

Blumenthals latest
venture earned its second
Michelin star last year
(a sixth for Heston), and
specialises in reviving
historical British dishes
from as far back as the
14th century.
At least three months
Waiting list
Tasting menu
Head chef
Head chef
About three months
The Classics menu,

featuring ve ages of
Parmigiano Reggiano in
different textures and
temperatures, and foie
gras crunch with traditional
balsamic vinegar. (www.
osteriafrancescana.it)
Daniel Humm
Ben Shewry
Head chef
Tasting menu
Tasting menu
Ashley Palmer-Watts
14-16 courses, including the

signature honey-lavender
roasted duck or beef that
has been dry-aged for 140
days. (http://eleven
madisonpark.com)
Eight courses, including

potato cooked in the earth
in which it was grown, and
Flinders Island wallaby,
with matching grape.
(www.attica.com.au)
Signature dish
Focusing on local and

seasonal ingredients,
the New Zealand-born
chef at Australasia's
number one restaurant
often rises before dawn to
forage on the shore or in
atticas own garden for raw
materials for his natural
Antipodean recipes.
DINNER BY
HESTON
BLUMENTHAL,
LONDON
Meat Fruit (c.1500):

Mandarin, chicken liver
& foie gras parfait with
grilled bread. (www.
dinnerbyheston.com)
View
PREMIUM ECONOMY
SMART TRAVELLER
Priyanka Shewakramani compares what ve airlines have

to offer, so you can make an informed choice. Illustrations by Soumik Lahiri
Space between two

seats in inches
38
38
38
38
38
Seat recline
in inches
8.5
Seat width
in inches
19
18.5
21
TV screen
in inches
10.4
10.6
10.6
Food and drink
Meals, served on
specially designed
tableware, include
ne chocolates
Three-course
meal on par with
Business Class
Meals, served on
chinaware, with a choice
of three entres and
extras, such as a glass of
sparkling wine before
take-off and a
brandy after dinner
Meals include
a welcome drink
of Champagne
Meals, served on
porcelain, include
a welcome drink
Priority boarding
Yes
No
Yes
Yes
No
Baggage
allowance
Two check-in bags of

23kg each and two
cabin bags
Two check-in bags

of 23kg each
Three checkin bags of

23kg each
Lounge access
Yes, for a fee or miles
No
No
Electronics
Power outlets and USB

ports. Noise-reducing
Arkamys headphones
Two USB ports. EU,

UK, US and/or
EmPower outlet;
varies with aircraft
type. Noise-cancelling
headphones
AC or
EmPower
sockets for
laptops; USB ports
for Apple devices.
Regular headphones
Multi-port
connectors
for iPhones/
iPads. Noise-cancelling
headphones
European two-pin
and US two- and
three-pin plug
points. Regular
headphones
Amenity kit
Includes Clarins
skincare products, a
toothbrush, toothpaste,
shoe bag and shoehorn
Includes a toothbrush,
toothpaste and socks
toothpaste, earplugs,
socks, a pen and
eyeshades
Eco-friendly kits,
designed by G.O.D,
include a toothbrush,
toothpaste, earplugs
and eyeshades
toothpaste, earplugs
and eyeshades
Special bedding
Pure-wool blanket
and feather pillow
Comfy cushion
and blanket
Pillows larger than the

ones in Economy
Pillows larger than the

ones in Economy
Undecided at the time

of going to press
Bonus miles
(over Economy)
25 percent
25 percent
Up to 50 percent
10 percent
25 percent on
Star Alliance
19.5
19
10.6
25kg (except the

US, New Zealand
and Qatar)
No
12
Two check-in bags

of 23kg each
Yes, for 25 ( 2,100)
DEAL ALERT Lufthansas Premium Economy service launches in November. Check now for good prices. (www.lufthansa.com)
View
AT HOME WITH
THE MASTERS
DISPATCH The Augusta tournament is more than just a major golf championship. Its a pilgrimage,
says Suhel Seth, who visited exclusively for Cond Nast Traveller as a guest of Rolex
ugusta teaches you

many lessons, all of
them steeped in history.
These lessons are not about golf
alone, but much deeper. They
are about human character and
valuesabove all, about decency.
When life around us is so hurried
and, at times, shallow, there are
tournaments like the Augusta
Masters, in Georgia, US, which
help one reflect on the life one
is living. I have been an avid golf
Italian golfer Francesco

Molinari in action
fan, but not a fanatic. I have been

a believer but not a preacher
about the religion of golf. But
Augusta is not for the believers.
It is like making an annual
pilgrimage to where the Masters
are held and where, even today,
some of the greats are spoken of
in reverential whispers.
Having been to the United
States a zillion times, I wouldnt
ever dream of going to Augusta
if there wasnt the draw of
the Masters. What is equally

interesting is that the residents
of Augusta think so, too. Forget
your usual list of hotels; you stay
at homes when you are down for
Masters Week. Luxurious homes
that are let out for the week by
their owners. And it was in one
of these homes that I ended
up, a place called the Holsten
Residence. Like its neighbours,
the house is not just beautifully
appointed, but imbued with the
PHOTOGRAPHS: PHIL SHEPHARD-LEWIS/ROLEX; TOM BREAZEALE/CORBIS; GETTY
View
traditional charm of Augusta.
The Augusta National Golf
Club is about a five-minute
drive away. But then it helped
being a guest of Rolex, who, as
partners of this tournament,
have privileged access like you
cant imagine. Your car drives
into the golf club, when almost
everyone else is waiting in
serpentine queues to get in. The
hospitality marquee of Rolex
is called Tea Olive. Everything
about it is timeless, from the
subtle branding in the room
and the plushness of the leather
sofas to the fact that, on one
afternoon, I saw four sporting
legendsgolf greats Jack
Nicklaus, Arnold Palmer and
Gary Player and tennis icon
Rod Laver.
There is a ritual to every
pilgrimage. So it is with Augusta.
One wakes up early to get to
the course by about 8amthe
first tee-offs of the day are
typically at about 7.45am. You
then traverse the course with
any player you are keen to see:
the first day, I was tracking
Bubba Watson and Adam Scott,
but the leader of that day, when
the final tallies were all added
up, was Bill Haas. So, while the
first day was spent getting to
know the lay of the course and
meeting interesting people, it
was also about figuring the holes
out: which ones were extremely
challenging and which ones
were spectacular. The most
photographed hole at Augusta is
Hole #12, but the most difficult
is Hole #15, which is also called
Firethorn. I did a lot of reading
up and at the end of the first day,
my immersion at Augusta was
complete. I was now ready to
take on the Augusta pilgrims.
But nothing I had ever read
could have prepared me for a
meeting with Richard Van Frank.
I noticed Richard because of his
hat, which was decorated with
Masters tickets from all the way
back to 1964 (when I was just
a year old). Richard has been at
every Masters since 1964. Back
Conversation at Augusta is always around golf. Its as

if life is only worth a good tee and an even better putt
Above, left to
right: Tennis
legend Rod Laver
with Suhel Seth;
the course at the
Augusta National
Golf Club. Below:
Golfer Adam
Scott tees off
then, a ticket cost US$2 ( 120)

and now the official ticket price
is US$250 ( 15,280), though it
sells for about US$8,500 ( 5.19
lakh). The passion with which
Richard spoke seemed to suggest
that there are many more who
live each year only to be able
to spend this one week at the
Masters. Such is their dedication
and so deep is their faith.
The next three days were
similar in terms of routine.
Every evening, cocktails and
dinners are hosted by various
corporations. I obviously went
to the ones hosted by Rolex, and
then wound up at the house that
Pawan Munjal had rented, where
I had some amazing Indian food.
Trite as it may sound, when one is
away from India for more than
a month, one craves the spices
and home-cooked food.
Thankfully, all conversation
at Augusta is always around
golf. You are transported to a

world of greens and the green
jacket. Its almost as if an entire
life is only worth a good tee
and an even better putt. But
to suggest that the charm of
Augusta National is limited to
its spectacular course would
be a trifle unfair. Which is why
the tension was so palpable
when Bubba made his way to
the 18th hole to earn himself
his second jackethe didnt
know that his wife and son were
waiting for him there. His gaze
was transfixed on his impending
victory and there was complete
silence. He teed. Into history.
Yet again. Bubba was the new
Master of the Masters. Human
emotion merged with human
endeavour on grass that was
magical, giving us spectators
memories that we shall forever
own with delight.
Augusta is where the most
committed golf lovers in the
world assemble, for one week, to
celebrate the marriage of history
with contemporary prowess.
Where every pine tree tells a tale
of heroism and every blade of
grass yearns for someone better
than the last player who walked
it. This, more than anything
else, is the defining quality
of Augusta. Which is why the
home of the Masters is always
so masterful, in both its embrace
and its welcome.
View
Children in
BARCELONA
With urban beaches, mountains and surreal, largerthan-life art, this is a place where kids can let their
imaginations run riot. By Rhonda Carrier
Cultural f ix
Familiarity from a thousand postcards wont
stop you from gasping at the wonder that
is the Baslica de la Sagrada Famlia (www.
sagradafamilia.cat). Looking for all the
world like a medieval spaceship that has
crash-landed in the heart of the city, genius
Catalan architect Antoni Gauds unnished
masterpiece is a must-see for over-ves,
who can climb its scary, spindly towers (and
get their own audio guide). Just as much fun
is Gauds UNESCO-listed, wavy-fronted La
Pedrera (www.lapedrera.com), its fantastical
rooftop dotted with crazy chimneys that kids
love to race around. Displays on the buildings
design are accompanied by workshops, minimusicals and puppet shows (some in English
by request). Theres also a wonderful gift shop
selling old-fashioned toys. And up on the hill
at El Carmel is another UNESCO site, Park
Gell (www.parkguell.cat), an architectural
park with animal mosaics by Gaud, including
a giant salamander.
Park life
Green spaces abound in Barcelona; the
central Parc de la Ciutadella (www.bcn.cat)
has a fountain with water-spouting gilded
dragons, a boating lake, a huge statue of
a mammoth, free-ying green parrots, the
citys zoo and several museums, including
ones that house zoology collections. On the
other side of the city, part of the excitement
of Montjuc hill is just getting up and down
it by funicular and/or cable car. At the top
youll nd more heart-stopping views from
the impressive castle, the chance to take a
dip in the outdoor pool (in July and August)
and cultural gems like the Museu Nacional
dArt de Catalunya (www.mnac.cat) and the
Fundaci Joan Mir (www.fundaciomirobcn.org). And on certain evenings (9pm
from May-September and 7pm the rest of
the year), you can watch Montjucs Magic
Fountain sound-and-light show (www.bcn.cat).
PARK GELL
TIBIDABO PARK
Perched atop a hill, the Tibidabo
amusement park (www.tibidabo.cat)
is visible from all over Barcelona. The
zigzagging bus or taxi trip up to the summit
is worth it just for the 360-degree views of
the city, but the fairground rides and the
surreal museum of automatons are fun, too.
Take a tour
Get in touch with Kids & Cat (www.kidscat.com) for a personalised local tour
covering anything from medieval witchery
to the mountains surrounding the city, with
insider tips on where to take culture-weary
children to let off steam. For the fast-track
introduction to Barcelonas history, sign up
for a Dragon Hunt family orientation walk
with Context Travel (www.contexttravel.
com). Over the course of a leisurely twohour stroll, under-13s and their parental
hangers-on will spot legendary creatures
on faades and in the form of statues all
over the city. The same company also
arranges for local masters to conduct
workshops on stained glass, an art form
that was of huge importance to Gaud
and his Modernista contemporaries.
FUNDACI JOAN MIR
Beach time
The most buzzing of the citys beaches is
Barceloneta, but in high summer, its so
crowded that youll feel like a sardine in a
can, so youre better off steering away from
the centre. Uncrowded Mar Bella has plenty
of chiringuitos (beach cafs) where you can
sip a glass of beer or cava (Spanish sparkling
wine) while the kids make use of the pingpong tables or volleyball nets. If you start to
fry, seek refuge in the cafs of Rambla del
Poblenou or in the boutiques and galleries
of charming Carrer de Mari Aguil. You can
either get to Mar Bella by Metro or by taking
the tram to Selva de Mar or El Maresme;
alternatively, cycle there along the seafront in
View
including classic seafood and mar y
muntanya (seafood with wild mushrooms
and pork) in a fun, sociable atmosphere.
about 15 minutes, on bikes hired

from Biciclot (www.biciclot.net).
Monster munchers
Sweet treats
Do as the locals do and queue up to

place your order at the spanking-fresh
sh counter of La Paradeta Born (www.
laparadeta.com), just steps from the
Parc de la Ciutadella, before proceeding
to your table and feasting on chanquete
and other seafood. There are marinethemed colouring sheets and crayons
to keep the little ones amused. Then,
of course, theres tapas, the ultimate
family-friendly meal, with everyone able
to try something new from an array of
VIOKO
PAPABUBBLE
Where to stay
PHOTOGRAPHS: RODRIGO DIAZ; DDP IMAGES,

JUAN MANUEL PRIETO/CAMERAPRESS
LA BOQUERIA
small tasting dishes. The little counters at
La Boqueria (www.boqueria.info), one of the
worlds most colourful, characterful markets,
are your best bet.
For gastronomic Catalan, make for
the two-Michelin-starred Moments at the
Mandarin Oriental (www.mandarinoriental.
com); while the hotels Blanc Brasserie and
Gastrobar has excellent tapas as well as
child-friendly hot dogs and pasta.
Paella is another great drive-in-and-share
dish. Head for the seafront El Xiringuito
(www.xiringuitoescriba.com) near the Port
Olmpic, which serves different versions,
The duplex apartments at the

seafront Hotel Arts Barcelona (www.
hotelartsbarcelona.com; two-bedroom
apartments from 2,000 or 1.65 lakh) are
the ultimate crash pads. Occupying the top
oor of the 44-storey building, they have
up to three bedrooms and come with butler
service, telescopes for pirate-spotting out
at sea and a Mini Cabrio for exploring the
city. Theres a great outdoor pool and hot
tub within the terraced gardens. Of the ve
restaurants (one with two Michelin stars),
the most child-friendly is the relaxed,
all-day Bites, but all offer a kids menu
tagliatelle, grilled chicken, pizza, brownies
plus a drawing book.
All-white rooms in a cool, Modernist citycentre building with apartments designed
by the renowned Jaime Tresserra might
sound like a parents idea of pure stress,
but in fact, El Palauet (www.elpalauet.
com; suites from 499 or 41,260)
welcomes all ages. You can hire iPads and
It wouldnt be Barcelona without an ice

cream in hand. Vioko (www.vioko.es), on the
harbour by Barceloneta beach, is the coolest
joint in town, with fantastic avours, from
pistachio to rose and raspberry, plus loads
of chocolate.
For more of the dark stuff, make for the
Chocolate Museum (www.museuxocolata.
cat). Some of the displays are a bit dodgy
(Picassos Guernica rendered in chocolate),
but the workshops are fun, and theres a great
caf and pastry shop. At Papabubble (www.
papabubble.com), a super-chic sweet shop,
you can watch skilled artisans at work on
sheets of caramel and fruit candies.
Make sure you try a paper cone of churros
(Spanish doughnuts), best munched on the
hoof from the minimalistic Xurreria caf
(+34 933 187 691) on Banys Nous, as you
amble along the alleys of the Barri Gtic,
getting an eyeful of the quirky shops and
glorious architecture. The staff at La Granja
(+34 933 026 975), on the same street,
wont mind if you take your churros inside
to dip them into one of the rich, thick hot
chocolates on offer.
PlayStations, as well as DVDs, and your

assigned personal assistant will pre-order
any supplies you need for your arrival,
whether its nappies or your teenagers
favourite snacks. There are kitchenettes in
each of the six two-bedroom suites and 24hour room service, but El Palauets terric
Passeig de Grcia location means theres
a great culinary scene on your doorstep.
Set in an elegant late-19th-century
building just off the buzzy, central Plaa
de Catalunya, The 5 Rooms (www.
theverooms.com; doubles from 146
or 12,070) is Barcelonas best boutique
B&B choice for families. There are now
actually 14 rooms, all with exposed brick
walls and original oors. Get an extra bed,
book adjoining suites or take an apartment
with an extra sofabed in the living room and
a private terrace. Continental breakfasts
are laid out in the dining space and theres
an honesty bar (an unattended bar where
you can pay what you like). Also, the staff
members are great when it comes to local
restaurant recommendations.
Vote for your favourites and you could

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Sahiba Singh of Sahiba Singh store.

Clockwise from right: A board at
House of Blondie; a blouse at Kanelle;
graffiti at Shahpur Jat; Les Parisiennes;
sunglasses and a tie from Les Parisiennes
Wear to go
Your style guide + Architecture-inspired jewellery + Travel medical kits
25
HIP
BOUTIQUES IN
Shahpur Jat
Jasreen Mayal Khanna discovers a new side
to this Delhi neighbourhood thats brimming
with modern apparel, It accessories and
more. Photographs by Anshuman Sen
CNT
loves
ur capitals legendary urban villages are fantastic

neighbourhoods with a smorgasboard of restaurants, bars
and boutiques patronised by tourists and locals alike. In the
past ve years, as Hauz Khas grew into the citys most popular district
and rents soared, local designers began to move their stores to the
other villageShahpur Jat. Here, the crumbling streets and leafy
lanes are dotted with one-storey houses inhabited by Haryanvi Jats.
Soon enough, it became a hub for emerging bridal- and Indian-wear
designers, a place I frequented when trousseau-shopping in Delhi.
However, recently, a new crop of Indian and international designers
are changing the face and vibe of this quaint locality. They have
opened vintage apparel stores and eclectic jewellery boutiques,
which are juxtaposed with the homes of turbaned villagers. This
community of modern couturiers organises open-mic nights and
graffiti trails; some have opened cafs to cater to the ever-growing
onslaught of shoppers that swarm here daily. If you visit now, before
the rest of our shopaholic country wakes up to the wonder that is
Shahpur Jat, youll nd a treasure trove of clothing, accessories and
home products. Listed below are the 25 newest, trendiest shops
worth checking out:
Concept
stores
1. Les Parisiennes:
Owned by French-born Catherine Barbier

Prakash and Lucie Salaun, this is one of my favourite spots to browse
for hard-to-nd treasures, from vintage clothing to artefacts. Look
for lovely prints, quirky but sensible dresses and great t-shirts and
jackets. (011 2649 6754) From 250
2. Second Floor Studio: Wild portraits and colourful walls
accompany Punit Jasujas carefully curated line of linen, cushions,
candles, accessories and dapper menswear. Next door, he stocks
womens clothing and accessories from brands such as Olivia Dar r
Wear to go
and En Inde. (011 4350 9857)

From 530
3. Drawing Room: Alecca Carrano
(of Greek origin) worked at Vogue Italy
before setting up this space, where
she retails her own line of clothing,
along with jewellery by Navratna
and home products by Lunazef and
Galaxy 20. The adjoining Arte Cafe
serves sandwiches, cheese platters
and desserts. (011 4100 6563)
From 100
Clothing
4. Kanelle:
To call it fusion would

be a clich, but the collection here
truly stands out. I love the embellished
tunics with asymmetrical hemlines,
which are perfect for a cocktail or
dinner party. (011 4107 0919)
From 750
5. Sahiba Singh: As effortlessly
chic as her clothing line, this
designers store is a must-visit for
anyone coming to Shahpur Jat.
Pastel shirts and dresses, in owing
georgette, steal the limelight with
their impeccable tailoring and
nishing touches. (011 2649
8982) From 3,500
6. Collart: Shuchita Manchandas
brand brings together fashion and art.
The kaftans, dresses, saris, fabrics,
scarves and artefacts, all hand-painted
by local artisans, are especially popular
with her international clientele.
(098714 44583) From 550
7. Lila: Using natural fabrics and
minimal embellishment, Lilas
signature solid and colour-blocked
CNT
loves
apparel line is affordable without

compromising on quality. Come here
for earthy basics in warm hues such
as aubergine and coral. (www.yourlila.
com) From 30
8. Samant Chauhan: Chauhan
won global accolades for placing
his hometown, Bhagalpur, on the
international fashion map, and for
using local silk weavers in production.
Walk into his workshop, watch
couture gowns being created, then
place an order of your own. (www.
samantchauhan.com) From 3,000
9. House of Blondie: This is
a great bet for affordable yet trendy
clothingfrom blouses with fun
prints to skater skirts and colourful
accessories. If youre lucky, you might
even nd a vintage brooch or scarf
From left: A
bracelet from
Olivia Dar; Punit
Jasuja at Second
Floor Studio
from YSL or Viktor & Rolf. (http://

houseofblondie.com) From 500
10. Kardo: Owned by British Indian
Rikki Kher, this menswear boutique
offers beautifully handcrafted shirts,
trousers, jackets, shorts, bags and
accessories. (www.kardodesign.com)
From 700
11. Preeti S Kapoor: Head here
for bridal ensembles in neutral as
well as bright colours. (www.preeti
skapoor.com) From 7,000
12. Abhinav Mishra: Mishra
uses delicate prints, such as the
traditional paisley, on light fabrics
such as chiffon and georgette, in
neutral and pop-colour combinations.
Theyre absolutely perfect for the
contemporary bride. (078382
80607) From 1,500
Wear to go
CNT
loves
Home
13. The Wishing Chair:
Youll
be forgiven for thinking youve just
entered Wonderland. On offer here are
whimsical birdcages, potted plants,
ornate storage boxes and candles that
smell like heaven. (www.wishingchair.
in) From 150
14. The Sewing Machine: Rows and
rows of embellished cushions in pop
shades and a colourful chandelier
make this store look especially
inviting. (098185 26121) From 900
15. Add Ons: This handicrafts
store also has Kantha-embroidered
and block-printed saris in Chanderi,
Maheshwari and silk-cotton. (011
4175 1846) From 100
16. Chipkali: Youll nd decorative
mosquito nets that transform your
bedroom into a cosy space while
providing chemical-free protection
against these pests. The colourful
range is great for kids rooms.
(098992 73376) From 2,500
17. Serve In Style: This godsend
for the perfect host or hostess stocks
unique bar accessories such as
corkscrews and wine aerators, as well
as quirky glasses and tableware. You
can also get a bar designed for your
home. (099990 05547) From 400
18. The Gourmet Jar: Tucked
away in a corner, this tiny conture
shop sells lovely jams, preserves and

marmalades in avour combinations
such as strawberry-chocolate-mint
and spicy onion-balsamic. (www.
thegourmetjar.com) From 250
Stationery
19. Turmeric Ink:
This small
boutique agency employs a modern
sensibility, teamed with vivid colours,
in its event invitations, personalised
stationery and packaging. (www.
turmericink.com) From 250
20. Anand Prakash: The master
of bookmarks has also set up shop
in Shahpur Jat. Besides his signature
intricate gold bookmarks, he also
sells home products, jewellery and
gorgeous notebooks from Jaipur.
(www.anandprakash.in) From 350
Accessories
21. Wrap Studio:
From Pashminas
to silks, youll nd every kind of shawl,
wrap, stole and scarf here. They are
perfect for Delhis chilly winters and
make great gifts for friends abroad.
(www.wrap-studio.com) Price
on request
22. NIMAI: Pooja Roy Yadav
and Neha Gautam Yadavs multibrand boutique is a jewellery lovers
paradise, stocking Zariins coloured
stone pieces, vintage treasures by
Viange and Maithili Kabres covetable
From left: Pooja

Roy Yadav and
Neha Gautam
Yadav of NIMAI;
a belt from Olivia
Dar; Sahiba
Singhs store
gold rings, among others. (011

6430 0113) From 799
23. Olivia Dar: This Romeborn designer studied gemology
and embroidery in Jaipur, and her
signature jewelled collars and stud
bracelets have earned a cult following
in India. Also check out her new line
of evening clutches. (011 4050 1899)
From 500
Kids
clothes
24. yes OUI care:
This ethical
brand hosts art workshops for
street children and then prints their
drawings on the softest fabrics to
create clothing for kids and yogawear for adults. (http://yesouicare.
wordpress.com) From 750
25. Pappu: With malmal, cotton
and fabric embellishments, Pappus
outts are fuss-free and traditional
a hit with parents and kids alike.
(011 2649 5817) From 350
GETTING THERE
The most convenient way
to reach Shahpur Jat is to use the
BSES powerhouse as a landmark
and then go in from the closest
entrance. Walk to the Dada Jungi
House lane, where you can pick
up an extremely useful illustrated
map from any of the stores
mentioned, and plan your
route accordingly.
Discover more while you travel.

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BEST ISLANDS
cntraveller.in/itunes
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Wear to go
Inspiration: Delhis Mughal mausoleums
Sherwani buttons crafted with uncut diamonds and
22ct gold set in ruby, Rose
Inspiration: Rajasthans palaces

White, yellow and uncut diamond earrings crafted in
18ct gold, Anmol Jewellers
BUILDING BLING
COMPILED BY: JASREEN MAYAL KHANNA PHOTOGRAPHS: BINAIFER BHARUCHA
These Indian architecture-inspired pieces will make a statement wherever you go
Inspiration: Mumbais art deco strip

Deco Bracelet from the International Red Carpet
Collection, Forevermark
Inspiration: Tamil Nadus temples

Bridal earrings in antique gold, Azva
All prices on request. See Directory, p208
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#LOVE
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Her essentials
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FIRST
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trousseau
GET
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KIM WESTON-ARNOLD; DWAIPAYAN MAZUMDAR
Trend Report
LOOKS WE LOVE, STRAIGHT FROM THE CATWALKS OF
PARIS, NEW YORK, LONDON, MILAN AND DELHI
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA MARCH 2014 177
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Download here: Vogue.in/iPad

*LIMITED PERIOD ONLY
Wear to go
STRIKE A BOND
On your honeymoon, dissolve the difference between his
and hers and pick one of these watcheswhich, when worn
by either of you, will count the hours spent together
6
5
COMPILED BY: PRASAD RAMAMURTHY ILLUSTRATION: SOUMIK LAHIRI PHOTOGRAPH: SHUTTERSTOCK
2
1
1 Classique Tourbillon Extra-plat

Automatique, Breguet 2 Imperiale 40mm
White, Chopard 3 Rotonde de
Cartier Astrocalendaire, Cartier
4 Speedmaster Mark II, OMEGA, 3,38,000
5 Ck color, Calvin Klein, 12,000 6 Oyster
Perpetual Milgauss, Rolex, 5,18,200
All prices on request, unless stated
otherwise. See Directory, page 208
Dear Bride,
8
weeks to go
5 reasons to be at the Vogue Wedding Show
See you there! Love, Vogue
Date: August 1-3, 2014 Time: 11.30 am - 7.30 pm Venue: The Taj Palace, New Delhi
Curated specially by Vogue, the Vogue Wedding Show is a 3-day bridal
extravaganza that showcases the best, latest and most exclusive
services in the bridal world to help you create your dream wedding.
BRIDAL WEAR DESIGNERS

Anju Modi O JJ Valaya OManish Malhotra
OSabyasachi OShantanu & Nikhil OTarun Tahiliani
& more
JEWELLERS
Amrapali OBegani Jewels ODiacolor OHazoorilal Jewellers
OHeeramaneck & Son OHouse of Surana OKhanna Jewellers
OMangatrai Jewellers ONirav Modi ORaj Mahtani Couture Jewels ORose
& more
Premium Gifting & Services like Andraab O Ekaya O Vivek Sahni Design & many more
Register now
VISIT
or CALL
www.vogueweddingshow.in
+91 9920274470/+91 9167706082

BY INVITATION ONLY
Disclaimer: Confirmed brands as on date
1
2
3
4
5
Personally meet and interact with the

countrys leading names in bridal couture
to look your best on your wedding day
A private viewing of the most

exquisite jewellery from Delhi,
Hyderabad, Jaipur, Kolkata, Mumbai
and other centres
Meet the specialists.

At our masterclasses industry experts
share their insights and tips on
hair, make-up, beauty, nutrition,
wellness and more
PHOTOGRAPHY: SIGNE VILSTRUP
Theres something for the groom too

A showcase of the latest menswear
collections from leading designers and
dedicated masterclasses on lifestyle
trends, fashion tips by Vogue and
a session on malts and wines
Vogue Picks a ne selection of artisanal

crafts and products handpicked by Vogue
from all over the country
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THE
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Reporting
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underground
hip hop clubs
The coolest
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INSIDE THE
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OF DAMAN
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PHOTOGRAPHED BY FARROKH CHOTHIA
Wear to go
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12
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COMPILED BY: JASREEN MAYAL KHANNA STYLED BY: RADHIKA MAHESHWARI PHOTOGRAPHS: BINAIFER BHARUCHA
10
TRAVEL MEDICAL KIT
essentials
This checklist has all you need for easy health xes when youre on the go
1. Bandage or gauze
Brand: any
Use for: dressing
a wound or reducing
the ow of blood
in the case of a bite
2. Paracetamol
Brand: Calpol
Use for: fever and pain
3. Ibuprofen
Brand: Brufen 400mg
Use for: body pain
and joint aches
15
Hand sanitizer
4. Anti-allergy
medication
Brand: Cetcip Use for:
allergy symptoms such
as colds and itching
5. Metoclopramide
Brand: Maxeran
Use for: motion
sickness, nausea
and vomiting
6. Loperamide
Brand: Imodium Use
for: general diarrhoea
7. Cold medicine
Brand: Rhinostat
Use for: a common
cold and u
8. Adhesive bandage
Brand: BAND-AID Use
for: scrapes and wounds
9. Oral rehydration
salts Brand: Electral
Use for: dehydration
Lactocalamine
12. Antacid tablets

Brand: Gelusil
Use for: heartburn,
chest, skin and

urinary infections
Its also recommended

that you carry the
following with you
on your travels:
13. Antiseptic wipes
14. Insect repellent
11. Antispasmodic
drug such as
dicyclomine
Brand: Cyclopam
Use for: abdominal pain
caused by travellers
diarrhoea or other
related sickness
16
10. Broad spectrum

antibiotic
Brand: Augmentin
Use for: throat,
caused by menstruation,
gallstones and more
17
Cough syrup
indigestion and gas
Inputs from Dr Vikas

Paonaskar and Dr
Vishakha Shivdasani
18
Ear drops
MAY- JUNE 2014
INDIA
`150
ARCHITECTURAL DIGEST THE MOST BEAUTIFUL HOMES IN THE WORLD
MODERN & Traditional

IN HYDERABAD, AD VISITS PINKY & GV SANJAY REDDY,
THE MAN BEHIND SOME OF INDIAS BEST AIRPORTS
S ONING
U
C
FO T LIV
R
WILL!
A
T
A
M
H LIVE
S
TS T
C
OU
ODUE WAY Y G IN A
R
P
170+ NGE TH S LIVINHOME.
CHA URIOU ATED
LUX FABRIC HOME
PRE PLUSH WALLS
A OUT
H
WIT
PRODUCTS,
TECHNIQUES & IDEAS
TO ORGANISE YOUR SPACES

It's all about intelligent spaces and utilitarian design in AD's May-June issue. From
multipurpose furniture to appliances and gadgets, AD features over 170 products
that promise to change the way you live.
AD invites you inside the Hyderabad abode of Pinky and GV Sanjay Reddy. Plus,
AD gives you a glimpse into the chic New York homes of funnyman Will Ferrell and
actress Brooke Shields.
MAY - JUNE
2014 ISSUE
ON STANDS NOW
@archdigestindia
architecturaldigestindia/facebook
June
From a rock fest in Quebec to an electronic extravaganza in
12
JUNE
WHERE Essaouira, Morocco

WHAT Let yourself go at the
17th edition of Festival Gnaoua
et Musiques du Monde (www.
festival-gnaoua.net), which
celebrates its African roots and
features about 350 musicians.
WHEN 12-15 June
HOW After the festival,
rent a board from You Surf
Essaouira and hit the waves.
(www.yousurfessaouira.com)
20
JUNE
WHERE Montebello, Canada

WHAT Take part in Quebecs
biggest and best rock festival,
the Amnesia Rockfest, where
bands such as Weezer, Blink-182
and Megadeth are headlining.
WHEN 20-21 June
HOW To experience the festival
properly, you should camp
on site. Book online through
the official website. (www.
amnesiarockfest.com)
27
JUNE
WHERE Singapore
WHAT If Indie music is your
thing, head to the Asia-centric
Baybeats, an alternative music
festival, to hear up-and-coming
local and international artists.
WHEN 27-29 June
HOW Its just a 20-minute
drive from Changi Airport
to the venue: Esplanade Theatres on the Bay. (www.
baybeats.com.sg)
TEXT: ROXANNE TARAPOR AND CECILY WALKER

PHOTOGRAPH: GETTY
WHERE Budapest, Hungary

WHAT Visit the Palace of Arts to
witness classical music genius
at the Wagner in Budapest
Festival. Highlights include
performances of The Ring of
the Nibelung and Tannhuser.
WHEN 12-22 June
HOW Stay at the Danubius
Hotel Gellrt, a 10-minute drive
away. (www.danubiushotels.
com) Doubles from 53 ( 4,460)
15
JUNE
The Budapest Festival Orchestra.

Opposite: SKATERS will be
performing at Splendour in
the Grass this summer
July
Belgium, our pick of the worlds music events this season
JULY
WHERE Montreux, Switzerland

WHAT Groove to the beats and
rhythms of the 48th Montreux
Jazz Festival, a world-famous
event that brings together
a fusion of all things soul.
WHEN 4-19 July
HOW Dine in style while
watching unseen footage
from previous festivals at
Montreux Jazz Caf. (www.
montreuxjazzfestival.com)
17
JULY
WHERE Benicssim, Spain

WHAT For sea, sun and sound,
pick FIB for your summer music
festival x. Theres a stellar lineup this year, including Kasabian,
Ellie Goulding and Lily Allen.
WHEN 17-20 July
HOW Buy a VIP Pass (325 or
27,340), which will give you
access to the official VillaCamp
site, the VIP terrace and parking.
(www.berb.com)
18
JULY
WHERE Boom, Belgium

WHAT Tomorrowland, a wild
and wonderful electronic music
extravaganza has a line-up this
year that includes some of the
best DJs known to EDM fans.
WHEN 18-20 and 25-27 July
HOW Stay in DreamVille, the
official camping ground, which
hosts 35,000 festival-goers each
day. (www.tomorrowland.com)
From 52.50 ( 4,420) per person
25
JULY
WHERE New South Wales, Australia

WHAT Soak up the sunshine and
great performances at Splendour
in the Grass. Australias most
popular winter festival happens in
the lovely North Byron Parklands.
WHEN 25-27 July
HOW Go to Splendour Forum,
where comedians, musicians
and journalists alike participate
in interviews and debates.
(www.splendourinthegrass.com)
HOT
126
PHOTOGRAPH: DAVID CROOKES
T H E
L I S T
2 0 1 4
127
T H I s Y E A R 's
TO P 5O
H OT E LS
NEW
IN
INDIA
ASIa,
A U ST R A L I A
& new
zealand
THE
AMERICAS
Fogo Island Inn,
Newfoundland,
Canada
Man dar in
Or iental Pu dong,
Shangha i, chin a
Loews Regency
Hotel, New York
City, US
The Marlton
Hotel, New York
City, US
Thompson
Chicago, US
Hotel Zetta San
Francisco, US
The Line, Los
Angeles, US
The Redbury South
Beach, Miami, US
Mukul Resort &
Spa, Guacalito de
la Isla, Nicaragua
Four Seasons
Hotel Lion Palace
St. Petersburg,
Russ ia
The Chedi
An dermatt,
Switzerlan d
W Verbier,
Switzerlan d
d Angleterre,
Copenhagen,
netherlan ds
An daz Pen insula

Pa pagayo Resort,
Costa Rica
Ace Hotel London

Shoreditch, UK
Amer ican Tr a de
Hotel, Pan ama
City, Pan ama
Rosewood
Lon don, UK
The Ritz Carlton,

Aruba, aruba
The Lon don

Edition, UK
Hotel B, Lima, Peru
Pr ince de Galles,
Par is, fr ance
Butterfly House,
Bahi a, Br azil
Awas i Patagon i a,
Chile
128
Mir a Moon, Hong

kong, chin a
EUROPE
Aman Can al
Gr an de Ven ice,
italy
Park Hyatt Siem

Rea p, Cambodi a
AFRICA
& THE
MIDDLE
E A ST
Regent Bal i,
in dones i a
the LaLit
Chan digarh,
chan digarh
Hyatt Regency
Gurgaon,
haryan a
JW Marr iott
hotel new
delhi Aerocity,
new delhi
JAWA I Leopar d
Camp,
Ra jasthan
Point Yamu by
COMO, Phuket,
tha ilan d
Abode, Mumba i,
mahar ashtr a
Seger a Retreat,
La ik ip i a Plateau,
Kenya
Amano i, Vinh Hy
Bay, Vietn am
Tr ident
Hyder aba d,
an dhr a pr a desh
Chinzombo
Lodge, South
Lu angwa, Zambi a
In i ala Beach
House, Phuket,
tha ilan d
Singita Castleton,
South Afr ica
Cheval Blanc
Ran dhel i,
Maldives
Vida Downtown
DubaI, UAE
1888 Hotel,
Sydney, Austr al i a
An antar a
Sir Ban i Yas
Islan d Al Sahel
Villa Resort,
Abu Dhabi, UAE
Owner s Cottage
at Matakaur i,
queenstown,
New Zealan d
The Oberoi,
Duba i, UAE
the Temple Hotel,

Be ijing, chin a
JW Marr iott
hotel
Bengaluru,
karn ataka
The Ritz
Carlton,
Bengaluru,
karn ataka
Dus it Devarana,
New Delhi
PHOTOGRAPH: IWAN BAAN TEXT: SAMIRA SOOD
Two in New York City, three in London and 10 more in India... plus stays in
exotic destinations such as Aruba, Zambia and Newfoundland. CNT picks
the worlds coolest new hotels and tells you why each one is special
Van a,
Mals i Estate,
uttar akhan d
T H E
HOT L I S T
2 0 1 4
THE
AMERICAS
THE AMERICAS
Fogo Islan d Inn,
Newfoun dlan d, Can a da
Why its on the list: Set on an island at the furthest
eastern fringe of North America, this hotel on stilts is
a perfect example of how to combine old-fashioned,
community-driven hospitality with the very latest
facilities. There is a touch of local craftsmanship in
everythingfrom the furniture to the linenand the
food, made using local ingredients, experiments with
traditional recipes. Interestingly, while the luxurious
rooms and rooftop hot tubs are as fancy as it gets, the
inn is a charitable trust and all prots go back to the
local community.
Know before you book: You can go hiking or walking
on the islands 14 ruggedly beautiful trails, but the
best way to get a feel of the place is to spend time
with a local host, who would be more than happy
to give you an insiders view on everything from
cooking to picking berries and sighting whales. (www.
fogoislandinn.ca) Doubles from C$952 ( 52,500)
Fogo Island Inn, Canada.

Previous pages: Segera
Retreat, Kenya
129
about this Park Avenue space

spells thoughtfulbe it the
free wi- for up to four devices
throughout the hotel or the
complimentary ironing of
two garments on arrival. The
Regency Bar & Grill offers star
dishes such as the Spanish
octopus with chorizo, white
beans and butternut squash,
and the famed spiced duck
breast with black barley, dried
cherries and pistachios. Each of
the 379 rooms (including the 58
suites) has a 47-inch at-screen
TV with movies on demand and
a safe. The bath and beauty
products (including a hairdryer)
are all from Julien Farel, one of
haircares most toasted names.
Know before you book: Some
of the 1,100sq-ft Park Avenue
Suites have balconies. (www.
loewshotels.com) Doubles from
US$511 ( 30,660)
The Marlton Hotel,

New York City, US
Why its on the list: Hotelier
Sean MacPherson clearly has an
eye for detail. The rooms, most
of which are tiny (barring the
two 450sq-ft penthouse suites)
are beautifully done up with
herringbone-patterned oors
and gilded headboards. The
in-house restaurant, Margaux,
serves a mix of dishes with
Mediterranean, French and
Californian touches, such as
the kale casarecce with braised
rabbit, black trumpets and
vermentino, and the wild
striped bass with Montauk
squid and cannelloni.
Know before you book:

The cocktail bar opens at 7am.
Did someone say Champagne
breakfast? (http://marlton
hotel.com) Doubles from
US$250 ( 15,000)
Thompson Chicago, US
Why its on the list:
Superlative service and its
location in the Gold Coast area
make this hotel a standout
2013 opening. The exposed
130
brick walls, wooden beams,

large windows and plush fabrics
(cowhide, tweed and velvet)
give it a warm, cosy feel. Noted
Chicago chef Paul Kahanwho
co-owns well-known eateries
such as Blackbird, avec and The
Publicanhelms Nico Osteria
here, a seafood-focused Italian
restaurant, where star dishes
include the killer squid-ink
bucatini with pine nuts, chilli and
mint, and sardines in carpione.

The long bar at Nico Osteria
is designed to accommodate
table for one requests. (www.
thompsonchicago.com) Doubles
from US$313 ( 18,780)
Hotel Zetta
San Fr ancisco, US
Why its on the list: If theres
a place that captures the
youthful, tech-savvy zeitgeist of
San Francisco right now, its this
Viceroy Group hotel. In a prime
location near Union Square in
the SoMa neighbourhood, it
has a spacious lobby and bar
ooded with natural light, and a
whimsical aesthetic (chandeliers
are made of spectacles) thats
modern and clubby. Theres

a playroom stocked with
games such as shuffleboard
and life-sized Jenga, as well as
Wii consoles. Rooms have a
vintage-tech dcor: a wall-sized
portrait of a woman made from
oppy disks, an Atari console
and a turntable with a selection
of old albums. A more modern
kit includes an Illy espresso
machine and a G-Link dock that
streams music and videos from
an iPhone or iPad to the TV. The
Cavalier, its upscale brasserie,
specialises in British classics
such as steak-and-oyster pie.
Know before you book: The
complimentary wi- can be
used across 10 devices. (www.
viceroyhotelgroup.com) Doubles
from US$506 ( 30,360)
The Line, Los Angeles, US

Why its on the list: Sure
youve packed into Koreatowns
buzzy bars and clubs and stayed
on for breakfast at one of its
bakeries. But ever considered
staying there? Well, its time
you did. The Line offers stylish
rooms and suitesbare cement
walls contrasted by Inca print
textiles and stellar views of the

Hollywood Hills. Downstairs,
Pot (by Roy Choi of Kogi BBQ
fame) puts a whole new spin
on American-Korean fare and
Commissary focuses on farmto-table vegetarian fare. Speak,
a mid-century lounge by the
Houston Brothers, is expected to
open this summer and turn into
a major watering hole. Till then,
travellers can more than make
do with concoctions brewed
at the Pot Lobby Bar, before
heading to adjacent Cafe to
satisfy their midnight munchies.

Minibars are stocked with
Korean snacks and drinks.
(www.thelinehotel.com) Doubles
from US$276 ( 16,560)
The Redbury South

Beach, Mi am i, US
Why its on the list: It may
look like a bit of a runt in the
shadow of Collins Avenue
neighbours, such as the
13-storey Delano, but it certainly
proves the adage Good things
come in small packages. The
edgy, playful design includes
black-and-white oor tiles and
red Adirondack chairs in the
central courtyard. Upstairs,
corridors lined with grey-andwhite wallpaper are punctuated
with red, lemon-yellow and
amingo-pink doors. The 69
bedrooms are big, with mirrored
wardrobes, boxy Geneva
alarm clocks and faux-vintage
turntables with a stack of 78s.
There are great views from the
rooftop pool terrace, and a herb
garden and bar are to be added
this summer.
Know before you book: Guests
here get free access to the beach
at The Raleigh and the tness
facilities at SLS South Beach.
(http://theredbury.com) Doubles
from US$253 ( 15,180)
An daz Pen insula

Pa pagayo Resort,
Costa Rica
Why its on the list: Just a
20-minute drive from the airport on
a newly developed, tropical forestcovered spit of land, on r p132
PHOTOGRAPHS: PEDEN & MUNK; KEN KOCHEY TEXT: PRASAD RAMAMURTHY;

SAMIRA SOOD; MARION FOX; DOUGLAS ROGERS; BONNIE TSUI
Loews Regency Hotel,

New York City, US
Why its on the list: Everything
Mukul Resort & Spa,

Gu acal ito de la Isla,
Nicar agu a
Why its on the list: After the contras were
nally repelled in the 90s, Nicaragua has
made a slow transition from a strife-torn
backpacker haunt to a luxury ecotourism
destination. And the opening of the Mukul,
overlooking Manzanillo beach, is a sure
sign that the countrys nding its feet. Its 12
Beach Villas come with private swimming
pools, and 23 sumptuous Bohios (traditional
huts) are paved with Nicaraguan travertine
marble. The spa offers traditional (ayurveda,
Thai, Balinese) and exotic (crystal and
thalassotherapy) treatments, and there
is also a golf course nearby.
Know before you book: The owners
are committed to making Mukul a localinclusive propertyso your staffs from
the neighbourhood and, depending on the
season, local naturalists can lead trips to see
humpback whales and the nesting sites of
olive ridley turtles. (www.mukulresort.com)
Doubles from US$635 ( 38,100)
T H E
HOT L I S T
2 0 1 4
THE
AMERICAS
Mukul Resort & Spa,

Nicaragua. Opposite:
The Line, Los Angeles
131
Amer ican Tr a de Hotel,

Pan ama City, Pan ama
Why its on the list: In the
centennial year of Panamas
famed canal, the transformation
of the 1917 neoclassical
headquarters of the American
Trade Developing Company
is attracting tremendous
attention. Located in the leafy
UNESCO World Heritage Site
neighbourhood of Casco
Viejo, the four-storey, 50room building fronting the
Plaza Herrera has been given
a Havana-inspired makeover
(palm-print sofas, swags of
tropical foliage). Aside from the
dcor, too, theres lots to love,
beginning with the rates, which
are inexplicably lower than those
of the high-rises across the bay.
For a quiet evening, escape to
132
for tiles and sourced silk throws

from the Atlas Mountains. So
complete is the solitude that
its easy to forget that down
the coast lies the hip hotspot
of Barra Grande, a hangout for
beautiful Brazilians and chic
Notting Hill billies tired of the
show-and-tell of Trancoso. Add
the abundant fresh lobster, live
music in sandy squares and
daytime discos that spring out
of virgin rainforest, and you may
just be in holiday nirvana.

Service is reassuringly slick.
The staff will organise yoga
sessions, jungle quad-biking,
surf lessons and boat cruises
to nearby waterfalls. (http://
butteryhousebahia.com)
Doubles from R$500 ( 13,490)
Awas i Patagon i a, Chile

Why its on the list: In the
the rooftop pool; or to get in on

the action, head down to the
hotels jazz club, where you can
mingle with well-heeled locals.
Know before you book: Get
a room on the fourth oor for
a great view of ships gliding by.
(www.acehotel.com) Doubles
from US$262 ( 15,740)
Hotel B, Lima, Peru

Why its on the list: Its
very odd that a creative,
cosmopolitan city such as Lima
has lacked a smart boutique
hotel such as this for so long.
The imaginary ownerdreamed
up by interior designer Jordi
Puigis Florita Trista, a Peruvian
aristo art dealer with a passion
for travel and a habit of breaking
the rules. Hotel B was conceived
as Tristas private home, thrown
open to display a dazzling
collection of contemporary art
and highlight her exceptional
talent as a hostess. There are
sweeping marble staircases,
fragrant bowls of freshly cut
roses and signicant artworks
(by the likes of Victor Rodriguez
and Jos Tola) on loan from
the Lucia de la Puente Gallery,

which is connected to the hotel.
Dramatic canvases dominate
the white walls of the 17 highceilinged bedrooms. But it is
the restaurant thats the real
draw: a hit with chic locals for
its yellown tuna tataki, its also
perfect for people-watching
over Pisco Sours.
Art Concierge at this hotel can
arrange private viewings at local
galleries, including the Lucia
de la Puenta Gallery. (http://
hotelb.pe) Doubles from
US$529 ( 31,780)
Butterfly House,
Bahi a, Br azil
Why its on the list: A jungle
retreat tucked between coconut
palms and freshwater lagoons
on Brazils Mara Peninsula, this
deliciously laidback hotel may
be an effort to get to, but it is
worth it. There are ve bamboo
bungalows on stilts, with private
porches and grass roofs, and
three sea-view suites situated
in the main house. Owner Chloe
Gibbs raided a Casablancan riad
adventurers playground of
Chilean Patagonia, intimate,
eco-conscious newcomer
Awasi shines brighter than the
gleaming Lake Sarmiento it
overlooks. Rather than being
conned within the Torres del
Paine National Park, Awasi
stands on a ridge above 6,000
hectares of private reserve,
giving a sense of space and
solitude usually only afforded
to local gauchos. And make
like a gaucho you will: the 12
secluded villas by architect
Felipe Assadi are modelled
on the cattle-herders cabins
beer-blond log houses with
corrugated roofs that gleam
like silversh in the forest.
Inside, its all grandpa
armchairs and log res, with
king-sized beds centred so
you can watch the dramatic
landscape unfold.
Know before you book: Each
villa is assigned a guide and fourwheel-drive vehicle on call 24/7.
Whether you want to rip across
the steppes, track pumas or
stargaze in secluded canyons,
you can explore Patagonia on
your own terms. (www.awasi.
com) Doubles from CL$16.83
lakh ( 1.78 lakh), all-inclusive
PHOTOGRAPHS: ALICE GAO; WILLIAM HEREFORD TEXT: LAUREN HOLMES; NICHOLAS GILL
the northern Pacic coast, this

is a great new family destination.
In the open-air lobby, a futuristic
cocoon-shaped pod, you are
greeted by staff for a speedy
check-in before being whisked
away in a golf cart to your room.
All rooms are housed in earthhued stone and hardwood
structures that blend seamlessly
into the greenery. They have
polished cement oors and
some come with bay-facing
balconies and enormous en-suite
bathrooms with walk-in rain
showers and pebbled oors.
Unlike most jungle retreats,
this one is not about roughing
it at alleven the most spideraverse will feel at home here,
particularly kids. When not
frolicking in the pool (theres
one for families and another
exclusively for adults), they can
take advantage of the endless
activities on offer, including
charades and limbo challenges,
at the Cambi Kids Club.
staff is available up to nine
hours a day to lead on-property
animal rescue adventures and
oversee sandcastle building on
the two private beaches. (http://
papagayo.andaz.hyatt.com)
T H E
HOT L I S T
2 0 1 4
THE
AMERICAS
The Ritz Carlton, Aruba, Aruba

Why its on the list: This 320-room hotel, where every room
The childrens pool at The

Ritz-Carlton, Aruba. Opposite:
Hotel Zetta San Francisco, US
comes with some sort of ocean view, is easily the best resort on
the island right now. Much of that has to do with its location on a
pristine stretch of white sand called Palm Beach, the Caribbeans
most exceptional windsurng spot. The hotel is extremely familyfriendly, with a range of activitieskayaking, paddle boarding, artsand-crafts sessions, movie nightsto keep your little ones busy.
Theres even a large swimming pool for children and a separate one
for adults. So if youre seeking peace and quiet, you neednt worry
about squealing kids intruding into your space.
Know before you book: Adults can head to the spa or partake in
a yoga session at the tness centre, all the while knowing that their
children are safe with the babysitting staff. (www.ritzcarlton.com)
133
EUROPE
Rosewood Lon don, UK

Why its on the list: Located
Four Seasons
Hotel Lion Palace
St. Petersburg, Russ i a
Why its on the list: Heres
near Covent Garden and the

West End Theatre, here is British
grandeur at its best. The 262
rooms and 44 suites, in a muted
colour palette of grey and cream,
spell sophistication, while the
plush armchairs and massive
shelves lled with books give the
Scarfes Bar the look of a library
or den. Try any of the more than
200 single malts or the hotels
own make of sloe gin.
Know before you book: It
takes child-friendliness to a new
level, with personalised welcome
letters for its young guests.
(www.rosewoodhotels.com)
The Chedi An dermatt,

Switzerlan d
Why its on the list: With
spectacular mountains
surrounding it, a sprinkling of
lovely places to stay at and a
timeless village vibe, not much
had changed in Andermatt since
the 50suntil the arrival of The
Chedi. Combining a chic, alpine
look with innovative, modernAsian dcor, the 106 spacious
guest rooms and suites are
lavish yet understated. Theres
a vast wellness centre kitted out
with hydrothermal baths and
Finnish saunas. After a day spent
on the slopes, unwind at The
Wine and Cigar Library, or sip
a cup of Swiss coffee beside The
Courtyards crackling replace.
Know before you book: Each
room offers gorgeous views of
snowy mountains or villages.
(www.thechedi-andermatt.com)
Doubles from CHF659 ( 44,660)
W Verbier, Switzerlan d
Why its on the list: The rooms
at this swanky, 130-key hotel are
kitted out with state-of-the-art
134
The Lon don EDITION, UK

Why its on the list: When
technology and cosy furnishings.

They also have majestic views
of the slopes. After a hard-core
skiing adventure, you can head
to the AWAY Spa to recharge
your batteries or dine at a twoMichelin-starred restaurant
headed by Spanish celebrity
chef Sergi Arola.
hotel is positioned in the Mdran
area, so you can ski right in.
(www.wverbier.com) Doubles
from CHF750 ( 51,530)
d Angleterre,
Copenhagen,
netherlan ds
Why its on the list: This 90key, landmark hotel, close to the
Nyhavn Canal and the shopping
street, Stroget, has undergone
a meticulous refurbishment.
While maintaining its classic
design aesthetic, modern
facilitiescomplimentary wi-,
Nespresso machines and heated
toilet seatshave been added.

At Marchal, which won itself
a Michelin star in March, chef
Ronny Emborg puts a modern
twist on Nordic and French

cuisine. Adjacent Balthazar,
Denmarks rst Champagne
bar, serves 160 different labels.
(www.dangleterre.dk) Doubles
from DKK2,750 ( 30,830)
Ace Hotel Lon don

Shoreditch, UK
Why its on the list: Bang in
this hotspot, in the centre of

Londons glamorous Fitzrovia,
opened back in 1909, it was
called Berners Hotel and was the
hangout for Edwardian Londons
movers and shakers. Now, Ian
Schrager has transformed
this elegant, historic building
into a 173-room sophisticated,
minimalist haven.

Michelin-starred chef Jason
Atherton, who heads the kitchen
at Berners Tavern, draws in
crowds of Londons well-heeled
foodies, so you can peoplewatch while you feast. (http://
edition-hotels.marriott.com)
the middle of an area known

for its art and culture offerings,
the rooms at this boutique
hotel are a study in hipster chic.
Rooms come with free wi-,
Revo radios and bathrobes with
hoodies. Some even come with
Rega turntables and a selection
of vinyl records to play. At Hoi
Polloi, a modern brasserie
by East End trendsetter
Bistrotheque, the menu not only
informs you about the eaterys
specials but also local cultural
news. BEAT magazine hosts
musical evenings here.
1928 hotel has undergone an

extensive renovation. Thankfully,
its Parisian, art deco character
staysfrom the gold and
terracotta mosaics at Le Patio
restaurant to the in-room
furniture. Digital-age additions
include complimentary wi-
and Bulgari bath amenities.
Superior Deluxe Double Double

rooms, with two double beds,
are great for a family with young
kids. (www.acehotel.com)
Reserve in advance if you want

a table at La Scne, the hotels
Michelin-starred restaurant.
(www.princedegallesparis.com)
Pr ince de Galles,
Par is, Fr ance
Why its on the list: This
PHOTOGRAPHS: DAN KULLBERG; MATTHEW BUCK TEXT: LAURA GRIFFITH-JONES;

SAMIRA SOOD; PRASAD RAMAMURTHY; TANVI TIPNIS; LEE MARSHAL
your opportunity to live it up

like a Russian oligarch, albeit
in a 19th-century gilded palace.
The Lion Palace, which the Four
Seasons took eight painstaking
years to resurrect as a modern
hotel, was built for the LobanovSostovsky royal family. Today,
its rooms come with internet
access, bathroom mirrors with
in-built TVs, heated balcony
oors and views of Saint Isaacs
Cathedral, Aleksandrovsky
Garden and the landmark
Admiralty area.
lions standing at the grand
entrance gure in Alexander
Pushkins famous poem, The
Bronze Horseman. This is
a great spot for a sele. (www.
fourseasons.com) Doubles
from RUB17,110 ( 28,960)
T H E
HOT L I S T
2 0 1 4
EUROPE
Aman Can al Gr an de Ven ice, I taly

Why its on the list: The late-Renaissance
Palazzo Papadopoli (which houses the 24-suite
hotel and has featured in paintings by Paolo
Veronese and JMW Turner) is a Casanova fantasy
of sweeping staircases, marble replaces and
frescoed reception rooms. Restoring all this, while
fashioning an Aman-style hotel out of the family
home of Venetian royals, Giberto and Bianca
Arrivabene, was a big challenge. It would have
been easy to turn the ballroom or the library into
bedrooms, especially with their Grand Canal
views; instead they have been left intact, the rst
becoming the dining room of the hotels AsianVenetian restaurant, while the latter remains
a quiet reading room. The small spa and two
gardens are welcome havens, too.
Know before you book: The bedrooms blend
Venetian style with sober tones of grey, cream
and white; in the Alcove Tiepolo, you can lie in
bed contemplating an original ceiling fresco by
the artist himself. (www.amanresorts.com)
Doubles from 1,265 ( 1.05 lakh)
Aman Canal Grande Venice, Italy.

Opposite: Rosewood London
135
Seger a Retreat,
La ik ip i a Plateau, Kenya
Why its on the list: There is
no shortage of beautiful safari
spots on the Laikipia Plateau,
but there is no place quite like
Segera Retreat. A contemporary
collection of thatched, wooden
villas at the heart of a 50,000acre property, with Mount
Kenya rising in the distance, the
retreat is a wilderness escape.
Its inspired gardensa jigsaw
of cacti, bougainvillea and salt
poolssurround six two-storey
villas, as well as the larger Villa
Segera and stone-clad Segera
House. Each is different: one
has a big outdoor bath carved
from a single rock; another
features photographs by Michael
Poliza. Segeras owner, Jochen
Zeitz, is crazy about African
artand its everywhere.
Know before you book: Like the
art, the food is sensational and
African-grown, and every meal
is served in a different spot: by
a pool, at a riverside picnic table,
in the candle-lit stables or in the
Wine Tower, a concrete, aboveground cellar with more than
2,000 bottles of excellent wine.
(www.segera.com) Doubles from
US$1,940 ( 1.17 lakh), inclusive
of meals and beverages
Chinzombo Lodge,
South Luangwa, Zambia
Why its on the list: Zambias
South Luangwa National Park
is famous for running the
continents nest guided walking
safaris, and Norman Carrthe
founder of the company behind
Chinzombowas the rst to
set them up, back in the 1950s.
The new lodge sits on the banks
of the Luangwa River, beneath
a canopy of ancient trees.
It was assembled at-pack
style and can be taken down
and recycled without leaving
a trace. The six tented suites
are on raised platforms built
from reconstituted timber and
the beds are cooled by an eco-
136
friendly air-conditioning system.

In the central mess tent, there
are carefully chosen books,
cutlery and glasses, and big
sofas covered in loose, natural
fabric. Baboons saunter between
the tents during the day; in
the evenings, elephants and
giraffes come down to drink at
the waters edge; at night, hippos
lumber onto the riverbank to feed
on the sweet grass. It is a very
comfortable spot to just...be.
Know before you book: Two
of the best guides in Zambia,
Abraham Banda and Shaddy
Nkoma, work at Chinzombo.
(www.normancarrsafaris.com)
Doubles from US$745 ( 44,760),
inclusive of meals, drinks and
game-viewing activities
Singita Castleton,
South Afr ica
Why its on the list: As you
watch elephants and antelope
drink from a lake nearby, itll feel
like you are living in your own
home out in the great African
wilderness. Set in a 45,000-acre,
privately owned game reserve
(where leopard sightings are
frequent) adjacent to the Kruger

National Park, the property
consists of a main house, with
communal living spaces, and
six cottages around it. The look
and feel is chic, practical and
modernthink wicker furniture
and wallpaper printed with
vintage illustrations of local
ora and fauna.
tariff includes the use of a Land
Rover, bush walks, jeep safaris
and mountain-biking trips. (www.
singita.com) From ZAR72,000
( 4.18lakh); the property
accommodates up to eight guests
Vida Downtown Duba i,

UAE
Why its on the list: A short
walk from The Dubai Mall and
a world away from the noise
of downtown, this hotels
become a hotspot for the
citys young, swish set to wine
and dine. At La Serre Bistro
& Boulangerie (comprising a
relaxed boulangerie downstairs
and a more formal bistro above),
executive chef and owner Izu Ani
(of La Petite Maison fame) has
brought his signature Nioise

food to this stylish location. Ani
uses organic ingredients to create
food thats not only bursting
with avour but is also good for
you. The other restaurant at
the Vida that has had tongues
wagging (all in good taste) is the
Toko Dubai. Its a modern-day
izakaya, complete with mood
lighting, where dishes such as the
salmon-and-avocado rolls, beef
tataki and sweet eggplant with
miso come highly recommended.

The rooms have Nespresso
machines as well as
complimentary wi-. (www.
vida-hotels.com) Doubles
from AED 1,078 ( 17,630)
An antar a Sir Ban i

Yas Islan d Al Sahel
Villa Resort,
Abu Dhabi, UAE
Why its on the list: Imagine
living on a vast, grassy island
paradise, where thousands of
acacia, ghaf and frankincense
trees sprout and feed a robust
population of Arabian oryxes,
giraffes, ostriches and sand
gazelles (and, in turn, cheetahs
and hyenas). The 30-villa resort
on Sir Bani Yas Island, 8km off
the coast of Abu Dhabi, is inside
the Arabian Wildlife Park, at the
base of hills topped with salt
domes (crystalline deposits).
The park is the primary refuge
of the Arabian oryx, which, in
the 1970s, had been hunted
to near extinction; today, its
population is in the thousands.
You can safari in 4x4s or on
mountain bikes, and kayak
through lagoons and mangroves
frequented by amingoes and
sea turtles. Eat at the Savannah
Grill & Lounge, the resorts allday diner, which serves Western
classics and African dishes
(the biltong-crusted venison
carpaccio is superb).

Guests can go on riding trips;
Arabian thoroughbreds are
stabled on site. (http://al-sahel.
anantara.com) Doubles from
AED881 ( 14,410)
PHOTOGRAPH: DAVID CROOKES TEXT: PETER BROWNE; DIVIA THANI DASWANI;

PRIYANKA BHATTACHARYA DUTT; LISA GRAINGER; PRASAD RAMAMURTHY
AFRICA & THE

M I D D L E E A ST
The Oberoi, Duba i, UAE

Why its on the list: In a city obsessed with
superlatives, few hotels go from grand to greatand
thats due to service, or rather, the lack of it. But The
Oberoi, Dubai has a distinct edge here, given its high
standards, honed through years of accumulated
experience; its personal butlers are some of the best
in the business. The 252-room hotel tower is located
in the Burj Area and is only a few minutes from both
The Dubai Mall and Mall of the Emirates. With wellplanned rooms and suites, and signature design
elements, such as white marble oors and bursts of
red, it delivers on the groups commitment to height,
light and space. The ayurvedic spa takes bookings
around the clock and staff will offer you Evian mist
and cubes of watermelon after youve done laps in
the outdoor innity pool.
Know before you book: At Friday brunch, you can
sample food from all of the hotels three restaurants
Western, Indian and Arabicin between trips to the
dedicated Mojito station. (www.oberoihotels.com)
Doubles from AED1,220 ( 19,960)
T H E
HOT L I S T
2 0 1 4
AFRICA &
the middle
e a st
The Oberoi, Dubai. Opposite:

Segera Retreat, Kenya
137
Man dar in Or iental

Pu dong, Shangha i,
Chin a
Why its on the list: If you
want to hang out with
Shanghais smart set, then the
gold-trimmed Riviera Lounge
at the new 362-room Mandarin
Oriental is a good place to start.
At the weekend afternoon tea,
fashionable young things sip
Longjing with delicate pastries.
Joining them for dessert is
a good way to experience New
China chic in motion. Also
causing a real buzz around
town is Yong Ti Ting, the hotels
restaurant, where rising star
Tony Lu is busy reworking
regional cuisine with dishes
such as shredded Shanghainese
salted chicken with jellysh and
chilled drunken fresh abalone
with fox nut. The Mandarin
Oriental Group is famous for
its spas, and here, there are 13
private spa suites. Overlooking
the Huangpu River, amid the
sky-puncturing architectural
tapestry of the nancial district
of Pudong, the hotel is close
to several glitzy malls and the
Shanghai Tower, the worlds
second tallest.

Pay an extra RMB625, or
6,010, and book a room on
the Club Floor, which comes
with complimentary breakfast,
lunch buffet and evening
cocktails. (www.mandarin
oriental.com) Doubles from
RMB2,750 ( 26,450)
Mir a Moon,
Hong Kong, Chin a
Why its on the list: What
youve got here is a swish,
modish, Chinese-accented,
91-room hotel in one of Hong
Kongs edgiest districts. Sister
property to The Mira on the
other side of Victoria Harbour,
Mira Moon occupies a former
office block, with just four guest
rooms per oor. Hi-tech is not so
much embraced as given a bear
hug: room service and much
138
else is writ large on the bedside

iPad, Bluetooth allows you to
play your own music, and wi-
pops on the moment you open
your laptop. The gizmos segue
neatly with the bold interiors,
which include tulip-shaped
chairs and lanterns emblazoned
with characters from Chinese
mythology. Service is efficient
and even the room attendants
carry a business card. A Spanish
and a Chinese chef vie with
each other in the restaurant,
while coffee and Chinese tea
are served in the lobby (more
of a salon, really).

Mira Moons location in Wan
Chai grants harbour views
to the north and raw, urban
vistas at other points on the
compass. (www.miramoon
hotel.com) Doubles from
RMB1,090 ( 10,500)
Park Hyatt Siem Rea p,

Cambodi a
Why its on the list: Just
a 15-minute drive from the
UNESCO World Heritage Site
of Angkor Wat, this hotel has
reopened after a thorough

renovation (it was earlier called
Hotel de la Paix). The 108 guest
rooms are colourful and airy, and
the hotels Khmer-meets-artdeco aesthetic is on the money,
with its extensive use of local
handlooms, velvet-covered love
seats and towering bookshelves.
That theme extends to its
kitchens as well. The hotels
signature restaurant, The Dining
Room, serves lip-smacking
French, Khmer and Indochineinspired dishes (the pork with
ginger, palm sugar and spring
onions is excellent).
Know before you book: Avoid
the Park King rooms213,
313 and 311that overlook
the street. (http://siemreap.
park.hyatt.com) Doubles from
US$283 ( 16,970)
Regent Bal i,
In dones i a
Why its on the list: The
resorts location in Sanur, in
a region where few options
have existed in recent times,
makes it a welcome base from
which to explore the area.
As you enter the beachfront

Regent Bali, just off the main
Jalan Danau Tamblingan drag,
the staff welcomes you with
palms joined as you take in the
resorts remarkable interiors.
The soaring ceilings of the lobby
give it a theatrical feel. The 94
two-level suites are spacious,
with the bathrooms and walkin dressing rooms taking up at
least 30 percent of each suite.
The main restaurant, Layang
Layang, serves Indonesian
classics and pan-Asian dishes
(the chilli noodles are gratifyingly
tongue-tingling) and brandishes
a ridiculously long cocktail menu.
And Nyala Beach Club & Grill,
an alfresco affair with a view
of Lembongan Island, offers
vegetarian dishes such as a satay
of breaded tofu with mushrooms
and baby corn paired with a
creamy, spicy peanut sauce. The
facilities include a spa, tness
centre, boutique, library and
innity lap pool. The generous
space and unadulterated
hospitality will denitely have
guests coming back.

Its location, right on Sanurs
beachfront boardwalk, is perfect
for sunrise strolls. Unfortunately,
the small, 660ft beach is littered
with debris, despite the staffs
twice-daily clean-ups.
(www.regenthotels.com)
Point Yamu by COMO,

Phuket, Tha ilan d
Why its on the list: High above
Phang Nga Bay, COMOs property
has a near-panoramic vista of the
glittering waters below. But the
real beauty here is that there
isnt much to do beyond taking
a dip in the phenomenal innity
pool and luxuriating at the
excellent spa, followed by a nap.
The dcor, by noted designer
Paola Navone, is simple and
open, and the 106 modern, airy
rooms, suites and villas are
decorated in a palette of whites
and deep blues. The laundry
comes back impeccably folded in
beautiful rattan boxes. r p140
PHOTOGRAPHS: RANDY UMAR; CHRISTOPHER WISE TEXT: ALEXANDER LOBRANO;

SANJAY SURANA; EMMA LOVE; GARY BOWERMAN; ED PETERS; NANCY JO IACOI
ASI A
Amano i, Vinh Hy Bay, Vietn am

Why its on the list: Amanresorts rst hotel in
Vietnam is a two-hour drive, along a beautiful,
deserted winding coastal road, from the city of Nha
Trang. Forested mountains are barely interrupted
by the smattering of villas (36) designed by JeanMichel Gathy, with low oak beds and vast bathrooms,
private innity pools and red paper lanterns hanging
outside sliding doors. Take a buggy down to the beach
club and enjoy a breakfast of fresh fruit, homemade
mango jam and a bakery basket of goodies still warm
from the oven (pastry chef Arnaud previously worked
at the two-Michelin-starred restaurant, Taillevent, in
Paris)all while looking out onto a sweep of sand
and sea. Play tennis, sail a Hobie Cat or spend time
at the spa: its a revelation. And there are daybeds on
wooden platforms hidden among the trees, where you
can sip post-treatment ginger-and-lemongrass tea.
Know before you book: If youre looking for a base
to explore the region, this is not it. Instead, come
here to relax and go off the grid. (www.amanresorts.
com) Doubles from US$1,040 ( 62,370)
T H E
HOT L I S T
2 0 1 4
ASI A,
A U ST R A L I A &
New Zealand
Amanoi, Vietnam.
Opposite: Regent Bali
139
a g tree, is the hub of the

hotel, whether for a long, lazy
breakfast or a sociable evening
accompanied by craft beers,
artisanal gin, regional wines
and small plates of tasty dishes,
from beef sliders to sharing
plates of slow-roasted salt-bush
lamb shoulder.
Know before you book: For
compulsive Instagrammers,
the hotel has tied up with
a local fashion blogger to create
the Insta-Walka 45-minute
tour of the neighbourhood
and Darling Harbours
most Instagrammable spots.
(www.1888hotel.com.au)
Doubles from A$158 ( 8,840)
Its details like these that elevate

this property from just another
hotel with a view to something
more memorable.

Theres no beach nearby but
you can go, by longtail boat, to
one on a nearby island. (www.
comohotels.com) Doubles from
US$280 ( 16,800)
In i ala Beach House,

Phuket, Tha ilan d
Why its on the list: Eleven
Cheval Blanc Ran dhel i,

Maldives
Why its on the list: It stands
to reason that the latest resort
from luxury conglomerate
LVMH (owners of Louis Vuitton,
Cline, Dior etc) would set the
bar high. The white sands and
turquoise waters of the Noonu
Atoll, in the north-western
Maldives, serve as the backdrop
for 45 one- and two-bedroom
villas. Of these, some are set
140
NEW ZEALAND
Owner s Cottage at
Matakaur i, Queenstown
Why its on the list: In a
away from the beach, amid

coconut palms, while others
are built over the water. All are
supremely elegantdecked
out in travertine and cinnamon
wood, butter-soft leather and
French linenand completely
private, not to mention huge.
The smallest is nearly 2,600sq ft
and some come with a 40ft-long
innity pool as well as outdoor
and indoor baths large enough
for massage treatments (the
spa is by Guerlain). As looks go,
it doesnt get more chic than
this, but the whimsical touches
such as thoughtful little notes
from your butler left alongside
pitchers of fresh juiceare what
truly give this place its character.
The overwater restaurant,
Deelani, is a dream combination
of beach shack and high-style
seafood emporium.

If youre going on your
honeymoon, you can book
the hotels private seaplane
for a whirl around the atolls;
perhaps you could land
on an uninhabited one for
a private picnic. (www.cheval

blanc.com) Doubles from
US$1,560 ( 93,560)
A U ST R A L I A
1888 Hotel, Sydney
Why its on the list: Its rare to
nd somewhere that combines
good value with really smart
touches, a sense of place and
a distinctive soul. But thats
exactly what this 90-bedroom
Sydney hotel delivers. An
extensive makeover has breathed
new life into this 19th-century
former wool factory and store in
Pyrmont, while keeping its period
windows and exposed, wonky
brickwork (now a backdrop to
Minotti chairs, vintage furniture
and recycled pieces). The desks
are made from wood salvaged
from the original building. Rooms
vary in size from tiny (161sq ft) to
generous (516sq ft). Some only
have internal views (overlooking
the atrium), but all have iPads,
well-stocked fridges and
MicroCloud bed-top servers.
The atrium, complete with
spectacular location overlooking

Lake Wakatipu, just minutes
from South Islands adventure
capital of Queenstown, this has
to be the ultimate New Zealand
escape. Built on the elevated
grounds of Matakauri Lodge, this
standalone 5,000sq-ft cottage
is the latest addition to the
current stay optionsa mix of
rooms and suites. The cottage,
which can accommodate a
maximum of eight, is available
in congurations of two or four
generous bedrooms, each with
a sitting room and bathroom.
Its the little things that give it a
sense of place: a silver rabbit rug,
reindeer skin and blankets made
by the artisans who created
the costumes for The Lord of
the Rings. You can absorb the
cinematic views from the hot tub
on the front balcony, while the
adjacent lakeside terrace is the
best spot for sundowners.
Know before you book: You
can help yourself to drinks
from the bar or cellar, and the
chef can cook for you at your
cottages barbecue and kitchen.
(www.matakaurilodge.com)
From 9,310 ( 4.84 lakh) per
night for four guests, half board
PHOTOGRAPH: NOAH SHELDON TEXT: TRICIA WELSH;

ADRIAANE PIELOU; MARY LUSSIANA; MARIA SHOLLENBARGER
brilliant designers worked on

the three three-bedroom villas
and a penthouse at Iniala, and
the results are eye-popping.
Each room is different, with
elements such as a hanging bed,
an undulating wicker ceiling,
a china-studded wall and a
dazzling white-marble bathroom.
Add to this a restaurant overseen
by Spanish maestro Eneko Atxa,
a sensational pastry chef and
cool sommelier, and you wont
want to share Iniala with anyone
else. Each villa has a private spa,
and at the end of the dayonce
you have nally rolled off the
massage bedwander over
to the 22-seat private cinema
(all shag-pile and air-con) or
the games room, with its Thai
boxing ring (plus instructor) and
Swarovski-studded pool table,
after depositing the children in
their own quarters, which come
with a fort and a tree house.
Know before you book: Rates
include the use of a driver, butler,
chef, spa therapist, housekeeper,
airport transfer both ways and
VIP immigration service at
the airport. (www.iniala.com)
THE Temple Hotel,

Be ijing, Chin a
Why its on the list: Between its late-17th-century
event spaces, mid-18th-century monks quarters
and suites fashioned out of a 1970s TV factory, The
Temple Hotel is the custodian of more than 600
years of Chinese history. The carefully restored
Zhizhusi, or Temple of Wisdom, once home to royal
Buddhist gurus and now part of the hotels 36,000sqft cultural space, contains Qing-era murals with
Sanskrit lettering on them. The eight rooms and
suites, on the contrary, are very contemporary, with
walk-in showers, complimentary minibars and wi-.
Similarly, the dcor is a mix of the traditional and
contemporary, including special lighting by German
designer Ingo Maurer. And the food is distinctly
French, with a touch of the Sino. In-room breakfast,
for instance, is served bento-box-style. Theres also
an art gallery on site, which, besides its permanent
collection of Chinese art, also showcases works by
local artists.
Know before you book: On Sunday evenings, dont
miss the sunset at Gathered Sky, an installation by
American artist James Turrell. (www.thetemplehotel.
com) Doubles from RMB2,3,00 ( 22,130)
T H E
HOT L I S T
2 0 1 4
ASI A,
A U ST R A L I A &
New Zealand
The Temple Hotel, Beijing.

Opposite: 1888 Hotel, Sydney
141
I N DI A
with spectacular views of the city

on one side and Rock Heights
Park on the other. Standard
facilities include iPod docks,
walk-in wardrobes, standalone
bathtubs and electronic window
blinds. But its the stellar service
that will have you returning.
10th-oor innity pool is a great
spot for a sundowner. (www.
tridenthotels.com) Doubles
from 7,900
Van a, Mals i Estate,

uttar akhan d
Why its on the list: Set amid
The LaLit Chan digarh,

chan digarh
Why its on the list: At the
junction of a reserve forest, a
mall and an IT Park, it occupies
a sweet spot for a business
hotel. Its 179 rooms and public
spaces are airy. The pan-Asian
restaurant, OKO, works well
as a space to do some mealtime networking, whereas the
view from the LaLiTs Indian
restaurant, Baluchi, is perfect for
a quiet lunch on your own. Built
on level with the roof of the forest
reserve, it has the feel of a tree
house, making it easy to forget
that youre in one of Indias
fastest-growing cities.
Know before you book: Evennumbered rooms offer forest and
mountain views. (www.thelalit.
com) Doubles from 7,000
Hyatt Regency
Gurgaon, Haryan a
Why its on the list: Its location
has made it hugely popular for
conferences and events. Nearly
half of the 40,000sq-ft banqueting
space (the largest in the city) is
given to the Regency Ballroom,
which can accommodate up to
3,000 guests at a time. Of the
451 rooms (the highest count
in the city), 200 offer twin beds,
ensuring most of your delegates
142
JW Marr iott hotel

Bengaluru, karn ataka
Why its on the list: Located
can be accommodated at the

same price point.
superb LAVANA restaurant
serves authentic Awadhi fare.
(http://gurgaon.regency.hyatt.
JW Marr iott Hotel

New Delhi Aerocity,
New Delhi
Why its on the list: Its right
next to Delhi airport, a short drive
from Gurgaon and South Delhi,
and a great base for the business
traveller. You can start with
networking cocktails and canaps
at K3, which serves Tuscan, Indian
and Cantonese, and move to the
Japanese restaurant, Akira Back,
for dinner. End the evening at Oval
Bar, where movable panels create
private spaces where you can seal
the deal over Cognac and caviar.
Know before you book: Quan
Spa offers therapies such as
the Instant Eye Repair to reduce
puffiness. (www.marriott.com)
Doubles from 6,750
JAWA I Leopar d Camp,

Ra jasthan
Why its on the list: Set in
the Aravali Hills, a three-hour
drive from Udaipur, this camp
gives you access to an elusive
animalthe leopard. Around
50 of them are said to roam
the hills around the camp.
Spend your days on safari with
knowledgeable guides and

return to a contemporary space
where leather is combined with
local stone and stainless-steel
ttings to make a cosy home.

The camp has its own organic
garden. (www.sujanluxury.com)
Doubles from 40,000
Abode, Mumba i,
mahar ashtr a
Why its on the list: Housed
in a 1910 building, this supercool 20-room boutique offers
an affordable stay in South
Mumbai. Its interiors include art
deco furniture, vintage switches,
graphic custom-made oor tiles
and standalone bathtubs. Wi-
is included in your tariff and
breakfast is served until noon
to feed late risers. A spa, a shop
stocking products sourced from
craftspeople across the country
and an exercise space complete
the package.
Basic and Simple rooms are tiny.
(http://abodeboutiquehotels.
Tr ident Hyder aba d,

an dhr a pr a desh
Why its on the list: This 323room business hotel, part of the
commercial township of HITEC
City, is exceptional. Rooms (the
smallest of which are 440sq ft)
feature oor-to-ceiling windows
between Cubbon Park and UB

City, this hotel makes the most of
the citys good weather. Four of
its ve restaurants and bars offer
alfresco seating. The 297 rooms
(97 with balconies) have either
park or UB City views. Spice
Terrace, the hotels poolside
restaurant, is a buzzing evening
venue, while guests seeking
peace and quiet can head to Bar
Uno, which serves wines, single
malts and classic cocktails.
Know before you book: For the
best views, book the Executive
or Cubbon suites on oors eight
and above. (www.marriott.com)
Doubles from 10,350
The Ritz Carlton,

Bengaluru, karn ataka
Why its on the list: Indias rst
Ritz-Carlton is situated in the
citys business and entertainment
district and displays more than
1,500 works of art. In the rooms,
youll nd Nespresso machines,
400-thread-count Frette linen
and bathroom products by
Asprey London. Lantern, one
of the hotels seven restaurants
and bars, serves dim sum from
Hong Kong-style carts. But the
soon-to-launch rooftop bar,
Bang, promises to, literally, be the
hotels high point.

Reserve a table at The Market
with Anupam Banerjee, who
was head chef at the Michelinstarred Rasoi by Vineet at
Mandarin Oriental, Geneva.
(www.ritzcarlton.com) Doubles
from 14,210
TEXT: PRASAD RAMAMURTHY; SMRITI LAMECH; ANUSHKA PATODIA; KANCHAN

WADHWA; HIMALI SOIN; DIVIA THANI DASWANI, PHOTOGRAPH: ANSHUMAN SEN
mango and litchi orchards,

and surrounded by a sal forest,
the propertys beating heart
is its wellness retreat, which
includes an ayurvedic centre,
a Chinese wellness section,
a ritual spa, four yoga and
meditation pavilions, more
than 50 treatment rooms and
a state-of-the-art gymnasium.
Specialists prescribe treatments
to suit each guest. And the two
restaurants on site prove you
can eat well and be healthy.
Know before you book: Vana
has a minimum-three-night-stay
policy. (www.vanaretreats.com)
Doubles from 50,000
Dus it Devar an a, new Delhi

Why its on the list: Despite being a mere 10-minute
drive from the international airport, this urban retreat
is designed to keep out the cacophony of the capital
city, with its 25ft-high walls, layer of more than
a thousand trees and thoughtfully laid-out water bodies
that run the breadth of the hotels grounds. All 50 of
the hotels rooms come with 24-hour butler service,
free wi- and iPads that control everything, from the
TV to the lighting. The designers have certainly pushed
the envelope: many rooms feature a bathtub directly
adjacent to the couch and the washbasins appear more
like oversized ower vases. The retreats luxury quotient
will soon receive an additional boost, when the Michelinstarred KAI Mayfair opens an outpost here. Currently,
the hotels sole restaurant has both indoor and
outdoor seating, and serves world cuisine that includes
specialities from the Dusits home country, Thailand,
as well as from Japan and Europe.
Know before you book: All 11 Devarana Pool Rooms
open out on to a temperature-controlled swimming pool,
which, in places, extends right up to the patios, so you can
soak in a semi-private patch of pool, while enjoying an
evening drink. (www.dusit.com) Doubles from 12,360
T H E
HOT L I S T
2 0 1 4
I N DI A
Dusit Devarana, New Delhi.

Opposite: The Ritz-Carlton, Bengaluru
143
A view of Sklafell,
Icelands famous ski resort
144
IN ICELAND
Fatima Bhutto chases the aurora borealis through a land of
magic, stars, light and love. Photographs by James Bedford
145
celand is, as all the tourist

ads promise, a country of
surprises. Once home to the
Vikings, fearsome plunderers,
it now has no army. According
to the 2012 Global Peace
Index, its officially the most peaceful
country in the world. More than half
the population believes in elves (and
even more believe in fairiesdont
laugh, by the end of the trip, I did, too).
Its also home to no less than 30 active
volcanoes and one of the worlds largest
ice caps, behind only Antarctica and
Greenland. In the summer, Iceland is lit
by White Nights24-hour brightness.
In the winter, youre lucky if you get
four hours of daylight. But this is
February, the season of the changing of
the light. We have just driven across an
Fatima Bhutto
wearing a coat by
Eggert Jhansson
146
almost lunar landscapemiles of pure

white snow so unspoiled it shimmers
under the sunen route to the Golden
Circle, which includes the Thingvellir
Lake, the Geysir hot water spring and
the Gullfoss waterfall. Weve decided
to take a shortcut over the snowcapped mountains. This seems like a
terrific idea but within a few moments
of driving up a slippery white slope,
our jeep loses control. It is then that
I discover the most remarkable thing
about Icelandits people. They
are congenitally, enthusiastically,
heart-warmingly positive. As our jeep
careens backwards down the slope
at a frightening speed, Arnar Olaffson,
our charming and talented guide, smiles
and says, Ah well, well use our Plan
B then. Presumably, this includes not
dying, but Arnar is so cheerful about

our reverse drop down the mountain,
I cant help but feel a little excited, too.
Halfway between North America
and Europe, Iceland was born of
underwater volcanic eruptions some 20
million years ago. This makes it one of
the youngest land masses in Europe
and without a doubt, the coolest. (The
entire country has just over three lakh
peopleand not a single McDonalds
or Starbucks.) Its my first day. I am
wearing three layers of trousersfour,
if you count my long socksand
five layers of sweaters and shirts, not
including two down jackets. The air
smells like sulphur; its the geothermal
springs and geysers, Arnar says. Arnar,
whom I call Arrrrrnrrr for most of the
trip, trying unsuccessfully to sound like
a local, runs his own bespoke travel
agency catering to Indian tourists, and
has been doing tours of Iceland for the
past three years. Before that, he was
in a band (Leaves, which supported
Coldplay and Travis), composed film
scores and worked in graphic design.
He is now working on a solo album.
We are driving out of Reykjavk.
Hafravatn Lake is iced over; children
skate and play hockey over small
patches. Motorbikes and big American
jeeps carry locals to work across the
frozen water. The sky is beautiful,
shaded behind the mountains into
a bright turquoise, but appears a
subtle golden over the snow. We pass
Thingvellir Lake, deep enough to
scuba-dive in during the summer, and
spend the afternoon among nature.
There is Gullfoss, an enormous waterfall
made up of carpets of cracked ice and
gushing water that cascades down
a rocky ravine. There is Geysirthe
original; all other hot water springs
take their names from this one right
herewhere the water shoots up every
10 minutes, nature at its most reliable.
There is Hellisheii, with hot water
buried deep underground, and visible
only through enormous plumes of
smoke that swirl into the sky. There
is enough energy under this earth to
fuel Europe.
But we see nature most clearly
through God, through the rituals of the
earth and the land. And, though the
days of worshipping the sun and the r
Icelandic horses at
Laxnes Horse Farm
147
gods of the elements were technically

hundreds of years ago, heathenism is
undergoing a revival in Iceland.
It is heathen, like from the heath,
from nature, high priest Jormundur
Ingi tells me as we stand in the middle
of an icy forest. Wearing a tan Burberry
coat and walking briskly into the forest,
clutching a cane with a silver handle,
Jormundur, who studied Sanskrit for
three years, insists we go deeper into
the woods. Its better to be closer
to the trees, he explains as we stop on
a spot of soil littered with fallen acorns.
It is holy because we have been using
it for our ceremonies, but in actuality,
all groves in nature are holy.
Everything in Iceland has a sense
of the mystical, of the hallowed. We
Diners at Vi Tjrnina,
a ne-dining restaurant
148
are here at this time of year to follow

the Northern Lights, aurora borealis.
They are particles of dust from the sun
that take 40 hours to reach Earth. The
Inuit, a tribe indigenous to the Arctic
region, believed the green lights that
haunted the night sky were the spirits
of the dead. Others thought they were
the wandering souls of unmarried
women. But they appear, we are
promised, late at night, in the darker
parts of the country where city lights
do not pollute the sky. One night passes.
We dont see them. A friend spends four
hours on a bus filled with Australian
teenagers in the hope of spotting the
lights, but comes back at 1am with
nothing more than a headache. The
second night goes, there is only a hint
an apparitionbut still it evades us.
Meanwhile, I am more sporting

than I have ever been in my life. I go
dog-sledding and horseback riding
in -7 degrees Celsius. Icelandic horses
are small, Shetland pony-sized, and
Arnar promises that riding one will be
like galloping atop a pillow (Icelandic
horses are unique in that they have
their own movement: two gaits
more than other breeds). I arrive for
dog-sledding and am introduced to
my six huskies and Greenland dogs
by Sami, who happens to be wearing
only a t-shirt. Are you crazy? I ask
him, politely. This is hot weather! he
says. I point out that its -7. Yes, Sami
smiles, Im used to -25. I make a note
to stop pointing out the weather to
locals. Because naturally, the moment
you do that, they suggest you go for
a swim. Outside.
Blue Lagoon is situated over
volcanic earth, nestled among black
lava rocks and dark-green moss. It
became famous for the healing qualities
of its geothermal water, rich with
silica mud and green algae. The water
is a vivid blue so bright it resembles
something out of a cartoon. I resist
the temptation to ask someone the
temperature as I swim in the warm
water. Around me, the heat from the
lagoon rises up into the air and the
water looks milkier as the white silica
mud reflects the light around us. For
a moment, I forget about the cold and
wonder what the lagoon must look like
in the summer, when you can soak in
the water until midnight.
Dont let the Arctic tundra excursions
fool you; Iceland is no remote island.
It is the epicentre of design, art, music
and cuisine.
Walk down Sklavrustgur, one
of Reykjavks central streets and pay
a visit to Eggert Jhannsson. Eggert
began his career as a furrier on Bond
Street in the 1980s and still works
with Savile Row great, Anderson &
Sheppard, as well as running his own
local business. Tall and looking every
bit a Viking with his white-blond hair,
Eggert is a master craftsman. He opens
the door to his boutique, just up the
road from Reykjavks prison, in one
of his famous surf n turf gilets
made from lamb and salmon skin.
The prison, by the way, is just next r
Clockwise from top left: An artwork

at SPARK DESIGN SPACE; Lake Tjrnin;
Mayor Jn Gnarr in front of Banksys
stencil The Flower Chucker; inside
the 101 Hotel; the Harpa concert
hall and conference centre; the
exterior of Htel Borg
149
Of course there is magic in a place where the sun travels to meet the
The Northern Lights

outside Reykjavk
150
earth and where the sky just ran towards me. How can there not be?
151
to a smart bookstore, a stones throw

from the famous Kaffibarinn (a bar
part-owned by Blurs Damon Albarn).
Only a city like Reykjavk would put
its prison in the trendiest part of town.
Only a city like Reykjavk would have
a grand total of 14 prisoners.
We are much closer to nature here,
we understand nature in a different
way, explains Eggert, who also
happens to be a guitarist in the band,
Pieces of String. Nothing goes to waste,
nothing is abandoned, as last seasons.
Icelanders live by the land. It sustains
them completely and they imbibe
the philosophy of settlers pastwhat
doesnt nourish them inspires them.
Art is boundless here. The old
fish-packing district of Grandi is now
home to small artist studios and design
A traditional Icelandic
house at rbjarsafn
152
ateliers. Steinnun Thorarinsdottir,

an elegant sculptor with shoulderlength brown hair, looks amused
when I ask her how one explains
Icelands booming art scene against its
geographic isolation. Whats isolated
today? Thorarinsdottirs life-sized
bodies, cast in bronze, concrete and
glass, surround Reykjavk. Brkur
Arnarson, the owner of the edgy
conceptual art gallery i8, agrees:
Borders are not of interest to us.
The art worlds opening up at all ends;
those interested are going everywhere
and seeing everything. We are a part of
that, too. We love music and art and
stories because we are so spiritual,
Arnar explains. This is a holy country
in a wayits the energy, the heat, the
electricity in the ground, the people
And the food Oh the food! Everyone

in Iceland might be a musician, but
youd be forgiven for thinking they
were also all haute-cuisine chefs.
Jakob Magnsson (there are no
last names in Icelandall children
take their fathers name and affix
either -sson or -dottir to the end), who
produced singer Bjrks first demos
when she was 11, takes us to The East
India Company (locally known as
Austur-Indafjlagi ), This is Yoko
Onos favourite Indian restaurant,
he says. Chandrika Gunnarsson,
the owner, imports the spices from
Coorg and pairs them with the finest
Icelandic seafood. Lobster Kalimirchi
and Hariyali Salmon marinated in
cashew paste, green chillies and cumin
are two longstanding favourites. Gl,
the brainchild of Solla Eiriksdottir
and her partner, Elli, pioneers of the
Icelandic vegetarian food movement,
fuses its cuisine with smart Icelandic
design. Its food with love, Solla says,
explaining the queues that go all the
way down the stairs the day we have
lunch. Eat at Grillmarka urinn, where
the bread is served with black lava salt,
and see if you can ever bother with
another restaurant again.
At night, from my window at
Reykjavks hip 101 Hotel, the Harpa,
a concert hall and conference centre,
comes to life and green and blue lights
flicker across the modern complex. For
a moment, I think its the Northern
Lights. But its just a trick of the eye.
They say Iceland is a small country,
but it doesnt feel like it. Jn Gnarr is
a former comedian, who, fed up with
the hopelessness of politics, founded
his own partyThe Best Partyand
was elected Reykjavks most popular
mayor. He leads the Reykjavk gay
pride parade every year, in drag, no less.
His advisor on human rights issues
a subject very close to his heart
is a poet. Jn (who is the only Icelander
Ive met thus far who isnt in a band)
is enormously built, like a boxer, and
sports two tattoos on his forearms. One
is the emblem of Reykjavk and the
other, the logo of a British punk band.
Behind his desk hangs Banksys famous
Flower Chucker stencil of a protester
throwing a bouquet of flowers, a gift
from the elusive graffitist himself. r
Iceland is heathen, like from the heath, from

nature - JORMUNDUR INGI
High priest
Jormundur Ingi
153
Works by Mahatma Gandhi and a box

set of the TV show The Wire, are on his
bookshelf. I ask him how he explains
the allure of this strange town, beautiful
and stark, big and small, isolated and
pulsing with energy. Reykjavk has
always been a bit like the Shire in
The Lord of the Rings Jn says. Its
a cosy little place, a bit far away, and
very innocent. For a moment, he
considers the idea. Its probably one
of the last innocent places on earth
Only in Iceland could someone
writing for a travel magazine meet
a Mayor and the President in the
same afternoon. Only a people this
friendly and accessible would be so
kind to strangers.
President lafur Ragnar Grmsson
has long held a special bond with India
and with its people. We speak for some
time about his visits to India before we

come to Iceland and how a foreigner
should approach this unusual country.
The most overwhelming experience
is how to be alone in a city, in nature,
President Grmsson says of visitors
coming to Iceland from afar. How to
experience the forces of nature and
society without multitudes of people
is a mental shift. It changes your
humanity. Its fundamental. What
is also an important experience is
that Icelandic society is based on
trust. Everyone who comes here
is a friend.
Theres no locked gate, no wall
and no security cordon around the
Presidents official residence. When
we leave, he sees us to the door.
It is cold, -10 degrees. I continue
to collect weather reports silently.
cntraveller.in
The healing geothermal

waters of the Blue
Lagoon
154
For more
stunning
images of
Iceland
I have given up the hunt for the

Northern Lights. But Arnar, ever
positive Arnar, persists. The forecast
is good, he promises. Tonight we meet
aurora borealis.
I am sceptical, but we drive out of
Reykjavk at 11pm. On our way out of
the city, there is a faint green band that
glows over the frozen Tjrnin Lake;
for a moment it looks like a Day-Glo
rainbow in the night sky. But then its
gone. Its too bright here, so we drive;
we have to leave the city.
Half an hour later, theres nothing,
not even a wisp. So we drive further,
but again, nothing.
It is not to be. Arnar promises
well try tomorrow again, but as
we are heading back to Reykjavk,
feeling deflated, we spot it. Arnar
stops the car and we get out. It is totally
silent, we can hear each other breathe.
There is not another sound. Great
tornadoes of smoke, of hot air, rise up
from the earth. And then we see them.
Bright-green lights shooting across the
sky, jagged lines like a heart beating
on an electrocardiogram. Strands of
fluorescent green threaded through the
black night. They are extraordinary.
Wait, Arnar whispers, theyll
dance now.
But I dont care if they dance. I
just want to stare at them. They are
magnificent, eerie, overwhelming.
And then suddenly, one part of the
lights, as expansive as the sky, starts
shifting. It moves, jerking up into the
night and then back down towards
the ground. Its dancing.
It seems as though theyre
running towards you, not moving in
the direction of anyone else. They are
reaching out for you, only you. The
colours shift to purple and gold and
red, like only a hologram can. To
the eye, the lights are still green.
Did you see? Arnar asks. Did
you see them dance?
I saw them. I saw it all. I believe
in magic, in the fairies, in the elves.
Because of course its true. Of course
there is magic in a place where the
sun travels to meet the earth and
where the sky just ran towards me.
How can there not be?
A trip similar to the writers can be
booked through Thomas Cook India
(www.thomascook.in)
Clockwise from top left: Arnar driving

near a hot spring; a husky; a design by
Steinnun Thorarinsdottir; a vegetarian
dish at Gl; the view from Perlan;
Icelands president, lafur Ragnar
Grmsson, in his office
155
The most overwhelming human experience is how to be alone
Dog-sledding
in Sklafell
156
in a city, in nature. It changes your humanity - PRESIDENT GRMSSON
157
NEED TO KNOW: ICELAND

Fly to London with
British Airways (www.
britishairways.com) or
Virgin Atlantic (www.
virgin-atlantic.com) from
New Delhi or Mumbai.
From there, y to Keavk
International Airport
with Iceland Air (www.
icelandair.com). Indian
passport-holders can
apply for a Schengen
Visa from the Embassy of
Denmark (www.iceland.
is) in New Delhi, Chennai
or Mumbai, which handles
visa applications on
behalf of the government
of Iceland. Visas take up
to 15 working days to
process and cost 4,960.
REYKJAVK
Doubles from
ISK43,395 ( 23,275)
Reykjavik Hostel
Village
This family-run hostel
is steps away from the
citys main shopping
strip, Laugavegur. (www.
hostelvillage.is) Doubles
from ISK14,465 ( 7,760)
GOOD VALUE
Gl
This pioneer in Icelandic
vegetarian food often
has lines of waiting
patrons snaking out
of the front door.
(www.glo.is)
Austur-Indafjlagi
(East-India Company)
roasted shallots and

capers and baked, salted
cod with dill-avoured
potatoes. (www.
vidtjornina.is)
Make Icelands capital

city your base and set out
on day trips nearby.
Using Icelandic
ingredients and Indian
spices, this restaurant
gives desi food a twist.
(http://austurindia.is)
101 Hotel
Grillmarkaurinn
Lake Tjrnin
This chic, design-focused

property in the heart of
Reykjavk showcases
works by Icelandic
artists. (www.101hotel.is)
Doubles from ISK53,010
( 28,120)
This stylish ne-dining

destination serves
Scandinavian cuisine
using ingredients sourced
from local farmers. (www.
grillmarkadurinn.is)
Visit this beautiful lake in

the city centre, where you
can feed the birds and jog
along the shore.
Radisson Blu Saga

Hotel, Reykjavk
Head here for some

of the best food in the
city, such as cream
of lobster with grilled
lobster tails and scallops
with cucumber, bacon,
date pure and dill
mayonnaise. (http://
perlan.is)
The 209-room business

hotel is a 10-minute
walk from the city centre
and comes with a spa
and restaurants that
serve Icelandic cuisine.
(www.radissonblu.com)
Doubles from ISK30,952
( 16,600)
Htel Borg
This elegant art deco
hotel sits on Austurvllur
square, across from the
Icelandic parliament. The
property was recently
refurbished and a 43room wing added to
the older 56 rooms.
(http://en.hotelborg.is)
158
Perlan
Kaffibarinn
The Golden Circle

The highlights of this
circuit include the 105ft
Gullfoss waterfall (formed
by a glacial melt), Geysir
(which gave the natural
phenomenon of hot
water spouting from
the earth its name)
and Thingvellir National
Park, where Icelands
rst parliament met
in AD 930.
Reykjavks most
popular watering hole
offers space to shake
a leg with local hipsters
and the citys arty set.
(www.facebook.com/
kaffibarinn)
Fissure-snorkelling
Vi Tjrnina Seafood
Restaurant
The water and mud at

this luxurious geothermal
spa, a 45-minute drive
from the Reykjavk
This excellent seafood

joint offers cod roe with
Try ssure-snorkelling
and diving in Lake Silfra
in Thingvellir National
Park, and hiking up
Slheimajkull Glacier.
Blue Lagoon
city centre, are known

for their therapeutic
properties. (www.
bluelagoon.com)
exhibits Reykjavks
fascinating architecture
and history. (www.
minjasafnreykjavikur.is)
Laxnes Horse Farm

Enjoy a comfortable ride
on an Icelandic horse
at this beautiful farm.
(www.laxnes.is)
Dog-sledding
Get your adrenaline
x by dog-sledding
and snowmobiling on
Langjkull, Icelands
second-largest glacier,
or at Sklafell ski resort.
Whale-watching
If you would rather take
it easy, watch these
stunning giants off
Reykjavks coast.
SPARK DESIGN SPACE

This gallery showcases
cool, contemporary
design projects. (www.
sparkdesignspace.com)
Harpa
Enjoy a musical evening
at one of the worlds
most beautiful concert
halls. (www.harpa.is)
rbjarsafn (rbr
Open Air Museum)
Once an established
farm, today this museum
i8
This cool art space sells
and displays conceptual
works by Icelandic artists.
(http://i8.is)
Eggert Jhannsson
Visit the atelier and store
of this furrier who creates
garments for renowned
Savile Row bespoke tailor
Anderson & Sheppard.
(www.furrier.is)
STEiNUNN
It displays a stylish
fashion collection by
Steinunn Sigurardttir,
inspired by the land in
which she was raised.
(www.steinunn.com)
WHEN TO GO
The best time to
view the Northern Lights
is between December
and February, though
temperatures hover in
the negative. But between
June and August, the sun
stays up late into the night
and temperatures are far
more comfortable.
MAP: HANNAH GEORGE
GETTING THERE
Water shooting
up at Geysir
159
Europes
From a party hotspot in Spain to a foodies' heaven in France,
Santorini, Greece
BEST FOR ROMANTICS
This is perhaps the most famous Greek islandand with good

reason. With its black-sand beaches, sheer cliffs and enormous,
seawater-lled caldera (created by a volcanic eruption in
about 1630 BC), it is easily among the most spectacular of the
Cyclades Islands. Its charming capital, Fira, hugs the jagged,
plunging cliff-edge of the caldera. A cable car glides from
the old port (Skala Pier) up to the town, past solidied lava
ows and impressive rock formations. And the pretty village
of Oia, a cluster of dazzling, whitewashed, Cycladic-style
houses and domed churches, is worth a snoop, too. Here, feast
on the fresh catch of the day at 1800 (www.oia-1800.com).
Getting there: Fly to Athens with Turkish Airlines (www.turkish
airlines.com. Stopover in Istanbul) from Mumbai or New Delhi,
and then on to Santorini with Aegean Air (www.aegeanair.com).
CNT tip: Stay at Perivolas in Oia, a minimalist, tranquil
hideaway with an innity pool that overlooks the caldera.
(www.perivolas.gr) Doubles from 540 ( 44,910)
160
best islands
PHOTOGRAPH: JESSICA SAMPLE
Laura Grith-Jones picks the isles you simply must visit this summer
The innity pool at

Perivolas in Oia, on Santorini
161
Capri, Italy
Sardinia, Italy
This ruggedly beautiful island in the

Tyrrhenian Sea ticks every boxits romantic,
fun for the whole family and a foodies'
paradise. You can take a chairlift up Monte
Solaro for panoramic views of the Gulf of
Naples, rent a private speedboat to check
out nearby islands or go sea-kayaking to work
off those incredible mealstry the traditional
Torta Caprese, a rich chocolate-almond
cake, and the classic Insalata Caprese.
Getting there: Fly to Naples with Turkish
Airlines (www.turkishairlines.com. Stopover
in Istanbul) from Mumbai or New Delhi. Then
get the hydrofoil or the fast ferry to Capri.
CNT tip: Visit the Grotta Azzurra (Blue Grotto)
and drift in a magnicent cave lled with
sapphire seawater. Get there in the afternoon
to miss the crowds, and have lunch before at
the nearby Il Riccio (www.capripalace.com).
This Mediterranean island is known for its whitesand beaches and hillside getaways, but there
is fascinating history here, toofrom BronzeAge and Roman settlements to Romanesque
churches. Hire a speedboat and go snorkelling
in the nearby Maddalena Islands Marine Park,
where the sand is pink and the water, incredibly
clear. If the glitz and glamour of Costa Smeralda,
in the north, isn't your scene, stay inland at the
idyllic Hotel Su Gologone (www.sugologone.it;
doubles from 260 or 21,620).
Getting there: Fly to Rome with Lufthansa
(www.lufthansa.com. Stopover in Munich)
from Mumbai or New Delhi. From there, y
to Cagliari or take the overnight ferry.
CNT tip: Martin Randall Travel organises
cultural holidays led by art historian Dr RT
Cobianchi. The next one is from 29 September
to 7 October. (www.martinrandall.com)
Sea-kayaking on Capri.
Opposite: Hotel Su
Gologone on Sardinia
162
BEST FOR CULTURE VULTURES
PHOTOGRAPHS: JULIEN CAPMEIL; STEFANO SCAT
BEST FOR FAMILIES
163
164
PHOTOGRAPH: 4CORNERS
The Isle of Skye

in summer
Isle of Skye, Scotland

BEST FOR WILDLIFE FANATICS
One of the most picturesque places in the UK, this Scottish

idyll is a wild, remote land of heather-coated moors, vast lochs,
tumbling rivers, towering cliffs and secret beaches. Skye
certainly has unpredictable weather, with highs of 13 degrees
Celsius in July, its hottest month. But if the sun is on your side,
youll nd yourself under a gigantic blue sky, breathing in the
freshest air imaginable. Trek in the rugged Cuillin mountains,
looking out for red deer and sea eagles along the way; climb to
the top of The Old Man of Storr peak; or go sailing, sea-kayaking
or whale-watchingyou may be lucky enough to spot minke
whales, seals, bottlenose dolphins and basking sharks. You can
even take off in a seaplane for a birds-eye view of the island,
after which you might need a stiff drink from one of Skye's
famous breweries. If (or when) the clouds close in, explore the
island's majestic castles, deserted ruins and cosy pubs.
Getting there: Fly to London with British Airways (www.
britishairways.com) from Mumbai or New Delhi. From there,
y to Inverness with Flybe (www.ybe.com), rent a car with
Europcar (www.europcar.com) and then enjoy the drive to Skye.
CNT tip: Stay at Kinloch Lodge, owned by food writer Clare
MacDonald. It has a Michelin-starred restaurant and a cookery
course. (www.kinloch-lodge.co.uk) Doubles from 180 ( 18,140)
165
Hvar, Croatia
Ibiza, Spain
The sunniest Croatian isle is

as fascinating as it is beautiful.
Tvrdalj, a 16th-century fortress,
towers over Hvar Town, with
resplendent views of the
Adriatic Sea. There's also a
majestic cathedral and a 15thcentury Franciscan monastery.
The medieval town of Vrboska
(little Venice) is home to lovely
heritage buildings. Hvar is also
lush with lavender elds, olive
groves and vineyards. Stop
at the taverns and try local
produce such as gs, Dalmatian
prosciutto and olives.
Getting there: Fly to Split with
Lufthansa (www.lufthansa.
com. Stopover in Munich) from
Mumbai or New Delhi. From
there, take a catamaran to Hvar.
CNT tip: If you've had enough
history for one holiday, you can
chill on a double-bed sun-lounger
at CarpeDiem Beach Club.
(www.carpe-diem-beach.com)
Ibiza is known the world over as

the party animals playground,
with some seriously big nights
to be had at its most iconic
super-club, Amnesia Ibiza,
which can house a colossal
5,000 people. But nightlife isnt
this Balearic islands only draw.
In between the undoubtedly
epic parties, explore the
gorgeous beaches with warm
waters, great restaurants and
bars, and buzzing towns with
pretty, palm-tree-lined avenues,
such as Ibiza Old Town.
How to get there: Fly to Ibiza
with British Airways (www.
britishairways.com. Stopover
in London) from Mumbai or
New Delhi.
CNT tip: Book a private villa in
a secluded setting through Hip
Holidays, so you have a haven
to escape to when you've had
one Hierbas too many. (www.
hipholidaysibiza.com)
166
BEST FOR PARTY ANIMALS
PHOTOGRAPHS: JULIEN CAPMEIL; MICHELE FALZONE/CORBIS
BEST FOR HISTORY BUFFS
The harbour promenade in Ibiza

Old Town. Opposite, clockwise from
top left: Sunbathers at CarpeDiem
Beach Club on Hvar; a couple
walking through Hvar Town; diving
into the water by CarpeDiem
167
Houses on the hillside in

Dei. Opposite: La Foradada
point near the village
168
Mallorca, Spain
BEST FOR CHILL-SEEKERS
PHOTOGRAPHS: OLIVER PILCHER
On Ibizas more relaxed neighbour, vertiginous cliffs drop down

into the Mediterranean Sea, and honey-hued villages sprawl up
forested hillsides, one of the prettiest of which is Dei. Palma
de Mallorca (the capital of both Mallorca and the Balearic
Islands) is a maze of cobbled streets, tree-lined avenues and
chic restaurants, and has a magnicent Gothic cathedral. If you
want to escape into the countryside, stay at Castell Son Claret
(www.castellsonclaret.com; doubles from 405 or 33,690),
a centuries-old former castle that's now a beautiful hotel
surrounded by 325 acres of verdant farmland, orchards and
gardens. When youve nibbled enough tapas by the pool, take
a speedboat out onto the water and zip from cove to cove,
ensuring you stop at the stunning La Foradada point.
Getting there: Fly to Mallorca with SWISS (www.swiss.com.
Stopover in Zurich) from Mumbai or New Delhi.
CNT tip: Explore the scenery by bicycle or on foot. Book
a guided walk or run through Original Travel to reach some
of Mallorca's highest peaks. (www.originaltravel.co.uk)
169
Spetses, Greece
Crete, Greece
Cars are banned on this tiny,

traditional Saronic island
people travel by horse-drawn
carriage, bicycle or moped.
Yet the coastline is dotted with
mansions and Dapia port is
lined with super-yachts. To
lounge with Athenian A-listers,
book a room at Poseidonion
Grand Hotel (www.poseidonion.
com; doubles from 209 or
17,560). If its understated
cool you want, stay at ORLOFF
RESORT (www.orloffresort.com;
doubles from 165 or 13,720),
which has a magnicent pool
beside a 19th-century mansion.
Getting there: Fly to Athens
with Turkish Airlines (www.
turkishairlines.com. Stopover in
Istanbul) from Mumbai or New
Delhi. From there, take a taxi
to the Piraeus port and then a
water-taxi or hydrofoil to Spetses.
CNT tip: Try a freshly baked
almond cake, a local speciality.
At 8,366sq km, Greeces

largest island could be
a country in itselfand its
as diverse as one, too. Crete is
a patchwork of Minoan palaces,
Venetian fortresses, ancient
mosques and monasteries. The
landscape is equally varied, with
mountains, national parks, rural
villages and steep gorges. Of
its many stunning beaches,
Pahi mmos is particularly
good for windsurng and
dolphin-spotting.
Getting there: Fly to Athens
with Turkish Airlines (www.
turkishairlines.com. Stopover in
Istanbul) from Mumbai or New
Delhi, and take an overnight
ferry from Piraeus port.
CNT tip: For a lazy beach holiday,
pick Ammos Hotel, which has
its own patch of white sand and
a fantastic seafront restaurant.
(www.ammoshotel.com)
BEST FOR BEACH BUMS
PHOTOGRAPHS: MATTHEW BUCK; JESSICA SAMPLE
BEST FOR STARGAZERS
170
Kitchen, the restaurant at Ammos

Hotel, on Crete. Opposite, clockwise
from top right: A yacht off Spetses;
the mansion at ORLOFF RESORT;
the swimming pool at the hotel
171
172
Salina, Italy
BEST FOR NATURE ENTHUSIASTS
PHOTOGRAPH: DAN KULLBERG
This minuscule hideaway, famous for its wild natural beauty,

is one of the seven UNESCO-listed Aeolian Islands. Its
dramatic coastlines and striking, black-sand beaches remain
stunningly unspoilt. The climb through lush forest to the
summit of Monte Fossa delle Felci is arduous but denitely
worth the effort. For a more relaxed time, potter around
Santa Marina Salina port's chic boutiques and traditional
food shops or sip the famously sweet Malvasia wines at
one of the islands vineyards. The beach below the village of
Pollara (where part of the 1994 lm Il Postino was shot) is the
islands best sunset spot. If you time your visit to the annual
caper festival in June, you'll see Pollaras streets ll with
dancing and gamesand theres a caper-themed feast. Stay
at Hotel Signum (www.hotelsignum.it; doubles from 200
or 16,870), in the village of Malfa, and enjoy its landscaped
terraces with honeysuckle and lime trees, and its innity pool,
which overlooks the smouldering volcanic island of Stromboli.
Getting there: Fly to Palermo with Lufthansa (www.
lufthansa.com. Stopover in Munich) from New Delhi and
take the hydrofoil to Salina.
CNT tip: Salina is a scuba-diving paradise, due to its volcanic
origins and landslides. Glide past breathtaking reefs, gullies,
pinnacles, walls and caves, observing groupers, moray eels,
barracudas and sea hares. (www.salinadiving.com)
The village of
Pollara on Salina
173
le de R, France
Vis, Croatia
Known as the French

Hamptons, this bolt-hole
for well-heeled Parisians
is understated, quaint and
quintessentially Frenchfrom
the men puffing cigars outside
cafs to the sellers muttering
Oo la la! at vibrant market
stalls. Picturesque villages are
surrounded by salt and oyster
marshes and pine forests.
And cycling is the best way to
travelyoull nd a map from
any tourist office. Along the
way, stop at pavement bistros
to feast on fresh seafood, the
famous le de R sweet potatoes
and, of course, escargots.
Getting there: Fly to Paris with
Air France (www.airfrance.com)
from Mumbai or New Delhi, then
hire a car from Elite Rent-a-Car
(www.eliterent.com) to le de R.
CNT tip: The islands winding
roads are dotted with huts
serving home-cultivated oysters.
Ever since this former military

base opened to tourists in 1989,
a discerning few have been
enjoying its rocky cliffs and quiet
beaches. There are adventures to
be had here, too: go paragliding
or snorkelling, or discover
emerald coves. Vis is also home
to a variety of natural produce,
including olive, g and mulberry
treesso the food is stellar.
For a romantic dinner, try Villa
Kaliopa, (+385 21 711 755), in the
16th-century Garibaldi Palace.
Getting there: Fly to Split with
Lufthansa (www.lufthansa.
com. Stopover in Munich) from
Mumbai or New Delhi. From
there, take a ferry to the island.
CNT tip: Vis is known for its wine,
so sit back and sip a glass or two
of white vugava or red plavac mali.
Indian passport-holders can
visit any of these islands
with a Schengen visa.
(www.schengenvisa.cc)
BEST FOR GOURMANDS
174
BEST FOR WINE LOVERS
PHOTOGRAPHS: JAMES BEDFORD; FREDERIC LAGRANGE/TRUNK ARCHIVE
Exploring Vis by speedboat.

Opposite, clockwise from top left:
A girl on le de R; a shop on Rue
Jules David in Les Portes en R;
an escargot salad on le de R
175
HIGH
TO FEEL THE THRILL
A boho-chic vibe, cutting-edge restaurants and a buzzing nightlife are just three
176
TIME
OF BOOMTOWN
of Toronto's many secrets, says Dominic Wells. Photographs by Jessica Sample
177
Toronto is even more cosmopolitan than New York

cant catch my breath. My hands feel like oven
gloves. Someone in this lift is grunting like
a wounded animal. Looking around, I realise its me.
Are you OK? asks Rod, our guide. She is
not a man. Rod is a nickname, she had explained,
because I tend to attract lightning strikes. This is
not helpful to know when you have a fear of heights
and are in a glass-floored box travelling 1,200ft. Nor
is it helpful when her colleague at the top checks our
harnesses, widens her eyes in horror at mine and
shrieks, Oh my God! before adding, only joking.
Six of us are shackled by a metal cable to an overhead
bar. Together with the boiler suits weve been given to wear
under our harnesses, were feeling less like thrill-seekers and
more like a chain gang. And then we step out
It is breathtaking. Were standing on the observation deck
of Torontos CN Tower (www.cntower.ca), the tallest freestanding structure in the western hemisphere. There are
no Perspex barriers, no handrails, nothing between us and
limitless space. The CN Tower has always had a section of
glass floor, which is scary enough. A Torontonian friend of
mine used to take businessmen up here before a big meeting:
after daring to stand above the void, they would sign anything.
But the latest innovation, the Edge Walk, really is a step
above. It is inspiring, exhilarating and so utterly terrifying
especially when we are invited to lean out over the edge,
held only by cablesI think my heart will give out.
178
I wanted to experience the high life, and here it is.

Shuffling tentatively along the narrow circular ramp above
the void, I gradually unfreeze and start to appreciate the
view. Toronto is a city on the up, literally and figuratively,
and nowhere is this more apparent than from here.
Internationally renowned architects such as Daniel
Libeskind, Frank Gehry and Will Alsop have contributed
signature buildings in the past few years. Libeskinds
controversial extension to the mighty Royal Ontario Museum
(www.rom.on.ca) looks like a silver spaceship crash-landed
into the historic buildingin a good way. Toronto-born
Gehrys more sensitive facelift of the Art Gallery of Ontario
(www.ago.net) includes a magnificent Douglas fir stairwell that
coils up and around like a gigantic wood shaving and a 450ftlong, curving, timbered window on one gallery that makes you
feel as if youre standing in a glass-bottomed Noahs Ark.
Today, the skyline is spiked with cranes, like toothpicks
from gigantic teeth. Toronto has more than 170 high-rise
buildings under constructionthe most by far of any North
American city. Until 2011, it got by with just one five-star
hotel. Now it has half a dozen.
Above, from left: A dapper Toronto local; the Art Gallery
of Ontario. Opposite page, clockwise from left: Staff at
the Kate Spade shop in Yorkville; games at Snakes &
Lattes; Jen Agg, the owner of The Black Hoof; seafood
at The Black Hoof; the restaurant exterior. Previous
pages: The lobby at the Thompson Toronto hotel
and the city is a patchwork of ethnic neighbourhoods

These developments have had a subtle but profound
effect. Most are high-end condominiums, attracting young,
urban professionals back from the suburbs into the centre;
they have no children but they have money, and they want
to spend it at night. This has created a boom not just in
building, but in nightlife, the restaurant and bar scene
and the arts.
Geographically, too, Toronto is blessed. From up here, you
can see across Lake Ontario all the way to Niagara, 51km
away. The Great Lake used to be too polluted to swim in,
but last summer, new drainage systems cleaned it up. Later,
I take a boat out to nearby Toronto Island for a bike ride
and a swim. It feels like another worldbut look over your
shoulder and the space-needle of the CN Tower and its
surrounding skyscrapers are right there, like a sci-fi films
special-effect city plonked into the middle of the wilderness.
The lake keeps the city cooler in summer, warmer in
winter. I grew up in Ottawa, just 320km away, and the cold is
a visceral memory. Shoppers would be stopped in the street
and warned that their noses had blackened from frostbite.
Snow would fall so thickly overnight, you couldnt open
the front door and had to leap from a first-floor window
to shovel it away. Some days it hurt to breathe.
Torontos weather is less extreme, but even so, a second,
troglodytic city has been carved out beneath the streets.
If the town centre seems bare of shops, thats because
they are down in the 27km underground PATH network
the worlds largest, with 1,200 outlets spread over more

than 40 lakh sq ft of retail space. Above ground, the
Entertainment District around the CN Tower is home to
super-clubs converted from industrial warehouse space in
the 1980s and 1990s, and to a string of theatres bettered only
by London and New York.
All in all, the view from up here is of a city finally realising
its potential. The irony is that Torontonians themselves are
the last to see it. Canadian musicians are seldom prized
unless, like Neil Young, Alanis Morissette and now Justin
Bieber, they first make it big in the US. Its telling that
Toronto has never given itself a nickname. New York is
the City That Never Sleeps. Paris is the City of Light. Rome
is the Eternal City. But the name Toronto was incorporated
in 1834 partly to escape the nickname dirty little York. The
closest thing it now has to a slogan is the phrase (coined in
the 1980s by the comic raconteur Peter Ustinov): Toronto
is like New York run by the Swiss.
This was never wholly fair. Toronto had its thriving arts
scene, a certain bohemian charm. But the fact that it has
suddenly become an upmarket destination is one of the
worlds best-kept secrets. In 2011, Toronto came second
in PricewaterhouseCoopers global cities of opportunity
surveyone of the most comprehensive ever conducted
which measured quality-of-life indices as well as economic
ones. Since then, new restaurants and hotels have opened
that would be the envy of any major city. r
179
The modern extension of

the Royal Ontario Museum
180
FOODIE FRONT LINE

Luxury often goes hand-in-hand with pretentiousness.
Not in Toronto. One of the most exciting new ventures is
a semi-secret gastronomic club that commands the top chefs
in the country, and whose pop-up evenings sell out within
hoursdespite costing C$227-C$346 ( 12,500- 19,000) a
head. The ultimate was a 100-course tasting menu cooked by
six chefs, offering sea urchin with ginger vinaigrette, octopus
with popcorn powder and beets roasted in soil with barley
milk. Another evening involved a modern twist on Canadian
fare caught by Inuit tribes: Qikiqtarjuaq clams, Mipkuzola
fennel, fire-roasted musk ox and narwhal bannock, followed
by grilled rack of seal with walrus crackling. Yet the name
of this most sought-after gastro club is jokily downmarket:
Charlies Burgers (www.charliesburgers.ca).
Franco Stalteri, the founder of Charlies Burgers, agreed
to be my guide for the evening. So that night, my legs still
shaky from the Edge Walk, we meet at Buca (www.buca.
ca), an Italian restaurant where Jamie Oliver tweeted that
he had his favourite meal of the whole year. Its typical of
Torontos inferiority complex that The Star, a top Toronto
newspaper, wrote, That Buca is an excellent restaurant is
something Torontonians already know. But having a celebrity
from another country discover it somehow makes it real.
Standout dishes include pasta in pork blood with broccoli
and chilli, and bison carpaccio (chef Rob Gentile hangs huge
haunches of meat in a cabinet) topped with a duck egg and
covered for 90 minutes in rock salt until the meat has a texture
like butter. The Michelin Guide does not (yet) include Toronto,
but if it did, this would certainly merit a star or two.
Its actually liberating, says Stalteri, that chefs here
dont have to worry about the stars, with all the stuffiness
and restrictions they can bring. What defines the restaurant
scene in Toronto is that the chefs are young: there are fewer
barriers compared with New York, so they are opening their
own restaurants earlier in their careers, while they are still
passionate and innovative. Asked to name exciting new
restaurants in Toronto, Stalteri reels off a dozen easily.
And Jen Agg, owner of the wildly popular charcuterie
restaurant The Black Hoof (www.theblackhoof.com), has
changed the way Toronto eats, according to the Post, and
nurtured some of the citys hippest young chefs. But even here,
that self-deprecating streak comes out. Asked what defines
Canadian cuisine, Agg quips wryly: Whatever New York
cuisine was five years ago.
More seriously, she suggests that modern Canadian
food is defined by its immigrants. Toronto is even more
cosmopolitan than New York and the city is a patchwork of
ethnic neighbourhoods: Chinatown, Corso Italia, Greektown,
Kensington Market, Koreatown, Little India, Little Italy, Little
Jamaica and Little Portugal, where The Black Hoof is located.
But whereas New York is a real melting pot, says Agg, here
they hold on to their culture more. The really exciting cooking
is coming from the immigrant children doing cool Chinese
food or Rob Gentiles Italian at Buca.
At the top end of the spectrum, the following nights meal
at Kaiseki Yu-zen Hashimoto (www.kaiseki.ca) makes this
abundantly clear (see right). But at the low end, Toronto
is great for buzzy little neighbourhood joints, too. In r
IS THIS THE MOST EXTRAORDINARY

RESTAURANT IN THE WORLD?
aiseki Yu-zen
Hashimoto must
be the priciest
restaurant in Canada. But its
not in chic Yorkville, or even in
the city centre at all. You must
make your pilgrimage to the
Japanese Canadian Cultural
Centre in the sleepy Don
Mills area. Youll be rewarded
with a bill that comes close
to C$545 ( 30,000) a head.
There is no choice at dinner:
you are simply brought
the eight courses that chef
Masaki Hashimoto (pictured
above with his family) has
chosen to cook. And although
the restaurant is large, there
are just six covers. A good
thing, as this is a meal to
contemplate quietly, like art
in a gallery. Water bubbles
from a fountain. Woodwind
music hovers on the edge of
audibility. Paper lanterns hang
over black lacquered tables.
Were it not for the maple
leaves strewn here and there,
you could be in a Kyoto tea
house. A tiny, smiling old lady
shuffles over. She bows and

introduces the rst course.
This is on jya kuzen, ('hot
stone near stomach'), which
has three items: ika meshi
(squid stuffed with sticky
rice and topped with daikon
radish), white saikyo-miso
soupwith a delicately
carved, oating ball of lotus
rootand sesame tofu with
soy sauce and wasabi jelly.
And so it goes, for three
hours. The courses, of several
dishes each, are exquisitely
presented: a crane in ight
carved from a radish and an
octopus made from curls of
sh. The simple avours are
well-balancedwho knew
a humble radish-and-ginger
sauce could be a gastronomic
high point of ones life?
Kaiseki cuisine stretches
back to the 17th century.
Hashimoto has devoted
the better part of his life to
perfecting it; his wife, who
serves the food, and son, the
restaurants manager, are
doing the same.
181
Artists, musicians and dreamers still throng Toronto,

Koreatown, I found Snakes & Lattes, a caf that has more
than 2,000 board games; and the Paupers Pub, where the
terrace bar offers sky-high views at rock-bottom prices. Its
good to see that, despite Torontos swanky new hairdo, its
bohemian roots still show. In the erstwhile Jewish Kensington
Market, a historically protected enclave of vintage clothing
shops, organic bakeries and street art, a hippy granny
skateboards past in a frilly white dress and pigtails; a bearded
dude in a floppy hat offers his metalwork for sale at a million
dollars, manor whatever you got. It even has its own
Amsterdam-style caf, the Roach-o-Rama (http://hotboxcafe.
ca), whose tag line is: Serving potheads since ah, I forget.
Having visited New York two months earlier, I find
Manhattan has become a yuppie fortress ringed by its moat
of rivers; the painters and poets have all fled their SoHo lofts
for Williamsburg. Artists, musicians and dreamers still throng
Toronto, though, breathing life into its street culture. To
answer Ustinov, New York is now the more Swiss of the two.
STAY SMART
The boutique Thompson Toronto hotel (www.thompsonhotels.
com) has a huge 3D mural of Toronto by Spanish designer
Javier Mariscal in the lobby, a terrific rooftop bar with an
infinity pool and sweeping views of the skyline, a nightclub
in the basement and a screening room that makes it a fixture
of the Toronto International Film Festival. But the service is
a little too casual. A drawer handle comes off in my hand,
182
there is no plug socket by the work desk, the receptionist

promises to get back to me on a wi-fi query but never does
and, in the hotel diner, a manager tells off his staff in full
earshot of the guests.
Still, having opened in June 2010, the Thompson was
merely Torontos dry run. The Htel Le Germain Maple Leaf
Square (www.germainmapleleafsquare.com), which launched
a few months later, proves much more successful. The rooms
are smart and understated, with huge bathrooms and subtle
sports motifs in the dcor (the hotel is next to a sporting
and live-music arena), but its the service that sets it apart.
There are little touches such as free coffee and apples, and
breakfast and wi-fi are included in every room rate. Service
is our number-one priority, says general manager Paul de La
Durantaye. We like it to be unobtrusive: for instance, our
cleaning staff noticed that one guest turned his loo roll the
other way up, so we put a note on his profile to arrange it
that way whenever he came to stay.
The Trump International Hotel (www.trumphotelcollection.
com), which opened in early 2012, goes even further,
taking customer service to near fanatical levels. Before their
stay, guests are invited to list their preferences in an online
Clockwise from top left: Stylish locals in Little Portugal; a
bartender at Buca; a display at the Royal Ontario Museum;
a cured sh board at The Black Hoof; a dish at Kaiseki Yu-zen
Hashimoto. Opposite, from left: Kensington Market; a view of
the city skyline from Centre Island
breathing life into the city's street culture

questionnaire, so they arrive to a room heated to the optimal
temperature with the right music playing. And when you step
up to the reception, the check-in staff magically greet you by
name, as if they know you. (I can let you in on the secret: the
doormen are wired. They introduce themselves first, asking
your name, while reception listen in.)
Although the Trump is Torontos second tallest skyscraper,
it seems unostentatious by the chains usual standardsuntil
you learn that, to Ivanka Trump, the black-and-grey colour
scheme represents caviar and Champagne. And though one
of the signature dishes at its rooftop restaurant is the humble
hot dog, these are C$21 ( 1,150) pedigree dogs made from
wagyu beef. Even the chocolates are handcrafted by a former
engineer in a chocolate lab on the premises. Half the rooms
are suites and theres a 15,070sq-ft spa.
But competition in Torontos smartest sector is swift and
fierce. The Shangri-La (www.shangri-la.com) opened last
year, along with chef David Changs three-storey Momofuku
project (http://momofuku.com), featuring four restaurants
in varying styles and price brackets. Perhaps the most
anticipated new hotel was the flagship Four Seasons. The
brands global empire began right here in Toronto 50 years
ago, with one motel in an unfashionable part of town. The
previous Four Seasons had faded over time and was suffering
in comparison with the five-star Hazelton, which opened
opposite it in 2007. For Dimitrios Zarikos, general manager
of the Four Seasons Hotel Toronto (www.fourseasons.com),
the new trio of buildings on upmarket Yorkville Avenue

(also home to high-end labels like Kate Spade New York)
is where we were born, and we want this hotel to set the
tone for where we are going over the next 50 years. Just the
finest out of 92 hotels in 38 countries. No pressure, then.
And now, some new super-projects are on the horizon.
Last year, theatre mogul David Mirvish and architect Frank
Gehry announced plans for a triple-towered culture-andcondo complex. The Metro Toronto Convention Centre also
put forward plans for a development to include an urban
park, a hotel and casino.
Ive visited Toronto several times over the years. If someone
had told me this small, pleasant, arts-loving city would
become an economic powerhouse with world-class dining,
hotels and architecture, I would have laughed. But seeing is
believing. If only Torontonians would wake up to it themselves.
Or on second thoughts, lets all keep it hush-hush. Maybe
then theyll carry on going that extra mile for visitors.
GETTING THERE
Fly to Toronto with Jet Airways (www.jetairways.com.
Stopover in Brussels) from New Delhi or Emirates (www.
emirates.com. Stopover in Dubai) from Mumbai or New
Delhi. Indian passport-holders can get a visa from the High
Commission of Canada (http://india.gc.ca) in New Delhi. Visas
cost 5,900 and take about nine working days to process.
183
The Douglas r staircase at the Art Gallery

of Ontario. Opposite, clockwise from top left:
Hotel Le Germain Maple Leaf Square;
chicken-fried quail at The Black Hoof;
Franco Stalteri of Charlie's Burgers at Soho
House Toronto; quirky interiors at Buca
184
AFTER SUNSET IN TORONTO

The nightlife in this city is like a perfectly mixed cocktail that leaves you wanting more.
Sushma Kilachand tells you where to party the night away
LIVE MUSIC VENUES
Established in 1947, Horseshoe
Tavern (www.horseshoetavern.
com) has hosted legends such
as The Police and The Rolling
Stones. Grab a few beers and
watch some great live rock
n roll. If you prefer jazz and
swing, look no further than
The Reservoir Lounge (www.
reservoirlounge.com), a classy
subterranean spot. And if
dancing's your thing, Lula
Lounge (www.lula.ca) hosts
parties on weekends, starring
Torontos best live salsa bands.
MAP: NEIL GOWER
BARS & LOUNGES

DRAKE 150 (www.drakeonefty.
ca) is a beautiful space, where
the in-house mixologist creates
some of the best cocktails
in the city. This downtown
hotspot also hosts pop-up
restaurants with celebrity chefs.

ONE restaurant (www.one.
mcewangroup.ca) is a magnet
for celebrities. Grab a table on
its patio and people-watch while
you sip on a Lipstick Martini and
devour lobster spoons.
PRIVATE WINE BARS

& CLUBS
One of my favourite wine
bars in the city is The
Vintage Conservatory (www.
vintageconservatory.com),
a place that makes it easy to
meet new people (and drink
some great wine while you're
at it). If you're interested in
media and the arts, The Spoke
Club (www.thespokeclub.com)
is for you. It's also a hidden
enclave of the beautiful and
famous, including Clive Owen
and Colin Farrell.
NIGHTCLUBS
Muzik (www.muzikclubs.com)
is arguably Toronto's coolest
entertainment venue. Housed
in a 1907 building under a
60ft-high classical glass dome,
the 41,000sq-ft space has
nine fully equipped bars in the
main event area. Other features
include personal security, limo
and hotel services on request
and an exclusive VIP entrance,
exit and washrooms. For a more
casual night out, head to The
Ossington (www.theossington.
com), a hipster spot that plays
a sweet mix of hip-hop, R&B,
soul and funk for the Saturday
night crowd. Thursday is the
bar's busiest night, when
you can catch local artists at
their bohemian best, drinking
Bailey's-spiked Americano
and Hungarian beer. EFS

(www.efstoronto.com) is
becoming really popular,
especially on Thursday and
Friday nights. The rooftop
patio has tons of greenery
and small cabanas that are
equipped with hookahs.
The club also has a very cool
cocktail menu. And if you're
looking for a younger crowd,
the very popular Switch (www.
switchtoronto.com), Justin
Bieber's favourite spot in the
city, is your safest bet. It has
an arcade and plays great
house music.
Sushma
Kilachand is
a Torontobased
designer and
entrepreneur.
185
WHAT TO PACK
Extend your travel wardrobe by wearing versatile pieces with
dening accessories on your honeymoon or at a music festival
Precious Plunge
Brassiere ( 2,750),
Precious Brazilian
Knickers ( 1,300);
both Intimate
Street
Honeymoon
Sunglasses,
Ermenegildo Zegna
A couple on the beach at

sunset. Bottom: The 2003
lm, Just Married
Shirt, Ted Baker
PAIR A NEUTRAL DRESS WITH

A SCARF IN THE DAY
AND DRESS IT UP AT NIGHT
WITH SPARKLY HEELS
AND A STATEMENT CUFF
Mint Mughal Jaal Dress,

Huemn ( 14,550), geometric
print silk scarf, Pooja
Aggarwal ( 3,900); both at
www.perniaspopupshop.com
Double Stripe
iPad Cover,
Tods
Malachite
statement cuff,
Isharya, 16,700
Gold stilettos,
Tom Ford
Rad Russel shoes, Heel

& Buckle, 11,000
Printed-leather
belt, Corneliani
Woven-hemp trilby hat,

Borsalino, 31,050
Music festival
Peach crop top with pink

and cream oral detailing,
Ridhi Mehra at www.pernias
popupshop.com, 7,800
Festival-goers at Splendour in
the Grass, Australia. Bottom: A
Ferris wheel at Coachella Valley
Music and Arts Festival, US
*PRICES OF PRODUCTS NOT AVAILABLE IN INDIA ARE CONVERTED INTO RUPEES AND ARE ACCURATE AT THE TIME OF GOING TO PRESS
PHOTOGRAPHS: GETTY; PURESTOCK/SUPERSTOCK/CORBIS COMPILED BY: JASREEN MAYAL KHANNA
Rosie Denim
Shorts, Tommy
Hilger, 6,000
DENIM SHORTS CAN

BE WORN WITH A
SUMMERY CROP TOP IN THE
DAY AND ROCKER-CHIC
ACCESSORIES AT NIGHT
Printed shirt,
Thomas Pink
Wave Clear sunglasses,

Burberry
Jeans, GAS, 6,000

Quadrat lomography camera,
La Sardina at Sanctum, 8,900
Shoes, Kenneth Cole,

13,000
NN 14 PM Show Girl
bag, Louis Vuitton
High-heeled
platform
sandals, Gucci
All prices on request, unless stated

otherwise. See Directory, page 208
COMPLIMENTARY SUPPLEMENT WITH THE VOGUE JULY 2014 ISSUE
WELLNESS GUIDE 2014

HEALTHY WEALTHY & WISE
This July will see the launch of the rst ever Vogue
Wellness Guidebringing you the best spas, revealing
the most luxurious Ayurveda retreats and showing you
how to bring balance to frenetic lifestyles. From food and
tness to health farms and yoga retreats, this modern day
lifestyle handbook is sure to become your go-to guide
for the hottest trends in healthy living and well-being.
For advertising opportunities, please contact voguewellnessguide@condenast.in
-APRIL
MOS
THE
AR
T BEAU
TIFU
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MES
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ST EV
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E FIR
DIGE
ING TH
RAL
ODUC
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INTR
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INDI`150
MARCH
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India
Special
DIAN
IN IN
MES 2014
L NA
NTIA GN FOR
INFLUE & DESI
MOSTECTURE
IT
THE 50
ARCH
IVE
CLUS S
AD EX ARORA
RIS
SH IN PA
MANI
HOME GGERS
JA
EAT
JADEA RETR
GO
SWISS
THEAD
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SS ENCE
SID
AMBA
LHI RE
DE
NEW
The experts
Travel queries + The Uruguay World Cup, 1930 + Win a holiday in Khajuraho
Q&A
CLASSIC QUESTION
We asked three entertainers which tracks would make it onto their playlist
on a cruise, road trip, city break or mountain escape. By Ambika Muttoo
ARJUN VAGALE
PHOTOGRAPH: GETTY
DJ, music producer

and former member
of Jalebee Cartel
On a cruise... I can picture

myself on a yacht heading
to Tulum, in Mexico, and the
following songs would be
playing: Summertime by DJ
Jazzy Jeff & The Fresh Prince
with afternoon drinks, Azure
by Slam (Carl Craig C2 Remix)
at sunset and Anil Chawlas
Bells (Kaiserdisco Remix)
when its time to party.
On a road trip... Im not one
for long car rides, but Ive been
dying to go to the Burning
Man festival, in Nevadaand
I guess that calls for a road trip.
The Journey Begins by Victor
Calderone and Nicole Moudaber,
Joel Mulls Track From The Past
and Luigi Acidmachines Two
Mojitos would all make the cut.
JESSE
SIMINSKI, AKA
HEARTTHROB
DJ and owner
of music label
ISNISNT
On a road trip... Id love to
drive from Vancouver, in Canada,
to San Diego, in the US. For this
long, beautiful journey, Richie
Hawtins album, DE9 | Closer To
The Edit, would offer the right level
of energy and mystery. The new
Efdemin album from Dial Records
would also make my playlistin
particular, the hypnotic Solaris
and spacey The Meadow.
On a city break...In New York
City, Id pick Sonic Youths music
for its gritty rock and Indie spirit.
My Friend Goo from the album,
Goo, is urgent and funny and has
a great attitudelike New York.
In Tokyo, Id listen to Techno
World by Detroit-based electro
godfather Erik Travis. Its cool
and has a great sense of humour.
JUHI PANDE
VJ, author and
TV show host
OUR EXPERTS
THIS ISSUE
On a mountain escape...
and Im Here Now by Motopony.
My trip to Bali was supposed
Since then, these three songs
to be a beach vacation, but
have become rm favourites.
instead we went into the
On a city break... Goldspots
mountains, about three hours
album, And The Elephant Is
Dancing, makes for an upbeat
from Seminyak. Here, we stayed
in the most beautiful little
soundtrack for a visit to any
villa overlooking a rainforest.
new city. I especially like the
We had James Blakes album,
song, Clap Clap. A few months
ago, I was in New York City and
Overgrown, on repeat. It was
the perfect soundtrack to the
Brooklyn by Woodkid started
holiday, especially the song
playing. It seemed apt to have
it on loop while I was wandering
Digital Overgrown.
On a road trip... The
the streets. Last year, I was
best road adventure
on an Erykah Badu binge,
cntraveller.in
so my boyfriend, Michael,
Ive been on was from
Bombay to Hampi. My
Email us your surprised me with tickets
to her concert in London.
playlist included Cant
queries at
askCNT@
So, for the UK capital, Id
Stand the Fire by Fritz
condenast.
go with Love Of My Life
Kalkbrenner, Candil
in
by Erykah Badu.
De La Calle by Apparat
MAY
2014
150
WAYS TO BE
A SUMMER
GODDESS
THE
WHITE
SHIRT
Your search
ends here
EXCLUSIVE!
JONATHAN
FRANZEN
TELLS ALL
THE
VOGUE
BOOK
CLUB
2014s
best reads
SAY YES TO
SUMMER
PASTELS & METALLICS,
HIGH-STREET & HIGH FASHION
RSVP
HICSA
2014
MUMBAI
The hospitality
industrys bigwigs gathered
for the annual conference
Accors Sbastien Bazin,

HVSs Manav Thadani and
Accors Jean-Michel Cass
Sotel Mumbai BKC
PHOTOGRAPHS: NCN CREATIVES
Hiltons
Rajesh Punjabi
Sarovars Ajay Bakaya, Marriotts Rajeev Menon,
Sarovars Anil Madhok, Eastern International
Hotels Dinesh Khanna and The Leelas Rajiv Kaul
VSs annual Hotel Investment

Conference-South Asia (HICSA)
draws big names with big stakes in
Indiaand that number is steadily growing.
This year, more than 100 hotel brands from
across the world were represented. Lively
discussions encompassed everything from
the challenges of real-estate prices to the
role of social media in guest services. CNT
partnered with HVS for a cocktail party at
Sotel Mumbai BKC, where a small group
of insiders met informally to chat about the
exciting days ahead. And on the second day,
CNT editor, Divia Thani Daswani, moderated
a panel on The Business of Leisure, Wellness
and Luxury, along with representatives
of the Trump Hotel Collection, GOCO
Hospitality, MGM and Six Senses.
HVSs Stephen
Rushmore Jr
Trump Hotel Collections Sha Syed, CNTs

Divia Thani Daswani and The Parks Priya Paul
Lemon Tree
Hotels
Saurabh Nandi
Brigade Hospitalitys Nirupa

Shankar and Le Passage to
Indias Arjun Sharma
CNTs Sunaina Talwar Khiani,

Eternal Mewars Vinita Sharma,
HH Arvind Singh Mewar
SAMHIs
Philip Logan
SAMHIs
Ashish
Jakhanwala
HVSs Prasanjit Singh, Natwar Nagar,

Mansi Bhatnagar and Achin Khanna
Berggruen
Hospitalitys
Sanjay Sethi
StayWell Hospitality Groups Rohit

Vig and Archetypes Cyril Jacob
Accors Jean-Michel Cass

and Lavasas Nathan Andrews
Accors Nikhil Dhodapkar, HVSs Kaushik

Vardharajan, Accors Saurabh Gupta and
Sotel Mumbai BKCs Biswajit Chakraborty
The CNT
To launch our all-new website, www.cntraveller.in, we ran a contest for our
readers, who entered to win a dream vacation to one of five amazing destinations.
All they had to do was share their favourite story on Twitter or Facebook with
the hashtag #TravelBucketList. They came. They saw. They posted. And they
won! Heres a sneak peek into the lucky winners itineraries to five fabulous
destinations: Australia, Great Britain, France, Oman and Switzerland
AUSTRALIA Winner: Kunal Punjabi
GREAT BRITAIN Winner: Jyotirmoy Bose
Theres a lot in store for Kunal, with Sydneys captivating charm, global cuisine
and must-see sights like the stunning Harbour Bridge and Opera House.
However, the scenic city is renowned for more than its iconic landmarks.
Theres also rst-class restaurants, action-packed harbour experiences,
sparkling beaches, a pulsing nightlife, an abundance of art and culture and
a stylish shopping scene. Melbourne, on the other hand, is considered one of
Australias most artistic, fashionable and elegant destinations. But behind the
ordered grid of the city lies a quirky web of over 180 tiny laneways and side
streets, bursting with one-off boutiques, galleries, quaint cafs, secret bars
and restaurants that pack a real punch.
Great Britain offers plenty to do. Jyotirmoy will be exploring two

of Londons most legendary landmarks: Madame Tussauds Wax
Museum boasts incredible models of some of the worlds biggest
stars; and a ride on the London Eye offers breathtaking 360
degree views of the citys famous buildings and monumentsits
a whole album of memories that will last a lifetime. Aided by the
new Bollywood in Britain app, he can also relive the allure of all the
spectacular places in Britain that have played host to some of the
greatest Bollywood movies.
#TravelBucketList Contest
OMAN Winner: Kanchan Lad
The exotic Sultanate of Oman has one of the oldest civilisations in the Arabian
Peninsula, an oasis of ancient beauty that Kanchan Lad will experience. Her
itinerary includes a visit to the Royal Opera House and bustling Muttrah Souq,
discovering the beauty of the Grand Mosqueand the mesmerising limestone
crater Bimah Sinkhole, driving to the Wahiba Sands and visiting the House of
Amouage, where some of the worlds most valuable perfumes are created.
Plus an overnight stay at Ras al Jinz Scientic Centre, which is home to some
fascinating green turtles.
SWITZERLAND Winner: Abhishek Sadekar
Everythings picture-perfect in Switzerland and Abhisheks got an exciting

journey ahead of him. There are incredible views of the Aletsch Glacier, the
longest glacier in the Alps that can be seen from the Jungfraujoch, the highest
railway station in Europe. Sightseeing in Lucerne includes a Lake Lucerne
cruise to Alpnachstad and then up to the Pilatus with the steepest cogwheel
railway in the world. And thats not all; theres paragliding, kayaking, hiking,
sightseeing and shopping in the Old Town, visiting the Transport Museum
and excursions to the famous Mount Titlis to look forward to.
FRANCE Winner: Arundhati Sridhar
Arundhatis once-in-a-lifetime experience begins right

from the moment she steps on-board her Air France ight
to Paris, as the airline is celebrating 80 years of commercial
ight operations, and collaborations with great artists,
prestigious designers and famous chefs who have all
contributed to making French culture famous across the
world. She then checks into The Hotel du Collectionneur
Arc de Triomphe Paris, which enjoys an exceptional
location in the heart of this romantic city, only minutes
away from the Champs Elyses, with panoramic views of
the Eiffel Tower. Add to that a sightseeing discovery tour
of Paris in an authentic 2CV car for an encounter with
glorious monuments. Theres no forgetting Paris!
To be part of all the excitement,

amazing contests and once-in-a-lifetime
opportunities, follow us here:
www.facebook.com/cntravellerindia
@cn_traveller_in
www.cntraveller.in
Contest
PHOTOGRAPH: IMAGINECHINA/CORBIS
WHERE
ARE YOU?
This striking structure, built in 2007, is
considered one of the coolest designs in this
enormous country. The idea was conceived
by architectural students at a nearby
university. Access to the main body of the
building is through the violin, from where
an escalator lifts you to the grand piano.
There are two concert halls here, which are
used by local music colleges. Its situated
in a city that stands in the middle reaches
of a major river and is famously known as the
town of bean curdalthough in recent years,
the town has developed into a metropolis
with many skyscrapers and shopping malls.
Reportedly, more inventive architectural
projects are planned for the city, including
a rumoured hotel in the shape of a tabletennis paddle. Where are you?
CECILY WALKER
Email your answer to whereareyou@

condenast.in and you could win
a three-night stay at The LaLiT
Temple View Khajuraho.
See overleaf for detailsand look out for
the answer in our next issue, out in August.
Contest
A guest room at The LaLiT
Temple View Khajuraho. Left:
The swimming pool at the hotel
WIN a three-night stay at The LaLiT Temple

View Khajuraho
which tells the history of the region and
the beautiful temples of Khajuraho.
To win a three-night stay in
a LaLiT Garden View Room at The
LaLiT Temple View Khajuraho,
correctly identify the location of this
issues Where are you? competition
before 1 July. The prize includes
breakfast, the evening entertainment
of the Sandhya Aarti and the Sound
and Light show.
The offer is valid until 30 November
2014. The prize is non-transferable and
cannot be redeemed for cash. For more
information on the resort, call +91 176
8627 2111 or visit www.thelalit.com.
Winners will be announced in CNTs
August-September issue.
Contest
Contest
WHERE
ARE YOU?
This iconic landmark, named after
a biblical term, is a popular tourist
attraction, just off the coastline of the
worlds largest island nation. Its part of
a national park that lies in the countrys
most densely populated state, and is just
275km from its capital city. Formed by
oceanic currents and powerful winds, the
dramatic structures once towered about
150ft above the worlds fourth-largest
ocean; but, reportedly, as time goes by,
theyre shrinking, due to erosion. Visitors
to this magnicent natural wonder can
also explore the surrounding waters.
There are some superb dive spots to
discoverfrom a 19th-century shipwreck
to a collapsed arch that shares its name
with one of the UK capitals most famous
bridges. Where are you?
SARITA SANTOSHINI
Email your answer to whereareyou@

condenast.in and you could win
a three-night stay at Bengaluru
Marriott Hotel Whiteeld.
See overleaf for detailsand look out for
the answer in our next issue, out in June.
208 Cond Nast Traveller Apr-May 2014
PHOTOGRAPH: DAVID LAWRENCE/CORBIS
his five-star boutique hotel is

located near the magnificent
Khajuraho temples, famous for
their erotic sculptures. Its 47 spacious
rooms and suites offer views of the
temples or the lush gardens.
If youre keen to explore the
area, the hotel can organise trips to
attractions such as the Pandav Falls,
Raneh Falls, Panna National Park and
the palaces and cenotaphs in Orchha.
After a days sightseeing, the hotels
wellness centre, Rejuve - The Spa,
offers a wonderful place to relax, as
well as giving guests the opportunity to
learn yoga and use the swimming pool.
A highlight of every evening here
is the in-house Sound and Light show,
Apr-May 2014 Cond Nast Traveller 209
WINNER: APRIL-MAY 2014

The winner of Apr-Mays Where
are you? competition is Surya
Rangwani, who correctly identified
the above picture as being of the
Twelve Apostles in Australia. He
wins a three-night stay for two at
Bengaluru Marriott Hotel Whitefield.
COMPETITION RULES
1. Entries for Cond Nast Travellers Where Are You? competition can be sent on a postcard,
by email or online (all stating the entrants full name, address and telephone number) and
must correctly identify the place described according to the instructions given.
2. Entries by post should be sent to: Where Are You? competition, Cond Nast Traveller,
3rd Floor, Dubash House, 15 JN Heredia Marg, Ballard Estate, Mumbai 400001.
3. Email entries should be sent to whereareyou@condenast.in; entries can also be made online
at www.cntraveller.in.
4. Winners will be judged at the discretion of Cond Nast Traveller. The decision of the judges
will be nal and binding. No correspondence will be entertained. Only one correct answer will
be registered per entrant per issue.
5. Each entry must arrive no later than the rst day of the second month on that issues cover.
The last day of receiving entries is 1 July 2014. Winners will be intimated by post or over the
telephone wherever possible.
6. The entries must be in English and complete in all respects. Incomplete entries will not
be considered for a prize.
7. Cond Nast India Pvt Ltd is not responsible for late, lost or damaged mail or email.
Illegible or mechanically-produced entries are not eligible. Entries by text message are
not eligible.
8. Prizes will not be transferred or exchanged for cash or any other item. No refunds or credits
for changes or cancellations are allowed. All other expenses and costs, which are not specied
as being included in the prize, are the sole responsibility of the winner.
9. All prizes must be redeemed prior to the expiry date.
10. Taxes if any on the prize are the sole responsibility of the winner.
11. The Where Are You? competition is open to readers of Cond Nast Traveller who are
18 or older on the date of entry and are ordinarily residents of India.
12. Employees of Cond Nast India Pvt Ltd, participating promotional agencies, contributors
to Cond Nast Traveller, and the families of any of those above are not eligible to contest.
13. All entries to the Where Are You? competition become the sole property of Cond Nast
Traveller and will neither be acknowledged nor returned.
14. Entries become the property of Cond Nast India Pvt Ltd and may be used for such
purpose and in such media as the company deems t, without requiring the participants
prior permission.
15. Acceptance of the prize constitutes consent for the use of the winners name and likeness
and those of his/her travelling companion for editorial, advertising and publicity purposes.
16. Cond Nast India Pvt Ltd will not be liable for any loss, damage or expense incurred by
a prizewinner or by his/her travelling companion (for example, costs of repatriation) as
a consequence of any party participating in providing the prize becoming insolvent or
entering into liquidation or bankruptcy.
17. Cond Nast India Pvt Ltd reserves the right to amend any or all of the terms of this contest,
or the prizes on offer, at any time without prior notice. All disputes will be subject to the
jurisdiction of Mumbai courts only.
18. Contestants, by entering the competition, agree to be bound by the above rules, terms
and conditions. Please indicate if you do not want to be added to our mailing list, which is
sometimes made available to carefully screened companies.
Our pick of the most

stylish nds and travelrelated news
GO PHILIPPINES
THIS SEASON
Whether youre going with the family or a loved one, theres plenty
to do in the Philippines. Take the kids to Manila, where you must
visit the Manila Ocean Park, Baywalk at Manila Bay, Museo
Pambata, Binondo (the worlds rst Chinatown) and malls such
as SM Megamall and the Shangri-La Plaza. Go with your other
half to one of the 7,000-plus islands that the country offers.
Choose from Cebu, Boracay and Palawan islands, where you can
just relax on the beach or take part in water sports.
(http://itsmorefuninthephilippines.com)
PARISIAN
ROMANCE
Take your other half on the

ultimate romantic holiday by
booking in a stay with Htel
Fouquets Barrire. A member
of the Leading Hotels of the
World, the art deco hotel
features interiors by Jacques
Garcia and is set at the
intersection of the ChampsElyses and the elegant Avenue
George V. Leaders Club
Members can opt for the X3 or
X4 packages, both of which
come with two nights
accommodation and exclusive
access to luxury stores.
(www.lhw.com)
EXPLORE NEW ZEALAND

WITH ABERCROMBIE & KENT
Discover New Zealands award-winning restaurants and wineries on a personally
crafted culinary tour of the country with Abercrombie & Kent. Merino lamb raised on
the hills; fresh vegetables; crusty, freshly baked artisan bread and pinot noir from the
vineyards are overwhelming and simply divine. Or explore the best of Queenstown
and Auckland as you walk through the farmer markets, selecting fresh produce along
with a chef to enjoy a cooking lesson. Accompany it with an amazing wine, selected
by you earlier on a cellar door or tasting room experience. New Zealand is blessed
with perhaps the worlds largest concentration of stunning natural wonders, including
bubbling geothermal pools, brooding volcanoes, majestic peaks, dense forests, deep
fjords and sunny beaches. Abercrombie & Kent will handpick the gems to give you the
ultimate panorama of this extraordinary destination on an independent journey.
(www.abercrombiekent.co.in) 1800-111-010
THAI FINEDINING COMES

TO FRANKFURT
Fans of Bangkoks lebua hotel will be glad to know that the

award-winning Breeze restaurant will be opening an
outpost in Steigenberger Frankfurter Hof in next year. With
an exceptional menu that remains true to its authentic
Asian roots while raising the bar for aesthetically pleasing
presentation, it promises to be a permanent xture on
Frankfurts illustrious culinary map. (www.lebua.com)
On
the
go
Straight
from Finland
This season, indulge your taste

buds with pure vodka by
Finlandia. The globally renowned
vodka is known for its unique
Finnish heritage and crystalline
natural spring water. This pure
glacial vodka from the land of
Koskenkorva is known as the
nest vodka in the world and is
completely untouched by human
hands. Cheers to that!
(www.nlandia.com)
TRAVEL SMART
Ditch the travellers cheques and multiple
travel cards by opting for the YES BANK Multi
Currency Travel Card, which offers the
exibility to load upto to ve different
currencies even before your holiday begins.
The ready-to-use chip-based travel card can be
used at all MasterCard enabled merchants and
at ATMs for emergency cash withdrawals.
Besides, it even offers complimentary access
to airport lounges and other exclusive benets.
(www.yesbank.in)
Honeymoon
in Mauritius
Mark a unique beginning to your wedded life by
going for your honeymoon in Mauritius. Youll
have plenty to do here, from dolphin and whale
watching, lunch or dinner on a private island, a
cruise on a private catamaran or yacht to riding
an underwater sub-scooter and chilling out at a
couples spa and jacuzzi. More than 100 hotels
and resorts on the island provide a range of
packages catering to guests who are just
married. In addition to discounts on room rent,
they throw in a host of romantic value add-ons
such as free spa or beauty treatments, fruit
baskets, champagne, or private candlelit
dinners on the beach. (www.mauritius.net)
Relax,
Reinvigorate
and Recreate
The next time youre in the coastal
state for a relaxing vacation, make
Grand Hyatt Goa your base. Its
Shamana Spa is the ultimate in
wellness and recreation.
Embracing the mythical concept
of the monastery of the
Indo-Portuguese Palace,
Shamana Spa offers South-East
Asian treatments with a
contemporary approach. With 19
spa treatment suites, a tness
centre, lifestyle studio, indoor and
outdoor pools, whirlpools and wet
areas with sauna, steam and
plunge pools, this will be the
ultimate luxury break.
(http://goa.grand.hyatt.com)
FIT FOR
YOUR MAN
Gift that special man in your life a

piece from Hugo Boss BOSS
Menswear Collection Fall/Winter
2014. Inspired by Scandinavias
Nordic capitals, youll nd that
modern minimalism meets casual
details here and architectural
shapes work quite well with natural
fabrics and straightforward
colours. With a work-wear feel to
many looks, this will be ideal to
wear to the office.
(www.hugoboss.com)
Dedicated to
well-being
If youre a well-heeled traveller who pays special importance to

the concept of wellness, this is for you. The Westin Well-Being
Movement will have Westin hotels around the world open their
doors for a well-being open house, where guests, associates and
consumers can experience the brands signature programmes.
In accordance with this, the Westin Gurgaon New Delhi will have
a group meditation by the poolside amid an ambience that
showcases Westins 6 Pillars of Wellness through dedicated
experience zones. (www.starwoodhotels.com)
In Association With
Year 1
Designs by VIFF 2012 winner Aneeth Arora
The Vogue India Fashion Fund in association with the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) is a global initiative to promote the best
design talent from the new wave of Indian designers. Vogues commitment to provide the ultimate platform for young and aspiring
designers is back for its third season, to make fashion dreams come true.
The Vogue India Fashion Fund 2014 swung into action with
applications pouring in right from the month of February. Heres
a quick glance at what has gone by and all the excitement thats
still in store.
Ticket To Ride
Talented designers from across India send in their applications
from February to April. From the entries received, 20 best
designers are selected to move on to the next round.
business plans for evaluation. Of the 20, its narrowed down to

5 finalists.
The Big Five

The Top 5 are challenged to showcase their creativity in a
capsule collection presented to the jury in August, designed
as per a brief given by the judges who also pay a visit to each
designers factory.
The Chosen One

The Chosen Twenty
The Top 20 designers come face to face with the judges in June
to display their best designs, financial statements and strategic
The winner (and runners up) of the Vogue India Fashion Fund
2014 will be revealed at an exclusive event in October and then
announced in Vogues November issue.
MEET THE JUDGES
ALKA NISHAR
Chairperson, Aza Fashions
These are the best names

in the world of fashion and
will be closely watching
and judging each entry to
decide who the biggest star
of VIFF 2014 is going to
be. Heres presenting the
VIFF 2014 judging panel.
ANAITA SHROFF ADAJANIA

Fashion Director, Vogue India
BANDANA TEWARI
Fashion Features Director, Vogue India
OONA DHABHAR
Marketing Director, Vogue India
Year 2
PRIYA TANNA
Editor, Vogue India
SABYASACHI
Designer
VIFF 2013 winner Archana Rao with her designs
And the winner walks

away with....
/$%+*/$++0%*Vogue India
!.(+*#1/%*!//.!0%2!).'!0%*#)!*0+./$%,3%0$*
SUNEET VARMA
Designer
industry professional
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SUNIL SETHI
President,FashionDesignCouncilofIndia
TINA TAHILIANI PARIKH

Executive Director, Ensemble
!*0+./$%,".+)Vogue
1(%.!(0%+*//1,,+.0* )! %+2!.#!
DIRECTORY
FASHION
Burberry: Mumbai 022 4080
1990, New Delhi 011 4652 9850,
Bengaluru 080 4173 8826
The Collective: Mumbai 022
4343 8888 Corneliani: Mumbai
022 6631 1303, New Delhi 011
4604 0722
Ermenegildo Zegna: Mumbai
022 2284 4000, New Delhi 011
4686 9999
GAS: Mumbai 022 6180 1239
Gucci: Mumbai 022 3027 7060,
New Delhi 011 4358 3939
Heel & Buckle: Mumbai

022 4022 3354
Intimate Street: www.
intimatestreet.com Isharya:
http://india.isharya.com
Kenneth Cole: Mumbai 022
4347 4094
Louis Vuitton: Mumbai 022
6664 4134, New Delhi 011 4669
0000, Bengaluru 080 4246 0000
MR PORTER: www.mrporter.
com
Net-a-Porter: www.net-aporter.com
Pernias Pop-Up Shop: www.

perniaspopupshop.com
Sanctum: Mumbai 022
2649 5775
Thomas Pink: Mumbai 022
4023 6090 Tods: New Delhi
011 4666 2700 TOM FORD:
New Delhi 011 4103 3059
Tommy Hilger: Mumbai 022
6741 5225, New Delhi 011
2331 3758, Bengaluru 080
2521 6192
WATCHES & JEWELLERY
Anmol Jewellers: Mumbai
022 6129 6129 Azva: www.azva
vows.com
Breguet: New Delhi 011 3231
5645, Kolkata 033 2282 0626,

Chennai 044 2846 4096
Calvin Klein: Bengaluru
080 2206 7775 Cartier: New
Delhi 011 4678 8888 Chopard:
Mumbai 022 2288 4757, New
Delhi 011 4666 2834 CORUM:
New Delhi 011 6808 6800
Forevermark: Mumbai 022
6786 5555
OMEGA: Mumbai 022 6655
0351, New Delhi 011 4151 3255,
Bengaluru 080 4098 2106
Rose: Mumbai 022 2368
5288, New Delhi 011 4606 0953
Rolex: Mumbai 022 2651 5757,
New Delhi 011 4676 7777
PHOTOGRAPHS: ANSHUMAN SEN
Prices and availability of products and services by the following brands were checked at the time
of going to press, but we cannot guarantee that the prices will not change or that specic items
will be in stock when the magazine is published.
That was then
The Argentinian team at the 1930 World Cup.

Below: Uruguayan team members Hctor
Castro (right) and Pelegrn Anselmo (left)
after their victory over Argentina
URUGUAY, 1930
With the 2014 FIFA World Cup taking Brazil by storm this month,
Jonathan Bastable looks back to the rst of this superlative sporting event
PHOTOGRAPHS: GETTY
he 20th World Cup will take place

in Rio between 12 June and 13
July this year. In those four weeks,
football will be the lingua franca of bars
and front rooms around the globe. The
standing of each participating nation will
be measured in goals scored or missed,
and new national myths will be seeded
in and around the six-yard box. Of all
cultural activities, perhaps only music
binds people together like football can;
and only politics is so divisive.
This World Cup will involve 32
footballing nations. The first one, in 1930,
was a modest affair by comparison.
Uruguay was granted the honour of
staging the event, but most European
football associations declined to send
a team on the three-week voyage to
distant Montevideo: in the midst of a
global depression, it seemed a frivolous
expense. In the end, 13 sides turned up,
nine of them from the Americas.
A highlight of the group stages was the
match between France and Argentina,
in which the referee blew the whistle for

full time six minutes early. By the time
angry spectators had prevailed upon him
to rectify his mistake, the players were
in the bath. But they had to pull their kit
back on, return to the pitch and play out
the tie. Argentina went on to win

a place in the finals, as did the hosts.
The Belgian referee appointed to
preside over that crowning moment
insisted that FIFA buy him a ticket on
the first ship out of Uruguay after the
final whistle. In the event, Uruguay won
4-2, claiming the cup in their own capital
(a feat that every subsequent host nation
has dreamed of matching, but few have
achieved). There were riots in Argentina
after the game, while, in Uruguay, the
next day was declared a national holiday.
One participant from that inaugural
World Cup Final lived until 2010,
when he died at 100 years old. The
Argentine striker Francisco Varallo,
is the determined, young figure in the
foreground above. At the time, he
was known as Caoncitothe little
cannonfor his fearsome goal-shooting.
We were the better side, he once said.
And I still cant believe we lost. Eightyfour years on, this is the kind of talk
every football fan can still understand.
Room with a view

SWITZERLAND
The Alpina Gstaad, Oberbort
Panorama Suite
As you savour the breathtaking view,

ponder whether to try salty Bauernspeck
in the traditional Swiss Stbli restaurant
or wagyu chateaubriand in the deliciously
incongruent Megu outpost.
The active set will spend their days
shopping with international A-listers on
the promenade and schussing down any of
a few hundred nearby pistes. True lovers of
leisure can catch an in-house jazz trio or
watch classic lms starring erstwhile Gstaad
habitus, such as Audrey Hepburn and Grace
Kelly, in the plush cinema. When you do nally
slide into the suites open-air hot tub, let the
only distraction be the room service delivering
goblets of spicy glhwein. JOHN OSEID
CONTACT (+41 33 888 9888; www.
thealpinagstaad.ch) Doubles from
US$645 ( 39,550)
11
Bern
1.6 KM
Alpina
Oberbort
Gstaad
PHOTOGRAPH: URS HOMBERGER
fter intrepid alpinists started

conquering craggy peaks such as
those in the Bernese Oberland,
developers built lodges to accommodate
the new leisure class that followed in the
early-20th century. The towering Alpina
Gstaad, the only new luxury hotel to open
in the town in 100 years, emulates that epic
era. And yet, with its weathered planks
and handwoven Tibetan carpets, the ultradiscreet, Oberbort-area property has
a natty, chalet-like ambience.
Your 4,305sq-ft quarters has enough
verandas that you could easily get waylaid en
route to the hot tub on the Panorama Suites
second-oor balcony (above). Behind you, in
the private spa, a replace crackles under a
pitched timber roof, and delicate, white-winged
snow nches may land on the skylights.

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12 Cond Nast Traveller June-July 2014

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Who: JAMES BEDFORD What: British travel photographer

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