SEPTEMBER 2014
A-LIST
TRAVEL
AGENTS
YOU NEED
TO KNOW
Tel.+662-118-2211
www.ICONSIAM.com
Contents
Style Special
91
Features
102 The Emerald Canopy
Enchanting Langkawi,
land of ying and
mischievous monkeys,
and million-year-old
mountains, pulls M ER R IT T
GU R LE Y in and sends her
113
121
BY A N DR E AS L ASZLO
KON R ATH . ST Y LED BY MIMI
LOMBA R DO
134
INTERV IE WS BY J ERY L
BRU N N ER . PHOTOGR A PHED
T H A R AT H O R N S I T T H I T H A M
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
11
Contents
30
82
56
70
British Invasion
Hong Kongs new eats.
30
46
Street Smart
Jakartas coolest area.
56
Travel Solutions
Why its worth using a
travel agent; touring
Asia in the green
season; and more.
70
Strategies The
A-List, our annual
compendium of the
top travel advisors.
82
86
14
E D I T O R S N O T E
16
CON T R IBU T OR S
18
I N B OX
20
136
12
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T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: K AT E O W E N , C O U R T E S Y O F M A R T O N E C Y C L I N G C O . ; D A N N Y K I M ; S I M O N W AT S O N ; P O R N S A K N A N A K O R N ; C O U R T E S Y O F C O C O P R I V K U D A H I T H I
Radar
26
T+L Digital
#TLAsia
Expedia
surveyed
travelers in 24
countries about
the relationship
between their
beach vacations
and social media.
Heres what they
found.
instagram.com/travelandleisureasia
Available on IOS,
Android, Win 8
and Zinio Desktop Reader.
Visit Us
3
Facebook is the
most-used social
media route for
posting vacation
snaps, followed by
Instagram and
Twitter. Indians are
big on Facebook (83
percent).
Last-minute beach
deals influence
Thais the most (67
percent), followed by
South Koreans (65
percent) and
Japanese (64
percent).
A full half of
Singaporeans say
spa treatments are a
requisite of any
beach vacation.
14
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
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T+L Tablet Edition
1.
Social Beaches
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6.
f
1. Bali (@i a m m i k e ys a n c h e z ) 2. Bali (@ m e t m e t t i q u e )
3. Rawa Island, Malaysia (@ b e t z m m p)
4. Maldives (@ b e t z m m p) 5. Cambodia (@ m a r c a u x v i s u a l )
6. Sumilon Island, Philippines (@i a m m i k e ys a n c h e z )
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
Contact Us
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Editors Note
September 2014
Where Were
Going
Taipei
Siem Reap
The Maldives
New Zealand
The T+L Code Travel + Leisure editors, writers and photographers are the industrys most reliable sources.
While on assignment, they travel incognito whenever possible and do not take press trips or accept free travel of any kind.
16
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
N A P AT R A V E E W AT
WHERE TO FIND ME
chrisk@mediatransasia.com
@CKucway on Twitter
Contributors
Simon N. Ostheimer
Writer
Decoder: Phuket
page 136
David Chancellor
Photographer
A World Apart
page 126
Molly Jong-Fast
Writer
Into Thin Air
page 48
C L O C K W I S E F R O M TO P : C O U R T E S Y O F S I M O N O S T H E I M E R ; J E R R Y B A U E R ; C O U R T E S Y O F DAV I D C H A N C E L L O R
Inbox
The Return of Biarritz [July] proves that the best beach
destinations are those that reinvent themselves but
still maintain the spirit of the place.
Susan Coleman TEXAS
Backseat Driver
ARIZONA
Curry Favor
BRITISH COLUMBIA
NEW YORK
Hand-Pulled Hunger
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Radar
News. Finds. Opinions. Obsessions.
r e s tau r a n t s
INDIAN
SUMMER
P H OTOGR A P H ED BY A PA R N A JAYA K U M A R
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
25
Radar
BRITISH INVASION
Three British super chefs are stepping onto Hong Kongs dining scene,
adding star-studded restaurants that are sure to find a fanatic following.
The Brits are taking Hong
Kong by sweet and savory
storm. Roll out the red carpet
and get ready to make some
reservations, because U.K.export celebrity chefs Jamie
Oliver, Gordon Ramsay and
Will Meyrick have nally
opened eateries in this
happening harbor city.
Meyrick, whose explosive
Asian fusion restaurant has
been a culinary mainstay of
Bali since its 2010 debut, has
opened his second Mama
San (1F, 46 Wyndham St.;
852/2881-8901; dining
concepts.com; dinner for two
HK$700) in Central. The hip
dcorthink plush brown
leather banquettes
26
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
C L O C K W I S E F R O M L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F M A M A S A N ; C O U R T E S Y O F J A M I E S I TA L I A N ; C O U R T E S Y O F G O R D O N R A M S AY
chefs
Radar
r ec o n
THE LATEST
NEED-TO-KNOW
OPENINGS
b o o ks
LART DE VIVRE
Xavier Girards The French Riviera in
the 1920s (Assouline) captures that
indelibly glamorous era, a time and
place where Marlene Dietrich
sunbathed at the Eden Roc, Jean
Cocteau lived at Coco Chanels villa,
and Gerald and Sara Murphy threw
ftes in Cap dAntibes for Man Ray,
John Dos Passos, and Scott and
Zelda Fitzgerald. Characters became
legends, excess was in vogue and a
destination was born. nate storey
in an Art Deco
building in Mayfair.
The room to book:
ROOM, an
inhabitable
sculpture by artist
Antony Gormley.
Hotels First in a
+ Raffles Istanbul
series of boutique
properties planned
along the ancient
Tea Horse Road,
(raffles.com; doubles
from 385) takes its
place on the citys
booming skyline as
part of the cuttingedge Zorlu Center,
in Beikta.
Highlights: one of
the citys largest
spas and butler
service in every
room. + Namibias
far north now feels a
little less remote,
thanks to
LUX* Lijiang
(luxresorts.com;
doubles from
RMB1,382), flaunts
30 gold-toned rooms
inspired by the Naxi
ethnic group.
+ Chris Corbin and
Jeremy King, the
duo behind
Londons everpacked Wolseley
and Delaunay
restaurants, have
opened their first
hotel, the Beaumont
(thebeaumont.com;
doubles from 395),
Hoanib Skeleton
Coast Camp
(wilderness-safaris.
com; from ZAR5,556
per person); eight
tents have decks for
viewing the deserts
t ypography
Kelvin
Sutro
[No Filter]
Earlybird
Inkwell
Kelvin
Sutro
[No Filter]
THE PERSONA
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D A V I D A L E X A N D E R A R N O L D . I L L U S T R AT I O N B Y P E T E R A R K L E
THE FILTER
Earlybird
a f t e r da r k
F R O M T O P : C O U R T E S Y O F P I N G P O N G 1 2 9 ; C O U R T E S Y O F G &T C O C K TA I L B A R 2
Radar
spotlight
Lorenzo Martone,
founder of Martone
Cycling Co.
(martonecycling.com), is
no stranger to cuttingedge design. His range of
lightweight, bold-colored
bicycles has already won
fans such as Karl
Lagerfeld and Oliver
Theyskens, and now hes
celebrating the glories of
globetrotting with a sleek
new gilded bike model.
We decided on golden
tones as a reminder of
how privileged we all are
to have access to the life
we do, Martone says. And
what a life it is: in just two
years, his company has
ballooned from a passion
project to a global
business, with retailers in
10 countries, a number
that will double by the
30
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
P H OTOG R A P H ED BY P E T ER YA N G
K AT E O W E N , C O U R T E S Y O F M A R T O N E C Y C L I N G C O .
EASY RIDER
The Theatre
at Ace Hotel, in
Los Angeles.
cinema
CURTAIN CALL
AUTUMN
CULTURE
PREVIEW
t h e at e r
STARS ON STAGE
london Following
acclaimed performances
in Chekhovs Three
Sisters and Pinters
Betrayal, Kristin Scott
Thomas returns to the
Old Vic in Sophocles
Electra. Ian Rickson
directs the Greek tragedy
from a new adaptation
by Frank McGuinness.
Oct. 1Dec. 20;
oldvictheatre.com.
+ King Charles III, Mike
Bartletts outrageous
chronicle of life after
the reign of Queen
32
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T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
F R O M T O P : S P E N C E R L O W E L L ; S T E V E G R A N I T Z /G E T T Y I M A G E S ; G E O R G E P I M E N T E L / G E T T Y I M A G E S ; J A M I E M C C A R T H Y/ G E T T Y I M A G E S
Radar
music
Clockenflap
Festival, in
Hong Kong.
S H E A S TA N L E Y
australia
A raucous traveling act,
Stereosonic stops in Melbourne,
Perth, Sydney, Adelaide and
Brisbane over 5 days of musical
madness from a rotating line up of
more than 60 acts, including
Skrillex, Carl Cox and Porter
Robinson, to name a few. (Nov.
29Dec. 7; stereosonic.com.au).
hong kong
An outdoor music festival set in
the middle of Hong Kongs West
Kowloon Cultural District,
Clockenflap brings together a
line up of world-class acts. Last
year 30,000 people showed up to
watch Franz Fernand, Metric and
Four Tet headline, and 45,000 are
predicted for this year. (Nov. 28
30; clockenflap.com).
india
Held in the beach town of Goa
each year, the three-day
Sunburn electronic music festival
offers a well-rounded variety of
international DJs like Swedish
House Mafia, Avicii and Armin
Van Buuren; live musical acts;
and high octane vacation
activities like bungee jumping,
volleyball and zorbing, the sport of
rolling downhill in a plastic ball.
(Dec. 2729; sunburn.in)
japan
Ultra is roving from its traditional
home in Miami to make its
much-anticipated Japan debut
this September. The party is set to
be epic, held in a custom-made
event space on Odaiba and
featuring some of the worlds
Choreographer Liam
Scarlett leads a
rehearsal at the Royal
Ballet, in London.
Radar
art
da n c e
ON POINT WITH
LIAM SCARLETT
Boyish British choreographer Liam
Scarlett created Consolations and
Liebestraum, his first major work
and sensational hitfor Londons Royal
Ballet in 2009. Now the 27-year-old serves
as the companys artist-in-residence,
and this fall mounts world premieres
for New Yorks American Ballet Theatre
as well as the Royal. He spoke to T+L
about the new ballets and his cultural
agenda for the season.
Tell us about your first piece
for American Ballet Theatre.
Its a chamber piece with four couples,
debuting on the opening night of
ABTs 75th anniversary season. Im
looking forward to working with
the exceptional Marcelo Gomes and
the talented Misty Copeland and
Sarah Lane (Oct. 22Nov. 2; abt.org).
Why have you chosen to set
a ballet to Leonard Bernsteins
Symphony No. 2, The Age of
Anxiety, for the Royal Ballet?
Because its difficult, and I feel I can
take risks with my home company.
Bernstein was inspired by W. H. Audens
epic wartime poem, in which four
a r c h i t ec t u r e
NEW BUILDS
34
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AUTUMN
CULTURE
PREVIEW
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
sundaramtagore.com.
new york city
Cubism: The Leonard A.
Lauder Collection, at the
Metropolitan Museum
of Art, celebrates the gift of
an unparalleled collection
of works by Picasso,
Braque, Juan Gris and
Fernand Lger, each of
whom propelled Modernism
in unique directions.
Oct. 20Feb. 16;
metmuseum.org.
singapore Rare
porcelain pieces
from around the
world are being
showcased at the
Asian Civilisations
Museum in China
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: A N D R E J U S P E N S K I ; C O U R T E S Y O F A S I A N C I V I L I S AT I O N M U E S U M 2 ; P I E T R O P A O L I N I ; C O U R T E S Y O F T H E A S P E N A R T M U S E U M ; C O U R T E S Y O F C H R I S T I A N D E P O R T Z A M P A R C
SHOWS TO SEE
Radar
m y t ow n
Eat We go to Caf
Ansari (cafeansari.at;
set lunch for two 19)
time and again,
Christoph says of the
new Georgian spot
in Leopoldstadt, a
historically Jewish
neighborhood thats
now Viennas answer
to all things hip. I order
the Lammkibbe (lamb
meatballs with peppers
and tahini). Karin
loves to sit on the
cobblestoned terrace
it transports you to
another century.
+ Nearby, the couple
enjoy the Wiener
schnitzel at former
gasthaus Skopik &
Lohn (skopikundlohn.
at; lunch for two 52)
nearly as much as the
mind-bending ceiling
mural by Otto Zitko.
Its a cool hangout for
the local creative
crowd, Christoph says.
Shop The best place
for gift-shopping is
the Confiserie
Altmann & Khne
(altmann-kuehne.at), in
Innerstadt, Christoph
says. Ask for the small
chocolatestheyre
packed in the most
beautiful boxes, with
patterns from the
Wiener Werksttte.
+ He gets his accessories
down the street at Knize
(knize.at), a heritage
mens-wear shop thats
been making suits since
36
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
Radar
Pop-Up Charcuterie
Room at the Four
Seasons Bangkok.
dining
(fourseasons.com;
66-2/126-8866, ext. 1249),
a 20-seat wine and
Pop-Up Charcuterie
Room that was
b e au t y
SWISS
ADVANTAGE
healthy selection of
peppers stuffed with
ricotta, Sicilian olives,
herb-encrusted
sausages and goat
cheeses. The menu is
always evolving, so
making repeat visits is a
must before the venue
morphs into something
new. No date on that
just yet. Open Monday
to Saturday, 5 p.m. to
10:30 p.m.; dinner for
two Bt3,000.
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P : C H R I S T O P H E R K U C W AY; K A R I N H E R Z O G ;
C O U R T E S Y O F V A L M O N T; C O U R T E S Y O F L AT H E R ; C O U R T E S Y O F L A P R A I R I E
MacPherson
outside his new
Ludlow Hotel.
the insider
JAKE CHESSUM
Radar
goods
HIDE N CHIC
Add a touch of
texture to any fall look.
By Mimi Lombardo
1 Calf-hair-and-leather
pump, $425, by Vince.
2 Suede-trimmed calf-hair
clutch, $750, Nina Griscom
for GiGi New York.
3 Shearling-lined bootie,
$395, Belle by Sigerson
Morrison. 4 Shearling-andleather bag, $348, Diane von
Furstenberg. 5 Calf-hair
slip-on, $98, C. Wonder.
6 Leather-trimmed
shearling messenger bag,
$1,300, Coach.
4
5
40
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
P H OTOGR A P H ED BY YASU + JU N KO
Radar
Clockwise from left: Shanghai, old and new; outside Black Pepper;
traditional dishes with flair at Shang-Xi; old collectibles at a local
market; zipping around the French Concession in a sidecar.
weekender
42
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
THE CITY
IN A GLANCE
Getting Around
It is easiest to take taxis
but have your destination
written down in Chinese
and always ask for a
receipt or fa piao.
China in Focus
After your tour of the
shikumen, stop in at
Wang Gangfengs studio
(gangofonephotography.
com) to see his
often- comical work
from around China shot
during the past 30 years.
See the Light
Dont miss a glimpse of
Shanghais creative side
at DAFFDesign, Art
and Fashion Faira
show of pop-up shops,
art installations, craft
food and drink, and live
music. The next fair is
October 25-26 (daff.
tictcreative.com).
An All-in-One Getaway
Call it a destination within a destination.
Conrad Macao, Cotai Central, only minutes from the
citys international airport, is home to everything you
want, and its all under one roof. It really is its own city,
an integrated resort that will leave you wondering
when you can return as soon as you arrive.
GUESTROOMS
Home to 636 guestrooms and 24-hour concierge services, Conrad
Macao still manages to key on the little things to make your stay
VSHFLDO(DFKJXHVWURRPLVWWHGZLWKDQ03SOD\HUDQGL3RGL3DG
docking station as well as premium bathroom amenities by
Aromatherapy Associates. But this is no standard hotel: as an
ultimate convenience, theres also guaranteed early check-in, with
advance notice and space being available from the previous night.
DINING
Dont forget youre in Asia, where food tops most lists. Conrad
Macao is home to a global cross-section of menus. Dynasty 8
evokes the charm of old-world China, one that includes high-end
Chinese cuisine. Each of the eight private dining rooms is styled
after a dynasty so be sure not to miss the signature fresh king
SUDZQVZLWKFDYLDUDQGGHHSIULHGFUDEFODZZLWKYHVSLFHV$W
Grand Orbit, diners embark upon a culinary journey around the
JOREHHQMR\LQJ3RUWXJXHVHLQXHQFHG0DFDQHVHFXLVLQH&UHROH
Radar
on the map
STREET SMART
PO LI M V
JL N. PA NG
LI MA
Convivium
On the corner of Panglima
Polim IX and V, theres an
Italian caf and deli that
specializes in homemade
pasta and dessert, including a
wide assortment of artisanal
gelatos. Jln. Panglima Polim
IX No. 1; 62-21/726-9963;
facebook.com/conviviumdeli;
dessert for two Rp120,000.
Woodpecker Coee
Try this new Melbourne-style coffee shop,
by the owners of Common House, for quality
coffee and croissants. Jln. Panglima Polim V
No.23; 62-21/720-067; atelierkreasi.com.
Velodome Coee + C
and Taco Local
In an annex of Velodome Bike Shop, joining
the Taco Local restaurant, is a new in-house
coffee shop. Now, in addition to Taco Locals
famous zesty Mexican fare, you can get a
high-class cup of joe. Jln. Panglima Polim V
No. 38; 62-21/9494-9538; tacolocal.com.
46
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
Maris Store
Need new duds to match your new do? Check
out this streetwear-centric, multi-concept
store to t yourself out in fashion-forward
street labels like Made In Paradise or Tuff
Stuff. There are ample options for that
effortlessly hip look expected in the creative
district. Jln. Panglima Polim IX No. 15;
62-21/720-8681; maris.co.id.LAUREN SHIPMAN
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P R I G H T: C O U R T E S Y O F C O M M O N H O U S E ; L A U R E N S H I P M A N ; C O U R T E S Y O F M A R I S S T O R E 2 ; C O U R T E S Y O F C O M M O N H O U S E ;
C O U R T E S Y O F TA C O L O C A L ; L A U R E N S H I P M A N ; C O U R T E S Y O F C O N V I V I U M ; C O U R T E S Y O F A S G A R B A D A S S B A R B E R S H O P
Common House
This is the cure for the common
mall: shopping minus the crowds
and uorescent lighting. Instead youll nd
boutiques showcasing local designers,
rotating art shows and an organic restaurant,
in a setting thats all warm wood and natural
light. Jln. Panglima Polim IX No. 16;
commonhousejkt.com.
Radar
t+l p i c ks
AT WATERS EDGE
Five new seaside
hotels where you can
splash out in style.
COURTESY OF L A CARTE
maldives
The denition of bliss:
Maalifushi by COMO,
where Indonesian
thatched-roof bungalows
sit on stilts over a placid
lagoon, and you can
practice your pranayama
in guided meditation and
breathing classes. Be sure
to set an alarm; the Indian
Oceans fuchsia sunrises
are particularly vibrant
from your private plunge
pool. comohotels.com;
doubles from US$650.
bodrum, turkey
The Black Card crowd
has a new Mediterranean
hideout in the Mandarin
Oriental Bodrum, set on
two olive-grove-backed
beaches overlooking
the Aegean. After soaking
up some sunshine,
head to the spa for a
hammam treatment
using botanicals from
the resorts gardens.
mandarinoriental.com;
doubles from 745.
danang, vietnam
Live DJs, a beach club and
a rooftop bar with an
innity pool set a South
Beach Miami vibe at La
Carte, which is drawing
on Danangs rising buzz
factor. The loft-style digs
have spa-like bathrooms
and chefs kitchens.
alacarteliving.com; doubles
from VND3,108,000.
COLLEEN CLARK
additional reporting
by tim leffel.
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
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point of view
48
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T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
I L L U S T R AT I O N B Y Z O H A R L A Z A R
Radar
Radar
electrical current, accidental gunre,
medical complications, inhaling or
ingesting objects, drowning or being
crushed to death by a pig.
That said, being crushed by a pig
wasnt, in my dysfunctional mind, as
scary as being packed into a metal
tuna tin hurtling through space 9,000
meters in the air at 1,000 kilometers
an hour.
So after two sessions it was time
for EXPOSURE! The rst thing I did
was go to Westchester County Airport
to try out a ight simulator that
looked like a plane. I wasnt scared at
allbut I was also not in the air. The
pilot let me y the simulator and
while I had fun, it seemed sort of
irrelevant. I wasnt afraid; in fact I
crashed into the control tower (Im
not a great driver). But a few weeks
later it was time to try the real thing.
On April 7, 2013, I ew the Delta
Shuttle from LaGuardia to
Washington Reagan. I hadnt own
since August of 2003, just short of a
Radar
trending
DINE WITH ME
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P : C O U R T E S Y O F B O I N N O V AT I O N ; C O U R T E S Y O F S H I N Z O ; C O U R T E S Y O F S M I T H 2 ; C O U R T E S Y O F S H I N Z O
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
51
Radar
Modern art and
design inside
Transit Shed No. 1.
noticed
CHANGING TIDES
52
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T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
Radar
beyond. In a nation just
opening up after years under
an oppressive regime, the
re-emerging arts scene is
appearing in different
forms. While TS1 is clearly
more about style than
subversion, it represents a
growing condence in the
marketability and high
quality of Burmese arts.
The idea, according to
founder Ivan Pun, the
Oxford-educated son of
well-known Burmese
real-estate magnate Serge
Pun, is that culture,
commerce and cuisine are
the three anchors in a space
where events, retailers and
menus change regularly.
It shows you dont have
to journey out of the country
to get [internationalstandard] art and crafts,
says Nathalie Johnston,
director of exhibitions.
As well as the main
exhibitions, which revolve
every six to eight weeks, TS1
also hosts one-off evening
events promoting the work
of emerging artists including
music nights and
performance art events.
Something of a local
secret for now, it is
undoubtedly more popular
with resident expats and
Burmese people than
tourists and holidaymakers.
It attracts a clientele that
runs the gamut from
wealthy expats to the
trendsetting offspring of
Burmas renowned business
elite, all ocking to see
young creative types
showing off their talents.
The goods on sale vary as
widely as the crowd it draws
and visitors can spend
anywhere from US$20 on
trinkets to thousands of
dollars on hand-crafted
furniture and paintings,
54
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
Artist
Phyoe Kyi.
Radar
debut
56
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
Pull out your snazziest swim trunks and best flip flops for a
weekend at this flash new private island retreat, located
somewhere between the Indian Ocean and the lap of luxury.
Radar
Balis sweetest
newcomer. Below: A
locavore dessert.
desserts
BALI BRULEE
SYMPHONY
CONCERT
NOVA AMADEUS ORCHESTRA ROME, ITALY
SNOW WHITE
BALLET PRELJOCAJ, FRANCE
www.bangkokfestivals.com
Radar
field notes
FASHIONABLE ESCAPES
60
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: K O D I A K G R E E N W O O D ; S E R G E Y C H E R N O V/ D R E A M S T I M E . C O M ; C O U R T E S Y O F A M A N R E S O R T S ; C O U R T E S Y O F M I C H A E L K O R S 2
FIREWORKS
AND MUSIC
FILL THE AIR
Fireworks and music events in September and
October will make you enjoy Macau even more
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old world charms of Macau, lending credence to Macaus claim of
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.RUHD3RUWXJDO$XVWUDOLD&URDWLD3RODQGDQG6SDLQ
From October 3 to November 1, the 28th Macau
International Music Festival raises its curtain on an event that
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showcasing musicians from around the globe and for Macau itself.
This year, invitees include renowned ensembles and artists of
different musical genres, school and styles. In all, there are 25
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any who attend.
Radar
events
Ritz-Carlton, Millenia
(singaporegp.sg), theres no
need to fretyou can still
get your eetness x with
panoramic views of the
oodlit street circuit over
cocktails and hors doeuvre,
by checking into a club room
at one of the towering hotels
along Marina Bays skyline.
On Turn 6, Pan Pacic
Singapore (panpacic.com;
Pacic Club offer, doubles
from S$3,870) grants
exclusive access to its
38th-oor Club lounge for
Winning Formula
Get in the Formula 1
spirits at Caff B
(The Shoppes at Marina
Bay Sands; caffeb.com.
sg; 65/6887-3311;
drinks for two S$40). Try
the Fuel in A Formula, a
full-bodied cherry
brandy mixed with
cranberry juice and
Malibu rum; perfect to
get you revved up.
Closer to the action, The
Fullerton Bay Hotels
rooftop bar Lantern
(fullertonbayhotel.com;
65/6597-5299; drinks
for two S$45) faces
Turn 13. Sample the
Singapore Grand Prix
cocktails like the
Fullerton Hairpin: a mix
of vodka, Midori, peach,
strawberry, pineapple
juice and cranberry juice.
(swissotel.com; track-facing
Grand Prix package, doubles
from S$1,400) and Fairmont
(fairmont.com; track-facing
Grand Prix package, doubles
from S$1,150) on Turn 9
overlook the track, so you
can take in the high-velocity
thrills from the coziest spot
on your featherbed.
MONSICHA HOONSUWAN
64
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C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F S I N G A P O R E G P ; C O U R T E S Y O F S W I S S T E L T H E S TA M F O R D ; C O U R T E S Y O F T H E F U L L E R T O N B AY H O T E L ; C O U R T E S Y O F T H E R I T Z C A R LT O N , M I L L E N I A
Clockwise from left: Last years rip-roaring night race; view the floodlit circuit of
the Singapore Grand Prix from Swisstel The Stamford; special revved-up cocktails
at Lantern bar; watch the Formula 1 telecast over champagne at Treetops.
Absolutely Brilliant!
That really put me in a good mood.
Simon Cowell
THE JIVE
ACES
UKS NUMBER ONE JIVE AND
SWING BAND, UNITED KINGDOM
BLACK
DIAMOND
CONTEMPORARY BALLET,
DANISH DANCE THEATRE, DENMARK
www.bangkokfestivals.com
by Amy Farley
PLUS
THE
LIST
Q+A
WHY USE A
TRAVEL AGENT?
The rise of online booking and DIY
travel resources such as Airbnb
and Uber has, in many respects,
made travel easier. We can
compare fares, book hotel rooms
at the last minute via an app, and
find local guidesall on our own.
But here are four ways that a travel
professional can still save you time
and money (not to mention a lot
of heartache) on your next trip.
I L L U S T R AT E D B Y J AV I E R J A N
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
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Trip Doctor
The Fix
69
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BY THE NUMBERS
160
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
WHATS YOUR
PROBLEM?
MY AIRPLANE
SEAT
IS BROKEN!
Do...
VIP Treatment
Speak up.
Dont...
Despair. Flight
attendants may have
a solution (e.g., a
portable DVD player
to replace a broken
seatback system).
Do...
Dont...
Walk away
empty-handed.
When inconvenienced,
ask for compensatory
milesor at
least a free drink.
I L L U S T R AT I O N S , F R O M L E F T: J A V I E R J A N ; B E N W I S E M A N 4
BY THE NUMBERS
57
WHAT IS
A CODE
SHARE?
If a carrier issues
you a ticket for
a flight operated by
a different airline,
thats the result
of a code-share
agreement. This
happens frequently
between
international alliance
partners (SkyTeam;
Oneworld; Star
Alliance), but is not
restricted to them.
Be advised: not all
code-share flights
are equal in the eyes
of your frequentflier program;
some may not count
toward elitequalifying miles or
segments.
Small, regional
carriers frequently
operate short-haul
flights on behalf
of larger airlines.
Sometimes they fly
under their own
names, but often
they carry the brand
of their domestic
partner. The catch?
The service, as well
as on-time arrival
and even safety
records, of these
regional airlines may
not match those
of the carrier with
which you booked.
The U.S. Department
of Transportation
is considering new
rules that will make
it easier to see
who exactly is
operating
your flight. Until
then, look for
the small Operated
by notice when
you search.
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
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70
Trip Doctor
Strategies
Ponte
SantAngelo,
in Rome.
LIST
S I M O N W AT S O N
THE
7ULSOH1LJKWV'HOLJKWE\'XVLW
Stay two nights and receive the third night free!
For reservations, visit
THE
LIST
Super-Agents
These are the travel-industry all-stars,
with the knowledge and connections to make
any dream trip a reality.
Maita Barrenechea
With three decades of on-theground travel-management
experience in Argentina, Chile and
Uruguay, Barrenechea has
the friends and the industry
connections to arrange entre into
Buenos Airess fashion circles, an
equestrian getaway at a Patagonia
estancia or a high-roller beach
weekend on the Uruguayan coast.
Shes happy to see that travelers
are showing increasing interest in
lesser-known cities (including
Rosario, Argentina, with its
beautiful Art Deco architecture)
and in nature reserves such as
Puerto Valle, where Argentinean
ostriches and alligators roam.
Trend watch A handful of new
hotels and resorts are set to attract
luxury travelers to overlooked
destinations in Chile. The 22-suite
Via Vik is opening in October
on an 4,500-hectare vineyard in
central Millahue. Later this
Jack S. Ezon
Along with bespoke trips for
individuals, Ezon plans nearly 30
celebrations around the world
every year. To pull off these
events, he has a party-planning
department with unparalleled
global connections. Though Ezon
himself remains heavily involved
in the details, picking out birthday
venues in London, wedding bands
in Punta Mita and tasting menus
at Cape Town restaurants. A
former lawyer, he is an expert at
negotiating on behalf of his clients
and has a team that is skilled at
keeping up with the demanding
and often last-minuteplanning
pace of todays travelers.
Lisa Lindblad
Lindblads background in
anthropology is reflected in her
itineraries, which often include
neighborhood and cultural tours
led by historians and in-the-know
locals. All of her recommendations
are the result of in-depth research
done on behalf of clients. When
one recently expressed interest in
visiting the Dominican Republics
northern coast, Lindblad
flew there to scout hotels, houses,
guides and restaurants. She
thinks of every journey as an
opportunity for cultural exchange,
and hopes her clients end each day
with a story to tell. Trend watch
Trips are becoming multivocational, Lindblad says, noting
the ways people are engaging
with their travelsmaking videos
and learning new skills, such as
Guy Rubin
When Rubin moved to China
in 1994, he was surprised to find
a dearth of resources for
discerning travelers in a country
so rich in cultural heritage and
natural beauty. He and his wife
and partner, Nancy Kim, set out
to change that, and now lead
Chinas most ambitious luxury
tour operator. To keep up with the
countrys rapid transformation,
Rubin is constantly inspecting
hotelsBeijing has seen the
arrival of a Waldorf Astoria; a
Rosewood and another Mandarin
Oriental are still to comeand
developing new experiences. In
Hangzhou, he can set up a tour
of a pharmacy and museum with a
practitioner of Chinese medicine;
in Shanghai, hell arrange a
nightlife tour of the jazz scene.
Trend watch Rubin has seen
increased interest in Chengdu,
which is home to the giant panda,
the heart of Sichuan cuisine, and
the jumping-off point for a visit to
the ancient archaeological site of
Sanxingdui. A Ritz-Carlton
recently opened; Temple House
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ANDRE W HETHERINGTON
A view of Es Vedr,
a rock formation off
Ibiza, Spain.
Trip Doctor
Strategies
Pallavi Shah
When Shah evaluates a
destination, she goes beyond
simply checking out hotels and
restaurants. She dives into its
history and cultural background.
She is especially drawn to
experiences that connect travelers
with locals. In India, for example,
she asks her favorite designers
and craftspeople to open up their
houses and studios and show
guests the artistic process behind
their textiles, clothes and jewelry.
Trend watch A renewed desire
to visit wellness destinations,
ranging from sybaritic resorts
such as CastaDiva, on Lake
Como, in Italy, to top-notch
medical spas in Italy, Turkey and
India. Our Personal Guest, New
York City; 1-646/284-2454; opgny@
ourpersonalguest.com.
NOE DEWITT
Jim Strong
& Nancy Strong
Attention to detail from the first
meeting, accessibility (as a rule,
their phone is answered on
the first ring) and a contagious
Joel A. Zack
Concentrating on a small piece
of the worldPortugal, Morocco,
South Africa, Spain and
Turkeyand knowing these
destinations inside and out gives
Zack his edge. A dedicated team
Outside Lafayette,
a French bistro
in New York City.
HAWAII
Carolyne Brandon
Years as agent 32. Other specialty
Cruises. Altour American Express
Travel, Cupertino, California;
1-650/248-2344; carolyne.
brandon@altour.com.
Marilyn Clark
Years as agent 13. Other
specialty French Polynesia.
Lighthouse Travel, Huntington
Beach, California; marilyn@
lighthousetravel.net.
Ed Phillips
Years as agent 25. Other specialty
Alaska. Frosch Travel, Burlingame,
California; trvaler@gmail.com.
NAPA VALLEY
Michelle Murr
Years as agent 10. Other specialty
Personalized travel throughout
Italy. Azurine, San Francisco;
1-415/796-3869; michelle@
azurinetravel.com.
NEW YORK
Lia Batkin
Years as agent 8. Other
specialty Luxury travel.
In the Know Experiences,
New York City; 1-212/776-1784;
lia@intheknowexperiences.com.
PACIFIC NORTHWEST
Sheri Doyle
Years as agent 23. Other specialty
Canadian Rockies. Pacific Northwest
Journeys, Seattle; 1-206/935-9730;
info@pnwjourneys.com.
WESTERN U.S.
Harold Jenkins
Years as agent 26. Other specialty
Skiing. American Express
Corporate Vacations, Lake Forest,
Illinois; 1-615/714-9917; harold.
jenkins@corpvacations.com.
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
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Trip Doctor
Strategies
THE
LIST
Laura Woo
INDIA
Jonny Bealby
Years as agent 12. Other specialty
Central Asia. Wild Frontiers,
London; 44-20/7736-3968;
jonny@wildfrontiers.co.uk.
Carole A. Cambata
Years as agent 33. Other specialty
Bhutan. Greaves Tours,
Highland Park, Illinois;
ccambata@greavestvl.com.
Ashish Sanghrajka
Years as agent 13. Other specialty
Kenya. Big Five Tours &
Expeditions, Stuart, Florida;
ashish@big five.com.
INDONESIA
Jarrod Hobson
Years as agent 19. Other specialty
Southeast Asia. Asia Transpacific
Journeys, Boulder, Colorado;
1-303/443-6789; jarrod@
asiatranspacific.com.
JAPAN
Noriko Townsend
Banteay Srei, a
10th-century Khmer
temple outside Siem
Reap, Cambodia.
Duff Trimble
Asia
BURMA
CHINA
Rebecca Mazzaro
Stan Godwyn
MALDIVES
Justin Parkinson
CAMBODIA
See Super-Agents.
Andy Booth
Years as agent 9. ABOUTAsia
Travel, Siem Reap, Cambodia;
855-12/338-872; a.booth@
aboutasiatravel.com.
Guy Rubin
CHINA AND TIBET
Mei Zhang
Years as agent 14. Other specialties
Southeast Asia and North Korea.
EMERGING ASIA
New hotels and
experiences are taking
travelers off the beaten
path in Asia. Near the city
of Dali, in Chinas Yunnan
province, a recently
completed road circles the
alpine Er Hai Lake, below
the towering Cangshan
Mountain. T+L A-List
specialist Mei Zhang plans
trips to the area that
include bike rides around
the lake and stays at the
waterside Windoo Resort
(windoo.taobao.com).
According to Southeast
Asia expert Catherine
Heald, the 130-millionyear-old rain forests
of Borneo are increasingly
popular on both the
Malaysian and Indonesian
sides. The native
orangutan and the gigantic
rafflesia flower cant
be seen anywhere else
in the world, she says. Try
the Borneo Rainforest
Lodge (borneonaturetours.
com), in Sabah, Malaysia,
which has added luxe,
glass-walled suites.
Disconnect at Indias new
safari-style Jawai
Leopard Camp
(sujanluxury.com), an ideal
stop between Udaipur
and Jodhpur, says Carole
A. Cambata. The eight
tents are comfortable
and stylish; guests take
two leopard drives a day.
SOUTHEAST ASIA
Catherine Heald
Years as agent 9. Other specialty
Asia. Remote Lands, New York
City; 1-646/415-8092; catherine.
heald@remotelands.com.
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C H R I S T O P H E R W I S E . I L L U S T R AT I O N B Y C L A R E M A L L I S O N
Trip Doctor
Strategies
THE
LIST
Europe
Years as agent 17. Other specialty
Western Europe. Protravel
International, New York City;
1-212/409-9562; nathalie.nagy@
protravelinc.com.
Ellison Poe
Years as agent 28. Other specialty
India. Poe Travel, Little Rock,
Arkansas; 1-501/376-4171; epoe@
poetravel.com.
FRANCE
Murielle Blanchard
Years as agent 30. Other specialty
Italy. Black Pearl Luxury Services,
Salt Lake City; 1-801/483-6533;
murielle@blackpearlservices.com.
Bob Preston
Years as agent 8. Other specialties
Italy and Switzerland.
EuroPanache, New York City;
bob.preston@europanache.com.
Petros Zissimos
Years as agent 10. Other specialty
Turkey. Hellenic Holidays,
New York City; 1-212/944-8288;
pzissimos@hellenicholidays.com.
IRELAND
Carol Cornell
Years as agent 30. Covington
Travel, Fort Wayne, Indiana;
1-260/402-6789; carolc@covington
travelinc.com.
ITALY
Joyce Falcone
Years as agent 19.
The Italian Concierge,
Far Hills, New Jersey; 1-970/5443799; info@italianconcierge.com.
Emily FitzRoy
GERMANY
Virginia Giordano
Andrea Grisdale
GREECE
Uri Harash
Mina Agnos
Years as agent 13. Other specialties
Turkey, Spain and Italy. Travelive,
Bloomfield, New Jersey; 1-973/7833610; mina@travelive.com.
Christos Stergiou
Years as agent 10. Other specialties
Beth Rubin
Years as agent 14. Select Italy,
Chicago; 1-312/664-4200;
beth@selectitaly.com.
Marjorie Shaw
Years as agent 25. Other
specialty Family travel in Italy.
Insiders Italy, Rome; 1-914/4701612; info@insidersitaly.com.
PARIS
Yaron Yarimi
Years as agent 20. Other specialty
Italy. Frosch, New York City;
1-212/784-0391; yaron.yarimi@
frosch.com.
RUSSIA
Greg Tepper
Years as agent 20. Other specialty
Eastern Europe. Exeter
International, Tampa, Florida;
1-813/251-5355 ; greg@exeter
international.com.
SCANDINAVIA
Tor Jensen
Claire Schoeder
Years as agent 22. Other specialty
England explorations. Century
Travel, Atlanta; 1-404/478-8888;
claire@centurytvl.com.
SPAIN
Virginia Irurita
Years as agent 16. Other specialty
Food and wine. Made for Spain,
Madrid; 34/91-448-7275;
virginia@madeforspain.com.
SPAIN AND PORTUGAL
Joel A. Zack
See Super-Agents.
SWITZERLAND
Ilene Koenig
Years as agent 29. Lets Travel (a
division of Plaza Travel), Santa
Monica, California; 1-310/451-5805;
ilene@letstravel-sm.com.
UNITED KINGDOM
Ellen LeCompte
Years as agent 23. Other
specialty Paris. Brownell Travel,
Richmond, Virginia; 1-804/353-0075;
ellenl@brownelltravel.com.
Linda M. Raymer
Years as agent 30. Other specialties
Switzerland and Italy. Travelink,
American Express Travel,
Nashville; 1-615/277-5146;
linda.raymer@travelink.com.
Susie Worthy
Years as agent 28. Other specialty
Paris. NoteWorthy Events,
London; 44-20/3051-5165;
susie@noteworthy.co.uk.
WESTERN EUROPE
Jim Strong
& Nancy Strong
See Super-Agents.
76
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J A M E S M E R R E L L . I L L U S T R AT I O N B Y C L A R E M A L L I S O N
CENTRAL EUROPE
Nathalie Nagy
key
Fairmont Peace Hotel, Shanghai
Fairmont Singapore
happiness
Unlock more time to craft the perfect holiday in Asia
at a Fairmont Hotel or Resort. And the best part is:
you already have the key. Pay for your stay with an
American Express Card, and a complimentary night* is
yours plus US$25 Resort Credit.
From the grandeur of Shanghai and dynamism of
Beijing, to the cosmopolitan sights of Singapore, you
can find Fairmonts understated elegance in Asias most
enriching cities. Each property delivers a tailored guest
experience, one that will shape memories to last you a
lifetime. Heres to opening the door to a great stay.
Fairmont Makati
All legendary stories have a beginning. Start yours when you visit
www.fairmont.com/axpapac or call 001 800 0441 1414 with the promotion code
PMXP to make a reservation.
*Terms and conditions:
(1) Offer is valid for stays between 1 July 2014 and 31 March 2015 (both dates inclusive), when you book between
now and 31 December 2014. (2) Offer is bookable via central reservation numbers found on www.fairmont.com/
contact-us/morenumbers or online at: www.fairmont.com/axpapac. Promotion Code PMXP must be provided
at time of booking. (3) Bookings are subject to availability of rooms at time of booking. Advanced reservations
required. (4) To be eligible for the offer, reservations must be made and paid for with any American Express Card.
(5) Card Members must stay at least two, three, four or five consecutive paid nights to receive the complimentary night. Minimum night stay to enjoy the complimentary night varies by property. (6) Reservations must be a
consecutive night stay at one hotel to qualify. (7) Rates are subject to local taxes and service charges. (8) Offer
cannot be combined with other offers or promotions. (9) Cancellation policies vary by property and charges may
apply. (10) One (1) $25 USD Resort Credit per stay to be used on food and beverage, internet, long distance calls,
in-room movies, golf, or spa. Hotel Credit has no cash value and cannot be applied toward the daily room rate,
or for Third-party activities billed to the room. (11) Hotel credit will be applied toward the guestroom bill prior to
departure upon check out. (12) Hotel credit cannot be applied to Fairmont Store or other retail outlet purchases
within the property. (13) Black-out dates apply and vary by properties. For more details, visit www.fairmont.com/
promotions/limited-access/ (14) Offer does not apply to existing bookings or group bookings. (15) Fulfilment of
the offer is the sole responsibility of Fairmont Hotels & Resorts.
Trip Doctor
Strategies
THE
LIST
Caribbean
Years as agent 20. Other specialty
Destination weddings. Andavo
Travel, Birmingham, Alabama;
1-205/623-2217; margie.hand@
andavotravel.com.
Janet McLaughlin
Years as agent 25. Other specialty
Sandy Cunningham
Years as agent 19. Other specialties
Luxury and family travel. Outside
Go, Santa Fe, New Mexico; sandy@
outsidego.com.
Kent Redding
See Super-Agents.
Michael Lorentz
Jackie Rush
Lisa Lindblad
Dana Welch
MIDDLE EAST
Michael Diamond
Years as agent 13.
Other specialty Turkey.
Heritage Tours Private Travel,
New York City; 1-212/206-8400.
michael@htprivatetravel.com.
NAMIBIA
Sunit Sanghrajka
Chris Liebenberg
BOTSWANA, ZIMBABWE
AND ZAMBIA
Malaka Hilton
Craig Beal
Years as agent 9. Other specialty
South Africa. Travel Beyond,
Wayzata, Minnesota;
craigb@travelbeyond.com.
EASTERN AND SOUTHERN AFRICA
Dan Achber
Years as agent 6. Trufflepig,
Toronto; 1-416/628-1272;
dan@trufflepig.com.
Elizabeth Gordon
Years as agent 6. Extraordinary
Journeys, New York City;
1-212/226-7331; elizabeth@
ejafrica.com.
Tim Lapage
Years as agent 33. Other specialties
Peru and the Galpagos.
Safari Experts, Park City, Utah;
1-435/649-4655; safari@
safariexperts.com.
EGYPT
SOUTH AFRICA
Tamsyn Fricker
Years as agent 6. Other
specialty Southern Africa.
Travel Artistry Africa, Houston;
1-281/974-3662; tamsyn@
travelartistryafrica.com.
FAMILY SAFARIS
SOUTHERN AFRICA
Leora Rothschild
Cherri Briggs
ISRAEL
Rachel Epstein
Julian Harrison
Teresa Sullivan
Volker Altvater
Years as agent 28. Other
specialty South Africa. Big Five
Tours & Expeditions, Stuart,
Florida; volker@big ve.com.
AFRICAS NEW
CLASSICS
What are the camps and
lodges that safari
specialists have their eyes
on? Dan Achber, of
Trufflepig, is excited about
Chinzombo (normancarr
safaris.com), in Zambias
South Luangwa National
Park: Its beautiful and
impeccably finishedthe
complete package. Cherri
Briggs cites the new
Anabezi Luxury Tented
Camp (anabezi.com), in
the countrys Lower
Zambezi National Park, for
its untouched landscape
and abundance of wildlife.
Teresa Sullivan
recommends the Selinda
Explorers Camp
(greatplainsconservation.
com), set in a prime
Botswana concession:
The guiding and the
privacy are the same
as at the concessions luxe
sister camp, but at a
fraction of the price.
In Tanzania, Kent Redding
likes Kwihala Camp
(asiliaafrica.com), set in the
up-and-coming Ruaha
National Park. And Volker
Altvater says Richard
Bransons Mahali Mzuri
(mahalimzuri.virgin.com)
camp in the Masai
Mara brings new levels of
comfort to Kenyas
premier wildlife area.
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T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
C O U R T E S Y O F C A S A S D E L X V I . I L L U S T R AT I O N B Y C L A R E M A L L I S O N
Margie Hand
Paragon
Shopping
and Medical
Centre
Knightsbridge
al
Ex
pr
e ss
w ay
The
Centrepoint
Robinsons
ad
Orcha rd Ro
Orchard Road
Wisma
Takashimaya
Shopping
Centre
Orchard
MRT
O rc
250
h a rd
Bou
leva
rd
500
Mandarin
Gallery
Orchard Link
ION
rchard
tr
Bideford Road
ad
Scotts Ro
en
Cathay
Cineleisure
Orchard
313 @
Somerset
Som
erse
te r
Exe
750 m
a
t Ro
Ro a
t
erse
Som T
MR
Trip Doctor
Strategies
Australia,
New Zealand +
the South Pacific
Years as agent 8. Other specialty
New Zealand. Camelback Odyssey
Travel, Phoenix; 1-602/889-5902;
cassandrab@camelbacktravel.com.
Suzy Mercien-Ferol
Years as agent 20. Other specialty
New Zealand. Touring Treasures,
Brighton, Australia; 61-7/3102-3252;
suzy.mercien@touringtreasures.com.
Susanne Hamer
Years as agent 18. Other
specialties Maldives and the
Seychelles. TravelStore,
Los Angeles; 1-310/689-5411;
susanne.h@travelstoreusa.com.
NEW ZEALAND
Jean-Michel Jefferson
FRENCH POLYNESIA
Robin Turner
Donna Thomas
Biking at the
new Brando resort,
on Tetiaroa Island,
in French Polynesia.
DIVING
Robert Becker
Years as agent 28. Other specialty
Adventure. Protravel
International/Beckersphere, New
York City; 1-212/755-4550; robert.
becker@protravelinc.com.
FLYFISHING
Betsy Donley
Special Interest
ADVENTURE
BUSINESS TRAVEL
Betty Jo Currie
Steve Orens
Mollie Fitzgerald
Jennifer WilsonButtigieg
Brooke Garnett
Years as agent 9. Other specialty
Australia. Absolute Travel,
New York City; 1-212/627-1950;
bgarnett@absolutetravel.com.
Tom Marchant
Years as agent 8. Black Tomato,
London; 1-646/558-3644;
tom@blacktomato.com.
Susan Sparks
Years as agent 27. Points of Interest
Travel, Aspen, Colorado; 1-970/
925-5855; susan@poitraveler.com.
Doris White
Years as agent 26. Other specialty
Europe. Cadence Travel,
La Jolla, California; 1-858/551-4560;
doris@doristrips.com.
AIR TRAVEL
Michael Holtz
Years as agent 24. Other specialty
Australia and Asia. SmartFlyer,
New York City; 1-212/268-9088;
michael@smartflyer.com.
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S E P T E M B E R 2 014
Margery Hunter
Years as agent 30. Other specialty
Europe. Rudi Steele Travel,
Dallas; 1-214/522-2782; margery@
rudisteele.com.
DESTINATION
CELEBRATIONS
John Clifford
David Rubin
Years as agent 18. Other specialty
Destination celebrations.
DavidTravel, Corona del Mar,
California; 1-949/427-0199;
david@davidtravel.com.
GOLF
Jani Miller
Jack S. Ezon
HOTELS
See Super-Agents.
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
Peter S. Carideo
Years as agent 34. Other specialty
Multigenerational travel.
CRC Travel, Chicago; 1-773/5253800, ext. 22; peter@crctravel.com.
Bobby Zur
Years as agent 13. Other specialty
Southern Africa. Travel Artistry,
Franklin Lakes, New Jersey;
1-201/848-4113; bobby@
travelartistry.com.
LUXURY TRAVEL
David Lowy
Years as agent 28. Other specialty
Private jet travel. Renshaw
Travel, Vancouver; 1-604/733-1010
dlowy@renshawtravel.com.
SPAS AND WELLNESS
Karen Benson
Years as agent 31. Other specialty
Adventure. Camelback Odyssey
Travel, Phoenix; 1-602/266-4000
karenb@camelbacktravel.com.
VALUE/AFFORDABLE
TRAVEL
Kathleen OConnell
Years as agent 3. Other specialty
Multigenerational travel. Frosch,
Deerfield, Illinois; 1-847/948-5300;
kathleen.oconnell@frosch.com.
WEDDINGS
AND HONEYMOONS
Peter Lloyd
Years as agent 22. Other specialties
Italy and cruises. Century
Travel, Atlanta; 1-404/478-8888;
peter@centurytvl.com.
AUSTRALIA
Cassandra Bookholder
THE
LIST
Colchagua Camp,
in Chiles
Colchagua Valley.
Maita Barrenechea
See Super-Agents.
ARGENTINA AND CHILE
Jordan Harvey
Years as agent 5. Knowmad
Adventures, Minneapolis;
jordan@knowmadadventures.com.
BRAZIL
Martin Frankenberg
Years as agent 14. Matuet, So
Paulo, Brazil; 55-11/3071-4515;
martin@matuete.com.
Paul Irvine
Years as agent 11. Other
specialty Argentina. Dehouche,
Rio de Janeiro; 55-21/2512-3895;
paul.irvine@dehouche.com.
CENTRAL AND
SOUTH AMERICA
Emmanuel Burgio
Years as agent 12. Other specialty
Mediterranean. Blue Parallel,
Potomac, Maryland; emmanuel@
blueparallel.com.
CHILE
Brian Pearson
Years as agent 11. Other specialties
Argentina and Uruguay.
Santiago Adventures, Santiago,
Chile; 56-2/2244-2750; bpearson@
santiagoadventures.com.
GALPAGOS
MEXICO
Zachary Rabinor
Years as agent 20. Other specialty
Central America. Journey Mexico,
Puerto Vallarta, Mexico;
52-322/225-9821; zach@
journeymexico.com.
PERU AND BOLIVIA
Marisol Mosquera
Years as agent 17. Aracari Travel,
Lima, Peru; 51-1/651-2424; marisol@
aracari.com.
Beth Jenkins
Years as agent 5. Other specialty
Honeymoons. McCabe World
Travel, McLean, Virginia;
1-703/762-5048; beth@
mccabeworld.com.
Eric Sheets
Years as agent 18. Other specialty
Argentina. Latin Excursions,
Aventura, Florida; 1-305/356-8488,
ext. 100; eric@latinexcursions.com.
Brian Morgan
SOUTH AMERICA
SOUTH AMERICAN
FOOD & WINE
Barkley Hickox
Liz Caskey
Cruising
SMALL AND
LARGE SHIPS
Scott Kertes
Years as agent 24. Other
specialty Group cruising.
Hartford Holidays Travel,
Garden City, New York; 1-516/7466670; scott@hartfordholidays.com.
Paul Niskanen
Years as agent 40. Other specialty
Southern Africa. Cruise Masters/
Concierge Travel Advisors,
Portland, Oregon; pauln@fine
voyages.com.
Ruth Turpin
Years as agent 35. Other specialty
River cruises. Cruises Etc.,
Fort Worth, Texas; 1-817/732-6991;
ruth@cruisesetctravel.com.
Family Travel
SMALL SHIPS
Julia P. Douglas
Sam McClure
Kathryn Sudeikis
Betsy Patton
Jessica Griscavage
Kara Slater
Marcella Rappoport
Trip Doctor
Tech
Listen
Up!
Our five favorite
new headphones, all
sound-checked by
T+L tech correspondent
Tom Samiljan, deliver
top-notch audioand
serious style points.
FOR THE
AESTHETE
Skullcandy Crusher
Available in 10 colors
and patterns, this overear model delivers on
personality. But its
not all about looks. A
built-in amp lets you
turn up the bass with a
tiny dial, and twin drivers
(designated speakers for
high and low frequencies)
keep sound balanced.
US$100, skullcandy.com.
Best Buds
Two pocket-size options when space is at a premium.
NAD Viso HP20 (near left) The venerable brands in-ear debut has a feature
called RoomFeel, which offers such good sound separation, it rivals the full-size
models above. US$169, nadelectronics.com. Monoprice Enhanced Active Noise
Cancelling Earphones (far left) Affordable, powerful and effective against all sorts
of noise pollution, theyll last 50 hours on a single AA battery. US$80, monoprice.com.
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
FOR THE
ROAD WARRIOR
V-Moda XS
Made out of bendable
Steelflex, V-Modas
headband is virtually
indestructible. (The same
goes for the Kevlarreinforced, tangle-free
cord.) As for your listening
experience, expect a
studio-worthy output that
does justice to complex
instrumentations. Bonus:
This already-petite model
collapses for maximum
space efficiency.
US$212, vmoda.com.
P H OTOGR A P H ED BY DA N N Y K IM
E A R B U D S , F R O M L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F M O N O P R I C E ; C O U R T E S Y O F N A D
FOR THE
TECH LOVER
Beats Studio Wireless
The best wireless
headphones on the market,
Beats connect via Bluetooth
and offer active noise
cancellation and powerful
bass tones. A single USB
charge lasts up to 12
hours, and control buttons
on the frame make it easy
to toggle between tracks.
US$380, beatsbydre.com.
FOR THE
AUDIOPHILE
Bose SoundTrue
Memory-foam liners
maximize comfort, a
fold-flat design makes
for compact storage, and
a built-in remote lets you
switch between music
and phone calls. And then,
of course, theres Boses
signature full-bodied
and well-defined audio.
US$180, bose.com.
82
FOR THE
SENSITIVE LISTENER
Able Planet Linx Fusion
With a state-of-the-art
system that uses haptic
technology, this pair
channels sound not just
through your ears but also
via skin and bone. The big
advantage? Music thats
just as robust and clear at
decibel levels that are far
lower than normala boon
to your long-term hearing.
US$350, ableplanet.com.
Trip Doctor
Planning
by Diana Hubbell
Q+A
Nong Khiaw
100 Waterfalls
Adventure Trail,
in Laos.
Cabana
pool bar at
the Banyan Tree
Macau.
F R O M L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F B A N YA N T R E E , M A C A U ; C O U R T E S Y O F T I G E R T R A I L S
macau
Casino-hop till you drop
Youll never notice a downpour
amid the glitz and glitter of the
Cotai Strip. Asias answer to
Vegas has been booming to the
tune of US$45 billion a year and
all that cash keeps cropping up in
wilder ways. In 2017, Zaha Hadids
surreal creation for City of
Dreams will open, as will the
US$3.9 billion Lisboa Palace with
a Karl Lagerfeld-designed hotel.
In the meantime, never fear if the
weather turns foulyou can stay
warm and dry at the Banyan
Tree Macau, where even the
most affordable rooms offer
sweeping views. banyantree.com;
doubles from MOP3,099.
indonesia
Embark on a spa journey
Falling raindrops melt into
soothing background music as
masseuses gently knead away
your tension over the course of
three days. At the spa at The
Chedi Sakala, a newly opened
resort in one of Balis quietest
havens, the products are organic
and the surroundings are extra
indulgent. Your retreat begins
with a two-hour-plus
combination of crystal body
polish, bath ritual and facial,
then continues on days two and
three with Balinese, Himalayan
stone and other muscle-melting
massages. ghmhotels.com;
three-day spa ritual package from
Rp3,380,000.
the philippines
Dive beneath the surface
Whats a little extra water when
youre already wearing a full
wetsuit? Plunge into the Bohol
Sea for an exploration of at least
seven reef-fringed islands such as
marine sanctuary Apo Island and
dark-sand Dauin, teeming with
skeleton shrimp. Everything
from frogsh to whale sharks to
pygmy seahorses call this
biological hot spot home. And
since it can only be reached by
liveaboard boatslike the S/Y
Philippine Siren, a luxury vessel
hand-crafted from iron and
teaktheres nary another tourist
in sight. sireneet.com; six- to
10-night diving trips to Southern
Visayas from 1,950, including all
meals and equipment.
laos
Go chasing waterfalls
Green season isnt a
euphemismduring this time of
year the jungles come alive in all
possible shades of emerald. Its
perfect for trekking, particularly
when you march past mighty
waterfalls that swell
spectacularly with the extra
rainfall. On this journey from
Tiger Trails, an eco-friendly
tour operator that supports local
Lao communities, youll climb
along a series of increasingly
impressive cascades, culminating
in one spectacular 20-meter
aquatic avalanche. Tiger Trails;
laos-adventures.com; one-day
Nong Khiaw - 100 Waterfalls
adventure trail from US$74,
inclusive of food and guide.
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
83
Trip Doctor
by Mimi Lombardo
Packing
Q+A
IM TRAVELING TO
THE ITALIAN LAKES IN
MIDSEPTEMBER
FOR MY HONEYMOON.
ANY WARDROBE
SUGGESTIONS?
A wool-blend
dress from
Diane von
Furstenberg
(US$498) is
perfect for a
night out.
catherine gluszek,
via e-mail
Fall in northern Italy
calls for chic attire that
transitions well from
day to night. Opt for
layering pieces that dont
skimp on style.
Versaces
leather handbag
(US$3,895) is big
enough to hold
all your essentials,
and the bold
color is surprisingly
versatile.
Channel
fashion icon Sophia
Loren with Isabel
Marant par
Oliver Peoples
sunglasses
(US$365).
Rebecca Taylor
trousers (US$350)
are a simple dinner
staple, and
the ponte stretch
fabric will keep
you cozy in-flight.
Manolo Blahnik
embellished
mules (price upon
request) are a
great accent to
any ensemble.
W H E R E T O S TAY Villa dEste (villadeste.com; doubles from 740) is a grande dame that has hosted everyone from Greta Garbo to George Clooney.
Enjoy a cocktail at the terrace bar after a dip in the floating pool, which sits on top of Lake Como. At the Grand Hotel Tremezzo
(grandhoteltremezzo.com; doubles from 500), couples can treat themselves to Espa aromatherapy massages and fondue dinners at LEscale wine bars
cantina (cheese fondue for two 48). Book a recently remodeled rooftop suite with a private deck, Jacuzzi and 360-degree lake views.
84
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
P H OTOG R A P H ED BY VIC TO R P R A DO
S T Y L I S T: B I L L L A U G H L I N
For a tailored
approach to
outerwear, try
Lafayette 148s
lightweight
jacket (US$468).
H;@KL;D7J;?DIJOB;
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m^[h[h[ijWdZh[bWn_ij^[^_]^b_]^je\oekhijWo$Oekh
j^h[[d_]^jiijWo_dYbkZ[idejed["Xkjjme_dZkb][dj
jhWZ_j_edWbcWiiW][jh[Wjc[dj"ZW_boXh[Wa\Wij"WdZ
h[jkhdW_hfehjjhWdi\[hi$
JALAN PRATAMA 95 TANJUNG BENOA NUSA DUA BALI 80363 INDONESIA T (62) 361 775 216 F (62) 361 775 168 info@chedisakala.com
Trip Doctor
Deals
T+L R E A D E R S PECI A LS
86
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
(singaporeresortsentosa.com),
where the worlds largest
So SPA debuted in July in a
6,000-square-meter heritage
building. The Deal A stay in a
Luxury room. The Highlight
A choice of any 60-minute
massage per person from the
la carte treatment menu,
including the signature bodytoning So Exhilarating massage.
Cost From S$485, double,
ongoing. Savings 51 percent.
PHUKET Romantic Villa
Getaway from Mvenpick Resort
& Spa Karon Beach Phuket
(moevenpick-hotels.com), 10
kilometers south of Patong. The
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
S u pe r S ave r
SIEM REAP
Destination Sojourn
from Sojourn Boutique
Villas (sojournsiemreap.
com), a rice paddiesshrouded retreat. The
Deal Two nights in an
Apsara villa. The
Highlight A private
three-course
Cambodian dinner for
two. Cost US$279
(US$140 per night),
double, through
September 30.
Savings 61 percent.
Wellness
Trip Doctor
Deals
Active
Culture
VIETNAM Summer Promotion
2014 from Au Co Cruises
(aucocruises.com), exploring
the picturesque Gulf of Tonkin,
from the bays of Halong, Lan Ha
and Bai Tu Long to Cat Ba Island.
The Deal Two nights in a Deluxe
Double cabin. The Highlight
A complimentary night stay at
Sofitel Legend Metropole or a
full-day Hanoi city tour. Cost
US$1,028 per person (US$514
per night), through September
30. Savings 24 percent.
HONG KONG MAMMA MIA!
FANtastic Hotel Stay from The
Landmark Mandarin Oriental
(mandarinoriental.com), a short
walk from Hong Kong Airport
Express station. The Deal Two
nights in an L900 Landmark
suite. The Highlights Two
front-row tickets to MAMMA MIA!
show; two backstage passes to
go behind the scenes and meet
the cast and crew, for those who
stay through visitors-permitted
Wednesday or Friday nights.
Cost From HK$22,200 (from
HK$11,100 per night), double,
88
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
Romance
CHINA Romantic Getaway from
Sheraton Huzhou Hot Spring
Resort (sheraton.com), an iconic,
ring-like hotel complex on the
shore of Lake Tai, Chinas third
largest freshwater lake. The
Deal A stay in a Studio suite.
The Highlights RMB200 daily
spa credits per person with
access to a variety of hot spring
pools for two. Cost RMB2,888,
double, through December 31.
Savings 30 percent.
INDONESIA Colonial Romance
from The Sanchaya (thesanchaya.
com), a showcase of Southeast
Asian cultures in Bintan. The
Deal Two nights in a Lawan villa.
The Highlights A 105-minute
deep-tissue, pain-relieving
Balinese massage for two; plus, a
take-home massage oil set.
Cost From US$980 (US$490
per night), double, through
October 31. Savings 31 percent.
THAILAND The Green Season
Escape from Soneva Kiri (soneva.
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
Beach
PATTAYA Introductory rate
from Hotel Baraquda Pattaya
(hotelbaraquda.com), a rebranded
property with one of the citys
funkiest swimming pools. The
Deal A stay in a Deluxe room.
The Highlight Twenty percent
discount on food and beverages.
Cost Bt3,400, double, through
October 31. Savings 10 percent.
PENANG Our Weekday,
Your Holiday from Four Points
by Sheraton (starwoodhotels.
com), on Penangs secluded
COURTESY OF AU CO CRUISES
SUBSCRIBE NOW
TO OUR DIGITAL EDITION
Available at www.zinio.com
1 year / 12 issues for US$29.99.
Shop
Like
a
La Maison Fenyadi, a concept
store featuring ceramics in
Marrakeshs Industrial Zone
(219 Z.I. Sidi Ghanem;
212-524/336-201).
LocaI
Mitche, Jane Szita and Gisea Wiiams. Edited by Jacqueine Gifford and Katie James
Hong Kong Amsterda m New Dehi Marrakesh Buenos Aires Los Angeles
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
91
Hong Kong
#shoplikealocal
Fashion designer
Barney Cheng shares
his secret list of
bespoke shops.
Menswear La dolce vita-inspired
gentlemens wardrobe at
Moustache (31 Aberdeen St.;
moustachehongkong.com) comes
lined in exquisite vintage silks.
Great value silk chambray
digitally printed scarves are top
nds at MODELE de PRUDENCE
(modeledeprudence.com.hk). I also
like Mayers (Mandarin Oriental, 5
Connaught Rd.; 852/2524-3317)
crocodile loafers and rainbowtoned crocodile business card
holders. The Amourys (307 Pedder
Bldg.; 12 Pedder St.; thearmoury.
com) vast array of umbrellas, ties
and bespoke suits adds intrigue to
any ensemble.
Browsing The best neighborhood
for leisurely window-shopping is
Tai Hang village. Pop into
Feelsogood (4 Second Ln.) to
peruse the vintage furniture, then
stop by Lab Made Liquid
92
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
Amsterdam
#shoplikealocal
At Home with
Cok de Rooy
Hutspot (4 Van
Woustraat; hutspot
amsterdam.com) is
a hip concept storeI like
the vibrant atmosphere
and the on-site barbershop.
Youll discover pieces from
emerging designers (plaid
blankets by Flink; Veloretti
bikes). Wonderwood
(3 Rusland; wonderwood.nl)
specializes in furniture
from the 1940s, 50s and
60s. They have more than
100 styles of chairsboth
vintage and new designs.
Marcel Wanders is the
biggest design star Holland
has produced thus far. When
you enter his showroom,
Moooi (187 Westerstraat;
moooi.com), you experience
his world. Its a must.
Good Jeans
Leave the Levis at home: the Dutch are known for
their denim brands, making Amsterdam the perfect
place to pick up a pair with a unique pedigree.
Denham the
Jeanmaker
English expat Jason
Denhams high-end
line combines
premium Japanese
selvage denim with
a traditional approach
to tailoring (leg darts;
signature seven-point
pockets). The flagship
(8 Hobbemastraat;
denhamthejeanmaker.
com) has the largest
selection.
G-Star Raw
Famous for using
unwashed, untreated
fabric, G-Star Raw
(24-28 P.C. Hooftstraat;
g-star.com) produces
boyfriends and
skinnies that are
practically indestructible.
Also look out for
their more grown-up
Marc Newson and
Correct Line ready-towear collections.
Kuyichi
Sustainable organic
cotton and all-natural
indigo dyes are some
of Kuyichis ethical
trademarksbonus
points for the streetstyle cred. Find
them at Maison de
Bonneterie (140-142
Rokin; debonneterie.nl)
and Nukuhiva
(36 Haarlemmerstraat;
nukuhiva.nl).
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De Kinderfeestwinkel
The European antidote to Toys R
Us, this colorful spot stocks an
eclectic mix of toys, costumes
and gameseverything you need
to host a kids party. 65 Gerard
Doustraat; kinderfeestwinkel.nl.
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F K I N G S O F I N D I G O ; M I Q U E L G O N Z A L E Z ; C O U R T E S Y O F C O K D E R O O Y; M I Q U E L G O N Z A L E Z 4
From far
left:
Kings of
Indigo (K.O.I.)
jeans;
Denham the
Jeanmaker.
New Dehi
#shoplikealocal
En Inde designer
Anupama Sukh
Lalvani creates
This handcrafted
sheet-metal vanity
case with leather
straps from Nappa
Dori reinterprets (and
miniaturizes) the
iconic steamer trunk.
21 Inner Ln.;
nappadori.com;
US$340.
scents
of
p l a ce
One of Code Decos Detour travel series fragrances, Thar in Pink is perfumer Gauri Garodias love song to the rugged
terrain of Rajasthan. I wanted to re-create the colors of the desert sunsetfuchsia, orange and amberso the top note has
the dry, spicy freshness of marigold, Garodia says. It settles into a golden glow, like a bronzer, on your skin. Find it at
Second Floor Studio (417 Shahpur Jat; 91-11/4142-0324; US$116), the creative playpen of Punit Jasuja, located in buzzy
Shahpur Jatan urban village of stylish boutiques, cafs and galleries.
PHILIP FRIEDMAN
Karma
Chameleons
Our outrageous
obsession: 18-karatgold-plated coral-andpearl Gazelle earrings
by Delhi-based designer
Manish Arora for famed
jewelry atelier Amrapali.
39 Khan Market;
amrapalijewels.com;
US$1,029.
Marrakesh
#shoplikealocal
F R O M T O P : A LV A R O L E I V A ; R I C A R D O C A S E S
Guliz
In contrast to the labyrinthine
medina, this is a district of wide
boulevards. We walk
everywhere, say expats Samuel
and Caitlin Dowe Sandes,
founders of Popham Design, a
tile studio. Laetitia Trouillet is the
citys go-to personal shopper. Her
atelier, Studio Lalla (5 Rue de
Libert; 212-6/6147-7228),
showcases boho handbags along
with jewelry by Parme Marin,
Caitlin says. Make an
appointment at Fennwerk (148
Ave. Abdelkrim El Khattabi #B4;
fennwerk.com), to peruse Nicolas
Carrs tribal rugs and
Midcentury furniture. Browse
33 Rue Majorelle (33 Rue Yves
Saint Laurent; 33ruemajorelle.com)
for cups and plates by Chabbi Chic
and couture from Noureddine
Amirfinish up at the little caf
for juice and a salad.
Buenos Aires
#shoplikealocal
Cabinet seo
On our site, we sell
these conceptual
metal pieces that
mimic human
anatomyphalanx
necklaces (shown),
heart-shaped
pendants, and
fingerprint-etched
bangles. See
cabinetoseo.com
for store locations.
From left:
Sofa, Catalina
and Luca
Sanchez
Barrenechea.
Tramando
Ive been wearing Martn Churbas
collections for yearshe is a textile artist
and genius when it comes to prints!
He also recently added home dcor to
his flagship boutique in Recoleta.
1973 Rodriguez Pea; tramando.com.
Sister Act
Sofa, Catalina and Luca Sanchez Barrenechea,
founders of underoursky.coman online
mecca for Argentinean fashion and interiors
reveal their B.A. must-haves.
Sofas picks
Lucas picks
Gil Antigedades
For 30 years, Horacio
and Mara Ins Gil
have built an impressive
arsenal of vintage
clothing, jewelry,
tablecloths, fans, parasols,
figurines and more.
412 Humberto 10, 1F;
gilantiguedades.com.ar.
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Celedonio
From his workshop in the
hidden courtyard of an old
residential building, Celedonio
Lohidoy draws inspiration from
nature and wildlife for his
spectacular costume jewelry
accented with pearls, crystals
and gems from northern
Argentina. 1223 Uruguay,
apt. 8; celedonio.com.ar.
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: H A N N A H T H O M S O N ; C O U R T E S Y O F C A B I N E T S E O ; C O U R T E S Y O F T R A M A N D O ; C O U R T E S Y O F A I R E D E L S U R ; C O U R T E S Y O F C O M M E I L F A U T; J A V I E R P I E R I N I 2 ; C O U R T E S Y O F G I L A N T I G U E D A D E S
Catainas picks
Los Angees
3
4
#shoplikealocal
2
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P : D A N N Y K I M ; B R I D G E T P I Z Z O ; C O U R T E S Y O F M E & B L U E ; C O U R T E S Y O F T H E G O L D E N S TAT E S T O R E ; J E N N I F E R C A W L E Y; L I LY K I N G ; R E B E C C A J O H N S O N
Matters of Space
Founders P. J. Roden and Katerina Gabbro
offer interior design services, plus custom
furnishings and fine arts and crafts.
5005 York Blvd.; mattersofspace.com.
Clothing
ME & Blue
Owner M. E. Ster-Molnar specializes
in wear-anywhere bohemian
tunics and hand-dyed vintage slips.
566 Rose Ave.; meandblue.com.
9
6
Concept Stores
YORK BOULEVARD,
HIGHLAND PARK
Design Showrooms
Honeywood Vintage
Nouveau hippies clamor for Vanessa
Dingwells embroidered cotton dresses,
serapes and Mexican folk-art textiles.
5117 York Blvd.; honeywoodvintage.com.
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
flavor: blackberry
lemon verbena.
720 N. Virgil Ave.;
sqirlla.com; US$12.
6. Malibu Honey
Were hooked on
this pure, aromatic
nectar produced by
bees that feed on
wildflowers and sage
from Santa Monica
and the San Gabriel
Mountains. 564 Rose
Ave., Venice; malibu
honey.com; US$16.
7. Farmer Daves
Roasted Hot Nuts
Almondsthe official
snack of Hollywood
fire-blasted with
habanero, vinegar
and tomato paste.
511 Rose Ave., Venice;
farmerdavescher.com;
US$12.
8. Chili-Covered
Pineapple
This dried-fruit treat
delivers tiki taste
with a Mexican
kickall in one bite.
A&B Coffee, 317 S.
Broadway; 1-626/
716-0705; US$2.50.
9. Little Doms
Pickled Green
Tomatoes
Bread-and-butter
pickling and a hot jolt
of crushed red
pepper amp up a
Southern specialty.
2128 Hillhurst Ave.;
littledoms.com;
US$8.
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September
2014
Unmarried Kara
tribeswomen, with
ceremonial body
paint, near Dus, in
Ethiopias Omo River
Valley, page 126.
Features
DAV I D C H A N C E L L O R
102 Langkawi
114 Pingyao, China
116 Asias New Spa
Specialists
122 Trendsetters on
Travel
126 Ethiopia
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LUXURY
MONKEYS.
B O T T O M R I G H T: C O U R T E S Y O F F O U R S E A S O N S
I S H O U L D B E C O N C E R N E D, but a monkey
party sounds fun. Besides, macaques learning to
pop champagne corks is just the tip of the
evolutionary-oddity-iceberg in this collection of
99 tropical islands off the northwestern coast of
peninsular Malaysia that includes some of the
weirdest animals, from ying lemurs to walking
sh, and oldest landforms known to man.
Ninety-nine magical islands? Youve heard this
slogan? ecologist Farouk Omar asks me as we
motor through the mangroves. I nod, ready to
gush, but he goes on: They arent islands; theyre
sea stacks. Just rocks really, but I guess ninetynine magical rocks doesnt sound as good.
No, Farouk, it doesnt. But if hes trying to
keep me grounded, hes failing. The boat tour hes
leading is only gelling my impression that
Langkawi is thoroughly enchanting. As we get
further into the wetlands, the vines weave into
an arch overhead and I can sense the age of the
land. It even smells old; millions of years of life
and death, ood and drought, growth and rot,
have given the earth a rich zoetic cologne. In
2007, Langkawi was awarded World Geopark
status by UNESCO and, according to their research,
most of this archipelago rose to the surface 220
million years agothough the islands oldest
geological formation, Mat Cincang Mountain,
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may have risen from the seabed twice as long ago, following the
breakup of the supercontinent Pangea. This would have been during
Cambrian era, a period of great proliferation of life on Earth, and
modern-day Langkawi still reects that biodiversity, both in its wide
range of topography and its miscellany of animals (there are 503
different species of butteries alone). Naturally, theres been an
upsurge of luxury resorts that are designed, from architecture to
operations, to dazzle visitors with this veritable petri-dish of earthly
wonders. It was the mid 1800s when evolutionary biologist Alfred
Russel Wallace reected, The very nest eld for an exploring and
collecting naturalist was to be found in the great Malayan
Archipelago. Im 150 years behind him, but I intend to bask in those
same peculiarities of olden extant species.
like a reptile, Hussein
tells me pointing to the bark of a tree. Every rustle in the kelly tangle
hides some furtive animal action. I squint in the direction she is
indicating but, though Ive spotted kingshers, hornbills, otters and
squirrels already in the past hour, now I cant see a thing. In this
dipterocarp jungle the trees fruit and ower at such towering heights
that the forest oor is left dimly lit and sparsely populated. Every
felled tree spawns a urry of growth as saplings compete for the
prized patch of light and climb eagerly towards the vacant spot in the
vertiginous canopy. The whole ecosystem revolves around height,
with animals forced to nd their way into the treetops in search of
foodone result of which is the abundance of more than 230 species
of birds. Local folklore has it that the name Langkawi comes from a
shortened version of the Malay word for eagle, helang, and kawi,
which means reddish brown: Red Eagle Island.
There are a few unexpected additions to the airborne family, as
wellcreatures that evolved the gift of glide. Theres the ying frog,
whose wide webbed feet allow it to drift through the air. The ying
lizard relies on an extra membrane around its throat, like a bullfrog,
to launch from tree to tree. The ying snake winds up tree trunks,
then hurls itself from high branches and attens its body to catch the
draft as it cruises towards its unsuspecting victims below.
And what Im blinking at? The enigmatic colugo, or ying lemur.
For years nobody was able to classify this animal. It looks like a big
squirrel, its long nails allow it to hang upside down like a bat, and it
uses the extra aps of skin between its legs to sail through the
heights. In 2002, DNA testing shed some light on the mysterious
mammal, revealing that it is, in fact, a primate. But that simple
answer doesnt satisfy everyone. The DNA does not suit the
behavior, Hussein says. A monkey does not look like this. A monkey
does not y.
Monkeys also dont booze it up, but Hussein says, I have seen them
do it. And, although snakes are not known to amuse themselves with
playground equipment, there, back at the resort, is a giant king cobra
slithering from a low-hanging tree down onto the kids waterslide. I
have chills, a young American woman tells me as, in the relentless
tropical heat, she tugs up her sleeve and wags her goose-pimply arm
at me as proof. I give her a courtesy nod but, like everybody else in the
thickening throng, my eyes are glued to the largest venomous snake
in the world. Though its just a pipsqueak in king cobra terms, it is still
thicker than my calf and at least 3 meters long. Can you imagine
being in the pool and having that thing come sliding right at you? the
woman asks me. Surprise! Its the Jungle Book, but for real and were
all going to die.
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E A G L E , M A N G R O V E A N D B O AT: C O U R T E S Y O F F O U R S E A S O N S
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F I S H E R M A N B O AT, M O U N TA I N A N D M O N K E Y: C O U R T E S Y O F F O U R S E A S O N S
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T L Guide
Getting There
There are daily ights
from Kuala Lumpur and
Penang to Langkawi on
AirAsia (airasia.com),
Malaysian Airlines
(malaysiaairlines.com)
and Malindo Air
(malindoair.com).
STAY
Four Seasons Langkawi
This sprawling seafront
estate has an adults-only
swimming pool and a thick
1.6-kilometer-long private
beach for multiple lounge
options. The concierge can
arrange rock climbing and
archery in the jungle
playground behind their
property. Jln. Tanjung Rhu,
Mukim Ayer Hangat; 60-4/
950-8888; fourseasons.
com/langkawi; doubles
from RM1,780.
Meritus Pelangi Resort
& Spa Designed in the
style of a Malay village,
this tropical resort has 352
guestrooms and suites
peppered across 14 wellmanicured hectares of
beachfront. Pantai Cenang;
60-4/952-8888;
meritushotels.com; doubles
from RM850.
The Andaman, Langkawi
Tucked between the jungle
and Datai Bay, the recently
refurbished rooms have
oor-to-ceiling windows
oering exceptional views.
Jln. Teluk Datai; 60-4/9591088; theandaman.com;
doubles from RM1,900.
EAT
Privilege Restaurant
and Bar A mix of modern
and classic Malaysian
gastronomy, located right
on Telaga Harbour. B8, 1F
Perdana Quay, Telaga
Harbour Park, Pantai Kok;
60-4/956-1188;
privilegerestaurant.com;
dinner for two RM90.
Kuah Town Seafood
Far from fancy but
brimming with local avor,
this restaurant is a sister
enterprise of the
community favorite
Looking toward
the City Tower
along Ming
Qing Street, in
Pingyao.
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116
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License
to
Heal
F I N G E R - D A N C I N G FAC I A L S , YO G A- F U E L E D C L E A N S E S , D O C T O R D E L I V E R E D P E D I C U R E S : J E N I N N E L E E-S T. J O H N P U T S H E R H E A LT H A N D
B E AU T Y I N E X P E R T H A N D S. I L L U S T R AT E D BY WA S I N E E C H A N TA KO R N
SOMETIMES,
the most
perfect pairings are hiding right under your
nose Or, for the sake of this discussion, your
toes. We live in a region obsessed with and awash
in wellness centers but, talented though many
therapists are, rote techniques and repetitive
menus can make it hard to distinguish among
them. Thats why I suggest you take a careful
reading of the spa offerings on your next vestar getaway. Because some of them are calling
on the credentialed to bring innovative
techniques that will make you wonder, Why
didnt they think of that before? Now emerging in
Asia: a wave of cross-disciplinary aestheticians,
healers with unexpected, yet perfectly tting,
certications tailoring their particular brand of
expertise to methods of making you feel better,
and look better too.
I recently rode that wave right into an
ergonomic leather recliner, with my legs propped
up, and under the spotlight. It felt like a dentists
chair, except the spotlight was not to inspect my
teeth but my toes, and the questions from the
assistantHow far back would you like to lie
down? What type of tea do you take? How strong
do you like your massage?Im pretty sure have
never been asked by a dental hygienist. In a little
Bill Bensley-designed mod hut mere steps from
the South China Sea, the lapping of waves
outside mingling with the rooms trance-y
Apsara mood music, I settled in for my
appointment with the podiatrist.
I was there to get a pedicure, and the draw and
unimpeachable logic of the Studio by Bastien
Gonzalez pedicurewhether at its eight-monthold spot at the InterContinental Danang Sun
Peninsula in Vietnam, where I had it, or at the
other Asia-Pacic locations in China, Maldives,
Singapore, Thailand, and, breaking news,
Australiais that they are all conducted by
actual foot doctors, whom you can trust to keep
their tools clean and to prioritize health. Bien sr
it was a Frenchman who came up with this
concept of the medical-beauty foot-love mlange.
For this is no clinical consultation; caresses were
involved, ladies.
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This is no
clinical
consult;
caresses
were
involved,
ladies
Dr.
Kapoor
was right:
I felt
weightless
and pure
for days
T L Guide
PEDI:MANI:CURE
Studio by Bastien
Gonzalez Visit
bastiengonzalez.com for
information on all studio
locations; InterContinental
Danang Sun Peninsula in
Vietnam, danang.
intercontinental.com,
Bastiens Duo
VND3,200,000.
Six Senses Yogic Detox
Visit sixsenses.com for
information on all spa
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Four trendsetters
reveal their
travel essentials
and their favorite
destinations.
SENSE OF ADVENTURE
PHIL WINSER
Restaurateur and co-owner
of N.Y.C. hot spots the
Fat Radish, the East Pole
and the Leadbelly
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M A R K E T E D I T O R : C O U R T N E Y K E N E F I C K . H A I R A N D M A K E U P : B R I T C O C H R A N F O R L A N C M E AT A R T D E P A R T M E N T W I N S E R , H A L L A N D C L E V E L A N D . L A U R A P R E P O N : H A I R B Y D O N A L D F R A N C I S . M A K E U P B Y L E Y D A Q U I N T E R O
THE
WAY
I
TRAVEL
LAURA PREPON
Actress, starring in the
Netflix original series
Orange Is the New Black
CABIN COMFORT This
oversize Gucci cashmere
shawl was one of my first big
purchases after I started on
That 70s Show. I always carry
it on to use as a blanket.
I love it, because it brings
me back to those days.
GETTING LOCAL Ive been
to a lot of cities in Europe,
and Stockholm is a favorite.
I enjoy biking to South
Island to discover more indie
neighborhoods. The fish at
Sturehof (sturehof.com) is
unbelievable, and Gold Bar
(nobishotel.se), at the Nobis
Hotel, is the best place to
grab a drink. NEXT TRIP I
want to pass through the
Sun Gate and finally see
Machu Picchu.
CARTER CLEVELAND
Founder and CEO of Artsy,
a next-generation online
resource for contemporary art
FUNCTIONAL FORM My
Cte & Ciel Isar Rucksack is
sturdy and durable, with
compartments to organize
my travel essentials:
laptop, iPhone, Kindle,
adapters and earplugs.
UNFORGETTABLE JOURNEY
I recently traveled to
Tel Aviv with a group of
Silicon Valley entrepreneurs
and met Israels prime
minister, Benjamin
Netanyahu, and the mayor
of Jerusalem, Nir Barkat.
It was exciting to learn how
theyve made technology
a critical part of their
countrys success.
I also visited the Tel Aviv
Museum of Art (tamuseum.
org.il), where I saw a
comprehensive show by
Brazilian artist Vik Muniz,
plus works by some of
my favorite artistsShirin
Neshat, Anselm Kiefer
and Max Ernst. NEXT TRIP
Im heading to Istanbul
soon for the first time.
LENA HALL
Tony Awardwinning
performer in Hedwig and
the Angry Inch; lead
singer of the Deafening
a spontaneous, two-week
trip to Paris last October,
when the air was cool and
crisp. My parents were both
professional ballet dancers,
so I attended a performance
by students of the Ballet
School at the Paris Opera
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On a trip
through remote
southern Ethiopia,
GUY TREBAY
encounters
the last remaining
tribes of the
Omo River Valley
and the strange,
powerful beauty of
the unknown.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY
DAVID CHANCELLOR
Unmarried Nyangatom
girls, with ornamental scars,
in the Omo River
Valleys Lokulan village.
Unmarried Kara tribeswomen from Dus.
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A Kara tribesman near Labuk village.
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Ethiopia
ERITREA
SUDAN
OMO
RIV E R
ADDIS
ABABA
SOMALIA
OMO
SOUTH VA L L E Y
SUDAN
KENYA
134
800 K M
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T L Guide
TOUR
OPERATOR
The Cape Townbased
company Passage to
Africa arranged the
authors 10-day
itinerary, led by CEO
Michael Lorentz.
passagetoafrica.com.
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
An impressive portrayal
beautifully made duets
for the two leads.
Luke Jennings, The Guardian, UK
ONEGIN
STUTTGART BALLET, GERMANY
Saturday 25 October 7.30pm &
Sunday 26 October (2.30pm)
Baht 5,500 / 4,500 / 3,500 / 2,500 / 1,500
Supported by the Embassy of Germany,
Bosch and Thai-German Cultural Foundation
www.bangkokfestivals.com
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PHUKET
Lay of
the Land
Old Town This historical
districts century-old Chinese
shop houses and tin-baron
mansions house a variety of
cafs, creative restaurants,
cool bars and hip hotels.
Patong Phukets party
central needs little
introduction, but beyond the
dubious delights of Bangla
Road, youll discover an
emerging culinary scene and
good tourist shopping.
Chalong This waterfront is
the main launching point for
boats to the oshore islands.
Grab a drink at one of the
laidback bars that line the
roads by the pier.
Kathu Earmarked as the
islands new CBD, this area is
booming with huge
developments that will add
more malls and attractions.
Surin Of the half-dozen
beach towns that line the
sun-soaked west coast,
Surin is the chicest, with
boutique resorts, beach
clubs and some of the
islands top-rated eateries.
Getting Around
Phukets many taxis and
tuk-tuks are exorbitantly
priced. Instead, rent a car
or motorbike.
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HYATT REGENCY
PHUKET RESORT
Located at the start of
Millionaires Mile, home
to some of the islands
most expensive resorts
and residences, the
Hyatt offers luxurious
lodgings, including 12
expansive Regency
suites. 16/12 Moo 6,
Kamala, Kathu;
66-76/231-234; phuket.
regency.hyatt.com;
Bt3,700.
INIALA
This one-of-a-kind
property is the brainchild
of philanthropist Mark
Weingard. Each of the
10 suites are the
creation of dierent
designers from across
the globe. All guests
have a driver, butler, chef
and masseuse at their
beck and call. 40/14
Moo 6, Baan Natai,
Phang Nga; 66-76/451456; iniala.com;
US$2,500.
POINT YAMU
BY COMO
The rst top-ight resort
set up in the islands
rural northeast is sleek
and modern with star
Italian designer Paola
Navones interiors partly
inspired by the waters of
LE CORAL
HIDEAWAY
BEYOND PHUKET
Picturesque Natai
Beach is rapidly
becoming the go-to
destination for those in
the know. This small,
smart resort is the
latest addition to the
areas upmarket
oerings, featuring
well-appointed rooms
with beach-house
touches like distressed
wood furnishings. 9/9
Moo 8, Na Toey, Thai
Muang; 66-76/679-888;
coralhideaway.com;
doubles from Bt17,500
for two nights.
ANANTARA
PHUKET LAYAN
RESORT & SPA
The so beach, shallow
tide pool and oshore
rock formations set a
scene so serene youll
have no idea youre a
stones throw from the
lively Laguna complex.
168 Moo 6, Layan Beach
Soi 4, Cherngtalay,
Thalang; 66-76/317200; phuket-layan.
anantara.com; Bt5,200.
U ZENMAYA
PHUKET
This Old Town-inspired
property is the newest
rollout for the berpersonalized Thailandbased U Hotels &
Resorts. 6/181 Moo 6,
Kamala, Kathu; 66-76/
336-888; uzenmaya
phuket.com; Bt2,299.
ONE TO WATCH Kata Rocks At this stunning, long-awaited, cli-top resort, the villas are all heavy on
Andaman views and the wellness bent is downright funthink: sleep-pod napping therapy and an in-house
expert at Feldenkrais, a practice focusing on the symbiotic relationship between movement and thought.
Doors open in November. 186/22 Kok Tanode Rd., Karon, Muang; 66-76/370-777; katarocks.com.
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Shop
R E K TA : C O U R T E S Y O F R E K TA B E A C H C L U B AT B O AT H O U S E B Y M O N TA R A , P H U K E T 2
C H I N P R A C H A H O U S E : T H I T I TA N D A V A N I TJ
From top:
Handmade spa
products at the
fragrant Lemongrass
House; tropical
fashion at Re K Ta.
See Do
LARD YAI SUNDAY
WALKING STREET
Chinpracha
House.
Patong Boxing
Stadium.
SOI DOG
FOUNDATION
Since it was founded in 2003
to tackle Phukets stray pup
epidemic, this remarkable
charity has sterilized more
than 60,000 dogs and cats.
Learn more about their
worthy work and meet some
friendly animals on a facility
tour. 167/9 Moo 4, Soi Mai
Khao 10, Mai Khao, Thalang;
66-81/788-4222; soidog.org.
SURF HOUSE
CHINPRACHA HOUSE
PATONG BOXING
STADIUM
Organized by famous former
muay Thai champion Num
Noi Singpatong, the Saturday
Fight Nights feature the best
combatants to come out of
his Patong gymincluding
Frenchman Damien Alamos,
the top-ranked foreigner in
the sport. 2/59 Sainamyen
Rd., Patong, Kathu; 66-76/
345-578; patongboxing
stadium.com; from Bt1,300.
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PHUKET
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Le Cordon Bleu-trained
chef. 31 Dibuk Rd., Old
Town, Muang; 66-76/
355-914; mirrormirror
phuket.com; Bt1,000.
NAHMYAA
Though yet to garner
the fame of its sister
restaurantNahm, at
the Metropolitan by
COMO in Bangkok
this koi-tiled, new
addition to Phukets
dining scene deserves
some recognition.
Under the expert eye of
chefs Daniel Moran and
Thirawut Na-udom, it
serves up classy twists
on southern Thai street
food, such as an
unbeatable steamed
whole sh topped with
catsh oss. 225 Moo
7, Paklok, Thalang; 6676/360-100;
comohotels.com/
pointyamu; Bt2,500.
NIKKI BEACH
PHUKET
The newest branch of
this glam global beach
club chain sashayed up
to the northern end of
unspoiled Layan Beach
earlier this year. Join
the well-dressed crowd
sipping champagne and
knocking back oysters
as the day fades to
dusk. The raucous
Sunday brunch is mustbook-ahead. 62/11
Moo 6, Cherngtalay,
Thalang; 66-76/681161; nikkibeach.com/
phuket; Bt3,000.
GALLERY CAFE
BY PINKY
Long a mainstay of
expats in search of a
sandwich, salad and
smoothie, Pinkysas
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R I G H T: C O U R T E S Y O F A Z I A M E N D I . B O T T O M : C O U R T E S Y O F R E N D E ZV O U S
Imbibe in
Old Town
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: J O H N H A R P E R /G E T T Y I M A G E S ; A K E E R I S / D R E A M S T I M E . C O M ; C O U R T E S Y O F M R . Z E N .
I L L U S T R AT I O N S B Y W A S I N E E C H A N TA K O R N
TIM CAMPBELL
ALICE NA
Co-owner of
Stand Up
Projects
TAKUATUNG
LUCCHINI
TV host of
Phuket News TV
Co-owner of
Chalong Bay Rum
Island
Hop
MARINE
While it may seem odd flying onto an island resort only to board a boat to yet another, the dozens of small isles dotted around
Phuket are sure to beckon from the horizon. Just a 15-minute speedboat ride (or slightly longer by longtail) from Phuket, pay a visit
to Koh Bon, where Brit Dawn Farrell (bonislandphuket.wordpress.com) serves up fresh seafood right on the beach, or to the mostly
undeveloped Coral Islandalso known as Koh Haewhich features pristine reefs for snorkeling and sandy beaches for sunning.
To avoid the crowds, skip Long Beach and head to Banana Beach instead. Mainly rural Koh Yao Yai, where the locals still harvest
rubber and coconuts, is off the east coast. Due to the infrequent ferries, its worth staying overnight, perhaps somewhere such as
the Koh Yao Yai Village resort (kohyaoyaivillage.com). To really get away from it all, check into the Tenta Nakara (tentanakara.com)
on Koh Naka Yai, where you can glamp it up at a resort that encourages skinny-dipping! Nothing like getting back to nature.
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Last Look
Photographed by
Omar Havana
Cambodia
142
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QBUUBZB