omeone pushing hundreds of miles daily on a Harley bagger and thats just the street riders!

One thing
they all have in common is that tires are critical components.
Like with most of the products we sell, making a good decision when choosing tires is a matter of
understanding how you ride, being honest about your intents and abilities, and most importantly, being safe.
Lets start with a quick run-down of tire

wet and off-road tires come in a wide variety for different surfaces, from hard-packed dirt to sand.

Bead: This is the part of the tire that mates to the wheel. It is typically steel wire covered heavily in
rubber. The bead has a snug fit to the wheel to prevent the wheel from slipping rotationally in the tire.

Carcass: In simple terms, this is the body of the tire under the tread. Motorcycle tires are typically
bias-ply or radial, which refers to how the tire is constructed. Radial tires have reinforcing belts
(which are almost always steel) running from bead to bead across the tread of the tire. Bias-ply tires
have belts which are typically cords made of fiber, such as polyester, aramid, or fiberglass, that run
from bead to bead at an angle of 30 to 40 degrees or so. (Thats the bias!)

Sidewall: The area of the tire that bridges the tread and bead. A small part of the tire, it is vitally
important. It gives the tire much of its handling and load transfer characteristics. This is the part of
the tire were talking about when we reference height, profile, or aspect ratio. Typically, a shorter
sidewall yields a stiffer sidewall, which tends to flex less. To a rider, this means better handling and
turning, worse bump absorption, and more difficult mounting. This section greatly contributes to the
tires role in the suspension. Thats right the tire is a suspension component!

Cracking the code

How do you know the important stuff about a tire? Like, whats inside it and what size it is? It's easy. By
law, this information is written on the tire sidewall.
There are two ways to give tire information: alphanumeric and metric.
A quick history lesson before we start decoding: In the old days, there was only one way to size tires
alphanumeric. Radial tires didnt exist, so there were a pretty limited number of sizes available, which made
an uncomplicated system adequate. As increasingly complex tire technology became available, it was
evident a new system needed to be cooked up to provide that information to consumers and sellers, so the
metric system was developed. In the days of yore, tires never really got bigger than six inches across the
tread (or from rim to tire edge), too, so if a tire has a size of much larger than 150, it will never be in an
alphanumeric size, because they didnt exist in the Dark Ages of motorcycling. Dont be scared off by
alphanumeric tire sizes its usually easy to get a great tire that will make you happy, and in a tiny way,
youll be using a tire that connects you to the old days of motorcycling.
Theres an older way still of sizing tires, using tire widths in inches, but bikes requiring them are antiques at
this point, like 3.00x18. If you run tires like this, give one of our Gear Geeks a call for help obtaining a set.

The image at right shows two tire sizes you might see.
Let's break down the numbers.
The first, a 130/90, is a common size for Harley-Davidson tires. The 130 represents the width across the face
of the tread in millimeters. This may not be exactly identical from one brand of tire to another. Each
manufacturer varies slightly, and the curvature of the tires profile can affect the overall measurement, but
the tolerances are close enough that one will fit where another goes, as long as you're sticking to stock sizes.
The second tire example, in the alphanumeric system, conveys the width with the letter T. Tire width
charts are widely available in tire catalogs and online, so to save space, well omit them here. (For those
curious, the M indicates Motorcycle. Every alphanumeric tire youll run into will start with an M.)
The 90 represents the aspect ratio. The aspect ratio is the height of the sidewall expressed as a percentage of
the width. Thus, this tire has a side wall height of 90 percent times 130 mm or 117 mm.
The next item youll see is the rim size expressed in inches. Were this tire a radial, we would see a capital
letter R separating the aspect ratio and rim size. Since that is not the case here, you can be certain this is a
bias-ply tire. Were this tire a bias-belted tire (like a bias-ply tire with additional, stiffening layers of fabric
placed over the body plies), a capital letter B would separate the aspect ratio and rim size. It's easy to see
this tire is made to be mounted on a 16-inch wheel.
Other information shown are speed ratings and load ranges. Load ranges give the maximum weight a tire can
carry, and speed ratings list the maximum speed at which the maximum load can be carried. Charts to find a
given load or speed for a particular letter or number again are available in a multitude of places, so were not
including them here. If you cannot find one, just ask us for help!
Theres one more tire code, called the service description, and well talk about it quickly in a little bit. Its
not universal to the information given on a sidewall, so were not covering it here.

All these numbers and letters! How do I get the right tire?

As long as you stick to the stock size tire that your motorcycle was designed to use, you're good to go. That
doesn't mean you can't experiment. Depending on your motorcycle, you may still have a choice of sport
tires, designed to provide maximum grip at the expense of tread life, touring tires designed for maximum
mileage, or sport-touring tires that strive to provide the best of both. For adventure bikes, you can choose
between tires that are intended as 90-10 (90 percent street use, 10 percent off road) or 50-50 or some other
combination.
Of course people love to experiment, and sometimes that means departing from stock tire types and sizes.
Our customers have brought us some humdingers of questions, so were going to try to cover the ones we
get most often.
The most important thing to remember when selecting a tire is something each of our Gear Geeks absorbs to
the core, and we encourage our customers to take the same stance: We always will err on the side of safety.
Many customers will ask, Can I followed by some deviation from standard practice. Some ideas kicked
off by lone amateurs have been fantastic, while others have caused injury or death. We at RevZilla respect
the rights of each motorcyclist to choose what modifications to make, but because we are unable to quickly
evaluate every customers abilities and judgment through simple phone and e-mail contacts, it is RevZillas
stance to only recommend tires that are original size, speed rating, load rating, and construction as the
original equipment manufacturers.
Without further ado, heres the FAQ!

What's the widest tire I can fit on my bike?

Boy, if only it was that easy! Theres a reason that theres not a common list of stuff that will fit on a given
bike. Most people dont sit around the shop with a stack of tires trying to fit different ones onto their wheels.
A lot of things need to be taken into account when changing a tire size.
Tires need clearance in many dimensions. A tire that is too wide can rub a swingarm, chain, or other parts. A
tire that is too large in circumference will change gearing ratios and speedometer readouts, and can contact
fenders or swingarms. If clearance is tight when you mount the tire, keep in mind it can still cause problems.
Tires grow at speed. Temperature and centrifugal force cause a spinning tire to be measurably larger than
one at rest.
Wide tires are not necessarily better. They usually turn in worse than a skinnier tire of the same make and
model, and usually hurt fuel mileage. The common alteration of mounting a wider rear tire may make the
bike harder to steer, even unpleasantly or unsafely so.
While wider tires rarely provide performance advantages, some tire manufacturers do offer their own plus
sizing recommendations, by listing tire sizes larger than stock that are confirmed to fit a certain size rim.

Can I mix radial and bias-ply tires? Can I switch from bias to
radials?
Again, we respect a customers right to choose, but we only recommend sticking with a manufacturers
recommended tire construction type.

In general, radial tires offer lower temperatures (leading to longer life), stiffer construction, and the ability to
have sidewalls with a lower aspect ratio, resulting in less flex. Bias-ply tires offer a softer, more compliant
ride and, typically, a little lower price. Their other main advantage is load-carrying capability. In a given
size, youll typically see a bias handle more weight. It explains why Harley (a big player in the heavy cruiser
market) and certain touring bikes use them.
Interestingly, for some manufacturers, a mix of a bias front and radial rear is the setup from the factory.

Can I put a tubeless tire on a spoked rim?

Great question. For you rookies out there: Spoked rims will leak air if the tires mounted to them do not have
an inner tube installed in them to hold the air. The nipples where the spokes mate to the rim are not airtight.
A notable exception to this rule is the edge-spoked rims commonly found on a few bikes, such as BMW GSseries adventure-tourers. Even some alloy rims require tube-type tires, especially older bikes.
Bottom line: If your bike came with tube-type tires with inner tubes, you're not going to be able to use a
tubeless tire without some creative engineering to make the rim airtight. And even then, there's no
guarantees, because the beads may not seat properly on a wheel made for tube-type tires. So this is one of
those things we just can't recommend.

What if I use a tubeless tire with a tube in it?

It's not that simple. The bead seat designs on the wheels are typically designed differently for tube and
tubeless tires. Use a different kind of tire and the beads may or may not lock, especially if the air pressure is
low. The other big stinker here is that the speed rating is null and void because the extra layer of tube now
allows the tire to heat to an unknown level. Bottom line: Dont do it!

Can I reuse my old tubes when I put on a new tire?

Not a great idea. In tubeless tires, the valve stem is replaced at every tire swap. The brass corrodes. With an
inner tube, the valve is built right into the tube, so that in and of itself is reason enough to replace the tube.
Rubber hardens as it heat-cycles the process of going from cold to hot and back to cold again, every time
you ride and the tube's rubber, which should be soft and pliable, turns brittle and prone to cracking.
Compared to tires, tubes are cheap. Bottom line: Dont do it. Replace the tubes with the tires.

What size tube do I need?

That's easy. Here's a conversion chart!

What size valve stem do I need for my tubeless tire?

There are two types: 8 mm and 10 mm. The larger one, which actually fits an 11.3 mm hole in the wheel, is
by far the most common size. It's used by all the Japanese manufacturers and Harley-Davidson. The smaller
size, actually an 8.3 mm opening, is used by some BMWs and Buells and aftermarket wheels.

Can I use tires with a different load/speed rating?

Normally, a downgrade in load/speed rating is a poor idea and we dont recommend it at RevZilla.
Maximum load and speed ratings are considered by the manufacturer and they specify tires they believe the
bike needs.
Upgrading a speed or load rating wont hurt anything, but can give a worse ride due to sidewall stiffeners
being added to the tire. If youre looking to upgrade the load rating, make sure the bike is capable of bearing
the load, as well! Factory-spec tires should be capable of handling the load the bike is approved to carry. If
you're trying to exceed that, most likely the tires are not the only weak point and other parts can break, too!
When considering weights, do not forget the weight of rider, passenger, luggage, etc. Japanese bike
manufacturers are notorious for expecting their customers to be featherweights.
Upgrading speed ratings is one change from original equipment that gets a RevZilla thumbs-up. A higher
speed rating is rarely detrimental, though you may give up fuel mileage or tire life. We recommend sticking

to the OE speed rating, but upgrading is permissible, provided you know that other riding characteristics
could be affected.
Downgrading a speed rating is never a bright idea. If you have two tires with different speed ratings, it's the
lower rating that counts. Also, any tire that has been repaired loses all speed rating.

What do the B, C, E, etc. after the tire size mean?

If you see a letter and number combo listed after a tire size, that is a tire service description. Service
descriptions all have a load and speed index, which are easily converted from a number of commonly
available tables. There is also additional, optional information which can vary from manufacturer to
manufacturer. Its sometimes information that the tire producer gives to further clarify what the tire belongs
on, or what job the tire was designed to do. It may indicate a slightly different version of a tire that is made
specifically for a certain new model of bike, at the motorcycle manufacturer's request. Michelin Pilot Road
3s are a good example of this. The B service description denotes a tire with extra sidewall stiffeners added.
If you are unsure what a service description means, consult your friendly Gear Geek for clarification.

Can I run a Michelin in the front and a Pirelli in the back?

There are rare instances where the OEM tires are mixed brands, but other than those exceptions, RevZilla
recommends replacing tires with the tire manufacturers recommended match front or rear. Often, a
manufacturer will recommend a different model of tire for front and rear, and we will follow that
recommendation. Unless a bike was equipped with two different tires from the factory, we do not
recommend mixing tire brands because differences in tire handling and performance can cause an otherwise
well-behaved motorcycle to act in an unpredictable, unsafe manner. Tire manufacturers engineered their tires
to work with a matched partner. You paid for all that engineering, so why not use it?

How can I make sure I don't receive an old tire? Does it matter?
Yup! Tire age does matter!
Fortunately, it's easy to tell your tire's age. On the sidewall of every tire there is a DOT code. The code starts
with DOT and ends with a mishmash of numbers which tell many things, including the date of
manufacture and plant it was produced in. We are interested in the last block of numbers. If there is a threedigit number in the final block of numbers, the tire was produced prior to 2000 and needs to be replaced! A
four-digit number will reference the week of production in the first two digits, and the year in the last two.
For example, 4209 as the final four characters in the DOT code indicates that the tire was made in the 42nd
week of 2009.
If the tires on your bike are five years old, RevZilla recommends an inspection by a trained tire professional.
If they're 10 years old, you should replace them, no matter what.
We do not guarantee motorcycle tires ordered from RevZilla will be of a certain age. However, be assured
that our stock rolls over really frequently, and you will be getting a tire of very recent production.

How can I tell when my tire needs to be replaced?

Because its flat? That would be a good replacement situation

Lets run down a quick list of times when motorcycle tires should be replaced:

Sidewall puncture

Damage that can't be repaired

Tire with a puncture larger than 0.25 inches

Tire more than 10 years old

Weather-checked (cracked around the circumference), often due to UV or fluorescent exposure

Tire that has been run with exceedingly low pressure (damage is typically seen as a circumferential
ring that looks rubbed in)

Tire with cuts or slices

Tire with missing tread blocks

Tire that is worn (less than 2/32 of an inch of tread in any area)

Tire displaying treadwear indicators

Tire that has cross section significantly altered (flatter or more pointed due to uneven wear)

Tire that is feathered or cupped and is making noise or exhibiting a choppy ride; some front tire
cupping is normal, but a worn tire may exhibit severe feathering

If youre asking us this question, you probably need at least one new tire, and likely two. Given that most
bikes have a tire speed rating, and repaired tires lose their speed rating, most people with any type of tire
damage need a new tire. The safest course is to consider a repair a temporary fix, at best. Given how critical
tires are to your safety and your motorcycle's performance, RevZilla urges customers to stay safe.

Are chatter/wobble/wear/tread issues caused by a defective tire?

Well, you could have a defective tire. Or maybe a defective install. Its hard to say without having the
situation assessed by a trained professional. As a former tire installer, I would say that perhaps two percent
of all tire problems were caused by truly defective tires. Chatter from a tire typically comes from normal
wear and cupping, and sometimes from incorrect inflation, or a combination of those things. Wobble is
almost always caused by misaligned tires, bent axles, or, most commonly, worn bearings. Tread and wear
issues are usually caused from wheels having crooked installation or improper inflation.
Its hard to say what you may be facing without seeing the problem firsthand. If you want some suggestions
from a Gear Geek on what could be going on with your particular tire, information about the bike, tire
installation, circumstances surrounding the failure, and pictures are all really, really helpful. Its the best first

step in determining if youve got a problem, and what should be done to remedy it. We maintain great
relationships with our tire manufacturers, so we often tap their experience and that can be a huge resource
when we are trying to help you!

I ride aggressively on the street. Why shouldn't I get a track-day

tire?
Because the streets not the track! Track tires often have compounds requiring very hot temperatures to
stick to the road that a rider even an aggressive one will not hit on the street. This means that in real
use, the track-day tire may be less grippy on the street than a sporty street tire.
Track-day tires also have different cross sections, usually inviting quicker steering, but twitchier handling.
They are almost never optimized for wear and they probably don't handle water or debris well, since those
are usually absent on the track, though that cannot be said of city streets. Track tires also rarely take into
account loaded riding that street bikes are frequently saddled with. There are a number of super-sticky street
tires that really bridge the gap between track and street use and they are almost universally the best choice
for the rider who asks this question.
Have a question that's not answered here? Drop us a line or give us a call. We never tire of talking to our
customers!

Street Tire Size Designations

Motorcycle Street Tire Size

Front
Metric

Alphabetical

Inch

80/90

MH90

2.50/2.75

90/90

MJ90

2.75/3.00

100/90

MM90

3.25/3.50

110/90

MM90

3.75/4.00

120/80

4.25/4.50

120/90

MR90

4.25/4.50

130/90

MT90

5.00/5.10

Rear
Metric

Alphabetical

Inch

110/90

MN90

3.75/4.25

120/80

MP85

4.50/4.75

120/90

MP85

4.50/4.75

130/80

5.00/5.10

130/90

MT90

5.00/5.10

140/80

5.50/6.00

140/90

MU90

5.50/6.00

150/80

MV85

6.00/6.25

150/90

MB85

6.00/6.25

Pry Rating and LISS Conversion

Pry Rating

LI/SS

2.75-10 2Pry

2.75-10 26J

2.75-10 4Pry

2.75-10 38J

3.00-10 2Pry

3.00-10 32J

3.00-10 4Pry

3.00-10 42J

3.50-10 2Pry

3.50-10 41J

3.50-10 4Pry

3.50-10 51J
Pry Rating

LI/SS

2.75-14 4Pry

2.75-14 35P

2.75-14 6Pry

2.75-14 41P

2.25-17 4Pry

2.25-17 33L

2.50-17 4Pry

2.50-17 38L

2.50-17 6Pry

2.50-17 43L

Load Rating (Load Index:LI)

LI

KGS

LBS

21

82.5

182

22

85

187

23

87.5

193

24

90

198

25

92.5

204

26

95

209

27

97.5

215

28

100

220

29

103

227

30

106

234

31

109

240

32

112

247

33

115

254

34

118

260

35

121

267

36

125

276

37

128

282

38

132

291

39

136

300

40

140

309

41

145

320

42

150

331

43

155

342

44

160

353

45

165

364

46

170

375

47

175

386

48

180

397

49

185

408

50

190

419

LI

KGS

LBS

51

195

430

52

200

441

53

206

454

54

212

467

55

218

481

56

224

494

57

230

507

58

236

520

59

243

536

60

250

551

61

257

567

62

265

584

63

272

600

64

280

617

65

290

639

66

300

661

67

307

677

68

315

694

69

325

716

70

335

736

71

345

761

72

355

783

73

365

805

74

375

827

75

387

853

76

400

882

77

412

908

78

425

937

79

437

963

Speed Rating (Speed Symbol:SS) for Motorcycle use

SS

Km/h

Mph

80

50

100

62

120

75

130

81

140

87

150

94

170

106

180

112

210

130

240

149

240+

149+

270

168

(W)

270+

168+