Table of Contents

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

SUBSYSTEMS OF A COMPUTER
THE CENTRAL PROCESSING UNIT (CPU)
THE CPU COOLER
THE GRAPHICS PROCESSING UNIT (GPU)
CHOOSING A MONITOR
RANDOM ACCESS MEMORY (RAM)
THE HARD DRIVE (HDD)
THE POWER SUPPLY UNIT (PSU)
THE MOTHERBOARD
THE COMPUTER CASE
CATALOGING AND PURCHASING THE PARTS
CHOOSING AN OS
THE MAGIC TOOL
SEEKING ADVICE
BOTTLENECKING
PURCHASING THE PARTS
WARRANTIES
UPGRADING YOUR COMPUTER
COMPUTER HARDWARE CHECKLIST
ASSEMBLING THE SYSTEM
SETUP
THE FINAL PICTURE
HANDLING THE COMPONENTS
STEP BY STEP
THE FIRST BOOT
GETTING STARTED
HOW TO TROUBLESHOOT
WHEN THINGS START BEEPING
INSTALLING SOFTWARE
THE OPERATING SYSTEM
DRIVERS
OVERCLOCKING
MAINTENANCE
CLEANING
DISK DEFRAGMENTATION
CONCLUSION

What You Need to Know

To build a computer successfully you must, above all, choose the right components. And to do that,
you have to understand each parts function and interactions. In the following chapter we will go into
depth on each components function, and how to choose the proper one for your needs. Before reading
the next chapter, decide what you want to get out of this future computer (e.g. gaming, word
processing et cetera). Following this, we will go over parts compatibility. The author will show you
how to find the lowest prices and purchase the components, and finally assemble them and install
software.

Subsystems of a Computer
Many people seldom see the inside of a computer. Well go over each subsystem, one-by-one, in
detail.

The Central Processing Unit (CPU)

This component is where most of the processing or thinking occurs. Modern CPUs contain billions
of transistors; what they can calculate in one second would take the average human seventy years!
When evaluating a CPU there are two factors to consider, clock speed and number of cores. The
former is measured in Hertz (or more often in gigahertz, which equals one billion Hertz). A hertz is
just jargon denoting one cycle per second. A ten hertz processor can complete ten operations in one
second. So, in the context of processors, higher clock speeds yield faster computations. Modern
processor clock speeds range from 1.5 to 4.5 Ghz (gigahertz). One must also consider the number of
cores in a processor. Originally computer processors had only one core, which is analogous to
saying that people have one brain. In order to create the illusion of multitasking, the CPU had to
switch back or forth between tasks very quickly. Then, some smart folks came along and said, what
if it had two cores that work together or three or four! In the same way as having two brains,
having multiple cores allows a computer to work on more than one task simultaneously. Current CPUs
have anywhere from two to eight cores.

Who makes processors? AMD and Intel are historically and currently the most popular desktop
processors. Intel often favours clock speed, where AMD processors often have more cores and are
less expensive.

Who should care more about clock speed? If you do not use many programs at once and demand
high performance from one application, clock speed is more important. Gamers, especially games that
are physics-intensive, fall into this category.

Who needs more cores? Favour cores over clock speed if you work with many programs at once or
programs that require multitasking. For example, photographers, developers, and movie editors will
likely need four or more cores. In reality, both cores and clock speed are integral to processor
performance.

Buyers guide to Processors. The following table displays sample specifications of processors that
would be suited to different users.

The CPU Cooler

CPUs can get very hot (>60C) and thus need a separate cooler. Most CPUs come with a stock cooler,
but it is loud and ineffective if you wish to do any slightly intensive tasks, or overclock (see:
overclocking chapter). We recommend that you buy a third party, more powerful cooler. The

following image shows a typical air cooler, containing a copper block at the bottom, a heat sink, and
fans. The CPUs is pasted to the bottom of the block using a special heat-transmitting paste that you
can purchase at your local hardware store.

Water-cooling (yes, water in your PC!) is another, higher-performance alternative to air cooling. It
uses a pump and tube, along with a copper block to cool the CPU. If you are gaming, or doing running
other CPU-intensive applications, then water-cooling is something to consider.

The Graphics Processing Unit (GPU)

The GPU processes and outputs all graphics to the screen. There are two types: discrete (known as
graphics cards), and integrated. If the computer is only used for web browsing, word processing, or
other light activities then integrated graphics will suffice. The integrated GPU is built into the CPU,
so there are no extra components needed. However, for users that play games, edit videos or other
graphics intensive activities, a graphics card is a must-have to provide the necessary horsepower.

Graphics cards have complex specifications in esoteric jargon that varies by company. So, while you

might use clock speed and memory to gauge performance, it is simpler to look at benchmarks which
measure performance in specific applications. Make sure to search for a benchmark for your favorite
game or application that you frequently use, as the performance of GPUs tends to vary widely
depending on the program. Some good benchmark sites to get started on are Anandtech and Video
Card Benchmark. Typically, benchmarks are presented as bar charts with the name of the graphics
cards tested on the y axis, and either time or FPS (frames per second) on the x axis. Time refers to
computation time, so smaller is better. If measured in FPS, higher is better because it means that the
graphics card can process more frames in one second. Here is an example of a benchmark chart,
measured in FPS. So in this specific program, graphics card one is the best.

Graphics cards can be used in combination. AMD and Nvidia offer their Crossfire and SLI
technologies respectively, which allow you to combine the power of up to four graphics cards.
Extreme gamers or video editors should consider this option.
One specification you should take into account is GPU memory size. More memory is needed to
power a larger screen. So, while a 2 gigabyte card may be good for a 1920 by 1080 screen, it may lag
on a 2560 by 1440 screen. Good graphics cards have anywhere from one to four gigabytes of
memory.

Choosing a Monitor
The monitor is the interface between you and the computer. Even with the best system, you wont have
a pleasant experience without a decent monitor. With that said, there are four factors to consider when
purchasing a monitor for your PC: panel types, pixel density, refresh rate, and latency. Firstly, you
will want an IPS type monitor. Compared to the old TN panel, they have wider viewing angles and
better colour ranges but are a little more expensive. If you are watching videos, playing games,
drawing, or anything else where the screen quality is integral to your experience, an IPS panel is a
must have. Secondly, consider the pixel density, which is the number of pixels per square inch. A
higher pixel density will look better, but is more expensive and requires a stronger graphics

processing unit. If you opt for a screen resolution above 1920 by 1080, verify that you have a
graphics card that is rated for that resolution. The refresh rate of a monitor specifies the maximum
amount of frames it can display in a second. For example, a monitor that refreshes at 60 Hz can
display sixty frames in one second. The standard refresh rates are thirty, sixty and 120 hertz. Thirty
hertz should only be considered for a media PC, as movies run at 24 frames per second. For any other
applications, 30 Hz will be noticeably choppy. Sixty hertz is the best performance to benefit refresh
rate and is the right choice for nearly all users. Those with sharp eyes and who play video games
often might enjoy the smoothness that 120 Hz provides. Lastly, you must consider latency, which is the
time it takes for the monitor to display a frame after receiving it from the GPU. Anywhere up to
twelve milliseconds is acceptable. Again, gamers especially will benefit from low latencies.
Consider picking a monitor that natively has the same video ports (e.g. HDMI) as your GPU/graphics
card so you dont need an adapter cable.

Random Access Memory (RAM)

RAM, often called memory, is a computers short-term memory. It is a volatile type of electronic
storage, meaning that its contents disappear when you turn your computer off. It acts as fast,
intermediate storage between a running program and the permanent storage on the hard drive. To
understand RAMs purpose consider the following; you are entering text into your word processing
program, and while you are typing, your words are stored in RAM until you save the document and
exit the program. RAM is used because of its superior speed compared to the hard drive. If it didnt
exist you would have to wait for your computer to save after typing each character. When you exit the
word processing program, the memory of your document is erased from RAM, which is akin to saying
it is transferred to long-term memory.
RAM is manufactured in sticks. The sticks are stackable, and you can install as many as your
motherboard will allow (usually four more on this later).

When buying memory, consider its clock speed, storage size, and type. Like with the CPU, clock
speed determines how fast the RAM is. Typical speeds range from 1333 Mhz to 2400 Mhz. A faster
speed means that data can be stored and retrieved more quickly. For most users, the best speed for
your money is 1600 Mhz; higher speeds are unnoticeable in most applications. The next specification,
storage size, is much more important. Ensure that you have enough storage for your average needs,
and then some. Insufficient RAM will cause the computer to run slowly and you will have to close
applications to free up space. Modern RAM comes in two, four, eight, or sixteen gigabytes (per
stick). Lastly, the type of memory determines the amplifier of its clock speed. DDR (Double Data
Rate) was the first iteration of the series, which was twice as fast as previous RAM. Then came
DDR2, which was twice as fast as DDR. Today, DDR3 is the current standard and is the only type
you should consider. Nearly all RAM currently sold in stores is DDR3, but still verify the type before
making your purchase.
It must be noted that you should not mix and match RAM. The sticks may be of different storage sizes,
but they should have the same clock speed and be of the same model.
Buyers guide to RAM: suggested specifications for different users. All memory is DDR3.

The Hard Drive (HDD)

The hard drive (or disk drive) is the long-term memory of a computer. It stores all your files,
pictures, and just about everything else that you wish to keep. There are two main factors to consider
for this purchase. Firstly, the storage size is important. Measured in gigabytes, it is simply how much
stuff you can store on the drive. With the recent alternative of cloud-based storage online, hard
drive size is one specification where you can cut back if you are budget-conscious. Secondly, there is
the drive speed, measured in RPM (revolutions per minute). Much like a record player, a hard drive
has a head that reads the data on the drive. Your data, as invisible as it might seem, is actually stored
in a physical location on the disc drive. For example, your birthday letter to Mom may be a few
inches away from your favorite video game. A drive that is rated at a higher RPM spins faster, and
thus can read/write different places on the drive quicker. This enables it to locate, read and give you
what you requested in less time than a slower drive. Disk drive speeds are typically standard at 5400,
7200, or 10000 RPM. Faster drives are more expensive. It is important to note that hard drive speed
does not affect the speed of applications that are already cached in RAM (i.e. already running), but
only the speed it takes to load or reload the application.

A recent alternative to the hard drive is the solid state drive (SSD). Think of it as a big USB flash
drive. Because it has no mechanical parts it can read and write data more than ten times faster than a
disk drive. However, they are much more expensive for an equivalent amount of storage. For highperformance users who need little local storage such as gamers, an SSD could function as their sole
storage device. For users who need more than a terabyte of storage, an HDD is necessary. A
combination of the two is possible as well. A small SSD can be used to store the operating system
and frequently used programs, with a large-capacity HDD for content that is accessed less often.

HDDs come in either 2.5 inch of 3.5 inch diameters, but SSDs only come in 2.5 inch sizes. Both sizes
use the same connection cables. Most computer cases can accommodate both sizes.

The Power Supply Unit (PSU)

The PSU takes the AC power from an outlet and transforms it into the direct current needed by the
computer. Additionally, it distributes the electricity to the motherboard and individual components
through cables. PSU performance is measured in watts, a unit of power. To calculate the wattage you
need, add up the wattage of all the individual components (i.e. motherboard, CPU, GPU, etc.). You
can use online tools to do this, but it should be done manually as well. Simply add up the individual

power requirements of each component and add one hundred to that number, for a safety margin. A
PSU without enough power for the system could damage the components or itself.

Another notable specification is the 80PLUS rating. With categories of bronze, silver, gold and
platinum, it describes the efficiency of the PSU. If you are a conservationist or wish to save on your
energy bill, choose a PSU from the latter two categories. While shopping, you might see some PSUs
marked as modular, meaning that the wires connecting to them can be detached, to improve case
wire management. This feature is not necessary unless you have a small case or care about the
appearance of the inside of your PC.

The Motherboard
As per the name, the motherboard (or mainboard) is the central part of a computer. Unlike other
components, it doesnt serve a specific function. Rather, it is the medium through which all
components connect. In one way or another, each component is connected to the motherboard.
Choosing the motherboard takes the most knowledge, as you must ensure it is compatible with each
part. It is recommended that you choose the rest of your parts first (except for the case) and then
choose the motherboard. If no motherboard is compatible with all your components, then your build is
probably uneven (and would be bottlenecked more on this next chapter). In this case, find a
motherboard that nearly fits and change the incompatible component(s). The following is a list of
compatibilities to keep in mind. Before you get scared away by all this, know that there is an online
tool that makes sure everything is compatible, which the author will introduce next.
SATA capability. SATA is the interface by which the motherboard connects to the hard drive or
SSD. Currently, you will see SATA II and SATA III. The latter is twice as fast, and is used for newer
drives. Ensure the SATA version of the motherboard matches that of the drive.
PCI and PCIe slots. These are slots on the motherboard that allow you to add additional auxiliary
components such as sound cards, video cards, and WIFI cards (though the motherboard often has
some of these built in already). PCIe is the most important, as it is used by the graphics card. To

further complicate things, there are different versions of PCIe. The current version is 3.0, and
versions are backwards compatible. So, if you are buying a video card that needs PCIe 3.0, make
sure the motherboard has at least one PCIe 3.0 port.
Socket Type. This defines how many pins are on the motherboard for the CPU to connect to. Both
Intel and AMD have several different lines of CPU pin configurations. An example would be Intels
LGA 1150 line of processors that has 1150 pins. For this line, you must have a motherboard that is
also designated LGA 1150 or else the CPU wont fit.
Chipset. The chipset defines the features that the motherboard has. New CPUs will not work on
older chipsets. Always check the compatibility of your CPU and motherboard chipset.
Supported memory and number of slots. Each motherboard has a maximum RAM speed. Even if
the memory is capable of running faster it will be bottlenecked and forced to run at that maximum
motherboard speed and thus you would have wasted money on too-fast RAM. Also, each stick of
RAM needs a way to connect to the motherboard, which is done through the motherboards DIMM
slots. The number of sticks you can use is limited to the number of slots. Most motherboards have four
slots, but some only have two.
There are other miscellaneous features to consider when buying a motherboard, such as the number
and speed of Ethernet ports, the quality of the audio card, and version of WIFI built in (if its
included).

There are four standard types of motherboards. In order, from smallest to largest, they are: mini-ITX,
MicroATX, ATX, and EATX. The one you choose reflects the size of the computer you want to have.
The bigger boards generally contain more slots and features, and will allow the components to be
more spread out in the case. Most boards are ATX form factor which is supported by all but the
smallest cases.

The Computer Case

A case should not only be stylish, but functional. Good cases will provide anti-vibration housings for
the hard drives, a strong metal backing for the motherboard, holes and tie downs for wires, open
space for the air to flow, spaces for fans, screens for dust collection, and extra bays for optical drives
and other accessories. The case you choose must be big enough to house all the components,
especially the motherboard and graphics card, which take up the most space. Cases will generally
specify which size motherboards it can house, but you might need to read reviews or look at
dimensions to know what length of graphics card it can handle.
Computer cases have 3.5 and 5.25 inch bays to place storage devices and optical drives (and other
components) respectively. Although you can put a hard drive anywhere in the case, it is good to find
one that has enough bays for your needs.
It will make your life easier if you are able to find a tool-less case. Instead of using screws (which
often come hellishly tight) they use pull outs and thumb screws.

Cataloging and Purchasing the Parts

Choosing an OS
Before you get started choosing your parts, you should decide what operating system suits you best
(i.e. Windows, Linux or OS X). In depth discussion on the best operating system is beyond the scope
of this book. However, consider that Linux and OS X tend to run faster than Windows on slower
computers, so they are the best choice for a low-end PC. If you are building a hackintosh a nonApple computer that runs OS X then you will be limited to the parts that it is compatible with.

The Magic Tool

When planning your build, PC Part Picker (see: pcpartpicker.com) is an invaluable asset. It has nearly
every PC component listed, with review, prices and specifications. It has slots for each component in
your build, and will only allow you to choose parts that are compatible with other parts. It analyzes
the sites of major distributors (in North America) to find you the best price. Most importantly, they
have sample builds for a range of different types of computers. Check out these builds to get an idea
of the current specifications of a PC in your price range. Even if you choose not to use this tool to
plan your build, it is recommended that before purchasing you enter it anyways to double check
compatibility and find competitive prices.

Seeking Advice
There is no reason to go it alone when you build your computer. There are many sites and YouTube
hosts who review and suggest components. This is a matter of preference, but here is a list of the
authors preferred ones:
Tech of Tomorrow: a useful site for reviews and deals on computer components and sample system
builds
Overclock.net: a forum for asking specific questions related to hardware selection, building, and
overclocking
Toms Hardware: offers a forum and credible reviews for a wide range of hardware products.
Newegg: a retailer for computer components that offers detailed specifications, customer reviews,
and professional reviews on most of their popular products

Bottlenecking
A computer is said to be bottlenecked when one or more of its parts are preventing the rest from

operating to their full capacity. Because components are interdependent, each one must be
comparable in speed. An analogy would be saying that a chain is only as strong as its weakest link.
Bottlenecking takes knowledge to avoid and cannot be detected by PC Part Picker or another tool.
One way to avoid this is to balance the budget. Some parts do inherently cost more or less than
others, but nonetheless you should not be over-spending on one component under-spending on the
others. Additionally, make sure each one of your components surpasses, by a generous amount, the
minimum requirements of your most used applications. Most software companies post recommended
system requirements for their applications.

Purchasing the Parts

Often, you will be able to find a better deal when you go to a specialty retail store than if you bought
the parts online. Especially if you buy more than a few parts and are willing to bargain, most smallchain or individual stores will give you a deal. This is one of the reasons why building a PC is
cheaper than buying a prebuilt. You can also look for mail-in-rebates, which some manufacturers
offer on a limited time basis. Finding the best prices is an art, and can take time, which some buyers
may find it not to be worth. Deals can also be found online, with sites like Newegg or Amazon, who
often have sales on a particular line or product.

Warranties
Just as an individual computer is warrantied by a retailer, individual components are often warrantied
by their manufacturers. In general warranties cover any defects that existed when the product was
shipped, not problems induced by other components or spilled coffee. Sometimes, if you are within
the return period of a component from a retailer, they will replace it if it is defective. If you choose to
have a shop assemble your PC for you, often they will offer an additional warranty, agreeing to fix
any problems for a certain time period.

Upgrading your Computer

Consumer technology is a fast-paced industry, and computer components tend to rapidly depreciate in
value. Its not like an automobile where you can sell it three years later for a significant price. A PC
you buy or build now will be almost worthless a few years down the road. With that said, you should
make sure that you are happy with your components and that they are future proof, meaning they
will be able to run the applications of tomorrow. In the same way that many people periodically buy a
laptop, builders often will start from scratch every few years instead of slowly upgrading their
computer. This helps to prevent possible bottlenecks, and ensures that PC maintenance will not
become an ongoing chore.

Computer Hardware Checklist

 CPU
CPU cooler (optional)
Motherboard
RAM
Storage: HDD/SSD
GPU: integrated or graphics card
Case
Optical Drive (optional)
Power Supply
Display
Keyboard and Mouse
Speakers (optional)

Assembling the System

Setup
Now that youve bought all your components, we can start building. Put all of them neatly on a table
so they can be easily catalogued. Unbox each part leaving the protectors and wrap on. Keep the boxes
so you can resell or return the parts later. All you need now is a Philips screw driver and some
patience. In the following sections, you will be guided through the process of assembling the
computer. Keep in mind that each system is different so a full, step-by-step procedure for your exact
components is not possible. You will need to adapt the process described for your components.

The Final Picture

To give you an idea of what a typical computer will look like when it is finished, consult the
following image.

Handling the Components

A PC is made out of delicate electronic components that can break if not handled properly. The two
things you most want to avoid are static electricity and grease. Do not assemble your computer on
carpet, ever. You are better to do it on hard wood, concrete, or another surface that wont induce a
charge on you or the computer. For this reason, leave the components in their antistatic wrap until they
are ready to be placed in the PC. Touch the components on their sides, not on the printed circuit
boards to prevent grease, discharge, or cutting yourself. Always try to remain grounded (i.e. touching
large metal object). Because you need both hands, you may want to use an antistatic wrist strap
(available from any electronics store) to stay grounded, though it is not necessary.

Step by Step
Finally, lets start building the computer. This is meant to be a general algorithm. If a step is
ambiguous it could be because your case doesnt have this feature. For more detail consult your case
manual. KEEP ALL your boxes so that you can return parts that dont work.
1) Assemble your case according to its manual. This will include screwing in fans
and drives, and placing in other dividers or metal parts.
2) Inside of the motherboard box you will find a metal plate with cut-outs called an
IO shield. From the inside of the PC case, press the shield into the rectangular cut-out
(near the top). The speaker/microphone ports the small round ones should be at the
bottom.

3) Remove the hard drive bay. It might be a screw-in or pull-out mechanism. Place
the hard drive in and fasten it using the mechanism provided, either by screw or
compression.
4) If you have an optical drive, reservoir or some other accessory that fits in the 5.25
inch drive bay, put that in now. You will need to pull the bay out, align the screw holes
and screw, and place the bay back in the case.
5) Put the PSU into its position likely in the opposite bottom corner to the drive
bays though some have it at the top. The fan faces out if there is a vent, or up if it is
sealed. The switch and LED face out of the case. Push the PSU against the back of the
case and screw into the holes from outside using the screws that came with the PSU.

6) Unlatch and take the CPU out of any wrap it may be in, and get the motherboard
ready by putting it on the translucent antistatic wrap that it came with. Hold the CPU
on the sides, and do not touch the pins. Unlatch the CPU retention lever (on the socket)
so that the latch covering the socket is open. Take off the plastic protective cover.
Keep this cover as you will need it if you send your motherboard back for repair. You
will notice that there is one groove on each side of the CPU which matches two
notches in the socket. Line these up and place the CPU into the socket. Do not apply
any downward force to the CPU. Close the retention lever (press hard) until it locks.
Ensure that the lever is closed firmly before proceeding to the next step.

7) Take the CPU cooler out of its box. Most will come with thermal paste already on
the copper block. If you see this white/grey paste on the block, proceed to step 9. If
you do not see this white/grey paste on the block, DO NOT connect it and proceed to
step 8.
8) If the block doesnt have thermal paste applied, you will need to buy thermal
paste and apple it yourself. Here is an example of a popular poste, but any will work.
Apply a pea sized amount the face CPU. Take the CPU cooler and press the block
against the CPU to spread the paste out. Lift up the CPU cooler and check to see that
the paste is evenly distributed across both the CPU and cooler block.

9) Take any remaining plastic wrap off the CPU cooler. Holding the CPU cooler by
the sides and aligning it with the four holes around the socket, push it down against the
CPU with some pressure. Most CPU coolers lock by pressing the four buttons on the
top of the CPU to extend four legs through the holes in the motherboard. Plug the 4-pin
CPU connector into the four hole connector on the motherboard that is marked CPU
fan.

10) Take the RAM out of its casing. Open all the RAM slots by pulling the tabs
outward. Take note of the number of each slot it should be printed near the DIMM
slot on the motherboard. If you have less RAM sticks then slots, use the lower number

DIMMs first. The RAM only fits in one way. Line the grove of the gold fingers up to
the notch in the slot. Place the RAM in and press down on both sides. The tabs should
automatically pull back into place and lock the RAM in. If there are unused DIMMs,
close their tabs.
11) Now its time to place the motherboard in the case. Look at the mounting holes on
the motherboard. If you have an ATX board there are approximately six holes. Find
the standoffs in the case and align them with the motherboard holes. Make sure there
are no other protruding standoffs that are not aligned and will damage the
motherboard. If there is, you will need to unscrew them from the case before installing
the motherboard. Push the motherboard down and screw into the standoffs (for most
cases).
12) Lets start connecting the cables that lead to the front LEDs and ports on your
case. If you have a case with a hidden back, you can run the cables through it and back
into the main compartment of the case to improve the airflow and aesthetics. Firstly,
connect the USB 3.0/2.0 (the one with lots of pins) cable to the header labelled
USB2.0/3.0 on the motherboard. Find a cable labelled audio, that has two by five
holes, with one hole filled in. Connect it to a matching header that is labelled audio
or something similar. Depending on your case, there might be cables for LEDs. Each
motherboard is different, so you will have to locate the text on the motherboard that
corresponds to the cable.
13) Get the SATA cables out from the motherboard box. Attach them to the SATA
ports on the back of your hard/solid state drive(s) and to the motherboard. It is
possible that your motherboard has SATA II and SATA III ports. In this case, attach
your fastest drives to the SATA III. Finally, connect your optical drive in the same
way. The ports are interchangeable, it doesnt matter which ones you leave vacant.

14) Most of the logic for your PC is now complete, but everything still needs power.
Begin by hooking up the large, two by twelve motherboard cable to the only place it
fits on the motherboard. Connect the 8-pin CPU power to its header near the CPU.

Plug the SATA power cable (see image) into each one of your storage drives. Each
wire has multiple SATA power connectors so you can use it for several drives.

15) If you have a graphics card, we will install it now. If not, you are done; proceed
to the next chapter. First, take the card out of its antistatic wrap. Hold the card up to
the first PCIe slot on the motherboard with the IO ports facing to the back of the case.
You will see covers (likely held in by thumb screws) that you need to remove.
Depending on the width of the card, will need to unscrew and remove either one, two
or three of them. Unlatch the tab on the PCIe slot and slide the graphics card in you
will hear a snap when it is secure. Put the screws back in where they were.

16) The graphics card with require either six pin, or six and eight pin power. Consult
your motherboard manual or just look to see how many power pins it can house.

17) Finish by connecting the case fan or extra LEDs to convenient 3-pin connectors on
the motherboard.
18) Tidy up inside and close the case. This is a good time to do some cable
management.

The First Boot

Getting Started
Lets get ready for the first boot. Plug the monitor into your video port of choice, the PSU into the
wall (using the wire from its box), and the peripherals (keyboard and mouse) into the USB ports.
Press the power button and hope for the best. Some text should appear on the screen with some
general system specs, and if no significant errors are displayed then you are ready to install the
operating system.

How to Troubleshoot
Okay, so it was a no-go on the first time. If you have a diagnosable error on the screen then go ahead
and Google it, or attempt to fix it yourself (turn off the computer first). Also, check inside the case for
any yellow or red LEDs that might be trying to warn you of an error. If you see a red light beside the
component: (1) wiggle the component or cable to make sure its seated properly and (2) make sure
everything looks operational in the area.

When Things Start Beeping

The computer runs a self-test when it boots to make sure all is in order. If it starts beeping and wont
continue, that is the first sign of a problem. Restart the computer. If the beeping persists, then consult
the beep codes for YOUR motherboards specific basic input-output system (BIOS) check the
motherboard manual if you are unsure.

Installing Software
The Operating System
Youve assembled your computer and hooked up the peripherals; but you cant use it yet! First, we
must install an operating system, which you should have chosen by now. This guide will go through
the process of installing Windows 8, but other OS are just as easy. Note that there are other equally
valid ways of installing Windows.
1)

Purchase Windows 8 from your local retailer in disc format

2)
Turn the computer on and insert the disc into your optical drive. Wait for it to be
recognized and press enter. Be patient while it loads.
3) Select your language and click install. Enter the product key on the package. Agree to
the terms and conditions. Press Custom. It should find the drive that was installed. If you
have more than one storage device, select the one where want Windows to be installed
(usually the faster one). Click Next and wait it could take a while.
4) Personalize your PC with a colour scheme and a password.

Drivers
Windows (or another OS) has already given you the basic drivers for your components. But to get the
most out of your motherboard and graphics card you will need the up-to-date drivers from the
manufacturer. In the motherboard box, there should be a CD that is labelled as drivers or something
similar. DO NOT use it - it is usually out of date. Instead, check if it lists a website where you can
get the newest drivers. Go to that website on your PC and follow the instructions. If you have an
AMD or NVidia graphics card, you can get the drivers from their websites.

Overclocking
Overclocking is the way to get the most out of your components. It allows you to change the clock
speed of your CPU, graphics card and RAM to be faster than the factory defaults. The downside is
that overclocking will cause your components to heat up and could void your warranty if something
breaks. It should only be considered if your case has good airflow and you are willing to assume the
risk of tinkering with your components. Different programs are used for different components and are
usually company specific. For example, MSI Afterburner or Sapphire Trixx are the most popular for
AMD graphics cards, while AI Suite is used for Asus motherboards. Before you overclock,
investigate overclocking in general, and how well your specific components respond to being
overclocked.

Maintenance
Cleaning
The dust that pollutes your computer builds up little-by-little and covers the components. This can
hinder their performance and can be seriously harmful if left unchecked. You should open and clean
your computer every four to five months. Unplug your computer, open the case, and use a rag and a
hand held vacuum to clean in and around your components. If the case has removable dust shields,
slide them out, wash them with water dry them thoroughly, and reinstall.

Disk Defragmentation
As mentioned previously, the data on your hard drive is stored in a physical location. When you
delete files it creates gaps in the data. Over time, these gaps become so frequent that your data is
separated and spread out across the drive. Disk defragmenting will localize your data to one spot on
the drive, so the head doesnt have to move as far, or as often, improving performance. To defragment
on Windows 7 or 8, search Disk Defragmenter or Defragment your hard drive respectively.
Select the disc, click analyze, and it will tell you how fragmented it is. If its above two percent, you
should probably click optimize or defragment to defragment the disc. Note that this is only for
mechanical hard drives, not for SSDs. In fact, it is often said that defragmenting an SSD will shorten
its operational lifetime.