-1-
DXL Group requests that at least six lab dip trials be sent with each submission. Two sets of lab
dip trials should be submitted to the local Agent/Vendor office, one for their reference and one for
DXL Groups reference. The lab dips must be sent to the Sourcing Manager who then reviews the
lab dip for approval. All lab dips must:
Measure 3 x 3
Have an Up arrow to show in what direction it was viewed for evaluation
drawn on the face. Especially critical for any napped or textured submit.
Lab dips should be submitted to the local Agent/Vendor order office within 20 working days after
receipt of reference, screened and submitted to DXL Groups by Agent/Vendor within 5 working
days. DXL Group will advise results within 5 working days after receipt of lab dip. DXL Group
should receive re-submits within 10 days of request.
Note: For non-certified mills, if the same color/same style was used in a previous season the
Vendor/Factory must have the lab dip re-approved. An exception would be an ongoing,
uninterrupted program. In this case, only new colors must be submitted for approval.
Each of the lab dip trials within a submission must be labeled: A, B, C, D, E and F.
The second submission, if required, should follow the sequence and be labeled G,
H, I, J, K and L and so on. In addition, each of these submissions must be labeled
as 1st, 2nd, etc. i.e. 1st submission with lab dip trials of A, B, C, D, E, F. 2nd
submission with lab dip trials of G, H, I, J, K and L
Lab dip submissions must include the X-factory and 1st DC date. Lab dips must
be submitted in the correct fiber content, construction and weight. Lab dips must
be attached to a Submit Approval Form; face side up using double sided tape.
The same fabric from the same mill, for different styles, can be grouped in a lab dip
submission, so that the Vendor/Factory needs only that single submission to cover
those styles. All relevant style #s must be clearly identified on the submission.
Evaluation and Approval of Lab Dips
Lab dips will be visually assessed under DXL Groups primary lighting source (CWF) Cool White
Florescent and our secondary lighting source is D65 Daylight by the Sourcing Manager. The
Sourcing Manager will advise Agent/Vendor by email If a lab dip is approved. If all lab dips fail, the
Sourcing Manager will give direction to the Agent/Vendor and Trim, Color & Fabric Manager. If,
after the third submission, a lab dip is not satisfactory, the following personnel are to be notified to
determine if the submit can be considered as Best Can Do: Buyer, Trim, Color & Fabric Manager.
It is the Vendors responsibility to submit all lab dips that meet DXL Group's requirements with in
time and action calendar. If delivery date is delayed, due to untimely or unacceptable submissions,
it is the Vendors responsibility to pay any additional expense necessary to meet DXL Groups instore date.
-2-
Lab dipping Solid Piece-Dyed Ground Colors for Placement Screen Prints
Solid piece dyed grounds which will be used for Placement Screen Prints will follow our standard
procedure for lab dipping piece dyed fabrics for all colors, including whites.
Bulk Submissions
For Bulk approvals, 2 submits will be sent on the Submit Approval Form to the Sourcing Manager
(one for Hand Feel/Quality and One for Color). The color submits will be reviewed by the Sourcing
Manager for color approval. Bulk fabric submission must include the ex-factory date and 1st DC
date. Bulk fabric must be submitted in the correct fiber content, construction and weight. Bulk
fabric must be attached face side up and measure a minimum of 6 x 6. The same fabric can be
submitted for different styles so that the Vendor/Factory needs only that single submission to cover
those styles. All relevant style #s must be clearly identified on the submission. All bulk
submissions must be submitted on the submit approval form. Bulk fabric is compared to the lab
dip.
Bulk submissions should be approved for quality, including hand-feel, weight, and finishing prior to
color approval. Bulk must be resubmitted for both quality and color approval if first rejected. If the
Sourcing Manager rejects the quality or rejects the color, bulk must be resubmitted for both
approvals. The cover letter must clearly state the reason(s) for the resubmit.
Evaluation and Approval of Bulk Fabric
Bulk fabric will be visually assessed under DXL Groups primary lighting source (CWF) Cool White
Fluorescent and our secondary lighting source is D65 Daylight to for approval. The Sourcing
Manager will advise Agent/Vendor by e-mail if bulk fabric is approved. If all submits fail, the
Sourcing Manager will give direction to the Agent/Vendor Colorist. If after the third submission,
bulk fabric submission is not satisfactory, the following personnel are to be notified to determine if
the submit can be considered for commercial acceptability as Best Can Do: Trim, Color & Fabric
Manager and Buyer.
It is the Vendors responsibility within the time and action calendar to submit all bulk fabric
that meet DXL Groups digital requirements. If delivery date is delayed due to untimely or
unacceptable submissions, it is the Vendors responsibility to pay any additional expense
necessary to meet DXL Group in-store date.
Hand Looms & Knit Downs
Yarn Dye Stripes/Plaids by Style
All Handlooms and Knit Downs are submitted in the correct fabric using actual colors on the Submit
Approval Form to the Product Manager. The Product Manager hands off the submittal to the
Textile Designer for layout and color approval. If it is a garment washed program, all submittals
must be after wash and indicated as such on the form.
The Textile Designer is responsible for approving yarn dye colors and layout, in a
handloom or knit down with skeins as state.
-3-
In cooperation the Sourcing Manager and Trim, Color & Fabric Manager may request color
analysis assistance if the yarn dye has a matching requirement to a solid or there is
significant color coverage, which must match to a solid approval. All correspondence
regarding handloom and knit down approval is transmitted by the Trim, Color & Fabric
Manager, who retains responsibility and ownership of knit downs and handlooms.
The Trim, Color & Fabric Manager may request a change of color or shade in the pattern
due to overall aesthetics of the layout even though the color is approved in the individual
yarn-dye color skeins.
For all yarn dyes, vendor must include the individual skeins along with the handloom or
knit down in order to see the individual colors used in the yarns.
It is the Vendors responsibility to submit all handlooms and knit downs that meet DXL Group's
requirements with in time and action calendar. If delivery date is delayed, due to untimely or
unacceptable submissions, it is the Vendors responsibility to pay any additional expense
necessary to meet DXL Groups in-store date.
All Over Fabric Prints
All strike-off submissions must include the printing method used, i.e. pigment, reactive, discharge,
etc. If it is a garment washed program, all submittals must be after wash and indicated as such on
the form.
The Trim, Color & Fabric Manager is responsible for approving print ground color and print
pattern colors, layout and registration. All print pattern color submissions must be on the
approved ground color.
In cooperation with the Sourcing Manager, the Trim, Color & Fabric Manager may request
color analysis assistance if the print has a matching requirement to a solid or there is a
significant color coverage, which must match to a solid approval. All correspondence
regarding print color approval is transmitted by the Trim, Color & Fabric Manager who
retains responsibility and ownership of strike-offs.
The Trim, Color & Fabric Manager may request a change of color or shade in the pattern
due to the overall aesthetics of the pattern even though the print colors are correct.
It is the Vendors responsibility to submit all strike offs that meet DXL Group's requirements
with in time and action calendar. If delivery date is delayed, due to untimely or
unacceptable submissions, it is the Vendors responsibility to pay any additional expense
necessary to meet DXL Groups in-store date.
All Over Heathers
The Trim, Color & Fabric Manager /Buyer will provide color references to use as a guideline
standard. Based upon this standard, the Vendor will submit bulk references. The Trim, Color &
Fabric Manager is responsible for heather color approval when not used in a pattern. If it is a
garment washed program, all submittals must be after wash and indicated as such on the form.
The Vendor should submit the standard to us at the beginning of the season for DXL Groups
reference.
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It is the Vendors responsibility to submit options that meet DXL Group's requirements with
in time and action calendar. If delivery date is delayed, due to untimely or unacceptable
submissions, it is the Vendors responsibility to pay any additional expense necessary to
meet DXL Groups in-store date.
Color standards- The Trim, Color & Fabric Manager /Buyer will provide wash references to use as
a guideline standard. The Vendor/Factory will submit a series of washed standards, indicting the
color, hand feel, finishing and weight. All washed standard submissions must be submitted to the
Product Manager on the Submit Approval Form. The Trim, Color & Fabric Manager will provide a
sample of the approved wash standard to the vendor.
The Vendor/Factory will submit a series of washed standards, indicating color, hand-feel,
finishing, weight and abrasion quality they can meet. All washed standard submissions
must be submitted to the Trim, Color & Fabric Manager on the Submit Approval Form,
indicating both the before wash and after wash weight. Shade band approval decisions will
be made against this approved washed standard.
Bulk/ Shade Band Submission
Shade bands are submitted to the Trim, Color & Fabric Manager or treated washed programs,
from bulk fabric. Shade bands must be sewn samples with a seam and a hem, following
construction methods ordered for that particular program or as otherwise specified and agreed
upon case by case. All shade bands must be submitted on the Submit Approval Form. All
submittals must be after wash and indicated as such on the form.
Shade bands must include the X-factory and 1st in DC date. Shade bands must be submitted in
the ordered fiber content, construction and weight. . Contracted weight and actual weight must be
indicated. Shade bands must be attached to a card stock and each shade labeled with a letter A,
B, C, D, E, F, etc. A minimum of 5 or a maximum of 10 shades should be submitted. A range of
achievable color, from the lightest shade to the darkest shade should be submitted for this approval
process.
The Trim, Color & Fabric Manager will make a decision as to the acceptable range of color and
communicate this decision to the Agent/Vendor.
Shade Band Approval
DXL Group Trim, Color & Fabric Manager will determine the acceptable range of variation of the
shades compared to the approved washed standard. DXL Group Trim, Color & Fabric Manager
will review the shades using a visual assessment in the light box, under Cool White light. A
secondary light source of D65 may be used to check for metamerism. Agent/Vendor will be
advised of the shades that are approved, using the letter notation.
-5-
Panel/Garment approval
When any hand finishing is used (such as sandblasting, whiskers), entire panels or garments are
required to approve the placement and concentration of the finishing.
Trim and findings, on unwashed garment programs only, must be submitted on the Submit
Approval Form. All trims must be submitted on approved bulk fabric color. All trims are
visually reviewed to meet DXL Group requirements. DXL Group Sourcing Mangers will visually
assess all DTM trims under Cool White and D65 light to check for metamerism.
The Sourcing Manager will advise Agent/Vendor by e-mail if trim color is approved or give direction
for resubmits. DXL Group Product Manager will visually assess all other trims, other than DTM, for
color approval. The Sourcing Manager will advise Agent/Vendor by e-mail if trim color is approved
or give direction for resubmits. If, after the third submission, trim color is not satisfactory, the
following personnel are to be notified to determine if the submit can be considered for commercial
acceptability as Best Can Do: Trim, Color & Fabric Manager, Buyer.
It is the Vendors responsibility to submit trims that meet DXL Group visual requirements.
If untimely or a series of unacceptable submissions causes a delivery delay, it is the
Vendors responsibility to pay any additional expense necessary to meet DXL Group in
store- date.
Trim and Findings are defined as:
Trim: decorative material such as ribbon, lace, or any other ornamentation.
Findings: functional materials such as zippers, buttons, elastic, pocketing or any other material
used in the construction of a garment. A complete zipper must be submitted in each color
including the zipper pull and zipper teeth.
Embroidery/Appliqu Approval Form
Embroideries and appliqus must be submitted on the Submit Approval Form. All submits must
be on approved bulk fabric color and quality. All colors used in the submission, thread, fabric
or trim, must be indicated. DXL Group Trim, Color & Fabric Manager will visually assess all
embroideries/appliqus for quality and color approval. The Trim, Color & Fabric Manager will
advise Agent/Vendor by e-mail if the submit is approved or give direction for resubmits.
Confirmation Form
This is used strictly for confirmation of any fabric or trim quality direction whether it is color, pattern,
layout, finishing or any other question the Vendor or Trim, Color & Fabric Manager may have. It is
not intended to be used for any approval.
-6-
Technical Designer issues costing specifications in the form of a tech pack. This is inclusive of a
technical sketch, construction and styling details, fully graded size specification, and all brand
requirements.
Outcome
o Vendor issues garment cost and makes a Counter sample to be sent to the Sourcing
Manager, based on the costing specifications provided by DXL Group
o Counter sample should be properly labeled with a fully completed DXL Group sample tag,
sample cover sheet, printed graded spec, and the Counter samples measurements.
o If vendor is selected, the Sourcing Manager will provide the Counter sample to the
Technical Designer whose name appears on the tech pack for fit/ construction evaluation.
*Sample tag see Form 1, Sample cover sheet see Form 2
Live fit session is conducted with appropriate staff. Overall fit, styling vision, and label placement
will be reviewed. At this point, the Technical Designer may make construction or spec revisions.
Technical Designer issues a comment sheet for the Counter sample to the vendor detailing the
fit/construction evaluation. This will document any new changes in spec, construction, and styling.
If necessary, a revised tech pack will be issued to the vendor including the date of revision.
If the Counter sample is not approved, a revised Fit sample must be sent to DXL Group for
approval.
Vendor should be submitting piece goods, trims, and colors for testing at Bureau Veritas. Both
fabric and finished garment will require testing prior to production
o Counter/Fit sample approval issued by DXL Group along with a Pre-Production status on
tech pack.
o TOP samples must be sent in every color for every order.
Vendor makes a Pre-Production sample; properly labeling it with fully completed DXL Group
sample tag, sample cover sheet, printed graded spec, and Pre-Production samples
measurements, and sends it to the Technical Designer whose name appears on the tech pack.
Sample should be made of actual bulk fabric, with all correct colors, trims, labels, and tags.
A Pre-Production sample should also be sent at this time to Bureau Veritas for a full garment test.
Live fit session is conducted with appropriate staff focusing on fit and construction.
Technical Designer evaluates sample against the (revised) tech pack and spec and issues a
comment sheet detailing the evaluation and any additional spec or styling revisions. If the PreProduction sample is not approved, a revised Pre-production sample must be submitted to DXL
Group for approval.
o Pre-Production sample approval issued by DXL Group with Approved for Production
status on tech pack.
o Pre production samples must be sent in every color for every order.
-7-
Production may now begin providing the vendor has met all of DXL Groups performance testing
standards and adhered to the Social Compliance policies.
Vendor submits a TOP sample for the Technical Designers evaluation and reference.
Outcome
o TOP sample approval issued by DXL Group.
* See sample requirements section.
Technical Designer issues costing specifications in the form of a tech pack. This is inclusive of a
technical sketch, construction and styling details, fully graded size specification, and all brand
requirements.
Outcome
o Vendor issues garment cost and makes a Counter sample to be sent to the Sourcing
Manager, based on the costing specifications provided by DXL Group
o Counter sample should be properly labeled with a fully completed DXL Group sample tag,
sample cover sheet*, printed graded spec, and the Counter samples measurements.
o If vendor is selected, the Sourcing Manager will provide the Counter sample to the
Technical Designer whose name appears on the tech pack for fit/ construction evaluation.
*Sample tag see Form 1, Sample cover sheet see Form 2
Technical Designer issues complete tech pack. This is inclusive of a technical sketch, construction
and styling details, fully graded size specification, and all brand requirements.
Outcome
o Vendor makes a Fit sample, properly labeling it with fully completed DXL Group sample
tag, sample cover sheet*, printed graded spec, and the vendors evaluation of the fit
samples measurements, and sends to the Technical Designer whose name appears on
the tech pack.
o Fit sample should be made of the closest available fabric.
*Sample tag see Form 1, Sample cover sheet see Form 2
styling. If necessary, a revised tech pack will be issued to the vendor including the date of
revision.
If the Counter/ Fit sample is not approved, a revised Fit sample must be sent to DXL Group for
approval.
-8-
Vendor should be submitting piece goods, trims, and colors for testing to Bureau Veritas . Both
fabric and finished garment will require testing prior to production
Outcome
o Counter/Fit sample approval issued by DXL Group along with a Pre-Production status on
tech pack.
o
Step Three: Pre-Production Approval
Vendor makes a Pre-Production sample, properly labeling it with fully completed DXL Group
sample tag, sample cover sheet, printed graded spec, and the Pre-Production samples
measurements, and sends it to the Technical Designer whose name appears on the tech pack.
Sample should be made of actual bulk fabric, with all correct colors, trims, labels, and tags if
available.
A Pre-Production sample should also be sent at this time to Bureau Veritas for a full garment test.
Live fit session is conducted with appropriate staff focusing on fit and construction.
Technical Designer evaluates sample against the (revised) tech pack and spec and issues a
comment sheet detailing the evaluation and any additional spec or styling revisions. If the PreProduction sample is not approved, a revised Pre-production sample must be submitted to DXL
Group for approval.
Outcome
o Pre-Production sample approval issued by DXL Group with Approved for Production
status on tech pack.
Step Four: Top of Production Approval
Production may now begin providing the vendor has met all of DXL Groups performance testing
standards and adhered to the Social Compliance policies.
Vendor submits a TOP sample for the Technical Designers evaluation and reference.
Outcome
o TOP sample approval issued by DXL Group.
* See sample requirements section.
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Form 1
- 10 -
Form 2
- 11 -
Mens Big and Tall Sample Size Requirements for Fit Evaluation:
Big
Tall
Costing
Fit
PP
TOP
CATEGORY
Knits & Sweaters
2XL
5XLT
1 Big
1 Big
Activewear
2XL
5XLT
1 Big
1 Big
Loungewear
2XL
5XLT
1 Big
1 Big
XL/2XL
3XLT/
4XLT
1 Big
1 Big
Woven shirts
2XL
5XLT
1 Big
1 Big
Elastic Waist
Bottoms
2XL
5XLT
1 Big
1 Big
Sized waist
48X32
42X36
1 Big
1 Big
Dress Shirts
18
34/35
20
37/38
1 Big
1 Big
Dress Pants
48X32
42X36
1 Big
1 Big
Dress Clothing
52R
60L
1 Big
1 Big
Outerwear
2XL
5XLT
1 Big
1 Big
1 Tall
1 Big of lightest
color
1 Tall of lightest
color
1 Big of lightest
color
1 Tall of lightest
color
1 Big of lightest
color
1 Tall of lightest
color
1 Big of lightest
color
1 Tall of lightest
color
1 Big of lightest
color
1 Tall of lightest
color
1 Big of lightest
color
1 Tall of lightest
color
1 Big of lightest
color
1 Tall of lightest
color
1 Big of lightest
color
1 Tall of lightest
color
1 Big of lightest
color
1 Tall of lightest
color
1 Big of lightest
color
1 Tall of lightest
color
1 Big of lightest
color
1 Tall of lightest
color
Robes
Note : An exceptional random T.O.P review will be applied by our technical team where if
deemed necessary. TOPs for core & replenishment styles only need to be submitted every six
months
- 12 -
All samples must be sent in proper sequence and approved before the next sample in the
sequence can be produced and submitted.
The Global Sourcing Departments commitment is to review all samples and send out comments
within 72 hours of receipt of the garment.
DXL Group reserves the right to require additional samples from the vendor as necessary.
It is the responsibility of the vendor to ensure that all production accurately reflects all sample
approvals. If production does not match approved Fit, PP, and TOP samples, the order is subject
to cancellation or a reduction in price at the sole discretion of DXL Group.
TALL
2XL
4XL
6XL
XLT
3XLT
5XLT
2XL
2XL
XL/2XL
2XL
2XL
4XL
4XL
3XL/4XL
4XL
4XL
6XL
6XL
6XL
6XL
XLT
XLT
XLT/2XLT
XLT
XLT
3XLT
3XLT
3XLT/4XLT
3XLT
3XLT
5XLT
5XLT
5XLT
5XLT
48 X 32
48 X 32
54 X 30
54 X 30
60 X 28
60 X 28
42 X 36
42 X 36
50 X 38
50 X 38
58 X 34
58 X 34
24 34/35
16 35/36
19 35/36
56 L
5XLT
Dress Shirts
18 34/35
Dress Pants
48 X 32
54 X 30
60 X 28
42 X 36
17
37/38
50 X 38
52 R
2XL
58 R
4XL
64 R
6XL
44 L
XLT
50 L
3XLT
Dress Clothing
Outerwear
20
32/33
58 X 34
When DXL Group is creating a new Block (silhouette) or revising a current Block, a size run will be
requested to properly evaluate the fit throughout the full range of sizes. Additionally, all new vendors and/or
factories will be required to submit a size run for approval.
- 13 -
Retail
Advertising
Samples for all
Private Label
3 of Each
Catalog
Advertising
Samples for all
Private Label
1 of Each
Web Advertising
Samples *casual
and denim
bottoms
1 Each
Retail
Advertising
Samples for all
National Brands
1 of Each
XL
XL
NA
XL
XL
XL
LT/XLT
XL
XLX34
36X34
17 - 36/37
36X34
44 Long
XL
XL
XL
LT/XLT
XL
XLX34
36X34
17 - 36/37
36X34
44 Long
XL
NA
NA
NA
NA
*2XLX32
*46X32
NA
NA
NA
XL
XL
LT/XLT
XL
XL
36X34
17 - 36/37
36X34
44 Long
XL
NA
Catalog
Advertising
Samples for all
National Brands
1 of Each
L
XL
XL
LT/XLT
XL
XL
36X34
17 - 36/37
36X34
44 Long
XL
Retail advertising samples (Private Label) - must be sent to the Global Sourcing Department (attn.
Sourcing Manager) and should include 2 of every color/style in production quality fabric. See above chart
for sizes.
Catalog advertising samples (Private Label) - must be sent to the Global Sourcing Department (attn.
Sourcing Manager) and should include 1 of every color/style in production quality fabric. Due to earlier
deadline, sample yardage in closest available quality/ color will be accepted. These samples cannot be
mutilated. See above chart for sizes.
Retail and Catalog advertising samples (National Brands) - must be sent to the Merchandising
Department (attn. Assistant Buyer) and should include 1 of every color of production quality fabric. See
above chart for sizes. Calendar of sample requirement deadlines will be provided separately on a yearly
basis.
Retail Advertising
Samples for all
Private Label
1 of Each
L
L
L
LT/XLT
Catalog Advertising
Samples for all
Private Label
1 of Each
L
L
L
LT/XLT
- 14 -
Retail Advertising
Samples for all
National Brands
1 of Each
L
L
L
LT/XLT
Catalog Advertising
Samples for all
National Brands
1 of Each
L
L
L
LT/XLT
Woven Shirts
Elastic Waist
Bottoms
Sized Waist
Pants
Shorts
Dress Shirts
Dress Pants
Dress Clothing
Outerwear
L
L
32 Inseam
36 X 34
L
L
32 Inseam
36 X 34
L
L
32 Inseam
36 X 34
L
L
32 Inseam
36 X 34
36 waist or L
16 - 34/35
36X34
44 Long
L
36 waist or L
16 - 34/35
36X34
44 Long
L
36 waist or L
16 - 34/35
36X34
44 Long
L
36 waist or L
16 - 34/35
36X34
44 Long
L
Retail Advertising Samples (Private Label) - must be sent to the Global Sourcing Department (attn.
Sourcing Manager) and should include 1 of every color/style in production quality fabric. See above chart
for sizes.
Catalog advertising samples (Private Label) - must be sent to the Global Sourcing Department (attn.
Sourcing Manager) and should include 1 of every color/style in production quality fabric. Due to earlier
deadline, sample yardage in closest available quality/ color will be accepted or DXL will advise what
samples will be constructed and digitally printed. These samples cannot be mutilated. See above chart for
sizes.
Retail and Catalog advertising samples (National Brands) - must be sent to the Merchandising
Department (attn. Assistant Buyer) and should include 1 of every color of production quality fabric. See
above chart for sizes. Calendar of sample requirement deadlines will be provided separately on a yearly
basis.
Where to send samples:
DXL Group
Attn: (Appropriate Department/ Person - as previously indicated)
555 Turnpike Rd.
Canton MA, 02021
781 821-2500
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