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  • Coastal Morphodynamics Guide

    Diunggah oleh

    Roberto10375
    22 tayangan28 halaman
    This document discusses coastal morphodynamics and beach morphology. It begins with an introduction to coastal morphodynamics, which is the study of coastal geomorphological evolution in response to hydrodynamics. Several key coastal morphological features are then described in detail, including ripples, berms, cusps, beach ridges, dunes, bars, spits, shoals, tombolos, deltas, and barrier islands. Factors that control coastal morphology are also examined. The document provides an overview of coastal landforms and the processes that shape them over various spatial and temporal scales.

    Deskripsi Asli:

    costas

    Judul Asli

    3.1 Morfodinamica I

    Hak Cipta

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    This document discusses coastal morphodynamics and beach morphology. It begins with an introduction to coastal morphodynamics, which is the study of coastal geomorphological evolution in response to hydrodynamics. Several key coastal morphological features are then described in detail, including ripples, berms, cusps, beach ridges, dunes, bars, spits, shoals, tombolos, deltas, and barrier islands. Factors that control coastal morphology are also examined. The document provides an overview of coastal landforms and the processes that shape them over various spatial and temporal scales.

    Hak Cipta:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Unduh sebagai PDF, TXT atau baca online dari Scribd
    Tandai sebagai konten tidak pantas
    22 tayangan28 halaman

    Coastal Morphodynamics Guide

    Diunggah oleh

    Roberto10375
    This document discusses coastal morphodynamics and beach morphology. It begins with an introduction to coastal morphodynamics, which is the study of coastal geomorphological evolution in response to hydrodynamics. Several key coastal morphological features are then described in detail, including ripples, berms, cusps, beach ridges, dunes, bars, spits, shoals, tombolos, deltas, and barrier islands. Factors that control coastal morphology are also examined. The document provides an overview of coastal landforms and the processes that shape them over various spatial and temporal scales.

    Hak Cipta:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Unduh sebagai PDF, TXT atau baca online dari Scribd
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    dari 28

    MORFODINAMICA DE PLAYAS I

    jose.jimenez@upc.edu

    Morfodinmica
    Parte I. Aspectos generales

    Jos A. Jimnez
    LIM/UPC ETSECCPB
    Barcelona
    jose.jimenez@upc.edu

    Jos A. Jimnez

    MORFODINAMICA DE PLAYAS I
    jose.jimenez@upc.edu

    Subsistema
    natural

    Funciones
    usuario

    Morfodinmica costera es el estudio


    de la evolucin (temporal y espacial)
    de la geomorfologa costera como
    respuesta a la hidrodinmica costera
    (ondas y corrientes).

    Infraestructura

    Jos A. Jimnez

    MORFODINAMICA DE PLAYAS I
    jose.jimenez@upc.edu

    Complex Interactions

    Jos A. Jimnez

    MORFODINAMICA DE PLAYAS I
    jose.jimenez@upc.edu

    Balance Sedimentario
    Artificial nourishment
    Transport from
    rivers and estuaries,
    especially during storms

    Artificial mining
    Longshore transport
    out of area

    Wind erosion or overwash due


    to storm surge, and waves

    Cliff erosion

    Deposition into bays & estuaries

    Dune erosion

    Offshore losses
    during storms
    Onshore transport
    after storms
    Longshore transport
    Into system
    NSW Government, Public Works Dept, 1986. Beach Dunes

    Jos A. Jimnez

    MORFODINAMICA DE PLAYAS I
    jose.jimenez@upc.edu

    microscale
    (sec - min; mm - cm)
    mesoscale
    (hr - day; m - km)
    macroscale
    (mon - yr; km - 10km)
    megascale
    (10yr - 100yr; 10km - 100km)

    Jos A. Jimnez

    MORFODINAMICA DE PLAYAS I
    jose.jimenez@upc.edu

    Espacio

    Tiempo

    Jos A. Jimnez

    MORFODINAMICA DE PLAYAS I
    jose.jimenez@upc.edu

    Escalas temporales y espaciales del modelado morfodinmico


    TIME SCALE
    MICRO
    sec-min

    MACRO
    mon-yr

    MEGA
    decade-century

    Fully 3D

    shoals
    large-scale
    sand banks morphology change

    SPACE SCALE

    One-line

    MESO
    m-km

    Analytical

    MACRO
    km-10 km

    MEGA
    sub-regional
    regional

    turbulence

    wind
    waves

    scour

    bars

    Schematic 3D Multi-line

    RESPONSE, SPACE

    Profile Change

    grains

    ripples

    MICRO
    mm-cm

    MESO
    hr-day

    sea level rise


    tides
    coastal currents
    seasonal waves and tideswave climate

    FORCING, TIME

    Jos A. Jimnez

    MORFODINAMICA DE PLAYAS I
    jose.jimenez@upc.edu

    Transporte transversal Cambios en el perfil

    Profile A Beach shaped by


    normal wave action

    t = hours-days

    Profile B Storm wave


    attack

    Profile C After storm, normal


    wave action rebuilds
    new berm

    t = weeks-months

    Profile D Under normal wave


    action beach returns
    to berm profile

    Jos A. Jimnez

    MORFODINAMICA DE PLAYAS I
    jose.jimenez@upc.edu

    Transporte longitudinal Cambios en planta

    Jose.jimenez@upc.edu

    Jos A. Jimnez

    MORFODINAMICA DE PLAYAS I
    jose.jimenez@upc.edu

    Wright and Short (1984) Modelo estados de playa

    Jos A. Jimnez

    MORFODINAMICA DE PLAYAS I
    jose.jimenez@upc.edu

    Jos A. Jimnez

    MORFODINAMICA DE PLAYAS I
    jose.jimenez@upc.edu

    Estados de playa lmites

    Perfiles representativos
    Playa reflejante : (Costa Brava)

    Tamao de grano 0.6mm


    Berma relativamente alta
    Tan 0.1

    Playa disipativa (Costa Dorada &


    Ebro delta)

    Tamao de grano 0.25mm


    Berma relativamente baja
    Tan 0.01
    Jos A. Jimnez

    H
    DE PLAYAS I
    MORFODINAMICA
    = b

    T
    jose.jimenez@upc.edu
    s

    11/12/05
    50000

    c d e f

    c d e f

    Pb (N/s)

    13/12/05 40000
    30000

    20000

    07/01/06 10000
    4

    08/01/06

    09/01/06

    10

    10/01/06

    / 12

    / 05
    15

    /12

    / 05
    20

    /12

    / 05
    25

    /12

    /05
    30

    / 12

    /05
    04

    /01

    / 06
    09

    /01

    / 06
    14

    / 01

    /06
    19

    / 01

    / 06

    Date

    =H/wT
    25/01/06
    Jos A. Jimnez

    24

    / 01

    / 06

    MORFODINAMICA DE PLAYAS I
    jose.jimenez@upc.edu

    1000

    1000

    1000

    run

    500

    500

    500

    50 100
    t=0

    50 100

    Conditions 1
    t = 3.8 d

    Tp (s)

    offshore conditions
    (d = )
    Hs (m)

    ()

    6.5

    2.0

    1.3

    92

    9.5

    2.1

    1.7

    83

    50 100

    Conditions 2
    t = 1.3 d

    Jos A. Jimnez

    MORFODINAMICA DE PLAYAS I
    jose.jimenez@upc.edu

    Factores que controlan la Morfodinmica costera

    Jos A. Jimnez

    MORFODINAMICA DE PLAYAS I
    jose.jimenez@upc.edu

    Morphological Features
    ripples
    berms
    cusps
    ridge and runnel system (beach ridges)
    dunes
    longshore bars
    spits
    shoals
    tombolo
    deltas
    barrier islands
    Jos A. Jimnez

    MORFODINAMICA DE PLAYAS I
    jose.jimenez@upc.edu

    Ripples

    Jos A. Jimnez

    MORFODINAMICA DE PLAYAS I
    jose.jimenez@upc.edu

    Jos A. Jimnez

    MORFODINAMICA DE PLAYAS I
    jose.jimenez@upc.edu

    Beach Cusps

    Material grueso

    Material fino
    Jos A. Jimnez

    MORFODINAMICA DE PLAYAS I
    jose.jimenez@upc.edu

    Ridge and Runnel System

    Jos A. Jimnez

    MORFODINAMICA DE PLAYAS I
    jose.jimenez@upc.edu

    Bermas

    Jos A. Jimnez

    MORFODINAMICA DE PLAYAS I
    jose.jimenez@upc.edu

    Barras litorales

    Rip current

    Jos A. Jimnez

    MORFODINAMICA DE PLAYAS I
    jose.jimenez@upc.edu

    Barras litorales

    Jos A. Jimnez

    MORFODINAMICA DE PLAYAS I
    jose.jimenez@upc.edu

    Inlet Shoals

    Flood shoal
    Ebb shoal
    Jos A. Jimnez

    MORFODINAMICA DE PLAYAS I
    jose.jimenez@upc.edu

    Ebb-Tidal Shoals

    Ocean City

    1933

    1995
    Jos A. Jimnez

    MORFODINAMICA DE PLAYAS I
    jose.jimenez@upc.edu

    Spits - flechas

    Fire Island
    Ly Hoa

    Jos A. Jimnez

    MORFODINAMICA DE PLAYAS I
    jose.jimenez@upc.edu

    Tombolos

    Jos A. Jimnez

    MORFODINAMICA DE PLAYAS I
    jose.jimenez@upc.edu

    Deltas

    Clasificacin de deltas
    Mississippi

    Jos A. Jimnez

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