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How to Make Herbal Incense &

Candles
By Karyn Siegel-Maier
Copyright 2001-2009 The Herbal Muse Press

Light-winged Smoke, Icarian bird,


Melting thy pinions in thy upward flight,
Lark without song, and messenger of dawn,
Circling above the hamlets as thy nest;
Or else, departing dream, and shadowy form
Of midnight vision, gathering up thy skirts;
By night star-veiling, and by day
Darkening the light and blotting out the sun;
Go thou my incense upward from this hearth,
And ask the gods to pardon this clear flame.

HENRY DAVID THOREAU


Walden (1854)

Part I: Making Herbal Incense

Incense has been burning on altars for more than 5,000 years. One of the oldest artifacts to
evidence the use of incense during religious rites was found on a tablet placed on the Sphinx at Giza,
Egypt, in about 1533 BC. In ancient times, smoldering incense served to mask the odors of animal
sacrifices, but eventually became an offering in itself. Today, it is used in ceremonies to evoke and
direct personal energy, and in purification rituals. In the West, the use of incense in religious practice
is mainly restricted to Orthodox Eastern churches, and the Roman Catholic Church. The Anglican
Church allows the burning of incense, but it is not integral to the service. Of course, followers of

Native American, or Pagan traditions, use handcrafted incense as a natural expression, and
empowerment, of their spiritual beliefs.
Homemade incense can be prepared from an elaborate formula, or can be as simple as the
sprinkling of a single dried herb on a bed of glowing coals. Some traditional formulas may consist of
endless combinations of dried leaves, roots, flowers, barks, resins and essential oils. Sometimes,
ground semi-precious stones, or empowered crystals, are added to lend their energies, as the
ancient Meso-American peoples did with emeralds. Native Americans use a form of incense known
as smudge, which is basically a bundle of sage leaves woven or bound together. The belief is that as
the sage smolders, the atmosphere is relieved of negative vibrations, similar to the cleansing rite
performed by Catholic priests, who use a mixture of frankincense and myrrh.
Incense making is a forgotten art to all but a few traditionalists. While there are many good
quality brands of incense available on the market, most of them contain artificial ingredients, and
many produce an aroma that is just that - artificial.
This section of our book is dedicated to those of adventurous disposition and spirit. Not
only will you obtain the knowledge needed to make different forms of incense, but you will achieve
the greatest satisfaction from devising private blends to help you cultivate the most reward from your
personal and spiritual endeavors.
There are basically two forms of incense: combustible and noncombustible. We'll tackle the
latter first, since it's by far the easiest method and requires little explanation.
Noncombustible incense is achieved by simply sprinkling a few pinches of dried plant
material, or a blend of materials, on a smoldering charcoal block. That's a charcoal block, not a
charcoal briquette used for the barbecue! Briquettes are of different composition, and give off toxic
amounts of carbon monoxide. Don't use them to burn incense! Instead, occult supply stores, and
many novelty shops carry a supply of raw charcoal blocks for this purpose.
While we're in a cautious mode, let it be said that you should always burn incense in some
type of censor. It could be a censor purchased just for this purpose, or a ceramic dish filled with a
few inches of sand or salt.
Sometimes the sweet aroma of dried plant material can change dramatically when burned!
You'll need to experiment with blends you may already have in mind, or to discover new ones. And,
by using the noncombustible method, your mistakes, if any, will be short lived. I would also advise
that you sample mixtures on smoldering charcoal before proceeding to making them into
combustible incense.
The plant material to be used should be finely ground in a food processor, blender, hand
held coffee grinder, or an old-fashioned mortar and pestle.
Combustible incense is made in the form of sticks (sometimes called joss-sticks), bricks, or
cones. Whatever the volume and shape, combustible incense is always made with potassium nitrate,

better known as salt peter. This helps the incense to burn well, and evenly. You can find potassium
nitrate in nearly any drug store, although you may have to ask the pharmacist for it.
Gum tragacanth (or use gum arabic as a substitute) is made into a glue, and acts as a binding
agent. It is the key ingredient in all molded incense. To make the glue, place a teaspoon of the
ground gum in a glass of warm water and mix completely until dispersed. A foam may rise, but it can
be easily redistributed, or skimmed off if it gets in your way. (The gum is unbelievably absorbent! A
mere ounce will absorb up to one full gallon of water in a single week!) Allow your gum mixture to
absorb the glass of water until it thickens to a paste.
Now you will need to create your incense base. An incense base is made up of talcum
powder, sawdust, ground spice, dried herbs and flowers, or any combination thereof. Once you
have defined your base, an essential oil may be added for additional scent, the potassium nitrate is
blended in, and finally, the gum-glue.

Here's a sample mixture for cone incense:

6 parts powdered sandalwood or cedar


2 parts benzoin
1 part orris root
3-5 parts ground herb mixture of choice
6 drops essential herbal oil of choice

Mix the first four ingredients until well blended. Add the essential oil (or combination of oils)
and mix with your hands until you have a fine, crumbly mixture. Add the dried herb mixture and mix
again. Now add 10% potassium nitrate (KNO3). In other words, use a ratio of 10:1. If you've
made 10 oz. of incense base, then add 1 oz. of KNO3.

Next comes the addition of the glue mixture. Add one teaspoon at a time, mixing with your
hands as you go. Add only enough of the glue to achieve the consistency of model clay or playdough
from the entire mixture.
On a piece of waxed paper, shape the mixture into small cone shapes (just like the store
bought ones you're already familiar with) and allow them to dry for a week in a cool, dry place. The
area you choose to dry the incense cones in must be free of moisture in order to dry thoroughly.
By following the sample recipe given, you can also make stick incense. This requires much
more patience and tenacity than making any other form, but you'll amaze yourself and your
friends...what better reward could you ask for? Plan to spend the better part of a day in making

these.
You will need thin wooden splints or skewers, such as thin, straight twigs, or cocktail
skewers. Each stick is dipped into the incense base until covered. They are then allowed to dry
standing on end, perhaps by poking them into a slab of clay, or a pot of dirt or sand. This process is
repeated until a satisfactory amount of layers have built up on each stick.
Block incense is made by rolling out the final mixture onto wax paper to a -inch
thickness, much like cookie dough. It is then cut into 1 inch squares and allowed to dry thoroughly.
And there you have it! Not so tough, although you will get good use from a kitchen apron
while working the mixtures together! Now, on to some recommended blends, the first of which is an
ancient blend indeed.
Kyphi

Kyphi is an ancient Egyptian formula of which the Greek Essayist, Plutarch (46-120 AD)
said: "its aromatic substances lull to sleep, allay anxieties, and brighten the dreams. It is made of
things that delight most in the night and exhibits its virtues by night."
The following is a traditional recipe for making Kyphi. If you want to stick to it fine, but you
may also omit or substitute certain herbs if some of the ingredients are difficult to obtain.
Place 1/4 cup raisins in a bowl. Add just enough white wine to cover the raisins, cover
loosely with a tea towel or cheesecloth, and allow to steep for seven days.
On the third day, blend equal parts of the following powdered herbs in a bit of white wine:
Juniper, Acacia, Henna, Sweet Sedge Root. After two days drain and reserve any liquid.
On the last day, drain the raisin mixture, reserving the liquid. In a small bowl mix together
equal parts of the following ground herbs: Calamus, Gum Mastic, Peppermint, Bay Laurel, Orris,
Cinnamon, and Galangal. Set aside.
In another small bowl blend together 1 tbls. powdered myrrh, and 1 tbls. clove honey. To
this mixture add the ground herbs, and the raisins and herbs steeped in wine. Blend well. Add a little
of the reserved wine if the mixture becomes too dry. Follow the directions for making cone or block
incense.

~Incense for Special Celebrations~

It should take little to convince you that our sense of smell can influence our mood at any
particular time. The aroma of freshly baked apple pie stirs visions of home and hearth; an exotic
perfume reminds us of a lover; an earthy scent carries us to the first day of spring. Any real estate
agent will tell you that a pot of coffee should be brewing, or a pan of onions and mushrooms
sauting, when prospective buyers come to call. Even the atmosphere of hospitals and the
workplace may become scented, as physical and mental well being is enhanced by indirect
perfuming.
The following suggested blends should help you to make the best of your next special
occasion. They may be sprinkled over a glowing charcoal block, or mixed with a fixative to prepare
block or cone incense.

Christmas #1 ~ 2 parts frankincense, 1 part pine needles (crushed), 1 part ground cinnamon, 1
part ground nutmeg, 1 part cedar (crushed chips), 1 part juniper berries (well dried), 1 part ground
clove.

Christmas #2 ~ 1 part frankincense, 1 part ground cinnamon, 1 part bay leaf (crushed), 1 part
ground clove, 1 part ground mace.

Easter and other celebrations of spring ~


1 part fennel (dried leaves, crushed), 1 part anise seeds (crushed), 1 part coriander seeds (crushed),
pinch of ground cinnamon, 2-3 drops geranium oil.

Halloween ~ 1 part sage (preferably the dried leaves crushed), 1 part arabic gum, 1 part bay
(leaves, crushed), 1 part ground nutmeg, 2-3 drops sandalwood oil, 2-3 drops benzoin oil.

Samhain ~ 2 parts frankincense, 1 part powdered benzoin, 1 part ground cinnamon, pinch of
saffron, 1-2 drops lemongrass oil, 2-3 drops vetiver oil.

St. Valentine's Day ~ 1 part sandalwood, 1 part bergamot, 3 drops patchouli oil, 2-3 drops ylangylang.

Romantic Evening ~ rosemary, 1 part lavender, pinch of basil, 3 drops jasmine oil, 3 drops rose
oil, 2 drops vanilla.

Sweet Summertime ~

#1 - 1 part chamomile (including the dried flowers if possible), 1 part rose petals (crushed), 1 part
mugwort, 2-3 drops of each: lavender, yarrow, and Bois de rose oils.

#2 - 2 parts sandalwood, 1 part benzoin, 1 part lemon balm, 2 drops orange oil.

Blends to Aid Meditation & Psychic Awareness ~

#1 - 1 part sage, 1 part frankincense, 1 part bay, pinch of ginger, 2-3 drops patchouli oil.

#2 - 1 part sandalwood, 1 part ground nutmeg, 1 part gum Arabic, 2-3 drops of each: clove,
orange, clary-sage oils.

~ Incense Papers ~

Incense papers offer an interesting alternative to making traditional forms of incense. Incense
papers are made from blotter paper, which has been soaked in a solution of saltpeter, and are
heavily scented with strong herbal tinctures.
Tinctures are made by just covering dried herbs, finely ground, with ethyl alcohol. Try to
obtain a clear alcohol of at least 70% strength, or 140 proof. If this isn't possible, then use a high
quality vodka above 90 proof.
Place dried, powdered herbs into a glass jar with a tight sealing lid. Add just enough alcohol
to wet the powdered herbs. Secure the lid, and allow to stand for 3 weeks, giving the jar a good
shake each day.
Strain off the liquid through a paper coffee filter into a small bowl. A test of the tincture on
your wrist will tell you if you have a suitable tincture. The alcohol will quickly evaporate, leaving the
scent behind. If not, or if the scent is very faint, you must replace the alcohol and herbal mixture to
the jar, and repeat the entire process.

Once a good tincture has been obtained, you can begin to prepare the papers. Using white
blotting paper, cut strips 5-6 inches in length, and 1 inch in width. Dissolve 2 tsp. KNO3 in 1/2 cup
of very warm water in a shallow pan. Soak each strip of paper in the KNO3 solution until
thoroughly saturated. Hang each strip to dry.
When all the papers have dried completely, you can begin scenting them. Place several
drops of the tincture along one side of each strip. Make sure they are well coated with the scented
tincture, by spreading the drops with a side of a butter knife, the back of a spoon, or other smooth,
non-porous object. When the papers are well coated, hang them to dry once more. Store in air tight
containers, away from heat and direct sunlight.
To light a paper, ignite on end, and quickly blow out the flame. The paper must have air
circulation available in order to burn slowly, and completely. You could devise a container which
holds the paper by a "clip." Or, a censor filled with sand or salt is suitable. The tiny grains can be
manipulated so that the paper stands upright to burn.

Part II: Candles

How far that little candle throws his beams! So shines a good deed in a naughty world.
-- William Shakespeare,

The Merchant of Venice

Candles are a lot of fun to make, and we've been making them for a very long time. Today
we appreciate candles for the ambiance they lend to a romantic evening, but prior to the late 19th
century, candles were an absolute necessity for lighting.
The Romans first learned to fashion candles of beeswax. In medieval Europe, candles made
from tallow (a blend of bullock and sheep fat), were most commonly used. In the 1700's,
spermaceti, the waxy substance obtained from the heads of whales, was introduced to
candlemaking. By the middle 1800's, paraffin wax, and stearin (purified vegetable or animal fat)
found their way into the formula. Stearin became a necessary ingredient since early paraffin candles
were likely to bend with the heat of a burning wick.
Without other forms of lighting, candles were not only a necessity in the 19th century, but
were an expensive, and taxable commodity. Those who were better off financially could afford to
purchase tallow candles. These folks may have been happy with tallow candles, but they gave off

the smell of burning fat! They also had trouble burning well, and unlike wax candles, had to be
"snuffed," meaning cut back, on a regular basis. The wealthy preferred candles of beeswax which
had a much more pleasant scent.
To purchase candles, one went to the "chandler," or dealer in candles. That was his station-at least until the advent of gas lit lamps forced him to shift position to that of a small neighborhood
grocer who supplied the poor with common staples.
The Chandler didn't exist for the poor. They simply made their own tallow candles, and
were no doubt much the wiser for adding a touch of fragrant herb that the other classes weren't
privy to.

Candle Making

There are a few materials you will need to obtain before making your own candles, all of
which can be found in hobby and craft stores. If the list seems lengthy, and you're watching your
budget, don't despair! Many of these items can be fashioned from items around the home, and
others can be purchased very inexpensively. The first of these materials, is of course, a sufficient
amount of wax.
There are basically two types of candle wax: beeswax and refined paraffin. Beeswax is
remarkably easy to work with, since you can buy it in sheets that "roll" into a candle. But, you want
to fashion you own candles, right? And beeswax is very expensive to work with.
Paraffin wax will be the base of your candle, and is available in powder or block form.
The block form presents some difficulty however, since it's necessary to chip away at it to break it
into usable pieces. Sometimes, you can find the 1 ounce size cubes which is more workable. The
powder form of paraffin on the other hand, is quite easy to measure, and it melts very quickly.
The addition of stearin (stearic acid) provides several benefits. It helps the candle to
harden, and burn slowly and evenly; it gives the finished candle an opaque appearance; and it aids
the candle in shrinking and pulling away from the sides of the mold during the hardening stage. For
every part paraffin that you intend to use, mix in 1 part stearin.
Wicking is braided thread, and depending on how many threads are used it can be found in
diameters of one inch to four. Generally, the larger the diameter of your candle, the larger sized wick

is used. Wicking of 1-2 inches in diameter is usually suitable for most average candles. Also
available, is a self supporting wick, which is braided around a metal core.
Molds. Very likely, you already have some suitable candidates for candle molds around your
home. Plastic cartons and containers, ash trays, mason jars, tin cans, pottery, coffee mugs,
glassware, even empty toilet paper rolls (sealed at one end with cardboard, or other sturdy object,
of the same diameter) will suffice. Or, if you want to achieve a "professional" look, you may opt to
purchase ready made molds. Commercial molds may be constructed of metal, glass, or plastic.
Metal containers will produce a smooth, "professional" looking candle, and will last indefinitely if
properly cared for. Whatever type of mold you choose (with the exception of rubber), lightly spray
the interior with vegetable oil, or silicone spray, prior to filling with hot wax.
Mold Sealer. Some molds provide a hole at the base in which to thread a wick. If you're
using one of these, you'll need to seal the opening to prevent melted wax from making its escape.
Ordinary window/tub caulking will do nicely.
Double Boiler. Its much safer to melt wax in a double boiler rather than directly in a pot or
saucepan. If the wax should become overheated, which can easily happen over direct heat, it can
burst into flames. If you dont have a double boiler, and dont wish to invest in one, you can melt the
wax in a used coffee can placed in a pan containing a few inches of boiling water.

Thermometer. You will need to heat the wax to the correct temperature in relation to the type of
mold to be used. If you are using plastic, rubber, or thin molds, the wax should not exceed 170 F
(77 C). If youre using heavier, or thick, metal molds, the wax should not exceed 180F (82C).
Whatever type of mold(s) youre using, never allow the wax to exceed 200 F (93C).

Sticks. You will need sticks, or meat skewers, to hold the wick in place. It should be 1-2 inches
longer than the diameter of the mold. This is a good opportunity to use those Chinese chopsticks
that have been accumulating with every take-out order!

Dropcloth or newspaper. Youll want to protect your working surfaces from spills, etc., especially
if your working in the kitchen.

Miscellaneous. Here are some items that you can count on needing at one time or another: Ladle,
putty knife, hammer & chisel, scissors, funnels, hot glue gun, potholders (or oven mitts), and an
assortment of paint brushes.

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A word about safety... It goes without saying that if you plan to allow your children to craft candles
they should be closely supervised at all times. Use mitts or potholders to handle hot containers, and
please...never leave melting wax unattended! If you must leave the room for whatever reason,
remove the double boiler/container from the stove first. Remember not to exceed the temperature
guidelines given earlier. If the wax should ever burst into flames, never try to douse it with water!
Instead, extinguish the flames by covering the container with a lid, or if this isnt possible, put the fire
out with sand, or baking soda.

~ Making a Candle with an Open Ended Mold ~

The first step is to choose your mold. It could be a yogurt container, or a rimless tin can - anything
with a clean and smooth interior surface will do. Lightly and evenly coat with inside of the mold with
cooking or silicone spray. This step isnt essential, but it does make removing the candle from the
mold much easier. If your mold is wider in diameter at one end than the other, treat the smaller of the
two as the base of your mold.

With a screw driver, drill, or hammer and nail, make a small hole directly in the center of the bottom
of the mold. Now run a piece of wicking through the hole, leaving an excess of an inch longer than
the height of the mold. Seal this end with caulking, or plasticine, to hold the wick in place, and
prevent the wax from leaking. Make sure you smooth the sealing material evenly to be sure youll
have a steady base.
At the other end of the mold, tie off the wick to your stick and place it so that it rests across the rim.
Make sure the wick is taut, and positioned in the center of the mold.

Now youre ready to melt together the paraffin and stearin in a double boiler. Remember to use the
correct ratio of stearin to paraffin: 1oz. stearin for every 10 oz. Of paraffin. Watch the temperature
carefully.

When the wax has reached the proper temperature, carefully pour it off into the mold. Pour a small
amount initially to be sure the wax isnt leaking from the base of the mold. If the base is secure from
leakage, go ahead and fill the mold to about 1/2 an inch below the rim. While holding the stick and
wick in place, gently tap the sides of the filled mold to release any trapped air.
Once the mold has been filled, you have two options to follow to enable the candle to harden. Some
candle makers place the mold into a water bath, which is a trough filled with cool water equal to the
level of the wax. This method will speed up the hardening process, but may result in a cracked and a
mottled surface of your finished candle. Since wax is lighter than water, youll need to weigh the
mold down by placing a heavy object, such as a book, or a dish, on top of the mold. When the wax

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has cooled, place the mold into the refrigerator for 1-2 hours until hardened. You may want to try
using the water bath method if youre making a large batch of candles. If any dont turn out to your
satisfaction, they can always be melted down again. The other method of course, is to simply allow
the candle to harden for 3-4 hours unassisted.

During the cooling process, some shrinkage will occur, and may cause air bubbles to form below the
surface. This can be corrected by piercing the surface a few times with a thin instrument, such as a
toothpick, or skewer. If a depression in the wax develops, just fill it with a bit more melted wax and
allow to cool.

When the candle has completely hardened, use a putty knife to remove the mold sealer from the
base. Next, remove the stick holding the wick in place. While holding the mold over a towel (so the
candle wont dislodge and break on a hard surface) gently tap the base until the candle is released.
If the base is uneven, making the candle unsteady, you can either plane it (with a shaving action), or
place it on a heated pan until it evens out. Trim the wick, and lightly coat it with melted wax using a
small brush.

~ Making a Candle with a Closed Mold ~

Coffee mugs, wide-mouthed jars, pottery, etc., will not give you the advantage of having a pliable
base through which to thread a wick. Attempting to create an opening will obviously result in
disaster. However, there are two methods of wicking a candle made in this type of mold.

The first method is to create a tube for the wick using a thick plastic (not paper) straw. Plug one end
of the tube with caulking or plasticine. Using a screwdriver, poke a hole measuring the same
diameter of the tube into a piece of cardboard large enough to rest on the rim of the mold. Pour 1-2
inches of melted wax into the mold. Now place the tube, plugged end down, into the mold and fit
the cardboard over the tube until it can rest securely on the rim of the mold. Make sure the tube is
centered. Let the wax harden for 30-40 minutes, or until the tube is firmly in place. Remove the
cardboard holder, and finish filling the mold to 1/2 inch below the rim. Replace the cardboard, and
allow the wax to harden for 3-4 hours.

When the candle has completely hardened, remove it by holding the tube and gently tapping the
sides of the mold. Finally, remove the tube. If you have difficulty removing the tube without damaging
your candle, it will help to pour a little hot water into the tube.

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Once the tube is removed, a hole remains through which you can thread the wick. With a length of
wick running through the candle, plug the hole at the base with your mold sealer, and set the candle
on its base. While holding the remaining wick steady and centered, fill the rest of the hole with
melted wax. You may prefer to thread the remaining wick through cardboard, or wrap it around a
stick to rest on the rim of the mold until the liquid wax has hardened. When the candle has
completely hardened, trim and wax the wick.

The other method of wicking this type of molded candle, is to allow the candle to harden in one solid
piece. After removing the candle from its mold, make a hole through its center with a drill (although
you risk cracking the candle) or with a hot ice pick.

~ Dyes ~

Dyes are added when the wax has reached its optimal melting temperature. You must use oil based
coloring agents to successfully color candles. You may recall using crayon shavings in art class in
your elementary schooling years, but these days crayons are chemically treated, and the result will
be a material that refuses to burn. Food coloring, and dyes produced from plant material, are not
suitable either, since they wont mix properly with the wax. Candle dyes are available in powdered
form, or in solid chunks, usually in the primary colors. Different colors are achieved by mixing
combinations of the primary colors, and gradually mixing small amounts into melted wax.

~ Dipped Candles ~

Every candlemaker must try this method at least once! It requires a bit of patience, but the effort is
rewarded with beautiful candles crafted in the traditional manner. And, theres no fuss about the
wick, or fooling around with molds.

To make a dipped candle, simply dip a length of wick repeatedly in melted wax, allowing 30
seconds for hardening between each dipping. Eventually, many layers of wax will develop into an
exquisite candle, the length and width of which is entirely up to its creator.

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~ Scenting Candles ~

Your candles may be scented with herbal essential oils, added to completely melted wax. Only a few
drops will be necessary - adding too much will cause the candle to craze. You also need to
consider the final color of your candle when adding herbal oils for scent. Many herbal oils have a
dark or brownish tinge to them, and will spoil your efforts to make a pure white candle. On the other
hand, if youre adding a lavender scent, why not tint your candle to match the scent? A rose scented
candle may be colored pink to red, or a sandalwood-scented candle could be tinted to take on an
amber hue.

If for whatever reason you wish to produce a white candle, but insist that it yield a particular herbal
scent, there are alternatives to adding essential oil during the candle making process. You can simply
place 3-4 drops of essential oil around the wick of a candle that has just been lit. Or, you can
massage a few drops of essential oil down the length of a candle and then light it. You could even
scent the wick itself. These methods work well on small candles intended to burn in one sitting.
Otherwise, dust and/or lint can settle on the candle, making its future use less appealing.

If youve ever studied aromatherapy, then you know that certain scents can affect a persons mood,
health, and sense of well being. In fact, Shimizu, one of the largest construction companies in Japan,
provides an Aroma Generation System to its clients with climate controlling devices. Certain
aromas are introduced into the atmosphere to facilitate healing in hospitals, to increase efficiency in
the workplace, or to create a relaxing atmosphere for consumers. This concept, termed Perfume
Dynamics, is being analyzed by many American corporations and institutions for its potential
applications.

If youve had a particularly trying day, or just feel the pressures of life cramping your jovial
disposition, its nice to be able to light a scented candle designed to combat depression and fatigue!
The following chart offers suggestions using different herbal essential oils to achieve specific results:

Insomnia valerian,chamomile,
marjoram, sandalwood,
clary-sage
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Stimulating bergamot, lemon, cypress,


coriander, ginger,
rosemary, cardamom

Relaxing valerian, vetiver, ylangylang, rose, patchouli,


neroli, lavender, geranium,
chamomile
Indigestion/
Heartburn angelica, cardamon, clove,
dill, fennel, lemon, nutmeg, oregano, spearmint
Colds & Flu angelica, aniseed, bay,
benzoin, bergamot,
camphor, cardamom,
cinnamon, eucalyptus,
frankincense, marjoram,
oregano, rosemary, sage
Bug Deterrents citronella, lemongrass,
basil, thyme, cinnamon,
lavender
Romance rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang,
vanilla, jasmine, patchouli,
tonka bean, geranium

~ Inlaying and Waxing Foliage ~

By the 1840s, paraffin was found in quantity, produced as a by-product of the petroleum industry.
Ladies of the era enjoyed preserving flowers and fragrant herbs with a fine coating of paraffin,
turning them into decorations for the home. Many Victorian bouquets and ornaments contained an
abundance of waxed flowers. White flowers were especially popular, and the semi-opaque wax
gave them a pearly-white appearance. Fresh flowers of other color, often pale to a subtle hue of the
original, or may even change color entirely. Dried flowers, which have already changed color with
dehydration, will be permanently preserved when waxed. This is a case for free experimentation, to
get a feel for the effects you like best.

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Generally, flowers and herbs with multi-petal heads, or those with hollow stems, do not turn out well
when treated with wax. Roses however, even in full bloom, fare surprising well, as do sweet peas,
orange blossoms, and chamomile, among the flowering plants. Large leaves, ivy, and berry clusters
(such as hawthorn) are also suitable for waxing.

Fresh flowers (stem intact) can be dipped in liquid wax when it has reached 130F. The flower head
is dipped in the hot wax until completely covered. Very carefully, and with a toothpick or tweezers,
separate and reposition the petals if necessary. After 15-20 minutes, the stem, and leaves, may be
coated by using a spatula or spoon. You may have to reheat the wax if a skin has formed over the
top. The finished flowers should be allowed to dry upright for several hours undisturbed, preferably
overnight. You can set the flowers to stand in bottles (use a separate bottle for each flower) or
clamped with clothespins that have been set in clay so that they stand.

Dont be discouraged if you have to throw several flowers away because they just didnt turn out
well. Likewise, if your flowers look limp after complete drying, you can cut the stems short, and redip the flowers in warm wax.

Dried flowers, even those dried in silicone (such as day lilies), can be waxed as soon as they are
removed from the drying medium. The stems are removed, and the flower heads are hand held and
painted with wax using a small brush. Dont worry that youll be burned - at 130 F the wax isnt hot
enough to burn your skin. Paint the face of the flower heads first. Wait a moment until the wax
becomes cloudy, then set the flower down on wax paper to dry. Then, after allowing for a 15minute drying, turn the flower heads over and paint the other side. Once again, lay the flower on
newspaper to dry, this time face down. If a petal should split or tear during this process, it can be
repositioned and repaired with warm wax and a brush.

Once the waxed dried flowers are completely dry, they can be used for numerous craft projects.
They can be arranged on wreaths, matted and framed, used in centerpiece decorations, or even
glued to the base of a candle for an added personal touch.

Its possible to add raw herbal material to your molded candles to create a truly beautiful accent,
although it requires a steady hand. Youll need to sacrifice a pair of tweezers for this purpose. Your
herbal material may be fresh or dried, depending on the characteristics of the plant to be used. Use
only small snips of the herbs foliage, and small sprays of flowers for inlaying, and keep them near the
base of the candle. Obviously, the herbs will be most visible if added to a non-dyed candle.
Incidentally, colored tissue paper, or aluminum foil, torn into small bits, or even small pearly beads,
can also be added to a molded candle.

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When the wax is ready to pour, add 1-2 inches of liquid wax into your well prepared mold.
Working quickly, pick up the flowers/herbs with tweezers and place in the wax toward the sides of
the mold, but not touching the outer surface. You must be quick in placing and letting go with the
tweezers, or the plant material will be difficult to release. Also, be sure to keep the plant material
away from the wick. When the herbs are in place, slowly finish pouring and filling the mold, and
allow to harden as usual.

For a different effect, you can also adhere dried flowers or leaves to the outside of a candle (near
the base) with drops of melted wax, or by giving the finished candle a dip in melted wax, and
pressing the plant material to the sides. If you are making a candle as an adornment never to be
burned, you can really get creative in arranging layers of sprays of flowers and herbs along the length
of the candle.

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Table des Matires


Part I: Making Herbal Incense

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