4/7/2015

EXIM

SAMPLING PROCESS
AT AN EXPORT HOUSE

SUBMITTED BY Mayura Nile

SUBMITTED BY Mayura Nile

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NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY MUMBAI

Introduction
The term export is derived from the conceptual meaning as to ship the
goods and services out of the port of a country. The seller of such goods
and services is referred to as an "exporter" who is based in the country of
export whereas the overseas based buyer is referred to as an "importer".
In International Trade, "exports" refers to selling goods and services
produced in home country to other markets. Any good or commodity,
transported from one country to another country in a legitimate fashion,
typically for use in trade. Export goods or services are provided to a
foreign consumers by domestic producers. Export of commercial
quantities of goods normally requires involvement of the customs
authorities in both the country of export and the country of import. The
advent of small trades over the internet such as through Amazon and eBay has largely bypassed the involvement of Customs in many countries
because of the low individual values of these trades. Nonetheless, these
small exports are still subject to legal restrictions applied by the country of
export. An export's counterpart is an import.
Sampling is one of the main processes in garment manufacturing and it
plays vital role in attracting buyers and confirming the order, as the
buyers generally places the order once satisfied with the quality and
responsiveness of the sampling. It is the most crucial stage of fashion
merchandising. Sampling department makes samples on the basis of the
specification and requirement by the buyer. Sampling in merchandising
may be defined as "The concept, perception and ideas of fashion designer
developed into product samples, in systematic stages of product
development, with technical and quality clarity in a development." Though
sampling is a difficult and time bound process, it will help the exporter to
get the order from the buyer. Before placing any order to the factory, the
buyer wants to know whether the factory is capable of producing the
styles with the desired quality levels or not. The samples decide the ability
of exporters to deal with any given style of garment. The buyer accesses
the capability of exporter only with the help of Samples. If the samples are
of good quality naturally the buyers will be willing to place the order to
factory. Sampling also work as a bridge between the productions and
marketing department, hence it has the influence of both marketing as
well as production department. So it is essential that the samples should
be innovative and should be manufactured with optimum quality.

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY MUMBAI

Different Types of
Sampling
Sampling process varies from buyer to buyer, and type of style as well,
but in industry there is particular order of sampling is followed, the stages
and purpose of sample may be same but terminology used may be
different and it totally depend upon buyer. The typical samples namely
described as:
1. Design development
2. Proto sample
3. Fit sample
4. Ad or photo shoot sample
5. Sales man sample
6. Pre- production sample
7. GPT sample
8. Size set sample
9. TOP sample
10. Wash sample
11. Shipment sample

These samples are sent to the buyer one after another for approval from
the buyer and to proceed further. Apart from these usual steps,
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sometimes the buyer suggests some changes in the prepared sample, and
then incorporating those suggestions makes a counter sample and in it is
sent to the buyer for approval. The sampling department helps the
merchandising department for finding out fabric consumption per unit
garment and thereby helps in the costing of garment.

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY MUMBAI

Sampling in Brief
1. Design development:

This is the first sample which is made for any style by most of the
buyer.
Design development is either done by buyer or factory
The main purpose is to take the decision to proceed with the same
line or not.

2. Proto sample:

Prototype sample is developed at very initial stage and normally

order is confirmed to the factory based on proto sample only.
Normally, buyer send prototype sample request to 2-3 factories.

The factory which submits the good quality and optimum price will
get confirmation from buyer.

Prototype sample are normally prepared in similar fabric if actual

fabric is not available.

As proto sample is given first time to the factory to buyer, so to

develop the prototype sample buyer need to provide necessary
information along with the proto request.

Generally prototype request is responded within the 7-10 days by

merchandiser.

Factory need to submit at least 4 prototype samples.

If buyer does not approve the proto sample, factory needs to submit
the 2nd proto sample to get approval.

Once prototype get approved buyer asks to start working on fit

sample.

3. Fit sample

Fit sample is made and send to conform the fit of the garment on
live models or on dummy and for approval of construction details.
At this stage of sampling, buyer makes sure that factory
understands thoroughly the construction and quality details and
standards, the sample sent mostly in medium and large sizes
mentioned by the buyer.

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY MUMBAI

4. Ad or photo shoot sample:

In order to promote the new style in the market normally buyer asks
for AD sample for photo shoot.
Buyer uses this photo for marketing purpose either on catalogue or
various media like, print, TV or websites to see the response of the
consumer.
This sample mainly sends in medium to large or sizes specified by
buyer.

5. Sales man / Marketing /Showroom sample:

The main purpose of salesman sample is to collect the order from

the retailers.
In Sales man sample actual accessory, actual fabric is used or
sample yardage need to be used.

This sample also very important stage of sampling as the sales of

buyer depends upon this sample presentation, look, feel of fabric is
important.

The quality of the sample should be up to the mark of the buyer;

hence merchandiser should aware and make sure that product
development team is well aware about the sample quality
parameters.

The cost of sample production is given by buyer or sometimes buyer

may give 150% of FOB.

6. Size set sample:

The main purpose of size set sample is to check the factory's

capability to make the sample in all sizes.
The size set sample should be made in the actual fabric and trims.

The samples can be made in the sampling room or actual production

floor, as required by the buyer.

Bulk cutting of fabric for production should start only after size-set
sample get approved.

Normally, 1-2 samples (or quantity specified by buyer) of each size

need to send to buyer.

If sizes are more in number then buyer may ask to skip some sizes,
called jump size set sample.

7. GPT sample (Garment Performance Test):

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY MUMBAI

The main purpose of GPT is to perform the physical and chemical

testing on garment to ensure the performance of the garment.
The tests done on garments are: Shrinkage, Color Fastness, Seam
performance etc.

Garments for GPT sample can be done along with Size Set sample.

Normally, GPT Sample is sent to 3rd party inspection and results are
sent to both factory as well as buyer.

If same style is having 3-4 different colors then only one color
sample is tested completely and other colors samples are tested
only with color way test i.e. only color fastness tests are conducted.

8. Pre- production sample: (PP sample)

PP sample is considered to be a contract between the buyer and the

factory.
It has to be made in original fabric and trims

Washing, embroidery and printing should match to actuals.

PP Sample is the standard for production and bulk production

garments should be identical to PP sample.

The factory can start the production of bulk garment only after the
approval of preproduction sample.

PP sample sends in only one size 1-2 samples or specified by buyer.

9. Wash sample:

Wash sample is made and submitted to buyer for assessment of feel

and handle of fabric after washing of Denim or shirt washing
program, hence either at size set stage or PP stage washing sample
is sent to buyer for approval and carry forward of washing program.
If sample is not approved or approved with comments, factory
needs to submit 2nd sample to get approval.
After feel assessment buyer may suggest the changes in washing
program.

10. TOP sample (Top of Production):

The top of production is sent to the buyer as soon initial pieces are
come out of sewing line with suggestion of QA department.
In TOP sample Buyer tries to evaluate the actual manufacturing of
the style.
Buyer check whether bulk production is as per submitted sample or
not.
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TOP sample also checked by the buyer for the packaging.

11. Shipment sample:

Few buyers may ask for the shipment samples which factory needs
to pull form the actual shipment and sent to buyer.
The main purpose of this sample is to assure buyer about the actual
shipment dispatch.

People involved in sampling:

Several people and departments are involved in sampling process. They
are: merchandising department, sampling/ product development team,
trim and fabric store, pattern making department, quality assurance
team, dispatch department and etc.
Assessment of sample:
Buyer assesses the sample and gives the feed back within 5 - 7 days to
factory with respect to sample. Feedback from the buyer is 3 types i.e.
accepted, rejected, and accepted with comments. The rejection of sample
may be due to following reasons: There could be one or more reasons for
the sample rejection from buyer, these are: sample made out of
tolerance, incorrect construction, fabric quality may not up to mark,
incorrect packaging, incorrect size submission, frequent change in style
and more.

The Role of
Merchandiser in an
Export House
In preparing sample the merchandiser places an optimal and proactive role. The merchandiser is a person who has to follow all the
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1.
2.
3.
4.
5.

activities which filled up sight from the manufacturing unit.

Merchandiser should understand the specifications and requirement
of the buyer and produce samples by considering:
Communication
Optimizing situation
Punctuality in giving details and samples to the buyers
Efficient follow up
Excellent negotiation skills

Following are the roles and duties of a

merchandiser.

Product Development
A merchandiser can have both buyer and seller roles. As a buyer for
materials needed in production, his duties might include sourcing vendors,
securing samples and communicating between the export house and
suppliers. In the seller role, the merchandiser helps buyers with
developing merchandise specifications for export house orders.
Export house duties can include developing samples and presentation
portfolios used to secure prospective buyers. An educational background
in design may be sought for an export merchandiser whose primary duty
is to assist clients with product development. In the garment industry, for
instance, the merchandiser may help a client develop custom
specifications for garment designs, including fabric and colour selections.
Production Coordinator
The export house merchandiser's role may also include coordinating
at every stage of the manufacturing and production processes. This
entails the general flow of work and materials within and among
departments. The merchandiser might participate in developing
production and shipment schedules and milestones. And she might
coordinate meetings among department supervisors, designers and sales
teams to monitor the progress and completion dates for projects.
Other Duties
An export merchandiser might analyze past buying trends, sales
records, pricing and merchandise quality to determine value and yield.
Duties might also include overseeing the assemblage, addressing,
stamping and arranging for transportation to export markets. He might
also be expected to ensure that export products comply with the quality
control and export specification standards required by national regulators.

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY MUMBAI

Conclusion
Sampling is the heart of any export order processing. The future of any
style purely depends on buyer and factory which are adding value to the
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samples. So it is very important to understand the sample development

process to control quality and costs in the initial stage or in the sampling
development. Merchandiser plays the central role in sampling process as,
the only person between the buyer and factory who understands the
buyer specification, technical details and time line of sampling. The
process of sampling is about the eventual satisfaction of specific needs. It
is about products the company can make or out-source profitably for
which there is a market demand. Sampling is the best way to place an
order. The purpose of sampling is not only to get bulk order and also it
gives some additional benefits to the exporters. The use of technology,
computer based designing, as well as innovation and creativity are
important tools in driving apparel sampling.

Reference
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NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY MUMBAI

 http://www.eximguru.com/
http://apparel.indiamart.com/
http://www.india-exports.com/apparel.html
http://apparel.indiamart.com/lib/garments/indian07251998.ht
ml
http://www.cygnusindia.com/Industry%20InsightApparel
%20Retailing%20n%20India-Executive%20Summary%20&
%20TOC-March%202004_.pdf

http://hotdocs.usitc.gov/docs/pubs/research_working_papers/PU
B3401.PDF
http://www.textiletoday.com.bd/magazine/

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