Word Vietnam February 2015 PDF

NH XUT BN LAO NG
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CHUYN DU LCH, M THC

VIETNAM EDITION / TP 2 2015
FEBRUARY 2015
NOT FOR SALE
contents
wordvietnam.com
FEBRUARY 2015
056
104
082
THE TALK
092 / The Art of Ao Dai
INSIDER
010 / Goats Do Roam
Celebrating the Year of the Yang
047 / The Cartoonist
Tet dos and donts
056 / Beer
BRIEFINGS
012 / A Chat with Snow White
Valentines tips from a charmed life
014 / Vietnam Festival Calendar

2015
This months cover story had us

breaking New Years resolutions like
what
078 / Making the Metro a

Success
Our 10-step plan for subway readiness
082 / The Future of Downtown

Saigon
020 / Je Suis Charlie
A memorial is held in Hanoi
014
EAT & DRINK
But Chi teaches passion
050 / The Idiots Guide to Tet
011 / The Big Five
Events to look out for this month
What it says on the tin
A Vietnamese tradition evolves
The design competition for the heart of

Saigon
086 / The Businessmen of Beer
Industry professionals and thier take on

the world of beer
094 / Burger Wars
A medium-rare war on the tables of

Hanoi
100 / Mystery Diner Hanoi
Au Lac Do Brazil is still going strong

eight years on
102 / Street Snacker Hanoi
On the menu: Bun Thang
104 / Mystery Diner HCMC
Vesper hits rare highs
106 / Street Snacker HCMC
On the menu: Street Sushi
FASHION
108 / Brand Ambassadors
These PGs are PG-13
Au Lac Do Brazil II Hanoi

6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh Dist
Tel:
T
el: (04) 3845 5224 - Fax: (04) 3747 4330
pr_hanoi@aulacdobrazil.com
Au Lac Do Brazil I HC M C
238 P asteur
asteur, Dist. 3
Tel:
T
el: (08) 3820 71 57 - Fax: (08) 3820 7682
pr@aulacdobrazil.com
contents
114
124
184
HCMC
TRAVEL
114 / Cruising
The bell drops in international waters
120 / A Day in Penang
124 / In Search of the Super Cave
Dak Nong has more holes than a block of

Swiss cheese
036 / To-Do List

042 / Overscene
132 / Hanoi City Guide
134 / Coffee Cup
136 / Recalling Hanoi
138 / Top Eats
141 / Food Promos
4 | Word February 2015 | wordvietnam.com
034 / Overscene
151 / HCMC City Guide
New Years Day in Georgetown
HANOI
026 / To-Do List
160 / Coffee Cup

162 / Top Eats
COLUMNS
142 / The Alchemist
146 / The Therapist
148 / Medical Buff

150 / Book Buff
154 / Business Buff
156 / Job Search
158 / Body and Temple
164 / The Empty Wok

166 / Student Eye
172 / A World of Good
180 / Tieng Viet
FINAL SAY
184 / The Inside Story of the
Guerrilla War
Chapter 5 of Wilfred Burchetts classic

account
190 / Falling Off the Wagon
A month of sobriety can be harder than it

sounds
192 / The Last Call
Alex Violette is crafting Vietnams beer

future
192
wordvietnam.com | February 2015 Word | 5
CONTRIBUTORS
This month we asked Word contributors, When

was the last time you 100-percented a beer?
The editorial and design of WORD is carried out by Duong Huynh Advertising JSC
ED WEINBERG
Deputy Editor
I was at a countryside wedding near
Buon Ma Thuot a couple weeks ago,
and I forgot that I should probably
never drink with my own table, as emissaries
from other tables are much harder to turn down. I
drank way too much. Conversation was limited to
How many beers can you drink?"
JON ASPIN
Staff Writer
Not long ago in The Tavern after my
cricket team (the UCC) pulled off
a dramatic-escape-from-defeat last
ball draw against the SACC in the T20
league here. We didnt even win, but I think we all
pulled off a few 100-percenters that afternoon. Its
hard to say how many. I gave a speech.
SIMON STANLEY
Contributing Writer
It was a ski trip to France. Bad
weather. A day stuck in a bar with
a bunch of guys. A drinking game
of some kind. The staff threw me out
into the snow to sober up. I must have learnt my
lesson as that was over 10 years ago.
OWEN SALISBURY
Contributing Writer
Before pouring beers for the tasting
article, I bought one for myself and
slammed it in the back of the Circle
K, just to get that lovely toothpastesans-mint aftertaste only the best canned lagers
offer.
NICK ROSS
Chief Editor
The last time I went to a wedding. It
was with the brother of the bride.
HUYEN TRAN
Contributing Writer
My last time was when my hubby
and I travelled to Tam Dao and we
walked around at night. That was
also my first time 100-percenting a
beer, and I ended up with a terrible headache
the next morning. But I do remember I sang
really loud the whole way back to the hotel that
night!
EDITORIAL
NICK ROSS
Chief Editor
editor@wordvietnam.com
ED WEINBERG
Deputy Editor
ed@wordvietnam.com
MADS MONSEN
Creative Director
mads@wordvietnam.com
HOA LE
Staff Editor
hoale@wordvietnam.com
KYLE PHANROY
Photo Editor
kyle@wordvietnam.com
DAVID MANN
Staff Editor
david.mann@wordvietnam.com
FRANCIS XAVIER
Staff Reporter
francis.xavier@wordvietnam.com
DAVID HARRIS
Staff Photographer
david@wordvietnam.com
MARK ALLAN
Website & Graphic Designer
mark@wordvietnam.com
NGUYEN LOC
Layout Designer
loc@wordvietnam.com
VU HA KIM VY
Marketing
vy@wordvietnam.com
JON ASPIN
Staff Writer
jon@wordvietnam.com
ADMINISTRATION
BAO ROSS
General Director
bao@wordvietnam.com
TRANG LE
Chief Accountant
trang@wordvietnam.com
ADVERTISING
BAO ROSS
General Director
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Sales Executive
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Area Sales Manager Hanoi
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from Dak Nong, Minnie from El Gaucho, Curtis King, Ian Wills and Owen Salisbury
JULIE VOLA
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authorisation of the
owners.
Staff Photographer
Its for the best that I dont really
remember that night.
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In xong v np lu chiu Qy 1 nm 2015.
The prelude
on the beer.
Over the last two
years, beer clubs have
stormed their way
around Hanoi and
Saigon, providing
a new upmarket,
nightclub-like beer
drinking experience
that previously didnt
exist.
With the beer clubs
has come a previously
untapped interest
in draft beer. In the
past, the only people
drinking the likes of
draft Tiger, Carlsberg
or San Miguel were
expats. Now the local
market is on board.
And with it finally
yes finally, for anyone
who likes their lager
or ale to come out of a
tap is the arrival of

the big international
beers.
Peroni came on tap
last month in Saigon,
as did that Belgian
brew of distinction,
Hoegaarden. Weve
already got Red Rock,
Gau Den, Saigon
Special, Sapporo.
Budvar and Heineken,
and later this year
expect Stella Artois,
Becks and possibly
even Budweiser.
In one sense this
means nothing beer
after all is just beer. It
makes you merry, it
makes you drunk. Its
great for socialising.
But having spent
years going to bars
in Singapore, Kuala
Lumpur and Bangkok,

and looking on in envy
at all the beers they
have on tap, now there
is a real sense of pride
that Vietnam is finally
joining the big boy
beer club.
It will take time
for Vietnam to have a
draft beer selection to
rival that in Europe,
Australia or North
America. And it
depends entirely on
market growth and
profitability. But the
seeds of having an
international beer
drinking culture are
here.
Now all we need
is draft Guinness.
Nick Ross, Chief
Editor
CHUYN DU LCH, M THC

VIETNAM EDITION / TP 2 2015
FEBRUARY 2015
NOT FOR SALE
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et inspires
many images.
The red
envelopes
full of lucky money;
the fruit on the altar;
burning money in
metal buckets; endless
quantities of food;
family members
gathering together;
people playing cards;
and beer, lots of beer.
When we received
the go-ahead to run
a cover story on beer,
we felt the timing was
perfect. Like Christmas
and New Year in the
west, Tet is a time not
just for family, but for
making merry.
But there was more
to choosing this month
as the month to bring
NH XUT BN LAO NG
THIS MONTH'S COVER

Cover by DH Advertising
Photo by Francis Xavier
Location: El Gaucho
HAVE YOUR SAY

DO YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS? THEN LET US KNOW ON FACEBOOK FACEBOOK.COM/WORD.VIETNAM OR VIA TWITTER, @WORDVIETNAM.
NO MATTER HOW POSITIVE OR NEGATIVE YOUR THOUGHTS, WE LOOK FORWARD TO HEARING FROM YOU.
inbox
Some Appreciation
DO YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO AIR? IF SO, REACH OUT AND TOUCH US
AT EDITOR@WORDVIETNAM.COM WERE AT YOUR FINGERTIPS.
insider
ARTS
Chuc mung nam moi to

the whole staff at Word
Vietnam!
Festival Season
in Vietnam
From a 40-DJ festival in a national park to a week of topflight indie acts, to Vietnams first comic con,
festival chronicler Ed Weinberg has seen
the future of the festival in Vietnam,
and it is good. Photos by Francis Xavier
and Ed Weinberg
Thank you for the great

work youre doing
to highlight all that
Vietnam has to offer!
Looking forward to
seeing the next issue.
RC
Cracking issue last
month. A big, meaty
read. Not one bad
article. Well done! RR
Never knew that
shopping malls would
make such interesting
reading (Mallrats,
January 2015). But
yes, its fascinating to
see how Vietnam has
and hasnt adapted to
western consumerism.
AJ
NATIONAL
estivals are the paradise of those

who live for the weekend. I tried
reading through a mass of websearch numbers about them US$4
billion spent on EDM shows worldwide,
circa 2012; some HuffPo article saying 78
percent of Millenials would rather spend
their money on experiences over things
then I put the computer away. It was
time to head up to Hanoi for Quest.
Quest Festival
Nov. 28 30
It was a quest getting to Quest. We started
out too late, and were enjoying the
countryside journey too much to speed
through. We finished our beers at a roadside
com place as twilight settled, and there were
other complicating factors when we hit the
slick of highway gravel at 50km/h.
We had planned on sleeping both nights
in the lakeside tents Quest had clustered in
one of those team-building campgrounds,
right outside of Ba Vi National Park. Instead
we passed the Friday 10km away, in a
small town next to a military hospital. My
passenger Duhwee was waiting for the one
doctor on shift to suture the gash below
his right knee, while I was holding my raw
right arm away from my cream-coloured
T-shirt, red-coloured antiseptic dripping on
the waiting room floor and eventually my
hotel sheets.
When we finally rattled in the next
morning it was like a DIY dreamland.
The grounds were strewn with climbable,
tire-constructed geodesic domes; fairy-tale
wooden bridges and more solidly built
sundecks; three music areas in various
stages of improvisation; psychedelic, twodimensional owls; mountains towering
over everything. The theme was Cosmic
Animals a perfect match for the
experienced festival-goers fancy dress
wardrobe. People swam and drank, waiting
for sunset.
But before the all-night party, before
Alton Millers headlining set of Detroit
underground house, before the mellow
Sunday afternoon scene of hula-hoops, Indian
summer and subaudible bass there was a
sublime moment. In the smallest dance area,
1990s-era hip-hop bounced off a phalanx of
teepees. People danced in between, trailing
feathers and other festival tat. The sun
crept towards the tips of the mountains and
people walked slowly by the waters edge,
contemplating the moment at hand.
Saigon International Music Week

Nov. 26 Dec. 4
Getting back to Saigon on Dec. 4, I dropped
my bags off at home, and headed down
to the last show of Loud Minoritys
inaugural Saigon International Music Week
a confluence of the touring schedules of
three well-established indie bands, with a
Vietnamese showcase thrown in for good
measure.
84 | Word January 2015 | wordvietnam.com
wordvietnam.com | January 2015 Word | 85
An Apology
Word made an error in publishing a
comment of Damian Kilroys (Festival
Season in Vietnam, January 2015) regarding
sponsorship. It was said in a supportive
tone, which wasnt captured by the writing.
Apologies to all inconvenienced by this.
Not So Fast
The following Facebook
post was in response to
an article published on
wordvietnam.com Same
Sex Marriage Now Legal
in Vietnam:
For anyone Stateside
(or anywhere beyond
Vietnam) who will
surely see some news
about Vietnams
so-called lift of the gay

marriage ban:
The only notable
difference that this
has made is making it
illegal to fine people for
holding gay wedding
ceremonies. No changes
have been made in legal
protections, and no
difference to last year s
changes in cohabitation
laws that actually HURT
gay couples living
together.
This is SORT of
promising but at
its core, this is still
a charm offensive,
and before we start
celebrating Vietnam
taking a lead in Asias
gay rights fight, we

need to remember to
push for LASTING
and SIGNIFICANT
protections (that might
actually make it feasible
for gay couples to, you
know... have families
and any kind of legal
standing for their
relationship). KH
the talk
THE TALK
TALK LEAD
Goats Do Roam
And so, apparently, do sheep
tarting from Feb. 19 is the Year of

the Goat. At least it is in Vietnam.
But as I search trustworthy Google
for information on what 2015 will
have in store, I discover that apparently
its also the Year of the Sheep. Or possibly
even the Year of the Ram. Although in
Vietnam, its goats 24/24.
I dont get it. Sheep and goats are different
animals, right? Well, their Latin names are
certainly different sheep are ovis aries
while domesticated goats are very definitely
capra aegagrus hircus. And while sheep have
the pleasure of an entry into the western
astrological system as the star sign Aries, goats
just dont quite figure. But they do in Vietnam.
So what year exactly are we heading into?
I decide to search for some Wikipedia
truths yes, we trust in our friend
Wikipedia. According to them we are
entering the Year of the Goat. Sorry guys,
rams and sheep are not on the agenda.
I read on.
In both Vietnamese and Chinese
astrology, there are five elements fire,
earth, metal, water and wood. This year
goats are wooden. Which means that any
child born in 2015 will love peace and be
helpful and trusting. Yet, says our online
guru, they will also be clinging, and by
nature resistant to change.
But this is not the answer Im looking for.
What I really want to know is what Vietnams
Year of the Goat has in store. Will these
depressing times finally become a little less
depressing? And why the sheep and the rams?
Beyond Wikipedia
According to the website gotohoroscope.com,
another arbiter of truth with a high ranking
on Google, this year is going to be one of
the most important years in years. Says the
digital sage:
Many astrologists conclude from the
conditions of 2015 that the processes that have
been unfolding and spreading chaos for the past
few years are finally wrapping up; both political
and economic situations in the world are starting
to stabilise.
Okay, this is good. So, Ukraine, IS,
Palestine, Israel, ebola, recessions and the
general madness gripping the world right
now are all going to start finding some
conclusions. I can live with that. Continues
the SEO favourite: There have never been
this many signs and favourable planetary

aspects confirming the positive nature of the
upcoming changes we simply cant ignore
these signs.
The Local Angle

I decide to get a Vietnamese take on all this
and my first port of call is viethoroscope.com.
People born under the goat sign, it tells us,
are artistic and blessed with an immense
talent for creative endeavours. Goats are
also known for their levelheadedness and
their ability to be even-tempered. They
are also not easily stressed, too. Not even a
mention of sheep.
After entering more search phrases I
finally get some success when I stumble
on cjvlang.com. According to this website,
the reason for the confusion is the Chinese
word yng. Meaning a ruminant mammal,
generally with horns on its head, there

are many types of yng including shnyng
(goat), minyng (sheep) and lngyng
(gazelle).
In other words, goats, sheep and antelopes
are all different types of yng. This is
unequivocally the Year of the Yng. Its a
linguistic issue.
Says the website: The Japanese, Koreans
and Vietnamese have all borrowed the
Chinese zodiac and use it to name the years.
What is more, both Japanese and Vietnamese
have separate words for sheep and goats, which
means that they must make a choice: Is the
zodiac animal a sheep or a goat?
Probably because Vietnam doesnt have
sheep, a clear choice has been made. This
year is unequivocally the Year of the Goat.
Lets just hope its a good one. Nick
Ross
the big five
06&07
18
FEB.
Mui Ne
THE WINDSURFING CHAMPIONSHIPS
Vietnams best windsurfers will once

again descend on Mui Ne Bay for the 16th
Vietnam Fun Cup, two days of downwind
slalom racing hosted by Jibes Beach Club.
For the two-day race, 30 pro and amateur
competitors from all over the world will
congregate, making this spectator-friendly
windsurfing display one of the best youll
07
13
SATURDAY
HCMC
see in Southeast Asia. On top of this,

proceeds go to the Ham Tan Orphanage and
School for Blind and Disabled Children.
The competition takes place on the beach
behind Jibes, which is at 84 Nguyen Dinh
Chieu, Mui Ne, Binh Thuan. For more info on
the 16th Vietnam Fun Cup, write to office@
ahivietnam.com
40 YEARS OF FRIENDSHIP...
AND KIWIS
As the Vietnamese know, one of

the best ways to explore another
culture is to eat and drink it. And New
Zealand, in honour of its 40th year of
diplomatic relations with Vietnam, is
putting on its annual wine and food
festival, billed as a culinary journey
through New Zealand. It will be held in
the cozy District 7 confines of RMIT, with
a special musical performance by Kiwi
singer-songwriter Boh Runga. All profits go
to the Ba Chieu Girls Home.
The Wine & Food New Zealand Festival
happens from 4pm to 10pm on the RMIT lawn,
702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, HCMC. Tickets are
VND1.6 million. For more info, go to facebook.
com/wineandfoodnewzealandhcmc
WEDNESDAY
Hanoi
TET COUNTDOWN PARTY
Every year there are numerous Tet

countdown parties, but few can
rival the one that will be staged
on Wednesday Feb. 18 at the highest bar in
Vietnam, Top of Hanoi.
Towering 65 stories above ground level
with panoramic city views to boot, the
venue is putting on a night of live music,
dragon dancing, tunes spun by DJ Julz
and a general, all-round feel good party
atmosphere. Costing VND700,000 per person
(only 400 tickets available), the festivities
kick off at 9pm and entrance includes one
drink and two snacks.
For more info click on facebook.com/
topofhanoi. Top of Hanoi is way up high in the
Lotte Center, Dao Tan, Cong Vi, Ba Dinh, Hanoi
19
THURSDAY
All of Vietnam
FRIDAY
HCMC
JOHN MORALES IS BACK!
After Decembers blowout gig

alongside Alton Miller, John
Morales was so excited by
Saigon that he wanted to return as soon
as possible. He got his wish, and our city
has another chance to witness a legend
of nightclub culture work his magic.
John Morales is at The Observatory, 5
Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC. Free before
midnight, VND100,000 after
TET
Does it need a mention? Well, we

think it does. Not only is Tet the
biggest event of the month, its the
biggest event of the year.
With Vietnam officially closed for business
from Sunday Feb. 15 to Sunday Feb. 22,
dont expect much to happen in this week of
spending time with family, preparing for the
New Year, overeating and overdrinking. But
do expect yourself to enjoy it. Few countries
take a week off from everything.
From everyone at Word, An Khang Thinh
Vuong. Wishing you all health and prosperity
for the year ahead.
briefings
VALENTINES DAY SPECIAL
HCMC
A Chat with
Snow White
Usually seen as a paragon of virtue, Word went digging for

Valentines advice when we caught up with the enigmatic lead
in the Saigon Players production, Snow White and the Seven
Nguyens. We talked about love, life and why shes back in town
Word: Hello Snow White, its a pleasure to
meet you.
SW: Yes it is, thank you humble woodsman.
Word: Err, ok. Snow White, youve posted
some fairly racy shots on your Instagram
account lately. Are you about to go all
Miley Cyrus on us?
SW: What?! What is Instagram?
You must be thinking of someone
else.
Word: Are you saying @
snowyfromfaraway is a fake
account?
SW: (blushing) Listen, I
am an innocent, natureloving princess. Miley
and I are friends, but
we have a very different
sense of fashion.
Word: Ok, but what about
your very public twitter
spat with Sleeping Beauty?
Was that fake too?
SW: Ah, Sleeping Beauty has
always been jealous of me, I cant
seem to appease her envy. I guess I
trump her on both of her strengths, but
youve heard what the magic mirror says.
Word: Yes, you are the fairest of them all, but you
must be like 200 years old whats your secret?
SW: How impolite! I couldnt possibly reveal
my true age. If anything, I get more youthful
and more beautiful with each passing year.
Lucky me!
Word: Lets move on. Its Valentines Day this
month. Are you a one fairytale princess, one
prince kinda girl, or did you sleep in every one
of the dwarves beds for a reason?
SW: Tee hee, how silly of you! I am most
certainly a one princess, one prince kind of girl.
Have you seen Prince Charming? He is the best

looking, most charming, most brave and most
dashing man in the whole wide world!
Word: If you say so. Im sure our readers
would love to know what you two get up to on
Valentines?
SW: Well, usually the huntsman keeps me
company while I wait for Prince Charming,
but in the Faraway Kingdom every day is
Valentines Day!
Word: Oh dear, what an awkward menage-atrois. Is that why youre back playing with a
bunch of Vietnamese guys hearts again? The
Nguyen brothers?
SW: The Nguyen family are my friends, they
took me in when I had no idea where I was.
Somehow I just ended up back here in Vietnam!
Word: Really? Had you been sleeping in the
mushroom field? Or were you just at Lush this
whole time?
SW: I have never been to Lush. Is it a beautiful
part of the forest?
Word: No. How about some advice for the
wannabe Prince Charmings out there. How can
they find a fairytale princess like you?
SW: They should be devilishly handsome, well
mannered and well groomed. A true prince
should always be prepared to save the day in
the most charming way possible so it helps if
they have a nice big sword!
Word: Thank you Snow White, I think were
going to leave it at that.
SW: Thank you humble woodsman, I look
forward to seeing you at my show.
You can see Snow White and the Seven Nguyens
back by popular demand at The Vista Walk,
P2 level, 628C Xa Lo Ha Noi, Q2, HCMC on
Saturday Feb. 7. There are two performances
one at 3pm and the second at 5.30pm. Tickets
cost VND200,000. For more information email:
saigonplayers@gmail.com
briefings
BRIEFINGS
NATIONAL
Love Market
A locally made documentary debunks the myths

about Vietnams love markets
nce upon a time, deep in the hills

of northern Vietnam, an ethnic
Giay girl and a Nung boy fell in
love. But the young girl was so
beautiful that her family would not let her
marry into a different tribe and fighting
soon broke out between the two families.
Broken hearted, the lovers parted, secretly
agreeing to meet every year at the market
in the remote town of Khau Vai. For one
day, once a year, for their entire lives, they
had a brief moment in which to share their
love.
Fast forward a century or so and Khau
Vai is now the site an annual Love Market.
In honour of this romantic story, the yearly
market is a time when young men and
women come to sing, dance, shop, and
(hopefully) meet the love of their life.
But is this tale of forbidden love an ancient
myth stemming from the mountains or a
modern day fallacy created to attract tourists
and draw attention to this remote pocket
of the country? In his new documentary,
Vibrant Highland, Commercial Love, Hanoibased filmmaker Matt Dworzanczyk goes in
search of a real life couple that fell in love at
the Love Market.
Its a story of wild and exotic love.
Dworzanczyk explains. Its a story of tribal
kings and the opium trade. Its a story of
kidnapping and loss. Its a story of sexual
discovery, of spirits and magic. Its a story of
government control versus the fascinating
and harrowing reality of the people.
Myth and Reality

The film opens with sweeping shots of
a beautiful, desolate landscape in the
remote hills of Ha Giang. Filmed in a
narrative style, Matt leads the audience
into the depths of Vietnams northwest,
an area very few of us get the time or
opportunity to travel to. Filled with fantastic
cinematography interspersed with moments
of creative shadow-puppetry, the movie is

an entertaining journey of serious issues
and well timed comic relief. It is not just a
documentary, it is an adventure travelogue.
Shot in five trips over two years, the film
follows Dworzanczyk into the heart of the
northwest and introduces us not only to the
stunning rocky landscape, but also to the
people that call it home. It is a journey to
discover the truth behind the mythical Love
Market, and who knows what well find on
the way.
I started out by trying to find the history
and legends behind the Love Market, says
Dworzanczyk, but what I came to realise is
that the people are so much more interesting
than the myths.
The story takes a winding, abstract
road. There is no climax and no great
revelation. Yes we do find the Love Market
and Dworzanczyk does come to a loose
conclusion on how and why it exists (I dont
want to give anything away) but thats not
the ah-ha moment. The highlight is the
pure pleasure of watching such a beautifully
made film about a fascinating area of the
world.
All of this is set to the backdrop of a score
composed by musician Josh Kopeek. Played
on a traditional khen a stringed Hmong
instrument transported all the way from
Khau Vai the music is a mix of modern
influences and traditional sounds. It is a
reflection of how the film has entwined
pieces of history with a modern day event.
The result is 90 minutes of beautiful
scenery, interesting stories, and great music.
Vibrant Highland, Commercial Love is a must
see for anyone curious about in the culture,
history and people of the region.
To see a trailer of the documentary, do a search
on You Tube for Vibrant Highland, Commercial
Love. To find out where you can see the movie, go
to etheriumsky.com or email etheriumsky@gmail.
com Katie Jacobs
briefings
BRIEFINGS
NATIONAL
Vietnam Festival
Calendar 2015
With the biggest festival of them all just around the corner,
its time to see what else 2015 has in store
hile Vietnams festival

calendar isnt filled with
guidebook exclamation marks
like Thailands Songkran or
Myanmars fire balloons, what the country

does have is remarkably varied, owing to
a range of influences. Many are hard to
access but its worth trying what youll
The rivers leading to the Perfume Pagoda
Traditional Festivals
The Perfume Pagoda Festival
When: 1st lunar month, 6th day, through 3rd
lunar month Feb. 24 through mid-May
Where: Huong Pagoda, My Duc, Hanoi
Second only to Tet in popularity, this festival
attracts hundreds of thousands of pilgrims
every year to the Perfume Pagoda, the most
famous Buddhist pilgrimage site in Vietnam.
Pilgrims take boats up the Yen River, young
women usually manning the paddles, past
rice paddies and jagged limestone karsts.
Then they climb hundreds of stone steps to
get to the network of caves that makes up
the Perfume Pagoda.
Vietnamese people believe that Huong
find are traditions preserved intact, often

without the self-consciousness that goes
along with overexposure. Read on to see
our picks:
The Quan Ho Folk Song Festival in Lim Village near Hanoi
Son, the commune where the pagoda is

located, is Buddhas Heaven. The 15th
to 20th of the 2nd lunar month Apr. 3
to Apr. 8 this year are the main days of
celebration, supposedly a good time for
starting romantic courtships.
Quan Ho Folk Song Festival

When: 1st lunar month, 13th day Mar. 3
Where: Lim Village, close to Hanoi
The Lim Festival attracts tens of thousands
of visitors each year, to hear the sweet quan
ho songs sang in the UNESCO-recognised art
forms traditional birthplace. Here one can
hear exchanges of hope and yearning sung by
the countrys top quan ho singers, in traditional
surroundings like pagodas and fields.
There are also traditional temple games

played. In one, a teenage girl must hold a
strangers baby, cook rice from a fire she
starts with chewed sugar cane for fuel, and
keep a frog from leaping out of a circle. If
the baby cries, the fire goes out or the frog
escapes, the girl loses.
Animal Festivals
The Buffalo Sacrifice Festival
When: 12th lunar month through 3rd lunar
month mid-January through mid-May
Where: Tay Nguyen region, Central Highlands
Unlike the Do Son Buffalo Fighting Festival
held in Hai Phong on Sep. 21 this year
the premiere festival of the Central
Highlands ethnic communities is more of

a gorefest. Trees are chopped down and
carved, drums are beaten and a lot of buffalo
are killed. Men who can kill buffalo with a
single stab are honoured, and the meat of
their kill is shared. Buffalo horns are hung on
the villages communal house, and buffalo
blood is used to wash village treasures.
In addition to all the buffalo killing,
theres dancing, praying and women trying
to splash men with water. This part isnt
any less serious than the main event men
splashed by the water will supposedly have
a hard time getting married in the future.
The Whale Festival

When: Middle of 3rd lunar month late-April
to early-May
Where: Fishing villages that worship whales
According to legend, Emperor Gia Longs ship
Where: An Giang Province, Mekong Delta

Lets put aside the fable-like title for a
moment at its heart, An Giangs Cow
Racing Festival is an ancestor worship
festival. It begins with a visit to the pagoda,
and the souls of the dead are invited to
eat with the living. If any visitors you?
appear during the festival, theyll be
taken as messengers sent in proxy by their
ancestors.
Then banana tree rafts are sent down the
river, carrying offerings. And then! Its cow
racing time.
The race is set in a muddy paddy field,
with pairs of cows harnessed to a jockey
sliding around on this wooden jet-ski
apparatus. It gets a bit messy. Part rodeo,
part picnic and part comedy of errors, the
Cow Racing Festival is the premiere event of
the barnyard animal racing season.
The Khmer Cow Racing Festival in An Giang
was once saved by a helpful whale and

from that moment on, whales were accepted
throughout the country as gods. Fishermen
were especially receptive to this tradition, and
still build temples to store whalebones.
For two days in the third lunar month,
villagers and fishing boats in these seaside
towns join in celebrating the whale gods,
with peace offerings offered (no seafood),
a boat procession to demonstrate the
fishermens sincerity and classical operas to
soothe those not-so-savage beasts.
Racing Festivals
Khmer Cow Racing Festival
When: Last day of the Khmer calendar Apr. 13
Quirky Festivals
The Reproductive Organs Festival
When: 1st lunar month, 11th day, at midnight
Mar. 1
Where: Phu Tho Province, Northern Vietnam
While Japans wooden penis festivals get
all the press, Tu Xa Commune in Phu Tho
Province has a genital festival of its own
the Tro Tram Festival. No the penis
and nuong the vagina are carved from
wood, then put into a box, which is then put
into a shrine. The shrine door is opened at
midnight, and prayers for a successful year
are said.
The next day is the fun part, when a
muscular man and a graceful woman
hold their carved counterparts, knocking
them together as the crowd chants. Young
people [open]up their soul, older
The Elephant Racing Festival in Dak Lak
Elephant Racing Festival

When: 3rd lunar month mid-April to
mid-May
Where: Don Village, Dak Lak Province
The Mnong ethnic group loves their
elephants, but then again, so does all of
Vietnam. Theyve been involved in wars and
figured into folklore. And the Elephant Racing
Festival is the time of year they are honoured.
First, elephants from surrounding villages
will be pitted in races against each other, and
the winner of each race will be feted with
sugarcane, bananas and a wreath. Then the
elephants take to the Serepok River for a
swimming competition, or games like football
and tug-of-war. Winning elephants have been
known to raise their trunks in glory.
people remember their young and nave

days. Under Entertaining Activities,
holidaysvietnam.com says lots of loves are
made.
The Parasite-Killing Festival

When: 5th lunar month, 5th day Jun. 20
Where: The whole of the country
Its the Summer Solstice, your hay fever
is acting up, so you might as well take in
some sour foods like oranges, limes, rice
wine and tro cake to cleanse your stomach
and your soul. Put some offerings in for
your ancestors while youre at it. In an
agricultural country like Vietnam, food is
usually the cure for what ails you or what
might.
briefings
BRIEFINGS
HANOI
Vietnamese Wrestling
Gus Roe comes in full contact with an ancient martial art
ne day a long time ago, a flash flood

ravaged the commune of Liem Tuc. One
of the villagers, Doan, ran to give aid to
people in the affected areas. But when
he arrived at the scene of the flooding, he found a
glowing sword resting on a red cloth. He accepted
this sacred gift and tied the sword around his waist
with the cloth.
Some time later Doan was called upon to defend
the country. He became a fierce, near-invulnerable
warrior, famed for his sword and grappling skills.
Eventually he was killed in battle. On hearing the
news, his wife, Bui, died of grief.
So struck were the people of Liem Tuc by the
death of the couple, that they began to venerate
them, and worship their memory. Over time Doan
and Bui were given the titles Thanh Ong and Tien
Ba god and goddess. To pay homage, every
year the villagers of Lieu Doi in Liem Tuc hold a
traditional wrestling festival.
**********
Im a martial artist and a documentarian based
in Hanoi. Last year when I was offered the

chance to go the dau vat festival during Tet, I
couldnt refuse. I spent some time the month
before researching the village and connecting
with the locals. A pro fighter, Linh, and his
friend Thuy agreed to give me some training.
When I arrived on the day of the festival, I had
no idea what to expect. This is the diary of my
experience.
5am
A nearly 1,000-person-strong parade leads
from the ancient soi vat wrestling arena to
Doans shrine outside the village. The village
elders perform rituals, burn incense and
deliver gifts requesting luck for the coming
year. The offerings are accepted by the
ancestors and the parade pours back into the
village square.
7am
The fighters divide into four groups and take
position around a worn canvas tarpaulin on
a bed of straw. The festival begins with one of

the oldest villagers reenacting the legend of
Doan.
9am
Time to fight. The first few bouts are symbolic,
known as trai rot. The local sons born on the
previous years most auspicious dates must
wrestle. As theyre less than one year old, their
fathers or grandfathers tag in for them.
10.30am
Two old guys take to the canvas and start to
fight. I ask Thuy their age and my jaw hits
the floor: one is 84, the other is 87. As we
watch Thuy tells me about how dangerous
the festival used to be, and points out the
scarred faces and torn ears of some of the older
competitors. These are some serious fighters.
11am
My turn. I nervously get to my feet and
take to the canvas, but its over quickly. My
competitor shoots down and takes me off

balance. I topple over and nothings hurt
except for my pride. The next fights go a little
better. With my weight advantage I manage
to throw my opponents, remaining in the
running barely.
Day 2
7am
My first fight of the day, and Im paired with
the most heavy-set guy in the district. We
grapple and both hit the floor, his feet are
in the air moments before mine. I win on a
technicality.
Next I face Linh, and Im dreading it. This
fights much longer, I get in a few good grabs
before Linh darts down and gets hold of my
leg, slamming me down onto my back and
neck. Officially Im out of the running.
11am
There is a traditional display fight between
Linh and another pro, Truong. This bout has
no time limit. Six minutes of full contact,
adrenalin-fuelled wrestling. Their exhaustion
is soon clear. This is my personal highlight of
the event seeing this art used just like in real
combat all those years before.
Day 3
8am
My mentor Linh is named giai coc, champion.
Just when I think its all over, an elder leans
over and tells me: Now we have the giai coc
fights these are the important ones!
Linh sits in the centre of the ring wearing
Doans red scarf. Any competitor can walk
in and challenge him. Five fighters take
the opportunity, but Linh takes them out
one by one. Finally, hes declared the grand
champion. The crowd cheer and the village is
honoured.
Linh is presented with Doans red cloth and
ceremonial sword.
11am
The elders invite us to join them, and we sit on
a straw mat in front of the shrine drinking tea.
As we chat they explain why its so important
to keep dau vat alive. Its one of the very few
truly indigenous Vietnamese martial arts.
2pm
Were back on the road to Hanoi, bruised,
aching, but amazed. Its hard to believe that
this world is so close to the capital. Now I can
start training for next time.
A Quick Guide to Dau Vat

Dau Vat or traditional Vietnamese
wrestling festivals are held on the fifth
day of Tet in Lieu Doi Village, Liem Tuc,
Ha Nam Province, just south of Hanoi.
The festival is a tribute to the God of
Martial Arts, Thanh Ong.
The rules of the festival are as follows:
Each fighter has a minimum of six
contests
To stay in the competition they
must win 50 percent of their matches
The first person to be taken down
on their back or thrown loses
Prizes are small, but people fight
for honour
briefings
IN TRANSITION
HCMC
Deutsches Haus
(cnr. Le Duan and Le Van Huu, Q1, Ho Chi Minh City)
lants line the wallboard circling

the under-construction office
tower, along with people waiting
for their turn in the US Consulate
line. Sidewalk vendors cater to this
buttoned-down overflow, seats all facing
the nondescript yellow consulate walls.
Xe om drivers perch on their bikes,
women in eveningwear and dust masks
line the tree-shadows; construction
workers laugh and smoke with a
background of dust. The skateboard
kids havent yet reclaimed this officialbusiness stretch of downtown, and this
empty sidewalk is the one place in the
vicinity with a more relaxed 9-to-5 feel.
But this plastic chair idyll wont last
forever.
In the third quarter of 2017, the
25-storey Deutsches Haus will open its
glass-and-steel frame, and will be home
to the Consulate General of the Federal
Republic of Germany. It will also become
a destination for German companies and
expats looking to enjoy its LEED-certified

German precision. The 40,000sqm of total
floor area will include the type of open
pedestrian plaza rarely seen in Saigon,
where most developers insist on building
out to the edge of the sidewalk. Thats a
luxury afforded by the type of sweetheart
deal the German General Consulate struck
early last year, leasing the 3,500sqm lot
for 99 years from the municipality for a
symbolic price of VND1.
The German firm Von Gerkan, Marg und
Partner (gmp) are the lead architects on the
project, and theyve done their homework.
It started with a 2010 Goethe-Institut Hanoi
workshop, brainstorming the development
with 24 Vietnamese and German
participants. With 440 prizes in national
and international competitions and over
290 executed projects including Berlin
Central Station, Olympic Stadium Berlin,
the National Convention Centre in Hanoi
and the soon-to-be-completed Museum for
the History of Hanoi gmp are seen as a
trustworthy partner in the development of

the future Saigon skyline. Local firm TWOG
Architecture Joint Stock Co. are assisting.
As the 40-year anniversary of diplomatic
relations between Vietnam and Germany
arrives, this new development will become
the southern citys most notable German
presence one that will hopefully act as
the type of cultural base Hanoi has in their
Goethe-Institut.
Construction started in October of this
year, though the work has been mostly
foundation-oriented. For now, the unused
sidewalk is a welcome concession to
local street culture, and the lunchtime
crowds outnumber the visa-seekers for the
American Consulate just across the road.
This kerbside culture can only exist in
the gaps in development, and we might be
witnessing its last gasps on busy Le Duan.
Ed Weinberg
For more information on Deutsches Haus
and projections of the finished design, visit
deutscheshausvietnam.com
Photos by Francis Xavier
Photos by Julie Vola
briefings
BRIEFINGS
HANOI
Je Suis Charlie
A local tribute to an international event
ednesday afternoon, I am quickly

looking through Facebook when
I see a post with a link and just
this comment: truly horrible
Something has happened and its there. The
news. I cant believe what I am reading.
Two gunmen have attacked Charlie Hebdo,
a weekly satirical newspaper, during their
editorial meeting. 12 dead.
I am shocked.
Charlie Hebdo was, no is, satirical,
irreverent, without taboos, politically
inappropriate, controversial, an agitator, and
one of the best representatives of the French
concept of freedom of speech. Known for
its caricatures of Mohammed, the newspaper
was attacked in 2011 and has been under
police protection for years.
Part of a long tradition of French satirical
newspapers, a tradition that started in the
Age of Enlightenment, the era that gave us
the French Revolution, Charlie Hebdo comes
from beliefs that are deeply anchored in
French society and culture the mocking
of politics, religion and self-righteousness
exactly where it hurts the most.

Can we laugh at everything? It is a
question asked of every French high school
student during their philosophy exams. Is
it responsible for provoking religious and
racial tensions? Can we, in France, have
freedom of expression and try to limit it
if it goes into the bounds of blasphemy
and racism, or is it simply too offensive or
provocative? Charlie Hebdos answer is clear.
Its a right. Its a duty.
Solidarity
The French community in Hanoi is united
by a common understanding every single
one of us is shocked.
The French Embassy organise a tribute on
the Thursday and the French owners of the
RockStore host a get-together on the Friday.
At the Embassy the atmosphere is solemn
and dignified. We light candles, speak
softly and smoke cigarettes in the garden.
Questions like how are you? seem stupid
and out of place, the answer is impossible
and I apologise as I ask the question myself.
We exchange our memories of Charlie Hebdo,

the cartoonists Cabu, Wolinsky and Tignous.
What is your Charlie? When did you read
it for the first time? You too read Wolinsky
when you were young?
Friday, braving the cold, rain and traffic,
I arrive at RockStore. There are big signs Je
suis Charlie on the wall and an invitation to
draw some cartoons. There are some people
from the Embassy, French tourists, some
young expats, different nationalities, but not
a lot. Its really bad weather outside, but we
are together and its important. The emotion
from the day before has cooled down a bit.
There are debates already taking place.
What are the consequences of what
happened? How will it affect society, the
French Republic?
Charlie Hebdo wasnt a big part of my
life; I am not one of their readers. But they
represent freedom of speech and their
presence is assuring. Nothing was sacred to
them. They have courage and are rebellious.
And like most French, I happy they are here.
Julie Vola
Pets
of the
Month:
Yours!
RC doesnt just do pet rescue.

Theyre also a community of
people who love cute animals
and really, isnt that all of us?
Though the byzantine rules of pet
housing here dont allow ARC to house
dogs in the way they house cats, that
doesnt mean they dont care. And for
the past couple of months, theyve been
showing how much, by organising
twice monthly dog walks on Saturday
afternoons. They usually cover about 5km,
taking different routes around Thao Dien
with the doggie parade.
In addition to the dogs people bring,
ARC also takes out dogs who are waiting
to be fostered and re-homed a nice way

of getting dog lovers to meet cute dogs in a
casual setting. And if youre game, theyll
be spayed, fully vaccinated and waiting
for you to take him home today. Contact
arcpets@gmail.com to make your date with
doggie destiny, or check their Facebook
page for announcements.
Tet Staycations
ARC is in need of foster homes to care
for their foster cats during Tet. If youre
staying around why not make your hols
a bit more interesting by getting to know
one of ARCs brood. Contact arcpets@gmail.
com to see how you can help.
briefings
Saigon Players
Month Community Outreach
Charity
of
the
Saigons community theatre contributes more than just art
o, moving up to the next

item on the agenda, says
the Saigon Players secretary
Stuart Turner, were up
to choosing the charity. How do we feel
about the options for the next show?
Im sitting in on Saigon Players Steering
Committee meeting for their upcoming
performance of Death and the Maiden (Mar.
11 to Mar. 14, venue TBA). I want to know
about the charity work thats seen them
donate VND20 to 30 million per show to
various charities over the past 11 years.
Well, says producer-director Jennifer
Dizon Turner, I suggested the Little Rose
Shelter, because the theme is assault on a
woman, and Little Rose Shelter supports
girls who have been in that kind of
situation.
How did we find out about them?
someone says, for my benefit.
We actually helped them previously,
Jennifer says. Weve donated to some
charities many times, we want to keep the
partnership going.
At the other end of the production
cycle, Saigon Players have sponsored 30
HIV-positive and AIDS-orphaned children
through Helping Hand Saigon, raised
money for wells built by the Christina
Noble Foundation and raised funds and

awareness for 16 other non-profits and
orphanages.
The proceeds from shows are typically
split between more than one charity, with
thematic and regional connections, and
tangible results. Just as Jennifer thought
of Little Rose Shelter for the upcoming
production, so too did road safety charity
AIP Foundation come to mind when putting
on the moto-centric Life Cycle of Saigon. And
the other charity supported by Life Cycle was
Helping Hand Saigon they wanted to
help the organisation fund their Christmas
party.
The Pitch
This Feb. 7, Snow White and the Seven Nguyens
is getting two encore performances. With the
commitment to Viet Hearts already fulfilled,
theyre looking to choose a new beneficiary.
Jean-Marc is 60ish, French, a lifelong
volunteer who has spent years in aid work in
Africa and India. So basically I got burned
out supporting orphanages, he starts,
because there was too much corruption.
And now Im working with these two guys.
One is still at the orphanage [that Jean-Marc
had volunteered at]. For 12 years hes been
going every day at the orphanage... I trust
him. Hes still at that same rotten orphanage,

but we dont go through the rotten woman.
The other charity work of the man JeanMarc trusts, Dominique Broncard, is through
an organisation called Gia Dinh Co Don,
which is supporting the school fees of 18
children in Loc Ninh, near the Cambodian
border. Their families land is being taken
for rubber plantations, and whats left isnt
enough Dominique first learnt about their
plight at that rotten orphanage where
some of their children were sent.
Pitch No. 2 is in support of a VietnameseCanadian piano teacher named Nguyen
Quoc My. For 16 years, his organisation Dat
Viet has supported the children of Ben San
Leprosy Centre in Binh Duong Province. The

children arent sick, but their families are
destitute. For now, Dat Viet supports each
of the 78 school-age children with VND1
million per year and they want to double
that amount. In the 16 years that My has
helped the children of Ben San, 60 of them
have gone through university one Ph.D
holder among their number.
The presentation goes on far longer than
we have space for, and convinces us all.
Jean-Marcs wife Sabine, also a member
of Saigon Players, balks at any praise of the
work she shares with her husband. Who are
we? she says. Just little nobodies who have
a heart.
Its her way of saying something the

Players would agree with, that its the least
they could do. Ed Weinberg
You can support the work of Little Rose Shelter
by going to littleroseshelter.wordpress.com; Gia
Dinh Co Don by contacting Dominique Broncard
at domkko@hotmail.com; and Dat Viet through
Nguyen Quoc My at myquocnguyen@gmail.
com.
Or just go to the upcoming performance of
Snow White and the Seven Nguyens on Feb. 7,
where all of the proceeds from the VND200,000
tickets will be donated to charity. Shows are at
3pm and 5.30pm at Vista Walk, Level P2, 628C
Xa Lo Ha Noi, Q2, HCMC. Check saigonplayers.
com for more info
Sports Digest
IN BRIEF
Play Hard, Smoke Less

Smoking should be kept to
a minimum in the stands
and technical areas during
the matches of the top-flight
V-League from the 2015 season
which started earlier in January,
the Vietnam Professional
Football (VPF) has announced,
citing new regulations,
according to Tuoi Tre. Pham
Ngoc Vien, VPF general director,
said fans, officials and coaches
will be required to refrain from
smoking during V-League
games from next year onward.
Teen Tennis Phenom Eyes

Davis Cup, SEA Games
Vietnams No. 1 tennis player Ly
Hoang Nam will be part of the
team that will compete in the
2015 Davis Cup Asia/Oceania
Zone Group III matches in April,
according to Vietnam News.
Eight teams will compete in this
group, including Cambodia,
Hong Kong, Malaysia, Qatar
and Vietnam. Nam, 18, will also
be a key player for the national
team that will compete in the
28th Southeast Asian Games in
June in Singapore.
Color Me Run Returns

Registration has started for
again for the Color Me Run in
Ho Chi Minh City, according
to the events Facebook
page. Registration fees are
VND550,000 per person, and
VND500,000 per individual
in a group of 10 or more.
Applications for volunteers are
also being accepted. There will
also be similar events this year
held in Hanoi and Danang.
This years event will take place
on Apr. 11. For more info, visit
colormerun.vn.
Martial Arts Elite Headed

For HCMC
The 2015 World Martial Arts
Festival will be held in Ho Chi
Minh City from Apr. 19 to Apr.
25, according to Vietnam News.
The competition is expected to
attract thousands of athletes
competing in 20 disciplines from
all over the world, including
China, Japan, and Canada.
A martial arts workshop and
exchanges between competitors
will also take place.
SPORTS DIGEST
NATIONAL
Never Too Cool For

Pride in Your School
From the sidelines, Harry Hodge sizes up Vietnams month in sports
arch Madness is huge

for college sports fans
in North America, but
in Vietnam the party
kicks off in January.
The Vietnam
University Games (VUG),
a multidisciplinary
interuniversity competition,
sees schools participating in
Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi and
recent addition Danang for
bragging rights at the top of the
nations sports heap. And while
Americas NCAA tournaments
may show university athletics
at the highest level, both
from sports and marketing
standpoints, the Vietnamese
version has carved out their
own niche to make the event
unique here.
XLE Group spokesperson
Thao Le, whose company also
operates Saigon Heat of the
ASEAN Basketball League,
told Word that the friendly
competition is beneficial for a
number of reasons.
(The Games) help
encourage school pride, sports
passion and make students

live in a healthy way, Thao
says. Each school always has
something to be proud of.
Every school is required to
create their own school logo,
their own colours and a mascot.
And besides the official prizes
for futsal and the dance battle,
VUG also has the most valuable
prize for the school which has
the best school spirit.
Capturing this youthful

enthusiasm makes for some
colourful events, in evidence
when I watched fans from
different schools cheering on
their teams during the 2012
basketball events at Tan Binh
Stadium. Each school had
chosen their own sections of
the cavernous gym, so that the
stands looked like blocks of
moving colour. Many fans also
didnt seem to mind cheering
on other schools if their own
was not playing at the time.
Thao says this gives students
an outlet from the pressure of
constant study.
Most Vietnamese
universities focus on studying
and dont care about outside
activities, Thao says. But
the VUG has created an
opportunity for all universities
in Vietnam to change that
mindset.
[These] competitions not
only help encourage sports
passion for students, but also
the love and pride for their
own school.
Photos provided by Vietnam University Games
Vietnam University Games Ho Chi Minh City Schedule

Apr. 11: HCMC futsal (an indoors version of five-a-side
football) quarter-finals and HCMC dance battle day one
Apr. 18: HCMC futsal semi-finals and HCMC dance
battle day two
Apr. 19: HCMC futsal final
May 9: National futsal final
May 10: National dance battle final
For additional information, visit vug.vn now and throughout

the competition. All the above events will be held at Ho Chi
Minh Citys Tan Binh Stadium
Vietnam Volleyball
Hosts Womens Tourney
Team Folds due MatchFixing Scandal
The annual International

Womens Volleyball
Championships is scheduled to
kick off in Vietnam in March,
reports Vietnam News.
The winners of this years
tournament will walk away
with US$15,000 (VND320
million), while the runnersup will receive US$6,000
(VND128 million). Prizes
will also be awarded to
outstanding individuals.
The tournament, which
is also known as the VTVBinh Dien Cup, will see
the participation of four
domestic and four foreign
teams competing in a round
robin format before the top
four teams progress to the
semi-finals.
Vietnam will
be represented by
sponsored teams from
LienVietPostBank, VTV-Binh
Dien Long An, VietinBank
and Thanh Hoa, while
the foreign invitees are
Kazakhstan, Fujian Club
of China, Bangkok Glass of
Thailand and North Korea.
The chairman of the scandalplagued Vissai Ninh Binh football club filed a petition to shut
down the club after nine players
were convicted of gambling and
banned from playing for life,
reports Thanh Nien.
Chairman Pham Van Le
said team leaders no longer
have the heart and motivation
to carry on under the cloud
of disgrace that settled over
them during the match-fixing
scandal that broke during the
2014 AFC Cup.
Earlier in January, the
northern clubs headquarters
was closed to all of its divisions.
Even its Under-13, Under-15
and Under-19 teams were told
to go home and await an official
decision from the provincial
administration.
On Dec. 25, Vietnam
Professional Footballs
Disciplinary Board issued a
decision that banned the nine
former Vissai Ninh Binh players
for life, in addition to fining
them an additional VND20
million each for gambling and
match fixing.
Health an Issue as
V-League Clubs
Make Moves
Hang Hangs em Up
The season is early,

but some of the
V-Leagues notable
imports have already
been shown the door.
Thanh Hoa fired Nigerian
striker Timothy Anjembe after
just two rounds of the Toyota
V-League 1. The main reasons
were his poor performance
and lack of discipline during
training, the club announced.
Thanh Hoa has since signed
a contract with Brazilian Patrick
Roberto Daniel Da Silva to
strengthen its chances of winning
ahead of the V-League 1s third
round. Anjembe was the best
V-League scorer in 2012 with 17
goals, when he played for Ha
Noi FC. Last season, he netted 18
times for Hoang Anh Gia Lai.
Hoang Anh Gia Lai have
also announced intentions to
cut loose Slovenian midfielder
Morec Mitja and Swedish
striker Darko Lukanovic. Mitja
has a heart condition, while
Lukanovic does not meet the
team managers requirements,
reports say.
Vietnamese track-and-field
queen Truong Thanh Hang
has decided to retire from
competition, says Vietnam
News.
The 28-year-old athlete has
not recovered from an injury
she received during training
three years ago. While
practising with teammates
in Danang, she was hit from
behind by a motorcycle,
injuring her right leg in the
incident.
She is one of Asias
foremost middle-distance
runners, having been the
Asian champion in the 800m
indoor and outdoor events.
She was a double silver
medalist at the 2010 Asian
Games. She was also very
successful at the Southeast
Asian Games, where she
won gold medals on five
occasions from
2005 to 2009, in
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addition to being
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to do list
Ho Chi Minh City
Valentines Day
Cupids coming, but sometimes he needs a little help to
get there. Give those arrows a bigger target by taking your
sweetheart on these fun dates
Au Lac Do Brazil
aulacdobrazil.com
They may not have won the
World Cup, but everybody
knows Brazilians do love
better than the rest of us mere
mortals. Thats why you
should totally get on board
the Brazilian love train at Au
Lac Do Brazil this Valentines.
Theyre promising a special
night for special couples,
an unforgettable evening
in fact, with a traditional
all-you-can-eat Brazilian
style barbecue and romantic
ambience. Get there either
between 11am and 2pm or
5pm and 11pm on Feb. 14
to enjoy music, a couples
cocktail and a special gift for
the ladies! No word on how
much it costs at this stage, but
who can put a price on love,
right?
Novotel Nha Trang

novotel-nhatrang.com
Both The Square restaurant
buffet and a poolside BBQ
are on offer this Feb. 14,
where VND525,000++ per
person will get you the
aforementioned buffet, and
VND630,000++ per person
will pay for the pre-dinner
cocktails, live music and
complimentary rose. Theres
also a free flow of beer and
soft drinks, and a fun lucky
draw going down.
Park Hyatt Saigon

parkhyattsaigon.com
If youre looking to make a
good impression, Park Hyatt
Saigon has everything to

make this Valentines Day
unforgettable. You cant go
wrong with dinner so take
your darling to Opera or
Square One restaurant on
Feb. 14 and indulge in a
sumptuous five-course menu.
Set in the incandescent light of
one of Saigons finest dining
venues, dinner at Opera
(VND3,333,000 net) per couple
includes one glass of Prosecco
rose for you and your love.
The dinner for two at
Square One (VND 5,555,000
net) also includes one glass
of Moet & Chandon Rose per
person. To express yourself
through food even more,
try their delectable range of
macarons (VND90,000++)
available in a range of
sweet sweet lovin flavours
throughout February. Be
careful, though, youll be
saying I do before you know
it with this type of help on
your side.
07
SATURDAY
COOKING AT BLANCHY STREET

Iron Chefs get ready! Allez
cuisine! Impress everyone you
know by cooking Japanese food
like a pro after just one class!
Learn the secrets to some
classics: the chicken teriyaki,
tuna sashimi salad, and spicy
udon noodle soup. Be tutored by
chefs Oba and Martin at Blanchy
Street, and get ready to have
fun. For VND800,000 for one or

with a 10 percent discount for
bookings of two or more, this
sounds a great value Saturday
afternoon for you and a friend.
Dont be late, class starts at 2pm!
To book, email Ilda at i.briosca@
saigoncookingclass.com. Check out
facebook.com/SCCbyBlanchyStreet
for more info
11 WEDNESDAY
Sheraton Saigon
sheratonsaigon.com
Valentines romance isnt
dead with the Romance in Paris
night Sheraton has going on
Feb. 14. This is the ultimate
candle-lit degustation menu at
Level 23 Signature Restaurant
for VND1.9 million++ per
person.
The Lounge will also
be offering up champagne
and fresh strawberries for
VND280,000++ on the big
day, from 8am till late. Sounds
decadent enough to us!
SKETCHES FROM OLD SAIGON

Lusine is getting into the art
game with a solo exhibition by
local artist Le Hung Trong, a
selection of 20 line drawings and
watercolours from his upcoming
book Saigon Xua. These drawings
are a celebration of Saigons
chaos and charm, harkening
back to iconic landmarks and
forgotten images. Attendees will

also be able to grab a copy of his
book, making its retail debut.
Lusine Dong Khois opening
party for Le Hung Trongs Saigon
Xua exhibit goes from 6pm to
9pm, at 151/1 Dong Khoi, Q1,
HCMC. For a sneak peek, check out
saigonsaigon.weebly.com
22
UNTIL FEB.
THE CAT DREAMS IN COLOUR

The vivid paintings that make
up Nguyen Huong Duongs
latest exhibition are spotted with
splashes of colour everywhere,
in the action painting style.
Born in the Year of the Cat, the
painter has tried to portray his
dreams on canvas and they
come into this world like the

elliptical, fleeting impressions
you might imagine cats ponder.
Meo Mo Mau Me hangs at
the Craig Thomas Gallery 27i
Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, HCMC
until Feb. 22. For a glimpse, go to
cthomasgallery.com
ALL MONTH
FLOWER ON TEXTILE
In their ongoing collaboration with
Phuong Mys Flagship Store, San
Art unleashes Nguyen Huu Tram
Kha on these fashion-inspired
woodblock prints. As Phuong
Mys new spring collection focuses
on the beauty of flowery print on
textile, so too does this exhibit
dating back to the Japanese 19th
century tradition.
Visit the Phuong My Flagship
Store at 81 Le Thanh Ton, Q1,
HCMC to see Nguyen Huu Tram
Khas woodblock print art. Go to
san-art.org for more info
BYO HITS CHILL!

chillsaigon.com
From now until the end of
February, Chill Skybar wants
you to show them your bottle.
Bring-your-own-bottle is their
new concept for Mondays.
Indulge in your own favourites
and enjoy no corkage while you
take in the panoramic views
Chill is famous for. They say
its more fun enjoying their
signature dishes while drinking

your own wine at no extra cost
and, well, were going to have
to go ahead and agree with that.
What can you do to make your
Monday more exciting? Looks
like you have an answer.
Chill Skybar and its restaurant,
27 Grill, are way up high on Floor
26 and 27, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai,
Q1, HCMC
IF YOURE LOOKING FOR A COPY OF WORD

IN HO CHI MINH CITY, THESE FRIENDLY
NEIGHBOURHOOD DISTRIBUTION CENTRES
SHOULD BE ABLE TO HELP:
DISTRICT 1
Au Lac Do Brazil
Au Parc
Bacchus Corner
Bibi @ Alibi
Black Cat
Blanchy's Street
Bootleg DJ Caf
Caf Centro
Chicco Dicaff Caf
Chi's Caf
Ciao Bella
Decibel
Drunken Duck
El Gaucho
Elbow Room
Ginkgo
Hoa Tc
Hogs Breath
Hungry Pig
Ice Blue
Jaspa's
JJ's Brazillian BBQ
Restaurant
La Habana
Last Call
Le Pub
L'usine
May Restaurant & Bar
Monsoon
Number 5
O'Brien's
Pacharan
Park Hyatt
Phatty's
Pomodoro
Red Lounge
Refinery
Spotted Cow
Storm P
Subway
Universal Bar
Vasco's
Vino
Vinyl Bar
Westcoast
Wine Embassy
Wrap & Roll
Xu
Zoom Caf
DISTRICT 2
Agnes Caf
Baan Thai
BMV Coffee
Boathouse
Buddha Bar
Caf Evita
Classic Fine Foods
Feeling Tropic
Gaya
La Villa
Le Bacoulos
LuBu
McSorley's
Mekong Merchant
Noah's Club
Outcast
Parkland Country Club
Pendolasco An Phu
Riverside Apartments
Saigon Scooter Centre
Saigon Yacht Marina
Snap Caf
That's Cafe
The Bike Shop
The Deck
The Fan Club
The Loop
Villa Song Saigon
Bobby Brewer's
Gloria Jean's
Hideaway Caf
Highway 4
Himiko Caf
ID Caf
Shri
Sushi Dining AOI
Yoko
DISTRICT 7
American Eye Center
Boomarang Bistro & Bar
Caf Terrace
Cham Charm
El Gaucho
FV Hospital
Gloria Jean's
Harry Casual
La Cucina
Nathalie's Place
Peaches Coffee
Rusty Bucket
Salt & Pepper Italian
Restaurant
Scott and Binh' s
Smile Dental
Subway
The Tavern
That's Cafe
Tib
Wrap & Roll
BINH THANH
Star Fitness
Evita Bistro
DISTRICT 3
PHU NHUAN
American Chiropractic
Center
Acoustic
I'm Yours Coffee

Up Caf
Victoria Healthcare
If you are interested in your business receiving copies of Word Vietnam to distribute
to your customers, please email trinh@wordvietnam.com (Ho Chi Minh City) or
giang@wordvietnam.com (Hanoi). For a small fee, we also offer a home delivery
service direct to your door. Simply email subscriptions@wordvietnam.com
to do list
Ho Chi Minh City
Tet
Its the Year of the Goat, and youre all dressed up with nowhere to go. Well, thats not exactly true. Here are a few options
Amanoi
amanoi.com
With Tet coming up, you could probably use a break a real break. Amanoi
is offering that, in its 31 pavilions and
five villas cloistered in the hills of Nui
Chua National Park, overlooking the
sandy beaches of Vinh Hy Bay. Through
next year, Vietnam residents can enjoy
an experience found nowhere else in the
country, starting at VND10.75
million++.
New World Saigon Hotel

newworldhotels.com
Why leave town when theres food like
this on the menu at New World this Tet?
The Year of the Goat calls for a special
celebration so New World encourages
you to bring your family to Parkview to
experience their bountiful buffet featuring
enough lobster, crab and prawn to sink a
fishing boat between Feb. 18 and Feb. 21.
Lunch (VND680,000 per person) and dinner
(VND 980,000 per person) both include free
flow coffee, tea and soft drink as well as
a lucky money voucher for 30 percent off
dining through March.
If staying homes more your thing,
Dynasty have a Tet Takeaway Feast
available from Feb. 10 to Feb. 28 in lamb

(VND1,890,000 per leg) and chicken
(VND988,000 per chicken) varieties. If
your family isnt impressed with that, you
should immediately disown them and
change all your numbers. It is a brave New
World after all. Happy Tet, readers!
Novotel Nha Trang

The 18th floor rooftop of the Novotel is a
good spot to watch the fireworks, have a
drink and take some pictures. Its a tame
10pm to 12.30am call time the night of Feb.
18, as they want you to get up for a buffet
lunch the next day. The fireworks and
buffet lunch are VND350,000++ each, and
the fireworks fee comes with three drinks of
house wine, beer or soft drink.
Pullman Danang
pullman-danang.com
Having trouble pronouncing Tet properly?
What about Sun, Sea and Spa? If you can
manage that, then the guys at Pullman
Danang might just be your new best friends.
They have a Tet Holiday package going
between Feb. 13 and Mar. 1 called the Family
Fun Offer (VND5.8 million net) per room per
night. Valid for a three-night stay in a Superior
Room it includes a daily set dinner for two per

stay, a daily 90-minute spa treatment for two
per stay and a credit voucher of VND1 million
to use at any of the resorts outlets during your
time in paradise. When you consider the Tet
Set Menu comes in at VND380,000 net and
the BBQ Buffet on Wednesdays and Saturdays
sits at VND550,000 nett, how do you say free
money?
Sheraton Saigon
sheratonsaigon.com
Do you need much encouragement
to enjoy a little food luxury this
Tet? Caf Saigon has a clutch of
promotions to ensure you start the Year
of the Goat in style. A Vietnamese buffet
inclusive of free flowing house wine
(VND1,050,000++) will be hosted on
Saturdays, Feb. 7 through Feb. 28 and
during Tet week, from Feb. 19 to Feb.
25. Spoil yourself with classics like banh
chung and pickle, braised pork and egg
with young coconut juice, deep fried
stuffed crab claws, wok-fried beef luc
lac and deep-fried homemade spring
rolls. And on Lunar New Year s Eve Feb.
18, you can enjoy the same for VND1.3
million++ per person, including free
flow house wine, coffee and tea.
SAVE
The
Date
01-06
MAR.
14
SPEECH THERAPY FOR ENGLISH SPEAKERS ON

THE MOVE
If getting the words out is a
challenge for your children,
help is at hand. Sue Cameron
and Simone Dudley are
experienced Speech Pathologist
and Occupational Therapists
conducting their tele-therapy
businesses from Australia. Now
they are taking it international.
They provide remote therapy
from Australia, using Skype
and Lync technology.
They are visiting the Ho
Chi Minh City from Mar.
1 to Mar. 6, meeting with

schools, families and health
professionals to see how they
can help. They offer both
speech and occupational
therapy screening assessments,
and can discuss tele-practice
as an option for families who
need it.
If this sounds right for your
brood on the move, theyd love to
hear from you. Get in touch via
telespeech.com.au, or email sue@
telespeech.com.au
MAR.
AIS IS ALL ABOUT CREATING CURIOSITY

Australian International School
is having an Open Day, and
they want you to know that
they wont just teach your kids
theyll also lead them to a
brighter future.
Spread out over three
campuses in Ho Chi Minh
City, AIS is an accredited IB
school thats been around since
well before we were here. On
Saturday Mar. 14, theyll open
their doors for families who are
looking for a top international

school for their child, or at least
a free day out. Among other
things, visitors will be able to
meet the teachers and other
parents (yay!), watch science in
action, enjoy performances of
Alice in Wonderland the Musical
and attend a real Australian
BBQ. What, no meat pies?
For more information, visit
aisvietnam.com or call the school on
(08) 3742 4040
just in
Ho Chi Minh City
SAN ART RELOCATES

From the first of this month, San Art is
reconfiguring its setup from its original
space on Me Linh, to the ground floor of
the Laboratory Studio at 48/7 Phan Viet
Chanh, Binh Thanh. The Reading Room
will again function as the foyer, letting San
Art pursue their main goal connecting
people with ideas.
San Arts new space is at 48/7 Phan Viet
Chanh, Binh Thanh, HCMC. Go to san-art.org
for more info
PERONI COMES TO VIETNAM ON

DRAFT
ACACIA VERANDA DINING REMODELS

If youre a fan of skyline views in this city,
youre almost spoilt for choice bars and
restaurants need to work hard to stand out.
When you have celebrity chef to the stars
Mr. Jack Lee working for you, youre already
doing well however, with five-star food
you need a five-star look, so thats exactly
what Acacia Veranda Dining have just done.
Theyve remodelled to reflect the rave
reviews we have been receiving for the
cuisine according to marketing manager,
PENDOLASCO REOPENS
After a short hiatus to get going on some
well-needed refurbishment, the oldest
(but now the newest) Italian restaurant in
town has reopened its doors.
While the eatery is known for its
mix of classic, regional Italian fare,
with dishes such as the veal shank
ossobuco (VND430,000) and a range of
pastas and pizzas, there are also more
unusual offerings such as the Valtellina
pizza which comes with smoked beef
(VND250,000). Add to this a cosy,
welcoming environment, and a constantly
changing specials menu, and Pendolasco
might just be the place for you to get a fix
of all things Italian.
Oh, and did we mention that they serve
draft Peroni yet?
Pendolasco 1 is at 87 Nguyen Hue, Q1,
HCMC
Roni Chavez. The current upgrade makes

for a complete five-star experience, from
kitchen, to plate, to table and at four-star
prices, she adds.
Chef Lee agrees. Attention to detail
cannot be overstated. Im really excited
for our guests to see the remodel, it
complements the food perfectly.
For more info, go to facebook.com/
AcaciaVeranda. Acacia is at 149-151 Nguyen
Du, Q1, HCMC
The Italian premium lager, Peroni, is now

available at three locations in Ho Chi Minh
City on draft.
Only the second imported European lager
to be sold on tap in Vietnam the first was
Budvar, which is available in Hanoi at
present this fine brew is sold at Pendolasco
(87 Nguyen Hue, Q1, HCMC), Pok Pok
(39 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, HCMC) and Yo
Yo (83 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, HCMC). A
330mm glass of what is one of the worlds
favourite beers sells at between VND60,000
and VND70,000 a go.
Part of the draft beer revolution that is
currently taking place in Vietnam more
international lagers and ales are due to come
on draft in 2015 expect a number of other
venues to start selling Peroni.
The Month in Observatory

With a recent move to District 4, The Observatory has been throwing off the chains of downtown
respectability in an unprecedented way. All parties take place at the new late night hub of 5 Nguyen Tat
Thanh, Q4, HCMC, starting around 10pm
Fulbert
Friday 6th
Friday 13th
Friday 27th
Fantastic Man
John Morales is Back!
Mad Fyah w/Tippa-Irie
A global force of house, disco and all things

body-moving, Fantastic Man is coming
from Melbourne to shake Saigonese booties
with his fantastic explosion of sound. Free
before midnight, VND100,000 after.
After Decembers blowout gig alongside

Alton Miller, John Morales was so excited
by Saigon that he wanted to return as soon
as possible. He got his wish, and our city
has another chance to witness a legend
of nightclub culture work his magic. Free
The reggae and UK dancehall legend is

returning to the city for the third time at
the invitation of local crew Saigon Rockers,
who will be hosting their first reggae event
at The Observatory. Expect a full tour of
reggaes possibilities with this master of the
mic. Starts at 10pm, VND100,000 entry.
Saturday 14th
Saturday 28th
EA&OC Loft Party
Fulbert
EA&OC residents Dan Lo, Nic Ford and

Hibiya Line bring their eclectic, qualitycontrolled approach to music with a new
monthly night Loft Party, this month
with guest Elia. Free before midnight,
VND50,000 after.
Fulbert of Clich Records is a veteran

electronic music producer, DJ and collector
who has been immersed in the creation and
delivery of raw, deep-reaching house and
techno since the early 1990s. Free before
midnight, VND100,000 after.
Saturday 7th
Mugic Night w/Kentaro, Ulysses,
Dang & Mislav
The Mugic crew responsible for bringing
some of the most underground names to
Singapore are hitting town to lay down
their signature mix of great music, relaxed
attitude and secret party weapons. Free
just in
Ho Chi Minh City

SAIGON SQUARE 3
With all the malls going up these days,
its easy to forget about the little guys.
But Saigon Square, with a bazaar-like
model halfway between a shopping
mall and traditional market, has just
opened a third market on Hai Ba Trung,
of the calibre of the Nam Ky Khoi Nghia
branch. In the face of the Vincom-isation
of the Vietnamese retail experience, its
good to know you can still get a work
shirt for VND150,000 somewhere. If you
can bargain, that is.
Saigon Square 3 is at 179-185 Hai Ba
Trung, Q1, HCMC
ALBA SPA HOTEL OPENS IN HUE

When youre staying in the imperial capital
of Vietnam, you need somewhere fit for an
emperor. Enter Alba Spa Hotel, now open
to rank and file minions like ourselves, but
with no shortage of opportunities to get
treated like nobility.
In addition to treatments designed in
collaboration with renowned spa guru
Florence Jaffre (founder of the Thai spa

brand Ytsara), the 58-room boutique
property on Tran Quang Khai will offer a
16.5sqm Jacuzzi filled with natural mineral
water sourced from nearby hot springs. So
the hardest thing you have to do is get there
sounds pretty royal to us.
For more info, check out albavietnam.com
AIR 360 SKY BAR

Chill and OMG, watch out youve got
a new neighbour on your flight level,
and theyve got a giant light-up balloon
on their summit. Air 360 is so-named
because its the only rooftop bar with
a fully-panoramic outlook on the city.
While that might sound like a dubious
honour, theyve also got a swimming

pool, fish tanks built into some tables
and cheaper prices than their rooftop
competitors.
Check out Air 360 at Floor 21, Ben Thanh
Tower, 136-138 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1
air360skybar.com
ECLECTIC ACCESSORIES FROM

ATTAYA
The seed for Attaya Collective was first
planted in a small West African village circa
2010, where New York City-based artist
Adina Weinland spent her summer. Her later
travels in Indonesia, Myanmar, Thailand,
Malaysia and East Asia resulted in a
mountainous collection of colourful textiles.
After partnering with Mia Nguyen in 2014
they decided to found Attaya Collective, an
accessories line designed to create quality,
versatile and responsibly-made handcrafted
products with the textiles sourced
throughout their travels.
Every product is made by hand in Ho
Chi Minh City under the direction of Han
Nguyen, their master leather worker. Each
piece features a different leather, string
colour and textile hand-matched to best
fit the design and colour of the textile. No
two are alike.
You can find Attaya accessories at Mayhem
Saigon, 136/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, HCMC. For
more info, visit attayacollective.com
ELYSIUM CAF
MACH HOUSE OPENS ON PASTEUR
Food and fashion in the same
venue is a trend were getting
used to luxury item concept
stores that offer more than just
food or fashion but also present
a palette of style choices and
accessories for life. Its a high
street idea and on Pasteur in
District 1, Mach House is exactly
that. They are now open and
serving genuine French and
Vietnamese cuisine at affordable

prices upstairs and selling a
range of bespoke design clothes
and accessories downstairs.
Theyve also got a pretty killer
wine list. Their motto: To
unwind or work in a relaxing
environment, enjoy yourself at
Mach House.
Mach House is at 75 Pasteur, Q1,
HCMC, Tel: (08) 3827 3829
Elysium means paradise,

although the 2013 movie of
the same name might have
given you some other ideas.
These lofty ideals are what this
smart new caf strives for over
its two storeys, and it has the
beans to back it up. Pulling
their pour-over blends from the
same supply as The Workshop
Caf, they also have a decent

breakfast menu featuring the
likes of a delicious VND65,000
eggs benedict on English
muffin. Upstairs the space gets
cosier, with couches, a cleverlystocked bookshelf and a killer
balcony.
Elysium Caf is at 22 Dang Thi
Nhu, Q1, HCMC facebook.com/
elysiumcafevn
EDEN COFFEE HOUSE

Last month introduced a new
player onto the District 7 goodcoffee scene Eden Coffee
House. And theyre stacking
the deck, with Illy beans and a
promise that they wont screw
up your latt. They also believe
in brunch, offering Bloody
Marys alongside beef and
salsa verde salads and mango,

passion fruit and honeyed
ricotta sweet crepes. To complete
the relaxation trifecta, try one
of their signature espresso
martinis.
Eden Coffee House is at R3-85
Khu Pho, Phu My Hung, Q7,
HCMC facebook.com/edenq7
overscene ho chi minh
standpoint theories
Emily Navarras spectacular featured Le
Cat Trong Ly, Space Panther and more
live visuals than you could shake a stick
at
king of the bay
Photos supplied by Ahi Vietnam

In Mui Ne the stand-up paddle
boards were out, making the most of
the light ocean breeze
If you have a noteworthy event which you think

would fit into our coverage, please email
news@wordvietnam.com and we'll take a look
mac demarco

The internets favourite slacker made a
live appearance at Cargo, playing 10-15
minutes of Metallicas Enter Sandman
somewhere in there
van der beeks

v. orangutan

Two of Saigons most danceable bands
staged a throwdown at Cube, and the
winner was all of us
bonjour
Photos by Owen Salisbury

The French community came out for a
celebration of the French way of life at
23/9 Park
to do list
03
hanoi
TUESDAY
03,10,17,21
FEB.
CAM & MIKE
ASIAN YOUTH JAZZ ORCHESTRA

Sponsored by The Japan Foundation, six
Japanese musicians are holding a jazz
concert on Tuesday Feb. 3 at The Youth
Theatre.
With the intention of creating the Asian
Youth Jazz Orchestra, which will start
operating from Autumn 2015, the six
musicians piano, saxophone, 2 trombones,
electric bass and drums will be playing
the type of jazz that they want to recreate
with young musicians from ASEAN. Their
set will not only include a selection of wellknown tunes, but their own original works.
From the ensuing auditions, 16 ASEAN
musicians will be selected. After spending
time on a training camp in Japan this
summer, they will travel and perform in
both Japan and around ASEAN.
The concert kicks off at 8pm on Feb. 3 at
the Youth Theatre, 11 Ngo Thi Nham, Hai Ba
Trung, Hanoi. Tickets are available from the
Japan Foundation, 27 Quang Trung, Hoan Kiem,
Hanoi from 2pm on Tuesday Jan. 27
04
WEDNESDAY
WRITERS IMMERSION AND

CULTURAL EXCHANGE
From 6.30pm on Feb. 4, hear this
group of distinguished writers
from Australia, Vietnam and the
Philippines read from their critically
acclaimed work that combines
personal and poetic observations of
the world around us.
The event is part of the WrICE
(Writers Immersion and Cultural
Exchange) programme, connecting
writers from around the Asia-Pacific
and will take place at Manzi Art
Space (14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh,
Hanoi).
Due to limited seating, spots must be
organised through alison.barker@rmit.
edu.au before Feb 2. Entrance is free
Throughout February Rockstore continues

its regular weekly events Think 124 on
Wednesdays, Old Boys Blues Band on
Thursdays and the Flashback Rock Band on
Sunday. But the pick is the Tuesday night
acoustic set with Australian duo Cam and
Mike.
Playing pop, rock, blues and soul from
the 1960s all the way through to the modern
day, the Australian duo have one of those
track records that can only be bought with
time. Cam has been playing guitar for
more than 20 years and is an established
singer/songwriter, while Mike has been a
percussionist and vocalist for more years
than he cares to admit.
Rockstore is at 61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem,
Hanoi. Entrance is free
06-08
07
FEB.
SATURDAY
TET MARKET AT
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF
VIETNAM
In honour of the Lunar New Year, the
International School of Vietnam will be
hosting its own Tet Market at its main
campus on Feb. 7, from 11am to 3pm.
The market will feature stalls stocking
traditional Tet treats, decorations and
seasonal plants to help you ring in the
Year of the Goat. Activities will include
traditional games such as dragon
dancing, calligraphy handwriting and
a cooking class on how to prepare the
perfect New Years Eve feast.
The International School of Vietnam is
at 6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai, Dai Kim Urban
Area, Hoang Mai, Hanoi
TET MARKET AT THE METROPOLE

The tradition continues with the Sofitel
Legend Metropole Hanoi once again
holding its annual Tet bazaar. The market
will feature traditional bamboo stalls
selling food, fresh produce, handicrafts
and colourful paper paintings from nearby
Dong Ho village.
Activities such as a banh chung making
contest, a spring roll contest and a
traditional drawing competition will also
take place, with visitors able to recharge
with a warm bowl of pho while having
their portrait painted by a Vietnamese
artist.
The Metropole Tet market will be run from
Feb. 6 to Feb. 8 from 4pm to 8pm each day. The
Sofitel Metropole is at 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan
Kiem, Hanoi
07
SATURDAY
BIS TET FAIR

To kick off the festive period
with an abundance of colour
and excitement, the British
International School (BIS) will be
holding a Tet Fair on Saturday
Feb. 7.
With the aim of educating
students and all-comers about
Vietnamese traditional values,
culture and customs, the fair will
include handicraft workshops,
games, food stalls and costumes.
The event will be held on
school campus where students,
families and friends can have an

enjoyable and fun time together.
Running from 10am to 2pm,
the fair is an opportunity to see
some of the classical activities
of a bygone era, to observe the
skills of to he or the elegant
curves of Vietnamese calligraphy
as well as the comic charm of
water puppetry.
BIS is at Hoa Lan Road,
Vinhomes Riverside, Long Bien,
Hanoi. For more information click
on bishanoi.com
IF YOURE LOOKING FOR A COPY OF

WORD IN HANOI, THESE FRIENDLY NEIGHBOURHOOD DISTRIBUTION CENTRES
SHOULD BE ABLE TO HELP:
HOAN KIEM
EXPERIMENTAL MUSIC CONCERT

On Saturday Feb. 7, Goethe
Institut will be holding a concert
with German musician Burkhard
Beins and members of the
Hanoi-based experimental music
collective, DomDom.
Described by The Wire as
one of the most distinctive
percussionists in European free
music, Berlin-based Burkhard
Beins is a composer/performer
known for his definitive use of
percussion in combination with
selected sound objects. Also
working with live electronics and
analogue synthesizers, he gives

lectures and workshops and has
published several articles on
music theory. He will be running
workshops in cooperation with
DomDom from Feb. 2 to Feb. 6.
Expect this to be one of
the more unusual musical
experiences youll encounter in
the capital.
Goethe Institut is at 56-58
Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh, Hanoi.
The show starts at 8pm. For more
information and to find out about
ticketing, click on goethe.de/vietnam
1911
Angelina's
Cheeky Quarter
Ciao Caf
El Gaucho
Fat Cat
Golden Silk
Hair of the dog
Hanoi Backpackers Hotel
Hanoi Social Club
Hilton Ha Noi Opera
Hotel de l'Opera Ha Noi
Japan Foundation
Le Pub
L'Espace
Litte Ha Noi
Metropole Hotel
PuKu
Rockstore
Tamarind
The KaFe
HO TAY
88 Lounge
ACET
Bookworm Too
Daluva
Dons Tay Ho
El Gaucho
Joma
KOTO
Kub Cafe
Language Link
Peace Dental Clinic
RMIT
S. Honore
Singapore International School
Sofitel Plaza
Tay Tap
The Cart
The Hanoi Bicycle Collective
The Republic
UNIS
Vietclimb Gym
Vip Bikes
West Coast
Work Room Four
Zenith Yoga
HAI BA TRUNG
Apollo
Cama ATK
Pots n Pans
BA DINH
Bookworm
Family Medical Practice
Foodshop 45
Hanoi Cooking Centre
Manzi Art Space
CAU GIAY
Concordia International School
Crowne Plaza
JW Marriott
If you are interested in your business receiving copies of Word Vietnam to distribute to your
customers, please email trinh@wordvietnam.com (Ho Chi Minh City) or
giang@wordvietnam.com (Hanoi). For a small fee, we also offer a home delivery service direct
to your door. Simply email subscriptions@wordvietnam.com
to do list
07
hanoi
FROM FEB.
14&28
FEB.
THE LIFE OF TET

Running from Feb. 7 until Mar. 7, Art Vietnam
Gallery will ring in the Lunar New Year with
a playful exhibition featuring eclectic Hanoian
artists, Nguyen Quang Thang and Lolo Zazar.
A member of the avantgarde Gang of Five
group, Thang will showcase a traditional
perspective on the Tet holiday, with a hoang phi
(horizontal frieze) and two cau doi (columns
of parallel sentences) depicting the 12 zodiac
signs in the centuries-old Nom language.
In contrast, Lolo Zazar, an artist and
animation film maker from France, will present
a modern depiction of the zodiac with a playful
photo montage assembled into 3D creatures.
Art Vietnam is at 24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem,
Hanoi
10&11
HOLY CHIC!
Pharaohs Upper in the Lotte Center in
collaboration with Uber and Nature Republic
Cosmetics will be running a new ladies night
on Saturday Feb. 14 and two weeks later on
Feb. 28.
Ladies will drink free from 10pm to
midnight from a select cocktail menu (3 choices
available) while Uber will sponsor transport
home at the end of the evening for all new
users to a maximum value of VND200,000.

To make the affair even more attractive,
Nature Republic Cosmetics will hand out
gifts, samples and vouchers for all women
throughout the evening, while an Evian Spa
voucher will be awarded for the best female
dancer. Time to get shakin that booty!
Pharaohs Upper is on Floor 63 & 64 of the Lotte
Center, Dao Tan, Cong Vi, Ba Dinh, Hanoi
26
THURSDAY
FEB.
15
THE WINTER FOR LY
Acclaimed singer-songwriter, Le Cat Trong Ly,
will be performing her winter songs at Manzi
on Feb. 10 and Feb. 11, with accompaniment
by celloist Thanh Tu and a string quartet.
The leading figure of contemporary
folk music in Vietnam, Ly mixes western
influences with more traditional Vietnamese
sounds. With her distinctive music and lyrics,
the Danang-born musician is the modern-day
incarnation of Trinh Cong Son, the composer
often referred to as the Bob Dylan of Vietnam.
To reserve a seat, call Manzis hotline before Feb.
5 on 0947 935042 or email manzihanoi@gmail.
com. Manzi Art Space is at 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba
Dinh, Hanoi
SUNDAY
TET CELEBRATIONS AT BOOKWORM

Bookworm and the Hanoi Cooking Centre
will host an afternoon of traditional music,
calligraphy and lunar horoscope painting
in honour of the Tet holiday on Sunday
Feb. 15.
Tasty treats will also be hand, with banh
chung traditional Tet cake classes
taught by a village expert, free Tet mulled
wine, traditional rice wine and cookies.
Free to he sculptures and animal balloons
will also be on hand, as well as larger than
life discounts on all Bookworm books.
Bookworm and HCC are at 44 Chau Long,
Ba Dinh, Hanoi
THISQUIETARMY
CAMA ATK will host Moon Gramophones
night of experimental music, thisquietarmy,
on Thursday Feb. 26.
Featuring the experimental guitar-based
project of Montreal-based Eric Quach, the
show will revolve around improvised drone
music fused with the textural and structural
elements of post-punk, shoegaze, krautrock,
post-rock, black metal and doom metal.
Described as dark, melodic, expansive and
engaging, Quachs performances are mostly
presented as a real-time score to hypnotic
ethereal visuals, which he creates himself for
each performance.
CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba
Trung. Doors are at 8pm. Entrance TBA
27
FRIDAY
THROUGH THE WINDOW

LEspace will be hosting the work
of artist Duong Thuy Duong from
Friday Feb. 27 through to Mar. 21.
Entitled Through the Window,
Duong describes her work as what
she sees through her window after
the kids go to school.
I stay at home alone with a
cup of hot coffee in hand, listening
to Rachmaninoff and looking out
the window. It is a large window
overlooking lush vegetation, the
bright sun of summer, the leaves fall
in autumn, the gray and gloomy sky
winter days and on the fragile and
icy space the arrival of spring.
I like to stay and think like
this. Nothing important, just the
reflections of an ordinary person, an

ordinary woman, an ordinary mother.
The coffee is cold, the music has
stopped, four seasons pass, and ... I
paint...
The opening will be held at
6pm on the night of Feb. 27.
LEspace is at 24 Trang Tien,
Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
ALL MONTH
MY PLEASURE
Cuci Fine Art will be hosting
the exhibition, My Pleasure, all
throughout February.
Featuring the works of five
artists Quach Bac, Ha Manh
Chien, Le Bao Ngoc, Nguyen
Thi Kim Nga, and Pham Ngoc
Ha Ninh all of whom work
in a range of mediums, the
purpose of the showcase is to
convey a message of true and

false values in individual and
community lives.
This is the first collaboration
between Cuci Fine Art and the
five artists. All share common
concerns about a range of issues
in contemporary society.
Cuci Fine Art is located at 22A
Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
Once reserved exclusively for royalty,

tranquil Westlake now boasts
Hanois Gold-Standard serviced residences.
Minutes from the city with unobstructed
lake views, Fraser Suites Hanoi offers
you the award-winning service even
ancient kings would envy.
MANZI ART CALL

Young Vietnamese artists, Manzi
wants you!
One of Hanois premiere art
spaces is seeking proposals for
solo or group exhibitions, from
now through Mar. 31. There arent
a ton of limits dont propose
previously exhibited work, dont
be over 40, dont be boring
which you should already know.
As a driver of independent art
here, Manzi encourages diversity,
creativity and co-creation in arts
and culture.
Successful applicants will get
a chance to work with Manzis
team to further develop and
realise their proposals before
their exhibitions, which will take
THE FRASER COLLECTION
place this year at Manzi.

Manzi will also provide
successful applicants with an
exhibition venue, all PR involved
and some production money.
For more info or to submit,
contact manzihanoi@gmail.com, or
just stop by 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba
Dinh, Hanoi
BAHRAIN BANGALORE BANGKOK BEIJING BUDAPEST

CHENGDU DOHA DUBAI EDINBURGH GLASGOW
GUANGZHOU GURGAON HANOI HO CHI MINH CITY
HONG KONG ISTANBUL JAKARTA KUALA LUMPUR
LONDON MANILA MELBOURNE NANJING NEW DELHI
OSAKA PARIS PERTH SEOUL SHANGHAI
SHENZHEN SINGAPORE SUZHOU SYDNEY TIANJIN
WUHAN WUXI CHENNAI (2014) AL KHOBAR (2015)
FRANKFURT (2015) RIYADH (2014)
just in
hanoi
CREPES ON THE GO
Street food or at least street food that is
anything from hot dogs to burritos to crepes
is hugely popular in the West. Now the
well-known French crepe outlet, Crepe
House, has brought this concept to Hanoi.
With a crepe cart stationed outside
Indochina Plaza (241 Xuan Thuy, Cau Giay,
Hanoi) from mid-January, hungry diners
have been able to buy these French-style
pancakes on the move.
KAFE BOX
From one to two and now to three, the KAfe
empire increases its size again this month with
the opening of KAfe Box, a new takeawaystyle outlet on the fifth floor of Vincom Tower
(191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi).
Open daily from 9am to 10pm, the
concept of the KAfe Box is street food and
snacks in modern takeaway packaging.
Offering a wide range of food inspired from

global cuisines and modern urban flavours,
on the menu are The Street Box classics
like the mini banh bao and freshly handmade
sandwiches, or Oven To Box warm
oven-baked favourites like the vegetable
lasagna and baked pasta with chunky beef
Bolognese sauce.
OLEARYS
Hanois newest and largest sports bar,
OLearys, threw open its doors last month,
marking the occasion with a lavish grand
opening.
Located just two blocks down from Hoan
Kiem Lake on the bustling thoroughfare of
Ba Trieu, the Boston-inspired chain offers
comfy booths within view of carefully
positioned flat-screen TVs that allow you
to watch multiple sportscasts on different
screens, simultaneously. The dcor, heavily
inspired by the Boston peoples love of
sports, is also guaranteed to tug at the
heartstrings of hardcore sports fans, with
the Boston Red Sox logo adorning the
green walls in every room.

A long list of drinks, including an
impressive range of liqueurs, aperitifs
and long drinks can be sourced at bars on
each level, alongside a hearty selection
of American bar snacks, including
buffalo wings with blue cheese sauce
(VND155,000) and Jamaican jerk wings
(VND155,000).
With a vibrant atmosphere and a
comprehensive coverage of international
sports, OLearys is sure to be a hit with
locals and expats alike.
OLearys is at 38 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem,
Hanoi or online at olearys.vn
A NEW DESTINATION IN HOI AN

For those of you with a penchant for Hoi An
and in Hanoi there are lots of us who take
frequent trips down south to this UNESCOprotected town the recently opened Alma
Courtyard offers not just five-star resort
facilities, but all-inclusive spa treatment as
part of the deal.
Offering up a range of rooms from the
standard en-suites with balconies to the twofloor duplex units designed as townhousestyle rooms, the room rates include a daily
90-minute spa journey. Broken up into
a steam or sauna, a 50-minute massage
treatment, and gentle tai chi movement
session, or quiet relaxation in the silent
sanctuary, 40 treatment rooms are on hand
to look after the guests. The therapists are
all trained in-house and only use locally
produced spa products.
Alma Courtyard is at 326 Ly Thuong Kiet,
Hoi An, Quang Nam. For reservations email
reservation@almacourtyardhoian.com or click on
almacourtyardhoian.com
SOMERSET COMES TO
HAI PHONG
The well-known Somerset
serviced apartments, which are
managed by Ascott, have opened
their first residence in Hai Phong.
The 132-unit Somerset Central
TD Hai Phong City is located on
a prime urban area in the citys
new Central Business District and
becomes the first international
branded serviced residence in Hai
Phong.
With over 2,000 apartment
units in 13 properties across four
cities in the country Hanoi, Ho
Chi Minh City, Hai Phong and
Danang Ascott is the largest
serviced residence owner-operator
in Vietnam.
Somerset Hai Phong is at Tower A,
TD Plaza, Lot 20A, Le Hong Phong,
Ngo Quyen, Hai Phong. For more
information call (031) 367 0888 or
click on somerset.com
overscene hanoi
Sunday Jazz at
Tadioto
Photos byJulie Vola

One of Hanois classiest bars added to its
seamless chic with a Sunday jazz session.
So popular was the show that even the
odd celebrity or two turned up
Jazz and Thank You

Party
Photos provided by Sofitel Metropole

Hanois most classic hotel, the
Metropole, put on a thank you party
for its supporters, with jazz provided
by New York-based resident singer,
Kristen Evelyn Rossi
If you have a noteworthy event which you think

would fit into our coverage, please email
news@wordvietnam.com and we'll take a look
The Tiny Music Club

Tuesday nights at Hanoi Social Club
are gaining quite a following, thanks to
the regular acoustic music played out
on its top-floor terrace
clap! festival
Photos provided by LEspace

LEspace hosted a unique VietnameseFrench collaborative film festival
bringing together almost every film
medium there is
Insider
THE CARTOONIST // THE IDIOT'S GUIDE TO TET // BEER // MAKING THE METRO A SUCCESS // THE
FUTURE OF DOWNTOWN SAIGON // THE BUSINESSMEN OF BEER // THE ART OF AO DAI // BURGER
WARS // MYSTERY DINER HANOI // STREET SNACKER HANOI // MYSTERY DINER HCMC // STREET
SNACKER HCMC // FASHION // CRUISING // A DAY IN PENANG // IN SEARCH OF THE SUPER CAVE
PHOTO BY GLEN RILEY
insider
MANY FACES
NATIONAL
The
Cartoonist
A cartoonist and a teacher, But Chis raison detre is to
use the creation and appreciation of art as a way
to open up the mind. Words by Hoa Le.
Images provided by the artist
hen But Chi was a child, he

dreamt of a school where the
pupils were free to do anything
they liked. It was a school where
kids like him could hardly wait for the next
day to dawn so that they could go to study.
Just like the school that Mr. Kobayashi built
inside the five abandoned old-fashioned
railway cars Tomoe Gakuen school in his
favourite Japanese children book, Tottochan
The Little Girl at the Window.
Although that school didnt exist in his
childhood, its memory has followed But Chi
throughout his life, giving him inspiration
throughout his career. In November last
year, the 30-year-old cartoonist opened an
art school with a unique concept, a concept
aimed at encouraging students to learn
and practise drawing and other forms of
creativity. He named it Toa Tau or The
Railway Carriage in Vietnamese. He also
designed and painted the classrooms with
lively pictures and colourful windows, just
as what he had imagined the Tomoe Gakuen
school to have.
But instead of an elementary school like
in the story, But Chis school teaches many
forms of art to students both adults and
children, from drawing to photography,
dancing to playing musical instruments.
The most popular course at Toa Tau, and
also the one that But Chi started off with,
is the Drawing for Storytellers class. There
the students not only learn to improve their
drawing skills, but more importantly, they
are encouraged to express themselves, to tell
stories through their own drawings. Its not
about getting a good grade.
When you tell people to draw, the first
reaction of many people is Oh, I cant. I dont
have any talent. says Chi. But we believe
that everyone can and they have a lot of
potential inside themselves to do so. Its just
they were somehow hindered as they grew
up. We want to encourage people to get over
that fear and enjoy drawing.
Hue, Hanoi, Saigon and Beyond

But Chi, which means pencil in Vietnamese,
is Do Huu Chis pen name on his comics
and book illustrations. Born in Hue in 1984,
although neither of his parents worked in
the art industry, Chi loved drawing from

a young age. And like many children, he
started off by imitating and redrawing his
favourite cartoon characters.
In the 1980s and early 1990s, as Vietnam
moved into the early stages of Doi Moi, there
were not many comic options for But Chi
and other children, except for a few Japanese
manga series such as Doreamon, Dragon balls
and Black Jack.
When Chi was 18, he moved to Hanoi
to study architecture. He soon realised his
love and passion was for drawing, and in
particular cartoons. He began working parttime as an illustrator for several well-known
childrens and teenagers magazines, and for
a period wanted to quit his studies to follow
this passion. But he couldnt.
I faced very strong opposition from my
parents, he recalls. And in Vietnam at that
time, being a cartoonist couldnt bring a
stable income or a career.
He completed his studies.
Chasing the Dream

Chis love for comics never faded, and after
six years in Hanoi finishing his degree, he
moved to Saigon and started working fulltime for Nha Nam publishing house as an
art manager-cum-illustrator.
I always look for a change and try to
experience new things, he says. To me, its
not [important] what your job is, but what
youre interested in doing.
In 2011, he received a Fullbright

scholarship to study a Masters degree in
Georgia in the US, majoring in comics and
art. The opportunity brought him access to a
rich world of comics and cartoons.
Coming back to Vietnam in 2013, Chi
opened his first Drawing for Storytellers class
and quickly got positive feedback. He then
went a step further, opening Toa Tau.
It was a very simple [decision], he says.
I didnt have that kind of creative school
when I grew up. Now I wanted to start one
and let others to have such opportunities.
Not Just About Drawing

But Chi is full of energy. In the classroom, he
jumps up and down on his chair, and often runs
back and forth when explaining things to his
students. But in drawing, But Chi is different.
He loves metaphors and his comics often send
out messages that are inspired by philosophical
or literary ideas, all combined with his
observations on daily life. His comics are often
without speech bubbles and quite short, from
only eight to 20 pages. He also loves getting his
audience to listen to a pre-chosen piece of music
while reading his comics.
In the comic Sisyphus, inspired by the
same-titled Greek story, The Myth of Sisyphus,
But Chi creates a male character who gets on
his motorbike to go to work every day, from
morning to night. His routine is repeated
every day, but he has no idea of what he is
doing or who he is working for. The story is
the same as that of King Sisyphus, who as

punishment for his trickery was made to roll
a boulder to the top of a hill. But the boulder
would always fall down the hill, making him
perform the action again and again.
In a story called Ngo (translated as Myself
or Illuminating), he creates a young art
student it could be But Chi, himself, or a
friend and colleague.
The art student is forced to come to school
every day, but has no interest in the boring
classes. He only comes alive when he gets
out of the classroom and goes to a place
where he can draw whatever he likes.
Very often But Chi leaves his stories
with an open ending, for the audiences to
interpret themselves.
Art is Freedom
For But Chi, comics are art. They tell a story
through a chain of images. Its a whole world,
big enough to embrace almost any thought or
idea. It goes beyond entertainment.
But for his students at Toa Tau, But Chi wants
them to discover art or drawing in its most
simple form. It is a tool with which people can
tell their stories and express their emotion.
Art is meant to free people from worries,
to give people a balance, he says. Were
trying to release the fear in people, and for
many, it starts from the fear to draw.
Toa Tau is at 632 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh,
Ho Chi Minh City. To view some of But Chis
comics, visit behance.net/chimagine
We believe that everyone can [draw] and they have a lot of

potential inside themselves to do so. Its just they were
somehow hindered as they grew up. We want to encourage
people to get over that fear and enjoy drawing
(continued at behance.net/chimagine)
insider
INSIDER SPECIAL
NATIONAL
The Idiots Guide

to Tet
With the biggest festival of the Vietnamese year just around the
corner, Vu Ha Kim Vy gives some tips on a lucky New Year.
YOUR TET OPTIONS
Food
In the past, most markets and malls
closed for nearly a week during
Tet, and families used to mob them
beforehand to buy food for the
festive week ahead. For some reason,
the scene has gradually shifted. One
reason might be the profits during
Tet prices are always than at other
times during the year or maybe
people simply want to work and not
gain too much holiday weight. Now,
most of these shopping centres close
for just one or two days (normally
the first and second day of Tet,
which fall on Feb. 19 and Feb. 20 this
year).
In the process of writing this
article, most of the places I called
didnt have their final Tet schedules.
Maybe just like last year! is the
reply I got most often.
As far as restaurants, their
schedules mostly depend on their
owners vacation plans. Check in
advance.
Entertainment
One of the biggest questions expats
have is what to do for fun during Tet.
One sure-fire option is to head to the
backpackers area in Saigon or the
Old Quarter in Hanoi restaurants
and bars will be open as if there was
no such thing as Tet. Having a few
drinks or joining a darts game with
friends is one of the best ways to kill
time over Tet.
As Tet is traditionally a time to
watch Vietnamese comedy films,
most cinema complexes will be open

through Tet. Although these movies
usually have English subtitles,
there will also be Hollywood
movies playing. The list includes
The Wedding Ringer (playing Jan. 30
to Feb. 19), Jupiter Ascending (Feb.
6 to Feb. 19), The SpongeBob Movie:
Sponge Out of Water (Feb. 6 to Feb.
19), Kingsman: The Secret Service (Feb.
13 to Feb. 26) and Fifty Shades of Grey
(Feb. 13 to Feb. 26).
Amusement parks are another
good option. Most of their doors will
open through Tet... just beware of the
crowds during the third hang-out
day, Feb. 21.
Keeping Fit
For those who put keeping fit at the
top of their lists, 10 days without
exercise might seem unbearable. But
Tet is also a rare opportunity for the
types of outdoor exercise Vietnams
busy city streets dont normally
encourage. If you like running or
cycling outdoors, tie up those laces
few sidewalk vendors will block
your progress.
Yet, if the idea of lifting weights
and treadmill workouts still lingers
in your mind, swimming pools and
gyms in the five-star hotels are still
open, and will welcome you
though their fees are always higher
than at normal city gyms.
HOW TO AVOID THE CROWDS

Just like Christmas is a time for
going home and reuniting with
family in the west, Tet is the time for
Vietnamese people to gather. And

this makes for some crowded roads,
and unexpected situations.
Take the case of Ho Chi Minh
City. 30 percent of its official
population of eight million people
were born elsewhere, and most go
to their hometown for Tet. In Hanoi,
an even larger number of the citys
residents come from outside the
capital.
This means a Tet exodus to the
countryside back to the official
family home. And for those who
remain in town, they often stay
in their homes just relaxing, or
because of Tet taboos (they dont
want to catch a cold, or get any
kind of bad luck, as it reflects badly
on the year ahead). Over Tet, both
Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City turn
into ghost towns dont worry, not
literally!
Travelling in-country isnt a great
option for the claustrophobic. For
Tet travellers, the lack of buses,
trains and planes can be a big
and expensive problem. Some
book their tickets months before, or
end up waiting at the station to get
a last-minute fare at a high price.
But travelling to a foreign country
is a great option. For the last
couple Tets, my uncles family have
spent their holiday in countries in
Southeast Asia that dont celebrate
the Lunar New Year. Only six
countries China, Mongolia, the
Republic of Korea, North Korea,
Singapore and Vietnam are
preparing for these special days.
TET DISHES
The first Tet meal is usually abundant with dishes
combining yin and yang the complementary
forces of light and darkness in everything
aiming to bring luck, prosperity and good health
to the family in the next year. The following are the
most common dishes:
Banh Chung
A square, leaf-wrapped rice cake, its made from
glutinous rice, mung beans, pork and other
ingredients. Its origin is found in the legend
of Lang Lieu, a son of the last king of the Sixth
Hung Dynasty. He became his fathers successor
thanks to his creations of banh chung and banh day,
symbolising earth and sky.
Considered an essential element of the Tet family
altar, the making and eating of banh chung during
this time is a widely-observed tradition. Its
especially prevalent in northern Vietnam.
Banh Tet
A savoury and sweet cake made with glutinous
rice, rolled in a banana leaf into a thick, cylindrical
shape, filled with mung bean and/or pork,
then boiled. After cooking, the banana leaf is
removed, and the cake is sliced into wheel-shaped
servings. It demonstrates the importance of rice in
Vietnamese culture as well as its historical value. It
originated in southern Vietnam.
Banh To
Originally from Quang Nam think Hoi An it
is made from glutinous rice and sugar, wrapped in
a banana leaf, then steamed. The word to (origin
or root) honours ones ancestors.
Thit Kho Trung

A southern dish made from sauted pork and eggs.
Back in the days when everything closed for Tet,
it was one of the best ways to store cooked food.
Now it is made in smaller portions, and served at
one or two meals.
Thit Dong
To make thit dong, mix sauted pork or chicken,
the meats skin, mushrooms and other ingredients,
then cool it. This jelly dish started in the north as
a way to store food for Tet, but now its popular in
many regions. While people from the south usually
use fridges to cool the mixture, people from the
north just lean on the cold winter temperatures.
Tom Kho Cu Kieu

A simple and quick dish containing dried shrimps
and pickled cu kieu a member of the shallots
family. It is one of the Tet favourites of Vietnamese
drunkards.
Cha / Gio
Cha (Southern Vietnam) or gio (Northern Vietnam)
are popular forms of processed meat, sometimes
translated as Vietnamese sausage or meat roll.
There are many variations including cha bo or gio bo
(beef roll), cha lua or gio lua (pork roll) or cha ca
(fish roll). They are often served alongside beer.
Thit Dong
THE FIVE FRUITS

The five fruit tray is usually displayed on
the family altar or living room table during
Tet. Through their colours and names, they
express the familys wishes.
Different regions have different
arrangements. In the north, they include
chuoi (banana), buoi (grapefruit), dao (peach),
hong (persimmon) and quyt (mandarin)
although sometimes ot (chilli), quat
(kumquat) or le (pear) are substituted.
Northerners dont tend to care that much, as
long as the fruits have nice, bright colours.
Meanwhile, the trays in the south must
have certain fruits, including mang cau
(soursop), dua (coconut), du du (papaya),
xoai (mango) and sung (fig) forming the
sentence Cau sung (tuc) vua du xai a wish
for prosperity. Sometimes, a pair of thom or
dua (pineapples) will be added. Southerners
try to avoid fruits which have names that
remind them of bad things, like chuoi, which
has a similar pronunciation to chui (failure);
cam (orange), understood as suffering; or
luu (pomegranate), which calls to mind a
grenade. Fruits with bitter and pungent
tastes are also out.
With the idea that the tray is expressing
the owners wishes through fruit names,
younger southerners have jokingly created
some alternative versions. One of the most
popular ones is Cau xai mut chi a wish
to have an endless source of money, based
on soursop, mango, mut (plastic foam) and
chi (thread). Another jokey version is Cau
vu vua du xai a wish to have a big enough
pair of breasts.
While there is no proof the owner will
get what they wish for, for a generation the
mischievous young people of the south have
wanted to see them try.
Dua
Sung
Xoai
Du Du
Mang Cau
TET TABOOS
There are many bad luck taboos surrounding
Tet, and people still take them seriously. Here
are seven things to avoid doing on the first
day of the Lunar New Year, falling on Feb. 19
this year.
Dont let abandoned cats into

the house. The sound of a cats meow in
Vietnamese is meo meo which has the same

sound as ngheo ngheo (poor). Its believed
that if you let a stray cat into your house on
the first day of Tet, your family will be poor
through the year.
Avoid borrowing money. It is said: If

you start the year with someone elses money,
all year youll need loans; if you start the year
lending money, all year you will suffer losses.
Avoid breaking furniture and other
household items. All year round broken
furniture is considered unlucky. However, in

todays society, when children accidentally
break furniture it will not matter as long as
an elder quickly says: A New Year has come,
a New Year comes (for the broken object); no

mishap in every New Year. That changes the
bad luck to good luck.
Do not sweep or take out garbage.

Dont sweep the house or take out the
garbage on New Years Day you might
accidentally sweep or dump out all the good
luck from the house.
Dont ask others to reach into your

pocket. During the New Year, dont ask
people to take things from your pocket
otherwise, all year people will be reaching
into your pocket.
Dont collect debts. During Tet, it is
considered bad luck to collect debts. And

dont allow others to collect debts from you
either!
Avoid Doing Laundry. There is a water

god, and the water gods birthday is two
days after Tet begins. Give him a break
during Tet.
Your First Guest

Some families, especially when
they have a business at home,
specify the first person to enter their
house on the first day. This persons
zodiac animal works with the animal
sign of the forthcoming year. People
believe some signs will bring wealth
and prosperity to the family and
business, while some will give bad
luck.
Because 2015 is the Year of
the Goat, people who were born
in 1953, 1954, 1955, 1962, 1963,
1966, 1967, 1970, 1975 and 1983
are believed to be luck givers if
theyre the first people to enter your
house on the first day of Tet.
TET GREETINGS
As a part of the tradition, Tet is often
accompanied by greetings, referred to
as chuc tet in Vietnamese usually
auspicious words, phrases or sayings.
These phrases are printed in gold letters
on the red lucky money envelopes,
another way of expressing New Years
wishes.
The sayings may be used when visiting
relatives and other families, or before
children receive their red envelopes.
Children and their parents can also pray
in pagodas or churches, in hopes of
getting blessings for the year to come.
Traditional Greetings
Chc Mng Nm Mi Happy New Year

Vn S Nh May all your wishes be
fulfilled
Sc Khe Di Do May you have plenty
of health
Lm n Tn Ti May your business
prosper
Tin V Nh Nc May money flow in
like water
Sng Lu Trm Tui May you live to 100
years
Chc Gia nh Hnh Phc v Nhiu May
Mn May your family have happiness
and good luck
Non-Traditional Greetings
Ti chc bn bn bu trong cng vic, vui v

trong cuc sng, may mn trong nh bc,
in cung trong tnh yu, tin y ti, khe
trn ging, khng bao gi bit bun, lun
ci h h... mua v kh, cp ngn hng, bt
chuyn bay, ti bn ti v... cho ti tin I
wish you to be busy in work, happy in
life, lucky in gambling, crazy and mad in
love, strong in bed, have money in your
pocket, never be sad, always have fun
buy a gun, rob the bank, take a plane, fly
to me and give me money
Mt nm ong y hnh phc, 12 thng di
vui v, 52 tun an vui, 365 ngy thnh cng,
8,760 gi sc khe, 52,600 pht may mn,
3,153,600 giy th v May you have one
year of happiness, 12 months of fun, 52
weeks of peace, 365 days of success, 8,760
hours of good health, 52,600 minutes of
luck and 3,153,600 seconds of joy
Kho hn L c, mnh hn George W. Bush,
giu hn Bill Gates, quyn r hn Don Juan,
b mt hn Bin Laden v may mn hn Xun
tc May you be healthier than Ly
Duc, stronger than George W. Bush, richer
than Bill Gates, more seductive than Don
Juan, more mysterious than Bin Laden
and luckier than Red Hair Xuan
Understanding
Lucky Money
Defined in the Vietnamese dictionary,
li xi (lucky money) is money given
to children to celebrate the year to
come. This money is placed in red
envelopes and mostly given during
the first three days of Tet, although
some families give it out on the last
day. It is seen as a wish for the
recipients to have a year filled with
luck and prosperity.
Chinese-Vietnamese families still
maintain a tradition in which younger
generations give li xi to their parents
or grandparents. In other families,
anyone who is over 18 and has a
job wont accept money from their
elders. It all comes down to the
familys tradition.
In my family, my parents give li xi
to every family member, no matter
how well off they are. We give li xi
to our friends children when they
visit during Tet, and vice versa. The
significance is not in how much we
give, but in how much we care. Its a
wish for great health and success in
study in the next year.
There is no limit to the amount of li
xi it can range from VND10,000 to
more than VND500,000, depending
on how close you are to the family.
Its influenced by your financial
ability, as well as the scale of your
business. If you are in business with
the recipients parents, the li xi you
give should be quite generous.
Some prefer to give (and receive)
US$2 notes. Many Vietnamese save
the note, as they believe that the
US$2 notes are more rare than other
notes. When one receives a US$2
note with a nice serial number, its
taken as very lucky.
cover story
How Beer Saved

Civilisation
ou might remember catchy

headlines like this making their
way around the blogosphere
a few years back. Premised on
evidence that beer was created before
bread, it suggested that early man needed
a psychoactive curveball to get away
from that survival instinct. It led to the
unproductive things we all love, like talking
late into the night, laughing for no good
reason, getting away from group-think all

the things we still look to beer for today.
And as beer in Vietnam has exploded in
popularity consumption has increased
nearly 300 percent countrywide in the past
10 years whats available has become
increasingly complex and varied. But the
basic things that beer gives us have been
here all along.
Over the next 20-or-so pages we look
at Vietnams beer scene in advance of

the biggest beer-drinking occasion of the
calendar year Tet. Its an exciting time
in Vietnams beer history, with more tastes
being represented, and more seeming
possible every day.
Its time for beer to once again do what
beer does best break up the boredom, and
give us all an outlet for toasting the finer
things in life.
A Brief History
of Bia Hoi
Considered the ultimate peoples beer, bia hoi started off
as a concession to the shortages created by war. Hoa Le
talks to writer Nguyen Ngoc Tien, author of the book
Going Across Hanoi, to trace the roots of Vietnams
best-known tipple. Photos by Glen Riley
ust like motorbikes, skinny

buildings and street food, bia hoi
has become an essential part of
life in Vietnam. Unpasteurised,
unpreserved and served cold straight
from the keg, it is consumed by everyone
from Vietnams intelligentsia to its hardworking street vendors.
Yet bia hoi is often thought of as the drink
of Hanoi. This is partly because the capital
was the location of the first bia hoi joint, but
also because of its popularity. In Hanoi, bia
hoi joints are everywhere.
For writer and journalist Nguyen Ngoc
Tien, the light yellow brew is a well-known
acquaintance, one that he has known since
his childhood in the 1960s when his father
brought him along to bia hoi joints to meet
friends after work.
As a young adult, Tien would also hang
out in bia hois with his writer friends. He
has such a love for the cultural aspect of this

brew that hes devoted a section to beer in
his book Going Across Hanoi.
From Rice Wine to Bia Hoi
The Vietnamese domestic beer culture

stretches back to the 1890s, when the
Hommel Brewery now state-run Hanoi
Beverage Company (Habeco) was
founded by the French. For a long time, the
factory on Hoang Hoa Tham was the only
place that sold beer in Hanoi although,
in the early years, it mostly served French
officials.
Before beer came to Vietnam, people
mostly drank rice wine. And when rice
became expensive, they made wine from
sweet potatoes. Indeed, for most of the 20th
century, very few locals drank beer. People
thought it was overly bitter. Some even
claimed it had an odor like urine.
However, things started changing in early

1960s. The late historian, Dao Hung, once
said of that period: During the American
war, to ensure that the rice production was
enough for everyone, rice wine (ruou) was
banned food could no longer be wasted
on creating an alcoholic drink.
The loss of ruou, however, led to the rise in
popularity of beer. Humans, it seems, need
to drink.
During that time, Habeco started
producing high-quality beer and even
exported their products to sell in South
Vietnam. President Ho Chi Minh also urged
the company to produce beer for export
during his visit to the company.
That was also the time when bia hoi was
born primarily to serve at a lower price to
common people.
The reason for its appearance was rather
simple, says Tien. During the war, there
[a toy model of the heads used in lion

dances] for children to play with during the
Full Moon Festival, writes Tien. But they
had so many left unsold that they teamed up
with the Nguyen Bieu beer joint to get rid
of the extra lions heads by selling them to
people who bought beer. Four glasses of beer
came with a small lions head; six glasses of
beer came with a big one The beer joint
became just like a toy manufacturer, packed
with lions heads.
At the time, there werent a great variety
of beer snacks, but what was available was
quite unique. Peanuts, papaya salad, fried
tofu with shrimp paste, boiled snails all
were popular complements. Most of the
snacks were sold by hawkers or street
vendors nearby.
During this period, dog meat started to
become popular in the bia hoi joints. Tien
remembers that, during his student life,
he often rode buses with dog meat dealers
coming into Hanoi from the suburbs.
They laid the dog meat all over the
floor on the bus, he recalls. When the bus
dropped them on Phan Chu Trinh, where
they had already parked their bikes, the dog
meat was taken out and delivered to stores
around the city, many of which were bia hoi
vendors.
The glasses used for bia hoi also have a
story. At first the beer was served in a 500ml
ridged glass made from the shards of
other broken glasses, they were often light
green or white, with bubbles visible through
the glass layer. When glass was difficult
to produce due to the war, big ceramic
containers were used instead. They were so
thick and heavy that they were called coc vai
heavy glasses.
In 1971, glasses were reintroduced, but
this time they were smaller, holding about
300ml of beer. The word coc vai, however, has
remained.
Today, restaurants like Backyard Bia Hoi
(a trendy spot on Quang Khanh, Tay Ho,
Hanoi) use coc vai to serve bia hoi a nice
little touch that harkens back to the Subsidy
Era.
was a shortage of material to make glass
bottles. The beer companies are located in
Hanoi. So they started producing bia hoi, a
drink they could serve right out of the bom
[keg]. This reduced expenses and the taste
was also fantastic.
The bia hoi from Habeco continued to
ferment in those boms as they were delivered
to outdoor outlets across the city. These
establishments soon became magnets for city
dwellers.
According to Tien, in those early days the
flavour of the fresh beer coming out of the
factory was just so tasty and special. He also
remembers the white foam, the froth that
would stick to the glass until the last drop
was consumed.
Queues, Glasses and Lion Heads
In the 1960s, most people who drank beer

were middle-aged men younger people
didnt have much money. The queues at

the mau dich the state-run stores and
restaurants during the Subsidy Era were
always long. People had to shout to get
attention, but it could still take an hour or
so to get just one glass of beer. It wasnt rare
to hear barmaids yelling, Stay quiet! If you
dont, I wont serve you.
The bia hoi joints on Co Tan (now Trang
Tien), Nguyen Bieu, Cau Giay, Thuy Ta
(on Hoan Kiem Lake), Mo, Vong and Hang
Bai were always crowded. As the demand
became greater, shops made their own rules
for bia drinkers which customers always
followed. In the 1970s, says Tien, some shops
didnt sell beer by itself, but instead sold
it together with goods left in stock such as
peanuts, raw vegetables and even toys for
children.
In October 1974, Quan Thanh
Department Store was selling lions heads
Bia Hoi Today
Although bia hoi can be found all over

Vietnam, it remains very much a part of the
unique character of Hanoi. Shops are open
in every neighbourhood, and young people
come to the Old Quarter to meet friends over
a few glasses of beer.
Tien, however, rarely drinks bia hoi
anymore. He thinks the beer has lost its
original taste because many joints have
mixed it with low quality beer or poor homebrewed versions.
The beer is now the same everywhere,
he says. It doesnt have the same essence
any more. Its just cold and fermented, thats
all.
To him, the best atmosphere for drinking
bia hoi was in the past. It was a time where
people drank slowly and quietly you
seldom saw any drunk people.
We didnt have enough beer to drink, let
alone enough to get drunk.
The Beers
OF
Vietnam
The variety of local and

regional beers in Vietnam
can be surprising to many
first-time visitors. Hoa Le
took a culinary drinking
tour around Vietnam,
where it seems that every
city has a beer named in
its honour
BIA HANOI
Hanoi and the north

Bia Hanoi is produced by Habeco, one of the
oldest breweries in the country it was predated
by a French brewery on the same site in Hanoi.
Pale straw in colour, clear and mild tasting, this
American-adjunct lager isnt just omnipresent in
Hanoi, but also in most of the north even the
mountainous areas of Sapa and Ha Giang.
Hoang Sa
SAIGON SPECIAL
Ho Chi Minh City and national

Saigon Special is one of the most ubiquitous
beer brands in Vietnam. Its brewery, Sabeco, also
produces Saigon Lager and Saigon Export
known to locals as Saigon Green and Saigon Red.
333 PREMIUM EXPORT BEER
Ho Chi Minh City and national
Originally known as Beer 33 adopting the extra

digit in 1975 this ubiquitous lager has been
around since 1893. 333 is available throughout the
country, including in Hanoi.
Truong Sa
TRUC BACH BEER
Hanoi
Also a product of the Habeco, the first bottle of Truc Bach Beer was
produced back in 1958. Named after Truc Bach Lake in Hanoi, many
locals say they prefer it to Bia Hanoi fans of its light, sweet taste even
say it could be the best lager in Vietnam.
HALIDA
Hanoi and national

This thick brown bottle with an elephant on the label is from Hanois
Southeast Asia Brewery. It has a clean aroma with a bit of citrus scent.
The brew is very popular among Hanoians, and is now starting to make
inroads outside the capital.
VIDA
Nghe An and North Central Vietnam

Vida is the pride of Vinh City and Nghe An citizens. You wont see a
lot of this beer outside of Nghe An and its surrounding provinces, but
you will hear a lot about them if youre interested in local football.
They are a major sponsor of the V-League football team, Song Lam
Nghe An, and theres even a football tourney named after them, called
the Vida Beer Cup.
HUDA
Hue and Central Vietnam

Huda is the abbreviation of Hue and Denmark (Dan Mach in Vietnamese)
its a joint venture between Vietnamese and Danish partners. Huda beer is very
popular in many cities in Central Vietnam including Danang, Hoi An and of
course the old capital of Hue.
DUNG QUAT
Quang Ngai
Located in the area near the countrys biggest oil refinery, Dung Quat, the Dung Quat
Brewery made the first Czech technology-assisted bottle of Dung Quat beer in 1995. It has
quickly become a favourite of people in Quang Ngai Province and not just the workers
from the refinery.
LOWEN PILS
Qui Nhon / Binh Dinh

This full-bodied pilsner can hardly be seen outside of Binh Dinh Province.
Available from 2000, this 5 percent brew is slightly heavier than the other brand
Qui Nhon Brewery makes, and is often considered to have a better taste too.
BIA CAN THO
Can Tho and the Mekong Delta

Hardly known outside of the Mekong Delta area, Bia Can Tho is adored by
locals there. Now, however, its facing strong competition from the variety of
brews produced by Sabeco.
The Belgians are Coming
Belgium is not just famous for its beer and chocolate, its also the place where the Smurfs came from
Belgian beer has a worldwide reputation that precedes it. Now it is coming
to Vietnam en masse. Niko Savvas speaks to two citizens
of this small Benelux nation to get some juice
uick, think of three facts about

Belgium.
Finished? You probably said
that its a small country in Europe
(correct!) and then sort of trailed off dumbly
as a thin trickle of saliva ran down your
attractively cleft chin. Its not your fault.
Little is known about this quaint and
reclusive nation except that it has a waffle
named after it. There is a Belgium-sized gap
in most peoples memories a gap that may
soon be closed forever, for one main reason.
Belgium is getting famous for its beer.
Even in Vietnam.
What Exactly is a Belgium?
Kris Goetghebeur, a longtime veteran of

the food and beverage industries (and
professional Belgian beer guy), admits that
his home country lacks the Q rating of its
sexier European neighbors.
Not many people have heard [of]
Belgium, even [with] Brussels being the
capital of Europe, he says via email. But the
country has much on which to pride itself.
Besides beer, he says that Belgium is bestknown for its chocolate, which he believes
outclass[es] the Swiss. There are certainly
worse things to be famous for than chocolate
and beer.
Jan Segers, a member of the Belgian
Chamber of Commerce in Saigon, echoes
his countryman. He describes Belgium as
the centre of Europe and Brussels as the
capital of the EU European market. He
too mentions chocolate and beer as Belgiums
chief exports. He also says that Belgium is
famous for its diamonds, which begs the
question: how does a country that produces
top-quality jewellery, chocolate and beer
manage to remain anonymous?
The simple answer is that it doesnt.
Belgium is gaining renown in Vietnam
as an example of how to live the good
life. People with money to spend want to
appear sophisticated. The quality of Belgian
products holds obvious appeal, but so does
the gregariousness of Belgiums cultural
ambassadors in the country. As Goetghebeur
says, Explaining to Vietnamese citizens that
Belgiums two main products are beer and
chocolate also makes it more easy to explain
[my] Buddha body size.
Who wouldnt want to have a beer with a
guy like that?
Whats on Tap?
The first Belgian Beer Festival in Vietnam

was held last year in Hanoi. In April, another
festival will be held in Saigon. Hoegaarden
went on tap last month. Stella Artois wont be
far behind. There will at last be a respite from
Tiger draught for thirsty beer enthusiasts.

Already, there are over thirty Belgian beers
available by the bottle in places like The
Warehouse, one of Vietnams premier wine
distributors. Yet Belgian beers are no longer
limited to strictly upscale establishments
(and the accompanying price tags).
Goetghebur, whose opinion can presumably
be trusted in such matters, says that his
all-time favorite beer Duvel, a nice 8.5%
Belgian ale, can be found all over Saigon at
no extraordinary price.
The names of Belgian beers can be
enchanting: Cristal Alken, Trappist,
Geuze. They conjure images of olde-tyme
watermills and mossy stone walls, gentle
golden pastures and thick oak barrels
covered in snow. The pastoral charms of
this quiet lowland European country seem
worlds removed from the crowded chaos
of Southeast Asia, so how does one explain
the sudden appeal of Belgian beers to
Vietnamese consumers?
Making Beer More Better
The answer, perhaps unexcitingly, lies

with the craftsmen who make the beer.
Belgium has a beer history, Goetghebeur
says, where most beers were brewed
in monasteries, abbeys and small family
breweries. He cites as an example Saint
Sixtus Abbey, which brews the most world
recognised Westvleteren XII, a dark beer
of 10.2 percent, which has been aged for 10
years.
Goetghebeur explains that ever since
the Abbey won a 2005 award for the brew,
demand has been insatiable. They had
to make the street [to the abbey] one-way
because of the many visitors, he says. Its
even hard to find this beer in Belgium, as
they make more money on export.
Segers is also quick to point out the local
character and history of Belgian beers.
Each village has its own brewery, he says,
which gives [its] heritage, as most of these
breweries are existing more than two or three
hundred years. This is no case of samesame-but-different, either. As Segers says,
Each beer has a different taste or colour.
Belgian beersare tasted and consumed like
a French wine. [They are] totally different
than the lager beers from UK or Germany.
According to Goetghebeur there are
over 2,300 types of Belgian beer, each of
which has its own specialised glass. As if
this werent enough, many beers also have
accompanying cheeses that further heighten
your gastronomical pleasures.
Beer refreshes the palate while eating
cheese, he says. Its no coincidence that a
Chimay abbey beer makes a perfect pairing
with a Chimay abbey cheese. You may find

the taste of your favourite beer returning as
you polish off your cheese.
Apparently the Belgians are pretty good at
cheese, too.
The Beginning of the End of Mot-Hai-Ba?
Still, the beer drinking culture of Belgium,

with its refined appreciation of nuanced
flavours and culinary pairings, bears little
resemblance to the alleyway beer parties of
Vietnam, where the number of cans on the
ground indicates how good of a time people
are having. With regards to beer-drinking, it
will take some time to shift from a quantitybased approach to one with a greater
appreciation for quality.
Segers knows this all too well, having
suffered through many nights where all
of the Vietnamese get drunk and me not.
He attributes this to the weakness of the
local beer as, I can drink a big volume
of it without getting drunk, just going to
the toilet every five minutes, a statement
your correspondent empathised with so
vigorously that his appendix burst.
Goetghebeur has also experienced his
fair share of cheers-races across Vietnam.
As he says, The most common returning
memories are the getting noisier, red faces,
supporting each other when walking out
However, hes also seen glimpses of a more
cultured future.
I had a few experiences drinking Belgian
craft beers with Vietnamese friends and
customers, he says. They quickly skipped
the cheers-ing and just went sipping. They
enjoyed the flavours, but I dont remember
any of them having more than two of our
craft beers, and not because of the price of the
beer
If his personal experiences are viewed in
context of the increasing demand for Belgian
beers, it could be argued that a new type of
beer consumer is on the rise in Vietnam, one
who wont wake you up at 2am by knocking
over a table of empty 333 cans.
While this idealistic future is probably a
long way off, beer drinkers can take solace
in the startling array of new choices that
are already popping up at bars across the
country. Count Goetghebeur among those
anxious with anticipation.
The rumour goes that Stella [Artois]
draught will soon be available, he says. I
am pretty excited about this.
And why wouldnt he be? His home
country, the small but proud land of Belgium,
is taking over the Vietnamese beer market.
There will finally be drinkable beer poured
from this nations taps. Its an invasion that
everyone can support.
espite the inroads made into the

beer-drinking market by the likes
of Tiger, Heineken, Bia Saigon
and Halida, bia hoi remains the
staple choice of the average beer drinker
in Vietnam, particularly outside the big
cities. With ridiculously cheap prices and
beer produced as close by as the beer
matrons front stoop, its difficult to see
how other beers can successfully compete,
in particular microbrewery or craft beer.
But there is one factor of craft beer that
cannot be underestimated. Quality.
And over the past decade, Vietnams
much-touted rising middle class has readily
embraced the emergence of microbreweries.
The field has quickly crowded, with around
25 microbreweries in Hanoi alone offering
locally produced, Czech-style beer, usually
paired with good quality, tapas-style
restaurant fare.
Keeping it Local
Established in 1995, Hoa Viens flagship

brewery uses traditional Czech techniques to
produce lagers and ales. Its a local favourite
in both Saigon and Hanoi.
The microbrewery specialises in
A Micro Brew
The beer clubs are on the rise and bia hoi is as popular as
ever. So how are the microbreweries, the purveyors
of German or Czech-style beer, managing to fare?
Words by David Mann. Photos by Glen Riley
producing two kinds of Czech-style beer,
with prices starting at around VND44,000 for
a 300ml glass of beer. For those wanting to
party or collapse, in my case VND1.96
million will get you a 20-litre keg of freshly
brewed beer.
If youd prefer to collapse on premises,
then theres plenty of space to do so, with
the venues in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh
City having an inviting outdoor courtyard
and a massive amount of beer hall-style
seating spread over more than one level.
The food and service is consistently decent,
with offerings of good beer-grilled ribs
(VND262,000), Czech-style fried cheese

(VND132,000), lamb and more steak than
you can throw a chainsaw at.
The Goldmalt franchise of microbreweries
also attracts a loyal following, particularly in
Hanoi, with each pub brewing their own ales
and producing different tastes. Compared
with other breweries, the beers can be quite
strong and also as the name suggests
particularly malty.
Goldmalt pubs have a good mixture
between Vietnamese and European beer
hall designs, and while usually they have
an extensive list of beers on the menu,
sometimes only one or two are available.

Nonetheless, their unpretentious service
and humble food offerings attract a friendly
and easygoing crowd, particularly on Friday
evenings.
Thats the last day of the week before
everyone stays home with their family for
the weekend, says Thuc, who manages the
Ngo Thi Nham branch in Hanoi.
Bring on the Beer Clubs
The rise of upmarket beer clubs in the past

two years spearheaded by the Hanoi and
Ho Chi Minh City openings of Vuvuzela
have provided stiff competition for the
microbreweries. As the demand for beer
in Vietnam has increased, so too has the
popularity of such establishments, with
throngs of cashed up patrons embracing
their western-style customer service and
wide selection of imported beers.
More importantly, in the beer clubs its
not just the imported bottled beer thats in
demand, but draft lager. Microbreweries
have been selling beer straight out of the keg
for years. Now theres a new player on the
market doing exactly the same, except here
its the brands that count, the international
brands.
With the beer clubs propensity to attract
younger drinkers most microbrewery
drinkers are aged 35 and up many are
seeing the beer clubs as a threat to the
microbreweries.
Says beer connoisseur, writer and
blogger Jonathan Gharbi, only time will
tell if the capitals growing roster of

upmarket beer clubs will be felt by the citys
microbreweries.
Prices are much higher at beer clubs, and
some beer drinkers will probably get tired
of paying VND50,000 for a flat Carlsberg
and opt instead for a Czech lager for
VND30,000, he says. I think the interest in
microbreweries is slightly increasing.
Jonathan also says the addition of six new
microbreweries to the capital in the past year
alone is evidence that there is interest from
beer drinkers and beer investors alike.
There are a lot of people trying to enter
the Vietnamese market right now, he says.
I think there will be stronger competition.
And the distributors of malt and hops are
starting to talk about ale, so there is pressure
coming from both suppliers and customers.
However, Gharbi acknowledges that it
will be a while before new foreign brewing
traditions find their way to Vietnam. Most
microbreweries base their techniques on
Czech or German traditions. To evolve
beyond those will take time.
Fortunately, one brewery in Saigon
the Pasteur Street Brewing Company is
trying to do just that. Only recently opened,
this new venture specialises in American
craft ales. If their brews take off, then it
could potentially create a sea change in the
microbrewery industry in Vietnam.
Until then, the Swedish beer guru says
that Vietnams emphatic love of beer
combined with the countrys growing
prosperity will result in a higher demand
for upmarket beers without the luxury price

tags.
With more international brands coming
in, lavish venues in which to savour foreign
brews will also become important. This
could have even greater effect if import
tariffs get slashed under a potential Trans
Pacific Partnership free trade deal.
Which all begs the question. Whats going
to happen to the humble bia hoi? Well theres
one thing that will never change, and thats
price. As long as bia hoi offers the plastic
chair environment at cheap prices, a muchloved combination in Vietnam, it will be here
to stay.
For everything you need to know about
Vietnams microbreweries and quite a lot more,
head to Jonathan Gharbis website beervn.com
A Home Brew
You dont just have to go to a bar, beer club or

microbrewery to get a fix of the good stuff,
you can get it at home. Words by Harry Hodge.
Photos by Kyle Phanroy
t seems fitting that I meet German

Daniel Gehrig in Goldmalt, a
microbrewery in Ho Chi Minh Citys
District 7, to learn about his passion for
brewing beer.
Armed with hops, malt and yeast, he
tells me about the science behind his home
brewing. One of the founders of the website
Hobby Brewer Vietnam, now he wants to
share his knowledge with others as a beer
instructor.
Offering up recipes for brewing, links
to purchase brewing equipment, updates

on Hobby Brewer member meetings and
more, Hobby Brewer Vietnam is a goldmine
for anyone into making their own brews at
home.
My vision is for people here to be able
to brew at home more easily, says Daniel,
while showing me the bread hes made from
extra ingredients. People have found it so
hard to start brewing here.
The problem is the availability of key
ingredients which is inconsistent. So his
website offers access to extracts, yeast, hops

and malt from Europe, as well as gear to get
started. His own person system for home
brewing yields 22 litres of beer a month, or
roughly 70 bottles of beer at a time.
All in the Taste
So I could get a sense of what hes making,

Daniel brought along an IPA and a
champagne beer for me to sample, while
I also tasted some of Goldmalts black ale.
Uncorked for the first time that day, the
cloudy IPA still had some sediment in the
bottom, and it was nice to try something
different from my usual diet of Saigon Red
and Tiger. According to Daniel, the key to
making a good homebrew is not expensive
equipment. Rather, its the quality of the
water and the ingredients.
If you know how, you can brew with a
simple pot, he says, adding that he never
brewed before retiring to Vietnam in 2007.
I brew [whatever ingredients at the time] I
have.
To find out more about making your own
brews, or to get involved with Hobby Brewer
Vietnam, visit hobbybrewer-vietnam.de.tl
My vision is for people here to be able

to brew at home more easily
The Process
OF
INGREDIENTS
EQUIPMENT
1
Brewing Beer
FERMENTER
Can be a food-grade plastic

bucket or glass carboy with
an air-tight fitting lid
BARLEY
WATER
AIR LOCK & STOPPER
Allows carbon dioxide to

escape while keeping air in
RACKING CANE
Aids in the transfer of beer

from wort to fermenter
HOPS
PROCESS
YEAST
THERMOMETER
Measures the temperature

during the process
Step 1: Malting
BOTTLES
To decant the beer into
BOTTLE CAPPER & FILLER
A device to clamp caps

onto bottles, and a
device to transfer beer
into bottles
KITCHEN ITEMS
Sanitising agent, stove,

strainer, measuring
cups, wooden spoon,
large cooking pot, can
opener, bowl
Malting is the process where barley is made ready for brewing
After germinating for 5

days, the grain is dried
in a kiln
Grain is added to water and soaked for 40 hours
Step 2: Milling
MALT
SUGARS
The barley is cracked to make

it easier to absorb water,
which allows sugars to be
extracted from the malt
Source: brookstonbeerbulletin.com
Step 3: Mashing
WORT
MASH
TUN
Mashing combines the

cracked barley with water
and heats it in a 'mash tun'
for 1-2 hours
Step 4: Lautering
Lautering is the process of separating
the wort (the sugar liquid extracted
during mashing) from the grains
Step 5: Boiling
Boiling the wort ensures sterility. During

the boil hops are added, which contribute
bitterness, flavour and aroma to the beer. After,
the wort is set into a whirlpool and cooled to
the desired fermentation temparature
Step 6: Fermenting & Conditioning

After the wort has
cooled, yeast is added
to start fermentation.
Then it's conditioned
to the point of almost
freezing; the yeast will
settle and the proteins
will thicken
ALES & LAGERS

DIFFERENTIATE AT THE
FERMENTATION PORTION OF
BREWING:
WORT
Step 7: Filtering & Packaging

Filter the beer to stabilise
the flavour. Put in bottles,
cap it and there you have
it. Beer!
DIFFERENCES
ALES
LAGERS
FERMENTATION
Yeast rises
Yeast sinks
FERMENTATION
TEMPERATURE
o
21 - 24 C
o
8 - 15 C
LENGTH OF
FERMENTATION
2-3
Weeks
1-6
Months
A Brief History
of Beer Mythology
ew beverages inspire as many myths

as beer. People like to talk about beer
almost as much as they like to drink
it. Unfortunately, when people talk
they often tell outrageous lies, especially
after theyve had a few beers. Some of the
most widely circulated untruths include:
The Egyptian Slaves who Built the Pyramids

were Paid with Beer
We can thank the ancient Greek historian

Herodotus for this one. He visited the
pyramids nearly 2,000 years after they were
built and apparently had a lousy tour guide
somehow he managed to mix up the
story in two different ways.
First, the people who built the
pyramids werent slaves. Contemporary
archaeological research by Zahi Hawass
and Mark Lehner has shown that most
of the pyramid builders were ordinary
Egyptian citizens who presumably would
have been far less willing to toil for
fermented yeast than captive foreigners.
And while many workers were indeed

buried with jars of beer, this was a standard
Egyptian burial practice roughly equivalent
to pouring out a 40 in modern times and
if your homie was paid with a Colt .45, then
he deserves a little more sympathy than just
dumping a can of brackish piss-water into
the street, doesnt he?
But anyway, this whole idea is a myth.
The historical revisionism doesnt stop here,
though. It continues into the Middle Ages,
about which many believe:
Medieval People Drank Beer because the

Water Was Too Dirty
Beer wasnt even the intoxicant of choice

for the mud-caked serfs of feudal Europe.
They preferred wine, and considered it
essential to a healthy diet. They did have
plenty of access to clean drinking water,
though. Sources like Paulus Aeginata
insisted that water, not beer, is most
pleasant to drink, and pure to the sight
Medieval people certainly did drink a lot
of weakly fermented beverages like mead,

but this was mainly because fermentation
was the only preservative process available
before refrigeration. Which isnt to say that
medieval people didnt like having a pint
or two a 10th century Saxon colloquy
probably summed up the average persons
feelings best: Beer if I have it, or water if
I have no beer. Medieval folks just liked
to get drunk whenever possible, no matter
how clean the water was.
Modern humans are a bit more
discerning, as societies become increasingly
health-conscious. Some people have
even abandoned beer entirely due to the
erroneous belief that:
Drinking Beer Will Give You a Big Belly
The infamous beer belly is the scourge of

first-year university students and portly
grandfathers alike. Its also a lucrative
godsend for the makers of novelty T-shirts
(This isnt a beer belly / Its a gas tank
for a sex machine). Millions of fat oafs
Through its history, beer has inspired many people to tell lies including some
about the sweet tipple itself. Niko Savvas looks through the questionable evidence
and gets some answers (cred goes to Owen Salisbury for his tireless research)
have patted their pendulous tummies and
blamed beer for their enormous girths.
Guess I better cut back on the brewskis,
they say, chuckling as they admire the
avalanches of flesh where their waists
used to be. If only it was that simple.
A study by the Journal of Medicine
examined the body-mass index (BMI) and
abdominal height (how far your gut sticks
out) of 2,300 drinkers and non-drinkers.
Researchers found that beer drinkers had
no more belly fat than non-drinkers,
which is bad news for anyone who
thought that cutting out the beer from his
diet meant he could keep eating handfuls
of deep-fried Mars Bars for lunch.
People sure do seem to be getting fatter
and dumber these days, though. Why else
would they think that:
A Beer Has as Much Alcohol as a Glass of Wine

or a Shot of Liquor
If youve ever taken a mandatory alcohol

awareness class after being busted for
underage drinking (and who are we

kidding, of course you have), then youve
probably heard this myth. Its usually
accompanied by a colourful infographic,
though, so whos going to disagree? The
myth can be debunked in three easy steps.
1) Assume average serving sizes and
potencies, which are: 40ml shot of 40
percent alcohol-by-volume spirit, 500ml of
5 percent ABV beer, and 150ml glass of 14
percent ABV wine.
2) Multiply the mililitres by the percent
to find the total mililitres of alcohol per
drink. The shot has 16ml of alcohol. The
beer has 25ml. The wine has 21ml.
3) See how the numbers are different.
Of course, you could argue with these
figures. You might say that a normal can
of beer does indeed have the same amount
of alcohol as a shot of 120-proof liquor, or
that a double-slug of Everclear gets you
way more twisted than a glass of Pinot
Grigio. And youd be right, which segues
nicely to our final misconception that:
Beer Myths are Interesting to Talk About
Think about what youve just read. It

was roughly 800 words about health,
science and ancient history. Sure, beer
was involved tangentially, but was that
really worth it? There may be some beer
myths that can be enjoyed without any
need to think too hard (like the one
about employees of a certain Mexican
beer peeing in every batch), but these
are always so obviously made-up that
debunking them is like telling a toddler
that Santa Claus died. Its easy and fun,
but eventually unsatisfying.
Dont people drink beer to forget
about stuff like this all the pointless
little quarrels that normally occupy
our minds like a gaggle of unwashed
hippies? If the cute stranger at the bar
says a pint of stout is stronger than a
pint of lager, are you really going to
argue?
Dont be that person. Nobody likes
that person.
Our Judges
The Pro
Q UAN U T U T S
Mark Gustafson
The Non-Beer-Drinker
W INE E MBASSY S
Francois Carteau
The Bros
S AIGON R UGBY C LUB

players Billy Hammer
and Cian OSullivan
The English Teacher

The inimitable Joe Briel
Beer Fridge
Taste Test
All this chat about the future of beers in Vietnam has
gotten us thirsty. Ed Weinberg (words), Kyle Phanroy
(photos) and Owen Salisbury (facilitation) opened
a well-stocked fridge at a local Circle K to see
what the everyman has on tap
A B
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The Hardcore Gamer
The Hardcore Gamer goes to the

bar for three reasons: to chug
brews, to kick ass and to play
surprisingly complicated drinking
games she kinda remembers
from her university days. The
Hardcore Gamers enthusiasm for
beer is matched only by her fiery
competitiveness and her inability
to recall most of the games rules.
Still, she never forgets their names,
and she never stops pestering the
rest of the group to play F*ck the
Dealer or Presidents and Assholes or
some other whimsical euphemism
for binge drinking.
Protests of Id really prefer
to drink my beer in peace
are generally ignored by the
Hardcore Gamer. If a deck of
cards is present, she will insist
on using it for an insanely
difficult competition that requires
participants to have a mastery
of Eulers Formula of complex
analysis and the ability to repeat
novella-length incantations from
memory. She rarely knows how to
shuffle. Niko Savvas
A B
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The Reluctant Gourmand
The Reluctant Gourmand usually

doesnt drink beer. He doesnt like
the taste, and he finds beer to be
too filling. Hed much rather have a
gin-tonic or a nice Merlot, but since
his friends have chosen a beer-only
establishment and/or bought the
current round of drinks, hes forced
to feign enthusiasm for his mealy
mug of peasant-water.
The Reluctant Gourmand is never
pleased by this, and reminds his
companions of that fact repeatedly.
Would it have been that hard to pick
a spot with a decent cocktail menu,
or to not be such a cheap bastard
once in a while? The Reluctant
Gourmand certainly doesnt think
so, and he resents being surrounded
by cultural barbarians every time
he goes out on the town. Hell finish
his beer, oh, hell finish it, damn
your oily hides, but every grimfaced swallow will be recorded at
length later that night as he sits in
his parlour room, writing in his
calfskin diary with a goose-quill
pen while sipping from a decanter
of 16-year-old Lagavulin. Niko
Savvas
f youre a beer drinker in Vietnam,

youre pretty excited for the future.
Maybe youre even sipping on one of
those tasty Saison beers from Pasteur
Street right now. Well, that probably
would have won our little taste test but
that wasnt exactly the point.
Upon entering the finest Circle K (45
Ly Tu Trong, Q1, HCMC) this side of the
Hai Van Pass, we felt a surge of optimism.
Through two crammed fridges, we had
nearly 25 beers to choose from. The labels
dazzled, every shade of tin you could
imagine. We had a feeling it would be hard
selecting the 10 beers our blind testers would
be tasting (we gave them 11).
We split the selections between domestic
and international (although theyre all
manufactured in-country besides Beerlao
and Singha to avoid the dreaded import
tax), the jury between pros and pro drinkers.
We had the classic criteria:
Aroma
Appearance
Taste
Aftertaste
... as well as a couple commonsense
categories for cheap beer:
Buzz
Burps
We didnt calculate scores in a scientific
way. You cant give a monkey a top hat and
call it Abraham Lincoln, and these beers
would rather not wear a top hat. We just
The Scores
S MALL S AMPLE -S IZE T HEATRE
No. 1: Beerlao 4.0 (two votes)

No. 2: Singha 3.82 (two votes,
one abstention)
T HE B EST
OF THE
R EST
No. 3: Heineken 3.4

No. 4: Halida 2.75
No. 5: Saigon Special 2.73

No. 6: 333 2.57
No. 7: Larue / Budweiser (tie) 2.4
No. 9: Asahi 1.98
No. 10: Tiger 1.9
No. 11: San Miguel 1.77
asked the panel to give us a final score, 1

(worst) to 5 (best). No 5s were awarded.
Even with the pressures removed, the
spectre of 333 remained as in everyone
was super scared theyd say they liked it.
Through round after round of same-tasting
light lagers, the fear remained even after
333 went down squarely in the middle of
the pack. As Quan Ut Ut co-owner / recipe
mastermind / beer brewer Mark Gustafson
put so deftly, Of all of them, theres not
much separation. You realise how close they
all are to each other.
And then Joe Briel, our English teacher /
moderately wasted control interjected, Has
anyone got, like, this real heavy beer taste?
Round 1: Larue
Our first beer is one Ive always thought

of as a feisty cheapie in retrospect,
that impression of flavour probably has
more to do with the cool lion on the can.
With facilitator Owen delivering the cups
unmarked, my sentimental favourite was
soon derailed by accusations of lightness.
Francois Carteau from Wine Embassy called
it a 4am beer.
It did however inspire this exchange:
Joe: You getting a burp from that?
Billy [Hammer, Saigon Rugby Club
player]: Yea...
Joe: That wasnt a lager burp, that was
like a burp after a full meal.
One in the books.
Round 2: Halida
Super crisp, Joe said after the pour of our

second beer.
This is a 1am beer, Francois said. The
last one was a 4am beer, but with this one I
dont know if I want to go home yet.
Mark said, Its not a Saigon, its crisp like
an Asahi or Sapporo.
A bit later, I heard the word Halida
from Marks end of the table. I went over to
investigate, but I soon understood he was
talking about the previous round. It could
be a Halida, it could be a 333, theyre all the
same to me.
Halida, as it turns out, is just a bit crisper.
Round 3: Asahi
The first overall score of 1 was awarded to

Asahi and not by the tester who described
his resulting burp as through my nose and
burned.
A B
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The Tactile Fixationist
The Tactile Fixationist just likes to

have a beer in his hand, man. Its not
that he even drinks that much, but
hes gotta have something to hold on
to, you know? Hed feel weird being
at a bar, dinner party or kindergarten
choir recital without a beer clenched in
each fist like an aluminum life rope.
He hasnt really had that many, even;
you just always seem to catch him
right after he grabbed a new one.
Some Perspective
In more developed beer industries worldwide,
the popular beers are usually light lagers. But
my father told me how, in the US, Budweiser
used to be a much different beer. Which is
the same story reported in the 2006 Wall
Street Journal article After Making Beer Ever
Lighter, Anheuser Faces a New Palate:
Anheuser concedes Budweiser
has changed over the years. It quietly
tinkered with its formula to make the beer
less bitter and pungent, say several
former brewmasters, a byproduct of the
company's desire to create a beer for the
Everyman.
I met a brewing consultant with Singha
the other night, and he told me the same
phenomenon occurred in his native
Germany, where the most widespread beers
are you guessed it light lagers. And, he

added, the Asian practice of putting ice into
your beer doesnt help.
We discussed Stella and Hoegaardens
entries into the Vietnamese market, and he
was dismissive: Too late. He thinks the local
beer landscape is set you drink Heineken
if youre spending money, or maybe Tiger;
you drink 333 or a local lager if money is
more a consideration than quality, or if youre
tram phan traming at a wedding. No one
wants to binge-drink an IPA.
But, as in the rest of the world, all this
sameness can really help a unique beer
to stand out. And, as Vietnams beer
culture evolves, it isnt a stretch to think that
eventually these beer fridges will have room
for more than just more of the same.
The Tactile Fixationist will

occasionally relinquish his grip on
his beer to play a round of darts, but
his performance is often impaired
by the lack of simultaneous alcohol
consumption and he usually acts
swiftly to rectify this. Predictably, the
Tactile Fixationist is a frequent visitor
to the restroom after a certain point
in the festivities, where everybody
just hopes he puts his beer down long
enough to wash his goddamn hands.
Niko Savvas
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The Wistful Gazer
The Wistful Gazer has deep thoughts.

Usually these thoughts come to her
after the seventh or eighth beer of the
night, when she finally begins to see
things clearly. The epiphanies of the
Wistful Gazer vary in content some
nights she may realise that a coworker
really isnt all that much smarter or
more qualified than her, on others
she might at last understand that an
ex-partner wasnt even worth the
heartache.
Her visions are often challenging
to decipher for the outsider, due to
Wistful Gazers tendency to speak in
tongues, but sometimes the planets
align and two Wistful Gazers find
themselves in the midst of a beatific
drunken mind-meld. It is usually
best to avoid pairs of Wistful Gazers
at moments like this because what
theyre talking about is really none
of your fing business, even if their
conversation is being screamed at
Robert Plantian volumes. Niko
Savvas
When guessing which beer they might be

tasting, two testers guessed fellow Japanese
export Sapporo, while one guessed Sh*t
beer inc. and another wrote, It tastes like
a tea bag that was left in for too long, then
removed.
Mark was one of the close ones. He said,
Im thinking this might be a Sapporo, its a
little sweeter.
But we noticed the other testers
understanding the gravity of their task
for the first time. Not only did they have
to drink halves on seven more beers, they
actually had to taste them too.
Round 4: 333
333 came and went without much fanfare.

Smells like Bui Vien to me, Billy
ventured.
Smells like the same mild bitterness of all
the beers [weve tasted], Mark added.
But still, Billy felt he was onto something.
Ive drunk way too many of these in the
past. Its gotta be a Saigon Red or a Tiger.
In his notes, fellow rugger Cian OSullivan
wrote, Tastes oddly familiar again! After
three beers, shouldnt these be starting to
taste better??
Francois was one of the ones buoying
333s middle-of-the-pack result. Its close to
a Saigon, he said. Were getting better.
Round 5: San Miguel
The gold can stirred up some more 333

speculation, on its way to the worst scores of
the night.
Its the worst Ive had so far, Mark said.

I disagree, Billy countered.
I mean, I could drink this all night, it
doesnt taste like anything.
I mentioned that photographer Kyle
admittedly not a beer drinker took a sip
from the remnants of the can and called it
the best beer of the night.
Murmurs abounded, as the testers
weighed the possibilities of psychological
trickery.
Now that you mention that, Francois
said, Im sure this is the 333.
Round 6: Budweiser
Mark called this one off the bat. Well this

has more aroma than the last beer, he said,
giving the pour a sniff. Not a lot though.
He took a sip. That is Budweiser.
Billy said, Is that because I just
mentioned Budweiser? He had in the
previous round, telling a bartending story
about how he used to switch the taps
between Bud Light and Miller Light when
one ran out, and no one ever knew the
difference. Its a lot like playing a card
game here, the names were throwing out.
Billy took a sip, then agreed.
Though the two Americans in the crowd
nailed it, the others named an array of
domestics as the likely subject: Huda, Zorok,
Larue. One of them also commented, Im
running out of taste buds / beer names.
Round 7: Tiger
By the seventh round, people were tired.
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Billy talked about the American football
playoffs, Mark handed out some Quan Ut Ut
key chains, Joe smoked a cigarette.
Okay guys, just four more to go.
Is it restlessness that propelled Tiger
to the second-worst scores on the night?
Mark thought it was the smell of industrial
chemicals.
You know that smell when you stain
your dresser? Mark asked. Im getting
aroma of paint thinner.
Round 8: Saigon Special
With the hometown beer poured, our

testers moved into the fifth stage of grief
acceptance.
Everything is starting to taste more and
more the same, Mark said. The other testers
agreed, and their emptier score sheets seem
to support the sentiment.
This might be a Heineken, Billy said.
I was thinking this might be Tiger, Mark
replied.
Tigers not as fizzy as this, Joe said.
Tigers not fizzy at all. Its like super light.
This is what its come to.
Round 9: Heineken
I thought I didnt like Heineken. But it

turns out that the same advertising that
positions it as a classy choice to some
has an equally strong, inverse effect on
me it seems to be the brand of poseurs
everywhere.
But, in finishing first among beers bottled
in-country, it turns out that its also the
finest choice in most domestic beer fridges.

Either theyre just starting to go down
good, Mark said, or that ones alright.
Round 10: Singha / Beerlao
For the last round, we decided to mix it

up or rather, Circle Ks lazy stockists
decided for us.
Reaching for nominee number 10, we
found only one Singha on the shelf. Then
we noticed the Beerlao right below, and
got a tricky idea.
Both beers bottled out of country,
using a different water supply than our
other taste test selections finished at
the top of our judges charts. Joe said his
Singha was the beeriest; Cian wrote
about his Beerlao, I think it was the best,
but that said it was my tenth.
Mark wrote in after the tasting in
support of Beerlao (he was given a Singha,
which he rated a 3):
I did not receive a Beerlao in the last
round or I would have maybe rated [it] a
5, as I drank two of them after the tasting.
It makes you realise how all of these
companies in Vietnam are offering the
exact same product. Biochemists at these
breweries know how to be different and
can brew different styles. They are all
copycats and think this is the standard. I
hope it all changes and new styles make
their way in to the local markets. I know
there are many changes to the beer scene
coming soon, and my company and a few
others are starting to make it happen.
You
God, you hate cheap gimmicky

stunts like A Taxonomy of Beer
Drinkers. It reminds you of those
lame Internet questionnaires that
ask Which cast member of the
Simpsons are YOU? or Whats
your REAL mitochondrial age?
Sure, youll have a beer if you
feel like it, but you dont need to
define yourself by your drinking
preferences.
Maybe tonight youll have an
oatmeal stout with dinner, or
maybe youll have a chocolate
martini instead. You are vast; you
contain multitudes. You know
that its ridiculous to suggest that
the fact a person enjoys amber
ales instead of dunkelweizens says
anything significant about his or
her personality. You see this list
for what it is a lazy pandering
to hordes of bovine-eyed
commoners desperate for any
chance to categorise themselves
under an archetype so as not to
feel so hopelessly alone in the
world. Thats why youre you.
Beautiful, beautiful you. Niko
Savvas
insider
INSIDER
HCMC
Making the Metro

a Success
With the metro system due to launch in Ho Chi Minh City in 2018,
here are 10 things that need to change to make it work.
Words by Nick Ross. Additional reporting by Ian Wills
he 2018 arrival of the metro system

is great news for Ho Chi Minh
City. It will reduce congestion and
provide a more convenient way
to travel around an increasingly polluted
city. However, anyone who takes faith in
the Field of Dreams motto Build it and
[they] will come is mistaken. To make
the metro a success, a lot of work beyond
building the lines and the stations needs
to be done.
Here are some of the challenges to be
overcome. Not only could the metro system
be positive in its own right, but it could lead
to the transformation of the Ho Chi Minh
City we know today.
1) Sidewalks
2) Parking
For a metro system to be successful you need

sidewalks or pavements, the facilities that
make a city where the metro exists into a
walking city.
While Central Hanoi is reasonably wellendowed on this front, Ho Chi Minh City is
not a walking city. Large numbers of roads
dont have sidewalks, and those that do
exist are often in disrepair or crowded with
motorbikes and street sellers. For people to
be able to use the metro system they need
to be able to walk, regardless of the climate.
And more importantly, they need shade.
Clever town planning has enabled Singapore
and Bangkok to deal with these issues, Kuala
Lumpur to a lesser extent. Ho Chi Minh City
has a lot of work to do.
A lack of adequate parking in the out-oftown stations will mean that few people will
use the metro. But according to Dr. Akira
Hosomi, a consultant on the project, they
are looking at ways of providing motorbike
parking. This will depend on space and the
acquisition of land, he explains, admitting
that this may be vital for getting passengers
to use the network.
3) Safety
Ho Chi Minh City is built on a swamp and
there will definitely be fears that the metro
system will lack stability. But, says Dr.
Hosomi, this has been taken care of thanks
to drilling pylons deep enough to keep
the structure stable along with latitudinal
supports to make sure the project is safe and
reliable over a long-term period.
With so many stories circulating in
Vietnam of bad construction, convincing the
people of Ho Chi Minh City that the metro
is safe may be one of the biggest issues the
authorities have to face.
4) Smartphone and Tablet Usage
6) Pricing
Go to any metro system Paris, New York,

London, Singapore, Bangkok and people
comfortably bring out their smartphones or
tablets and use them while theyre on the
trains.
Sitting on a train, especially an
underground train, can be dull. So, the use
of these gadgets as well as books, magazines
and newspapers is vital they take away
the monotony of the journey.
However, with petty theft and snatching
rampant in Ho Chi Minh City, its going to
take a lot of convincing to persuade people
to take out their phones and use them in
public.
The metro will need security guards and a
good CCTV system. More importantly, it will
need a security system that works.
If the metro is going to priced the same as

the buses around VND5,000 a ride then
it will attract the everyday passenger. This
may well deter Saigons growing middleclass from using the system. Status is a big
issue in Vietnam, and if the metro is seen as
transportation for the lower income brackets
of society, it will put off office workers and
other potential commuters.
Likewise, if the cost of a ride is too high,
then potential passengers will continue
with their existing forms of transport
motorbike, car and bus.
Getting this right both price and the
type of passenger they want to attract will
be a big challenge. And more importantly,
getting people to switch from their existing
mode of transport to the metro will take
time. In Bangkok it took years. The initial
projection of 400,000 passengers a day still
hasnt been reached.
5) Ticketing
According to Dr. Hosomi, the metro system
will use some sort of contactless smartcard,
similar to the cards used in places like
London or Singapore. This means that you
put money on the card and top it up when
you run low.
There are, however, two issues with this.
First, credit cards or debit cards are still not
widely used in Vietnam. These ticketing
systems rely heavily on payment by card.
Also, there are few, if any, machines in
Vietnam taking payment by cash. And with
Vietnam only using notes rather than coins,
there may be issues with making this work.
Paying with wrinkled paper money is far
slower than paying by card.
For the contactless smartcard system
to work, there
will need to be
alternative forms
of payment
available. Some
possibilities are
scratch cards,
payment by SMS
or top-ups at
convenience stores.
7) Queuing
With more national and international flight
travel, the previously non-existent concept
of queuing is now starting to be understood
in Vietnam.
In Singapore and Bangkok, there are clear
arrows showing where people should wait
for an arriving train. During rush hour in
London, passengers waiting on the platform
are informed by loudspeaker that they
should allow people to get off the train first
before boarding. These rules are followed.
Ho Chi Minh City will not only need those
arrows and those public announcements, it
will also need to make sure people follow
them.
8) Eating and Drinking

In Vietnam, few people eat or drink while
theyre on the move. So, avoiding eating
and drinking on the metro or on platforms
shouldnt be an issue.
However, stopping people from spitting,
smoking or littering may be a touch more
difficult. In the late 1990s an anti-spitting
law was introduced in Bangkok. This was

then followed by anti-litter laws that are so
stringent there are even fines for throwing a
cigarette butt on the ground. Ho Chi Minh
City may have to follow a similar formula.
9) Proximity to Centres of Activity

For people to use the metro, offices, schools,
hospitals and shopping malls must be in
close proximity to the stations. In Thao Dien,
the location of one of the stops, a shopping
mall complete with apartments has already
been built above the future station. Further
up the line at An Phu and Rach Chiec
stations, developments are presently
underway that include the building of
the largest shopping mall in Vietnam. An
underground shopping mall is also being
constructed between the first two stops on
Line 1, Ben Thanh and the Opera House.
This is an encouraging start; more of this will
be needed.
Says Dr. Hoshimi, The close location
of shopping malls, business parks and
educational establishments [is key] to
persuade people that the metro system is an
easy and efficient way to commute to where
they want to go.
10) Walkways to these Centres

And of course, its vital to make these
centrepoints accessible. That is something
that has been done amazingly well with
Singapores MRT. Each station has a number
of exits some of them long subterranean
walkways making it easier for people
to leave the metro at the exact spot they
require. Bangkok has also followed this
example, but relies more on overground
walkways as opposed to underground
passages.
But to do this requires vision and
planning. And with it presently being
unclear what establishments will be close
to all the stations especially in Districts 2
and 9 it may be difficult to enact prior to
the completion of Line 1.
insider
INSIDER
HCMC
The Future of
Downtown Saigon
As demolition reaches a fever pitch, 12 design proposals show
what the heart of the new city might look like.
Words by Ed Weinberg. Photos by Francis Xavier
106
ver since Henri Crutti-Maoris

failed plan of the 1930s
demolishing the Ho Chi Minh City
Hall, extending present-day Nguyen
Hue through the block and surrounding
it all with Corbusian visions the future
of the downtown political centre has been
an open question. Only recently, with
the demolition of 213 Dong Khoi, the
International Style landmark on its corner,
has this question been openly addressed.
12 proposed solutions to this design
impasse were presented at the Ho Chi Minh
Exhibition Center (92 Le Thanh Ton, Q1),
one block away from design ground zero,
at the end of last month. It was open to the
public, and viewers were encouraged to leave

feedback in a not-very-full-looking clear
plastic box. The proposals were based around
imposing new buildings, one of which will
become the new government offices, as the
1909 City Hall building they currently occupy
is being turned into a museum.
As it was a blind test, designs werent
marked by architecture firm, although
some had helpful explainers around
and a couple even had flower bouquets.
Despite the naming intrigue, this reporter
managed to ascertain the identities of
two of the represented firms metro
system collaborators and city planning
advisors Nikken Sikkei, with perhaps the
most lauded design (#106); and Urban

Planning Institutes Nguyen Binh Duong,
with a design that seeks to unite the green
pathways of the city, which one cheeky
commenter called Vincom 3 (#110, not
pictured). There was also a lightbox branded
with the name of Hong Kong architects
DCM Studios, underneath the most Bitexcolike model (#109).
Throughout most of the 12 designs, there
are strands in common: preservation of the
previously marked-for-demolition 1888
building at 59-61 Ly Tu Trong, new low-rise
constructions (the design brief purportedly
specifies a height limit), greenery and public
space. Some designs evoke the modern
Throughout most of the 12 designs, there

are strands in common: preservation of
the previously marked-for-demolition 1888
building at 59-61 Ly Tu Trong, new low-rise
constructions, greenery and public space
shapes of Jetsons-type buildings (it rises

in the back of City Hall like a spaceship,
one observer said about #113), some sheath
the colonial surrounds in glass and steel
like some European capitals have done,
some have the kind of uneasy coexistence
with heritage buildings seen on university
campuses the world over.
114
Feedback
On the preservation-minded Facebook group
Saigon Heritage Observatory, the designs
were critiqued.
One oblong green-glass design was labeled
a green whale by architect Mel Schenck.
The design with the twin descriptions
Symbolic Twin Towers representing the future of
HCMC and Under the Big Roof representing
the Spring of HCMC was met with a no no
no =.=. Historian Tim Doling called the
Nikken Sikkei design the most intriguing it
shifts 59-61 Ly Tu Trong off its foundations,
positioning it symmetrically behind City Hall.
Thomas Hoang, a former employee in the
Vietnamese Embassy in London and future
Ho Chi Minh City Council aide in the city
planning department, came down to see
what his future workplace would look like. I
asked him what he liked best.
The Japanese [Nikken Sikkei] design is
okay, he said. We walked around a corner
to a raised glass model, columns supporting
the building to create an open plaza
underside. Ive seen a couple of these in
Germany already. They build things like this
in Germany. Funny, to be honest.
Thomas said his time in Europe gave
him perspective, on how cities are actually
affected by the designs they commission. It
made him wary of all the glass surrounding
113
107
109
these old colonial buildings.

The Epcot Center-looking London City
Hall, he feels, was a mistake and its
wacky distorted egg shape looks curiously
dated just 13 years after construction, like
one of those early iMacs. Instead, hed
like Saigon to look like something along
the lines of Romes city hall, Palazzo del
Senatore, sitting atop the Capitoline Hill.
With its double ramp of stairs designed by
Michelangelo it gives off an imperial aura,
befitting of the city it commands.
The Plan
111
In June of last year, I had the opportunity to

speak with Nguyen Thang Viet, who was
charged with refining the design brief that
gave this design competition shape. He
didnt have much to work with.
I think the people who wrote that didnt
know what was there on the site, he said.
The history of each building, the conditions,
and what they could do with them. They
just, from their imagination and memory,
they just thought, I can keep this building,
then I can get rid of the rest.
He ended up having to learn the history
of the site on his own. And he came to
some of the same conclusions as the design
competitors.
My idea was that the new structure can
go over the existing structure... The building
can cover and then contain the old building
inside it. The exterior of the old French
colonial building can be the interior.
His pick is #106, of all that we got.
But as for the master plan, the style this
new construction should reflect?
I wish I knew. I dont know their
agenda.
insider
INSIDER
NATIONAL
The
Businessmen
of Beer
With a big month for beer in Vietnam already upon us,

Jon Aspin meets some of the men who call it their 9 to 5
Bottling line at Sapporo, Long An
Sapporo Vietnam general director Hirofumi Kishi
Sapporo HQ, Long An Vietnam
Brewing Platinum Pale Ale with Michael Comerton
The Marketer
Of the approximately 3 billion litres of
beer that will be drunk in Vietnam this
calendar year, around 25 percent of it will
be downed this month. It's a statistic I'm
made aware of by Joshua Lee, a Singaporebased advertising executive who previously
worked in Ho Chi Minh City with Vietnam
Brewery Limited, maker of Danangs Bierre
Larue and custodian of famous imports
Heineken and Tiger.
Theres only two things that have ever
really mattered when it comes to beer, he
says. Taste and image.
His words ring true, and certainly the
prevailing beer culture tends to support
the latter, where branded beer dispensers
known as towers of power are displayed
like trophies on tables, where promo girls
walking billboards if you will encourage a
convivial atmosphere, and hordes of 20-yearolds jump all over each other. Yes, the age of
the beer club beers coming out party in
Vietnam has been well and truly upon us
for the best part of the last two years.
The Director
However, the big players have been circling
around the potential of Vietnam for much
longer than that. 90 million people with a
growing middle (no pun intended) will tend
to make that happen.
San Miguel and Carlsberg have been here
for 20 years, while Vietnam is the largest
market in the world for Tiger and the third
largest market for Heineken, who have
dominated the premium space. Sniffing a
win, this year the big daddy of them all, AB
Inbev owner of Budweiser, Becks and
Stella Artois is planning its own assault.
Another recent entry, Japanese brand
Sapporo, has been making an impact
challenging the market leaders in the
premium category. Theyve rode the wave
of a sluggish economy, beer clubs and the
Vietnamese obsession with premium.
Theyve also invested US$75 million in their
own brewing facility in Long An.
We wouldnt enter the market any other

way, says local general director Hirofumi
Kishi. Before they set up shop, they spent
two years conducting a series of surveys to
make sure Vietnamese taste buds were ready
for the oldest brew in Japan. Hirofumi sums
up why they were in two words: Japanese
quality.
He explains, Vietnamese drinkers want
a premium brand thats expensive. Its good
for their mentality. They also trust Japanese
products, so thats why we had to make
our own facility here, so our product can be
made exactly to our standards, and we can
protect the reputation of the brand.
And what of the competition? Every year
beer consumption in this country grows by
10 or 15 percent, and the market itself gets
bigger, so every year there is a brand new set
of customers to focus on. Were not scared of
anyone else.
The Brewer
Famous brands like Sapporo, Heineken
and Tiger are all well and good staples
of the convenience store. All offer a choice
to thirsty drinkers and a way for brandconscious consumers to identify themselves.
But is it really much of a choice?
Michael Comerton is the Irish brew
master behind Platinum pale ale what
he describes as an aromatic Australianstyle pale ale. So far distributed in about 30
venues in Saigon, including places like Quan
Ut Ut and Caravelle, its a six-month-old
business thats starting to turn a profit.
I trust his pedigree. Michael is legitimate
beer royalty. He created one of my favourite
session beers of all time while at Lion
Nathan in Australia the James Squire
Golden Ale.
He believes that the market here is hitting
saturation. Already we have Sabeco,
Carlsberg, VBL, Sapporo, SAB Miller and
San Miguel in Saigon. Habeco is in Hanoi,
AB Inbev are coming I dont think all of
them will be here in two years.
Implied here is that in the rush for market

share, discount wars between the big players
are inevitable, devaluing the market as a
whole and making it harder for little guys
like himself to compete. Venues will be the
winners in the short term he says, as they can
demand a whole lot more for less, but its the
consumer who ultimately suffers, missing
out on the diversity of product that we see in
established beer markets in the west.
But still he sees hope. Were producing
a premium end product that tastes a little
different to the beers Vietnamese are used to
drinking. Its a completely different flavour
profile. So we expect to grow with them as the
market matures, and drinkers here become
more acquainted with premium beers made
from real ingredients.
The Publican
Our anonymous restaurateur has seen the
market develop over the past few years, but
has a hard time believing mainstream tastes
will extend to anything more than lager at
least not for the time being.
Its like wine, he says. Most of his
customers dont know the difference
between a bottle of Dalat and a 1980
Coonawarra, so they get embarrassed and
lose face. You dont want to do that to your
primary customer base, theyll stand up and
walk out. The same applies to beer.
So what do restaurateurs get out of the beer
game? Its an extra, he says, and its all
based on relationships.
Though his venue doesnt go through the
same volume as the average beer club, the bar
is still an important place for beer companies
to be represented. And he knows that.
Theres so much competition, I know I can
get a lot out of them, so I do. Its important
to them that they be in my location. If a
company like Diageo for example can afford
to pay US$150,000 to get David Beckham
to come to Chill for an hour, I dont feel
bad about hitting them up for a few extra
uniforms.
Sapporo on tap
insider
ARTS
HANOI
The Art of Ao Dai
An exhibition last month put the ao dai in the spotlight. In doing so it created
an enduring connection between past and present. Words by Katie Jacobs.
loating throughout the room like

coloured spectres, the silk robes
project a magical radiance. Each
endowed with a unique personality,
they hang silently, confident in the
knowledge that they are beautiful, they are
special.
I bond with a simple blue. She isnt the
showiest in the room, there are no glittering
dragons embroidered across her front
(although the one that does have these
motifs is also a wonder), but she has a
classy dignity that draws your eye to her
delicate detailing. Only those willing to
look closely see her markings, the almost
imperceptible lines and shading that give
the fabric an endless depth. Her insides are
golden, fastened from the world by tiny
gold clasps. She is, quite simply, the most
beautiful ao dai I have ever seen.
I am at the opening of the Goethe
Institutes newest exhibition a private
collection of eleven historic ao dais. These
robes are not simply garments, they are
symbols of beauty, a glowing remnant of a
rich history.
The past lights up the present, says
Thai Kim Lan, poet, philosopher and owner

of the ao dai collection. Standing among the
silk gowns, it is impossible to disagree.
With a name as elaborate as Das
prachtvolle Gelb luft ber blasse Bltter (The
gorgeous yellow runs over pale leaves), a
line from one of Thai Kim Lans poems, I
should have guessed this exhibition would
be unique.
The Stream of History

When I first saw these robes of heavy
silk in glorious colours, I was totally
enchanted, says Dr. Almuth MeyerZollitsch, Goethe Institute Director in
Vietnam. With the help of German artist
Veronica Witte, the three have not just
designed an exhibit of historic ao dais, they
have created a world in which to experience
them.
Arriving at the bustling grand opening, I
can find only one sign in English floor
may be harmful to high heels. Enter at
your own risk. A little dramatic I think to
myself, until I enter the room and find that
the floor is made of hundreds of intricately
laid don ganh, the bamboo poles used to
carry baskets. And indeed those in high

heels do seem to be struggling.
The hard wooden floor and shimmering
silk robes are polar opposites, explains
Witte. But in this room the floor looks
like rolling waves and the robes hanging
stiffly on their hangers become statuelike. What is hard? What is soft? It is all
interchangeable in the stream of history.
Covering the far wall, the image of a
historic palace keeps watch over the room,
while strategically interspersed televisions
mounted on colonial era shutter poles add
an element of intrigue. Interspersed at
intervals, each screen periodically comes to
life with a person speaking. Taking turns
to play their part through the screens, the
people create a virtual conversation focused
on history and time, all cantered around the
ao dai.
Entering the room, one immediately feels
transported into a cocoon of Vietnamese
history mingled with the evolution of the
present. The result is mesmerising.
An Evolution
The ao dai, as we know it today, is the
product of hundreds of years of evolution.

The modern two-panelled style, however, is
largely credited to the 1930s French-trained
Hanoi designer Cat Tuong, also known as
Le Mur.
Blending traditional design with
European fashions, he adapted the ao ngu
than, a five-panelled aristocratic gown
of the 19th and early 20th centuries, to
produce a clean cut, loosely fitting twopanelled tunic over pants. It wasnt until
the 1950s, however, when waists were
drawn in to accentuate the womans
curves, that this style of ao dai became
widely popular.
By the 1960s, many woman were
choosing to wear their ao dai in the
Madame Nhu style without the collar.
The following two decades saw a decline
in popularity. Not until the mid-1990s
were ao dais once again a popular fashion
choice. Today they are widely regarded as
Vietnams (unofficial) national dress.
design is usually not of the intricate beauty

found in those once worn by the aristocratic
classes. What was once everyday wear (at
least for the wealthy) has now become a
work of art.
Something once so intimate is now so
priceless, says Thai Kim Lan. These ao
dais have been preserved by the efforts of
my family so that the broken glory of the
past can live on into the future.
Das prachtvolle Gelb luft ber blasse Bltter
is not just a lovely exhibition, it is offering

viewers a slice of Vietnams rich culture.
The glorious art of these once ordinary
(now extraordinary) garments captures a
piece of beauty from history and draws it
into the present to enrich our future.
As Thai Kim Lan says, Without a past
our present will be broken.
The Goethe Institut is at 56-58 Nguyen Thai
Hoc, Ba Dinh, Hanoi. For more information
about their exhibitions, go to goethe.de
Historic Beauty
Although the ao dais of today create a
flattering silhouette, their construction and
The Criteria
We used the following criteria
to assess the burgers.
Each category was marked out of 10.
The bun
The patty
The sauce
Presentation
Overall taste
Price
EAT & DRINK
HANOI
Burger Wars
Food & drink
Four expert judges battled lunchtime traffic, salad cravings and meat sweats
to taste 10 burgers in two days. David Mann delivers the verdicts on whos
dishing up the best beef burgers in Hanoi.
here has been much talk recently

about which joint serves up the best
burger in Hanoi. So, we decided
to find out for ourselves and hit 10
restaurants known for the quality of their
patties-inside-a-bun.
A quick disclaimer. Each restaurant
agreed to join the tasting this certainly
wasnt done blind. And each restaurant was
allowed to choose the burger they would
make for the challenge.

Our instruction was simple and clear:
give us your best burger. Even better, give
us two of them, exactly the same.
Our entrants duly complied.
The Judges
P ETER T HE F OODIE N ACKEN
Tall, German, and armed with

razor sharp taste buds, Nacken
helps run the Foodies in Hanoi
Facebook group which has
accumulated more than 3,600
members since its inception.
Peter has dined in restaurants
from New York to Fiji but
maintains that at heart, Im still
a Hamburg-er.
DAVID THE FOOD WRITER MANN

Seasoned food writer, Word staff
editor and self-declared burger
lover.
S OREN T HE B UTCHER N IELSEN
This is one man who knows his

meat. A butcher turned food
production manager turned
hotdog-maker; Soren is the man
with the hottest wieners in town.
Pioneering Hanois first authentic
Danish hotdog stand, hes also
launching a range of authentic
German bratwursts and Italian
sausages.
C YPRIEN T HE F OOD AND

W INE G UY P IERLOVISI
Few people love food as

much as Frenchman Cyp,
co-founder of the new hit gastro
pub, Cousins, and the regional
manager for gourmet food
importer, Classic Fine Foods.
The Burgers
Shays Famous Burger
Tracys Damn Good Burger
Daluva
VND180,000
Tracys Bar
VND165,000
Our first stop on the Burger

Wars trail and Daluva came out
swinging. Its renowned for its
inventive and well-executed fare
and Shays Famous Burger is no
exception. It offers a generous
200g patty of locally sourced beef,
ground to the restaurants 80:20
meat-to-fat ratio, designed to
make it sizzle when its thrown
into the pan. Topped with a
slice of cheddar cheese, smoked
bacon and pickles, its served in a
custom-made brioche bun sourced
daily from S. Honore, alongside a
helping of fries and green salad.
Overall Verdict
The seaweed salt on the French
fries, caper aioli and bell pepper
ketchup certainly made this
a compelling and affordable
choice, particularly for those
with the taste for the exotic. The
bun does err on the sweet side,
but overall a good performer.
A treasured community bar

perched on the entrance to Xuan
Dieu, this cosy local favourite
churns out an impressive
selection of goods despite a
very tightly squeezed kitchen.
The 200g Australian beef patty
is cooked on a small grill and
also comes with the works:
caramelised onions, a fried egg,
lettuce, bacon and cheese. Sides
include a serving of pre-made
coleslaw and barbeque flavoured
potato crisps.
Overall Verdict
Its incredible that Tracys is
able to serve up such a cheerful
and well-stacked option from
its tiny kitchen. Its the kind of
big, tasty burger that you would
expect from your favourite
neighbourhood pub.
Tay Tap Burger
Wagyu Beef and Blue Cheese Burger
Tay Tap Bar and Grill

VND180,000
The Republic
VND240,000
One of Tay Hos favourite new

evening venues, Tay Tap has
caused a stir with its hearty pub
favourites and lakeside location.
The Tay Tap Burger comes with
180g of Australian chuck beef,
grilled and stacked with cheddar
cheese, cos lettuce, tomato and
balsamic onions. The burger also
comes neatly presented on a
rustic butchers block and with a
side of French fries.
Overall Verdict
This burger definitely has the
makings of a top contender.
The nice juicy patty and neat
presentation caught our judges
attention but unfortunately
some of the highly anticipated
trimmings, like balsamic onions
and the cheddar, didnt make
it onto the burger. In previous
encounters, however, the
judges said that this burger was
fantastic and on a good day is
one of Hanois best.
Packing 180g of Wagyu beef,

fresh rocket and blue cheese
sauce, the Wagyu Beef and Blue
Cheese Burger is big on flavour.
The sizable patty is classic
grilled and served with a nice
helping of blue cheese that melts
its way into a soft sourdough
bun. Dipping bowls of tomato
chutney and aioli give an extra
kick of flavour to a generous side
of fat chips.
Overall Verdict
At VND240,000 this option isnt
cheap, but the ingredients make
the pricing hard to argue with.
Combining high hitting toppings
and top-notch beef into a burger
big enough to give you lock jaw,
this option delivered strongly
on value. The judges also agreed
that the sourdough bun was
the best of the bunch. If youre
not big on blue cheese, the
generous dollop may overpower
the taste of that fine Wagyu
patty, but overall, you wont be
disappointed.
St. Helens Washington

State Prime Beef
Berger
Dons Bistro
VND199,000++
As you would expect
from Dons, this burger is
delivered with style. The
Washington chuck beef is
fed through a grinder three
times to ensure consistency
before being cooked over
a wood-fire grill, infusing
the 120g patty with a rich
(and sometimes elusive)
smoky flavour. Topped with
a medium-aged cheddar
cheese from Vermont, dill
pickles, grilled onions,
lettuce and tomato, it also
comes with a serving of
golden fat chips.
Overall Verdict
In a near unanimous
vote, this delicious burger
was deemed the best of
the entire challenge. The
reasons were simple: an
unrivalled smoky tasting
beef patty, a bity cheddar
cheese and a top-class
bun to bring it together.
Presentation was also a
winner, with the burger
arriving as a carefully
stacked tower with the
cheese oozing down the
sides an instant mouth
waterer. Although a teensy
bit on the messy side to eat,
the world-class flavours,
presentation and the
reasonable price tag had the
judges weak at the knees.
Other Burger
Joints
We tried to get in the best
of the best when it came to
this challenge, but there are
three other restaurants which
are known for their burgers.
Their non-inclusion is, well,
not deliberate. But we
thought we should give them
a mention anyway.
French Grill
The Hanoi Social Club
Tet Dcor Caf
The Press Club
The Burgers
Kafe Style Beef Burger
Beef and Bone Marrow Burger
The Kafe
VND100,000
Moose & Roo Smokehouse

VND210,000++
Priced at a compelling
VND100,000, the Kafes entrant
was the cheapest of the range.
Keeping with the eaterys
quirky and inventive theme, the
Kafe Burger offers up a 150g
pork and beef patty served on
a brioche bun with cheddar
cheese, mayonnaise, romaine
lettuce, tomato and onions. The
burger also comes with a side
of chunky English potato chips
seasoned with tarragon and salt,
all neatly organised on a trendy
(obviously) butchers block.
Overall Verdict
The brioche bun and the
tarragon chips were the
highlights of this meal, as was
the quirky presentation. While
the addition of pork seemed
to keep the patty moist, some
judges werent completely sold
on the flavour. At VND100,000,
however, this option presents a
cheap feed in a hip location.
This ambitious newcomer has

attracted a loyal following with its
Beef and Bone Marrow Burger,
crowned by regulars as one of the
best burgers in the city. The 180g
Australian top ground beef patty
is prepared fresh every morning
before being grilled and finished
in the oven. Housed in a custommade sesame seed bun, the patty
is topped with a helping of juicy
onions caramelised in-house for
10 hours pickles, stringy bacon,
cheddar cheese and a secret sauce.
The burger also comes with house
made slaw and French fries.
Overall Verdict
Talk about wow factor. This burger
was an instant favourite for its
overall taste and the high quality
ingredients. Personal touches such
as the secret sauce, air-dried stringy
bacon and caramelised onions all
prepared in house added flair
and a unique finger licking taste
that had the judges fighting over
the leftovers. The deconstructed
presentation also won votes for
originality, as did the reasonable
price. Some judges did question the
addition of bone barrow but this
was put down to personal taste.
Homemade Cheese and Bacon Burger
Ultimate Wagyu Beef Burger
El Gaucho Argentinian Steakhouse

VND390,000++
Jacksons Steakhouse
VND355,000++
The Argentinian Steakhouse,

which opened its second branch
on Trang Tien last year, is now a
favourite among Hanois resident
carnivores who like their meat
imported and their bill with a
shot of caramel vodka. Its easy
to see why. The 220g patty blends
four cuts of prime beef into one
exquisite and juicy patty, is flamegrilled and topped with lettuce,
tomato, ketchup and mayonnaise.
The burger is also accompanied
by a generous serving of fat chips
and salad splashed with delicious
vinaigrette dressing.
Overall Verdict
We wont lie. Our expectations
were high for El Gaucho. And
with the poise and flair of an
Argentinian tango, it delivered.
The four-cut patty was an instant
winner with the judges. So if
youre picky about your meat, and
splurging US$20 doesnt matter
to you, then this is probably the
place for you. The panel was also
impressed with the presentation
and the tasty sides, which also
included a welcome basket of
wood-fired bread, garlic confit,
salsa ciolla and garlic butter.
An Aussie touch shines through

in the Ultimate Wagyu Beef
Burger the only burger in the
challenge to come with a thick slice
of beetroot. The sesame seed bun
is baked fresh daily at the in-house
bakery, before being buttered
and tossed on the grill to make it
nice and toasty. The beef is 180g
of Australian Wagyu and New
Zealand sirloin ground into a juicy
patty that is grilled and stacked
with Swiss Emmental cheese (or
blue cheese, if you so desire),
crispy bacon and a runny fried
egg. Its served with a side of fat
chips sprinkled with salt, pepper

and a pinch of chilli flakes.
Overall Verdict
This burger was an all-round
performer, but didnt quite hit
the same notes as others in its
price range. The meat patty rated
highly with the judges as did the
refreshingly light taste. A buttered
and well-toasted bun and the
offerings of four different kinds of
mustard were also winners.
The Final
Verdict
The Top 3
Ete Burger
Ete Bar
VND145,000
Etes tasty food, quirky cocktails
and no-frills approach to
dining make it one of the most
popular spots south of West
Lake. We sampled the mediumsized Ete Burger, which was
furnished with a 180g pan-fried
patty layered with wholegrain
mustard, onions, garlic, cheddar
cheese, pickles, tomato and cos
lettuce. Sides include garden
salad and chunky potato chips
tossed with an aromatic blend of
garlic, thyme and rosemary.
Overall Verdict
Hands down the best chips of
the challenge and the patty,
cooked in a flaming hot pan,
came with a nice darkened crust.
The addition of a runny fried
egg that soaked the patty with a
delicious warm yolk when you
bit into it was also well received
by the judges. With that price
tag, this burger presented the
best value option overall.
The best burger is awarded

to D ON S B ISTRO for their
S T . H ELEN S W ASHINGTON
S TATE P RIME B EEF B ERGER .
Also in the top 3 are:
Category
Awards
B EST B UN
The Republic
B EST F RIES
Ete
B EST P ATTY
El Gaucho
E L G AUCHO for their

H OMEMADE C HEESE AND
B ACON B URGER
B EST P RESENTATION
M OOSE & R OO
S MOKEHOUSE for their
Moose & Roo

Smokehouse
B EEF
B ONE M ARROW
B URGER
AND
Dons Bistro
B EST S AUCE
B EST T RIMMINGS
Moose & Roo
Smokehouse
B EST V ALUE
Ete
Food & drink

MYSTERY DINER
HANOI
Au Lac Do Brazil
When Au Lac Do first opened, they saw a gap in the barbecued meat
market. Our undercover reporter checks them out to see if eight years
later, theyre still hitting the spot. Photos by Julie Vola
n Vietnam, a country famed for its

roaring street food scene, your options
for barbequed meat are pretty endless.
Drive down any main street and youre
bound to see a lady fanning meat over
white hot charcoals, or groups huddled
around Vietnams famed street barbecues
cooking pork ribs and strips of sweet
potato.
But sometimes, and particularly during
the winter months, its nice to trade the
little blue stools for a padded chair, and the
ambiguous looking meat for recognisable
New Zealand sirloin.
Au Lac Do Brazil may not be a new entry
to Hanois meat market, but eight years
after opening the only churrascaria in the
capital, diners are still attracted to it for its
lively atmosphere, festive dining halls and
authentic churrasco experience.
For those who have no idea, churrascaria
is the Brazilian word for a restaurant that
typically serves grilled meat; typically many
different variations of meat, and typically
all-you-can-eat. After the meat is grilled
on a churrasquierras (barbecue), it is served
espeto corrido style; that is, brought to your

table on a giant skewer by a passador (waiter)
and sliced directly onto your plate. Pretty
exciting stuff.
Down on Cao Ba Quat, Au Lac Do does
pretty much that. The whole operation
is housed in a giant yellow and green,
double-storey restaurant with Brazilian
paraphernalia as far as the eye can see. Some
would call it tacky. I call it fun.
The real bread and butter of this operation
is the buffet, which is offered in a pared back
option or the full churrasco for VND650,000
per person. This entitles you to the whole
gamut of salads and vegetables and a suite
of barbecued meats, including Calabrian
sausage, Brazilian picanha steak, leg of lamb,
chicken wings, cupim beef shoulder, pork
ribs and barbecued shrimp wrapped in
bacon.
A Fine Cut
We began with a plate of tasty garden salad
drizzled with a light dressing, some garlic
bread and a strong caipirinha (VND105,000)
the Brazilian national drink incorporating
rum, fresh lime, raw sugar and cachaca.

Within minutes, a smiling waiter appeared
at our table with the first course a giant
skewer of sizzling pichana steaks. With a
sharp blade, he proceeded to shear generous
slabs onto our plates, filling our nostrils
with the rich aroma of barbecued steak.
Each mouthful was succulent and carried
an extremely rich, smoky flavour that only
hours of roasting can achieve.
Next was the beef shoulder, carefully
wood-fired for four hours before being
carried straight from the grill to our plates.
The meat was nicely well done without
being dry, while the accompanying
chimichurri sauce helped to balance the beefs
rich, salty flavours.
The lamb that followed had a similarly
rich taste. Having been slow-cooked for
hours, it had developed a beautifully golden
crust, while the slightly pink flesh on the
inside carried the delicious flavours of
wood-fire and rosemary.
Speed Fest
In the following 10 minutes, our attentive
THE VERDICT
11
FOOD
12
SERVICE
10
DCOR
passadors served us chicken wings, marinated

pork ribs, Brazilian calabrian sausage and
succulent prawns wrapped in crisp, salty
bacon. After a few minutes of reprieve we
succumbed to a final serving of barbecued
pineapple, dished up warm with a delicious
caramelised crust, before tucking into cups
of light and fluffy passion fruit mousse.
The atmosphere was somewhat lacking
on the day we arrived, but we had missed
the lunchtime rush so the crowd had begun
to wane. This perhaps had the benefit of
ensuring that the staff werent as run off
their feet and were able to dish out the meat
even faster (in fact, faster than we could eat
it).
Yes, the street barbeque will always
be cheaper and perhaps livelier (I mean,
what can substitute for the thrill of passing
motorbikes splashing rainwater onto your
sizzling steak?). But if youre after quality
meat and value in a fun setting, Au Lac Do
provides a compelling way to spice up your
Friday night.
Au Lac Do Brazil is at 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba
Dinh, Hanoi
Food, Decor and

Service are each
rated on a scale
of 0 to 15.
13 15
extraordinary to
perfection
10 12.5 very
good to excellent
8 9.5 good to
very good
5 7.5 fair to
good
0 4.5 poor
to fair
The Word reviews
anonymously and
pays for all meals
Food & drink
STREET SNACKER
HANOI
Bun Thang
Although its a dish traditionally eaten at Tet, bun thang is now
available year round. Words by Huyen Tran. Photos by Julie Vola
s the Vietnamese New Year gets

close, people rush to the market
to stock up on traditional food for
Tet. Among the signature dishes
prepared in Hanoi are chung cake or banh
chung, Vietnamese-style ham or gio cha,
sticky rice, chicken, dried bamboo shoots
and bun thang, which is vermicelli noodle
soup with chicken, pork and egg.
In the past, bun thang was prepared on
the fourth day of Tet, when Hanoians ate
a meal to see off their ancestors. A bit like
the concept behind paella or bubble and
squeak, the ingredients for the soup are all
the leftovers anything from ham, chicken
and shrimp to pork and vegetables. The
sweet and earthy taste of bun thang makes
it a cannot-do-without dish for Hanoians,
a light culinary relief after days of eating
heavy food.
Yet, despite being supposedly thrown
together, making bun thang is a painstaking
process requiring no less than a dozen
ingredients, including chicken meat, pig
bones and meat, eggs, dried shrimp, lean

pork paste, shrimp paste, onion, mushroom,
belostomatidae essence (the essence of the
giant water beetle) and herbs.
There are a number of qualities that make
up a delicious bowl of bun thang, explains
Nguyen Phuong Hai, the well-known
chef who has made it his raison detre to
rediscover the lost dishes of traditional
Vietnamese cuisine. The broth must be
clear, and it should reflect purity. The taste
is both light and sweet, thanks to the boiled
chicken, pig bone and shrimp. The toppings
must be thinly sliced, matchstick-sized, then
perfectly placed side by side. This makes a
bowl of bun thang look visually stunning.
Not Just for Tet

These days, people have less time on their
hands. So instead of spending hours preparing
a noodle soup, people head for eateries on
the street. That explains why signature Tet
dishes like bun thang are available every day.
The way the soup is prepared has also been
simplified both in terms of the ingredients

and the cooking process.
If you want to treat yourself, bun thang can
be found on Hang Hanh, Cau Go, Ha Hoi and
Hang Hom. One of the best eateries in town,
however, is at 33 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem.
The name of the dish, bun thang, is
comprised of bun and thang. Bun
means noodles while thang is translated
literally as ladder. However, according to
Ms. Ly, the owner of the eatery on Hang
Hom, thang also comes from the word for
a pack of northern medicinal herbs, or
thang thuoc bac.
Bun thang got its name because it is made
up of a lot of ingredients, a bit like a pack of
thuoc bac, she explains. It is also good for
the health and makes you feel fantastic after
eating a bowl of it.
The broth, the soul of the dish, has a
distinct sweet and light taste. It requires
the cook to stay near the boiling pot to
remove all the impurities created during
the cooking process. The result is a
clear, sweet broth that does not have the

unpleasant odour of pig bones.
But the real secret in the broth lies in the
shrimp paste. The paste is notorious for its
awful smell. However, it is the ingredient
that stimulates the taste of the dish. As the
shrimp paste is put into the broth while
boiling, it is fully cooked and the smell is
erased. It is this that differentiates bun thang
from other types of noodle soup.
After placing the noodles into the bowl,

Ms. Ly carefully arranges the toppings,
using strips of egg, shredded white chicken,
mushrooms, sliced salted radish and fluffy
shredded sea shrimp. Some greens
coriander and parsley are added after
pouring the boiling hot broth into the bowl.
To me, herbs like coriander and
mushroom are very important, says Ms.
Ly. They create a feeling of relief, and
accentuate the earthy taste of the soup.

But according to the traditional recipe,
both the broth and the toppings alone are not
enough to conjure up the right taste of bun
thang. Belostomatidae essence, which is not
easy to find nowadays, is another ingredient
used to spice up the soup.
The bun thang eatery is located at 33 Hang
Hom, Hoan Kiem, and opens from early until late at
night. A bowl costs VND25,000 to VND30,000
Food & drink
MYSTERY DINER
HCMC
Vesper
Location is not everything, but sometimes, food is. Our undercover food reviewer
heads to the recently refurbished yet slightly out-of-the-way Vesper Gourmet Lounge,
and discovers a restaurant working at its very best. Photos by Glen Riley
f dining out is a voyage, then Vesper

whisks you around the globe. Their
audacious blend of Japanese, Spanish,
Mexican, Italian, German, French and
American cuisine shouldnt work, yet
my late-night supper at Vesper was one
of the finest meals Ive enjoyed in years.
From service to decor to food (my god,
the food...), the experience was a tour de
force.
With its dark wood colour-scheme,
sinuous bar top, chill soundtrack and
communal tables, the lounge struck the ideal
note of sociability and relaxation, a German
tavern for 21st-century sophisticates. With a
few ironic touches added in for measure.
Awaiting my date at the bar, I admired
the liquor selection, especially the Scotches.
Whimsically, I sampled a Cappuccino
shooter (VND110,000), a gorgeous, layered
concoction of cinnamon-dashed cream,
Baileys and Kahlua. Drunk in one long pull,
the swirl of flavours flood the mouth, each

taste peaking before blending harmoniously.
Id return for that alone.
Exploring the World

My date arrived; servers ushered us behind
a wood-and-glass partition into the cosily
intimate dining room. The crimson stuffed
chairs sit one comfortably, yet without
requiring struggle to reach the table.
Ordering required detailed exploration of
Vespers imaginative menu. For maximum
variety, we seized upon on a daily special
that should be a regular offering, the
mixed grill for two (VND550,000). For
sides, we chose a small rigatoni alla Buttera
(VND110,000) and spinach spaetzle
(VND90,000). To drink, we selected glasses
of house red the deep, velvety Mas Petit
garnatxa and house white, the Torresella
pinot grigio (VND150,000 each). It was
mellow and refreshingly fruity.
One Bite at a Time

One test of a menu is that most combinations
of dishes should work. Vesper aced it.
Everything fit in a symphony of flavours.
The mixed grill crowned the meal, with
two servings apiece of Wagyu strip steak,
Australian tenderloin, chicken-breast skewers,
lamb chops and German sausages piled on
a wooden board. Served with twin cylinders
of chilled Cafe de Paris, garnished with
rosemary, the meats displayed Vespers skill in
picking the best from around the world.
Every piece of meat was flavourful, juicy,
grilled to perfection. The dense taste and
texture of the Wagyu and the soft, gentle
tenderloin (both dry-aged, like all of Vespers
steaks) demonstrated the vast range that good
red beef can have. The touch of red pepper on
the chicken underscored its delicacy, and the
lamb was a mouth-watering revelation.
The spinach spaetzle, sprinkled with
crispy shallots, seduced my tastebuds with
THE VERDICT
15
FOOD
15
SERVICE
its whirl of cream and tangy cheese. The
rigatoni, served with peas and hearty chunks
of Italian sausage, brought back my visits
to Italy the al dente pasta, the sauce alive
with sweet, acidic tomato and fresh herbs.
We concluded with apple strudel in filo
dough, a clever twist on a classic dessert.
The divine vanilla sauce and hand-whipped
cream provided a cool backdrop to the
crispy dough and hot, spiced apples.
The simple ceramic bowls and minimalist
plating focused attention on the food itself.
Leading the Way

Speaking as a former waiter, Vespers service
staff excels at providing the customer (me,
in this case) with exactly what they want.
Chatty and engaged while I waited for my
date, friendly, full of helpful suggestions,
swift and unobtrusive, their actions set a
standard for other restaurants to follow.
The restaurant manager led by example;
he strolled from table to table, laughing,
suggesting, taking pictures with customers,
passing out banana daiquiri samples,
treating everyone like an honoured guest.
From early till late, whatever cuisine you
prefer, whatever your tastes, Vesper presents
it with a warm smile and a comfy seat.
Open Monday to Saturday from 10am to
midnight, Vesper is located in the Landmark
Building, 5B, Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Ho Chi
Minh City
13
DCOR
Food, Decor and

Service are each
rated on a scale
of 0 to 15.
13 15
extraordinary to
perfection
10 12.5 very
good to excellent
8 9.5 good to
very good
5 7.5 fair to
good
0 4.5 poor
to fair
The Word reviews
anonymously and
pays for all meals
Food & drink

STREET SNACKER
HCMC
Street Sushi
With sushi stalls popping up all over town, Simon Stanley

heads to Saigons seafood hub in search of the original
kerbside Japanese experience. Photos by Glen Riley
rasshaimase! comes the

welcoming call of the staff at
District 4s Sushi Ko as we arrive.
Tucked among Vinh Khanh
Streets endless strip of pavement-based
seafood joints, its an easy one to miss
and we did twice.
But the place is buzzing. Vietnamese,
Japanese and western faces fill the tiny
tables. Over everyones heads a food
counter swarms with uniformed waiting
staff and nimble-fingered sushi chefs.
Browsing the menu (with pictures and
English translations), we find 100 percent
authentic Japanese cuisine, covering
countless sushi styles along with grilled
meat/veg skewers, tempura and beef hot
pots. With its canvas roof, the cracked
pavement underfoot and a steady stream
of peanut vendors rattling their wares over

our shoulders, were still very much in
Vietnamese dining mode. Its a welcome
change to the standard Japanese approach.
Taking It To The Streets

We find ourselves sat next to Taku
Haruyoshi, a Japanese teacher living in
Saigon since 1997. Before Sushi Ko,
he explains, I would always eat in the
restaurants on Le Thanh Ton, but they are
all indoors too quiet, too formal. I prefer
to eat outside like the Vietnamese it is
more relaxed.
To say that Taku is a Sushi Ko regular is
an understatement.
I eat here every day, he says. The
sushi is very cheap, and very delicious.
Taku tells me that since opening in May
2013, the business has grown in popularity

so much that a larger premises is currently
under construction just a few doors away.
Every day, more and more people are
coming here, he says. Japanese, yes, but
lots of Vietnamese too.
Despite an understandable apprehension,
it seems that sushi is slowly weaving its
way onto Saigons dinner tables. Behind
me, three generations of a Vietnamese
family huddle around an ornate spread of
sashimi. The kids are popping the pods
of the umibudo garnish, and grandma
is anxiously nibbling a glossy slither of
tuna as mum and dad look on. With so
much fresh seafood on our doorstep, and
Saigons taste for all things Nihon, it seems
sushi represents an inevitable leap from
traditional street food fare.
Formal Dining, Casual Setting

I realise that accessibility is the key here.
Having perfected her craft in the kitchens
of District 1s Japanese enclave, Sushi Kos
Vietnamese owner is bringing sushi to the
people, with extremely affordable prices in
a familiar, informal environment. The result
is like a Vietnamese version of the Japanese
izakaya, where diners can relax with friends
over beers or sake and graze at their leisure.
With a paperback novel and a VND22,000
can of Sapporo, thats exactly what Taku is
doing tonight.
Having been prepared by hand, from
scratch, our food soon starts to fill the table
between us and were immediately struck
by the beautiful presentation and generous
portions. Each dish is displayed like a work
of art.
It may be crude, but I often judge a
Japanese kitchen on its mixed tempura bowl.
Its easy to do yet difficult to do well. What
Im served here quickly puts Sushi Ko above
many spots in town. The batter is perfect,
as are the contents light and flavoursome
fish with an abundance of vegetables. Gyoza,
edamame and char-grilled pork-wrapped
okra accompany a beautiful selection of
sushi, and our table is flooded with colour.
The quality of the fish comes through in
the first bite the lack of odour proves its
freshness, and having been expertly sliced,
this is a cut of salmon that I will go to bed
dreaming of. Oh-so-tender and then some.
With our eye-poppingly small bill Im
handed a loyalty card. Same time next week,
Taku?
Open daily until 10pm, Sushi Ko is at
122/37/15 Vinh Khanh, Q4, Ho Chi Minh City
fashion
BRAND
AMBASSADORS
Whats beer without the eye candy?
your creepy uncle maybe used to say.
Well the beer companies in Vietnam
have obliged, with helpful ladies
wandering table to table, offering
you ice and generally acting as the
sweetest billboards youve ever
seen.
Well, these ladies dont only

dispense ice here they get a bit
freaky with a lagers best friend.
travel
TRAVEL
INTERNATIONAL
Cruising
What do you do on New Years? Its one of those annual questions.
Nick Ross was lucky to spend it somewhere off the coast of Malaysia
ake a 2,000-or-so passenger Italian

cruise liner, base it out of Singapore
and staff it with Asians. This is
exactly what Costa have done with
their ship, the Costa Victoria, and in doing
so they are catering to an entirely new
market the biggest one in the world.
Cruises are not new to Southeast Asia.
For decades oversized boats from around
the globe have called at the regions biggest
ports. But what is new is the clientele.
In the past it was almost exclusively
older Europeans, North Americans and
Australians making ports of call in this
region. But with greater spending power,
Asians are now joining in the fun. On the
cruise I took over New Years, the make-up
of the passengers was almost exclusively
Asian. But more interesting was the agerange. It wasnt just older people. Here
everyone was holidaying with their families.
My cruise was a media trip altogether
there were 19 of us from Vietnam on the
jaunt. We also came with our families. The
deal was simple. We pay for our flights to
Singapore, the place where we would both
embark and disembark. Costa would do the
rest.
It didnt quite work out like that
everything was put together so quickly that
there was a distinct lack of organisation. But
there were so many highlights to our cruise,
which called at Phuket, Langkawi and
Penang before returning to Singapore, that
our five days aboard this kitsch yet luxury
18-year-old liner was one to remember.

Even the constant repetition of Jingle Bells
and Rudolf the Red-Nosed Reindeer over the
sound system, Costas homage to Christmas,
embedded itself firmly in the experience.
We wondered if after New Years Eve
they would change the mix tape. To our
amusement, they didnt.
Snapshots
One of the best memories was the day
in Phuket we landed just off the coast
from Patong Beach. I expected our eight
hours onshore to bring me face to face with
everything I dislike about holidaymaking in
Thailand. It did.
Patong is Thailands answer to Balis Kuta.
Same concept, different countries except
the loud tourists here are Russians.
Yet with so little time to explore, there
was a sense of adventure to our wonderings
around the town, and our people-watching
on the municipal beach. For a day, this place
was perfect.
The next morning we woke at sunrise to
the sweeping island views of Langkawi.
The weather that day was the best of our
trip. With the clear blue sky above, the
tropical land and seascape was out of a
postcard. From the rainy, overcast weather
that blighted the first day of the cruise, the
journey was coming alive.
On New Years Day we docked at
Georgetown, Penang. Few cities in Southeast
Asia can match this former colonial outpost
for its architecture, multi-cultural variety

and street food. Returning here for the first
time in 15 years, I was so entranced that I
walked 20km back and forth across the city
centre. After so much buffet food on the
ship, I needed the exercise.
The crowning moment, though, was
the night before New Years Eve. When
you dont really know the people youre
spending time with, this night of celebration
can act as the perfect occasion to build
friendships and break barriers; we went
wild. Even the kids with us joined in the
celebrations, swapping coke for beer in their
improvised drinking games.
Led by Costas entertainment staff,
as 11.59 clicked into midnight, the
ship erupted. Everyone Filipino,
Indonesian, Chinese, Japanese, Italian,
Vietnamese broke into song and dance.
Hugs with friends, hugs with strangers,
champagne, dancing, singing, more hugs,
more champagne. For a short moment all
inhibitions were put aside.
It was electric.
For more information on the Costa Victorias
cruises, go to costacruisesasia.com. There is
presently a deal on a four-night cruise out of
Shanghai departing in March. The cruise makes
stops in Japan and South Korea. Full board
accommodation starts at US$579 (VND12.2
million) per person
travel
TRAVEL
INTERNATIONAL
A Day in Penang
Located on the Malaysian island of Penang,
Georgetown is one of the most unique
cities in Southeast Asia. Nick Ross goes on
a whistle-stop trip to a city that was once a
key part of the British Empire
he ache in my head is saying to me,

what am I doing here on New Years
Day? Ive only had a few hours sleep
and the historic Malaysian city of
Georgetown is deserted.
But as I walk alone into the section of the
city known as Little India, I see a parade. No
its not a parade. Its an 8am-on-New-YearsDay city walk, with brass band in tow
everyone wearing white T-shirts.
My heart and head lifts. If they can do an
early morning on New Years Day, then so
can I. But the thought is not enough for that
ache to go away. So I dive into a nasi kandar
joint and get a breakfast of roti telur hybrid
Malay paratha with egg and a lentil dipping
curry on the side. I add to it a hot coffee with
condensed milk. Oh so good. So damn good.
Penang and in particular its largest city,
Georgetown, is known for its street food.

This simple yet moreish dish of fried bread
and curry provides momentary relief. But as
I eat I am shaking my head. What the hell are
all these people doing up so early on New
Years Day? Then again, what the hell am I
doing up so early?
Ive only got a few hours in this former
colonial city. Once forming an axis of
ports with Malacca and Singapore, an axis
that eventually became British Malaya,
it has somehow maintained its colonialera mystique. Yet, its not quite colonial
Georgetown has Indian sections,
Malay sections and Chinese sections. And
each ethnicity has placed its mark both
architecturally and socially on the makeup of
this city.
This is what Singapore looked and felt like
before the Lion City went into modernisation

overdrive.
Street Food
After a couple of hours I find myself in a
little market in Chinatown and wander into
a traditional food court selling Penang street
food. Although Im no longer hungry, I try
some of the dishes. The curry mee with its
coconut curry sauce and boiled clams I
normally hate clams is to die for. So is the
koay teow thng, the egg and rice noodle soup.
The tai lok mee, with its thick black, glutinous
sauce, is less appealing.
Ive been to Penang before, in 1999, on my
way to Sumatra in Indonesia. I got bowled
over by Georgetowns charm even then. And
as I wander down a road strangely titled
Love Lane, I stop. Ive recognised something.
This is where I stayed last time, I realise,

as I look up at the row of partly restored
Chinese shophouses. The memories start to
flood back. An Israeli couple were staying
in the same guesthouse Israelis cant get
into Malaysia but they were travelling on
Brazilian passports. And then I remember the
guesthouse manager and the most prevalent
memory, the tandoori chicken we had in
Little India. Id never eaten chicken so good
in my whole life. In Georgetown, it seems,
everything comes back to food.
And history.
The Fort
My time in Penang is almost up and I head
to Fort Cornwallis, the original site of British
imperialism. A walled city defended by
cannon, it was first built by the British East
India Company in the late 18th century.

Representative of the British expansion into
Malaysia, the fort was initially constructed
after Britain took possession of Penang Island
from the Sultan of Kedah in 1786. It has since
been rebuilt and rebuilt.
Inside the fort theres not much to see
beyond bunkers and walls, but some tourists
are lining themselves up against statues
of former British dignitaries. Others are
hugging the cannon, taking tourist photos to
send back to friends and relatives.
I try to find out who Cornwallis was, but
there is no information. Later I discover he
was the former governor-general of Bengal
in India. But it doesnt seem so important.
What is important is the symbolic connection
between Asia and Europe. Without this
connection, Georgetown wouldnt be the city
it is today.
As I leave, passing the clock tower
dedicated to Queen Victoria, I realise my
head is no longer throbbing. It may be New
Years Day, a time when I should be in bed,
but my whistle-stop tour of Georgetown
has been worth the headache and the lack
of sleep.
This is a place with a little something for
everyone.
Getting There
Almost all the regional airlines operate
flights to Penang out of Bangkok,
Kuala Lumpur and Singapore. The
best rates can be found with A IR A SIA
and T IGER A IRWAYS .
travel
TRAVEL
DOMESTIC
In Search of the
Super Cave
Or, how Ed Weinberg went looking for

Southeast Asias largest volcanic cave
and got scraped up, sunburned, lost his lens cap
and generally complained a lot
or anyone looking to get a jump

on the tourists soon to flow to
Southeast Asias largest volcanic
cave system, I have some advice:
wait till its paved.
While not super fun advice, I did stop
taking directions at about the third felled tree
bridge over a pit of thorn bushes we crossed.
At the end of our four-hour trek, I was
slipping on these scary log bridges, crawling
along at times, while the sandal-wearing rest
of our party waited good-naturedly ahead. I
can still feel the indignity of it all.
Okay, listen, if I have any advice, its
this: dont threaten to quit hiking, saying
something along the lines of I will actually
fall and break my leg if I cant rest soon!
when youre a scant 500 metres from the end
of the trail. Dont be that guy. That guy gets
advice like, You should get married and
have a son, and he can be adventurous like
me. That guy is old.
How I Got Suckered In

In the days previous, the payoff-to-effort
ratio was quite high. Navigate a bumpy
road, navigator at the back; see a stupendous
waterfall canyon, no one else around. I
didn't remember too many hikes at Yosemite
turning out like this.
My first venture into Dak Nong Province
had been a day trip from nearby Buon
Ma Thuot, the coffee capital of Vietnam.
The volcanic cave

system discovered
in Dak Nong is
no joke. Officially
announced on Dec.
26 of last year, the
25km-long cavern
system was the
result of reverse
lava eruptions from
millions-of-yearsold volcanoes The
longest of these
caves, C7, is good
for the longest in
Southeast Asia
How to Hike in Sandals

I looked on a few hiking blogs (though
what I was really looking for was a How
Do Asians Hike in Flip-Flops? post that I
could crib from), but their advice doesnt
really apply here. Take smaller steps?
Always look where youre stepping? My
trail partners werent doing any of that.
Instead, they were stepping
surefootedly on the rocks scattered all
along the trail, trusting their feet, keeping
their centres of balance while parting the
thick vine overhang that occasionally had
little hooked thorns running through. I was
pinwheeling forward, looking for trees to
support my steps, fighting with the vines
after theyd already ensnared me.
I watched their techniques and tried
to be mindful. I had been putting too
much effort into making sure my footing
was secure, and later in the hike I got a
little wobbly. I convinced myself it was a
mental thing. It worked for a while. Then I
went back to my old habits, all the while
cursing beneath my breath.
Actually, call it a half-day trip Dray Sap

Falls is just 20km from downtown. Carrying
a couple beers from the commissary we
walked a paved 1.5km, occasionally having
to navigate cracks. At the area that serves as
the main viewpoint for the falls, we ignored
the dilapidated gazebo for a closer-by cluster
of boulders. Perched on sharp-angled rocks,
drinking our 333s, my friend Hien told me
not to dangle my legs there could be
snakes lurking.
That was about all the danger that I was
prepared for when I met up with Giang. A
former barman at Dalats V Caf, Giang was
happy to practise his English and show a
tourist around his former stomping grounds.
He even had a friend, who had another
friend, who knew the caves; all the local
people do, thats where they go to hunt bats.
The first day, Giang, his brother and his
friends brother took me to Dray Nur the
much nicer waterfall of the two. He was
right, it was. In the non-rainy season, the
water falls in sheets and cascades over a
canyon rim some 200 metres in length. In the
rainy season, almost every ledge of the rock
face is overrun by the flow.
When I suggested hiking past the
viewpoint, Giang perked up, giving me
that oh, you have a lot of energy! type
compliment that all us western fatties should
be used to. Nevertheless, I probably blushed

a little. Im not like all those other lazy
sightseers, am I?
The Last Frontier

The caves are the last undiscovered
continent, Salzburg Universitys Professor
Edgar Dachs said about a cave complex in
Germany that dwarfs the one scientists have
found in Dak Nong. You can discover new
unexplored territory here like Christopher
Columbus.
Though theyre not quite the Riesending
caves (German for giant thing), the volcanic
cave system discovered in Krong No District
of Dak Nong is no joke. Officially announced
on Dec. 26 of last year, the 25km-long
cavern system was the result of reverse
lava eruptions from millions-of-years-old
volcanoes whose existence was previously
unknown.
The longest of these caves, C7, is 1,066.5
metres long, good for the longest in
Southeast Asia. The second longest cave in
the system, C3, weighs in at 594.4 metres,
second longest in Southeast Asia. With the
reputation Son Doong has gained tourismwise, the as-yet-unsnappily-named cave
complex figures to put one of Vietnams
poorest provinces on the tourism map.
The floor of C7 is very beautiful, with
many patterns, and looks like the surface

of a lava flow. There are many stalactites
and different branches in the cave, said Dr.
Tsutomu Honda, part of the Japan Caving
Association team that participated in the
seven years of research needed to get to this
point.
So of course I was going to go.
Trust Fund for Forests, an NGO working
in the area, didnt get back to me. Neither
did the General Department of Geology
and Minerals of Vietnam. So it was down to
Giangs friend-of-a-friend, who told us hed
been to the big cave once a year for as long
as he could remember.
If Id read the internet literature a little
more closely which describes Dr. Honda
spelunking down from the roof of a cavern
large enough to contain trees I would
have known to bring more than tennis shoes.
Shambling Toward Enlightenment

The start of the day was promising enough.
We took the right forking road after the Dray
Sap entrance, down 6km of a country road
that had water buffalo grazing, turning right
onto a dirt road. It was bumpy on the back of
Giangs bike, but not too bumpy. We parked,
and 300 metres into a thin-leafed forest
found our first cave.
Only Giang would accompany me further
than the first stretch the others had

trouble breathing (or were scared of ghosts).
So I felt well and good, prowling the cave
in search of the perfect stalactite picture.
We saw a big spider. I had a brief daydream
of finding some cave drawings, which
the scientists had somehow missed and
everyone else was too scared to discover! I
saw another spider, and somehow missed
three bats flying past my head.
We reached a dead end, then joined the
others and headed back to the bikes. We
headed further up the road.
You already know about the damn fourhour hike in which I lost my lens cap (a
rite of passage, Im told), said something
along the lines of it wouldnt matter if Id
have known wed be hiking this much
when people in the US go hiking through
a jungle like this, they take machetes! and
cried on the inside.
There were some clearings, complete with
piled stone walls running alongside, which
Giang told me were signs we were on track.
And thats when I stopped complaining...
for like a minute, I think. The people whod
been coming here all these years didnt want
clear trails, and letting the trail go wild was
their way of preserving it.
Giang hung back with me, making bird
calls when we needed fresh direction. At
one point, while I fumbled with the 1.5-litre

bottle of water hanging from my belt (the
other guys had one bottle to split between
them), Giang crawled the length of an
upended tree toward some wild orchids. He
took all five of rare plants, carrying them in
front of him, and somehow still managed to
get less tangled than I did.
We made steady progress until one point,
a seeming dead end into an impenetrable
thicket. We spent 20 minutes trying different
approaches, all while those damn bird
songs echoed ahead of us. If we could have
actually turned into birds our problems
would have been solved, but we could
only make impotent little oooh-oooh
sounds. After Giang asked for more specific
instructions, we both slapped our foreheads
the answer was the same as the answer to
everything else, just go through.
Fast-forward past the slipping on logs,
the various stages of pleading, and the
most guttural adding of the word lam onto
the question Anh met? that youve ever
heard, and we made it out. Now we were
all smiling, even though wed completely
missed the point of our trek.
On the way back to the main road, we
stopped again. The guys waved me back into
the forest, where there was another cave.
How far? 50 met. Warily, I headed back in.
And there, just 50m from the roadside,

was a little pothole of a cave, sunk into the
forest floor. Two of the guys had squeezed
their way in, and were throwing rocks into
the water that filled the inside.
I ignored my aching muscles and slid
in beside them. There were perfect, bluish
stalactites, hanging daintily from the low
roof, 5cm long; a golden light illuminating
the far end of the cave, some 10 metres away.
It wasnt the longest cave in Southeast Asia,
but it was wondrous enough.
Getting There
My VietJet flight to Buon Ma Thuot was
super cheap VND1.2 million roundtrip all told. From Buon Ma Thuot, rent a
bike or take a VND30,000 bus to Cu Jut,
which is the crossroads to the Dray Sap
falls, and the warren of caves awaiting
someone who is definitely not me.
On the Dak Lak Province side, Dray
Nur awaits although Giang showed
me a sneaky break in the chain link
blocking the end of the crumbling bridge
youll encounter on your way to Dray
Sap. Mind the razor wire.
travel
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DALAT
ANA MANDARA VILLAS
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Le Lai, Dalat, Tel: (063)
3555888
anamandara-resort.com
DALAT PALACE
$$$$
12 Ho Tung Mau, Dalat, Tel:
(063) 382 5444
dalatpalace.vn
tours of the serene Halong

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night trips with a wide range
of cabin styles: standard, deluxe, or royal.
CUC PHUONG
$
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Binh, Tel: (030) 384 8006
cucphuongtourism.com
EMERAUDE CLASSIC CRUISES,

HALONG BAY
DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL
172 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat,
Tel: (063) 382 7999
dalatgreencityhotel.com
Located in central Dalat,
this is the perfect place for
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views from the rooftop, features free Wi-Fi, a TV and
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emeraude-cruises.com
Reproductions, of 19th
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LA FERME DU COLVERT
$$
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Tel: 02183 825662
etoile-des-mers.com
LA VIE VU LINH
$
Ngoi Tu Village, Vu Linh, Yen
Bai , Tel: (04) 3926 2743
lavievulinh.com
MAI CHAU ECOLODGE

DALAT TRAIN VILLA
Villa 3, 1 Quang Trung, Dalat,
Tel: (063) 381 6365
dalattrainvilla.com
Located near the Dalat Train
Station, the Dalat Train Villa
is a beautifully restored, colonial era, two-storey villa.
In its grounds is a 1910
train carriage which has
been renovated into a bar
and cafe. Located within 10
minutes of most major attractions in Dalat.
TRUNG CANG HOTEL
$
22 Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat, Tel:
(063) 382 2663
AROUND HANOI
BEST WESTERN PEARL RIVER
HOTEL
$$$
KM 8 Pham Van Dong, Duong
Kinh, Hai Phong, Tel: (031)
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pearlriverhotel.vn
BHAYA CRUISES, HALONG BAY
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bhayacruises.com
Experience breathtaking
Na Phon, Hoa Binh, Tel: (04)

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maichau.ecolodge.asia
Occupies a private hill in Na
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roughly 135km southwest of
Hanoi Mai Chau Ecolodge
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MAI CHAU LODGE
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maichaulodge.com
NOVOTEL HA LONG BAY
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TAM COC GARDEN RESORT

Hai Nham, Ninh Hai, Hoa Lu,
Ninh Binh. Tel: (030) 249
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contact@tamcocgarden.
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tamcocgarden.com
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HANOI - INTERNATIONAL
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$$$
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crowneplazawesthanoi.com
This premier five-star
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DAEWOO HOTEL
360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3831 5555
www.hanoi-daewoohotel.
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This enormous structure
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the events staff is well
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FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI

6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
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www.fortuna.vn
This 350-room four-star set
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Set to the west of town, Fortuna often offers business
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to hold meetings, presentations and celebrations.
HOTEL DE LOPERA
29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 6282 5555
contact@hoteldelopera.com
Resting just a step away
from the Opera House, the
hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to create a contemporary space.
The first boutique five star
in the heart of Hanoi, the
lavish, uniquely designed
107 rooms and suites contain all the mod cons and
are complimented by two
restaurants, a bar and complimentary Wi-Fi.
HILTON GARDEN INN HANOI

20 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan
Kiem, Hanoi, Tel (04) 3944
9396
hanoi.hgi.com
With 86 fully-equipped
guestrooms and suites, this
is the first Hilton Garden
Inn property in Southeast
Asia. Centrally located and
a short stroll from the historic Old Quarter, the hotel
offers a full service restaurant, a stylish bar, along with
complimentary business and
fitness centres making it
perfect for the international
business or leisure traveller.
HILTON HANOI OPERA

1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem,
Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 0500
hanoi.hilton.com
Situated next to the iconic Hanoi Opera House and a short
stroll from the Old Quarter,
this five-star hotel is a Hanoi
landmark. With 269 fullyequipped rooms and suites,
theres plenty for the discerning business and leisure
traveller to choose from.
INTERCONTINENTAL HANOI
WESTLAKE
1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
6270 8888
www.hanoi.intercontinental.
com
This stunning property built
over West Lake falls in between a hotel and a resort.
Beautiful views, great balcony areas, comfortable,
top-end accommodation and
all the mod-cons make up the
mix here together with the
resorts three in-house restaurants and the Sunset Bar,
a watering hole located on a
thoroughfare over the lake.
Great gym and health club.
JW MARRIOTT HANOI
8, Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu
Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3833
5588
jwmarriotthanoi.com
From the expressive architecture outside to the
authentic signature JW
Marriott services inside,
this Marriott hotel in Hanoi
is the new definition of contemporary luxury. Lies next

door to the National Convention Centre.
Surrounded by lush gardens, sweeping lawns and

tranquil courtyards, this
peaceful property features
picturesque views of West
Lake and is less than 10
minutes from downtown.
In addition to the luxurious
rooms, the hotel offers an
outdoor swimming pool and
great relaxation and fitness
facilities, including a tennis
court and spa. There are well
equipped conference rooms
and a newly refurbished Executive Club Lounge.
MAY DE VILLE OLD QUARTER

43/45/47 Gia Ngu, Hoan
Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933
5688
maydeville.com
The largest four-star hotel
in Hanois Old Quarter, 110
rooms, a swimming pool, a
top floor terrace bar and a
location just a stones throw
from Hoan Kiem Lake make
this a great choice for anyone wanting a bit of luxury in
the heart of the action.
MELIA HANOI
44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3343
www.meliahanoi.com
Excellently located in central
Hanoi, Melia Hanoi draws
plenty of business travellers and is also a popular
venue for conferences and
wedding receptions. Stateof-the-art rooms, elegant
restaurants, stylish bars,
fully equipped fitness centre with sophisticated service always make in-house
guests satisfied.
MVENPICK HOTEL HANOI

83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3822 2800
www.moevenpick-hanoi.
com
With its distinctive French
architecture and top end service, Mvenpick Hotel Hanoi
is aimed squarely at corporate travellers. An all-day
restaurant and a lounge bar
are available to satiate their
clientele while the kinetic gym
and wellness studio offer an
excellent range of equipment.
Massage and sauna facilities
are available for guests seeking to rejuvenate. Of the 154
well-appointed rooms and
suites, 93 are non-smoking.
PULLMAN HOTEL
$$$$
40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3733 0808
pullman-hanoi.com
With deluxe rooms and
suites, a contemporary
lobby, an excellent buffet,
and a la carte restaurant,
this Accor group property
is prestigious and close to
the Old Quarter.
SHERATON
K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000
www.sheraton.com/hanoi
SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE

HANOI
15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3826 6919
www.sofitel.com
The finest hotel of the French
colonial period is probably
still the finest in todays Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was)
anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where
the service is impeccable
and the luxurious facilities
complement the ambiance of
a bygone era. Definitely the
place to put the Comtessa up
for a night.
SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI

1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3823 8888
Boasting Hanois best views
of West Lake, Truc Bach Lake
and the Red River, Sofitel
Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys above the city skyline.
The 5-star hotel features
317 luxurious, comfortable
guestrooms with spectacular lake view or river view
ranking in 7 types from Classic Room to Imperial Suite.
HANOI MID-RANGE
6 ON SIXTEEN
16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem
www.sixonsixteen.com
Another boutique hotel to
grace Hanois Old Quarter,
the six rooms here mix contemporary and fresh with
handicrafts and antique.
Breakfast is included and in
the long, lounge restaurant
on the second floor, homestyle Vietnamese fare is
served up with fresh fruit
juices and Lavazza coffee.
GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL
$$$
109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan
Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3928
6969
goldensilkhotel.com
Located in the centre of the
Old Quarter, this little slice of
heaven offers complimentary sundries and a replenishable minibar. The Orient
restaurant, serves the finest
in international and Vietnamese cuisine.
MAISON DHANOI HANOVA HOTEL

$$$
35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan
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Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 0999
hanovahotel.com
A minute from Hoan Kiem
Lake, this glowing pearl in
the heart of Hanoi provides
tranquility with an art gallery
and piano bar.
MAY DE VILLE
24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 2222 9988
Set in the old French Quarter
a short walk from the Opera
House, May de Ville City Centre is a welcome new addition to the capital. Combining
contemporary architecture
with traditional Vietnamese
style and materials, this elegant property has 81 wellappointed rooms including
four suites.
HANOI BUDGET
HANOI BACKBACKERS HOSTEL
48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3828 5372
www.hanoibackpackershostel.com
Probably the cheapest, European-style hostel in town,
with bunk-style beds mixed
or single-sex dorms starting at VND150,000, plus
a couple of double suites
from VND250,000. A place
to meet like-minded fold in
the Old Quarter.
HCMC - INTERNATIONAL
CARAVELLE HOTEL
$$$$
19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 4999
caravellehotel.com
Winner of Robb Reports
2006 list of the worlds top
100 luxury hotels, the Caravelle houses the popular
rooftop Saigon Saigon bar,
and the restaurants Nineteen and Reflections.
DUXTON HOTEL
$$$
63 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 2999
saigon.duxtonhotels.com
Famous for its daylong
rotatingmenu buffets, the
Duxton deserves luxury appellation with a pool, gym,
spa, and fine dining.
hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn
The five-star hotel and serviced apartment complex
offers: 14 instant offices,
seven meeting rooms, a
600-capacity ballroom, spa,
outdoor swimming pool, a
gym, 24-hour fine dining,
24-hours room service, and
limousine services.
INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA
SAIGON
$$$$$
Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999
intercontinental.com/saigon
In the heart of Ho Chi Minh
City, resides the Asiana with
signature dining options,
an innovative cocktail bar,
exclusive spa and health
club, together with luxury
boutique arcade.
LOTTE LEGEND HOTEL SAIGON
$$$$
2A4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 3333
legendsaigon.com
Immaculate architecture,
spacious rooms, and a fine
selection of fine dining, with
buffets specialising in Americana and Pan-Asian cuisine.
NEW WORLD HOTEL
$$$$
76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
8888
saigon.newworldhotels.com
Former guests include U.S.
presidents two Bushes,
Clinton and K-Pop sensation Bi Rain. An ongoing event
as well as a hotel, New World
is one of the best luxury
stops in town.
PARK HYATT
$$$$$
2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3824 1234
saigon.park.hyatt.com
Fabulous in style, prime in
location, everything one
would expect from the Hyatt.
The Square One and Italianthemed Opera restaurants
have garnered an excellent
reputation, as has the landscaped pool.
PULLMAN SAIGON CENTRE
$$$
242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel:
(08) 3839 7777
equatorial.com/hcm
This massive property
boasts seven dining and
entertainment outlets, a
business centre, meeting
rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa.
The Equatorial also has an
on-site casino.
$$$$$
148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3838 8686
pullmanhotels.com
Recently completed on the
site of the old Metropole,
this upscale, contemporary
property boasts 306 signature rooms combining
design, comfort and connectivity. Innovative cuisine,
a great downtown location
and high-tech meeting venues able to host up to 600
guests make up the mix.
HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON
REX HOTEL
EQUATORIAL
$$$$$
235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3925 7777
$$$$
3829 2185
rexhotelvietnam.com
Brimming with history the
Rexs openair fifthfloor
bar is Saigon highlight. A recent renovation, of this now
five-star property, boasts
designer fashion and a shopping arcade.
RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS
53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3744 4111
riverside-apartments.com
Situated on the banks of the
Saigon River, a 15-minute
scenic boat ride or 20-minute bus ride from town,
Riversides complementary
shuttle services take you
right in the city centre. With
152 fully equipped serviced
apartments, the property
offers special packages for
short-term stay starting at
VND2.1 million per apartment per night for a onebedroom facility.
RIVERSIDE HOTEL
$$$$$
1819-20 Ton Duc Thang,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1417
riversidehotelsg.com
This distinct French architectural wonder offers
complimentary Wi-Fi, airport
pickup or drop off, a 4th floor
ballroom, and authentic Vietnamese cuisine at the River
Restaurant.
SHERATON
$$$$$
88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 2828
sheraton.com/saigon
Sheraton boasts one of
the best locations in town,
with firstclass facilities,
an openair restaurant 23
floors above the city and
a live music venue on the
same floor.
(08) 3829 9201

continentalhotel.com.vn
This charming old hotel has
been fted in literature and
in film. In the heart of Saigon,
this is the first choice to highlight Vietnamese culture.
Airport. With spectacular

city views and a comfortablydesigned outdoor swimming
pool, there is little reason not
to choose this shining star.
NORFOLK HOTEL
ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON
$$$
117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 5368
norfolkhotel.com.vn
Intimate atmosphere and excellent service, this boutique
business hotel is located
minutes from famous landmarks, designer shops, and
is renowned for its fabulous
steaks at its in-house restaurant, Corso.
NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE
$$$
167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel:
(08) 3822 4866
novotel-saigon-centre.com
Novotel Saigon Centre has
a contemporary feel, an
international buffet The
Square a rooftop bar, and
a wellness centre including a
swimming pool, gym, sauna
and spa.
STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL
$$$
144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu
Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3999 8888
starcitysaigon.vn
The newly-built hotel is near
Tan Son Nhat International
HCMC - MID-RANGE
$$
3822 5914
kimdohotel.com
that overlook the bank of

the Saigon River, this is truly
someplace special.
THE ALCOVE LIBRARY HOTEL
$$$
133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh,
Phu Nhuan, Tel: 08 6256
9966
alcovehotel.com.vn
HCMC - BUDGET
EMM HOTEL
DUC VUONG HOTEL
157 Pasteur, Q3
A sleek, contemporary threestar hotel that mixes vintage
appeal and modern chic
thanks to a subdued palette
of white and grey around two
pop colours: azalea pink
and green hot pepper. Part
of the Thien Minh Group that
includes Victoria Hotels and
Buffalo Tours.
$
195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3920 6992
ducvuonghotel.com
Free WiFi offered in every
room. Low prices, friendly
staff, clean rooms. This modern oasis is only a few steps
from the backpackers area.
LAN LAN HOTEL 1 AND 2
$$$
46 and 73-75 Thu Khoa
Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
7926
lanlanhotel.com.vn
THAO DIEN VILLAGE
$$
195 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3744 2222
thaodienvillage.com
A colonialstyle hotel and
spa offers fine Italian, Thai
and Japanese dining. Manicured gardens and a view
DUNA HOTEL
$
167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel:
(08) 3837 3699
dunahotel.com
HONG HOA HOTEL
$
185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3836 1915
honghoavn.com
SINH HUONG HOTEL
$
157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 4648
sinhhuonghotel.com.vn
Josephs Hotel
Foreign-run,boutique hotel
Next to the cathedral
SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA
$$$$
17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 1555
sofitel.com
This 20story building in
downtown Saigon, caters
to upscale business and
leisure travelers seeking a
classic yet contemporary
stay in Saigon.
WINDSOR PLAZA
$$$
18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel:
(08) 3833 6688
windsorplazahotel.com
The full ensemble with its
own shopping hub (including
a bank), fine dining, a sauna,
health club, and superb
panoramic views of the cityscape. Also hosts the largest
Oktoberfest in the region.
HCMC - DELUXE
CONTINENTAL
$$$
132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel:
Free wi-fi, international breakfast,

spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV,
multi-shower, friendly service
www.josephshotel.com
5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446
travel
HOI AN & DANANG
AN BANG BEACH RETREAT
An Bang Beach, Hoi An
www.anbangbeachretreat.
com
CUA DAI
$
544, Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel:
(0510) 386 2231
hotelcuadai-hoian.com/
DANANG BEACH RESORT
$$$
Truong Sa, Hoa Hai, Ngu
Hanh Son, Danang, Tel:
(0511) 396 1800
danangbeachresort.com.vn
FURAMA RESORT AND SPA
$$$$
Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My,
Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel:
(0511) 384 7888
furamavietnam.com
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THE NAM HAI
$$$$
Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village,
Quang Nam, Tel: (0510) 394
0000
ghmhotels.com
Includes three massive
swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant
spa on a lotus pond. Each
massive room has its own
espresso machine, pre
programmed iPod and both
indoor and outdoor showers.
VICTORIA HOI AN BEACH RESORT

AND SPA
Cua Dai Beach, Tel: (0510)
392 7040
victoriahotels.asia
HUE & LANG CO

ANGSANA LANG CO
$$$$
Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da
Nang, Tel: (0511) 398 1234
danang.regency.hyatt.com
The Hyatt Regency Danang
Resort and Spa is beachfront
with a stunning view of the
Marble Mountains. There
are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private ocean villas, each with a private pool.
$$$$
Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien
Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5800
angsana.com/en/lang_co
Located on Vietnams South
Central Coast, Angsana Lang
Co commands an unrivalled
beach frontage of the shimmering East Sea. Traditional
Vietnamese design encompasses the resorts contemporary buildings and chic
interiors.
LE DOMAINE DE TAM HAI
BANYAN TREE LANG CO
HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT AND SPA
$$$
Tam Hai Island, Thon 4, Nui
Thanh, Quang Nam, Tel:
(0510) 354 5105
domainedetamhai.com
LIFE RESORT HOI AN
$$$
1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An,
Tel: (0510) 391 4555
life-resorts.com
MERCURE DANANG
$$$
Lot A1 Zone Green Island,
Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau,
Danang, Tel: (0511) 379
7777
mercure-danang.com
$$$$
Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien,
Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5888
banyantree.com/en/
lang_co
Built on a crescent bay, The
Banyan Tree offers privacy
and unparalleled exclusivity
with all-pool villas reflecting
the cultural and historical
legacy of past Vietnamese
dynastic periods.
LA RESIDENCE
$$$$
5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 383
7475
laresidencehue.com
PHUONG HOANG HOTEL

PULLMAN DANANG BEACH RESORT
$$$$
Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My,
Ngu Hanh Son, Danang
Tel: (0511) 395 8888
pullman-danang.com
Located on the stunning
white sands of Bac My An
Beach, the stylish Pullman
Danang Beach Resort is
an oasis of activities and
facilities for the modern
traveller. With an idyllic setting, this luxury property is
perfect for a family holiday
or romantic beach getaway.
And with extensive function
facilities, Pullman Danang
also provides the a great location for your next incentive
getaway or event.
$
66 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 382
6736
hoangphuonghotel.com
NHA TRANG
EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX
SENSES SPA
$$$$
Beachside Tran Phu, Nha
Trang, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058)
352 2222
sixsenses.com/evasonresorts/ana-mandara/
destination
2.6 hectares of private
beachside gardens and
villastyle accommodation
furnished in traditional native woods, this resort offers verandah dining, a pool
bar and the signature Six
Senses Spa.
JUNGLE BEACH RESORT
$
Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh
Hoa, Tel: (058) 362 2384
junglebeachvietnam.com
On a secluded promontory north of Nha Trang, this
budget place is all about
hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature.
MIA RESORT NHA TRANG
$$$$
Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong,
Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa, Tel:
(058) 398 9666
mianhatrang.com
NOVOTEL NHA TRANG
$$$
50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel:
(058) 625 6900
This four-star hotel with
154 guestrooms, all with
a terrace and sea view.
Complete with a pool, spa,
restaurant, bar and meeting room that caters for up
to 200 delegates.
SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH

VAN BAY
$$$$
Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa,
Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 372
8222
sixsenses.com/resorts/
ninh-van-bay/destination
The upmarket Tatler magazine voted top hotel of 2006.
The location is stunning, on a
bay accessible only by boat.
SHERATON NHA TRANG HOTEL

AND SPA
$$$$
26 28 Tran Phu, Tel: (058)
388 0000
sheraton.com/nhatrang
SUNRISE BEACH HOTEL AND SPA
$$$
1214 Tran Phu, Nha Trang,
Tel: (058) 382 0999
sunrisenhatrang.com.vn
PHAN THIET & MUI NE

NINH CHU BAY BEACH CLUB &
BAR
Hwy 702, Ninh Hai, Phan
Rang, Ninh Thuan, Tel: (068)
627 2727
ninhchubay.com
Enjoy the private beach with
excellent facilities and have a
massage. Evenings are sublime at this beach club, soon
to become a fully fledged
resort. Grilled seafood, European sausages, sangria,
draught beer, and specialityinfused vodka all make this
one of a kind destination.
PHAN THIET & MUI NE

ALLEZ BOO BEACH RESORT AND
SPA
$$$$
8 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui
Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062)
374 3777
allezboo.com
This resort offers exotic
Balistyle, thatched roof

honeymoon villas, 55 spacious suites, deluxe rooms,
fresh seafood, Vietnamese
cuisine, Thai and international cuisine, kite surfing
and parasailing.
BLUE OCEAN RESORT
$$$$
384 7322
blueoceanresort.com.vn
life-resorts.com
COCO BEACH
$$$$
384 7111
cocobeach.net
With charming wooden
bungalows, a private beach,
a swimming pool (both with
attached bars) and a French
restaurant, Coco Beach continues to be run by those who
opened it in 1995.
MIA RESORT MUI NE
$$$
Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7440
miamuine.com
PRINCESS DANNAM RESORT

AND SPA
$$$$
Khu Hon Lan, Xa Tan Thanh,
Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan, Tel: (062) 368 2222
princessannam.com
VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT

AND SPA
$$$$
Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet,
Tel: (062) 381 3000
victoriahotels.asia
Another beachfront Victoria
chain, the thatchedroof
bungalows and family villas
are set in exotic gardens
with an infinity swimming
pool, a seafood restaurant, spa, beauty salon and
jacuzzi.
PHONG NHA
EASY TIGER AND JUNGLE BAR
$
Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang
Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7844
easytigerphongnha@gmail.
com
A hostel and street-front bar
all in one. Has a pleasant,
airy atmosphere in the bar
and restaurant area while
the 52 dorm beds four
beds to a room go for
US$8 (VND168,000) each a
night.
HO KHANH'S HOMESTAY
$$
Binh, Tel: 01299 597182
phong-nha-homestay.com
PEPPER HOUSE
$
Tel: 01678 731560
pepperhouse-homestay.com
PHONG NHA FARMSTAY
$$
Hoa Son, Cu Nam, Bo Trach,
Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367
5135
phong-nha-cave.com
The first western-run farmstay in Phong Nha, this wellappointed travellers joint has
a great bar and restaurant
area, a swimming pool out
back and views overlooking
paddy fields and mountains.
Rooms start at VND600,000
for a twin or double, with a
family room for five costing
VND1.4 million a night.
PHONG NHA LAKE RESORT
$$
Khuong Ha, Hung Trach, Bo
Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052)
367 5999
phongnhalakehouse.com
SAIGON - PHONG NHA
$$$
Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7016
sgphongnhahotel@yahoo.
com.vn
PHU QUOC
BEACH CLUB RESORT
$$
Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To,
Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island, Tel: (077) 398 0998
beachclubvietnam.com
A quaint and popular island
guesthouse featuring a
beachside restaurant, and
includes free Wi-Fi. Motorbike rental, boat trips and
tours are easily arranged.
Discount rates during rainy
season.
CHEN SEA RESORT AND SPA
$$$$
Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua
Duong, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang,
Tel: (077) 399 5895
centarahotelsresorts.com
MANGO BAY
$$
Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc,
Tel: 0903 382207
mangobayphuquoc.com
An ecofriendly approach
with a gorgeous beachside
location, the bungalows are
made of rammed earth, no
TVs or telephones (although
Wi-Fi is available). Excellent
sunsets from the beach bar.
SAPA
CAT CAT VIEW HOTEL
$$
Cat Cat Road, Tel: 0203
871946
catcathotel.com
The best view in town from its
bar restaurant, the Cat Cat
Guesthouse is paradise at
very reasonable rates. The
rooms have big windows,
balconies, and log fireplaces.
TOPAS ECOLODGE
$$$
Thanh Kim, Sapa, Lao Cai
Tel: (04) 3715 1005 (Sales)

topasecolodge.com
With its panoramic views of
the surrounding mountains
and valley, Topas Ecolodge
is the perfect place to experience the remoteness and
quiet of the Northern Vietnamese mountains the
landscape, the fresh air and
the ethnic peoples. Guests
stay in private bungalows
with dinner served in a local
stilt house restaurant.
TOPAS ECOLODGE
$$
24 Muong Hoa, Sapa, Tel:
0203 872404
topasecolodge.com
For the environmentally
conscientious, 25 individual
lodges rest on hills overlooking valleys. Employing solar
technology and a wastewater facility, the Topas also
organises treks and bicycle
tours.
VICTORIA SAPA
$$$
Tel: 0203 871522
victoriahotels.asia
VUNG TAU & HO TRAM

BINH AN VILLAGE
$$$$
1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel:
(064) 335 1553
binhanvillage.com
CON DAO RESORT
$$
Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con
Dao, Vung Tau, Tel: (064)
383 0939
condaoresort.vn
HO TRAM BEACH RESORT AND

SPA
$$$$
Tel: (064) 378 1525
hotramresort.com
This attractive property is
the ideal getaway from Ho
Chi Minh City. 63 uniquely
bungalows and villas promise a local experience complete with an excellent spa
and two swimming pools.
HO TRAM SANCTUARY
$$$$
Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau,
Tel: (064) 378 1631
sanctuary.com.vn
The spacious villas come
with their own pool and have
direct access to the beach.
Extras include tennis courts,
a mini supermarket, and cycling and motorbike tours.
REX HOTEL
$$
1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau, Tel:
(064) 385 2135
rexhotelvungtau.com
SIX SENSES CON DAO
$$$$
Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria-Vung
Tau, Tel: (064) 383 1222
sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao
travel
THE GRAND-HO TRAM STRIP
Phuoc Thuan Commune,
Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria-Vung
Tau, Tel: (064) 378 8888
thegrandhotramstrip.com
The Grand - Ho Tram Strip
is Vietnams first large
scale integrated resort and
ultimately will include a
1,100-room five-star hotel,
a world-class casino, restaurants, high-tech meeting
space, an exclusive VIP area,
as well as a variety of beachfront recreation activities.
The first 541-room tower
of this development opened
in July 2013 with its casino
including 90 live tables and
614 electronic game positions. The second 559-room
tower is on track to open in
2015.
TRAVEL SERVICES HANOI

BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY (BTA)
94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist.,
Ha Noi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702
travelagency.hn@buffalotours.com
www.buffalotours.com.vn
A boutique Travel Agency at
the service of all Vietnamese
and expatriate residents
in Vietnam offering easy,
hassle-free travel around
the world and in Vietnam,
with the highest standards
of customer care. This
premium Travel Agency
has been created to help
travelers select their destinations and organize their
trips, take care of the timeconsuming procedures and
ensure that all journeys are
enjoyable and successful.
BTA customizes leisure and
corporate travel plans while
offering a selected range of
small group tours.
EXO TRAVEL
66A Tran Hung Dao, Hanoi,
Tel: (04) 3828 2150
exotravel.com
A one-stop, all-in-one travel
agency with an extensive
operational track record in
the Indochina region and
beyond. Providing up-market
services, Exotissimo brings
their clients close to culture
through personalised tours.
Also find travel desks at the

Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinental hotels, which
are open on weekends and
holidays.
HANDSPAN TRAVEL
78 Ma May, Hanoi, Tel: (04)
3926 2828
www.handspan.com
Established in 1997, Handspan provides customers
with safe, high quality, diverse, small-group adventure tours to both popular
and isolated locations in
Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Has a focus on off-thebeaten-track sustainable
and responsible tourism
initiatives. Also provides to
excursions to more wellworn destinations.
HG TRAVEL
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3944 8844
www.hgtravel.com
Travel company specialising
in small-group tours around
Vietnam and further afield in
Indochina. Is also the sole
representative agent for
Kenya Airways (for 40 cities
in Africa www.kenya-airways.com), American Airlines
(www.aa.com) and Turkish
Airlines (www.thy.com).
INDOCHINA LAND
61 Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3715 2852
www.indochina-land.com
Indochina Land is a French
local travel agency for
expatriates and tourists
who want to see northern
Vietnam in a personal and
tailored way. Think small
knowledgeable teams of
Vietnamese and French
who share their passion for
discovery during varied itineraries, usually focused on
freedom, family, health trips
and classic home stays. They
will show you around Ha Giang, too.
INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM

57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba
Dinh, Tel: 0904 193308
www.intrepidtravel.com/
vietnamsales
Intrepid Travel Vietnam is
an international travel company operating in Vietnam
since 1992, offering innovative day tours, short breaks
and small group adventures.
With expert guides and guaranteed departures, Intrepid
focuses on real life experiences in Ho Chi Minh City,
Hanoi, Mekong Delta, Halong
Bay, Sapa and beyond to get
you up close to Vietnams
people, cuisine, history and
culture.
SYRENA CRUISES
51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3719 7214
www.syrenacruises.com
If youre thirsty for a Halong Bay experience while
enjoying luxury comfort,
Syrena Cruises could be the
quencher youre looking for.
Forget drinking games and
backpackers by relaxing on
one of the two wooden boats
from the fleet. Alone, as a
couple or with a group, 34
luxurious cabins and suites
are all ready for action. All
you have to do is decide on
how long you want to holiday for.
TRAVEL SENSE ASIA

Suite 8, 2nd Floor, 103 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh, Hanoi
Tel: (04) 3715 3977
kien@travelsense.asia
A homegrown travel agency providing small group
journeys and tailor-made
holidays to Vietnam, Laos,
Cambodia, Myanmar and
Thailand. Voted in Trip Advisors Top 10 of best tours in
Hanoi since 2010.
travel to small group tours,

explore the world or Vietnam.
CHUDU24 HOTEL BOOKING

SERVICE
12th floor, 242 Cong Quynh,
District 1, HCMC
Call center: 1900 5454 40
www.en.chudu24.com
info.en@chudu24.com
Chudu24.com - the locally
famous Vietnam hotel booking website now has an English version. The company is
known for having the best
prices and reliable service.
If you are looking for great
local deals and insightful advice then visit Chudu24.com.
It has been the #1 Vietnam
hotel booking service for Vietnamese people since 2008.
EXO TRAVEL
41, Thao Dien, Q2. Tel (08)
3519 4111, Ext. 15/17/19
exotravel.com
A reliable and experienced
travel company operating
through Southeast Asia,
Exotissimo brings you personalized tours across the
region, many including insights into culinary customs,
handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives.
Flight travel services, including global travel management, domestic and international air booking and travel
insurance, to corporate
companies, family and individual travelers.
GINKGO VOYAGE
1st Floor, 130 Nguyen Cong
Tru, Q1, HCMC
Tel: (08) 3914 3344
ginkgovoyage.com
Offers a full range of quality travel services to both
domestic and international
travellers, including private
and customized tours, small
group tours, hotels bookings
as well as corporate travel
/ MICE solutions in Vietnam
and further. Email info@
ginkgovoyage.com for info.
TERRAVERDE
12/20 Nguyen Canh Di,
Ward 4, Tan Binh District,
Tel: (08) 3984 4754
terraverdetravel.com
If you like cycling through
the Mekong Delta, trekking
in the highlands, or lazing in
a junk on Ha Long Bay all
while making a difference in
peoples lives then this
company will suit you well.
FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY
VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE

(08) 3824 7744
flightravelco.com
169A De Tham, Q1, Tel:

01222 993585
vietnamvespaadventure.
com
Vespa Adventure offers
multiday tours of southern
and coastal Vietnam on the
back of a luxury motorbike
powered by clean, renewable biodiesel. Englishspeaking tour guides lead
the way.
TRAVEL SERVICES ELSEWHERE

BACK OF THE BIKE TOURS
Tel: (08) 6298 5659
backofthebiketours.com
Offer motorbike tours combined with the finest street
food to give customers a
truly immersive Vietnamese
experience.
BEENINASIA.COM
www.beeninasia.com
info@beeninasia.com
Online travel in Southeast
Asia. Offers you selection of
best hotels and great tours.
Create your own trip or we
can tailor make your itinerary.
MANTA SAIL TRAINING CENTRE

108 Huynh Thuc Khang, Mui
Ne, Tel: 0908 400108
mantasailing.org
TU TRAVEL
60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho
City, Tel: 0713 752436
tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn
TRAVEL SERVICES HCMC

BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY
70-72 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem,
Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702;
157 Pasteur, Q3, Ho Chi
Minh City, Tel: (08) 3827
9170
www.buffalotours.com
This premium travel agency
helps travelers select their
destinations and organize
their trips. From corporate
Hanoi
COFFEE CUP // RECALLING HANOI // TOP EATS // FOOD PROMOS // THE ALCHEMIST // THE
THERAPIST // MEDICAL BUFF // BOOK BUFF
PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA
hanoi
business
BUSINESS GROUPS / CORPORATE SERVICES / INSURANCE / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / LANGUAGE SCHOOLS /

MANAGEMENT TRAINING / MARKET RESEARCH / RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS / SERVICED APARTMENTS
BUSINESS GROUPS
ICHAM
Sofitel Plaza, Ground floor, 1
Thanh nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3715 2229
icham.org
The Chamber has the main
purpose of undertaking activities to support commercial exchanges with Italy and
to assist economic agents,
as well as to foster the developmew nt of economic
relations and cooperation
among entrepreneurs of
the various countries. The
Chamber will not engage in
commercial activities with
the aim of producing profits.
CCIFV
Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh
Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715
2229
ccifv.org
A business group with over
240 members that supports the French business
community in Vietnam by
listening to their members
needs and expectations. Also
promotes Vietnam to French
companies and helps them in
developing their businesses
here.
EUROCHAM
G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1
Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3715 2228
eurochamvn.org
A confederate organisation
with strong ties to national
business associations in its
member countries, Eurocham looks after and provides advice and support
for the business interests of
European Union members in
Vietnam.
INDOCHINA RESEARCH LTD
MARKET RESEARCH
xavier@indochinaresearch.
com
indochinaresearch.com
Active in Vietnam for more
than 20 years, Indochina
Research has the capacity to
run large research projects
in the country, for commercial and social purposes.
CORPORATE SERVICES
ENDO
79, Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3783 2085
endo.vn
Endo offers garment manu-
facturing for local resorts,

restaurants, hotels, golf
courses, travel agencies
and apparel shops. They
also manufacture giftware
from polos and hoodies to
keychains, card holders and
menu covers.
INSURANCE
IF CONSULTING
CCIFV/Eurocham, Sofitel
Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3936 5370
Emergency: 0903 732365
insuranceinvietnam.com
Specialises in medical, employee benefits and personal
lines insurance advice to expatriates. The company has
been operational in Vietnam
since 1994 and offers free
advice and comparative
quotes.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS
BRITISH INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL, HANOI
Hoa Lan Road, Vinhomes
Riverside, Long Bien, Hanoi
Tel: 04 3946 0435
www.bishanoi.com
The British International
School (BIS) Hanoi, is a selective, independent, co-educational day school. It provides
a British style education for
an international student
body operating from a modern purpose-built campus
in the vibrant and cultured
city of Hanoi. The National
Curriculum for England, International General Certificate of Secondary Education
(IGCSE) and Advanced Level
(A Level) are taught to English speaking students from
Pre-School to Year 13. The
International Baccalaureate
(IB) Diploma will, pending IB
authorization, be offered
from 2016 onwards.
CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL HANOI
CMC Building, Duy Tan, Cau
Giay, Tel: (04) 3795 8878
concordiahanoi.org
International brand, Concordia, has highly performing
schools in both Hong Kong
and Shanghai at the top tier
of the educational system.
All instructors and teachers
are native English speakers
and admission applications
are accepted throughout
the year.
ETONHOUSE INTERNATIONAL
KINDERGARTEN HANOI
3rd floor, Tower A, Keangnam Landmark, DinhNghe,
Me Tri. Tel: 0965 588888
etonhouse.edu.vn
Thanks to a unique curriculum used in over 100
schools, a stimulating and
motivating environment, and
a child-centred approach,
children at Eton House make
rapid progress and achieve
their maximum potential.
Classes offeredfor students
aged 18 months to 6 years
and there isan Open Door
Policy at all times.
HANOI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

48 Lieu Giai , Ba Dinh
hisvietnam.com
With schooling available for
students studying at the elementary through to secondary levels of education, HIS is
one of the few private, international education options
in the capital. The institution
offers Cambridge IGCSE and
IB Diploma for students at
the secondary level. Located
near the Japanese Embassy.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF
VIETNAM
6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai, Dai
Kim Urban Area, Dinh Cong,
Hoang Mai, Tel: 3540 9183
www.isvietnam.org
The International School of
Vietnam (ISV) is a not-forprofit, Pre-Kindergarten to
Grade 12 school serving the
international and local community of Hanoi. ISV accepts
students of any nationality
aged 3 and up. ISV offers
an international education
experience. Highly qualified
and experienced international educators are supported by a 21st-century
campus with the latest in
educational technology
plus excellent resources
for learning. Class sizes are
small.
kinderworld.net
Classes are kept small with
a foreign teacher leading the
class with the assistance of a
Vietnamese teacher according to the teacher-student
ratio. KinderWorld provides
pre school education for
children from 18 months to
below 6 years.
QSI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF

HANOI
#17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6418
hanoi.qsi.org
With nearly four decades of
experience in international
education, QSI International
School of Hanoi is next in the
long line of quality schools
that have been established
by the Quality Schools International. The institution
specialises in instructing
pre-school and lower elementary age students.
SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL (SIS)
2D Van Phuc Diplomatic
Compound, 46 Van Bao, Ba
Dinh, Tel: 3726 1601; Block
C3, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel:
3758 2664; Dilmah Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel:
3795 1036
www,kinderworld.net/sis
SIS provides international
education for students from
Primary up to University
Foundation Programme. A
strong curriculum combines
the best aspects of the Singaporean, Australian and
Vietnamese curricula, all
taught by qualified teachers.
Runs various co-curricula
activities and prepares
students for internationally
recognised qualifications:
iPSLE, Cambridge IGCSE &
AS/A Level, GAC
Unit 9 10, Shophouse

CT17, Ciputra, Tel: (04) 3743
0360
3rd Floor, 49 Hai Ba Trung,
Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934
7243
C5-C11, 1st Floor, The Manor Building, My Dinh, Me Tri
New Urban, Tu Liem District,
Tel: +84 4 3794 0209
APOLLO
67 Le Van Huu, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3943 2051
Apollo.edu.vn
Established in 1994, Apollo
offers high-quality and costeffective English language
classes including general
English, English for teens,
English for business communication and a pronunciation
clinic. One of the countrys
RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS
BRITISH COUNCIL
20 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3728 1922
britishcouncil.org
The cultural arm of the British governments presence
in Vietnam, the BC offers a
variety of English language
courses business writing, corporate training and
general English in a large
learning centre close to West
Lake.
AGS FOUR WINDS

41A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3938 8762
agsfourwinds.com
A global leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices
globally, we can move your
property to and from any
location.
LANGUAGE LINK VIETNAM

62 Yen Phu, Hanoi, Tel: (04)
3927 3399
languagelink.edu.vn
With four schools around
Hanoi, Language Link runs
international English language courses endorsed by
Cambridge University. One of
the top language centres in
the capital.
MANAGEMENT TRAINING
RMIT
Hanoi Resco Building, 521
Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3726 1460
rmit.edu.vn
A leading international provider of skills training and
professional staff development, RMIT offers both short
and long-term courses,
customised courses, and
can provide for either on or
off-campus clients. Known
for its Business MBA which
is open to both Vietnamese
and overseas students.
ALLIED PICKFORDS
Room 302, 12A Ho Xuan
Huong, Tel: (04) 3943 1511
vn.alliedpickfords.com
The international home
moving company helps
make the burden of moving
a lot easier. As the largest
home moving company in
the world, Allied Pickfords
moves over 1,000 families
in over 175 countries every
day. Available with a full
range of services domestic moves, office moves and
storage whether you are
moving within Vietnam or
across the world.
JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS

6 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04)3826 0334
jvkasia.com
Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods,
JVK is currently a leader in
the field. Has offices in both
Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.
SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES
MARKET RESEARCH
CIMIGO
LANGUAGE SCHOOLS
KINDERWORLD INTERNATIONAL
KINDERGARTEN
leading language centres.
142 Le Duan, Dong Da, Tel:

(04) 3518 6696
vietnam@cimigo.com
cimigolive.com
MARKET RESEARCH
com
Suite 821, Vietnam Trade Hotel, 14 Tran Binh Trong, Hoan

Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 0805
santaferelo.com
With over 150 offices around
the world, Santa Fe offers
local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including
home search, orientation,
cultural training, immigration services and records
management. For more information email Vietnam@
santaferelo.com.
SERVICED APARTMENTS
ATLANTA RESIDENCES
49 Hang Chuoi, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: 0912 239085
hanoi
COFFEE CUP
THE ANNAM CAF
hen you enter the bottom

floor of the Syrena Centre on
Xuan Dieu, you may notice
something different. No,
Im not referring to the sales executives
promoting half-off gym memberships or
the abundance of burly winter coats.
Rather, I am referring to the brand
new Annam Caf. The Annam Gourmet
grocery store that was once in its place
has shifted across the alley, replaced with
a spanking new caf complete with a
working kitchen upstairs, a barista station
and plenty of seating downstairs.
The new caf presents itself as a trendy,
deli-style alternative to the Highlands
branch directly opposite. For one, the
dcor is bright and fresh the floors
are layered with checkered black and
white tiles, the shelves are stocked with
imported gourmet goods (including
gluten-free and organic produce), and the
cafeteria-style furniture provides an eyecatching temptation for weary shoppers.
The menus are presented on trendy
wooden butchers blocks, promising the

allure of antipasto platters heaped with
cured meats, a wide range of foreign
cheeses and light lunch options. For
VND170,000 you can tuck into an Italian
panini filled with sun-dried tomatoes,
fresh mozzarella, Parma ham, olive oil
and basil leaves. Or for those seeking
heartier fare, you may be tempted by the
cafs beef lasagna (VND180,000) or the
smoked salmon salad (VND185,000).
If your budget is tight, head over
to the deli fridges attached to the
barista station and feast your eyes on a
colourful selection of desserts, sourced
directly from the citys top patisseries
and bakeries and ready to accompany
your afternoon coffee. I particularly
recommend ditching the sugar sachet for
a Top Chef vanilla macaron (VND15,000)
if youre craving something sweet.
A Break from the Norm

Your latte doesnt exactly arrive in your
standard, run-of-the-mill coffee mug,
either. Instead, we were presented with

deconstructed lattes artfully poured
into in chic Bodum glasses. A bowl of
madeleines, a shot of water and sugar
cubes accompany the coffee on a sleek
timber tray, adding a nice a personal
touch.
The coffee is brewed to high standards,
as youd expect from a gourmet deli,
and the lattes, while a little bit pricey at
VND70,000, are worth the money if you
have time to stay and soak up the venues
cool vibe and tasty gourmet treats.
The lack of an outside space is a
disadvantage because sometimes you
dont want to have your coffee inside a
busy shopping mall. But that aside, this
may be the ideal place for you to drop
your shopping bags, put your feet up and
tuck into some cheese from the Tyrolean
Alps. David Mann
Annam Caf is at Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan
Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi
hanoi
atlanta.com.vn
Atlanta Residences fully
serviced apartments have
been created to provide a
space where you can feel
at home. Within walking
distance from Hanois Opera
House and Hoan Kiem Lake,
this building offers a panel of
51 spacious apartments for
you to choose from. The serviced apartments here offer
the luxury of a hotel mixed
with the peaceful comfort
and privacy of your home,
under one roof of course.
FRASER SUITES HANOI

(04) 3719 8877
Located in the West Lake
area, Fraser Suites Hanoi
consists of 186 apartments, from studios to four
bedrooms, which meet any
lifestyle. With a calming and
warm interior feel, each
apartment features all the
latest amenities. 24-hour security surveillance provides
peace of mind.
SOMERSET GRAND HANOI

49, Hai Ba Trung, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3934 2342
somerset.com
Internationally-managed accommodation with personalised services and extensive
facilities. 185 fully furnished
apartments, car park, 24hour reception and central
location.
SPORTS GARMENTS
SCORE-TECH
44 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,
Tel: 01203 802832
A 100 percent foreigninvested company offering
personalised sport garments. Using the latest printing technology as well as a
design team from Barcelona,
Score-Tech controls the
whole production process
from producing fabrics and
sewing to printing. Big and
small orders of garments
produced for all sporting
needs.
Do you think you should be

listed on these pages? If so,
simply email us on
listings@wordvietnam.com
and well see what we can
do. We cant promise but
well try our best
old quarter
BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS & YOGA /
GROCERIES & LIQUOR / HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS
BARS & CLUBS

CHEEKY QUARTER
LATE NIGHT LOCAL

1 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
01679 647254
8pm to late
Last building on the right
before Hang Buom, this
popular with the French
(and everyone else) watering hole is a classic. Has
the same Old Quarter vibe;
small, cosy and personal
with funky twists and an
awesome logo. Spread over
two floors with good tunes,
drinks specials and a foosball table, Cheeky is open till
late. Also does tasty paninis
into the early hours.
DRAGONFLY
DANCEHALL LOUNGE
15 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 4926 2177
11am to late
One of the better venues in
the Old Quarter for dancing
on the weekends. Although
crammed into a small space,
cheap drinks and a mix of
chart chits makes Dragonfly
the regular go-to for younger Vietnamese crowds, tourists and the foreign resident
looking to get up on the
dance floor. If you dont feel
like dancing, relax upstairs
with shisha and friends with
one of the two lounges on
the second floor. The sister
venue on Phung Hung has a
bigger menu and an earlier
opening hour (11am instead
of 6pm) but still keeps with
the shisha, pool table and
dance floor combo so popular on Hang Buom.
FATCAT BAR
DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT

0986 495211
linkhanoi.com
4pm to late
Straddling Bia Hoi Corner
and the cobblestoned end
of Ta Hien, FatCat Bar is a
small establishment from the
minds behind the party and
event organisers, LinkHanoi.
The bar has tables filling the
first floor and spilling onto
the sidewalk as well as a
small loft area for lounging.
Nightly cocktail specials, reasonable bottles deals starting
at VND500,000 and a DJ on
the decks make up the mix.
FUNKY BUDDHA
ELECTRO LOUNGE
(04) 3292 7614
8pm to late
HAIR OF THE DOG
LATE NIGHT LOCAL / LOUNGE

32 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
0947 893232
10am to late
HALF MAN HALF NOODLE
LATE DIVE BAR

62 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3926 1943
3pm to late
IRISH WOLFHOUND
IRISH PUB
4 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 2212 6821
irishwolfhoundpub.com
8am to 2am
The open-air watering hole
with seating on the pavement
is a great spot to enjoy a tall
dark stout or light pilsner at
anytime, day or night. What it
lacks in gaudy decorations,
it makes up for with a constant stream of regulars, occasional live Irish music and
billiards on the third floor.
Has a decent food menu and
even better pizzas.
LA BOMBA LATINA
LATIN BAR
46 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: 0917 245155
LE PUB
BRITISH / INTERNATIONAL
RESTOBAR
25 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 2104
7am to midnight
Dark red walls and even
darker brown seating run
through the homely and
casual Le Pub, one of the few
bars in town with a regular
stream of clientele. A long
list of imported beer, Tiger
draft, a decent international
cum Vietnamese food menu,
happy hour specials and live
sport make up the comfortable mix. The venue also gets
involved in the local community through regular events.
MAOS RED LOUNGE
LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR

(04) 3926 3104
MOJITO BAR
CONTEMPORARY COCKTAIL BAR

19 Nguyen Quang Bich, Hoan
Kiem
facebook.com/mojito.bar.
lounge
Decked out in wooden panelling and bare brick, this
tastefully designed watering
whole in the Old Quarter is
known for its prize-winning
bartender and excellent
cocktails
POLITE PUB
LONG BAR
5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3825 0959
5pm to 2am
A bit musty and jaded, despite being one of the oldest
pubs in the city, this staple
watering hole on Bao Khanh
continues to be a hit. Probably the closest thing Hanoi
has to an authentic Englishstyle pub, Polite is frequented by a steady mix of locals
and expats who find solace
in the nightly conversations
at the long bar, billiards and
live football matches.
ROCKSTORE
LIVE MUSIC BAR
01653 336087
Hanoi's home-made, homegrown version of Hard Rock
Cafe without the stigma and
the expensive prices. Nightly
live music or DJing events
are coupled with creative
decor, a selection of Belgian
Beer and a food menu.
SPY BAR
HOLE IN THE WALL / IRISH

12A Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: 0932 373802
TEMPLE BAR
NIGHTCLUB / LATE-NIGHT BAR

Tel: (04) 6675 7908
TET BAR
LATE-NIGHT BAR
2a Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 3050
THE SPOT
LOUNGE BAR / TERRACE

(04) 3935 1874
8am to midnight
CAFES
JOMA
INTERNATIONAL CAFE
28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem
joma.biz
Housed in a two-storey converted, colonial-era villa, the
concept of the third Joma is
the same as at its two other
cafes - fair-trade coffee, payas-you-order at the counter,
and a great selection of
sandwiches, bagels, salads,
cakes, ice-cream and tea.
JOMA BAKERY CAFE
COFFEE/BAKERY
222 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3747 3388
joma.biz
7am to 9pm
With two branches, Joma
has brought a little slice

of home to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the
counter-style service and
atmosphere. The food is
all there too: breakfasts,
salads, soups, ice cream,
muffins, cakes, cereals and
bagels. Starting in Laos in
1996, Joma moved to Hanoi
in 2009. Joma contributes
2 percent of each sale to
charitable organisations.
KINH DO
PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE

252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3825 0216
7am to 8pm
MOCA CAFE
CAFE / INTERNATIONAL
14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.
(04) 3825 6334
8am to 10pm
Set in a deliciously attractive slightly run down colonial villa, the tourist friendly
location gives Moca a large
amount of guidebook-driven
clientele. But dont let this put
you off. The faded but charmingly run down Frenchstyled retro interior, good
WiFi and some of the best
coffee in town makes this
a great spot to while away
a couple of hours. The food
menu mixes Vietnamese fare
with sandwiches, western
and pan-Asian mains.
PUKU
INTERNATIONAL / CAFE
16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1745
Open 24 hours
This spacious spot on food
street is open around the
clock, offering Aussie-inspired comfort food along
with more eclectic Irish
nachos, cottage pies and
pan-Asian fare. Upstairs
is fit for social gatherings
and live music while the nosmoking downstairs space
is filled with people working
and socialising. Serves as
community centre, catering
both to ravenous backpackers whove just arrived off
the night train from Sapa and
locals looking to meet up.
THE CART
SANDWICH SHOP / CAF

10 Tho Xuong, Tel: (04) 3938
2513
thecartfood.com
7.30am to 5pm
Small a cozy caf hidden
on the quietest of Hanoian
streets. Serves and delivers
tasty baguettes, homemade
juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. The delivery

service is quick and reliable,
which makes this lunchtime
favourite ideal for when you
need to eat at the desk.
THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB
CAF / CONTEMPORARY EATERY

6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3938 2117
8am to 11pm
Situated on one of the quieter Old Quarter streets
just off Hang Bong, The
Hanoi Social Club is a cozy
midsize caf/restaurant
where you can forget the
heat and bustle of Hanoi.
The atmosphere is relaxed
and you can imagine, for a
second, that youre sitting
in a European caf. The food
is fresh and internationally
inspired, and the design is
complimented by the work
of Tadiotos Nguyen Qui Duc.
To top it off, the coffee here is
said to be up there with the
best in the country.
CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES

BOO SKATESHOP
SKATESHOP
84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3923 1147
Booskateshop.com
CONTRABAND
CONTEMPORARY WESTERNSTYLE
23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3928 9891
Launched in Hanoi in 2007,
Contraband targets young
hip working women. Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look
after making them ideal for
work and travel. New styles
are introduced each month
with limited production runs,
offering a sense of exclusivity.
LATELIER
WOMENS WEAR & ACCESSORIES

21 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3938 2419
ateliervietnam.com
The downtown store of this
well-known chic boutique.
Stocks womens wear,
leather bags, shoes and
handicrafts. Offers both
ready-to-wear and madeto-fit clothing.
METISEKO
ECO-CHIC / LIFESTYLE
71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem.
metiseko.com
A lifestyle brand that started
out life in Hoi An, Metisekos
RECALLING HANOI
PART 10
andscape is entangled with history

and peoples lives. No matter
how young we are or what social
position we have, we all have
stories to tell.
The book I am working on, Recalling
Hanoi, is my vision of Hanoi, a tapestry
weaved out of portraits, peoples stories
and the urban landscape that hosts them.

I ask people living in the city to tell
me about a place in Hanoi that holds
memories. It can be about anything a
personal story intertwined with history; a
great event; everyday little stories that our
lives are made of. These stories, along with
the photographs of the storyteller and the
location provide depth.

Through this collection I am attempting
to create an intimate, multi-layered portrait
of this city through its collective memory.
The hope is that the audience will connect
to other peoples lives and also to their own
memories in an attempt to understand this
beautiful city.
Ly Pham
A Visit for Lunar New Year
Location: Room 141, House N1, Alley 120, Hoang Quoc Viet
My family used to live in a khu tap the a
block of flats built by the government after the
American war. When I was a kid, I went to a
private kindergarten class in the khu tap the run
by a retired woman named Duyen. My family
moved away in 2000 and I didnt come back
there for 10 years, during Tet 2010.
When I came to visit, my teacher still
remembered me and treated me like before.
I have seen so many changes in the place Im

living at the moment: every day I hear the
noise of construction. Yet when I came back
to my old home, I felt peaceful. When I stood
on the balcony of my teachers house, all my
memories of the past came back.
She told me what I was like. When I first
studied there, I thought her house was my
house. I wanted everyone to serve me like I
was the boss, but they didnt do that and I

cried. She came to me and talked in a very
gentle way.
This is my house, she told me. Whats
wrong with you? Why dont you tell me?
She calmed me down. Then I looked at her
and said: I thought it was my house. Sorry.
She changed me a lot, and will always be
my teacher.
hanoi
BY JULIE VOLA
Hoang Thi Phuong

The Grateful Student
Location: Hang Bot (now Ton Duc Thang)
I was cycling on Hang Bot (now renamed
Ton Duc Thang) on an afternoon during
Tet, when I heard someone calling my
name. I pulled over.
Hi Madam! I wish you a very Happy
New Year!
It was an old student I had taught two
or three years ago in an interpretation
class at the Foreign Trade University.
That class only had about 20 students. I

thanked him, and wished him a Happy
New Year, too. He carried on talking
cheerfully and confessed that he realised
how bad a student he used to be. Here is
the last thing he said to me.
You know what? Your classes were
really helpful for me. I have been able to
take a lot of advantages from them. Ive
never forgotten any of your classes from

my university years.
Thats weird. I remember him clearly.
He was the one sleeping all the time.
This is the 10th excerpt from Julie
Volas work, Recalling Hanoi. The work is
presently being serialised in Word. For more
information email juls.vola@gmail.com
hanoi
TOP EATS
BINIOU
here was a touch of poetic irony

on the day we headed to Hanois
first authentic French creperie.
The weather was cold, the skies
were grey and it was pouring with rain.
While not exactly the ideal conditions for
zipping around town on a scooter, it gave
us an appreciation for why the people of
Brittany, an area renowned for its bitterly
overcast weather, first invented the crepe.
It is a bit of a running joke among people
from Brittany, laughs Raphael Lemay,
co-founder of Hanois first Brittany-inspired
crepe house. After visiting Hanoi with
middle-school friend and co-owner Ugo
Marangoni, the pair returned to Brittany
with the goal to one day come back and
establish the citys first authentic creperie.
When we came here to visit my uncle
four years ago, there were crepes and lots of
French people, but no authentic crepes like
the ones in Brittany, says Ugo. Brittany
crepes are renowned all over France.
The pair went back and immediately
signed up to their local crepe school with
the sole idea of bringing authentic crepes
to Hanoi.
All in the Flour

Fast-forward four years and that dream
is now a reality, with the pair folding
crepes from a stylish townhouse in the
alleyway between Au Co Street and the
Intercontinental Hotel. The townhouse is
handsomely furnished with old prints, rustic
wooden benches and communal tables for
large groups. The overall feel is rustic, warm
and inviting. Its ideal for plonking yourself
down, loosening your belt buckle and

feasting on a plate of battered deliciousness.
Traditionally in Brittany, crepes are
enjoyed with your family at a long table
and with a mug of locally-made cider, says
Raphael. We wanted to give the local French
people a taste of home and for everyone else,
give them the authentic experience of eating
crepes Brittany style.
So, what is the key to making a good crepe?
In short, the flour. We use traditional
buckwheat flour like they do in Brittany
otherwise how can you say its authentic?
says Ugo. Buckwheat, or black wheat may
not be everyones taste, but the pair say
its smoky, peasant flavour is best enjoyed
with savoury fillings, whereas plain flour
(which is also available) is best paired with
dessert crepes.
On the Hotplate
In the open kitchen, Raphael treats us to
a live demonstration. First, a thin layer of
batter is swirled around a bilig hotplate
the chef makes sure the batter is evenly
spread. Then, with an artful flick of the
wrist, the paper-thin crepe is flipped and
layered with generous helpings of smoked
salmon and house-prepared leek, the
ingredients of the Nordique (VND130,000).
The Bergre crepe (VND140,000), a house
speciality, is generously stuffed with special
goats cheese and topped with walnuts,
lettuce leaves and swirls of honey. A third,
the Forestire (VND120,000), is layered with
mushrooms, Emmental cheese and ham.
Each mouthful is rich, hearty and
flavourful. The smoky buckwheat taste
instantly elevates the flavours of the

smoked salmon and leek, while the rich
goats cheese and combines perfectly with
sweetness of the honey and the pleasant
crunchiness of the walnuts. The classic
combination of ham and cheese melts
through the palette with pleasant hints
of mushroom. Each bite, of course is
interspersed with a gulp of delicious brut
(dry) apple cider (VND60,000 per glass or
VND280,000 per bottle), specially imported
from Brittany and perfect for cleansing the
palette with a nice alcoholic kick.
After clearing our plates, Ugo presents us
with the Bounty (VND100,000), a plain-flour
crepe topped with delicious concoction
of chocolate sauce, coconut ice cream and
Chantilly. But the real show stopper is the
Flambes. After resting the plate on the table,
Ugo quickly sets it alight, infusing the crepe
with poached apples and the rich alcoholic
taste of Calvados, a strong apple brandy.
The terrace buzzes with a mix of French
families and expat couples. Previously
the best kept secret of the Francophone
community, it appears that Biniou has now
earned a place in the hearts of a wide cross
section of expats, as well as some curious
local diners.
Initially it started as just the French
community coming to eat, says Ugo. But
then we started getting a lot of Japanese
customers and now theres a broad range.
The Vietnamese customers really surprised
us mainly because they kept trying to put
chilli sauce on their crepes! David Mann
Biniou is at 14 Ngach Ho Ham Long, Ngo 1 Au
Co, Tay Ho, Hanoi
hanoi
move to the capital has seen
them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed
for an eco-chic lifestyle. The
products clothing, accessories and furniture are
made from natural silk and
organic cotton certified to
global organic standards.
Metiseko is also certified
by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.
THINGS OF SUBSTANCE
AUSTRALIAN-STYLE UNISEX
5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3828 6965
This shops motto Western
sizes, Vietnamese prices,
says it all. While mostly retailing womens separates
in soft cotton jersey and
linen, the store also carries a range of accessories
like embroidered canvas
totes and printed tees. Has
a good selection of unique
mens shirts.
THREE TREES
JEWELLERY
(04) 3928 8725
CRAFTS & FURNITURE

MEKONG QUILTS
HANDMADE / CHARITABLE
QUILTS
58 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3824 4607; 13 Hang
Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3926 4831
Mekong-quilts.org
Community development
non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from
traditional to patterned and
Asian-inspired. Founded in
2001 and with outposts in
several locations around
the region, the shop employs women in rural areas,
enabling them to make an
income and care for their
families.
METISEKO
ECO-CHIC
71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3935 2645
metiseko.com
A lifestyle brand that started
out life in Hoi An, Metisekos
move to the capital will see
them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed
for an eco-chic lifestyle. The
products clothing, accessories and furniture are
made from natural silk and
organic cotton certified to
global organic standards.
Metiseko is also certified
by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.
EAT
AL FRESCOS
AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL
24 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3938 1155
alfrescogroup.com
8.30am to 11pm
CAFE DE PARIS
FRENCH BISTRO
12 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 1327
cafedeparis-hanoi.com
8am to 11pm
Thanks to its original tiled
floor, cast iron backed chairs
and wall-hung black and
white photography, there is
something decidedly charming about this tiny Parisianstyled bistro and bar. Serving
up a simple menu of snacks
such as quiche Lorraine,
Paris beurre and croque
monsieur, there is also a selection of classic but unpretentious French mains. Has
a daily specials board and a
decent range of pizzas.
FOODSHOP 45
INTERNATIONAL INDIAN
Tel: (04) 3993 1399
10am to 10.30pm
A slither of a joint serving
up the same fare that the
lakeside Foodshop 45 location in Truc Bach has become famous for. Selling an
international version of the
mighty curry they even
sell pork and beef here
the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent
with masala, dopiaza, korma
and the more Goan vindaloo
taking centre stage. Also has
a good range of breads and
tandoor-cooked kebabs.
GREEN MANGO
WESTERN / VIETNAMESE
18 Hang Quat, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3928 9916
greenmango.vn
7.30am to 11.30pm
GREEN TANGERINE
FRENCH / VIETNAMESE FUSION

(04) 3825 1286
greentangerinehanoi.com
10am to 11pm daily
A leafy, cobblestone courtyard with dark green castiron backed chairs greets
you as you walk into this
French era-built villa that
houses the main section of
this Indochina-styled restaurant. Serving up an enticing
mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine,
blended in with Vietnamese
ingredients and cooking
styles, the resultant fare
has had customers coming
back again and again. A traditional Vietnamese and kids
menu is also available, as is a
wine list focusing mainly on
French wines.
HIGHWAY 4
VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC
5 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 4200; 25 Bat Su,
0639
10am to midnight
LITTLE INDIA
INDIAN / MALAY / CHINESE

32 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 1859
littleindianhn@gmail.com
LA RESTAURANT
VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL
25 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3928 8933
8am to 10pm
The complimentary warm
bread with rosemary is
reason enough to visit this
homely spot featuring hearty
lentil and black bean soups,
along with a range of international and Vietnamese options like New Zealand beef
tenderloin or tofu with chilli
and mushrooms. We arent
quite sure why the Miele
Guide nominated it as one of
Asias finest restaurants as
service is lackadaisical and
tables could use candles to
improve the lackluster ambience, but the immaculately
tasty dishes more than make
up for any quips.
goes over two floors and

has a welcome and inviting
three-level outdoor terrace
high up amid the concrete
and cables of the Old Quarter.
NAMASTE HANOI
PAN-INDIAN
46 Tho Nhuom, Hanoi, Tel:
(04) 3935 2400
namastehanoi.com
11am to 2.30pm, 6pm to
10.30pm
The latest newcomer to the
Indian restaurants family, Namaste specializes in
dishes from both northern
and southern India using Halal meat throughout. A meal will cost you
between VND150,000 and
VND300,000 and everything
is there, from curries and
breads to soups and desserts. Available to dine in or
out with a free delivery.
thekafe.vn
Spacious, casual, energetic
and beautifully designed, The
KAfe serves up unfussy comfort food that aims to satisfy
the modern urban diner.
Preparing fresh food and
drinks that show respect to
natural ingredients and flavours from around the globe,
this caf-cum-restaurant is
a popular choice for Hanois
metrosexual community.
THE MOOSE AND ROO
CANADIAN / AUSTRALIAN RESTAURANT

42B Ma May, Hoan Kiem,
Tel:(04) 3200 1289
Contemporary Australian
and Canadian comfort food
in a pleasant setting together with a nice bar area.
Best known for their Scotch
egg, poutine and burgers.
Clever changing imagery on
the walls.
LA SALSA
IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN
(04) 3828 9052
8am to 11pm
A small but eternally popular Spanish-themed caf
and bar with an extensive
list of reliable cuisine. Tapas are available, as well
as full courses such as
veal, and duck with currant
sauce. Known for its good,
European-style coffee and
first-floor terrace area with
views over the cathedral.
Has a second garden restaurant on Xuan Dieu.
LITTLE HANOI
21-23 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3828 8333
7.30am to 11pm
MEDITERRANEO
PAN-ITALIAN
(04) 3826 6288
10am to 11pm
This long-running, cozy restaurant near the cathedral
serves all the traditional
Italian fare you could need
homemade mozzarella
and fresh pasta, spinach
and ricotta ravioli, cold cut
boards, soups, salads and
fish. Throw in an extensive
wine list, a traditional wood
fire oven and a balcony spot
looking over Hanois trendy
caf scene and youre onto
a winner.
MILLENIUM
PAN-FRENCH
11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207
10.30am to 2.30pm, 6pm to
10pm
Clean and fresh with a finedining vibe, the Millennium
restaurant is the minimal
and chic result of a Caf Des
Arts makeover. The streets
new go-to for a high standard of eating and drinking
OLD HANOI
GOURMET VIETNAMESE
4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3747 8337
10am-2pm, 5pm-10pm
Gordon Ramsay once filmed
a show at this restaurant in
a renovated French villa and
now the ribs carry his namesake. But its the twist on old
world favourites, think fried
snail spring rolls and miniature vegetarian banh xeo,
in a casually elegant setting
that make this spot near
the train tracks standout.
Be sure to try the roll-yourown cha ca spring rolls and
check the schedule for live
traditional music.
PROVECHO
TEX-MEX / BURGERS / INTERNATIONAL

0912 223966
The successor of My Burger
My, this American-run, selfstyled burger bar and restaurant fits a lot into a tiny,
multi-storey space. Specializing in tasty, American-style,
chargrilled burgers from
around VND50,000 with a
range of additional toppings
including jalapeno peppers,
smoked bacon, mushrooms,
cheddar cheese and avocado, the creative menu also
has a good range of Tex-Mex
fare, a number of pan-Asian
dishes and a decent delivery
service.
SOUTHGATE
CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL
28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3938 1979
southgatehanoi.com
THE KAFE
CONTEMPORARY CAFE / CUISINE

18 Dien Bien Phu, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3747 6245
TAMARIND
CONTEMPORARY VEGETARIAN
(04) 3926 0580
5.30am to 10.30pm
Perhaps the only restaurant
in Hanoi to cater to vegetarians that doesnt focus on
faux meat. Features a wide
range of juices and shakes
in a crunchy granola backpacker atmosphere. Has
Asian favourites like vegetarian pho, Ma-Po tofu
and Thai glass noodle salad,
along with some falafel and
western influences. Vegetarians and carnivores alike will
find something to try on this
menu.
THE LOFT STOP CAF
FRENCH BRASSERIE/ VIETNAMESE SPECIALITIES

11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207
8am to 11pm
SPICE
CONTEMPORARY INDIAN RESTAURANT

(04) 3926 0580
TANDOOR
PAN-INDIAN
(04) 3824 5359
11am to 10.30pm
A long-popular, Indianfood enclave specialising
in Northern Indian cuisine.
Has an indoor and upstairs,
white tablecloth aircon
area with a more casual
dining and bar space out
front. Does excellent kebabs
served from an authentic
tandoor oven as well as the
full range of mainly North
Indian curries. Also has a
branch in Saigon and does
excellent set lunches.
ZENITH YOGA STUDIO II & CAF
FITNESS & YOGA

STUDIO FIVE
YOGA & WELLNESS

5th Fl, 135 Bui Thi Xuan,
Hai Ba Trung. Tel: (04)
6263.1515
http://studio5.vn
facebook.com/yogastudio5
6am to 8pm
An international and professional Yoga Studio providing
more than 20 different yoga
styles such as: Hatha Yoga,
Yoga Therapy, Ball Yoga,
Props Yoga, Hot Yoga (with
infrared heater), Power Yoga
and much more, with a flexible schedule of 10 classes
per day. Bring harmony
back into your life Studio
Five is the perfect place to
reconnect your mind with
your body.
ZENITH YOGA
YOGA & MEDITATION

247 Au Co, Tay Ho; 16 Duong
Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3923 0253
An international Yoga studio
providing classes across a
variety of levels and styles,
including prenatal and
postnatal classes, restorative yoga, pilates and tai
chi. Also have a yogic shop
offering incense, yoga and
pilates mats, books, clothes,
soaps, Himalayan products
and other essential yoga
equipment.
GROCERIES & LIQUOR

BACCHUS CORNER
WINE RETAILER
1C Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3935 1393
Part of the Tan Khoa chain,
the largest liquor and wine
distributor in the country,
the walls here are lined with
a decent selection of wines,
pleasantly arrayed and back
lit. Besides their selection of
new and old world wines
Helpful staff and free delivery.
THE WAREHOUSE
WINE RETAILER
59 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3928 7666
warehouse-asia.com
The Warehouse is Vietnams
ultimate premium wine importer, distributor, and retailer, representing many of
the greatest wines from the
best wine-growing regions
on the planet. The portfolio
mixes the best of both old
and new world wines.
HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS

DINH HAIR SALON
HAIR SALON
2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel:
0987 718899
16 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem,

Tel: (04) 3923 0253
hanoi
HANOI INTERNATIONAL THEATRE
SOCIETY (HITS)
hoan kiem
THEATRE GROUP
hitshanoi.com
LESPACE
BARS & NIGHTCLUBS / CAFES / CINEMAS / CLUBS & SOCIETIES / EAT
PARIS DELI
B i
Triu
Hng
Hu
Phan
Chu
Trin
h
Q u
n S
inh Ti
n H o n g
Hng
Phng
H n g G
Hng iu
Hng
Phng
Qun
Nguy
n Du
Trn
Hn
g
o
L Vn H u
CAF / BOULANGERIE
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 5269
7.30am to 11pm
Time has been good to this
airy, bistro-style caf and
patisserie opposite the Opera House. One of the original international-style establishments to hit the capital,
despite its prime location
prices remain reasonable
espresso-style coffees cost
around VND40,000 and
the cakes and croissants
are moreish. Also does filled
baguettes and a larger cafcum-restaurant menu. Has a
second establishment at 13
Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.
Tin
nh D
Kh
Trn
FRENCH-STYLE CONTEMPORARY
Hotel de lOpera, 29 Trang
Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
6282 5555
Hoteldelopera.com
7am to 2am
La Fe Verte (or the Green
Fairy) is a metaphor for the
decadence of another age,
an allusion to the hallucinatory effects of absinthe. The
signature bar of the Hotel
de lOpra Hanoi where, just
as in Paris at the dawn of the
20th century, the making of an
evening drink a lavish event
of ritual and celebration. Understated lighting, a lounge
atmosphere, great music and
ultra-contemporary interior
design combine to bring a
genuine sense of occasion to
after-dark in the capital.
CONTEMPORARY DECOR BAR

23 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem
facebook.com/bar84hanoi
Housed in a colonial building, bare brick, comfortable
sofa-like seating and grungy
decor related to a past make
up the mix at this venue put
together by the people behind Barbetta.
+84 BAR
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WILD WEST THEME BAR

98B Tran Hung Dao, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3942 6822
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BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
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Tel: (04) 3825 0216

7am to 8pm
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MODEL CLUB
CATWALK BAR
45 Hang Bai, Hai Ba Trung
8pm to late
PHUC TAN
LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR

51, To 4A Phuc Tan, Hoan
Kiem
RELAX BAR
HOSTESS / LIVE MUSIC BAR

26 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan
Kiem
ROOFTOP
SKYLINE LOUNGE
19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B
Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3946 1901
8am to midnight
TADIOTO LOUNGE BAR AND CAFE
ARTS BAR / EVENT SPACE

24B Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem
tadioto.com
Located close to the Opera
House, this alternative, arty
bar is garnished in red and
white on the outside, with
warm brown and tones of
blue on the inside. Creating an atmosphere merging
Shanghai and San Francisco,
engaging contemporary artwork lines the walls at the
latest incarnation of this wellknown and well-loved space.
ZONE 17
BAMBOO BAR
17D Hong Ha, Hoan Kiem
The first bar in what will
eventually (hopefully) be a
zone dedicated to bars and

restaurants. A pool table, a
square bar in the middle of
the room and a barbecue until the early hours theres
quite an atmosphere in this
pleasant watering hole.
CAFES
CIAO CAF
RESTO LOUNGE
2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3934 1494
7am to 11pm
A stones throw from the
shores of Hoan Kiem Lake,
this Saigonese franchise
tries its hand with a variety
of different western dishes
at reasonable prices, especially considering the location. Loaded with booths and
a steady, young Vietnamese
crowd, the establishment is
a great place to squash a
sandwich or bowl of pasta
and people watch. Oh, and
they also do coffee, too.
HIGHLANDS COFFEE
CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE
CHAIN
5 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 3228;
Opera House, 1 Trang Tien,
Hoan Kiem; Hanoi Towers,
49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
highlandscoffee.com.vn
7am to 11pm
KINH DO
PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE

252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem,
THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB
CAF / CONTEMPORARY EATERY

6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3938 2117
8am to 11pm
Situated on one of the quieter Old Quarter streets
just off Hang Bong, The
Hanoi Social Club is a cozy
midsize caf/restaurant
where you can forget the
heat and bustle of Hanoi.
The atmosphere is relaxed
and you can imagine, for a
second, that youre sitting in
a European caf. The food
is fresh and internationally
inspired, and the design is
complimented by the work
of Tadiotos Nguyen Qui Duc.
To top it off, the coffee here is
said to be up there with the
best in the country.
TWITTER BEANS COFFEE

Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 0760
twitterbeanscoffee.com
CINEMAS
CINEMATHEQUE
ARTS CINEMA
22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2648
Not a movie theatre per se,
but a private film club that
charges a membership fee in
return for entrance to a wide
selection of movies, new and
old. The management has
an eclectic taste and shows
films from all over the world.
CLUBS & SOCIETIES

AMERICAN CLUB
EVENT SPACE
21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3824 1850
FRENCH CULTURAL CENTRE

Tel: (04) 3936 2164
vphanoi-lespace.com
EAT
AL FRESCOS
23L Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 7782
alfrescogroup.com
8.30am to 11pm
ANGELINA
CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN
Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 56 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3826 6919
11.30am to 2.30pm and
6.30am to late (restaurant)
11am to 2am (bar)
AU LAC DO BRAZIL
BRAZILIAN
6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3845 5224
aulacdobrazil.com
11am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight
A nicely themed Brazilian
churrascaria steakhouse offering all you can eat grilled
meat and seafood on the
skewer, Au Lac do Brazil is
not for the feint of stomach.
In typical Brazilian rodzio
fashion, waiters bring cuts of
meat to the table for patrons
to pick and choose, all for a
set price. They also offer wine
pairings, a salad bar and an a
la carte menu, with a creative
selection of fruit caipirinhas
on hand to wash it all down.
The prices arent for anyone
on a budget, but the amount
and quality of meat is more
than worth cost.
CAF LAUTREC
MEDITERRANEAN / INTERNATIONAL
Hotel de lOpera, 29 Trang
6282 5555
6am to 10pm
Featuring both -la-carte
and buffet dining as well
as an innovative Sunday
brunch, this namesake of the
French artist Toulouse-Lautrec provides an exotic ambience for diners to enjoy a
mixture of international and
Mediterranean-style fare.
Has an extensive wine list
to match the cuisine, which
is all served up in a contemporary yet colonial-inspired
environment.
EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE
ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE
Tel: (04) 3824 7280
elgaucho.com.vn
4pm to late
This theme eatery combines
traditional Argentinian recipes and preparation with
great service in a contem-
porary and thoughtfully

designed space over three
floors. Already with venues
in Saigon and Bangkok, the
essence of this popular
chain is quality top grade
meats off the grill. Steak is
the mainstay, but everything
from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs.
Add to this a backdrop of low
Latin music, low, subtle lighting and an extensive wine list
and thats another reason to
head to El Gaucho.
JACKSONS STEAKHOUSE
STEAKHOUSE / GRILL
23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8388
alfrescogroup.com
9.30am to midnight
Then newest venture from
the team behind Jaspas
and Pepperonis is an all-day
eating and drinking lounge fit
for all occasions. It has three
floors for different vibes
lounge bar, restaurant and
boardroom but fine imported steads can be found
on each, as well as seafood
and a huge wine list. A popular venue.
JASPAS
INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN
Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba
Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3934 8325
alfrescosgroup.com
6.30am to midnight
Recently refurbished, the
Australian-influenced Jaspas is known for its attentive
service, tasty food and large
portions. A place with something for everyone, it has
proved itself to be popular
with both the western and
Asian expat communities
who come back again and
again. The comprehensive
menu is a fusion of western
and Asian cooking. The cocktails come large. The wine is
mainly New World. Also has
a spacious bar and lounge
area that stays open late for
all the live sport.
LA BADIANE
CONTEMPORARY FRENCH
10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3942 4509
11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to
10pm. Closed Sunday night.
A white-washed, colonial
era villa replete with period
wooden shutters greets you
as you enter this contemporary French restaurant.
Guests can either dine indoors in aircon comfort or
take to the leafy covered
terrace out back with its
walls lined with art and photography from 21st century
Hanoi. The menu here mixes
modern Gallic cuisine with a
touch of Mediterranean and
Vietnam thrown in, all creating an innovative and evocative selection of fare. Has an
extensive wine list and an
excellent, well-priced threecourse lunch menu.
hanoi
FOOD PROMOS
VALENTINES DAY IN HANOI
Rockstore
Oysters at The Press Club
61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem

The downtown music
venue and event space will
be celebrating Valentines
courtesy of the turntable
skills of DJ Blip-Blop. But
to add spice to the evening,
theyre also running a special
Ao Dai Night. Women are
invited to come in their best
ao dai to celebrate the patron
saint of love, with a prize for
the best-dressed.
Movenpick Hotel
movenpick-hotels.com/hanoi
The Mvenpick Hotel Hanoi
is offering lovebirds the
chance to dine in and stay
in with its own decadent
Love Blossoms package.
First, dine on a sumptuous
Love at First Bite set menu
before staying the night in
a superior room furnished
with chilled champagne,
chocolates and roses, all
for VND 2,900,000++ (or
VND1,700,000++ excluding
drinks and for the set dinner
only).
Intercontinental Hotel
intercontinental.com/hanoi
Show your loved one just
how much you care with
an intimate dinner by
the lake, complete with a
scrumptious international
buffet at Caf Du Lac, for
only VND2,000,000++ per
couple. Otherwise, start
your evening in style with
a glass of sparkling wine
at the hotels Sunset Bar,
before heading to Milan
restaurant for an indulgent
CLASSIC FRENCH / BUFFET

Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15
Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3826 6919
6am to 10am, 11.30am
to 2.30pm and 6.30pm to
10.30pm
LUNO DAUTUNNO
CLASSIC ITALIAN
27 Nam Ngu, Tel: (04) 3823
7338
11am to 11pm
This old-favourite Italian
uses traditional wood ovens
to prepare some of the citys
finest pizzas, which range
from VND80,000 to buildyour-own-skies-the-limit.
Set inside a large, thoughtful
space seasoned chefs also
make fresh pastas, soups
and cheeses the latter often bought by other restaurants. Monthly opera nights
make it well worth a visit, as
does the large wine list and
choice of desserts.
NINETEEN 11
Green Tangerine
48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem
The long standing Indochine
French-Vietnamese in the
Old Quarter is putting on
a special for Valentines
shrimps in champagne with
asparagus surprise. For a
night of dreamy, passionate,
refined cuisine, as the flyer
says, this might just be the
place.
LE BEAULIEU
INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN
The Opera House, 1 Trang
3933 4801
nineteen11.com.vn
11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm
PANE E VINO
five-course Italian feast
for VND2,000,000++ per
couple.
If youre really looking to
seal the deal, head to their
pastry store Le Gourmet
to choose from a range
of gourmet chocolates or
baked goods, available
from Feb. 7 to Feb. 14
Press Club
12 Ly Dao Thanh, Hoan Kiem
Feast on a host of flavours
at the Press Club this
Valentines Day with a
specially-designed set
menu thats guaranteed
to get the heart racing.
Hit the pan-fried shrimp
with mango avocado
salsa before going for the
salmon served with sauted
mushroom, mashed potato
and cauliflower in a saffron
butter sauce. Finish with
a warm chocolate fondant
served with ice cream and
strawberry sauce, all for
VND 840,000++ per person
and inclusive of one the
complimentary cocktail
of the month La Vie en
Rose for the ladies.
The Pullman
pullmanhotels.com/hanoi
Therell be no reason
to dine and dash this
Valentines Day with the

Pullman Hotel offering
a stylish package for
Valentines Day revelers
from Feb. 12 to 21.
Arrive early and enjoy
free access to the hotels Fit
Lounge, complimentary
WiFi and free drinks
in the mini-bar. Then,
dine in-house with a
complementary bottle of
house wine and a bouquet
of flowers for your beloved,
before retiring to your
deluxe room or if youre
lucky, your upgraded
executive or suite room
for a romantic night in.
Sleep in and enjoy a hearty
breakfast for two, all for
VND2,700,000++.
Grill 63
lotte.net
Lotte Centers Grill 63 will
be putting on a Valentines
Day feast courtesy of a
set menu costing VND3.6
million ++ per couple.
Including champagne
and in-house live music,
women will also receive
a 30 percent discount
voucher for Lotte Centers
Evian Spa.
For information or
reservations, email
reservation.fb@lotte.net
PAN-ITALIAN
3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080
8am to 10.30pm
Just a stroll away from the
Hanoi Opera House and
Hoan Kiem Lake in the heart
of Hanoi, Pane e Vino serves
up authentic Italian food
and has done for as long as
anyone can remember. Renowned for the highly rated,
oven fresh pizzas and large
variety of pasta and salad
dishes look forward to fine
food done well at this eatery
that has the feel of Europe.
Huge wine lists, friendly staff
and a loveable owner.
PRESS CLUB
3rd Floor, 59A Ly Thai To,
0888
hanoi-pressclub.com
11.30am to 2pm and 6pm
to 10.30pm. Closed Sunday
lunch
Wooden flooring, paneling
and bold but subtle colours
pervade this traditional but
contemporary, fine-dining
70-seater venue close to
the Opera House. Serving
up quality cuisine for over a
decade, Press Club boasts
a bar area, two private dining rooms, including a wine
room, a library and a vast
selection of cigars, all in an elegant atmosphere. Does four
excellent wine pairing menus,
put together through the aid
of the Press Clubs extensive
new and old world wine list.
Also hosts a popular firstFriday-of-the-month party.
SATINE
CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE
Tel: (04) 6282 5555 ext. 6414
hoteldelopera.com
WRAP & ROLL

5th Floor, Trang Tien Plaza,
Tel: (04) 3824 3718
wrap-roll.com
The lime green walls and
bright pastel colours of
Wrap n Roll are just part
of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand
which is all about spring rolls
of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Now with
two restaurants in Hanoi
the second in Royal City.
GROCERIES & LIQUOR

CITIMART
SUPERMARKET
Ground Floor, Hanoi Towers,
Tel: (04) 3934 2999
DA LOC
WINE RETAILER
Tel: (04) 3826 2076; 65 Le
Duan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3941 2789
Daloc.vn
FIVIMART
SUPERMARKET
27A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem
HANOI GOURMET
DELI / WINE SHOP

6T Ham Long, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3943 1009
Hanoigourmet.com
The long-running Hanoi
Gourmet specialises in imported cheeses, meats and
artisan breads. After browsing the mainly French selection of wines, you can take a
look at the deli and sit down
for a light snack.
INTIMEX
VIETNAMESE SUPERMARKET
22-23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem
PANE E VINO WINE SHOP
WINE RETAILER / RESTAURANT

3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080
This Italian favourite with a
huge food menu also has a
huge for-retail wine list that
is 100 percent focused on
fine wines and liquors from
Italy. Owner Hoang has great
knowledge of Italian wine and
a passion to match, which is
sure to land you with the best
wine for any occasion.
RED APRON
WINE RETAILER
10 Da Tuong, Hanoi Tel: (04)
3943 7226
WESTERN CANNED FOODS
GROCERY STORE
Tel: (04) 3934 3854
hanoi
THE ALCHEMIST
TRUE LOVE
o love is to recognize yourself

in another. Eckhart Tolle.
I recently came across
this quote and it gave me
pause. The profoundness of the statement
invites one to reflect on the nature of
the relationships in ones life as well as
each potential relationship. Initially I
thought Tolle was repeating the frequently
expressed counsel, to love another, one
must first love oneself. The premise with
this advice is that you cannot fully receive
love if you are unable to love yourself.
The Human and the Being

What Tolle is suggesting goes beyond selflove and beyond empathy. Its more than
sharing or understanding anothers feelings
or emotions.
Tolle asks us to recognise the other as

our self. In so doing we can potentially
experience true love. He explains that, as
human beings we embody two dimensions,
the human and the being.
The human is the form, he says.
The being is the formless, timeless
consciousness.
According to Tolle, true love emanates
from the timeless, transcendental nature
of who we are. He believes that love
becomes a source of suffering when the
transcendental is missing. To bring in
the transcendental we need to step back
and give each other space. Tolle believes
that in this space, thoughts or emotions
become unimportant. We simply access
the stillness within ourselves when we
look at the other.
BY KAREN GAY
I Am, That I Am
The rock band, Pink Floyd wrote, I am you
and what I see is me. Were they inviting
us to recognize our self in our fellow
human being and thus drop the illusion of
separateness and become aware that we are
one and thus allow ourselves to experience
true love?
Tolle suggests that, love makes the
world less worldly, less dense, more
transparent to the divine dimension
Explore the divinity within yourself
and in others, venture into that space that
allows the transcendental to enter and to
take form in love.
Karen Gay, A-Roaming Bodyworker, is
a holistic health practitioner practicing in
Hanoi. For information on the types of services
provided, visit a-roamingbodyworker.com
tay ho
ARTS / BARS & CLUBS / BOOK SHOPS / CAFES / CLOTHING / COOKING CLASSES /
CRAFTS & FURNITURE / CYCLING & BICYCLE RENTALS / EAT / FITNESS & YOGA /
GROCERIES, LIQUOR & KITCHEN PRODUCTS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / EXPAT SERVICES
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THE REPUBLIC
MODERN SPORTS BAR

7A Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 010116
republic.vn
A contemporary mid-range bar and eatery
showing live sport and boasting a convivial
atmosphere. Has a creative comfort food
menu, excellent breakfasts, daily specials
and a popular second-floor outdoor terrace.
hi
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ARTS
WORK ROOM FOUR
ARTS STUDIO & GALLERY

Packexim Building Tower 1, 23rd Floor, No.
49 Lane 15, An Duong Vuong, Tay Ho
workrmfour@gmail.com
workrmfour.tumblr.com
A place to work. A space to create. Somewhere to see something new. Work Room
Four is pulling together the threads of creative endeavours across Hanoi. A collective
that promotes collaboration and new ideas,
exhibitions, workshops, artist studios, courses, contacts and events.
BARS & CLUBS

88 LOUNGE
CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR

88 Xuan Dieu, Tay ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8029.
88group.vn
5pm to late
A wine bar with a difference, this addition to
the watering hole scene in West Lake mixes
contemporary design, black ceilings, subtle
lighting and an international aesthetic with
one of the best wine lists in town. Not surprisingly it is developing a faithful clientele.
Well worth a visit.
HANOI ROCK CITY
LIVE MUSIC VENUE

27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 01633
166170
hanoirockcity.com
5pm to midnight
With a downstairs, English-style pub garden
area and an upstairs space dedicated to live
music and live production, Hanoi Rock City is
the only venue in the capital of its kind. Has
weekly live events featuring bands both from
Thm
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TAY TAP
BAR & GRILL

No. 20, Lane 50/59/17, Dang Thai Mai, Tay
Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6917
taytap.com
Filled with wooden furnishings and a downstairs bar with beer and cider on tap, this
recently relocated venue next to Da Paolo
mixes contemporary international comfort
food on the first floor with live music and an
often raucous atmosphere. Amazing West
Lake views from their top floor terrace.
Ngu
yn
Ho
ng
delivery from nearby favorites. Non-smoking,

unpretentious, dog-friendly.
Vietnam and overseas established and up

and coming. Email jimihendrix@hanoirockcity.com for more information or check out
their page on Facebook.
HOUSE OF SON TINH
LIQUOR LOUNGE
31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6377
sontinh.com
8am to 11.30pm
As part of the Highway 4 group, which now
has its offices in the establishments upstairs
areas, this bar-cum-restaurant outfitted
with comfortable, stylish furnishings is famed
for its luxurious rice wine liquors and newly
created cocktail class. Does regular events
on the first floor and also has a creative Vietnamese food menu based on cuisine sold
at other restaurants in the chain.
MADAKE
CONTEMPORARY RESTOBAR
81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6276 6665
or 0984 002181
With a stunning garden overlooking a peaceful lotus pond, this bar and restaurant is ideal
for those seeking a fusion of Western and
Eastern cuisine. Famed for its many weekday and weekend events, the ambient Asianstyle dcor, weekend DJ nights and general
atmosphere makes Madake a popular West
Lake go-to joint.
RED RIVER TEA ROOM
LAKESIDE WATERING HOLE

25 Duong Ven Ho, Tay Ho
Open daily from 2pm.
Located on the lakeside lane just below Xuan
Dieu, this warm, quiet and friendly pub offers
a selection of international and local beers,
wine, cocktails and a nice view of West Lake.
Serving pies and pasties from The Cart,
Vietnamese food from Dieus next door, or
TRACYS PUB AND GRILL
SPORTS BAR/GRILL
40 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho , Tel: (04) 6675 9838
tracyspub.com
11am to 12am
This Canadian-run, miniscule sports bar on
the main drag of Xuan Dieu is perpetually
crowded with regulars drinking out front
on plastic stools. Notorious for its mouthwatering burgers, cooked fresh to order,
Tracys is most famous for their draft beers,
claiming to serve the coldest draft beer in
Hanoi, and always in a frosted mug. For those
missing their dose of North American sports,
they play all day via satellite on two plasmas.
BOOK SHOPS
BOOKWORM TOO
NEW & SECOND-HAND BOOKS

1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3829
2322
Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanois literary scene since 2001. It has been
around the block quite a bit and now shares
a space with Hanoi Cooking Centre. With over
15,000 new and second-hand fiction and
nonfiction titles in stock, the shop also buys
used books and offers free travel advice. Has
a second shop in Tay Ho
CAFES
COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF
INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE

28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3715 4240
coffeebean.com
7am to 10pm
Finally the newest addition to the Hanoi coffee scene has opened a little closer to town
than the first outlet in Pico Mall. Famous for
the exceptional quality of the coffee and tea,
the latest Coffee Bean is a multilevel, indoor/
outdoor caf overlooking Westlake. With its
LA coffee and office feel, when you walk in
you might just forget that youre in Westlake.
hanoi
HIGHLANDS COFFEE
CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE
CHAIN
Ground Floor, Syrena Centre, 51B Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
highlandscoffee.com.vn
7am to 11pm
JOMA BAKERY CAFE
COFFEE/BAKERY
(04) 3718 6071
joma.biz
7am to 9pm
With two branches, Joma
has brought a little slice
of home to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the
counter-style service and
atmosphere. The food is
all there too: breakfasts,
salads, soups, ice cream,
muffins, cakes, cereals and
bagels. Starting in Laos in
1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009 and contributes
2 percent of each sale to
charitable organisations.
KUB CAFE
BIKING CAFE
so 12 ngo 264 Au Co, Tay Ho
kub.vn
Think obsession, think motorbikes and you get Kub
Cafe, an industrial, warehouse-style watering hole
bringing thats become a favorite of the motorbike clubs.
Does good on-the-table bia
hoi and runs biking events.
SAINT HONORE
CAFE / BOULANGERIE
5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3933 2355
st.honorehn@gmail.com
7am to 10pm
Decked out in maroon, dark
browns and cream, this
cafe and French-style boulangerie is best visited in
the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of
bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk
through the door. Serving
all day long, the downstairs
space is split into the bakery
on one side with a small nonsmoking dining space on the
other. The homely upstairs
lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating.
Simple but tasty French and
international fare is served
at meal times.
TET DCOR CAF
ART CAF & ESPRESSO BAR

Villa 25, 1, 3 Ha, Dang Thai,
Tay Ho
tet-lifestyle-collection.com
8am to 6pm, Tuesday to
Sunday
Cloistered among the back
streets of West Lake and
sheltered from the noise of
Xuan Dieu, TET Dcor Caf is
a destination for those who
appreciate lifes pleasures:
coffee, food, art and music.
Simple and unpretentious,
the caf has an old-fashioned warmth and rustic feel
combined with unique and

inspiring art installations.
THE CART
SANDWICH SHOP / CAF

8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam
Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938
2513
thecartfood.com
7.30am to 5pm
Small cozy caf and sandwich bar hidden away in
Nghi Tam Village. Serves
and delivers tasty baguettes,
homemade juices, quiches,
pies, muffins and cakes. The
delivery service is quick and
reliable, which makes this
lunchtime favourite ideal
for when you need to eat at
the desk.
THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE

(THBC)
CAF / TAPAS BAR

44, Ngo 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay
Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246
thbc.vn
9am to 10pm
Tucked down an alleyway
just off West Lake, The Hanoi Bicycle Collective is not
just a place for all bicycle lovers, but a caf that also sells
Spanish tapas served up
with gin & tonic, if the mood
so takes you. Organising
bicycle tours, running yoga
sessions and holding music
concerts in their upstairs
cafe area, they also sell, rent
and fix bikes and are an official supplier of TREK and
SURLY cycling equipment.
Eclectic? Not a chance!
CLOTHING
0912 254045
hiddenhanoi.com.vn
A wide range of Vietnamese
culinary classes are offered
in these well-appointed and
clean facilities. The knowledgeable staff will guide you
through the secrets of Vietnamese cooking in an open
air courtyard.
HIGHWAY4 COOKING CLASS

VIETNAMESE COOKING CENTRE
68, Ngo 27 Xuan Dieu, Ba
Dinh, Tel: 0976 848301
CRAFTS & FURNITURE

BETTERWORLD
GLOBAL HANDICRAFTS
8 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
Fair trade or bought directly
from the artisans who made
them, Betterworld stocks
unusual handicrafts from
around the world as well as
second-hand books, DVDs
and more.
LA CASA
CONTEMPORARY DESIGN
Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 4084
lacasavietnam.com.vn
A shop whose speciality
is designing furniture and
other household objects,
this spot has everything from
beds and bookshelves, to tableware and silverware. The
items are all locally made by
skilled artisans from Hanoi
and the surrounding regions.
MEKONG QUILTS
CONTEMPORARY WESTERNSTYLE
(04) 3718 6233
With new styles arriving in
store every second day, this
shop offers a huge range of
dresses, shirts, pants, skirts
and accessories in local and
imported fabrics. Clothes fit
all sizes, from petite to average to the generous figure.
Alterations and a made-tomeasure service are available at no extra cost.
HANDMADE / CHARITABLE
QUILTS
3926 4831
Mekong-quilts.org
Community development
non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from
traditional to patterned and
Asian-inspired. Founded in
2001 and with outposts in
several locations around
the region, the shop employs women in rural areas,
enabling them to make an
income and care for their
families.
LATELIER
CYCLING & BICYCLE RENTALS
GEORGES FASHION BOUTIQUE
WOMENS WEAR & ACCESSORIES

(04) 3718 6758
ateliervietnam.com
Stocks womens wear, leather bags, shoes and handicrafts. This chic boutique
offers both ready-to-wear
and made-to-fit clothing.
COOKING CLASSES
HIDDEN HANOI
COOKING CENTRE
147 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel:
(Bamboo) and First (balance) bicycles and cycling

equipment. Also rent bicycles (city, MTB or touring)
and organise guided bicycle
tours under the name Urban
Discovery, with a 25-year
experienced European mechanic as part of the team.
Closed Mondays.
EAT
AL FRESCOS
(04) 3719 5322
alfrescogroup.com
8.30am to 11pm
COUSINS
3 Quang Ba, Tay Ho, Tel:
01238 670098
A contemporary, Frenchinfluenced restaurant selling international cuisine
at reasonable prices in a
spacious, airy atmosphere.
Blackboards, whitewashed,
bare-brick walls, period tiles,
a well-chosen wine list and
an outdoor terrace overlooking the lake make up the
formula.
DA PAOLO
CLASSIC ITALIAN
18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang
Thai Mai, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3718 6317
11am to 11pm
This airy, contemporary
looking Italian restaurant
next to the famed lawn chair
and coconut caf on West
Lake has all the right ingredients to become a classic.
Run by the long time former
manager of Luna DAutunno,
it features scrumptious
wood-fired oven pizzas from
VND120,000 and other Italian delicacies. Open every
day for lunch and dinner,
delivery is also available.
DALUVA
BICYCLE RENTALS
3719 3719
Dons-bistro.com
FUSION / MIDDLE-EASTERN
(04) 3718 5831
daluva.com
8am until late
A popular hang-out for expats and trendy Vietnamese in the Xuan Dieu area
on West Lake. This bar and
restaurant offers casual
dining with a classy, MiddleEastern twist, as well as
wine, tapas, events and attractive dcor.
THBC (THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE)
DONS TAY HO
DONS TAY HO
CYCLING COLLECTIVE
29 Nhat Chieu, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3718 3156
thbc.vn
A place for bicycle lovers,
THBC is the official supplier
of ORBEA, DEDA, MEKONG
CONTEMPORARY NORTH AMERICAN

16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3719 3719
Dons-bistro.com
Monday to Friday, 10am to
late. Weekends 8am to late
This lake-facing venue with

its top floor Oyster Bar is the
work of charismatic Canadian restaurateur and wine
connoisseur Donald Berger.
Focusing on comfort food
done well, the main restaurant menu includes anything
from wood-grilled rare tuna
steak with fragrant Chinese
black bean beurre noir to
gourmet pizza and pasta
dishes such as the likes of
Iberian pata negro ham egg
pasta served with crushed
roasted garlic and manchego. Does an excellent range
of imported oysters and has
an extensive wine list.
EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE
(04) 3718 6991
elgaucho.com.vn
4pm to late
This theme eatery combines
traditional Argentinian recipes and preparation with
great service in a contemporary and thoughtfully
designed space over three
floors. Already with venues
in Saigon and Bangkok, the
essence of this popular
chain is quality top grade
meats off the grill. Steak is
the mainstay, but everything
from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs.
Add to this a backdrop of low
Latin music, low, subtle lighting and an extensive wine list
and thats another reason to
head to El Gaucho.
Sirloin, Rib Eye, Rump and

Tenderloin grilled to perfection. Prefer Seafood no
problem, Lobster, Oysters,
Prawns, Fresh Fish, Clams
and Crabs are all available
for your dining pleasure, as
well as an impressive array
of wines by the glass & bottle
from our
IL FARO
ITALIAN / MEDITERRANEAN
Villa 3, Cong Doan Hotel
Compound, 98 To Ngoc Van,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6327 1142
Hidden away in Cong Doan
Hotel, this pan-Mediterranean restaurant owned
by the same people behind
Mediterraneo serves up
an assortment of French,
Spanish and Italian dishes
in a pleasant, white-washed
yet Italian-influenced atmosphere.
INDIA PALACE
NORTH INDIAN
10B Quang An, Tay Ho Tel:
01247 668668
indiapalacehn@vnn.vn
Like a phoenix rising from
the ashes, so India Palace
has once again returned
to Tay Ho, this time on the
strip between Dons and The
Warehouse. Tasty North
Indian fare in a pleasant
environment from the team
behind Tandoor.
J.A.F.A.
HALIA HANOI
SINGAPOREAN / CONTEMPORARY
INTERNATIONAL
(04) 3946 0121
thehalia.com
Daily 11am to 11pm
A multi-floored venue with a
bar area and a refined dining
space. The menu includes
Singaporean specialities
such as the shrimp satay
salad and the chilli crab
spaghetti. A pan-European
classical menu mixed in with
light Asian flavours is also
on offer. Has an extensive
wine list.
HEMISPHERES STEAK & SEAFOOD GRILL
CONTEMPORARY STEAK & SEAFOOD

Sheraton Hotel, 11 Xuan
Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719
9000
sheraton.com/hanoi
11.30am to 2.30pm, 6.30pm
to 10pm
The newest Steak & Seafood
dining experience in Hanoi.
Hemispheres Steak & Seafood Grill offers a wonderful menu covering both the
Northern and Southern
hemispheres. Choose from
Black Angus, US Prime
INTERNATIONAL
G2-G3 Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3758 2400
7am to 11pm
One of the larger and more
comfortable bars in Hanoi,
J.A.F.A. is a great place for
drinking cocktails by the
pool. The beverages are
not the cheapest, but this is
made up for by service and
ambiance. They also have a
full menu featuring familiar
western dishes such as pizza
and cheeseburgers and cater for large parties or dinner functions. Periodic buffets and drink specials are
also offered.
KITCHEN
INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE

(04) 3719 2679
hungskitchen@gmail.com
7am to 9pm
Set inside a newly renovated house with a large
courtyard, Kitchen is a great
space for eating the decent
breakfasts (check out the
breakfast burrito), the creatively titled sandwiches and
the selection of international
salads. Also does a range of
Mexican dishes (available
after 5pm) and an innovative smattering of healthy,
smoothie-style drinks.
R&R TAVERN
RESTOBAR / LIVE MUSIC

256 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
6295 8215
Now on its third location, this
watering hole still lives up to
its old name, providing an array of drinks, buzzing chatter,
and of course, some quality live
rock music. Its upstairs area is
equipped with a sound system
and stage setup for weekly shows
and events, while the downstairs
area houses a classic bar that
gives a finishing touch to the
friendly community environment.
SAINT HONORE
BOULANGERIE / BISTRO
3933 2355
sainthonore.com.vn
7am to 10pm
Decked out in maroon, dark
browns and cream, this bakery
and French-style bistro is best
visited in the morning when that
Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of
bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through
the door. The downstairs space
is split into the bakery on one side
with a small non-smoking dining
space on the other. The upstairs
lounge area has standard tables
as well as sofa seating. Simple
French and international fare
is served at meal times. Has additional venues at 31 Thai Phien,
Hai Ba Trung and Unimart, 8
Pham Ngoc Thach, Dong Da
THE PIE SHOP
TAKEAWAY PIES
2nd Floor (on the left), Syrena
Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 1507
thepieshophanoi@gmail.com
Classic Aussie and Kiwi-style
savoury pies and rolls. Available
in three convenient sizes (mini,
regular and large). Enjoy them
hot as a takeaway, or frozen to
keep for later.
ZENITH VEGETARIAN CAFE
VEGETARIAN / VEGAN
247 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904
356561
zenithyogavietnam.com
8.30am to 8pm
A vegetarian and vegan cafe respecting the philosophy of yoga
simple living, mindful thinking. Using 100 percent natural
ingredients, the cuisine has no
additional additives or MSG
and is cooked using the minimal amount of oil. The stress is
instead on eating whole food in
its natural state local, fresh,
seasonal and organic.
EXPAT SERVIES
MAID IN VIETNAM
HOUSEKEEPING SERVICES
Suite 201, 5 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 3112
maidinvietnam.com
Offering a licensed hire service
for trained domestic and office
housemaids, cooks and nannies.
Courses include health checks,
housekeeping, safety, basic 1st
Aid, courses for external maids

and household management for
Vietnamese wives of foreigners.
FITNESS & YOGA

ELITE FITNESS
TOP-END HEALTH CENTRE

3718 6281
elitefitness.com.vn
The luxury gym features topof-the-line fitness equipment,
separate cardio and spinning
areas and an indoor swimming
pool with a retractable roof. The
spacious studios and natural
light make it a welcoming place
to squeeze in a work out, but be
prepared to pay. This place is top
of the range.
HANOI CLUB
COUNTRY CLUB
76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823
8115
thehanoiclub.com
HANOI OIS
hanoinetball@gmail.com
Hanoi Ois Netball Club is a mixed
ability, mixed gender club for
adults wanting to enjoy team
sport while also improving fitness and developing skills. The
club plays every Tuesday from
6pm to 7pm at UNIS. Email for
more information
VIETCLIMB
CLIMBING CENTRE
40 Ngo 76 An Duong, Tay Ho, Tel:
0914 143185
vietclimb.vn
Although a little hard to find,
VietClimb is a French-owned,
200-meter climbing gym with
state-of-the-art courses. There
are 100 different climbing routes
within the gym that are changed
every few months. They offer
clinics, classes and childrens
events. Membership and group
rates are available, but be sure to
check out the three-month pass.
ZENITH YOGA
YOGA & MEDITATION

247 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3923
0253
An international Yoga studio providing classes across a variety
of levels and styles, including
prenatal and postnatal classes,
restorative yoga, pilates and tai
chi. Also have a yogic shop offering incense, yoga and pilates
mats, books, clothes, soaps,
Himalayan products and other
essential yoga equipment.
GROCERIES, LIQUOR & KITCHEN PRODUCTS
ANNAM GOURMET
GROCERIES / DELI
First Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 4487
KITCHEN ART
KITCHENWARE
6680 2770
kitchenart.vn
Kitchen Art is a little haven for

all foodies, cooks and bakers
to grow their love and passion
for cooking and baking. Come to
Kitchen Art Store to buy restaurant-grade tools and ingredients
to cook like a chef, take part in
regular demonstrations and
workshops at the Studio, or simply read and relax at the cookbook cafe corner while enjoying
the peaceful West Lake view.
L'S PLACE
GROCERY SHOP
3719 9911
NATURALLY VIETNAM
ORGANIC / NATURAL PRODUCTS

4 Lane 67, Alley 12, To Ngoc Van,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6674 4130
naturallyvietnam.com
Offers food and beverage
produced in Vietnam with full
traceability and strict food
safety controls. Meat, egg, milk,
fish, veggies, honey, jams, fruit
juices, liquors, coffee, water,
ice cream. Also, every Saturday
from 8.30am to 12.30pm, the
team convert the store yard into
the Tay Ho Weekend Market, a
cross-cultural outdoor shopping and socialising hotspot for
expats and Vietnamese.
PUNTO ITALIA
COFFEE MACHINES
62 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
6258 3510
puntoitalia.asia
Trendy, reliable and stylish coffee machines for the workplace
or home, specialising in authentic Italian coffee. Also sells their
own brand coffee in capsules,
ready ground or as the original
roasted mix of beans.
RED APRON
WINE RETAILER
28 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: (04)
3719 8337
THE OASIS
ITALIAN DELI
3719 1196
A great place to get all kinds of
imported groceries and homemade foods. All of the breads
and pastas are made in the inhouse kitchen. A great variety of
fresh sauces, a limited, but wellchosen selection of wines and a
fantastic deli and cheese case.
Free delivery.
THE WAREHOUSE
WINE RETAILER
27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: (04)
3718 3701
warehouse-asia.com
The Warehouse is Vietnams ultimate premium wine importer,
distributor, and retailer, representing many of the greatest
wines from the best wine-growing regions on the planet. The
portfolio mixes the best of both
old and new world wines.
HOLISTIC HEALTH
A-ROAMING BODYWORKER
karen@a-roamingbodyworker.
com
a-roamingbodyworker.com
Provides various holistic healing modalities. Services include
craniosacral therapy, deep tissue massage, prenatal massage,
healing stones massage, as well
as energy healing including Reiki
and Jin Shin Jyutsu. Workshops
are also available.
MEDICAL & DENTAL

INTERNATIONAL SOS 24-HOUR CLINIC
MEDICAL / DENTAL CLINIC
3934 0666
Internationalsos.com
Well-known medical clinic also
known for its quality emergency
services. Doctors and consultants
also provide a range of services
from standard GP-style checkups through to vaccinations,
paediatrics and specialist care.
WESTCOAST INTERNATIONAL DENTAL

CLINIC
DENTAL CLINIC
2nd Fl, Syrena Center, 51 Xuan
Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3710 0555
westcoastinternational.com
The Westcoast International
Dental Clinic is composed of
dental professionals who deliver modern, high-level dental
services throughout Vietnam.
The clinic provides the highest
quality technology, comfort and
after-service care to patients.
SUPERMARKETS
BIG C SUPERMARKET
222 Tran Duy Hung, Cau Giay
CITIMART HANOI TOWERS

CITIMART VINCOM TOWERS

191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung
FIVIMART
210 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan
Kiem
10 Tran Vu, Ba Dinh
671 Hong Hoa Tham, Ba Dinh
71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Dong Da
51 Xun Dieu, Tay Ho
93 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung
Online shopping: www.fivimart.
com.vn
HANOI STAR SUPERMARKET

36 Cat Linh, Dong Da
INTIMEX
22 & 23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem
131-135 Hao Nam, Dong Da
17 Lac Trung, Hai Ba Trung
27 Huynh Thuc Khang, Dong Da
METRO
126 Tam Trinh, Yen So, Hoang
Mai
Pham Van Dong, Co Nhue, Tu
Liem
hanoi
THE THERAPIST
This month Douglas
Holwerda, American trained
and licensed mental health
counsellor, advises on how
to deal with a very difficult
situation
Dear Douglas,
My girlfriend and I have been together for
over two years, but for the past few months
we have had lots of arguments. She is too
dependent on me financially, getting and
losing jobs all the time.
A few weeks ago, after a big argument, I
told her I wanted to break up and that she
should go to stay with her sister or a friend.
She did, but has also come back to get
things and wants to see me and convince
me to keep her. I let her stay for a few days
and then again we had a fight because she
is jealous that I communicate with my exgirlfriend. I told her to leave again.
She called me later that night saying she
had taken a lot of pills and was going to die.
After two hours, she finally told me where
she was and I went there to help her. I told
her that she cant come back [to mine] to live.
I talked to her sister and mother, to tell them
that she needs some help. But again she called
me in the night saying she was dying of an
overdose. Again I went to find her because
I was so afraid she would die and I couldnt
live with that. I really dont know what to do.
Scared
Dear Scared,
Yes, of course you are scared. When someone
tells us they will commit suicide and that we

are the only one who can save them, we feel
both scared and trapped. Your (ex) girlfriend
is emotionally unstable and it is difficult to
predict what she will do. So you are torn
between leaving her and rescuing her. You
have done a lot of things right in the way that
you have handled it so far, but you can see
that to continue rescuing her is really being
manipulated in a way that doesnt result in
an outcome you can live with.
Suicides occur because people are in
emotional pain and cannot imagine a way to
feel better. This creates a sense of helplessness
and hopelessness. Most often, when a person
does feel better the desire to die goes away.
It appears that your former girlfriend is
in intense emotional pain and hasnt yet
accepted the fact that your relationship has
failed. Right now her only method of feeling
better is when you show her you care about
her, which runs counter to the message to her
that you no longer feel like the relationship
you have is working and sustainable.
While breakups are almost always
difficult and undesired breakups even
more so we know that the emotional
pain goes away with time and with
acceptance. At this point it might be helpful
to continue to involve her family or other
friends and to let her know that threatening

suicide will not be a successful way for her
to sustain your relationship. While I am
sure it is difficult to say, you must let her
know that her decision to live or die is hers
to make and that there are many ways that
she can get help to feel better.
Let her know the healthy ways that
you will support her, while maintaining
the boundaries that allow you to make
decisions that are right for you. Continue
to set limits and reduce the time and
availability you have for her. Believe that
she will adapt and adjust to being broken
up, and it will help her to believe it too.
This is undoubtedly painful and difficult
for you, so it is important to take care of
your own wellbeing, with healthy coping
methods (sleeping, eating, exercise,
spending time with friends), rather than
unhealthy ones (drinking, smoking, letting
yourself go). It is better to stay calm and
consistent, than to swing between passivity
and anger.
Good luck,
Douglas
Do you have a question you would like
Douglass help with? You can email him at
douglasholwerda@hotmail.com. Personal
details will not be printed
hanoi
to get dressed up for. Has extensive a la carte menus, dim
sum menus and set menus.
Reservations recommended.
ba dinh
BARS & NIGHTCLUBS / BOOKSHOPS / CAFES / CLUBS & SOCIETIES / COOKING CLASSES / EAT /
FITNESS & YOGA / HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS / MEDICAL & DENTAL
BARS & NIGHTCLUBS

BARBETTA
ARTSY BAR & CAFE

34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3734 9134
ETE BAR
FRENCH LOUNGE
95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh,
Tel: 0976 751331
10am to midnight
A favourite among those who
roam further west of the
city centre, this multi-storey
restobar has been going
strong for more than two
years. It has balconies, mezzanine seating and a long bar
guarding exactly 50 different
cocktails. For many the Ete
burger is right on the mark
as are the sandwiches, tartines and salads. Its always
crowded especially during the weekends. Amiable
staff, pleasant vibes.
ALTERNATIVE DANCE CLUB

18 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh
facebook.com/vaulthanoi
The work of Mao, the enigmatic personality behind
Maos Red Lounge and The
Coach House, this underground homage to nighttime
decadence sits in the gap
between The Old Quarter
and West Lake, bringing in a
range of DJs and nightly entertainment. A great addition
to the scene.
BOOKWORM
BOOK SHOP
44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3715 3711; 1/28 Nghi
Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04)
3829 2322
Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanois literary
scene since 2001. It has
been around the block quite
a bit and now shares a space
with Hanoi Cooking Centre.
With over 15,000 new and
second-hand fiction and
nonfiction titles in stock, the
shop also buys used books
and offers free travel advice.
Has a second shop in Tay Ho
CAFES
CONG CAPHE
LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE

32 Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 2247 0602
8am to 10pm
With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this
quaint cafe, most patrons
are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats.
Sip on a blended cup of joe
with beans from the Central
Highlands, knock back one
of the many different types
of tea available or sip on
freshly squeezed juice from
the Spartan cups in one of
the hippest cafes on cafe
street. If you like pre-doi
moi nostalgia, here is the
place to go.
HANOI COOKING CENTRE CAF
COURTYARD CAFE
44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh
9am to 5.30pm. Open every
day
Relax in a leafy courtyard,
air-con dining room or under
a covered roof terrace with
a Vietnamese ca phe, Italian
coffee, beer, wine or freshly
squeezed juice. Order from
a seasonally changing
menu or try one of the allday breakfast specials for
VND110,000, including juice
and coffee or tea.
MANZI
ARTS CAF & GALLERY

14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3716 3397
facebook.com/manzihanoi
A stunningly designed contemporary caf and events
space that screams out the
words modern art. Housed
in a converted colonial-era
villa, a continuous flow of exhibitions, talks, experimental music and game shows
make up the mix here. Great
cuisine, too.
CLUBS & SOCIETIES

GOETHE INSTITUT
GERMAN CULTURAL CENTRE

58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh
Tel: (04) 3734 2251
goethe.de/hanoi
COOKING CLASSES
HANOI COOKING CENTRE
COOKING CENTRE
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boo seating and a history

that screams empathy make
this eatery one of the most
popular Indians in town. Selling an international version
of the mighty curry they
even sell pork and beef here
the menu keeps to the
northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza,
korma and the more Goan
vindaloo taking centre stage.
Also has a good range of
breads and tandoor-cooked
kebabs.
n
Y
BA DINH
DISTRICT
Trn Nhn Tng

(04) 3715 0088
hanoicookingcentre.com
Hanoi Cooking Centre is a
school, retail outlet and caf,
where you can find classes
on not just Vietnamese
cooking, but international
cuisine, held in a beautiful
setting. They also offer culinary tours.
EAT
AU LAC DO BRAZIL
BRAZILIAN CHURRASCO
6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3845 5224
aulacdobrazil.com
Open for over a decade,
Au Lac Do Brazil is home to
the Hanoi's best Churrasco
menu with a wide variety of
meats from Calabrian sausage and picanha through
to D-rump steak and smoked
hams. Pioneering the eat-asmuch-as-you-can theme in
Vietnam, Passadors bring
the meat skewers to your
table, and you, the customer
then choose your accompaniments from the salad bar.
Best washed down with red
wine or a Caipirinha or five.
FOODSHOP 45
MING PALACE
INTERNATIONAL INDIAN
59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3716 2959
10am to 10.30pm
Lakeside location, low bam-
VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC
575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3771 6372
10am to midnight
HOA SUA TRAINING RESTAURANT

SONG THU
(04) 3942 4448
hoasuaschool.com
KOTO ON VAN MIEU
RESTAURANT / CAF / BAR

59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel:
(04) 3747 0337
koto.com.au
Monday: 7am to 4pm;
Tuesday to Sunday: 7am to
9.30pm
All profit is invested back into
the cause at Koto, which is a
school and workplace for
disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of
a visible and frenetic kitchen
and is served over four big
floors of restaurant space.
Its cushioned, comfortable
and has a rooftop terrace,
too. Wrap it yourself nem,
bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips,
chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.
MATCHBOX
INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE
40 Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3734 3098
11am to 11pm
MAY MAN CHINESE CUISINE
PAN-CHINESE
Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha,
Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333
fortuna.vn
11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to
10pm
Elegant and luxurious, May
Man has long been regarded as one of the best Chinese restaurants in Hanoi.
Showcasing a selection of
authentic Chinese culinary
delights and Yum Cha at its
finest, with seven private
dining rooms this is a place
PAN-CHINESE
Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien,
Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888
11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to
10pm
A fine dining destination at
the Sofitel Plaza serving
Cantonese and pan-Chinese
cuisine in a sleek modern
setting with private dining
rooms. With more than 80
dim sum selections available
along with Chinese entrees,
Mings is an ideal eatery for
those hungry for higher end
Chinese fare.
THE BISTRO
FRENCH FLAIR
2/2c Van Phuc, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3726 4782
thebistro.com.vn
7.30am to 9pm
A modern eatery offering
western cuisine with shades
of French influence in a comfortable setting. Think gardens in a courtyard, drink
and food deals and a warm
indoor atmosphere you
know, just how the French
do it.
FITNESS & YOGA

N SHAPE FITNESS
MID-RANGE FITNESS CENTRE

5th Floor, 71 Nguyen Chi
Thanh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
6266 0495
nshapefitness.vn
HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS

DINH HAIR SALON
HAIR SALON
2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel:
0987 718899
MEDICAL & DENTAL

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE
MEDICAL
298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3843 0748
vietnammedicalpractice.
com
On the little street directly
below Kim Ma, with all sorts
of specialists including OB/
GYN, Pediatricians and ENT.
A Medium-sized practice
with both Vietnamese and international doctors, but they
are used to treating expats.
Also a 24-hour emergency
service.

simply email us on
well try our best
hanoi
MEDICAL BUFF
THE UNCOMMON COLD
neezing, scratchy throat,

runny nose everyone knows
the first miserable signs of a
common cold. More severe
symptoms, such as high fever or muscle
aches, may indicate you have the flu
rather than a cold. As there are more
than 100 viruses that cause a common
cold, signs and symptoms tend to vary
greatly.
The common cold is a viral infection of
your upper respiratory tract your nose
and throat. A common cold is usually
harmless, although it may not feel that
way at the time. Pre-school children are
at greatest risk of frequent colds, but even
healthy adults can expect to have a few
colds each year.
The Science
You can catch a common cold from
another person who is infected with the
virus. This usually happens by touching a
surface contaminated with cold germs
a computer keyboard, doorknob, or eating
utensil, for example and then touching
your nose or mouth. You can also catch a
cold by encountering the stuff someone
with a cold has sneezed into the air.
Being cold or wet are not actual causes

of the common cold, however there are
factors that make you more susceptible
to catching a cold virus. If you are
excessively fatigued, have emotional
distress or suffer from allergies with nose
and throat symptoms, then you are more
likely to catch a cold.
While most colds last about seven to
10 days, if your symptoms linger, you
may need to call the doctor. Sometimes,
common colds can lead to bacterial
infections in your lungs, sinuses or ears
that require medical treatment such as
antibiotics.
When to See a Doctor: Adults

Seek medical attention if you have:
Fever of 102F (39.0 C) or higher
Fever accompanied by sweating, chills
and a cough with coloured phlegm
Significantly swollen glands
Severe sinus pain
For Children
In general, children get sicker from the
common cold than adults do and often
develop complications, such as ear
infections. Your child doesnt need to see
BY DR. BRIAN MCNAULL
the doctor for a routine common cold. But

seek medical attention right away if your
child has any of the following symptoms:
Fever of 100.4 F (38C) in newborns up
to 12 weeks
Fever that rises above 104 F (40C) in a
child of any age
Signs of dehydration, such as urinating
less often than usual
Not drinking adequate fluids
Fever that lasts more than 24 hours in a
child younger than 2
Fever that lasts more than three days in
a child older than 2
Vomiting or abdominal pain
Unusual sleepiness
Severe headache
Stiff neck
Difficulty breathing
Persistent crying
Ear pain
Persistent cough
Dr. Brian McNaull is Medical Director at
Family Medical Practice, which is located in
Vietnams major cities. For information or
assistance call (04) 3843 0748 (Hanoi), (08)
3822 7848 (Ho Chi Minh City) or (0511)
3582 699 (Danang). Alternatively, click on
vietnammedicalpractice.com
hanoi
Tel: (04) 3974 3556
vinmec.com
elsewhere
A DONG PHOTO CO
BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / EAT / MEDICAL & DENTAL / RECREATION
RECREATION
KEANGNAM SWIMMING POOL
BARS & CLUBS

CAMA ATK
MUSIC & ARTS BAR

73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: 01262 054970
Wednesday to Saturday,
6pm to midnight
With well-poured drinks, a
foosball table, no smoking
and a midnight closing time,
CAMA ATK knows exactly
what it wants to be and
thats refreshing. The space
is a part time venue for
smaller acts and DJs. The
venue is hip, comfortable
and will likely provide the serious drinker with a reliable
place to pull up a stool and
take pulls in a relaxed haven.
HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS
CZECH MICROBREWERY
1A Tang Bat Ho, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 5088
VUVUZELA
MODERN BEER HALL

2A Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba
Trung
CAF 129
MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD
129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3821 5342
7.30am to 9.30pm
FRENCH GRILL
JW Marriott Hanoi, 8 Do Duc
Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Tel: (04)
3833 5588
facebook.com/frenchgrill
Every day 6pm to 11pm
With unique decor, contemporary ambience, a walk-in
wine cooler and a delectable seafood bar, this classy
restaurant offers guests
a service experience with
crafted food difficult to find
in the capital.
HIGHWAY 4
VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC
54 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3796 2647
10am to midnight
CAFES
KOTO ON VAN MIEU
CONG CAPHE
LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE

152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai
Ba Trung
8am to 10pm
With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this
quaint cafe, most patrons
are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats.
Sip on a blended cup of joe
with beans from the Central
Highlands, knock back one
of the many different types
of tea available or sip on
freshly squeezed juice from
the Spartan cups in one of
the hippest cafes on cafe
street. If you like pre-doi
moi nostalgia, here is the
place to go.
HAM HANH
ARTSY CAFE
170 Doi Can, Dong Da
The physical representation of arts, film and music
collective, The Onion Cellar,
this cafe with multiple areas
is as left field as the people
who created it.
RESTAURANT / CAF / BAR

59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel:
(04) 3747 0337
koto.com.au
Monday: 7.00am to 4pm;
Tuesday to Sunday: 7am to
9.30pm
All profit is invested back into
the cause at Koto, which is a
school and workplace for
disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of
a visible and frenetic kitchen
and is served over four big
floors of restaurant space.
Its cushioned, comfortable
and has a rooftop terrace,
too. Wrap it yourself nem,
bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips,
chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.
KY Y
JAPANESE RICE EATERY

166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3978 1386
11.30am to 1.30pm, 5pm to
10.30pm, closed Sunday
SUSHI RESTAURANT
288 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3974 5945
asahisushi.vn
11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to

9.15pm
Situated in an art-deco villa
that was once owned by
a Vietnamese mandarin,
this establishment is now
owned and run by perhaps
the most famous French chef
in the country. With modestly
priced set lunches and subtle Vietnamese touches on
the dishes, which primarily
come from carefully selected domestic spices, the up
market establishment lures
in its high class customers
with quality VietnameseFrench fusion cuisine.
rant, bar and lounge blends

the old with the new. Vietnamese fusion cuisine, like
profiteroles with green tea
and caf fillings, a private
chefs table with a kitchen
view, and an extensive wine
list combined with modern
formal styling bring a unique
experience to Hanoi.
WILD LOTUS
CONTEMPORARY ASIAN / VIETNAMESE

55A Nguyen Du, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3943 9342
57 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 0204
potsnpans.vn
11.30am to late
Brought to you by a group of
former disadvantaged youth
from Hanois own KOTO, this
unique fine dining restau-
ROYAL CITY ICE SKATING RINK
ALPHA LAPTOP
95D Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3747 4418
FUONG MAY ANH

5 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3213 1568
NGUYEN CAU
ICE SKATING
Royal City, 72A-74 Nguyen
Trai, Thanh Xuan, Tel: 0936
469799
royalcity.com.vn
1 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem
X-FACTORY LASER TAG
HI-TECH USA
LASER TAG
77 Hong Mai, Bach Mai, Hai
Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3627 7106
x-factory-vn.com
DK COMPUTER
29 Ngoc Kha, Ba Dinh Tel:
3772 4772
23 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan

Kiem. Tel: 3938 6261
PICO PLAZA
35 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem
MEDICAL & DENTAL

POTS N PANS
SWIMMING POOL
Landmark 72 Tower, Pham
Hung, Cau Giay, Tel: (04)
3772 3801
landmark72.com
128 Hang Trong, Hoan

Kiem . Tel: 3826 0732
FRENCH HOSPITAL
INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL
1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da, Tel:
(04) 3577 1100
hfh.com.vn
VINMEC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

458 Minh Khai, Hai Ba Trung,

simply email us on
well try our best
PROFESSIONAL COMPUTER
CARE AND IT SERVICES
No 3, Alley 8, Hoa Lu,
Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 0983
011081
VIETSAD
34B Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3747 8771
SWIMMING POOLS
ARMY HOTEL
33C Pham Ngu Lao, Hoan
Kiem. Tel: 3825 2896
FOUR SEASONS
14 Dang Tien Dong, Dong
Da. Tel: 3537 6250
HANOI CLUB
76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho
Tel: 3823 8115
www.hanoi-club.com
HORISON FITNESS CENTER

40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh
Tel: 3733 0808
MELIA HOTEL
Kiem. Tel: 3934 3343
OLYMPIA
4 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan
Kiem. Tel: 3933 1049
SAO MAI
10 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho
Tel: 3718 3161
SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS

CENTER
1 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho
Tel: 3823 8888
THAN NHAN
EAT
ASAHI SUSHI
ELECTRONICS
LA VERTICALE
CONTEMPORARY FRENCH
19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3944 6317
verticale-hanoi.com
Vo Thi Sau, Hai Ba Trung,

(Inside the park)
THANG LOI HOTEL

200 Yen Phu, Tay Ho
hanoi
BOOK BUFF
This month, Bookworms Truong and some of Bookworms avid young adult
readers look at four new releases that will probably be hot property in 2015
Isla and the Happily Ever After
This is the third book in the series Anna
and the French Kiss, a title that must
have had a few parents on tenterhooks
but which, after borrowing the first
installment just to make sure, probably
had them swooning like love-smitten
teenagers. In which case theyll be fighting
their older offspring for possession to
find out how Isla and Josh are getting
along with a love affair that their elders
considered having begun far too early.
The French in the kiss is in reference
to the two characters meeting at boarding
school in Paris. Fans will be pleased
to know that their French friends all
have bit parts in this final tale. Author
Stephanie Perkins has a successful
recipe that incorporates two of the
essential ingredients in a lot of modern
teenage books and movies, romance
and the essence of fairy tale. It has the
added bonus of having really believable
characters.
Its probably best to begin with book
one if youre the type who appreciates the
marshmallow swoon factor in your life.
The Queen of the Tearling

For readers who hate to read book series
out of sequence, this is the first of its
series, released last year. It stirs in two
other tried and tested ingredients to the
young adult mixture: future fantasy and a
medieval setting.
Erika Johansen has successfully
mixed the flavours of Game of Thrones
with the dark and dangerous twists and

smouldering but almost requited sex of
recent screen adaptations of Snow White
and Sleeping Beauty.
The heroine is 19-year-old Kelsea, who
finds herself fighting for a kingdom that
is rightfully hers. She is given magic
necklaces to help her circumvent the
wicked intent of the evil red queen who
has grabbed the throne. In the midst of all
this, she has to come to terms about the
truth of whom and what her mother was.
The movie rights were snapped up
before the book was off the presses, which
means that it could be a really hot read.
Emma Watson is set to play the Red
Queen. Sound familiar?
The Young Elites

Popular author Marie Lu of the Legend
series has recently had the first book in her
new series published. She adds three more
extremely popular spices to the bubbling
YA pot: science fiction, dystopia and a
group of mixed-gender, misfit young
characters.
Its set in a time of plague, and young
people who survive have acquired
abnormal physical features such as
facial discolouring, having only one
eye, unnaturally tinged hair and other
deformities that cause their communities
to shun them. To make these freaks even
more different and dangerously scary, they
have acquired mysterious and powerful
mental gifts.
Most non-callow readers will make the
intellectual jump and recognise bigotry

extant in their own, real world.
Its not only immensely entertaining,
but is also incredibly well-written.
Love Letters to the Dead

This a book for everyone, adults included,
who loved the drama and angst offered
up by super successful YA novelist John
Green in The Fault in Our Stars.
Protagonist Laurel is given a school
assignment to write a love letter to a
dead person. She starts with a letter to
Kurt Cobain. This becomes a private
obsession and she writes loads of letters to
famous people who died young, like Amy
Winehouse, Janis Joplin and Heath Ledger.
Through these we learn secrets about
her friends and family and the abuses
she went through when she was in the
protective care of a now dead sister, who
she wants to mourn but cant forgive.
The author, like a lot of present day YA
lit novelists, is female. Could this indicate
that teenage females are more avid readers
than their male counterparts? Luckily,
it definitely means that a lot of strong,
sensitive characters in teenage books are
now young women and as many of
these books are bound for cineplexes,
younger, positive female role models
may become the norm rather than the
exception.
The main advice given by young critics
on book review blogs is, just read it!
For more information on Bookworm go to
bookwormhanoi.com
Ho Chi Minh City

BUSINESS BUFF // JOB SEARCH // BODY AND TEMPLE // COFFEE CUP // TOP EATS //
THE EMPTY WOK // STUDENT EYE // A WORLD OF GOOD
PHOTO BY GLEN RILEY
HCMC
business
ACCOUNTING & AUDITING / ADVERTISING & MKTG / BUSINESS CONSULTING / BUSINESS GROUPS / CORPORATE GIFTS & SERVICES /
EVENT MANAGEMENT / EXPAT SERVICES / HOUSING & REAL ESTATE / INSURANCE / INTERIOR DESIGN / INVESTMENT & FINANCE /
LANGUAGE SCHOOLS / LEGAL SERVICES / MANAGEMENT TRAINING / MARKET RESEARCH / PHOTOGRAPHY SERVICES / PUBLIC RELATIONS /
RECRUITMENT & HR / RELOCATION AGENTS / SERVICED APARTMENTS
ACCOUNTING & AUDITING
PRICEWATERHOUSE COOPERS
Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan,

Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0796
pwc.com
SAIGON-EXPAT TAX SERVICES
6th Floor, Me Linh Point

Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:
0938 220 255
vivianwcooper@gmail.com
TMF GROUP
Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon

Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc
Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910
2262
Tmg-group.com
ADVERTISING & MKTG

BBDO VIETNAM
74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 6662
bbdoasia.com
COWAN STRATEGIC BRAND

DESIGN
16th Floor, Bitexco Office

Tower, 1925 Nguyen Hue,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 3064
cowandesign.com
GREY GROUP
led communications company helps brands connect

and grow across Southeast
Asia. Clients include The
CocaCola Company, Asia
Pacific Breweries, Piaggio
and UPI.
404 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08)

3929 1450
grey.com/vietnam
PURPLE ASIA
DENTSU VIETNAM
AB TOWER, 23rd Floor, 76 Le
Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9005
Dentsu.com.vn
INDUSTRIAL DESIGN ASIA
Duong So 12, Tran Nao, Q2,

Tel: (08) 3740 6388
industrialdesignasia.com
MARKETEERS VIETNAM
FPT Tower, 153 Nguyen Dinh

Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3933
3493
marketeersvietnam.com
OGILVY & MATHER

12th Floor, Centec Tower,
7274, Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q13, Tel: (08) 3821
9529
ogilvy.com
PHIBIOUS
7th Floor, 11bis Nguyen Gia

Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3933
3377
phibious.com
An independent, creative
9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh

Thanh, Tel: (08) 6277 7050
purpleasia.com
RED | BRAND BUILDERS
Floor 14, Citilight Tower, 45

Vo Thi Sau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820
0169
red.vn
Long-established branding
consultancy and marketing agency. The Red team
creates and shapes unique
marketing strategies that
add impact to international
and local brands from Vietnam to Australia.
RIVER ORCHID
10th Floor HDTC Building,
36 Bui Thi Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3925 2538
riverorchid.com
SAATCHI & SAATCHI

26 Tran Cao Van, Q3, Tel: (08)
3824 1207
saatchi.com
Ranked among the top 100
global advertising agencies,
S&S has worked with over
half of the 50 bestknown
brands in the world, providing advertisement planning,
direct marketing, marketing consulting and graphic
design.
TBWA\VIETNAM
4th Floor, Saigon Finance
Center, 9 Dinh Tien Hoang,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5315
tbwa.com.vn
BUSINESS CONSULTING
BDG VIETNAM
11th Floor, Capital Place, 6
Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 7858
Bdg-vietnam.com
CONCETTI
33 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3911 1481
Concetti.vn
GRANT THORNTON
28th Floor, Saigon Trade
Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 9100
Gt.com.vn
INSPIRED IMAGE
Villa 15, Duong 58, Phu
Nhuan, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:
0916 352573
Inspiredimage.co.uk
PRISM INFORMATION
TECHNOLOGY SERVICES
4th Floor, YOCO Building, 41
Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1,
Tel: (08) 7305 0905
prism.com.vn
ROUSE
6th Floor, Abacus Tower, 58
Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 6770
iprights.com
STAR CORPORATE VIETNAM

161A/1 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3911 0965
starcorpvn.com
STRASOL GROUP INTERNATIONAL

38 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel:
0904 410884
TRACTUS ASIA LTD

164 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6291 2205
tractus-asia.com
XAGE CONSULTANCY
35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412
3402; 31st Floor, Saigon
Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc
Thang, Tel: (08) 3911 0454
xageconsulting.com
BUSINESS GROUPS
AMCHAM
New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3562.
amchamvietnam.com
An independent association
of American and international businesses, the objective
of the American Chamber of
Commerce in Vietnam is to
promote trade and investment between the United
States and Vietnam.
AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE

2nd Floor, Eximland Building,
179EF Cach Mang Thang
Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9912
auschamvn.org
A licensed foreign busi-
ness group established to

represent and promote the
interests of Australian businesses operating in Vietnam,
AusCham coordinates topical breakfast seminars, social networking functions,
governmental relations
meetings and charity events.
BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF

VIETNAM
3829 8430
bbgv.org
CANCHAM
Room 305, New World Hotel,
76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824
3754
canchamvietnam.org
Open to all nationalities, the
Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to create an effective network of business
associates together and to
facilitate discussion forums
about business in Vietnam.
NORDCHAM
17th Floor, Petroland Tower,
12 Tan Trao, Q7, Tel: (08)
5416 0922
nordcham.com
PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP

VIETNAM
40/4 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh
Thanh, Tel: (08) 3518 0045
pbgvn.com
SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP

6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy
Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 3046
sbghcm.org
SWISS BUSINESS ASSOCIATION

42 Giang Van Minh, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3744 6996
swissvietnam.com
HCMC
CINEMAS
Showcasing the latest
Hollywood blockbusters
and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as
Megastar Media, Lotte
and Galaxy Cinema offer
the most up-to-date and
modern cinema-going
experiences in Saigon.
For those partial to more
esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox and
Idecaf carry little known
Vietnamese and European
efforts.
CINEBOX
240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10
Tel: (08) 3862 2425
cinebox.vn
LOTTE CINEMA
13th Floor, Diamond Plaza,
34 Le Duan, Q1
Tel: (08) 38227897
3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469
Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7
Tel: (08) 3775 2521
lottecinemavn.com
GALAXY CINEMA
230 Nguyen Trai, Q1
Tel: (08) 3920 6688
116 Nguyen Du, Q1
Tel: (08) 3823 5235
246 Nguyen Hong Dao,
Tan Binh
Tel: (08) 3849 4567
galaxycine.vn
IDECAF
31 Thai Van Lung, Q1
Tel: (08) 3829 5451
idecaf.gov.vn
MEGASTAR CINEMA
Level 5, Crescent Mall,
Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My
Hung, Q7
Tel: (08) 5412 2222
Level 10, CT Plaza, 60A
Truong Son, Tan Binh
Tel: (08) 6297 1981
Level 5, Parkson Paragon,
3 Nguyen Luong Bang,
Phu My Hung, Q7
Tel: (08) 5416 0088
megastar.vn
EVENT MANAGEMENT
CENTERPIECE EVENT ORGANIZERS
Tel: 0906 761190
centerpiece-vn.com
info@centerpiece-vn.com
Centerpiece is an independent event planning company
run by expatriates that can
plan any event from private
parties, to corporate events
to weddings.
EVECOO
Tel: 0988 297990
evecoo.vn
GALA ROYALE EVENT HALL

63 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 6048
galaroyale.com.vn
ONE WORLD TOURISM CO, LTD

268/3 Nguyen Thai Binh, Tan
Binh, Tel: (08) 6299 0880
THE CATERERS
46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu, Tel:
(08) 3812 6901
thecaterersvietnam.com.vn
Offers everything from canaps and cocktails, buffets
and set menus to barbeques
and wedding catering. Combines excellent food, event
management and exclusive
venues to make any kind of
event a success.
EXPAT SERVICES
AMBRIJ VIETNAM LTD

14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8364
ambrij.com
ENDO
406/16 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh,
Tel: (08) 6292 2045
endo.vn
Endo offers garment manufacturing for local resorts,
restaurants, hotels, golf
courses, travel agencies
and apparel shops. They
also manufacture giftware
from polos and hoodies to
keychains, card holders and
menu covers.
COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL VIETNAM

Bitexco Office Building, 7th
Floor, 19-25 Nguyen Hue,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5665
colliersmn.com/vietnam
CREATION
International Plaza Building,
Room 16B8, 343 Pham Ngu
Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7553
CUSHMAN & WAKEFIELD VIETNAM

Unit 16, 14th Floor, Vincom
Center, 72 Le Thanh Ton Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 7968
cushmanwakefield.vn
EASY SAIGON
Tel: 0932 112694
easysaigon.com
The Easy Saigon website is
a useful real estate website
helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City.
Enquiries via their website
are welcome.
CHUMS HOUSE
121/21 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)

3920 7237
HAPPY HOUSE
32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701,

Q1, Tel: 01659 419916
RESIDENT VIETNAM
Unit 601 48 Hoa Su, Phu

Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855
residentvietnam.com
HOUSING & REAL ESTATE

CBRE
12th Floor, Me Linh Point
Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3824 6125
cbre.com
JONES LANG LASALLE

CORPORATE GIFTS & SERVICES
Representation, Office Leasing, Retail Services, Valuation and Advisory,

Research and Consulting,
Investment Sales and Acquisitions, Residential Agency,
Industrial Agency, Project
and Development Services,
Property Asset Management
Services, Hotel Investment
and Consultancy Services,
Integrated Facilities Management.
26th Foor, Saigon Trade

Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang
Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 3968
joneslanglasalle.com.vn
Jones Lang LaSalle
(NYSE:JLL) is a professional
services and investment
management firm offering specialized real estate
services to clients seeking
increased value by owning,
occupying and investing in
real estate. As a truly global
firm, they work and collaborate closely with their
colleagues across Asia Pacific and around the world to
bring best-in-class services,
people, and systems to their
clients in Vietnam.
Their offices in Ho Chi Minh
City and Ha Noi offer: Tenant
KNIGHT FRANK
Suite A, level 7, VTP Office
Building, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 6777
knightfrank.com.vn
Founded in 1896, Knight
Frank has grown to become
the worlds largest privately
owned global property agency and consultancy. In Vietnam, they offer commercial,
residential and residential
development services.
advisory and other services.
Tel: 0934 874271

Iglobalassist.com
SNAP
32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4282
snap.com.vn
Owners of Snap Caf in District 2, Snap offers a web
based real estate search
service with information on
rental properties all around
the city, as well as an advisory service for those averse
to wading into the internet
depths for their needs.
SOTHEBYS INTERNATIONAL
REALTY
Suite 1905, Bitexco Financial
Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3520 2000
sothebysrealty.com.vn
THE NEST
369/6 Do Xuan Hop, Phuoc
Long B, Q9, Tel: 0903 198901
thenest-vietnam.com
Wellknown property
search and real estate
agency with a useful website
listing properties available
for rent and sale, orientated
towards expats. Website is in
English, French and Spanish.
INSURANCE
BAOVIET INSURANCE
49D Phan Dang Luu, Binh
Thanh, Tel: (08) 3510 1661
baoviet.com.vn
IF CONSULTING
IFC Building, 3rd Floor, 1A
Me Linh Square, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 7362
insuranceinvietnam.com
Independent advisors that
represent top reputable
medical insurers provide
you with the best suitable
medical cover for individual,
family or company needs.
NAMHOUSE CORPORATION
48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: 0989 007700
namhouse.com.vn
Expert in providing rental
properties, constructions
and interior decoration,
especially in District 2. Supports professional services
and aftersales.
SAVILLS VIETNAM LTD

Fideco Tower, 18th Floor,
81-85 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 9205
savills.com.vn
Savills Vietnam is a leading
property service provider
in Vietnam since 1995, providing research, advisory
services, residential sales,
commercial leasing, asset
management, retail advisory, valuation, investment
IGLOBALASSIST
BLUE CROSS VIETNAM

8th Floor, River View Tower,
7A Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08)
3821 9908
inquiry@bluecross.com.vn
www.bluecross.com.vn
Blue Cross Vietnam is part
of the Pacific Cross group
of companies with over 60
years experience in providing health and travel insurance to people and businesses who call Asia home.
Their reputation for transparent, honest and reliable
service means they are the
strength behind your insurance. To make sure you are
getting the most out of your
insurance contact them for
a free quote.
LIBERTY INSURANCE
15th Floor, Kumho Asiana
Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3812 5125
libertyinsurance.com.vn
PRUDENTIAL
25th F, Saigon Trade Centre,
37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3910 1660
prudential.com.vn
TENZING PACIFIC SERVICES

181 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3821 5367
ten-pac.com
A full-service insurance broker offering a wide range of
insurance solutions from the
best local and international
providers. Recommendations are based exclusively
on client needs.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS
ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL
(ABCIS)
Saigon South Campus 1 (Primary & Secondary), Tel: (08)
5431 1833; Saigon South
Campus 2 (Foundation Stage
& Early Primary), Tel: (08)
5431 1833
theabcis.com
Rated as outstanding by
British government inspectors, academic results puts
ABCIS among the top 8 percent of schools worldwide.
Provides education for two
to 18 year olds in a supportive and friendly environment.
BIS provides a British style

curriculum for an international student body from
pre-school to Year 13. The
school is staffed by British
qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Fully accredited by
the Council of International
Schools and a member of
FOBISIA, BIS is the largest
international school in Vietnam.
CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL
13C Phong Phu Commune,
Binh Chanh, Tel: (08) 5412
3456
cis.edu.vn
The first Canadian international school in Vietnam
serves local and foreign
students from Kindergarten
to grade 12. Talented, certified teachers implement the
internationally recognised
Ontario curriculum to create a student-centred learning environment promoting
academic excellence.
CITYSMART
Horizon Tower, 214 Tran
Quang Khai, Q1, Tel: (08)
3526 8833
7 Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 8488
citysmart.vn
CitySmart delivers a range
of diverse, internationallyrecognised educational
programmes, as well as life
skills and character building
for comprehensive development.
AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL (AIS)
Xi Campus, 190 Nguyen Van
Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519
2727; Thao Dien Campus,
APSC Compound, 36 Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744
6960; Thu Thiem Campus,
264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West
Highway), An Phu, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3742 4040
aisvietnam.com
The Australian International
School is an IB World School
with three world-class campuses in District 2, offering
an international education
from kindergarten to senior
school with the IB Primary
Years Programme (PYP),
Cambridge Secondary Programme (including IGCSE)
and IB Diploma Programme
(DP).
BRITISH INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL (BIS)
Tel: (08) 3744 2335
bisvietnam.com
Inspected and approved
by the British Government,
EUROPEAN INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (EIS)
730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Thao
Dien, D2, HCMC, Vietnam.
Tel: (08) 7300 7257
info@eishcmc.com
www.eishcmc.com
Located in the heart of Thao
Dien, District 2, the EUROPEAN International School
Ho Chi Minh City offers a
supportive and challenging
academic education from
Early Years to Grade 12
based on the IB curriculum.
EIS is a Nobel Talent School
and is part of the Nobel Education Network. The school
educates global citizens to
enjoy learning, inquiring and
caring for others.
GYMBOREE PLAY & MUSIC OF

VIETNAM
Somerset Chancellor Court,
1st Floor, 21-23 Nguyen Thi
Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827
7008
gymboreeclasses.com.vn
HCMC
BUSINESS BUFF
ADVERTISING
ne of the things I enjoy most from

being an expat and living in a
foreign land is not understanding
the vast majority of advertising
that is forced into my head every day.
To live in the era when advertising was
designed to be helpful (and honest) to me
would be great.
Yet somehow over the last century,
companies have increased their products
to fulfill every one of the growing list
of basic human needs. As a result, the
competition for the consumer has grown
exponentially. Advertising now appears
everywhere you look, listen, move, call,
read, drive, fly, work and play. Buy this!
Buy that! Free sample! Call us! Email us!
Visit us! Follow us! Connect with Me!
I saw recently a 472-page slide show on
the evolution of advertising and how it
changed from advertising to marketing.
There were some fascinating insights from
this slideshow.
The majority of consumers need to
hear a company claim three to five times
before they will believe it
The first newspaper advertisement
was in 1650 and was a reward for stolen
horses
The first advertising agency was
launched in 1841
The first academic course in
advertising was started in 1900
The first radio advertisement cost
US$100 (VND2.1 million) for 10 minutes
in 1922. That is equivalent to US$1,247
(VND26.7 million) in todays money
In 1946 the US had 12 TV stations.
Now they have over 1,700
In 1993 the entire internet had 5
million users. That is equivalent to under
0.5 percent of Facebook users today
The first email spam was sent in 1994

by a law firm
By 1998 the average consumer saw
over 3,000 marketing messages per day
In 2009 regulators in the US had
to formally ban untruthful customer
testimonials
In 2011 there were over 1 trillion
internet pages, more than 400 for every
person on the planet
A York University study revealed
that US pharmaceutical companies spend
twice as much on advertising as they do
on research
More than US$500 billion a year is
spent on advertising worldwide. Over
US$15 billion is targeted advertising to
children in the US
By the time a person in the US is 65
years old, he will have seen an estimated
two million television commercials
In 1900, the standard billboard was
created in America, creating a billboard
boon along streets and highways
Most watches displayed in
advertisements are set to 10:10 because
the hands of the watch frame the watch
brand name and make a smiling face
Advertisers consciously try to create
a nag factor by bombarding kids with
ads encouraging them to buy certain
products in order to become popular.
American children ages 12 to 17 will ask
a parent for products they have seen on
television an average of nine times before
parents finally give in
In 2000, US internet advertising
revenue was $8.1 billion. In 2011, that
figure jumped to US$32 billion. In 2013,
the figure was US$42 billion
Advertisers often use a technique
called affective condition, which means
BY SHANE DILLON
they take a product and place it next to

other things consumers feel positively
about. For example, a detergent ad
will juxtapose their brand with babies,
sunshine, flowers, or other similar items.
Repeatedly showing their brand with
these items makes consumers feel good
about the detergent too
Studies show that repeated exposure
to a stimulus that is barely perceptible
creates an exposure effect, which
increases positive feelings towards the
object. For example, even though most
people do not click banner ads, the ads
still positively influence the way people
feel about the product. In fact, the wear
out effect of banner ads does not appear
even after 20 exposures.
Life was the first magazine to make
US$100 million per year in advertising
By 1938, radio surpassed magazines
in generating advertisement profits
Doyle Dane Bernbachs Think Small
ad for Volkswagen at the end of the
1950s is considered the most successful
advertisement of all time as it took a
German car initially created for Hitler
and successfully sold it to post-war
Americans.
The largest group of advertisers is
food marketers
Researchers report that womens
magazines have 10.5 times more ads
and articles promoting weight loss than
mens magazines do, and over 75 percent
of womens magazine covers include at
least one article title about how to change
a womans body by diet, exercise, or
cosmetic surgery
Shane also advertises, he can be contacted
at shanedillon@bluecross.com.vn
HCMC
LITTLE GENIUS INTERNATIONAL
KINDERGARTEN
102 My Kim 2, Phu My Hung,
Q7, Tel: (08) 5421 1052
lgkids.vn
Energized Engaged Empowered
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI

MINH CITY (ISHCMC)
MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL

(08) 3898 9100
admissions@ishcmc.edu.vn
www.ishcmc.com
The most established international school in HCMC,
ISHCMC recently celebrated
20 years of success. A fully
accredited IB World School,
authorised to teach all three
programmes of the International Baccalaureate curriculum to students aged 2
to 18 years, ISHCMC is fully
accredited by both the Council of International Schools
(CIS) and the New England
Association of Schools and
Colleges (NEASC), two of the
most prestigious international accreditation organisations. Has over 1,000 students from over 50 different
nationalities.
42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2,

Tel: (08) 3744 2639
montessori.edu.vn
Aiming to encourage childrens engagement with their
surroundings, MIS offers
children from age three to 12
a classic Montessori education as well as a variety of
extracurricular activities.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON

PEARL (ISSP)
Thanh Tel: (08) 2222 7788
admissions@issp.edu.vn
Set in a purpose-built campus, International School
Saigon Pearl (ISSP) is an
elementary school catering for ages 18 months to
11 years. With 90 percent
of their teachers having
masters degrees, they are
able to promise a vigorous
American curriculum while
including specialist subjects
such as music, art, sport and
languages.
KIDS CLUB SAIGON

79/7 Pham Thai Buong, Q7;
27/3 Ha Huy Tap, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5412 5944
kidsclubsaigon.com
Early childhood centres in
Phu My Hung offering creative play-based programmes
for children ages two to five.
Known for unique facilities,
experienced staff, highquality learning resources,
and small class sizes.
KINDERMUSIK EARLY CHILDHOOD EDUCATION CENTRE

Crescent Residence 2, 107
Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: 0907
099 480
kindermusik-vietnam.com
RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL SAIGON
74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7,
Tel: (08)3773 33171 ext
120/121/122
renaissance.edu.vn
Renaissance is an International British school providing an inclusive curriculum
based upon the British curriculum complemented by
the International Primary
Curriculum and International Baccalaureate. It is a
family school with first-class
facilities including a 350seat theatre, swimming pool,
mini-pool, play-areas, gymnasium, IT labs, music and
drama rooms, science labs
and an all-weather pitch.
SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL

CHILDCARE CENTRE
15 Street 12, perpendicular
to Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08)
3740 8081
saigonkidskindergarten.
com
SKECC has evolved over 10
years to create a creative,
playful learning environment for children ages two
to six. Limited class sizes and
highly engaged teachers ensure personal attention for
all students.
SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL

SCHOOL (SSIS)
78 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5413 0901
ssis.edu.vn
Offers an American-style education (SAT, IB and AP) from
elementary to high-school,
emphasizing a multicultural
student environment and a
commitment to wellrounded
education at all levels.
SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL

SCHOOL
Residential Area No. 5,
Thanh My Loi, Q2, Tel: (08)
3742 7827
saigonstarschool.edu.vn
Supported by the Cambridge
International Primary Programme, SSIS integrates
Montessori methods into
nursery and kindergarten
programmes to create a
stimulating learning environment. Small class sizes

allow experienced teachers
to cater to individual needs.
SMARTKIDS
1172 Thao Dien Compound,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6076; 26,
Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3898 9816; 15 Tran
Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3519 4236
smartkidsinfo.com
This international childcare
centre provides children
ages 18 months to six years
with a high quality education
in a playful and friendly environment.
THE AMERICAN SCHOOL

OF VIETNAM
172-180 Nguyen Van Huong,
Q2, Tel: 0903 952223
theamericanschool.edu.vn
VAS
98 Cach Mang Thang Tam,

Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 7278
vas.edu.vn
INTERIOR DESIGN
PROFESSIONAL PAINTING AND
REMODELING
Tel: 0936 330869 (Darren
Hawk)
Thinking about upgrading a
bathroom? Perhaps a new
colour in the living room?
Maybe even a new wood
floor? Professional Painting
and Remodeling can help
with these and many other
projects. Provide international standards of quality
as well as professional and
timely service at reasonable
rates. Call today to schedule
a free evaluation.
INVESTMENT & FINANCE

DRAGON CAPITAL
1901 Me Linh Point, 2 Ngo

Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823
9355
dragoncapital.com
THE ETHICAL
INVESTMENT GROUP
27 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 0907
ethicalinvestmentgroup.
co.uk
TOTAL WEALTH MANAGEMENT
66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach,

Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 0623
t-wm.com
VINACAPITAL
17th Floor, Sun Wah Tower,
3821 9930
vinacapital.com
A leading investment fund
management company with
extensive experience in the
emerging Vietnam market.
Manages the Vietnam Opportunity Fund (VOF), which
is a US$839 million investment fund.
LANGUAGE SCHOOLS
ILA VIETNAM
146 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3521 8788
ilavietnam.com
A foreign-owned education
and training company that
offers a range of educational
programmes, such as English-language tuition, university pathway programmes,
corporate training, teacher
training and overseas study
consultancy and placement
services.
LATELIER
33/19 Quoc Huong, Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: 0908 381492
latelier-anphu.com
VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN

135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van,
Binh Thanh, Tel: 0916 670
771
vietnameselanguagegarden.com
VLS SAIGON
45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3910 0168
vlstudies.com
Offers courses ranging
from basic conversational
Vietnamese to upper elementary, intermediate and
advanced levels, as well as
special courses including
Vietnamese literature, composition or a 6-hour survival
crash course.
VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE

TRAINING & TRANSLATION
37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6678 0914
vnccentre.com
VUS
189 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,

Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9800
vus-etsc.edu.vn
LEGAL SERVICES
ALLENS
Suite 605, Saigon Tower, 29
Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
1717
vietnamlaws.com
BAKER & MCKENZIE

12th Floor, Saigon Tower,
3829 5585
bakermckenzie.com
FRASERS LAW COMPANY

Unit 1501, 15th Floor, The
Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2733
frasersvn.com
GIDE LOYRETTE NOUEL A.A.R.P.I.

18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 8599
gide.com
INDOCHINE COUNSEL
Unit 4A2, 4th Floor, Han Nam

Building, 65 Nguyen Du, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 9640
indochinecounsel.com
MAYER BROWN JSM

17th Floor, Saigon Tower,
3822 8860
mayerbrownjsm.com
MANAGEMENT TRAINING
EMBERS ASIA
80-82 Phan Xich Long, Phu
Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3822 4728
embers-asia.com
ERC INSTITUTE VIETNAM

38/ 6G Nguyen Van Troi, Phu
Nhuan, Tel: (08) 6292 9288
erci.edu.vn
G&H
6th Floor, Yoco Office Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9919
ghmsglobal.com
A 100 percent foreigninvested company focusing on
management services and
consulting with inhouse
programmes to meet the
particular requirements of
its clients. Offers teambuilding and academicbased
business and management
programmes.
XAGE CONSULTANCY
35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412
3402; 31st Floor, Saigon
Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911
0454
xageconsulting.com
MARKET RESEARCH
CIMIGO
Thanh, Tel: (08) 3822 7727
cimigo.vn
An independent marketing
and brand research specialist operating in the Asia
Pacific region. Services include auditing and optimising research programmes,
knowledge management,
developing marketing plans
and business models and
assessing market opportunities.

com
MEKONG RESEARCH

Thanh, Tel: (08) 6258 6314
mekongresearch.com
NIELSEN
CentrePoint Building, Level

4, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu
Nhan, Tel: (08) 3997 8088
vn.nielsen.com
TNS VIETNAM
3930 6631
Tnsvietnam.vn
With over 11 years in the

marketplace, TNS Vietnam
offers all three major market
research services customisation, access panels
and media monitoring to
a range of local and international clients.
PHOTOGRAPHY SERVICES
DRAGON IMAGES
Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat
Tien, Q7, Tel: 01643 172 660
dragonimages.asia
Dragon Images production
studio is a professional team
of photographers, stylists.
shooting administrators,
casting managers and retouchers. They make photos
on various topics, from business to sport.
PUBLIC RELATIONS
MATTERHORN COMMUNICATIONS
Level 5, 273-273B Ben
Chuong Duong, Q1, Tel: (08)
3838 5517
matterhorncommunications.com
Providing public relations
and communications support to international and
local firms operating in
Vietnam. Specialising in
corporate communications,
media relations, corporate
social responsibility and
media and issues management and training.
VERO PUBLIC RELATIONS

7th Floor, 5B Ton Duc Thang,
Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 0462
veropr.com
Helps clients expand their
footprints in Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand and Myanmar through effective
public relations campaigns.
Services offered include
branding, media relations,
event management, public
affairs and issues / crisis
management.
RECRUITMENT & HR
ADECCO VIETNAM
11th floor, Empire Tower, 26
- 28 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3915 3430
adecco.com.vn
Adecco is the world leader in
human resources solutions.
Established in Vietnam in
2011, Adecco offers a wide
array of global workforce
solutions and specialises in
finance & legal, sales, marketing & events, IT, engineering & technical, and office.
HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC

1st Floor, Thien Son Building,
5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel:
(08) 6288 3888
hr2b.com
HCMC
JOB SEARCH
YOUTH UNEMPLOYMENT
n 2014, global unemployment broke

the all-time record, with 201.8
million people without a job, and
an unemployment rate of 6 percent,
unchanged from 2012. It is estimated
that there will be more than 215 million
jobseekers by 2018. In the Asian region,
the unemployment rate stood at 4.3
percent in 2014. Compared to others,
Vietnam has the third lowest rate (2.08
percent), after Thailand (0.8 percent) and
Singapore (1.90 percent), and followed
by Malaysia (2.70 percent).
For Asia, the lack of available candidates
is the most pressing challenge, preventing
3 out of 10 employers from hiring enough
qualified people to meet their needs. A
few key reasons include the gap between
academic training and hiring demands,
and the availability as well as quality of
the skilled workforce. Despite companies
struggling to fill jobs, the proportion of
young people Neither in Employment,
nor in Education or Training (NEET) has
continued the steep upward trend recorded
since the start of the financial crisis. In
some countries, almost one-quarter of
young people aged 15 to 29 are now NEET.
Youth Unemployment in Vietnam

in 2014
Since joining the WTO, Vietnam has
become a candidate-driven market and
remains so, despite a sluggish GDP
increase of 5.98 percent in 2014. In 2014, the

top-five in-demand positions in Vietnam
by job category were finance, sales,
engineering, IT and HR. However, there is
a gap between supply and demand, most
visibly in finance.
Although it has a young population,
Vietnam also faced similar challenges
with youth unemployment in 2014, where
almost 17 percent of young jobseekers are
fresh university graduates. As the economy
slowly recovered, companies both
domestic and international became pickier
at senior levels.
While qualified and experienced
candidates will continue to be hired,
younger graduates will face more
competition. This is due to a competency
gap between the needs of employers and
the capabilities of new job seekers; only
the fittest will survive and get hired. This
is considered a huge concern for Vietnam
moving forward, as it needs to create one
million jobs a year to maintain its low
unemployment rate.
The Role of Private Employment

Agencies in 2015
Under the shift from an agricultural to
manufacturing-based economy, the need
for a flexible workforce in Vietnam has
become more prevalent. With the need
for a skilled workforce and with youth
unemployment rates rising, private
BY NICOLA CONNOLLY
employment agencies are expected to

play a more important role by creating
a stepping stone into permanent
employment via the services of temporary
staffing not only providing jobs but also
giving the training required.
Worldwide, private employment
agencies employ 9.5 million people, with
over 700,000 jobs created through the use
of this temporary workforce. The top 10
agencies in Vietnam employ over 13,500
people, and generate revenue in excess of
42 million per annum.
However, for Vietnam to fully leverage
the roles of private employment agencies
and ensure full protection of employees
rights, there needs to be a move to
internationally recognised principles
governing private employment agencies.
Penalties should be enforced against
rogue agencies, which do not adhere
to regulations and fail to meet their
obligations or safeguard workers rights.
It is also necessary to remove the
imposed maximum term of the labour
sublease agreement, which requires
enterprises to change workers every 12
months. Such term entails a significant
training burden, particularly as 65 percent
of Vietnams workforce is still deemed
unskilled.
Nicola Connolly is the general director
of Adecco Vietnam and chairwoman of the
European Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam
HCMC
G.A. CONSULTANTS VIETNAM
CO., LTD.
Ho Chi Minh Office: Room 2B2C, 2nd Floor, 180 Pasteur,
District 1, HCMC.
Ha Noi Office: Room 603, 6th
Floor, 535 Kim Ma Street, Ba
Dinh District, Hanoi.
www.vieclambank.com
info@vieclambank.com
VieclamBank is a brand of
G.A. Consultants Vietnam - a
Human Resources Consulting company with 100% Japan investment. Established
in 2006 in Vietnam, the company focuses on recruiting
executive and senior level,
providing Vietnamese and
Japanese candidates with
experience studying abroad
or working in foreign companies. A quick, effective
and competitive service
suitable for many types of
business.
VIETNAMWORKS.COM
130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1,
Tel: (08) 5404 1373
vietnamworks.com
RELOCATION AGENTS
CROWN RELOCATIONS
2nd Floor Coteccons Office
Tower, 236/6 Dien Bien
Phu, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08)
3840 4237
crownrelo.com
CITYVIEW

3822 1111
cityview.com.vn
JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS

1st Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4,
Tel: (08) 3826 7655
jvkasia.com
Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods,
JVK is a leader in the field.
LOGICAL MOVES VIETNAM

396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh,
Q4, Tel: (08) 3941 5322
logicalmoves.net
Specialists in international,
local, domestic and office moves for household
goods and personal effects
through our global partner
network. Experts in exporting used scooters that do not
have documentation.
RESIDENT VIETNAM
Unit 601 48 Hoa SU, Phu
Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855
residentvietnam.com
INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA
SAIGON RESIDENCES
Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van
Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 8888
intercontinental.com/saigonres
Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana Saigon youll
find 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. The
residences offer panoramic
views of the downtown area.
NORFOLK MANSION
1719-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 6111
norfolkmansion.com.vn
Offers a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished
accommodation with attentive and discreet service.
Facilities include an outdoor
swimming pool, a gym, sauna
and steam room, as well as
two on-site restaurants.
SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES

AGS FOUR WINDS (VIETNAM)
5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0071
agsfourwinds.com
A global leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices
globally, we can move your
property to and from any
location.
ALLIED PICKFORDS
12th floor, Miss Ao Dai Building, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1220
alliedpickfords.com
With more than 800 offices
in over 45 countries, Allied
Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services. In Vietnam, Allied also
provides tailored relocation
services.
8FL, Thien Son Building, 5

Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel:
(08) 3933 0065
santaferelo.com
With over 150 offices around
the world, Santa Fe offers
local and international
moving, pet transportation, relocation services
including home search, orientation, cultural training,
immigration services and
records management. Email
Vietnam@santaferelo.com
for info.
SERVICED APARTMENTS
CAM LY HOTEL & APARTMENT
656 Cach Mang Thang Tam,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3993 1587
camlyapartment@hcm.
vnn.vn
DIAMOND ISLAND LUXURY RESIDENCES
ASIAN TIGERS MOBILITY

Unit 9.3, Floor 9, Ree Tower,
9 Doan Van Bo, Ward 12,
District 4, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3
826 7799
www.asiantigers-mobility.
com
Asian Tigers is one of the
largest regional move management specialists, with
services including door-todoor moving, housing and
school searches, local and
office moves and pet relocations.
No 01 Street No.104-BTT,
Quarter 3, Binh Trung Tay,
Q2. T: 0968 293388 / (08)
3742 5678
enquiry.hochiminh@theascott.com
the-ascott.com
Diamond Island Luxury
Residences offers 68 fullyfurnished apartments, from
two to four-bedroom units
with spectacular panoramic
views of the city. Each apartment comes with a fullyequipped kitchen, en-suite
bathrooms, separate work
and living areas, a balcony,
modern amenities, elegant
furnishings and carefully
chosen trimmings.
RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS
(08) 3744 4111
Riverside-apartments.com
Over four Saigon Riverbank
hectares, Riverside Apart-
ments combines a resort

lifestyle with the amenities
of a fully serviced-apartment. Located minutes from
downtown by high-speed
boat shuttle.
SEDONA SUITES
65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
9666
sedonahotels.com.sg
SHERWOOD RESIDENCE
127 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08)
3823 2288
sherwoodresidence.com
Sherwood Residence is a
luxurious serviced apartment property where modern living spaces meet prime
location, comfort and class,
with fivestar facilities and
service.
with separate living and

dining areas, as well as a
fully equipped kitchen where
guests can prepare a meal
for themselves, their family
and friends.
THE LANDMARK
5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 2098
thelandmarkvietnam.com
65 serviced apartments located in the city centre overlooking the river. Also has a
comprehensive health club
for tenants and members,
a squash court and a 16th
floor swimming pool.
AIRLINES
AIR ASIA
www.airasia.com
AIR FRANCE
130 Dong Khoi, Q1
Tel: 3825 8583
www.airfrance.com.vn
AIR MEKONG
1st Floor, Centre Point
Building, 106 Nguyen Van
Troi, Phu Nhuan
Tel: (08) 3846 3999
www.airmekong.com.vn
AMERICAN AIRLINES
194 Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q3. Tel: 3933 0330
www.aa.com
CATHAY PACIFIC
SERVICED APARTMENTS
SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES
SCORE-TECH
8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1,

Tel: (08) 3822 8899; 21-23
Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 9197; 628C
Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2,
Tel: (08) 6255 9922
somerset.com
Somerset Chancellor Court,
Somerset Ho Chi Minh City
and Somerset Vista Ho Chi
Minh City serviced residences combine the space
and privacy of an apartment with the services of a
top-rated hotel. They come
260 TTH21, Tan Thai Hiep,

Q12, Tel: (08) 3711 9958
A 100 percent foreigninvested company offering
personalised sport garments. Using the latest printing technology as well as a
design team from Barcelona,
Score-Tech controls the
whole production process
from producing fabrics and
sewing to printing. Big and
small orders of garments
produced for all sporting
needs.
5th Floor, Centec Tower,

72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q3
Tel: 3822 3203
www.cathaypacific.com/
vn
CHINA AIRLINES
37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1
Tel: 3911 1591
www.china-airlines.com
JAPAN AIRLINES
3rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel,
88 Dong Khoi, Q1
Tel: 3821 9098
www.vn.jal.com
JETSTAR PACIFIC
www.jetstar.com/vn
KOREAN AIR
34 Le Duan, Q1
Tel: 3824 2878
www.koreanair.com
LAO AIRLINES
93 Pasteur, Q1
Tel: 3822 6990
www.laoairlines.com
MALAYSIA AIRLINES
Ground Floor, Saigon
Thang, Q1
Tel: 3829 2529
www.malaysiaairlines.
com
SINGAPORE AIRLINES
Saigon Tower Bulding,
Room 101, 29 Le Duan, Q1
Tel: 3823 1588
www.singaporeair.com
THAI AIRWAYS
29 Le Duan, Q1
Tel: 3822 3365
www.thaiairways.com.vn
TIGER AIRWAYS
www.tigerair.com
VIETJETAIR
www.vietjetair.com
VIETNAM AIRLINES
27B Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1
Tel: 3832 0320
www.vietnamairlines.com
HCMC
BODY
AND
TEMPLE
THE FIZZY FIEND
BY PHIL KELLY
he real problem with the modern

human diet is that we are not
eating enough real food. Rather we
are eating products that interrupt
our auto-regulatory system, which causes
toxin build-up and fat storage. The best
way to lose weight and feel great in the
2015 is to simply cut out all the fiends, the
villains and nasty food-like substances
from your diet. One of the biggest culprits
is soda the fizzy fiend!
Its incredible to think that the single
biggest source of calories for Americans
isnt vegetables, bread, pasta or Big Macs
its soda. The average American drinks
about two cans of the stuff every day. This
is becoming a common statistic throughout
the world. Thats an equivalent of 18 to 20
teaspoons of sugar in just two drinks.
What could be so bad about having
a little of natures sweet goodness once
in awhile? The answer is nothing, if you
really only are having just a little unrefined
sugar only once in a while.
But in the last 20 years, sugar
consumption has skyrocketed. Over
this short time period, sugar intake in
the US has increased by 519 percent
(from 11kg to 61kg of sugar per person
per year!). The correlation between the
rise in sugar consumption and chronic
disease is staggering. In the early 1900s,
cardiovascular disease and cancer were
virtually unheard of when the average
sugar consumption
was only 2kg per
person per year.
Soda has been the
biggest modern day
influencer on sugar
consumption and
disease risk. In
fact, drinking
just one sugarsweetened
beverage per
day has been
linked to a
20 percent
increase in
risk of having
a heart attack.
The Harvard
School of Public
Health also
found that the
risk increased
along with the
quantity of
sugary drinks
consumed.
Diet Soda
This growing awareness of sugar and its
empty calories has prompted a switch
to consuming sugar-free, zero-calorie
and diet beverages. The American Journal
of Nutrition claims that, among adults,
consumption of these drinks has increased
by 25 percent, and children are consuming
more than double the amount they did in the
last decade.
However, the biggest problem with soda
and especially diet soda isnt the sugar or
the calories. But surely because diet soda
is sugar and calorie-free it is healthier and
wont make me fat. Right?
The reality is that all soda, pop or fizzy
drink is bad for you. Diet fizzy drinks
are even worse than their sugar-laden
accomplices. One recent study found that
those who drank diet soda regularly were
40 percent more likely to have a heart
attack or stroke. This research proves
that reduced calories are the least of your
concerns.
Below are six disturbing facts about what
these fizzy drinks do to your body, that dont
get much attention in discussions about soda
and their impact on your health.
Aspartame
The key ingredient in diet soda has been
found to increase hunger. So while your
drink is calorie-free, you may end up eating
more.
Caramel Colour
A brown colouring that contains
2-methylimidazole and 4-methylimidazole,
chemicals that have been linked to lung,
liver and thyroid cancer.
Sodium
Diet soda has been linked to an increased
risk of stroke, and scientists think the high

sodium content could be the culprit.
Phosphoric Acid and Caffeine

Scientists speculate that the phosphoric
acid and caffeine in soda contribute to
osteoporosis. This is of particular concern
for women. A group of researchers found
that women who reportedly drank just
three sodas a week had an average of 4
percent more bone loss at important sites in
the hips than women who drank any other
beverage.
Flavour Additives
Sugar is not the only ingredient that will
erode your teeth in soda. The acidity of
soda is very high (with a pH of 3.2), and
along with food additives in flavoured
versions (such as ginger, cherry and
lemon-lime versions) have been proven to
contribute to the erosion of tooth enamel.
Bisphenol A (BPA)
BPA is an endocrine disruptor that has
been linked to everything from heart
disease, reproductive disorders, obesity
and immune system disorders. Soda cans
and plastic bottles contaminate the liquid
with BPA.
In Short...
Diet or sugar-free soda may have less
calories, but they still disrupt your
metabolic processes and poison your body.
Thats a lot of risk for one small beverage!
Skip the soda your body wont miss
it in the long run and youll be amazed at
how much better youll feel.
Phil is founder and master trainer at Body
Expert Systems. Contact him on 0934 782763,
at bodyexpertsystems.com or through Star
Fitness (starfitnesssaigon.com)
HCMC
downtown
DISTRICT 1
Downtown
Pham Ngu Lao
BARS & CLUBS / CAFES & ICE-CREAM / CLOTHING &

ACCESSORIES / COOKING CLASSES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT /
FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GALLERIES / GROCERIES, LIQUOR &
WINE / HAIRDRESSERS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS
DANCE / NIGHTCLUB
2B-C-D Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 6124
apocalypsesaigon.com
BEER REPUBLIC
MODERN BEER HALL

92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel:
0945 858034
facebook.com/BeerRepublic
BLANCHYS TASH
RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB
0909 028293
Blanchystash.com
BOOTLEG DJ CAF
MINIMALIST CAF BAR

9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 0907
609202.
bootlegsaigon.com
Reminiscent of a New York
or London underground
watering hole, this is a great
place to enjoy Mediterranean influenced breakfasts,
lunch by day and a variety of
DJ sets by night.
BOUDOIR LOUNGE
HOTEL LOUNGE BAR

Saigon Sofitel Plaza, 17 Le
Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555
BROMA
COCKTAILS / ROOFTOP
3823 6838
Bromas medieval rooftopcocktail lounge conglomeration is a magnet for the
citys weirdest and coolest
events/random moments.
A sophisticated cocktail
menu and quite possibly the
best lamb burger in town.
Check out their bun bo Hueinspired cocktail.
CARMEN
LIVE MUSIC / BAR

8 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 7699
CUNHOUSE
LOUNGE BAR
Hem 36, Chu Manh Trinh, Q1,
Tel: 0908 033982
TECHNO / DANCE / HIP-HOP

3A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
0919 206461
fuse.vn
GAME ON
SPORTS BAR
115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel:
(08) 6251 9898
gameonsaigon.com
HARD ROCK CAFE
LIVE MUSIC / WESTERN RESTOBAR

Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le
Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7595
hardrockcafe.vn
ICE BLUE
EXPAT BAR
3822 2644
Expats keep returning to
this smoky dive bar, largely
due to its amicable service,
brewsky-downing atmosphere, and spirited dart
games. A mainstay in the
local darts league.
LA HABANA
CUBAN / MUSIC BAR

6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 5180
lahabana-saigon.com
Cuban-themed bar and
restaurant selling an exciting range of Spanish and
Cuban cuisine, as well as a
few German favourites such
as curry wurst and Wiener
schnitzel. Nightly live music
and regular salsa classes.
LA FENETRE SOLEIL
FRENCH / JAPANESE RESTOBAR

44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 5994
A seductive watering whole
in a great corner location
thanks to its old Saigon glamour, Japanese-Vietnamese
fusion cuisine, imported
beer, classic cocktails, and
entertaining music events /
DJ sets.
LAST CALL
AFTERHOURS LOUNGE
59 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 3122
FRENCH BISTRO / WINE BAR

9A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08)
6291 0396
lerendezvousdesaigon.com
With such a meaningful
name - the meeting point
- this wine bistro boasts a
relaxed, friendly ambience,
perfect for unwinding with
an after work drink or to
enjoy time with friends.
Reasonably priced, has a
sharing French-cuisinestyle menu and an extensive
old and new world wine list.
LEVEL 23 WINE BAR
ROOFTOP LOUNGE BAR

Level 23, Sheraton Saigon
Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong
Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com
LEVEL 23 NIGHTSPOT
LOUNGE BAR / NIGHT CLUB

Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com
MARTINI BAR
LOUNGE BAR
3rd Floor, Caravelle Saigon,
19-23 Lam Son Square, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 4999
caravellehotel.com
Martinis with various combinations of premium spirits
and other fresh flavours
figure prominently on the
drink menu at this classic
Indochine-styled bar, all
put together by Caravelles
award-winning mixologists.
OBRIENS
IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL

74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 3198
irish-barsaigon.com
This Irish-themed sports
bar with classic pub dcor
is widely appreciated for its
excellent international fare,
large whiskey selection and
upstairs pool table. Great
pizzas. And for a real treat,
check out their zesty rolls.
PACHARAN
SPANISH RESTOBAR / LIVE MUSIC

97 Hai Ba Trung , Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 6024
pacharansaigon.com
Huu
C
Ng
uy
en
Le
ng
Th
an
g8
Ng
.H
ue
Le
Lo
i
ng
Ham Nghi
District 2
t
Kie
n
Va
Vo
Legs of Iberian ham hang

from the ceiling in the
downstairs bar of this multistorey homage to everything
Spanish. Regular first-floor
live music and excellent eats
makes it a mainstay for the
wining, dining and tapaseating crowd.
PARK LOUNGE
LOUNGE BAR & CAFE

Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam
Son, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234
An elegant, ground floor
venue in The Hyatt, perfect
for social and business
gatherings. As well as nightly
live music, serves afternoon
tea staples including warm
scones with generous portions of homemade jam and
clotted cream.
PHATTYS
AUSTRALIAN / SPORTS
46-48 Ton That Thiep, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3821 0796
phattysbar.com
From its roots as the famed
Caf Latin, Phattys has
become the go-to, Aussie
beer-guzzling / sports viewing emporium, showing everything from international
cricket to Aussie rules and
serving an array of pub grub
favourites.
SAIGON RANGER
cT
ha
n
Da
o
District
10
Ma
Du
h
an
Ng
uy
en
Ca
ch
Tr
u
Th
i
ie
n
an
Ba
Du
Bi
e
Ha
i
Hu
ng
LE RENDEZ-VOUS DE SAIGON
District 3
Kh
ai
Ph
APOCALYPSE NOW
FUSE
lastcallsaigon.com
If youre in need of dense,
soulful atmosphere and
maybe an artisanal cocktail on your way back from
wherever, Last Call is your
stop and fast becoming
that of the similarly inclined.
Great happy hour deals for
early evening starters.
Tr
an
TOP-END INTERNATIONAL
Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3824 1234
International dcor blends
seamlessly with local
themes. Style joins forces
with a wide-ranging drink
menu and hip dance tunes to
create one of the most tasteful if pricier bars in Saigon.
EXPAT / SPORTS BAR

58 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3915 2853
Subtle lighting, a pleasant
ambience, a pool table and
darts, this skinny but pleasant expat bar has the feel
of a drinking man's pub. A
place to have fun, drink beer
or spirits and get in with the
party mood. Known for its 15
shooter challenge.
To
n
Ho
2 LAM SON (MARTINI BAR)
DRUNKEN DUCK
an
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in
h
en
Ti
BARS & CLUBS
Binh Thanh
in
h
ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

5/7 Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 7300 0559
facebook.com/saigonranger
Aspiring to be a focal point
for artistic activities, the
space at Saigon Ranger has
been established to create
encounter and dialogue be-
District 4
tween different forms of art.

Boasts concrete floors, dark
wooden furniture, quirky
wall designs and a stage for
live music and other types of
performance.
SAIGON SAIGON BAR
LIVE MUSIC / ROOFTOP BAR

9th Floor, Caravelle Saigon,
Tel: (08) 3823 4999
caravellehotel.com
This iconic bar is a great
place to watch the sun go
down over the city and relax
for a few drinks with friends.
Has live entertainment six
nights a week courtesy of
resident Cuban band, Qvans,
from 9pm Wednesday to
Monday.
SHRINE BAR
STYLISH LOUNGE BAR

61 Ton Thap Thiet, Q1
shrinebarsaigon.com
Shrine creates a drinking
and dining experience in
a temple-like atmosphere.
Inspired by Bantay Srei, a
temple from the ancient Angkor kingdom, the walls are
covered in statues depicting
ancient Khmer gods and
kings. With ambient lighting
and town tempo music, here
its all about good cocktails
and an even better atmosphere.
STORM P
DANISH / INTERNATIONAL
5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 4738
Stormp.vn
THE CUBE BAR
HIP RESTOBAR
31B Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel:
0903 369798
facebook.com/thecubesaigon
A sleek, industrial looking
restobar with edgy dcor
and just a hint of Spanish
style. Tapas, sangria, Iberian-influenced cocktails and
an emphasis on all things
Latin.
THE OBSERVATORY
BAR, ART & DJ SPACE
5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, (Opposite Elisa Boat)
Known for its late night parties and focus on international artists, Observatory
is now at a bigger space in
District 4. Complete with a
new balcony overlooking
the Saigon River and an even
larger sound system, The
Observatory is a key node
in the Asian underground
music circuit.
THE ORIENT
SPORTS / LIVE MUSIC BAR

24 Ngo Van Nam, Q1
facebook.com/theorientbarsaigon
An attractive, spacious,
brick-wall interior, a long
bar, high table seating, big
screens, a pool table and
live music. A great venue for
a few beers and more.
VASCOS
MUSIC / LOUNGE BAR

The Square, 74/7D Hai Ba
Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824
2888
Vascosgroup.com
A veteran fixture of Saigons
nightlife scene, Vascos offers a softly lit downstairs
patio, and an upstairs Blue
Room chill out lounge area
with regular live music.
HCMC
COFFEE CUP
THE CHAPEL
ts not often that the World Building

of the Year goes so unheralded in its
own city. Yet thats the situation of
The Chapel local firm a21 studios
thusly-recognised caf, facing the river in
the eastern reaches of Binh Chanh.
Digging deep on Google, we got
past re-blogs of the World Architecture
Festival awards a ceremony thats been
nicknamed the Architectural Oscars
and finally found a Facebook page. The
photo posts from the months since opening
lacked the clean lighting of the ones on
design blogs, with the blown-out contrast
of smartphone photos.
On behalf of the festivals judging panel,
WAF Programme Director Paul Finch
said, The judges felt this was a project
that embraced history and modernity, and
created a dialogue in the process. It has
created maximum effect with minimum
materials and has produced an unexpected
change of pace in its urban context.
We headed out of downtown on the
Nguyen Van Cu Bridge to see how the
caf had evolved from such promising
beginnings. What we found seemed to fall
short.
The Caf
It was hard to tell if it was the pedigree of
the beans or the over-steamed milk that
left my taste buds with a flat finish every
time I took a sip of my latt, beneath the
flavour-obscuring chocolate rosette. Its not

often that I find myself drinking further
down a cup to find the source of the bad.
(Counterpoint: photographer Franciss
mango smoothie was pretty good.)
The menu has the retro, French
industrial feel of Lusines. Split between
pizza and pasta, Italian and Vietnamese
coffee drinks, smoothies and Disaronno
sours, they cater towards a specific type of
taste bud. One which I definitely lack.
The music (on the poppy side of easy
listening) and neighbours (on one side,
a leaf burner, on the other, a house thats
been under construction for a few months)
also failed to complement the unique feel
of the space.
The Space
The building itself was less shimmering
than Id been led to believe creamcoloured paint already peeling off the
reclaimed corrugated metal that made
up the cafs two walls and A-frame roof
(theyre waiting till Tet to repaint it,
Francis told me). The failing, indirect
sunlight didnt light up the colour panels
as Id seen in the photos. Steaks of dirt and
odd angles created uneven shadows.
But as the light fell, the charm of the
place began to emerge. The dangling
circles of incandescent bulbs exerted
stronger halo effects than they had
previously, giving the wooden tables
and floors a generous shine. Trees on

either side of the space were backlit, and
splashed light onto the colour panes. I
Want to Know What Love Is followed by
You Raise Me Up didnt seem entirely
unpleasant.
The Chapel was awarded on the basis
of its potential as a communal space, in
an area were rapid development has left
this need out of the equation. And its
still too early to judge it on this count.
Lead architect Toan Nghiem told Word, I
believe that The Chapel is still on its way
to being a community space. For example,
there are many different activities such
as weddings, exhibitions or year-end
company meetings that are organised in
this place. We are working closely with
the owner to make sure that the space is
adapted to a variety events.
As a curiosity, an experiment, The
Chapel works and youll never find this
reviewer panning the drive to innovate.
But cafs have found social footholds as
comfortable, lived-in spaces, and its here,
for me, that The Chapel fails.
The good news is that its only by
a matter of degrees. For the sake of
interesting cafs citywide, lets hope they
make the adjustments necessary to get it
right. Ed Weinberg
The Chapel is at 136 So 1, KDC Trung
Son, Binh Chanh, Ho Chi Minh City, and on
facebook.com/chapel.vn
HCMC
VESPER BAR
INTERNATIONAL
Landmark Building, 5B Ton
Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
9698
Headed up by well-known
chef Andy Ertle, Vesper Bar
is a sophisticated yet downto-earth wine and cocktail
bar. Serving creative, Japanese-influenced tapas to
supplement the drinks, the
subtle lighting and loungestyle atmosphere makes this
a great drinking and dining
venue
VINO
WINE BAR / TAPAS

The Square, 74/17 Hai Ba
Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 6299
1315
1 Duong 2, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:
(08) 6281 9059
vinovietnam.com
This downtown wine shops
terrace is a popular after
work drinking spot, where
one can select from 10
wines by the glass, a range
of imported beer, and an
excellent tapas menu. Alternatively, buy from the
great selection of wines in
the shop and pay a small
corkage.
VINYL BAR
MUSIC & SPORTS BAR

70 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0907
890623
vinylbarsaigon.com
A small but popular bar
with all the shenanigans of
the nightlife scene set to a
backdrop of classic 60s, 70s
and 80s tunes. Has a darts
area out back and is a popular space for watching the
live English Premier League.
WINE BAR 38

3829 3968
With a huge selection of
self-imported wines from
Bordeaux, this classy but
contemporary venue is a
wine bar downstairs, and a
lounge on the first floor. Has
a French-Asian menu paired
to all the wines, with a huge
selection of the good stuff
sold by the glass.
WINE EMBASSY

13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 7827
wineembassy.com.vn
A two-storey, contemporarydesigned wine bar serving
30 wines by the glass, all
at reasonable prices. Has
an excellent food menu to
complement the old and new
world wines.
XU
CAF / LOUNGE BAR

71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3824 8468
xusaigon.com
This iconic upmarket downtown bar is known for its
cocktails and wine list. It
serves a range of international and Vietnamese dishes to be enjoyed in its richly
decorated interior. Regular
DJ nights.
ZANZBAR
LOUNGE BAR & RESTOBAR

19-21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 7375
Creative cocktails, an extensive wine list, subtle lighting,
international tapas and a
laid-back, lightbox-lit ambience are all part of the offering at the all-new ZanZBar
on the river end of Dong Khoi.
Popular with a businessy, international crowd.
CAFES & ICE-CREAM

AU PARC
EUROPEAN / MEDITERRANEAN
23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 2772
Auparcsaigon.com
Set in a shophouse-style
building, Au Parc offers a
chic colonial space to indulge in sensibly priced European and Mediterranean
food complemented with
good coffee and excellent
desserts.
BACH DANG
ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE

26-28 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 2707
BASKIN ROBBINS
ICE CREAM PARLOUR

1 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08)
7308 3131
baskinrobbins.vn
CASBAH
MIDDLE EASTERN
59 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 5130
This secluded Middle Eastern coffeehouse has both
cozy indoor and rooftop
seating to admire views of
the city. With such a prime
downtown location, expect
prices to match.
CENTRO
ITALIAN / CONTEMPORARY CAFE

Tel: (08) 3827 5946
Conveniently located near
the Caravelle Hotel, this
casual cafe serves one of
the best lattes in town with
a mid-range Italian menu
including panini and other
typical fare.
COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF
INTERNATIONAL
Metropolitan Building, 235
Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3508
7285
coffeebean.com.vn
Large portioned coffee lures
customers into the flagship
store of this international
caf chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu
to satisfy any sweet tooth.
CREPERIE AND CAF
FRENCH
3829 9117
Known for its fantastic
street-side seating opposite
the park on Le Duan and savoury crepes, this hang out
caf will impress you with its
location as much as its food.
FANNY

29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3821 1633
fanny.com.vn
GIVRAL CAF
INTERNATIONAL
80 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3915 3704
saigongivral.com
GOODY

(08) 3829 9339
GUANABANA SMOOTHIES
CONTEMPORARY JUICE BAR

23 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0909
824830
guanabanasmoothies.com
An American-style juice
bar and caf dedicated
to healthy, nutricious
smoothies that avoid the local obsession with sugar and
condensed milk. A pleasant,
contemporary environment
adds to the theme.
HAGEN-DAZS

6683 5899; 20 Le Thanh Ton,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0066
LUSINE
CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH
First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi,
Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565; 70B
Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521
0703
lusinespace.com
French-style wooden decor
compliments the spacious,
whitewashed contemporary
interior of LUsine. A simple,
creative menu combines
with reasonably priced coffee, and a fashion store and
art gallery out back. Second
location on Le Loi.
MAGONN THE CAFE

(08) 3822 9672
magonn.vn
Nested above Magonn boutique, is a bright and inviting space for everything
from drinks to bites. Coming
with a crowd? The attic is a
quaint little spot to fit a cozy
gathering.
M2C CAFE
44B Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 2495
facebook.com/m2ccafe
At M2C (Modern Meets
Culture), everything gets a
touch of modernity. From
the rich menu of Vietnamese food and drinks, shows
immense local culture, done
with a modern flare. Be seen
here at one of the latest popular joint in town.
PLANTRIP CHA
TEA ROOM
8A/10B1 Thai Van Lung
Street, Q1
Tel: 0945 830905
Tea, tea and more tea, all in
a contemporary, quirky environment. At Plantrip Cha
customers go on a sensory
journey to experience the
tastes and smells of teas
from across Asia, Europe,
America and the Middle East.
THE MORNING CAFE

2nd Floor, 36 Le Loi, Q1, Tel:
0938 383330
themorningcafe.com.vn
Have a book to read? Pick a
bright spot by the window
and get snuggly with the
comfy upholstery in this
second-floor cafe. With a
cup of well-brewed coffee, accompanied by some
background jazz, it is an afternoon well-spent.
THE PRINT ROOM
CONTEMPORARY CAFE
3823 4990
Second-storey coffeehouse
offers a quiet atmosphere
to chill out or read from
their book-nook collection.
Comfortable couch seating,
open table space and a cappuccino costs VND40,000.
TRUNG NGUYEN
INTERNATIONAL VIETNAMESE
80 Dong Khoi, Q1
trungnguyen.com.vn
ZEST BISTRO & CAF
INTERNATIONAL
5 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08)
3911 5599
This two-storey building with
a mezzanine level boasts an
industrial style complex with
block walls, steel structures
and huge glass windows.
The mid-range menu offers
over 40 options from appetizers to desserts.

ANUPA ECO LUXE
LEATHER & JEWELLERY

9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
2394
anupa.net
Monday to Sunday, 9am to
8pm
This centrally located unique
boutique has been converted into an eco-boutique
which exclusively retails
the complete Anupa leather
and semi-precious jewellery range as well as other
unique eco brands such as
bamboo eyewear, pendant
scarves and cushion covers.
DEBENHAMS
ADULT & CHILDRENS WEAR

Vincom Center, 70-72 Le
Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291
7592
GALLERY VIVEKKEVIN
DESIGN & JEWELLERY

6291 8162
galleryvivekkevin.com
9.30am to 8pm
This retail-cum-gallery
space specialises in contemporary and exclusive
handcrafted jewellery made
from handpicked gemstones
and raw materials. Exhibitions and gallery talks run
every month.
GEISHA & GEISHAS COFFEE AND

TEA HOUSE
CASUAL & EVENING WEAR

3829 4004
Contemporary ranges of
casual and evening wear
fused with Asian designs.
The apparel includes floral
dresses, jean skirts, printed
tees and street-style bags.
Enjoy a cup of coffee at their
caf after.
GINKGO
VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING
10 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521
8755
ginkgo-vietnam.com
Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run
store. Designs are inspired
by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom
wires and motorbikes to
creative, Siddharta-style
imagery.
IPA-NIMA
BAGS & ACCESSORIES

77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 3277; 71 Pasteur, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3824 2701
ipa-nima.com
9am to 9pm
LUSINE
LIFESTYLE / ACCESSORIES
First floor, 151 Dong Khoi,
Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565
lusinespace.com
Exclusive labels, elegant and
sophisticated clothing and
casual high-quality cottons
are stocked at this boutique/
caf. Lifestyle accessories
include shoes, homewares,
knickknacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles.
MANDARINA
TAILOR-MADE SHOES
(08) 3827 5267
SONG
ASIAN / FRENCH BOUTIQUE

1st Floor, Saigon Centre, 65
Le Loi, Q1; 75 Pasteur, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3914 4088
asiasongdesign.com
T&V TAILOR
TAILORS
3824 4556
triciaandverona.com
VESPA SHOP
VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS
Unit 66, Saigon Square, 7-9A
Ton Duc Thang, Q1
Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts,
riding gear, Italian helmets,
Respro face masks, DVDs,
books, bags, magazines,
posters and more. Rental
scooters and bikes available.
COOKING CLASSES
SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY
HOA TUC
3825 8485
saigoncookingclass.com
Learn to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local specialist Hoa Tuc. The
three-hour lesson, conducted by an English-speaking
Vietnamese chef, includes a
trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients for the class.
VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE

Suite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu
Trong, Q1,Tel: (08) 3827 0349
vietnamese-cooking-classsaigon.com
CRAFTS & FURNITURE

BELLAVITA
HIGH-END FURNITURE
Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3821 4201
bellavitafurniture.com
BOCONCEPT
DANISH FURNITURE
68-70 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 6604; The Crescent
Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Q7,
Tel: (08) 5413 7357
boconcept.vn
DIABOLO
FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES

3825 1803
9am to 8pm
EM EM
SOUVENIRS
38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 4408
8am to 9.30pm
LUXURY FURNITURE IN VIETNAM

Tel: 0909 042765
luxury-furniture-vietnam.
com
A complete and exclusive
TOP EATS
VILLA ROYALE
hen most people travel

they bring home a T-shirt
or a tea towel I buy a
chandelier and a desk!
David Campbell, January 2015
Villa Royale is David Campbells very
own antique treasure-chest. Hes the owner,
chef and objet dart collector whose by
now 18-month-old adventure in Saigon is
bringing back old world charm. Already
popular for reinvigorating the art of the
high tea, Davids laid back service and
opulent residence make the establishedin-the-west concept of eating in an antique
store a welcome addition to the city.
Tucked far enough away to achieve the
sense of escape that locals crave, first timers
to Villa Royale will quickly realise that the
linear experience of arriving, sitting down,
ordering and eating doesnt necessarily
apply.
When it comes to the food, theres no
doubt that Campbell is catering for a
western palate here treats you love from
home. But theres nothing so bourgeois
as a menu. Instead, David makes food
dependent on the best available ingredients,
so to order he will physically take you
through to his kitchen, past his collection of
antiques, and right up to the window of his
vintage bain marie.
Photos by Kyle Phanroy
There youll witness temptation itself.

Available to order are some dangerously
good desserts and slices, actively distracting
you from the more savoury but no less
delicious selection of filo pastries, bespoke
quiches and eclectically flavoured pot pies.
Making your choice here will be the hardest
thing youll do all day.
The Taste Test

Temporarily setting aside our own
early cake-lust on the day we visited,
photographer Kyle goes for the lemongrass
chicken and coconut cream pot pie
(VND180,000), while I choose the roast
chicken filo pastry with macadamia nut
and truffle cream (VND190,000). The filo
comes with a garden salad and altogether
its a fresh, light, yet surprisingly filling
meal. The pastry is crisp but flaky, not
unlike an old friend Ive missed. The
combination of macadamia and truffle push
it well beyond any filo Ive had of late, and
I finish every mouthful. Kyle echoes my
satisfaction with his pot pie as we continue
drinking the oxidating TWG Red of Afrika
tea (VND75,000 per pot) that David has
recommended.
Following our mains and another pot,
this time the TWG Singapore Breakfast
(VND75,000 per pot), we easily give in to
our pre-hatched dessert plans. I spring for

the passion fruit meringue (VND90,000)
while Kyle opts for the Dalat strawberry
cheesecake (VND90,000). Seemingly
drunk on the high life were now living
poolside gazebos and one-off art from
around the world will do that I simply
describe the rich strawberry cheesecake
as fluffy heaven and the passion fruit
meringue as like hoola hoops and ice
cream. Luckily I havent had an actual
drink, though a glass of sherry or perhaps a
cool martini wouldnt be out of place right
now.
Impressions
For first time visitors, Villa Royale is not an
easy find. Once there, though, it easily lives
up to its name and first impression, which is
grand. David really is the friendly guy from
his TripAdvisor reviews, and his finds from
around the world are amazing.
However, even for those not big on
antiques youll easily find enough reason
to visit again, because his food, his teas and
the sense of occasion the property delivers,
will all want make you come back.
Not bad for a guy who came out here to
retire. Jon Aspin
Villa Royale is at 8 Dang Huu Pho, Thao
Dien, Q2, Ho Chi Minh City
HCMC
HCMC
THE EMPTY WOK

PIRI PIRI CHICKEN
BY RICCHA ARORA
AA food
food blogger
blogger and
and self-styled
self-styled chef, this month
chef,Riccha
this month
Arora
AroraRiccha
ventures
into the world of
indulges Portuguese-African
her sweet tooth
spice
iri piri chicken was on my bucket

list for a long time, and Ive been
experimenting for a while now.
After couple of trial sessions I
finally landed on a winning combination of
ingredients for this authentic dish. Piri piri
simply means birds eye chilli pepper. It is
used in the cooking of Portugal, Angola,
Namibia, Mozambique and South Africa.
The sauce, however, is Portuguese.
So how do we make piri piri sauce at home
with the ingredients available in Vietnam?
Where do we find African birds eye chilli? I
found the solution ot sung do, or the long
red chillis you find in Vietnam. It works.
The beauty of this hearty meal is it is
flavoursome, spicy, easy and economical.
Thats why I recommend making the sauce
yourself, at home. You can also make it as
spicy or as mild as you wish something
you cant do if you buy piri piri sauce out
of a jar.
To get that crisp and tender combination
of sauce and meat, I cook the chicken on the
stove and finish it off in the oven grill.
Ingredients (Serves 4)
4 chicken thighs or drumsticks with skin on
Photo by Kyle Phanroy
Fresh long red chillis (ot sung do).

4 to 5 depending on how spicy you can
take it
2-3 cloves of crushed garlic
100ml of extra virgin olive oil
25ml of red wine vinegar
Juice of 1 lime
Juice of 1 lemon
1 tablespoon paprika
1 tablespoon oregano
Making the Sauce

1) Place the red chillies in the oven to dry
roast for 10 minutes.
2) Mix the olive oil, red wine vinegar,
crushed garlic, lemon and lime juice,
oregano and paprika, and whisk gently.
Place on the stove on a low flame for 2
minutes.
3) Once the chillis are roasted, remove
the green stems and add them to the oil
mixture. Heat and then simmer for 2
minutes.
4) Transfer the mixture to a blender and
blend into a fine paste.
The Marinade
1) Dry the drumsticks, slit them in the
centre and marinade with 3 to 4 tablespoons
of sauce on each piece.
2) Massage well and keep in the refrigerator
for a minimum of 45 minutes.
Cooking the Chicken

1) Pre-heat the oven to 170 degrees Celsius
for 10 minutes.
2) Place the marinated chicken on a grilling
pan and cook in the oven until they are
cooked 50 percent. Add 2 to 3 tablespoons
of sauce.
3) Take an oven tray and transfer the
chicken into it with all the juices and
leftover sauce.
4) Grill for 20 minutes until the chicken is
well cooked.
Piri piri chicken is best served with corn
on the cob, salad, French fries or even sticky
rice.
Riccha Arora runs the Facebook page Sassy
Kitchen facebook.com/arorassassykitchen
HCMC
range of furniture produced
by high-end furniture producers in Vietnam and also
in Europe (Austria, Denmark,
Germany, Italy, France).
MEKONG CREATIONS
FAIR TRADE CRAFTS

35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:
(08) 2210 3110
mekong-creations.org
NGUYEN FRERES
NIK-NAKS / CRAFTS
3823 9459
8am to 8pm
NINH KHUONG EMBROIDERY
EMBROIDERED PRODUCTS
3827 9079; 42 Le Loi, Q1.
(08) 3824 7456
ninhkhuong.vn
SAPA
ETHNIC ACCESSORIES / SOUVENIRS

69 Dong Khoi, Q1
MEKONG QUILTS
HAND-MADE QUILTS
1st Floor, 68 Le Loi, Q1, Tel:
(08) 2210 3110
mekong-quilts.org
Al Frescos offers international, Australian-influenced

comfort fare in a pleasant
environment with efficient,
friendly service to match.
Excellent delivery service.
ASHOKA
NORTH INDIAN / CHINESE INDIAN

17/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 1372
33 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel :
(08) 3744 4177
ashokaindianrestaurant.
com
Long-running, awardwinning Indian restaurant
famed for its excellent kebabs, creamy curries and
Chinese-Indian fare.
AU PARC
EUROPEAN / CAF
3829 2772
auparcsaigon.com
Consistently tasty European
caf fare think deli-style
sandwiches, salads and
mezzes, plus coffees and
juices served at a popular park-side Le Duan location with classic cream and
green-tiled dcor.
NHA XINH
HOME FURNISHINGS
2nd Floor, Saigon Centre,
65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821
6115
www.nhaxinh.com
THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE
EUROPEAN-STYLE FURNITURE
3B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6657 0788
thefurniturewarehouse.
com.vn
EAT
3T QUAN NUONG
VIETNAMESE BBQ
Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1631
AL FRESCOS
INTERNATIONAL
38238424
alfrescosgroup.com
The downtown outlet of
one of Vietnams most successful restaurant chains,
BARBECUE GARDEN
VIETNAMESE / BARBECUE
135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 3340; 134-136
Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1
barbecuegarden.com
BASILICO
Ground Floor, Kumho Plaza,
Cnr. Nguyen Du and Le Van
Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9099
BIBI@ALIBI
5A Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 6257
The legendary chef Bibis
newest creation, a convivial
restaurant serving Mediterranean cuisine using fresh
products bought early morning at the market by Bibi himself. Delicious meats and fish
dishes together with the famous tarte tatin.
BLACK CAT
AMERICAN
13 Phan Van Dat, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 2055
blackcatsaigon.com
Creatively named burgers,
tasty Vietnamese-styled
sandwiches, spiced up
cocktails, mains and more,
all served up with a Californian edge at this small but
popular two-storey eatery
close to the river.
BAHDJA
87-89-91 Ho Tung Mau, Q1,
Tel: 0122 763 1261
bahdjarestaurant@gmail.
com
Located just beneath Au Lac
Saigon Hotel, Bahdja is Saigons first ever Algerian restaurant, serving authentic,
multi-ethnic Berber North
African and Mediterranean
cuisine cooked and served
in a traditional Algerian style.
Best experienced in a group,
this small but pleasant restaurants soothing ambience
is matched by the owners
genuine hospitality and
complimented by an array of
tasty tajines and couscousbased dishes. Make sure to
try the excellent Moroccan
wine, too.
BLANCHY STREET
JAPANESE / SOUTH AMERICAN

The Courtyard, 74/3 Hai
Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823
8793
The work of former Nobu
chef Martin Brito, the
Japanese-South American
fusion cuisine at Blanchy
Street is among the tastiest
and most unusual in the city.
All complemented by fresh,
contemporary decor and a
leafy terrace out front.
BOMBAY INDIAN
INDIAN MALAY
57-59 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel:
0903 863114
BROTZEIT
GERMAN / RESTOBAR
Level 1, Kumho Link, 9 Le
Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4206
brotzeit.co/kumholink
BUN CHA HA NOI
BUN CHA
26/1A Le Thanh Ton, Q1
CENTRAL PARC BANH MI

7 Bis Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 8549
Part of the Au Parc group,
this miniscule, New Yorkthemed sandwich shop does
creative lunchtime fare at
excellent prices think
baguettes, wraps, focaccia
and bagels. Excellent delivery service.
The comfort food on offer at this striking US-style

diner ranges from meatball
baguettes to chilli burgers,
pizzas, blackened chicken
salads and a selection of
more expensive international mains.
EL GAUCHO
5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 1879
elgaucho.com.vn
A pleasant downtown eatery mixing an Argentinian
steakhouse theme with pork,
chicken, lamb, homemade
spicy sausage, skewers,
burger dishes and everything that can come off a
grill.
CIAO BELLA
NEW YORK-ITALIAN
3822 3329
saigonrestaurantgroup.com
New York-style Italian restaurant offering a range
of tasty and affordable antipasti, pastas, and pizzas.
Friendly staff and rustic
bare brick walls adorned
with Hollywood film legends
make for a relaxed and attractive setting.
CORSO
STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL
(08) 3829 5368
norfolkhotel.com.vn
Although a hotel restaurant,
the enticing range of US and
Australian steaks plus great
grill and comfort food menu
in this contemporary eatery make for a quality bite.
Decent-sized steaks start at
VND390,000.
DRAGON NOODLE
JAPANESE NOODLES
3521 0008
ELBOW ROOM
AMERICAN
3821 4327
elbowroom.com.vn
GANESH
NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN

3823 4786
ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com
The ubiquitous mint sauce
is thick and creamy and the
curries are both authentic
and smoky. Ganesh is rated
by many as the best Indian in
town. Very friendly service.
GOLDEN ELEPHANT
CLASSIC THAI
3822 8554
saigonssk@vnn.vn
GOURMETS DELIGHT
ROAST KITCHEN CANTONESE

Unit 15, 1/F, Kumho Asiana
Saigon, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3521 8181
gourmetsdelight.com.vn
GRILLBAR
AIRCON STREETFOOD
(08) 3822 7901
facebook.com/grillbareaterycafe
Take a New York-style industrial atmosphere, add to
it a range of grilled dishes,
typical of the barbecue fare
youd find on the street, and
then add in three types of
rice and a range of organic

products. Close to Ben
Thanh Market, this is com
binh dan
HOA TUC
Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825
1676
Highly rated restaurant
with stunning outdoor terrace. Specialities include
pink pomelo squid and crab
salad, mustard leaf prawn
rolls, fishcake wraps and
barbecue chicken in ginger,
onions and a lime leaf marinade.
HOANG YEN
PAN-VIETNAMESE
3823 1101
HOGS BREATH CAF
Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3915 6066
hogsbreathcafe.com.vn
Mixing hearty pub grub
such as burgers, salads
and prime rib steaks with a
sports bar atmosphere, this
Australian chain also offers
regular promotions and a
4pm to 7pm happy hour. Excellent outdoor terrace.
INAHO
SUSHI / SASHIMI
4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 0326
JASPAS WINE & GRILL
INTERNATIONAL FUSION
Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827
0931
Alfrescosgroup.com
Although a chain restaurant,
the international offerings
here are consistently good
and creative. Excellent service, an attractive outdoor
terrace area, and a good
kids menu. Check out their
pepper steaks.
HCMC
STUDENT EYE
LUCKY MONEY
n a couple of weeks, as the beautiful

pink petals of the peach blossom
tree cover the streets, living rooms
and the backseats of motorbikes, our
wallets will also bloom with li xi (Tet
lucky money). New and old faces will
meet, greetings and blessings will be
shared, and red envelopes will pass from
the hands of the older to those of the
younger.
Though there are numerous reasons
to be excited for Tet, one big reason is
the red envelope. Children will become
extra polite and put on extra big smiles
to harvest Tet money from parents,
grandparents, family friends and even
some adults that they vaguely know of.
I remember coming back to my room
each night, sitting on the floor and
counting the stack of bank notes over
and over again. I was excited about the
money inside the envelopes, but looking
back, I realise that the real value was in
something else.
Pennies from Heaven

Unlike an allowance that merely allows us
to afford a normal childhood, Tet money
has always been something very special.
First of all, it is much larger in size:
what started with a single VND5,000
coin when I was eight slowly grew to
VND10,000 bills, then VND100,000 and
now, a couple of VND500,000 notes in a
single envelope. Not only that, while my
parents often try to impose their authority
and power over my allowance, I have
complete ownership and freedom over
the money I earn during Tet. Although I
often wasted the money on sweets and
snacks as a kid, it also came to be the
foundations of many new experiences. It
was with the Tet money that I created my
first bank account, bought my first mobile
phone (a Nokia-6021), and paid for my
first meal alone with my friends at KFC.
For a close friend of mine, it even paid for
a night out with his date.
While li xi seems to hold a number
of different meanings, such as fortune

or wealth, for the young me, it meant
new opportunities ones that became
some of my most treasured memories or
enlightening lessons in my life. I valued li
xi not for the number of zeros printed on
the bank notes, but more for the joy and
vast expanses of the experiences I could
afford with them.
As I will graduate this year and leave
the country, this may be one of the last
times I receive lucky money at Tet. As
unfortunate as that may sound, it also
excites me because the next time I return
to Vietnam for Tet, Ill have become old
and hopefully wealthy enough to be the
one handing out li xis. And instead of
wishing the young, hopeful children great
fortune or good grades, I will to wish
them new experiences, joyful memories
and invaluable lessons. Tae Jun Park
Tae Jun Park is a high school senior at
the United Nations International School of
Hanoi, unishanoi.org
HCMC
KABIN
CANTONESE
Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 815 Ton Duc
Thang. Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033
marriott.com
Offers authentic, gourmet Cantonese cuisine
in an elegant, classic setting, with striking
dcor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. Dishes range from VND80,000 to
VND900,000.
KOH THAI
CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION

Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 4423
Modern Thai fusion restaurant serving Thai
classics alongside tom yam cappuccinos and
more. Koh Thais creative cocktails merge
Thai flavours with local seasonal fruits and
herbs.
LE BANH MI
12 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 1036
LOLIVIER
FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN
Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 1555
sofitel.com
Exuding a southern Gallic atmosphere with
its tiled veranda, pastel-coloured walls and
ficus trees, this traditional French restaurant
has quarterly Michelin star promotions and
an award winning pastry team.
LA BETTOLA
LITTLE ITALY
84 Ho Tung Mau Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4402
labettolasaigon.com
Located in the heart of Saigon, La Bettola is
the only restaurant in town managed by two
Italian chefs and an Italian waiter. A woodfired pizza oven, a downstairs bar and a
stylish, elegant setting on the second floor
are part of the mix. As is the home-made
mozzarella, ricotta cheese, ravioli magro,
tortelli mushrooms, pappardelle and mascarpone cheese for the tiramisu, which is
made fresh every day. Has a great selection
of Italian wine.
LA CUISINE
FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN
48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 2229 8882
lacuisine.com.vn
This intimate, open-kitchened restaurant
bathed in white specialises in a mix of contemporary Mediterranean and French cuisine. Has a small but well thought out menu,
backed up with an extensive wine list.
LA HOSTARIA
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN
17B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1080
lahostaria.com
This downtown hideaway with rusticstyle
decorative trawls features fresh, light regional cuisine from across Italy. Try the carpaccio misto di pesce and agnello dantico.
Also specializes in excellent wood-fired
pizzas.
LE BOUCHON DE SAIGON
CLASSIC FRENCH / EUROPEAN FUSION

40 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9263
lebouchondesaigon.com
A sociable and popular French bistro serving up 100 percent organic, traditional Gallic
staples such as French onion soup, escargot,
and moules marinires, plus European fu-
sion dishes, and competitively priced world

wines.
modeled in the image of the Eiffel Tower, a

jungle-like atmosphere and views over central Saigon.
LE JARDIN
OSAKA RAMEN
CLASSIC FRENCH
31 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8465
Unpretentious but tasty French fare in a
relaxed garden setting within the French
cultural centre. The robust, bistro-style cuisine is very well-priced, and excellent, cheap
house wine is served by the carafe.
LUCCA
TRATTORIA-STYLE ITALIAN
88 Ho Tung Mau, Ben Nghe, Q1, Tel: (08)
3915 3691
A contemporary trattoria in the heart of
Saigon, serving home-cooked Italian cuisine
with New York flair in a beautifully designed
space with high ceilings. The menu features
both traditional antipasti and substantial
main courses.
LUONG SON
PAN-VIETNAMESE
31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1330
JAPANESE NOODLES
18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My
Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7
OPERA
Ground Floor, Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234
A contemporary, casual, trattoria-style restaurant with al fresco dining overlooking
the Opera House. Specialising in both traditional and contemporary Italian cuisine,
the restaurant also features an impressive
breakfast menu.
PACHARAN
SPANISH / EUROPEAN
97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6924
Legs of Iberian ham hang in the downstairs
bar at this multi-story bodega serving Spanish-styled tapas. Attractively decorated in
warm reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharans
food menu is traditionally Spanish.
PASHA
MAY RESTAURANT
19 21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3686
may.restaurant19@gmail.com
7am to late
Casual yet stylish, May places internationalstyle wining and dining in the heart of historic
Saigon. Subtle lighting, comfortable seating,
an extensive wine and cocktail list, and beautifully crafted comfort food from Europe, the
Antipodes and Asia all make up the mix at this
multi-floored restaurant and bar. Check out
their set lunches and happy hour.
TURKISH / INTERNATIONAL
25 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3677
pasha.com.vn
Sumptuous, Turkish-themed restaurant
close to the mosque with Islamic-style
MARKET 39
INTERNATIONAL BUFFET
Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3520 9999
MOGAMBO
PAN-AMERICAN / TEX-MEX
50 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1311
mogambo@saigonnet.vn
NAM GIAO
HUE CUISINE
136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 38
250261; 116 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3925 9996
namgiao.com
NHA HANG NGON
VILLA DINING / STREETFOOD

160 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7131
NINETEEN
Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son
Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999
caravellehotel.com
OMG!
FUSION CUISINE / LOUNGE BAR

Top Floor, 15-17-19 Nguyen An Ninh, Q1
A contemporary and attractive rooftop restaurant with a lounge bar just 50m from
Ben Thanh Market. Features a glass shell
HCMC
white dome dcor and comfortable, cushioned seating.
Authentically Turkish cuisine
with a sprinkling of western
fare thrown in.
PENDOLASCO
PAN-ITALIAN
36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel:
(08) 6253 2828
pendolasco.vn
Opening out into a large,
leafy terracotta-tiled garden area, this trattoria-style
Italian restaurant serves up
quality homemade pasta,
risotto, gnocchi, excellent
pizza and grilled dishes. Another branch downtoan at
87 Nguyen Hue, Q1.
and chic interior, Quan Bui

offers a wide selection of
Vietnamese cuisine which is
cooked in their open kitchen.
REFINERY
FRENCH BISTRO / INTERNATIONAL

The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0509
therefinerysaigon.com
A slightly retro feel pervades
this popular French-style
bistro and wine bar which
once housed the citys
opium refinery. The cuisine
runs from creative salads
through to Mediterranean
influenced mains.
REFLECTIONS
PIZZA 4PS
EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION
(08) 3822 9838
pizza4ps.com
This quirky but highly rated
Italian / Japanese fusion pizza parlour serves wacky yet
delicious pies such as tuna
curry pizza and calamari
seaweed pizza, as well as
more traditional varieties.
PROPAGANDA
CLASSIC VIETNAMESE / BISTRO

21 Han Thuyen, Q1
Part of the group that includes Au Parc and Refinery, Propaganda serves up
classic Vietnamese cuisine
in an atmosphere of barebrick walls interposed with
Propaganda Art murals and
prints.
QUAN BUI 2
TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE
17A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 1515
With its leafy roof garden
INTERNATIONAL / FINE DINING

3rd floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19
Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 4999
RIVERSIDE CAF
Renaissance Riverside,
815 Ton Duc Thang, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 0033
Offers versatile allday dining of international quality,
with the bonus of being able
to watch the action on the
river sidewalk. Features
western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets.
SAIGON CAF
INTERNATIONAL / BUFFET
Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com
PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE
Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21
Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 2221
shangpalace.com.vn
Featuring over 200 dishes
and 50 kinds of dim sum prepared by chefs from Hong
Kong, Shang Palace has nine
private dining rooms and a
main dining area seating
over 300. Good for events.
TANDOOR
SKEWERS
INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN
9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 4798
skewers-restaurant.com
Simple, unpretentious
Greek-influenced, international cuisine ranging
from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki,
a range of dips, mousaka,
osso buco and lamb chop
skewers. Also has an excellent upstairs cigar room.
SORAE
SUSHI SAKE LOUNGE

Level 24, AB Tower, 76 Le
Lai, Q1, Tel: 0938 687689
soraesushi.com
Set over two floors, this
astonishing, no-expensespared Japanese restaurant
and lounge brings to Saigon
the type of environment and
ambience youd expect of
New York, Singapore, Hong
Kong and Dubai. With the
dcor comes a modern take
on Japanese fare. A place to
see and be seen.
SEOUL HOUSE
KOREAN
33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 4297
seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr
SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT
An atmospheric Ho Chi
Minh City restaurant featuring simple and authentic
Vietnamese and Western
cuisine offered from an
impressive display of integrated show kitchens to
serve guests in five different
dining areas. Open for lunch
and dinner.
SQUARE ONE
TOP-END INTERNATIONAL /
VIETNAMESE
First Floor, Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 1234

(08) 3930 4839
Tandoorvietnam.com
TEMPLE CLUB
PAN-VIETNAMESE
29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3829 9244
Templeclub.com.vn
Once a hotel for Indian dignitaries visiting old Saigon,
the elegant and atmospheric Temple Club is one
of the citys best-preserved
buildings. Serving quality
Vietnamese and Indochine
cuisine at reasonable prices.
VESPER BAR
INTERNATIONAL / TAPAS-STYLE
Landmark Building, 5B Ton
Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
9698
Headed up by well-known
chef Andy Ertle, Vesper Bar
is a sophisticated yet downto-earth wine and cocktail
bar. Serving creative, Japanese-influenced tapas to
supplement the drinks, the
subtle lighting and loungestyle atmosphere makes this
a great drinking and dining
venue
WARDA
MIDDLE-EASTERN
71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 3822
info@wardavn.com
The deep colours, Arabic dcor and cushioned outdoor
terrace area give this popular venue its unique touch.
The food is good, too, taking
in tabouleh, houmous, falafel
and mutabbal, shwarmas
and more. Sells authentic
shisha.
THE BURGER CORNER
INTERNATIONAL
3821 0094
THE SWISS HOUSE SAIGON

54 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 2079
swisshousesaigon.com
Serving up authentic cuisine
spanning the three linguistic
regions of Switzerland, as
well as dishes from Bavaria
and Austria, this attractive,
two-floor Swiss-styled restaurant also boasts a beer
cellar in the basement.
TOKYO BBQ
JAPANESE BARBECUE
15A6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 2527
WRAP & ROLL

(08) 3822 2166; 111 Nguyen
Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8971
wrap-roll.com
of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine.
YAMANEKO
JAPANESE / OKINAWA
(08) 3823 8433
yamanekovn.com
Funky Yamaneko down an
alley off Le Thanh Ton offers delicious, unpretentious

Okinawan fare alongside
mainland staples. Does a
great set lunch deal.
YU CHU
TOP-END PAN-CHINESE
1st Floor, InterContinental
Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba
Trung & Le Duan, Q1
Tel: (08) 3520 9999
Skillful chefs prepare authentic hand-pulled noodles,
fresh dim sum and hot wok
dishes within an impeccably
designed open kitchen, as
diners look on. Stylish and
spectacular.
FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA

ANUPA YOGA
9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822

2394
anupa.net/yoga-anupa
CALIFORNIA FITNESS CENTRE
FITNESS CENTRE
Queen Ann Building, 2830
32 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291
5999
Cfyc.com.vn
NUTRIFORT
GENERAL FITNESS
2B1 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3825 8560
nutrifort.com
Offers fitness classes and
personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes
include power yoga, pilates,
circuit training, martial arts
and spinning. There is also a
spa and a restaurant serving
caloriecalibrated meals.
RENAISSANCE HOTEL HEALTH

CLUB
HEALTH CLUB & GYM

815 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 0033
HCMC
SAIGON FITNESS CO.
HEALTH CLUB & GYM

Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888
SHERATON FITNESS
HEALTH CLUB & GYM

Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com
SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE
HEALTH CLUB & GYM

3824 1555
THE LANDMARK CLUB
GYM, POOL, SQUASH

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc
Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
2098 ext. 176
In addition to the squash
court, facilities include a
fullyequipped gym room, a
rooftop swimming pool and
separate male and female
saunas.
GALLERIES
BLUE SPACE & PARTICULAR ART
GALLERY
97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3821 3695
bluespacearts.com
DOGMA
8A/9C1 Thai Van Lung, Q1
dogmacollection.com
The home of Vietnamese
propaganda art and a collection put together over the
last two decades by art collector Dominic Scriven, the
majority of the work comes
from the war period when
provocative poster art was
used to inspire and motivate.
Sells prints of the originals
and related products.
HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS

MUSEUM
97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 4441
baotangmythuattphcm.vn
PHUONG MAI ART GALLERY

129B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 3181
07 Phan Chu Trinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 3166
phuongmaigallery.com
deli upstairs in the Hai Ba

Trung branch serves tasty
baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free
WiFi, and offers probably
the best selection of cheese
and cured meats in town.
Free delivery for Districts 1,
2 and 3.
BACCHUS CORNER
WINE SHOP
158D Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 3306
bacchuscorner.com
A range of spirits, whiskies
and wines at affordable prices. Wines come from all over
the world with an especially
good selection from France,
Chile and South Africa. Also
has an excellent range of
single malts, top shelf tequilas and has an onsite
wine tasting machine, the
Enomatic, the first of its kind
in Vietnam.
DALOC
WINE SHOP
74E Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 5404 3575
daloc.vn
KIM HAI BUTCHERS
BUTCHERS
73 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3914 4376
kimhai.vn
PHUONG HA
GROCERS
58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3914 1318
RED APRON
WINE SHOP
22 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 0021
THE WAREHOUSE
WINE SHOP
(08) 3825 8826
One of the busiest wine retailers in town. In addition
to their excellent range of
wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled mineral water and spirits.
VEGGYS
GROCERS & DELI

29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 8526
41 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1,

Tel: (08) 3829 6298
MEDICAL & DENTAL

ACCADENT
INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le
Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8800
accadent.com
CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONALE (CMI)
FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC

3827 2366
cmi-vietnam.com
This French medical clinic
provides general practice
and a range of specialties
including cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy, ophthalmology, paediatrics and
acupuncture.
WESTCOAST INTL DENTAL CLINIC

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL
CLINIC
Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 6999
The Practice, Level 1, 71-79
Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825
6777
westcoastinternational.com
An international dental clinic
equipped with the latest
technology, the comfortable
clinics offer cosmetic and
implant dentistry with a focus on making each patients
experience anxiety and pain
free.
SALONS & SPAS

AQUA DAY SPA
Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828
aquadayspasaigon.com
FAME NAILS SALON

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC
INTERNATIONAL CLINIC
Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848
com
Fullservice 24hour
healthcare provider with
highlyqualified doctors
handling everything from
emergencies to tests and
Xrays, inpatient and out
patient care, checkups,
travel medicine and medical
evacuations.
3 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: 0909

682 827
famenails.com
GLOW SPA
129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 8368
glowsaigon.com
Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages
lasting from 30 minutes, to
two-hour hot stone therapy,
includes one suite with a

Jacuzzi bath; offers hand
and foot care and a hair
styling area.
INDOCHINE SPA
69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3827 7188
Indochine-spa.com.vn
Indochine Spa provides a
peaceful and serene atmosphere with aromatic
scents and lulling melodies.
Customers are pampered
by qualified therapists using
natural French products in
a clean and pleasant environment.
JASMINE
45 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3827 2737
Jasminespa.vn
Sparelated salon with a
good reputation for quality
and comfort offers washes
and leisurely haircuts from
VND330,000 plus a range of
related services including
massage and some excellent treatments.
Q SPA & SALON

31Q LY TU TRONG, Q1, TEL: (08)
3905 4609
Qspaandsalon.com
An old world, Indochineesque interior complete with
wooden floors, flowers and
flowing drapes makes this
an excellent atmosphere in
which to enjoy a massage.
Also offers hair styling and

facials.
ROSA BLANCA BEAUTY

23C Ton Duc Thang, Q1
Specialising in all forms of
skincare, this is welldesigned, ambient and outfitted
day spa offers body treatments as well as facials and
foot treatments.
SPA INTERCONTINENTAL AND

HEALTH CLUB
3rd Floor, InterContinental
Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba
Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3520 9999
THE SPA AT 1960 PRESIDENTIAL

CLUB
22nd floor, Sailing Tower,
111A Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08)
2220 2600
spa1960.vn
THE SPA
Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu
Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08)
3514 9007
Saigon Centre, 3M Floor, 65
Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1800
thespavietnam.com
THE SPA AT NEW WORLD HOTEL

76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888
XUAN SPA
Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son Square,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234
hyattpure.com
FV SAIGON CLINIC
3rd Floor, Bitexco Financial
Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6290 6167
fvhospital.com
Stateoftheart medical
centre located in District
1. Experienced American,
French, and Vietnamese
doctors provide the full
spectrum health care. Plus
sports medicine, cosmetic
treatments, skin care and
surgical consultations.
VINIFERA
GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE
WINE SHOP
7 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3521 0860
viniferavn.com
ANNAM GOURMET MARKET
VINO WINE SHOP
GROCERY & DELI

(08) 3822 9332
Annam-gourmet.com
Attractive and spacious
Frenchowned grocery
shop stocking a large range
of foods, organic fruit and
vegetables, imported beers
and wines. Also sells luxury
branded products from
the likes of Fauchon. The
HAIRDRESSERS
VENUS
WINE SHOP
(08) 6299 1315
Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines.
Also offers regular popular
wine courses. The outdoor
terrace area is the perfect
spot to sample a new vintage.
SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC
SKIN CARE / COSMETICS

Level 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3827 6999
sianclinic.com
The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic
offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to
treat problems by an experienced dermatologist and
facial care team. The clinic
utilises the latest therapies.
HCMC
pham ngu lao
BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING

& ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT /
GALLERIES
BAKERIES
CRUMBS
BAKERY
117 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08)
3836 1992
crumbs.com.vn
Dubbed the local bakery,
Crumbs serves up a variety
of baked goods including baguettes, muffins, cheese and
garlicbased buns and loafs,
meatfilled pastries, sweet
pastries, healthconscious
breads and more. There is
also a breakfast menu and
variety of sandwiches available.
TOUS LES JOURS
KOREAN BAKERY
(08) 3914 4350
BARS & CLUBS

BIA TUOI 33
BIA HOI
33 Bui Vien, Q1
BREAD & BUTTER
INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT
FOOD
40/24 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3836 8452
With a free book exchange,
and tasty Sunday night
roasts, the tiny Bread &
Butter is a perfect place for
homesick expats and beer
enthusiasts (excellent HueBrewed Huda beer served
here exclusively in Ho Chi
Minh City).
GO2
INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR
187 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
3836 9575
GODMOTHER BAR
RESTOBAR / VIETNAMESE /
WESTERN
3832 4589
godmothersaigon.com
Only a couple blocks from
the bru-haha of Bui Vien,
Godmothers is a small watering hole with big attractions including excellent
mojitos, good food, and the
weekly Optimus Club featuring international DJs.
LE PUB
INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR
Tel: (08) 3837 7679
Warm colors, artsy dcor
and a friendly ambiance
combine to create a perfect
setting for enjoying tasty international and Vietnamese

cuisine. Check out their daily
drink specials and Tuesday
night pub quizzes.
UNIVERSAL BAR
LIVE MUSIC / RESTOBAR

90 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 01633
343933
universalbarsaigon.com
LONG PHI
FRENCH / RESTOBAR
3837 2704
French-run but universally
appealing, Long Phi has been
serving the backpacker area
with excellent cuisine and
occasional live music since
1990. Excellent late-night
bistro cuisine.
SAIGON VIBRATIONS
REGGAE BAR
143 Nguyen Trai, Q1
facebook.com/saigon.vibrations
Just off The Pham, this intothe-early-hours reggae
inspired joint holds regular themed nights all in the
name of that most special
of sounds the one from
Jamaica.
SEVENTEEN SALOON
THEMED MUSIC BAR

103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3914 0007
seventeensaloon.com.vn
Wild West-themed bar
doubles as a music venue,
where three talented Filipino
bands (B&U, Wild West and
Most Wanted) play covers of
rock icons like Bon Jovi, U2
and Guns n Roses. Top shelf
spirits and friendly, hostess
style table service are the
name game here.
SPOTTED COW
CAFES
BOBBY BREWERS
INTERNATIONAL
3920 4090
bobbybrewers.com
Choose from a full range
of caf beverages and a
fast-food style menu as you
watch the latest Hollywood
hits in their upstairs lounge.
Check website for movie locations and schedule.
CHICCO DICAFF CAF
ITALIAN & VIETNAMESE

213 Bui Vien, Q1
facebook.com/ChiccoDicaffCoffee
Set just off the street on the
quiet end of Bui Vien, Chicco
Dicaff serves an expat and
local-heavy clientele takeaway coffees and flavoured
concoctions, from a five-seat
coffee bar.
INTERNATIONAL
157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 9347
coffeebean.com.vn
Large portioned coffee lures
customers into the flagship
store of this international
caf chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu
to satisfy any sweet tooth.
THI CAF
SOUVENIRS / CLOTHING
1B Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
2210 2084
8am to 10.30pm
DIVE BAR
57 Do Quang Dau, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3838 9839
MARATHON
LA CANTINA
BUDGET CLOTHING
3920 7442; 123A Bui Vien,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 0019
PAPAYA
BUDGET CLOTHING
232 Bui Vien, Q1
papaya-tshirt.com
THAI / VIETNAMESE
16 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837
1311
JJS FISH N CHIPS
FISH & CHIPS / STREET STALL

Cnr. 38B Tran Hung Dao & De
Tham, Q1
TEX-MEX / VIETNAMESE
Tel: (08) 3837 0760
BUDGET CLOTHING
3820 2620
9am to 10pm
U.BEST HOUSE
TRAVEL GEAR
163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel:
0978 967588
Ubesthouse.com
ITALIAN / TEX-MEX
Tel: (08) 3837 0760
PUNJABI INDIAN RESTAURANT
NORTH INDIAN / PUNJAB

40/23 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3508 3777
monuvn@gmail.com
Ignore the non-trendy, holein-the-wall appearance. This
side-street Indian serves
up some excellent fare at
reasonable prices, with a
number of Punjabi specialities to boot.
CRAFTS & FURNITURE

SAPA
ETHNIC ACCESSORIES / SOUVENIRS

209 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
3838 9780
EAT
3838 6661
babaskitchen.in
This pleasant, airy Indian
does the full range of fare
from all ends of the subcontinent, from dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka
masala, kormas, kebabs and
fiery vindaloos.
BURRITO REVOLUTION
SISTERS CAFE
VIETNAMESE/WESTERN
Tel: 0903 643446
Light wood paneling, beige
walls and locally themed
artwork help to create a
fresh and airy ambience in
this caf-cum-restaurant
that is owned by the woman
behind Chis Caf. Also does
visa extensions and motorbike rental.
TAM HAO HANDPULLED NOODLES

CHINESE NOODLES
195A De Tham, Q1
tamhao.com
Nothing gets better than a
bowl of tasteful broth and
hand-pulled Chinese noodles, especially when its
from Tam Hao. Hip interior
design draws many a traveller into this tasteful but
non-fancy hotel noodle restaurant, leaving them craving for more.

SKATEWEAR / STREET
641826
Bamskateshop.com.vn
BLUE DRAGON
GINKGO
VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING
54-56 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
6270 5928
ginkgo-vietnam.com
Quality, original, Vietnam-
CHIS CAF
40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3837 2502
Chiscafe.com
This affable caf is a rarity
in the backpacker area for
its genuinely good musical
playlist. Excellent, buildyour-own breakfasts, baked
potatoes, toasties, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a
popular motorbike rental
service.
TIN NGHIA
VEGAN
(08) 3821 2538
One of the citys oldest eateries (established in 1925)
does some of the cheapest
and tastiest vegan cuisine in
town, all cooked up without
onions, garlic or MSG.
MARGHERITA
ORANGE
TEX-MEX / STREET STALL

714882
BAM SKATE SHOP
T&R TAVERN
CORIANDER
BABAS KITCHEN
INTERNATIONAL / SPORT
3920 7670
Alfrescosgroup.com
Spotted Cow delivers the
fun-loving atmosphere that
its playfully decorated black
and white spotted interior
promises, as well as decent
international comfort food,
a range of happy hours, live
sports, and darts.
LIVE MUSIC / LOUNGE

224 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
2210 2929
themed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run

store. Designs are inspired
by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom
wires and motorbikes to
creative, Siddharta-style
imagery.
THE HUNGRY PIG
BACON BAR / CAFE

3836 4533
facebook.com/thehungrypigcafe
Think bacon, bacon and
more bacon, all set in airy,
spacious atmosphere, and
you get The Hungry Pig, an
eatery specialising in anything from the bacon butty
through to the bacon Caesar.
A popular hangout.
WRAP & ROLL

226 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
3837 5097
wrap-roll.com
of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Check
out the second floor, junglein-the-wall dcor at this
particular branch. Unique
and refreshing.
ZEUS
GREEK / KEBAB
3837 3248
ZOOM CAF
AMERICAN / TEX-MEX
169A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3920 3897
vietnamvespaadventures.
com/cafe_zoom
This corner-located Vespainfatuated venue is a caf
and restaurant by day and
a sidewalk drinking joint
by night. Friendly staff and
American deli-style and Cajun fare makes it a regular
expat haunt.
GALLERIES
GALERIE QUYNH
65 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
3836 8019
galeriequynh.com
In addition to working with
artists based in Vietnam,
Galerie Quynh also exhibits the work of artists from
around the world. This wellestablished gallery supports
education through talks, lectures and publications.

simply email us on
well try our best
HCMC
district 1
BARS & CLUBS / BOOKS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES

/ COOKING CLASSES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT /
FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GALLERIES / INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS
DISTRICT 1
Downtown
Pham Ngu Lao
Binh Thanh
in
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an
Tr
u
Th
i
ie
n
Le
Huu
C
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ha
n
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Th
an
g8
Le
Lo
i
ng
Ng
.H
ue
Ham Nghi
District 2
Hu
ng
Da
o
District
10
t
Kie
Tr
an
n
Va
District 4
Vo
BARS & CLUBS

BEER AND GRILL (BG SAIGON)
CONTEMPORARY BEER HALL

37 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1,
Tel: 0906 780081
CHILL SKYBAR
TOP-END BAR & TERRACE

Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le
Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372
chillsaigon.com
For the spectacular views
alone, Chill Skybar remains
the place to go to mix topend, outdoor terrace drinking around an oval-shaped
bar with cityscapes of Saigon. One of the top watering
holes in the city.
HOA VIEN
CZECH BREWHOUSE
3825 8605
hoavien.vn
vatory on the other side of

Pham Ngu Lao. Open late,
holds a number of nights
like Tropical Wednesday,
Thursday-before-midnightshots-only ladies night and
Underground Saturdays, all
in an attempt to pump things
up for the party seekers in
town.
BOOKS
LIBRAIRIE FRANCAISE NAM
PHONG
82 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08)
3914 7858
Nam Phong Bookstore was
founded at the of end 2002 in
Ho Chi Minh City as the first
and only francophone bookshop in the whole of Vietnam.
Only books written in French
are for sale, covering for all
ages and tastes. A catalogue
is available at namphongsaigon.com
MZ CLUB
LIVE MUSIC / NIGHTCLUB

56A Bui Thi Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3925 5258
m-zing.com
SAIGON VIBRATIONS
Du
Ng
uy
en
Ma
Du
Ba
h
an
Ng
uy
en
Kh
ai
Ph
n
Bi
e
To
n
Ho
Ha
i
Ca
ch
in
h
en
Ti
District 3
an
g
REGGAE BAR
143 Nguyen Trai, Q1
facebook.com/saigon.vibrations
Saigons first reggae bar
located close to The Obser-
CAFES
(A) CAFE
15 Huynh Khuong Ninh, Da
Kao, Q1, Tel: 0903 199701
Settle into the Javanesestyle interior and enjoy possibly one of the best brews
in Saigon. Using own grown
and specially sourced Dalat
beans, speciality coffee such
as cold drip, siphon, and

Chemex are must haves for
the avid coffee drinker.
BANKSY CAFE
1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,
Q1, Tel: 01699 990003
sam.nguyen197@gmail.com
A small but swanky cafe,
Banksy promises a young
and vibrant hideout in an
old 1960s-era apartment
building. Remember to head
up the steep stairs within to
dig into their secret stash of
clothes and accessories.
CAFE THOAI VIEN

159A Nguyen Van Thu, Q1,
Tel: 0918 115657
cafethoaivien.com
Veer off the street and find
yourself plunging straight
into lush greenery. Cafe
Thoai Vien serves up a
spacious and airy setting
to enjoy a quiet sip. From
small eats to big bites and
everything to drink, its a
great place to unwind from
all that buzz.
INTERNATIONAL
235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3833 3648
coffeebean.com.vn
HCMC
A WORLD
OF
WHEN NGOS GO BAD
GOOD
BY DANA MCNAIRN
Somaly Mam ran an NGO in Cambodia set up to combat the global sex trade before
it was discovered that her own personal story about being trafficked was fake
eavens, looks like those who

should know better are up to
it again. By that I mean the
continuing fallout from charities
that arent quite walking their talk.
Voluntourism is on the rise and with it
increasing reports of fake orphanages and
fake animal sanctuaries springing up to cater
to ill-informed travellers desire to do good.
But when well-intentioned NGOs go
bad, they go really bad.
The Cambodian anti-trafficking charity
much loved by celebs Somaly Mam
Foundation imploded spectacularly
last year, when investigations revealed
its namesake founder wasnt actually
a trafficking survivor and that she had
ordered a number of the female youth in her
shelters to exaggerate or outright lie about
their sexual exploitation. The foundation
issued a one-page apology scrupulously
avoiding the name of the disgraced
founder, stating it has officially ceased all
operations, ended all grant funding, and
permanently closed [its] doors.
Elsewhere, Save the Children (US) staff
have signed an internal petition demanding
that the global legacy gong awarded
to former British prime minister Tony
Blair by their organisation be revoked.

Blair was apparently acknowledged for
his contributions to fighting poverty and
climate change; however, those who didnt
join in raising a celebratory glass argue the
only thing Blair has fought is illegal wars,
calling the award morally reprehensible.
The American Red Cross has come
under intense scrutiny amid allegations it
lied about how many people it fed during
disaster relief on the east coast of the US
after Superstorm Sandy and Hurricane
Isaac. Officials ordered empty emergency
vehicles driven around to look busy
and then parked them as not-too-subtle
backdrops during press conferences. The
Livestrong Foundation used to be known
by another name, didnt it?
Its the staff I feel for: the women and
men working (or volunteering) for a cause
they believe in, only to be duped by the
founder or other head honchos. A young
woman confessed her doubt to me about
a city orphanage run by Buddhist monks
she and her brother had volunteered at.
She was confused, and possibly rightly so,
by the shabby state of the kids beds, food
and clothing. She was unsure what exactly
donations were being collected for at the
pagoda. Crikey, fake monks?
The Lesson in This

Rogue NGOs are, thankfully, the exception
not the norm, but when they fail its big
news because of the awfulness of the
deceit. It just makes it that much more
unnecessarily difficult for the legit ones.
Is this a sign of the increasing lengths
nonprofits have to go to in order to drum
up cash in an increasingly self-regarding
society? There is a razor line between good
intentions and fraud. Lets be open about
the donations we receive and how we spend
that funding. Crisis management within
an NGO that has gone wrong must make a
commitment to integrity, lessons learnt and
actually implementing them publicly. Lets
focus on, big or small, our raison dtre.
If everyone else is hopping on the ol
celebrity charity bandwagon, maybe
its time for you to get off and find a
nonprofit that has a more compelling (and
documented) story to tell about why its
doing what its doing and how.
Dana McNairn works at KOTO, a nonprofit
social enterprise and vocational training
programme for at-risk youth. She can be
contacted at dana.mcnairn@koto.com.au
HCMC
Large portioned coffee
lures customers into the
flagship store of this international caf chain. The
contemporary, yet generic
atmosphere is bolstered by
comfortable seating and a
menu to satisfy any sweet
tooth.
DECIBEL
INTERNATIONAL
79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1,
Tel: (08) 6271 0115
Decibel.vn
Trendy without pretense,
this two-floor, relaxed caf
offers beautiful decor and
unique original events like
live music, film screenings, and art exhibits. Great
prices and food with daily
specials.
GIVRAL CAF
INTERNATIONAL / FRENCH
97 Nguyan Huu Cau, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3844 3295
saigongivral.com
I.D. CAF
CONTEMPORARY CAFE
34D Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 2910
Idcafe.net
Centrally located near Ben
Thanh Market, i.d offers
casual caf dining with a
wide variety of food and
beverages. Where modern
design and a warm ambience meet for coffee.
LAN MIEN DINING CAFE
76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821
2718
The outdoor, well-aired terrace is the centrepiece of
this popular, contemporary
caf. Enjoy live music on
weekends as you sip on reasonably priced Vietnamese
or espresso-based coffee.
LE PETIT CAF
FRENCH
112 Pham Viet Chanh, Q1,
Tel: (08) 6291 2067
MOCKINGBIRD CAFE
4th Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,
Q1, Tel: 0935 293400
facebook.com/mockingbirdcoffee
Sitting atop of a number of
cafe establishments in an old
apartment complex, Mockingbird is just the place for a
romantic time over mojitos,
or good ol caffeine-infused
relaxation.
while spending an afternoon

in this candy-land inspired
cafe.
phere. Subtle lighting and

an extensive wine list make
up the mix.
THINGS CAFE
CAF IF
1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,

Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 6205
facebook.com/thingscafe
Feel the calm and serenity
of this rustic little quiet corner tucked away in an Old
Apartment. The quaint and
relaxing atmosphere sets for
some alone time, or quality
conversations held over a
drink or two.
COBALT
COOKING CLASSES
OVERLAND CLUB
35Bis Huynh Khuong Ninh,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 9734
overlandclub.jp
Sunday 1.30pm to 5pm
The Overland Club organises
pottery classes, VietnameseJapanese cooking classes,
cultural art events and
monthly special activities,
such as the Soba Festival,
pottery painting classes, the
art of decorating paper and
multinational cuisine days.
CRAFTS & FURNITURE

GAYA
CONTEMPORARY FURNISHINGS
1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3925 1495
gayavietnam.com
Set in one of the most attractive post-World War II
buildings in the city, Gaya has
a reputation for chic and sophisticated indoor and outdoor sofas, pod seats, lamps
and tableware, with all products both constructed and
designed locally. You can
find a wide range of mirrors
and lacquerware with bowls,
vases and contemporary
Asian-style boxes as well as
a fantastic selection of linenembroidered bedding in all
colours and designs. Prices
here match the quality of the
products.
EAT
27 GRILL
THE OTHER PERSON CAFE

2nd Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,
Q1, Tel: 0909 670272
facebook.com/TheOtherPersonCafe
Fancy being served up by
maids in costume? Call for
a booking and enjoyed customized service to your liking
VIETNAMESE FRENCH
38 Dang Dung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3846 9853
MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a
French twist, cooked fresh
to order. Dishes include noodle soup, steamed ravioli and
beef stew, stir fries, hot pots
and curries.
GRILL-STYLE RESTAURANT
Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le
Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372
chillsaigon.com
Besides the spectacular
views, the cuisine at 27 Grill
is a real draw, with steaks
and other international
grill-style fare in a refined
yet contemporary atmos-
ROOFTOP RESTOBAR
Floor 30-31, Pullman Saigon
Centre, 148 Tran Hung Dao,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 8686
pullman-saigon-centre.com
A tapas-style contemporary
international menu in an
equally modern chic space,
Cobalt also has panoramic
views over the city thanks to
its 30th-floor location. Has a
focus on wine matching and
tasting. A hotel restaurant
with a difference.
DYNASTY
CANTONESE / PAN-CHINESE
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888
Elegant surroundings, top
quality ingredients, attentive service and comfortable,
roundtable dining makes Dynasty one of the top Chinese
restaurants in town, with a
classic dim sum menu.
LION CITY
SINGAPOREAN
45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 8371
lioncityrestaurant.com
Friendly, authentic fivestorey Singaporean eatery,
plating up the likes of nasi
lemak, mee rebus, and awesome chicken curry, as well
as specialities like frog porridge, chilli crab and fish
head curry.
MAY RESTAURANT
INDOCHINE VIETNAMESE
3/5 Hoang Sa, Q1, Tel: (08)
3910 1277
May-cloud.com
Meaning Cloud, May utilises homemade recipes
and broths developed by the
restaurateurs father, such
as pan-fried duck breast
served with nuoc mam and
ginger, and 1940s style
spring rolls. This is the Saigonese cooking of old set in
an Indochine atmosphere.
MONSOON
PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN
1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: (08)
HCMC
US-STYLE BARBECUE
168 Vo Van Kiet, Q1, Tel: (08)
3914 4500
facebook.com/quanutut
Its a no-brainer, right?
American-style barbecue in
a contemporary Vietnamese,
quan nhau-style setting. Of
course it is, which is why
Quan Ut Ut is constantly
packed with grill-obsessed
diners going for the burgers, meats off the barbecue
and Platinum pale ale served
on tap.
TIEM COM GA HAI NAM
CHINESE / VIETNAMESE BINH

DAN
67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3821 7751

STAR FITNESS GYM
HEALTH CLUB & GYM

Manor Apartments, 91
Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh
Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 0253
FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC

3827 2366
cmi-vietnam.com
This French medical clinic
provides general practice
and a range of specialties
including cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy, ophthalmology, paediatrics and
acupuncture.
Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848
com
Fullservice 24hour
evacuations.
63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08)

6295 8926
catmocspa.com
Aimed exclusively at ladies
and couples only, treatments at this Japanese spa
include facial, body and foot
care, and Japanese-style
haircuts, as well as steamsauna, paraffin and waxing
services.
HAIR BAR
CONTEMPORARY SALON
68 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:
(FREEPHONE) 1800 1108
hairbar.vn
A unique themed hair salon
where stylists use no scissors but styling equipment
only, giving female clients the
opportunity to get their hair
done on the run. Of course,
they have to look fabulous,
too. Fortunately this is one of
Hair Bars specialities. Check
the salon out on Facebook:
facebook.com/hairbarvn.
SPA TROPIC
STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE

99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3925 1990
stamfordskin.com
Stamford Skin Centre offers
a broad range of medical and
aesthetic skin treatments.
Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure
accurate diagnosis and safe
79 PHAN KE BINH, Q1, TEL: (08) 3910

5575
spatropic.com
Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean
Consulate. Spa Tropic has
a long-standing reputation
among expats and visitors
alike for its professional
quality service.
Ni
BAKERIES
BAKEUP ATELIER
BAKERY
Tel: (08) 6281 8392
The baking arm of the wellknown Bakers on Thao Dien,
Voelker. Provide flash frozen breads and patisseries
such as croissants, pain au
chocolat, pain raisins, pizza
dough, pates feuillete and
much more. Serves the hospitality industry in Phu Quoc,
Nha Trang, Phan Thiet and
Ho Chi Minh City.
VOELKER
BAKERY
39 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
6296 0066
voelker-vietnam.com
Frenchrun bakery selling
probably the tastiest range
of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passionfruit tart is
a must try.
BARS & CLUBS

BAAN THAI
SPORTS BAR / PAN-THAI CUISINE

3744 5453
baanthai-anphu.com
A bar and a Thai restaurant
all in one, the focus here is
not just the cuisine but a contemporary bar area and live
sports. Lots of live sports.
The Thai cuisine is cooked
up by no-holds-barred Thai
chefs.
BMV PUB & GRILL

38 Quoc Huong, Q2 Tel:
01299 839314
facebook.com/bmv.pubgrill
With its seven TVs, full-size
Xa
Song H
Ni
nh
Song H
DISTRICT 2
mezzanine area, pool table

and aircon lounge space,
BMV is the perfect place in
District 2 to relax and watch
the sports. Has live music on
Thursday and Friday nights,
and is home to the only German Hofbrau Beer Garden in
Thao Dien.
BUDDHA BAR
RESTOBAR
3345 6345
Buddhabarsaigon.com
Just across the lane from
McSorleys, this pub with an
eccentric European tilt and
some nice, authentic cuisine
draws an older crowd with
darts, pool and weekly poker
tourneys.
MCSORLEYS
IRISH BAR
4 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0126
9026006
Standing in the former home
of Gaudi, McSorelys is full of
surprises, including a beautifully backlit swimming pool,
reggae parties, comedy
nights, and sporting events
projected onto the patio wall.
SAIGON OUTCAST
EVENTS / MAKESHIFT CAF BAR

188/1 Nguyen Van Huong,
Q2, Tel: 0122 4283198
Saigonoutcast.com
Up-cycling and innovative
design form the foundation
for this bar / arts venue /
mini- skate park. Come for
barbeque and reasonably
priced drinks, stick around
for entertaining events and
adorable puppies.
nh
Th
Xa
Mai Ch
No
Trn
n Hong
QUAN UT UT
CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONALE (CMI)
CAT MOC SPA
Ng
N
y
Nguy
TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE
8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3602 2241
Make sure to try the sauted
shrimps with cashew nuts
and crispy fried tofu with
lime wedge, at this popular,
high-quality eatery where all
food is served in traditional
crockery.
& DENTAL
n No
Hu Cnh
Xun Th
y
Xun Th
Xa
n
uy
Th
QUAN BUI
SALONS & SPAS
Binh Thanh
re.com
MEDICAL
Binh Thanh
ng
c H
Qu
3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh, Tel:

(08) 3840 0183
San-art.org
San Art is an independent,
artist-run exhibition space
that offers residency programmes for young artists, lecture series and an
exchange programme that
invites international artists/
curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.
WE LINK
COUNSELLING
64 Ho Hao Hon, Q1, Tel: (08)
6291 2900
contact@welink.vn
Psychological counselling services for individual,
group and family. Diverse
counsellors and therapists,
using Cognitive Behaviour
Therapy, Art Therapy, Systemic Family Therapy. For
adolescents and adults. Vietnamese, English, French
and Spanish spoken.
Thao Dien
i
u
ng
H
y n Vn
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888
Flagship restaurant of The
New World Hotel, serving
lavish buffets all day. Many
cooking stations ranging
from Chinese to Italian, sushi and seafood, to salads,
cold cuts, cheese plates and
desserts.
SAN ART
DISTRICT 2
hQ
Bn
Ngu
PARKVIEW
27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, Tel:

0903 888431
cthomasgallery.com
Located in a quiet corner
of District 1, Craig Thomas
Gallery offers a compelling
mix of up-and-coming and
established local artists. In
operation since 2009, its
founder has been promoting
Vietnamese art for a decade.
(08) 3910 4545
Well-regarded clinic offering
general examinations and
specialising in pediatrics,
digestive diseases, cardiology, womens health and
internal medicine. Offers a
membership programme
and cooperates with most
insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad.
district 2
BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS

& FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GROCERIES, LIQUOR &
WINE / HAIRDRESSERS / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL /
SALONS & SPAS
g
H n
CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY
AMERICAN / FRENCH
2527 Nguyen Dinh Chieu,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7373
steakhouse.com.vn
NYSW is well known for
serving up formidable prime
signature cuts of New York
strip steak, rib eye, double
strip loins and chateaubriands along with sophisticated sides, in a glitzy, Hollywood-esque atmosphere.
VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC
V
n
NEW YORK STEAKHOUSE
GALLERIES
treatment procedures. It
houses excellent equipment
for a variety of procedures.
Ng
uy
n
Steve Chipman, who had a

hand in establishing gyms
at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi
and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness one of
Vietnams largest and bestequipped gyms.
Tr
6290 8899
Traditional pan-Southeast
Asian favourites served in
a visually arresting setting
within a French colonial-era
villa, just minutes from the
backpacker area. Reasonably priced, with healthy
juices and smoothies.
THE FAN CLUB
SPORTS BAR
Ground Floor, The Vista,
628C Hanoi Highway, Q2
dtdentertainment.com/thefanclub
12 quality screens and eight
draught beers, music spun
by DJs, excellent burgers,
quiz nights and barbecues.
All in an attractive, contemporary environment.
CAFES
AGNES CAFE
COFFEE & FLOWER HOUSE

11A-B Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
6281 9772
A cozy and comfortable cafe
in Thao Dien serving excellent fresh coffee from Dalat,
smoothies, juices, pastries
and desserts all day. Offers
a western-fare breakfast,
lunch and dinner menu with
a number of creative TexMex dishes mixed in with
salads and more typical
international cuisine. Now
open until 10pm, the nighttime ambience is relaxed
and intimate.
CAF EVITA
LAID-BACK CAF / RESTAURANT

230A Nguyen Van Huong,
Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3512
3888

LITTLE ANH-EM
BABY & CHILDREN CLOTHING

37 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2,
Tel: 0917 567506
In addition to a varied selection of garments for babies
and children up to 10 years
old, Little Anh-Em stocks
sleeping bags and other accessories.
HCMC
VESPA SHOP
VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS

80 Xuan Thuy, Q2
Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts,
riding gear, Italian helmets,
Respro face masks, DVDs,
books, bags, magazines,
posters and more. Rental
scooters and bikes available.
CRAFTS & FURNITURE

AUSTIN HOME
REPRO FURNITURE / FABRICS

42 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3519 0023
austinhomeinteriors.com
Located in a villa-style
building, this An Phu-based
shop stocks antique repro
furniture. All products are
samples, so its limited and
exclusive with only one or
two pieces of each particular
item. Also has a great range
of imported fabrics up on the
2nd floor and an in-house
sewing room for cushions,
sofas and curtains. Offers
custom-made furniture and
delivery within four weeks.
Home dcor orders are also
available.
TATTOO ARTISTS
With tattoos becoming increasingly popular, over
the past few years there
has been an increase in
the number of tattoo studios around the city.
Customers have the
choice of picking their
own tattoo out of the
many look books on offer
in the studios or bringing
in their own design. Most
of the studios offer bodypiercing services as well.
Pricing depends on size
and style.
LAC VIET TATTOO 608
Dien Bien Phu, Q10

Tel: (08) 3830 4668
106 Pasteur, Q1
Tel: (08) 3821 7068
lacviettattoo.com
SAIGON BODY ART
135 Cong Quynh, Q1

Tel: 0908 443311
saigonbodyart.com
SAIGON INK
26 Tran Hung Dao, Q1

Tel: (08) 3836 1090
tattoovietnam.com
SAIGON TATTOO
31B Nguyen Du, Q1

saigontattoo.net
CHI LAI
HOME FURNISHINGS
175 Ha Noi Highway, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3519 4543
chilai.com
This well-known Vietnamese
furniture brand is a good
choice for most families with
its respected high-quality
designs and competitive
prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach
and Dien Bien Phu, the spacious showroom specialises
in sofas and other furniture
such as table sets, shelves
and kitchen cabinets. There
is a large selection of carpets as well as numerous
choices of curtains and accessories.
FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES

51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2181
8am to 6pm, closed Sundays
Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this
three-storey building is so
packed full of items for sale
that it doesnt seem to have
enough space for all of its
products. The basement
storey carries outdoor
furniture such as bambooimitation and mosaic table
sets, while the second level
stocks all types of indoor
furniture except beds. Accessories are found on the
level above. Special orders
are taken for delivery within
three weeks. Also offers a
rental service.
GAYA
CONTEMPORARY FURNISHINGS
(08) 6281 9680
gayavietnam.com
Set in a typical suburban
villa, Gaya sells chic and
sophisticated indoor and
outdoor
sofas, rugs, lamps, jewellery, scents, bedding, lacquerware and tableware,
all in a showroom-style
environment designed to
give you a sense of how to
construct that perfect interior. Also boasts a wine and
champagne bar that serves
up finger food, both indoors
and out front in the garden
by the pool.
THE FURNITURE HOUSE
HOME FURNISHINGS
81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3519 4640/4643
TATTOO TAM BI
209 Bui Vien, Q1

Tel: 0919 034383
xamphunnghethuat.com
PAN-THAI
3744 5453
baanthai-anphu.com
Subtle lighting and comfortable sofa-like seating at this
An Phu eatery. The menu
has a whole page dedicated
to tom yum soup as well
as firey larb moo and Laotian som tam. Thai cuisine
cooked up by no-holdsbarred Thai chefs.
BOAT HOUSE
40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6790
Live music, mini-festivals and
functions are regular events
at this spacious restobar in
An Phu on the banks of the
Saigon river. The menu offers seasonal dishes, classic mains and sharing plates.
BOOM BOOM BURGER
US-STYLE BURGER JOINT

2 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0909
532378
boomboomburgers.wago.co
A simple and tasty menu
similar to that of the USs InN-Out burger, the tiny Boom
Boom has chosen to focus on
the fundamentals of the perfect burger sweet potato
fries, jalapeno-infused beef
patties and special avocado
blends.
LA CLOSERIE DELISA
FRENCH / GARDEN RESTAURANT

52 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2
A tropical garden ambience
that is at once French yet
contemporary Indochinese
is the home of this table
dhote style restaurant and
bar. Classic French cuisine
at reasonable prices in the
heart of Thao Dien.
LU BU
81 Bui Vien, Q1
Tel: 0908 573339
xamnghethuat.vn
128 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1

Tel: 0938 303838
tattoosaigon.com
BAAN THAI
FEELING TROPIC
SAIGON TATTOO GROUP
TATTOO SAIGON
breakfast, lunch and dinner

menu with a number of creative Tex-Mex dishes mixed in
with salads and more typical
international cuisine. Open
until 10pm.
EAT
AGNES CAF
CAF FARE / TEX-MEX

11AB Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
6281 9772
A cozy and comfortable caf
offering up a western-fare
CONTEMPORARY MEDITERRANEAN
97B Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08)
6281 8371
luburestaurant.com
Drawing inspiration from
the great cuisines of Europe, The Mediterranean
and The Orient, this contemporary, Australian-run
restaurant bathed in white
HCMC
DELIVERY
BEN STYLE
Tel: 0906 912730
www.vietnammm.com/
restaurants-ben-style
Healthy, calorie-counted
sandwich and deli fare
focuses on wholesome,
fresh ingredients, with
breads, cheeses, pickles,
pastas and preserves made
on site daily from scratch. A
well-conceived wine list supplements the excellent fare.
Has petanque on the terrace.
DOMINOS PIZZA
Tel: (08) 3939 3030
www.dominos.vn
Pizzas, wings, desserts
EAT.VN
www.eat.vn
Delivery service website
for local restaurants
AQUAFIT
MEKONG MERCHANT
INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE /

SEAFOOD
23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3744 6478
info@mekongmerchant.com
The rustic looking, bananaleaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the
place in An Phu. Set around
a cobble-stoned courtyard
the cuisine includes gourmet
seafood and pastas. Bakerystyle Bistro out front.
EL GATO NEGRO
Tel: (08) 6660 1577
Californian-style burritos
HUNGRYPANDA.VN
www.hungrypanda.vn
KFC
Tel: (08) 3848 9999
www.kfcvietnam.com.vn
Fried chicken, chicken
burgers, sides
LOTTERIA
Tel: (08) 3910 0000
www.lotteria.vn
Burgers, fried chicken,
sides
PIZZA HUT (PHD)

Tel: (08) 3838 8388
www.pizzahut.vn
Pizzas, wings, pasta, appetizers
SCOOZI
Tel: (08) 3823 5795
www.scoozipizza.com
Pizzas, pasta, salad, antipasti, desserts
WILLY WOOS
Tel: (08) 3941 5433
www.blackcatsaigon.com
US-style chicken and
waffles
VIETNAMMM
www.vietnammm.com
GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE
AQUABIKING
65 Truc Duong, Lang Bao
Chi, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0909
008985
aquafit.vn
CHIARA SQUINZI
Tel: 01278 163620
laholista.com
Experienced health coach
and corporate & school wellness coach. Can help clients
achieve health and weight
goals through an innovative
holistic approach of food,
body and mind. Email chiara@laholista.com for info.
PAN-ITALIAN
(08) 6253 2828
pendolasco.vn
Saigons longest running
Italian restaurant, classic fare is combined with a
special contemporary menu
that brings together a fusion
of European dishes, cooked
up with Italian flair. Excellent Facebook-based delivery service. Go to facebook.
com/Pendolasco2 for full
menu and info.
MADE IN VIETNAM GROCERIES

26B Thao Dien, Q2
100percentvn.com
ANNAM GOURMET MARKET
GROCERY & DELI

41A Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
3744 2630
Annam-gourmet.com
Attractive and spacious
Frenchowned grocery
shop stocking a large range
of foods, organic fruit and
vegetables, imported beers
and wines. Also sells luxury
branded products from the
likes of Fauchon. The deli
upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung
branch serves tasty baguette
rolls in a comfortable lounge
area with free WiFi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured
meats in town. Free delivery
for Districts 1, 2 and 3.
TAMAGO
AUTHENTIC JAPANESE
(08) 3744 4634
tamagoresto@gmail.com
Located on the main drag
in Thao Dien, Tamago has
indoor and out door seating,
a terrace and private rooms.
They have a ladies night on
Tuesdays as well as a Teppanyaki themed night on
Saturday evenings. Have a
second restaurant in Mui Ne.
THE DECK
MODERN ASIAN FUSION

38 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08)
3744 6632
thedecksaigon.com
Set on the banks of Saigon
River across from Thanh
Da Island, this innovative
restaurant serves up modern Asian fusion cuisine in a
Bali-style atmosphere, complemented by great cocktails
and a long wine list.
NUTRIFORT (NTFQ2)
GENERAL FITNESS
34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3744 6672
nutrifort.com
A well-appointed gym also
offering fitness classes and
personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes
include power yoga, pilates,
circuit training, martial arts
and spinning. Also has a restaurant serving caloriecalibrated meals.
CLASSIC FINE FOODS
GROCERIES & IMPORTER

No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street),
Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 7105
classicfinefoods.com
Supplier for the citys five
star hotels, also distributing
brands like San Pellegrino,
Rougie foie gras, Galbani
cheese, fresh poultries,
meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find all
the products at the gourmet
shop on location.
KIDS
www.firstBIKE.com.vn
FirstBIKE balance bikes for
two to five-year-olds eliminate the need for training
wheels or stabilisers, and
support proper balance development.
MEDICAL & DENTAL

3744 2000
com
Fullservice 24hour
evacuations.
SALONS & SPAS

AUTHENTIC SPA
Thao Dien Village, Nguyen
Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 3744
2222
AVEDA HERBAL SPA
Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao

Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671
avedaherbal@gmail.com
VINO WINE SHOP
CYRIL AND YOU SPORTS CENTER
BOXING / FITNESS
49A Xa Lo Ha Noi, Q2. Tel:
0947 77 13 26
Cyril-and-you.com
This sports centre in An Phu,
started by fitness guru Cyril
features the same personalized mentorship Cyrils
clients love. Includes yoga,
boxing and fitness for kids
and adults every day. No
membership fees. Pay for
classes in installments of
10. Also has kids activites
classes. Monday to Friday
every week at 4pm. All activities are safe and run by
Cyril himself.
WINE SHOP
Corner of Thao Dien & Duong
2, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9059
Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines
with a portfolio spanning
old and new world as well
as everything in between.
The outdoor terrace area is
the perfect spot to sample a
new tipple.
HAIRDRESSERS
CONCEPT COIFFURE
(08) 3519 4625
Conceptcoiffure.vn
Open daily from 9am to 8pm
Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated her long-standing flagship
salon Venus Coiffure to a villa
in Thao Dien. A full range of
services is offered including
SHOPPING MALLS
DIAMOND PLAZA
FIRSTBIKE VIETNAM
K1 FITNESS & FIGHT FACTORY
BOXING / MARTIAL ARTS

100 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien,
Q2, Tel: 0909 540030
a dedicated kids salon.
100%
PENDOLASCO
TACO BICH
www.tacobich.com
Homemade Mexican fare
HEALTHY CAF FARE / BAGELS

49 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel. (08)
3602 6385
CHEZ GUIDO
Tel: (08) 3898 3747
www.chezguido.com
Vietnamese, international
fare, pizza, pasta, sandwiches
THE LOOP
QUYNH BEAUTY SALON
104A Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien,

Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 4321
34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08)

3825 7750
9am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Clothing, Accessories,
Electronics, Caf, Food
Court
HUNG VUONG PLAZA

126 Hung Vuong, Q5. Tel:
(08) 2222 0383
9.30am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
PARKSON PLAZA
35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1.
Tel: (08) 3827 7636
9.30am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
SAIGON CENTRE
65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: (08)
3829 4888
9am to 9pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
SAIGON SQUARE
77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia,
Q1
9am to 9pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Electronics
SAIGON TAX
Trading Centre
135 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel:
(08) 3821 3849
9am to 9.30pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Electronics, Souvenirs,
Restaurant
VINCOM CENTER

simply email us on
well try our best
70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1.

Tel: (08) 3936 9999
9am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
ZEN PLAZA
54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel:
(08) 3925 0339
9am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
HCMC
ing renders a great spot to
relax. The mouth-watering
western menu is on the expensive side.
district 3
BARS & CLUBS / CAFES & ICE-CREAM / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES /

CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / HAIRDRESSERS /
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS
ACOUSTIC
LIVE MUSIC
6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, Tel:
(08) 3930 2239
Though only 1km from the
city centre, Acoustic is well
off most foreigners radars.
Come see the Vietnamese
house band play nightly, as
well as performances from
overseas bands and guest
artists.
Th
n
CLOUD 9
LOUNGE BAR & TERRACE

6th & 7th Floor, 2bis Cong
Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel:
0907 502951
CLUB DARTS, DARTS, DARTS
LIVE MUSIC / EVENTS VENUE

224A Pasteur, Q3, Tel: 0948
031323
MUSIC BAR / CAFE

39 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan.Q3.
Tel: (08) 39304075
metallicbar.com
u
S
Ph
Th
Bi
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Du
nh
n
u
i
X
Tr
Th
i
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B
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N
Qu
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Showcases a variety of different types of music anything from rock, pop and rap
to Latino as well as the everlasting songs of Metallica,
Bon Jovi, Scorpions, Santana
and Guns n Roses. Covered
live by well-known, Vietnambased Filipino bands. Music
starts at 8.30pm.
ONTOP BAR
Novotel Saigon, 167 Hai Ba
Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822
4866
Located on the 20th floor
with stunning views of the
city, houses an upscale,
contemporary interior and
an outdoor terrace. A good
venue to chill out in a relaxed and casual, yet hip
ambience.
CAFES & ICE-CREAM

ANS INTERIOR CAF
n D
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Du
n
Kh
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in
h
ng
Nguy
S
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Th
Cn
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L
Thi
WOODSTOCK BAR
Th
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Tr
Na
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Ng
Ca
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L Thi T
BARS & CLUBS
ng
Ph
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n
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Kh
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te
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Ca
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Ha
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Ngh
i
Th
Ba
Th
i
Ha
BAM SKATE SHOP
Tr
n
g
40C Tran Cao Van, Q3, Tel:
SKATEWEAR / STREET
0903 641826
Bamskateshop.com.vn
BOO
STREETWEAR
187A Hai Ba Trung, Q3
boo.vn
CRAFTS
& FURNITURE
i
Kh
nh
Th
n
Th
V
n
n
Bi
C
ch
Ba
Ph
District
10
Ng
h
a
Ho
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District 1
Ha
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Th
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H
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Ti
Tr
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Tr
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Vn
Kh
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Sa
Na
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K
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Th
H o
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Tr
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Th
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V
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Sa
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TEA ROOM
335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3,
Tel: 0169 3583563
operationteavietnam.com
Traverse a wooden bridge
over a bamboo-shaded goldfish pond to enjoy high quality tea, starting at VND35,000,
in this quaint, open-air tearoom. Tea and tea-ware
available for purchase.
V
n
T
Ng
n
uy
n
Th
Binh Thanh
DISTRICT 3
OPERATION: TEAROOM
(08) 3823 3398
BUDS
ICE-CREAM PARLOUR
Tel: (08) 3932 2778
budsicecream.com.vn
HIDEAWAY
INTERNATIONAL
41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3822 4222
Hideawaycafe-saigon.com
Hidden in a colonial building
with an outdoor courwrd,
the ample soft, sofa seat-
ATC FURNITURE
ECO-FRIENDLY FURNITURE
SR1: 268B Nam Ky Khoi
Nghia, Dist.3, HCMC, Tel: (08)
39326455
SR2: 30A Nguyen Huu Canh,
Binh Thanh, HCMC, Tel: (08)
38403946
atc-craft.com
Filled with the scent of nature, is it what you are looking for to spice up the living
space of your home? Come
to ATC FURNITURE, you will
find a wide range of moderndesigned products (sofas,
chairs, beds...) manufactured
from eco-friendly materials
(water hyacinth & rattan). Our
outdoor (poly rattan) wickerfurniture range is suited
to your balcony or garden
space. A hanging (hammock)
chair is irresistible for complete relaxation after a long
day at work.
HCMC
SPORTS
REMIX DECO
INDOOR FURNITURE
222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 4190
remixdeco.com
EAT
AU LAC DO BRAZIL
CRICKET
ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET
CLUB OF SAIGON)
Richard Carrington, Tel:
0909 967 353
richard.carrington@market-edge.asia
eccsaigon.com
ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF

SAIGON)
Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228
770 038
deepteshgill@gmail.com
ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN

SAIGON)
Munish Gupta, Tel: 0986
973 244
gmunish29@yahoo.co.in
PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON

CRICKET CLUB)
Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976
469 090
samie.cashmiri@gmail.
com
SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA

CRICKET CLUB)
Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903
998 824
SACCCRICKET@GMAIL.COM
SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB)
Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988
571 010
suhard.amit@yahoo.com
UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB)

Asif Ali, Tel: 0937 079 034
npasifali@hotmail.com
VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION (VCA)

Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908
200 598
manish@ambrij.com
FOOTBALL
AND
RUGBY
024 or Viet Luu 0909 500

171.
astere@hotmail.fr
SAIGON RAIDERS
Saigonraiders.com
SAIGON RUGBY CLUB

RMIT University, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phong, Q7
saigonrugbyfootballclub@
yahoo.com
SAIGON SAINTS
saigonsaints.com
SPORTS GENERAL
HASH HOUSE HARRIERS
saigonhash.com
isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp
SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS

LEAGUE
thesidl.com
SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE

saigonsoftball.info
SAIGON SHOOTERS NETBALL

CLUB
saigonshootersnetball.
blogspot.com
SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY
BANH CANH / TAY NINH CUISINE

70 Vo Van Tan, Q3
BEEFSTEAK NAM SON
VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE
200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q3; 157 Nam Ky Khoi
Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 3917
Namsonsteak.com
HIGHWAY 4
NORTHERN / PAN-VIETNAMESE
3602 2069
highway4.com
Named after the mountain
highway that skirts the Chinese-Vietnamese border to
the north, Highway 4 serves
up authentic north Vietnamese cuisine. Also does
excellent Son Tinh branded
rice wine.
JOIE DE VIVRE
28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08)

7303 1100
saigonsportsacademy.com
WESTERN / FRENCH
292/10, Cach Mang Thang
Tam, Q3 Tel: (08) 6260 0066
facebook.com/joie.vn
SQUASH
PHO HOA
The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc

Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
2098 ext 176
TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB

436A/33 Ba Thang Hai,
Q10, Tel: 0938 889899
James.chew@vietnamhockey.vn
ULTIMATE FRISBEE
Tel: 0937 683 230

vietnamswans.com
RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van

Linh, Q7
Saigon-ultimate.com
gauloisdesaigon.com
XROCK CLIMBING
OLYMPIQUE SAIGON
7Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3,

Tel: (08) 6278 5794
xrockclimbing.com
Contact Fred on 0919 709
BANH CANH HOANG TY
RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM
AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL
LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON
BRAZILIAN CHURRASCO
3820 7157
aulacdobrazil.com
Open for over a decade, Au
Lac Do Brazil is home to the
city's best Churrasco menu
with a wide variety of meats
from Calabrian sausage
and picanha through to
D-rump steak and smoked
hams. Pioneering the eatas-much-as-you-can theme
in Vietnam, Passadors bring
the meat skewers to your
table, and you, the customer
then choose your accompaniments from the salad bar.
Best washed down with red
wine or a Caipirinha or five.
PHO EATERY
260C Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08)
3829 7943
SHRI
CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN
23rd Floor, Centec Tower,
7274 Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3827 9631
A breezy terrace, indoor
bar and separate dining
room with sweeping views
over central Saigon make
up this enormous, comfortable space. A well-thought
out and romantic venue,
with excellent food.
SUSHI DINING AOI
SUSHI / SASHIMI
53-55 Ba Huyen Thanh
Quan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930
0039
sushidiningaoi.com
Sushi Dining AOI offers fullblown Japanese-style sushi,
sashimi, and other dishes
such as tempura, pork cutlet and cold soba noodles
in a warm and friendly atmosphere. Good value set
lunches. Probably the best
sushi in town.
KIDS CLASSES & SPORTS
TIB
HUE / VIETNAMESE
(08) 3829 7242
Tibrestaurant.com.vn
VIET CHAY
VEGAN
Vinh Nghiem Pagoda, 339
Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3
vietchay.vn

MICHELLE LLOYD YOGA & MASSAGE THERAPY
YOGA
Tel: 0909 648193
michelle@michellelloyd.com
michellelloyd.com
American trained and licensed massage therapist
and certified yoga instructor. Dedicated yoga and
massage spaces in Districts
2 and 3. Private and group
yoga classes. Home visits
available.
SAIGON BELLY DANCE
BELLY DANCE
No 96, Street 2, Cu Xa Do
Thanh, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832
9429
saigonbellydance.com
HAIRDRESSERS
YKC HAIR STUDIO

(08) 3829 2791
MEDICAL & DENTAL

STARLIGHT DENTAL CLINIC

2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 6222
starlightdental.net
Longestablished, modern
clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese
dentists. A favourite of the
foreign residential community due to its modern and
effective treatments allied
with extremely reasonable
prices.
AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC

CHIROPRACTOR
161-161A Hai Ba Trung, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3939 3930
www.acc.vn
A clinic provides world class
Chiropractic, Physiotherapy
and Foot Care. We specialize
in provides effective treatment for back, neck and knee
DANCENTER
53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4490
dancentervn.com
Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop,
funk, belly dancing, salsa and in multi-level classes at
this modern dance studio.
HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING

189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 955780
helenekling.com
INSPIRATO MUSIC CENTER

37 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0932 737700
Inspirato.edu.vn
MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE

94A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7691
Minhnguyenpiano.com
PERFORMING ARTS ACADEMY OF SAIGON

19A Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9679
paa.com.vn
Has a range of music-based programmes teaching kids
in anything from guitar and drums to piano, clarinet and
saxophone. Also provides musical assessment and a
mixture of private and group classes.
PIANO CLASSES
Tel: 01225 636682
morrissokoloff@hotmail.com
SAIGON MOVEMENT
Tel: 0987 027 722
saigonmovement@gmail.com
SAIGON SEAL TEAM

55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0905 098 279
SAIGON PONY CLUB

38, Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0913 733360
Saigonponyclub.com
SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY

28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100
saigonsportsacademy.com
International coaches provide training in soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming for children aged four to
16 years and private lessons for children and adults.
Youth soccer league Sundays from 2pm to 6pm in District 7.
TAE KWON DO
BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 918 149
VINSPACE
6 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0907 729 846
vin-space.com
HCMC
pain, sports injuries, and all
types of foot problems. We
also provide effective treatment for Flat foot syndrome
in children and adult.
INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL

CLINIC
phu my hung
PANORMA FITNESS
L in
V
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Tr
nh
C
Ph
Nguy
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n
n
V
n
T
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Tr
n
L
n
uy
INTENSIVE / FULL-BODY WORKOUTS

206 Tran Van Tra, Q7, Tel:
01654 058401 / 01629
546534
cezsaigon@gmail.com
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simply email us on
well try our best
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(08) 3829 2791
ykcspa.com
Ph
YKC SPA
n
T
Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao

Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671
avedaherbal@gmail.com
H Huy Tp
AVEDA HERBAL SPA
n
B
SALONS & SPAS
g
n
L
Nguyn c C
EASTERN MEDICINE
Tel: (08) 3932 6579
n
uy
Nguyn Vn Linh
GYM, POOL, SQUASH

3rd Floor, Crescent Plaza,
105 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My
Hung, Tel: (08) 5412 1277
The-crescent.com
Overlooking the Crescent
complexs lagoon, this centre offers modern facilities, a
gym with Technogym equipment allowing users to track
their progress. Includes fitness classes, yoga, squash
courts, pool, steam bath and
nutrition bar.
Nguyn
ng Ch
Ng
Linh
CRESCENT WELLNESS CLUB
n
uy
Ng
Nguyn Vn
DISTRICT 7
BAKERIES
LAMOUR
BAKERY & CAFE

Hung Phuoc 2, Le Van Thiem,
Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 4072
lamourbakery.com.vn
SAVOURE
BAKERY
Grand View, SD 4-1, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Q7
SIMRANS
BAKERY
SL15-1 Grand View, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: 0908
828552
simrans.sg
BARS & CLUBS

BANANA BAR
EXPAT BAR
SA8-1 Parkview, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, Q7,
Tel: (08) 5412 3282
A downstairs pool table, an
open, street side terrace and
specials on Tiger draft, this
fun but slightly run-down
joint is a local haunt for many
a resident of Saigon South.
PEACHES
CURRY PUB
S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu
My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410
0999
Known as the Curry Pub,
this pleasant Saigon South
watering hole mixes the beer
MEDICAL & DENTAL

AMERICAN EYE CENTER
PHU MY HUNG
STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE
TRADITIONAL MEDICINE
HOSPITAL
ng
yn
Ch
N gu
INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC

MEDICAL CLINIC

99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1
Tel: (08). 3925 1990 - 0908
453 338
stamfordskin.com
Stamford Skin Centre offers
a broad range of medical and
aesthetic skin treatments.
Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure
accurate diagnosis and safe
treatment procedures. It
houses excellent equipment
for a variety of procedures.
BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE
& YOGA / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL

Tel: (08) 3829 8424
internationalsos.com
Globally renowned provider
of medical assistance and
international healthcare
offers full dental services
in the clinic. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide
high skilled dental service.
Orthodontics is also available.
INTERNATIONAL CLINIC / MEDIVAC

Tel: (08) 3829 8424
internationalsos.com
The worlds leading provider
of medical assistance and
international healthcare offers primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7
emergency care. Specialist
care is available in many
fields.
South sets this joint apart.
with all things curry anything from Goan fish curries

to beef rendangs and more.
A popular local haunt.
RUBY SOHO
CARTOON BAR
S52-1 Sky Garden 2, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5410 3900
mekong-creations.org
MEKONG QUILTS
HAND-MADE QUILTS
S17-1 Sky Garden , Nguyen
Van Linh, Q7, Tel: (08) 6271
7758
mekong-quilts.org
EAT
BOOMARANG BISTRO SAIGON
INTERNATIONAL / GRILL
CR2 3-4, 107 Ton Dat Tien,
Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08)
5413 6592
boomarang.com.vn
Australian themed but Singaporean-owned eatery and
bar on The Crescent with
great terraced seating specializing in huge-portioned
international fare, all set in
a contemporary, spacious
environment.
EL GAUCHO
CRAFTS & FURNITURE

BELLAVITA
HIGH-END FURNITURE
The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton
Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413
7355
bellavitafurniture.com
MEKONG CREATIONS
FAIR TRADE CRAFTS

35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:
(08) 2210 3110; S17 Sky
Garden, Nguyen Van Linh,
Q7, Tel: (08) 6271 7758
PAN-VIETNAMESE
The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat
Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 2210 2304
MING DYNASTY
LAVISH CHINESE / VIETNAMESE

23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5411 5555
NATHALIES
THE TAVERN
EXPAT & SPORTS BAR

R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang
Doan, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410
3900
The first bar established in
Saigon South, great food,
great music and loads of
laughs. Has regular live
music nights, theme nights
and a variety of live sports
events to please everybody.
Big screens and outdoor
seating add to the mix, with
BBQs available for parties
and events.
HOANG YEN
Unit CR1-12, The Crescent,
Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08)
5413 6909
elgaucho.com.vn
A pleasant downtown eatery mixing an Argentinian
steakhouse theme with pork,
chicken, lamb, homemade
spicy sausage, skewers,
burger dishes and everything that can come off a
grill.
THAI / VIETNAMESE
S9 Hung Vuong 3, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5410 0822
nathaliesrestaurant.com
SCOTT AND BINHS
INTERNATIONAL
15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu
My Hung, Q7, Tel: 0948
901465
bizuhotel.com/main/pages/
scottbinhs.php
Serving creative, all homemade comfort food, this
restaurant boasts a full bar,
ice-cold beer and an international wine list to complement meals. Has a focus
on the creative use of local
ingredients.
VIVA TAPAS BAR & GRILL
GRILL & BAR/ TAPAS

R4-28 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu
My Hung, Q7
facebook.com/VIVATapasBar.pmh
As well as classical Andalusian tapas, VIVA serves up a
selection of original but flavourful dishes for those who
dare to try. A Mediterranean-themed interior and a desire to provide something not
presently available in Saigon
5th Floor, Crescent Plaza,

105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7
Tel: 5413 6758 / 5413 6759
www.americaneyecentervn.
com
American Eye Center is located in the heart of Phu My
Hung, providing eye care
services to Adults and Children by an American Boardcertified ophthalmologist
with 17 years of experience.
The American-standard
facility is equipped with
state of the art equipments
for the early detection and
treatment of important eye
diseases from Lasik and cataract surgeries to presbyopia, glaucoma and diabetic
eye disease treatments.
Cosmetic procedures such
as eyelid surgery and Botox
injections are also available.
FV HOSPITAL
6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5411 3333
Emergency: (08) 5411 3500
fvhospital.com
International hospital
whose standard of health
care matches that found
anywhere, with 19 fulltime
French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing
expertise in 30 medical and
surgical areas, especially
maternity care.
HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER
EASTERN MEDICINE
432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7,
Tel: 0906 684 969
Du Thuyn
Bn lm g vo dp Nm Mi ? Mt cu hi hng nm trong mi dp ny.

Nick Ross may mn tri qua ngy ngoi khi b bin Malaysia
y th tham gia chuyn i trn du

thuyn 2,000 hnh khch ca , tr
s Singapore vi nhn vin l ngi
Chu . y chnh xc l hnh thc m
cng ty Costa ang p dng vi chic du thuyn
Costa Victoria ca mnh, v vi hnh thc nh
th, h ang hot ng kinh doanh trong mt
th trng hon ton mi mt th trng ln
nht th gii.
Du lch bng du thuyn khng mi m trong
ng Nam . Trong nhiu thp k, nhng chic
thuyn c ln trn khp a cu thng t tp
ti cc cng bin ln nht ca khu vc. Nhng
iu mi l l nhm hnh khch. Trc y,
hnh khch hu ht ch l nhng ngi Chu
u, Bc M v c ln tui lm cho cc cng
bin khu vc ny ng c. Nhng vi kh nng
chu chi tiu hn, ngi Chu gi y cng

tham gia th tiu khin ny. Trong chuyn tu
ti i vo dp Nm Mi va ri, s lng hnh
khch hu ht l ngi Chu . Nhng th v
hn l tui ca nhm hnh khch ny. Khng
ch c ngi ln tui. y mi ngi u i
ngh cng vi gia nh.
Chuyn i ca ti l chuyn i ca bo ch
tt c chng ti gm 19 ngi t Vit Nam.
Chng ti cng i cng gia nh mnh. Tha
thun rt n gin. Chng ti mua v bay ti
Singapore, ni m chng ti s c thuyn n
cng nh tr v. Tt c cn li l Costa s lo.
Khng hn l nh th tt c mi th c
sp xp li vi nhau mt cch nhanh chng n
ni c mt sai st nh trong t chc. Nhng
c rt nhiu im ni bt trong chuyn i ca
chng ti nh Phuket, Langkawi v Penang trc

khi quay tr v Singapore, chuyn i nm ngy
trn chic tu bnh thng nhng sang trng 18
tui ny l mt chuyn i ng nh. Thm ch h
thng m thanh c pht i pht li bi Jingle Bells
v Rudolf the Red-Nosed Reindeer, th hin thnh
tm hng v Ging Sinh ca Costa, ci thnh
tm y kinh nghim. Ti t hi liu h c i
nhc sau m giao tha. V h khng thay i.
Snapshots
Mt trong nhng k nim p nht l ngy

chng ti n Phuket chng ti cp bn bi
bin Patong. Ti trng i tm ting ng h
trn t lin s gip ti i din vi nhng th
ti khng thch khi du lch ti Thi Lan. Vng,
n gip.
Patong l bn sao ca lng Kuta Bali. Cng

tng hai t nc khc nhau ngoi tr
du khch n o y l nhng ngi Nga.
Nhng vi mt t thi gian khm ph, c mt
cht cm gic phiu lu khi chng ti i do
quanh th trn, v khi quan st mi ngi trn
bin. Ni ny ph hp cho chuyn tham quan
mt ngy.
Sng hm sau, chng ti thc dy khi mt tri
soi r vng o Langkawi. l ngy c thi
tit p nht trong chuyn i ca chng ti. Vi
bu tri trong xanh trn cao, vng t nhit i
ny cng cnh bin ca n khc xa trn tm bu
thip. So vi thi tit u m ma nhiu trong ngy
u tin, chuyn i gi y tr nn sng ng.
Vo ngy u nm, chng ti n
Georgetown, Penang. Ch cn vi thnh ph
trong khu vc ng Nam c th ph hp vi

kin trc thuc a c, nn vn ha a dng v
thc phm ng ph ca chnh n. Quay tr
li y ln u tin sau 15 nm, ti rt ngc
nhin khi pht hin mnh ang i i li li 20km
xung quanh khu vc trung tm ca thnh ph.
Sau khi tiu th nhiu thc n trn tu, ti cn
tp th dc.
Giy pht ng quang, mc d, l m trc
m giao tha. Khi bn thc s khng bit
nhng ngi bn ang cng l ai, m giao
tha ny c th tr thnh dp hon ho kt
bn v ph v cc ro cn; chng ti quy ph
tng bng. Ngay c nhng a tr cng tham
gia vi chng ti, i nc ngt ly bia trong cc
tr chi ngu hng ca chng.
c dn dt bi i ng nhn vin gii tr
ca Costa, con tu n tung khi giao tha lc

kim ng h ch s 12. Tt c mi ngi t
Philippines, Indonesia, Trung Quc, Nht Bn,
, Vit Nam cng ha mnh vo bi ht v
khiu v. m ly bn b, c vi ngi l, ung
champagne, nhy ma, ca ht , ri nhiu ci
m hn, ru sm banh nhiu hn. Trong mt
khonh khc ngn, tt c ro cn c t
sang mt bn.
N tht tuyt vi.
bit thm chi tit v cc chuyn i ca
Costa Victoria, xin gh costacruisesasia.com.
Hin ti cng ty t chc chuyn tu 4 ngy t
Thng Hi trong thng 3. Chuyn tu ny s b
neo ti Nht Bn v Hn Quc. Gi v phng
bao gm ba ba n l US$579 (12.2 triu) cho
mt ngi.
Cu Chuyn ca Bia Hi
c coi l ung c a chung bc nht Vit Nam,
bia hi c khi ngun t thi k chin tranh chng M.
Hoa L gp g nh bo Nguyn Ngc Tin, tc gi ca
cun sch i Ngang H Ni tm hiu v ung ni
ting ny ca Vit Nam. nh bi Glen Riley.
i n th Vit Nam tc l ni ti xe
my, nhng ta nh cao tng mng dnh,
n trn ng ph, v tt nhin l
c c bia hi. L mt loi bia khng qua
thanh trng v thm cht bo qun, c bn trc
tip t thng ln, bia hi c a chung bi rt
nhiu ngi, t tng lp tr thc ti nhng ngi
bn hng trn ng ph.
Tuy vy, ngi ta thng ni bia hi l ung
ca ngi H Ni. C l mt phn bi y l ni
u tin loi ung c cn ny xut hin, v mt
phn khc bi n c bit ph bin y. Ta c th
bt gp qun bia hi mi ngc ngch th .
Thi tr, nh bo Nguyn Ngc Tin thng lui
ti cc qun bia hi giao lu vi bn b mnh.
Anh c mt nim yu mn vi loi ung ny
vi nhng gi tr vn ha ca n v dnh mt
chng c bit vit v bia v bia hi trong cun
sch i Ngang H Ni.
T Ru ti Bia hi
Vn ha ung bia Vit Nam bt ngun t nhng

nm cui th k 19, lc nh my bia u tin
c ngi Php xy dng vi tn gi Hommel
tin thn ca Nh my Bia H Ni hin nay
(Habeco). Trong mt thi gian di, nh my
ph Hong Hoa Thm ny l ni duy nht cung
cp bia cho H Ni tuy nhin khch hng ch
yu thi k ny ca nh my l nhng s quan
ngi Php.
Trc khi c bia, ngi Vit Nam ch yu ung
ru. Ti khi go tr nn khan him, ngi ta sn
xut ru t sn khoai. Vo khong ln thi gian
trong th k 20, rt t ngi bn x ung bia. Ngi
ta coi l mt loi ung ng ng, c ngi
cn ni n c v g hi khai.
Tuy vy, mi vic thay i vo nhng nm u
thp k 60. Nh s hc khut o Hng c ln
ni v thi k ny nh sau: Trong thi khng
chin chng M, m bo sn lng go cho
ngi dn, ngi ta cm dng go nu ru v
khng th lng ph thc phm vo mt loi
ung c cn nh th.
Nhng vic cm nu ru dn ti s thnh hnh
ca bia, mt loi ung du nhp t phng ty.
C l ngi ta lun cn mt loi ung c men
trong cuc sng.
Nhng nm , Habeco bt u sn xut nhng
loi bia c cht lng cao v a sn phm ca h
vo tiu th min Nam. Ch tch H Ch Minh
trong mt ln ti thm nh my khuyn khch

u t sn xut bia cho xut khu.
y cng l giai on bia hi ra i, vi gi
thnh r - trc tin phc v nhu cu ca nhng
ngi thuc tng lp bnh dn.
L do cho s xut hin ca bia hi cng n
gin thi, anh Tin ni. Trong thi chin, ngi
ta thiu thn nguyn liu sn xut v chai thy
tinh. Cc im bn bia th H Ni, gn ngay nh
my. Ngi ta ngh bia chai va mt v chai, va
thm gi thnh nn ngi ta lm ra bia hi.
Khi ng vo bom, bia hi vn tip tc ln
men trong qu trnh vn chuyn ti cc qun trong
thnh ph. Ngi dn y cng rt nhanh chng
b chinh phc bi loi ung ny.
Anh Tin k thi gian , bia hi sn xut ti cc
nh my c mi thm nh, rt d chu. Bia cng c
nhiu bt trng, khi ung n git cui cng, bt
vn cn bm vo thnh cc.
Chuyn xp hng, nhng chic cc vi v c

u s t
Vo nhng nm 60, phn ln nhng ngi ung

bia u la tui trung nin thanh nin tr tui
hn thng khng c tin ung. Trc nhng
ca hng mu dch thi bao cp, nhng ngi
mun mua bia thng phi xp thnh hng di.
Ngi ta phi ht khn c v c khi mt c ting
ng h c th mua c mt cc bia. Thnh
thong, ngi ta nghe thy ging nhng c bn
sang sng mng ngi mua bia: Ln xn v mt
trt t l ti khng bn u nh!
Cc qun bia C Tn (phng Trng Tin hin
nay), Nguyn Biu, Cu Giy, Thy T, M, Vng,
Hng Bi,... bao gi cng ng khch. Khi nhu
cu ung bia hi nhiu ln, nhiu qun cn yu
cu khch hng mua km vi cc dng khc, v
cng v thm bia, ngi ta lun chp nhn. Anh
Tin k, nhng nm 70, mt s qun kt hp vi
ca hng bch ha, bn bia km vi nhng th
hng tn . C ni bn bia hi km lc rang, c ni
li bn km rau mung, v c chi cho tr con
na.
Trong cun sch ca mnh, anh Tin vit:
chuyn l thng 10-1974, bch ha Qun Thnh
bn u s t cho tr em vui chi Trung thu nhng
bn khng ht kt hp vi bia Nguyn Biu tiu
th nt ch s t . Mua bn cc km mt u s
t loi nh, su cc km u s t loi ln Hm
qun bia ging nh c s sn xut chi, cht
nch u s t.
Khi , cc mn nhm vi bia cng khng a
dng nh by gi, nhng cng rt c sc. No l
lc rang, nm, u ph chm mm tm, v c c
luc na tt c u l nhng mn nhm c a
chung. Mt s mn c bn ngay trong qun,
nhng thng khng ngon bng nhng b bn trn

va h hay hng rong gn .
Trong thi gian ny, mn tht ch cng bt u
tr nn ph bin cc qun bia hi. Anh Tin k,
thi anh i hc thng phi bt xe but tuyn t
Nhn ra, c bui sng l gp nhng ngi bun
tht ch trn xe.
H tri tht ch t u xe ti cui xe. Khi xe
but dng bn trn ph Phan Chu Trinh, h ta
ra, ly xe p gi sn v mang tht ch i
giao khp ni trong thnh ph, c cc qun bia
hi na, anh Tin k.
Cu chuyn v nhng chic cc vi ung
bia hi cng kh th v. u tin, ngi ta dng
nhng chic cc thy tinh to 500ml sn si
v c ti ch t nhng mnh thy tinh v.
Nhng chic cc ny c mu trng xanh, lp
thy tinh bn trong vn cn c bt kh. thi k
chin tranh khi vic sn xut ra cc thy tinh gp
kh khn, ngi ta chuyn sang dng cc bng
gm, s. Nhng chng dy v nng qu, gy
kh khn cho nhng ngi bng b, cng chnh
v th ngi ta bt u gi chng l cc vi,
ch s nng n ca chng. n u nhng nm
70, nhng chic cc thy tinh c s dng li,
nhng vi th tch nh hn, khong 300ml. T
cc vi, tuy th, vn c s dng ch nhng
chic cc dng ung bia hi ny.
Ngy nay ti mt s nh hng nh Backyard Bia
Hi (mt qun kh ni ting trn ng Qung
Khnh, qun Ty H) cng s dng cc vi phc
v bia hi nh mt s gi nh th v v khong
thi gian bao cp Vit Nam.
Bia hi ngy nay
Mc d cc qun bia hi xut hin khp ni trn

Vit Nam ngy nay, n vn c coi l mt ung
c bit ca H Ni. Cc qun bia c khp cc
khu ph, ngi tr tui th thng t tp khu vc
ph c va ung, va gp g bn b v ngm
ngi qua li.
By gi anh Tin khng cn thi quen i ung
bia hi nh trc kia na. Anh cho rng bia hi
mt i hng v thu u tin ca n bi v nhiu
qun by gi trn n vi cc loi bia cht lng
thp hay c nhng loi bia c c lm th cng
bi cc h gia nh.
Bia by gi u cng nh nhau, anh ni. N
khng c v thm nh ngy trc. Ch c v lnh v
mt cht men. Th thi.
i vi anh, loi bia hi ngon nht thuc v
qu kh. Khi ngi ta ung cng vn minh hn,
chm ri, khng n o v rt t khi thy c ngi
say.
Thi cng lm g c nhiu bia ung, ly
u ra say, anh ni.
31
CHO TI, THNG 3
MANZI ART KU GI
Cc ngh s tr Vit Nam, Manzi cn cc bn!

Mt trong nhng khng gian ngh thut u
tin ca H Ni ang tm kim cc tng trin
lm c nhn hay theo nhm, t nay n ht
31/3. Khng gii hn khng a cc tng
c trin lm trc y, tui khng qu 40,
bn nn bit iu ny trc l khng c nhm
chn. L ni c lp iu hnh ngh thut, Manzi
khuyn khch s a dng, sng to v hp tc
sng to trong ngh thut v vn ha.
ng vin trng tuyn s c c hi lm vic
vi i ng Manzi pht trin hn na v c
nhn tin thng cho cc tc phm ngh thut
khi trin lm, s din ra trong nm nay ti Manzi.
Manzi cng s cung cp a im t chc trin
lm cho cc ng vin thnh cng, cc k hoch
qung b v tin sn xut.
bit chi tit hoc np tc phm, xin lin h
manzihanoi@gmail.com, hoc gh 14 Phan Huy
ch, Ba nh , H Ni
10-11
THNG 2
MA NG CA L
Ca s kim nhc s, L Ct Trng L, s biu din

nhng ca khc ma ng ca mnh ti Manzi vo
ngy 10 v 11 thng 2, vi phn m ca ngh s v
cm Thanh T v b t n dy.
L ngh s hng u ca m nhc dn gian
ng i Vit Nam, L kt hp nh hng
phng Ty vi m nhc truyn thng Vit Nam.
Vi m nhc v li bi ht c bit, nng nhc
s Nng l ha thn hin i ca Trnh Cng
Sn, ngi thng gi l Bob Dylan ca Vit
Nam.
t ch, xin gi ng dy nng ca Manzi
theo s 0947 935042 trc ngy 5/2 hoc email v
manzihanoi@gmail.com. Manzi Art Space nm ti
14 Phan Huy ch, Ba nh , H Ni
11 TH T, THNG 2
NT V T SI GN XA
L' usine ang i t chc mt trin lm c

nhn ca ngh s a phng L Hng
Trng, mt b su tp gm 20 hnh v v
mu nc t cun sch sp ti ca anh Si
Gn Xa. Nhng bc v l k nim ca
Si Hn hn lon v quyn r, hoi nim
cc a im v hnh nh c b lng qun
. Ngi tham quan s c c bn sao
cun sch ca anh, nh du bui ra mt
u tin.
Tic m mn cho trin lm Si Gn
Xa ca L Hng Trng s c t chc
ti L' usine ng Khi, 151/1 ng Khi,
Q1, t 18:00 n 21:00. xem thng tin
cc s kin khc vi, xin gh saigonsaigon.
weebly.com
The final say

THE FINAL SAY
NATIONAL
The Inside Story

of the Guerrilla War
Chapter 5: Of Arsenals and Hospitals
For the next 11 issues, Word is presenting excerpts from Wilfred Burchetts seminal
account of the American War. A close friend of Ho Chi Minh, Burchett was the only
westerner to be embedded with the Viet Cong frontlines in the early 1960s.
This work was written in 1964
A Jungle Arms Factory

We started up in 1960 and our only raw
materials were bits of soap iron and some
powder from unexploded bombs. At that
time, we had only one department; now
we have 10. Then we thought we were
performing miracles to produce 15 grenades
a month; now we produce 5,000.
He was a tall, gaunt and balding
Vietnamese; around me workers in aprons
and with white masks over their faces were
ramming powder into anti-personnel mines;
working spiral presses that jammed wooden
handles neatly into hand grenades; grinding
in queer, canoe-shaped receptacles caked in
gunpowder from bombs into a fine variety
for grenades, mixing and sifting powder as
if we were in a bakery instead of a jungle
arsenal. A mademoiselle was buzzing around
overhead. If she could only have seen what
I was looking at! But the jungle is kind to its
friends.
At first we had no skilled workers,
continued my informant, the director of the
arsenal. But we trained peasants, some
of whom can now be regarded as skilled
workers. Gradually we developed and
expanded until now we can to a certain
extent meet the Fronts requirements in
this region. In the process of production,
we also trained cadres who now head the
various departments. Imbued with the spirit
of struggle against the enemy, the morale
of workers and cadres is higher every day.
Some specialised workers have come from
Saigon to help us.
He handed me a couple of aluminium
beer mugs, inscribed with my name and
that of my host organisation, the Quartermaster Generals Department of the
Liberation Army. They are made from
rocket cylinders, he said. We have no
primary raw materials, so we gather all the
soap available from the enemy: plane parts,
bits of bombs and rockets the beer mug
handles are from napalm bomb canisters
wrecked trucks, bridge railings, bits of
railway track, any metal we can get hold of.
The population do their best for us look
at these brass incense burners an old woman
brought us the other day.
I stopped to watch a welder in a masked,
steel helmet, welding fins on to rifle
grenades and followed the acetylene gas
line to the parent machine. It was marked:
Portaweld-Onan, Minneapolis, and also
bore the clasped hands of AmericanVietnamese friendship. Yes, the director
said, we cannot complain about the quality
of US machinery. If they had come to our
country only with machines like these
instead of their planes and tanks, it would
have been better for us all.
Every worker had his own weapon
alongside him at his workbench. They were
keen, smiling young chaps, obviously and
justifiably proud of their productions. It
was pleasant again to hear the humming of

machinery; to hear mechanical noises that
were not from the adversarys planes or
gunboats. One of the impressive sights was
a long line of Saigon watchmakers, lenses
sewed into their eyes, heads bent low over
delicate springs and coils of copper, and fine
magnetised wire for various delayed action
fuses. Later I was to hear a Voice of America
transcript of a McNamara press conference
in which the US Defense Secretary cited as
absolute proof of intervention from North
Vietnam, the appearance in South Vietnam
of more sophisticated types of mines,
including some naval mines and others with
delayed action fuses. I saw these more
sophisticated types of weapons in serial
production in the jungle arsenal.
The laboratories and the building housing
the chemical processes for explosives
manufacture were spotlessly clean, the
bamboo huts lined with US parachute nylon.
In one such hut, girls with delicate balances
were weighing the miniscule quantity of
explosives necessary for various types of
detonator caps and one 15-year-old lad was
in charge of an improvised machine for
fitting the detonator caps into the cartridges.

The director assured me there had not been a
single accident at the plant.
The increase from 15 to 5,000 grenades a
month since 1960 is typical of a very rapid
increase in all departments, every year, the
director said, as I took my leave. And we
will continue to expand our activities at this
tempo.
Field Hospitals
The rapid expansion of arms production was
typical of the rapid expansion in every field
of the Fronts war effort. One of the most
remarkable results was in the medical field.
A typical frontline hospital which I
visited did not look very different from an
ordinary hamlet at first the same bamboo
huts each consisting of barely more than a
steep, overhanging palm roof supported
by poles and a waist-high, pleated bamboo
outer wall, designed to give maximum
shade and air. In fact, each hut was a ward,
and one slightly bigger and more enclosed
than the others was the operating theatre.
Ceilings of the wards, and ceilings and walls
of the operating rooms, dispensary and
We have no primary raw materials, so we

gather [everything] available from the enemy:
plane parts, bits of bombs and rockets,
wrecked trucks, bridge railings, bits of railway
track, any metal we can get hold of
We cannot complain about the quality of US machinery. If they had

come to our country only with machines like these instead of
their planes and tanks, it would have been better for us all
outpatients clinic, were lined with white
parachute nylon.
In the first ward I visited there were
three patients. One was a rubber plantation
worker who had been shot in the neck by
Saigon troops while he was making his
normal morning rounds collecting latex
from the rubber trees. The bullet had been
removed and he was doing fine. Another
was a middle-aged woman who had been
wounded in the stomach with a grenade
burst. Sections of intestine and part of her
liver had to be removed and she was still
very weak.
The third, a young guerilla lad, had lost
one hand and part of another in a tragic
accident with a grenade only two days
previously. In a nightmare he had imagined
his hamlet was under attack and reaching
for his grenade pulled out the pin and
was just about to throw it when he woke
up. Realising he would probably kill his
comrades if he threw it, he held on to it,
plunging his hands under some bags of rice
alongside his bed. By a miracle, only his
hands suffered. One and part of the other

had to be amputated. He was still suffering
from shock.
This was a real frontline area; alongside
each building were air-raid shelters,
including those wide enough to take
stretcher cases. It was an area subject to
almost daily bombings, nightly shellings and
frequent mopping up raids.
During 1963, said Dr. Tran, the surgeon
in charge, we handled 247 surgical cases.
They included stomach, head, chest and
limb surgery; the results were 98 percent
positive. Apart from Dr. Tran there were
four medical assistants, with two years
medical college training, and nine nursing
sisters. The hospital had been set up in late
1960.
At that time, reminisced Dr. Tran, a
short, energetic man with a thick stubble of
hair and sensitive, square-tipped fingers,
there were only three nursing sisters in
this whole district, no other medical worker.
Now in the district we have 13 medical
assistants, 105 nursing sisters, 120 nurses,
13 midwives and 52 assistant midwives.

The Front tries to have at least one sister
for each hamlet. I visited a medical school
attached to his hospital where 36 nurses and
15 midwife trainees were being given sixmonth accelerated training courses.
Later I was to visit a much larger unit,
referred to by Dr. Ky, who was in charge, as
a regimental hospital. The buildings were
much larger, but still of pleated bamboo
walls and palm leaf roofs. It had also
been set up in 1960 but was enlarged and
modernised in 1962, when Dr. Ky took over.
I asked about equipment and medical
supplies: Of course, we are short of some
things, he said. But on the surgical side,
things have improved a lot since our lads
captured a portable X-Ray unit. (I inspected
it later, it was made by Picker of Cleveland,
Ohio.)
We use plenty of penicillin and
streptomycin, despite the enemys blockade
of medical supplies, said Dr. Ky, but we
also use a lot of oriental medicine which
we can produce from local products. Our
snake-bite antidote, for instance, is more

effective than any western one.
There is an especially deadly snake in many
parts of South Vietnam, similar to the Australian
death adder; not more than a foot long, it jumps
at its victims. Within three minutes one is
paralysed and in two hours dead. The Liberation
Front chemists have developed an antidote in
tablet form, and every guerilla carries two as
part of standard equipment. I always slept with
one of these in a handy position for immediate
application and was warned never to stray far
from my hammock at night and constantly to use
a flashlight
Among substitutes for western medicines,
Dr. Ky cited hemoglobin serum in injectable
form, obtained from buffalo and pigs; a
substance from tiger bones which acted as
a powerful stimulant in cases of prolonged
weakness; an extract from the placenta of
new-born buffalo calves, good for malaria
and rheumatism.
I asked what was the average time in
his area for medical treatment during a
military operation. Any casualty, replied
Dr. Ky, can count on first-aid treatment

at a company medical station within 30
minutes of being wounded; within one
hour he receives first surgical attention
at battalion level, and within two hours
fundamental surgery at regimental level.
Only exceptionally serious cases have to be
sent back to the main hospital; normally the
frontline hospitals can handle everything
that comes their way. Dr. Ky estimated that
once the wounded got into the hands of the
medical staff, over 90 percent are saved.
He was especially proud of two brain
surgery cases and insisted on my seeing
them. Both had had bullets removed
from the brain; both had been completely
paralysed in half their body. Now, the first
one operated on is walking around and
talking normally, the other one is able to
move and Dr. Ky was certain that he would
also be walking soon.
Such results are obviously possible only
with a very high standard of surgery and
post-operational care, difficult to associate
with the primitive appearance of the
hospital buildings. The hospital had its

own pharmaceutical section where various
medicines were being prepared in liquid, pill
and in edible forms. Dr. Ky explained that
part of the medicines came from a central
pharmaceutical department which was run
by the Committee for Public Health.
Later, I was able to meet Dr. Ho Thu, a
French-trained pharmaceutical chemist,
who was a member of the Liberation Fronts
Central Committee a modest, greying
scientist who, other Presidium members
assured me, had performed miracles in
producing medical supplies. He astonished
me by saying that the Front now produces 70
percent of its own medical requirements.
This had been possible, he said,
because we made a careful study of
traditional oriental medicine and based
ourselves on the great wealth of our forest
products. In some fields we have surprised
ourselves. For instance, we have been able
to solve the question of flesh and bone
gangrene. When I asked how, he smiled
and said: We are keeping this a secret,
Medical attention is free in the liberated zones and it was

interesting to learn that many people come from the
Saigon-controlled areas, including from Saigon itself,
come to have treatment in the liberated areas
because we consider this a source of national
wealth for the future. I can only say that
it is based on a forest product. It was only
when we made a proper inventory of local
vegetable, animal and forest products and
checked these off against ancient oriental
medical manuals, that we realised how rich
we were.
Dr. Thu said they maintained big stocks of
serums and vaccines and always had enough
on hand to halt any normal epidemics of
typhus, smallpox, cholera, etc. Thanks to
this, and speedy action, they had halted a
recent cholera epidemic that had started in
Saigon, and which the authorities there had
confidently hoped would spread into the
liberated zones.
As for malaria, continued Dr. Thu, this
has always been a major problem in the
South Vietnam countryside. But we have
waged a big campaign against it and the
percentage is down enormously. It is down
to five percent in even former seriously
infested regions and we hope to reduce this

still further to eradicate it completely,
in fact by using our local resources and
the full cooperation we get from the local
population.
Medical attention is free in the liberated
zones and it was interesting to learn, and
to confirm on several occasions, that many
people come from the Saigon-controlled
areas, including from Saigon itself, to have
treatment in the liberated areas. This was
especially striking during the 1964 cholera
epidemic in Saigon when tens of thousands
of people came to get their anti-cholera
injections in the liberated zones.
This is not just because our service is
free, Dr. Thu explained. People appreciate
the professionally responsible attitude and
the devotion of our medical cadres who are
trained to serve the people. The main line in
the liberated zones, as far as public health
is concerned, is to concentrate on social
hygiene and preventive medicine, in raising
living standards and introducing modem

notions of hygiene to the peasantry.
Considering the small lapse of time and
great difficulties, concluded Dr. Ho Thu,
very rapid progress has been made in the
development of the pharmaceutical industry,
in the training of medical cadres and the
setting up of hospital and public health
facilities.
Wilfred Burchett was an Australian reporter
often described at the rebel journalist for his
stories about the American War from the other
side. After years of being at odds with the
Australian government, last year the Melbourne
Press Club inducted him into their Hall of Fame.
Burchett was also the journalist who broke the
scoop of the 20th century the devastation
caused by dropping nuclear bombs on Hiroshima
and Nagasaki.
Special thanks to George Burchett for allowing
us to republish this work. Please note that some
place names in this piece have been changed to
reflect their modern-day spelling
The final say
THE FINAL SAY
NATIONAL
Falling Off the Wagon

Its a common New Years resolution go a month or so without drinking.
Jon Aspin took on the challenge... sort of
ts easy giving up beer for a month. Im

doing it right now.
But no one serious just gives up beer
for a month. Its a cop out, because you
can still get blackout drunk without it. In fact
beer is the least efficient tool when it comes
to this, too many carbs taking up space for
the stuff that gets the job done properly
the booze. At best it deserves credit for being
a good gateway. But no, serious people dont
give up beer, they give up alcohol entirely.
Sometimes it works out your trial
separation is a success. When its over you
gain a newfound respect for the relationship,
and promise not to hurt each other again.
You declare your love openly once more
and consume an entire bottle of expensive
Australian red wine. Its not abusive if it
costs a lot of money right?
At other times, you fail miserably. You
even use the term failed miserably when
you tell the story of your latest go at
abstinence, then giggle at all the fun you had
while not being particularly sober.
This month, Ive been attempting to
do exactly that, remain sober, and at the
same time write this column. Id agreed
to write it during my annual comedown
from Christmas an F&B bender of the
highest order so Ive been seeking some
inspiration without the assistance of booze.
It eventually came from my colleagues
who, for this issues cover story about beer,
were arranging cool stuff like blind tastings
in convenience stores and photo shoots with
promo girls.
However, their serious journalistic
approach to the topic left me feeling
intellectually dwarfed. How was I going to
match up to girls in tight uniforms? Where
would I find similar pearls theyd be getting
from beer men in Circle K? I had to come
up with something special. Thats when I
decided to give up drinking.
Temptation
I knew it wouldnt be easy in this city a
place where youre never more than 50
metres from the next opportunity to

get smashed. Almost immediately I
was offered free beer at a restaurant I
sometimes go to. Not wanting to cause
offence to my host, I quickly reassigned
the gift to the table of tourists next to me.
It was clear that I needed to set up some
safety nets to keep me on task. Thats
when I started telling people.
The reactions I received varied, a
mixture of who cares, surprise and
disbelief. Youre doing what? Why?
they asked, sipping drinks in the bars
I still went to. (And a note on this;
awkwardly ordering three Sprites and
seven ice teas in bars, as your drinking
buddies conversations get louder
and stupider, is a pretty exhausting
experience.) I even stayed up all night
dancing at T&R, completely and utterly
straight.
Others were congratulatory, some laughed
out loud, a couple questioned my sexuality.
One guy went even further, pouring vodka
into an orange juice I had, just so he could
ruin my streak. What a champ.
VIP = Very Intoxicated Person

Despite temptation and there have
been many in a month including Australia
Day and the usual number of weekends
I started off strong. A massive four
days in and I wasnt missing the drink at
all. Go me.
After a week I felt a noticeable
difference. No instant six-pack yet, but my
head was clear and I felt more productive
than ever. With my confidence soaring, I
believed I could do it, but thats when my
sober world came crashing down.
How did it happen? In hindsight,
accepting a VIP invite to a Vietnamese
nightclub wasnt the smartest thing to do.
My colleague had invited me and I was
determined to keep on living, despite my
crippling condition. Arriving at the club
I thought I could do it sober, but as soon
as we entered I knew that my streak was
done. There was no way I was not going

to have a drink in this place.
Apart from being a luminous screaming
baby of a nightclub, the same sense of
not wanting to offend anyone that had
happened at my friends restaurant
happened here. When complimentary
bottles of Belvedere vodka are put in front
of you, then management starts pouring
it out, the expectation to drink is pretty
high.
I could've said no, but I felt too bad
for them we were the only ones there.
From that point things became a blur. One
bottle became two, some shots were had
and cocktails were bought and consumed.
Fruit bowls were inhaled, sheeshas were
smoked, my date turned up and I couldnt
believe how well we were being treated.
Caught up in the hedonism and high
quality alcohol, and possibly accentuated by
my week-long abstinence, when I got home,
I hit that pillow and passed the hell out.
Broken Promises
The next morning I knew Id broken a
promise to myself, but Id felt there was
a sense of duty about it my nightclub
blowout had been justified. The owners
had splashed out on me, and I had
delivered them a guy who had had a good
time, encouraging the others in my party
to do the same.
Sure, I was weak, Id 'failed miserably'
in my mission to remain sober for a
month. Tempting as it was to see it as a
depressing allegory for my life do I
not have any strength of character? the
fact remained that no one got hurt and
everyone left the place happy.
So my streak ended, lasting just seven
days. However, as in life my goals were
re-adjusted, and to this point I still
havent had a beer during January. Ive
wanted one, sure, and my mates are still
confused, but Ive held firm.
That nightclub was f*#king funny
though.
The last call

Vietnams beer industry has grown in fits and starts
a home-brew here, a beer club there, a draft beer
somewhere else. Now, Pasteur Street Brewing
Company is bringing Vietnam its first Americanstyle craft brewery, and Alex Violette is the man
shaking the kegs. Photo by Francis Xavier
At Upslope [the Boulder, Colorado
brewery where Alex was head brewer],
we had close relationships with our craft beer
community. It was never just about our business,

but promoting the craft beer industry as a whole.
There were so many clusters of breweries located
in the same town and we all appreciated one
another. Collaboration beers became popular because of this and always started with two brewers
sharing ideas over a pint.
Meeting John [Reid, six-year Saigon

expat and partner in Pasteur Street]
was spur of the moment. He was in Colo-
rado in June looking for a brewer, and came

into Upslope while my girlfriend, Bethany, was
working behind the bar. After hearing about his
idea for Pasteur Street, she wanted to introduce
us in the hope I could help him find someone for
the job. The idea became more intriguing the more
I found out about it. Just two days after meeting
John, Bethany and I decided to move to Saigon
and start a new adventure.
Moving from the centre of the craft

beer universe to Saigon has been
a refreshing experience. We werent sure what
to expect from the market out here but we
have seen a surprisingly high demand for
craft beer. There has been massive support for
Pasteur Street and we have been selling out of
beer every weekend!
In the production phase, well add...

bottling for export. Many of the ingredients
we use are not readily available elsewhere in
the world. Our plan is to deliver these flavours
through our beers.
The creation were most proud of is...

the imperial stout infused with fresh cacao
nibs. It is by far the best chocolate beer I have
ever brewed. When I had previously brewed
beers with chocolate, there was no choice of
which chocolate nibs you could use. I could
only find one supplier and they just sold nibs.
Here we were able to source fresh, local nibs
from Lam Dong Province. You can really taste
the difference.
The local ingredient Im most excited

about is... whatever fruits are in season!
As soon as we enter our production phase

I will begin brewing beers and ageing them
anywhere from six months to a year using a
unique strain of yeast. After ageing, they will
be infused with local fruits.
Bia hoi is... the great beer drinking culture
that Vietnam is well known for. It comes down

to the idea of sitting with friends and throwing
back a few pints.
My favourite mass-produced domestic beer is... best served with ice! Prior to
coming to Vietnam I had never considered

putting ice in my beer. Now, I dont think I can
go back (for adjunct lagers at least).
Pasteur Street will be place-specific

to Vietnam in... the flavour of and inspiration for our beers. Our beers focus on using
local fruits, herbs, spices, coffee, chocolate or
whatever else we can find. Food has always
been a source of inspiration for the flavour of
beer, and we will continue in those footsteps.
In Vietnams future, we see craft

beer becoming... a fun option for beer
lovers who live and travel here. The intention

of craft beer is to welcome those who appreciate the flavours without forcing them upon
anyone.

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NH XUT BN LAO NG

CHUYN DU LCH, M THC

092 / The Art of Ao Dai

010 / Goats Do Roam

Celebrating the Year of the Yang

047 / The Cartoonist

Tet dos and donts

Valentines tips from a charmed life

014 / Vietnam Festival Calendar

This months cover story had us

078 / Making the Metro a

Our 10-step plan for subway readiness

082 / The Future of Downtown

020 / Je Suis Charlie

A memorial is held in Hanoi

EAT & DRINK

But Chi teaches passion

050 / The Idiots Guide to Tet

011 / The Big Five

Events to look out for this month

What it says on the tin

A Vietnamese tradition evolves

The design competition for the heart of

086 / The Businessmen of Beer

Industry professionals and thier take on

094 / Burger Wars

A medium-rare war on the tables of

100 / Mystery Diner Hanoi

Au Lac Do Brazil is still going strong

102 / Street Snacker Hanoi

On the menu: Bun Thang

104 / Mystery Diner HCMC

Vesper hits rare highs

106 / Street Snacker HCMC

On the menu: Street Sushi

These PGs are PG-13

Au Lac Do Brazil II Hanoi

The bell drops in international waters

120 / A Day in Penang

124 / In Search of the Super Cave

Dak Nong has more holes than a block of

036 / To-Do List

4 | Word February 2015 | wordvietnam.com

New Years Day in Georgetown

026 / To-Do List

160 / Coffee Cup

148 / Medical Buff

164 / The Empty Wok

Chapter 5 of Wilfred Burchetts classic

190 / Falling Off the Wagon

A month of sobriety can be harder than it

192 / The Last Call

Alex Violette is crafting Vietnams beer

wordvietnam.com | February 2015 Word | 5

This month we asked Word contributors, When

Word - Duong Huynh

CHUYN DU LCH & M THC

6 | Word February 2015 | wordvietnam.com

Chu trch nhim xut bn:

Thc hin lin kt xut bn:

In n 15.000 cun, kh 20.5 x 27cm

wordvietnam.com | February 2015 Word | 7

tap is the arrival of