LECTURE 1
Basic concepts in Geophysical
Fluids Dynamics
I- Basic Laws and Notions
1) Newtons Laws of Motion
2) Forces, work, energy
3) Flow, Flux and Transport
II- Important Notions in Geophysical
Fluids Dynamics (GFD)
1) Why do we define the cube?
2) Coordinate System
3) Dominant Forces
4) Temperature (and Salinity)
III- Derivation of the Forces in GFD
1) Pressure
a) E-Laboratory
b) Horizontal pressure
c) Vertical pressure
d) Hydrostatic balance
e) Examples
2) Buoyancy
a) E-laboratory
b) Archimedes Principle
c) Stratification and Compressibility
d) BruntVisl frequency
3) Compressible Fluids
a) Irreversibility and Entropy
b) E-Laboratory
c) Adiabatic Process
d) Effect of Compressibility
e) Stratification and Compressibility
= = 0 =
=1
where
is the net force in Newton
(N=kg.m.s-2)
n is the total number of forces
is the velocity (m.s-1)
is the displacement of the
object (m)
t is the time (s)
is a constant vector (m.s-1)
= 0
=1
=
= 2 =
=1
where
is the acceleration of the
object (m.s-2)
m is the mass of the object
(kg)
skater
Where
m is the mass (kg)
g is the gravitational acceleration
(m.s-2)
= gcos
Projected following x:
Projected following z:
2
2
2
2
=
=
=
2
2
=
= 2
=
(2 + 1)
2
=
2
=
2. 2 +1 + 0
2
2
4
2
(2 1) = 2 1 . 2 + 1 + 0
2 =
The work () done by a resultant force or net force on a body that moves with a
()
displacement = () is:
=
.
()
Units:
Force: N=kg.m.s-2
Displacement: m
The kinetic energy ( ) of an object is the energy which it possesses due to its motion.
The principle of work () and kinetic energy ( ) - also known as the work-energy
principle - states that the work done by the resultant force or net force on a body ()
equals the change in the kinetic energy ( ) of the body:
= = .
Net Force:
with m the mass, the velocity, t the time and the acceleration
()
Displacement: = () - this is a small displacement
()
Work:
=
= = .
. . . . = .
= = .
and we have: .
= 2 = 2.
2 2.
1
2
Energy:
1
1
2
= = = 2
2
2
1
2
= 2 2
1
= 2 2 (Joule)
The potential energy ( ) of an object is the energy due to the position of the object.
A conservative force ( ) is a force that depends only of the position of the object.
The principle of work ( ) and potential energy ( ) states that the work done by a
conservative force on a body ( ) equals to minus the change in the potential energy
( ) due to that force:
=
The kinetic energy is applied to the net force of the system while the potential
energy is only applied to the conservative forces of the system!
Energy: =
0
0
Case of the gravity:
= =
where m is the
= (Joule)
mass (kg) and g the gravitational acceleration (m.s-2)
h vertical displacement (m)
= = . = mg =
m mass (kg)
g gravitational acceleration (m.s-2)
The Heat () is the energy in transfer between a system and its surroundings other
than by work or transfer of matter. The transfer can occur in two simple ways,
conduction, and radiation, and in a more complicated way called convective circulation.
Heat is not a property or component or constituent of a body itself.
The heat can be defined as follow:
= (Joule)
Total energy:
The flow is defined as the quantity of fluid (gas, liquid or vapor) that passes a point per
unit time. =
103
Bernoulli Principle:
Daniel Bernoulli worked on the conservation of Energy.
We have seen that a moving body exchanges its kinetic
energy for potential energy when it gains height.
Bernoulli realized that in a similar way, a moving fluid
exchanges its kinetic energy for pressure.
Mathematically this law is
now written:
where
P, P1 and P2 is pressure in Pa
is the density of the fluid
V, V1 and V2 is its velocity
1 2
+ + =
2
A consequence of this law is that if the velocity increases then the pressure falls.
=
. 2
Salt flux is the rate of mass of salt
transfer through a given surface.
=
. 2
The transport is the integral over a
surface of the flux:
= .
= .
1m
1m
1m
Generations of students have been traumatized by THE CUBE but in fact it is just a
mind game consisting in simplifying the entire problem!
For example now I can define the fluid density () in kg.m-3 as the weight of the cube
as m= V and V=1m3!
It also means that generally, when studying geophysical fluids, we dont speak about
mass but much more about the density => m= V with V the volume!
Cartesian Coordinate System is the one which is used most commonly to derive the
equations because it is the most simple. We can describe most processes in Cartesian
coordinates without the mathematical complexity of spherical coordinates. The standard
convention in geophysical is x is to the east, y is to the north, and z is up.
f-Plane is a Cartesian coordinate system in which the Coriolis force is assumed constant. It is
useful for describing flow in regions small compared with the radius of the Earth and larger
than a few tens of kilometers.
-plane is a Cartesian coordinate system in which the Coriolis force is assumed to vary
linearly with latitude. It is useful for describing flow over large areas.
Spherical coordinates are used to describe flows that extend over large distances and in
numerical calculations of basin and global scale flows.
Descriptions of other systems can be found in geography and geodesy books.
Dominant Forces
Gravity
Coriolis
Friction
Atmospheric scientists are using the SI units which is K for the temperature.
However, Physical Oceanographers are NOT using the SI units for the TEMPERATURE
which is expressed in C instead of K!
Be aware!
Units are critical and you MUST pay attention to them before trying to calculate any
quantities.
III- 1. Pressure
III-1. a) E-Laboratory
http://phet.colorado.edu/en/simulation/fluid-pressure-and-flow
=0
.
y ()
=
with m the mass in kilograms
What is ?
= 1 2 is the resulting
pressure force.
What are 1 and 2 ?
()
1 = 1
where
1 is the pressure
2 = 2
where
2 is the pressure
= 1 2
1 2 1
1
=
1
=
And similarly:
1
=
= +
=0
. 3 =
y ()
1
=
1
=
()
=0
. 3 =
y ()
1
=0
=0
=0
()
=0
If z =cst= 0 :
. 3 =
y ()
= 0
=
= + 0
with
= + and p =
()
Hydrostatic balance:
= 1
If z is not a constant:
2
= 4
= 2
= 3
=1
= 5
= +
3
4
= + 0
where
=+
= is the atmospheric pressure
=0
1
1
+
=
+ 0
0
0
III- 1. Pressure
III-1. e) Examples
=0
= + 2 2 + 1 + 1 1 1 +
The horizontal contribution is given by:
1
1
1 + 2
1 + 1 +
=
+ 2
+ 1
1
1 1
2 1
1
with
III- 2. Buoyancy
III-2. a) E-Laboratory
http://phet.colorado.edu/sims/density-and-buoyancy/buoyancy_en.html
is a mean density
=
()
0
= +
But, since the water column was originally in a hydrostatic balance before the change in
density:
+ = 0 + =
So the force balance can be written as:
is a mean density
is a mean density
0
= + 1
1 + 2
2
= 2
and
2 1
with N
2 1
2 ()
=
The flow of heat from a region of high temperature to a region of low temperature
is a spontaneous process it can proceed along by itself without needing any extra
external energy. When this process occurs, the hot region becomes cooler and the
cold region becomes warmer. Heat is distributed more evenly throughout the
system and the system's ability to do work has decreased because the temperature
difference between the hot region and the cold region has decreased.
Referring back to our definition of entropy, we can see that the entropy of this
system has increased.
Which means that we consider that the temperature T is constant (and the salinity S is
constant for the ocean).
How can we link the change of density due to adiabatic change and due to ?
where 0 and
1
2
2
0
Now that the fluid is compressible we have to add the change of density due to
adiabatic change:
2
0 2 = 2 [ 1 + ]
1
1 =
0 = 2 0
2
1
0 2 = 2 [ 1 2 0 ]
=
+
Earth rotation
Latitude
x
= y
z
Equator
0
= .
.
=
. .
= . =
.
Dimension analysis:
Vertical velocities in the ocean: w 104 . 1
Horizontal velocities in the ocean:u, 101 . 1
. . + . .
. .
. .
Neglected in comparison with
the horizontal velocities!
Except for equatorial areas
where . and we cant
neglect the vertical velocities!
. .
= 2. = 2 . . =
. .
2. . .
The Coriolis parameter is defined as: = .
At our latitude we can consider that = =
. ( ) .
=1
Pressure force
+ = 0
1
= 0
1
+ . 2. = 0
Dimension analysis:
- density 103 . 3
- Difference of pressure over difference
of depth 104
How fast should the Earth rotate in order to not neglect the rotation on the z axis?
2. . . 10 . . .
= 2.
= 2
2
= ( )
The non-dimensional Rossby Number is defined by the ratio of the Relative and
Coriolis accelerations such as:
2
=
=
2 2
+
following the x axis
+
following the y axis
2 + 2
following the z axis
= 2 =
2 2
2
= 3 =
with M the mass of the Earth, G the gravitational force
and: =
We can then define:
= +
2 r
= 0.034
m. 1
=
290
290
Conclusion:
The centripetal force can be neglected in comparison with the gravitational acceleration!
III- 5. Friction
III-5. a) E-Laboratory
http://phet.colorado.edu/sims/friction/friction_en.html
Throughout most of the interior of the ocean and atmosphere, friction is relatively
small, and we can safely assume that the flow is frictionless.
At the boundaries, friction, in the form of viscosity, becomes important. This thin,
viscous layer is called a boundary layer.
Within the boundary layer, the velocity slows from values typical of the interior to
zero at a solid boundary.
If the boundary is not solid, then there is a thin layer of rapidly changing velocity
whereby velocity on one side of the boundary changes to match the velocity on the
other side of the boundary.
III- 5. Friction
III-5. c) Molecular Viscosity
Molecules colliding with the wall and with each other transfer momentum
from the fluid to the wall, slowing the fluid velocity.
Molecules further from the boundary collide with the molecules that have struck the boundary, further
transferring the momentum into the interior of the fluid.
Molecules, however, travel only micrometers between collisions, and the process is very inefficient for
transferring momentum even a few centimeters.
Molecular viscosity is important only within a few millimeters of a boundary.
Expression:
= +
If we only treat the term , the molecular viscosity is expressed in function of the kinematic
The form of the stress tensor (nine components of stress at a point in the fluid) can be given by:
, = , =
following the x axis
=
, = , =
following the y axis
=
, =
, =
following the z axis
, =
, =
following the x axis
=
, =
, =
following the y axis
=
, =
, =
following the z axis
Where , (~ 10 m2s1) (~ 10-4 m2s-1).are the turbulent eddy viscosities. They cannot be calculated
accurately for most oceanic flows. They can be estimated from measurements of turbulent flows.
Measurements in the ocean, however, are difficult.
1 + + +
+
+
+
3
1 + y + y + y
=
+
+
+
3
1 + z + +
=
+
+
+
3
=
However the effects of the friction , in the ocean is much more important following the vertical than
following the horizontal and the friction terms can be written as following:
+
+
+
+
+
+ with , and the dissipation due to friction
+
+
+
III- 5. Friction
III-5. f) Surface and Bottom Friction
At the surface of the ocean, the turbulent friction is equal to the wind stress - = , .
The wind stress is the shear stress exerted by the wind on the surface of large bodies of water such as oceans,
seas, estuaries and lakes. It is the force component parallel to the surface, per unit area, as applied by the wind
on the water surface. The wind stress is affected by the wind speed, the shape of the wind waves and the
atmospheric stratification. It is one of the components of the airsea interaction, with others being the
atmospheric pressure on the water surface, as well as the exchange of heat and mass between the water and the
atmosphere.
=
where (kg.m-3) is the density of the air, (m.s-1) is the wind vector at 10m height (in general)
and is the wind-drag coefficient (a dimensionless quantity). is defined by empirical formulations
taking into account the sea state.
III- 5. Friction
III-5. g) Surface and Bottom Friction
At the bottom of the ocean, the turbulent friction is equal to the bottom stress - = , .
The bottom stress is the shear stress due to the effect of the bathymetry of the ocean on the ocean
flows. It is the force component parallel to the bottom, per unit area. The bottom stress is affected by
the ocean current speed, the size and density of the bottom sediments and the ocean stratification.
=
where (kg.m-3) is the density of the ocean, (m.s-1) is the bottom velocity and is the
bottom-drag coefficient (a dimensionless quantity). is defined by empirical formulations taking
into account the size and the density of the sediments but also the shape of the ocean floor.
= ( 2 )
2
= ( )
The non-dimensional Reynolds Number is defined by the ratio of the Relative and
acceleration and the Kinematic Friction such as:
=
=
106