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Fragrance Facet Accords

Hesperidic Facet Accords


Hesperidic Accord

Bergamot 10
Petit-grain, Bergamot 10
Blood Orange 10
Kaffir Lime Leaf 10
Orange, Wild 5
Mandarin, Green 5
Tangerine 2
+/-
Neroli Petit-grain Sur Fleur 10

Rosewood 5
Ylang 2

Frankincense 10

Additional +/-
Benzoin Resin 1
Vetiver 1

To Add a Green
Galbanum 1-5

To Add a Leafy Green


Violet Leaf 1-5

To Add a little Spiciness


Tulsi 1-5

To Add a little Warm Spiciness, consider


Cinnamon, Bark 1
Cinnamon, Leaf 1-2
Sweet Floral Hesperidic Accord

Grapefruit, Ruby Red 10


Grapefruit, Pink 10
Rosewood 10
Ylang 5

**All of the above +/- can apply here, as well

Juicy-Jammy Hesperidic Accord

Yuzu 30
Jasmine 10
Fir, Balsam, Absolute 10

Japanese Yuzu Accord

Yuzu 10
Lemon 5
Orange, Wild 5
Ginger 2

**Fir Balsam Absolute can be added to any of the above accords to add a bit
of a deep juiciness to Hesperidic Accords, as well as to help to anchor
down the ingredients a little with its Base Note properties.

**Any Sandalwood, or JKs Sandalwood Accord can be used in the same


fashionto help fix the volatile materials and extend their life in a fragrance
a little bit, especially if set aside to age together for several months.

**Just a touch of various florals, like Jasmine, Rose, Ylang, Neroli,


Lavender Absolute, etc. can be added to introduce a touch of
voluptuousness to that bright, shiny Hesperidic Accord. Ylang and Jasmine,
in particular, are great to do this with, as well as Neroli or Neroli Petit-
grain Sur Fleur. Just a touch, mind you. Too much, and it will begin to
smell more floralunless thats what youre going for. =)

**Using Bergamot + Petit-grain Bergamot is a great way to add a shiny


olfactory quality that extends well beyond using just Bergamot by itself.
**Litsea cubeba can also be added to add a bit of a fruitier note to the
already fruity citri.

An Interesting Property of Bergamots

There is some belief that Bergamot, when used in very large quantities, also
begins to have a bit of a fixative property. To give an example from the first
Accord:

Bergamot 250

The rest of the Accord, which I might possibly double or triple the amounts:

Petit-grain, Bergamot 10 20 30
Blood Orange 10 20 30
Kaffir Lime Leaf 10 20 30
Orange, Wild 5 10 15
Mandarin, Green 5 10 15
Tangerine 2 4 6

We also see this, in theory, when making a Chypre, where both Oakmoss
and Bergamot, together, form the core of the Fragrance Family. The
Bergamot, in this instance, is believed to serve as a Base Note, and also to
acquire some fixative properties in such large dosages.
Aromatic Accords
Gin Accords

These recipes are taken from a book for those wanting to distill their own
liquors. Of course, there are some ingredients, like Grains of Paradise, that
have no fragrance value, and are there for their taste, only. So look through,
and keep that in mind.

All gins include juniper as an ingredient along with other botanicals.


Typically a fine gin contains 6-10 botanicals, although the Dutch Damask
Gin has 17 and the French Citadelle Gin has 19 but this could be more for
marketing reasons and has been criticized for lacking direction.

Botanical names:
Juniper - juniperus communis
Coriander - coriandrum sativum
Angelica - archangelica officinalis
Cassia - cinnamomum cassia
Cinnamon - cinnamomum zeylanicum
Ciquorice - glycyrrihiza sp.
Bitter Almond - prunus dulcis, amara
Grains of Paradise - afromumum melegueta **Not a Perfume Ingredient
Bubeb Berries - piper cubeba
Bitter Orange - citrus aurantium
Sweet Orange - citrus sinensis
Lemon - citrus limon
Ginger - zingiber officinale
Orris Root - iris florentina
Cardamon - elletaria cardamomum
Nutmeg - myristica fragrans
Savory - satureja hortensis
Calamus - acorus calamus
Chamomile - matricaria chamomilla
**Ill leave these recipes in their original formats. Just take into account the
grams that they are given in, and substitute for drops/mL/or grams, if
weighing out your ingredients. The important thing here for usis the
ratios of the ingredients.

From: 'The Book of Gin & Vodkas', Bob Emmons

BASIC GIN
Juniper 22.5g
Coriander 11.5g
Cassia 2.5g
Angelica root 2.5g
Lemon peel 0.25g
Cardamom 0.25g

BRITISH GIN
Juniper 15g
Coriander 15g
Bitter Almonds 12g
Angelica Root 0.25g
Liquorice Root 1g

CORDIAL GIN #1

Juniper 10g
Coriander 7.5g
Bitter Almonds 1.5g
Orris Root 0.25g
Angelica Root 0.25g
Cardamom 0.06g
Liquorice Root 1g

CORDIAL GIN #2
Juniper 10g
Coriander 7.5g
Orris Root 0.25g
Angelica Root 0.125g
Calamus Root 0.25g
Cardamom 0.05g
FINE GIN
Juniper 10g
Coriander 0.5g
Grains of Paradise 0.5g
Angelica Root 0.5g
Orris Root 0.25g
Calamus Root 0.25g
Orange Peel 0.25g
Liquorice root 10g (optional)

LONDON GIN
Juniper 10g
Coriander 10g
Bitter Almonds 1g
Angelica Root 0.25g
Liquorice Root 1g

BASIC GENEVA
Juniper 10g
Coriander 12g
Cassia 0.6g
Angelica Root 0.5g
Calamus Root 0.6g
Bitter Almonds 1.2g
Cardamom 0.05g

PLAIN GENEVA
Juniper 10g
Coriander 10g
Calamus root 0.25g
Bitter Almonds 0.5g
Orris Root 0.25g
FINE GENEVA (highly recommended)
Juniper 20g
Coriander 8g
Angelica Root 1g
Calamus Root 0.25g
Bitter Almonds 3g
Cardamom 0.125g
Grains of Paradise 1g
Absinthe Accords
All of us have heard of some of the uses of Absinthe, particularly with the
Impressionistic Painters of France. In high doses, Im sure some of the
psychogenic properties could begin taking effect. Take also into account the
older methods of distillation, which have changed quite a bit in the last
hundred-plus years, much the same as the way we are making Hungary
Water differs quite drastically from the product of old that was distilled,
rather than a blending of essences, as we are doing it today.

Take note of just how hypnotic these blends can bewonderful little
Accords for perfumers like you and me!

Notes on the Psychopharmacology of Absinthe

As a Chinese Medical Practitioner, I occasionally get folks asking me about


the effects of Absinthe. What are these effects?

I describe them as a cross between pot, ecstasy, cocaine, strong coffee, and
vodkabut only when consumed in large doses. The stuff sold in stores
today is much sweeter, and less herbal-tasting than the Absinthes sold in
yesteryear

Thujone, one of the active ingredients in Wormwood, is discussed


oftentimes as being a liver toxin. High doses can do some Liver
damagebut that will not be an issue in perfumery doses. I think there may
be more to the effects of Absinthe than thujone, namely the highly-complex
synergistic effect of a psychoactive cocktailthat of several essences
blended together. At leastthis is what we hope for!

Other ingredients in the recipes have their own reputations. Angelica Root is
labeled as a drug in Finland. Anise and Fennel Seed both contain potentially
psychoactive anethole. Caraway Seeds are reputed aphrodisiacs, and form
the basis of the German liqueur, Kummel. Coriander is mentioned as an
aphrodisiac in the Arabian Thousand and One Nights, and is said to conjure
up the devil when used in combination with Fennel in the same text (sounds
like together, they very strongly stir the Emotions! Lets get crazy!).
Other recipes call for Hops, a sedative and hypnotic, and Calamus Root,
which contains psychoactive asarones, used as an inebriant by Native
Americans. And then there is the Hyssop, a nervine.

Add it all up, and it sounds to me like one heck of an effect to have in a
perfume!

Grand Wormwood Artemisia absinthium L.


The wormwood plant (Grande Wormwood that is not to be confused with
Petite Wormwood, or common wormwood or mugwort) is the constituent
that pretty much defines Absinthe. It is bitter in taste and contains an oily
substance called thujone and, of course, it is thujone that is responsible for
the unusual Absinthe effects.

**Make sure to be using True Grand Wormwood, and not Mugwort.

Absinthe Accord #1

Wormwood 75
Hyssop 15
Calamus Root 12
Fennel Seed 4
Mint 1
Cloves 1
Coriander 1
Nutmeg 1
Star Anise 0.25

Absinthe Accord #2

Wormwood 60
Angelica Root 10
Hyssop 10
Anise 10
Fennel 10
Coriander 5
Caraway 2.5
Cardamom 1
Absinthe Accord # 3

Wormwood 25
Peppermint 5-10 *For more Mintiness
Thyme 10
Hyssop 10
Sage, White 10
Lavender 10
Marjoram 10
Cognac 25

AROMA ENHANCING Materials for Absinthe:

Melissa (Melissa officinalis L.)also known as Lemon Balmadds citrus


scent to absinthe and causes some of the drink's typical green coloration.
Practitioners of natural medicine note that Melissa infusions have a calming
effect.

Roman Chamomile (Anthemis nobilis L.), together with Coriander, adds a


background crisp and spicy aroma to Absinthe. Similar to Melissa, Roman
Chamomile is noted for its calming properties and is used in aromatherapy
as a relaxant.

Roman wormwood (Artemisia pontica L.) is sometimes known as small


Absinthe. Unlike Artemisia absinthiumits thujone-rich relative
Artemisia pontica is not bitter. Sometimes called green ginger, this herb is
used primarily for colour and second-step aroma.

Mint (Menta piperita L.) Peppermint! May be added in small quantities for
its aromatic quality.

Veronica (Veronica officinalis L.) is used to add a light spicy note to the
scent and also to deepen the green colour of absinthe.
Enhanced Absinthe Accord #4

Wormwood 30
Hyssop 8.5
Calamus 1.8
Melissa 6
Anise 30
Fennel 25
Anise 10
Coriander 3.2
Mint 4.2
Citrus of Choice 10
Liquorice 4.2

**Keep in mind that I am adjusting these Absinthe Accords based on


various recipes for making the liquor. This last recipe, in particular, is not in
whole numbers. Either adjust properly for your easeor measure out by
weight, which will give a beautiful Accord.
Bay Rum Accords
Bay Rum is an interesting ingredient, and making Bay Rum Accords (or
Bay Rum splash colognes) has a very interesting history. For fans of the
Pirates of the Carribean mythologythese fragrances are actually the
descendants of real Pirates fragrances!

Made popular initially because the fragrance of Rum was found to


compliment the new West Indian Spice Islands materials, which were
planted to give easier access to some of the spices from the East. Sailors in
the Carribean began blending raw materials into Rum, and began using these
Rums both as beverage, and also as splash colognes on the face (replacing
Rum for Vodka as the medium).

There is a commercial company called Royall that makes some great


commercial fragrances for those wanting to see how a Bay Rum Perfume
should smell. Im going to include some information from their company
page about their products before introducing a few recipes for making your
own Bay Rum Accords!
http://www.royalllymebermuda.com/our-origins

Bermuda and Royall History Intertwined


Spaniard Juan de Bermudez discovered the 300-island archipelago of
Bermuda, 600 miles east of the Carolinas, in 1511. Many years later, when
the British began settlement of this island, did they know what they had
found? Most probably yes, because the imagery of treasure has been
associated with the island going back to colonial times.

Bermuda - The Jewel in the Atlantic


Bermuda has been called a Jewel in the Atlantic, its elliptical island chain
has been repeatedly referred to as a string of pearls. So, yes it is a treasure,
but why? Because it is a semi-tropical paradise where there is romance,
adventure, history, culture, civility, excitement, an Anglo-African heritage,
not to mention pristine beaches, pink sand, turquoise seas, iridescent
lagoons, verdant landscapes, candy-colored homes, breath-taking sunrises,
fabulous sunsets, and brilliant, aromatic flora.
No wonder Mark Twain wrote, You go to heaven if you want-Id rather go
to Bermuda. So many more have followed, from Eleanor Roosevelt and
Eugene ONeill to Michael Douglas and David Bowie.
Fifty years ago Mr. Anthony Gaade, founder and first president of The
Royall Family of Fragrances felt the need to capture the essence and spirit of
Bermuda in a fragrance line of aromatic products to share with the island
and the rest of the world.

Anthony J. Gaade
And so it was that Mr. Gaade, a renowned Bermudian yachtsman and
competitor in international races; through vision and tenacity, brought the
very first Royall fragrance to market in 1957.
Royall Lyme fragrance is made from the plumpest freshest, native West
Indian limes. It is nurtured and washed by pure island rains in a recipe that
traces its origins to a very old Caribbean formula obtained from
Harbor Islanders. The secret formula of rare essences has a total of 78
ingredients. The resulting Royall Lyme is cool, zestful and refreshing, as
perfect for the work place as it is for play.
Royall Lyme, an instant success
Royall Lyme, was heartily endorsed by former Bermuda Governor, Sir
Edwin Leather and was presented to the British Royal Family on their last
official visit to Bermuda.
In 1960, when Royall Lyme was introduced at Brooks Brothers New York,
it was an unqualified smash hit. The fragrance is still sold there today. Not
long after, Royall Lyme went international to London, Milan, and beyond.
Following Royall Lyme, Mr. Gaade created other fragrances which capture
the essence of Bermuda. Royall Spyce, Royall Bay Rhum and Royall
Muske. The Royall Mandarin fragrance joined the other successful family
scents in 2001 followed by Royall Vetiver in 2006 and finally Royall Rugby
in 2011.

Royall Fragrances
Even Mr. Gaades original packaging for the Royall Family of fragrance
reveals his desire to keep the Bermuda theme. The handsome packaging is
reminiscent of the Bermuda of old. The bottles are of semi-hand-made glass
from original clay molds with antimonial pewter-colored lead crown caps.
Molded on each bottle is a crown and lime cluster with the words ROYALL
LYME and on the bottom of the bottle ROYALL LYME LIMITED. Each
bottle has the fragrance name and crown in raised glass on the back, with a
distinctive colored labels on the front.
Each fragrance bottle is individually wrapped in fine parchment with a
crown wax seal. These seals are made with the same wax used by the Bank
of England. Quality standards of care and attention to detail are found in
every piece.

Mr. Gaade's vision becomes a reality


Mr. Gaades original vision is today a reality. The essence and spirit of
Bermuda, sparkling jewel and garden paradise, reside in every Royall
product. Mr.Gaade says, In the Royall Family Fragrance, we believe we
have a truly unique range of prestigious gentlemens toiletries and grooming
aids directed to the discerning user and carrying the Bermuda message
overseas.
A pretty cool story, isnt it!?

**Keep in mind, if browsing through their webpage, that what we call a


Splash Cologne was, historically, called a Lotion. Youll see this on
their products pages, so dont be confused.

A review of Royall Lyme from Basenotes.net:


http://www.basenotes.net/ID26121402.html

True to its name, Royall Lyme starts with a strong lime blast. It is refreshing--fruity and
juicy without being candy-like. It evokes all parts of a lime, the aromatic rind, the juice
and the pulp. I would not say it is sweet necessarily, but a balance of sweet, tart and
bitter. The juicy part of the opening fades rather quickly, but the bitter lime rind lingers,
and is joined by subtle spices (clove, cinnamon), bay, and sweet resins (benzoin).
Eventually, RL starts to take on a dry floral powder note which I would guess to be orris.
From time to time, I catch whiffs of lime rind, which adds a pleasant, slightly sour edge.

I have only tried one other Royall fragrance, and with RL, I am starting to see that this
house tends to produce non-fussy, straightforward and classic cologne water. Royall
seems to have a house base, which consists of resins, bay and spices with faintly
present floral notes. It is very pleasant, and is fresh and clean smelling without being
soapy. The bay note does add a "barbershop" sense to the composition, but in RL, the bay
is quite subdued. This is preferable since to my nose, bay can easily hijack a fragrance--
as a single note it is strong and long-lasting, so I appreciate the deft use of it in RL.

RL was originally intended for men, but its overall balance of fruit, floral and muted
bay/resin base makes this very wearable for a woman. As with most cologne waters, the
longevity is rather poor, but most of these types of scents were intended as an after bath
or aftershave freshener. Total development took 3-4 hours, and the deep drydown is
soft bay, benzoin and a bit of sweet powder.

Giving you any ideas yet??

**For those lovers of Old Spicethe old formulations, not the new junk that
is currently in productionOld Spice is in this vein of Bay Rum
formulations. Good stuff!!
Bay Rum Accord #1

Black Current 10
Bay Rum, Jamaican 5-10
Geranium, Egypt 5
Geranium, France 5
Patchouli 5
Vetiver 5

**This Accord could function as a simple stand-alone fragrance

Bay Rum Accord #2

Bergamot 50
Bay Rum, Jamaican 50
Lavender 10
Lemon 10
Clove EO 5
Clove Abs/CO2 5
Allspice EO 5
Allspice Abs/CO2 5
Neroli 10
Neroli Petit-grain sur Fleur 10
Orange Blossom Abs 5
Orange 10
Rosemary 10
Carnation 5
Cedar, Virginia 5
Orris Root 5-10 *Depending on how powdery
Tonka 20
Labdanum 10
Benzoin 10
Angelica 5
Oakmoss 5

**This Accord could function as a stand-alone fragrance


Bay Rum Accord #3

Bay Rum, Jamaican 25


Bergamot 25
Juniper Berry 10
Lavender 10
Orange 5
Rosemary EO 5
Rosemary Abs 5
Allspice 5
Cinnamon Abs 5
Benzoin 5
Vetiver 5

Bay Rum Accord #4

Bay Rum, Jamaican 4


Orange 2
Clove 1
Allspice 1
Benzoin 1

**Look into adding some Tobacco Abs into your Bay Rum
formulationsadds a distinctively masculine note to any BR Accord!

Other Aromatic Accords


Shiso & Ginger Sushi Accord

Perilla/Shiso 10
Lemon 4
Ginger 2
Benzoin 1
Ice Accord

Peppermint 10
Eucalyptus 5
Spearmint 2
Wintergreen 2
+/-
Petit-grain 10

Olbas Oil, Ice Accord

**Theres a neat little product thats not intended for use in perfuming, but I
find use for it every once in awhile.

Its called Olbas Oil, and is a blend of:

Peppermint
Eucalyptus
Cajeput
Wintergreen
Juniper Berry
Clove

You can try to make your own blend, if youd like. Just go and purchase
a bottle, and use that as your reference point for finding your own Ice
Accord that you can use both in your fragrances, as well as functionally on
your body! =)

Herbaceous Top Accord

Rosemary EO 3
Geranium 2
Hyssop 2
Hops CO2 2
Basil 1
Tulsi 1
Lavender EO 1
Davana 1
Sensual Narcotic Accords
Tuberose Accord

Tuberose 1
Tonka 1
Vanilla CO2 1
Patchouli 4
Sandalwood 4
Galbanum 0.25

+/-
Cool Floral Tempering Accord 0.5 **Recipe, below

Tonka and Vanilla to soften and sweeten the intensity of Tuberose.


Patchoulis herbaceousness to balance.
Galbanum to impart a green stem from the fresh flower.
Sandalwood to hold it all together.

Jasmine and Magnolia Accord (from JKs Antebellum Perfume)

Magnolia Lily 3
Lavender Seville Abs 2
Champa CO2 4
Linden Blossom Abs @ 30% 4
Rosemary CO2 2
Jas Auriculatum 3
Jasmine Sambac CO2 3

+/-
Cool Floral Tempering Accord 0.5 **Recipe, below
Fresh Floral Accords
Lily of the Valley Doppelganger Accord

**Same recipe, but quantities are reformatted from the PDF

Frankincense EO 4
Galbanum EO 1
Cabreuva EO 32

White Champa Leaf EO 16 (or Violet Leaf Abs)


Rose Otto/Ruh Gulab 2
Jasmine grandiflorum Abs 8
Magnolia Lily CO2 8
Champa CO2 4
Tagetes EO 4
Davana EO 4
Ylang Abs 4
Ylang Complete EO 4 (or Ylang Extra, or Ylang Abs)

Bergamot EO 16
Powdery Floral Accords
Hazy Accord

Carrot Seed 10
Vanilla CO2 25% Vanillin 1

Hazy Floral Accord

Carrot Seed 10
Cassie 2
Vanilla CO2 25% Vanillin 1

+/- Any Florals:


Rose Abs 1-3
Jasmine Abs 1-3

Powdery Carrot-Orris Accord

Carrot Seed 3
Orris @ 10 or 15% Irone 1

Makes for a fantastic Pre-fixed alcohol blend

+/-
Champa Leaf EO 1

Adds a bit of leafy-powderiness to the Carrot-Orris Powder Accord

Pre-fixing

Try pre-fixing some Orris (Irones @ 15%) and using that as your alcohol.
Youll love the soft, powdery quality it lends to any fragrance!
Cool Floral Accords
Powdery Cool Accord

Carrot Seed 10
Cassie 3
Rose Geranium 2

Cool Floral Tempering Accord

To be added for its moderating effects to a Narcotic Floral Accord

Rose de Mai 1
Damask Rose 1
Rose Geranium 3

Fruity Facet Accords


Pipe Tobacco

Black Current Bud Abs 1


Tobacco Abs 1
Vanilla Abs or CO2 0.5
Tonka Bean Abs 0.5

Peach-Apricot Aldehydic Accord

Kaffir Lime Leaf 4


Petit-grain Bergamot 4
Osmanthus 2
Tonka Bean 1
Litsea cubeba 1

+/-
Grapefruit, Ruby Red 2
Grapefruit, Pink 2
Rosewood 1
Apricot-Osmanthus Accord

Osmanthus 2
Champa, White 8
Jasmine sambac 4
Mandarin, Red 12
Cassia 1

Asian Garden Accord

Osmanthus 8
Mandarin, Red 60
Cinnamon, Bark Abs 1
Anise 2
Pine Abs 8
Lotus, Pink 8
Magnolia Lily CO2 15
Patchouli 15
Sandalwood 15

+/-
Tonka 10
Gourmand Accords
Gourmand Ideas

Black Pepper + Florals = Spicy Florals

Chocolate + Patchouli = Gourmand Aphrodesiac

Chocolate + Rose

Chocolate + Citrus

Chocolate + Florals = Edible Flowers

Chocolate + Coffee + Vanilla = Nosegasm

Chocolate + Peppermint = Peppermint Bark

Vanilla + Annnnnything! Mmm Mmm Good! =)

Ginger + Florals = a Warm, Heated Floral

**Patchouli, Vetiver, Benzoin, and Labdanum I find compliment Gourmand


Accords very nicely.

Cinnamon Vertical Accord


Cinnamon Leaf EO 10
Cinnamon Bark EO 10
Cinnamon Bark Abs 5
Cinnamon Bark CO2 5
+/-
Cassia EO 5

Nutmeg Vertical Accord


Nutmeg EO 1
Nutmeg CO2 1
+/-
Mace (Nutmeg Skin) 1
Allspice Accord

*Smells of several different spices: ginger, nutmeg, cinnamonand


invaluable material!

Allspice EO 1
Allspice CO2 1

+/- EOs and CO2/Abs combined:


Ginger 2
Nutmeg 1
Coriander 1
Cinnamon Bark 1
Green Facet Accords
Green Leafy Citrus Accord

Citrus Ingredients 10
Petit-grain 2
Champa Leaf 1

Leafy-Powdery Carrot-Orris Accord

Carrot Seed 3
Orris @ 10 or 15% Irone 1
Champa Leaf EO 1

Flower Bouquet Accord

Rose 10
Rosewood 10
Jasmine 10
Frangipani 5
Champaca 5
Champa Leaf 10
Violet Leaf 5
Tonka Bean 10
Sandalwood 20
Oakmoss 1
Vanilla 1

+/-
Carrot Seed 5
Orris 1
Galbanum 2
Fresh Spicy Facet Accords
Afghan Tea Accord

Cardamom 3
Sandalwood 10
Tonka Bean 3

+/-
Litsea cubeba 1
Ylang 1
Orange 1
Rosewood 1
Laurel 1
Osmanthus 1

Fresh Spicy Ideas


Ginger/Galangal + Florals

Ginger/Galangal + Citrus

Coriander + Florals

Coriander + Champa Leaf

Thai Thom Yum Accord

Bergamot 25
Lime 5
Galangal 5
Coriander (which is Cilantro Seed) 2
Cilantro 2
Lemongrass 5
Black Pepper 1
Sandalwood 10
Carrot Seed 1
+/-
Agarwood 2
*To give it that Animalic Fish Sauce smell.
Hot Spicy Facet Accords
Spicy Wood Accord

Allspice 2
Black Pepper 1
Cinnamon Abs 1
Cabrueva 10
Sandalwood 10

Spicy Floral Accord

Floral of Choice 10
Black Pepper 0.25
Clove 1
Nutmeg CO2 1
Sandalwood 5
Cabrueva 5

Spicy Woods Accord

Nutmeg 1
Allspice 2
Sandalwood 10

+/-
Vanilla 1
Guaiacwood 1

Spicy Rose Accord

Rose de Mai Abs 10


Damask Rose Abs 8
Rose Otto 2
Black Pepper 1
Clove 1
Spicy Ideas

Black Pepper + Florals

Black Pepper + Clove + Rose &/or Florals

Allspice + Florals

Cassia + Cinnamon Bark

Nutmeg + Mace (the skin of the Nutmeg)


Moss Facet Accords
Sexy Grr Accord

Oakmoss 1
Cedarmoss 1
Patchouli 5

Masculine Wood Accord

Oakmoss Abs 1
Sandalwood 4
Cedar, Virginia 10

Mossy-Citrusy Chypre Base Accord

Oakmoss 10
Bergamot 10
Patchouli 5
Tangerine 5
Lime 3
Fir, Balsam, Abs 2

Green Velvet Accord

Sandalwood 10
Vetiver 1
Oakmoss 1

Tincturing
Tincturing these materials individually in 190 Proof Alcohol produces an
interesting Alchemical reaction. Try using these tinctured materials in place
of a full strength drop, and notice how a fragrance can change with a drop of
the tincture in place of a drop of the full strength material.

Oakmoss Abs @ 10%


Patchouli EO @ 10%
Cedarmoss Abs @ 5-10%
Pinemoss Abs @ 5-10%
Wood Facet Accords
Blonde Woods Accord

Amyris 5
Mahuhu 3
Buddhawood 2

+/-
Cabrueva 2

Incense Cedar Accord

Frankincense 1
Cedar, Virginia 1

Gives a unique, citrusy-woody incense notequite yummy!

Sacred Wood Accord

Sandalwood 20
Agarwood 1

Incense Wood Accord

Frankincense 10
Cedar, Virginia 10
Sandalwood 10
Rosewood 3
Patchouli 2
Tibetan Incense Wood Accord

Fir, Silver 8
Fir, Templin 4
Cinnamon, Bark EO 1
Cinnamon, Leaf 8
Clove 2
Nutmeg CO2/Abs 4
Cardamom CO2/Abs 4
Saffron CO2 8
Frankincense 16
Cedar, Himalayan 20
Cedar, Virginia 12
Ambrette 12

+/-
Choya Nakh 1 *Smoke Note
Agarwood 12 *Sacred Wood Note
Nagarmotha 12 *Rooty Wood Note

Australian Wood Accord

Buddhawood 1
Australian Sandalwood 1
Soft Balsamic Facet Accords
Custard Accord

Cistus 1
Tonka Bean 1
Vanilla 0.25

Creamy Sandalwood #1 Accord

Sandalwood 10
Tonka Bean 2
Labdanum 0.5

Creamy Sandalwood #2 Accord

Sandalwood 10
Tonka Bean 2
Vanilla 0.5

Incredibly Creamy Sandalwood # 3

Sandalwood, Santalum album 10


Sandalwood, Australian 5
Sandalwood, Vanuatu 5
Amyris 5
Myrrh 2
Balsam of Peru 2
Vanilla CO2 2
Vanilla Abs 1
Sea Buckthorn CO2 1
Soft Balsamic Facet Accords
Simple Amber Accord

Fossilized Amber Oil 3


Liquidambar (Styrax) 5
Sandalwood 10
Frankincense 5
Cedar, Himalayan 5
Labdanum 5
Patchouli 5
Vetiver 5
Black Pepper EO 1

Compound Amber Accord


Fossilized A
Agarwood CO2 3
Liquidambar (Styrax) 3
Davana 5
Nagarmotha 8
Sandalwood 10
Frankincense CO2 8
Myrrh 2
Spikenard 3
Cedar, Himalayan 10
Cedar, Atlas 10
Cardamom CO2 5
Ginger CO2 5
Black Pepper CO2 2
Labdanum 10
Patchouli 10
Vetiver 5
Sea Buckthorn CO2 1
Pre-fixation Accord

**Great pre-fixed alcohol for a Floral Perfume.

For every Liter of 190 Proof Alcohol, add 1mL of each.

Benzoin 1
Tonka Bean 1
Labdanum 1
Vanilla 1
Resinous Balsamic Facet Accords
Dry Desert Air Accord

*Juniper Co-distillation from Floracopeia

This is a single extraction that is a Co-distillation of Juniper Leaf with the


Copal Resin, and to me, smells like the dry, desert air of the American
Southwest. An Accord in-and-of itself!

American Incense Accord

Copal 5
Frankincense 2
Opoponax 1

+/-
Palo Santo 1

Oriental Incense Accord

Sandalwood 10
Frankincense Abs 15
Frankincense EO 5
Vetiver 5
Cinnamon Bark 1

Resinous Coniferous Accord

Fir, Grand EO 2
Fir, Templin EO 2
Spruce, Blue Abs 1
Cypress 2
Fir, Balsam, Abs 1
Frankincense EO 1
Resinous Amber Accord
Basic:
Benzoin Resin 1
Liquidambar (Styrax) 1
Labdanum 2
Cistus 1

More Complex:

+/-
Resinous Accord Modifier 1

Resinous Accord Modifier

Vetiver 4
Frankincense 2
Cedarwood, Virginia 2
Patchouli 1
Ambrette 1
Angelica 1
Powdery Balsamic Facet Accords
**Orris will be a solid or semi-solid waxy material.

I suggest thinning it out with JKs Sandalwood Accord, or, if youd like
to cut it with some Carrot Seed EO, that could work nicely, as well.

I recommend sticking with an Orris that is a minimum of 10% Irones. 15%


would be even better.

**Orris products that are lower than 10% are usually blended with a carrier
oil to make them more affordable. These work OK for oil and solid
perfumesbut do not work well in French-style perfumes, as they are
usually blended with non-alki soluble oils like Jojoba or Almond Oil.

Creamy Powder Accord

Sandalwood 10
Orris 2
Tonka 1

Vanilla Powder Accord

Sandalwood 10
Orris 5
Benzoin 2
Vanilla 1

Powdery Blonde Accord

Amyris 10
Mahuhu 10
Cabrueva 5
Sandalwood 5
Orris 1-5
Powdery New Mown Hay Accord
Sandalwood 10
Hay Abs 5
Tonka 3
Carrot Seed 2
Orris 2
Fenugreek CO2 1
Genet/Broom Abs 1

Powdery Ideas

Orris/Carrot + Florals = Powdery Florals

Orris/Carrot + Citrus = Powdery Citrus


Animalic Facet Accords

Cumin

I suggest tincturing some Cumin Abs down to 2%. At this small of a


dilution, youll be able to get a clearer sense of its sweat note.

If wanting to stay Alcohol-Free, I suggest diluting Cumin Abs into JKs


Sandalwood Accord down to a 2% dilution.

Musky Accord

Labdanum 10
Ambrette 0.5
Angelica 0.5
Cumin @ 2% 1

Musky Chypre Accord

Bergamot 48
Patchouli 32
Oakmoss 24
Lime 16
Sandalwood 16
Labdanum 12
Ambrette 4
Angelica 1

Kewdra Musk

Sandalwood 25
Kewdra 10 *An Indian Floral
Agarwood, Assam 3
Ambrette 0.5
Davana Musk

Sandalwood 25
Davana 10 *An Animalic Indian Floral
Agarwood, Assam 3
Ambrette 0.5

Rose Musk

Sandalwood 25
Rose, Damask 20
Rose de Mai 10
Beeswax Abs 10
Jasmine sambac Abs 5
Jasmine grand Abs 5
Ylang Abs 3
Agarwood 5
Ambrette Seed 2